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+***The Project Gutenberg Etext of Notes of a Vanished Summer***
+#27 in our series by William Dean Howells
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+Title: Notes of a Vanished Summer
+
+Author: William Dean Howells
+
+Release Date: August, 2002  [Etext #3380]
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+
+
+LITERATURE AND LIFE--Staccato Notes of a Vanished Summer
+
+by William Dean Howells
+
+
+
+
+STACCATO NOTES OF A VANISHED SUMMER
+
+
+Monday afternoon the storm which had been beating up against the
+southeasterly wind nearly all day thickened, fold upon fold, in the
+northwest.  The gale increased, and blackened the harbor and whitened the
+open sea beyond, where sail after sail appeared round the reef of
+Whaleback Light, and ran in a wild scamper for the safe anchorages
+within.
+
+Since noon cautious coasters of all sorts had been dropping in with a
+casual air; the coal schooners and barges had rocked and nodded knowingly
+to one another, with their taper and truncated masts, on the breast of
+the invisible swell; and the flock of little yachts and pleasure-boats
+which always fleck the bay huddled together in the safe waters.  The
+craft that came scurrying in just before nightfall were mackerel seiners
+from Gloucester.  They were all of one graceful shape and one size; they
+came with all sail set, taking the waning light like sunshine on their
+flying-jibs, and trailing each two dories behind them, with their seines
+piled in black heaps between the thwarts.  As soon as they came inside
+their jibs weakened and fell, and the anchor-chains rattled from their
+bows.  Before the dark hid them we could have counted sixty or seventy
+ships in the harbor, and as the night fell they improvised a little
+Venice under the hill with their lights, which twinkled rhythmically,
+like the lamps in the basin of St. Mark, between the Maine and New
+Hampshire coasts.
+
+There was a dash of rain, and we thought the storm had begun; but that
+ended it, as so many times this summer a dash of rain has ended a storm.
+The morning came veiled in a fog that kept the shipping at anchor through
+the day; but the next night the weather cleared.  We woke to the clucking
+of tackle, and saw the whole fleet standing dreamily out to sea.  When
+they were fairly gone, the summer, which had held aloof in dismay of the
+sudden cold, seemed to return and possess the land again; and the
+succession of silver days and crystal nights resumed the tranquil round
+which we thought had ceased.
+
+
+
+
+I.
+
+One says of every summer, when it is drawing near its end, "There never
+was such a summer"; but if the summer is one of those which slip from the
+feeble hold of elderly hands, when the days of the years may be reckoned
+with the scientific logic of the insurance tables and the sad conviction
+of the psalmist, one sees it go with a passionate prescience of never
+seeing its like again such as the younger witness cannot know.  Each new
+summer of the few left must be shorter and swifter than the last: its
+Junes will be thirty days long, and its Julys and Augusts thirty-one, in
+compliance with the almanac; but the days will be of so small a compass
+that fourteen of them will rattle round in a week of the old size like
+shrivelled peas in a pod.
+
+To be sure they swell somewhat in the retrospect, like the same peas put
+to soak; and I am aware now of some June days of those which we first
+spent at Kittery Point this year, which were nearly twenty-four hours
+long.  Even the days of declining years linger a little here, where there
+is nothing to hurry them, and where it is pleasant to loiter, and muse
+beside the sea and shore, which are so netted together at Kittery Point
+that they hardly know themselves apart.  The days, whatever their length,
+are divided, not into hours, but into mails.  They begin, without regard
+to the sun, at eight o'clock, when the first mail comes with a few
+letters and papers which had forgotten themselves the night before.  At
+half-past eleven the great mid-day mail arrives; at four o'clock there is
+another indifferent and scattering post, much like that at eight in the
+morning; and at seven the last mail arrives with the Boston evening
+papers and the New York morning papers, to make you forget any letters
+you were looking for.  The opening of the mid-day mail is that which most
+throngs with summer folks the little postoffice under the elms, opposite
+the weather-beaten mansion of Sir William Pepperrell; but the evening
+mail attracts a large and mainly disinterested circle of natives.  The
+day's work on land and sea is then over, and the village leisure, perched
+upon fences and stayed against house walls, is of a picturesqueness which
+we should prize if we saw it abroad, and which I am not willing to slight
+on our own ground.
+
+
+
+
+II.
