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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Narrative of a Second Expedition to the
+Shores of the Polar Sea, by John Franklin and John Richardson
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Narrative of a Second Expedition to the Shores of the Polar Sea
+
+Author: John Franklin
+        John Richardson
+
+Release Date: August 19, 2010 [EBook #33467]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NARRATIVE: THE POLAR SEA ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Carlo Traverso, Adam Styles and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This
+file was produced from images generously made available
+by the Bibliothèque nationale de France (BnF/Gallica) at
+http://gallica.bnf.fr)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+Transcriber's note:
+
+
+The original makes extensive use of sidenotes, and several sidenotes
+are often associated with a single paragraph, especially within the
+final chapter. Because of this, inline sidenotes have been used and
+are positioned as close to the relevant passage as was possible during
+proofing.
+
+
+
+
+                         NARRATIVE
+                  OF A SECOND EXPEDITION
+                     TO THE SHORES OF
+                      THE POLAR SEA,
+                       IN THE YEARS
+                   1825, 1826, AND 1827,
+
+                     BY JOHN FRANKLIN,
+   CAPT. R.N., F.R.S., &C. AND COMMANDER OF THE EXPEDITION.
+
+          INCLUDING AN ACCOUNT OF THE PROGRESS OF A
+                 DETACHMENT TO THE EASTWARD,
+
+       BY JOHN RICHARDSON, M.D., F.R.S., F.L.S., &c.
+         SURGEON AND NATURALIST TO THE EXPEDITION.
+
+     PUBLISHED BY AUTHORITY OF THE RIGHT HONOURABLE THE
+          SECRETARY OF STATE FOR COLONIAL AFFAIRS.
+
+                       Philadelphia:
+           CAREY, LEA, AND CAREY--CHESNUT STREET.
+
+  SOLD IN NEW YORK BY G. AND C. CARVILL--IN BOSTON BY MUNROE
+                       AND FRANCIS.
+
+                          1828.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+              W. PILKINGTON & CO. PRINTERS.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+                           TO
+
+                  THE RIGHT HONOURABLE
+                 THE EARL BATHURST, K.G.,
+          LORD PRESIDENT OF HIS MAJESTY'S COUNCIL,
+                       &c. &c. &c.
+
+                      THE FOLLOWING
+      NARRATIVE OF A SECOND JOURNEY OF DISCOVERY ALONG
+               THE NORTHERN COAST OF AMERICA,
+         UNDERTAKEN BY ORDER AND UNDER THE AUSPICES
+                     OF HIS LORDSHIP,
+               IS, BY PERMISSION, INSCRIBED
+             WITH GREAT RESPECT AND GRATITUDE,
+                            BY
+                        THE AUTHOR.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+
+                                                                  _Page_
+
+ Introductory Chapter                                                ix
+
+ Official Instructions                                              xix
+
+ CHAPTER I.
+
+    Join the Boats in the Methye River--Cross the Long Portage--Arrival
+    at Fort Chipewyan--Departure from thence with the whole party for
+    Mackenzie River--Arrangements at Fort Norman--Descent to the
+    Sea--Return to the Winter Quarters at Great Bear Lake             23
+
+ CHAPTER II.
+
+    Transactions at Fort Franklin, 1825-6                             61
+
+ CHAPTER III.
+
+    Voyage to the Sea--Part from the Eastern Detachment at Point
+    Separation--Reach the Mouth of the Mackenzie--Interview and Contest
+    with the Esquimaux--Detained by Ice--Meet friendly Esquimaux--Point
+    Sabine                                                            87
+
+ CHAPTER IV.
+
+    Babbage River--Meet Natives at Herschel Island--Their Trade with the
+    Russians, through the Western Esquimaux--Ascend Mount
+    Conybeare--Boundary of the British Dominions on this Coast--Delayed
+    at Icy Reef--Barter Island--Detention at Foggy Island--Return
+    Reef--Limit of outward Voyage                                    114
+
+ CHAPTER V.
+
+    Commence Return to the Mackenzie--Delayed again at Foggy Island--Ice
+    packed on the Reefs near Beaufort Bay, and on the Coast about
+    Clarence River--Pass the Channels near Herschel Island in a Gale and
+    Fog--A sudden Gale--Escape an Attack which the Mountain Indians
+    meditated--Enter the Mackenzie--Peel River--Arrival at Fort Franklin
+                                                                     141
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+ _Dr. Richardson's Narrative of the Proceedings of the Eastern Detachment
+ of the Expedition._
+
+ CHAPTER I.
+
+    Leave Point Separation, and descend the Eastern Channel of the
+    Mackenzie--Arrive at Sacred Island--Esquimaux Graves--Interview with
+    the Natives; their thievish disposition--Attempt to gain possession
+    of the Union--Heavy Gale--Find shelter in Refuge Cove--Low
+    Coast--Mirage--Stopped by Ice at Point Toker--Reach the Sea      162
+
+ CHAPTER II.
+
+    Detention by wind--Visited by the Esquimaux--Cross a large Stream of
+    Fresh Water--Winter Houses on Atkinson Island--Gale of Wind and
+    Fog--Run into Browell Cove--Double Cape Dalhousie--Liverpool Bay and
+    Esquimaux Lake--Icy Cliffs--Meet another party of Esquimaux--Cape
+    Bathurst                                                         180
+
+ CHAPTER III.
+
+    Double Cape Bathurst--Whales--Bituminous-shale Cliffs on Fire--Enter
+    Franklin Bay--Heavy Gale--Peninsula of Cape Parry--Perforated
+    Rock--Detention at Cape Lyon by Wind--Force of an Esquimaux
+    Arrow--Meet with heavy Ice--Pass Union and Dolphin Straits--Double
+    Cape Krusenstern, and enter George the Fourth's Coronation
+    Gulph--Reach the Coppermine River--Remarks--Meteorological Table
+                                                                     193
+ CHAPTER IV.
+
+    Ascend the Coppermine River--Abandon the Boats and
+    Stores--Commence the Land Journey--Cross the Copper Mountains and
+    Height of Land--Meet Indians who bring Provisions--Arrive at Great
+    Bear Lake--Detained by want of a Boat--Send out Hunters--Arrival of
+    Beaulieu--Collect the Party, and proceed to Fort
+    Franklin--Conclusion                                             222
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+ _Captain Franklin's Narrative resumed._
+
+ CHAPTER VI.
+
+    Brief Notices of the Second Winter at Bear Lake--Traditions of the
+    Dog-Ribs--Leave Fort Franklin--Winter Journey to Fort
+    Chipewyan--Remarks on the progress of improvement in the Fur
+    Countries--Set out in Canoes on the Voyage Homeward--Join Dr.
+    Richardson at Cumberland House--Mr. Drummond's Narrative--Arrival in
+    Canada, at New York, and London                                  238
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+ APPENDIX.
+
+    Topographical and Geological Notices, by Dr. Richardson, R.N.    263
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+An account of the objects of Natural History, collected on our journey
+being too voluminous to be inserted in the Appendix, has been reserved
+for a separate work which will be published as soon as possible, by Dr.
+Richardson and Professor Hooker, under the sanction, and by the
+assistance, of His Majesty's Government.
+
+
+
+
+INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER.
+
+
+His Majesty's Government having, towards the close of the year 1823,
+determined upon another attempt to effect a northern passage by sea
+between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, and Captain Parry, the highly
+distinguished Commander of the two preceding Expeditions, having been
+again entrusted with its execution, success, as far as ability,
+enterprise, and experience could ensure it, appeared likely to be the
+result. Yet, as the object was one for which Great Britain had thought
+proper to contend for upwards of three centuries, it seemed to me that
+it might be desirable to pursue it by more ways than one; I therefore
+ventured to lay before His Majesty's Government a plan for an Expedition
+overland to the mouth of the Mackenzie River, and thence, by sea, to the
+northwestern extremity of America, with the combined object, also, of
+surveying the coast between the Mackenzie and Coppermine Rivers.
+
+I was well aware of the sympathy excited in the British public by the
+sufferings of those engaged in the former overland Expedition to the
+mouth of the Coppermine River, and of the humane repugnance of His
+Majesty's Government to expose others to a like fate; but I was enabled
+to show satisfactorily that, in the proposed course, similar dangers
+were not to be apprehended, while the objects to be attained were
+important at once to the naval character, scientific reputation, and
+commercial interests of Great Britain; and I received directions from
+the Right Honourable Earl Bathurst to make the necessary preparations
+for the equipment of the Expedition, to the command of which I had the
+honour to be nominated.
+
+My much valued friend, Dr. Richardson, offered his services as
+Naturalist and Surgeon, and also volunteered to undertake the survey of
+the coast between the Mackenzie and Coppermine Rivers, while I should be
+occupied in endeavouring to reach Icy Cape.
+
+Lieutenant Bushnan, who had served under Captains Ross and Parry on
+their voyages of discovery, was also appointed to accompany me; but,
+long before the party was to leave England, I had to lament the
+premature death of that excellent young officer, who was eminently
+qualified for the situation, by his skill in astronomical observations,
+surveying, and drawing. Many naval officers, distinguished for their
+talent and ability, were desirous of filling the vacancy; but my friend
+and former companion, Lieutenant Back, having returned from the West
+Indies, the appointment was offered to him, and accepted with his wonted
+zeal.
