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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Orchids + +Author: James O'Brien + +Release Date: August 31, 2010 [EBook #33593] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ORCHIDS *** + + + + +Produced by The Online Distributed Proofreading Team at +https://www.pgdp.net. (This file was produced from images +generously made available by The Internet Archive/American +Libraries.) + + + + + + +</pre> + + + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/image1.jpg" width="600" height="337" alt="" title="" /> +</div> + +<h4>EDITED BY....</h4> + +<h3>R. HOOPER PEARSON</h3> + +<p class="center"> +MANAGING EDITOR<br /> +OF THE <i>GARDENERS' CHRONICLE....</i><br /> +<br /> +A LIST OF VOLUMES<br /> +IN THE SERIES IS<br /> +GIVEN ON THE NEXT<br /> +PAGE....<br /> +</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><i>Present-Day Gardening</i></h2> + +<h3>List of Volumes in the Series.</h3> + + +<div class="hangindent"><p> 1. SWEET PEAS. By <span class="smcap">Horace J. Wright</span>, +late Secretary and Chairman of the National Sweet Pea +Society. With Chapter on "Sweet Peas for Exhibition" by +<span class="smcap">Thos. Stevenson</span>.</p> + +<p>2. PANSIES, VIOLAS, AND VIOLETS. By <span class="smcap">William Cuthbertson, +J.P.</span>, and <span class="smcap">R. Hooper Pearson</span>.</p> + +<p>3. ROOT AND STEM VEGETABLES. By <span class="smcap">Alexander Dean, V.M.H.</span>, +Chairman of the National Vegetable Society.</p> + +<p>4. DAFFODILS. By the Rev. <span class="smcap">J. Jacob</span>, Secretary of the Midland +Daffodil Society, with Preface by the Rev. <span class="smcap">W. Wilks, M.A.</span>, +Secretary of the Royal Horticultural Society.</p> + +<p>5. ORCHIDS. By <span class="smcap">James O'Brien, V.M.H.</span>, Secretary of the +Orchid Committee of the Royal Horticultural Society.</p> + +<p>6. CARNATIONS AND PINKS. By <span class="smcap">T. H. Cook</span>, Head Gardener to +Queen Alexandra at Sandringham; <span class="smcap">James Douglas, V.M.H.</span>; and +<span class="smcap">J. F. M'Leod</span>, Head Gardener to Mr. J. Pierpont Morgan.</p> + +<p>7. RHODODENDRONS AND AZALEAS. (<i>The first popular volume +published on this subject.</i>) By <span class="smcap">William Watson, A.L.S.</span>, +Curator of the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew, with Preface by +Sir <span class="smcap">Fred. W. Moore, M.A., A.L.S., V.M.H.</span></p> + +<p>8. LILIES. By <span class="smcap">A. Grove, F.L.S.</span>, with Preface by <span class="smcap">H. J. Elwes, +F.R.S.</span></p> + +<p>9. APPLES AND PEARS. By <span class="smcap">George Bunyard, V.M.H.</span>, Chairman of +Fruit and Vegetable Committee of Royal Horticultural +Society.</p> + +<p>10. ROSES. By <span class="smcap">H. R. Darlington</span>, Vice-President of National +Rose Society. (Double volume.)</p> + +<p>11. IRISES. By <span class="smcap">W. Rickatson Dykes, M.A.</span>, L.-ès-L. With +Preface by <span class="smcap">Professor I. Bayley Balfour, D.Sc., F.R.S.</span>, &c.</p> + +<p>12. ANNUALS, HARDY AND HALF-HARDY. By <span class="smcap">C. H. Curtis</span>, Hon. +Sec. of the National Sweet Pea Society.</p> + +<p>13. CHRYSANTHEMUMS. By <span class="smcap">Thomas Stevenson</span>, with chapters by <span class="smcap">C. +Harman Payne</span> and <span class="smcap">Charles E. Shea</span>.</p> + +<p>14. TULIPS. By the Rev. <span class="smcap">J. Jacob</span>.</p> + +<p>15. THE ROCK GARDEN. By <span class="smcap">Reginald Farrer</span>, Author of "Among +the Hills," "My Rock Garden," "In a Yorkshire Garden," &c.</p></div> + +<p>These will be followed by volumes on <b>Dahlias</b>, <b>Climbers</b>, <b>Trees and +Shrubs</b>, <b>Pæonies</b>, <b>Primulas</b>, <b>Window Gardens</b>, <b>Cucumbers</b>, <b>Melons</b>, <b>Bedding +Plants</b>, <b>Hardy Herbaceous Plants</b>, <b>Ferns</b>, <b>Tomatoes</b>, <b>Bulbous Plants</b>, +<b>Peaches and Nectarines</b>, <b>Vines</b>, <b>Stove and Greenhouse Plants</b>, <b>&c.</b></p> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<p><a name="pl_1" id="pl_1"></a></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 469px;"> +<img src="images/plate1.jpg" width="469" height="650" alt="PLATE I (Frontispiece) + +CYPRIPEDIUM INSIGNE SANDERÆ" title="" /> +<span class="caption">PLATE I (<i>Frontispiece</i>)<br /> + +CYPRIPEDIUM INSIGNE SANDERÆ</span> +</div> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h1>Orchids</h1> + +<h2>By James O'Brien</h2> + +<h3>With Eight Coloured Plates</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/title.jpg" width="400" height="396" alt="" title="" /> +</div> + +<p class="center"> +London: T.C. & E.C. Jack<br /> +<br /> +67 Long Acre, w.c., & Edinburgh<br /> +</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_vii" id="Page_vii">[Pg vii]</a></span></p> +<h2>PREFACE</h2> + + +<p>In the early days of Orchid cultivation the idea was commonly +entertained that these interesting plants could never become popular +with the general public, for the reason that their culture involves a +great initial outlay and permanent expense. That such an idea is +incompatible with the facts is now admitted by all those who are most +familiar with the subject. There is no department of "Present-Day" +gardening that exhibits such wonderful progress as is shown in the +Orchid gardens and nurseries that are to be found in every portion of +these Isles.</p> + +<p>At the same time, the popularisation of Orchid culture is only now in +its very commencement. Amateurs are but just beginning to realise that +Orchids, like other plants, are capable of being understood by any one +who really desires to understand them; and, when once understood, the +cool species, at any rate, are not less tractable than common greenhouse +plants. So much is this the case that the author of the present volume +declares that even the house-holders in suburban districts who have but +one conservatory may, if they choose, keep that structure furnished with +Orchids at a less expenditure of time and money than is<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_viii" id="Page_viii">[Pg viii]</a></span> necessary for +the Palms, Ferns, and other species usually employed for the purpose.</p> + +<p>Orchid-growing in the past has been looked upon too much as a craze. +Ruinously high prices have been asked for novelties, and "collectors" +have been ready enough to pay them in the hope of obtaining unique +varieties. This fact alone has frightened off average people.</p> + +<p>It is hoped that the present volume will induce thousands to commence +the culture of the cooler species, as it clearly indicates the +simplicity of the cultural principles whilst explaining in full all the +principal details.</p> + +<p>Thanks to the experiments of former workers, we are no longer dependent +entirely on the introduction of plants from other countries. Seedling +Orchids are raised as freely as seedling Fuchsias, and home-raised +seedlings, as a rule, thrive better than introduced species in the +artificial cultivation we have to offer them. Readers will find the +details of cross-breeding and seed-raising set out in the following +pages at considerable length.</p> + +<p>The author is one of the greatest Orchid specialists the world has +known. As a practical cultivator in the old Pine Apple Nurseries of +Messrs. Henderson, he had the good fortune to flower many species for +the first time after their introduction, and ever since those early days +he has continued to specialise in these plants. He is secretary of the +Orchid Committee of the Royal Horticultural Society, and in 1897 he was +included in the first sixty horticulturists who were selected to +receive<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_ix" id="Page_ix">[Pg ix]</a></span> the Victoria Medal of honour in commemoration of Queen +Victoria's Jubilee.</p> + +<p>Our grateful acknowledgments are made to Lieut.-Col. Sir G. L. Holford, +K.C.V.O., for his kindness in affording us facilities for getting the +illustrations. Every plant illustrated is a first-rate specimen of its +kind, and all have been photographed in Sir George Holford's collection +at Westonbirt, which is so well cultivated by his grower, Mr. H. G. +Alexander.</p> + +<p> +<span style="margin-left: 30em;">THE EDITOR.</span><br /> +</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_xi" id="Page_xi">[Pg xi]</a></span></p> +<h2>CONTENTS</h2> + + +<p> +<span class="tocnum">PAGE</span><br /> +<br /> +<span class="smcap">Introduction</span>, <span class="tocnum"><a href='#Page_1'>1</a></span><br /> +<br /> +CHAP.<br /> +<br /> +I. <span class="smcap">The Rise and Progress of Orchid Culture</span>, <span class="tocnum"><a href='#Page_3'>3</a></span><br /> +<br /> +II. <span class="smcap">Structure of Orchid Flowers</span>, <span class="tocnum"><a href='#Page_6'>6</a></span><br /> +<br /> +III. <span class="smcap">Difficulties to Overcome</span>, <span class="tocnum"><a href='#Page_8'>8</a></span><br /> +<br /> +IV. <span class="smcap">Structure of the Orchid House</span>, <span class="tocnum"><a href='#Page_9'>9</a></span><br /> +<br /> +V. <span class="smcap">The Potting and Basketing Process</span>, <span class="tocnum"><a href='#Page_22'>22</a></span><br /> +<br /> +VI. <span class="smcap">Removing Useless Leaves and Bulbs</span>, <span class="tocnum"><a href='#Page_31'>31</a></span><br /> +<br /> +VII. <span class="smcap">Propagation by Division</span>, <span class="tocnum"><a href='#Page_34'>34</a></span><br /> +<br /> +VIII. <span class="smcap">Watering Epiphytal Orchids</span>, <span class="tocnum"><a href='#Page_35'>35</a></span><br /> +<br /> +IX. <span class="smcap">Manures for Orchids</span>, <span class="tocnum"><a href='#Page_39'>39</a></span><br /> +<br /> +X. <span class="smcap">Resting Orchids</span>, <span class="tocnum"><a href='#Page_44'>44</a></span><br /> +<br /> +XI. <span class="smcap">Specially Rare and Valuable Plants</span>, <span class="tocnum"><a href='#Page_46'>46</a></span><br /> +<br /> +XII. <span class="smcap">Diseases and Insect Pests</span>, <span class="tocnum"><a href='#Page_47'>47</a></span><br /> +<br /> +XIII. <span class="smcap">Periodical Inspection</span>, <span class="tocnum"><a href='#Page_50'>50</a></span><br /> +<br /> +XIV. <span class="smcap">Orchids for the Conservatory</span>, <span class="tocnum"><a href='#Page_52'>52</a></span><br /> +<br /> +XV. <span class="smcap">Orchids as Cut Flowers</span>, <span class="tocnum"><a href='#Page_55'>55</a></span><br /> +<br /> +XVI. <span class="smcap">Importing Orchids</span>, <span class="tocnum"><a href='#Page_59'>59</a></span><br /> +<br /> +XVII. <span class="smcap">Treatment of Imported Orchids</span>, <span class="tocnum"><a href='#Page_63'>63</a></span><br /> +<br /> +XVIII. <span class="smcap">Odours of Orchids</span>, <span class="tocnum"><a href='#Page_65'>65</a></span><br /> +<br /> +XIX. <span class="smcap">Hybridising and Raising Seedling Orchids</span>, <span class="tocnum"><a href='#Page_67'>67</a></span><br /> +<br /> +XX. <span class="smcap">Enumeration of the Principal Genera and Species in Cultivation</span>, <span class="tocnum"><a href='#Page_81'>81</a></span><br /> +<br /> +XXI. <span class="smcap">Orchid Hybrids</span>, <span class="tocnum"><a href='#Page_109'>109</a></span><br /> +<br /> +<span class="smcap">Index</span>, <span class="tocnum"><a href='#Page_111'>111</a></span><br /> +</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_xii" id="Page_xii">[Pg xii]</a></span></p> +<h2>LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS</h2> + + +<p> +PLATE<br /> +<br /> +I. <span class="smcap">Cypripedium insigne Sanderæ</span>, <span class="tocnum"><i><a href="#pl_1">Frontispiece</a></i></span><br /> +<br /> +<span class="tocnum">PAGE</span><br /> +<br /> +II. <span class="smcap">Miltonia vexillaria</span>, <span class="tocnum"><a href="#pl2">12</a></span><br /> +<br /> +III. <span class="smcap">Dendrobium Wardianum</span>, <span class="tocnum"><a href="#pl3">24</a></span><br /> +<br /> +IV. <span class="smcap">Cattleya Trianæ var. Hydra</span>, <span class="tocnum"><a href="#pl4">40</a></span><br /> +<br /> +V. <span class="smcap">Brasso-Cattleya Digbyano-Mossiæ</span>, <span class="tocnum"> <a href="#pl5">56</a></span><br /> +<br /> +VI. <span class="smcap">Cymbidium Lowio-eburneum</span>, <span class="tocnum"><a href="#pl6">72</a></span><br /> +<br /> +VII. <span class="smcap">Oncidium Marshallianum</span>, <span class="tocnum"><a href="#pl7">88</a></span><br /> +<br /> +VIII. <span class="smcap">Odontoglossum crispum</span>, <span class="tocnum"><a href="#pl8">102</a></span><br /> +</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">[Pg 1]</a></span></p> +<h2>ORCHIDS</h2> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2>INTRODUCTION</h2> + + +<p>It is not necessary here to trace the history of Orchid cultivation +since its commencement a century and a half or so ago. The earlier +introductions were few and infrequent, but they probably attracted as +much attention as the subjects in our gardens obtain to-day. It may be +said of Orchids that no class of plants has so well and consistently +sustained the interest of cultivators, which is partly because few, if +any, plants have flowers that exhibit such diversity of form, size, and +colouring. But another reason for their popularity may be found in the +fact that few plants are so easy to cultivate, if placed in the care of +a careful and earnest cultivator who applies the best methods which his +own experience indicates and is willing to avail himself of the help +which the experience of others has placed within his reach.</p> + +<p>Upwards of fifty years' continuous experience with Orchids have +necessarily presented to us much evidence as to the right or the wrong +methods of carrying out the numerous operations connected with their +culture. Nevertheless, it may be said that common sense is one of the +most important factors in cultivation, and the grower who<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2">[Pg 2]</a></span> carefully +thinks over the various problems as they arise, and, profiting by +experience, does his best to avoid former failures, will obtain a +measure of success far exceeding his expectations. To those who know +anything about the ordinary processes of growth and flower the plants +tell their own tale. They show when actively growing the period when a +reasonable amount of heat and moisture is required, and, on the +completion of growth of the deciduous species and the turning yellow of +the leaves, they tell just as plainly when the resting period has +arrived. It is so in all the important stages of their existence.</p> + +<p>The extent of the present work having been determined by others in the +same series, the object has been to get as much useful information into +it as possible, to confine the matter to practical subjects and to avoid +repetition. It has therefore been arranged in a series of chapters, each +dealing with an important matter, and available for reference when any +question on the subject crops up in another portion of the book. Short +notes follow on the principal genera known in gardens, but the cultural +remarks may be supplemented by reference to the cultural chapters. +Anything like an enumeration of the more important species could not be +attempted. So also in the matter of hybrid Orchids, the question is +discussed in two chapters dealing with the practical question of raising +seedlings, but only slight reference could be made to the species used +in hybridising or to the numerous hybrids themselves.<a name="FNanchor_1_1" id="FNanchor_1_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_1_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> The amateur who +engages in Orchid culture and in the raising of seedlings will find that +"practice makes master."<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">[Pg 3]</a></span> It is in indicating the lines on which the +practice may be best pursued that, it is hoped, this book may serve a +useful purpose.</p> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_1_1" id="Footnote_1_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1_1"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> Readers may be referred to <i>List of Orchid Hybrids</i>, +published by F. Sander and Sons.</p></div> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2>CHAPTER I</h2> + +<h3>THE RISE AND PROGRESS OF ORCHID CULTURE</h3> + + +<p>The first tropical Orchid to flower in the British Isles appears to have +been <i>Bletia verecunda</i> (<i>Helleborine americana</i>), figured in <i>Historia +Plantorum Rariorum, 1728-1735</i>. It bloomed in 1732 on a plant received +by Peter Collinson from the Bahamas in the previous year. In succession +to this appeared <i>Cypripedium spectabile</i> and one or two other North +American Cypripediums; <i>Vanilla aromatica</i>, and a few other species, +chiefly terrestrial Orchids. In 1789 Aiton's <i>Hortus Kewensis</i> +enumerated fifteen species of exotic Orchids as being in cultivation at +Kew, the tropical species being <i>Bletia verecunda</i>, <i>Epidendrum +fragrans</i>, <i>Epidendrum cochleatum</i>, and <i>Phaius grandifolius</i>. At the +end of the eighteenth century about fifty exotic species were recorded. +At that time most of the Orchids were imported only to perish as a +consequence of the unsuitable conditions in which they were grown. The +plants were potted in the most unlikely materials, such as decayed wood, +sawdust, loam, tanner's bark, or any other material which the cultivator +thought would be useful in preventing the excessive mortality among his +plants; but in all cases the chances of success were discounted by<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">[Pg 4]</a></span> the +plants being placed near hot flues, or plunged in tan or bark beds. It +was thought that a great success had been attained if a plant bloomed +once before it died.</p> + +<p>The year 1800 may be said to be the real starting-point of rational +Orchid culture, although, even in the earlier part of the nineteenth +century, the old traditions still hindered progress. In 1800 <i>Aërides +odoratum</i> was introduced, this being the first East Indian Orchid +cultivated in this country. In 1817 Sir Joseph Banks brought about the +cultivation of epiphytal Orchids in light, wicker baskets which were +suspended in the Orchid house or stove; this is one of the most +noteworthy events in the early history of Orchid cultivation.</p> + +<p>In 1818 <i>Cattleya labiata</i> appeared, and about the same time +<i>Cypripedium insigne</i>, which has now two or three hundred varieties that +enthusiasts consider sufficiently distinct to bear varietal names. <i>Disa +grandiflora</i> and <i>Oncidium Papilio</i> appeared in 1825, when about 180 +species of tropical Orchids were in cultivation in the Horticultural +Society's Gardens. This Society gave a great impetus to Orchid culture +by sending out collectors into distant lands, and Dr. Lindley, whilst +Editor of the <i>Gardeners' Chronicle</i>, played a no less important part in +studying and recording the species as they were received in this +country. The interest in Orchid importing gradually spread, and from the +time when Alan Cunningham sent home Australian Orchids in 1835 the +interest has never flagged, the famous Orchid collectors, Lobb, Gardner, +Skinner, Hartweg, Gibson, and others, sending consignments from time to +time from various parts of the world.</p> + +<p>The first attempts to grow Orchids in a reasonably low<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[Pg 5]</a></span> temperature were +made in the first half of the nineteenth century, one of the first to +grasp the truth in this direction being Joseph Cooper, who was gardener +to Earl Fitzwilliam at Wentworth. But a considerable time elapsed before +the more rational treatment, which meant less artificial heat and more +ventilation, became general. The culture was further improved by the +introduction of the hot-water system of heating Orchid houses, a method +which is now almost perfect and has done more to further Orchid-growing +than anything else.</p> + +<p>The spread of information respecting the climatic conditions of the +countries in which the plants were collected also helped cultivators in +this country, and the articles published in the <i>Gardeners' Chronicle</i> +in 1851 by the late B. S. Williams, and subsequent articles by other +experts, were of great service.</p> + +<p>The latter half of the nineteenth century was the most important era in +the development of Orchid cultivation. A remarkable feature was the +beginning of that industry which has now attained such widespread +popularity, namely, the raising of hybrid Orchids from seed. The first +hybrid Orchid, Calanthe × Dominyi (obtained from a cross between <i>C. +furcata</i> and <i>C. Masuca</i>), flowered with Messrs. James Veitch & Sons in +October 1856. The same firm subsequently produced many fine hybrid +Calanthes, Phalanopsis, Cattleyas, Lælias, and Læliocattleyas. Many of +these are now standard garden plants, whilst the work of hybridising and +raising hybrid Orchids has become general.</p> + +<p>Another notable event in Orchid culture during the period mentioned was +the commencement of the Cool-house or Odontoglossum Section of Orchid +Culture. In 1863,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[Pg 6]</a></span> Weir, Blunt, and Schlim went to New Granada in search +of Odontoglossums, and they were successful in introducing plants of +<i>Odontoglossum crispum</i> (Alexandræ), collected above Bogota. These +collectors also contributed to our knowledge of the proper methods of +cultivating cool Orchids.</p> + +<p>So things have gone on until our own days. Orchids hold one of the most +important places in gardens, and such genera as Odontoglossums and +Cypripediums are so popular that they are cultivated on an extensive +scale even by many who do not care to grow a general collection of +Orchids.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2>CHAPTER II</h2> + +<h3>STRUCTURE OF ORCHID FLOWERS</h3> + + +<p>Most people are familiar with the regular arrangement of the segments of +the flowers of Amaryllids and Lilies, with their prominent pistils and +anthers. The first stage in the advance of the Orchid family is shown in +the Apostasieæ, comprising <i>Apostasia</i>, <i>Neuwiedia</i> and <i>Adactylus</i>, in +which the perianth segments are more or less regular and the anthers in +some degree prominent, Neuwiedia, with its free stamens and prominent +style, appearing at first sight nearer to some of the Amaryllids than to +the Orchideæ commonly seen in gardens.</p> + +<p>The Cypripedieæ, although so widely separated from other sections as to +suggest that in the operations of nature a vast number of connecting +types must have become<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[Pg 7]</a></span> extinct, is the next step, the labellum being +formed into a pouch with infolded side lobes. The column has a prominent +staminode with two fertile anthers below it, one on each side of the +column and behind the stigmatic plate. The upper sepal is frequently the +showiest feature in the flower; the lower sepals are joined and arranged +behind the lip, whilst the petals extend on each side and vary much in +form.</p> + +<p>In gardens, the whole of the genus is known as Cypripedium, although the +South American species (Selenipedium), having a three-celled ovary, +differ widely from the one-celled East Indian and Malayan species, and +other sections have such marked and consistent botanical differences as +to warrant the botanist in separating them under different sub-generic +names. The third section of Orchidæ, the largest family of the +Monocotyledons, forms the chief class of Orchids as they are known in +gardens. In this class the stamens and style unite into a column, and at +the top of the column the pollen masses are situated; these are covered +by the anther-cap, and in a cavity is the stigma with its viscid surface +to receive the pollen grains.</p> + +<p>So diverse and intricate are the forms of the flowers, and especially +labellums, that there is little doubt that insect aid is necessary in +their natural habitats to bring about pollination. It has been proved by +the operations carried out in cross-fertilisation in gardens that no +class of plants can be so readily crossed under artificial conditions. +It is not necessary here to go further into structural details, as the +peculiarities of each section will be remarked on under their different +headings. But it may be said that in what are called abnormal flowers, +which have perfect stamens<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[Pg 8]</a></span> and style, can be seen instances suggesting +the evolutionary process; these would be more common but for the number +of connecting links which have dropped out in the great struggle for +existence.