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diff --git a/33593.txt b/33593.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..2bb7c15 --- /dev/null +++ b/33593.txt @@ -0,0 +1,4016 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Orchids, by James O'Brien + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Orchids + +Author: James O'Brien + +Release Date: August 31, 2010 [EBook #33593] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ORCHIDS *** + + + + +Produced by The Online Distributed Proofreading Team at +https://www.pgdp.net. (This file was produced from images +generously made available by The Internet Archive/American +Libraries.) + + + + + + + +Present-Day Gardening + +EDITED BY.... + +R. HOOPER PEARSON + +MANAGING EDITOR +OF THE _GARDENERS' CHRONICLE...._ + +A LIST OF VOLUMES +IN THE SERIES IS +GIVEN ON THE NEXT +PAGE.... + +[Transcriber's Note: Words surrounded by tildes, like ~this~ signifies +words in bold. Words surrounded by underscores, like _this_, signifies +words in italics.] + + +_Present-Day Gardening_ + +List of Volumes in the Series. + + + 1. SWEET PEAS. By HORACE J. WRIGHT, late Secretary and + Chairman of the National Sweet Pea Society. With Chapter on + "Sweet Peas for Exhibition" by THOS. STEVENSON. + + 2. PANSIES, VIOLAS, AND VIOLETS. By WILLIAM CUTHBERTSON, + J.P., and R. HOOPER PEARSON. + + 3. ROOT AND STEM VEGETABLES. By ALEXANDER DEAN, V.M.H., + Chairman of the National Vegetable Society. + + 4. DAFFODILS. By the Rev. J. JACOB, Secretary of the Midland + Daffodil Society, with Preface by the Rev. W. WILKS, M.A., + Secretary of the Royal Horticultural Society. + + 5. ORCHIDS. By JAMES O'BRIEN, V.M.H., Secretary of the + Orchid Committee of the Royal Horticultural Society. + + 6. CARNATIONS AND PINKS. By T. H. COOK, Head Gardener to + Queen Alexandra at Sandringham; JAMES DOUGLAS, V.M.H.; and + J. F. M'LEOD, Head Gardener to Mr. J. Pierpont Morgan. + + 7. RHODODENDRONS AND AZALEAS. (_The first popular volume + published on this subject._) By WILLIAM WATSON, A.L.S., + Curator of the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew, with Preface by + Sir FRED. W. MOORE, M.A., A.L.S., V.M.H. + + 8. LILIES. By A. GROVE, F.L.S., with Preface by H. J. ELWES, + F.R.S. + + 9. APPLES AND PEARS. By GEORGE BUNYARD, V.M.H., Chairman of + Fruit and Vegetable Committee of Royal Horticultural + Society. + + 10. ROSES. By H. R. DARLINGTON, Vice-President of National + Rose Society. (Double volume.) + + 11. IRISES. By W. RICKATSON DYKES, M.A., L.-es-L. With + Preface by PROFESSOR I. BAYLEY BALFOUR, D.SC., F.R.S., &c. + + 12. ANNUALS, HARDY AND HALF-HARDY. By C. H. CURTIS, Hon. + Sec. of the National Sweet Pea Society. + + 13. CHRYSANTHEMUMS. By THOMAS STEVENSON, with chapters by C. + HARMAN PAYNE and CHARLES E. SHEA. + + 14. TULIPS. By the Rev. J. JACOB. + + 15. THE ROCK GARDEN. By REGINALD FARRER, Author of "Among + the Hills," "My Rock Garden," "In a Yorkshire Garden," &c. + +These will be followed by volumes on ~Dahlias~, ~Climbers~, ~Trees and +Shrubs~, ~Paeonies~, ~Primulas~, ~Window Gardens~, ~Cucumbers~, ~Melons~, +~Bedding Plants~, ~Hardy Herbaceous Plants~, ~Ferns~, ~Tomatoes~, +~Bulbous Plants~, ~Peaches and Nectarines~, ~Vines~, ~Stove and +Greenhouse Plants~, ~&c.~ + + +[Illustration: PLATE I (_Frontispiece_) + +CYPRIPEDIUM INSIGNE SANDERAE] + + + + +Orchids + +By James O'Brien + +With Eight Coloured Plates + +[Illustration] + +London: T.C. & E.C. Jack + +67 Long Acre, w.c., & Edinburgh + + + + +PREFACE + + +In the early days of Orchid cultivation the idea was commonly +entertained that these interesting plants could never become popular +with the general public, for the reason that their culture involves a +great initial outlay and permanent expense. That such an idea is +incompatible with the facts is now admitted by all those who are most +familiar with the subject. There is no department of "Present-Day" +gardening that exhibits such wonderful progress as is shown in the +Orchid gardens and nurseries that are to be found in every portion of +these Isles. + +At the same time, the popularisation of Orchid culture is only now in +its very commencement. Amateurs are but just beginning to realise that +Orchids, like other plants, are capable of being understood by any one +who really desires to understand them; and, when once understood, the +cool species, at any rate, are not less tractable than common greenhouse +plants. So much is this the case that the author of the present volume +declares that even the house-holders in suburban districts who have but +one conservatory may, if they choose, keep that structure furnished with +Orchids at a less expenditure of time and money than is necessary for +the Palms, Ferns, and other species usually employed for the purpose. + +Orchid-growing in the past has been looked upon too much as a craze. +Ruinously high prices have been asked for novelties, and "collectors" +have been ready enough to pay them in the hope of obtaining unique +varieties. This fact alone has frightened off average people. + +It is hoped that the present volume will induce thousands to commence +the culture of the cooler species, as it clearly indicates the +simplicity of the cultural principles whilst explaining in full all the +principal details. + +Thanks to the experiments of former workers, we are no longer dependent +entirely on the introduction of plants from other countries. Seedling +Orchids are raised as freely as seedling Fuchsias, and home-raised +seedlings, as a rule, thrive better than introduced species in the +artificial cultivation we have to offer them. Readers will find the +details of cross-breeding and seed-raising set out in the following +pages at considerable length. + +The author is one of the greatest Orchid specialists the world has +known. As a practical cultivator in the old Pine Apple Nurseries of +Messrs. Henderson, he had the good fortune to flower many species for +the first time after their introduction, and ever since those early days +he has continued to specialise in these plants. He is secretary of the +Orchid Committee of the Royal Horticultural Society, and in 1897 he was +included in the first sixty horticulturists who were selected to +receive the Victoria Medal of honour in commemoration of Queen +Victoria's Jubilee. + +Our grateful acknowledgments are made to Lieut.-Col. Sir G. L. Holford, +K.C.V.O., for his kindness in affording us facilities for getting the +illustrations. Every plant illustrated is a first-rate specimen of its +kind, and all have been photographed in Sir George Holford's collection +at Westonbirt, which is so well cultivated by his grower, Mr. H. G. +Alexander. + + THE EDITOR. + + + + +CONTENTS + + + PAGE + +INTRODUCTION, 1 + +CHAP. + +I. THE RISE AND PROGRESS OF ORCHID CULTURE, 3 + +II. STRUCTURE OF ORCHID FLOWERS, 6 + +III. DIFFICULTIES TO OVERCOME, 8 + +IV. STRUCTURE OF THE ORCHID HOUSE, 9 + +V. THE POTTING AND BASKETING PROCESS, 22 + +VI. REMOVING USELESS LEAVES AND BULBS, 31 + +VII. PROPAGATION BY DIVISION, 34 + +VIII. WATERING EPIPHYTAL ORCHIDS, 35 + +IX. MANURES FOR ORCHIDS, 39 + +X. RESTING ORCHIDS, 44 + +XI. SPECIALLY RARE AND VALUABLE PLANTS, 46 + +XII. DISEASES AND INSECT PESTS, 47 + +XIII. PERIODICAL INSPECTION, 50 + +XIV. ORCHIDS FOR THE CONSERVATORY, 52 + +XV. ORCHIDS AS CUT FLOWERS, 55 + +XVI. IMPORTING ORCHIDS, 59 + +XVII. TREATMENT OF IMPORTED ORCHIDS, 63 + +XVIII. ODOURS OF ORCHIDS, 65 + +XIX. HYBRIDISING AND RAISING SEEDLING ORCHIDS, 67 + +XX. ENUMERATION OF THE PRINCIPAL GENERA AND +SPECIES IN CULTIVATION, 81 + +XXI. ORCHID HYBRIDS, 109 + +INDEX, 111 + + + + +LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS + + +PLATE + +I. CYPRIPEDIUM INSIGNE SANDERAE, _Frontispiece_ + + PAGE + +II. MILTONIA VEXILLARIA, 12 + +III. DENDROBIUM WARDIANUM, 24 + +IV. CATTLEYA TRIANAE VAR. HYDRA, 40 + +V. BRASSO-CATTLEYA DIGBYANO-MOSSIAE, 56 + +VI. CYMBIDIUM LOWIO-EBURNEUM, 72 + +VII. ONCIDIUM MARSHALLIANUM, 88 + +VIII. ODONTOGLOSSUM CRISPUM, 102 + + + + +ORCHIDS + + + + +INTRODUCTION + + +It is not necessary here to trace the history of Orchid cultivation +since its commencement a century and a half or so ago. The earlier +introductions were few and infrequent, but they probably attracted as +much attention as the subjects in our gardens obtain to-day. It may be +said of Orchids that no class of plants has so well and consistently +sustained the interest of cultivators, which is partly because few, if +any, plants have flowers that exhibit such diversity of form, size, and +colouring. But another reason for their popularity may be found in the +fact that few plants are so easy to cultivate, if placed in the care of +a careful and earnest cultivator who applies the best methods which his +own experience indicates and is willing to avail himself of the help +which the experience of others has placed within his reach. + +Upwards of fifty years' continuous experience with Orchids have +necessarily presented to us much evidence as to the right or the wrong +methods of carrying out the numerous operations connected with their +culture. Nevertheless, it may be said that common sense is one of the +most important factors in cultivation, and the grower who carefully +thinks over the various problems as they arise, and, profiting by +experience, does his best to avoid former failures, will obtain a +measure of success far exceeding his expectations. To those who know +anything about the ordinary processes of growth and flower the plants +tell their own tale. They show when actively growing the period when a +reasonable amount of heat and moisture is required, and, on the +completion of growth of the deciduous species and the turning yellow of +the leaves, they tell just as plainly when the resting period has +arrived. It is so in all the important stages of their existence. + +The extent of the present work having been determined by others in the +same series, the object has been to get as much useful information into +it as possible, to confine the matter to practical subjects and to avoid +repetition. It has therefore been arranged in a series of chapters, each +dealing with an important matter, and available for reference when any +question on the subject crops up in another portion of the book. Short +notes follow on the principal genera known in gardens, but the cultural +remarks may be supplemented by reference to the cultural chapters. +Anything like an enumeration of the more important species could not be +attempted. So also in the matter of hybrid Orchids, the question is +discussed in two chapters dealing with the practical question of raising +seedlings, but only slight reference could be made to the species used +in hybridising or to the numerous hybrids themselves.[1] The amateur who +engages in Orchid culture and in the raising of seedlings will find that +"practice makes master." It is in indicating the lines on which the +practice may be best pursued that, it is hoped, this book may serve a +useful purpose. + +[Footnote 1: Readers may be referred to _List of Orchid Hybrids_, +published by F. Sander and Sons.] + + + + +CHAPTER I + +THE RISE AND PROGRESS OF ORCHID CULTURE + + +The first tropical Orchid to flower in the British Isles appears to have +been _Bletia verecunda_ (_Helleborine americana_), figured in _Historia +Plantorum Rariorum, 1728-1735_. It bloomed in 1732 on a plant received +by Peter Collinson from the Bahamas in the previous year. In succession +to this appeared _Cypripedium spectabile_ and one or two other North +American Cypripediums; _Vanilla aromatica_, and a few other species, +chiefly terrestrial Orchids. In 1789 Aiton's _Hortus Kewensis_ +enumerated fifteen species of exotic Orchids as being in cultivation at +Kew, the tropical species being _Bletia verecunda_, _Epidendrum +fragrans_, _Epidendrum cochleatum_, and _Phaius grandifolius_. At the +end of the eighteenth century about fifty exotic species were recorded. +At that time most of the Orchids were imported only to perish as a +consequence of the unsuitable conditions in which they were grown. The +plants were potted in the most unlikely materials, such as decayed wood, +sawdust, loam, tanner's bark, or any other material which the cultivator +thought would be useful in preventing the excessive mortality among his +plants; but in all cases the chances of success were discounted by the +plants being placed near hot flues, or plunged in tan or bark beds. It +was thought that a great success had been attained if a plant bloomed +once before it died. + +The year 1800 may be said to be the real starting-point of rational +Orchid culture, although, even in the earlier part of the nineteenth +century, the old traditions still hindered progress. In 1800 _Aerides +odoratum_ was introduced, this being the first East Indian Orchid +cultivated in this country. In 1817 Sir Joseph Banks brought about the +cultivation of epiphytal Orchids in light, wicker baskets which were +suspended in the Orchid house or stove; this is one of the most +noteworthy events in the early history of Orchid cultivation. + +In 1818 _Cattleya labiata_ appeared, and about the same time +_Cypripedium insigne_, which has now two or three hundred varieties that +enthusiasts consider sufficiently distinct to bear varietal names. _Disa +grandiflora_ and _Oncidium Papilio_ appeared in 1825, when about 180 +species of tropical Orchids were in cultivation in the Horticultural +Society's Gardens. This Society gave a great impetus to Orchid culture +by sending out collectors into distant lands, and Dr. Lindley, whilst +Editor of the _Gardeners' Chronicle_, played a no less important part in +studying and recording the species as they were received in this +country. The interest in Orchid importing gradually spread, and from the +time when Alan Cunningham sent home Australian Orchids in 1835 the +interest has never flagged, the famous Orchid collectors, Lobb, Gardner, +Skinner, Hartweg, Gibson, and others, sending consignments from time to +time from various parts of the world. + +The first attempts to grow Orchids in a reasonably low temperature were +made in the first half of the nineteenth century, one of the first to +grasp the truth in this direction being Joseph Cooper, who was gardener +to Earl Fitzwilliam at Wentworth. But a considerable time elapsed before +the more rational treatment, which meant less artificial heat and more +ventilation, became general. The culture was further improved by the +introduction of the hot-water system of heating Orchid houses, a method +which is now almost perfect and has done more to further Orchid-growing +than anything else. + +The spread of information respecting the climatic conditions of the +countries in which the plants were collected also helped cultivators in +this country, and the articles published in the _Gardeners' Chronicle_ +in 1851 by the late B. S. Williams, and subsequent articles by other +experts, were of great service. + +The latter half of the nineteenth century was the most important era in +the development of Orchid cultivation. A remarkable feature was the +beginning of that industry which has now attained such widespread +popularity, namely, the raising of hybrid Orchids from seed. The first +hybrid Orchid, Calanthe x Dominyi (obtained from a cross between _C. +furcata_ and _C. Masuca_), flowered with Messrs. James Veitch & Sons in +October 1856. The same firm subsequently produced many fine hybrid +Calanthes, Phalanopsis, Cattleyas, Laelias, and Laeliocattleyas. Many of +these are now standard garden plants, whilst the work of hybridising and +raising hybrid Orchids has become general. + +Another notable event in Orchid culture during the period mentioned was +the commencement of the Cool-house or Odontoglossum Section of Orchid +Culture. In 1863, Weir, Blunt, and Schlim went to New Granada in search +of Odontoglossums, and they were successful in introducing plants of +_Odontoglossum crispum_ (Alexandrae), collected above Bogota. These +collectors also contributed to our knowledge of the proper methods of +cultivating cool Orchids. + +So things have gone on until our own days. Orchids hold one of the most +important places in gardens, and such genera as Odontoglossums and +Cypripediums are so popular that they are cultivated on an extensive +scale even by many who do not care to grow a general collection of +Orchids. + + + + +CHAPTER II + +STRUCTURE OF ORCHID FLOWERS + + +Most people are familiar with the regular arrangement of the segments of +the flowers of Amaryllids and Lilies, with their prominent pistils and +anthers. The first stage in the advance of the Orchid family is shown in +the Apostasieae, comprising _Apostasia_, _Neuwiedia_ and _Adactylus_, in +which the perianth segments are more or less regular and the anthers in +some degree prominent, Neuwiedia, with its free stamens and prominent +style, appearing at first sight nearer to some of the Amaryllids than to +the Orchideae commonly seen in gardens. + +The Cypripedieae, although so widely separated from other sections as to +suggest that in the operations of nature a vast number of connecting +types must have become extinct, is the next step, the labellum being +formed into a pouch with infolded side lobes. The column has a prominent +staminode with two fertile anthers below it, one on each side of the +column and behind the stigmatic plate. The upper sepal is frequently the +showiest feature in the flower; the lower sepals are joined and arranged +behind the lip, whilst the petals extend on each side and vary much in +form. + +In gardens, the whole of the genus is known as Cypripedium, although the +South American species (Selenipedium), having a three-celled ovary, +differ widely from the one-celled East Indian and Malayan species, and +other sections have such marked and consistent botanical differences as +to warrant the botanist in separating them under different sub-generic +names. The third section of Orchidae, the largest family of the +Monocotyledons, forms the chief class of Orchids as they are known in +gardens. In this class the stamens and style unite into a column, and at +the top of the column the pollen masses are situated; these are covered +by the anther-cap, and in a cavity is the stigma with its viscid surface +to receive the pollen grains. + +So diverse and intricate are the forms of the flowers, and especially +labellums, that there is little doubt that insect aid is necessary in +their natural habitats to bring about pollination. It has been proved by +the operations carried out in cross-fertilisation in gardens that no +class of plants can be so readily crossed under artificial conditions. +It is not necessary here to go further into structural details, as the +peculiarities of each section will be remarked on under their different +headings. But it may be said that in what are called abnormal flowers, +which have perfect stamens and style, can be seen instances suggesting +the evolutionary process; these would be more common but for the number +of connecting links which have dropped out in the great struggle for +existence. + + + + +CHAPTER III + +DIFFICULTIES TO OVERCOME + + +Some of the difficulties which the cultivator of Orchids has to contend +against arise from the fact that his houses have to accommodate plants +which have been brought from widely separated countries, or from +different altitudes in the same region. They therefore require very +different cultural conditions, especially in the matter of temperature. + +Consideration of the climatic conditions under which the plants are +found growing in their native habitats is very helpful to all engaged in +Orchid culture. Many problems have already been worked out by the +experience of cultivators, but some of the conclusions have been arrived +at only after costly failures. In the early days of Orchid culture, +before the advent of the modern Orchid house with its improved methods +of ventilation and means for the promotion of humidity, the great +mortality among cultivated Orchids was caused by excessive heat and +drought. Even at the present day more mischief is done by excessive heat +than by cold treatment. + + + + +CHAPTER IV + +STRUCTURE OF THE ORCHID HOUSE + + +So far as the improvements in present-day Orchid houses are concerned, +these are not due to the imagination of the horticultural builder, but +to the experience of the Orchid grower. It is owing to him that the +old-time glass sides, with their hinged ventilators on a level with the +plants, and many other harmful arrangements, have been abandoned. +Moderately low, span-roofed houses, extending north and south for +preference--although the aspect does not seem to be of vital +importance--are the best, the sides being wholly of brick, and also the +ends of all but the large houses, in which the upper part may be formed +of wood and glass. + +The top ventilation should be admitted through ventilators placed at the +highest point of the ridge, and they are usually worked by a continuous +system manipulated at one end. The lower ventilators should be small +ones fixed in the brick-work at the sides of the house, and they may