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diff --git a/34093.txt b/34093.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..233bf5e --- /dev/null +++ b/34093.txt @@ -0,0 +1,3814 @@ +Project Gutenberg's Mink Trapping, by A. R. (Arthur Robert) Harding + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Mink Trapping + A Book of Instruction Giving Many Methods of Trapping--A + Valuable Book for Trappers. + +Author: A. R. (Arthur Robert) Harding + +Release Date: October 18, 2010 [EBook #34093] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MINK TRAPPING *** + + + + +Produced by Linda M. Everhart, Blairstown, Missouri + + + + +MINK TRAPPING. + + [Illustration: A LARGE MINK.] + +MINK TRAPPING + +A BOOK OF INSTRUCTION GIVING MANY +METHODS OF TRAPPING--A VALUABLE +BOOK FOR TRAPPERS. + +EDITED BY +A. R. HARDING. + +PUBLISHED BY +A. R. HARDING PUBLISHING CO. +COLUMBUS, OHIO. + +COPYRIGHT 1906 +BY A. R. HARDING. + + + +CONTENTS. + + I. General Information + II. Mink and Their Habits + III. Size and Care of Skins + IV. Good and Lasting Baits + V. Bait and Scent + VI. Places to Set + VII. Indian Methods + VIII. Mink Trapping on the Prairie + IX. Southern Methods + X. Northern Methods + XI. Unusual Ways + XII. Illinois Trapper's Method + XIII. Experienced Trapper's Ways + XIV. Many Good Methods + XV. Salt Set + XVI. Log and Other Sets + XVII. Points for the Young Trapper + XVIII. Proper Size Traps + XIX. Deadfalls + XX. Steel Traps + + + +LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. + + A Large Mink + A Mink Trapper + Looking for Food + Good Signs + Nicely Handled Wisconsin Skins + Some Prime N. E. Skins + Large Iowa Mink + Caught in Midwinter + Northwestern Skins + Trapper's "Shack" + A Good Mink Stream + Where Signs are Plenty + Indian Trapper + Camping Out + Moses Bone + A Young Trapper + Large Southern Mink + Caught in Minnesota + A Few Good Ones + Broke the Fastening + Trapping Down Stream + Eastern Trapper and Traps + Barricade Set + Northwest Trapper and Mink + Northern Mink Trapper's Shanty + A Few Days' Catch + Three Log Set + Some New York State Skins + Pole Deadfall + Stone Deadfalls + Board or Log Trap + A Good Fastening + Mink and Other Steel Traps + + [Illustration: A. R. HARDING.] + + + +INTRODUCTORY. + +While there are some excellent mink trappers, no one man has studied +out all the methods, for the conditions under which the trapper in +the South makes his largest catches would probably be of little value +to the trapper of the Far North, where snow covers the ground the +greater part of the year. + +Conditions along the Atlantic are different than the Pacific, and as +well the methods used by thousands of trappers along the Mississippi +and its tributaries differ from the Eastern or Western Coast trapper, +for the mink's food is not the same along the fresh inland waters as +the coast or salt water. + +The methods published are from all parts of the country, and many +experienced trappers tell of their best methods, so that it makes no +difference in what part of America you live, something will be found +of how to trap in your section. Most of the articles are taken from +those published in the H-T-T with slight correction. + +A. R. HARDING. + + + +MINK TRAPPING + + + +CHAPTER I. + +GENERAL INFORMATION. + +Mink are found in nearly all parts of America living along creeks, +rivers, lakes and ponds. While strictly speaking they are not a water +animal, yet their traveling for food and otherwise is mainly near the +water, so that the trapper finds this the best place to set his +traps. + +The mink is fond of fish, rabbit, squirrel, birds, mice, etc. In some +sections they eat muskrat, but we believe they prefer other animals, +only eating muskrat when very hungry and other game is scarce. + +At certain seasons scent seems to attract them while at other times +the flesh of the rabbit, bird or fish will attract them. The trapper +who makes mink trapping a business should have various kinds of traps +and sets for them, such as steel traps, both bait and blind sets, as +well as deadfalls. + +Mink, while small, are quite strong for their size and very active. +While a No. 0 Newhouse will hold them, the No. 1 is usually +considered the proper trap. + +As already mentioned, mink travel a great deal near water, so that +the place to catch them is close to the water or in the water. If you +notice mink tracks near the water, in some narrow place where the +bank comes nearly to the water or a rock or log projects nearly to +the water, carefully dig a hole the size of your trap and an inch or +more deep, covering with a large leaf or a piece of paper first. Then +place a thin layer of earth removed over leaf or paper, making the +set look as natural as before. The dirt from the hole for trap as +taken out should be thrown in the water or to one side. One of the +great secrets in mink trapping, especially blind sets, is to leave +things as near as possible as they were before the set was made. + +There are various shades of mink--some quite dark, others brown, +pale, and some cotton. The greater number, however, are brown. In the +Northeast, Maine, etc., mink are not large, but the color is rather +dark. In the same latitude some ten or twelve hundred miles west in +Minnesota and Manitoba, Canada mink are larger but not so dark. Still +further west on the coast of Washington mink are again smaller, being +somewhat similar in size to the Maine mink but much lighter in color. +Throughout the central section such as Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, Iowa, +etc., they are larger than the Maine mink but smaller than Minnesota. +In color not near so dark as the Eastern or Maine mink. + +The cotton mink is found principally in the prairie and level +sections. In general appearance it is much the same as a pale or +light brown mink, but on blowing into the fur the under portion is +white, hence cotton. Such skins are worth much less than the brown +and dark ones. In fact, for years cotton mink sold for 10 to 50 +cents. + +During the past years the value of mink skins has varied a great +deal. The number exported annually varies from a couple of hundred +thousand to a half million skins or more. This gives but a faint idea +of the annual catch, for large numbers are used each year by American +manufacturers. + +There has been a great deal said about mink climbing trees, many +being under the impression that they could not or did not unless +leaning trees. This is a mistake however, as trappers have tracked +them in these now up straight and good sized trees. They will also +occasionally tree when close pressed by dogs. + +Mink can be tamed if caught when young but are rather treacherous, +and should never be handled bare handed. A few attempts have been +made to raise them for their fur, but so far no great success has +been achieved. The raising of mink will no doubt be undertaken from +this on by many, especially if prices remain as of late, for when +skins sell for several dollars each the business looks promising. No +man should engage in the business unless he knows something of their +habits, etc. + + [Illustration: A MINK TRAPPER.] + +In the states bordering on Canada mink become prime usually by +November 1, while south along the Gulf of Mexico they do not "prime +up" until about December 1 and begin to shed by February, so that the +extreme Southern trapper has only about two months when the skins are +at their best. In the central sections such as Pennsylvania, Ohio, +Indiana, Illinois, Missouri, etc., the skins are prime by November 15 +but begin to get pale in February if the winter is open. + +While some fur bearing animals den up during severe weather mink do +not, and the trapper, even in the Far North, will find mink on the go +every night. + +As mentioned elsewhere, the greater per cent. of the methods +published in this book are taken from the Hunter-Trader-Trapper, an +illustrated monthly magazine, of Columbus, Ohio, devoted to hunting, +trapping and raw furs. New trapping methods are constantly being +published in that magazine, as experienced trappers from all parts of +North America read and write for it. + + + +CHAPTER II. + +MINK AND THEIR HABITS. + +The favorite haunts are along marshy shores of lakes, rivers, creeks +and other swampy places, and where muskrats are plenty there you are +almost sure to find mink. When hunting for mink the best place to +find them is in old muskrat holes near the point or end of an island, +and the next best place is under bridges where the approaches have +been filled in with stones or logs; there are other places not so +good, such as stone piles, heaps of fence rails, hollow logs, under +large stumps, and have even found them under snow banks where I knew +there were no holes at all. + +The principal food of the mink is fish, birds and their eggs, frogs, +mice and small snails, and have had them partly eat muskrat while in +my traps. I do not know whether he can kill a muskrat or not, never +having seen him do it. No doubt there are many other things upon +which he feeds of which I do not know, but these are the principal +ones. + +The mink is an animal of peculiar habits, sometimes remaining near +his burrow for weeks at a time, and then suddenly disappearing and +not returning for as much as seven or eight days, and all this time +he is roving around in search of food, running all night and lodging +in the best hole he can find when daybreak comes, and can often be +seen in early morning or in evening at dusk. + + [Illustration: LOOKING FOR FOOD.] + +The mink is not so hard to trap if you know his habits; when you find +he has left his burrow do not take up your trap, for he will surely +be back in a few days; when you come to a place where a mink has laid +up for the day (that is, in a temporary burrow), do not trap on the +route he has already traveled, for when he comes out he will go +straight on just as if he had just looked in and come out, but set +traps and bait; when he comes out he will be hungry and is sure to be +your mink. + + [Illustration: GOOD SIGNS.] + +In going from place to place mink often travel over the same route, +as between two swamps or ponds, and at times there is a well defined +runway through the grass; this habit can be studied in winter when +snow is deep, and also when swimming from the mainland to an island +or from one island to another; they will nearly always land in the +same place. Another thing, when finding a burrow look around, and if +you find his dung heap you may be sure he lives in that hole; minks' +dung can be told by mice hair and other remains, and if he is feeding +on fish altogether looks the color of silver or the scales of fish. + +I have had a world of experience trapping but very limited at +catching, says an Arkansas trapper, yet plenty of both to be fully +capable of solving the question as to whether or not mink are afraid +of the scent of iron. It is simply this. Some mink are positively +afraid of it and some are positively not so. The experience with one +mink that walks into the properly concealed trap and the other old +fellow who makes the short but invariable curve around the same +properly concealed trap is positive proof of this, and few if any +experienced trappers have not had this experience. Either use a scent +the mink likes or boil your traps in ashes. Clean, wipe and keep dry, +and you have a better chance on land at both kinds of mink. + +My favorite water set for mink is as follows: Roll a good sized log +(the longer and larger the better) to within six inches of the +water's edge of a stream, pond, or lake, leaving a strip of land +about six inches deep, allowing water to come in and touch log. Throw +mud you remove far away. Don't step on or leave finger or paddle +prints on your strip of land, which is certain to become a mink path. + +As soon as tracks indicate this, from land side step on top of log +and place trap in the place you have made and parallel with log, +allowing water to cover well. Staple to log low down and under water +between trap and log, or if you desire to use sliding pole, place +upper end of same under log at this same prepared place and under +water. This log is better than the same set at root of tree, rock, or +stump, for the reason of its convenience to stand or kneel on and +avoid leaving sign while making set, and because when mink reaches +middle of his narrow path he does not like to back out, take deep +water, or climb over the log. + +Should he have any suspicions, should he jump clear of your little +water neck, make wider and place two traps or use the same width trap +in soft mud at either edge, and when he jumps he will land deep in +your trap. I caught the largest mink I ever saw with the trap in mud +at edge this way and he pulled the staple and took the trap, but I +found him the same day and the trap, a Newhouse No. 1, had him by the +hind leg above the hock. The old fellow had been jumping my little +neck of water, so I fixed the trap to his convenience and he lit in +it hard. + + + +CHAPTER III. + +SIZE AND CARE OF SKINS. + +Mink hides handled right bring from a fourth to a half more in market +than the same hides handled indifferently, says an old Iowa trapper +and buyer. Now I will state it more plainly. Take a medium sized +mink, a male one if handled right will be, when stretched properly, +from 20 to 22 inches long, and from 3 1/2 to 4 inches wide at the +tail, tapering gradually to the nose. + +Take the same hide, stretch it over a shingle tapered to a point +being 6 or 8 inches wide at base and a foot long, you will get just +half as much for it as the first one. + +I have bought small mink hides about 8 inches long and 6 inches wide +at the base--just as you would stretch a muskrat. Take the same hide, +stretch it 15 or 18 inches long, and you have added 25 per cent. to +the value of the hide. I shipped two large mink hide a short while +ago. They were near of a size and color as could be. One was about 12 +inches long, the other about 22 inches and well handled otherwise. +One brought 100 per cent. more than the other. + + [Illustration: NICELY HANDLED WISCONSIN SKINS.] + +I take common laths heavy as I can get, saw them in two in the +center, plane them smooth, taper the ends of the two round the edges, +make a tapering center piece, stretch the hide over the two outside +pieces. Draw the hide down as far as you possibly can. See that the +nose does not slip off the end of the boards. Now tack the hide on +each side of the tail, putting in 4 tacks, allowing room for your +center piece. + +Now you are ready for your center piece. Insert it at the bottom, +press it through gradually, but be careful not to tear the hide from +the tacks that you have already driven in. The center piece will not +always go through the full length. The size of the mink regulates +that part of it. One must have different sizes of boards or laths. +Now turn your hide over, pull down the legs of the mink as tight as +you can and tack, using several tacks. I use large tacks No. 12 +three-quarters of an inch long, being sharp as needles. + +Most trappers use the one piece stretching board, as they claim the +three piece too much trouble. If the one piece is carefully made, +planed on both sides, and about three-eighths inch thick, it is a +good board. A one fourth board after being planed on both sides is +very good. + +In this country there are two varieties, which some naturalists have +supposed were distinct species; one small, dark-colored, common in +the Northern and Eastern States and Canada; the other larger, with +lighter-colored, coarser and less valuable fur, common in the Western +and Southern States. The dark-colored variety measures from eleven to +eighteen inches in length from the nose to the root of the tail, and +has a tail from six to ten inches in length. + + [Illustration: SOME PRIME N. E. SKINS.] + +The lighter-colored is large and is found in the states of Iowa, +Minnesota, Dakota, Manitoba and adjoining Canadian provinces. It has +been known to reach a weight of five pounds. + +Trappers claim they have often secured pelts, without +over-stretching, that were 25 inches long, 4 3/8 inches at root of +tail and 3 1/8 inches at neck. This measurement being from root of +tail to end of nose. From tip of tail to end of nose 35 inches. A few +instances of even larger skins are fairly accurately established. + +In the Northeast the skins are much smaller for instead of an +occasional five pound mink one that weighs three is considered large. +Owing to the fine fur and darker color it is worth as much if not +more than skins larger, but caught in a more open section, such as +the Dakotas, Iowa, etc. In the states of Ohio, Indiana, Illinois, +Missouri, etc., mink are not so large as Northwestern but larger than +Eastern, yet are not worth as much money owing to their color not +being so good. + +In the states bordering on the Ohio River as well as Missouri, +Kansas, Nebraska, etc., there are some cotton mink. In size they may +be as large as any in the section, but the under fur is light, in +fact often white. This greatly lessens their value, so that a +"cotton" mink is often classed as a No. 3 or No. 4. + +When it is taken into consideration the various shades of mink, dark, +brown, pale and cotton, and sizes from the different sections, to +which are added Nos. 2, 3 and 4, it can be seen that to know all +about the value of mink one must be in touch with all parts of the +country. + + [Illustration: LARGE IOWA MINK.] + +Many have asked for a standard size by which to grade mink--large, +medium and small. The standard to be based on prime skins of course. + +At first such a plan looks reasonable, but after looking at the +suggestion from all sides it does not appear so. + +In the first place prime, large mink vary in weight from 3 to 5 +pounds, depending in what section caught. The five pound skin, +usually from an open country, is pale and not so finely furred as a 3 +pound one from the Northern New England States or Eastern Canada. + +Again, were mink graded by a standard size, they would be +over-stretched. + +A dealer who we believe tries to treat all fairly submits the +following measurements for the three sizes--large, medium and small: + +Large, 22 inches long, 4 wide at tail, 3 1/2 at neck. + +Medium, 18 inches long, 3 1/4 wide at tail, 2 5/8 at neck. + +Small, 14 inches long, 2 3/4 wide at tail, 2 1/4 at neck. + +The figures are from root of tail (tail not measured) to end of nose. + +The measurements as given are intended to be general, including skins +from Southern, Central, Western and Northwestern sections, with the +exceptions already noted, but at the same time it must be kept in +mind that all skins the same size are not worth the same. + +It is a good idea to stretch the pelts as soon after removed from the +animal as possible. If allowed to lay around for hours the pelt will +be hard to stretch to its normal size. + +If you find a mink drowned and thoroughly water soaked, take it by +the head, just like you were cracking a whip, then by the hind legs +and crack it the same way. The mink will soon be dry. If muddy it +should be washed first. + +Pelts should not be put on the boards when the fur is wet. They +should also be removed as soon as thoroughly dry, that is, after the +skin will not shrink. They should be left on boards from three days +to a week, depending on the weather. Do not turn after removing from +boards, but have flesh side out. + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +GOOD AND LASTING BAITS. + +Animals are not afraid of smoked baits, and in the early and late +parts of the trapping season it is a positive benefit to slightly +smoke the bait; it lasts so much longer than fresh meat and hangs on +to the bait stick until almost the last shred, and if an animal turns +from the trap house without biting it, it is because he is not +hungry. + +The baits I have found the most enduring and most likely to tempt an +animal are--first and always the muskrat. All animals, that is bear, +mink, fox and marten will bite at this bait when they will not +consider any other. For a bear trap, use one whole rat, take out the +inside (because the inside will cause it to decay quicker), have the +rat slightly smoked, just enough to stiffen the meat, then have a +sharp pointed stick, about three feet long, run the stick through the +two thighs, up along the back bone, through the neck stopping at the +skull. Plant this in the back of your bear trap house and you have +one of the best inducements for a bear to catch. + +For mink or marten traps a smoked rat makes five good sized baits, +neck and head one; each quarter one. Do not throw away the tail. It +stands in the same relationship as a tidbit to an animal as a +beaver's tail does to a trapper. Therefore at the trap where you want +an extra inducement, twist the tail about the rest of the bait and +tie it to keep in place. + +During the very cold months partridge and rabbit meat keeps good a +long while in the hard frozen state, but as an all round lasting bait +for mild or cold weather, good for either mink or marten, I have used +with great success both the windpipe and tail of the ox. The tail +has, of course, to be skinned while fresh, and I cut off a ring or +two of either the windpipe or tail and run a sharp stick through each +piece, and carry them in my bait bag with the sticks in. When I want +one for a trap I pull out the stick and the hole is there ready to +place on the proper bait stick. A tail will make ten generous baits, +likewise the windpipe. + +All fish bait is good for mink, but the majority decompose so quickly +that unless hard smoked it drops off the bait stick in a few hours +and is eaten by the mice on the ground, or very soon disappears by +the action of the earth and evaporation. As a lasting fish bait +(unsmoked) I have found the sucker or carp the very best; they are a +fleshy fish with no inside to speak of, and a very tough skin. One of +about twelve or fourteen inches long will give sufficient bait for +ten traps. + + [Illustration: CAUGHT IN MIDWINTER.] + +In setting mink traps along the shore of lake or river I take the +fish