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2>CHAPTER III</h2> + +<h3>DIFFICULTIES TO OVERCOME</h3> + + +<p>Some of the difficulties which the cultivator of Orchids has to contend +against arise from the fact that his houses have to accommodate plants +which have been brought from widely separated countries, or from +different altitudes in the same region. They therefore require very +different cultural conditions, especially in the matter of temperature.</p> + +<p>Consideration of the climatic conditions under which the plants are +found growing in their native habitats is very helpful to all engaged in +Orchid culture. Many problems have already been worked out by the +experience of cultivators, but some of the conclusions have been arrived +at only after costly failures. In the early days of Orchid culture, +before the advent of the modern Orchid house with its improved methods +of ventilation and means for the promotion of humidity, the great +mortality among cultivated Orchids was caused by excessive heat and +drought. Even at the present day more mischief is done by excessive heat +than by cold treatment.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[Pg 9]</a></span></p> +<h2>CHAPTER IV</h2> + +<h3>STRUCTURE OF THE ORCHID HOUSE</h3> + + +<p>So far as the improvements in present-day Orchid houses are concerned, +these are not due to the imagination of the horticultural builder, but +to the experience of the Orchid grower. It is owing to him that the +old-time glass sides, with their hinged ventilators on a level with the +plants, and many other harmful arrangements, have been abandoned. +Moderately low, span-roofed houses, extending north and south for +preference—although the aspect does not seem to be of vital +importance—are the best, the sides being wholly of brick, and also the +ends of all but the large houses, in which the upper part may be formed +of wood and glass.</p> + +<p>The top ventilation should be admitted through ventilators placed at the +highest point of the ridge, and they are usually worked by a continuous +system manipulated at one end. The lower ventilators should be small +ones fixed in the brick-work at the sides of the house, and they may be +arranged to be regulated from the outside, or by means of rods attached +to the flaps on the inside and reaching to the path, being carried +beneath the staging. The natural earth is the best base for an Orchid +house, and open wood-work trellises placed on the natural earth are far +preferable to tiled paths, therefore their use is strongly recommended. +Beneath the central stage, from end to end, deep tanks with cemented +interior should be provided, because rain-water<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[Pg 10]</a></span> is essential for +watering the plants. To create a good appearance, narrow, ornamental +rockeries may be arranged at the edge of the side staging and beneath +it, and in any part of the basement available. These should be planted +with Begonias, Tradescantias, such ferns as are not likely to be +attacked by thrips, Selaginellas, Fittonias, and <i>Ficus repens</i>, which +are not liable to attacks from insects, whilst their presence tends to +preserve a healthy atmosphere in the house.</p> + +<p>The rockeries beneath the staging should not be built high enough to +obstruct the passage of the heat from the hot-water piping, a rise of +one foot from the ground level being sufficient.</p> + +<p>In the warm-house, <i>Eucharis grandiflora</i> and other species of Eucharis; +Hymenocallis and Pancratiums, thrive and bloom well beneath the staging. +The inside of the roof should be wired for suspending baskets containing +Orchids, and this should be done before the plants are placed in the +house.</p> + +<p>As regards the form of structure, comparatively low, span-roofed houses, +with brick sides reaching to the eaves, and no side glass, are the best, +the ends being of brick up to the height of the side walls, the +remaining part running up to the ridge, in all but very small houses, +being formed of wood and glass. If several houses are built, spaces +should be left between each house, and no two or more houses should be +built with partition walls, for these prevent the necessary side +ventilation. A house of 100 feet or so in length should have a division +midway in its length, which for some purposes gives the advantages of +two houses. Pitch-pine or teak, being durable, are good woods for the +wood-work, and, in any case, the use of cheap, soft<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[Pg 11]</a></span> timber should be +avoided. In glazing, only a thin bedding of putty should be used, and +the glass should be bradded on the upper side, as top putty when +decaying or on becoming loose is worse than useless, and tends seriously +to foul the water in the cisterns. Span-roofed houses 12 feet to 15 feet +wide, and of proportionate elevation, are suitable for ordinary Orchids, +but if specimen plants are desired a loftier house will be necessary.</p> + +<p>A range of houses should, if possible, be connected at the end which is +most exposed to the north and north-east winds by a corridor or covered +structure, in which the potting-shed stores and entrance to the boiler +hold should be arranged. The greatest care must be taken that no fumes +from the heating apparatus can find their way into either the corridor, +potting-sheds, or plant-houses, or the plants will suffer the worst +consequences. Safety can easily be assured by thoroughly ventilating the +stoke-hold and making the partition between the corridor or offices and +the stoke-hold as air-tight as possible.</p> + +<p>The wood-work, when of pitch-pine or other hard wood planed smooth, may +be oiled or varnished, painting being undesirable for new houses. In +course of time, however, painting has to be resorted to, and it is one +of the most trying operations about the Orchid houses. Great care has to +be taken to obtain a reliable quality of paint that will not harm the +plants, and to keep the house vacant for as long a time as possible for +the gases from the paint to escape. After the plants are returned to the +house some ventilation must be maintained day and night for a time. Tar +should not be used inside an Orchid house for any purpose.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[Pg 12]</a></span></p> + + +<h3>THE STAGING</h3> + +<p>The staging must be arranged according to the width of the house. Narrow +houses may be provided with a stage on each side and a path through the +centre. Other structures of sufficient width should be furnished with a +side stage measuring 4 feet to 4 feet 6 inches in width, and a central +stage on a somewhat higher level, and rising in steps to the middle and +highest point.</p> + +<p><a name="pl2" id="pl2"></a></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;"> +<img src="images/plate2.jpg" width="650" height="460" alt="PLATE II + +MILTONIA VEXILLARIA + +"Empress Augusta Victoria" + +(This specimen, cultivated from a single growth, bore 126 flowers.)" title="" /> +<span class="caption">PLATE II<br /> + +MILTONIA VEXILLARIA<br /> + +"Empress Augusta Victoria"<br /> + +(This specimen, cultivated from a single growth, bore 126 flowers.)</span> +</div> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[Pg 15]</a></span></p> + +<p>Iron frame-work is the best, because it is clean and almost +indestructible. The uprights resting on the floor should be fixed in +metal saucers, which, if kept filled with water, offer great obstacles +to insects ascending from the floor. The open wood-work resting on the +iron frames, and on which the plants are to stand, should be of teak or +pitch-pine, and arranged trellis-like. For some years past it has been +the practice to have a close, moisture-holding stage of slate, or tiles, +beneath the upper and open wood-work stage. It was an invention of my +own when adapting an ordinary plant-house with a slate stage to receive +one of the earliest importations of <i>Odontoglossum crispum</i>. The +existing slate stage was made water-tight at the joints, and a fillet of +cement was run along the back; the surface was then covered with clean +shingle, and home-made trellises, raised on bricks in three levels, were +placed along the close staging to receive the plants. It proved a great +success, and in the same house the small, bottom ventilators, the first +of their kind, but which have now become general, were an equally good +innovation. At that time, and for many years afterwards, the flooring of +Orchid houses was sealed by concrete or hard tiles, and the +moisture-holding lower stage was necessary to give a reasonable amount +of evaporating surface. More recently it has occurred to many of us that +a moisture-giving surface might be obtained from the natural earth, if +the earth was left either in its natural state or was given a coating of +coke-breeze or similar porous material, and trellises used for the +paths. In a similar way provision had to be made for the second object +of the close stage, namely, the checking of the direct upward heat from +the hot-water pipes. This has been done very effectively in some gardens +by arranging a much less elaborate and costly means than the full, close +staging generally in use. An iron frame is placed midway between the +hot-water pipes and the staging on which the plants rest; a shelf of +corrugated iron, slate, or tiles, extends from the back to about half +the width of the side staging, its inner edge being about midway in the +space beneath the staging, and an inch or so of space is left between +the back of the shelf and the wall of the house to allow some of the +heat from the pipes to pass that way, the greater part being diverted +towards the middle of the house by the intervention of the shelf which +is covered with turf or some other moisture-holding material. This is +kept continually moist by frequent syringings during the warm season, +when plenty of moisture in the air is required.</p> + +<p>In arranging new houses having the natural earth for a floor, this plan +is less expensive and altogether preferable to the formal, close staging +of full width, which, however, should still be retained in adapting +ordinary plant-houses already provided with a tiled or cemented base, +unless it<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[Pg 16]</a></span> is convenient to remove the tiles and restore the natural +earth surface. In arranging the staging, one essential object has to be +kept in view, namely, that no part of it shall be out of easy reach; for +very wide stages are apt to cause the plants in the back rows to suffer +neglect.</p> + + +<h3>METHOD OF HEATING</h3> + +<p>In these progressive times it is not well to lay down hard-and-fast +rules with regard to the best type of appliance. It should, however, be +urged that every Orchid house ought to be heated with hot water, and, +that in all cases 4-inch piping should be used, the radiation of heat +from that size being much more gentle and equal than from smaller pipes. +Bottom heat by means of piping under closed-in beds of cocoa-nut fibre, +or any other material, is bad, although, in a very slight degree, some +arrangement of the kind may be of assistance in the house devoted to +raising seedlings. If it is used, an outlet must be provided for the +inevitable moisture thus raised so that it will not condense and fall on +the plants.</p> + +<p>For small houses or blocks of houses, the old saddle boiler in some form +is all that can be desired; and there are several forms of +slow-combustion boilers which may be set almost on the surface of the +ground outside the house, and these are satisfactory. For blocks of +houses the English form of sectional boiler is one of the very best; in +large blocks duplicate sets of this pattern, or any other type that may +be selected, should be set down, as it provides means of heating the +houses if the ordinary boiler happens to fail. It is always better to +provide more power than may appear<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[Pg 17]</a></span> absolutely necessary, and work it at +low pressure, than to have barely sufficient power and work it hard +during severe weather, as the heat diffused in the latter case is +harmful.</p> + +<p>Before deciding on the means of heating to be employed, it would be well +to pay a visit to some of the collections noted for the excellent +condition of their plants, and inspect the appliances and their +arrangement. Most Orchid growers, whether in private establishments or +nurseries, are willing to assist amateurs in these matters. When the +apparatus has been got into working order, tests should be made to +ensure an equal distribution of the heat from the piping. If a draught +of hot air to any part of the house from beneath the staging is +observed, it is a good plan to build up openly-laid screens or brick +walls 4-1/2 inches thick, the layers of brick being placed so that there +is half the length of the brick opening between each brick and the next +to it. Where there is a sufficient command of heat, these openly-laid +brick walls, without mortar, built up below the side staging and running +parallel with the edge of it, if they are syringed frequently, assist +materially in preserving a healthy moisture in the house.</p> + + +<h3>TEMPERATURE</h3> + +<p>One of the most important matters in Orchid cultivation is to see that a +lower temperature is maintained at night than in the day. Nothing is +more injurious to the plants than to be kept in a high temperature at +night, nor is anything more contrary to natural conditions. All who have +travelled in the countries from whence Orchids have been imported +testify to the great difference between the temperature<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[Pg 18]</a></span> during the day +and that experienced at night, the difference in some parts being that +between an excessively hot day and a chilly night and early morning. +These cool conditions at night are absolutely necessary for the +well-being of the plants, and in their absence the plants suffer as do +human beings during the progress of a heat-wave, which often kills many +people. Therefore it must be urged that at night the temperature must be +from 5° to 10° Fahrenheit lower than the day temperatures. This +condition is difficult to get during hot weather, but it is necessary. +Although a scale of temperatures throughout the year must not be taken +to mean that a little more heat may not be allowed occasionally—as, for +instance, by sun-heat, which is beneficial—nevertheless it is better to +have a scale to form a basis, and especially to emphasise the lower +temperature at night.</p> + + +<h3>Table of Temperatures for Orchid Houses</h3> + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="1" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Months.</td><td colspan="2"> Warm House, East Indian.</td><td colspan="2">Cattleya or Intermediate House.</td><td colspan="2">Cool or Odontoglossum House.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'></td><td align='left'> Day.</td><td align='left'> Night.</td><td align='left'> Day.</td><td align='left'> Night.</td><td align='left'> Day.</td><td align='left'> Night.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>January</td><td align='left'> 65-70</td><td align='left'> 60</td><td align='left'> 60-65</td><td align='left'> 55</td><td align='left'> 50-55</td><td align='left'> 45</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>February</td><td align='left'> 65-70</td><td align='left'> 60</td><td align='left'> 60-65</td><td align='left'> 55</td><td align='left'> 50-55</td><td align='left'> 45</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>March</td><td align='left'> 65-70</td><td align='left'> 60</td><td align='left'> 60-65</td><td align='left'> 55</td><td align='left'> 55-60</td><td align='left'> 50</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>April</td><td align='left'> 65-70</td><td align='left'> 60</td><td align='left'> 60-65</td><td align='left'> 55</td><td align='left'> 55-60</td><td align='left'> 50</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>May</td><td align='left'> 70-75</td><td align='left'> 65</td><td align='left'> 65-70</td><td align='left'> 60</td><td align='left'> 60-65</td><td align='left'> 55</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>June</td><td align='left'> 75-80</td><td align='left'> 65</td><td align='left'> 70-75</td><td align='left'> 60</td><td align='left'> 60-65</td><td align='left'> 55</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>July</td><td align='left'> 75-85</td><td align='left'> 65</td><td align='left'> 70-80</td><td align='left'> 65</td><td align='left'> 60-70</td><td align='left'> 55</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>August</td><td align='left'> 75-85</td><td align='left'> 65</td><td align='left'> 70-80</td><td align='left'> 65</td><td align='left'> 60-70</td><td align='left'> 55</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>September</td><td align='left'> 75-80</td><td align='left'> 65</td><td align='left'> 70-75</td><td align='left'> 60</td><td align='left'> 60-65</td><td align='left'> 55</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>October</td><td align='left'> 70-75</td><td align='left'> 65</td><td align='left'> 65-70</td><td align='left'> 60</td><td align='left'> 60-65</td><td align='left'> 55</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>November</td><td align='left'> 65-70</td><td align='left'> 60</td><td align='left'> 60-65</td><td align='left'> 55</td><td align='left'> 55-60</td><td align='left'> 50</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>December</td><td align='left'> 65-70</td><td align='left'> 60</td><td align='left'> 60-65</td><td align='left'> 55</td><td align='left'> 50-55</td><td align='left'> 45</td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<p>Degrees Fahrenheit. The higher day temperature should be obtained by +sun-heat when possible.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[Pg 19]</a></span></p> + +<p>Further remarks on this and other details will be found under the +headings of the different genera, but it will be better now to state in +general terms that during the season of active growth any reasonably +high temperature by sun-heat, secured by keeping the house tolerably +close and well shaded, greatly benefits the plants. This is specially +noticeable where batches of <i>Dendrobium nobile</i>, <i>D. Wardianum</i>, and +other deciduous Dendrobiums are grown. Those who grow them best allow +the house containing the plants to become very warm; they remove the +shading early in the afternoon in order to let the plants get the +longest duration of light possible, and they keep the house very moist +until the evening.</p> + + +<h3>THE SINGLE ORCHID HOUSE</h3> + +<p>It is doubtful whether the owner of a large collection of Orchids gets a +greater amount of pleasure than the beginner starting with but one +Orchid house, provided the owner of the single structure is careful in +selecting his plants.</p> + +<p>In cases where only one Orchid house is possible, and a more or less +general collection of plants is desired, that house should be heated as +an intermediate house. The single Orchid house has often been the +starting-point of more extensive culture. It is generally commenced by +utilising an existing plant-house, in some cases, unfortunately, without +making the necessary preparation for the new occupants.</p> + +<p>When it has been decided to adapt a house for Orchids, the proper course +is to clear the house of its contents, thoroughly overhaul the interior +fittings, such as staging, &c.,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[Pg 20]</a></span> and make any alterations necessary. The +heating apparatus should be regulated, and, above all, the best possible +provision must be made for catching and storing rain-water, even if this +necessitates the providing of a brick and cement tank beneath the +staging.</p> + +<p>If the existing floor in the house is of concrete or tiles, or any +similar material, it must be removed, leaving the natural earth for the +surface of the basement, and providing a wood-trellis for walking on in +spaces between the stages. Let the house be thoroughly cleansed and +painted, and after a short time has elapsed it will be ready to receive +the plants.</p> + +<p>In such a house heated as a cool, intermediate house, with a minimum +temperature of 50° to 60° Fahr. in winter, a large number of showy +Orchids can be grown successfully. Those species which require great +heat should be carefully avoided, for, although cool-house Orchids are +easily managed in a house warmer than is necessary for them, the +hot-house kinds usually fail in a temperature which is too low to allow +of their making growth under favourable conditions. In such an +intermediate house the Odontoglossums, Masdevallias and other favourite +cool-house Orchids can be grown successfully, if arranged in the cooler +part of the house and carefully watered. The Cattleyas, Lælias, and the +garden hybrids should be placed on the staging in the middle of the +house, well up to the light; the Brazilian Oncidiums, <i>Sophronitis +grandiflora</i>, and Stanhopeas should be suspended from the roof of the +house, but in such positions as will avoid placing them over the plants +on the side staging. The Odontoglossums and Cochliodas may be +accommodated on the side staging in the cooler and moister part of the +house. In such a house<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[Pg 21]</a></span> all the varieties of <i>Cypripedium insigne</i>, <i>C. +Spicerianum</i>, <i>C. Charlesworthii</i>, and all the green-leafed section +known as Selenipediums, will thrive admirably, and a very large +selection of other showy Orchids, including Zygopetalums; but again I +would say that species which are usually regarded as warm-house Orchids +must be rejected.</p> + + +<h3>SHADING</h3> + +<p>It should be distinctly understood that every Orchid house needs to be +fitted with proper means of shading, extending over the whole roof and +removable when necessary. Some cultivators think they meet the case by +providing shading only on the sunny side, or by painting the glass with +some kind of preparation more or less in the nature of whitewash. Such +preparations should never be used, because, when this is once placed on +the glass, the shade, such as it is, is there in dull as well as bright +weather, in the night time as well as the day, and for the greater part +of the time, especially in dull seasons, it obstructs light which is +necessary for the proper development of the plants. Another important +objection to their use is that shading given by these washes wears off +and leaves the plants exposed to the full sunlight. The substance is +washed off by the rains and carried into the rain-water tanks, thus +causing injuries to the plants watered with the polluted water, and +rendering unsightly the foliage moistened with it.</p> + +<p>Proper blinds running on iron or wooden supports, raising them well +above the glass of the roof, are absolutely necessary. Lath roller +blinds are excellent for shading, being durable, clean, and easily let +down and drawn up.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[Pg 22]</a></span></p> + +<p>Light canvas or scrim shading fixed to roller blinds answers the purpose +well, but care should be taken not to employ heavy, closely woven +canvas. Too great attention cannot be paid to the working of these +blinds, for they must never be down except when required for protection +against the sun's rays, and they must be drawn up during dull intervals.</p> + +<p>The blinds are useful also during severe winters as a protection against +excessive cold at nights, and in this particular the lath roller blinds +are the best, and may be left in position where they are likely to be +required for this purpose.</p> + +<p>When canvas blinds are used during the summer and removed in late +autumn, care should be taken to have them perfectly dry before they are +stored for the winter in some dry place, or they will be useless when +they are required for placing in position the following spring.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2>CHAPTER V</h2> + +<h3>THE POTTING AND BASKETING PROCESS</h3> + + +<p>We are often asked what season is the best for potting and basketing +Orchids. Experienced growers say that, with the exception of the winter +season, they are engaged in potting operations all the year round, +potting each section as it requires it. Springtime is a period when a +general overhaul of the plants is usual, and, at that time, plants +requiring it should be repotted, but those which are not in the proper<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[Pg 23]</a></span> +condition, or which are showing flower-spikes, should be allowed to +remain until their flowering time has passed.