be +arranged to be regulated from the outside, or by means of rods attached +to the flaps on the inside and reaching to the path, being carried +beneath the staging. The natural earth is the best base for an Orchid +house, and open wood-work trellises placed on the natural earth are far +preferable to tiled paths, therefore their use is strongly recommended. +Beneath the central stage, from end to end, deep tanks with cemented +interior should be provided, because rain-water is essential for +watering the plants. To create a good appearance, narrow, ornamental +rockeries may be arranged at the edge of the side staging and beneath +it, and in any part of the basement available. These should be planted +with Begonias, Tradescantias, such ferns as are not likely to be +attacked by thrips, Selaginellas, Fittonias, and _Ficus repens_, which +are not liable to attacks from insects, whilst their presence tends to +preserve a healthy atmosphere in the house. + +The rockeries beneath the staging should not be built high enough to +obstruct the passage of the heat from the hot-water piping, a rise of +one foot from the ground level being sufficient. + +In the warm-house, _Eucharis grandiflora_ and other species of Eucharis; +Hymenocallis and Pancratiums, thrive and bloom well beneath the staging. +The inside of the roof should be wired for suspending baskets containing +Orchids, and this should be done before the plants are placed in the +house. + +As regards the form of structure, comparatively low, span-roofed houses, +with brick sides reaching to the eaves, and no side glass, are the best, +the ends being of brick up to the height of the side walls, the +remaining part running up to the ridge, in all but very small houses, +being formed of wood and glass. If several houses are built, spaces +should be left between each house, and no two or more houses should be +built with partition walls, for these prevent the necessary side +ventilation. A house of 100 feet or so in length should have a division +midway in its length, which for some purposes gives the advantages of +two houses. Pitch-pine or teak, being durable, are good woods for the +wood-work, and, in any case, the use of cheap, soft timber should be +avoided. In glazing, only a thin bedding of putty should be used, and +the glass should be bradded on the upper side, as top putty when +decaying or on becoming loose is worse than useless, and tends seriously +to foul the water in the cisterns. Span-roofed houses 12 feet to 15 feet +wide, and of proportionate elevation, are suitable for ordinary Orchids, +but if specimen plants are desired a loftier house will be necessary. + +A range of houses should, if possible, be connected at the end which is +most exposed to the north and north-east winds by a corridor or covered +structure, in which the potting-shed stores and entrance to the boiler +hold should be arranged. The greatest care must be taken that no fumes +from the heating apparatus can find their way into either the corridor, +potting-sheds, or plant-houses, or the plants will suffer the worst +consequences. Safety can easily be assured by thoroughly ventilating the +stoke-hold and making the partition between the corridor or offices and +the stoke-hold as air-tight as possible. + +The wood-work, when of pitch-pine or other hard wood planed smooth, may +be oiled or varnished, painting being undesirable for new houses. In +course of time, however, painting has to be resorted to, and it is one +of the most trying operations about the Orchid houses. Great care has to +be taken to obtain a reliable quality of paint that will not harm the +plants, and to keep the house vacant for as long a time as possible for +the gases from the paint to escape. After the plants are returned to the +house some ventilation must be maintained day and night for a time. Tar +should not be used inside an Orchid house for any purpose. + + +THE STAGING + +The staging must be arranged according to the width of the house. Narrow +houses may be provided with a stage on each side and a path through the +centre. Other structures of sufficient width should be furnished with a +side stage measuring 4 feet to 4 feet 6 inches in width, and a central +stage on a somewhat higher level, and rising in steps to the middle and +highest point. + +[Illustration: PLATE II + +MILTONIA VEXILLARIA + +"EMPRESS AUGUSTA VICTORIA" + +(This specimen, cultivated from a single growth, bore 126 flowers.)] + +Iron frame-work is the best, because it is clean and almost +indestructible. The uprights resting on the floor should be fixed in +metal saucers, which, if kept filled with water, offer great obstacles +to insects ascending from the floor. The open wood-work resting on the +iron frames, and on which the plants are to stand, should be of teak or +pitch-pine, and arranged trellis-like. For some years past it has been +the practice to have a close, moisture-holding stage of slate, or tiles, +beneath the upper and open wood-work stage. It was an invention of my +own when adapting an ordinary plant-house with a slate stage to receive +one of the earliest importations of _Odontoglossum crispum_. The +existing slate stage was made water-tight at the joints, and a fillet of +cement was run along the back; the surface was then covered with clean +shingle, and home-made trellises, raised on bricks in three levels, were +placed along the close staging to receive the plants. It proved a great +success, and in the same house the small, bottom ventilators, the first +of their kind, but which have now become general, were an equally good +innovation. At that time, and for many years afterwards, the flooring of +Orchid houses was sealed by concrete or hard tiles, and the +moisture-holding lower stage was necessary to give a reasonable amount +of evaporating surface. More recently it has occurred to many of us that +a moisture-giving surface might be obtained from the natural earth, if +the earth was left either in its natural state or was given a coating of +coke-breeze or similar porous material, and trellises used for the +paths. In a similar way provision had to be made for the second object +of the close stage, namely, the checking of the direct upward heat from +the hot-water pipes. This has been done very effectively in some gardens +by arranging a much less elaborate and costly means than the full, close +staging generally in use. An iron frame is placed midway between the +hot-water pipes and the staging on which the plants rest; a shelf of +corrugated iron, slate, or tiles, extends from the back to about half +the width of the side staging, its inner edge being about midway in the +space beneath the staging, and an inch or so of space is left between +the back of the shelf and the wall of the house to allow some of the +heat from the pipes to pass that way, the greater part being diverted +towards the middle of the house by the intervention of the shelf which +is covered with turf or some other moisture-holding material. This is +kept continually moist by frequent syringings during the warm season, +when plenty of moisture in the air is required. + +In arranging new houses having the natural earth for a floor, this plan +is less expensive and altogether preferable to the formal, close staging +of full width, which, however, should still be retained in adapting +ordinary plant-houses already provided with a tiled or cemented base, +unless it is convenient to remove the tiles and restore the natural +earth surface. In arranging the staging, one essential object has to be +kept in view, namely, that no part of it shall be out of easy reach; for +very wide stages are apt to cause the plants in the back rows to suffer +neglect. + + +METHOD OF HEATING + +In these progressive times it is not well to lay down hard-and-fast +rules with regard to the best type of appliance. It should, however, be +urged that every Orchid house ought to be heated with hot water, and, +that in all cases 4-inch piping should be used, the radiation of heat +from that size being much more gentle and equal than from smaller pipes. +Bottom heat by means of piping under closed-in beds of cocoa-nut fibre, +or any other material, is bad, although, in a very slight degree, some +arrangement of the kind may be of assistance in the house devoted to +raising seedlings. If it is used, an outlet must be provided for the +inevitable moisture thus raised so that it will not condense and fall on +the plants. + +For small houses or blocks of houses, the old saddle boiler in some form +is all that can be desired; and there are several forms of +slow-combustion boilers which may be set almost on the surface of the +ground outside the house, and these are satisfactory. For blocks of +houses the English form of sectional boiler is one of the very best; in +large blocks duplicate sets of this pattern, or any other type that may +be selected, should be set down, as it provides means of heating the +houses if the ordinary boiler happens to fail. It is always better to +provide more power than may appear absolutely necessary, and work it at +low pressure, than to have barely sufficient power and work it hard +during severe weather, as the heat diffused in the latter case is +harmful. + +Before deciding on the means of heating to be employed, it would be well +to pay a visit to some of the collections noted for the excellent +condition of their plants, and inspect the appliances and their +arrangement. Most Orchid growers, whether in private establishments or +nurseries, are willing to assist amateurs in these matters. When the +apparatus has been got into working order, tests should be made to +ensure an equal distribution of the heat from the piping. If a draught +of hot air to any part of the house from beneath the staging is +observed, it is a good plan to build up openly-laid screens or brick +walls 4-1/2 inches thick, the layers of brick being placed so that there +is half the length of the brick opening between each brick and the next +to it. Where there is a sufficient command of heat, these openly-laid +brick walls, without mortar, built up below the side staging and running +parallel with the edge of it, if they are syringed frequently, assist +materially in preserving a healthy moisture in the house. + + +TEMPERATURE + +One of the most important matters in Orchid cultivation is to see that a +lower temperature is maintained at night than in the day. Nothing is +more injurious to the plants than to be kept in a high temperature at +night, nor is anything more contrary to natural conditions. All who have +travelled in the countries from whence Orchids have been imported +testify to the great difference between the temperature during the day +and that experienced at night, the difference in some parts being that +between an excessively hot day and a chilly night and early morning. +These cool conditions at night are absolutely necessary for the +well-being of the plants, and in their absence the plants suffer as do +human beings during the progress of a heat-wave, which often kills many +people. Therefore it must be urged that at night the temperature must be +from 5 deg. to 10 deg. Fahrenheit lower than the day temperatures. This +condition is difficult to get during hot weather, but it is necessary. +Although a scale of temperatures throughout the year must not be taken +to mean that a little more heat may not be allowed occasionally--as, for +instance, by sun-heat, which is beneficial--nevertheless it is better to +have a scale to form a basis, and especially to emphasise the lower +temperature at night. + + +~Table of Temperatures for Orchid Houses~ + + ----------------------------------------------------------------------- + Months. | Warm House, | Cattleya or | Cool or | + | East Indian. | Intermediate House.| Odontoglossum House.| + -----------|---------------|--------------------|---------------------- + | Day. | Night.| Day. | Night. | Day. | Night. + January | 65-70 | 60 | 60-65 | 55 | 50-55 | 45 + February | 65-70 | 60 | 60-65 | 55 | 50-55 | 45 + March | 65-70 | 60 | 60-65 | 55 | 55-60 | 50 + April | 65-70 | 60 | 60-65 | 55 | 55-60 | 50 + May | 70-75 | 65 | 65-70 | 60 | 60-65 | 55 + June | 75-80 | 65 | 70-75 | 60 | 60-65 | 55 + July | 75-85 | 65 | 70-80 | 65 | 60-70 | 55 + August | 75-85 | 65 | 70-80 | 65 | 60-70 | 55 + September | 75-80 | 65 | 70-75 | 60 | 60-65 | 55 + October | 70-75 | 65 | 65-70 | 60 | 60-65 | 55 + November | 65-70 | 60 | 60-65 | 55 | 55-60 | 50 + December | 65-70 | 60 | 60-65 | 55 | 50-55 | 45 + ----------------------------------------------------------------------- + +Degrees Fahrenheit. The higher day temperature should be obtained by +sun-heat when possible. + +Further remarks on this and other details will be found under the +headings of the different genera, but it will be better now to state in +general terms that during the season of active growth any reasonably +high temperature by sun-heat, secured by keeping the house tolerably +close and well shaded, greatly benefits the plants. This is specially +noticeable where batches of _Dendrobium nobile_, _D. Wardianum_, and +other deciduous Dendrobiums are grown. Those who grow them best allow +the house containing the plants to become very warm; they remove the +shading early in the afternoon in order to let the plants get the +longest duration of light possible, and they keep the house very moist +until the evening. + + +THE SINGLE ORCHID HOUSE + +It is doubtful whether the owner of a large collection of Orchids gets a +greater amount of pleasure than the beginner starting with but one +Orchid house, provided the owner of the single structure is careful in +selecting his plants. + +In cases where only one Orchid house is possible, and a more or less +general collection of plants is desired, that house should be heated as +an intermediate house. The single Orchid house has often been the +starting-point of more extensive culture. It is generally commenced by +utilising an existing plant-house, in some cases, unfortunately, without +making the necessary preparation for the new occupants. + +When it has been decided to adapt a house for Orchids, the proper course +is to clear the house of its contents, thoroughly overhaul the interior +fittings, such as staging, &c., and make any alterations necessary. The +heating apparatus should be regulated, and, above all, the best possible +provision must be made for catching and storing rain-water, even if this +necessitates the providing of a brick and cement tank beneath the +staging. + +If the existing floor in the house is of concrete or tiles, or any +similar material, it must be removed, leaving the natural earth for the +surface of the basement, and providing a wood-trellis for walking on in +spaces between the stages. Let the house be thoroughly cleansed and +painted, and after a short time has elapsed it will be ready to receive +the plants. + +In such a house heated as a cool, intermediate house, with a minimum +temperature of 50 deg. to 60 deg. Fahr. in winter, a large number of showy +Orchids can be grown successfully. Those species which require great +heat should be carefully avoided, for, although cool-house Orchids are +easily managed in a house warmer than is necessary for them, the +hot-house kinds usually fail in a temperature which is too low to allow +of their making growth under favourable conditions. In such an +intermediate house the Odontoglossums, Masdevallias and other favourite +cool-house Orchids can be grown successfully, if arranged in the cooler +part of the house and carefully watered. The Cattleyas, Laelias, and the +garden hybrids should be placed on the staging in the middle of the +house, well up to the light; the Brazilian Oncidiums, _Sophronitis +grandiflora_, and Stanhopeas should be suspended from the roof of the +house, but in such positions as will avoid placing them over the plants +on the side staging. The Odontoglossums and Cochliodas may be +accommodated on the side staging in the cooler and moister part of the +house. In such a house all the varieties of _Cypripedium insigne_, _C. +Spicerianum_, _C. Charlesworthii_, and all the green-leafed section +known as Selenipediums, will thrive admirably, and a very large +selection of other showy Orchids, including Zygopetalums; but again I +would say that species which are usually regarded as warm-house Orchids +must be rejected. + + +SHADING + +It should be distinctly understood that every Orchid house needs to be +fitted with proper means of shading, extending over the whole roof and +removable when necessary. Some cultivators think they meet the case by +providing shading only on the sunny side, or by painting the glass with +some kind of preparation more or less in the nature of whitewash. Such +preparations should never be used, because, when this is once placed on +the glass, the shade, such as it is, is there in dull as well as bright +weather, in the night time as well as the day, and for the greater part +of the time, especially in dull seasons, it obstructs light which is +necessary for the proper development of the plants. Another important +objection to their use is that shading given by these washes wears off +and leaves the plants exposed to the full sunlight. The substance is +washed off by the rains and carried into the rain-water tanks, thus +causing injuries to the plants watered with the polluted water, and +rendering unsightly the foliage moistened with it. + +Proper blinds running on iron or wooden supports, raising them well +above the glass of the roof, are absolutely necessary. Lath roller +blinds are excellent for shading, being durable, clean, and easily let +down and drawn up. + +Light canvas or scrim shading fixed to roller blinds answers the purpose +well, but care should be taken not to employ heavy, closely woven +canvas. Too great attention cannot be paid to the working of these +blinds, for they must never be down except when required for protection +against the sun's rays, and they must be drawn up during dull intervals. + +The blinds are useful also during severe winters as a protection against +excessive cold at nights, and in this particular the lath roller blinds +are the best, and may be left in position where they are likely to be +required for this purpose. + +When canvas blinds are used during the summer and removed in late +autumn, care should be taken to have them perfectly dry before they are +stored for the winter in some dry place, or they will be useless when +they are required for placing in position the following spring. + + + + +CHAPTER V + +THE POTTING AND BASKETING PROCESS + + +We are often asked what season is the best for potting and basketing +Orchids. Experienced growers say that, with the exception of the winter +season, they are engaged in potting operations all the year round, +potting each section as it requires it. Springtime is a period when a +general overhaul of the plants is usual, and, at that time, plants +requiring it should be repotted, but those which are not in the proper +condition, or which are showing flower-spikes, should be allowed to +remain until their flowering time has passed. + +As a general rule, it may be said that the best time to perform the +operation is soon after the flowering season has passed, and that no +plant should be repotted unless it really requires it; but any plant +which has become in a bad condition in the pot by being in unsuitable +material should be repotted at once, no matter what season it may be. + +Care should be taken to use the pots and crocks in a thoroughly clean +condition. Broken crocks are generally used for drainage, although they +are not now placed in the pots to the depth of one-half or more, as they +used to be. The depth of the crocks varies from about one-third in +Cypripediums and terrestrial Orchids generally, to a rather greater +depth for Cattleyas, Laelias, and similar Orchids, the depth of crocks +also being varied according to the density of the material used, fewer +crocks being necessary when a mixture of Osmunda fibre, or other +material which lets the water through quickly, is employed in place of +peat. + +Sand and crushed crocks or potsherds are used by many for mixing with +the potting material, but they may easily be dispensed with, or used +only in very small quantities. + +Turfy loam carefully broken up and mixed in suitable proportions with +peat and Sphagnum-moss, or Osmunda, or Polypodium fibre, is necessary +for Cypripediums, the proportion of loam being greatest for the +stronger-growing plants; certain Selenipediums and Cypripediums require +quite one-half of that ingredient. Some good growers use loam fibre +with a sprinkling of leaves and broken crocks entirely for _Cypripedium +insigne_ and others of the green-leafed class, and also for Calanthes, +Phaius, Zygopetalums, and other plants. + +In preparing the peat for use in potting, the bracken rhizomes should be +set aside to place as a layer over the crocks, with a little +Sphagnum-moss. Bracken rhizomes have been used with advantage instead of +crocks to form drainage for Odontoglossums, and some growers like it so +much for that purpose that the horticultural sundriesmen supply it +sterilised in bags. + +The methods of potting and choice of material vary with different +growers, each pursuing in some matters different methods to those +observed by others. It is desirable that an Orchid grower should +endeavour to find out the best methods for his own circumstances and, if +the results are satisfactory, that he should adhere to them, for there +is no more prolific cause of failure than in continually trying +experiments recommended by others. The operation of potting or basketing +Orchids is very simple, and can be readily learned by observation. The +aim should be to avoid injuring the living roots but to leave the plant +firm in the pot. + +[Illustration: PLATE III + +DENDROBIUM WARDIANUM + +(At the time the photograph was taken this plant bore 264 flowers.)] + + +BASKETS AND POTS + +It is more in accordance with nature to grow epiphytal Orchids of +convenient size in baskets to be suspended from the roof of the Orchid +house, and in the case of subjects reputedly difficult to grow the best +results are often attained in this way. At the same time, this is due as +much to the plants being placed near to the glass of the roof, as to the +fact that the air has better access to the roots than when the plants +are in pots. Hence it is that for suspending plants of small and medium +growth, Orchid pans made in the same way as the flower-pot are found to +be a convenient substitute for baskets, as they are not so liable to +decay as wood-baskets. + +Stanhopeas, Lueddemannias, Acinetas, and some other Orchids which +produce their flower spikes directly from the base of the growth, must +be grown in baskets to admit of the proper production of their flowers, +which, if grown in pots, are sent down into the compost and lost. +Gongoras, Cirrhaeas, and similar genera, which produce slender spikes of +flowers of drooping habit, are also best in baskets, as they produce +their flowers much more freely when the plants are suspended. + +The Orchid pan, for suspending, is also equally good for Masdevallias of +the Chimaera section, a large number of Bulbophyllums and Cirrhopetalums, +and generally for plants of small stature which would be too far away +from the glass if placed on the stage. For the bulk of the collection +the grower has to use the ordinary flower-pots, which are still +unsurpassed for general purposes. The elaborately designed pots, +perforated with holes or slits, which were used for Orchids years ago, +are not necessary, for there is no defect in the ordinary flower-pot +which cannot be overcome by the careful and skilful practitioner. + +Rafts and cylinders of teak-wood made in the same manner as baskets are +useful for some species, but it has to be remembered that plants on +rafts are liable to suffer from lack of sufficient moisture-holding +material around them. _Broughtonia sanguinea_, however, is never so +happy as when grown on a horizontally suspended raft without the least +potting material. + +The great trouble with suspended Orchids, and one which precludes the +cultivator employing this culture for so many plants as he could wish, +is the drip they cause to the plants on the stages. No Orchid should +have another plant suspended above it; if it is not possible to avoid +this, the relative positions of the suspended plants should be changed +as often as possible; water should only be given them by "dipping" the +plants, and they should be allowed to drain thoroughly before being +again suspended. As many of the suspended plants as possible should be +arranged on each side of the path, and in other situations where there +are no plants immediately under them. + +Narrow rafts 4 inches wide and 1 foot or so in height are suitable for +_Angraecum infundibulare_, _A. imbricatum_, and other scandent Angraecums +of similar growth. These should be fastened to the rafts with some good +Sphagnum-moss between the plant and the raft on the lower half, the base +of the plant and the raft being afterwards fastened in a flower-pot with +Sphagnum-moss, the raft leaning at a slight angle. Sphagnum-moss can be +added on the upper part as the plant grows, and, when sufficiently +rooted up the stem, it can be severed half-way up when the base will +produce new growths. + + +STAKING OR FIXING ORCHIDS + +Some years ago, when large specimens were favoured, it used to be the +practice to stake or "stick" the plants, as it was called, some of them +exhibiting almost as many sticks as pseudo-bulbs. The sticks rapidly +decayed, often leaving the stumps to harbour fungus and cause injury to +the plants. + +The compact specimens of the present day, when properly grown, require +no support from sticks. In respect to specimens of larger growth, such +as Aerides of tall habit, Laelias of the _L. purpurata_ class, and +Dendrobiums, when they require sticking at all, they may be securely +supported by one stick in the centre, to which one of the strongest +growths should be fastened, any others requiring support being looped to +the centre stick. The fewer sticks used the better. + +Dwarf plants with creeping rhizomes between the pseudo-bulbs used often +to be secured when repotted by small wire pegs, and the custom is not +yet quite obsolete. Metal, especially galvanised iron wire, which is +most commonly used, is very injurious to any portion of an Orchid which +is allowed to come in contact with it. Such pegs are unnecessary, for +the plants can be fixed with the potting material, and later on the new +roots will effectually secure them. + +In fastening Orchids on rafts or blocks, fine copper wire should be +used, and all the care possible taken to prevent it resting on the +rhizomes or stems, a small piece of peat or Sphagnum-moss being placed +beneath the wire where it crosses the plant. Where Orchids such as +Phalaenopsis are grown in baskets or hanging pans, the leaves should not +be allowed to touch the wire suspenders, or injury will result. Where +leaves too closely approach the wire suspenders during their growth, the +wire should be bent to avoid contact, or have a small shred of +cotton-wool or other material bound round it at the point of contact, if +the leaf cannot be drawn aside. + +For staking Orchids, bamboo canes are preferable to common deal-wood +sticks. + + +LABELLING THE PLANTS + +It adds much to the interest of a collection of Orchids, either small or +large, if a proper system of recording the plants is arranged for by +means of a stock-book, in which the name of each plant is entered as it +is acquired, together with the source from which it was obtained, and +any other particulars that may be required when the plant flowers. This +entry need only be brief, and generally one, or at most two lines will +suffice for each plant. If it is intended to keep the plants under +numbers, the left-hand margin should bear consecutive numbers from one +onward, but if it is desired to have the names on each plant, the names +in the stock-book should be arranged in an alphabetical manner. In some +collections where numbering is practised the number is written across +the top of the label, and the name written lengthwise when desired. + +The common deal label is not suitable, because the base soon decays in +Orchid houses, causing danger from fungal growth, and rendering the +identification of the plant after the label has perished, or fallen +away, very uncertain. The lead number for clipping the rim of the pot, +or attaching to the wires of the basket or suspending pan, is less +objectionable, but they are only convenient where numbers are alone +used. Zinc labels and various other contrivances have been tried, but +the best and safest label, either for numbers or names, or both, is the +white celluloid label, obtainable in all sizes, similar to the ordinary +wooden plant label, and in the ticket form for attaching to the baskets +by means of fine wire. This kind of label does not decay as the wood +labels, and it may be cleaned and used again as long as it remains in a +perfect condition. Let all labels be made as small as possible +consistent with their being firmly fixed, as it detracts much from the +appearance of a house of plants if the labels are too much in evidence. +Care must be taken during repotting that the labels removed from the +plants should each be returned to its proper specimen. Much trouble may +be caused by mixing the labels. + + + + +CHAPTER VI + +REMOVING USELESS LEAVES AND BULBS + + +An unsightly appearance is given to many collections of Orchids by the +presence on some of the plants of a number of damaged or yellow leaves. +These are often supposed to be the result of bad cultivation, and, in +some cases, rightly so. But in all collections of Orchids the old +leaves, even of the evergreen species, do not pass off naturally as they +do in their native habitats, where they have the natural seasons with +their climatic changes to cause the leaves to fall naturally. When +cultivated under glass, the species which are known as evergreen kinds +retain their old leaves long after they would have passed away in their +native wilds; and not only that, but they decline and become unsightly +for years under glass, instead of passing away in a few months. +Consequently many Orchids in collections often carry at least twice as +many leaves as they ought to do, and the oldest are the most unsightly. +A ready example of this kind is given by most collections of +Masdevallias. The leaves are usually densely packed, many of the older +ones shabby, and not only unsightly in themselves, but interfering with +the full development of the new growths. + +Masdevallias have no developed pseudo-bulbs, but a joint will be seen +where the leaf-blades join the basal stems; all damaged leaves should be +cut off just above that joint, and it will be found that some of the +plants will be benefited, both in appearance and condition, by having +from one-third to one-half the number of their old and damaged leaves +removed. The same remarks apply to all Orchids of similar growth, such +as Pleurothallis and Octomerias, and indeed to the species generally, +for damaged or decaying leaves can be of no assistance in the +development of the plant, unless in exceptional cases where the grower +must use his own discretion. + + +USELESS PSEUDO-BULBS + +If an imported Orchid such as a Cattleya or Laelia, which has been +cultivated under glass for several years and has many pseudo-bulbs, be +turned out of the pot and the roots freed from the potting material, it +will be seen that the new roots which nourish the plant are confined to +the freshest pseudo-bulbs, and that the roots beneath the older +pseudo-bulbs are in such a condition that they are useless in the +economy of the plant. This fact goes to show that the old pseudo-bulbs +are being supported by the newer growths, and, that they are seriously +impeding the full development of the flower-producing part of the +specimen. In such cases it is a common thing to see large specimens +collapse and die off, the decay being traceable to the old bulbs in the +centre of the plant. It is, therefore, better to remove old pseudo-bulbs +behind the last three or four leading ones, and, if it is desired to +retain all leading portions of a large mass in one pot or pan to form a +specimen, they should be potted together, when it will be found that, +given reasonable treatment, they will make better specimens than if left +in a mass. In the case of varieties that need to be propagated, the +pieces removed should be placed in comparatively small Orchid pans or +baskets, properly labelled, and in due time useful and often valuable +specimens may be secured from material which would only have been +detrimental to the parent plant. The same kind of treatment will be +found equally beneficial in the case of garden hybrids which have been +cultivated long enough to have a number of back bulbs. In such cases the +plants frequently degenerate after the first two or three years, until +they produce inferior flowers, but the removal of the back pseudo-bulbs +results in giving the flowering growths the full benefit of the root +action, and consequently the plants again produce flowers of good +quality. + +Potting time is a very convenient season to give special attention to +the removal of useless leaves and pseudo-bulbs, as the plants can be +readily handled when they are out of the pots. + +All useless parts removed should be taken out of the house and burnt. It +is a common practice to throw the leaves under the stage. No rubbish of +this, or any other kind, should be allowed in the Orchid house, as it +forms a harbour for insects and is, in other respects, objectionable. + + + + +CHAPTER VII + +PROPAGATION BY DIVISION + + +It used to be thought a very delicate operation to divide an Orchid, or +to remove any portion of it for the purpose of obtaining another +specimen, and, when the operation was carried out, it was thought to be +at the risk of the plant and its offset. + +In the case of badly grown plants, or where the houses are unsuitable +for growing Orchids successfully, there may still be considerable risk +in the process; but under ordinary conditions, and where the plants have +proper accommodation, there is no risk whatever; it may be said that +plants are never in better health than when they are divided at +reasonable intervals. If we consider the case of _Cypripedium insigne +Sanderae_, some of the white Cattleyas, and many other Orchids which were +imported only as single specimens originally but which are now well +represented in gardens, the advantage of dividing the plants is readily +seen. + +Pseudo-bulbous Orchids with progressive rhizomes, such as Cattleyas, +Laelias, Oncidiums, and Odontoglossums, should be divided by severing the +rhizomes, retaining two or more pseudo-bulbs together. This operation +can be done at any season of the year, but it is most convenient to do +it at potting time, and, for preference, just before the commencement of +the natural growing season of the plant. Small pieces should be placed +in small Orchid pans or baskets, but larger ones may be potted at once +and placed on the stage with the other plants. + +Dendrobiums may also be propagated by dividing the plants, but a large +section of the genus may also be propagated by cuttings of the +pseudo-bulbs. This method is specially useful for increasing a rare and +fine variety of _Dendrobium nobile_ or others of the section, as a good +supply of plants can quickly be obtained in this way. The method is to +cut the pseudo-bulbs into lengths of two or three inches and to place +them in small Orchid pans, six or eight in a pan, suspending the pan in +a warm, moist, house. The Thunia section of Phaius, _Epidendrum +radicans_, and some other Epidendrums and Orchids of similar growth may +be multiplied in this manner. Further remarks on propagation will be +found under the names of the genera enumerated. + + + + +CHAPTER VIII + +WATERING EPIPHYTAL ORCHIDS + + +Success or failure with any class of Orchids depends largely on the +exercise of discretion in watering. While it may be said that more +specimens are lost by having too little water, especially among the +smaller-growing species, than by over-watering, at the same time much +mischief is caused by a system of giving a little watering frequently +all the year round, and without any regard to the period of growth or +rest through which the plants are passing. Such treatment does not +provide for strong growth during the growing season, or adequate rest +after the growths are finished; consequently the plants decline in +health and the flowers are not satisfactory. Rain-water is the only +suitable water for Orchids, and the growers who can command a supply of +it all the year round possess a great advantage over those who have to +use water from any other source. + +During the period of growth and root action, too much water at the root +cannot easily be given, provided the material in which the plants are +potted is sufficiently porous and the pots or Orchid pans have a +sufficient drainage. The rule should be to water thoroughly when +watering at all, making sure that the whole of the potting material is +moistened well, then not to give more water to that plant until the +effect of the watering is seen to be passing, the plant being still +moist but approaching dryness, when the thorough watering should be +repeated. Nothing is more misleading than to pour a little water each +day on the surface of the material in which the plant is potted. This is +often considered to be careful watering, but it results in a large +number of the plants never getting thoroughly moist at the root, while +others in a retentive compost, or where the drainage is defective, +become soddened. Such cases may arise occasionally under any conditions, +and, where a thoroughly dry plant is found at a season when it should be +moist, it is better to plunge the pot or basket in water until it is +perfectly soaked. In the case of a plant which is too wet with stagnant +moisture, it should either be repotted after the wet potting material +has been removed, or placed on a shelf to remain without water until it +is again in a proper condition to receive it. + +In all cases a spouted watering-pot should be used. The rose +watering-pot and syringe are necessary things in the Orchid house, but +the use of them should be rigidly restricted to some definite work, such +as watering Orchids for the first time after repotting, sprinkling the +floors, staging, and brick walls, and other work which cannot cause +mischief. It used to be a common practice to water Orchids overhead with +a rose watering-pot, but the plants so watered made but few roots, and +the foliage was generally unsightly, owing to deposits from the water. +It is therefore best to make a rule against watering overhead in a +general way. + +The syringe may be used among Dendrobiums and some other warm-house +Orchids during the height of the growing season; but it would be safer +to arrange for such work to be done by means of a sprayer and at shorter +intervals. The sprayer is a very useful and beneficial contrivance, and, +in the hands of a careful operator using clean rain-water, it affords a +valuable aid in maintaining a healthily humid condition in the +atmosphere of all the Orchid houses, especially during the heat of the +summer. + +Equal in importance to the giving of sufficient water during the growing +season is the observance of the dry, resting season, which, in a varying +degree, is required by all Orchids, whether they come from hot or cold +habitats, and whether they are epiphytal or terrestrial species. + + +WATERING TERRESTRIAL ORCHIDS + +These, like the epiphytal Orchids, may be divided into two main classes, +namely, those which lose their leaves annually, and those which are more +or less evergreen. Some of the genera contain both of these classes, and +notably the Calanthes. In _C. vestita_, _C. Regnieri_, _C. rosea_, and +their varieties and hybrids the leaves turn yellow after the growths are +fully made up, a sign which gives a good indication as to the necessity +for withholding water for a lengthened period; while _Calanthe +veratrifolia_ and others of the class retain the last-made foliage green +all the year round, the loss of foliage being in the old leaves, which +should be removed at the first sign of decay. With these latter may be +classed the Phaius, Zygopetalums, Cymbidiums, Cypripediums, and many +others of evergreen habit, which require much care to be exercised in +the matter of withholding water during the resting season, otherwise the +plants will decline in vigour. After the growths are finished, most of +these plants are benefited by removal to a cooler and more freely +ventilated house for a few weeks, during which time the supply of water +should be restricted, but they should never be allowed to suffer by +being thoroughly dried. For Zygopetalums and other Orchids which it is +customary to place in a rather drier atmosphere during the time they are +in flower, such an interval would be sufficient rest. + + + + +CHAPTER IX + +MANURES FOR ORCHIDS + + +It should be distinctly understood that, in the case of true epiphytes, +there is no need for manures, and, that artificial chemical manures are +almost certain to bring about disastrous results, the final collapse +being in proportion to the potency of the stimulant used and the +recklessness of the grower. Where rain-water can be obtained and stored +for use throughout the season, it is safest and most satisfactory to +rely on this alone, except for some terrestrial Orchids. The chief +difficulty in recommending the use of manures for any class of plants, +Orchids especially, is in the fact that, once the practice is commenced, +even those cultivators who begin cautiously frequently lose discretion +in the course of time and ruin their plants by excessive applications. +It is for this reason that the growers of plants for market purposes, +whose secret of success almost entirely depends on the use of