+
+The type is mostly of a seafaring brown, a complexion which seems to be
+inherited rather than personally acquired; for the commerce of Kittery
+Point perished long ago, and the fishing fleets that used to fit out from
+her wharves have almost as long ago passed to Gloucester.  All that is
+left of the fishing interest is the weir outside which supplies, fitfully
+and uncertainly, the fish shipped fresh to the nearest markets.  But in
+spite of this the tint taken from the suns and winds of the sea lingers
+on the local complexion; and the local manner is that freer and easier
+manner of people who have known other coasts, and are in some sort
+citizens of the world.  It is very different from the inland New England
+manner; as different as the gentle, slow speech of the shore from the
+clipped nasals of the hill-country.  The lounging native walk is not the
+heavy plod taught by the furrow, but has the lurch and the sway of the
+deck in it.
+
+Nothing could be better suited to progress through the long village,
+which rises and sinks beside the shore like a landscape with its sea-legs
+on; and nothing could be more charming and friendly than this village.
+It is quite untainted as yet by the summer cottages which have covered so
+much of the coast, and made it look as if the aesthetic suburbs of New
+York and Boston had gone ashore upon it.  There are two or three old-
+fashioned summer hotels; but the summer life distinctly fails to
+characterize the place.  The people live where their forefathers have
+lived for two hundred and fifty years; and for the century since the
+baronial domain of Sir William was broken up and his possessions
+confiscated by the young Republic, they have dwelt in small red or white
+houses on their small holdings along the slopes and levels of the low
+hills beside the water, where a man may pass with the least inconvenience
+and delay from his threshold to his gunwale.  Not all the houses are
+small; some are spacious and ambitious to be of ugly modern patterns; but
+most are simple and homelike.  Their gardens, following the example of
+Sir William's vanished pleasaunce, drop southward to the shore, where the
+lobster-traps and the hen-coops meet in unembarrassed promiscuity.  But
+the fish-flakes which once gave these inclines the effect of terraced
+vineyards have passed as utterly as the proud parterres of the old
+baronet; and Kittery Point no longer "makes" a cod or a haddock for the
+market.
+
+Three groceries, a butcher shop, and a small variety store study the few
+native wants; and with a little money one may live in as great real
+comfort here as for much in a larger place.  The street takes care of
+itself; the seafaring housekeeping of New England is not of the
+insatiable Dutch type which will not spare the stones of the highway; but
+within the houses are of almost terrifying cleanliness.  The other day I
+found myself in a kitchen where the stove shone like oxidized silver; the
+pump and sink were clad in oilcloth as with blue tiles; the walls were
+papered; the stainless floor was strewn with home-made hooked and braided
+rugs; and I felt the place so altogether too good for me that I pleaded
+to stay there for the transaction of my business, lest a sharper sense of
+my unfitness should await me in the parlor.
+
+The village, with scarcely an interval of farm-lands, stretches four
+miles along the water-side to Portsmouth; but it seems to me that just at
+the point where our lines have fallen there is the greatest concentration
+of its character.  This has apparently not been weakened, it has been
+accented, by the trolley-line which passes through its whole length, with
+gayly freighted cars coming and going every half-hour.  I suppose they
+are not longer than other trolley-cars, but they each affect me like a
+procession.  They are cheerful presences by day, and by night they light
+up the dim, winding street with the flare of their electric bulbs, and
+bring to the country a vision of city splendor upon terms that do not
+humiliate or disquiet.  During July and August they are mostly filled
+with summer folks from a great summer resort beyond us, and their lights
+reveal the pretty fashions of hats and gowns in all the charm of the
+latest lines and tints.  But there is an increasing democracy in these
+splendors, and one might easily mistake a passing excursionist from some
+neighboring inland town, or even a local native with the instinct of
+clothes, for a social leader from York Harbor.
+
+With the falling leaf, the barge-like open cars close up into well-warmed
+saloons, and falter to hourly intervals in their course.  But we are
+still far from the falling leaf; we are hardly come to the blushing or
+fading leaf.  Here and there an impassioned maple confesses the autumn;
+the ancient Pepperrell elms fling down showers of the baronet's fairy
+gold in the September gusts; the sumacs and the blackberry vines are
+ablaze along the tumbling black stone walls; but it is still summer, it
+is still summer: I cannot allow otherwise!
+
+
+
+
+III.