</p> + +<p>As a general rule, it may be said that the best time to perform the +operation is soon after the flowering season has passed, and that no +plant should be repotted unless it really requires it; but any plant +which has become in a bad condition in the pot by being in unsuitable +material should be repotted at once, no matter what season it may be.</p> + +<p>Care should be taken to use the pots and crocks in a thoroughly clean +condition. Broken crocks are generally used for drainage, although they +are not now placed in the pots to the depth of one-half or more, as they +used to be. The depth of the crocks varies from about one-third in +Cypripediums and terrestrial Orchids generally, to a rather greater +depth for Cattleyas, Lælias, and similar Orchids, the depth of crocks +also being varied according to the density of the material used, fewer +crocks being necessary when a mixture of Osmunda fibre, or other +material which lets the water through quickly, is employed in place of +peat.</p> + +<p>Sand and crushed crocks or potsherds are used by many for mixing with +the potting material, but they may easily be dispensed with, or used +only in very small quantities.</p> + +<p>Turfy loam carefully broken up and mixed in suitable proportions with +peat and Sphagnum-moss, or Osmunda, or Polypodium fibre, is necessary +for Cypripediums, the proportion of loam being greatest for the +stronger-growing plants; certain Selenipediums and Cypripediums require +quite one-half of that ingredient. Some good growers<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[Pg 24]</a></span> use loam fibre +with a sprinkling of leaves and broken crocks entirely for <i>Cypripedium +insigne</i> and others of the green-leafed class, and also for Calanthes, +Phaius, Zygopetalums, and other plants.</p> + +<p>In preparing the peat for use in potting, the bracken rhizomes should be +set aside to place as a layer over the crocks, with a little +Sphagnum-moss. Bracken rhizomes have been used with advantage instead of +crocks to form drainage for Odontoglossums, and some growers like it so +much for that purpose that the horticultural sundriesmen supply it +sterilised in bags.</p> + +<p>The methods of potting and choice of material vary with different +growers, each pursuing in some matters different methods to those +observed by others. It is desirable that an Orchid grower should +endeavour to find out the best methods for his own circumstances and, if +the results are satisfactory, that he should adhere to them, for there +is no more prolific cause of failure than in continually trying +experiments recommended by others. The operation of potting or basketing +Orchids is very simple, and can be readily learned by observation. The +aim should be to avoid injuring the living roots but to leave the plant +firm in the pot.</p> + +<p><a name="pl3" id="pl3"></a></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;"> +<img src="images/plate3.jpg" width="650" height="460" alt="PLATE III + +DENDROBIUM WARDIANUM + +(At the time the photograph was taken this plant bore 264 flowers.)" title="" /> +<span class="caption">PLATE III<br /> + +DENDROBIUM WARDIANUM<br /> + +(At the time the photograph was taken this plant bore 264 flowers.)</span> +</div> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[Pg 27]</a></span></p> + + +<h3>BASKETS AND POTS</h3> + +<p>It is more in accordance with nature to grow epiphytal Orchids of +convenient size in baskets to be suspended from the roof of the Orchid +house, and in the case of subjects reputedly difficult to grow the best +results are often attained in this way. At the same time, this is due as +much to the plants being placed near to the glass of the roof, as to the +fact that the air has better access to the roots than when the plants +are in pots. Hence it is that for suspending plants of small and medium +growth, Orchid pans made in the same way as the flower-pot are found to +be a convenient substitute for baskets, as they are not so liable to +decay as wood-baskets.</p> + +<p>Stanhopeas, Lueddemannias, Acinetas, and some other Orchids which +produce their flower spikes directly from the base of the growth, must +be grown in baskets to admit of the proper production of their flowers, +which, if grown in pots, are sent down into the compost and lost. +Gongoras, Cirrhæas, and similar genera, which produce slender spikes of +flowers of drooping habit, are also best in baskets, as they produce +their flowers much more freely when the plants are suspended.</p> + +<p>The Orchid pan, for suspending, is also equally good for Masdevallias of +the Chimæra section, a large number of Bulbophyllums and Cirrhopetalums, +and generally for plants of small stature which would be too far away +from the glass if placed on the stage. For the bulk of the collection +the grower has to use the ordinary flower-pots, which are still +unsurpassed for general purposes. The elaborately designed pots, +perforated with holes or slits, which were used for Orchids years ago, +are not necessary, for there is no defect in the ordinary flower-pot +which cannot be overcome by the careful and skilful practitioner.</p> + +<p>Rafts and cylinders of teak-wood made in the same manner as baskets are +useful for some species, but it has to be remembered that plants on +rafts are liable to suffer from lack of sufficient moisture-holding +material around them. <i>Broughtonia sanguinea</i>, however, is never so +happy as when<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[Pg 28]</a></span> grown on a horizontally suspended raft without the least +potting material.</p> + +<p>The great trouble with suspended Orchids, and one which precludes the +cultivator employing this culture for so many plants as he could wish, +is the drip they cause to the plants on the stages. No Orchid should +have another plant suspended above it; if it is not possible to avoid +this, the relative positions of the suspended plants should be changed +as often as possible; water should only be given them by "dipping" the +plants, and they should be allowed to drain thoroughly before being +again suspended. As many of the suspended plants as possible should be +arranged on each side of the path, and in other situations where there +are no plants immediately under them.</p> + +<p>Narrow rafts 4 inches wide and 1 foot or so in height are suitable for +<i>Angræcum infundibulare</i>, <i>A. imbricatum</i>, and other scandent Angræcums +of similar growth. These should be fastened to the rafts with some good +Sphagnum-moss between the plant and the raft on the lower half, the base +of the plant and the raft being afterwards fastened in a flower-pot with +Sphagnum-moss, the raft leaning at a slight angle. Sphagnum-moss can be +added on the upper part as the plant grows, and, when sufficiently +rooted up the stem, it can be severed half-way up when the base will +produce new growths.</p> + + +<h3>STAKING OR FIXING ORCHIDS</h3> + +<p>Some years ago, when large specimens were favoured, it used to be the +practice to stake or "stick" the plants, as it was called, some of them +exhibiting almost as many sticks as<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[Pg 29]</a></span> pseudo-bulbs. The sticks rapidly +decayed, often leaving the stumps to harbour fungus and cause injury to +the plants.</p> + +<p>The compact specimens of the present day, when properly grown, require +no support from sticks. In respect to specimens of larger growth, such +as Aërides of tall habit, Lælias of the <i>L. purpurata</i> class, and +Dendrobiums, when they require sticking at all, they may be securely +supported by one stick in the centre, to which one of the strongest +growths should be fastened, any others requiring support being looped to +the centre stick. The fewer sticks used the better.</p> + +<p>Dwarf plants with creeping rhizomes between the pseudo-bulbs used often +to be secured when repotted by small wire pegs, and the custom is not +yet quite obsolete. Metal, especially galvanised iron wire, which is +most commonly used, is very injurious to any portion of an Orchid which +is allowed to come in contact with it. Such pegs are unnecessary, for +the plants can be fixed with the potting material, and later on the new +roots will effectually secure them.</p> + +<p>In fastening Orchids on rafts or blocks, fine copper wire should be +used, and all the care possible taken to prevent it resting on the +rhizomes or stems, a small piece of peat or Sphagnum-moss being placed +beneath the wire where it crosses the plant. Where Orchids such as +Phalænopsis are grown in baskets or hanging pans, the leaves should not +be allowed to touch the wire suspenders, or injury will result. Where +leaves too closely approach the wire suspenders during their growth, the +wire should be bent to avoid contact, or have a small<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[Pg 30]</a></span> shred of +cotton-wool or other material bound round it at the point of contact, if +the leaf cannot be drawn aside.</p> + +<p>For staking Orchids, bamboo canes are preferable to common deal-wood +sticks.</p> + + +<h3>LABELLING THE PLANTS</h3> + +<p>It adds much to the interest of a collection of Orchids, either small or +large, if a proper system of recording the plants is arranged for by +means of a stock-book, in which the name of each plant is entered as it +is acquired, together with the source from which it was obtained, and +any other particulars that may be required when the plant flowers. This +entry need only be brief, and generally one, or at most two lines will +suffice for each plant. If it is intended to keep the plants under +numbers, the left-hand margin should bear consecutive numbers from one +onward, but if it is desired to have the names on each plant, the names +in the stock-book should be arranged in an alphabetical manner. In some +collections where numbering is practised the number is written across +the top of the label, and the name written lengthwise when desired.</p> + +<p>The common deal label is not suitable, because the base soon decays in +Orchid houses, causing danger from fungal growth, and rendering the +identification of the plant after the label has perished, or fallen +away, very uncertain. The lead number for clipping the rim of the pot, +or attaching to the wires of the basket or suspending pan, is less +objectionable, but they are only convenient where numbers are alone +used. Zinc labels and various other contrivances have been tried, but +the best and safest<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</a></span> label, either for numbers or names, or both, is the +white celluloid label, obtainable in all sizes, similar to the ordinary +wooden plant label, and in the ticket form for attaching to the baskets +by means of fine wire. This kind of label does not decay as the wood +labels, and it may be cleaned and used again as long as it remains in a +perfect condition. Let all labels be made as small as possible +consistent with their being firmly fixed, as it detracts much from the +appearance of a house of plants if the labels are too much in evidence. +Care must be taken during repotting that the labels removed from the +plants should each be returned to its proper specimen. Much trouble may +be caused by mixing the labels.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2>CHAPTER VI</h2> + +<h3>REMOVING USELESS LEAVES AND BULBS</h3> + + +<p>An unsightly appearance is given to many collections of Orchids by the +presence on some of the plants of a number of damaged or yellow leaves. +These are often supposed to be the result of bad cultivation, and, in +some cases, rightly so. But in all collections of Orchids the old +leaves, even of the evergreen species, do not pass off naturally as they +do in their native habitats, where they have the natural seasons with +their climatic changes to cause the leaves to fall naturally. When +cultivated under glass, the species which are known as evergreen kinds +retain their old leaves long after they would have passed away in their +native wilds; and not only that, but they decline and become<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[Pg 32]</a></span> unsightly +for years under glass, instead of passing away in a few months. +Consequently many Orchids in collections often carry at least twice as +many leaves as they ought to do, and the oldest are the most unsightly. +A ready example of this kind is given by most collections of +Masdevallias. The leaves are usually densely packed, many of the older +ones shabby, and not only unsightly in themselves, but interfering with +the full development of the new growths.</p> + +<p>Masdevallias have no developed pseudo-bulbs, but a joint will be seen +where the leaf-blades join the basal stems; all damaged leaves should be +cut off just above that joint, and it will be found that some of the +plants will be benefited, both in appearance and condition, by having +from one-third to one-half the number of their old and damaged leaves +removed. The same remarks apply to all Orchids of similar growth, such +as Pleurothallis and Octomerias, and indeed to the species generally, +for damaged or decaying leaves can be of no assistance in the +development of the plant, unless in exceptional cases where the grower +must use his own discretion.</p> + + +<h3>USELESS PSEUDO-BULBS</h3> + +<p>If an imported Orchid such as a Cattleya or Lælia, which has been +cultivated under glass for several years and has many pseudo-bulbs, be +turned out of the pot and the roots freed from the potting material, it +will be seen that the new roots which nourish the plant are confined to +the freshest pseudo-bulbs, and that the roots beneath the older +pseudo-bulbs are in such a condition that they are<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[Pg 33]</a></span> useless in the +economy of the plant. This fact goes to show that the old pseudo-bulbs +are being supported by the newer growths, and, that they are seriously +impeding the full development of the flower-producing part of the +specimen. In such cases it is a common thing to see large specimens +collapse and die off, the decay being traceable to the old bulbs in the +centre of the plant. It is, therefore, better to remove old pseudo-bulbs +behind the last three or four leading ones, and, if it is desired to +retain all leading portions of a large mass in one pot or pan to form a +specimen, they should be potted together, when it will be found that, +given reasonable treatment, they will make better specimens than if left +in a mass. In the case of varieties that need to be propagated, the +pieces removed should be placed in comparatively small Orchid pans or +baskets, properly labelled, and in due time useful and often valuable +specimens may be secured from material which would only have been +detrimental to the parent plant. The same kind of treatment will be +found equally beneficial in the case of garden hybrids which have been +cultivated long enough to have a number of back bulbs. In such cases the +plants frequently degenerate after the first two or three years, until +they produce inferior flowers, but the removal of the back pseudo-bulbs +results in giving the flowering growths the full benefit of the root +action, and consequently the plants again produce flowers of good +quality.</p> + +<p>Potting time is a very convenient season to give special attention to +the removal of useless leaves and pseudo-bulbs, as the plants can be +readily handled when they are out of the pots.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[Pg 34]</a></span></p> + +<p>All useless parts removed should be taken out of the house and burnt. It +is a common practice to throw the leaves under the stage. No rubbish of +this, or any other kind, should be allowed in the Orchid house, as it +forms a harbour for insects and is, in other respects, objectionable.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2>CHAPTER VII</h2> + +<h3>PROPAGATION BY DIVISION</h3> + + +<p>It used to be thought a very delicate operation to divide an Orchid, or +to remove any portion of it for the purpose of obtaining another +specimen, and, when the operation was carried out, it was thought to be +at the risk of the plant and its offset.</p> + +<p>In the case of badly grown plants, or where the houses are unsuitable +for growing Orchids successfully, there may still be considerable risk +in the process; but under ordinary conditions, and where the plants have +proper accommodation, there is no risk whatever; it may be said that +plants are never in better health than when they are divided at +reasonable intervals. If we consider the case of <i>Cypripedium insigne +Sanderæ</i>, some of the white Cattleyas, and many other Orchids which were +imported only as single specimens originally but which are now well +represented in gardens, the advantage of dividing the plants is readily +seen.</p> + +<p>Pseudo-bulbous Orchids with progressive rhizomes, such as Cattleyas, +Lælias, Oncidiums, and Odontoglossums, should be divided by severing the +rhizomes, retaining two<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[Pg 35]</a></span> or more pseudo-bulbs together. This operation +can be done at any season of the year, but it is most convenient to do +it at potting time, and, for preference, just before the commencement of +the natural growing season of the plant. Small pieces should be placed +in small Orchid pans or baskets, but larger ones may be potted at once +and placed on the stage with the other plants.</p> + +<p>Dendrobiums may also be propagated by dividing the plants, but a large +section of the genus may also be propagated by cuttings of the +pseudo-bulbs. This method is specially useful for increasing a rare and +fine variety of <i>Dendrobium nobile</i> or others of the section, as a good +supply of plants can quickly be obtained in this way. The method is to +cut the pseudo-bulbs into lengths of two or three inches and to place +them in small Orchid pans, six or eight in a pan, suspending the pan in +a warm, moist, house. The Thunia section of Phaius, <i>Epidendrum +radicans</i>, and some other Epidendrums and Orchids of similar growth may +be multiplied in this manner. Further remarks on propagation will be +found under the names of the genera enumerated.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2>CHAPTER VIII</h2> + +<h3>WATERING EPIPHYTAL ORCHIDS</h3> + + +<p>Success or failure with any class of Orchids depends largely on the +exercise of discretion in watering. While it may be said that more +specimens are lost by having too little water, especially among the +smaller-growing species,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[Pg 36]</a></span> than by over-watering, at the same time much +mischief is caused by a system of giving a little watering frequently +all the year round, and without any regard to the period of growth or +rest through which the plants are passing. Such treatment does not +provide for strong growth during the growing season, or adequate rest +after the growths are finished; consequently the plants decline in +health and the flowers are not satisfactory. Rain-water is the only +suitable water for Orchids, and the growers who can command a supply of +it all the year round possess a great advantage over those who have to +use water from any other source.</p> + +<p>During the period of growth and root action, too much water at the root +cannot easily be given, provided the material in which the plants are +potted is sufficiently porous and the pots or Orchid pans have a +sufficient drainage. The rule should be to water thoroughly when +watering at all, making sure that the whole of the potting material is +moistened well, then not to give more water to that plant until the +effect of the watering is seen to be passing, the plant being still +moist but approaching dryness, when the thorough watering should be +repeated. Nothing is more misleading than to pour a little water each +day on the surface of the material in which the plant is potted. This is +often considered to be careful watering, but it results in a large +number of the plants never getting thoroughly moist at the root, while +others in a retentive compost, or where the drainage is defective, +become soddened. Such cases may arise occasionally under any conditions, +and, where a thoroughly dry plant is found at a season when it should be +moist, it is better to plunge<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[Pg 37]</a></span> the pot or basket in water until it is +perfectly soaked. In the case of a plant which is too wet with stagnant +moisture, it should either be repotted after the wet potting material +has been removed, or placed on a shelf to remain without water until it +is again in a proper condition to receive it.</p> + +<p>In all cases a spouted watering-pot should be used. The rose +watering-pot and syringe are necessary things in the Orchid house, but +the use of them should be rigidly restricted to some definite work, such +as watering Orchids for the first time after repotting, sprinkling the +floors, staging, and brick walls, and other work which cannot cause +mischief. It used to be a common practice to water Orchids overhead with +a rose watering-pot, but the plants so watered made but few roots, and +the foliage was generally unsightly, owing to deposits from the water. +It is therefore best to make a rule against watering overhead in a +general way.</p> + +<p>The syringe may be used among Dendrobiums and some other warm-house +Orchids during the height of the growing season; but it would be safer +to arrange for such work to be done by means of a sprayer and at shorter +intervals. The sprayer is a very useful and beneficial contrivance, and, +in the hands of a careful operator using clean rain-water, it affords a +valuable aid in maintaining a healthily humid condition in the +atmosphere of all the Orchid houses, especially during the heat of the +summer.</p> + +<p>Equal in importance to the giving of sufficient water during the growing +season is the observance of the dry, resting season, which, in a varying +degree, is required by all Orchids, whether they come from hot or cold +habitats, and whether they are epiphytal or terrestrial species.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[Pg 38]</a></span></p> + + +<h3>WATERING TERRESTRIAL ORCHIDS</h3> + +<p>These, like the epiphytal Orchids, may be divided into two main classes, +namely, those which lose their leaves annually, and those which are more +or less evergreen. Some of the genera contain both of these classes, and +notably the Calanthes. In <i>C. vestita</i>, <i>C. Regnieri</i>, <i>C. rosea</i>, and +their varieties and hybrids the leaves turn yellow after the growths are +fully made up, a sign which gives a good indication as to the necessity +for withholding water for a lengthened period; while <i>Calanthe +veratrifolia</i> and others of the class retain the last-made foliage green +all the year round, the loss of foliage being in the old leaves, which +should be removed at the first sign of decay. With these latter may be +classed the Phaius, Zygopetalums, Cymbidiums, Cypripediums, and many +others of evergreen habit, which require much care to be exercised in +the matter of withholding water during the resting season, otherwise the +plants will decline in vigour. After the growths are finished, most of +these plants are benefited by removal to a cooler and more freely +ventilated house for a few weeks, during which time the supply of water +should be restricted, but they should never be allowed to suffer by +being thoroughly dried. For Zygopetalums and other Orchids which it is +customary to place in a rather drier atmosphere during the time they are +in flower, such an interval would be sufficient rest.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[Pg 39]</a></span></p> +<h2>CHAPTER IX</h2> + +<h3>MANURES FOR ORCHIDS</h3> + + +<p>It should be distinctly understood that, in the case of true epiphytes, +there is no need for manures, and, that artificial chemical manures are +almost certain to bring about disastrous results, the final collapse +being in proportion to the potency of the stimulant used and the +recklessness of the grower. Where rain-water can be obtained and stored +for use throughout the season, it is safest and most satisfactory to +rely on this alone, except for some terrestrial Orchids. The chief +difficulty in recommending the use of manures for any class of plants, +Orchids especially, is in the fact that, once the practice is commenced, +even those cultivators who begin cautiously frequently lose discretion +in the course of time and ruin their plants by excessive applications. +It is for this reason that the growers of plants for market purposes, +whose secret of success almost entirely depends on the use of manures, +are careful to give out the supplies to the men who have to use them, +or, with the very best intentions, they would often destroy a crop. +Indeed, it is not uncommon for foremen, or men in charge of departments +in large nurseries devoted to growing plants for market, to resort to +unfair means to get extra supplies of manure for their plants, and +frequently with bad results. There is another curious feature about the +use of manures in market-plant gardens, namely, that all concerned +observe the greatest secrecy in the matter, and rarely admit that they<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[Pg 40]</a></span> +use "anything but water"—that being the common expression. The same +secrecy is observed by the Orchid expert in most cases. Another thing is +that there is no common formula accepted by all practitioners. Each +seems to have his own opinions as to materials, quality, and strength of +the stimulants used.