manures, +are careful to give out the supplies to the men who have to use them, +or, with the very best intentions, they would often destroy a crop. +Indeed, it is not uncommon for foremen, or men in charge of departments +in large nurseries devoted to growing plants for market, to resort to +unfair means to get extra supplies of manure for their plants, and +frequently with bad results. There is another curious feature about the +use of manures in market-plant gardens, namely, that all concerned +observe the greatest secrecy in the matter, and rarely admit that they +use "anything but water"--that being the common expression. The same +secrecy is observed by the Orchid expert in most cases. Another thing is +that there is no common formula accepted by all practitioners. Each +seems to have his own opinions as to materials, quality, and strength of +the stimulants used. + +One thing is certain, that even where artificial manures are used, the +time of application and its discontinuance has more to do with success +or failure than the nature of the manure itself. Even in cases where the +administration of a mild stimulant is of use during the period of active +growth and free rooting, if the manure is not discontinued after growth +is completed much mischief is done. + +It is not necessary to go into the relative merits of chemical manures, +which are not recommended for use, but it may be stated that some +growers do use small quantities with apparently good results, +restricting the use of the manure to the active growing season and +during the time the flower-spikes are forming. Aerides, Saccolabiums, +and Vandas seem to be exceptions, as they represent the highest +development of the epiphyte. Odontoglossums and some similar Orchids +have been treated to a very small quantity of Peruvian guano sprinkled +in the water used for watering them in spring while the flowers were +forming, and without a bad effect; but the quantity used was very small, +and the water was not allowed to touch the leaves or pseudo-bulbs. One +grower on the Continent was in the habit of sprinkling a handful of +nitrate of soda in the gutter of the house, especially before, or during +heavy rain, in order that a little solution of it might be carried into +the rain-water tanks in the Orchid house. His plants throve well, and +this shows that even with epiphytal Orchids there is a field open for +experiment; but the operator must not lose sight of the fact that he is +"playing with edged tools." We will now state what has been proved to be +beneficial when carefully carried out. Those who grow batches of the +showy Dendrobiums such as _D. nobile_, _D. Wardianum_, _D. Phalaenopsis_, +and others of the class, and who, at the growing season, place them in a +warm, moist house, suspended from the roof for preference, frequently +give them weak doses of liquid manure during the season of growth, and +the plants make very fine growth. + +[Illustration: PLATE IV + +CATTLEYA TRIANAE + +VAR. "HYDRA" + +(The plant bore 88 flowers.)] + +The liquid from farm-yard manure, or from a stable, should be avoided, +as its strength cannot be known; sometimes it is very weak, and at +others fatally strong. A large tub with liquid manure made of cow-dung, +and in which a coarse bag of soot has been sunk, is a safe manure for +any plant, and if properly diluted can do no harm to plants requiring +such a stimulant. + +Terrestrial Orchids such as Calanthes and Phaius can scarcely be grown +to their best without a liberal application of this, or some other +manure known to the operator to be safe, during their season of growth. +Cymbidiums, Zygopetalums, Peristerias, and other strong-growing Orchids +have also been treated to weak liquid manure from the commencement of +growth until the flowers expanded, with advantage so far as evidence is +available. + +An occasional watering of liquid manure, or slight sprinkling of guano, +may be given beneath the staging in the evenings during the growing +season. + +The structure of the roots of Orchids does not favour the idea that +they are suited for taking up stimulating liquid in the manner common to +fibrous-rooted plants. + +On the general question of the use of stimulants in Orchid culture many +clever men have carried out experiments. The late Dr. A. H. Smee went +into the question, basing his experiments on the chemical constituents +of the plants themselves, which is not an infallible guide. + +The late Norman C. Cookson carefully studied the subject, and he +recommended for experiment the following formula:-- + + Potassium nitrate (saltpetre), 3 oz. + Ammonium phosphate, 2 oz. + +Dissolve in a three-gallon jar of soft water, and when watering growing +Orchids, or those perfecting their flowers, add one ounce of the +solution to each gallon of water. + +Again it must be urged that those experimenting with manures must do so +only on growing plants, and when growth is completed it must be stopped. +No Orchid grower should undertake such experiments without first +obtaining his employer's concurrence. + + + + +CHAPTER X + +RESTING ORCHIDS + + +Whilst we may definitely say that all Orchids require a resting season +in some degree, the cultivator must be careful to arrange the resting +season, in the matter of its duration and other particulars, in +accordance with the nature of the plant, for in some classes of Orchids +it is very easy to do much mischief by subjecting them to a too +prolonged and rigorous resting time. Seedling Orchids, as a rule, +require little or no resting season until after their first flowering, +and Cattleyas, Laeliocattleyas, and other evergreen hybrids require a +rather shorter period of rest than deciduous species. + +Bulbophyllums, Cirrhopetalums, and many other small-growing Orchids are +frequently killed by attempting to give them a dry resting season, +although there is a section which lose their leaves in winter like the +deciduous Dendrobiums, and these are benefited by being dried off in a +cooler house when the leaves fall, keeping them dry until growth starts +again, in the same manner as _Dendrobium nobile_, _D. Wardianum_, _D. +crassinode_, and other deciduous Dendrobiums. + +The evergreen Dendrobiums of the _D. densiflorum_ and _D. Farmeri_ class +require a short rest in a lower temperature, and should be watered a +little occasionally, especially if they show a tendency to shrivel, +which is not a good thing for any Orchid. + +Aerides, Vandas, and Saccolabiums require a lower temperature in winter, +and less water. Many of these begin to grow in March; after that season +they require heat and moisture more liberally. + +As a rule, the plants themselves give the best indication when the +resting season has arrived, and, in the case of those which lose their +leaves, they show how much rest is necessary. The starting of the new +growth indicates when growing conditions should be restored. In respect +to the very small-growing species, and especially evergreen kinds, it is +much better to ignore the resting season rather than to lower the +vitality of the plants by a severe drying off. + + + + +CHAPTER XI + +SPECIALLY RARE AND VALUABLE PLANTS + + +While every plant in the collection should be given the best possible +care and attention, it is advisable to keep the more rare and valuable +specimens immediately under the eye of the grower. It is often the case +that albinos, rare varieties, and new species are allowed to get mixed +up in the general collection, and a plant that could not be replaced may +be hidden by the commoner things which are not of so much consequence. +In the case of the best spotted varieties of _Odontoglossum crispum_, +albino Cattleyas, and other exceptionally rare things, it is a good plan +to arrange a batch of them together in the most suitable part of the +house, or to place each on an inverted flower-pot at intervals along the +staging, thus bringing them into prominence and facilitating the +inspection of each at all times. Some use wire plant stands instead of +inverted pots, but the moisture-holding flower-pots are preferable, if +they are inspected occasionally to see that they are not harbouring +insects. Albinos and fine varieties of Cattleyas and Laelias could be +grown in suspended Orchid pans or baskets, to take them out of the +general collection, and so grown they would make better progress than if +placed on the stages. In the case of any plant not making satisfactory +growth it is often beneficial to place it on an inverted pot to bring it +more prominently under notice. + + + + +CHAPTER XII + +DISEASES AND INSECT PESTS + + +There is very much in the old-time advice, "Grow your plants clean," for +a very large proportion of Orchid diseases and insect pests are due to +errors in cultivation, more especially in the regulation of the +temperature and the ventilation. Insanitary houses lower the vitality of +the plants, and vegetation, like human beings, is a prey to disease when +kept in unhealthy conditions. + +Spot, or Orchid disease, exhibits itself in various forms. It is caused, +as scientists say, by different micro-organisms, but in effect it is +practically the same whether in the form known as "Spot," often seen in +Phalaenopsis, Aerides, and Vandas, or in the decayed and blackened +pseudo-bulbs of Cattleyas, especially _C. Warscewiczii_ (gigas), which +from an apparently healthy plant may develop a diseased condition of the +pseudo-bulbs, and become useless in a few days. In all such diseases it +will be seen that the tissues have collapsed, the result being brown or +blackish spots on leaves or bulbs. Imperfect nutrition from lack of +healthy roots is a frequent cause of this mischief, for Aerides and +Vandas which have been affected with "Spot" recover in the new growth, +for a time at least, if a satisfactory root action can be set up. + +Propagation, by freeing the recently made parts of the plants from the +old and worn-out back portions, which are not furnished with the roots +necessary to support themselves is one of the best means of preventing +Orchid diseases, and efforts should be made to keep the plants vigorous +and, therefore, capable of resisting attacks by insect pests. + +Plants are also benefited greatly by having their position in the houses +changed, and that is one of the great advantages of the periodical +inspection, for during this process the relative positions of the plants +are altered. + +It should be said that Cattleyas and other common Orchids badly affected +by disease had better be burnt, for it is cheaper to buy a healthy young +plant than to waste time in trying to bring the unsightly and diseased +specimens back to health. + +The Cattleya Fly (_Isosoma orchidearum_), first imported probably with +_Cattleya Dowiana_, and frequently with other Cattleyas since, affects +the new growths, the grubs causing them to swell and rendering the +growth useless. The same species, or one closely allied, also attacks +the young roots of Cattleyas, Laelias, and their hybrids, causing +unsightly galls on the points of the roots. Fumigation, with some safe +preparation to destroy the fly, should be carried out, and every young +growth and root-point as soon as they are seen to be affected should be +cut off and burnt. By adopting these remedies it is possible to get rid +of the pest. In purchasing freshly imported plants, care should be taken +to reject those which show signs of having been affected by the fly. + +Thrips, Red Spider, and Aphides occasionally appear in every collection, +and the remedy is fumigation and sponging with an insecticide, which +some growers prepare for themselves, either by pouring boiling water +over coarse tobacco tied up in a cloth and adding a little soft soap, or +by making an infusion of quassia chips. But excellent insecticides can +be purchased already prepared, which are guaranteed to be safe and +effective, and being of uniform strength, they may be used with +confidence if the instructions given with the preparations are observed +strictly. + +Avoid using paraffin and emulsions of paraffin, for it is dangerous, not +only to the plants sponged with it, but to all the plants in the house, +for it affects the atmosphere. + + +SCALE INSECTS + +These appear much less in collections now than formerly, because the old +large specimens are replaced by young and vigorous plants. Thirty or +forty years ago, it was a usual thing to spend several days every year +scraping the brown scales from tall plants of _Aerides odoratum_, _Vanda +tricolor_, and other specimen Orchids, and what was called "cleaning" +was going on all the year round. Now there is much less need of such +work, although scale will appear in its various species on one section +of plants or another. In the periodical inspections, all plants attacked +by it should have the insects removed by a piece of stick blunted at the +edge and point, sponging the leaves afterwards with some diluted +insecticide. Syringing with an insecticide, or dipping the plants in the +liquid, should be avoided, for the quantity applied is likely to +saturate the material in which the plants are potted and to run into the +centres of the young growths and cause injury. By means of a sponge, it +may be applied lightly or heavily, but the operator has command in each +case over what he is doing. + + +MEALY BUG + +Fortunately this pest is rare in Orchid houses, but when it appears it +is easily destroyed in the same manner as scale. + + +COCKROACHES + +The first of these insects to be noticed should be the signal for the +laying of poison. Search should be made for the breeding quarters, which +are often in the stoke-hole, or in some hot, dry corner of the house. +Various preparations are recommended, but the best still seems to be the +old phosphor paste, which should be placed on pieces of paper in the +haunts of the insects in the evening, and removed the next morning, a +fresh supply being put down every two or three days so long as one of +the insects remains. + + +SLUGS, SNAILS, AND WOODLICE + +To combat these is more a question of diligence than anything else. The +old remedies to attract them, such as lettuce leaves, or hollowed halves +of potatoes, are still effective, and a walk round the houses with a +light at night never goes unrewarded. + + + + +CHAPTER XIII + +PERIODICAL INSPECTION + + +Whenever the time is to be spared, it is a good plan to overhaul one or +other of the sections of Orchids thoroughly, and to have a more general +inspection as soon as possible after the winter has passed, and at the +end of the summer, this latter inspection being the more important. +Cleanliness in everything around Orchids is one of the most important +aids to successful culture, and, during the periodical inspections, +plants which are not clean should be cleansed, their pots where it is +required washed, and the staging and any part of the house requiring it +thoroughly cleansed before the plants are rearranged. During the course +of the work certain plants which would be benefited by being repotted, +or divided, will be found, and these should be given attention. The +water in the tub in which the green deposit on the pots has been removed +by scrubbing, and as much of the other water used in cleansing as can be +dealt with, should be poured down a drain outside the Orchid house. If +thrown on the floor of the house, it leaves an unpleasant odour, which +is harmful and lasts a long time. + +During the inspection at the end of the summer the staging should be +repaired where necessary, the heating apparatus carefully overhauled and +defects made good, in order to minimise the risk of having to do the +work during the cold weather. Where it is deemed advisable to black the +hot-water piping, use only lamp-black and oil. Paint gives off injurious +gases for a considerable time, and where persons have been incautious +enough to use gas-tar the most lamentable results have followed, the +mischief lasting for years. These periodical inspections and +rearrangement of the plants are also useful in preventing the same +plants occupying the same positions for too long a time. A change of +position in the house is beneficial, even where the plants are not +crowded; but in collections where the plants are closely arranged, to +change their positions frequently, goes far to mitigate the evil +arising from want of space. In preparing for a thorough inspection of +the plants in a house, it is desirable to remove a number of the plants +to another house to make room to examine the rest without risk of +breakage, the plants removed at the commencement being returned to fill +the space remaining after the work has been completed. + +The Orchid grower is always supposed to have the plants under his direct +inspection and to treat them with individual care, but these occasional +reviews often reveal defects in some of the specimens which would +otherwise have escaped for some considerable time. + + + + +CHAPTER XIV + +ORCHIDS FOR THE CONSERVATORY + + +There are many dwelling-houses of moderate pretensions, especially in +towns and suburban districts, in which the sole accommodation for +plant-growing consists of the conservatory adjoining the house, and this +is, in most cases, heated by one or other of the simple means at command +for the purpose. The contents of such structures are usually +unsatisfactory, the Pelargoniums, Fuchsias, and other soft-wooded plants +which are arranged with some of the hardier Palms and Ferns being drawn +into spindly growth, which results in a miserable supply of flowers for +a short season, and afterwards in decaying foliage, which is not +ornamental. Quite a new interest would open up to the owners of such +places were they to turn their attention to acquiring from time to time +a few of the Orchids which are now to be procured as cheaply as the less +suitable plants, such as Pelargoniums. Already some successes have been +recorded in this direction. + +Let us consider the different classes of conservatories, and the species +most likely to succeed in them. + +To take first the commonest kind of small conservatory attached to villa +gardens. These are unheated structures except in the winter months, when +the temperature cannot be kept from getting below 45 deg. Fahr. without +the aid of one of the oil-stove heating apparatus, or heat turned on from +the pipe connected with the kitchen range, where arrangements for doing +so have been provided. These means of applying artificial heat should be +used as little as possible, and only to prevent the temperature falling +below 45 deg. Fahr., for in confined spaces and with such means of heating, +the atmosphere is better for the plants without the use of artificial +heat, whenever the house can be kept from getting too cold without it. +In such conservatories, many of the Odontoglossums, Masdevallias, +_Oncidium varicosum_, _O. crispum_, _O. praetextum_, _O. Gardneri_, the +pretty scarlet _Sophronitis grandiflora_, _Epidendrum vitellinum_, +_Lycaste Skinneri_, _Cypripedium insigne_, _Disa grandiflora_, and a +number of other pretty and inexpensive species can be grown +satisfactorily, especially if the Oncidiums, Sophronitis, _Odontoglossum +Rossii majus_, and other of the smaller species be placed in baskets for +suspending, a means of cultivation which suits them best, and adds to +their decorative effect. + +The next step is the larger conservatory adjoining many town and +suburban dwellings. These are heated by a small boiler with hot-water +pipes, a means, it should be said, which is the only satisfactory method +of heating glass structures. To the species indicated for the smaller +and less safely heated structures may be added a very wide range of +subjects of great beauty. In such a structure the Palms supplying +decorative foliage may be much restricted, or entirely dispensed with, +as _Cymbidium Lowianum_, _C. giganteum_, _C. Tracyanum_, and any others +of the section having evergreen leaves of much grace, are decorative +plants at all seasons, and possess the further advantage of being +furnished with fine spikes of flowers for several months in the year. +These large and strong-growing species are specially adapted for the +conservatory, an Orchid house being unnecessary for them. + +To the heated conservatory also may now be handed over the showier +species and hybrids of the South American Cypripediums (Selenipediums), +which, probably because of their very free-growing nature rendering them +too large for the Orchid house, and the ready manner in which they may +be increased, have caused them to be slighted lately by growers of +collections of Orchids. The air of the conservatory, rather drier than +that of the Orchid house, suits these plants admirably. Their bright +evergreen foliage and tall sprays of white and rose, or greenish flowers +tinged with purple, which often by succession keep the specimens in +bloom for six months in the year, render them beautiful and interesting +subjects for the conservatory. + +The strongest and best kinds to be acquired are _Selenipedium +longifolium_, _S. Sedenii_, _S. cardinale_, _S. calurum_, _S. grande_, +_S. Schroederae_, and _S. albo-purpureum_. + +_Cypriperium Charlesworthii_, _C. Spicerianum_, and _C. Leeanum_ should +also be added. The larger, heated conservatories might well be furnished +with the Orchids recommended rather than the plants generally used for +decorating them, for these have to be changed frequently. The Orchids, +if carefully tended, will grow permanently in the conservatory and be a +source of never-failing interest. In these large conservatories, +Stanhopeas in baskets for suspending are ornamental plants, and +Sobralias on the floor or central bed would prove satisfactory. To those +enumerated many more might be added, but in all cases it is best to get +only evergreen kinds, which may be grown continuously in the same house. + + + + +CHAPTER XV + +ORCHIDS AS CUT FLOWERS + + +Orchids having flowers with persistent perianths, in which the segments +do not drop as in many other flowers, are of the highest value for cut +flowers, as some or other of them can be obtained in every month in the +year. Large quantities of the large-flowered Cattleyas, especially _C. +labiata_, of _C. Harrisoniana_ and its near ally _C. Loddigesii_, +_Odontoglossum crispum_, _O. Pescatorei_, Dendrobiums, and other showy +Orchids are grown for cut flowers in nurseries where Orchids are not +required for other than market purposes. In many private gardens, also, +the same kinds of Orchids are grown for decorative purposes, even +without a desire to grow a general collection. Those who arrange for a +general collection of Orchids as their primary object often cut the +flowers for their own use, or to give to their friends, and the +following remarks may be useful to all classes of growers. + +A large proportion of the flowers of Orchids used for decorative +purposes are in a great degree wasted by being cut in an immature state +soon after the buds have expanded. Such flowers last but a very short +time, and, if used for decoration by night, are only presentable for one +evening. Orchid flowers should not be cut until they are fully mature +and their tissues hardened. They last longer even if they are cut after +they are past their best, than they do if cut too soon after expanding. +When mature, the flowers require less support from moisture passing up +the stem than most flowers, but if cut in an undeveloped state +sufficient moisture cannot be obtained through the stems, even if well +supplied with water, to continue the development, and the petals droop +and the flowers soon wither. + +[Illustration: PLATE V + +BRASSO-CATTLEYA DIGBYANO-MOSSIAE + +"WESTONBIRT VARIETY" + +(Raised from a cross between _Brassavola Digbyana_ and _Cattleya +Mossiae_.)] + +When Orchid flowers are to be used for decorative purposes, no matter in +what stage of development they may be, it adds greatly to their +durability if they are placed head downward, thoroughly immersed in +clean water (rain-water for preference), and kept so immersed until an +hour or so before they are set up, gently shaking the water from them, +and placing them on a cloth or some dry, cool surface until wanted. +Treated in this way, Orchid flowers will last for weeks instead of days. +The method should be to take them out of the dining-room or other place +where they have been used after the guests have departed each evening. +Have ready a large earthenware pan filled with water, and in it immerse +the Orchid flowers, leaving them immersed until shortly before they are +required to be set up again next day, repeating the same treatment every +night. Managed in this way, sprays of Odontoglossums and other Orchids +often last for weeks, and look better than freshly cut immature flowers +do even on the first day. Flowers received by post should always be +treated to the bath for some hours, and, during immersion, any defects +which are reparable will be made good and the duration of the flowers +ensured, especially if the immersion be repeated as before recommended. +In this way Masdevallia, Sobralia, and other fugacious flowers may be +used for decorative purposes for two evenings at least, but in the +absence of immersion they would wither in a very short time. It might +also be said that the Maidenhair Fern, also _Asparagus plumosus_, and +other foliage used with the cut Orchids are materially benefited by +immersion, the Maidenhair Fern especially; it should always be kept +immersed until required for use. + + + + +CHAPTER XVI + +IMPORTING ORCHIDS + + +Many interesting Orchids have been imported by amateurs who have friends +or correspondents in the countries which the Orchids inhabit, and many +more would have arrived alive if the persons who sent them possessed +some knowledge of the best methods of collecting, packing, and +forwarding the plants. The want of this knowledge often results in the +trouble the collector has taken being in vain, and disappointment to the +receiver who gets the dead plants and has to tell his correspondent the +sad tale of failure. + +Orchids should be gathered and forwarded during their resting season, +and with a sufficient time between their being sent off and their +natural growing season to allow of the period of their transit being +made before their resting season expires. This rule is often needlessly +violated by those who are settled in the district from whence they are +sending the Orchids, and who could easily wait until the resting season +comes round. For those who are travelling and have to take the Orchids +when they can and in whatever condition they may be, however, there is +some excuse, and by carefully forwarding the plants, even although at +the wrong season, many may get them over alive. Residents in the tropics +often grow a collection of Orchids, bringing to the gardens around their +residences the plants collected in distant parts of their districts. +These growers have a notion that cultivated plants are the best to send +their correspondents, therefore, although they could collect fresh +plants, they think it safer to send those in their own gardens. These +are the very worst plants to travel. They are usually collected in high +localities, and their sojourn in a garden results in lowered vitality, +which explains why a large proportion die during the journey to this +country. + +Freshly collected plants, in whatever stage they may be, are the best, +the ideal conditions being to take the plants at mid-resting season, to +have the case to receive them beneath the trees on which they are +growing, to pack them off at once to a shipping agent at the port of +embarkation, to catch a steamer previously timed, and to consign the +case or cases to a reliable shipping agent in England. + +Another cause of mortality in Orchids during transit arises from the +mistaken notion that the plants require to be prepared by drying before +packing, and this practice is continued so long and rigorously in many +cases that the plants are half dead before they are despatched. + +No such preparation is needed; the plants should be packed at once after +collecting, and any moisture which may be in them will escape through +the small holes in the case. The parcels post is available from many +parts of the tropics, and from some places it is the only reliable means +of getting Orchids over in a reasonable time. But it is only available +for small lots, and for these it forms the best means of forwarding. +Unfortunately, there are drawbacks even to these means, for the parcels, +especially from some ports, are frequently stowed in hot chambers on +board the mail steamer, the object being to keep the mails dry, and +plant-life is destroyed by the excessive heat. + +Epiphytal Orchids with pseudo-bulbs, such as Cattleyas, Laelias, and +Epidendrums, if collected at or near the proper season, require very +little packing. The cases being ready, it is necessary to place a layer +of plants at the bottom, with their heads all facing one way. The next +layer is placed with the heads the reverse way, and so on until the box +is full of plants firmly pressed in, but not sufficiently close to cause +injury. During the packing a few struts of wood should be placed across +the inside and fastened by nails driven into their ends from the +outside; these will prevent the plants from forming a mass and rolling +about when the boxes are moved. A few small holes should be bored in the +boxes to admit a little air. + +Leafy epiphytal Orchids, such as Phalaenopsis, Aerides, Vandas, and +Saccolabiums, may be forwarded in the same way, but with a sprinkling of +fine paper cuttings, layers of paper, fine but not resinous shavings, or +dry moss between each row of plants. In respect to species which do not +possess pseudo-bulbs it is absolutely necessary that they be sent at the +proper resting season, if forwarded in bulk in boxes. + +Phalaenopsis for sending at any time are prepared by collectors in Java +and the Philippines by establishing the plants on blocks. They are +almost the only temporarily cultivated Orchids which often travel well +when so managed, and they are usually sent fastened round the sides and +backs of Wardian cases, a method which is somewhat costly. Terrestrial +Orchids, such as Phaius, Calanthes, and others with above-ground +pseudo-bulbs, if collected at the proper resting season, travel well +packed in cases of moderate size and with a little dry packing material +placed between the rows. The danger with these kinds is that the +pseudo-bulbs, being soft and containing much moisture, are liable to +decay, and a few damaged plants may cause the loss of all contained in +the box. + +Tuberous-rooted, terrestrial Orchids of the same nature as the British +Orchis, and including the African Disas, and Satyriums, also the +Habenarias of different regions, should be marked when in flower and +lifted in the resting season, the tubers being placed in small boxes +with a sprinkling of nearly dry sandy peat or sand, run in between the +tubers. If there are several different kinds to be forwarded, all the +small boxes containing them may be packed together in a larger box. + +Next to the trouble caused by loss in transit is that of having plants +arrive without any means of identification. The collector should be +careful to write the name of every specimen on an imperishable label, +or, better still, send each under a number and forward a numbered list +with the names corresponding to the numbers on each kind sent. Those who +are collecting Orchids should, as often as possible, dry specimens of +the growth and flowers of each kind, forwarding one set, numbered +similarly to the set retained, to their correspondent, or to some +authority, for identification. A description or rough sketch of the +plant should be given on the same sheet as the dried specimens, stating +such important particulars as colour of flowers, altitude of habitat, +and exact locality. + + + + +CHAPTER XVII + +TREATMENT OF IMPORTED ORCHIDS + + +Much depends on the condition of the importations, whether they have +been collected at the proper time, and whether they have been properly +packed and forwarded. Many imported Orchids offered for sale cannot +possibly do well, as from improper packing they have "heated," or been +subjected to excessive heat or cold whilst on board. Cases of Orchids +awaiting transit are often left on the landings in the full sun and +become partially desiccated, though while dry still retaining a green +appearance. Such collectors' failures die rapidly as soon as heat and +moisture are given, and, even in the case of those which seem to +establish a healthy appearance of the pseudo-bulbs, growth is not +possible, as the growth-buds have been dried up. It is waste of time +trying to bring such plants round, therefore care should be taken not to +purchase them at any price. + +Imported Orchids of all kinds should be trimmed over as soon as they are +received, the damaged parts removed, and the plants placed in a +cool-intermediate temperature after they have been sponged over. They +may be suspended for a few days and afterwards placed in small pots of +broken crocks. Pseudo-bulbous Orchids, such as Odontoglossums and +Cattleyas, should not be watered, but they may be sponged occasionally +until growth commences, when they should be potted in the usual manner. + +Aerides, Saccolabiums, Vandas, Angraecums, and other Orchids not having +pseudo-bulbs may be treated in the same way as the pseudo-bulbous kinds, +it being probably the safer and more cautious policy. But good results, +and a quicker establishment may be secured, if the plants are +recoverable by immersing them for five minutes in a rain-water tank +immediately on arrival, suspending them head downwards from the roof of +the house afterwards, and repeating the dipping two or three times a +week. This method has the advantage at least that those which were not +recoverable are quickly discovered, while the sound plants soon plump +up. With all imported plants there is no use potting them permanently +and watering them until growth commences, but they must not be kept too +hot in the meantime. + + + + +CHAPTER XVIII + +ODOURS OF ORCHIDS + + +Many Orchids have fragrant flowers, while in some sections the fragrance +is emitted by the whole plant. A large number of Burmese and Indian, +highland Orchids, such as _Dendrobium moschatum_, the section of +deciduous Bulbophyllums which includes _B. auricomum_, _B. hirtum_, _B. +comosum_, and _B. suavissimum_, have leaves that on becoming dry after +falling give off a strong odour of newly-mown hay, the plants also in +all their parts being similarly scented when dry, even the cases +containing them being pleasantly scented by the plants. + +The odours of Orchid flowers may generally be likened to well-known +perfumes. _Trichopilia suavis_, _Miltonia Roezlii_, and others are +scented like the Rose; _Odontoglossum odoratum_ and some other +Odontoglossums, _Maxillaria picta_ and other Maxillarias, like the +Hawthorn. Certain Maxillarias of the _M. luteo-alba_ section are scented +like Honeysuckle, and odour similar to the Tuberose is given off by many +Angraecums. Some have a much stronger odour at night than in the day, a +peculiarity which is found in _Epidendrum nocturnum_, _E. ciliare_, and +many species. Vanilla is a common scent in Orchids, being present in +some Vandas. The odour of Violets is furnished by _Dendrobium +heterocarpum_ and others of its class, and the Primrose, Wallflower, and +other common garden plants have their exact imitators in the matter of +scent in some tropical Orchids--indeed, it is an interesting subject to +consider how plants resemble each other in this particular. Then there +are large numbers of Orchids with such delicate odours that some are +unable to appreciate them, but they are specially grateful to those who +detect them. Again, some Orchids have different odours at different +times in the day. It is not safe, therefore, to declare a plant +scentless unless it has been tested repeatedly at different times. + +Variation in odour has been noticed. We remember flowering the first +_Odontoglossum hebraicum_, and on testing it its odour was of cinnamon. +It passed to Sir Trevor Lawrence's collection, and we asked the late Mr. +Spyers to test the odour, and he replied that it was of Hawthorn, like +others of its class. He tested it several times with the same result, +but for some time before it passed off he reported to us that it smelt +exactly like cinnamon. Then there are odours in Orchids about which +opinions are divided as to whether they are pleasant or not. _Oncidium +ornithorhynchum_ is an example; some like the odour of it very much, +while it is disagreeable to others. The same applies to Anguloas, some +Lycastes and Stanhopeas with strongly aromatic scent, which are pleasant +at a distance, but not so when too closely approached. But the majority +are distinctly pleasant, _Cattleya Dowiana_ and its hybrids, _C. +Eldorado_ and others, being delicately fragrant. + +A very few are malodorous, _Bulbophyllum Beccari_ not being tolerable +under any circumstances, the flowers smelling like some of the +Stapelias. + + + + +CHAPTER XIX + +HYBRIDISING AND RAISING SEEDLING ORCHIDS + + +A new interest has been added to Orchid culture by the pursuit of +hybridising and raising seedling Orchids, which commenced with _Calanthe +Dominyi_, raised in the nurseries of Messrs. Veitch and recorded in the +_Gardeners' Chronicle_ in 1858. The practice has now become general, and +a large number of Orchidists arrange for the production of new Orchids +from seeds, while even in small collections some attention is given to +the matter. When the engrossing pursuit is first taken up, the operator +should neglect no opportunity to make himself conversant with the +structure of the flowers. This may be done effectually by carefully +examining any available flowers, and by making longitudinal sections of +the bloom by cutting them in two, commencing at the apex of the column +and finishing at the ovary and pedicel. This operation exposes the +various organs that are concerned in the fertilisation of the flower. + +In most Orchids, such for instance as Laelias and Cattleyas, it will be +seen that the pollen masses are situated at the apex of the column +covered by the anther cap, the stigma being in a cavity in the face of +the column beneath it. + +In Cypripedium there are two developed anthers; the viscous pollen +masses are not enclosed in cases, but are placed opposite each other; +the stigma is a shield-shaped body seen inside the lip on the under +side of the column, and the stigmatic surface is not viscous. + +The details of the structure of the flowers being fully understood, it +will readily be seen that the first process in the production of seeds +is to fertilise the flower intended to bear the seed capsule with the +pollen of the other parent selected. This is readily accomplished by +lifting the pollen masses beneath the anther-cap with a thin pencil or +sharpened stick and placing them on the stigmatic surface of the +seed-bearing parent. + +Flowers which are intended to be fertilised for seed-bearing should have +their own pollen carefully removed before the pollen taken from the +other plant is introduced, the pollen removed being used to effect the +reverse cross, or to fertilise another species if desired. + +In fertilising small flowers with the pollen of larger species, as in +the case of _Sophronitis grandiflora_ with the pollinia of the larger +species, the pollen masses may be cut and a portion of it used in +crossing the smaller flower. When the flower of a plant has been +fertilised, the plant should receive special attention; if it is a +Cattleya, Laelia, or one of the large-growing epiphytes, it should, after +the pseudo-bulb bearing the flower has had a number attached to it +corresponding to the number in the stock-book in which the crosses are +recorded, be suspended from the roof in a comfortable and not draughty +situation. If the plant is in a pot, the pot should be placed in a +basket and suspended; or if a suitable position can be found on the +stage, it could be placed on an inverted pot to bring it into prominence +and secure for it careful attention. Where there is a number of +seed-bearing plants, they should be arranged together in the respective +houses in which they are grown. + +Early in its development, the seed capsule should be supported by ties, +which, however, should not bring it into an unnatural position, or press +tightly on the part supported. From this time failure may arise from the +conflicting natures of the agents used, or from various causes. Even the +production of a fine and seemingly mature fruit is not a certain +indication of good seeds, for seed capsules have been produced by +irritation of the stigmatic surface by grit or dust, but no fertile +seeds can be thus produced. On approaching maturity, a tie should be +made round the middle of the capsule to prevent loss of seed when the +splitting of the capsule takes place, and, when it is thoroughly mature, +it should be removed, placed in a flower-pot lined with tissue-paper, +and put on a shelf in a dry potting-shed until so thoroughly ripe that +the seeds are being shed in the tissue-paper covering. + +At this stage it is possible for the first time to determine whether the +seed, or any of it, is good or not. Examination with a strong lens will +show whether the minute seeds are good or not by the presence or absence +of the embryo in the centre of the elongated covering, which in +imperfectly developed specimens is chaff-like and not thickened in the +middle as are good seeds. Where no good seeds are found, it is the +custom of some growers to discard it at once, and where but few good +seeds appear, attempts are made to discard the chaff and to retain the +supposed good ones for sowing. Where space admits, however, especially +with the beginner, it would be more prudent to sow a portion of the +contents of the capsule, whether supposed to be good or not. + + +SEED SOWING + +A number of the seeds of all seed capsules should be sown as soon as +they are ready, the