+
+Mr. E.N. Kendall, Admiralty Mate, and recently assistant Surveyor with
+Captain Lyon, was appointed to accompany Dr. Richardson in his voyage to
+the eastward, and to do the duty of an Assistant-Surveyor to the
+Expedition at large, whilst it continued united. Lastly, Mr. Thomas
+Drummond, of Forfar, was appointed Assistant Naturalist, on the
+recommendation of Professor Hooker, and other eminent scientific men.
+
+A residence in the northern parts of America, where the party must
+necessarily depend for subsistence on the daily supply of fish, or on
+the still more precarious success of Indian hunters, involves many
+duties which require the superintendence of a person of long experience
+in the management of the fisheries, and in the arrangement of the
+Canadian voyagers and Indians: we had many opportunities, during the
+former voyage, of being acquainted with the qualifications of Mr. Peter
+Warren Dease, Chief Trader of the Hudson's Bay Company, for these
+services, and I therefore procured the sanction of His Majesty's
+Government for his being employed on the Expedition.
+
+As soon as I had authority from Earl Bathurst, I entered into a
+correspondence with the Governor and Directors of the Hudson's Bay
+Company; and these gentlemen, taking the most lively interest in the
+objects of the Expedition, promised their utmost support to it, and
+forthwith sent injunctions to their officers in the Fur Countries to
+provide the necessary depôts of provision at the places which I pointed
+out, and to give every other aid in their power. I also wrote to the
+different Chief Factors and Chief Traders of the Company, who resided on
+the route of the Expedition, explaining its objects, and requesting
+their co-operation.
+
+_Pemmican_, the principal article of provision used in travelling, being
+made during the winter and spring, the orders for providing the extra
+quantity required for the Expedition, though sent out from England by
+the earliest conveyance, so as to reach the provision posts in the
+summer of 1824, could not be put into effect sooner than the spring of
+1825; hence, it was not proper that the main body of the Expedition
+should reach the Fur Countries before the latter period. Some stores
+were forwarded from England, by way of New York, in March 1824, under
+charge of Mr. Robert M'Vicar, Chief Trader, for the purpose of relieving
+the Expedition as much as possible from the incumbrance of heavy
+baggage, and thus enabling it, by marching quickly, to reach its
+intended winter-quarters at Great Bear Lake, as well as to provide for
+its more comfortable reception at that place. These stores, with the
+addition of other articles obtained in Canada, sufficed to load three
+north canoes, manned by eighteen voyagers; and they were delivered by
+Mr. M'Vicar, before the winter set in, to Mr. Dease, at the Athabasca
+Lake. Mr. Dease was instructed to support his party by fishing at Great
+Slave Lake, during the winter of 1824-25; and, early in the spring of
+1825, to proceed to Great Bear Lake, and commence the necessary
+buildings for the reception of the Expedition. I may here cursorily
+remark that, in selecting Great Bear Lake as our winter residence, I was
+influenced by the information I had obtained of its being the place
+nearest to the mouth of the Mackenzie, known to the traders, where a
+sufficient supply of fish could be procured for the support of so large
+a party.
+
+Three light boats, which I shall soon more particularly describe, were
+also sent out to York Factory, in June 1824, in the annual Hudson's Bay
+ship, together with a further supply of stores, two carpenters, and a
+party of men, with a view of their reaching Cumberland House, on the
+Saskatchawan River, the same season; and starting from thence as soon as
+the navigation opened in the following spring, that they might be as far
+as possible advanced on their way to Bear Lake before they were
+overtaken by the Officers of the Expedition. The latter proceeding by
+way of New York and Canada, would have the advantage of an earlier
+spring in travelling through the more southern districts; and, further
+to expedite their progress, I directed two _large_ canoes (canôts de
+maître,) with the necessary equipments and stores, to be deposited at
+Penetanguishene, the naval depôt of Lake Huron, in the autumn of 1824,
+to await our arrival in the following spring; having been informed
+that, in ordinary seasons, we should, by commencing our voyage at that
+place, arrive in the north-west country ten days earlier than by the
+usual way of proceeding up the Utawas River from Montreal.
+
+The return of the Hudson's Bay ship towards the close of the year 1824,
+brought me satisfactory intelligence of the progress of the
+above-mentioned parties, together with the most pleasing assurances from
+the Gentlemen of the Company to whom I had written, of their zeal in our
+cause; and here I must express the deep sense I have of the kindness of
+the late Honourable William M'Gillivray, of Montreal, whose experience
+enabled him to give me many valuable suggestions relating to the
+clothing and subsistence of the party, and to the supplies proper for
+the Indians.
+
+In connexion with the above sketch of the preparatory steps taken in the
+course of the year 1824, it may be proper to give, in this place, a
+short account of the general equipments of the Expedition.
+
+And first, with regard to the vessels intended for the navigation of the
+Arctic Sea: birch-bark canoes, uniting lightness and facility of repair
+with speed, are certainly well adapted for navigating the rivers of
+America, but they are much too slight to bear the concussion of waves in
+a rough sea, and they are still less fitted, from the tenderness of the
+bark, for coming in contact with ice. I therefore requested of the Lords
+Commissioners of the Admiralty that _three_ boats might be constructed
+under my superintendence; and they were immediately ordered and promptly
+finished under the directions of the Commissioners of the Navy. To fit
+them for the ascent and descent of the many rapids between York Factory
+and Mackenzie River; and to render their transport over the numerous
+portages more easy, it was necessary to have them as small, and of as
+light a construction as possible; and, in fact, as much like a north
+canoe as was consistent with the stability and capacity required for
+their voyage at sea. They were built of mahogany, with timbers of ash,
+both ends exactly alike, and fitted to be steered either with a
+sweep-oar or a rudder. The largest, twenty-six feet long, and five feet
+four inches broad, was adapted for six rowers, a steersman, and an
+officer; it could be borne on the shoulders of six men, and was found,
+on trial, to be capable of carrying three tons weight in addition to the
+crew. The two others were each twenty-four feet long, four feet ten
+inches broad, and were capable of receiving a crew of five men, a
+steersman, and an officer, with an additional weight of two and a half
+tons. The greatest care was paid to their construction by Mr. Cow,
+boat-builder of Woolwich Yard; and, as I could not often be present, my
+friend Captain Buchan, R.N., kindly undertook to report their progress;
+and I am further indebted to him for many valuable suggestions which
+were acted upon.
+
+When the boats were finished, they were tried at Woolwich, in the
+presence of many naval and military officers, as to their qualities of
+sailing, rowing, and paddling, and found to answer fully the
+expectations that had been formed of them. At the same time we tried
+another little vessel belonging to the Expedition, named the
+Walnut-Shell, the invention and construction of which I owe to my friend
+Lieutenant-Colonel Pasley, of the Royal Engineers. Its length was nine
+feet, its breadth four feet four inches, and it was framed of
+well-seasoned ash, fastened with thongs, covered with Mr. Mackintosh's
+prepared canvas, and shaped like one valve of a walnut-shell, whence its
+appellation. It weighed only eighty-five pounds, could, when taken to
+pieces, be made up in five or six parcels, and was capable of being put
+together in less than twenty minutes. So secure was this little vessel,
+that several ladies, who had honoured the trial of the boats with their
+presence, fearlessly embarked in it, and were paddled across the Thames
+in a fresh breeze. It was intended to provide against a similar
+detention in crossing rivers to that which proved so fatal to our party
+on the former journey; and it was also thought, that this little bark
+would be found useful in procuring water-fowl on the small lakes, to
+which the boats could not be conveyed.
+
+In the choice of astronomical instruments I was necessarily guided by
+their portability. Our stock consisted of two small sextants, two
+artificial horizons, two altitude instruments, a repeating circle for
+lunar observations, and a small transit telescope for ascertaining the
+rates of the chronometers. We had a dipping needle mounted on Meyer's
+plan, a plain needle very delicately fitted for observing the diurnal
+variation; two of Kater's azimuth compasses, and a pocket compass for
+each officer. The atmospherical instruments were two electrometers, two
+of Daniel's hygrometers, Leslie's photometer and hygrometer, besides a
+good supply of mercurial and spirit thermometers of different sizes. The
+magnetic instruments were examined in concert with my friend Captain
+Sabine, previous to my departure from London; and the observations that
+were obtained for dip and intensity, served as points of comparison for
+our future results.
+
+The stores consisted of bedding and clothing, including two suits of
+waterproof dresses for each person, prepared by Mr. Mackintosh, of
+Glasgow; our guns had the same bore with the fowling-pieces, supplied by
+the Hudson's Bay Company to the Indian hunters, that is, twenty-eight
+balls to the pound; their locks were tempered to withstand the cold of
+the winter; and a broad Indian dagger, which could also be used as a
+knife, was fitted to them, like a bayonet. Ammunition of the best
+quality was provided by the Ordnance, the powder being secured in small
+field or boat magazines. A quantity of wheaten-flour, arrow-root,
+macaroni, portable-soup, chocolate, essence of coffee, sugar, and tea,
+calculated to last two years, was also supplied, made up into packages
+of eighty-five pounds, and covered with three layers of prepared
+waterproof canvas, of which material coverings for the cargo of each
+boat were also made.