+
+The other day I visited for the first time (in the opulent indifference
+of one who could see it any time) the stately tomb of the first
+Pepperrell, who came from Cornwall to these coasts, and settled finally
+at Kittery Point.  He laid there the foundations of the greatest fortune
+in colonial New England, which revolutionary New England seized and
+dispersed, as I cannot but feel, a little ruthlessly.  In my personal
+quality I am of course averse to all great fortunes; and in my civic
+capacity I am a patriot.  But still I feel a sort of grace in wealth a
+century old, and if I could now have my way, I would not have had their
+possessions reft from those kindly Pepperrells, who could hardly help
+being loyal to the fountain of their baronial honors.  Sir William,
+indeed; had helped, more than any other man, to bring the people who
+despoiled him to a national consciousness.  If he did not imagine, he
+mainly managed the plucky New England expedition against Louisbourg at
+Cape Breton a half century before the War of Independence; and his
+splendid success in rending that stronghold from the French taught the
+colonists that they were Americans, and need be Englishmen no longer than
+they liked.  His soldiers were of the stamp of all succeeding American
+armies, and his leadership was of the neighborly and fatherly sort
+natural to an amiable man who knew most of them personally.  He was
+already the richest man in America, and his grateful king made him a
+baronet; but he came contentedly back to Kittery, and took up his old
+life in a region where he had the comfortable consideration of an
+unrivalled magnate.  He built himself the dignified mansion which still
+stands across the way from the post-office on Kittery Point, within an
+easy stone's cast of the far older house, where his father wedded Margery
+Bray, when he came, a thrifty young Welsh fisherman, from the Isles of
+Shoals, and established his family on Kittery.  The Bray house had been
+the finest in the region a hundred years before the Pepperrell mansion
+was built; it still remembers its consequence in the panelling and
+wainscoting of the large, square parlor where the young people were
+married and in the elaborate staircase cramped into the little, square
+hall; and the Bray fortune helped materially to swell the wealth of the
+Pepperrells.
+
+I do not know that I should care now to have a man able to ride thirty
+miles on his own land; but I do not mind Sir William's having done it
+here a hundred and fifty years ago; and I wish the confiscations had left
+his family, say, about a mile of it.  They could now, indeed, enjoy it
+only in the collateral branches, for all Sir William's line is extinct.
+The splendid mansion which he built his daughter is in alien hands, and
+the fine old house which Lady Pepperrell built herself after his death
+belongs to the remotest of kinsmen.  A group of these, the descendants of
+a prolific sister of the baronet, meets every year at Kittery Point as
+the Pepperrell Association, and, in a tent hard by the little grove of
+drooping spruces which shade the admirable renaissance cenotaph of Sir
+William's father, cherishes the family memories with due American
+"proceedings."
+
+
+
+
+IV.
+
+The meeting of the Pepperrell Association was by no means the chief
+excitement of our summer.  In fact, I do not know that it was an
+excitement at all; and I am sure it was not comparable to the presence of
+our naval squadron, when for four days the mighty dragon and kraken
+shapes of steel, which had crumbled the decrepit pride of Spain in the
+fight at Santiago, weltered in our peaceful waters, almost under my
+window.
+
+I try now to dignify them with handsome epithets; but while they were
+here I had moments of thinking they looked like a lot of whited
+locomotives, which had broken through from some trestle, in a recent
+accident, and were waiting the offices of a wrecking-train.  The poetry
+of the man-of-war still clings to the "three-decker out of the foam" of
+the past; it is too soon yet for it to have cast a mischievous halo about
+the modern battle-ship; and I looked at the New York and the Texas and
+the Brooklyn and the rest, and thought, "Ah, but for you, and our need of
+proving your dire efficiency, perhaps we could have got on with the
+wickedness of Spanish rule in Cuba, and there had been no war!"  Under my
+reluctant eyes the great, dreadful spectacle of the Santiago fight
+displayed itself in peaceful Kittery Harbor.  I saw the Spanish ships
+drive upon the reef where a man from Dover, New Hampshire, was camping in
+a little wooden shanty unconscious; and I heard the dying screams of the
+Spanish sailors, seethed and scalded within the steel walls of their own
+wicked war-kettles.
+
+As for the guns, battle or no battle, our ships, like "kind Lieutenant
+Belay of the 'Hot Cross-Bun'," seemed to be "banging away the whole day
+long."  They set a bad example to the dreamy old fort on the Newcastle
+shore, which, till they came, only recollected itself to salute the
+sunrise and sunset with a single gun; but which, under provocation of the
+squadron, formed a habit of firing twenty or thirty times at noon.
+
+Other martial shows and noises were not so bad.  I rather liked seeing
+the morning drill of the marines and the bluejackets on the iron decks,
+with the lively music that went with it.  The bugle calls and the bells
+were charming; the week's wash hung out to dry had its picturesqueness by
+day, and by night the spectral play of the search-lights along the waves
+and shores, and against the startled skies, was even more impressive.