whole in the canoe, and as I set a trap cut off a section with +my belt axe, beginning with the tail. Each bait will be an inch or an +inch and a quarter broad lengthways of the fish. You make your bait +stick very sharp and run it through crossways of the section, +piercing the skin on both sides. Long after the flesh part of the +fish has rotted and fallen away, the skin ring will be yet in +evidence shriveled up dry on the stick, but yet useful as bait. + +In using partridge or rabbits for bait, it is very much towards their +lasting powers to not remove the skin or feathers. Cut the section +you want with a very sharp axe, run your bait stick through the +portion of meat and plaster down close on top all the feathers, hair +or skin and tie securely if in mild weather. If in cold weather, all +that is necessary is to place each bait stick, primed, out of doors +over night, and the next day you can carry them in your bait bag like +so many knots. + +In conclusion will say that a few drops of oil of anise is the best +alluring scent I have found for mink. A final word of advice. Unless +your traps in water-set always have a tossing pole, otherwise when +you visit your line you may have the chagrin to find only the paw +instead of the animal. As the minister says, one more word. If it is +your intention to return on your tracks when visiting your trap road, +be sure and clean out, bait and reset each trap as you go. In mild +weather or towards spring, animals run as well in daytime as at +night, and I have often, by observing this rule, found on my return +at different times almost all kinds of animals caught while I was at +the other end of the road. + + + +CHAPTER V. + +BAIT AND SCENT. + +The mink is very hard to catch, as all or most all experienced +trappers tell us, so therefore we must believe them, says an +experienced Canadian trapper. Some say that mink are afraid of human +scent. In one sense they are but in another they are not, as I will +prove to you in the following paragraph: + +While I was trapping on Twenty Mile Creek in Ontario I had an +occasion to go my rounds very early one morning. I had not gone far +before I ran onto a large mink track, and as the snow was only here +and there in small patches I did not follow it. I returned the same +way to get a skunk I had hidden, and on reaching this particular spot +I saw as before, my tracks going one way and Mr. Mink's another. I +never thought any more about it until I came to the next patch of +snow, and there were his newly made tracks beside my own, and some +were discerned in the same prints as I had made, so that must prove +that he wasn't afraid of human scent there. If that mink had been +afraid of human scent he most certainly would have avoided my tracks, +but as it was he saw me coming and hid somewhere until I was past. + + [Illustration: NORTHWESTERN SKINS.] + +I do not say that a person can drop a trap down anywhere, set any old +way, and catch mink; but I do say that it all depends where the human +scent is. If a man sets a trap and handles it with his hands or any +other foolish thing, he will catch but very few mink. + +My way of setting a trap for a mink is this: Find a den or hollow log +in the vicinity where mink tracks are seen. After you have found the +place where you intend setting your trap, set it in the following +way: Cut a hole in the ground at the entrance shaped like a straight +stemmed pipe, only make it large enough for the trap to set in +nicely. After that, set the trap, twisting the spring around to the +same side of the trap as already excavated, and taking the dirt you +have the pan, placing the trap in the place you have taken out, cover +the trap with it, being careful not to let any lump or pebble lay at +the base of the jaws, as it prevents them from closing tightly, and +your mink may get away. + +For bait, take the tail, front and hind legs of a muskrat, also a +small piece of flesh, or better yet the entrails, and place them in +the hole, being careful not to set it too close, but close enough so +that the mink will have to step on the pan of the trap. It is better +to have it too far back than too close, as you then run a better +chance of getting your mink. Also have some musk or some reliable +scent, and put a few drops on a stick a short distance from the trap. +After all of this be very careful in brushing out all signs, and make +everything look as natural as possible, depart, and I know from +experience that you can catch a mink, providing you follow the +directions above. + +In order to trap very shy animals use no bait of any kind, but set +your traps where they are sure to go and you can capture the shyest +mink, says a Maine trapper. The places where mink are sure to go are +into holes, dens, hollow stumps and logs, and to make a success you +want a trap set at all the places. If there isn't any, make some any +time in the summer for the coming season. + +The right size and best kind of trap for mink is the Blake & Lamb No. +1. Have them free from rust and foreign odors, as mink have keen +smelling organs; boil them in ashes and water, also boil them again +in a kettle filled with fir or cedar twigs, and after they are dried +and when hot rub them all over with beeswax, and when set cover +carefully and fasten to something movable. + +In the fall of the year use no scent, but in the spring when they are +running around use their own musk, mixed with fish oil and salt to +preserve it. This is my way to trap mink without bait, and I have +captured large numbers of them. + +I claim that animals are their own best scent. If experience is worth +anything I am sure of it. About the first trapping I ever did (1877) +I ran out of mink bait and came across a rivulet running into the +main creek and mink track in plenty. Well, what was I to do? I must +set a trap. I took a piece of the hind quarter of a mink. Being a +green hand at the business I did not know whether it would work or +not. But the next time I visited my trap I found out the plan was a +success, for I had Mr. Mink safe and sound. Ever since I have had +occasion to use the same for bait. + +Another illustration I will give which proves beyond question that +this theory is a correct one: In 1878 I set a trap in a hole in the +bank, the water not freezing all winter, but ran a stream over the +trap, out of the hole. I used no bait. But I believe I caught every +mink coming that way. Every mink caught of course would freshen up +the place with his musk. The result was 15 mink. I believe other +animals are the same; but skunk and civet are not so particular what +they eat; anything half decomposed or rotten will answer. + +The civet is very troublesome when they find your mink trap. In +setting in water (he will not go in water if he can help it) he will +make a hole at one side and get your bait in spite of you. At other +times he will crawl over all your stagings and reach in, like a +monkey, apparently as limber as Indian rubber, and get your bait. In +dry land sets they walk right into your trap and you can get rid of +them. + + [Illustration: TRAPPERS "SHACK".] + +A few words about scent. I never did believe in mixing a lot of stuff +together as some say, says a Canadian trapper. Now if a mink is +attracted by the odor of fish oil or the scent of muskrat musk or of +blood or the scent of the female mink, that does not say that we +should mix them all together and expect it to catch every mink that +comes along. Would you expect the mink to distinguish the smell of +each of these substances when they are all mixed together? If we like +chicken, sweet potatoes, chocolate cake and mince pie, would it make +it better to mix all these things together? I don't think we would +like it. + +As for the fox, the very best scent or decoy is the matrix of the +female fox, as has been described so often, but it is hard to get. +Next to this I think comes skunk essence and it should be sprinkled +around quite freely, as the fox is not afraid of it, like some +trappers are, and it also helps to kill the smell of the iron of the +trap. Now don't think by this that you should rub it on the trap. +Just sprinkle it around the trap. + +But none of these scents will attract an animal as far as some seem +to think, and I find that one of the most important things is to find +where animals use and set your traps near these places. Of course you +must study the nature and habits of your game or you will not know +how to set the trap after you find the place. Then set your traps +carefully, work hard, keep your eyes open, use reason and good sense, +take care of your furs and you will be successful. + +For mink I use a No. 1 or No. 1 1/2 trap. The latter is preferable. +For scent that obtained from the scent bags of the mink or weasel, +mixed with anise oil, is the best decoy I ever used, says a Minnesota +trapper. This scent is found near the root of the tail in two round +bags about the size of a pea, and is a yellow liquid smelling very +strong. + +After setting the trap I scatter feathers around and over it. The +mink, seeing the feathers and scenting what he supposes to be a +weasel, will dig up the whole works looking for something a weasel +has overlooked, and he is mighty lucky if he don't get in the trap. +Canned sardines make good mink bait, and the sardine oil is good to +mix with the scent in the scent bottle. Skunk scent and feathers +attract and allay suspicions of all bird eating animals. + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +PLACES TO SET. + +There is one place on my line of traps where I have caught six mink, +says an Iowa trapper. I have no doubt but what this particular place +is on their regular crossing place in going from one stream to +another. I have a few good places but they do not equal this one. At +these particular places I do not remove my traps during the entire +trapping season. I find a man gets fooled quite easy at times by +putting in traps at places that look extra good, when, in fact, it +proves to be no good at all for mink. I often read of trappers who +say to set traps at hollow trees, in hollow logs, and every place +where a mink is liable to go. Well, a mink is liable to go any place. +Also just as liable not to go, too. Now if you should place a trap in +all these places you would have traps strung all over creation. + +In my locality after a mink leaves a ditch or stream you cannot tell +what direction he will go. Perhaps he will start across some farmer's +field down between two rows of corn. Now I expect some of these +nights Mr. Mink is going to take a run down through Farmer Jones' +cornfield. He is liable to. Shall I place a trap between every row of +corn? In my locality with snow on the ground they travel through +fields more than any other place. I will tell you boys, I have three +pet sets that I use, and which I stay just as close to the streams +with as I possibly can, for the condition of the weather is such at +most times that it would not pay to change the location of traps. + +Some trappers will tell you that if a mink will throw his scent where +he is caught you will get another one soon at the same place. Well I +do not believe it, except from the female at mating time. I think +when an animal throws a scent it is a danger signal. + +Many trappers have told me that a warm night was the night to catch +mink, because that was the time they ran most. That don't go with me +either. It is just because mink can smell bait better on a warm +night, as the old trappers around here hardly ever set without bait, +and think it is a wonder that I can catch mink without bait. In fact, +mink run well on cold and disagreeable nights, just as well as on +warm nights. I make it a point to have my traps in the very best +condition previous to a change in the weather, no matter what the +change may bring, there will be lots of mink on the move during the +change. + +Now boys I am not going to advise you to make any particular set, but +if you have two or three good ways, stay with them. They will bring +good results. A man can spend lots of time trying to do something +with some fake set and perhaps neglect some better sets during this +time. A few good sets, well handled, will surely bring good results. + +If I am to judge results from the conditions in my locality, I will +say that fifty traps are too many. Twenty-five gives a man plenty of +work here. During snowy weather you can set your traps with northeast +east, or southeast protection and it is all right, until the wind +gets to the northwest, then look out, for you will have some digging +to yet your traps in good condition. By that time the wind is in the +south. Then it begins to thaw, then the water soaks through on your +traps, then by the time you get around again they are frozen up +solid. Then how a fellow wishes for more weather with a "sameness" +about it. + +An Eastern trapper says: My favorite set for mink is the water set. I +find a place where the water don't freeze up, and if there are any +stones around I lay a stone on each side of the stream, and then I +get a flat stone and lay it over the two stones. I place these +alongside the stream, making a hole like when the water comes out. +Then for a bait I use fish, brook trout if I can get them, or most +any kind of fresh water fish. I put a piece of fish back in this hole +so it lies in the water and set traps in entrance, and you are sure +to get most every mink that comes along. + + [Illustration: A GOOD MINK STREAM.] + +This set is for November, December, January and February until about +the last part, when running time begins. Then I like the runways +best, and you will find them under driftwood and along banks where +the water has washed the bank so the trees standing on the edge have +leaned over and made a hollow under the bank. I have taken a good +many mink this way and also with the water set. I took twelve mink +last year that I kept, and had six get away by gnawing off their feet +under the jaws of the trap. + +The following is from an Indiana trapper: Here is one of the many +mink sets I have been successful with: Go along a creek, find a log, +one that is somewhat crooked will be better, as some part of it will +sink below the surface of the water, roll same into the creek and tow +along to a place where the water is two to three feet deep, take a +strong wire 6 or 7 feet long and fasten to the under side and to one +end of the log, fasten the other end of the wire to a stout stake and +drive down solid near the middle of the creek. + +Now find a place where the water stands above the top of the log, and +chop out a place for the trap deep enough so the trap will be 1 or 2 +inches under water. Now take some mud and smear over the fresh cut +place so it will have an old appearance. Now set your trap and cover +with a few water soaked leaves and a few pinches of mud. This set +should be made where the water does not run too swift. Muskrat will +bother this set some, as long as there are any near, but they are +troublesome about most any water set for mink. + +The fur bearers here are fox, mink, skunk, opossum, raccoon and rats, +and none of them plentiful, writes a Tennessee trapper. + + [Illustration: WHERE SIGNS ARE PLENTY.] + +I will tell you how I captured a shy old mink that had run my line of +traps for two years. I had made up my mind to catch him or trap on +the balance of my days. I set my trap in the spring where he had been +wading; the first night he threw the trap and that seemed to make him +shy of the spring. + +I took a piece of muskrat and nailed it to a root above the trap, and +the second morning I visited my trap I had a crow, not mink, and the +mink had killed the crow by biting him through the back of the head. + +That made me more determined than ever to get that mink. I arranged +my traps all nicely, and the third morning I found a muskrat and he +was cut up badly by the mink. I took the fresh carcass of the rat and +rebaited again, and the fourth morning to my surprise I had another +crow. + +It seemed from the amount of tracks that they had fought a duel and +the crow had come out ahead, for he was still alive. I fixed my trap +all back again and the fifth morning had a fine muskrat. + +Well, I had about given up all hopes of catching him at that place so +I decided to move my set 200 yards up stream, where there was a log +projecting out over the water 2 feet above the water, where he +traveled under. There I gouged a hole back in the bank one foot back +so the water would flow back in enough to cover the trap, and I +baited with a fresh partridge, and the next morning I found my mink. +Now boys, this does not look as if they were very shy of human scent, +does it? + +First find a den where they have been going under the ice or where +they have been eating a dead rabbit or chicken say an Iowa trapper. +Next I select my traps, Newhouse No. 1 or 1 1/2 or Hawley & Norton 1 +1/2. I examine them to see if they are in good order. When setting at +a den or where they have been eating some dead animal, cover with +leaves, feathers or snow; fasten to a stick that can be dragged a +short distance. I bait with chicken, rabbit, birds and mice. Fish is +also good. Brush away your tracks and do not approach too close. If +the traps are undisturbed, I leave them for a week. Frequently mink +do not come out every night. + +When setting where they go under the ice, I use a No. 2 Jump Trap. If +the water is not too deep, lay two sticks in the bottom of the stream +about two inches apart. Between these I lay bait, generally mice. Set +trap, and fasten it to a stick on top of the ice. Cover trap with +moss and leaves and you will generally get him, or, at least, that is +my luck. + +I will always remember my first mink. I found the den. They went +under the ice and the hole was below the water. I set my trap +carefully, baited with sapsucker and the next morning I had him. Set +trap back and caught another one. + + + +CHAPTER VII. + +INDIAN METHODS. + +Oftentimes while walking through the winter wood I find the track of +a mink, that starts or ends in a brook or pond, says a New England +trapper. To set a trap in this case, if the snow is light, I do as +follows: + +First, I use a drag around the woods where the track is seen. To make +this I kill an old hen or rooster, split it open, and mix equal parts +of fish oil and the juice that comes with oysters. If the track is +very old, I add an equal part of oil of assafoetida, and put the +mixture inside the hen, leaving the entrails in and sew it up +loosely. Then I tie it to a rope, and starting at the point where the +track leaves the water, drag it through the woods, not very far, +ending in the brook again. At several places along the line I secrete +traps, exactly in the path made by the drag. + +A mink, striking the scent will follow it, and, there being no bait +to scare him or arouse his suspicions, will run along the track until +he gets into one of the traps. This is a good set to use in woods +where a bait would mean having your traps lifted by John Sneakum. I +don't know how it will work with others, but I have had fine success +with it, especially in the cases of old "bait-shy mink." + +Here is another set shown me by an old half-breed Indian. We were in +a light canoe, and were paddling up a little reed-fringed brook, from +ten to thirty feet wide. In the weeds were several muskrat houses. As +it was spring, they were all finished and the rats were no longer +working on them. The old man set two traps on the house, and barely +under water. Then he put a few drops of the scent that is found in a +sack just under the root of the mink's tail, on a leaf on the very +top of the muskrat house; and then placed a small piece of muskrat +with the fur on, beside the scent, fastening it with a skewer. + +He said, "mink, come 'long and smell 'nother mink an' muskrat on top +house. He clim' up, get caught, an' all drown good." "But," said I, +"muskrats will climb up too, 'cause you've got muskrat meat for +bait." "Oh-h-h no!" he chuckled. "Muskrat he heap 'fraid of mink. We +have mink to-morrer-wonca, numpaw, yawha, yawminee mink (1, 2, 3, 4 +mink). You see? Then you no call ol' In'jun big fool." Sure enough +next morning he had shagipee (6) mink to show for as many sets. The +principle was that the muskrat wouldn't climb up, for he would see +the fur and smell the mink scent, and think it was a mink. + + [Illustration: INDIAN TRAPPER.] + +Mink often follow muskrat trails, especially in the fall before the +snow comes. To set a trap in the trail would mean to catch a rat, and +make a meal for a mink; so I post a rooster's head about two feet +from the trail and set a No. 1 1/2 trap under it. The rat isn't +likely to leave the trail for the head, but the mink will, unless he +is hot after a muskrat. + +When brooks unite and form a "Y" there is often a little sand pit +left in the crotch of the "Y." I hang a piece of muskrat meat with +mink scent on it upon a small stick leaning out over my trap, which +is set in two or three inches of water, and staked out so as to drown +the mink. + +An Indian subscriber of the Hunter-Trader-Trapper and who writes of +his experiences occasionally to that interesting magazine, in one +season caught with dog and trapped in Northwestern Pennsylvania 104 +mink. The name of this Indian is John Lord, and he has trapped as far +west as California. The illustration shows him to be a young man. The +picture shown here was taken in 1905 when he was hunting and trapping +in Pennsylvania. + +The 104 mink were caught during the season of 1905-6, and as the +pelts were high then it can be seen that he makes considerable money. +The fact that he caught that number is pretty well established by +several well known parties. John is an Iroquois and a good fellow and +trapper. + + + +CHAPTER VIII. + +MINK TRAPPING ON THE PRAIRIE. + +As there has not been much written on mink trapping on the prairie, I +will give a few hints for the benefit of young prairie trappers, on +trapping mink, says a Minnesota trapper. In the first place the steel +trap is about the only trap that can be used; there being no timber +over large portions of the