+
+There was likewise an ample stock of tobacco, a small quantity of wine
+and spirits, marquees and tents for the men and officers, some books,
+writing and drawing paper, a considerable quantity of cartridge-paper,
+to be used in preserving specimens of plants; nets, twine, fishing-lines
+and hooks, together with many articles to be used at winter-quarters,
+for the service of the post, and for the supply of our Indian hunters,
+such as cloth, blankets, shirts, coloured belts, chiefs' dresses, combs,
+looking-glasses, beads, tapes, gartering, knives, guns and daggers,
+hatchets, awls, gun-worms, flints, fire-steels, files, whip and
+hand-saws, ice-chisels and trenching-irons, the latter to break open the
+beaver lodges.
+
+As the mode of travelling through the Hudson's Bay territories, with all
+its difficulties and hazards, is now well known to the public, I think
+it better to give in this Introductory Chapter a slight outline of our
+route through the United States, Upper Canada, and Southern part of the
+Fur Countries, and to commence the detailed Narrative of the proceedings
+of the Expedition with its arrival in Methye River, where the officers
+joined the boats that had been sent out from England in the preceding
+year.
+
+On the 16th of February, 1825, I embarked with Lieutenant Back, Dr.
+Richardson, Mr. Kendall, Mr. Drummond, and four marines, at Liverpool,
+on board the American packet-ship, Columbia, Captain Lee; and, on
+quitting the pier, we were honoured by a salute of three animating
+cheers, from a crowd of the principal inhabitants, who had assembled to
+witness our departure. The passage across the Atlantic was favourable
+and pleasant, and our reception at New York kind in the extreme. We
+landed at that city on the 15th of March, and our baggage and stores
+were instantly passed through the Custom-House without inspection. Cards
+of admission to the Public Scientific Institutions were forwarded to us
+the same evening, and during our stay every other mark of attention was
+shown by the civil and naval authorities, as well as by private
+individuals, indicating the lively interest which they took in our
+enterprise.
+
+James Buchanan, Esq., the British Consul, in addition to many other
+attentions, kindly undertook to accommodate a journey he had to make to
+Upper Canada, so as to accompany us through the State of New York. After
+a stay of eight days in the city, for the purpose of obtaining the rates
+of the chronometers, and for making some other observations with Meyer's
+dipping needle, we embarked under the Consul's guidance, in the
+steam-boat Olive Branch, and ascended the Hudson River, to Albany, where
+we experienced similar civilities to those we had received at New York.
+Every body seemed to desire our success, and a fervent prayer for our
+preservation and welfare was offered up by the Reverend Dr. Christie,
+the minister of the church that we attended. The Honourable De Witt
+Clinton, the Governor of the State, assured me, that had we not been
+accompanied by a gentleman so conversant in the different routes and
+modes of travelling as Mr. Buchanan, he would have sent his son with us,
+or would himself have conducted us to the confines of the State.
+
+From Albany, we travelled through Utica, Rochester, and Geneva, to
+Leweston, in coaches, with more or less rapidity, according to the
+condition of the roads; and, crossing the river Niagara, entered Canada,
+and visited the Falls so justly celebrated as the first in the world for
+grandeur. We next crossed Lake Ontario in a sailing boat, and came to
+York the capital of Upper Canada, where we were kindly received by the
+Lieutenant-Governor Sir Peregrine Maitland, and by Colonel Cockburn and
+the Commissioners then employed on an inquiry respecting the value of
+the Crown Lands. From York we passed on to Lake Simcoe, in carts and
+other conveyances, halting for a night at the hospitable house of Mr.
+Robinson of Newmarket. We crossed Lake Simcoe in canoes and boats, and
+landed near the upper part of Kempenfeldt Bay, but not without being
+obliged to break our way through the ice for a short distance. A journey
+of nine miles, performed on foot, brought us to the River Nattawassaga,
+which we descended in a boat; and passing through a part of Lake Huron,
+arrived at Penetanguishene. At this place, we were hospitably
+entertained by Lieutenant, now Captain Douglass, during eight days that
+we waited for the arrival of our Canadian voyagers from Montreal.
+
+We left Penetanguishene on St. George's day (23d April) in the two large
+canoes, which had been deposited at that place in the preceding autumn,
+our party, by the accession of the voyagers, now amounted to
+thirty-three; and after a few days detention by ice, and bad weather, we
+reached Sault de St. Marie on the 1st of May, being ten days or a
+fortnight earlier than the oldest resident remembered a canoe from
+Canada to have arrived. From the Sault de St. Marie, we coasted the
+northern shore of Lake Superior to Fort William, formerly the great
+depôt of the N.W. Company, where we arrived on the 10th of May. We now
+exchanged our two _canôts de maître_ for four small north canoes, in one
+of which, more lightly laden, Dr. Richardson and I embarked, with the
+view of proceeding as rapidly as possible to arrange supplies of
+provision at the different posts, while Lieutenant Back was left to
+bring up the three remaining and more deeply laden canoes.
+
+We proceeded by the route delineated in the maps through Rainy Lake, the
+Lake of the Woods, Lake Winipeg, and the Saskatchawan River to
+Cumberland House, where we arrived on the 15th of June, and learned that
+our boats had left that place on the 2d of the same month. We found also
+with deep regret, that Thomas Mathews, the principal carpenter who had
+accompanied the boats from England, had had the misfortune to break his
+leg the evening before their departure. But, fortunately, an officer of
+the Hudson's Bay Company then present, had sufficient skill to set it,
+and Dr. Richardson now pronounced that in two months he would be able to
+come on in one of the Company's canoes, and join us at Bear Lake, which
+he was very desirous of doing. I therefore made arrangements to this
+effect, and also concerning supplies for Mr. Drummond the Assistant
+Naturalist, who was to be employed, during our stay in the north, in
+making collections in the vicinity of the Rocky Mountains.
+
+Having remained one night at Cumberland House, we resumed our voyage,
+and passing through Pine Island Lake, Beaver Lake, crossing the Frog
+Portage, and ascending the English River, with its dilatations, named
+Bear Island, Sandfly, Serpent, Primeau, and Isle à la Crosse Lakes, we
+came to the post situated on, and named from the latter sheet of water,
+at four P.M. on the 25th June. In the course of this voyage, we met the
+Gentlemen of the Hudson's Bay Company proceeding from the interior with
+various brigades of canoes, carrying the returns of trade for the year
+to York Factory, and I had not only the satisfaction of hearing frequent
+news of the progress of our boats, but that the deposits of provisions I
+had requested, and the other arrangements I had made, were all
+punctually carried into effect. Mr. Spencer, the gentleman in charge at
+Isle à la Crosse, informed us, that the boats had gone off a few hours
+previous to our arrival, with the addition of a bateau laden with
+pemmican, under the charge of Mr. Fraser, a clerk of the Hudson's Bay
+Company.
+
+I waited at this establishment one night to obtain astronomical
+observations, and to bespeak an additional quantity of provisions, &c.,
+which being satisfactorily done, we resumed our voyage on the 27th, and,
+passing through Deep River, Clear and Buffalo Lakes, overtook the boats
+in Methye River, at sunrise on the 29th of June.
+
+Having brought this preliminary sketch up to the date at which the
+ensuing Narrative of the proceedings of the Expedition commences, I turn
+to the pleasing duty of rendering my best thanks to the many gentlemen
+who have assisted me in forwarding its progress. To the Right Honourable
+Earl Bathurst, I am greatly indebted for the readiness with which he
+attended to every suggestion I had to make regarding the equipment of
+the Expedition, and to the Right Honourable Wilmot Horton, the Under
+Colonial Secretary, for his kindness and promptitude in facilitating all
+my views. Nor can I feel less grateful to Lord Viscount Melville, and to
+the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty for their patronage and
+support, as well as to Sir Byam Martin, the Comptroller, and to the
+Commissioners of the Navy and Victualling offices, for the arrangements
+depending on their boards. Mr. Pelly, the Governor of the Hudson's Bay
+Company, and Mr. Garry, the Deputy-Governor, as well as every Member of
+its Committee, claim my most sincere thanks for their unremitting
+endeavours to promote the welfare of the Expedition through its whole
+progress; and I feel truly obliged to Mr. Simpson, the Governor in the
+Fur Countries; to Mr. M'Tavish, Mr. Haldane, Mr. M'Donald, Mr. Leith,
+Mr. Stuart, and Messrs. James and George Keith, Chief Factors, who,
+acting in the spirit of their instructions, were very assiduous in
+collecting provisions and stores for the use of my party, and in
+forwarding all our supplies. There were other gentlemen resident in the
+more northern parts of the country, to whom I am no less obliged for
+advice and assistance; but the brevity requisite in this place
+necessarily compels me to refer to the Narrative, where their names,
+and the services they rendered, are mentioned.
+
+I cannot, however, close this introductory Chapter, without expressing
+the deepest obligation to those kind friends and excellent officers with
+whom I had the happiness of being associated, who constantly aided me by
+their most cordial co-operation, and whose best efforts were devotedly
+applied to every pursuit which could be interesting to science. Nor can
+I omit to mention the gratitude I owe to each of the seamen, marines,
+British and Canadian voyagers who composed our party at the
+winter-quarters, for their steady obedience and truly good conduct,
+whether in the days of relaxation during the winter, or in the more
+arduous exertions of our summer occupations.