</p> + +<p>One thing is certain, that even where artificial manures are used, the +time of application and its discontinuance has more to do with success +or failure than the nature of the manure itself. Even in cases where the +administration of a mild stimulant is of use during the period of active +growth and free rooting, if the manure is not discontinued after growth +is completed much mischief is done.</p> + +<p>It is not necessary to go into the relative merits of chemical manures, +which are not recommended for use, but it may be stated that some +growers do use small quantities with apparently good results, +restricting the use of the manure to the active growing season and +during the time the flower-spikes are forming. Aërides, Saccolabiums, +and Vandas seem to be exceptions, as they represent the highest +development of the epiphyte. Odontoglossums and some similar Orchids +have been treated to a very small quantity of Peruvian guano sprinkled +in the water used for watering them in spring while the flowers were +forming, and without a bad effect; but the quantity used was very small, +and the water was not allowed to touch the leaves or pseudo-bulbs. One +grower on the Continent was in the habit of sprinkling a handful of +nitrate of soda in the gutter of the house, especially before, or during +heavy rain, in order that a little solution of it might be carried into +the rain-water tanks in the Orchid house. His plants throve well, and +this shows that even with epiphytal Orchids there is a field open for +experiment; but the operator must not lose sight of the fact that he is +"playing with edged tools." We will now state what has been proved to be +beneficial when carefully carried out. Those who grow batches of the +showy Dendrobiums such as <i>D. nobile</i>, <i>D. Wardianum</i>, <i>D. Phalænopsis</i>, +and others of the class, and who, at the growing season, place them in a +warm, moist house, suspended from the roof for preference, frequently +give them weak doses of liquid manure during the season of growth, and +the plants make very fine growth.</p> + +<p><a name="pl4" id="pl4"></a></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;"> +<img src="images/plate4.jpg" width="650" height="464" alt="PLATE IV + +CATTLEYA TRIANÆ + +Var. "Hydra" + +(The plant bore 88 flowers.)" title="" /> +<span class="caption">PLATE IV<br /> + +CATTLEYA TRIANÆ<br /> + +Var. "Hydra"<br /> + +(The plant bore 88 flowers.)</span> +</div> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[Pg 43]</a></span></p> + +<p>The liquid from farm-yard manure, or from a stable, should be avoided, +as its strength cannot be known; sometimes it is very weak, and at +others fatally strong. A large tub with liquid manure made of cow-dung, +and in which a coarse bag of soot has been sunk, is a safe manure for +any plant, and if properly diluted can do no harm to plants requiring +such a stimulant.</p> + +<p>Terrestrial Orchids such as Calanthes and Phaius can scarcely be grown +to their best without a liberal application of this, or some other +manure known to the operator to be safe, during their season of growth. +Cymbidiums, Zygopetalums, Peristerias, and other strong-growing Orchids +have also been treated to weak liquid manure from the commencement of +growth until the flowers expanded, with advantage so far as evidence is +available.</p> + +<p>An occasional watering of liquid manure, or slight sprinkling of guano, +may be given beneath the staging in the evenings during the growing +season.</p> + +<p>The structure of the roots of Orchids does not favour<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[Pg 44]</a></span> the idea that +they are suited for taking up stimulating liquid in the manner common to +fibrous-rooted plants.</p> + +<p>On the general question of the use of stimulants in Orchid culture many +clever men have carried out experiments. The late Dr. A. H. Smee went +into the question, basing his experiments on the chemical constituents +of the plants themselves, which is not an infallible guide.</p> + +<p>The late Norman C. Cookson carefully studied the subject, and he +recommended for experiment the following formula:—</p> + + + +<div class='center'> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary=""> +<tr><td align='left'>Potassium nitrate (saltpetre),</td><td align='left'>3 oz.</td></tr> +<tr><td align='left'>Ammonium phosphate,</td><td align='left'>2 oz.</td></tr> +</table></div> + + +<p>Dissolve in a three-gallon jar of soft water, and when watering growing +Orchids, or those perfecting their flowers, add one ounce of the +solution to each gallon of water.</p> + +<p>Again it must be urged that those experimenting with manures must do so +only on growing plants, and when growth is completed it must be stopped. +No Orchid grower should undertake such experiments without first +obtaining his employer's concurrence.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2>CHAPTER X</h2> + +<h3>RESTING ORCHIDS</h3> + + +<p>Whilst we may definitely say that all Orchids require a resting season +in some degree, the cultivator must be careful to arrange the resting +season, in the matter of its duration and other particulars, in +accordance with the nature of the plant, for in some classes of Orchids +it is very<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[Pg 45]</a></span> easy to do much mischief by subjecting them to a too +prolonged and rigorous resting time. Seedling Orchids, as a rule, +require little or no resting season until after their first flowering, +and Cattleyas, Læliocattleyas, and other evergreen hybrids require a +rather shorter period of rest than deciduous species.</p> + +<p>Bulbophyllums, Cirrhopetalums, and many other small-growing Orchids are +frequently killed by attempting to give them a dry resting season, +although there is a section which lose their leaves in winter like the +deciduous Dendrobiums, and these are benefited by being dried off in a +cooler house when the leaves fall, keeping them dry until growth starts +again, in the same manner as <i>Dendrobium nobile</i>, <i>D. Wardianum</i>, <i>D. +crassinode</i>, and other deciduous Dendrobiums.</p> + +<p>The evergreen Dendrobiums of the <i>D. densiflorum</i> and <i>D. Farmeri</i> class +require a short rest in a lower temperature, and should be watered a +little occasionally, especially if they show a tendency to shrivel, +which is not a good thing for any Orchid.</p> + +<p>Aërides, Vandas, and Saccolabiums require a lower temperature in winter, +and less water. Many of these begin to grow in March; after that season +they require heat and moisture more liberally.</p> + +<p>As a rule, the plants themselves give the best indication when the +resting season has arrived, and, in the case of those which lose their +leaves, they show how much rest is necessary. The starting of the new +growth indicates when growing conditions should be restored. In respect +to the very small-growing species, and especially evergreen kinds, it is +much better to ignore the resting season rather than to lower the +vitality of the plants by a severe drying off.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[Pg 46]</a></span></p> +<h2>CHAPTER XI</h2> + +<h3>SPECIALLY RARE AND VALUABLE PLANTS</h3> + + +<p>While every plant in the collection should be given the best possible +care and attention, it is advisable to keep the more rare and valuable +specimens immediately under the eye of the grower. It is often the case +that albinos, rare varieties, and new species are allowed to get mixed +up in the general collection, and a plant that could not be replaced may +be hidden by the commoner things which are not of so much consequence. +In the case of the best spotted varieties of <i>Odontoglossum crispum</i>, +albino Cattleyas, and other exceptionally rare things, it is a good plan +to arrange a batch of them together in the most suitable part of the +house, or to place each on an inverted flower-pot at intervals along the +staging, thus bringing them into prominence and facilitating the +inspection of each at all times. Some use wire plant stands instead of +inverted pots, but the moisture-holding flower-pots are preferable, if +they are inspected occasionally to see that they are not harbouring +insects. Albinos and fine varieties of Cattleyas and Lælias could be +grown in suspended Orchid pans or baskets, to take them out of the +general collection, and so grown they would make better progress than if +placed on the stages. In the case of any plant not making satisfactory +growth it is often beneficial to place it on an inverted pot to bring it +more prominently under notice.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[Pg 47]</a></span></p> +<h2>CHAPTER XII</h2> + +<h3>DISEASES AND INSECT PESTS</h3> + + +<p>There is very much in the old-time advice, "Grow your plants clean," for +a very large proportion of Orchid diseases and insect pests are due to +errors in cultivation, more especially in the regulation of the +temperature and the ventilation. Insanitary houses lower the vitality of +the plants, and vegetation, like human beings, is a prey to disease when +kept in unhealthy conditions.</p> + +<p>Spot, or Orchid disease, exhibits itself in various forms. It is caused, +as scientists say, by different micro-organisms, but in effect it is +practically the same whether in the form known as "Spot," often seen in +Phalænopsis, Aërides, and Vandas, or in the decayed and blackened +pseudo-bulbs of Cattleyas, especially <i>C. Warscewiczii</i> (gigas), which +from an apparently healthy plant may develop a diseased condition of the +pseudo-bulbs, and become useless in a few days. In all such diseases it +will be seen that the tissues have collapsed, the result being brown or +blackish spots on leaves or bulbs. Imperfect nutrition from lack of +healthy roots is a frequent cause of this mischief, for Aërides and +Vandas which have been affected with "Spot" recover in the new growth, +for a time at least, if a satisfactory root action can be set up.</p> + +<p>Propagation, by freeing the recently made parts of the plants from the +old and worn-out back portions, which are not furnished with the roots +necessary to support themselves<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[Pg 48]</a></span> is one of the best means of preventing +Orchid diseases, and efforts should be made to keep the plants vigorous +and, therefore, capable of resisting attacks by insect pests.</p> + +<p>Plants are also benefited greatly by having their position in the houses +changed, and that is one of the great advantages of the periodical +inspection, for during this process the relative positions of the plants +are altered.</p> + +<p>It should be said that Cattleyas and other common Orchids badly affected +by disease had better be burnt, for it is cheaper to buy a healthy young +plant than to waste time in trying to bring the unsightly and diseased +specimens back to health.</p> + +<p>The Cattleya Fly (<i>Isosoma orchidearum</i>), first imported probably with +<i>Cattleya Dowiana</i>, and frequently with other Cattleyas since, affects +the new growths, the grubs causing them to swell and rendering the +growth useless. The same species, or one closely allied, also attacks +the young roots of Cattleyas, Lælias, and their hybrids, causing +unsightly galls on the points of the roots. Fumigation, with some safe +preparation to destroy the fly, should be carried out, and every young +growth and root-point as soon as they are seen to be affected should be +cut off and burnt. By adopting these remedies it is possible to get rid +of the pest. In purchasing freshly imported plants, care should be taken +to reject those which show signs of having been affected by the fly.</p> + +<p>Thrips, Red Spider, and Aphides occasionally appear in every collection, +and the remedy is fumigation and sponging with an insecticide, which +some growers prepare for themselves, either by pouring boiling water +over coarse tobacco tied up in a cloth and adding a little soft soap, or +by<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[Pg 49]</a></span> making an infusion of quassia chips. But excellent insecticides can +be purchased already prepared, which are guaranteed to be safe and +effective, and being of uniform strength, they may be used with +confidence if the instructions given with the preparations are observed +strictly.</p> + +<p>Avoid using paraffin and emulsions of paraffin, for it is dangerous, not +only to the plants sponged with it, but to all the plants in the house, +for it affects the atmosphere.</p> + + +<h3>SCALE INSECTS</h3> + +<p>These appear much less in collections now than formerly, because the old +large specimens are replaced by young and vigorous plants. Thirty or +forty years ago, it was a usual thing to spend several days every year +scraping the brown scales from tall plants of <i>Aërides odoratum</i>, <i>Vanda +tricolor</i>, and other specimen Orchids, and what was called "cleaning" +was going on all the year round. Now there is much less need of such +work, although scale will appear in its various species on one section +of plants or another. In the periodical inspections, all plants attacked +by it should have the insects removed by a piece of stick blunted at the +edge and point, sponging the leaves afterwards with some diluted +insecticide. Syringing with an insecticide, or dipping the plants in the +liquid, should be avoided, for the quantity applied is likely to +saturate the material in which the plants are potted and to run into the +centres of the young growths and cause injury. By means of a sponge, it +may be applied lightly or heavily, but the operator has command in each +case over what he is doing.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[Pg 50]</a></span></p> + + +<h3>MEALY BUG</h3> + +<p>Fortunately this pest is rare in Orchid houses, but when it appears it +is easily destroyed in the same manner as scale.</p> + + +<h3>COCKROACHES</h3> + +<p>The first of these insects to be noticed should be the signal for the +laying of poison. Search should be made for the breeding quarters, which +are often in the stoke-hole, or in some hot, dry corner of the house. +Various preparations are recommended, but the best still seems to be the +old phosphor paste, which should be placed on pieces of paper in the +haunts of the insects in the evening, and removed the next morning, a +fresh supply being put down every two or three days so long as one of +the insects remains.</p> + + +<h3>SLUGS, SNAILS, AND WOODLICE</h3> + +<p>To combat these is more a question of diligence than anything else. The +old remedies to attract them, such as lettuce leaves, or hollowed halves +of potatoes, are still effective, and a walk round the houses with a +light at night never goes unrewarded.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2>CHAPTER XIII</h2> + +<h3>PERIODICAL INSPECTION</h3> + + +<p>Whenever the time is to be spared, it is a good plan to overhaul one or +other of the sections of Orchids thoroughly, and to have a more general +inspection as soon as possible after the winter has passed, and at the +end of the summer,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[Pg 51]</a></span> this latter inspection being the more important. +Cleanliness in everything around Orchids is one of the most important +aids to successful culture, and, during the periodical inspections, +plants which are not clean should be cleansed, their pots where it is +required washed, and the staging and any part of the house requiring it +thoroughly cleansed before the plants are rearranged. During the course +of the work certain plants which would be benefited by being repotted, +or divided, will be found, and these should be given attention. The +water in the tub in which the green deposit on the pots has been removed +by scrubbing, and as much of the other water used in cleansing as can be +dealt with, should be poured down a drain outside the Orchid house. If +thrown on the floor of the house, it leaves an unpleasant odour, which +is harmful and lasts a long time.</p> + +<p>During the inspection at the end of the summer the staging should be +repaired where necessary, the heating apparatus carefully overhauled and +defects made good, in order to minimise the risk of having to do the +work during the cold weather. Where it is deemed advisable to black the +hot-water piping, use only lamp-black and oil. Paint gives off injurious +gases for a considerable time, and where persons have been incautious +enough to use gas-tar the most lamentable results have followed, the +mischief lasting for years. These periodical inspections and +rearrangement of the plants are also useful in preventing the same +plants occupying the same positions for too long a time. A change of +position in the house is beneficial, even where the plants are not +crowded; but in collections where the plants are closely arranged, to +change their positions frequently,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[Pg 52]</a></span> goes far to mitigate the evil +arising from want of space. In preparing for a thorough inspection of +the plants in a house, it is desirable to remove a number of the plants +to another house to make room to examine the rest without risk of +breakage, the plants removed at the commencement being returned to fill +the space remaining after the work has been completed.</p> + +<p>The Orchid grower is always supposed to have the plants under his direct +inspection and to treat them with individual care, but these occasional +reviews often reveal defects in some of the specimens which would +otherwise have escaped for some considerable time.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2>CHAPTER XIV</h2> + +<h3>ORCHIDS FOR THE CONSERVATORY</h3> + + +<p>There are many dwelling-houses of moderate pretensions, especially in +towns and suburban districts, in which the sole accommodation for +plant-growing consists of the conservatory adjoining the house, and this +is, in most cases, heated by one or other of the simple means at command +for the purpose. The contents of such structures are usually +unsatisfactory, the Pelargoniums, Fuchsias, and other soft-wooded plants +which are arranged with some of the hardier Palms and Ferns being drawn +into spindly growth, which results in a miserable supply of flowers for +a short season, and afterwards in decaying foliage, which is not +ornamental. Quite a new interest would open up to<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[Pg 53]</a></span> the owners of such +places were they to turn their attention to acquiring from time to time +a few of the Orchids which are now to be procured as cheaply as the less +suitable plants, such as Pelargoniums. Already some successes have been +recorded in this direction.</p> + +<p>Let us consider the different classes of conservatories, and the species +most likely to succeed in them.</p> + +<p>To take first the commonest kind of small conservatory attached to villa +gardens. These are unheated structures except in the winter months, when +the temperature cannot be kept from getting below 45° Fahr. without the +aid of one of the oil-stove heating apparatus, or heat turned on from +the pipe connected with the kitchen range, where arrangements for doing +so have been provided. These means of applying artificial heat should be +used as little as possible, and only to prevent the temperature falling +below 45° Fahr., for in confined spaces and with such means of heating, +the atmosphere is better for the plants without the use of artificial +heat, whenever the house can be kept from getting too cold without it. +In such conservatories, many of the Odontoglossums, Masdevallias, +<i>Oncidium varicosum</i>, <i>O. crispum</i>, <i>O. prætextum</i>, <i>O. Gardneri</i>, the +pretty scarlet <i>Sophronitis grandiflora</i>, <i>Epidendrum vitellinum</i>, +<i>Lycaste Skinneri</i>, <i>Cypripedium insigne</i>, <i>Disa grandiflora</i>, and a +number of other pretty and inexpensive species can be grown +satisfactorily, especially if the Oncidiums, Sophronitis, <i>Odontoglossum +Rossii majus</i>, and other of the smaller species be placed in baskets for +suspending, a means of cultivation which suits them best, and adds to +their decorative effect.</p> + +<p>The next step is the larger conservatory adjoining<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[Pg 54]</a></span> many town and +suburban dwellings. These are heated by a small boiler with hot-water +pipes, a means, it should be said, which is the only satisfactory method +of heating glass structures. To the species indicated for the smaller +and less safely heated structures may be added a very wide range of +subjects of great beauty. In such a structure the Palms supplying +decorative foliage may be much restricted, or entirely dispensed with, +as <i>Cymbidium Lowianum</i>, <i>C. giganteum</i>, <i>C. Tracyanum</i>, and any others +of the section having evergreen leaves of much grace, are decorative +plants at all seasons, and possess the further advantage of being +furnished with fine spikes of flowers for several months in the year. +These large and strong-growing species are specially adapted for the +conservatory, an Orchid house being unnecessary for them.</p> + +<p>To the heated conservatory also may now be handed over the showier +species and hybrids of the South American Cypripediums (Selenipediums), +which, probably because of their very free-growing nature rendering them +too large for the Orchid house, and the ready manner in which they may +be increased, have caused them to be slighted lately by growers of +collections of Orchids. The air of the conservatory, rather drier than +that of the Orchid house, suits these plants admirably. Their bright +evergreen foliage and tall sprays of white and rose, or greenish flowers +tinged with purple, which often by succession keep the specimens in +bloom for six months in the year, render them beautiful and interesting +subjects for the conservatory.</p> + +<p>The strongest and best kinds to be acquired are <i>Selenipedium +longifolium</i>, <i>S. Sedenii</i>, <i>S. cardinale</i>, <i>S. calurum</i>, <i>S. grande</i>, +<i>S. Schröderæ</i>, and <i>S. albo-purpureum</i>.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[Pg 55]</a></span></p> + +<p><i>Cypriperium Charlesworthii</i>, <i>C. Spicerianum</i>, and <i>C. Leeanum</i> should +also be added. The larger, heated conservatories might well be furnished +with the Orchids recommended rather than the plants generally used for +decorating them, for these have to be changed frequently. The Orchids, +if carefully tended, will grow permanently in the conservatory and be a +source of never-failing interest. In these large conservatories, +Stanhopeas in baskets for suspending are ornamental plants, and +Sobralias on the floor or central bed would prove satisfactory. To those +enumerated many more might be added, but in all cases it is best to get +only evergreen kinds, which may be grown continuously in the same house.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2>CHAPTER XV</h2> + +<h3>ORCHIDS AS CUT FLOWERS</h3> + + +<p>Orchids having flowers with persistent perianths, in which the segments +do not drop as in many other flowers, are of the highest value for cut +flowers, as some or other of them can be obtained in every month in the +year. Large quantities of the large-flowered Cattleyas, especially <i>C. +labiata</i>, of <i>C. Harrisoniana</i> and its near ally <i>C. Loddigesii</i>, +<i>Odontoglossum crispum</i>, <i>O. Pescatorei</i>, Dendrobiums, and other showy +Orchids are grown for cut flowers in nurseries where Orchids are not +required for other than market purposes. In many private gardens, also, +the same kinds of Orchids are grown for decorative purposes, even +without<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[Pg 56]</a></span> a desire to grow a general collection. Those who arrange for a +general collection of Orchids as their primary object often cut the +flowers for their own use, or to give to their friends, and the +following remarks may be useful to all classes of growers.