Northwest and Canada. + +I wait till ice is frozen over the runways and ponds, then I go at it +making a circuit of the runways. I find where the mink go out from +the shore to some muskrat's home, which will have a pole in it above +water. I set two traps there, then look around. Close by I will find +a small dump of trash made by muskrats, where the mink go to dung. I +set two or three traps so when set and covered with fine brush they +will be even with the surface and looking natural. I will then go on +shore which is generally flat, following the mink signs I will find +where they have dug into an old muskrat run. I put two or three traps +around here close together so when caught the mink soon gets in two +traps, then he is there to stay. + +I use no bait when setting at a place like this; the first mink +caught smells the place up so there is no need of any patent scent. +Every mink that gets on that swamp, if it is not over two or three +miles long, will visit that place in one or two nights. At a place +like that I leave the traps all winter and will catch as many mink as +a trapper that scatters twice as many traps, one in a place, all over +the swamp. + +There are one or two places in every swamp or pond where nearly every +mink will visit. It may be a hole in a bank or an old muskrat house. +You can tell it by the signs or by tracks in the snow. There is the +place, then you are sure of your mink. + +I make small iron stakes to fasten my traps where I can get nothing +for a drag. I make them myself. Take a rod 1/4 inch thick, cut in +lengths 8 inches long, turn one end when hot over the ring of trap +chain, sharpen the other end. I only lost one mink last winter by +gnawing his foot off. A fish is good bait for mink, also fish oil and +fresh rabbits or birds. When buying traps, buy the best, they are the +cheapest in the long run. + +Some trappers buy the cheap traps and lose enough fur the first +season to pay for good traps. + +I find that it pays to stretch and care for furs well. I have bought +furs that were not worth one third price. Mink were stretched 6 +inches wide at tail tapering to a point at nose, being 8 inches long, +when they should have been 16 or 20 inches and 3 to 4 wide. Again I +have got them that they were stretched so tight you could see through +them. + + [Illustration: CAMPING OUT.] + +Some trappers claim the mink is very sly and hard to trap, others +that he is very easy to trap, and that they could catch an unlimited +number if the mink were only plentiful in their locality. I always +like to read anything I can find on this subject, says an Illinois +trapper. Sometimes I find methods that I have used with good success, +methods that I think would be good, and methods that I think would +never work in any locality. Not like the muskrat, the habits of the +mink are almost the same in all localities, but changing some in +different seasons of the year. In Central Illinois along with the +change of seasons, we have wet and dry seasons, and good methods of +trapping in the dry season will not work at all in the wet. + +When I first started trapping mink I met with very good success, not +due to any good method, but as far back as I can remember I have +always been a lover of nature, and I was not a stranger to the habits +of the mink. And I will say right here to all young trappers, and +also to some older ones--learn the habits of the animal you wish to +trap, and if you are half a trapper, success will be yours. I have +learned many things that I never knew before I trapped for him, but I +would not trade what I knew before for what I have learned since. I +am going to try to make plain to you, brother trappers, some of the +methods we use here in Illinois, and I believe these same methods +will work in all localities. + +This section of the country is cut up with small ditches and small +creeks, ideal places for mink and muskrat. In the dry season all the +tile ditches and small creeks have very little water in them, and no +better places can the mink find than a dry tile or an old muskrat +den. Here they will live until the water drives them out in the +spring. + +When setting the trap at a tile, if the tile is too large, a couple +of sticks stuck in front of the tile will narrow the opening, and a +trap set properly in front of the tile will be very apt to catch the +mink going in or out of the tile. Always see that the jaws of the +trap rest firmly on the ground and that there is no danger of dirt or +sticks or even grass getting in between the jaws of the trap, for if +it does you will lose your mink even if he gets caught. A mink that +has once been caught in a trap is doubly hard to catch, although I +have met two exceptions to that rule, and will say that they were two +of the blindest mink I ever trapped. + +Fine grass, dried willow leaves, rabbit fur, or most any light +material that will not interfere with the workings of the trap and +will not make too great a contrast to the surroundings, will be good +to cover the trap. Always be careful not to disturb the surroundings +too much, as a mink will notice this quicker than the scent you leave +on the traps when you set them. + +A good rule to follow is--always set your trap facing the way you +think the mink is going to come, never sideways if possible to set +any other. In setting at an old rat den, if possible always set the +trap a couple of inches inside of the den and pull the spring around +so a mink going into the hole will not step on the spring. + +If you catch a female mink first, always reset the trap, as the +chances are greatly in your favor of catching the male soon, and if +mink are plentiful in your locality you may catch as many as a half a +dozen males if in the running season. If you can find where an old +rat hole leads down to the edge of the water from the top of the +bank, a trap set in the lower end of this hole will catch nearly +every mink that comes along. They very seldom miss the chance to +explore a hole of that kind. The old trapper that told me about this +set said that he caught twelve mink in one season at a place of this +kind, and all in the same trap, a No. 1 Newhouse. It had been a wet +season this year I speak of, and I will tell you how I trapped mink +in January and with six inches of snow on the ground. + +The ditches and creeks all had water in them and were either frozen +over or covered with drifted snow. My best set was to set a couple of +traps in the warm water that came out of the tiles. A mink is a great +lover of water and will play in a place of this kind for half an hour +at a time, and two traps will almost catch him. Whenever there is a +small air hole in the ice he will investigate, and if you place the +trap directly under this hole he cannot very well miss getting +caught. For this set the water should not be over four inches deep. + +After the mink makes a hole through the snow drift he will always +follow the same hole, will come into and go out of the water at +certain places, and a trap set at any of these places is almost sure +to catch. + +As a scent bait, I use the matrix of the female mink taken in the +running season, and for fresh meat bait I use rat, but I prefer the +blind and water sets, and do not use the others until these two have +failed only in the latter part of February and March. With slight +changes I believe these sets can be used in most localities. + +My experience in trapping is limited to one season, the last, during +which I trapped 39 mink, besides the five that left their legs in +traps and four taken by thieves and dogs. But my success has been so +much above that of others who have tried to duplicate my luck, that I +want to give some pointers to some who have not had satisfactory +results in trapping mink, says a South Dakota party. + +This is a well settled prairie country, with one small creek running +through it, and an occasional slough. Game of all kind is pretty well +cleaned out. In fact, it was not generally known that any number of +mink existed here. Being quite a hunter with nothing to hunt, I +conceived the idea to trap a mink, and before I got through I found +the sport more enjoyable and profitable than hunting. I had no +trappers guide to help me, and it took me three weeks and more than a +dozen trips to my traps to catch the first mink. But during that time +my experience and observations were teaching me fast. And later when +I saw a trap at about every hole in the country with seldom a catch, +it amused me. + +My receipt to a beginner is--get three sizes of traps, No. 0 to set +at holes, No. 1 to set in water or path, and Stop Thief to set over +holes that the others cannot be used at, or for sure catch when you +know mink to be in. See that your traps have strong springs, and that +when set fine the pan is on a level with jaws. All traps should be +alike in this respect. Now to prevent them from rusting as well as to +take the scent off, heat them enough to run some wax over them. + +As to where to set them, you must find some signs of mink near water, +tracks in sand, droppings, or best of all, used holes. Now remember +you have to deal with some of the most intelligent but superstitious +and shy of animals. I kept one at my house for a while and found him +more intelligent than a cat or dog. They get bold and careless some +times, but not very often. Their holes are frequently shallow, and +they are suspicious of one's presence. The less you frequent the +place and tramp about his paths, the better. Avoid the hole if +possible. + +First choice is to set the trap in shallow water on his runways, +sticking up weeds if necessary to make him go over the traps. The +next choice is where he goes in and out of the water. Next in dry +path and last at his hole where he is the most suspicious of +disturbance. Water set is the best and easiest, but even then the +trap should be covered with light mud. + +On dry land you should leave the place looking as natural as before. +At the hole use a small trap, Blake & Lamb is the easiest and +quickest set. Remove enough dirt to sink the trap to a level. Set +trap with jaws never crossways to the hole. Have jaws rest so that +jaws will not tilt if stepped on. Now see that pan is set just about +right, not too easy, and now you are ready for the most important +part--to cover--so it will stay covered and spring regardless of +freezing, thawing, snowing, or blowing, and not to clog the jaws with +rubbish. It is too tedious to get the mink over the trap to have +something go wrong at the critical moment. I use brown tissue paper +or the fuzz from cattails, which I sprinkle with a little fine dirt +or rubbish at hand, the chain having been previously staked and hid. +All should now be left looking as natural as before, and one's tracks +obliterated. + +A well set trap will not reveal itself to the game or to any other +trapper. A hole set trap should not be approached unnecessarily. Mink +will seldom get in the first night, and it takes too long to reset +them. + +Mink will stay in holes several days if they fear danger. I had one +stay twelve days because there was a Stop Thief trap over the hole, +but I kept it there because there was a steam visible at the mouth of +the hole, and I got her. I have used scent to some advantage, not to +draw but to detract the mink's attention, but as to baits I have +faithfully tried them all from muskrat to a frog, and I have never +known a mink to approach any of them no matter where, when, or how +left, except if left by themselves. + +In the fore part of the winter I caught about all the males, perhaps +because they were bolder. Later I got the females. The largest mink I +got stretched 42 inches from tip to tip, and his hide on a five inch +board was 24 inches. He was light brown. No. 0 held him by two toes. +In fact, I never lost a mink from that sized trap. Those that chewed +out were caught up too high. + +My experience in trapping is altogether in mink and in a prairie +country, and it has always been a great pleasure and very profitable +for me, says an Iowa trapper. As I have said, trapping mink is a +science which few trappers understand, and can learn only by long +experience and close study. Any one taking two or three dozen traps +and stringing them out, setting in holes and ditches, can catch a few +mink. I know men who have trapped for years and claim to catch lots +of fur, but it makes me smile to see how they set them; they simply +don't know their A B C's about trapping mink. + + [Illustration: MOSES BONE.] + +The time that I have put in trapping mink for the last 37 years has +paid me bigger money than anything I ever tried; of course I mean +buying and shipping at the same time of trapping. Counting ten hours +as a day's work, I have cleared from five to twenty dollars per day. +Now as I said several years ago, I have no secret or I would let +brother trappers have it; I use no scent whatever but fresh bait, +which is all that is necessary. + +You must learn by experience where and how to set your trap. That is +all the secret any mink trapper has. The method for setting for mink, +rats or coon are all the same, can catch either in the same trap. +Water set is my way of setting and far better than any other I think. +In ditches or streams where the water is shallow enough to set your +traps in where the current runs against the bank; then scoop out a +hole 8 inches into the bank. I have used a butcher knife to dig the +mud out with; the water must flow into the hole, which should be two +inches deep. Cut a forked stick, one prong one inch long, the other 6 +or 8 inches long; sharpen it, run your bait on this, put the stick in +the back of the hole which fastens your bait. + +Now set your trap, turn the spring to one side, fasten the chain the +handiest way you can so it is secure. I never had a mink cut his leg +off and get away. Now stick up weeds or sticks on either side of the +hole so the mink can't get the bait without stepping on the pan of +the trap. The current should run strongly over the trap so as to keep +the water from freezing, for there are very few nights after trapping +time sets in but that the water freezes in still water. I sometimes +dam the water to make it run strongly over the trap. Everything about +the trap should be left looking as natural as possible. + +In cold weather I go on the same principle. When everything is frozen +solid I use a hatchet cutting a hole in the bank; use ice or chunks +of wood to make a lane to set your trap in, and throw your bait in as +far as you can get it. Of course you cannot fasten it. + +To show how well animals can scent a bait or anything of that kind I +will relate an incident that happened several years ago. There was a +fresh fall of snow and being warm the skunk were out of their +burrows, and I was tracking one going southeast course. All at once +it turned square to the left going some thirty feet and came to an +old dried up mole covered with the snow. He nosed around it a while +and then went the same direction as before. That showed plainly that +animals can scent their game. + + + +CHAPTER IX. + +SOUTHERN METHODS. + +On reading the methods used by the Northern mink trapper one is +almost forced to the conclusion that the mink there is a different +one from those here, (in Texas), but of course such is not the case. +My limited experience in trapping mink here has brought me to the +conclusion that they are not afraid of human scent, or old musty +traps either. My opinion is that it is the disturbed surroundings +that cause them to shy from the trap. + +I once set a trap in a mink run in rather rank grass at 6 P.M. and +the next morning had a No. 1 mink in it (poor color of course). The +trap was not baited or scented and was set without gloves. Of course +I did not tread down or pull up the grass to make a nice place to +set, but stood at the side and slipped it in the trail in a slight +depression. The mink did not seem trap shy although he had lost a +foot in a previous experience. + +There are any number of mink here, but the catch is rather small +compared to the catch of other furs. I very often ask the trappers, +"why don't you go after mink, they will pay you best?" The answer is +invariably, "I can't catch them, I don't know how." "Why don't you +set your traps in their runs, or at the mouth of the dens?" Acting on +this advice he sails out, finds a den, leaves all his traps and other +plunder at it, and hikes out home for a spade and old Towser. They +both put in half a day, then give it up. Mr. Mink is not at home. +Can't trap them no how. Sometimes he accidentally gets one. Then he +goes after them right, tears and digs up every den he can find until +his enthusiasm plays out. By this time he has spoiled all, or a good +portion of his trapping ground, when if he had placed a trap at the +mouth of each den, and done it in a proper manner, he might have +caught twenty or twenty-five mink during the season. + +Now and then you find a fellow who has a good mink dog and catches +$75 or $100 worth of them in a season. While this is all right for +the fellow that owns a dog, it does not fill my ideas of getting mink +pelts, as tearing and digging out their dens has a tendency to cause +them to hunt homes elsewhere. I have caught four nice mink at the +mouth of one den in a single season, and very likely I shall catch +some there this season. I do not cover the trap, nor do I use scent +or bait. I place the trap in a depression about four or six inches +from the mouth of the den; don't cock the trap up so that he can see +it twenty feet before he reaches it; arrange matters so he will have +to get over the trap to get in the den. When he comes next time you +will likely get him. + + [Illustration: A YOUNG TRAPPER.] + +Mink here use the prairies around ponds and small streams that drain +the prairies. Around rice farms is a splendid place for them. They +den in rank grass and sand knolls, and travel at night, in all kinds +of weather, and very often you see them of foggy mornings. They feed +on frogs, small fish, crawfish, birds, rabbits and the like, and very +often they visit the poultry yards. My advice to the Southern mink +trapper is, find where mink use, follow out their trails and runs. By +noticing these closely you will find the places where he is compelled +to put his feet or quit the trail. Here is the place to set your +trap. Take a No. 1 of any good make, set it and adjust it properly +and slip it in the trail through the grass, and be sure that the top +of the jaws and spring are level with the ground. Do this in order +that he can't see the trap until he is at, or in it. + +In catching mink on the branches I very often use baits. When you +find a log crossing the stream, cut a notch for your trap, and smear +it with mud so it won't look fresh. It is the same with logs laying +up and down streams. On these sets I use bait and a slight covering +of fine trashy leaves. Put the bait under the trap, stake the chain +to the side of the log, then place on the slight covering. + +In most sets in water I make them blind, but should surroundings +require, I bait. While I use a very small amount, I am not averse to +using bait where I consider it required, and can say the same of +covering for traps. As for scent, have never used any, but am of the +opinion it would be of great help at certain seasons. + +Mink is about all there is to trap in this part of North Carolina, +and I have studied out a good many things about trapping them. I live +where the country is hilly and has a good many branches and creeks, +yet it is so thickly settled that mink are scarce. Up to within a +year ago there was scarcely any trapping done about here. + +Everybody seems to have a spite against the little mink, and whenever +the dogs start one everybody lays aside everything to help kill the +pesky varmint, and whoever kills it demands a chicken pie, whether he +gets it or not. And for just such reasons as this they are very +scarce, and it is very seldom that I can find the track of a real +large one. I think they must get out of this neighborhood as soon as +they are grown. + +I have to conceal my traps very cautiously to catch these small and +medium mink. When I am looking for a place to set my trap I select a +narrow sand bar where they wade down into the water. I then dig out a +place for the trap so it will set level and under water about a +quarter of an inch; I then take some large water soaked leaves and +cover trap, then cover leaves with fine dirt or sand like that around +trap. If the water is perfectly still, and nothing to bother +covering, I prefer a piece of wet paper, a little larger than trap, +instead of leaves. + +I will say to those trappers who never use anything but leaves to +cover their traps, that they could not get many mink around here that +way, for I have tried it, and they would either go around trap or +jump over it. Always carry some kind of firearms; it will more than +pay for its trouble. Then too, it leads others to believe you are +hunting and they won't be so apt to see you setting traps, and if you +let as few as possible see you set traps you won't have to accuse +"Sneakum" so often. It doesn't matter what you are trapping, cover +your traps the best you can, and then it won't be a fine job; don't +leave any loose dirt, tracks or anything else around trap that looks +odd or unnatural; when you get your pelt, don't tear it off any old +way, take your time and you will get big pay for it. + +In the following words I not only express my sentiments but the views +of all trappers I have conversed with on the subject, writes a Texas +trapper. Our mink are not at all educated. They are easily caught in +traps not even concealed. The mink, as we all know, is fond of having +food at all times, and when hungry does not appear to consider the +trap an impediment. + +Many are caught in Stop Thief Traps in this community. I was the +first to introduce that trap in this section, and it has met with +favor because it deprives the mink of the privilege of gnawing off +his foot or leg. They are trapped both in water and on land. + +I have always had better success trapping mink than