remainder being carefully stored for sowing later if +required, the seeds sown and those retained being carefully marked with +the number in the record book. + +The manner of sowing the seeds varies in different establishments, +satisfactory results having been obtained under very dissimilar +conditions. Failure at first is the usual record of the amateur taking +up Orchid hybridisation, although some few get fairly good success from +the commencement, while those who have had a run of bad luck usually +conquer in the end if they persevere. A scientific reason for some +failures has been given, namely, that an endophytic fungus said to be +necessary to the development of the freshly germinated seeds is wanting +in the early stages, but may be developed naturally after a time, and a +better state of growth result. Be that as it may, it is a curious fact +that the line of demarcation between failure and success in the matter +of raising seedling Orchids is very narrow, and, when the operator +succeeds in raising a fair proportion of the seeds sown, he is generally +surprised at his former want of success, apparently under practically +similar conditions. Formerly the common practice was to sow the seeds on +the surface of the material in which the parent plant was growing, or a +plant of some kindred variety. This practice has been generally +satisfactory and continues in most amateur collections to the present +day. A plant in a basket, or suspended pan or pot, is best, the subject +being chosen for the good quality of the peat, Osmunda fibre, or +whatever material the plant may be growing in. The Sphagnum-moss on the +surface should be clipped very short, the plant thoroughly watered with +rain water, and allowed to drain for a few hours. The seeds should be +sown a few at a time, on the point of a knife or thin strip of hard wood +or ivory, and carefully and evenly distributed over the surface of the +material in which the selected plant is growing. In all cases the number +of the record in the stock-book should be attached, a small celluloid +tablet fastened by a thin wire being the best label, as it is clean and +durable. Hybrids of Laelia, Cattleya, and other true epiphytes should be +suspended in a warm, intermediate house, and Cypripediums and +terrestrial Orchids may be sown in a similar manner in the pots of +either the seed-bearing subject or similar kinds and placed in a moist, +sheltered corner of a house, in which a genial warmth is maintained, the +plants being elevated on inverted flower-pots. Once the seeds are sown, +the plants fostering them should never be allowed to get dry. + +Odontoglossum seeds come up best when sown on the surface of established +plants in the manner described. To ensure the best results two or three +sowings of each should be made, and the plants bearing the freshly sown +seeds placed in different parts of the house, some being suspended and +others placed on the stage. + +The maintenance of a continual and even amount of moisture after sowing, +and until the seedling plants send forth roots, is of the highest +importance. To water either with a spouted or a rose pot overhead would +wash the seeds away. To avoid this, some resort to the practice of +dipping the plants on which the seeds are sown, allowing the water to +reach only to within an inch of the surface of the compost. This is +better than watering overhead. Spraying with rain-water is an excellent +means of securing uniform moisture, although it requires more care and +attention than dipping. The sprayer is a great help in all stages of +seedling Orchid growth, not only as a means of conveying moisture +direct, but by spraying around the plants and on the staging it is a +great aid to maintaining a moist atmosphere. Let the moisture be +conveyed in whatever manner it may, it must not be forgotten that the +seeds will perish soon after germination if allowed to get quite dry, +either from failure of moisture in the material on which they are sown, +or from an excessively dry air surrounding them. Against the +above-mentioned practice of sowing the seeds on established plants, it +is urged that in that way there is no certain means of keeping the +different crosses from being mixed, by reason of the seeds of one kind +getting into the water-tank and being thus conveyed and mixed with +others; and by seeds falling from plants suspended overhead and coming +up on plants beneath, and in other unexpected places. Such acquisitions, +though often very acceptable, are puzzling, as there is no record of +their origin, or if they come up amongst seeds which have a record, the +chance introductions sometimes have a wrong parentage assigned to them. + +[Illustration: PLATE VI + +CYMBIDIUM LOWIO-EBURNEUM + +(This plant has been commended for its culture on two separate occasions +by the R.H.S.)] + +To lessen such risks, it is the custom of some growers to arrange a +seed-raising case, constructed like an ordinary propagating case, in +form like a miniature lean-to, or span-roofed Orchid house. This is +arranged over a part of the staging where there is a slight warmth from +the hot-water pipes. The staging has a few inches of cocoa-nut fibre, or +chopped Osmunda fibre, fine ballast, or other moisture-holding +substance, and on this a number of inverted flower-pots are closely +arranged to form stands for the pots or pans in which the material for +sowing the seeds on is placed: or a light, open wood-work staging is +arranged. The favourite surface for sowing the seeds on is prepared by +stretching a small square of coarse calico or fine light muslin shading +material over a ball of Sphagnum-moss, and pressing it into a 60 or +small 48 size flower-pot, so that the unwrinkled convex surface of the +ball has the centre just below the level of the rim of the pots, the +sides being lower. These are thoroughly soaked and allowed to drain +before sowing the seeds on them, and they are then placed on the +inverted pots in the case. The covering of the case is sometimes of the +nature of hinged sashes to lift from the front, but the most convenient +and best covering is that formed of sheets or panes of glass cut about +one foot wide and of a length sufficient to cover the frame, by resting +one end on a groove in the front side of the case, and the other on the +top bar. A sufficient number of these sheets of glass should be provided +to cover the frame; they are excellent, as they give a certain means of +continual ventilation in some degree through the laps of the glass, even +when closed, and they may be closely or openly arranged to regulate the +amount of air admitted. Such pieces of glass can easily be removed to +inspect the seedlings. + +What is commonly called "coddling" causes great mortality among Orchids, +and in this particular the use of seedling cases, if not very carefully +and sensibly worked is less likely to be satisfactory than sowing the +seeds on plants growing in the houses. Too much heat is very harmful. +Odontoglossums proved difficult to raise at first, and this was mainly +because the seedlings were kept too warm and close. If the cultures are +carried on in the Odontoglossum house, success is generally attained, +although the products are seldom so numerous as in Cattleya, Laelia, and +Cypripedium hybrids. + +Another plan adopted by some growers, and with tolerable success, is to +place squares of Osmunda fibre in pans, and after soaking them, sow the +seed on them. Others have discs of soft wood, such as Willow, cut across +the grain and placed in flower-pots or pans with the fibre of the +wood-grain uppermost; after soaking the discs, the seeds are sown on +them. When not raised in glass cases, round or square pieces of glass +are placed on the pots. Indeed, there is ample evidence that, provided +good seeds are sown and placed in a suitable temperature, Orchid seeds +germinate readily. The first sign of vitality is given by the good seeds +assuming a green appearance; in time they become little spherical green +bodies, which later produce a growing point; in due course the true root +appears, and the little plants are ready for pricking off or +transplanting into previously prepared store pots prepared with a good +drainage of small crocks or broken charcoal in the bottom, some Osmunda +fibre or other Orchid potting material, and an inch or so of very fine +compost formed of decayed leaves, Osmunda fibre, or good Orchid peat and +Sphagnum-moss in equal parts, the whole rubbed together through a fine +sieve. Some add a proportion of sand to this compost. The whole should +be thoroughly well watered before the tiny seedlings are placed a +quarter of an inch or so apart in small holes in the surface of the +compost and sprayed to settle them in position. Up to this stage the +greatest mortality is observed. Wide crosses between species of +dissimilar nature, and which have up to the production of the growth +point or root appeared to be doing well, having shown that they did not +belong to the unfertile, suddenly collapse. Those which have taken a +long time to germinate have fallen victims to the minute fungi, and +other low forms of vegetable organism, which, commencing at one or two +spots, have gradually overgrown the surface of the pot and destroyed +them. The stronger are often destroyed by small insects, while drip, +however carefully guarded against, claims its share of the spoil. These +things are specially vexing to the amateur who is working in a small +way. To the expert cultivator who has a multitude of subjects in hand, +and whose methods and appliances mitigate the evils, the losses are not +so serious, for when Orchid seeds germinate freely they provide for +losses when sown on a large scale. Nothing is gained by removing the +little seedlings from the seed pot or basket too early. If thriving, +they should be left until they are large enough to be handled safely. +But where there is overcrowding, or "damping off," or decay from fungus, +it is best to remove some or all of the little seedlings in any stage of +growth to the store-pots. + +The store-pots should be returned to the seedling case, or placed on a +shelf near the glass in a warm, moist house, where the seedlings should +increase in size until they are ready to remove to fresh store-pots, +when they may be given more room; or if large enough, they may be placed +singly in thimble pots, or three or four seedlings may be placed round +the rims of thumb pots. + +Seedling Odontoglossums, when large enough to occupy thimble pots, are +found to thrive well when the pots are fixed in pans or shallow +seed-boxes in Sphagnum-moss, and placed on a shelf near the glass in the +Odontoglossum house, where, like other seedling Orchids, they should be +lightly sprayed several times each day in fine, warm weather, and as +often as may be deemed necessary in colder and dull weather. + +From the time the little plants are established in small pots until +their flowering stage, it is only a matter of ordinary culture, +although, as a rule, the small seedlings are safer with four or five +degrees more heat than is afforded the established plants. In the matter +of growth from the seedling stage to the flowering plant, there is but +little need of a resting season, even with species such as are deciduous +when mature, although a diminished supply of water may be given for a +short time to any which, having completed a growth, show no sign of +developing a fresh one. In most cases, a thorough drying, even if it +does not destroy a seedling, causes the flowering season to be delayed +by a year, or even longer. + +The careful shading of the seedling house is a very important matter. +Very young plants do best in a subdued light, and until they are quite +strong plants they should not be exposed to direct sunlight. A hot +summer often kills even the plants which have been brought +satisfactorily through a long winter. It is, therefore, advisable to +have on the seedling house, in addition to the lath roller blind, +running on supports carrying it well above the glass of the roof, either +a second lath roller blind running an inch or so above the glass and +beneath the upper one, or a permanent thin cotton shading, which may be +tacked on in spring and left until autumn; or, preferably, so fitted +that it can be rolled up when it is not required. + + +SELECTION OF SUBJECTS FOR HYBRIDISING + +The best varieties procurable should always be selected for hybridising, +it having been proved that crosses originally made with indifferent +varieties are much finer when raised again from more carefully selected +varieties. + +There seems to be no certain limit to the possibility of crossing; even +the most dissimilar genera may be crossed with some probability of +getting a successful result. + + +POTTING MATERIAL FOR HYBRID ORCHIDS + +From the time the little plants are well established in single pots, the +same potting material used for all of their kind may be employed, the +plants in the earlier stage having the potting material in a finer +condition than that provided for the larger plants as they approach the +flowering stage. + +As with other important operations, in Orchid potting and in the +material used the practice varies considerably, even in the best +collections, and this points to the fact that if the accommodation is +good, the houses properly heated, and other details of culture carefully +carried out, the exact composition of the potting material is of minor +importance. For Cattleya and Laelia hybrids and a large number of +epiphytes grown with them the compost is made by tearing up the +materials with the hand, or in some other way which will not break the +fibres very much. Osmunda fibre forms one-half to two-thirds of the +compost, the other third being made up of good Sphagnum-moss and Oak +leaves or other decayed, dryish leaves. We do not recommend leaf-soil or +leaf-mould, which was formerly strongly advocated, especially by +Continental growers, who used it with disastrous results. The most that +is done now is to mix a proportion of it with other potting material for +Lycastes, Calanthes, Phaius, and similar strong-growing terrestrial +Orchids. + +For mixing with the compost for hybrid Orchids, some use crushed crocks, +sand, charcoal, and a small proportion of each or either may be employed +safely, although there is no real need for such materials. + +Polypodium fibre may also be substituted for Osmunda fibre, or a +proportion of each may be used. Orchid peat fibre, which used to be the +chief potting material for Orchids, is still perhaps as good as any of +the other fibres, provided a really good quality can be obtained, a +matter which has become increasingly difficult. + +For Cypripediums, and especially Selenipediums, a proportion of good, +fibrous loam should be added to the compost recommended for epiphytal +Orchids, the proportion of loam being increased as the plants get +larger. Phaius, Calanthes, Zygopetalums, Zygocolax, and other plants of +a similar character should also have a proportion of loam-fibre in the +compost, and in these cases Orchid peat may be substituted for Osmunda +fibre, if it is of good quality. So far as it has been tested, Osmunda +fibre has an advantage over other fibres, in that it is more durable, +retaining its fibre intact longer than any other. Osmunda fibre and +Polypodium fibre in equal proportions, with an addition of leaves and +Sphagnum-moss, make an excellent material for all young, epiphytal +Orchids, the finer Polypodium fibre, if well worked in, giving substance +to the more open Osmunda fibre. + +For very small plants it is well to rub the mixture through a coarse +sieve, but after the early stages the use of the sieve should be +discontinued, and the compost carefully mixed with the hands. + + + + +CHAPTER XX + +ENUMERATION OF THE PRINCIPAL GENERA AND SPECIES IN CULTIVATION + + +~Acanthophippium.~--A small genus of terrestrial plants with oblong +pseudo-bulbs, and broad, plicate leaves. Scape erect, flowers +ventricose, yellow and reddish-purple. Warm house. Pot in equal parts of +turfy loam, peat, and leaves. Rest dry after the leaves fade and growth +is completed. The most familiar species are _A. bicolor_, _A. +javanicum_, and _A. striatum_. + +~Acineta.~--The species of Acineta are epiphytal Orchids with stout +pseudo-bulbs and broad, coriaceous leaves. The flowers are produced in +pendulous racemes; they are fleshy, whitish, or yellow, and spotted +with purple or brown. They should be grown in baskets suspended in the +intermediate house. _A. Barkeri_, _A. densa_, and _A. Humboldtii_ are +free-growing species. + +~Acropera.~ _See_ ~Gongora~. + +~Ada.~--Cool-house genus from Colombia. Leafy evergreen plants with +racemes of orange-scarlet flowers. _Ada aurantiaca_ is almost the sole +representative of the genus in gardens, and should be grown even in the +smallest collections. + +~Aeranthus.~ _See_ ~Angraecum~. + +~Aerides.~--A large genus of evergreen Orchids with distichously arranged, +leathery, green leaves, the stem producing air-roots freely. Natives of +India, the Malay Archipelago, and other parts of that region, extending +to Japan. + +All the species of Aerides may be grown in pots, crocked from one-half +to two-thirds of the way up, the old stems of the plants, when long, +being placed in the pots before the crocks are filled in. The surface +should be of good living Sphagnum-moss, and the plants should be +liberally watered from the end of February or beginning of March until +autumn, when the supply of water should be restricted according to the +condition of growth of the plants. Those which have finished their +growth and are not showing new leaves in the centre should be given the +least supply, but it is not advisable to dry any off completely, unless +for some reason they have to be kept comparatively cool throughout the +winter, when they are safest if kept tolerably dry. The smaller species +may be grown in baskets with advantage when convenient--indeed, the +true epiphytal character of the whole genus would suggest that method as +the better, but experience has proved that they may be equally well +grown in pots. The warm house, or warm end of the intermediate house, +suits all the species, but _A. japonicum_ may be grown in the cool +house. Most of the species have white and rose-coloured flowers, and +they are very fragrant. + +_A. odoratum_, one of the oldest of garden Orchids, is one of the best +and most free-growing species. _A. crispum_, _A. crassifolium_, _A. +Fieldingii_, _A. Houlletianum_, _A. falcatum_, _A. Lawrenciae_, _A. +multiflorum_ in its many forms, _A. quinquevulnera_, _A. suavissimum_, +and _A. virens_ are the best for amateurs. + +_A. cylindricum_ and _A. Vandarum_ have terete leaves like _Vanda +teres_, the former with white flowers, having a fleshy yellow and red +lip, and the latter, which is more membraneous in substance, being +white. Although often confused with each other in gardens, there is +little resemblance between these two species. + +~Aganisia.~--This genus thrives best in Orchid pans in the intermediate +house, in the ordinary compost used for epiphytal Orchids, with an +addition of leaves. Place the plants in a moist situation. + +_A. caerulea_ is of trailing habit, and has blue and white flowers. _A. +ionoptera_ is white and purple, and _A. lepida_ white. + +~Angraecum.~--A large genus chiefly from Africa and Madagascar, and +requiring similar treatment to Aerides. Botanists have divided the genus +into Aeranthus, Listrostachys, Mystacidium, &c., but for garden purposes +the one generic title suffices. The flowers of nearly all the species +are white and fragrant, many of them being furnished with long, greenish +spurs. + +A representative selection could be made with _A. arcuatum_, _A. +Ellisii_, _A. Humblotii_, _A. infundibulare_, _A. Kotschyi_, _A. +modestum_, _A. Scottianum_, _A. superbum_ (_eburneum_), and _A. +sesquipedale_, the last-named Madagascar species being the finest of the +genus. + +~Anguloa.~--Colombian and Peruvian Orchids of strong growth, and similar +in habit to Lycaste. The flowers are usually produced singly on upright +stems. Pot in two-thirds peat and one-third Sphagnum-moss or Osmunda +fibre. When good loam fibre can be obtained, a small proportion may be +added. Intermediate house. Rest tolerably dry and cool after growth is +completed. _A. Clowesii_, yellow; _A. Ruckeri_, yellow and dark-red; _A. +uniflora_ and its variety _eburnea_, white. + +~Anoectochilus.