</p> + +<p>A large proportion of the flowers of Orchids used for decorative +purposes are in a great degree wasted by being cut in an immature state +soon after the buds have expanded. Such flowers last but a very short +time, and, if used for decoration by night, are only presentable for one +evening. Orchid flowers should not be cut until they are fully mature +and their tissues hardened. They last longer even if they are cut after +they are past their best, than they do if cut too soon after expanding. +When mature, the flowers require less support from moisture passing up +the stem than most flowers, but if cut in an undeveloped state +sufficient moisture cannot be obtained through the stems, even if well +supplied with water, to continue the development, and the petals droop +and the flowers soon wither.</p> + +<p><a name="pl5" id="pl5"></a></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;"> +<img src="images/plate5.jpg" width="650" height="474" alt="PLATE V + +BRASSO-CATTLEYA DIGBYANO-MOSSIÆ + +"Westonbirt Variety" + +(Raised from a cross between Brassavola Digbyana and Cattleya +Mossiæ.)" title="" /> +<span class="caption">PLATE V<br /> + +BRASSO-CATTLEYA DIGBYANO-MOSSIÆ<br /> + +"Westonbirt Variety"<br /> + +(Raised from a cross between Brassavola Digbyana and Cattleya +Mossiæ.)</span> +</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[Pg 59]</a></span></p> + +<p>When Orchid flowers are to be used for decorative purposes, no matter in +what stage of development they may be, it adds greatly to their +durability if they are placed head downward, thoroughly immersed in +clean water (rain-water for preference), and kept so immersed until an +hour or so before they are set up, gently shaking the water from them, +and placing them on a cloth or some dry, cool surface until wanted. +Treated in this way, Orchid flowers will last for weeks instead of days. +The method should be to take them out of the dining-room or other place +where they have been used after the guests have departed each evening. +Have ready a large earthenware pan filled with water, and in it immerse +the Orchid flowers, leaving them immersed until shortly before they are +required to be set up again next day, repeating the same treatment every +night. Managed in this way, sprays of Odontoglossums and other Orchids +often last for weeks, and look better than freshly cut immature flowers +do even on the first day. Flowers received by post should always be +treated to the bath for some hours, and, during immersion, any defects +which are reparable will be made good and the duration of the flowers +ensured, especially if the immersion be repeated as before recommended. +In this way Masdevallia, Sobralia, and other fugacious flowers may be +used for decorative purposes for two evenings at least, but in the +absence of immersion they would wither in a very short time. It might +also be said that the Maidenhair Fern, also <i>Asparagus plumosus</i>, and +other foliage used with the cut Orchids are materially benefited by +immersion, the Maidenhair Fern especially; it should always be kept +immersed until required for use.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2>CHAPTER XVI</h2> + +<h3>IMPORTING ORCHIDS</h3> + + +<p>Many interesting Orchids have been imported by amateurs who have friends +or correspondents in the countries which the Orchids inhabit, and many +more would have arrived alive if the persons who sent them possessed +some knowledge of the best methods of collecting, packing, and +forwarding<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[Pg 60]</a></span> the plants. The want of this knowledge often results in the +trouble the collector has taken being in vain, and disappointment to the +receiver who gets the dead plants and has to tell his correspondent the +sad tale of failure.</p> + +<p>Orchids should be gathered and forwarded during their resting season, +and with a sufficient time between their being sent off and their +natural growing season to allow of the period of their transit being +made before their resting season expires. This rule is often needlessly +violated by those who are settled in the district from whence they are +sending the Orchids, and who could easily wait until the resting season +comes round. For those who are travelling and have to take the Orchids +when they can and in whatever condition they may be, however, there is +some excuse, and by carefully forwarding the plants, even although at +the wrong season, many may get them over alive. Residents in the tropics +often grow a collection of Orchids, bringing to the gardens around their +residences the plants collected in distant parts of their districts. +These growers have a notion that cultivated plants are the best to send +their correspondents, therefore, although they could collect fresh +plants, they think it safer to send those in their own gardens. These +are the very worst plants to travel. They are usually collected in high +localities, and their sojourn in a garden results in lowered vitality, +which explains why a large proportion die during the journey to this +country.</p> + +<p>Freshly collected plants, in whatever stage they may be, are the best, +the ideal conditions being to take the plants at mid-resting season, to +have the case to receive them beneath the trees on which they are +growing, to pack them off at<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[Pg 61]</a></span> once to a shipping agent at the port of +embarkation, to catch a steamer previously timed, and to consign the +case or cases to a reliable shipping agent in England.</p> + +<p>Another cause of mortality in Orchids during transit arises from the +mistaken notion that the plants require to be prepared by drying before +packing, and this practice is continued so long and rigorously in many +cases that the plants are half dead before they are despatched.</p> + +<p>No such preparation is needed; the plants should be packed at once after +collecting, and any moisture which may be in them will escape through +the small holes in the case. The parcels post is available from many +parts of the tropics, and from some places it is the only reliable means +of getting Orchids over in a reasonable time. But it is only available +for small lots, and for these it forms the best means of forwarding. +Unfortunately, there are drawbacks even to these means, for the parcels, +especially from some ports, are frequently stowed in hot chambers on +board the mail steamer, the object being to keep the mails dry, and +plant-life is destroyed by the excessive heat.</p> + +<p>Epiphytal Orchids with pseudo-bulbs, such as Cattleyas, Lælias, and +Epidendrums, if collected at or near the proper season, require very +little packing. The cases being ready, it is necessary to place a layer +of plants at the bottom, with their heads all facing one way. The next +layer is placed with the heads the reverse way, and so on until the box +is full of plants firmly pressed in, but not sufficiently close to cause +injury. During the packing a few struts of wood should be placed across +the inside and fastened by nails driven into their ends from the +outside; these will prevent the plants from forming a<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[Pg 62]</a></span> mass and rolling +about when the boxes are moved. A few small holes should be bored in the +boxes to admit a little air.</p> + +<p>Leafy epiphytal Orchids, such as Phalænopsis, Aërides, Vandas, and +Saccolabiums, may be forwarded in the same way, but with a sprinkling of +fine paper cuttings, layers of paper, fine but not resinous shavings, or +dry moss between each row of plants. In respect to species which do not +possess pseudo-bulbs it is absolutely necessary that they be sent at the +proper resting season, if forwarded in bulk in boxes.</p> + +<p>Phalænopsis for sending at any time are prepared by collectors in Java +and the Philippines by establishing the plants on blocks. They are +almost the only temporarily cultivated Orchids which often travel well +when so managed, and they are usually sent fastened round the sides and +backs of Wardian cases, a method which is somewhat costly. Terrestrial +Orchids, such as Phaius, Calanthes, and others with above-ground +pseudo-bulbs, if collected at the proper resting season, travel well +packed in cases of moderate size and with a little dry packing material +placed between the rows. The danger with these kinds is that the +pseudo-bulbs, being soft and containing much moisture, are liable to +decay, and a few damaged plants may cause the loss of all contained in +the box.</p> + +<p>Tuberous-rooted, terrestrial Orchids of the same nature as the British +Orchis, and including the African Disas, and Satyriums, also the +Habenarias of different regions, should be marked when in flower and +lifted in the resting season, the tubers being placed in small boxes +with a sprinkling of nearly dry sandy peat or sand, run in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[Pg 63]</a></span> between the +tubers. If there are several different kinds to be forwarded, all the +small boxes containing them may be packed together in a larger box.</p> + +<p>Next to the trouble caused by loss in transit is that of having plants +arrive without any means of identification. The collector should be +careful to write the name of every specimen on an imperishable label, +or, better still, send each under a number and forward a numbered list +with the names corresponding to the numbers on each kind sent. Those who +are collecting Orchids should, as often as possible, dry specimens of +the growth and flowers of each kind, forwarding one set, numbered +similarly to the set retained, to their correspondent, or to some +authority, for identification. A description or rough sketch of the +plant should be given on the same sheet as the dried specimens, stating +such important particulars as colour of flowers, altitude of habitat, +and exact locality.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2>CHAPTER XVII</h2> + +<h3>TREATMENT OF IMPORTED ORCHIDS</h3> + + +<p>Much depends on the condition of the importations, whether they have +been collected at the proper time, and whether they have been properly +packed and forwarded. Many imported Orchids offered for sale cannot +possibly do well, as from improper packing they have "heated," or been +subjected to excessive heat or cold whilst on board. Cases of Orchids +awaiting transit are often left on the landings in the full sun and +become partially desiccated,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[Pg 64]</a></span> though while dry still retaining a green +appearance. Such collectors' failures die rapidly as soon as heat and +moisture are given, and, even in the case of those which seem to +establish a healthy appearance of the pseudo-bulbs, growth is not +possible, as the growth-buds have been dried up. It is waste of time +trying to bring such plants round, therefore care should be taken not to +purchase them at any price.</p> + +<p>Imported Orchids of all kinds should be trimmed over as soon as they are +received, the damaged parts removed, and the plants placed in a +cool-intermediate temperature after they have been sponged over. They +may be suspended for a few days and afterwards placed in small pots of +broken crocks. Pseudo-bulbous Orchids, such as Odontoglossums and +Cattleyas, should not be watered, but they may be sponged occasionally +until growth commences, when they should be potted in the usual manner.</p> + +<p>Aërides, Saccolabiums, Vandas, Angræcums, and other Orchids not having +pseudo-bulbs may be treated in the same way as the pseudo-bulbous kinds, +it being probably the safer and more cautious policy. But good results, +and a quicker establishment may be secured, if the plants are +recoverable by immersing them for five minutes in a rain-water tank +immediately on arrival, suspending them head downwards from the roof of +the house afterwards, and repeating the dipping two or three times a +week. This method has the advantage at least that those which were not +recoverable are quickly discovered, while the sound plants soon plump +up. With all imported plants there is no use potting them permanently +and watering them until growth commences, but they must not be kept too +hot in the meantime.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[Pg 65]</a></span></p> +<h2>CHAPTER XVIII</h2> + +<h3>ODOURS OF ORCHIDS</h3> + + +<p>Many Orchids have fragrant flowers, while in some sections the fragrance +is emitted by the whole plant. A large number of Burmese and Indian, +highland Orchids, such as <i>Dendrobium moschatum</i>, the section of +deciduous Bulbophyllums which includes <i>B. auricomum</i>, <i>B. hirtum</i>, <i>B. +comosum</i>, and <i>B. suavissimum</i>, have leaves that on becoming dry after +falling give off a strong odour of newly-mown hay, the plants also in +all their parts being similarly scented when dry, even the cases +containing them being pleasantly scented by the plants.</p> + +<p>The odours of Orchid flowers may generally be likened to well-known +perfumes. <i>Trichopilia suavis</i>, <i>Miltonia Roezlii</i>, and others are +scented like the Rose; <i>Odontoglossum odoratum</i> and some other +Odontoglossums, <i>Maxillaria picta</i> and other Maxillarias, like the +Hawthorn. Certain Maxillarias of the <i>M. luteo-alba</i> section are scented +like Honeysuckle, and odour similar to the Tuberose is given off by many +Angræcums. Some have a much stronger odour at night than in the day, a +peculiarity which is found in <i>Epidendrum nocturnum</i>, <i>E. ciliare</i>, and +many species. Vanilla is a common scent in Orchids, being present in +some Vandas. The odour of Violets is furnished by <i>Dendrobium +heterocarpum</i> and others of its class, and the Primrose, Wallflower, and +other common garden plants have their exact imitators in the matter of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[Pg 66]</a></span> +scent in some tropical Orchids—indeed, it is an interesting subject to +consider how plants resemble each other in this particular. Then there +are large numbers of Orchids with such delicate odours that some are +unable to appreciate them, but they are specially grateful to those who +detect them. Again, some Orchids have different odours at different +times in the day. It is not safe, therefore, to declare a plant +scentless unless it has been tested repeatedly at different times.</p> + +<p>Variation in odour has been noticed. We remember flowering the first +<i>Odontoglossum hebraicum</i>, and on testing it its odour was of cinnamon. +It passed to Sir Trevor Lawrence's collection, and we asked the late Mr. +Spyers to test the odour, and he replied that it was of Hawthorn, like +others of its class. He tested it several times with the same result, +but for some time before it passed off he reported to us that it smelt +exactly like cinnamon. Then there are odours in Orchids about which +opinions are divided as to whether they are pleasant or not. <i>Oncidium +ornithorhynchum</i> is an example; some like the odour of it very much, +while it is disagreeable to others. The same applies to Anguloas, some +Lycastes and Stanhopeas with strongly aromatic scent, which are pleasant +at a distance, but not so when too closely approached. But the majority +are distinctly pleasant, <i>Cattleya Dowiana</i> and its hybrids, <i>C. +Eldorado</i> and others, being delicately fragrant.</p> + +<p>A very few are malodorous, <i>Bulbophyllum Beccari</i> not being tolerable +under any circumstances, the flowers smelling like some of the +Stapelias.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[Pg 67]</a></span></p> +<h2>CHAPTER XIX</h2> + +<h3>HYBRIDISING AND RAISING SEEDLING ORCHIDS</h3> + + +<p>A new interest has been added to Orchid culture by the pursuit of +hybridising and raising seedling Orchids, which commenced with <i>Calanthe +Dominyi</i>, raised in the nurseries of Messrs. Veitch and recorded in the +<i>Gardeners' Chronicle</i> in 1858. The practice has now become general, and +a large number of Orchidists arrange for the production of new Orchids +from seeds, while even in small collections some attention is given to +the matter. When the engrossing pursuit is first taken up, the operator +should neglect no opportunity to make himself conversant with the +structure of the flowers. This may be done effectually by carefully +examining any available flowers, and by making longitudinal sections of +the bloom by cutting them in two, commencing at the apex of the column +and finishing at the ovary and pedicel. This operation exposes the +various organs that are concerned in the fertilisation of the flower.</p> + +<p>In most Orchids, such for instance as Lælias and Cattleyas, it will be +seen that the pollen masses are situated at the apex of the column +covered by the anther cap, the stigma being in a cavity in the face of +the column beneath it.</p> + +<p>In Cypripedium there are two developed anthers; the viscous pollen +masses are not enclosed in cases, but are placed opposite each other; +the stigma is a shield-shaped<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[Pg 68]</a></span> body seen inside the lip on the under +side of the column, and the stigmatic surface is not viscous.</p> + +<p>The details of the structure of the flowers being fully understood, it +will readily be seen that the first process in the production of seeds +is to fertilise the flower intended to bear the seed capsule with the +pollen of the other parent selected. This is readily accomplished by +lifting the pollen masses beneath the anther-cap with a thin pencil or +sharpened stick and placing them on the stigmatic surface of the +seed-bearing parent.</p> + +<p>Flowers which are intended to be fertilised for seed-bearing should have +their own pollen carefully removed before the pollen taken from the +other plant is introduced, the pollen removed being used to effect the +reverse cross, or to fertilise another species if desired.</p> + +<p>In fertilising small flowers with the pollen of larger species, as in +the case of <i>Sophronitis grandiflora</i> with the pollinia of the larger +species, the pollen masses may be cut and a portion of it used in +crossing the smaller flower. When the flower of a plant has been +fertilised, the plant should receive special attention; if it is a +Cattleya, Lælia, or one of the large-growing epiphytes, it should, after +the pseudo-bulb bearing the flower has had a number attached to it +corresponding to the number in the stock-book in which the crosses are +recorded, be suspended from the roof in a comfortable and not draughty +situation. If the plant is in a pot, the pot should be placed in a +basket and suspended; or if a suitable position can be found on the +stage, it could be placed on an inverted pot to bring it into prominence +and secure for it careful attention. Where there is a number of +seed-bearing plants, they<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[Pg 69]</a></span> should be arranged together in the respective +houses in which they are grown.</p> + +<p>Early in its development, the seed capsule should be supported by ties, +which, however, should not bring it into an unnatural position, or press +tightly on the part supported. From this time failure may arise from the +conflicting natures of the agents used, or from various causes. Even the +production of a fine and seemingly mature fruit is not a certain +indication of good seeds, for seed capsules have been produced by +irritation of the stigmatic surface by grit or dust, but no fertile +seeds can be thus produced. On approaching maturity, a tie should be +made round the middle of the capsule to prevent loss of seed when the +splitting of the capsule takes place, and, when it is thoroughly mature, +it should be removed, placed in a flower-pot lined with tissue-paper, +and put on a shelf in a dry potting-shed until so thoroughly ripe that +the seeds are being shed in the tissue-paper covering.</p> + +<p>At this stage it is possible for the first time to determine whether the +seed, or any of it, is good or not. Examination with a strong lens will +show whether the minute seeds are good or not by the presence or absence +of the embryo in the centre of the elongated covering, which in +imperfectly developed specimens is chaff-like and not thickened in the +middle as are good seeds. Where no good seeds are found, it is the +custom of some growers to discard it at once, and where but few good +seeds appear, attempts are made to discard the chaff and to retain the +supposed good ones for sowing. Where space admits, however, especially +with the beginner, it would be more prudent to sow a portion of the +contents of the capsule, whether supposed to be good or not.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[Pg 70]</a></span></p> + + +<h3>SEED SOWING</h3> + +<p>A number of the seeds of all seed capsules should be sown as soon as +they are ready, the remainder being carefully stored for sowing later if +required, the seeds sown and those retained being carefully marked with +the number in the record book.</p> + +<p>The manner of sowing the seeds varies in different establishments, +satisfactory results having been obtained under very dissimilar +conditions. Failure at first is the usual record of the amateur taking +up Orchid hybridisation, although some few get fairly good success from +the commencement, while those who have had a run of bad luck usually +conquer in the end if they persevere. A scientific reason for some +failures has been given, namely, that an endophytic fungus said to be +necessary to the development of the freshly germinated seeds is wanting +in the early stages, but may be developed naturally after a time, and a +better state of growth result. Be that as it may, it is a curious fact +that the line of demarcation between failure and success in the matter +of raising seedling Orchids is very narrow, and, when the operator +succeeds in raising a fair proportion of the seeds sown, he is generally +surprised at his former want of success, apparently under practically +similar conditions. Formerly the common practice was to sow the seeds on +the surface of the material in which the parent plant was growing, or a +plant of some kindred variety. This practice has been generally +satisfactory and continues in most amateur collections to the present +day. A plant in a basket, or suspended pan or<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[Pg 71]</a></span> pot, is best, the subject +being chosen for the good quality of the peat, Osmunda fibre, or +whatever material the plant may be growing in. The Sphagnum-moss on the +surface should be clipped very short, the plant thoroughly watered with +rain water, and allowed to drain for a few hours. The seeds should be +sown a few at a time, on the point of a knife or thin strip of hard wood +or ivory, and carefully and evenly distributed over the surface of the +material in which the selected plant is growing. In all cases the number +of the record in the stock-book should be attached, a small celluloid +tablet fastened by a thin wire being the best label, as it is clean and +durable. Hybrids of Lælia, Cattleya, and other true epiphytes should be +suspended in a warm, intermediate house, and Cypripediums and +terrestrial Orchids may be sown in a similar manner in the pots of +either the seed-bearing subject or similar kinds and placed in a moist, +sheltered corner of a house, in which a genial warmth is maintained, the +plants being elevated on inverted flower-pots. Once the seeds are sown, +the plants fostering them should never be allowed to get dry.</p> + +<p>Odontoglossum seeds come up best when sown on the surface of established +plants in the manner described. To ensure the best results two or three +sowings of each should be made, and the plants bearing the freshly sown +seeds placed in different parts of the house, some being suspended and +others placed on the stage.</p> + +<p>The maintenance of a continual and even amount of moisture after sowing, +and until the seedling plants send forth roots, is of the highest +importance. To water either with a spouted or a rose pot overhead would +wash the seeds<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[Pg 72]</a></span> away. To avoid this, some resort to the practice of +dipping the plants on which the seeds are sown, allowing the water to +reach only to within an inch of the surface of the compost. This is +better than watering overhead. Spraying with rain-water is an excellent +means of securing uniform moisture, although it requires more care and +attention than dipping. The sprayer is a great help in all stages of +seedling Orchid growth, not only as a means of conveying moisture +direct, but by spraying around the plants and on the staging it is a +great aid to maintaining a moist atmosphere. Let the moisture be +conveyed in whatever manner it may, it must not be forgotten that the +seeds will perish soon after germination if allowed to get quite dry, +either from failure of moisture in the material on which they are sown, +or from an excessively dry air surrounding them. Against the +above-mentioned practice of sowing the seeds on established plants, it +is urged that in that way there is no certain means of keeping the +different crosses from being mixed, by reason of the seeds of one kind +getting into the water-tank and being thus conveyed and mixed with +others; and by seeds falling from plants suspended overhead and coming +up on plants beneath, and in other unexpected places. Such acquisitions, +though often very acceptable, are puzzling, as there is no record of +their origin, or if they come up amongst seeds which have a record, the +chance introductions sometimes have a wrong parentage assigned to them.