other animals, +often catching them by their tails, which, by the way, is the best +kind to hold. If the mink here were trap-shy it would be better for +them, for there are very few of them that have not met the trapper's +fate. + + [Illustration: LARGE SOUTHERN MINK.] + +A Southern trapper writes as follows: When I was about fourteen years +old I got hold of a price list of raw furs and a kind of trapping +fever got hold of me and I purchased a trapper's guide, and when I +had studied it my father and I set to work to make some traps. When +we got them done I went down to a branch near here and set them the +best I knew how for mink. I tried him every way but never got a +smell. So I tried a year without success. Then I gave it up for +several years and thought I would have to content myself working in +the shop, as I am a mechanic by trade and not a trapper. + +In later years I thought I would try it again as the mink were giving +the poultry around here trouble. So I set out again, and in the +meantime I received a price list and I noticed they advertised animal +bait for sale. I ordered a bottle of mink bait and thought I would +catch them. When I received the bait I found where an old mink or two +had a runway in a small branch. They would come up the branch every +night. I killed some birds and used some mink bait on them and hung +them over my traps. One old dog mink would come within six inches of +the bait and my traps and did not pay any attention to it. I had some +of my traps in water and some on sand bars concealed the best I knew +how, but I did not get him that way. + +One evening I was at the shop and I told my father I was going down +to place my traps and see which was the smartest, the mink or me. I +had noticed he would go by my traps and climb up a little bank and +jump down over a root, so I set the trap there and covered with +leaves. I had four traps set close together, and when I went to the +sets the next morning I found him with a foot in each. He didn't dig +and gnaw everything in reach as he was too badly tied up. + +I thought I would get them all now, but I never got any more till +last season. I wrote to the Oneida Community for a price list of +traps and they mailed me one, and sent an advertisement of the H-T-T. +So I subscribed at once and received the October number. In reading +the letters I saw Brother F. M. Frazier's letter headed, "Advice to +Young Trappers." I was impressed with the old gentleman's tone of +writing so I wrote to him and asked him for help, and explained my +difficulties to him. He gave me some fine sets and told me things I +never thought of or heard of before, although I have since learned +that they had been published in the H-T-T. + +I purchased about thirty-nine second hand traps Nos. 1 and 1 1/2. +December 30th found me setting traps for mink. I carried out Brother +Frazier's plans and directions. I made thirteen blind sets, and on +Monday morning went around to see if anything was doing. The first +trap I came to was sprung and had a mink's toe in it. I felt pretty +bad, but that was more than I had gotten in a good while. So I went +to another trap, and before I got there I saw everything gnawed up, +and on going closer up jumped an old mink on a log near the trap. His +eyes sparked but I soon put an end to him, and I have been catching +mink ever since. + +On February 1st I moved some of my traps down a river near here. I +made most of my sets in water and used rabbit for bait. I made +enclosures and put bait in back end of same and the trap at the +entrance. I noticed a hole near the creek that emptied into the river +and I set a trap at the hole. I have noticed that hole for several +years and had been seeing a large mink on that creek for eight or ten +years. I have seen his track where he would go in that hole every +time he would go along by it, but when I set my traps there I didn't +see any tracks. The next time I went there I found a large brown mink +in my trap, but it wasn't the "big one." + +I didn't get any more there for some time, neither had I seen the big +mink track since I set my traps down there, but on going to my traps +one morning I saw that something was doing. When I came close I saw +that there was something big in the trap and had dragged the trap +back in the hole the full length of the chain. I took hold of the +chain and began to pull. I soon pulled him out as far as his hind +legs and he looked so big I let go the chain and he went back in the +hole. I pulled him out and put a 22 between his eyes and that settled +him. He measured thirty-two and a half inches from tip to tip on the +board. How is this for a large mink, brother trappers? + + + +CHAPTER X. + +NORTHERN METHODS. + +As for sets, I think it all depends upon the country and seasons. For +mink in my country, Ontario, I prefer a hollow tree turned up at the +roots, setting a No. 1 trap, baited with either fish or muskrat. Such +a set should be on the bank of a lake or river, as a hungry mink +going along the shore is always running in such old roots and logs. +As for water sets, they keep freezing up, and another thing, it is +not natural for a piece of meat to be hanging on a string. + +A Michigan trapper writes as follows: Now brother trappers, are you +energetically putting in your leisure time during September and +October looking up new grounds for hunting and trapping and finding +signs and trails of coon, mink and fox, or are you lounging around +and putting all this off till it is time to take out your line of +traps? + +September and October is the time to ascertain where the game is, and +if you wish success and good sport and increased revenue, it is to +your interest to do a little hustling and by watching their moves in +your neighborhood. I have made mink trapping a specialty and for +twenty-five years I have been successful in trapping him, and it did +not take me long to appreciate one point, that is, I was up against a +little animal of almost human intelligence, and today this animal is +as smart and as shy as they ever were. + + [Illustration: CAUGHT IN MINNESOTA.] + +There are three rules very essential in trapping any kind of animals, +one of the secrets of success is to know how, where and when to set a +trap. Another is to get a dependable trap, which in my estimation is +a Newhouse No. 1 and No. 2. I use these traps for every purpose from +a weasel to a large coon. The third one I never vary from, and that +is to set every trap as carefully as possible, as though it was +intended to catch a shy mink or coon, as one of those animals will +often happen around when one least expects it. + +It is best to set a trap in good shape and always take time and +conceal each trap carefully. I have before now set traps all around +in wood and field for skunk. I have gone the rounds to my skunk traps +and found a fine big coon or weasel instead of a skunk, or to my rat +traps and found a large mink or raccoon instead of a rat, and these +lucky surprises occurred because my traps were well set and +concealed. + +I will not outline my method how to set, but you may bet your old hat +you will take Mr. Coon or Mink, or whatever animal happens along in +your neighborhood, and you know where their trails are. From October +until trapping time look for their signs and tracks along water edge, +in woods, in old roads, cow paths in woods, pastures and fields, and +under fences, keeping all these places in mind until the time for +trapping comes. Then take with you lots of traps, then you know where +to set. + +Smoke your traps before setting, handle everything with gloves on, +cultivate the habit of leaving the place with as little change as +possible, and finish the job by brushing away your tracks immediately +around the traps. Then visit your traps regularly and without any +unnecessary company. + +Trappers often notice that fur bearing animals have disappeared from +the localities where once they were numerous. There are many reasons +for this disappearance, the destruction of their dens or trees in +which they live. No true trapper will cut a coon tree or dig out dens +of mink, skunk or fox, if he wishes to ever trap on the same ground +again. + +Now I am not a professional trapper, says a Minnesota trapper, but I +make all animal habits a very close study, and love to be among them +in their wild homes and love to set a trap once in a while just for +experience, and never fail to get my game. + +The other day I went rabbit hunting. We have about two inches of +fresh snow. I got one rabbit and found a fresh mink track so I +concluded to follow him. Inside of a hundred yards I found another +hole where he came out dragging something. I still followed. Another +fifty yards further I found where he went in another hole (it was in +a bog) and found a muskrat half eaten up and a fine place to set two +traps. + +I had no traps with me, so I marched home about four miles and got +two traps all rusted up and tied with a piece of copper wire. I +greased them up with sewing machine oil and started back. When I got +to the place it was getting dark and I had to set the traps by match +light. + +I will tell you how I set the traps to fool the mink so he could not +smell the traps or machine oil. I took the muskrat and rubbed all +over the traps with the bloody side and set the traps one in each +hole, and took an oak leaf and smeared blood on and laid it on the +pan of each trap, and then laid the muskrat in the center of the two +so he would have to cross either trap to get the rat. I then covered +the hole up with the same dirt and moss that I dug out, and went +home. At five o'clock the next morning I left home to get my prize. + +I got there by daylight and there was Mr. Mink caught in both traps, +one on each foot. He was the largest mink I got that winter. He was +brown and when stretched measured exactly thirty-five inches from tip +to tip. + +I almost always trap mink in the winter with blind sets, says a +Wisconsin trapper, by chopping a place for the trap so it will be, +when set, about level with the surface of the mink's trail in front +of the holes that the mink makes in the snow. I then take cat tails +that grow in the marshes and spread some on trap bed; I then place my +trap and next some more cat tails spread on top of trap, and last +some snow which I spread over it all with a twig carefully so it will +be nice and smooth. The cat tail I spread under the trap is to keep +the trap from freezing fast at the bottom. I have had very good +success with this set. I used to use bait altogether, but very few +mink can now be caught around here with bait. + +I once set a trap for a mink alongside of a log which lay across the +stream, setting the trap on shore near the ice while standing on the +log; there was about 20 inches of snow on the ground, so it left a +space behind the trap in which I placed a piece of rabbit. The next +morning I should have had a mink but instead of that the mink had +that piece of rabbit, and a larger hole alongside the log showed that +it had been dragged further back under the snow. I then set my trap +again, tying fast another piece of rabbit, but Mr. Mink had enough +rabbit for a while, so about five days afterwards I had a squirrel in +it. + +I then threw the rabbit away and put the squirrel in the snow along +the side and above the trap, with only the tail out of the snow. +About three days more and something had happened. The trap laid +sprung in the place I had set it and in it was the tip of a +squirrel's tail, and the squirrel I had laid for bait was gone. This +might seem untrue but it is only too true, although just how it might +have happened I cannot account for. + +I then kicked up the snow and found that the mink had come from under +the ice on the other side of the log and circled the end of the log, +coming in behind the trap after the bait, all the way traveling under +the snow. I have never gotten that mink, but have learned better ways +since that time, and find that where mink are trapped much the blind +set is by far the best. + + + +CHAPTER XI. + +UNUSUAL WAYS. + +We can hardly approve of some of the methods herein described, but +they will doubtless continue to be employed so long as they are not +prohibited by law. Occasionally too, there might be circumstances to +justify resorting to the most objectionable of them, writes a trapper +and hunter of Maine. + +The first of those I shall speak of requires a good dog, one that +will follow the mink's track and drive him to hole. Nearly any +intelligent dog, with a fair amount of the hunting instinct, can soon +be trained to do this by allowing him to smell a few mink carcasses +while skinning, and calling his attention at every opportunity to the +trails of the animals along the streams, following them up and making +an effort to bag the mink, with his help, as often as possible. The +first snows afford good conditions for the rudimentary training, as +the trail can then be plainly seen by the trapper (or rather hunter +as he should be styled in this case) while a good scent is left for +the dog. + +Having qualified the dog for tracking, the next requisite is a +partner. This, of course, means a division of the profits, but is +unavoidable, as the work cannot be performed satisfactory by one +alone. Indeed, it will more often be found convenient to have yet a +third hand, which may be a boy to manage the dog and assist +generally. + + [Illustration: A FEW GOOD ONES.] + +A meadow brook, not too large, with low, spongy banks, can be worked +to best advantage. Look the ground well over in advance, acquainting +yourself with the haunts of the game, and all the holes and other +places in which a mink is likely to take refuge when pursued. For an +outfit you need at least a crowbar and shovel (sometimes a sharp +pointed, hardwood stick can be made to answer for the former) and +each man should have a gun. + +Go to the brook in the early morning, before the scent has had time +to cool. Allow the dog to hunt along the borders and under the banks, +and when he picks up a track, work along with him until he has the +game in hiding. You will find it necessary to assist him +considerably, as mink by no means always travel on land. When one +takes to the water, as they usually do at short intervals, the trail +is broken beyond the ability of the strongest nosed dog to follow at +such times as this, that is when Mr. Mink takes the brook for it, one +should go ahead with the dog and find where he resumed dry footing. +It will probably not be far, for he is in and out every few yards or +so, and if you go far without striking the trail you had better turn +back, for he is most likely hiding in the bank somewhere behind you. + +After locating the hole where he is hiding, let the dog dig him out +while a man stands a little distance up and down the brook +respectively, with gun ready cocked for him when he comes along. If +the hole extends some distance back into the bank, the rear end may +usually be reached, after a few trials, by thrusting the bar down +from overhead, which will have the effect to send the hunted animal +forth in a hurry. Often, however, the spade will have to be brought +into requisition and used freely before the object is accomplished. + +At first he will probably forsake one hole only to take refuge in +another, but when he finds that you are really after him, and that +there is, moreover, a dog in the racket, he will try the dodge of +swimming under water. Then is your time. Watch for him at the shallow +places, where he will prove an easy mark. Have guns loaded light and +aim to have charge strike a little to one side of body. The +concussion will be sufficient to stop him, and the fur will not be +injured as in firing point blank. It is exciting sport for the mink +is like "greased lightning" in his movements, and if given the least +chance will outwit both dog and man and escape. + +An old New Hampshire gunner told us that he and his partner once got +sixteen mink this way in one week, the best of which brought them +twelve to fifteen dollars a skin. He knew absolutely nothing about +trapping so resorted to this method instead. We have mentioned spade, +bar and guns as comprising the necessary outfit, but of course various +other implements of one's own invention and manufacture can often be +used to advantage. Some make great account of a piece of wire with a +sharp hook at one end for thrusting into the hole and drawing the +mink to the light, as a trout from the water. Others use a long +handled spear to thrust under banks, or to pinion the game when going +through shallows. A truly barbarous practice besides the further +objections of greatly damaging the pelt of the animals taken thus. + + [Illustration: BROKE THE FASTENING.] + +Another mode of capturing the mink is to lie about the streams on wet +and foggy days and shoot him. They travel a great deal in such +weather. By selecting a spot where you can keep well hidden, yet +commanding a long stretch of beach under some overhanging bank, you +stand a good chance to secure a shot if you have plenty of patience. +Of course you would not be apt to get many in a day, but one mink +represents a pretty good day's work at the price they are selling +now. + +One characteristic of the animal should be borne in mind when +pursuing this method of hunting him, and that is his persistency in +going whichever way he wishes to go. If a mink starts to go up a +brook he's going up before he gets through with it, or lose his life +trying; and down the same. The more anybody or anything tries to +prevent him, the more desperate and reckless he grows in his efforts +to accomplish his aim. So if one sees you and turns back startled +don't follow him, but just crouch down in a convenient hiding place +and wait for him. The chances are ninety to one that he will soon be +back again. + +I have known trappers to have good success taking mink with a common +box trap such as is used in catching rats about the house and barn, +and I am inclined to think that aside from its bulkiness this is a +pretty good sort of trap. Some use poison as for the wolf, but the +use of this on animals was always repugnant to me. + +Perhaps the queerest method of which I ever heard was that mentioned +by a gentleman in Illinois. He claimed to have caught mink with an +ordinary fish hook, baited, and attached to a piece of wire. + +I do not believe, however, that any of the methods mentioned in this +article are equal for effectiveness and true sport to the regular way +with steel trap or deadfall. Some of them, it seems to me, I could +not be induced to make use of on any account. And yet, as already +stated, one might find himself in circumstances that would justify +their adoption. + + + +CHAPTER XII. + +ILLINOIS TRAPPER'S METHOD. + +I for one will say that the mink is a very shy animal, but I do claim +he can be caught if you study him and set your trap in the right +place. I will suppose that you are trapping along a small stream. All +you need is plenty of traps, a belt with a small hatchet attached, a +small caliber pistol, and a pair of hip rubber boots. A pair of these +boots are as necessary in a trapper's outfit as the main spring is in +the watch or clock. Be sure to have your traps in good working order. + +Oh yes, I forgot the scent. This you can make yourself by cutting up +a couple of cats and muskrats in fine pieces and let them rot good, +then add some fish oil and four or five different kinds of oil that +you can buy at a drug store. To make this scent all the better you +had better put in about one-half pound of limburger cheese. Now then +you got her to smelling just right, and every mink that gets a whiff +of this perfume will say, oh joy, and hike off in the other direction +as fast as his legs can carry him. I took a little bottle of this +great scent with me once on a trapping trip. I carried it in my coat +pocket. I was leaning over some roots setting a trap when the cork +came out of the bottle--well, you know the rest. I never need to hunt +for this coat when I want to put it on, for it always makes itself +known. + +You are now ready to set your traps. You might take a couple of dogs +and several small boys to help track up the ground. This the mink can +see and smell, and it makes them easier to catch. Now then with your +traps on your back, get down into the water, and be careful when +going in and out of the water and not make tracks in mud and on side +of bank. + +The place to set your trap is on the edge of the water. Walk along in +the water and examine every hole just even with the water's edge. +Some of the holes may come out several inches under water. Set your +trap here in water 2 1/2 inches deep, turn spring to right and cover +trap with a muddy leaf, fasten trap with a stick run through ring, +and have chain stretched out in deep water as far as it will reach. +You will see that you haven't touched a thing but your trap and +stake. As for the trap, the running water will clean it of any scent +you may have left on by handling, but the stake I splash with water +and wash a little. If in setting the trap you touch or step on the +bank, wash out your tracks with water. + +Now then move on, and if you come to a tree on the bank that has lots +of roots just even with the water, examine it close, for here is a +good place for a mink den. If you find a hole set your trap as +before, being careful to leave things as they were. A place where the +bank guides the mink into the water is a good set. If you set a trap +and have reason to think that the mink will walk around it, then +stick up small sticks and little bushes so as to make a fence to +guide your mink into the trap. A mink is not afraid of it, for he +sees bushes in the water, and it will not scare him a bit. + +The way just spoken of, of sticking sticks across the water, is a +very important way to catch mink, and I advise all trappers to give +it a little more thought. If you trap along a ditch or very small +stream just try it. Stick your sticks across the stream just like a +little fence, leaving three gaps, one at each end and one in the +middle. Set your three traps in here, and