+There was a band which gave us every evening the airs of the latest coon-
+songs, and the national anthems which we have borrowed from various
+nations; and yes, I remember the white squadron kindly, though I was so
+glad to have it go, and let us lapse back into our summer silence and
+calm.  It was (I do not mind saying now) a majestic sight to see those
+grotesque monsters gather themselves together, and go wallowing, one
+after another, out of the harbor, and drop behind the ledge of Whaleback
+Light, as if they had sunk into the sea.
+
+
+V.
+
+A deep peace fell upon us when they went, and it must have been at this
+most receptive moment, when all our sympathies were adjusted in a mood of
+hospitable expectation, that Jim appeared.
+
+Jim was, and still is, and I hope will long be, a cat; but unless one has
+lived at Kittery Point, and realized, from observation and experience,
+what a leading part cats may play in society, one cannot feel the full
+import of this fact.  Not only has every house in Kittery its cat, but
+every house seems to have its half-dozen cats, large, little, old, and
+young; of divers colors, tending mostly to a dark tortoise-shell.  With a
+whole ocean inviting to the tragic rite, I do not believe there is ever a
+kitten drowned in Kittery; the illimitable sea rather employs itself in
+supplying the fish to which "no cat's averse," but which the cats of
+Kittery demand to have cooked.  They do not like raw fish; they say it
+plainly, and they prefer to have the bones taken out for them, though
+they do not insist upon that point.
+
+At least, Jim never did so from the time when he first scented the odor
+of delicate young mackerel in the evening air about our kitchen, and
+dropped in upon the maids there with a fine casual effect of being merely
+out for a walk, and feeling it a neighborly thing to call.  He had on a
+silver collar, engraved with his name and surname, which offered itself
+for introduction like a visiting-card.  He was too polite to ask himself
+to the table at once, but after he had been welcomed to the family
+circle, he formed the habit of finding himself with us at breakfast and
+supper, when he sauntered in like one who should say, "Did I smell fish?"
+but would not go further in the way of hinting.
+
+He had no need to do so.  He was made at home, and freely invited to our
+best not only in fish, but in chicken, for which he showed a nice taste,
+and in sweetcorn, for which he revealed a most surprising fondness when
+it was cut from the cob for him.  After he had breakfasted or supped he
+gracefully suggested that he was thirsty by climbing to the table where
+the water-pitcher stood and stretching his fine feline head towards it.
+When he had lapped up his saucer of water; he marched into the parlor,
+and riveted the chains upon our fondness by taking the best chair and
+going to sleep in it in attitudes of Egyptian, of Assyrian majesty.
+His arts were few or none; he rather disdained to practise any; he
+completed our conquest by maintaining himself simply a fascinating
+presence; and perhaps we spoiled Jim.  It is certain that he came under
+my window at two o'clock one night, and tried the kitchen door.  It
+resisted his efforts to get in, and then Jim began to use language which
+I had never heard from the lips of a cat before, and seldom from the lips
+of a man.  I will not repeat it; enough that it carried to the listener
+the conviction that Jim was not sober.  Where he could have got his
+liquor in the totally abstinent State of Maine I could not positively
+say, but probably of some sailor who had brought it from the neighboring
+New Hampshire coast.  There could be no doubt, however, that Jim was
+drunk; and a dash from the water-pitcher seemed the only thing for him.
+The water did not touch him, but he started back in surprise and grief,
+and vanished into the night without a word.
+
+His feelings must have been deeply wounded, for it was almost a week
+before he came near us again; and then I think that nothing but young
+lobster would have brought him.  He forgave us finally, and made us of
+his party in the quarrel he began gradually to have with the large yellow
+cat of a next-door neighbor.  This culminated one afternoon, after a long
+exchange of mediaeval defiance and insult, in a battle upon a bed of rag-
+weed, with wild shrieks of rage, and prodigious feats of ground and lofty
+tumbling.  It seemed to our anxious eyes that Jim was getting the worst
+of it; but when we afterwards visited the battle-field and picked up
+several tufts of blond fur, we were in a doubt which was afterwards
+heightened by Jim's invasion of the yellow cat's territory, where he
+stretched himself defiantly upon the grass and seemed to be challenging
+the yellow cat to come out and try to put him off the premises.
+
+
+
+
+ETEXT EDITOR'S BOOKMARKS:
+
+Ambitious to be of ugly modern patterns. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
+Here and there an impassioned maple confesses the autumn . . . . . . . .
+Houses are of almost terrifying cleanliness. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
+Leading part cats may play in society. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
+Picturesqueness which we should prize if we saw it abroad. . . . . . . .
+Has the lurch and the sway of the deck in it.. . . . . . . . . . . . . .