</p> + +<p><a name="pl6" id="pl6"></a></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;"> +<img src="images/plate6.jpg" width="650" height="434" alt="PLATE VI + +CYMBIDIUM LOWIO-EBURNEUM + +(This plant has been commended for its culture on two separate occasions +by the R.H.S.)" title="" /> +<span class="caption">PLATE VI<br /> + +CYMBIDIUM LOWIO-EBURNEUM<br /> + +(This plant has been commended for its culture on two separate occasions +by the R.H.S.)</span> +</div><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[Pg 75]</a></span></p> + +<p>To lessen such risks, it is the custom of some growers to arrange a +seed-raising case, constructed like an ordinary propagating case, in +form like a miniature lean-to, or span-roofed Orchid house. This is +arranged over a part of the staging where there is a slight warmth from +the hot-water pipes. The staging has a few inches of cocoa-nut fibre, or +chopped Osmunda fibre, fine ballast, or other moisture-holding +substance, and on this a number of inverted flower-pots are closely +arranged to form stands for the pots or pans in which the material for +sowing the seeds on is placed: or a light, open wood-work staging is +arranged. The favourite surface for sowing the seeds on is prepared by +stretching a small square of coarse calico or fine light muslin shading +material over a ball of Sphagnum-moss, and pressing it into a 60 or +small 48 size flower-pot, so that the unwrinkled convex surface of the +ball has the centre just below the level of the rim of the pots, the +sides being lower. These are thoroughly soaked and allowed to drain +before sowing the seeds on them, and they are then placed on the +inverted pots in the case. The covering of the case is sometimes of the +nature of hinged sashes to lift from the front, but the most convenient +and best covering is that formed of sheets or panes of glass cut about +one foot wide and of a length sufficient to cover the frame, by resting +one end on a groove in the front side of the case, and the other on the +top bar. A sufficient number of these sheets of glass should be provided +to cover the frame; they are excellent, as they give a certain means of +continual ventilation in some degree through the laps of the glass, even +when closed, and they may be closely or openly arranged to regulate the +amount of air admitted. Such pieces of glass can easily be removed to +inspect the seedlings.</p> + +<p>What is commonly called "coddling" causes great mortality among Orchids, +and in this particular the use of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[Pg 76]</a></span> seedling cases, if not very carefully +and sensibly worked is less likely to be satisfactory than sowing the +seeds on plants growing in the houses. Too much heat is very harmful. +Odontoglossums proved difficult to raise at first, and this was mainly +because the seedlings were kept too warm and close. If the cultures are +carried on in the Odontoglossum house, success is generally attained, +although the products are seldom so numerous as in Cattleya, Lælia, and +Cypripedium hybrids.</p> + +<p>Another plan adopted by some growers, and with tolerable success, is to +place squares of Osmunda fibre in pans, and after soaking them, sow the +seed on them. Others have discs of soft wood, such as Willow, cut across +the grain and placed in flower-pots or pans with the fibre of the +wood-grain uppermost; after soaking the discs, the seeds are sown on +them. When not raised in glass cases, round or square pieces of glass +are placed on the pots. Indeed, there is ample evidence that, provided +good seeds are sown and placed in a suitable temperature, Orchid seeds +germinate readily. The first sign of vitality is given by the good seeds +assuming a green appearance; in time they become little spherical green +bodies, which later produce a growing point; in due course the true root +appears, and the little plants are ready for pricking off or +transplanting into previously prepared store pots prepared with a good +drainage of small crocks or broken charcoal in the bottom, some Osmunda +fibre or other Orchid potting material, and an inch or so of very fine +compost formed of decayed leaves, Osmunda fibre, or good Orchid peat and +Sphagnum-moss in equal parts, the whole rubbed together through a fine +sieve. Some add a proportion of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[Pg 77]</a></span> sand to this compost. The whole should +be thoroughly well watered before the tiny seedlings are placed a +quarter of an inch or so apart in small holes in the surface of the +compost and sprayed to settle them in position. Up to this stage the +greatest mortality is observed. Wide crosses between species of +dissimilar nature, and which have up to the production of the growth +point or root appeared to be doing well, having shown that they did not +belong to the unfertile, suddenly collapse. Those which have taken a +long time to germinate have fallen victims to the minute fungi, and +other low forms of vegetable organism, which, commencing at one or two +spots, have gradually overgrown the surface of the pot and destroyed +them. The stronger are often destroyed by small insects, while drip, +however carefully guarded against, claims its share of the spoil. These +things are specially vexing to the amateur who is working in a small +way. To the expert cultivator who has a multitude of subjects in hand, +and whose methods and appliances mitigate the evils, the losses are not +so serious, for when Orchid seeds germinate freely they provide for +losses when sown on a large scale. Nothing is gained by removing the +little seedlings from the seed pot or basket too early. If thriving, +they should be left until they are large enough to be handled safely. +But where there is overcrowding, or "damping off," or decay from fungus, +it is best to remove some or all of the little seedlings in any stage of +growth to the store-pots.</p> + +<p>The store-pots should be returned to the seedling case, or placed on a +shelf near the glass in a warm, moist house, where the seedlings should +increase in size until they are<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[Pg 78]</a></span> ready to remove to fresh store-pots, +when they may be given more room; or if large enough, they may be placed +singly in thimble pots, or three or four seedlings may be placed round +the rims of thumb pots.</p> + +<p>Seedling Odontoglossums, when large enough to occupy thimble pots, are +found to thrive well when the pots are fixed in pans or shallow +seed-boxes in Sphagnum-moss, and placed on a shelf near the glass in the +Odontoglossum house, where, like other seedling Orchids, they should be +lightly sprayed several times each day in fine, warm weather, and as +often as may be deemed necessary in colder and dull weather.</p> + +<p>From the time the little plants are established in small pots until +their flowering stage, it is only a matter of ordinary culture, +although, as a rule, the small seedlings are safer with four or five +degrees more heat than is afforded the established plants. In the matter +of growth from the seedling stage to the flowering plant, there is but +little need of a resting season, even with species such as are deciduous +when mature, although a diminished supply of water may be given for a +short time to any which, having completed a growth, show no sign of +developing a fresh one. In most cases, a thorough drying, even if it +does not destroy a seedling, causes the flowering season to be delayed +by a year, or even longer.</p> + +<p>The careful shading of the seedling house is a very important matter. +Very young plants do best in a subdued light, and until they are quite +strong plants they should not be exposed to direct sunlight. A hot +summer often kills even the plants which have been brought +satisfactorily through a long winter. It is, therefore, advisable to +have<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[Pg 79]</a></span> on the seedling house, in addition to the lath roller blind, +running on supports carrying it well above the glass of the roof, either +a second lath roller blind running an inch or so above the glass and +beneath the upper one, or a permanent thin cotton shading, which may be +tacked on in spring and left until autumn; or, preferably, so fitted +that it can be rolled up when it is not required.</p> + + +<h3>SELECTION OF SUBJECTS FOR HYBRIDISING</h3> + +<p>The best varieties procurable should always be selected for hybridising, +it having been proved that crosses originally made with indifferent +varieties are much finer when raised again from more carefully selected +varieties.</p> + +<p>There seems to be no certain limit to the possibility of crossing; even +the most dissimilar genera may be crossed with some probability of +getting a successful result.</p> + + +<h3>POTTING MATERIAL FOR HYBRID ORCHIDS</h3> + +<p>From the time the little plants are well established in single pots, the +same potting material used for all of their kind may be employed, the +plants in the earlier stage having the potting material in a finer +condition than that provided for the larger plants as they approach the +flowering stage.</p> + +<p>As with other important operations, in Orchid potting and in the +material used the practice varies considerably, even in the best +collections, and this points to the fact that if the accommodation is +good, the houses properly heated, and other details of culture carefully +carried out, the exact<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[Pg 80]</a></span> composition of the potting material is of minor +importance. For Cattleya and Lælia hybrids and a large number of +epiphytes grown with them the compost is made by tearing up the +materials with the hand, or in some other way which will not break the +fibres very much. Osmunda fibre forms one-half to two-thirds of the +compost, the other third being made up of good Sphagnum-moss and Oak +leaves or other decayed, dryish leaves. We do not recommend leaf-soil or +leaf-mould, which was formerly strongly advocated, especially by +Continental growers, who used it with disastrous results. The most that +is done now is to mix a proportion of it with other potting material for +Lycastes, Calanthes, Phaius, and similar strong-growing terrestrial +Orchids.</p> + +<p>For mixing with the compost for hybrid Orchids, some use crushed crocks, +sand, charcoal, and a small proportion of each or either may be employed +safely, although there is no real need for such materials.</p> + +<p>Polypodium fibre may also be substituted for Osmunda fibre, or a +proportion of each may be used. Orchid peat fibre, which used to be the +chief potting material for Orchids, is still perhaps as good as any of +the other fibres, provided a really good quality can be obtained, a +matter which has become increasingly difficult.</p> + +<p>For Cypripediums, and especially Selenipediums, a proportion of good, +fibrous loam should be added to the compost recommended for epiphytal +Orchids, the proportion of loam being increased as the plants get +larger. Phaius, Calanthes, Zygopetalums, Zygocolax, and other plants of +a similar character should also have a proportion of loam-fibre in the +compost, and in these cases Orchid peat may<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[Pg 81]</a></span> be substituted for Osmunda +fibre, if it is of good quality. So far as it has been tested, Osmunda +fibre has an advantage over other fibres, in that it is more durable, +retaining its fibre intact longer than any other. Osmunda fibre and +Polypodium fibre in equal proportions, with an addition of leaves and +Sphagnum-moss, make an excellent material for all young, epiphytal +Orchids, the finer Polypodium fibre, if well worked in, giving substance +to the more open Osmunda fibre.</p> + +<p>For very small plants it is well to rub the mixture through a coarse +sieve, but after the early stages the use of the sieve should be +discontinued, and the compost carefully mixed with the hands.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2>CHAPTER XX</h2> + +<h3>ENUMERATION OF THE PRINCIPAL GENERA AND SPECIES IN CULTIVATION</h3> + + +<p><b>Acanthophippium.</b>—A small genus of terrestrial plants with oblong +pseudo-bulbs, and broad, plicate leaves. Scape erect, flowers +ventricose, yellow and reddish-purple. Warm house. Pot in equal parts of +turfy loam, peat, and leaves. Rest dry after the leaves fade and growth +is completed. The most familiar species are <i>A. bicolor</i>, <i>A. +javanicum</i>, and <i>A. striatum</i>.</p> + +<p><b>Acineta.</b>—The species of Acineta are epiphytal Orchids with stout +pseudo-bulbs and broad, coriaceous leaves. The flowers are produced in +pendulous racemes; they are<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[Pg 82]</a></span> fleshy, whitish, or yellow, and spotted +with purple or brown. They should be grown in baskets suspended in the +intermediate house. <i>A. Barkeri</i>, <i>A. densa</i>, and <i>A. Humboldtii</i> are +free-growing species.</p> + +<p><b>Acropera.</b> <i>See</i> <b>Gongora</b>.</p> + +<p><b>Ada.</b>—Cool-house genus from Colombia. Leafy evergreen plants with +racemes of orange-scarlet flowers. <i>Ada aurantiaca</i> is almost the sole +representative of the genus in gardens, and should be grown even in the +smallest collections.</p> + +<p><b>Aëranthus.</b> <i>See</i> <b>Angræcum</b>.</p> + +<p><b>Aërides.</b>—A large genus of evergreen Orchids with distichously arranged, +leathery, green leaves, the stem producing air-roots freely. Natives of +India, the Malay Archipelago, and other parts of that region, extending +to Japan.</p> + +<p>All the species of Aërides may be grown in pots, crocked from one-half +to two-thirds of the way up, the old stems of the plants, when long, +being placed in the pots before the crocks are filled in. The surface +should be of good living Sphagnum-moss, and the plants should be +liberally watered from the end of February or beginning of March until +autumn, when the supply of water should be restricted according to the +condition of growth of the plants. Those which have finished their +growth and are not showing new leaves in the centre should be given the +least supply, but it is not advisable to dry any off completely, unless +for some reason they have to be kept comparatively cool throughout the +winter, when they are safest if kept tolerably dry. The smaller species +may be grown in baskets with advantage when convenient—indeed,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[Pg 83]</a></span> the +true epiphytal character of the whole genus would suggest that method as +the better, but experience has proved that they may be equally well +grown in pots. The warm house, or warm end of the intermediate house, +suits all the species, but <i>A. japonicum</i> may be grown in the cool +house. Most of the species have white and rose-coloured flowers, and +they are very fragrant.</p> + +<p><i>A. odoratum</i>, one of the oldest of garden Orchids, is one of the best +and most free-growing species. <i>A. crispum</i>, <i>A. crassifolium</i>, <i>A. +Fieldingii</i>, <i>A. Houlletianum</i>, <i>A. falcatum</i>, <i>A. Lawrenciæ</i>, <i>A. +multiflorum</i> in its many forms, <i>A. quinquevulnera</i>, <i>A. suavissimum</i>, +and <i>A. virens</i> are the best for amateurs.</p> + +<p><i>A. cylindricum</i> and <i>A. Vandarum</i> have terete leaves like <i>Vanda +teres</i>, the former with white flowers, having a fleshy yellow and red +lip, and the latter, which is more membraneous in substance, being +white. Although often confused with each other in gardens, there is +little resemblance between these two species.</p> + +<p><b>Aganisia.</b>—This genus thrives best in Orchid pans in the intermediate +house, in the ordinary compost used for epiphytal Orchids, with an +addition of leaves. Place the plants in a moist situation.</p> + +<p><i>A. cærulea</i> is of trailing habit, and has blue and white flowers. <i>A. +ionoptera</i> is white and purple, and <i>A. lepida</i> white.</p> + +<p><b>Angræcum.</b>—A large genus chiefly from Africa and Madagascar, and +requiring similar treatment to Aërides. Botanists have divided the genus +into Aëranthus, Listrostachys, Mystacidium, &c., but for garden purposes +the one generic title suffices. The flowers of nearly all the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[Pg 84]</a></span> species +are white and fragrant, many of them being furnished with long, greenish +spurs.</p> + +<p>A representative selection could be made with <i>A. arcuatum</i>, <i>A. +Ellisii</i>, <i>A. Humblotii</i>, <i>A. infundibulare</i>, <i>A. Kotschyi</i>, <i>A. +modestum</i>, <i>A. Scottianum</i>, <i>A. superbum</i> (<i>eburneum</i>), and <i>A. +sesquipedale</i>, the last-named Madagascar species being the finest of the +genus.</p> + +<p><b>Anguloa.</b>—Colombian and Peruvian Orchids of strong growth, and similar +in habit to Lycaste. The flowers are usually produced singly on upright +stems. Pot in two-thirds peat and one-third Sphagnum-moss or Osmunda +fibre. When good loam fibre can be obtained, a small proportion may be +added. Intermediate house. Rest tolerably dry and cool after growth is +completed. <i>A. Clowesii</i>, yellow; <i>A. Ruckeri</i>, yellow and dark-red; <i>A. +uniflora</i> and its variety <i>eburnea</i>, white.</p> + +<p><b>Anœctochilus.</b>—A dwarf genus with fleshy, creeping stems and very +handsomely marked leaves. The plants should be grown in shallow Orchid +pots, using a mixture of one-third peat, and loam and leaves in equal +parts well mixed together, adding some finely broken crocks. The plants +should be placed in a moist corner, or suspended in a shady part of a +warm, moist house. They root along the stems, and may be increased by +cutting the leading portions with a root or two and leaving the bases to +break into new growth.</p> + +<p>With the Anœctochili, and often under the same generic title, are +usually associated <i>Dossinia marmorata</i> (<i>A. Lowii</i>), with broadly +ovate, olive-green, veined leaves; <i>Macodes Petola</i>, emerald-green +veined with gold; <i>Hæmaria discolor</i>, dark bronzy-red veined with copper +colour, often named<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[Pg 85]</a></span> <i>Goodyera Dawsoniana</i>, and plants of similar +character. The flowers of most of the species are white. They are +sometimes grown in plant cases, or under bell glasses, but if the proper +position in a warm, moist house can be found, they are better without +these coverings. Propagation renews the vigour of the plants and +prevents them degenerating, as they often do in cultivation if left +undisturbed for too long a period.</p> + +<p><b>Ansellia.</b>—A fine genus of some half-dozen species peculiar to Natal and +Tropical Africa, and growing from one to six feet in height, the leafy +pseudo-bulbs having at the top fine, branched spikes of yellow flowers, +more or less barred or spotted with purple. Pot as for epiphytal +Orchids, and grow in the intermediate house. Water the roots liberally +until the flowering is past, and then rest the plants in cool and dry +conditions.</p> + +<p><i>A. africana</i> is not only most commonly grown, but it is one of the +finest species. Others, some of which are mere varieties of <i>A. +africana</i>, are <i>A. confusa</i>, <i>A. gigantea</i>, <i>A. nilotica</i>, and <i>A. +congoensis</i>.</p> + +<p><b>Arachnanthe.</b>—This is a small genus of warm-house plants possessing +extraordinary habits, and including the Bornean <i>A. Lowii</i> (<i>Vanda +Lowii</i>), a very strong-growing species which bears drooping racemes of +greenish-white flowers barred with red. The two basal blooms are +dissimilar or dimorphic both in shape and colour, being tawny yellow +spotted with purple. The plants should be grown in pots or baskets as +Aërides. Other species are <i>A. Cathcartii</i> (Himalaya) and <i>A. +moschifera</i> (Malaya). <i>A. Cathcartii</i> will thrive in the intermediate +house.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[Pg 86]</a></span></p> + +<p><b>Barkeria.</b>—The Barkerias form a section of Epidendrums. They should be +grown in baskets or suspending pans in the cool intermediate house. They +require a dry and cool resting period.</p> + +<p><b>Bartholina.</b>—The Bartholinas are dwarf, terrestrial Orchids of South +Africa. They should be potted in loam, peat, and sand, and cultivated on +a greenhouse shelf. Rest dry and cool. <i>B. pectinata</i> is the only +species in gardens.</p> + +<p><b>Batemannia</b> and <b>Bollea</b>. <i>See</i> <b>Zygopetalum</b>.</p> + +<p><b>Bifrenaria.</b>—Pot these as recommended for epiphytal Orchids, and grow +them in the intermediate house. <i>B. Harrisoniæ</i> is the finest species. +Others worthy of cultivation are <i>B. aurantiaca</i>, <i>B. bicornaria</i>, <i>B. +inodora</i>, <i>B. tyrianthina</i>, and <i>B. vitellina</i>.</p> + +<p><b>Brassia.</b>—The Brassias are epiphytal Orchids of South America, and may +be grown in the intermediate house. The most familiar species are <i>B. +brachiata</i>, <i>B. caudata</i>, <i>B. Lawrenceana</i>, and <i>B. verrucosa</i>.</p> + +<p><b>Broughtonia.</b>—<i>B. sanguinea</i> is a pretty, crimson-flowered species from +Jamaica. <i>B. lilacina</i> is also a fine species, though rarely seen in +gardens. Broughtonias should be grown on bare rafts suspended in the +warm or intermediate house.</p> + +<p><b>Brassavola.</b>—A small genus with white, fragrant flowers. <i>B. Digbyana</i>, +a species with large, fringed-lipped flowers, has been much used by the +hybridist. Brassavolas may be grown with the Cattleyas.</p> + +<p><b>Bulbophyllum.</b>—A widely distributed genus which may be divided into two +sections—the deciduous, chiefly Burmese, requiring a dry resting +season; and the evergreen, which should not be strictly dried off. All +the species thrive in<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[Pg 87]</a></span> a warm, intermediate house, with cooler rest for +the deciduous and highland species. The genus is one of the most varied +and remarkable, and full collections of them are grown by some amateurs.</p> + +<p><b>Calanthe.</b>—These are terrestrial Orchids, which may be divided into two +sections—the evergreen of the <i>C. veratrifolia</i> class; and the +deciduous, comprising <i>C. vestita</i>, <i>C. Veitchii</i>, and numerous other +species and hybrids which are extensively grown for flowering in winter. +Pot them in a compost of one-half fibrous loam, one-fourth +Sphagnum-moss, and one-fourth leaves, with a sprinkling of sand. Rest +the deciduous section dry after flowering, and repot them when growth +commences in spring. Water liberally with occasional applications of +liquid manure, which should be withheld when the growth is completed.</p> + +<p><b>Catasetum.</b>—The Catasetums are curious, epiphytal Orchids, which should +be grown in baskets, or Orchid pans, suspended in the intermediate +house, and treated in a similar manner to the deciduous Dendrobiums. +They require a long, dry rest after the growths are completed. All the +species are worthy of cultivation, <i>C. Bungerothii</i>, <i>C. splendens</i>, and +<i>C. macrocarpa</i> being the more showy kinds.</p> + +<p><b>Cattleya.</b>—One of the largest, most varied, and florally beautiful +genera of Orchids. The plants should be potted as recommended for +epiphytal Orchids, and they should be grown in the intermediate house. +The <i>C. labiata</i> section, including <i>C. Gaskelliana</i>, <i>C. Mossiæ</i>, <i>C. +Mendelii</i>, <i>C. Dowiana</i> and its variety <i>aurea</i>, <i>C Warscewiczii</i>, <i>C. +Warneri</i>, and <i>C. Schröderæ</i> in succession, produce flowers for the +greater part of the year. <i>C. citrina</i> should be grown in the cool +house, suspended from the roof. Cattleyas and Lælias are<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[Pg 88]</a></span> impatient of a +close atmosphere, and therefore the proper ventilation of the house in +which they are grown is an important matter. <i>C. Trianæ</i>, var Hydra, is +illustrated in <a href="#pl4">Plate IV</a>.</p> + +<p><b>Chysis.</b>—A small genus of intermediate-house epiphytes, comprising <i>C. +bractescens</i>, white; <i>C. aurea</i> and <i>C. lævis</i>, yellow and red; <i>C. +Limminghei</i>, and several hybrids.</p> + +<p><b>Cirrhopetalum.