I bet you will get nearly +every mink that goes up that stream. Of course, stand in the water +while you are doing all of this, and your success will be doubly +better. + +When you put out a line of traps where there are mink, hide every +trap as carefully as you can. Suppose you set a trap uncovered at +what you suppose to be a muskrat hole, you don't know but what some +mink might come along, and on entering the hole he sees the +trap--well, it don't take him long to leave the place. Then boys, the +very next hole that mink goes into he will look for another trap. You +don't need to fool a mink very often until he becomes educated, and +then catch him if you can. + + [Illustration: TRAPPING DOWN STREAM.] + +To catch mink successfully you must have open water. I very seldom +set for mink when water is all frozen up. Did you ever notice that +you made your best catch of mink on a snowy or rainy night? Now, why +is this? It is because your tracks and scent were either washed out +or covered up by snow. A mink is not a hard animal to catch if you +have water and weather just right, and you are careful about setting +your trap. But he is a very shy animal, and boys if you are not +careful to study his habits you will pay dear for every pelt you get. + + + +CHAPTER XIII. + +EXPERIENCED TRAPPERS' WAYS. + +At first when I started to trap I thought I could catch mink every +time, says an Iowa trapper. That was three years ago this last +February. Well I caught two mink that spring and seven the next +winter and sixteen the next. That was the first season that I was +able to catch every mink that trots or lopes my way, big, little, old +and young are treated all alike; sometimes it takes a mink three or +four days to come out of a hole when you track him in. + +A water set is a pretty good set for mink but you cannot find many +springs that you can set a trap in the winter time, so I set dry sets +for them. At a hole is a good place. Put a piece of muskrat carcass +in the hole to keep the rabbits from going in and set a Blake & Lamb +trap in the entrance. Chop a hole in the frozen ground large enough +for the trap and cover it with tissue paper and thinly with dry dirt. +Be sure to put some dry material of some sort under the trap to keep +it from freezing down, have the surface of the ground level after it +is covered over with dry dirt so you cannot tell just exactly where +the trap is yourself, or in other words don't have a high place where +the trap is when it is covered over. Fasten the trap to a drag of +some sort. If you fasten to something solid the mink will pull out if +he is only caught by the toes. + +I caught two mink one winter that only had three legs. They were the +ones that pulled out of my traps because I had the trap fastened too +solid. One mink I caught was only caught by one toe and was tied to a +little brush drag; when I tracked him up I found that he had gone +about ten rods. When I got in sight of him he got stout and pulled +out and started off at a pretty stiff gait, and I had to let the dog +catch him for he was geared up too high for me to catch. + +Trappers, have you not had your mink trap set and baited under a +shelving bank and seen mink tracks going up and down by the bait and +they would not touch it? Get some sticks and stick them from bank +down into water that is five or six inches deep, is the advice of a +Maine trapper. Leave a place for trap up next to bank where he +travels and cover nicely with fine rotten wood, and you will get more +mink setting this way than you will with all the bait you bother +with, that is, if you pick out such places along the brook and stick +up sticks close enough so he cannot get by without going over trap. + + [Illustration: EASTERN TRAPPER AND TRAPS.] + +I don't mean to say that bait isn't good, because I have caught a +good many with bait, and there are lots of times when I can't find +such a place and of course use bait and scent. Some say mink are +afraid of human scent and set the trap with gloves, and that they are +foxy and hard to catch. I don't think a mink knows any more than a +skunk, and I can catch them just as easy. Last winter I went to my +trap one morning and found two toes of a mink in one and one toe in +another, and inside of a week I had both of them in the same trap and +in the same place. + +Mink are not very plentiful in some places which makes some people +think they are hard to catch, and others don't know how to set a trap +right for mink. + +The first requisite in trapping mink is water, either a lake or +river, says a Minnesota trapper. Small streams are to be preferred, +and the swifter the current the better. Why? Because swiftly running +water does not freeze so quickly, a fact every boy knows. + +Next, select a spot on the shore where the bank is steep, ascending +directly up from the water, and place your trap (a No. 1 or 1 1/2 of +any good make) in about two inches of water and about six inches from +the bank, and fasten trap by driving a stake full length of chain out +in the water. Many trappers advocate the use of both bait and sliding +pole or spring pole, but personally I do not care for either, unless +there is danger of trap lifters "swiping" your game; in such cases +the sliding pole is the best, as it is more humane and game is +entirely concealed. If the bank is not too high set your trap from +the top and place in position with a stick, for by so doing you do +not make any muss around the trap. + +Now let me caution young trappers about setting too many traps for +one mink. One trap well set is better than a dozen just slung in or +even well set and carefully concealed. It is not necessary to have +four or five traps within a radius of six feet as young trappers +often do. I discovered a case of this kind once. + +For two weeks once I was after a sly representative of the mink +family but without success. Every trick in my command was tried +without success, but one morning I determined to try for him up a +small spring creek, where he was in the habit of going. I hesitated +about putting my traps on this creek. I had hesitated about putting +my traps on this creek as the owner usually lifted all traps found +there. As there was no snow there except small patches I was not +aware of another trapper's work on this brook, but a few drops of +blood on a patch of snow caused me to open my eyes, and I was not +long in discovering his traps. A blind man could have done that for +they were literally thrown in, some almost upside down and others +with the spring half out of the water. + +I followed his line for about twenty rods, and then discovered the +place of capture. Six traps were set in as many holes, and all in a +radius of five feet, but they had done the business. Was I mad? I +shall leave it to the reader to guess. Boys, let me tell you this +capture was an accident and not the result of skill. + +I have endeavored to explain as simply as possible one set for mink, +but this method will not answer all winter, for all the streams will +freeze during extreme cold weather. On nearly all lakes and rivers +springs can be found, and here is the place for your traps in cold +weather. Common sense will show you the most suitable spot for the +set. All minks have a weakness for wading in such springs, and a trap +carefully placed and concealed will get a mink if there are any in +the vicinity. + +It was early in the fall of 1901 and I was working on the farm. I one +day saw signs of mink under a bridge near home so I had a friend who +was working for us set two traps for him that day, writes another +party from Minnesota. I set the traps a few inches under water, +covered them with wet leaves, thinking, "I will have you tomorrow." +Well, the next morning we came along but no mink, so in the afternoon +we looked at them again and Mr. Mink got in one trap, pulled it in +between two logs, and the other trap was sprung. I then pulled on the +other chain and the mink was in the trap. I pulled and all at once +his foot slipped out. This taught Mr. Mink a lesson. + +I set my traps again, and after this he sprung traps about as fast as +I could reset them. So I set six more traps and got some ten and +twelve inches under water. I used to reset the traps before I went to +dinner, and after dinner he had every one sprung and the water looked +very muddy. I laid for him but never did see him. I trapped for that +mink every year until 1904. I saw his tracks on the snow so I got out +some snow sets and one January morning I found him dead in the trap. +He was a large dark mink and had lost all his toes by traps. + +A good place to catch mink is at the mouth of a spring. Get your +traps well under water and cover up with wet leaves, as a mink +usually goes up such a small stream. I will say to the beginner, +never get cheap traps, as they are the dearest in the end. Never +catch fur until it is prime. + +I find no difficulty in catching mink if they are plenty, but thin +them down to one or two well educated animals and your task is +different, says an Ohio trapper. Where plenty I set in riffles, +building stone walls or staking across not too high, a foot is +plenty, leaving one or more openings, according to width. Place a +trap (No. 1 or 1 1/2 Newhouse is best) in each opening. I invariably +stake at such places for if attached to shunks, bushes or small logs, +the trap is liable to float away in sudden rising of high water. +Place a trap at mouth of tiles, ditches or drains, staking well out +from trap. + + [Illustration: BARRICADE SET.] + +I have caught a great many mink along where the over-hanging sod had +curled down, leaving a space between sod and bank sometimes of a good +length. This is a capital place to catch mink, as every one that goes +up and down that side will almost always go through. All trappers +know mink are very inquisitive about such places, and if the place is +formed in summer or early fall they will already have used it as a +runway. After finding such a place, put a trap at one or both ends of +hole. Set trap level and cover well but not too deep, and I am sure +if there are any mink traveling the stream you will stand a fair show +of getting them. I have caught two mink at such places, one in each +trap in the same night, more than once. + +An old hollow log is also a good place for mink with a trap at each +end. You will notice when there is a light shift of snow that mink +cross old logs, limbs, boards and dams that are across streams. Put +your trap in the center of crossing place, as you cannot tell where +he will get on or off at. Always cover traps when not setting in +water. Old hollow stumps, trees, openings in fences, stone walls, or +flood-gates, drifts and the like are good places to set traps for +mink; path openings in brush, in fact anywhere you see signs of their +travels, as they most generally have a route which they follow more +or less. I have followed them across country from the headwaters of +one stream to another, to swamp and swales where the muskrat abounds, +turning every "hole inside out," so to speak, and they seem to know +them all. + +For bait I use fish oil, you can get it almost anywhere and it is +cheap and good, the older the better. Place a few drops on the end of +a tile, roots of a tree or stone, or in fact anywhere you have a trap +but not on your trap. I never put it on dead bait but just sprinkle +it around. A mink likes to kill his own game. Make him think there is +some around and hunt for it, which he surely will do if there is +nothing but the scent to find. + +To be a successful mink trapper you must study his trails and set +your trap accordingly. + +Most methods that I read for trapping the mink are for trapping in +the north or far north. Now some of them are good, while others are +useless here. From my observation of the habits of the mink in +Virginia, I don't think they have any fixed abode (in trapping season +any how). Wherever is most convenient after a full meal or light +overtakes them they den up for the day, and the next day may be +snugly sleeping under the roots of a blown over tree or under the +banks of a creek five miles away. The building of barricades of +rocks, old chunks or pens of sticks and bait within is time and labor +thrown away. Now, young trapper, I am going to give you four of my +favorite sets for mink, that if you will follow will give you some +success, if there are any mink where you are trapping. + +Follow along ditches and find where they cross, usually called secret +ditches, which come into the main one, set your trap at the entrance +of the covered one a little under water, and cover with water soaked +leaves. Do not use bait but may use scent, or a decoy. One may be +fixed by making a box about 6 inches square, 12 or 18 inches long, of +old boards, with hoe plant in bank at desirable place so as to look +natural. Set your trap in front. + +Another is to get a piece of hollow log 3 or 4 feet long, place in +mouth of ditch or branch where it comes into creek, anchor with +stakes or weigh down with stones, close one end, place trap at other, +under water if possible; place bait in log. This is a sure set for +coon. It took me nearly half a day last September to cut a log, get +it in branch and weigh down with stones to keep high water from +washing away, but caught four mink and two coon at the entrance. + +Another is where banks are steep along small streams. Set trap in +water, cause anything that may come along to pass over trap by a row +of dead sticks, weeds or a bunch of old weeds. I have also caught +many by placing two old logs five or six feet long, four or five +inches apart in shallow water near a steep bank, cover with a larger +log. If you have plenty of traps you can set one in each end. Do not +use bait but can use scent. Be sure to search out all the old hollow +logs near streams and set trap in or near entrance--place bait in +log. By following these rules any one, where game is fairly +plentiful, can catch some mink. + + + +CHAPTER XIV. + +MANY GOOD METHODS. + +Last winter I knew of at least eight trappers who were trapping for +mink along the same stream where I was trapping, and while all of +them combined caught four mink, I had the good luck of catching +thirteen in my traps and I shot one one morning, making fourteen in +all, says an Ohio trapper. + +I wonder how many readers have ever heard a mink scream when in a +trap? I think it is the most blood-curdling hair-raising noise I have +ever heard; it is equal to the scream of a panther. I had great sport +last winter by sending some young boy trappers out to track a mink to +his den. I told them that all they had to do was to follow him to the +last hole he crawled into and then set their traps, but after +following him for about three miles they came back discouraged and +disappointed. They said he had gone into about one thousand holes, +but had always come out again, and such was a fact. + +I don't know how they do in other parts of the country, but here it +is next to impossible to track one down; it looks as if they never +stop. I have followed them for six miles already and they were still +going on; I don't believe that they have any regular den or hole +after the breeding season is over; you just have to catch them on the +run. + +One evening last fall I was sitting on the creek bank fishing when a +very large mink came up the creek by me and he was a curiosity; his +tail was just as white as snow. I tried awfully hard to get hold of +him last winter, but failed. I presume he never stopped until he +reached the north pole. + +I have two methods for trapping them; one is to find a hole along +some stream, an old muskrat or woodchuck hole is best. If there are +no holes it is an easy matter to make one. It is a well known habit +of the mink to be crawling into every hole he comes to, and I have +known them to go one hundred yards out of their path, just for the +pleasure of investigating an old woodchuck hole. + +After finding a suitable hole for setting your trap, throw a piece of +muskrat liberally doped with equal parts of oil of peppermint and +sweet oil back in the hole, and set your trap at the entrance; use a +little care in concealing the trap and sprinkle a few drops of the +above oil over the trap, and you may be sure of having the pleasure +of skinning the first mink that comes along. + +I have caught them as far as two miles from any stream in my coon and +fox traps, so that goes to prove that they do not stay along the +streams altogether. + +Another method I use, and the one I consider the best, is to go along +the banks of some stream, where you are sure that mink are in the +habit of traveling, then get four old boards, six or eight feet long +and six inches wide, (if necessary logs can be used instead of +boards) then stake them down on their edges so that they will form +the letter X, only instead of crossing them leave a small opening of +three or four inches like this X for the mink to run through, then +set the trap a few inches either way from the center, or two traps +can be set, one on each side of the center. They will never jump over +the boards, but instead they will guide them over the trap. + +After an experience of 34 years in trapping mink I presume I can +give a few points, writes Mr. Moses Bone, of Iowa, that may help +younger trappers who wish to trap mink. The mink is very cunning +and hard to catch in a steel trap unless you know how and where to +set, which is about the only secret there is in catching mink. I have +had people write to know what scent I used and how I set traps. A man +can learn better methods as long as he traps--experience is the best +teacher--and unless he is willing to work hard he will never make a +successful trapper of any kind of game. A trapper simply wants to +shoulder his traps early in the morning and travel ten, twenty and +perhaps thirty miles a day; he must foot it, for no other method of +traveling will do. The writer has done it many times, starting before +daylight and not getting home until after dark. + +As before stated, my experience as a mink trapper began 34 years ago, +my brother and I trapping together, and we began putting out our +traps the first week in November, 1867. There were very few trappers +then and mink were plentiful. In four weeks we caught 101 mink and 50 +muskrats. The mink were mostly in prime condition and brought +$300.00. Rats at this time were worth 25 cents each. + +At the beginning of the trapping season my brother in one night +caught 15 mink, the largest catch I ever knew. In 1873 I caught 10 +mink in one night, but it took two days to visit my traps, walking 60 +miles. In 1878 I caught 15 mink in one hole where the water ran all +winter, and I never had to bait the trap as the scent was enough to +attract every mink coming near. In the past three years I have caught +90 mink within a mile of home. Several years ago I caught 8 in one +place. + +I use steel traps, not so many as I used to, as trappers are numerous +nowadays. Water set was always my favorite way of catching mink, +setting about two inches under water, in a spring, ditch or where the +water ran swift, otherwise the water will freeze over. Of course when +very cold weather comes, dry land sets must be resorted to. I always +use No. 1 steel traps. No. 1 1/2 is better for skunk or coon. For +bait use chicken, rabbit, or still better, muskrat, but they must be +strictly fresh. + +In order to make mink trapping interesting one must make it pay, and +where there are plenty of the animals the scientific trapper can make +it pay, for they are about as easily caught as any other game when +you understand your business. Mink fur is not good and prime before +the middle of November in Iowa and states in same latitude, and it is +useless to catch them earlier. + +When you see signs of the mink set your trap as near as you can get +to a spring, ditch or running water with a steep bank a foot or more +high. Here dig a hole in the bank 6 or 8 inches inward and low enough +to let the water flow in. Now get a forked stick, cut off one fork +say an inch long, leaving the other 6 or 8 inches long. Sharpen the +end of the long fork and run it through your bait (remember bait must +be fresh) up to the fork. The bait is now fastened on the stick and +run it in the bank back in the hole as far as you can. + +If any mink comes along they will find it. Set your trap near +entrance, but always in the current. Take weeds or sticks, say a foot +long, stick them in the mud, making a lane so the mink must pass over +the trap in order to get the bait. + +If you wish a good scent to draw mink in the spring of the year, +collect the scent bags of the muskrat and preserve them in alcohol, +to which is added 5 cents worth of oil of cumin if you like. I +discarded all scents, however, 30 years ago, finding nothing better +than fresh bait, the more bloody the better. The mink has a good +smeller. For dry land set I go on the same principles, but cover +traps with leaves, grass or fine rubbish. + +This method is very successful for mink, and in fact for almost any +fur bearing animal that travels up and down a creek, says an Illinois +trapper. The first thing to do is to set your trap near the shore so +it will be about two inches under water. Stake the trap or fasten it +to a drag, just as you like. The trap should be a No. 1 1/2 or you +can set two or three No. 1 traps together. Now after the trap is set, +get some weeds or brush and begin at the trap and make a V shaped +pen, leaving an opening where the trap is about ten inches wide if +you are trapping for coon. The brush or weeds, whichever is used, +should extend several feet from the trap in either direction. + +After you are through it should be like illustration No. 1. This, we +will suppose, is for catching animals coming down the creek. Now go +down the creek a few rods and set another trap, but have the narrow +opening of the pen pointing up the creek, as in the illustration No. +2, which will catch an animal traveling up the creek. If these pens +are made right, then a mink will walk into the pens and through the +opening nine times out of ten instead of walking around