+
+
+
+
+
+End of this Project Gutenberg Etext of Notes of a Vanished Summer,
+by William Dean Howells
+
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+The Project Gutenberg Etext of Notes of a Vanished Summer, by Howells
+#27 in our series by William Dean Howells
+
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+Title: Notes of a Vanished Summer
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+Author: William Dean Howells
+
+Release Date: August, 2002  [Etext #3380]
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+The Project Gutenberg Etext of Notes of a Vanished Summer, by Howells
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+
+
+
+LITERATURE AND LIFE--Staccato Notes of a Vanished Summer
+
+by William Dean Howells
+
+
+
+STACCATO NOTES OF A VANISHED SUMMER
+
+
+Monday afternoon the storm which had been beating up against the
+southeasterly wind nearly all day thickened, fold upon fold, in the
+northwest.  The gale increased, and blackened the harbor and whitened the
+open sea beyond, where sail after sail appeared round the reef of
+Whaleback Light, and ran in a wild scamper for the safe anchorages
+within.
+
+Since noon cautious coasters of all sorts had been dropping in with a
+casual air; the coal schooners and barges had rocked and nodded knowingly
+to one another, with their taper and truncated masts, on the breast of
+the invisible swell; and the flock of little yachts and pleasure-boats
+which always fleck the bay huddled together in the safe waters.  The
+craft that came scurrying in just before nightfall were mackerel seiners
+from Gloucester.  They were all of one graceful shape and one size; they
+came with all sail set, taking the waning light like sunshine on their
+flying-jibs, and trailing each two dories behind them, with their seines
+piled in black heaps between the thwarts.  As soon as they came inside
+their jibs weakened and fell, and the anchor-chains rattled from their
+bows.  Before the dark hid them we could have counted sixty or seventy
+ships in the harbor, and as the night fell they improvised a little
+Venice under the hill with their lights, which twinkled rhythmically,
+like the lamps in the basin of St. Mark, between the Maine and New
+Hampshire coasts.
+
+There was a dash of rain, and we thought the storm had begun; but that
+ended it, as so many times this summer a dash of rain has ended a storm.
+The morning came veiled in a fog that kept the shipping at anchor through
+the day; but the next night the weather cleared.  We woke to the clucking
+of tackle, and saw the whole fleet standing dreamily out to sea.  When
+they were fairly gone, the summer, which had held aloof in dismay of the
+sudden cold, seemed to return and possess the land again; and the
+succession of silver days and crystal nights resumed the tranquil round
+which we thought had ceased.
+
+
+
+
+I.
+
+One says of every summer, when it is drawing near its end, "There never
+was such a summer"; but if the summer is one of those which slip from the
+feeble hold of elderly hands, when the days of the years may be reckoned
+with the scientific logic of the insurance tables and the sad conviction
+of the psalmist, one sees it go with a passionate prescience of never
+seeing its like again such as the younger witness cannot know.  Each new
+summer of the few left must be shorter and swifter than the last: its
+Junes will be thirty days long, and its Julys and Augusts thirty-one, in
+compliance with the almanac; but the days will be of so small a compass
+that fourteen of them will rattle round in a week of the old size like
+shrivelled peas in a pod.
+
+To be sure they swell somewhat in the retrospect, like the same peas put
+to soak; and I am aware now of some June days of those which we first
+spent at Kittery Point this year, which were nearly twenty-four hours
+long.  Even the days of declining years linger a little here, where there
+is nothing to hurry them, and where it is pleasant to loiter, and muse
+beside the sea and shore, which are so netted together at Kittery Point
+that they hardly know themselves apart.  The days, whatever their length,
+are divided, not into hours, but into mails.  They begin, without regard
+to the sun, at eight o'clock, when the first mail comes with a few
+letters and papers which had forgotten themselves the night before.  At
+half-past eleven the great mid-day mail arrives; at four o'clock there is
+another indifferent and scattering post, much like that at eight in the
+morning; and at seven the last mail arrives with the Boston evening
+papers and the New York morning papers, to make you forget any letters
+you were looking for.  The opening of the mid-day mail is that which most
+throngs with summer folks the little postoffice under the elms, opposite
+the weather-beaten mansion of Sir William Pepperrell; but the evening
+mail attracts a large and mainly disinterested circle of natives.  The
+day's work on land and sea is then over, and the village leisure, perched
+upon fences and stayed against house walls, is of a picturesqueness which
+we should prize if we saw it abroad, and which I am not willing to slight
+on our own ground.
+
+
+
+
+II.