+
+
+
+
+OFFICIAL INSTRUCTIONS.
+
+
+_Downing-street, 31st Jan. 1825._
+
+SIR,
+
+His Majesty's Government having decided that an Expedition should be set
+forth, for the purpose of exploring the Northern Coast of America,
+between the Mouth of Mackenzie's River, and the Strait of Behring; and
+confiding in your zeal and experience for the due execution of this
+service, I have recommended you as a proper person to be charged with
+the same. You are, therefore, to proceed with your party (a list of whom
+is annexed) by the Packet from Liverpool to New York, and from thence
+make the best of your way to Lake Huron, where the stores necessary for
+your journey have already been sent. Embarking in Canoes, you are from
+thence to follow the water communication to the western side of the
+Great Bear Lake, where you are to establish your winter-quarters; and
+having so done, your first care should be to endeavour to open a
+friendly communication with the Esquimaux.
+
+Early in the Spring of 1826, you are to proceed down the Mackenzie River
+with all the necessary stores and provisions, in order to be prepared to
+take advantage of the first opening of the ice on the Polar Sea, so as
+to enable you to prosecute your voyage along the coast to Icy Cape,
+round which you are to proceed to Kotzebue's Inlet, where you may expect
+to find His Majesty's Ship Blossom, which the Lords Commissioners of the
+Admiralty will order to proceed to that rendezvous, in the Summer of
+1826. But if, on your arrival at Icy Cape, or the northern point of
+Behring's Strait, you should be of opinion that you could, with safety,
+return the same season to the established winter-quarters, you are at
+liberty to do so, instead of proceeding to join the Blossom. You will,
+therefore, without loss of time, settle with Captain Beechey, her
+commander, such a plan as may appear to you, both, best adapted for
+ensuring your meeting together, and establish a code of signals, or
+devise such other means as may tend to give you information, if
+possible, previous to your reaching the longitude of Icy Cape.
+
+On your arrival at the mouth of Mackenzie River, you are to despatch Dr.
+Richardson with Mr. Kendall and five or six men, in one of the boats, to
+examine the intermediate coast between the Mackenzie and Coppermine
+Rivers; but if you should find that the stores and provisions you have
+been able to accumulate are not sufficient for your own and Dr.
+Richardson's party, you are, in that case, to direct Dr. Richardson to
+employ himself and party on shore, in examining the country contiguous
+to the Mackenzie River, the Rocky Mountains, the shores of the Great
+Bear Lake, the Copper Mountains, and as far round as he can with safety,
+collecting specimens of the animals, plants, and minerals, and also
+laying in a stock of provisions sufficient for both parties, if, by any
+unforeseen accident, you should find yourself compelled to return
+without reaching the Blossom.
+
+If, in proceeding westerly towards Icy Cape, you should make but slow
+progress, and find yourself impeded by ice or land jutting out to the
+northward farther than is calculated upon, or from accidents to the
+boats, or any other unforeseen circumstance, so that it remains doubtful
+whether you will be able to reach the neighbourhood of Kotzebue's Inlet
+the same season, you are not to consider yourself authorized to risk
+yourself and party to the chance of being obliged to winter on the
+coast, but commence your return about the 15th or 20th of August to the
+established winter-quarters on Bear Lake, unless you should be satisfied
+that yourself and party could pass the winter with safety among the
+Esquimaux, and that there was afforded a certainty of your reaching
+Behring's Strait the following Season, when the Blossom will again
+proceed to the appointed rendezvous.
+
+In the event of your reaching Kotzebue's Inlet, the first season,
+Captain Beechey will be instructed to convey you and your party in the
+Blossom to the Sandwich Islands or Canton, as may seem most advisable to
+you, from whence you will be able to take a passage to England in one of
+the Company's Ships or Private Traders; and you will leave such
+instructions with Dr. Richardson for his guidance, in the event of your
+being able to accomplish this point, as you may deem fit and proper for
+his return to England.
+
+In the event of your death, or any accident which may prevent your
+proceeding, the command of the Expedition must necessarily devolve on
+Lieutenant Back, who is to follow these Instructions; but he is not to
+alter any arrangement with regard to Dr. Richardson's proceedings which
+you may have settled for him to pursue, the principal object of Dr.
+Richardson's accompanying you, being that of completing, as far as can
+be done, our knowledge of the Natural History of North America.
+Lieutenant Back will, therefore, in the event above-mentioned, act in
+concert with Dr. Richardson, but not direct him and his party from any
+plan of operations which he and you may previously have settled.
+
+You will take care to inform me from time to time, as opportunities may
+occur, of your proceedings, and the progress made in the Expedition,
+with the direction of which you are hereby entrusted.
+
+  I have the honour to be,
+    Sir,
+      Your most obedient Servant,
+        BATHURST.
+
+ _To Captain Franklin, R.N.,
+ &c. &c. &c._
+
+
+
+
+SECOND JOURNEY TO THE SHORES OF THE POLAR SEA.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+Join the boats in the Methye River--Cross the Long Portage--Arrival to
+Fort Chipewyan--Departure from thence with the whole party for Mackenzie
+River--Arrangements at Fort Norman--Descent to the Sea--Return to the
+Winter Quarters at Great Bear Lake.
+
+
+The boats of the Expedition had advanced from Hudson's Bay into the
+interior, twelve hundred miles, before they were joined by the officers;
+whilst the latter, from taking a more circuitous route by New York and
+Canada, as shown in the introductory chapter, travelled two thousand and
+eight hundred miles, to reach the same point.
+
+[Sidenote: June 29.] This junction took place early in the morning of
+the 29th of June, 1825, in the Methye River, latitude 56 degrees 10
+minutes N., longitude 108 degrees 55 minutes W., which is almost at the
+head of the waters that flow from the north into Hudson's Bay.
+
+In no part of the journey was the presence of the officers more
+requisite to animate and encourage the crews, because the river itself,
+beside being obstructed by three impassable rapids, is usually so
+shallow, through its whole course of forty miles, as scarcely to admit
+of a flat-bottomed bateau floating with half its cargo, much less our
+boats, which drew, when loaded, from eighteen to twenty inches. This
+river and its impediments being surmounted, the Methye Portage, ten
+miles and three quarters long, was at no great distance, which is always
+held up to the inexperienced voyager as the most laborious part of the
+journey. But whatever apprehensions the men might have entertained on
+this subject, seemed to vanish on our landing amongst them; and Dr.
+Richardson and myself were received by all with cheerful, delighted
+countenances, and by none more warmly than by our excellent friend and
+former interpreter Augustus the Esquimaux, and Ooligbuck, whom he had
+brought from Churchill, as his companion. A breakfast was quickly
+prepared by Mr. Fraser, a clerk of the Hudson's Bay Company, under whose
+charge the boats had been, since their departure from Cumberland House;
+and I then inspected the boats and stores, which I was rejoiced to find
+were in good order. We had brought letters from the relatives of several
+of the party, and another hour was allowed to read them.
+
+At ten A.M. we began to ascend the stream, but very soon found that it
+was necessary for the whole party to walk in the water, and drag the
+boats through the mud. Nor could we long advance even by this mode, but
+were compelled either to carry some of the cargo along the shore, where
+walking was at all practicable, or else to take half the lading in a
+boat to a part where the river was deeper, and then return for the
+remainder. From thus travelling the distance twice over, it was the
+fifth day before we reached the lake from whence its waters flow.
+
+[Sidenote: Thursday, 30.] On the evening of the 30th of June, we
+witnessed one of those violent but momentary gusts of wind which occur
+not unfrequently in the spring and autumn, and which prove so
+destructive to the forests in this country. It was preceded by calm and
+very sultry weather, with loud thunder and vivid lightning. In an
+instant the tents were overthrown, and even very large trees were bent
+by its force into a horizontal position; indeed, for a few seconds, the
+scene around us appeared one of almost entire devastation. When the
+violence of the squall was past, we had great reason to be pleased at
+its occurrence, for the strong steady breeze and heavy rain that
+succeeded, carried away the myriads of musquitoes by which we had been
+tormented the whole day.
+
+[Sidenote: Monday, 4.] Having crossed the Methye Lake, we arrived at the
+portage of that name. Here it was necessary to make an equal division of
+the cargoes, and to devise means for the conveyance of the boats. The
+packages amounted to one hundred and sixteen, weighing from seventy to
+ninety pounds each, exclusive of the three boats and the men's personal
+luggage; and there were nineteen men of the boats' crews, two
+Canadians, and two boys, to carry these burdens. At first the packages
+were equally distributed among this party; but several of the men, who
+had been reduced by their previous exertions, became lame: among these
+were the Esquimaux, and we were, therefore, compelled to make other
+arrangements, and ultimately to employ the crew of my canoe, though the
+great fatigue they had suffered in our rapid journey from
+Penetanguishene, made me desirous of sparing them for the present.
+
+The boats were the heaviest and most difficult articles to transport.