them. Try +this method once and be convinced. These pens should be about a foot +high. + + [Illustration: NORTHWEST TRAPPER AND MINK.] + +If brush is used it should be fine so it will lie close together so a +mink cannot pass through. If there is danger of the creek washing the +brush away, then fasten it by driving a few small stakes in the +ground to hold it. + +Remember that no bait or scent should be used. If footprints are left +on the ground, then splash water on them. Remember that half of the +pen is on the shore and the other half is in the creek, providing the +creek is a wide one; this depends on the width of the creek. It is a +good idea to trap on both sides of a creek; one is sure then of +catching an animal whether it goes down on one side or the other. +This is the only method I use and it has proven to be successful. + +If a mink is hungry and finds bait that has been left for him he will +pay no attention to human scent, while if he is not hungry he will +not take the bait be it ever so fresh. A mink will sometimes make a +trail in the fresh snow by passing several times over the same route +and then never use that trail again. I have known otter to do the +same. + +I caught two mink last winter in a ditch, setting trap in the water. +The first night I caught a medium sized mink and the third night I +caught a small one, and would have caught every mink that went up +that ditch if it had not frozen up and snowed so during the time that +I could not keep the traps properly set. + +If a person sets out a line of traps in this country, Iowa, while +there is snow on the ground, he is simply going to a great deal of +trouble to give them to some one. + +In trapping mink I watch for signs, and when I locate a mink I +consider it mine and it generally is, while if you bait up a trap +somewhere that you may think is a good place to catch a mink, it +often happens that you may make a good many trips to your trap before +you get a mink, and you may say to yourself that it is human scent +that keeps them away, when perhaps there has not been a mink near the +trap. My advice to young trappers is not to set where a mink may go +but set it where you know he is going, and you will find it no trick +to catch mink. + +I have many different ways of trapping the mink, says a Pennsylvania +trapper, as I set my traps only where I see their signs, and as the +signs are often different, and found in different kinds of places, +one way is not enough. I use Blake & Lamb No. 1 traps mostly for +mink. I never stake a trap down except in water set. On dry land I +fasten to a brush clog. + +If one sets only where he sees the signs, and only sets one or two +traps for each mink, from one to two dozen traps are all that are +required. In fall and early winter I set my traps is natural +enclosures in old drifts, in hollow logs, under roots of trees, etc., +baiting with fresh muskrat, fish, rabbit, chicken, mice or birds, +using fish oil or muskrat musk for scent. + +I do not believe in using mixed scents. In late winter and early +spring I set traps in the same kind of places but without bait, using +the musk of mink for scent. The mink is not looking for food then, +and such scents as fish-oil and muskrat musk are not as good as the +musk of the mink itself. + +The traps should always be covered with some light substance, which +will not look out of place. Never smoke your traps, boil them in +walnut hulls, maple bark or sweet fern. Mink may also be caught by +tying a rabbit in a shunk of a hollow log, blocking one end shut and +setting his trap in the other end. + +When streams are open the shyest mink may be caught by putting +several small live fish on a string and stretching the string in a V +shaped enclosure, in shallow water, setting the trap at the open end. +Mink are easily caught by setting the trap at the foot of a steep +bank which they use. If the trap is properly set, the bank will guide +the mink into the trap. + +There are many other ways of trapping the mink, where the signs are +different, and found in different places. An experienced trapper can +trace a mink for miles, where another person would not see a sign. A +trapper must be able to read signs as he would read a book. As to +human scent, that is all nonsense. The scent will not hang to the +trap or bait more than a couple of hours. + +I find a stream where mink frequent, look for tracks either in or out +of water, close to edge, however, says an Arkansas trapper. Now don't +set your trap on a track thinking you will get a mink, but look for a +slide; mink have a slide same as otter; don't set on slide but go +above slide along bank where water is not over four inches deep. Set +a No. 1 or 1 1/2 trap, cover spring, don't disturb bank but just lay +a small pole, attach your trap chain to this, cover trap and chain +with old wet leaves. Don't take your hands, get a stick and rake the +leaves over it, and do not let any one cause you to think that mink +are not afraid of human scent. Be sure to crowd your trap against +bank as a mink travels close to the bank. This is one way. + +Another is, find a tree that has the earth washed away from the roots +to the water, it being right against the bank, look in the shallow +water around roots for mink tracks, if any, set trap. Again crowd +bank with trap and you may expect mink from under that tree. + +Another way is in looking along the bank of stream you will notice +small holes straight back in bank just under water, extending back +perhaps 4 or 6 inches; a mink did it. Look a little further and you +will see a hole extending back in bank. It may be 6 or 8 inches +across, extending back to 4 to 8 inches. Every time a mink travels +this stream he visits these holes. He dug them to get crabs and small +fish to bed in them. He catches them on his rounds. Now set a trap at +mouth of hole and you can get a mink. + + [Illustration: NORTHERN MINK TRAPPER'S SHANTY.] + +I have used bait. When I do I prefer red bird or woodpecker. Fix your +bait always so mink cannot get at it without crossing or getting over +trap. I believe this is sufficient, however, an old trapper or an +experienced one needs no pointers, he will get the game. + +Two years ago last fall I had a line of traps consisting of a few fox +traps and the rest mink traps, about fifteen in all, says a Maine +trapper. My partner, Dan, was a very young trapper, having caught +only a few mink and skunk. I would rather have trapped alone, but as +I was just starting in I thought I would rather have some one with me +that knew a little more about it. So one November morning we started +out all aglow and pushed on by the cool morning air we set the above +named traps and returned home very tired and weary, but the thought +of bringing back a fox or a nice mink the next day gave me more life, +and I retired happy enough for my day's work. + +The next morning we were up early and made our rounds, but to our +great disappointment we found that we had only a skunk and a striped +one at that, but we didn't lose heart at that but kept right on, now +and then changing a trap or two. + +At last one morning my partner said to me, "I think I have found out +what the trouble is with our trapping." "That's good," I said, "tell +me about it." "Well," went on Dan, "you see all the traps we've got +set on that brook are along the banks. Well now the stream is all +frozen over tight so that nothing can get into the brook from the +outside, so I don't see why a mink coming, up that brook under the +ice--for under the ice they must come or we would see their tracks +somewhere along the bank--can smell the bait on the outside, so what +I think best is this: Take an axe and cut a long hole about 8 inches +wide clear across the brook. Now get some sticks about 3 or 4 feet +long, it all depends on the depth of the water, and drive them into +the mud, beginning at one side of the brook. Now drive until you get +to the middle of the brook, then do the same on the other side, +leaving a place about the width of the trap in the middle. Care must +be taken to get sticks near enough together so he can't get through +only just at the middle. Now if the water is very deep so he can't +get through only just at the middle, we can build up until about to +the surface or say 4 inches from the surface. Now set your trap on +the thing you have built up, and just between the posts, and I think +you will have him." + +This advice was acted upon at once and the next morning we had a fine +mink measuring about 28 inches. The next morning we had another and +in a few mornings another, and so on until we had caught just nine +mink from that place. + +Some trappers say it is hard to catch mink, others say that they are +as easy to catch as muskrats. Now which is right? I believe here in +Washington that where there are lots of quail, rabbits and other wild +fowl that the mink is harder to catch with dead bait that he would be +if game was more scarce. But that ought not to interfere with the +mink being hard to catch. When he can get a warm meal he would be a +fool to take cold and sometimes stale meat. + +I will tell you the way I catch them when they refuse dead bait. +First see that there are no broken links in your trap and that the +jaws close together good, for many trappers never look to this and +thereby lose a valuable pelt, and worst of all it teaches the mink to +be more careful next time. + +Now that you have your traps in order, go to some small stream where +you see fresh mink tracks. Go up until you find there is a log across +the creek, and nine time out of ten you will see where the mink go +under the log, and now there is the place to nab him. First block up +all space under the log so as to force the mink into the water, +stones, stick or anything handy is good to stop their runway. Now set +your trap in about two inches of water. If it is too deep shovel in +some dirt and if too shallow dig a trench. Then fasten your chain to +a sliding pole and your set is complete. Splash some water on the +ground where you have stood and you have a good set that will catch +mink. + +Some say that mink are afraid of iron. Well in some cases they are, +but in others they are not. For instance a mink goes out in search of +food and comes to a wire fence or a railroad track. I do not think he +will shy of that for he is used to the smell of iron and rust at that +place. But jam an old rusty trap in his den and not cover it or set a +rusty trap under old rotten bait. I don't think any mink will get +caught there. I catch as many mink with bait as without it, but when +I bait I bait with strictly fresh bait. Muskrat, quail, rabbits and +fish are all good baits. When I bait with muskrat I use the glands +for scent and fish oil when with fish. But have the traps free from +rust in all cases. + +Go along a stream where the mink frequents and look for holes in the +bank, most of which are made by the muskrat, and set the trap just on +the outside squarely in front of it, says an Iowa trapper, Never set +inside the hole. Now the reason for this is that the mink will very +often just take a peep in and then go on, in which case if the trap +was set inside you would fail to get him. When if it were on the +outside you would stand a chance. Then turn the spring to one side +and set the trap so the mink will step between the jaws and not over +one, for in stepping over them the jaw strikes the foot and throws it +upwards, catching by the end of the toe or failing to catch at all. +Cover trap lightly and carefully, being careful not to get anything +on the jaws to hinder them from closing on the foot. + +Another good set is at the root of a tree which has a small hole in +it. Set the trap the same as at the hole in the bank. Still another +is where the muskrats got an opening through the ice or frozen bank. +Mr. Mink is always looking for such places and is very easily caught +at them. I caught six mink in one week at a place of this kind last +winter, and would have caught still more if the water hadn't spoiled +the place. A good way to kill a mink is to strike him on the end of +the nose and stove towards the eyes. This will kill them quicker than +pounding their heads into a mush, and then the head is easily +skinned. + +In regard to mink being afraid of human scent, that is all nonsense, +says a Maine trapper. They are no more afraid of human scent than a +skunk, and every trapper knows that a skunk is not. Now the way I +catch mink mostly is in ditches and springs and runs at the head of +marshes and around rivers and trout brooks. + + [Illustration: A FEW DAYS CATCH.] + +Find a ditch and pick out a narrow place and where the bank is quite +steep on each side, so that when a mink goes up and down he will have +to walk on the bottom of the ditch. Now get some dry sticks and begin +on each side and stop up the ditch all but in the center, the bigness +of a Blake & Lamb trap, have the sticks ten inches high and put them +very close together, because a mink will go through a very small +place. + +Scoop out a hollow where the trap sets and be sure to set the trap +with spring pointing straight up or down the ditch, because if it +sets crossways and he steps on edge of pan, the jaw will knock the +foot out of the trap. Now don't forget about setting the trap right +and be sure to stop every little place so he will have to go over the +trap. Do a good job and you are sure of your mink. You don't have to +have any bait when you set this way. + +Always keep your eyes open, look into every hole and ditch, and when +you see mink tracks in a place that is the place to put your traps. I +never fail to get them when I find signs of them. For the benefit of +those who haven't a marsh or ditch this is another way that I use, +and know it to be all right. Go along the brook and find the roots of +an old tree in under the bank. Build a coop with sticks, bark or +rocks, cover it over with stuff to make it tight. Make it eight +inches long and wide enough so a trap will fill the entrance. +Remember about the spring pointing in or straight out. Hollow out a +place for trap, and cover trap, chain and all, with fine dry grass or +leaves, and have the trap set level with the earth. Now for the bait, +shoot a red squirrel and cut him open from one end to the other and +hang him up in back end of coop, and you will get them if there are +any around there. + +I have used all kinds of bait including muskrats, fish, birds and +chicken heads, but find squirrel to be the best. I have caught more +mink with this bait than all the others put together. In setting +traps for any animal be sure to set your trap as near as possible +where they are in the habit of traveling. Some set down anywhere and +think they ought to catch everything that comes along. You can read +lots of ways of trapping but you can't learn it all. Experience and +practice is what teaches any one to be a successful trapper, and when +you learn anything yourself you know it to be a fact. + +A mink, like a man, prefers dry footing when traveling up stream, +says a Wisconsin trapper, and will always run along on an old log if +they can, in muddy places or across small bays along the bank of a +stream. Find a place where a mink makes small detours around soft +places and lay a chunk of log about 6 inches in diameter across the +place. Put a trap on the end of it. Arrange it so he will have to +make a long jump on the up stream end to reach hard footing. He will +naturally put his feet as near to the end of the log as he can so as +to make the jump, and you will have him. Use no bait or scent and +leave no signs of your presence. Make the place look natural. + +It was while running a line of traps up Deer Creek last November that +mink got to disturbing my muskrat sets, says an Indiana trapper. Mr. +Mink would wait until the muskrat drowned, then he would spoil the +pelt. As usual, he got in his work rainy nights. One morning I found +a rat pretty badly torn and I began scheming at once to catch the sly +chap. I observed a shallow sand bar out in the middle of the creek, +just in front of my set, so I laid my plans at once. I cut out a +piece of sod one-half foot square, placed it on the sand bar; this +made the water over the sod two inches deep. I now took the muskrat +and placed him in the center of the piece of sod, putting his head +under the water so he would not appear dangerous, as a mink is afraid +of a large muskrat. I fixed him so that one half was under water and +the other half above. I left the fur on, you understand, so as to +make it appear more natural. + +I now took four Newhouse No. 1 traps and placed one on each side of +the rat, staked out in deep water, full length of chain, so anything +caught in one trap would not disturb the others. I covered the traps +well with water soaked leaves, the grass on the sod helping to cover +traps some. You will observe that the traps are well concealed, being +two inches under water. It is well to drive stakes out of sight under +the water also. The next morning the set was not disturbed, but the +following morning, it having rained some that night, I expected +something was doing, and I was not disappointed, for on approaching +the set I saw distinctly outlined beneath the water the dark forms of +a mink and another muskrat, caught in two of the traps. + +One mink I caught by placing an old rotten piece of wood on each side +of a muskrat slide, close to the water. I then covered it over with +the same material, leaving an opening at each end; then I placed a +No. 1 Newhouse trap under the water at the mouth of the tunnel. Mr. +Mink simply had to go through this runway, and of course was caught +and drowned. + + + +CHAPTER XV. + +SALT SET. + +A good many trappers, both amateur and professional, speak of mink +being hard to catch. I can't see it that way, says a Pennsylvania +trapper. Really they are as easy as the water vole or skunk with me. +I simply set all my traps bare, no covering whatever, you clog your +trap when sprung. I lost a good many by so doing, so now I set bare +at all times for both skunk and mink, and I get my share of them. + +I use both bait and blind set; water set I think is the best, that +is, in bitter cold weather when the ice is thick. My way of making, I +call it the ice set, is to take a piece of oil cloth or an old buggy +top cover will do, and put about five pounds of salt in same and sew +up; have it about two inches thick. Don't make it too solid, leave it +loose enough so you can work the most of the salt around the edges to +bed trap in. Now puncture with needle to let fumes of salt through; +cut a hole through the ice at the edge of the water, scrape out hole +to bed salt in; but first put a stone in the hole, and bottom and +side it up with stone to keep the mud from clogging the needle holes. +Now you will wonder what the salt is for; simply to keep the ice from +freezing the hole shut. I had nine of that kind of sets set last +winter and trapped seven mink. The hole will never freeze shut. +Always set trap under water. + +Last winter I complained to my better half that I had better take my +traps out of the run where I trap, as I couldn't make a water set +because my traps froze over night. She said, why don't you put salt +around your traps? That put me to thinking so I got an old piece of +oil cloth and got her to make four for me on the sewing machine; I +put a five pound sack of salt in each one. + +The best place to set is on the inside of a curve. In slack water you +will have to keep moving your set as the water rises and falls. +Undoubtedly that is the best cold water set I have ever tried, and it +has been a complete success with me. + +I use the cubby set for mink. Before severe weather sets in I take +two boards six or eight feet long, lean them against each other V +shape, put water vole carcass (rabbit, chicken or fish is also good) +in center and a trap at each end, about one foot from end. I also +have the hollow log set. It is on the same principle as the cubby +set. A cubby is easily built. You can make them out of stone if you +can't get boards. + + + +CHAPTER XVI. + +LOG AND OTHER SETS. + +My advice to all young trappers is, study the nature and habits of +your game and you will be successful in taking all kinds of fur +bearing animals. Here is one of my methods, writes a trapper, of +taking mink around swamps and lakes where there are shallow springs +that never freeze up. + +The bait house: This should be built in about two inches of water, as +follows: Get some sticks about one foot and a half long and drive one +end in the mud in the shape of a horse shoe, with the tops leaned +together and a door left in one side about three inches wide. The pen +should be a foot wide. Now get some moss, grass or weeds (the moss +from an old rat house is best) and cover over well. Lay a chip or +chunk of wood back of the house and place a piece of fresh muskrat on +it. Set the trap under water on the door with spring pointing to one +side. If there is deep water near by the drowning wire is the best +way to fasten traps, and if water is shallow fasten the trap to a +long stone of about eight or ten pounds weight and place back as far +as the chain will reach from the house. + +There are certain springs around all lakes and swamps that a mink +will visit every time that he comes that way, and if a house is made +at these springs and kept baited every mink can be caught. + +The bait hole: This is a good method to use along creeks and rivers +before the water freezes over in the fall. Find a steep bank a foot +or more high near the water and dig a hole back in a foot deep and +about eight inches high and level with the water. Scoop the dirt out +in front of the hole about two feet wide and two inches under the +water; but don't get the hole so low as to let the water back in. Let +the water come up to the mouth of the hole and set a No. 1 steel trap +square in front of the entrance with the spring pointing away, and +fasten so the mink will drown. + +The log set: Find where an old log lies in the water, stick chunks of +wood in under the log on the bank so the mink will have to pass +around in the water under the log. Set