~--A dwarf genus with fleshy, creeping stems and very +handsomely marked leaves. The plants should be grown in shallow Orchid +pots, using a mixture of one-third peat, and loam and leaves in equal +parts well mixed together, adding some finely broken crocks. The plants +should be placed in a moist corner, or suspended in a shady part of a +warm, moist house. They root along the stems, and may be increased by +cutting the leading portions with a root or two and leaving the bases to +break into new growth. + +With the Anoectochili, and often under the same generic title, are +usually associated _Dossinia marmorata_ (_A. Lowii_), with broadly +ovate, olive-green, veined leaves; _Macodes Petola_, emerald-green +veined with gold; _Haemaria discolor_, dark bronzy-red veined with copper +colour, often named _Goodyera Dawsoniana_, and plants of similar +character. The flowers of most of the species are white. They are +sometimes grown in plant cases, or under bell glasses, but if the proper +position in a warm, moist house can be found, they are better without +these coverings. Propagation renews the vigour of the plants and +prevents them degenerating, as they often do in cultivation if left +undisturbed for too long a period. + +~Ansellia.~--A fine genus of some half-dozen species peculiar to Natal and +Tropical Africa, and growing from one to six feet in height, the leafy +pseudo-bulbs having at the top fine, branched spikes of yellow flowers, +more or less barred or spotted with purple. Pot as for epiphytal +Orchids, and grow in the intermediate house. Water the roots liberally +until the flowering is past, and then rest the plants in cool and dry +conditions. + +_A. africana_ is not only most commonly grown, but it is one of the +finest species. Others, some of which are mere varieties of _A. +africana_, are _A. confusa_, _A. gigantea_, _A. nilotica_, and _A. +congoensis_. + +~Arachnanthe.~--This is a small genus of warm-house plants possessing +extraordinary habits, and including the Bornean _A. Lowii_ (_Vanda +Lowii_), a very strong-growing species which bears drooping racemes of +greenish-white flowers barred with red. The two basal blooms are +dissimilar or dimorphic both in shape and colour, being tawny yellow +spotted with purple. The plants should be grown in pots or baskets as +Aerides. Other species are _A. Cathcartii_ (Himalaya) and _A. +moschifera_ (Malaya). _A. Cathcartii_ will thrive in the intermediate +house. + +~Barkeria.~--The Barkerias form a section of Epidendrums. They should be +grown in baskets or suspending pans in the cool intermediate house. They +require a dry and cool resting period. + +~Bartholina.~--The Bartholinas are dwarf, terrestrial Orchids of South +Africa. They should be potted in loam, peat, and sand, and cultivated on +a greenhouse shelf. Rest dry and cool. _B. pectinata_ is the only +species in gardens. + +~Batemannia~ and ~Bollea~. _See_ ~Zygopetalum~. + +~Bifrenaria.~--Pot these as recommended for epiphytal Orchids, and grow +them in the intermediate house. _B. Harrisoniae_ is the finest species. +Others worthy of cultivation are _B. aurantiaca_, _B. bicornaria_, _B. +inodora_, _B. tyrianthina_, and _B. vitellina_. + +~Brassia.~--The Brassias are epiphytal Orchids of South America, and may +be grown in the intermediate house. The most familiar species are _B. +brachiata_, _B. caudata_, _B. Lawrenceana_, and _B. verrucosa_. + +~Broughtonia.~--_B. sanguinea_ is a pretty, crimson-flowered species from +Jamaica. _B. lilacina_ is also a fine species, though rarely seen in +gardens. Broughtonias should be grown on bare rafts suspended in the +warm or intermediate house. + +~Brassavola.~--A small genus with white, fragrant flowers. _B. Digbyana_, +a species with large, fringed-lipped flowers, has been much used by the +hybridist. Brassavolas may be grown with the Cattleyas. + +~Bulbophyllum.~--A widely distributed genus which may be divided into two +sections--the deciduous, chiefly Burmese, requiring a dry resting +season; and the evergreen, which should not be strictly dried off. All +the species thrive in a warm, intermediate house, with cooler rest for +the deciduous and highland species. The genus is one of the most varied +and remarkable, and full collections of them are grown by some amateurs. + +~Calanthe.~--These are terrestrial Orchids, which may be divided into two +sections--the evergreen of the _C. veratrifolia_ class; and the +deciduous, comprising _C. vestita_, _C. Veitchii_, and numerous other +species and hybrids which are extensively grown for flowering in winter. +Pot them in a compost of one-half fibrous loam, one-fourth +Sphagnum-moss, and one-fourth leaves, with a sprinkling of sand. Rest +the deciduous section dry after flowering, and repot them when growth +commences in spring. Water liberally with occasional applications of +liquid manure, which should be withheld when the growth is completed. + +~Catasetum.~--The Catasetums are curious, epiphytal Orchids, which should +be grown in baskets, or Orchid pans, suspended in the intermediate +house, and treated in a similar manner to the deciduous Dendrobiums. +They require a long, dry rest after the growths are completed. All the +species are worthy of cultivation, _C. Bungerothii_, _C. splendens_, and +_C. macrocarpa_ being the more showy kinds. + +~Cattleya.~--One of the largest, most varied, and florally beautiful +genera of Orchids. The plants should be potted as recommended for +epiphytal Orchids, and they should be grown in the intermediate house. +The _C. labiata_ section, including _C. Gaskelliana_, _C. Mossiae_, _C. +Mendelii_, _C. Dowiana_ and its variety _aurea_, _C Warscewiczii_, _C. +Warneri_, and _C. Schroederae_ in succession, produce flowers for the +greater part of the year. _C. citrina_ should be grown in the cool +house, suspended from the roof. Cattleyas and Laelias are impatient of a +close atmosphere, and therefore the proper ventilation of the house in +which they are grown is an important matter. _C. Trianae_, var Hydra, is +illustrated in Plate IV. + +~Chysis.~--A small genus of intermediate-house epiphytes, comprising _C. +bractescens_, white; _C. aurea_ and _C. laevis_, yellow and red; _C. +Limminghei_, and several hybrids. + +~Cirrhopetalum.~--A section of Bulbophyllum, of similar habit, and +requiring similar treatment. The curiously formed flowers frequently +have the upper segments fringed, and the lateral ones approached and +continued into slender tails. + +~Cirrhaea.~--Allied to Gongora, and requiring similar treatment. + +~Cochlioda.~--A compact-growing genus to be grown with the Odontoglossums. +_C. Noezliana_, scarlet, has been a fine species in the hands of the +hybridiser, and in the future may give us "Scarlet Odontoglossums." _C. +vulcanica_ has deep rose-coloured flowers. + +~Coelia.~--There are several species of Coelia, and they require to be +grown in the intermediate house. + +~Coelogyne.~--A very large genus of two distinct sections, that +represented by _C. cristata_ being evergreen; the Pleione or Indian +crocus section deciduous, and requiring to be treated as terrestrial +Orchids, while the larger section are epiphytal. The epiphytal sections +are warm and intermediate house plants. The Pleiones should be grown in +a cool house, and rested quite dry after the leaves fade and until +growth again commences. + +[Illustration: PLATE VII + +ONCIDIUM MARSHALLIANUM] + +~Comparettia.~--These are small-growing epiphytes. Grow in small baskets +or hanging pans in the intermediate house. _C. falcata_, red, _C. +macroplectron_, pale rose; spotted; and _C. speciosa_, scarlet, are the +best species. + +~Colax.~--A small genus of cool-house Orchids allied to Lycaste, and +requiring similar treatment. _C. jugosus_ has been crossed with +Zygopetalums with good results. + +~Coryanthes.~--These are similar in habit to Stanhopea. The plants should +be grown in baskets suspended in the intermediate house. The structure +of the large, fleshy flowers is most remarkable, and some interesting +particulars relating to their fertilisation by insect aid have been +recorded in the _Gardeners' Chronicle_ (July 17, 1897, p. 31). + +~Cycnoches.~--Of similar habit and requirements to Catasetum. The plants +are best grown in baskets and suspended. They should be rested cool and +dry with the deciduous Dendrobiums. _C. chlorochilon_ (Swan Orchid), _C. +Egertonianum_, _C. Loddigesii_, _C. maculatum_, _C. peruvianum_, and _C. +pentadactylon_ are fine species. + +~Cymbidium.~--These are showy, large-growing Orchids for the intermediate +house or warm conservatory. Pot the plants in equal proportions of +fibrous loam, peat, and Sphagnum-moss. _C. giganteum_, _C. Lowianum_, +_C. grandiflorum_, and _C. Tracyanum_ are the most commonly grown. _C. +eburneum_, _C. Mastersii_, _C. insigne_, and _C. erythrostylum_ are +fine, white species, the latter two with rose markings on the lip. There +are numerous hybrids. _C. Lowio-eburneum_, a cross from _C. Lowianum_, +and _C. eburneum_ is illustrated in Plate VI. + +~Cynorchis.~--Terrestrial Orchids from Tropical Africa and Madagascar, +requiring to be grown in the warm house in moist and shady conditions. +The flowers are generally of rose colour. + +~Cypripedium.~--This is one of the largest, most useful, and most prolific +genera, which, although commonly known in gardens as Cypripedium, may be +divided into several distinct classes. Most of those generally known in +gardens as Cypripediums have been termed Paphiopedilum, including _C. +barbatum_, and _C. Rothschildianum_, and the green-leafed class, more +commonly known in gardens as Selenipedium, are now termed +Phragmopedilum. The name Cypripedium, however, has so firm a hold on +cultivators that it is convenient to retain it in gardening handbooks. + +The Cypripediums have very numerous hybrids, and their numbers increase +annually. An enumeration is therefore impossible within the scope of +this work. All require to be treated as terrestrial Orchids, a +proportion of fibrous loam (see the chapter on potting terrestrial +Orchids) being added in proportion to the strength of the subject, the +largest proportion being given to the strongest growers. The +Selenipedium, or green-leafed section, should be potted in fibrous loam, +with a sprinkling of leaves and Sphagnum-moss. _C. insigne_, _C. +Spicerianum_, _C. Charlesworthii_, and others of the class, also hybrids +of them, may be grown in the cool house. _C. Rothschildianum_, _C. +Stonei_, and the whole of that section require the highest temperature, +but all may be grown successfully in an intermediate house. _C. insigne +Sanderae_ is illustrated in Plate I. + +~Cyrtopodium.~--A strong-growing genus needing to be grown in the +intermediate house. The plants should be potted as terrestrial Orchids. +_C. punctatum_ is the showiest and most easily grown species. + +~Dendrobium.~--One of the largest and most decorative genera of epiphytal +Orchids, comprising several hundred species and a large number of +hybrids. Primarily the genus may be divided into two classes--the +evergreen; and the deciduous, which lose their leaves after the +completion of the growths, and should have a protracted dry resting +season. The evergreen species have a shorter and less rigorous resting +season accorded them. The deciduous class is exemplified by _D. nobile_, +_D. Wardianum_, _D. crassinode_, and the plants associated with them, +and their hybrids; and the evergreen species by _D. densiflorum_, _D. +Farmeri_, and _D. chrysotoxum_. _D. Wardianum_, with 264 flowers, is +illustrated in Plate III. + +Next, the genus may be divided into two further classes--those requiring +a high temperature, such as _D. Phalaenopsis_, _D. superbum_, _D. +atro-violaceum_, &c.; and those which may be grown comparatively cool, +which include _D. speciosum_ (an excellent plant for a sunny +conservatory), _D. moniliforme_ from Japan, _D. aggregatum_, _D. +Jenkinsii_, and many others. All the species require a high temperature, +moist atmosphere, and an abundance of water during the growing season, +but should be kept drier and cooler after the growth is completed to +prepare them for flowering. The species with pendulous growths should be +grown in baskets or suspended pans. + +~Diacrium.~--A section of Epidendrum, with hollow pseudo-bulbs, and white, +wax-like flowers. _D. bicornutum_ is a very fine species for the warm +house. + +~Disa.~--A genus of terrestrial Orchids from Africa, best represented in +gardens by the fine Scarlet _Disa grandiflora_, which, with the others +of its section, _D. racemosa_ and _D. tripetaloides_, have produced many +beautiful hybrids. These are cool-house plants, and should be potted in +a mixture of peat, Sphagnum-moss, sand, and loam fibre. They are +increased by offsets, and, when repotted soon after the flowering +season, the strong growths should be potted on for flowering, and the +smaller ones placed together in store pans. Free drainage should be +provided, and the plants liberally watered until they flower. After this +stage, cultivation in a cold frame for a few weeks before repotting and +returning the plants to the cool house will benefit them. + +The _D. graminifolia_ or Blue Disa section do not increase by stolons. +They are heath plants, and should be potted in sandy peat, and kept +quite dry when they lose their leaves. + +~Epidendrum.~--There are over 400 known species of this genus. _E. +vitellinum_ is a fine orange-coloured, cool-house species. All may be +grown in the intermediate house. _E. O'Brienianum_, _E. radicans_, and +_E. Boundii_ are fine plants for covering the ends of houses and back +walls. + +~Eria.~--An interesting genus, comprising many curious, and some very +pretty species. They are epiphytes, and should be grown in the +intermediate house. The deciduous species need to be kept dry when at +rest. + +~Eriopsis.~--These are epiphytal Orchids from South America. They should +be grown in the intermediate house, and they need moisture and shade. +_E. biloba_ and _E. rutidobulbon_ are the best-known species. + +~Eulophia.~--A large genus in which both evergreen and terrestrial plants +are represented. Grow them in the intermediate house. + +~Eulophiella.~--The genus includes two species from Madagascar, _E. +Elisabethae_, white, and _E. Peetersiana_, rose. Grow them in a moist +position of the warm house, giving them a liberal supply of rain-water. + +~Galeandra.~--These are deciduous epiphytes, needing similar cultivation +to Catasetum. + +~Gomeza.~--Allied to Odontoglossum. The flowers are yellowish, and are +produced in racemes. Intermediate-house plants. + +~Gongora.~--Intermediate-house Orchids, which should be grown in baskets +or suspending pans to allow of the full production of their long +flower-spikes. + +~Grammatophyllum.~--A genus of strong-growing epiphytal Orchids for the +warm house. _G. speciosum_ is a gigantic Malayan species. + +~Grobya.~--Brazilian Orchids represented by _G. galeata_ and _G. +Amherstiae_. Intermediate house. + +~Habenaria.~--Terrestrial Orchids. _H. militaris_ and _H. rhodocheila_ are +bright scarlet; _H. carnea_, flesh colour; _H. Susannae_, _H. Bonatea_, +and _H. Ugandae_, tall-growing, green and white. The two latter species +will grow in a cool house; the others need greater warmth. The North +American species are nearly hardy, and may be grown in a frame. + +~Houlletia.~--Fragrant epiphytal Orchids from South America. Intermediate +house. + +~Ionopsis.~--Pretty, slender, white and lilac species. Grow in small +baskets in the intermediate house. + +~Laelia.~--One of the largest and showiest genera, great favourites in +gardens, and fine subjects in the hands of the hybridiser. The Mexican +species _L. anceps_, _L. autumnalis_, _L. albida_, &c., used to be +allotted a special dryish intermediate house, but they are now usually +grown in the intermediate or Cattleya house, and rested in a cooler +vinery or corridor. All the species require the same treatment as +Cattleya. + +~Liparis.~--A genus of dwarf Orchids chiefly of botanical interest. +Intermediate house. + +~Lissochilus.~--Showy terrestrial Orchids, chiefly from South and Tropical +Africa. They should be grown in warm or cool conditions according to +their habitats. _L. Krebsii_ and _L. speciosus_ are two handsome, +cool-house species; _L. giganteus_, _L. Horsfallii_, and others of this +class require a warm house. Being marshy plants, they need weak, liquid +manure when growing. + +~Lueddemannia.~--A fine genus of strong, Acineta-like growth and pendulous +racemes of bronzy-orange coloured flowers. The growths are three to five +feet in length. The best species are _L. Lehmannii_, _L. Pescatorei_, +and _L. triloba_. Grow in baskets suspended in intermediate house. + +~Luisia.~--Terete-leafed Orchids that may be grown in the warm house with +the Aerides. + +~Lycaste.~--Most of the species thrive in the cool end of the intermediate +house. They have been grown successfully in a compost in which decayed +leaves formed the principal ingredient, the remainder being either +Sphagnum-moss, loam fibre, or peat, with a little sand or fine crocks +added. In some collections _L. Skinneri_ and some of the other species +are grown in the cool house. All the species require to be kept as cool +as possible in summer. + +~Masdevallia.~--Dwarf, tufted plants, with pretty and varied flowers, from +high ranges in South America. They should be grown in the cool or +Odontoglossum house. Pot them in equal proportions of Sphagnum-moss and +peat, with a little sand and fine crocks. The species of _M. chimaera_ +section should be grown in suspending baskets or pans, and given a +rather warmer situation than those of the showier _M. Harryana_ +(_coccinea_) and _M. Veitchiana_ sections, being placed in the cool end +of the intermediate house in winter. _M. tridactylites_, _M. +O'Brieniana_, _M. ionocharis_, and many others form an interesting +section of dwarf Orchids, with singular, insect-like flowers. The +Masdevallias require to be kept moist all the year, and are benefited by +occasional division when being repotted in spring or late summer. + +~Maxillaria.~--An extensive genus, widely distributed in South America, +and extending to the West Indies. All the species are intermediate-house +plants, requiring the ordinary potting material for epiphytes. The +flowers are varied in form and colour from the white _M. grandiflora_ +and _M. venusta_ to the large claret-blotched _M. Sanderiana_. Many of +the species have fragrant flowers. + +~Megaclinium.~--A singular genus from Tropical Africa, closely allied to +Bulbophyllum, their chief characteristic being the singular flat rachis +of the inflorescence, which bears a single row of insect-like, brownish +flowers on each side. _M. Bufo_, the type species, is probably not now +in gardens. _M. falcatum_ is the commonest, and _M. purpureorachis_, _M. +triste_, and several other species are sometimes seen. They should be +grown in the warm house in baskets or pans. + +~Microstylis.~--The species of Microstylis should be grown as terrestrial +Orchids in Sphagnum-moss and peat, with fine crocks added. Rest the +deciduous species in dry and cooler conditions. + +~Miltonia.~--The Miltonias are compact-growing South American epiphytes, +to be grown in pans elevated in a sheltered corner of the intermediate +house. Pot the plants in ordinary material for epiphytal Orchids, and +surface the compost with living Sphagnum-moss. _M. vexillaria_, _M. +Roezlii_, _M. Warscewiczii_, formerly included in Odontoglossum, form a +section requiring to be grown like Odontoglossums, but rather warmer. +This section has been found to thrive well with a good proportion of +leaves in the compost. _Miltonia vexillaria_, "Empress Victoria," is +illustrated in Plate II. + +~Mormodes.~--Grow these with the Catasetum and Cycnoches, and treat them +similarly by resting them dry. The genus is a singular one, the +curiously formed, generally fragrant flowers being very attractive. + +~Neobenthamia.~--_N. gracilis_ is an elegant, white-flowered, slender +species from Tropical Africa, and it should be grown in +warm-intermediate temperature. + +~Nephelaphyllum.~--Dwarf, terrestrial species for the warm house. Grow +with Anoectochilus. + +~Notylia.~--Graceful epiphytes for baskets and suspending pans. +Intermediate house. + +~Octomeria.~--A genus allied to Pleurothallis. The flowers are usually +white and rather small. + +~Odontoglossum.