</b>—A section of Bulbophyllum, of similar habit, and +requiring similar treatment. The curiously formed flowers frequently +have the upper segments fringed, and the lateral ones approached and +continued into slender tails.</p> + +<p><b>Cirrhæa.</b>—Allied to Gongora, and requiring similar treatment.</p> + +<p><b>Cochlioda.</b>—A compact-growing genus to be grown with the Odontoglossums. +<i>C. Noezliana</i>, scarlet, has been a fine species in the hands of the +hybridiser, and in the future may give us "Scarlet Odontoglossums." <i>C. +vulcanica</i> has deep rose-coloured flowers.</p> + +<p><b>Cœlia.</b>—There are several species of Cœlia, and they require to be +grown in the intermediate house.</p> + +<p><b>Cœlogyne.</b>—A very large genus of two distinct sections, that +represented by <i>C. cristata</i> being evergreen; the Pleione or Indian +crocus section deciduous, and requiring to be treated as terrestrial +Orchids, while the larger section are epiphytal. The epiphytal sections +are warm and intermediate house plants. The Pleiones should be grown in +a cool house, and rested quite dry after the leaves fade and until +growth again commences.</p> + +<p><a name="pl7" id="pl7"></a></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;"> +<img src="images/plate7.jpg" width="650" height="440" alt="PLATE VII + +ONCIDIUM MARSHALLIANUM" title="" /> +<span class="caption">PLATE VII<br /> + +ONCIDIUM MARSHALLIANUM</span> +</div> + +<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[Pg 91]</a></span></p> + +<p><b>Comparettia.</b>—These are small-growing epiphytes. Grow in small baskets +or hanging pans in the intermediate house. <i>C. falcata</i>, red, <i>C. +macroplectron</i>, pale rose; spotted; and <i>C. speciosa</i>, scarlet, are the +best species.</p> + +<p><b>Colax.</b>—A small genus of cool-house Orchids allied to Lycaste, and +requiring similar treatment. <i>C. jugosus</i> has been crossed with +Zygopetalums with good results.</p> + +<p><b>Coryanthes.</b>—These are similar in habit to Stanhopea. The plants should +be grown in baskets suspended in the intermediate house. The structure +of the large, fleshy flowers is most remarkable, and some interesting +particulars relating to their fertilisation by insect aid have been +recorded in the <i>Gardeners' Chronicle</i> (July 17, 1897, p. 31).</p> + +<p><b>Cycnoches.</b>—Of similar habit and requirements to Catasetum. The plants +are best grown in baskets and suspended. They should be rested cool and +dry with the deciduous Dendrobiums. <i>C. chlorochilon</i> (Swan Orchid), <i>C. +Egertonianum</i>, <i>C. Loddigesii</i>, <i>C. maculatum</i>, <i>C. peruvianum</i>, and <i>C. +pentadactylon</i> are fine species.</p> + +<p><b>Cymbidium.</b>—These are showy, large-growing Orchids for the intermediate +house or warm conservatory. Pot the plants in equal proportions of +fibrous loam, peat, and Sphagnum-moss. <i>C. giganteum</i>, <i>C. Lowianum</i>, +<i>C. grandiflorum</i>, and <i>C. Tracyanum</i> are the most commonly grown. <i>C. +eburneum</i>, <i>C. Mastersii</i>, <i>C. insigne</i>, and <i>C. erythrostylum</i> are +fine, white species, the latter two with rose markings on the lip. There +are numerous hybrids. <i>C. Lowio-eburneum</i>, a cross from <i>C. Lowianum</i>, +and <i>C. eburneum</i> is illustrated in <a href="#pl6">Plate VI</a>.</p> + +<p><b>Cynorchis.</b>—Terrestrial Orchids from Tropical Africa and Madagascar, +requiring to be grown in the warm house in moist and shady conditions. +The flowers are generally of rose colour.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[Pg 92]</a></span></p> + +<p><b>Cypripedium.</b>—This is one of the largest, most useful, and most prolific +genera, which, although commonly known in gardens as Cypripedium, may be +divided into several distinct classes. Most of those generally known in +gardens as Cypripediums have been termed Paphiopedilum, including <i>C. +barbatum</i>, and <i>C. Rothschildianum</i>, and the green-leafed class, more +commonly known in gardens as Selenipedium, are now termed +Phragmopedilum. The name Cypripedium, however, has so firm a hold on +cultivators that it is convenient to retain it in gardening handbooks.</p> + +<p>The Cypripediums have very numerous hybrids, and their numbers increase +annually. An enumeration is therefore impossible within the scope of +this work. All require to be treated as terrestrial Orchids, a +proportion of fibrous loam (see the chapter on potting terrestrial +Orchids) being added in proportion to the strength of the subject, the +largest proportion being given to the strongest growers. The +Selenipedium, or green-leafed section, should be potted in fibrous loam, +with a sprinkling of leaves and Sphagnum-moss. <i>C. insigne</i>, <i>C. +Spicerianum</i>, <i>C. Charlesworthii</i>, and others of the class, also hybrids +of them, may be grown in the cool house. <i>C. Rothschildianum</i>, <i>C. +Stonei</i>, and the whole of that section require the highest temperature, +but all may be grown successfully in an intermediate house. <i>C. insigne +Sanderæ</i> is illustrated in <a href="#pl_1">Plate I</a>.</p> + +<p><b>Cyrtopodium.</b>—A strong-growing genus needing to be grown in the +intermediate house. The plants should be potted as terrestrial Orchids. +<i>C. punctatum</i> is the showiest and most easily grown species.</p> + +<p><b>Dendrobium.</b>—One of the largest and most decorative genera of epiphytal +Orchids, comprising several hundred<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[Pg 93]</a></span> species and a large number of +hybrids. Primarily the genus may be divided into two classes—the +evergreen; and the deciduous, which lose their leaves after the +completion of the growths, and should have a protracted dry resting +season. The evergreen species have a shorter and less rigorous resting +season accorded them. The deciduous class is exemplified by <i>D. nobile</i>, +<i>D. Wardianum</i>, <i>D. crassinode</i>, and the plants associated with them, +and their hybrids; and the evergreen species by <i>D. densiflorum</i>, <i>D. +Farmeri</i>, and <i>D. chrysotoxum</i>. <i>D. Wardianum</i>, with 264 flowers, is +illustrated in <a href="#pl3">Plate III</a>.</p> + +<p>Next, the genus may be divided into two further classes—those requiring +a high temperature, such as <i>D. Phalænopsis</i>, <i>D. superbum</i>, <i>D. +atro-violaceum</i>, &c.; and those which may be grown comparatively cool, +which include <i>D. speciosum</i> (an excellent plant for a sunny +conservatory), <i>D. moniliforme</i> from Japan, <i>D. aggregatum</i>, <i>D. +Jenkinsii</i>, and many others. All the species require a high temperature, +moist atmosphere, and an abundance of water during the growing season, +but should be kept drier and cooler after the growth is completed to +prepare them for flowering. The species with pendulous growths should be +grown in baskets or suspended pans.</p> + +<p><b>Diacrium.</b>—A section of Epidendrum, with hollow pseudo-bulbs, and white, +wax-like flowers. <i>D. bicornutum</i> is a very fine species for the warm +house.</p> + +<p><b>Disa.</b>—A genus of terrestrial Orchids from Africa, best represented in +gardens by the fine Scarlet <i>Disa grandiflora</i>, which, with the others +of its section, <i>D. racemosa</i> and <i>D. tripetaloides</i>, have produced many +beautiful hybrids. These are cool-house plants, and should be potted in +a mixture<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[Pg 94]</a></span> of peat, Sphagnum-moss, sand, and loam fibre. They are +increased by offsets, and, when repotted soon after the flowering +season, the strong growths should be potted on for flowering, and the +smaller ones placed together in store pans. Free drainage should be +provided, and the plants liberally watered until they flower. After this +stage, cultivation in a cold frame for a few weeks before repotting and +returning the plants to the cool house will benefit them.</p> + +<p>The <i>D. graminifolia</i> or Blue Disa section do not increase by stolons. +They are heath plants, and should be potted in sandy peat, and kept +quite dry when they lose their leaves.</p> + +<p><b>Epidendrum.</b>—There are over 400 known species of this genus. <i>E. +vitellinum</i> is a fine orange-coloured, cool-house species. All may be +grown in the intermediate house. <i>E. O'Brienianum</i>, <i>E. radicans</i>, and +<i>E. Boundii</i> are fine plants for covering the ends of houses and back +walls.</p> + +<p><b>Eria.</b>—An interesting genus, comprising many curious, and some very +pretty species. They are epiphytes, and should be grown in the +intermediate house. The deciduous species need to be kept dry when at +rest.</p> + +<p><b>Eriopsis.</b>—These are epiphytal Orchids from South America. They should +be grown in the intermediate house, and they need moisture and shade. +<i>E. biloba</i> and <i>E. rutidobulbon</i> are the best-known species.</p> + +<p><b>Eulophia.</b>—A large genus in which both evergreen and terrestrial plants +are represented. Grow them in the intermediate house.</p> + +<p><b>Eulophiella.</b>—The genus includes two species from Madagascar, <i>E. +Elisabethæ</i>, white, and <i>E. Peetersiana</i>, rose. Grow them in a moist +position of the warm house, giving them a liberal supply of rain-water.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[Pg 95]</a></span></p> + +<p><b>Galeandra.</b>—These are deciduous epiphytes, needing similar cultivation +to Catasetum.</p> + +<p><b>Gomeza.</b>—Allied to Odontoglossum. The flowers are yellowish, and are +produced in racemes. Intermediate-house plants.</p> + +<p><b>Gongora.</b>—Intermediate-house Orchids, which should be grown in baskets +or suspending pans to allow of the full production of their long +flower-spikes.</p> + +<p><b>Grammatophyllum.</b>—A genus of strong-growing epiphytal Orchids for the +warm house. <i>G. speciosum</i> is a gigantic Malayan species.</p> + +<p><b>Grobya.</b>—Brazilian Orchids represented by <i>G. galeata</i> and <i>G. +Amherstiæ</i>. Intermediate house.</p> + +<p><b>Habenaria.</b>—Terrestrial Orchids. <i>H. militaris</i> and <i>H. rhodocheila</i> are +bright scarlet; <i>H. carnea</i>, flesh colour; <i>H. Susannæ</i>, <i>H. Bonatea</i>, +and <i>H. Ugandæ</i>, tall-growing, green and white. The two latter species +will grow in a cool house; the others need greater warmth. The North +American species are nearly hardy, and may be grown in a frame.</p> + +<p><b>Houlletia.</b>—Fragrant epiphytal Orchids from South America. Intermediate +house.</p> + +<p><b>Ionopsis.</b>—Pretty, slender, white and lilac species. Grow in small +baskets in the intermediate house.</p> + +<p><b>Lælia.</b>—One of the largest and showiest genera, great favourites in +gardens, and fine subjects in the hands of the hybridiser. The Mexican +species <i>L. anceps</i>, <i>L. autumnalis</i>, <i>L. albida</i>, &c., used to be +allotted a special dryish intermediate house, but they are now usually +grown in the intermediate or Cattleya house, and rested in a cooler +vinery or corridor. All the species require the same treatment as +Cattleya.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[Pg 96]</a></span></p> + +<p><b>Liparis.</b>—A genus of dwarf Orchids chiefly of botanical interest. +Intermediate house.</p> + +<p><b>Lissochilus.</b>—Showy terrestrial Orchids, chiefly from South and Tropical +Africa. They should be grown in warm or cool conditions according to +their habitats. <i>L. Krebsii</i> and <i>L. speciosus</i> are two handsome, +cool-house species; <i>L. giganteus</i>, <i>L. Horsfallii</i>, and others of this +class require a warm house. Being marshy plants, they need weak, liquid +manure when growing.</p> + +<p><b>Lueddemannia.</b>—A fine genus of strong, Acineta-like growth and pendulous +racemes of bronzy-orange coloured flowers. The growths are three to five +feet in length. The best species are <i>L. Lehmannii</i>, <i>L. Pescatorei</i>, +and <i>L. triloba</i>. Grow in baskets suspended in intermediate house.</p> + +<p><b>Luisia.</b>—Terete-leafed Orchids that may be grown in the warm house with +the Aërides.</p> + +<p><b>Lycaste.</b>—Most of the species thrive in the cool end of the intermediate +house. They have been grown successfully in a compost in which decayed +leaves formed the principal ingredient, the remainder being either +Sphagnum-moss, loam fibre, or peat, with a little sand or fine crocks +added. In some collections <i>L. Skinneri</i> and some of the other species +are grown in the cool house. All the species require to be kept as cool +as possible in summer.</p> + +<p><b>Masdevallia.</b>—Dwarf, tufted plants, with pretty and varied flowers, from +high ranges in South America. They should be grown in the cool or +Odontoglossum house. Pot them in equal proportions of Sphagnum-moss and +peat, with a little sand and fine crocks. The species of <i>M. chimæra</i> +section should be grown in suspending baskets or pans, and given a +rather warmer situation than those of<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[Pg 97]</a></span> the showier <i>M. Harryana</i> +(<i>coccinea</i>) and <i>M. Veitchiana</i> sections, being placed in the cool end +of the intermediate house in winter. <i>M. tridactylites</i>, <i>M. +O'Brieniana</i>, <i>M. ionocharis</i>, and many others form an interesting +section of dwarf Orchids, with singular, insect-like flowers. The +Masdevallias require to be kept moist all the year, and are benefited by +occasional division when being repotted in spring or late summer.</p> + +<p><b>Maxillaria.</b>—An extensive genus, widely distributed in South America, +and extending to the West Indies. All the species are intermediate-house +plants, requiring the ordinary potting material for epiphytes. The +flowers are varied in form and colour from the white <i>M. grandiflora</i> +and <i>M. venusta</i> to the large claret-blotched <i>M. Sanderiana</i>. Many of +the species have fragrant flowers.</p> + +<p><b>Megaclinium.</b>—A singular genus from Tropical Africa, closely allied to +Bulbophyllum, their chief characteristic being the singular flat rachis +of the inflorescence, which bears a single row of insect-like, brownish +flowers on each side. <i>M. Bufo</i>, the type species, is probably not now +in gardens. <i>M. falcatum</i> is the commonest, and <i>M. purpureorachis</i>, <i>M. +triste</i>, and several other species are sometimes seen. They should be +grown in the warm house in baskets or pans.</p> + +<p><b>Microstylis.</b>—The species of Microstylis should be grown as terrestrial +Orchids in Sphagnum-moss and peat, with fine crocks added. Rest the +deciduous species in dry and cooler conditions.</p> + +<p><b>Miltonia.</b>—The Miltonias are compact-growing South American epiphytes, +to be grown in pans elevated in a sheltered corner of the intermediate +house. Pot the plants in ordinary material for epiphytal Orchids, and +surface<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[Pg 98]</a></span> the compost with living Sphagnum-moss. <i>M. vexillaria</i>, <i>M. +Roezlii</i>, <i>M. Warscewiczii</i>, formerly included in Odontoglossum, form a +section requiring to be grown like Odontoglossums, but rather warmer. +This section has been found to thrive well with a good proportion of +leaves in the compost. <i>Miltonia vexillaria</i>, "Empress Victoria," is +illustrated in <a href="#pl2">Plate II</a>.</p> + +<p><b>Mormodes.</b>—Grow these with the Catasetum and Cycnoches, and treat them +similarly by resting them dry. The genus is a singular one, the +curiously formed, generally fragrant flowers being very attractive.</p> + +<p><b>Neobenthamia.</b>—<i>N. gracilis</i> is an elegant, white-flowered, slender +species from Tropical Africa, and it should be grown in +warm-intermediate temperature.</p> + +<p><b>Nephelaphyllum.</b>—Dwarf, terrestrial species for the warm house. Grow +with Anœctochilus.</p> + +<p><b>Notylia.</b>—Graceful epiphytes for baskets and suspending pans. +Intermediate house.</p> + +<p><b>Octomeria.</b>—A genus allied to Pleurothallis. The flowers are usually +white and rather small.</p> + +<p><b>Odontoglossum.</b>—The Odontoglossums are deservedly the most extensively +grown genus of cool-house Orchids, the larger proportion of those in +gardens being represented by <i>O. crispum</i> (illustrated in <a href="#pl8">Plate VIII</a>.), +one of the most beautiful of Orchids. The spotted forms often realise +very high prices. Cool, moist houses are provided for <i>O. crispum</i> and +its section of Odontoglossum; in some gardens several houses are +allotted to the species. Given a suitable house and careful treatment, +the Odontoglossums are among the easiest Orchids to grow, and the most +certain to flower. All the species generally classed with <i>O. crispum</i> +should be<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[Pg 99]</a></span> grown in well-drained pots. The compost in which they are +grown used to be formed exclusively of Orchid peat and Sphagnum-moss, +and, where these materials can be obtained of good quality they have +never been improved upon. There came a craze in some collections for +putting the Odontoglossums in leaf-soil, which ended in disaster, +although it indicated that a proportion of dry leaves (not leaf-soil) +may be used in the compost with advantage. Scarcity of good Orchid peat +brought about the introduction of Polypodium fibre and Osmunda fibre, +both excellent materials when prepared as recommended in the chapters on +Potting Epiphytal Orchids, and Hybrid Orchids. For the general repotting +of those requiring it September is the best month, but in early spring +the plants should be examined in order to repot those which need +immediate attention. The Odontoglossum house must be kept cool at all +seasons, and the necessity to have lower night temperatures must be +strictly recognised. Free ventilation should be provided, but at all +seasons when drying, east winds prevail, especially in winter and early +spring, the bottom ventilators should be only opened slightly, the top +ones being kept closed; the laps of the glass of the roof will admit +sufficient air. Moisture should be freely distributed about the house by +syringing beneath the staging and between the pots in summer, but in +winter the houses, if kept at the prescribed low temperature, will be +moist without much water being distributed. <i>Odontoglossum citrosmum</i>, +<i>O. Rossii</i>, <i>O. membranaceum</i>, and some other Mexican species should be +grown in baskets or pans; <i>O. coronarium</i> and its varieties in oblong +baskets; <i>O. Londesboroughianum</i> on rafts. Odontoglossums require +abundance of water, but are easily injured if allowed to get<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[Pg 100]</a></span> soddened. +Water should therefore be given systematically—a thorough watering, and +no more until the effect of it is passing and the still moist material +is sufficiently near the dry point. After flowering, a lessened supply +should also be given for a time, but the plants must not be dried off. +At this stage it is a good time to repot any requiring to be repotted. +In the cool houses, and indeed all the Orchid houses, observation should +be made as to the rapidity of evaporation of water from the floors and +staging. If the moisture evaporates too quickly and the floors and +stages become dry rapidly, it must be remembered that the conditions are +not favourable to sustaining the vitality of the plants in the house, +for, where rapid evaporation takes place, a similar process affects the +tissues of the plants. Means should be taken, either by lowering the +temperature or checking the ventilation, to sustain a lasting humidity +in the houses.</p> + +<p><b>Oncidium.</b>—This is a large genus, most of the members being suitable for +cultivation in the intermediate house. <i>O. macranthum</i> is a cool-house +plant, and <i>O. crispum</i>, <i>O. Forbesii</i>, <i>O. concolor</i>, <i>O. +Marshallianum</i> (illustrated in <a href="#pl7">Plate VII</a>.), <i>O. varicosum</i>, and others +also do well in the cool house in baskets or suspended pans. <i>O. +Papilio</i>, <i>O. Kramerianum</i>, <i>O. Lanceanum</i>, and <i>O. ampliatum</i> should +have a position in the warmest end of the intermediate house. Pot the +plants as epiphytal Orchids. Withhold water for a time after growth is +completed.</p> + +<p><b>Paphinia.</b>—Small-growing epiphytes. Grow in baskets or pans in a warm, +moist house.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[Pg 102]</a></span></p> + +<p><a name="pl8" id="pl8"></a></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 650px;"> +<img src="images/plate8.jpg" width="650" height="469" alt="PLATE VIII + +ODONTOGLOSSUM CRISPUM" title="" /> +<span class="caption">PLATE VIII<br /> + +ODONTOGLOSSUM CRISPUM</span> +</div><p> + +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[Pg 103]</a></span></p> + +<p><b>Phaius.</b>—Strong-growing, terrestrial Orchids for the intermediate house. +Pot them according to the directions in the chapter on the potting of +terrestrial Orchids. The species are evergreen, and require but a short +resting season. They require shade.</p> + +<p><b>Phalænopsis.</b>—These are warm-house species from the Philippines, Java, +Borneo, India, and other places. Pot the plants in Sphagnum-moss. They +succeed best when suspended, but if they are grown on the stage they +should be elevated on inverted pots. A moist atmosphere is essential. +<i>P. amabilis Rimestadiana</i> will grow in the intermediate house; so will +also most of the other species, if placed in a moist corner.</p> + +<p><b>Peristeria.</b>—The genus is best known in gardens by <i>P. elata</i> (Dove +Orchid). The cultivation is similar to that for Phaius.</p> + +<p><b>Physosiphon.</b>—A small genus allied to Stelis. <i>P. Loddigesii</i> has +racemes of orange-coloured flowers.</p> + +<p><b>Platyclinis.</b>—These are pretty, intermediate-house Orchids, with +pendulous racemes of white or yellow flowers, generally fragrant.</p> + +<p><b>Pleione.</b> <i>See</i> <b>Cœlogyne</b>.</p> + +<p><b>Pleurothallis.</b>—A large genus of elegant, dwarf-growing Orchids for the +intermediate house.</p> + +<p><b>Promenæa.</b> <i>See</i> <b>Zygopetalum</b>.</p> + +<p><b>Renanthera.</b>—These showy species are natives of Tropical Asia and +Malaya. They should be grown like Aërides and Vandas. <i>R. Imschootiana</i> +is a compact, free-growing species, with showy, crimson flowers.</p> + +<p><b>Restrepia.</b>—A cool-house genus usually grown with the Masdevallias, and +requiring similar treatment.</p> + +<p><b>Rodriguezia.</b>—This genus includes the species usually called +Burlingtonia in gardens. Suspend the plants in the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[Pg 104]</a></span> intermediate house. +<i>R. secunda</i> has rose-coloured flowers; most of the others are white, +and they are generally fragrant.</p> + +<p><b>Rhyncostylis.</b>—These are warm-house plants, which are known usually as +Saccolabiums in gardens. The commoner species is <i>R. retusa</i>, with fine +racemes of blush-white flowers, spotted with purple; and the blue <i>R. +cœlestis</i>. The cultivation is similar to Aërides.</p> + +<p><b>Saccolabium.</b>—The Saccolabiums should be grown in a warm house like +Aërides. <i>S. bigibbum</i> and others of its class are pretty, dwarf +species, with yellowish flowers spotted with purple and having a white +lip.</p> + +<p><b>Sarcanthus.</b>—Allied to Saccolabium, and having similar cultural +requirements.</p> + +<p><b>Sarcochilus.</b>—The species of Sarcochilus need to be grown in +Sphagnum-moss in the intermediate house.</p> + +<p><b>Satyrium.</b>—Terrestrial Orchids chiefly from South Africa, needing +greenhouse treatment. The plants must be kept dry during the resting +period.</p> + +<p><b>Schomburgkia.</b>—A strong-growing genus, requiring similar treatment to +Lælias and Cattleyas. The best position for them is a sunny situation in +the intermediate house.</p> + +<p><b>Scuticaria.</b>—The Scuticarias are handsome, bulbless species, with long, +terete, pendulous leaves, and showy, yellowish flowers, blotched with +purple. They should be grown on rafts, or in baskets suspended in the +intermediate house.</p> + +<p><b>Selenipedium.</b> <i>See</i> <b>Cypripedium</b>.</p> + +<p><b>Sobralia.</b>—The species of Sobralia are strong-growing, terrestrial +Orchids with reed-like stems, requiring abundance of water during the +period of growth. Intermediate house. <i>S. macrantha</i> and its white +variety are best known.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[Pg 105]</a></span></p> + +<p><b>Sophronitis.</b>—A dwarf genus, best known by <i>S. grandiflora</i>, which has +scarlet flowers, and has been used for crossing with Lælias and +Cattleyas. All the species are cool-house plants, needing cultivation in +pans or baskets suspended from the roof. The hybrids succeed best in the +intermediate house.</p> + +<p><b>Spathoglottis.</b>—Terrestrial Orchids of similar growth to Bletia, +requiring a pronounced resting period. Intermediate house. Rest dry.</p> + +<p><b>Stanhopea.