trap, a No. 1, in an inch of +water square under the log and stake out in deep water as far as +possible. If a little bait is sprinkled on each side of the log it +will hasten the capture of the mink. + + [Illustration: THREE LOG SET.] + +The ditch set: Early in the season the mink are great rovers and +explore every ditch, hole or hollow log near the stream, and a trap +set in the ditch in shallow water will often get one. If the ditch is +too wide, drive a row of sticks across and leave an opening for the +trap. Set the trap in the opening and fasten it back as far as +possible. + +The dry log set: Mink have a habit of passing through every hollow +log that lies near the stream and if one can be found like this it is +a good place to catch them all winter. Put some bait back in the log +and set your trap in the entrance. Cover the trap and chain with +powdered rotten wood, sprinkle it all around near the trap, and +fasten to a drag or small pole. + +These five ways are the only methods I use. Sometimes I set a trap +for a few nights where a mink travels around a small bog between the +bog and the bank, and very often get one in these places. + +In setting for mink on land I go about it in this way: + +First, I prepare my traps by boiling in hemlock boughs. Before +setting my trap I dig up the ground with a trap hook. Dig a place two +feet across and set the trap in the middle and cover lightly with +fine leaves, putting some under the trap to keep it from freezing to +the ground. + +Don't be afraid to dig up the ground thoroughly, as a mink will +always stop and investigate such a place. Have your hook long enough +so you will not have to walk on the new ground. Fasten your trap to a +springy bush or brush-drag. + +After the ground freezes you will have to shelter your traps. I have +used the following ways with good success: + +Take two good sized chunks of wood and lay them about six inches +apart. Set a No. 1 1/2 trap between them at each end, put your bait +between the two traps and cover it with small brush and grass. If you +can find an old hollow log it is a good place to set. These two sets +you can use all winter. + +Red squirrel, chicken, rabbit, partridge, muskrat or turtle are all +good baits. + +When you get a mink or rat alive let it bleed around your trap. It is +also a good plan to hitch a string around your bait and drag it from +one trap to another. + +A man that follows the woods has some queer experiences, says a +Pennsylvania trapper. Some eight or ten years ago I was hunting the +Allegheny Mountains. It was in January and we were camped on the Elk +River. There was a light snow on the ground. My trapping partner told +me he would show me how to catch mink with the land set. Taking our +traps we went down the river until we came to some logs that lay +across a hollow. In some places the log was from three to four feet +from the ground, and other places it was not over two feet. Sticks +and limbs had lodged against the log, leaving small openings. In +these open places we set our traps, covering them over with leaves. +We caught several this way. + +Now that will do in West Virginia, but in Pennsylvania in this part +of the state it takes a water set or a deadfall to catch the mink. In +the H-T-T I have seen a great many different opinions in regard to +trapping mink, some claiming they have no trouble in catching mink, +others cannot catch them only with the water set or deadfall. + +Now my experience is that it depends upon where I am. In the sandhill +region of Virginia I could catch mink only with the water set, while +in the mountains they were very easily caught with the land set. Much +depends on what kind of bait is used. I once had a line of eighteen +traps baited with birds and chickens on the Nottoway River, and out +of the eighteen traps, I baited one with the carcass of a muskrat. +Well, I didn't catch any mink in the traps baited with chicken offal +and birds but the trap baited with muskrat won. + + + +CHAPTER XVII. + +POINTS FOR THE YOUNG TRAPPER. + +It is better for the novice to serve a few season's apprenticeship on +the muskrat or skunk before attempting the capture of the shrewder +fur bearing animals. Boys, if you live near a trout brook, a creek, +pond, bog or spring hole, where there are fish, frogs or clams, you +may be sure that any such water is frequented, or at least visited by +mink, though your unpracticed eyes may fail to detect signs of their +presence; and by procuring a few traps and setting them according to +some methods, you can realize a good bit of pocket money every year, +and at the same time have more real pleasure than you get from all +other sports combined. Don't be discouraged if you catch nothing at +first. Visit your traps regularly, keep your eyes open and your wits +about you, be patient and persistent, and success is bound to come in +the end. + +The young trapper's first essay for the mink should be with some sort +of water set--dry sets requiring much greater skill and caution--and +of the many methods employed the following is perhaps the most +effective for one so simply contrived. Having chosen a suitable +location for your trap, preferably some good sized pool with the +water still and not too deep at the edge, and the bank rising so +abruptly that the set will not easily be over-flowed; gather up a few +dead sticks 1 1/2 inch thick and break into stakes about 15 inches +long. Drive these firmly into the ground to form a three-sided pen +four inches wide by eight inches long, the open side at the water's +edge. + +Hollow out a little place for the trap and place with the spring in +line with the entrance, as the animal's foot will then be less likely +to be thrown out by the jaws closing; press the chain down into the +mud out of sight; fix the ring pole, running it well out into deep +water; put the bait (fish, bird or squirrel) in the pen, pinning +securely with a dead stick, lay a few sticks over top of pen, and +cover trap carefully with rotten leaves fished up from the bottom, +dropping on a few pinches of mud, and sticking a row of short twigs +on the outer side to keep them from spreading or floating away. Then +if the water falls the trap will remain nicely covered. + +You now have things pretty well in shape, unless you apprehend +trouble from trap thieves. In such case you cannot conceal your set +too carefully, for a theft may not mean merely the loss of a trap, +but possibly a valuable pelt as well. An excellent mode of +concealment is to cut several fir, pine or hemlock shrubs and stick +them up, as if growing about the pen, which is most likely to attract +the eye. Also throw a scraggily top of some kind into the water over +the ring-pole to hide the catch after drowning. Lastly, rearrange as +naturally as possible the leaves and dead stuff disturbed in your +work, see that nothing has fallen on the trap, spatter a little water +about and your set is complete. + +Another good way is to drop two traps side by side in shallow water, +surround each by a little circle of rocks and hang the bait by a +thread about 12 inches above them. In trying to reach the bait Mr. +Mink runs a good chance of blundering into one of the traps. + +Better yet, get a shallow box having a weatherworn appearance, bore +half inch holes in the sides, and sink in the brook so that the water +coming in through the holes will cover the bottom to a depth of three +inches. Drape the sides with moss and weeds, put in some live trout +and two or three traps along with them, and for those mink that are +so particular as to want to take their food alive, you have a set +that insures them a warm reception. + +Yet another method is to find an over-hanging bank with a narrow +strip of beach between it and the water. Beginning at the water, +drive stakes at an acute angle out to the bank, both up and down the +stream. At the apex of the V shaped fence thus formed place trap +under water. No bait is needed. + +I was speaking of water sets. One more and I will pass on to the land +set, for though an almost endless variety of the former could be +given those presented, with such modifications as will suggest +themselves under varying conditions, will serve as a very good +elementary education for the young trapper. The following was given +me by an old trapper: We were riding together near a brook when he +said, "I set a trap here three years ago, which I have never had an +opportunity to visit, but I will wager you there is a mink in it if +it is to be found." Whereupon he left me for a few minutes, returning +triumphantly with the trap and the skeleton of a mink's foot in the +jaws. + +His way was to go along to shallow rifles, pin a piece of meat to the +bottom, place the trap a few inches below it, and a little above +drive a short line of stakes at right angles to the current to keep +off drift. High water or low, cold weather or warm, you were sure, he +asserted, of every mink that came up or down the stream. And my own +experience has gone very far towards making this claim good. + +Now, all of the foregoing sets are easily made, and may be used by +the novice, after a little practice, with every probability of fair +success, but when we leave the water for dry land greater +difficulties will be encountered. There is a smell about iron which +wild animals are quick to detect and recognize as an indication of +danger. Water destroys this scent, but of course in the land set this +advantage is lost. + +Various directions are given for killing it by smoking or steeping, +but I have found that if the trap be properly covered there is small +need of spending time in this way. And right here let me say that in +dry sets success hinges largely on the skill with which you cover +your trap, especially if bait be used, and it is best to use bait +until one has gained a pretty good idea of the habits of his game. +The bait may be protected by a pen of stakes such as is described in +my first water set, but placed a little back from the water in as dry +a place as possible. + +At the entrance dig a cavity somewhat larger than a trap, with a +shallow trench leading around to one side for chain. Line with fine +sprigs of hemlock, and set trap evenly and firmly. The hemlock will +not only keep trap and chain from freezing down (a thing to be +carefully avoided) but also help to neutralize that tell-tale smell +of metal. Get some moss of a dry, fibrous nature, and containing no +earthly matter to freeze. That found on rocks is generally the best. +Tear out a crescent-shaped piece of a size to half fill trap, and +fitting snugly between pan and jaw and two small pieces to fill in on +back or trigger side of pan--or only one piece, like the first, if +using a trap with spring on the outside. + +If you have done your work properly, the inside of the trap is +completely filled, from jaws to pan, with no chance for anything to +get under the pan, and no wad of batting beneath it (as is used by +some) to become swollen with moisture and prevent its free working. +Now go around trap on the outside with moss, pressing it in so as +nearly to cover jaws, lay a thin leaf over pan, and cover with well +pulverized rotten wood, which may be found in any old stump. + +Lastly, throw on bits of leaf and pinches of dirt until it resembles +as nearly as possible the surrounding ground. Don't be afraid of +covering too heavily, so long as you don't put too much over hinges +of jaws. You want it so that the iron will not be washed bare with +the first rain. But avoid any appearance of a mound, as nothing +arouses an animal's suspicions quicker than this. The chain may be +covered with loose earth and stump dust. Some advise hitching to a +clog, but I generally use a stake, and seldom, ever lose a mink by +footing. But if a green stake is used be careful to smear the exposed +end with mud to remove its fresh appearance, and to secure the bait +use a dead stick invariably. + +Many guide books speak of leaves as a covering for the trap, but the +fact is that dry leaves are something that the mink habitually +avoids, doubtless not liking the rustling sound given out in +traveling over them; hence it is best to use them in land sets +sparingly, and to locate your trap so that the shy fellow will not +have to wallow through a carpeting of them to reach it. + +I have had excellent luck by placing trap at the edge of a bank a +foot or so high, with a good runway underneath. The mink smells the +bait from below and springing up to investigate often lands plump in +the trap, when if he had been afforded the chance for a closer +inspection he might have gone on without troubling it. You may think +this a small thing, but it is just such trifles that circumvent the +shy fellows. + +In making your set do all the work from the back side; also approach +on the same side when visiting. Go no nearer than necessary to see +that everything is all right, and make your stay in the vicinity as +short as possible. If any part of the trap has become exposed cover +with stump dust. A small fir stuck down by the trap with branches +projecting over it will serve as a protection from rain and snow, but +is seldom needed when trap is covered as above described. + +Always be on the lookout for places to set when hunting or fishing. +Let your eyes run along the strips of beach and boggy, peer under +overhanging banks and among piles of drift, and scrutinize closely +every log spanning streams. You will be surprised to find how often +you will hit upon footprints, droppings, holes and runways, the +knowledge of which will be of the utmost value to you when the +trapping season arrives. + + [Illustration: SOME NEW YORK STATE SKINS.] + +If you trap the same section year after year you will get to know the +favorable points so well as to do with half the traps necessary at +the beginning, and get much better results at that; for one trap in +the right place is worth half a dozen, clapped down haphazzard. Some +places are good for one or more mink every year; an old hollow log +near the water, a passageway among roots or under a fallen tree +trunk, a narrow shelf along the face of the bluff, a particular hole +or den--any of these, if kept guarded by a well set trap, may prove a +little bonanza for you every season. In such places it is better to +use no bait, a little fish oil perhaps excepted, as you will then +take unawares many a sly old fellow to whom a morsel of meat, no +matter how cunningly arranged, would be simply a signboard of danger. + +I remember well my first experience at this style of trapping mink. I +noticed what looked to be a well worn little path on the bank of a +stream leading down under a big pile of drift. As an experiment I +placed a trap in this path, and to my delight found a fine mink +waiting me at my next visit. Two more mink followed within a week in +the same place, while a trap nearby carefully set and baited was not +molested. + +I had supposed I knew about all there was to trapping, but this +opened my eyes a bit. I began searching out and setting in similar +places, with the result that my usual catch was doubled that season. +One day on looking into a hole which had rotted into the foot of a +big ash standing on the bank of a stream I saw a small dead fish +lying among the roots as if it had been left there by some creature +that had taken itself off at my approach. I promptly clapped two +traps into the cavity, taking care not to disturb the fish, and soon +after had a mink as a reward for my trouble. + +But the best natural situation I ever discovered was under a high, +overhanging bank--just the sort of roadway every mink coming along +that side of the stream would be sure to choose--at a point where a +willow tree completely blocked the way, except for a narrow passage +perforating its tangled roots. One trap could guard this effectually, +and, as in the trunk of the old ash, it was entirely protected from +snow or rain. Of course a mink could get around the trunk by taking +to the water, but so far as I could judge they seldom did so, and +each year as long as there were any mink in the vicinity I was sure +of several here. + +Mink in fact prefer traveling by land as a rule. For this reason a +trap placed at either end of a log spanning a stream that is too wide +for them to jump forms a most killing set. Drive a few stakes on each +side of a log at the ends to prevent the animal from jumping shore to +one side of trap, and use extra strong traps, as you are likely to +drop on a fox or coon with this set. No bait is needed. In winter any +spring hole, even if near human habitations, offers good +possibilities. Mink visit them to burrow for frogs, and one of two +traps sunk in the mud and shallow water are pretty sure of an +occasional catch. And they are but little trouble to tend as the warm +spring water prevents freezing. + +Now a word about bait. In my opinion the very best bait is fish; +trout, pickerel, shiner or any other fresh fish, being all about +equally good. But salt fish should never be used for mink, though +after being smoked it makes a taking bait for coon. Red squirrel I +consider next to fish. They are plentiful everywhere, and the mink +makes many a meal off of them in the absence of his favorite food. +The oft-quoted chicken's head has invariably failed for me, nor have +I found the flesh of the muskrat such a killer as is claimed by some. +Partridge heads, wood mice and frogs are all good. In the absence of +anything else I have sometimes used English sparrows with fair +results. + +Don't be too generous with your baits. A section of small fish an +inch long is sufficient and much less likely to arouse suspicions +than a larger piece. In carrying bait in your bag, wrap in an old rag +so it will not come in contact with the metal of hatchet or traps, +and wash clean before using. Locate your traps on long, comparatively +straight reaches of the stream, as mink often make short cuts when +traveling and might miss your set entirely if placed on a bend. Above +all, study your game and don't get too knowing to take a pointer. + + + +CHAPTER XVIII. + +PROPER SIZE TRAPS. + +For mink I have found a No. 0 trap, if carefully set with proper +precaution, is as good and lucky as a No. 1 or 1 1/2 trap as some +trappers advocate, writes a Canadian trapper. I used a bunch on a +considerable sized lake one fall. The lake had numerous small creeks +and rivers falling into it. At the junction of these with the lake I +set my traps. They were all No. 0, selected on account of their +lightness, as there was a long carry to get to the lake from a +traveled route and added to the canoe, my gun, blanket and +provisions, the traps were somewhat of a consideration, and I +therefore took the ones of less weight. + +I made two visits to the lake before it froze and got 20 mink, 1 +marten and a female fisher. + +Where I made a water set I saw that the water outside went down +pretty bold, and I always tied a stone to the trap and thus insured +the animal drowning. + +Where I set on land I without fail attached the chain to a tossing +pole, thereby preventing the fur being damaged by mice or the animal +being eaten by some other. + +Some may question the possibility of such small traps being for any +length of time in order as a water set, but I must explain. The lake +was of considerable size and the season the latter part of October. +Such a lake at that season of the year is not subject to any great +fluctuations in the height of the water. + +I may say in conclusion about this particular sized trap, that on +that trapping tour I only lost one mink. I found the trap sprung with +a single toe in the jaws. + +The trap had been a dry set one, and by reading the signs I found +some snow had melted and dripped from an over-hanging branch on to +the junction of the jaws. This had frozen (the trap being in the +shade) and prevented its usual activity. As a consequence it only +caught on as the mink was in the act of lifting his foot, so I was +satisfied it was circumstance and not the fault of the trap that +caused the missing of this mink. + +The No. 1 Blake & Lamb and the Oneida Jump are the ideal mink traps +for me, says an Ohio trapper. When it comes to the snow set the old +Blake & Lamb is second to none. The only fault I find with this trap +is that the chain is not long enough, and this is the fault with +other makes of traps as well. + +When I trap mink I use muskrat carcass for water sets. The favorite +food of the mink is crawfish, frogs and fish. Of course this kind of +bait can't well be found in the trapping season. When I find a sly +old mink I leave off both scent and bait, conceal my traps well under +the bank or places where it likely travels, and just leave the trap +there. If I don't catch it in a week I only go close enough to see +whether there is anything in the trap or not. + +About mink, I think they are queer little animals. Sometimes they are +wise and sometimes they are not. I think the reason some of them are +wise is because they get educated on trap lore by getting their toes +pinched in some poor trap or trap that is carelessly set. I use No. 1 +Newhouse for mink and lost only one mink out of my traps last season, +and I got one of his toes. I cover my traps so there isn't a bit of +chain or trap in sight, and use clean traps free from rust. I use +muskrat musk and mink musk with good success, but common sense is the +best. + +I trapped over the same ground all winter and caught four mink in one +place and three in another. I see that some trappers think that the +scent of the mink will scare them away, but that is the best scent I +could find when trapping mink on rat houses. A large rat will make a +hard fight for a small mink if he has a fair show, and when a mink +gets into a fight he will throw out scent like a skunk. For that +reason I think scent is all right to attract mink to traps. + +Now if you set a trap and use this scent with a little muskrat musk, +when a mink comes along he smells the musk of both mink and rat, and +begins to look around or rather smell around for the remains of the +rat to make a meal on. If you have the trap and scent in the right +place you will have another mink