~--The Odontoglossums are deservedly the most extensively +grown genus of cool-house Orchids, the larger proportion of those in +gardens being represented by _O. crispum_ (illustrated in Plate VIII.), +one of the most beautiful of Orchids. The spotted forms often realise +very high prices. Cool, moist houses are provided for _O. crispum_ and +its section of Odontoglossum; in some gardens several houses are +allotted to the species. Given a suitable house and careful treatment, +the Odontoglossums are among the easiest Orchids to grow, and the most +certain to flower. All the species generally classed with _O. crispum_ +should be grown in well-drained pots. The compost in which they are +grown used to be formed exclusively of Orchid peat and Sphagnum-moss, +and, where these materials can be obtained of good quality they have +never been improved upon. There came a craze in some collections for +putting the Odontoglossums in leaf-soil, which ended in disaster, +although it indicated that a proportion of dry leaves (not leaf-soil) +may be used in the compost with advantage. Scarcity of good Orchid peat +brought about the introduction of Polypodium fibre and Osmunda fibre, +both excellent materials when prepared as recommended in the chapters on +Potting Epiphytal Orchids, and Hybrid Orchids. For the general repotting +of those requiring it September is the best month, but in early spring +the plants should be examined in order to repot those which need +immediate attention. The Odontoglossum house must be kept cool at all +seasons, and the necessity to have lower night temperatures must be +strictly recognised. Free ventilation should be provided, but at all +seasons when drying, east winds prevail, especially in winter and early +spring, the bottom ventilators should be only opened slightly, the top +ones being kept closed; the laps of the glass of the roof will admit +sufficient air. Moisture should be freely distributed about the house by +syringing beneath the staging and between the pots in summer, but in +winter the houses, if kept at the prescribed low temperature, will be +moist without much water being distributed. _Odontoglossum citrosmum_, +_O. Rossii_, _O. membranaceum_, and some other Mexican species should be +grown in baskets or pans; _O. coronarium_ and its varieties in oblong +baskets; _O. Londesboroughianum_ on rafts. Odontoglossums require +abundance of water, but are easily injured if allowed to get soddened. +Water should therefore be given systematically--a thorough watering, and +no more until the effect of it is passing and the still moist material +is sufficiently near the dry point. After flowering, a lessened supply +should also be given for a time, but the plants must not be dried off. +At this stage it is a good time to repot any requiring to be repotted. +In the cool houses, and indeed all the Orchid houses, observation should +be made as to the rapidity of evaporation of water from the floors and +staging. If the moisture evaporates too quickly and the floors and +stages become dry rapidly, it must be remembered that the conditions are +not favourable to sustaining the vitality of the plants in the house, +for, where rapid evaporation takes place, a similar process affects the +tissues of the plants. Means should be taken, either by lowering the +temperature or checking the ventilation, to sustain a lasting humidity +in the houses. + +~Oncidium.~--This is a large genus, most of the members being suitable for +cultivation in the intermediate house. _O. macranthum_ is a cool-house +plant, and _O. crispum_, _O. Forbesii_, _O. concolor_, _O. +Marshallianum_ (illustrated in Plate VII.), _O. varicosum_, and others +also do well in the cool house in baskets or suspended pans. _O. +Papilio_, _O. Kramerianum_, _O. Lanceanum_, and _O. ampliatum_ should +have a position in the warmest end of the intermediate house. Pot the +plants as epiphytal Orchids. Withhold water for a time after growth is +completed. + +~Paphinia.~--Small-growing epiphytes. Grow in baskets or pans in a warm, +moist house. + +[Illustration: PLATE VIII + +ODONTOGLOSSUM CRISPUM] + +~Phaius.~--Strong-growing, terrestrial Orchids for the intermediate house. +Pot them according to the directions in the chapter on the potting of +terrestrial Orchids. The species are evergreen, and require but a short +resting season. They require shade. + +~Phalaenopsis.~--These are warm-house species from the Philippines, Java, +Borneo, India, and other places. Pot the plants in Sphagnum-moss. They +succeed best when suspended, but if they are grown on the stage they +should be elevated on inverted pots. A moist atmosphere is essential. +_P. amabilis Rimestadiana_ will grow in the intermediate house; so will +also most of the other species, if placed in a moist corner. + +~Peristeria.~--The genus is best known in gardens by _P. elata_ (Dove +Orchid). The cultivation is similar to that for Phaius. + +~Physosiphon.~--A small genus allied to Stelis. _P. Loddigesii_ has +racemes of orange-coloured flowers. + +~Platyclinis.~--These are pretty, intermediate-house Orchids, with +pendulous racemes of white or yellow flowers, generally fragrant. + +~Pleione.~ _See_ ~Coelogyne~. + +~Pleurothallis.~--A large genus of elegant, dwarf-growing Orchids for the +intermediate house. + +~Promenaea.~ _See_ ~Zygopetalum~. + +~Renanthera.~--These showy species are natives of Tropical Asia and +Malaya. They should be grown like Aerides and Vandas. _R. Imschootiana_ +is a compact, free-growing species, with showy, crimson flowers. + +~Restrepia.~--A cool-house genus usually grown with the Masdevallias, and +requiring similar treatment. + +~Rodriguezia.~--This genus includes the species usually called +Burlingtonia in gardens. Suspend the plants in the intermediate house. +_R. secunda_ has rose-coloured flowers; most of the others are white, +and they are generally fragrant. + +~Rhyncostylis.~--These are warm-house plants, which are known usually as +Saccolabiums in gardens. The commoner species is _R. retusa_, with fine +racemes of blush-white flowers, spotted with purple; and the blue _R. +coelestis_. The cultivation is similar to Aerides. + +~Saccolabium.~--The Saccolabiums should be grown in a warm house like +Aerides. _S. bigibbum_ and others of its class are pretty, dwarf +species, with yellowish flowers spotted with purple and having a white +lip. + +~Sarcanthus.~--Allied to Saccolabium, and having similar cultural +requirements. + +~Sarcochilus.~--The species of Sarcochilus need to be grown in +Sphagnum-moss in the intermediate house. + +~Satyrium.~--Terrestrial Orchids chiefly from South Africa, needing +greenhouse treatment. The plants must be kept dry during the resting +period. + +~Schomburgkia.~--A strong-growing genus, requiring similar treatment to +Laelias and Cattleyas. The best position for them is a sunny situation in +the intermediate house. + +~Scuticaria.~--The Scuticarias are handsome, bulbless species, with long, +terete, pendulous leaves, and showy, yellowish flowers, blotched with +purple. They should be grown on rafts, or in baskets suspended in the +intermediate house. + +~Selenipedium.~ _See_ ~Cypripedium~. + +~Sobralia.~--The species of Sobralia are strong-growing, terrestrial +Orchids with reed-like stems, requiring abundance of water during the +period of growth. Intermediate house. _S. macrantha_ and its white +variety are best known. + +~Sophronitis.~--A dwarf genus, best known by _S. grandiflora_, which has +scarlet flowers, and has been used for crossing with Laelias and +Cattleyas. All the species are cool-house plants, needing cultivation in +pans or baskets suspended from the roof. The hybrids succeed best in the +intermediate house. + +~Spathoglottis.~--Terrestrial Orchids of similar growth to Bletia, +requiring a pronounced resting period. Intermediate house. Rest dry. + +~Stanhopea.~--A fine genus, with large, pendulous, wax-like flowers of +aromatic odour. They should be grown in baskets in the intermediate +house. Rest rather dry in a cool house or vinery. + +~Stauropsis.~--Stauropsis should be grown with Aerides and Vandas. The +genus is best known in gardens by _S. lissochiloides_ (_Vanda +Batemanii_) and _S. gigantea_. + +~Stelis.~--The plants in this genus possess similar growth to the dwarf +Pleurothallis, and require the same treatment. + +~Stenoglottis.~--_S. fimbriata_ and _S. longifolia_ are South African +terrestrial Orchids, needing similar conditions to Disa. + +~Tetramicra~ (_Leptotes_).--Dwarf species with white flowers, having rose +labellums. Intermediate house. + +~Thunia.~--A section of Phaius with erect, terete stems and deciduous +leaves. Grow them in a warm and moist house, but keep them cool and dry +during the resting period. + +~Trichocentrum.~--Dwarf, evergreen South American Orchids. Grow in pans +suspended in a shady part of the intermediate house. + +~Trichopilia.~--An ornamental, epiphytal genus, including Pilumna, the +white, fragrant _T. fragrans_, and its variety _nobilis_, representing +that section. _T. suavis_ is one of the showiest species. All are worthy +of a place in collections. Intermediate house. + +~Trichosma.~--_Trichosma suavis_ is a pretty, cool-house species, with +white, fragrant flowers. + +~Trigonidium.~--There are several curious species of Trigonidium, with the +sepals usually developed and arranged differently to Orchids generally. +Intermediate house. + +~Vanda.~--The genus is one of the largest and most interesting, and, like +the other large genera, it may be divided into several sections. The +largest-growing and best-known species are _V. tricolor_ and _V. +suavis_, which have white or yellowish flowers, spotted with purple, and +without any distinguishing botanical feature between them. _V. +coerulea_ is one of the finest blue Orchids; _V. Sanderiana_ one of +the handsomest; _V. insignis_, _V. lamellata_, _V. Denisoniana_, _V. +limbata_, and _V. Bensonii_ are all desirable kinds. _V. Kimballiana_, +_V. Amesiana_, and _V. Watsonii_ form a distinct section, with fleshy +leaves and erect spikes of pretty, white flowers, marked with rose in +the two first, and requiring to be grown, where possible, in baskets +suspended in the intermediate house. _V. teres_, _V. Hookeriana_, and +their hybrid _V. Miss Joaquim_, have erect stems, bearing terete leaves, +and fine, rose-coloured flowers. _V. alpina_, _V. cristata_, and _V. +pumila_ are pretty, dwarf species. All are generally grown together in +the warm or East Indian house, but it is an open question whether the +keeping of these plants and the Aerides and Saccolabiums continuously in +the same house is not the cause of the unsatisfactory condition of many +of them in gardens. Each section should be watched, and, when growth is +completed, a change should be given to a cool, intermediate house for a +couple of months. Aerides, Vandas, and Saccolabiums suffer most from +being kept too hot and close in winter. After spring opens the amount of +heat and moisture should be gradually increased. Directly they have +flowered, the tall plants which have lost their bottom leaves should be +lowered in the pots or baskets by being cut off at the base. +Dwarf-growing species should be brought well up to the light. _V. +coerulea_ grows well under the most dissimilar conditions, and with +it, as with many other Orchids, there is more in finding a suitable +place than in growing the plant. All require to be potted or basketed in +Sphagnum-moss. Some growers add a sprinkling of leaves. The _V. teres_ +section may be planted in Sphagnum-moss in a warm corner of the house, +or against the end of the house. If grown in pots, three or four should +be potted together and trained to a stout stick or teak rod. + +~Zygopetalum.~--Under Zygopetalum, several distinct sub-genera are +included. The largest-growing and showiest species include _Z. Mackayi_, +_Z. crinitum_, and other related species. These should be potted in +peat, Sphagnum-moss, and loam fibre in equal proportions, with a +sprinkling of leaves, and fine broken crocks added. During the growing +season occasional waterings with weak, liquid manure should be given; +and, after flowering, a rest with restricted water supply. Those that +need repotting should be attended to before growth begins, but they will +remain satisfactory for years in the same pots if carefully treated. + +There are many hybrids, especially of _Z. maxillare_, which should be +treated like the species. _Z. rostratum_ requires a warm, moist house. +The Promenaeas include _P. stapelioides_, _P. Rollissoni_, and _P. +xanthina_. These should be grown in shallow pans, either for suspending +or placing on a shelf near the glass of the roof. + +~Bollea~, ~Huntleya~, ~Pescatorea~, ~Batemannia~, ~and~ +~Warscewiczella~.--These are sectional names for a leafy class, with +rudimentary pseudo-bulbs. They are frequently mismanaged. The plants +should be grown in the potting materials recommended for epiphytal +Orchids, and surfaced with Sphagnum-moss. Being evergreen, and with no +superabundant vitality, they should be kept moist all the year, but +liberally watered when growing. A moist corner of the intermediate +house, or warm house, should be selected for them, each plant being +raised on an inverted pan or pot. When grown in the warm house, a rest +should be given in a cooler house after growth is completed, but the +plants must not be dried off. They may be propagated by division. All +require shade. Botanically they are placed under Zygopetalum. + + + + +CHAPTER XXI + +ORCHID HYBRIDS + + +It is impossible to enumerate the immense number of home-raised hybrids +in the scope of this book. It must therefore suffice to name some of the +principal genera which have been crossed, and a few of the best hybrids, +from the garden point of view. + +Too much cannot be said for the absorbing interest of raising hybrid +Orchids, which is referred to at length on p. 67. + +_Brassavola Digbyana_ has been one of the most satisfactory parents, +crossing readily with Cattleya and Laelia, and imparting to the hybrids +its large flowers and fringed lip. _B. glauca_ has also been useful. +_Brasso-Cattleya Digbyano-Mossiae_, "Westonbirt Variety," is illustrated +in Plate V. + +Calanthes have been wonderfully improved, so far as the deciduous, +winter-flowering kinds are concerned, by intercrossing, commencing with +_C. Veitchii_ (_rosea x vestita_) and now including all shades from pure +white to blood-red. + +Cattleya, Laelia, Sophronitis, and Brassavola have produced by +intercrossing numerous showy garden plants, some of them, as for example +_C. Iris_ (_C. bicolor x C. Dowiana_) and _Laelio-Cattleya +callistoglossa_ (_C. Warscewiczii x L. purpurata_), exhibiting great +variation in the colour of their beautiful flowers. + +Cymbidium has been enriched by the hybridist, the section Cyperorchis +being merged in true Cymbidium. _Cymbidium Lowio-eburneum_ is +illustrated in Plate VI. + +Dendrobium hybrids are among the most numerous and useful as decorative +flowers. + +Epidendrum has produced some satisfactory results, including _E. +O'Brienianum_ and _Epiphronitis Veitchii_ (_Sophronitis grandiflora x +Epidendrum radicans_). + +Cypripedium has been so prolific that there are amateurs who cultivate +them either exclusively or give the greater part of their accommodation +to the genus and its hybrids, which may be numbered by the hundred. + +Species of Masdevallia, Odontoglossum, Lycaste, Phaius, and Zygopetalum +have all been intercrossed, and the number of possible combinations +admits of incalculable development, especially as the crossing is not +confined to the same genus. Plants of distinct genera have been crossed +with each other, and in many cases the results have been unexpectedly +good, as for example the pretty, scarlet _Cochlioda Noezliana_, which +has been crossed successfully with several genera. Such facts as these +seem to indicate that there are but few combinations amongst the genera +of Orchideae cross-breeders may not attempt with a reasonable hope of +success. + + + + +INDEX + + +Acanthophippium, 81 + +Acineta, 81 + +Acropera, 82 + +Adapting ordinary plant-house for Orchid culture, 19 + +Aeranthus, 83 + +Aerides, 82 + +Aganisia, 83 + +Angraecum, 83 + +Anguloa, 84 + +Anoectochilus, 84 + +Ansellia, 85 + +Apostasieae, 6 + +Arachnanthe, 85 + + +Barkeria, 86 + +Bartholina, 86 + +Baskets and pots, culture in, 24 + +Batemannia and Bollea, 86, 108 + +Bifrenaria, 86 + +Bollea, 108 + +Brassavola, 86 + +Brassia, 86 + +_Brasso-Cattleya_ _Digbyano-Mossiae_ (Plate V.) + +Broughtonia, 86 + +Bulbophyllum, 86 + + +Calanthe, 87 + +Calanthe Dominyi, the first Orchid hybrid, 5, 67 + +Calanthes, deciduous, 38 + +Catasetum, 87 + +Cattleya, 87 + +_Cattleya Trianae_, var. _Hydra_ (Plate IV.) + +Cattleya fly, the, 48 + +Chysis, 88 + +Cirrhaea, 88 + +Cirrhopetalum, 88 + +Cochlioda, 88 + +Cochlioda noezliana crosses, 110 + +Cockroaches, how to entrap, 50 + +Coelia, 88 + +Coelogyne, 88 + +Colax, 91 + +Collecting wild Orchids, 60 + +Comparettia, 88 + +Compost for seedlings, 76-80 + +Conservatory, species for the, 52 + +Coryanthes, 91 + +Cut flowers, to preserve, 56 + +Cycnoches, 91 + +Cymbidium, 91 + +_Cymbidium Lowio-eburneum_ (Plate VI.) + +Cymbidiums for the conservatory, 54 + +Cynorchis, 91 + +Cypripedium, 91 + +_Cypripedium insigne Sanderae_ (_Frontispiece_) + +Cypripediums, structure of, 6 + +Cypripediums for the conservatory, 58 + +Cyrtopodium, 92 + + +Dendrobium, 92 + +_Dendrobium Wardianum_ (Plate III.) + +Dendrobium from cuttings, 35 + +Diacrium, 93 + +Difficulties to overcome, 8 + +Disa, 93 + +Diseases and Insect Pests, 47 + +Dossinia marmorata, 84 + +Durability of Orchid flowers, 56 + + +Enumeration of Principal Genera, 81 + +Epidendrum, 94 + +Epidendrum Boundii, 109 + +Epidendrum O'Brienianum, 109 + +Epiphronitis Veitchii, 109 + +Eria, 94 + +Eriopsis, 94 + +Eulophia, 94 + +Eulophiella, 94 + +Evaporation from lower stage, 15 + +Evaporation, test, 100 + + +Fertilising Orchids, 68 + +Floor of natural earth, 9, 15 + +Floor of wood trellis, 9 + + +Galeandra, 95 + +Genera and Species, 81 + +Glazing, 11 + +Gomeza, 94 + +Gongora, 95 + +Goodyera Dawsoniana, 85 + +Grammatophyllum, 95 + +Grobya, 95 + + +Habenaria, 95 + +Haemaria discolor, 84 + +Heating Orchid houses, 16 + +Hot-water piping, 16 + +Houlletia, 95 + +Huntleya, 108 + +Hybridising and raising seedlings, 67 + + +Importing of Orchids, 59 + +Insecticides, 48, 49 + +Introduction, 1 + +Ionopsis, 95 + + +Label, the best form of, 31 + +Labelling the plants, 30 + +Laelia, 95 + +Leaves, removal of damaged, 32 + +Leaves, use of, in potting compost, 24, 80, 99 + +Leptotes, 105 + +Liparis, 96 + +Liquid manure, 43 + +Lissochilus, 96 + +Listrostachys, 83 + +Lueddemannia, 96 + +Luisia, 96 + +Lycaste, 96 + + +Macodes Petola, 84 + +Manures for Orchids, 39 + +Masdevallia, 96 + +Maxillaria, 97 + +Megaclinium, 97 + +Metal injurious, 29 + +Microstylis, 97 + +Miltonia, 97 + +_Miltonia vexillaria_ (Plate II.) + +Mormodes, 98 + +Mystacidium, 83 + + +Neobenthamia, 98 + +Nephelaphyllum, 98 + +Night temperatures, 17, 18 + +Notylia, 98 + + +Octomeria, 98 + +Odontoglossum, 98 + +_Odontoglossum crispum_ (Plate VIII.) + +Odontoglossum, potting of, 99 + +Odontoglossum seedlings, 71-78 + +Odours of Orchids, 65 + +Oncidium, 100 + +_Oncidium Marshallianum_ (Plate VII.) + +Orchid-collecting, 108 + +Orchid flowers, structure of, 6 + +Orchid house, structure of, 9 + +Orchid house, the single, 19 + +Orchid hybrids, 108 + +Orchid, the first hybrid, 5 + +Orchids as cut flowers, 55 + +Orchids for baskets, 27 + +Orchids for the conservatory, 52 + +Orchids for pans, 27 + +Orchids for villa conservatory, 53 + +Orchids, suspending of, 27 + +Orchids, the earliest introductions of, 3, 4, 5 + +Osmunda fibre, 23, 80, 99 + + +Packing, systems of, 61 + +Painting interior of houses, 11 + +Paphinia, 100 + +Paraffin, need for avoiding use of, 49 + +Paths, methods of making, 9 + +Periodical inspection of plants, 50 + +Peristeria, 103 + +Pescatorea, 108 + +Phaius, 100 + +Phalaenopsis, 103 + +Physosiphon, 103 + +Plant-houses adapted for Orchids, 12-19 + +Platyclinis, 103 + +Pleione, 103 + +Pleurothallis, 103 + +Potting and basketing, methods of, 22 + +Potting material for hybrids, 79 + +Potting, old-time system of, 3 + +Promenaea, 103, 108 + +Propagation by division, 35 + + +Rain-water, the value of, 35 + +Raising seedling Orchids, 67 + +Renanthera, 103 + +Resting season, the, 37, 44 + +Restrepia, 103 + +Rhyncostylis, 104 + +Rise of Orchid culture, 3 + +Rockeries in Orchid house, 10 + +Rodriguezia, 103 + + +Saccolabium, 104 + +Sarcanthus, 104 + +Sarcochilus, 104 + +Satyrium, 104 + +Scale insects, 49 + +Schomburgkia, 104 + +Scuticaria, 104 + +Seed-raising, case for, 72-75 + +Seed-sowing, 70 + +Seed-storing, 169 + +Seedlings, damping off, 77 + +Seedlings in subdued light, 78 + +Seedlings, affording water to, 72 + +Seeds, Orchid, 69 + +Selection of subjects for cross-fertilisation, 79 + +Selenipedium, 92, 104 + +Shading, 21 + +Shading of houses containing seedlings, 78 + +Slugs and woodlice, 50 + +Sobralia, 104 + +Sophronitis, 104 + +Spathoglottis, 105 + +Spraying the plants, 37, 72 + +Staging for the plants, 12 + +Staking or fixing plants, 28 + +Stanhopea, 105 + +Stauropsis, 105 + +Stelis, 105 + +Stenoglottis, 105 + +Structure of the flowers, 6, 67 + +Structure of Orchid house, 9 + +Syringing, the need for, 37 + + +Tanks for storing water, 9 + +Tar, injurious effects of, 51 + +Tetramicra, 105 + +Temperatures, 17-20 + +Terrestrial species, packing of, 62 + +Thrips, destructiveness of, 48 + +Thunia, 105 + +Treatment of imported plants, 63 + +Trichocentrum, 105 + +Trichopilia, 105 + +Trichosma, 106 + +Trigonidium, 106 + + +Useless leaves and pseudo-bulbs, removal of, 31 + + +Vanda, 106 + +Vanda Batemanii, 105 + +Ventilation, 9 + + +Warscewiczella, 108 + +Watering epiphytal species, 35 + +Watering terrestrial species, 38 + +Wire injurious to the plants, 29 + + +Zygopetalum, 107 + +Zygopetalum, sections of, 108 + + +THE END + + +Printed by BALLANTYNE, HANSON & CO. + +Edinburgh & London + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Orchids, by James O'Brien + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ORCHIDS *** + +***** This file should be named 33593.txt or 33593.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/3/3/5/9/33593/ + +Produced by The Online Distributed Proofreading Team at +https://www.pgdp.net. 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