+
+The type is mostly of a seafaring brown, a complexion which seems to be
+inherited rather than personally acquired; for the commerce of Kittery
+Point perished long ago, and the fishing fleets that used to fit out from
+her wharves have almost as long ago passed to Gloucester.  All that is
+left of the fishing interest is the weir outside which supplies, fitfully
+and uncertainly, the fish shipped fresh to the nearest markets.  But in
+spite of this the tint taken from the suns and winds of the sea lingers
+on the local complexion; and the local manner is that freer and easier
+manner of people who have known other coasts, and are in some sort
+citizens of the world.  It is very different from the inland New England
+manner; as different as the gentle, slow speech of the shore from the
+clipped nasals of the hill-country.  The lounging native walk is not the
+heavy plod taught by the furrow, but has the lurch and the sway of the
+deck in it.
+
+Nothing could be better suited to progress through the long village,
+which rises and sinks beside the shore like a landscape with its sea-legs
+on; and nothing could be more charming and friendly than this village.
+It is quite untainted as yet by the summer cottages which have covered so
+much of the coast, and made it look as if the aesthetic suburbs of New
+York and Boston had gone ashore upon it.  There are two or three old-
+fashioned summer hotels; but the summer life distinctly fails to
+characterize the place.  The people live where their forefathers have
+lived for two hundred and fifty years; and for the century since the
+baronial domain of Sir William was broken up and his possessions
+confiscated by the young Republic, they have dwelt in small red or white
+houses on their small holdings along the slopes and levels of the low
+hills beside the water, where a man may pass with the least inconvenience
+and delay from his threshold to his gunwale.  Not all the houses are
+small; some are spacious and ambitious to be of ugly modern patterns; but
+most are simple and homelike.  Their gardens, following the example of
+Sir William's vanished pleasaunce, drop southward to the shore, where the
+lobster-traps and the hen-coops meet in unembarrassed promiscuity.  But
+the fish-flakes which once gave these inclines the effect of terraced
+vineyards have passed as utterly as the proud parterres of the old
+baronet; and Kittery Point no longer "makes" a cod or a haddock for the
+market.
+
+Three groceries, a butcher shop, and a small variety store study the few
+native wants; and with a little money one may live in as great real
+comfort here as for much in a larger place.  The street takes care of
+itself; the seafaring housekeeping of New England is not of the
+insatiable Dutch type which will not spare the stones of the highway; but
+within the houses are of almost terrifying cleanliness.  The other day I
+found myself in a kitchen where the stove shone like oxidized silver; the
+pump and sink were clad in oilcloth as with blue tiles; the walls were
+papered; the stainless floor was strewn with home-made hooked and braided
+rugs; and I felt the place so altogether too good for me that I pleaded
+to stay there for the transaction of my business, lest a sharper sense of
+my unfitness should await me in the parlor.
+
+The village, with scarcely an interval of farm-lands, stretches four
+miles along the water-side to Portsmouth; but it seems to me that just at
+the point where our lines have fallen there is the greatest concentration
+of its character.  This has apparently not been weakened, it has been
+accented, by the trolley-line which passes through its whole length, with
+gayly freighted cars coming and going every half-hour.  I suppose they
+are not longer than other trolley-cars, but they each affect me like a
+procession.  They are cheerful presences by day, and by night they light
+up the dim, winding street with the flare of their electric bulbs, and
+bring to the country a vision of city splendor upon terms that do not
+humiliate or disquiet.  During July and August they are mostly filled
+with summer folks from a great summer resort beyond us, and their lights
+reveal the pretty fashions of hats and gowns in all the charm of the
+latest lines and tints.  But there is an increasing democracy in these
+splendors, and one might easily mistake a passing excursionist from some
+neighboring inland town, or even a local native with the instinct of
+clothes, for a social leader from York Harbor.
+
+With the falling leaf, the barge-like open cars close up into well-warmed
+saloons, and falter to hourly intervals in their course.  But we are
+still far from the falling leaf; we are hardly come to the blushing or
+fading leaf.  Here and there an impassioned maple confesses the autumn;
+the ancient Pepperrell elms fling down showers of the baronet's fairy
+gold in the September gusts; the sumacs and the blackberry vines are
+ablaze along the tumbling black stone walls; but it is still summer, it
+is still summer: I cannot allow otherwise!
+
+
+
+
+III.