+One of the small boats was carried on the shoulders of eight men, of
+whom Mr. Fraser undertook to be one, as an example to the rest. Another
+of the same size was dragged by another eight men; and the largest was
+conveyed on a truck made for the purpose on the spot, to which service
+the lame were attached.
+
+Each day's journey, and also the intermediate stages, were determined by
+the places where water could be procured, and our mode of travelling was
+as follows:--Rising at three A.M., the men carried a part of their
+burden to the first stage, and continued to go backwards and forwards
+till the whole was deposited. They then slept for a few hours, and in
+the cool of the evening the boats were brought up. [Sidenote: Monday,
+11th.] By these means every thing was ready at the western end of the
+portage early on Monday, the 11th of July. The slight injuries which the
+boats had received, principally from exposure to the sun, were soon
+repaired; they were put into the water to tighten, and the whole party
+were allowed to rest.
+
+With reference to the Methye Portage I may remark, that, except the
+steep hill at its western extremity, the road is good and tolerably
+level, and it appeared to us that much fatigue and suffering might have
+been spared by using trucks. Accordingly two were made by our carpenters
+at Fort Chipewyan, in 1827, for the return of the Expedition, and they
+answered extremely well. I mention this circumstance, in the hope that
+some such expedient will be adopted by the Traders for the relief of
+their voyagers, who have twice in every year to pass over this ridge of
+hills.
+
+[Sidenote: Tuesday 12th.] Being now in a fair way to reach the Athabasca
+Lake, Dr. Richardson and I embarked, on the 12th, in the canoe, to
+proceed to Fort Chipewyan, for the purpose of preparing the gentleman in
+charge for the reception of the party.
+
+By noon we got over the four Portages on Clear-Water river, and
+descended, with some trouble, the series of rapids that follow them.
+Once below these, the passage to the lake is generally considered as
+free from fatigue; but we did not find it so, for, owing to the
+shallowness of the water, the men had to get out and drag the canoe in
+several places. The difference between the depth of water now and in
+other years at the same period, was attributed to the snow having fallen
+in the preceding autumn before the frost was sufficiently intense to
+harden the ground, and, consequently, much of the moisture had
+penetrated the earth, which, under other circumstances, would have
+remained in a frozen state, for the supply of the river at the spring
+thaw.
+
+In the course of the night we were under much alarm for one of our men,
+who having incautiously lain down to sleep under a wet sail, while the
+rain was pouring heavily, was seized with a cramp in the stomach, and
+violent pain in the head. Having been brought into the tent and covered
+with blankets, he became better before morning, but not sufficiently
+strong to allow of our setting off at the usual hour. [Sidenote:
+Wednesday, 13th.] We entered the Elk, or Athabasca River, at three P.M.,
+on the 13th, and were carried swiftly down by its current to the
+Hudson's Bay Company's post named Berens House, where we stayed the
+night. Here we received a supply of dried meat. [Sidenote: Friday,
+15th.] We safely arrived in the Athabasca Lake on the 15th, by the
+channel of the "Rivière des Eaux remuées;" but in the subsequent
+traverse between Bustard Island and Fort Chipewyan the canoe was in
+danger of foundering in a sudden gale. Two large waves broke with full
+force into it, and obliged us to bear away and steer for the nearest
+shore; but the men having soon rested, and being now sheltered by
+islands, we pushed on to Fort Chipewyan. Our arrival there caused great
+surprise to its inmates, when they learned that we had come from England
+to that advanced post so early in the season, being only two days later
+than the time at which Dr. Richardson and Mr. Hood had arrived in 1819,
+though they passed the winter at Cumberland House.
+
+The stores at Fort Chipewyan being well furnished with warm clothing,
+and other articles, which we required for the use of the men and Indians
+at winter-quarters, I availed myself of the permission which the chief
+factor of this department, Mr. James Keith, had given me to complete our
+stock of cloth, blankets, nets, and twine, to a quantity sufficient for
+two years' consumption. A supply of twine was indispensable, because,
+by a letter from Mr. Dease, I had learned that the meshes of the nets
+made in England, of the size generally required for fishing throughout
+this country, were too large for the smaller fish that frequent that
+part of Bear Lake where our house was to be constructed. Mr. Campbell,
+the clerk in charge, cheerfully gave me the benefit of his experience in
+making out lists of such things as we were likely to want, and in
+assorting and packing them.
+
+[Sidenote: Monday, 18th.] The boats rejoined on the 18th, and the crews
+were allowed the following day to recruit themselves. A party of Indians
+came very opportunely with fresh meat, which is always an agreeable
+change to the voyager, who has generally to live on dried provision. The
+Indians, as well as the women and children of the fort, spent the
+greater part of the day by the side of our boats, admiring their whole
+equipment, but more especially the gay figures painted on them. Many of
+these were different from any animals or representations they had seen,
+and, judging from the bursts of laughter, some curious remarks were made
+on them.
+
+[Sidenote: Wednesday, 20th.] It being necessary that I should await the
+arrival of Lieutenant Back's canoes, Dr. Richardson undertook to proceed
+with the boats towards Slave Lake. Their lading was now increased by the
+bales already mentioned, as well as by several bags of pemmican, which
+Mr. Keith had stored up for our use. The crews, however, were reduced by
+the discharge of three Englishmen, at their own desire, who thought
+themselves unequal to the fatigue of the service.
+
+[Sidenote: Saturday, 23d.] I had the happiness, on the 23rd, of
+welcoming my friends, Lieutenant Back and Mr. Kendall, on their arrival
+with three canoes. Their journey from Fort William had been expeditious,
+notwithstanding the detention of eighteen days, by bad weather, on the
+road. A serious misfortune had happened at the very outset of the
+journey, through the unskilfulness of one of the bowmen, in allowing his
+canoe to turn round and get before the current, while attempting to
+ascend the Barrier Rapid, by which it was driven against a stone with
+such force, as to be overset and broken. The stores were fortunately
+saved, though completely drenched; but many of the delicate
+atmospherical instruments were broken. Mr. Kendall was despatched to
+Fort William for another canoe while the things were drying.
+
+On a subsequent occasion, in the Winipeg River, the same man placed his
+canoe in such a situation, as to endanger its being hurried down a steep
+fall, and had it not been for the coolness of a man, named Lavallé, who
+jumped into the water and held the canoe, while the rest of the crew
+arranged themselves so as to drag it into a place of safety, every life
+must have been sacrificed. The success, indeed the safety of this kind
+of river navigation, among currents and rapids, depends on the skill of
+the bowman; and after these proofs of his incapacity, Lieutenant Back
+very properly engaged a substitute at the first fort to which he came.
+
+At another time, in the Sturgeon-weir River, the canoe in which Mr.
+Kendall was embarked, having been accidentally driven before the
+current, she was only saved from destruction by his own powerful
+exertion and activity.
+
+These short details will convey an idea of the anxiety and trouble these
+officers experienced in their journey to Chipewyan.
+
+The party and the stores having now passed the more difficult part of
+the road, I discharged as many of the Canadians as could be spared, and
+furnished them with a canoe to take them home. Some went to Montreal;
+and they were the first persons who had ever gone from that place to
+Chipewyan, and returned in the same season.
+
+[Sidenote: Monday, 25th.] The greater part of the 25th was employed in
+obtaining astronomical observations, the results of which, we were
+delighted to find, placed Fort Chipewyan within a few seconds of
+longitude of the position in which it had been laid down on the former
+Expedition. Our present azimuth compasses showed an increase in
+variation, since 1820, of 2 degrees 16 minutes E. The dip was observed
+81 degrees 26 minutes 47 seconds.
+
+Fort Chipewyan was this summer visited, for the first time, by a large
+flight of swallows, resembling the house-martins of England. They came
+in a body on the 25th of June, and immediately began to construct their
+earthy nests under the ledge of the south-front of the house. Some barn
+or forked-tail swallows also arrived on the 15th of June, and took
+possession of the store-houses and garrets, as they had in former years
+done. Some of the young of the last-mentioned birds were sporting on the
+tops of the houses as early as the 17th of July.
+
+At sunset we embarked in four canoes, one having been procured here. The
+descent to Slave Lake occupied four days, and was unattended with any
+circumstance deserving mention, except that two of the canoes were
+broken in consequence of the guide mistaking the proper channel in a
+rapid; fortunately, these bark vessels are soon repaired, and we had
+only to regret the delay the accident occasioned.
+
+We halted at the Salt River to take in salt, as we found, by a note left
+here, Dr. Richardson had done. The geese were moulting at this time, and
+unable to fly; they afforded us much sport in their chase, and an
+excellent supper every night.
+
+A body of Indians were waiting near the entrance of the lake to welcome
+our arrival; they were so numerous, that we were forced to omit our
+general custom of giving a small present to each native, and thus
+incurred the charge of stinginess, which the loud vociferations they
+raised on our setting sail, were probably meant to convey.
+
+[Sidenote: Friday, 29th.] At six, on the evening of the 29th, we reached
+Fort Resolution, the only establishment now at Slave Lake, and we felt
+happy in being once more under the roof of our hospitable friend, Mr.
+Robert M'Vicar, to whom I am much indebted for the excellent order in
+which he had brought up our supplies from Canada in the preceding year.
+Dr. Richardson, after a halt of two days, had gone forward with the
+boats.