on your list. + +Of course there are a few old fellows that are educated that are +pretty shy of anything that isn't natural to them. These fellows you +can catch in blind sets somewhere along your line. About the best +place I can find to catch mink is where they drill into a rat house +to catch rats. They smell around till they find a soft place on the +south side of the house and dig a hole just large enough to crawl +through, right into the rat's nest. + + + +CHAPTER XIX. + +DEADFALLS. + +First a little pen about a foot square is built of stones and chunks +or by driving stakes close together, leaving one side open. The pen +should be built smaller and tighter than shown in illustration, so +that a small mink or weasel cannot get in from the back or sides. The +pen in illustration is purposely large so that triggers and bait can +be seen, giving the inexperienced deadfall trapper a better idea of +how to set. + +The stakes should be cut about thirty inches long and driven into the +ground some sixteen inches, leaving fourteen, or thereabout above the +ground. Of course if the earth is very solid stakes need not be so +long, but should be so driven that only about fourteen inches remains +above ground. A sapling say four inches in diameter and four feet +long is laid across the end that is open. A sapling that is four or +five inches in diameter and about twelve feet long is now cut for the +"fall." + +Stakes are set so that this pole or fall will play over the short +pole on the ground. These stakes should be driven in pairs; two about +eighteen inches from the end; two about fourteen further back. (See +illustration). The small end of the pole should be split and a stake +driven firmly through it so there will be no danger of the pole +turning and "going off" of its own accord. + +The trap is set by placing the prop (which is only seven inches in +length and half an inch through) between the top log and the short +one on the ground, to which is attached the long trigger, which is +only a stick about the size of the prop, but about twice as long, the +baited end of which extends back into the little pen. The figure 4 +triggers can be used if preferred, but the two piece is as good if +not better. The bait may consist of a piece of fish, chicken, rabbit +or any tough bit of meat so long as it is fresh, and the bloodier the +better. + +An animal on scenting the bait will reach into the trap--the top of +the pen having been carefully covered over--between the logs. When +the animal seizes the bait the long trigger is pulled off of the +upright prop and down comes the fall, killing the animal by its +weight. Skunk, coon, opossum, mink, and in fact nearly all kinds of +animals are easily caught in this trap. The fox is an exception, as +it is rather hard to catch them in deadfalls. + + [Illustration: THE POLE DEADFALL.] + +The more care you take to build the pen tight and strong the less +liable is some animal to tear it down and get the bait from the +outside; also if you will cover the pen with leaves, grass, sticks, +etc., animals will not be so shy of the trap. The triggers are very +simple, the long one being placed on top of the upright, or short +one. The long trigger should have a short prong left or a nail driven +in it to prevent the game from getting the bait off too easy. If you +find it hard to get saplings the right size for a fall, and are too +light, they can be weighted with a pole laid on the "fall." + +The most successful trapper uses some deadfalls as well as steel +traps, especially if trapping for a season at one place. If trapping +season after season in the same locality deadfalls are a great help +for mink that are apparently hard to catch in steel traps readily +take bait from deadfalls and get caught. On the other hand, mink that +refuse to take bait from deadfalls are often caught in blind steel +trap sets. + +The experienced trapper knows that mink travel along creeks, rivers, +swamps, ponds and lakes. Care should be taken in selecting places to +build deadfalls. If there are dens this is a good place to construct +them. If there are many dens so much the better, but one is all that +is required, for a mink is apt to investigate all and will scent +bait. If you are acquainted with the territory you must know some +places where mink frequent. It seems that the nature and habits of +mink are such that although a mink had never traveled that territory +before it would follow about the same course as others, as tracks in +the mud and snow showed. + +To prove this I will mention that some years ago in one deadfall I +caught eight mink in five winters and one in a steel trap, making +nine caught in the five years. This deadfall was built on the bank of +a small stream some 20 feet from the water and near a large sycamore, +under which there was a den, although the trap was some feet from the +entrance to the den. + +The first winter one mink was taken; the second two; the third three; +the fourth two; the fifth one. + +The fourth winter a few weeks after catching one in the deadfall the +trap was down and the bait gone. The trap was rebaited, but for +several trips I found the trap down and bait eaten. I felt sure that +it was a mink, and although I set the triggers easy--I was using the +two piece trigger and upright spindle--the animal continued to get +the bait. + +After a few more visits and the trap down, bait invariably eaten, I +made the pen smaller. The next round I brought a No. 1 Newhouse steel +trap intending to set it if the deadfall was down without making a +catch. Sure enough it was. + +For some trips I had been suspecting that the "bait getter" was a +small mink. I baited and reset the deadfall as usual. Next a small +place was excavated inside the pen and near the bait, on the deadfall +spindle, the trap placed and carefully covered. + + [Illustration: STONE DEADFALLS.] + +The next morning I found everything as I had left it the day before, +but the second round I saw that the "fall" was down before I got near +and on closer approach saw a mink, a very small one, in the steel +trap. + +The mink was small and went inside the pen for the bait. In +constructing deadfalls for mink care must be taken to have the pen +built tight but not too large. + +It is best to build deadfalls in advance of the active trapping +season so that the animals may become accustomed to them, and the +trap weather beaten. Chopping and pounding might tend to drive +animals away. In August, September and October is a good time to +build, for if in new territory signs, if any, should be readily seen. + +While it is best to construct deadfalls in advance of trapping +season, yet the writer has built deadfalls late in November, set and +baited and found mink in them the next morning. If rightly built ten +or a dozen is all a man can make in a day, and like setting steel +traps, a dozen carefully set for mink are worth a hundred set at +haphazzard. + +Mink are great travelers, so that it is needless to set deadfalls +close together. One about every mile is enough unless there should be +many dens and rocky bluffs along the streams, then they could to +advantage be built closer, for other game is liable to be caught. In +this case they should be made a little heavier, as you may catch +opossum, skunk and coon. + +Where one stream empties into another is often a good place to +construct a deadfall. If before selecting your places to build a few +trips are taken along the streams it will be a great help. Where +small streams empty into ponds or lakes or the outlets will be found +ideal places for mink. + +When deadfalls are built before the trapping season it is well to set +them, having the top of the pen covered, just as though the trap was +baited and ready for business. + +Another thing that should be carefully looked after is triggers. Many +cut triggers from green bushes. If this is done, hard wood such as +oak, hickory, dogwood, sugar, beech, etc., is best. The upright +trigger, which is only a straight piece of wood about a half inch +thick, should be slightly rounded so that the spindle will slip off +easier when the animal is at bait. + +It is a good idea to prepare a lot of triggers in advance. For +stone deadfalls the figure 4 must be used as the two piece will not +work--going off entirely too hard. + +Of course we all admit the steel trap is more convenient and +up-to-date, says a New Hampshire trapper. You can make your sets +faster and can change the steel trap from place to place. Of course +the deadfall you cannot. But all this does not signify the deadfall +is no good; they are good, and when mink trapping is consumed the +deadfall is the trap you want. To the trapper who traps in the same +locality every year, when his deadfalls are once built it is only a +few minutes work to put them in shape, then he has got a trap for the +season. + + [Illustration: BOARD OR LOG TRAP.] + +I give a diagram of a deadfall (called here Log Trap) which, when +properly made and baited, there is no such a mink catcher in the trap +line that has yet been devised. This trap requires about twenty +minutes time to make, and for tools a camp hatchet and a good, strong +jack-knife, also a piece of strong string, which all trappers carry. +This trap should be about fifteen inches wide with a pen built with +sticks or pieces of boards driven in the ground. (See diagram.) The +jaws of this trap consist of two pieces of board three inches wide +and about three and a half feet long, resting edgeways one on the +other, held firmly by four posts driven in the ground. The top board +or drop should move easily up and down before weights are put on. The +treadle should be set three inches inside, level with the top of +bottom board. This is a round stick about three-fourths inch through +resting against two pegs driven in the ground. (See diagram.) The +lever should be the same size. Now put your stout string around top +board, then set, pass lever through the string over the cross piece +and latch it in front of the treadle, then put on weights and adjust +to spring, heavy or light as desired. This trap should be set around +old dams or log jams by the brook, baited with fish, muskrat, rabbit +or chicken. + + + +CHAPTER XX. + +STEEL TRAPS. + +For generations there will be good trapping sections in parts of the +North, West and South, so that the hardy trapper will continue to +reap a harvest of pelts and fur. + +Mink are widely distributed over America, and while their numbers, in +some sections, have been reduced by the high prices and close +trapping and hunting, they are found much more frequently in the +settled districts than those who give trapping no attention or +thought. + +In the rapid development of the country the steel trap has played a +wonderful part. They have subdued the monster bear and hungry wolf, +as well as caught millions of the smaller fur bearing animals, adding +largely to the annual income of the hardy trapper. + +Steel traps have been in use for more than fifty years, but for some +time after they were invented they were so expensive that they were +not generally used. Of recent years they have become cheaper and +their use has become general. Trappers will be found using them in +large numbers whether in the Far North for marten, fox, beaver, etc., +or in the South and Southwest after coon, otter, and smaller fur +bearing animals. Professional trappers use generally from 50 to 300 +steel traps, depending upon what game they are after. + + [Illustration: A GOOD FASTENING.] + +Steel traps are manufactured in various sizes. The smallest, No. 0, +is used for gophers, rats, etc., while the largest, No. 6, is for +grizzly bear, and will hold him. The No. 1 1/2 is known as the Mink +trap. The spread of jaws is 4 7/8 inches. The No. 1 spread of jaws 4 +inches is also adapted for mink. + +An old and experienced trapper who has spent many years in the +forests of Northern Canada has used the No. 0 with remarkably good +success. There is no doubt but that the smallest size will hold the +mink in the Newhouse brand, and we are alluding to the Newhouse +manufactured by the Oneida Community, Ltd., Oneida, New York, as it +is acknowledged to be the best trap in the world. + +The fastening of traps for any animal has much to do with the +trapper's success. Traps fastened to something solid are not so apt +to hold the game. If only caught by a toe or two and the animal jumps +around the toes are apt to be pulled off. Traps should be fastened +far out in the water, when trapping for mink, if the weather is not +so cold that the water is frozen. In that case the fastening should +be to a "bushy" bush, or at least to something that will give with +every pull and jerk of the animal. + +As many mink trappers devote more or less time to trapping other fur +bearing animals, a description of the various Newhouse traps, telling +the animal or animals each size is adapted to, etc., will no doubt be +of interest. + + [Illustration: NEWHOUSE NO. 0 TRAP] + +Spread of Jaws, 3 1/2 inches. This, the smallest trap made, is used +mostly for catching the gopher, a little animal which is very +troublesome to western farmers, and also rats and other vermin. It +has a sharp grip and will hold larger game, but should not be +overtaxed. + + [Illustration: NEWHOUSE NO. 1 TRAP] + +Spread of Jaws, 4 inches. This Trap is used for catching muskrats and +other small animals, and sold in greater numbers than any other size. +Its use is well understood by professional trappers and it is the +most serviceable size for catching skunks, weasels, rats and such +other animals as visit poultry houses and barns. + + [Illustration: NEWHOUSE NO. 81 TRAP] + +Spread of Jaws, 4 inches. Occasionally animals free themselves from +traps by gnawing their legs off just below the trap jaws, where the +flesh is numb from pressure. Various forms of traps have been +experimented with to obviate this difficulty. The Webbed Jaws shown +above have proved very successful in this respect. + +Noting the cross-section of the jaws, as illustrated at the left, it +is plain the animal can only gnaw off its leg at a point quite a +distance below the meeting edges. The flesh above the point of +amputation and below the jaws will swell and make it impossible to +pull the leg stump out of the trap. + +The No. 81 Trap corresponds in size with the regular No. 1 Newhouse. + + [Illustration: NEWHOUSE NO. 91 TRAP] + +Spread of Jaws--91, 5 1/4 inches; 91 1/2, 6 1/4 inches. The double +jaws take an easy and firm grip so high up on the muskrat that he can +not twist out. A skunk cannot gnaw out either. + +These traps are especially good for Muskrat, Mink, Skunk and Raccoon. + +All parts of the No. 91 except the jaws are the same size as the +regular No. 1 Newhouse, while the 91 1/2 corresponds to the regular +No. 1 1/2. + + [Illustration: NEWHOUSE NO. 1 1/2 TRAP] + +Spread of Jaws, 4 7/8 inches. This size is called the Mink Trap. It +is, however, suitable for catching the Woodchuck, Skunk, etc. +Professional trappers often use it for catching Foxes. It is very +convenient in form and is strong and reliable. + + [Illustration: NEWHOUSE NO. 2 TRAP] + +Spread of Jaws, 4 7/8 inches. The No. 2 Trap is called the Fox Trap. +Its spread of jaws is the same as the No. 1 1/2 but having two +springs it is, of course, much stronger. + + [Illustration: NEWHOUSE NO. 3 TRAP] + +Spread of Jaws, 5 1/2 inches. This, the Otter Trap, is very powerful. +It will hold almost any game smaller than a bear. + + [Illustration: NEWHOUSE NO. 4 TRAP] + +Spread of Jaws, 6 1/2 inches. This is the regular form of Beaver +Trap. It is longer than the No. 3 Trap, and has one inch greater +spread of jaws. It is a favorite with those who trap and hunt for a +living in the Northwest and Canada. It is also extensively used for +trapping the smaller Wolves and Coyotes in the western stock raising +regions. + + [Illustration: NEWHOUSE NO. 2 1/2 TRAP] + +Spread of Jaws, 6 1/2 inches. In some localities the Otter grows to +an unusual size, with great proportionate strength, so that the +manufacturers have been led to produce an especially large and strong +pattern. All the parts are heavier than the No. 2 1/2, the spread of +jaws greater and the spring stiffer. + + [Illustration: NEWHOUSE NO. 3 1/2 TRAP] + +Spread of Jaws, 5 inches. The above cut represents a Single Spring +Otter Trap. It is used more especially for catching Otter on their +"slides." For this purpose a thin, raised plate of steel is adjusted +to the pan so that when the trap is set the plate will be a trifle +higher than the teeth on the jaws. The spring is very powerful, being +the same as used on the No. 4 Newhouse Trap. The raised plate can be +readily detached if desired, making the trap one of general utility. + + [Illustration: NEWHOUSE NO. 21 1/2 TRAP] + +Single Spring. Same as No. 2 1/2 but without Teeth or Raised Plate. + +No. 31 1/2 NEWHOUSE TRAP. + +Single Spring. Same as No. 3 1/2 but without Teeth or Raised Plate. + +Spread of Jaws--No. 21 1/2, 5 1/4 inches; No. 31 1/2, 6 1/2 inches. +These Traps are the largest smooth jaw, single spring sizes that are +made. Professional trappers will find these especially valuable when +on a long trapping line, as they are more compact and easier to +secrete than the large double spring traps. The springs are made +extra heavy. + +Note.--The 21 1/2 is practically a single spring No. 3 and the 31 1/2 +a single spring No. 4. + + [Illustration: NEWHOUSE NO. 14 TRAP] + +Spread of Jaws, 6 1/2 inches. This Trap is the same in size as the +No. 4 Beaver, but has heavier and stiffer springs and offset jaws, +which allow the springs to raise higher when the animal's leg is in +the trap, and is furnished with teeth sufficiently close to prevent +the animal from pulling its foot out. + + [Illustration: CLUTCH DETACHABLE TRAP] + +Clutch Detachable--Trap can be used with or without it. + +PATENTED. + +Spread of Jaws, No. 23, 5 1/2 inches; No. 24, 6 1/4 inches. The +inventor of this attachment claims to have had wonderful success with +it in taking Beaver. The trap should be set with the clutch end +farthest from shore. The beaver swims with his fore legs folded back +against his body, and when he feels his breast touch the bank he puts +them down. The position of the trap can be so calculated that he will +put his fore legs in the trap, when the clutch will seize him across +the body and hold him securely. + + [Illustration: NEWHOUSE NO. 4 1/2 TRAP] + +In response to a demand for a new model of the Newhouse Trap +especially adapted to catching wolves, the manufacturers have +perfected a trap which is numbered 4 1/2 and is called the "Newhouse +Wolf Trap." + +This trap has eight inches spread of jaw, with other parts in +proportion, and is provided with a pronged "drag," a heavy snap and +an extra heavy steel swivel and chain, five feet long, warranted to +hold 2,000 pounds. The trap complete with chain and "drag" weighs +about nine pounds. + + [Illustration: NEWHOUSE NO. 50 TRAP] + +Spread of Jaws, 9 inches. This trap is intended for catching small +sized Bears. In design it is exactly like the standard No. 5 Bear +Trap, only that the parts are all somewhat smaller. Weight, 11 1/4 +pounds each. + + [Illustration: NEWHOUSE NO. 150 TRAP] + +Spread of Jaws, 9 inches. This trap is identical with No. 5 excepting +that the jaws are offset, making a space five-eighths inch between +them. This allows the springs to come up higher when the bear's foot +is in the trap, and thus secure a better grip. Also there is less +chance of breaking the bones of the foot. Weight, 11 1/4 pounds each. + + [Illustration: NEWHOUSE NO. 5 TRAP] + +Spread of Jaws, 11 3/4 inches. This trap weighs nineteen pounds. It +is used for taking the common Black Bear and is furnished with a very +strong chain. + + [Illustration: NEWHOUSE NO. 15 TRAP] + +Spread of Jaws, 11 3/4 inches. To meet the views of certain hunters +whose judgment is respected, the manufacturers designed a style of +jaw for the No. 5 trap, making an offset of 3/4 of an inch, so as to +allow the springs to come up higher when the bear's leg is in the +trap. This gives the spring a better grip. Those wishing this style +should specify "No. 15." + + [Illustration: NEWHOUSE NO. 6 TRAP] + +Spread of Jaws, 16 inches. Weight, complete, 42 pounds. This is the +strongest trap made. We have never heard of anything getting out of +it when once caught. It is used to catch lions and tigers, as well as +the great Grizzly Bears of the Rocky Mountains. + + [Illustration: BEAR CHAIN CLEVIS AND BOLT] + +This cut illustrates Bear Chain Clevis and Bolt, intended as a +substitute for the ring on the end of the trap chain, when desired. + +With this clevis a loop can be made around any small log or tree +without the trouble of cutting to fit the ring. The chain is made +five feet long, suitable for any clog, and the prices of bear traps +fitted with it are the same as with the regular short chain and ring. + + [Illustration: TRAP SETTING CLAMP] + +Every trapper knows how difficult it is to set a large trap alone in +the woods, especially in cold weather, when the fingers are stiff, +and the difficulty is greatly increased when one has to work in a +boat. One of these clamps applied to each spring will, by a few turns +of the thumb-screws, bend the springs to their places, so that the +pan may be adjusted without difficulty. No. 4 Clamp can be used on +any trap smaller than No. 4 1 /2. No. 5 and 6 are strong clamps, +carefully made and especially adapted to setting the large traps Nos. +4 1/2 to 6. They dispense with the inconvenient and dangerous use of +levers. With them one can easily set these powerful traps. These +clamps are also useful about camp for other purposes. + + + +END OF MINK TRAPPING + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg's Mink Trapping, by A. R. (Arthur Robert) Harding + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MINK TRAPPING *** + +***** This file should be named 34093.txt or 34093.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/3/4/0/9/34093/ + +Produced by Linda M. Everhart, Blairstown, Missouri + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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