</b>—A fine genus, with large, pendulous, wax-like flowers of +aromatic odour. They should be grown in baskets in the intermediate +house. Rest rather dry in a cool house or vinery.</p> + +<p><b>Stauropsis.</b>—Stauropsis should be grown with Aërides and Vandas. The +genus is best known in gardens by <i>S. lissochiloides</i> (<i>Vanda +Batemanii</i>) and <i>S. gigantea</i>.</p> + +<p><b>Stelis.</b>—The plants in this genus possess similar growth to the dwarf +Pleurothallis, and require the same treatment.</p> + +<p><b>Stenoglottis.</b>—<i>S. fimbriata</i> and <i>S. longifolia</i> are South African +terrestrial Orchids, needing similar conditions to Disa.</p> + +<p><b>Tetramicra</b> (<i>Leptotes</i>).—Dwarf species with white flowers, having rose +labellums. Intermediate house.</p> + +<p><b>Thunia.</b>—A section of Phaius with erect, terete stems and deciduous +leaves. Grow them in a warm and moist house, but keep them cool and dry +during the resting period.</p> + +<p><b>Trichocentrum.</b>—Dwarf, evergreen South American Orchids. Grow in pans +suspended in a shady part of the intermediate house.</p> + +<p><b>Trichopilia.</b>—An ornamental, epiphytal genus, including<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">[Pg 106]</a></span> Pilumna, the +white, fragrant <i>T. fragrans</i>, and its variety <i>nobilis</i>, representing +that section. <i>T. suavis</i> is one of the showiest species. All are worthy +of a place in collections. Intermediate house.</p> + +<p><b>Trichosma.</b>—<i>Trichosma suavis</i> is a pretty, cool-house species, with +white, fragrant flowers.</p> + +<p><b>Trigonidium.</b>—There are several curious species of Trigonidium, with the +sepals usually developed and arranged differently to Orchids generally. +Intermediate house.</p> + +<p><b>Vanda.</b>—The genus is one of the largest and most interesting, and, like +the other large genera, it may be divided into several sections. The +largest-growing and best-known species are <i>V. tricolor</i> and <i>V. +suavis</i>, which have white or yellowish flowers, spotted with purple, and +without any distinguishing botanical feature between them. <i>V. +cœrulea</i> is one of the finest blue Orchids; <i>V. Sanderiana</i> one of +the handsomest; <i>V. insignis</i>, <i>V. lamellata</i>, <i>V. Denisoniana</i>, <i>V. +limbata</i>, and <i>V. Bensonii</i> are all desirable kinds. <i>V. Kimballiana</i>, +<i>V. Amesiana</i>, and <i>V. Watsonii</i> form a distinct section, with fleshy +leaves and erect spikes of pretty, white flowers, marked with rose in +the two first, and requiring to be grown, where possible, in baskets +suspended in the intermediate house. <i>V. teres</i>, <i>V. Hookeriana</i>, and +their hybrid <i>V. Miss Joaquim</i>, have erect stems, bearing terete leaves, +and fine, rose-coloured flowers. <i>V. alpina</i>, <i>V. cristata</i>, and <i>V. +pumila</i> are pretty, dwarf species. All are generally grown together in +the warm or East Indian house, but it is an open question whether the +keeping of these plants and the Aërides and Saccolabiums continuously in +the same house is not the cause of the unsatisfactory<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">[Pg 107]</a></span> condition of many +of them in gardens. Each section should be watched, and, when growth is +completed, a change should be given to a cool, intermediate house for a +couple of months. Aërides, Vandas, and Saccolabiums suffer most from +being kept too hot and close in winter. After spring opens the amount of +heat and moisture should be gradually increased. Directly they have +flowered, the tall plants which have lost their bottom leaves should be +lowered in the pots or baskets by being cut off at the base. +Dwarf-growing species should be brought well up to the light. <i>V. +cœrulea</i> grows well under the most dissimilar conditions, and with +it, as with many other Orchids, there is more in finding a suitable +place than in growing the plant. All require to be potted or basketed in +Sphagnum-moss. Some growers add a sprinkling of leaves. The <i>V. teres</i> +section may be planted in Sphagnum-moss in a warm corner of the house, +or against the end of the house. If grown in pots, three or four should +be potted together and trained to a stout stick or teak rod.</p> + +<p><b>Zygopetalum.</b>—Under Zygopetalum, several distinct sub-genera are +included. The largest-growing and showiest species include <i>Z. Mackayi</i>, +<i>Z. crinitum</i>, and other related species. These should be potted in +peat, Sphagnum-moss, and loam fibre in equal proportions, with a +sprinkling of leaves, and fine broken crocks added. During the growing +season occasional waterings with weak, liquid manure should be given; +and, after flowering, a rest with restricted water supply. Those that +need repotting should be attended to before growth begins, but they will +remain satisfactory for years in the same pots if carefully treated.</p> + +<p>There are many hybrids, especially of <i>Z. maxillare</i>,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">[Pg 108]</a></span> which should be +treated like the species. <i>Z. rostratum</i> requires a warm, moist house. +The Promenæas include <i>P. stapelioides</i>, <i>P. Rollissoni</i>, and <i>P. +xanthina</i>. These should be grown in shallow pans, either for suspending +or placing on a shelf near the glass of the roof.</p> + +<p><b>Bollea</b>, <b>Huntleya</b>, <b>Pescatorea</b>, <b>Batemannia</b>, <b>and</b> <b>Warscewiczella</b>.—These are +sectional names for a leafy class, with rudimentary pseudo-bulbs. They +are frequently mismanaged. The plants should be grown in the potting +materials recommended for epiphytal Orchids, and surfaced with +Sphagnum-moss. Being evergreen, and with no superabundant vitality, they +should be kept moist all the year, but liberally watered when growing. A +moist corner of the intermediate house, or warm house, should be +selected for them, each plant being raised on an inverted pan or pot. +When grown in the warm house, a rest should be given in a cooler house +after growth is completed, but the plants must not be dried off. They +may be propagated by division. All require shade. Botanically they are +placed under Zygopetalum.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">[Pg 109]</a></span></p> +<h2>CHAPTER XXI</h2> + +<h3>ORCHID HYBRIDS</h3> + + +<p>It is impossible to enumerate the immense number of home-raised hybrids +in the scope of this book. It must therefore suffice to name some of the +principal genera which have been crossed, and a few of the best hybrids, +from the garden point of view.</p> + +<p>Too much cannot be said for the absorbing interest of raising hybrid +Orchids, which is referred to at length on p. 67.</p> + +<p><i>Brassavola Digbyana</i> has been one of the most satisfactory parents, +crossing readily with Cattleya and Lælia, and imparting to the hybrids +its large flowers and fringed lip. <i>B. glauca</i> has also been useful. +<i>Brasso-Cattleya Digbyano-Mossiæ</i>, "Westonbirt Variety," is illustrated +in <a href="#pl5">Plate V</a>.</p> + +<p>Calanthes have been wonderfully improved, so far as the deciduous, +winter-flowering kinds are concerned, by intercrossing, commencing with +<i>C. Veitchii</i> (<i>rosea × vestita</i>) and now including all shades from pure +white to blood-red.</p> + +<p>Cattleya, Lælia, Sophronitis, and Brassavola have produced by +intercrossing numerous showy garden plants, some of them, as for example +<i>C. Iris</i> (<i>C. bicolor × C. Dowiana</i>) and <i>Lælio-Cattleya +callistoglossa</i> (<i>C. Warscewiczii × L. purpurata</i>), exhibiting great +variation in the colour of their beautiful flowers.</p> + +<p>Cymbidium has been enriched by the hybridist, the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[Pg 110]</a></span> section Cyperorchis +being merged in true Cymbidium. <i>Cymbidium Lowio-eburneum</i> is +illustrated in <a href="#pl6">Plate VI</a>.</p> + +<p>Dendrobium hybrids are among the most numerous and useful as decorative +flowers.</p> + +<p>Epidendrum has produced some satisfactory results, including <i>E. +O'Brienianum</i> and <i>Epiphronitis Veitchii</i> (<i>Sophronitis grandiflora × +Epidendrum radicans</i>).</p> + +<p>Cypripedium has been so prolific that there are amateurs who cultivate +them either exclusively or give the greater part of their accommodation +to the genus and its hybrids, which may be numbered by the hundred.</p> + +<p>Species of Masdevallia, Odontoglossum, Lycaste, Phaius, and Zygopetalum +have all been intercrossed, and the number of possible combinations +admits of incalculable development, especially as the crossing is not +confined to the same genus. Plants of distinct genera have been crossed +with each other, and in many cases the results have been unexpectedly +good, as for example the pretty, scarlet <i>Cochlioda Noezliana</i>, which +has been crossed successfully with several genera. Such facts as these +seem to indicate that there are but few combinations amongst the genera +of Orchideæ cross-breeders may not attempt with a reasonable hope of +success.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /><p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">[Pg 111]</a></span></p> +<h2>INDEX</h2> + + +<p> +Acanthophippium, <a href='#Page_81'>81</a><br /> +<br /> +Acineta, <a href='#Page_81'>81</a><br /> +<br /> +Acropera, <a href='#Page_82'>82</a><br /> +<br /> +Adapting ordinary plant-house for Orchid culture, <a href='#Page_19'>19</a><br /> +<br /> +Aëranthus, <a href='#Page_83'>83</a><br /> +<br /> +Aërides, <a href='#Page_82'>82</a><br /> +<br /> +Aganisia, <a href='#Page_83'>83</a><br /> +<br /> +Angræcum, <a href='#Page_83'>83</a><br /> +<br /> +Anguloa, <a href='#Page_84'>84</a><br /> +<br /> +Anœctochilus, <a href='#Page_84'>84</a><br /> +<br /> +Ansellia, <a href='#Page_85'>85</a><br /> +<br /> +Apostasieæ, <a href='#Page_6'>6</a><br /> +<br /> +Arachnanthe, <a href='#Page_85'>85</a><br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Barkeria, <a href='#Page_86'>86</a><br /> +<br /> +Bartholina, <a href='#Page_86'>86</a><br /> +<br /> +Baskets and pots, culture in, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a><br /> +<br /> +Batemannia and Bollea, <a href='#Page_86'>86</a>, <a href='#Page_108'>108</a><br /> +<br /> +Bifrenaria, <a href='#Page_86'>86</a><br /> +<br /> +Bollea, <a href='#Page_108'>108</a><br /> +<br /> +Brassavola, <a href='#Page_86'>86</a><br /> +<br /> +Brassia, <a href='#Page_86'>86</a><br /> +<br /> +<i>Brasso-Cattleya</i> <i>Digbyano-Mossiæ</i> (<a href="#pl5">Plate V</a>.)<br /> +<br /> +Broughtonia, <a href='#Page_86'>86</a><br /> +<br /> +Bulbophyllum, <a href='#Page_86'>86</a><br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Calanthe, <a href='#Page_87'>87</a><br /> +<br /> +Calanthe Dominyi, the first Orchid hybrid, <a href='#Page_5'>5</a>, <a href='#Page_67'>67</a><br /> +<br /> +Calanthes, deciduous, <a href='#Page_38'>38</a><br /> +<br /> +Catasetum, <a href='#Page_87'>87</a><br /> +<br /> +Cattleya, <a href='#Page_87'>87</a><br /> +<br /> +<i>Cattleya Trianæ</i>, var. <i>Hydra</i> (<a href="#pl4">Plate IV</a>.)<br /> +<br /> +Cattleya fly, the, <a href='#Page_48'>48</a><br /> +<br /> +Chysis, <a href='#Page_88'>88</a><br /> +<br /> +Cirrhæa, <a href='#Page_88'>88</a><br /> +<br /> +Cirrhopetalum, <a href='#Page_88'>88</a><br /> +<br /> +Cochlioda, <a href='#Page_88'>88</a><br /> +<br /> +Cochlioda noezliana crosses, <a href='#Page_110'>110</a><br /> +<br /> +Cockroaches, how to entrap, <a href='#Page_50'>50</a><br /> +<br /> +Cœlia, <a href='#Page_88'>88</a><br /> +<br /> +Cœlogyne, <a href='#Page_88'>88</a><br /> +<br /> +Colax, <a href='#Page_91'>91</a><br /> +<br /> +Collecting wild Orchids, <a href='#Page_60'>60</a><br /> +<br /> +Comparettia, <a href='#Page_88'>88</a><br /> +<br /> +Compost for seedlings, <a href='#Page_76'>76</a>-80<br /> +<br /> +Conservatory, species for the, <a href='#Page_52'>52</a><br /> +<br /> +Coryanthes, <a href='#Page_91'>91</a><br /> +<br /> +Cut flowers, to preserve, <a href='#Page_56'>56</a><br /> +<br /> +Cycnoches, <a href='#Page_91'>91</a><br /> +<br /> +Cymbidium, <a href='#Page_91'>91</a><br /> +<br /> +<i>Cymbidium Lowio-eburneum</i> (<a href="#pl6">Plate VI</a>.)<br /> +<br /> +Cymbidiums for the conservatory, <a href='#Page_54'>54</a><br /> +<br /> +Cynorchis, <a href='#Page_91'>91</a><br /> +<br /> +Cypripedium, <a href='#Page_91'>91</a><br /> +<br /> +<i>Cypripedium insigne Sanderæ</i> (<i><a href="#pl_1">Frontispiece</a></i>)<br /> +<br /> +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">[Pg 112]</a></span>Cypripediums, structure of, <a href='#Page_6'>6</a><br /> +<br /> +Cypripediums for the conservatory, <a href='#Page_53'>53</a><br /> +<br /> +Cyrtopodium, <a href='#Page_92'>92</a><br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Dendrobium, <a href='#Page_92'>92</a><br /> +<br /> +<i>Dendrobium Wardianum</i> (<a href="#pl3">Plate III</a>.)<br /> +<br /> +Dendrobium from cuttings, <a href='#Page_35'>35</a><br /> +<br /> +Diacrium, <a href='#Page_93'>93</a><br /> +<br /> +Difficulties to overcome, <a href='#Page_8'>8</a><br /> +<br /> +Disa, <a href='#Page_93'>93</a><br /> +<br /> +Diseases and Insect Pests, <a href='#Page_47'>47</a><br /> +<br /> +Dossinia marmorata, <a href='#Page_84'>84</a><br /> +<br /> +Durability of Orchid flowers, <a href='#Page_56'>56</a><br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Enumeration of Principal Genera, <a href='#Page_81'>81</a><br /> +<br /> +Epidendrum, <a href='#Page_94'>94</a><br /> +<br /> +Epidendrum Boundii, <a href='#Page_109'>109</a><br /> +<br /> +Epidendrum O'Brienianum, <a href='#Page_109'>109</a><br /> +<br /> +Epiphronitis Veitchii, <a href='#Page_109'>109</a><br /> +<br /> +Eria, <a href='#Page_94'>94</a><br /> +<br /> +Eriopsis, <a href='#Page_94'>94</a><br /> +<br /> +Eulophia, <a href='#Page_94'>94</a><br /> +<br /> +Eulophiella, <a href='#Page_94'>94</a><br /> +<br /> +Evaporation from lower stage, <a href='#Page_15'>15</a><br /> +<br /> +Evaporation, test, <a href='#Page_100'>100</a><br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Fertilising Orchids, <a href='#Page_68'>68</a><br /> +<br /> +Floor of natural earth, <a href='#Page_9'>9</a>, <a href='#Page_15'>15</a><br /> +<br /> +Floor of wood trellis, <a href='#Page_9'>9</a><br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Galeandra, <a href='#Page_95'>95</a><br /> +<br /> +Genera and Species, <a href='#Page_81'>81</a><br /> +<br /> +Glazing, <a href='#Page_11'>11</a><br /> +<br /> +Gomeza, <a href='#Page_94'>94</a><br /> +<br /> +Gongora, <a href='#Page_95'>95</a><br /> +<br /> +Goodyera Dawsoniana, <a href='#Page_85'>85</a><br /> +<br /> +Grammatophyllum, <a href='#Page_95'>95</a><br /> +<br /> +Grobya, <a href='#Page_95'>95</a><br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Habenaria, <a href='#Page_95'>95</a><br /> +<br /> +Hæmaria discolor, <a href='#Page_84'>84</a><br /> +<br /> +Heating Orchid houses, <a href='#Page_16'>16</a><br /> +<br /> +Hot-water piping, <a href='#Page_16'>16</a><br /> +<br /> +Houlletia, <a href='#Page_95'>95</a><br /> +<br /> +Huntleya, <a href='#Page_108'>108</a><br /> +<br /> +Hybridising and raising seedlings, <a href='#Page_67'>67</a><br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Importing of Orchids, <a href='#Page_59'>59</a><br /> +<br /> +Insecticides, <a href='#Page_48'>48</a>, <a href='#Page_49'>49</a><br /> +<br /> +Introduction, <a href='#Page_1'>1</a><br /> +<br /> +Ionopsis, <a href='#Page_95'>95</a><br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Label, the best form of, <a href='#Page_31'>31</a><br /> +<br /> +Labelling the plants, <a href='#Page_30'>30</a><br /> +<br /> +Lælia, <a href='#Page_95'>95</a><br /> +<br /> +Leaves, removal of damaged, <a href='#Page_32'>32</a><br /> +<br /> +Leaves, use of, in potting compost, <a href='#Page_24'>24</a>, <a href='#Page_80'>80</a>, <a href='#Page_99'>99</a><br /> +<br /> +Leptotes, <a href='#Page_105'>105</a><br /> +<br /> +Liparis, <a href='#Page_96'>96</a><br /> +<br /> +Liquid manure, <a href='#Page_43'>43</a><br /> +<br /> +Lissochilus, <a href='#Page_96'>96</a><br /> +<br /> +Listrostachys, <a href='#Page_83'>83</a><br /> +<br /> +Lueddemannia, <a href='#Page_96'>96</a><br /> +<br /> +Luisia, <a href='#Page_96'>96</a><br /> +<br /> +Lycaste, <a href='#Page_96'>96</a><br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Macodes Petola, <a href='#Page_84'>84</a><br /> +<br /> +Manures for Orchids, <a href='#Page_39'>39</a><br /> +<br /> +Masdevallia, <a href='#Page_96'>96</a><br /> +<br /> +Maxillaria, <a href='#Page_97'>97</a><br /> +<br /> +Megaclinium, <a href='#Page_97'>97</a><br /> +<br /> +Metal injurious, <a href='#Page_29'>29</a><br /> +<br /> +Microstylis, <a href='#Page_97'>97</a><br /> +<br /> +Miltonia, <a href='#Page_97'>97</a><br /> +<br /> +<i>Miltonia vexillaria</i> (<a href="#pl2">Plate II</a>.)<br /> +<br /> +Mormodes, <a href='#Page_98'>98</a><br /> +<br /> +Mystacidium, <a href='#Page_83'>83</a><br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Neobenthamia, <a href='#Page_98'>98</a><br /> +<br /> +Nephelaphyllum, <a href='#Page_98'>98</a><br /> +<br /> +Night temperatures, <a href='#Page_17'>17</a>, <a href='#Page_18'>18</a><br /> +<br /> +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">[Pg 113]</a></span>Notylia, <a href='#Page_98'>98</a><br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Octomeria, <a href='#Page_98'>98</a><br /> +<br /> +Odontoglossum, <a href='#Page_98'>98</a><br /> +<br /> +<i>Odontoglossum crispum</i> (<a href="#pl8">Plate VIII.</a>)<br /> +<br /> +Odontoglossum, potting of, <a href='#Page_99'>99</a><br /> +<br /> +Odontoglossum seedlings, <a href='#Page_71'>71</a>-78<br /> +<br /> +Odours of Orchids, <a href='#Page_65'>65</a><br /> +<br /> +Oncidium, <a href='#Page_100'>100</a><br /> +<br /> +<i>Oncidium Marshallianum</i> (<a href="#pl7">Plate VII.</a>)<br /> +<br /> +Orchid-collecting, <a href='#Page_108'>108</a><br /> +<br /> +Orchid flowers, structure of, <a href='#Page_6'>6</a><br /> +<br /> +Orchid house, structure of, <a href='#Page_9'>9</a><br /> +<br /> +Orchid house, the single, <a href='#Page_19'>19</a><br /> +<br /> +Orchid hybrids, <a href='#Page_108'>108</a><br /> +<br /> +Orchid, the first hybrid, <a href='#Page_5'>5</a><br /> +<br /> +Orchids as cut flowers, <a href='#Page_55'>55</a><br /> +<br /> +Orchids for baskets, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a><br /> +<br /> +Orchids for the conservatory, <a href='#Page_52'>52</a><br /> +<br /> +Orchids for pans, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a><br /> +<br /> +Orchids for villa conservatory, <a href='#Page_53'>53</a><br /> +<br /> +Orchids, suspending of, <a href='#Page_27'>27</a><br /> +<br /> +Orchids, the earliest introductions of, <a href='#Page_3'>3</a>, <a href='#Page_4'>4</a>, <a href='#Page_5'>5</a><br /> +<br /> +Osmunda fibre, <a href='#Page_23'>23</a>, <a href='#Page_80'>80</a>, <a href='#Page_99'>99</a><br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Packing, systems of, <a href='#Page_61'>61</a><br /> +<br /> +Painting interior of houses, <a href='#Page_11'>11</a><br /> +<br /> +Paphinia, <a href='#Page_100'>100</a><br /> +<br /> +Paraffin, need for avoiding use of, <a href='#Page_49'>49</a><br /> +<br /> +Paths, methods of making, <a href='#Page_9'>9</a><br /> +<br /> +Periodical inspection of plants, <a href='#Page_50'>50</a><br /> +<br /> +Peristeria, <a href='#Page_103'>103</a><br /> +<br /> +Pescatorea, <a href='#Page_108'>108</a><br /> +<br /> +Phaius, <a href='#Page_100'>100</a><br /> +<br /> +Phalænopsis, <a href='#Page_103'>103</a><br /> +<br /> +Physosiphon, <a href='#Page_103'>103</a><br /> +<br /> +Plant-houses adapted for Orchids, <a href='#Page_12'>12</a>-19<br /> +<br /> +Platyclinis, <a href='#Page_103'>103</a><br /> +<br /> +Pleione, <a href='#Page_103'>103</a><br /> +<br /> +Pleurothallis, <a href='#Page_103'>103</a><br /> +<br /> +Potting and basketing, methods of, <a href='#Page_22'>22</a><br /> +<br /> +Potting material for hybrids, <a href='#Page_79'>79</a><br /> +<br /> +Potting, old-time system of, <a href='#Page_3'>3</a><br /> +<br /> +Promenæa, <a href='#Page_103'>103</a>, <a href='#Page_108'>108</a><br /> +<br /> +Propagation by division, <a href='#Page_35'>35</a><br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Rain-water, the value of, <a href='#Page_35'>35</a><br /> +<br /> +Raising seedling Orchids, <a href='#Page_67'>67</a><br /> +<br /> +Renanthera, <a href='#Page_103'>103</a><br /> +<br /> +Resting season, the, <a href='#Page_37'>37</a>, <a href='#Page_44'>44</a><br /> +<br /> +Restrepia, <a href='#Page_103'>103</a><br /> +<br /> +Rhyncostylis, <a href='#Page_104'>104</a><br /> +<br /> +Rise of Orchid culture, <a href='#Page_3'>3</a><br /> +<br /> +Rockeries in Orchid house, <a href='#Page_10'>10</a><br /> +<br /> +Rodriguezia, <a href='#Page_103'>103</a><br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Saccolabium, <a href='#Page_104'>104</a><br /> +<br /> +Sarcanthus, <a href='#Page_104'>104</a><br /> +<br /> +Sarcochilus, <a href='#Page_104'>104</a><br /> +<br /> +Satyrium, <a href='#Page_104'>104</a><br /> +<br /> +Scale insects, <a href='#Page_49'>49</a><br /> +<br /> +Schomburgkia, <a href='#Page_104'>104</a><br /> +<br /> +Scuticaria, <a href='#Page_104'>104</a><br /> +<br /> +Seed-raising, case for, <a href='#Page_72'>72</a>-75<br /> +<br /> +Seed-sowing, <a href='#Page_70'>70</a><br /> +<br /> +Seed-storing, <a href='#Page_69'>69</a><br /> +<br /> +Seedlings, damping off, <a href='#Page_77'>77</a><br /> +<br /> +Seedlings in subdued light, <a href='#Page_78'>78</a><br /> +<br /> +Seedlings, affording water to, <a href='#Page_72'>72</a><br /> +<br /> +Seeds, Orchid, <a href='#Page_69'>69</a><br /> +<br /> +Selection of subjects for cross-fertilisation, <a href='#Page_79'>79</a><br /> +<br /> +Selenipedium, <a href='#Page_92'>92</a>, <a href='#Page_104'>104</a><br /> +<br /> +Shading, <a href='#Page_21'>21</a><br /> +<br /> +Shading of houses containing seedlings, <a href='#Page_78'>78</a><br /> +<br /> +Slugs and woodlice, <a href='#Page_50'>50</a><br /> +<br /> +Sobralia, <a href='#Page_104'>104</a><br /> +<br /> +Sophronitis, <a href='#Page_104'>104</a><br /> +<br /> +Spathoglottis, <a href='#Page_105'>105</a><br /> +<br /> +Spraying the plants, <a href='#Page_37'>37</a>, <a href='#Page_72'>72</a><br /> +<br /> +<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">[Pg 114]</a></span>Staging for the plants, <a href='#Page_12'>12</a><br /> +<br /> +Staking or fixing plants, <a href='#Page_28'>28</a><br /> +<br /> +Stanhopea, <a href='#Page_105'>105</a><br /> +<br /> +Stauropsis, <a href='#Page_105'>105</a><br /> +<br /> +Stelis, <a href='#Page_105'>105</a><br /> +<br /> +Stenoglottis, <a href='#Page_105'>105</a><br /> +<br /> +Structure of the flowers, <a href='#Page_6'>6</a>, <a href='#Page_67'>67</a><br /> +<br /> +Structure of Orchid house, <a href='#Page_9'>9</a><br /> +<br /> +Syringing, the need for, <a href='#Page_37'>37</a><br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Tanks for storing water, <a href='#Page_9'>9</a><br /> +<br /> +Tar, injurious effects of, <a href='#Page_51'>51</a><br /> +<br /> +Tetramicra, <a href='#Page_105'>105</a><br /> +<br /> +Temperatures, <a href='#Page_17'>17</a>-20<br /> +<br /> +Terrestrial species, packing of, <a href='#Page_62'>62</a><br /> +<br /> +Thrips, destructiveness of, <a href='#Page_48'>48</a><br /> +<br /> +Thunia, <a href='#Page_105'>105</a><br /> +<br /> +Treatment of imported plants, <a href='#Page_63'>63</a><br /> +<br /> +Trichocentrum, <a href='#Page_105'>105</a><br /> +<br /> +Trichopilia, <a href='#Page_105'>105</a><br /> +<br /> +Trichosma, <a href='#Page_106'>106</a><br /> +<br /> +Trigonidium, <a href='#Page_106'>106</a><br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Useless leaves and pseudo-bulbs, removal of, <a href='#Page_31'>31</a><br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Vanda, <a href='#Page_106'>106</a><br /> +<br /> +Vanda Batemanii, <a href='#Page_105'>105</a><br /> +<br /> +Ventilation, <a href='#Page_9'>9</a><br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Warscewiczella, <a href='#Page_108'>108</a><br /> +<br /> +Watering epiphytal species, <a href='#Page_35'>35</a><br /> +<br /> +Watering terrestrial species, <a href='#Page_38'>38</a><br /> +<br /> +Wire injurious to the plants, <a href='#Page_29'>29</a><br /> +<br /> +<br /> +Zygopetalum, <a href='#Page_107'>107</a><br /> +<br /> +Zygopetalum, sections of, <a href='#Page_108'>108</a><br /> +</p> + +<h4>THE END</h4> + + +<p class="center">Printed by <span class="smcap">Ballantyne, Hanson & Co.</span><br /> +Edinburgh & London</p> + + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Orchids, by James O'Brien + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK ORCHIDS *** + +***** This file should be named 33593-h.htm or 33593-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/3/3/5/9/33593/ + +Produced by The Online Distributed Proofreading Team at +https://www.pgdp.net. 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