+
+All the portages on the road to Bear Lake being now passed, the
+Canadians made a request, that we would allow them to commemorate the
+event by a dance. It met with a ready compliance; and though they had
+been paddling for thirty-six out of the thirty-nine preceding hours,
+they kept up their favourite amusement until daylight, to the music of
+bagpipes, relieved occasionally by the Jews' harp.
+
+We rejoiced to find at this post our worthy old Copper-Indian friends,
+Keskarrah and Humpy, the brother of Akaitcho, who had been waiting two
+months for the express purpose of seeing us. These excellent men showed
+that their gratification equalled ours, by repeatedly seizing our hands
+and pressing them against their hearts, and exclaiming, "How much we
+regret that we cannot tell what we feel for you here!" Akaitcho had left
+the fort about two months on a hunting excursion, hoping to return, with
+plenty of provision for our use, by the middle of August, which was as
+early as he thought we should arrive. Keskarrah confirmed the melancholy
+report we had heard in the more southern districts, that most of the
+hunters who had been in our service at Fort Enterprise, had been
+treacherously murdered, with many others of the tribe, by the Dog-Ribs,
+with which nation we also learned the Copper-Indians had been at war,
+since the year of our departure from them, till the last spring. The
+peace had been effected through the mediation of Messrs. Dease and
+M'Vicar, and we were gratified to find that Akaitcho and his tribe had
+been principally induced to make this reconciliation, by a desire that
+no impediment might be placed in the way of our present expedition. "We
+have too much esteem," said Akaitcho, "for our father, and for the
+service in which he is about to be again engaged, to impede its success
+by our wars, and, therefore, they shall cease;" and on being asked by
+Mr. Dease whether he and some of his young men would go to hunt for the
+party at our winter quarters, he replied, "Our hearts will be with them,
+but we will not go to those parts where the bones of our murdered
+brethren lie, for fear our bad passions should be aroused at the sight
+of their graves, and that we should be tempted to renew the war by the
+recollection of the manner of their death. Let the Dog-Ribs who live in
+the neighbourhood of Bear Lake furnish them with meat, though they are
+our enemies." Such sentiments would do honour to any state of
+civilization, and show that the most refined feelings may animate the
+most untutored people. Happily we were now so circumstanced as to be
+able to reward the friendship of these good men by allotting from our
+stores a liberal present to the principal persons. On the delivery of
+the articles to Keskarrah and Humpy, I desired them to communicate to
+Akaitcho, and the whole tribe, the necessity of their strictly adhering
+to the terms of peace, and assured them that I should not fail to urge
+the same obligations on the Dog-Ribs. A silver royal medal, such as is
+given to the Indian chiefs in Upper Canada, was likewise left with Mr.
+M'Vicar, to be presented to Akaitcho, as a further mark of our regard
+for his former services and present good wishes.
+
+[Sidenote: Sunday, 31st.] The party was detained at Fort Resolution
+until this morning by a strong south-west gale; and even when we
+embarked, the wind and waves were still high, but time was too precious
+to allow of our waiting when there was a prospect of making any advance.
+As our future course inclined to the westward, we now quitted the track
+of the former journey to Fort Enterprise, along which we had been
+travelling from Lake Winipeg. We first steered for the Buffalo River,
+and then along the south shore of Slave Lake, obtained the latitude 61
+degrees 1 minute N. at noon, and afterwards the longitude 114 degrees
+18-1/2 minutes W. at the Isle of the Dead. The islands and shores of
+this part of the lake are composed of horizontal beds of limestone,
+containing pitch and shells.
+
+A small party of Chipewyan Indians, with their principal chief, joined
+us at the encampment, from whom we learned that they had supplied Dr.
+Richardson with dried meat the preceding noon, at Hay River. The Chief
+was very importunate for rum, but I steadily adhered to the
+determination I had formed this time, on my entering the Fur Country, of
+not giving spirits to any Indian. A share of our supper and tea, and
+some tobacco, were offered to him, and accepted, though with a bad
+grace. The Fur Company ceased the following season to bring any rum to
+this quarter, and I learned that this man was one of the few natives who
+were highly displeased at this judicious change.
+
+[Sidenote: Monday, 1st.] We coasted this day along the low shore of the
+lake, steering from point to point to avoid the sinuosities of several
+deep bays, and passed the mouth of the Sandy and Hay Rivers, whose
+positions we settled by astronomical observations.
+
+[Sidenote: Tuesday, 2nd.] On the 2nd we came to the narrow part between
+the Big Island of Mackenzie, and the main shore, and perceived that a
+gentle current was setting towards the Mackenzie river. The water in
+this strait is very shallow, and also in many places near the south
+shore, though we know, from trial, on the former Expedition, that the
+depth of the east end of the lake, at a distance from the land, exceeds
+sixty and seventy fathoms. The beach, both of the north and south shores
+of the strait, is strewed with drift timber. In clear weather the north
+shore is visible from the point of the south shore nearest Big Island.
+
+Below this _detroit_ the shores recede so as to form a small shallow
+lake, about twenty-four miles long, by from four to twelve miles broad,
+near the north-west end of which we encamped, in latitude 61 degrees 15
+minutes N., longitude 117 degrees 6 minutes W. This spot may be
+considered as the commencement of Mackenzie River. The ground is very
+swampy, and nourishes willows only; but inland, at a short distance from
+the beach, grow plenty of the spruce-fir, poplar, aspen, and birch
+trees; and among the underwood, numerous shrubs and berry-bearing
+plants.
+
+[Sidenote: Wednesday, 3rd.] On the 3rd we travelled to another
+contraction of the river about one mile broad, through which the current
+sets between high banks with such force as to form strong eddies. There
+are likewise in this part many sandy islands, and through the channels
+between them the current rushed with no less rapidity than in that we
+descended. For distinction's sake, these islands have been named the
+"Isles of the Rapid:" below them occurs another expansion, which is
+called by the voyagers "The Little Lake;" and Sandy Point at its
+north-west end, is considered by them as the commencement of the
+Mackenzie River.
+
+When abreast of this point, a favouring breeze enabled us to use the
+sail as well as the paddles, and with the assistance of the current
+great progress was made. We had occasional glimpses of the Horn and
+Rein-Deer Mountains as we passed along; but, until we were some way
+below the rapids, our view was very limited, owing to the woods being on
+fire in almost every direction. This I should have mentioned to have
+been the case in many parts between Isle à la Crosse and the Mackenzie.
+The cause of these extensive conflagrations I could not learn; some
+attributed them to voluntary acts of the Indians, and others to their
+negligence in leaving their fires burning.
+
+We put up at sunset on a beach of gravel under a well-wooded bank of
+moderate height, and the party regaled themselves with raspberries and
+other indigenous fruits.
+
+[Sidenote: Thursday, 4th.] At half past two A.M., on the 4th, the canoes
+were again on the water, and being driven by sail and current, made good
+way. We stopped at the Trout River, which flows in from the southward,
+and ascertained its longitude 119 degrees 47 minutes W. The breadth of
+the Mackenzie is here about two miles, and its banks are composed of a
+muddy clay: the stones on the beach mostly limestone, with some boulders
+of primitive rocks. The trees are of the kinds we had seen north of the
+Athabasca Lake: they are here of a smaller size. Five miles below this
+part, the Mackenzie is divided into several channels by islands, and the
+current runs with increased swiftness, and strong eddies.
+
+The latitude 61 degrees 26 minutes 30 seconds N. was obtained at noon;
+it was the same as on the preceding day; so that our course, in the
+interval, had been due west.
+
+The banks now were higher, and for the next forty miles the breadth of
+the stream did not exceed one mile, nor was less than half a mile; its
+course inclined more to the north. We passed the site of the first
+establishment that the North-West Company had made in these parts, which
+was erected by Mr. Livingstone, one of the partners, who, with the whole
+of the crew of his canoe, except one individual, were massacred by the
+Esquimaux on the first attempt to open a trade with them.
+
+At three P.M. a picturesque view opened upon us of a distant range of
+mountains running east and west, and nearly at right angles to the
+course of the river. The current being considerably increased by the
+contribution of some streams near this place, we descended very swiftly.
+Six miles below Pine Island, there is a strong but not a dangerous
+rapid; and about fifteen miles farther is Fort Simpson, the principal
+depôt of the Hudson Bay Company for this department, at which we arrived
+by eight P.M., and thus escaped a very wet, comfortless night. Dr.
+Richardson had departed for Fort Norman the preceding day.
+
+This establishment, three hundred and thirty-eight miles from Fort
+Resolution on Slave Lake, is situated at the confluence of the River of
+the Mountains and the Mackenzie. The former is the channel of
+communication with a fur post not far distant from the Rocky Mountain
+Range, from whence the residents here procure much of their provision,
+including a tolerable supply of potatoes, which have been recently
+introduced from the southern parts. Mr. Smith, the chief factor of the
+district, was fortunately at Fort Simpson, so that I had the opportunity
+of arranging with him as to supplies of provision or stores that my
+party might require during its residence at Bear Lake. He cheerfully
+acceded to every suggestion that was made, and likewise furnished me
+with a letter of instruction to the same effect, addressed to the
+gentleman in charge of the lower posts.