+
+The other day I visited for the first time (in the opulent indifference
+of one who could see it any time) the stately tomb of the first
+Pepperrell, who came from Cornwall to these coasts, and settled finally
+at Kittery Point.  He laid there the foundations of the greatest fortune
+in colonial New England, which revolutionary New England seized and
+dispersed, as I cannot but feel, a little ruthlessly.  In my personal
+quality I am of course averse to all great fortunes; and in my civic
+capacity I am a patriot.  But still I feel a sort of grace in wealth a
+century old, and if I could now have my way, I would not have had their
+possessions reft from those kindly Pepperrells, who could hardly help
+being loyal to the fountain of their baronial honors.  Sir William,
+indeed; had helped, more than any other man, to bring the people who
+despoiled him to a national consciousness.  If he did not imagine, he
+mainly managed the plucky New England expedition against Louisbourg at
+Cape Breton a half century before the War of Independence; and his
+splendid success in rending that stronghold from the French taught the
+colonists that they were Americans, and need be Englishmen no longer than
+they liked.  His soldiers were of the stamp of all succeeding American
+armies, and his leadership was of the neighborly and fatherly sort
+natural to an amiable man who knew most of them personally.  He was
+already the richest man in America, and his grateful king made him a
+baronet; but he came contentedly back to Kittery, and took up his old
+life in a region where he had the comfortable consideration of an
+unrivalled magnate.  He built himself the dignified mansion which still
+stands across the way from the post-office on Kittery Point, within an
+easy stone's cast of the far older house, where his father wedded Margery
+Bray, when he came, a thrifty young Welsh fisherman, from the Isles of
+Shoals, and established his family on Kittery.  The Bray house had been
+the finest in the region a hundred years before the Pepperrell mansion
+was built; it still remembers its consequence in the panelling and
+wainscoting of the large, square parlor where the young people were
+married and in the elaborate staircase cramped into the little, square
+hall; and the Bray fortune helped materially to swell the wealth of the
+Pepperrells.
+
+I do not know that I should care now to have a man able to ride thirty
+miles on his own land; but I do not mind Sir William's having done it
+here a hundred and fifty years ago; and I wish the confiscations had left
+his family, say, about a mile of it.  They could now, indeed, enjoy it
+only in the collateral branches, for all Sir William's line is extinct.
+The splendid mansion which he built his daughter is in alien hands, and
+the fine old house which Lady Pepperrell built herself after his death
+belongs to the remotest of kinsmen.  A group of these, the descendants of
+a prolific sister of the baronet, meets every year at Kittery Point as
+the Pepperrell Association, and, in a tent hard by the little grove of
+drooping spruces which shade the admirable renaissance cenotaph of Sir
+William's father, cherishes the family memories with due American
+"proceedings."
+
+
+
+
+IV.
+
+The meeting of the Pepperrell Association was by no means the chief
+excitement of our summer.  In fact, I do not know that it was an
+excitement at all; and I am sure it was not comparable to the presence of
+our naval squadron, when for four days the mighty dragon and kraken
+shapes of steel, which had crumbled the decrepit pride of Spain in the
+fight at Santiago, weltered in our peaceful waters, almost under my
+window.
+
+I try now to dignify them with handsome epithets; but while they were
+here I had moments of thinking they looked like a lot of whited
+locomotives, which had broken through from some trestle, in a recent
+accident, and were waiting the offices of a wrecking-train.  The poetry
+of the man-of-war still clings to the "three-decker out of the foam" of
+the past; it is too soon yet for it to have cast a mischievous halo about
+the modern battle-ship; and I looked at the New York and the Texas and
+the Brooklyn and the rest, and thought, "Ah, but for you, and our need of
+proving your dire efficiency, perhaps we could have got on with the
+wickedness of Spanish rule in Cuba, and there had been no war!"  Under my
+reluctant eyes the great, dreadful spectacle of the Santiago fight
+displayed itself in peaceful Kittery Harbor.  I saw the Spanish ships
+drive upon the reef where a man from Dover, New Hampshire, was camping in
+a little wooden shanty unconscious; and I heard the dying screams of the
+Spanish sailors, seethed and scalded within the steel walls of their own
+wicked war-kettles.
+
+As for the guns, battle or no battle, our ships, like "kind Lieutenant
+Belay of the 'Hot Cross-Bun'," seemed to be "banging away the whole day
+long."  They set a bad example to the dreamy old fort on the Newcastle
+shore, which, till they came, only recollected itself to salute the
+sunrise and sunset with a single gun; but which, under provocation of the
+squadron, formed a habit of firing twenty or thirty times at noon.
+
+Other martial shows and noises were not so bad.  I rather liked seeing
+the morning drill of the marines and the bluejackets on the iron decks,
+with the lively music that went with it.  The bugle calls and the bells
+were charming; the week's wash hung out to dry had its picturesqueness by
+day, and by night the spectral play of the search-lights along the waves
+and shores, and against the startled skies, was even more impressive.