+
+I learned from Mr. Smith that, as yet, a few only of the Indians who
+live nearest the mouth of the river, and none of the Esquimaux, had been
+apprized of our intended visit, the traders at the lower posts having
+considered that it would be better to defer this communication until we
+should arrive in the river, for fear of disappointing these people,
+which might have been attended with unpleasant results.
+
+There were two Canadians here belonging to the Expedition, whom Mr.
+Dease had sent to serve as guides to Bear Lake. By letters which they
+brought, I was informed that Indian hunters were engaged, and the
+necessary buildings in course of preparation for our reception. As Fort
+Simpson had been short of ammunition during the summer from some
+accidental cause, I was glad to find that Mr. Dease had been enabled to
+lend from our stores a barrel of powder, and a bag of balls and I now
+increased the loan, so as to meet the probable demands of the Indians,
+until the Company's supplies should arrive, when they would return to
+Fort Norman the whole of what we had lent. Cloudy weather limited our
+astronomical observations at this place to the dip of the needle, which
+was observed 81 degrees 54 minutes.
+
+[Sidenote: Friday, 5th.] We quitted the fort on the 5th, soon after noon,
+whence the river preserving nearly a straight course for fifteen miles,
+gradually extends itself to nearly two miles in breadth; in its channel
+there are three islands. At two P.M. we obtained the first glimpse of
+the Rocky Mountains, and kept them in view until we encamped, which was
+early, as the canoes required gumming. The outline of the mountains was
+very peaked, and at their easternmost part was a cone-shaped hill,
+higher than the rest, whose summit was veiled by clouds. The general
+appearance of the range somewhat reminded me of the east end of Jamaica.
+
+[Sidenote: Saturday, 6th.] The morning of the 6th was beautifully fine:
+we embarked at 2h 30m A.M., and by seven came within six or seven miles
+of the mountain range, where the river suddenly changes its course from
+W.b.N. to north, in longitude 123 degrees 31 minutes W.
+
+A distinct stratification was perceptible on the face of the nearest
+mountain: on one side of a nearly perpendicular ravine the strata dip to
+the southward at an angle of 25 degrees; whilst on the other they are
+nearly horizontal. There was a large accumulation of debris at its base:
+every part of the hill was destitute of vegetation. Its altitude was
+guessed at one thousand two hundred feet.
+
+At noon, in latitude 62 degrees 49 minutes N., we saw a chain of
+mountains, on the eastern side of the river, similar in their outline
+and general character to those hitherto seen only on the opposite bank.
+Between these ranges the river flowed in a channel two miles broad; but
+as we advanced we receded from those on the western side, their
+direction being W.N.W. In the brilliancy of the sunshine, the surfaces
+of some of the eastern hills, which were entirely bare, appeared white
+as marble, and for some time we fancied them to be covered with snow. By
+four P.M. we reached the Rocky Island mentioned by Mackenzie, where,
+from the river being contracted, the current flowed with great rapidity,
+and soon brought us opposite to the remarkable hill close by the river
+side, which that persevering traveller ascended in July, 1789. His
+account renders a description of it unnecessary. It is composed of
+limestone, and is about four hundred feet high.
+
+We continued a N.b.W. course for eight miles, and encamped at sunset,
+having travelled this day one hundred and twenty miles. A small supply
+of fresh deer's meat was obtained from some Dog-Rib Indians. Their
+canoes were made of the bark of the pine-tree, sewn at the ends and top
+with the fibrous parts of the root of that tree, leaving only a space
+sufficient for the legs of the sitter.
+
+[Sidenote: Sunday, 7th.] We pursued our course at dawn of day, and at
+the end of a few miles came to a more winding part of the river, where
+the stream is interrupted by numerous sand banks and shoals which we had
+some trouble to get round. Mr. Kendall, in his Journal, remarks of this
+part, "That bubbles of air continually rose to the surface with a
+hissing noise resembling the effervescence produced by pouring water on
+quick lime."
+
+We arrived at Fort Norman at ten, A.M., distant two hundred and
+thirty-six miles from Fort Simpson, and five hundred and seventy-four
+from Fort Resolution.
+
+Being now only four days' journey from Bear Lake, and there remaining
+yet five or six weeks of open season, I resolved on following up a plan
+of a voyage to the sea, which I had cherished ever since leaving
+England, without imparting it to my companions, until our departure from
+Fort Chipewyan, because I was apprehensive that some unforeseen accident
+might occur in the course of the very intricate and dangerous river
+navigation between Fort William and the Athabasca Lake, which might
+delay our arrival here to too late a period of the year. It was
+arranged, _first_, that I should go down to the sea, accompanied by Mr.
+Kendall, and collect whatever information could be obtained, either from
+actual observation, or from the intelligence of the Loucheux Indians, or
+the Esquimaux, respecting the general state of the ice in the summer and
+autumn; the direction of the coast, east and west of the Mackenzie; and
+whether we might calculate upon any supply of provision. _Secondly_, Dr.
+Richardson, on his own suggestion was to proceed in a boat along the
+northern shore of Bear Lake, to the part where it approached nearest to
+the Coppermine River, and there fix upon a spot to which he might bring
+the party the following year, on its return from the mouth of that
+river. And, _thirdly_, that these undertakings might not interfere with
+the important operations necessary for the comfortable residence and
+subsistence of the Expedition during the following winter, Lieutenant
+Back was to superintend them during my absence, with the assistance of
+Mr. Dease, chief trader of the Hudson Bay Company, whose suggestions,
+relative to the proper distribution of the Indian hunters, and the
+station of the fishermen, he was to follow. Accordingly, Dr. Richardson,
+on his quitting this place two days previous to our arrival, had left
+the largest of the boats, the Lion, for my use and a well-selected crew
+of six Englishmen, and Augustus the Esquimaux.
+
+Lieutenant Back was directed to take the canoes forward to Bear Lake,
+laden with such supplies as would be required for the winter, and was
+further instructed to furnish Dr. Richardson with one of the boats, and
+a good crew. The services of the Canadians who had brought the canoes
+from Penetanguishene, being no longer required, I desired Lieutenant
+Back to discharge them, and also all the voyagers of Mr. Dease's party
+who could be spared. They were sent in canoes to Slave Lake, where I had
+arranged with Mr. M'Vicar for their being supplied with the means of
+gaining subsistence by fishing, during the winter; and the following
+spring, they were to be forwarded to Canada, at the expense of
+Government, according to the terms of their agreement.
+
+Fort Norman being situated in our way to the sea, the pemmican and other
+stores, intended for the voyage along the coast next season, were
+deposited here, by permission of Mr. Smith, under the care of Mr.
+Brisbois, the clerk in charge. Our observations place this establishment
+in latitude 64 degrees 40 minutes 30 seconds N., and longitude 124
+degrees 53 minutes 22 seconds W.
+
+[Sidenote: Monday, 8th.] The above matters being satisfactorily settled,
+and a few articles packed up as presents to the Indians and Esquimaux,
+Mr. Kendall and I embarked on the 8th, at noon, taking, in addition to
+our crew, a voyager, who was reported to be able to guide us through the
+proper channels to Fort Good Hope, of which, however, we found him
+altogether ignorant. We were accompanied by Lieutenant Back, with the
+three canoes, each manned by five men. The crews of the canoes imagining
+they could easily pass our English boat, were much surprised, on putting
+it to the proof, to find the boat take and maintain the lead, both under
+sail and with oars.
+
+A few miles above the Bear Lake River, and near its mouth, the banks of
+the Mackenzie contain much wood coal, which was on fire at the time we
+passed, as it had been observed to be by Mackenzie in his voyage to the
+sea. Its smell was very disagreeable. On a subsequent trial of this coal
+at our winter quarters, we found that it emitted little heat, and was
+unfit for the blacksmith's use. The banks likewise contain layers of a
+kind of unctuous mud, similar, perhaps, to that found on the borders of
+the Orinoco, which the Indians, in this neighbourhood, use occasionally
+as food during seasons of famine, and even, at other times, chew as an
+amusement. It has a milky taste, and the flavour is not disagreeable. We
+used it for whitening the walls of our dwellings; for which purpose it
+is well adapted.
+
+The entrance of the Bear Lake River is distinguished by a very
+remarkable mountain, whose summit displays a variety of insulated peaks,
+crowded in the most irregular manner. It is composed of limestone; and
+from the lower cliffs, which front the river, a dark, bituminous liquid
+oozes and discolours the rock. There are likewise two streams of
+sulphureous water that flow from its base into the Mackenzie. At this
+place we parted from our friend, Lieutenant Back, who entered the clear
+and beautiful stream that flows from Bear Lake, of whose pure waters we
+had also the benefit, till they were overpowered by the muddy current of
+the Mackenzie. The day was fine, the wind fair, the current swift, and
+every circumstance concurred to put the party in high glee. There was
+little in the scenery to attract our attention, now that we had become
+familiar with the general appearance of the Mackenzie, and we passed
+island after island, of the same alluvial mud, without further regard
+than the delineation of them in the survey book. At length, however, a
+most picturesque view of the Rocky Mountain range opened before us, and
+excited general admiration, and we had also some portions of the
+mountain range on the eastern side of the river, in view for the
+remainder of the day's journey. The outline of these mountains is very
+irregular, the highest parts being peaked hills. The general direction
+of the ranges is between N.W. and N.W.b.W.