+There was a band which gave us every evening the airs of the latest coon-
+songs, and the national anthems which we have borrowed from various
+nations; and yes, I remember the white squadron kindly, though I was so
+glad to have it go, and let us lapse back into our summer silence and
+calm.  It was (I do not mind saying now) a majestic sight to see those
+grotesque monsters gather themselves together, and go wallowing, one
+after another, out of the harbor, and drop behind the ledge of Whaleback
+Light, as if they had sunk into the sea.
+
+
+V.
+
+A deep peace fell upon us when they went, and it must have been at this
+most receptive moment, when all our sympathies were adjusted in a mood of
+hospitable expectation, that Jim appeared.
+
+Jim was, and still is, and I hope will long be, a cat; but unless one has
+lived at Kittery Point, and realized, from observation and experience,
+what a leading part cats may play in society, one cannot feel the full
+import of this fact.  Not only has every house in Kittery its cat, but
+every house seems to have its half-dozen cats, large, little, old, and
+young; of divers colors, tending mostly to a dark tortoise-shell.  With a
+whole ocean inviting to the tragic rite, I do not believe there is ever a
+kitten drowned in Kittery; the illimitable sea rather employs itself in
+supplying the fish to which "no cat's averse," but which the cats of
+Kittery demand to have cooked.  They do not like raw fish; they say it
+plainly, and they prefer to have the bones taken out for them, though
+they do not insist upon that point.
+
+At least, Jim never did so from the time when he first scented the odor
+of delicate young mackerel in the evening air about our kitchen, and
+dropped in upon the maids there with a fine casual effect of being merely
+out for a walk, and feeling it a neighborly thing to call.  He had on a
+silver collar, engraved with his name and surname, which offered itself
+for introduction like a visiting-card.  He was too polite to ask himself
+to the table at once, but after he had been welcomed to the family
+circle, he formed the habit of finding himself with us at breakfast and
+supper, when he sauntered in like one who should say, "Did I smell fish?"
+but would not go further in the way of hinting.
+
+He had no need to do so.  He was made at home, and freely invited to our
+best not only in fish, but in chicken, for which he showed a nice taste,
+and in sweetcorn, for which he revealed a most surprising fondness when
+it was cut from the cob for him.  After he had breakfasted or supped he
+gracefully suggested that he was thirsty by climbing to the table where
+the water-pitcher stood and stretching his fine feline head towards it.
+When he had lapped up his saucer of water; he marched into the parlor,
+and riveted the chains upon our fondness by taking the best chair and
+going to sleep in it in attitudes of Egyptian, of Assyrian majesty.
+His arts were few or none; he rather disdained to practise any; he
+completed our conquest by maintaining himself simply a fascinating
+presence; and perhaps we spoiled Jim.  It is certain that he came under
+my window at two o'clock one night, and tried the kitchen door.  It
+resisted his efforts to get in, and then Jim began to use language which
+I had never heard from the lips of a cat before, and seldom from the lips
+of a man.  I will not repeat it; enough that it carried to the listener
+the conviction that Jim was not sober.  Where he could have got his
+liquor in the totally abstinent State of Maine I could not positively
+say, but probably of some sailor who had brought it from the neighboring
+New Hampshire coast.  There could be no doubt, however, that Jim was
+drunk; and a dash from the water-pitcher seemed the only thing for him.
+The water did not touch him, but he started back in surprise and grief,
+and vanished into the night without a word.
+
+His feelings must have been deeply wounded, for it was almost a week
+before he came near us again; and then I think that nothing but young
+lobster would have brought him.  He forgave us finally, and made us of
+his party in the quarrel he began gradually to have with the large yellow
+cat of a next-door neighbor.  This culminated one afternoon, after a long
+exchange of mediaeval defiance and insult, in a battle upon a bed of rag-
+weed, with wild shrieks of rage, and prodigious feats of ground and lofty
+tumbling.  It seemed to our anxious eyes that Jim was getting the worst
+of it; but when we afterwards visited the battle-field and picked up
+several tufts of blond fur, we were in a doubt which was afterwards
+heightened by Jim's invasion of the yellow cat's territory, where he
+stretched himself defiantly upon the grass and seemed to be challenging
+the yellow cat to come out and try to put him off the premises.
+
+
+
+
+ETEXT EDITOR'S BOOKMARKS:
+
+Ambitious to be of ugly modern patterns
+Here and there an impassioned maple confesses the autumn
+Houses are of almost terrifying cleanliness
+Leading part cats may play in society
+Picturesqueness which we should prize if we saw it abroad
+Has the lurch and the sway of the deck in it
+
+
+
+
+End of this Project Gutenberg Etext of Notes of a Vanished Summer
+by William Dean Howells
+
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