+
+Being unwilling to lose the advantage of the wind, we only put ashore to
+sup, and after two hours' delay, resumed our voyage under easy sail.
+[Sidenote: Tuesday, 9th.] When the sun rose, the oars were used; and
+then, as the current set at the rate of two miles and a half per hour,
+the boat travelled swiftly down the stream. The eastern bank of the
+river, along which we were passing, is about one hundred and twenty feet
+high, almost perpendicular, and is composed of thin strata of bituminous
+shale. Amongst the fragments of shale which strewed the beach, we found
+many pieces of brown wood-coal. A reach, eighteen miles in length,
+followed. It is bounded on both sides by high cliffs of sand-stone. We
+landed to breakfast, and to obtain the longitude, 128 degrees 23 minutes
+W.
+
+From the reach here described, are seen two hills, named by me the East
+and West Mountains of the rapid, which seem to present a barrier to the
+further progress of the stream; but the river, bending suddenly between
+them to the north, dilates into a kind of basin, and, by so doing, opens
+by far the most interesting view of the Rocky Mountains which the
+Mackenzie affords. The river, too, makes its nearest approach to those
+mountains at this spot, and probably, the easiest communication with
+them would be by ascending a small stream that flows in here on the
+western side. Here too are found the first rapids mentioned by
+Mackenzie, which continue in succession for two miles, when the water is
+low. The centre of the basin is occupied by low sandy islands; and the
+channel on the western side is the deepest. The beauty of this scene
+furnished employment for the able pencil of Lieutenant Back, on a
+subsequent occasion. As the Mackenzie, in its further descent, continues
+to hold a northerly course, and the range of mountains runs N.W.b.N., we
+did not obtain any other view of them till we approached the sea.
+
+At one P.M. we saw a party of Indians encamped on the beach of a small
+stream, whom we invited to come off to us. They hesitated at first,
+being doubtful who we were, from our boat being different in shape from
+any they had seen, and carrying two sails; but after some time they
+launched their canoes, and brought us a good supply of fresh deer's
+meat. The sight of our boats seemed to delight them as much as the
+ammunition and tobacco which they received. These were Hare Indians, the
+tribe that follows next to the Dog-Ribs, in the line of country below
+Bear Lake; and, like them, they speak a dialect of the Chipewyan
+language. We admired the shape and appearance of their canoes, which
+were larger than those used by the Chipewyans, and had the fore part
+covered with bark, to fit them for the navigation of this broad river,
+where the waves are often high.
+
+The river varied from two to four miles in breadth, and its course was
+interrupted by several small islands and sand-banks. At six P.M. we came
+to an open space, bounded by lofty walls of sandstone. In this expansion
+are found the second rapids of Mackenzie: at the first appearance they
+seem dangerous, but are not so. The river becomes again contracted, and
+rushes with great force for the space of seven miles through a kind of
+defile, varying in breadth from four hundred to eight hundred yards,
+which has been appropriately named "The Ramparts," by the traders. The
+walls of this defile are from eighty to one hundred and fifty feet high,
+and are composed of limestone, containing numerous shells: for a part of
+the way the stone is very white, and in the rest it is blue. Several
+streams of water were running over the summits of the cliffs, which had
+worn the stone in some places, into a turreted shape; while the heaps,
+overthrown by its action at their base, resemble mounds for defence. To
+these appearances were occasionally added cavernous openings, and other
+hollow parts, not unlike the arched windows or gateways of a castellated
+building. I could not help fancying what delight a visit to this spot
+would afford to any person of a romantic turn, especially at the time we
+first saw it, when the broad shadows of a declining sun gave effect to
+the picture. This is a place of resort for the Hare Indians to fish, and
+we were visited by a large party of men and women of that tribe, who
+brought fish, berries, and meat. They were all neatly clothed in new
+leathern dresses, highly ornamented with beads and porcupine quills. The
+paintings of animals on the sides of our boats were very attractive to
+them; they scanned every figure over and over, bursting into laughter
+whenever they recognised any of the animals. We encamped near a small
+river below the ramparts, one hundred and ninety-three miles from Fort
+Norman. Two young Indians followed us in their canoes, bringing some
+musk-rat skins, and fish for sale. We purchased the fish, but declined
+taking the furs. They were so pleased with their reception, that they
+passed the night by our fire.
+
+[Sidenote: Wednesday, 10th.] At daylight we again embarked, and
+descended the river pleasantly and swiftly under sail, having the
+benefit of a strong current, especially where it was narrowed by islands
+or sand-banks. The sides of the river are generally high cliffs of
+limestone or sandstone, and its breadth from two to three miles. The
+intervals between these cliffs are mostly occupied by hills of sand,
+from eighty to one hundred feet high, whose intermediate valleys are
+well wooded; and whenever these occur, the channel of the river is much
+interrupted by banks, on which, as well as on the beach, there are vast
+collections of drift timber, piled, in some places, twenty feet high, by
+the spring floods.
+
+At eleven P.M. we arrived at Fort Good Hope, the lowest of the
+Company's establishments; it is distant from Fort Norman three hundred
+and twelve miles, and is in latitude 67 degrees 28 minutes 21 seconds
+N., and longitude 130 degrees 51 minutes 38 seconds W.: the variation of
+the compass being 47 degrees 28 minutes 41 seconds E. Our arrival at
+this period of the year, at least two months earlier than that of the
+Company's boats from York Factory, caused great astonishment to the few
+inmates of this dreary dwelling, and particularly to its master, Mr.
+Charles Dease, who scarcely recovered from his surprise until we had
+been seated some time in his room. But this over, he quickly put every
+one in motion to prepare a meal for us, of which we stood in much need,
+as it was then verging on midnight, and we had breakfasted at eight in
+the morning. This post had been but recently established for the
+convenience of the tribe of Indians whom Mackenzie calls the
+Quarrellers, but whom the traders throughout the fur country name
+Loucheux. As this name is now in general use, I shall adopt it, though
+it is but justice to the people to say, that they have bright sparkling
+eyes, without the least tendency to that obliquity which might be
+inferred from the term. The fact is, that Loucheux, or Squinter, was
+intended to convey the sense of the Indian name of the tribe--Deguthée
+Dennee, which means "the people who avoid the arrows of their enemies,
+by keeping a look out on both sides." None of the tribe was at this time
+at the fort; but from Mr. Dease we learned the interesting fact, that
+the Loucheux and Esquimaux, who are generally at war, had met amicably
+the preceding spring, and that they were now at peace. We procured from
+the store an assortment of beads, and such things as were most in
+request with the Loucheux, and made up a small package of clothing to be
+presented to each chief of that tribe, whose favour it was thought
+advisable by this means to propitiate, as they were the next neighbours
+to the Esquimaux.
+
+[Sidenote: Thursday, 11th.] After the latitude had been observed, we
+embarked, and were accompanied by Mr. Dease as far as Trading River,
+where he expected there might still be a party of Indians, which did not
+prove the case. This river being the usual limit of the trader's travels
+towards the sea, the voyager who had come with us from Fort Norman
+declined going any farther, and by permission of Mr. Dease he was
+exchanged for a young half-breed named Baptiste, the interpreter of the
+fort, who went under the promise of being left with the chief of the
+Loucheux, to whom he was to introduce the party.
+
+The reach below Trading River is remarkable, from the banks on the
+eastern side consisting of hills of a light yellow marl-slate, nearly
+uniform in shape, and strongly resembling piles of cannon shot. The name
+of Cannon-Shot Reach was, therefore, bestowed on it. The channel of the
+river is very intricate, winding amongst numerous sand-banks, and some
+low alluvial islands, on which willows only grow. Its breadth is about
+two miles, and the depth of water, in the autumn, from six to twelve
+feet. In passing through Cannon-Shot Reach, we were hailed by an Indian
+from the shore, and landed immediately, to inform him of the purport of
+our visit. As soon as Baptiste had explained these matters to him, the
+man, deeming it of importance that we should be properly introduced to
+his relatives, offered to accompany us to the next party, providing we
+would undertake to carry his baggage. This we consented to do, little
+expecting, from the appearance of poverty in himself and his family, and
+still less from that of his tent, a mere covering of bark and pine
+branches, supported on three poles, that load upon load of unsavoury
+fish would be tossed into the boat. However, we were unwilling to
+retract our promise, and suffered our vessel to be completely lumbered.
+We then pushed off, leaving the family to follow in the canoe, but in a
+short time our ears were assailed by the loud cries of the man demanding
+that we should stop. On his coming up, we found he was apprehensive of
+the canoe sinking, it being very leaky and overloaded, and of his losing
+his wife and infant child. The water being thrown out, the man proposed
+going forward and keeping by our side. There was nothing now to fear,
+yet the lamentations of the woman became louder and louder, and at last
+the poor creature threw off her only covering, raised the most piteous
+cries, and appeared a perfect object of despair. We learned from
+Baptiste that she was mourning the loss of two near relatives who had
+recently died near the spot we were passing. In this manner do these
+simple people show their sorrow for the death of their connexions. As we
+drew near the tents of the party on shore, the husband proclaimed with a
+stentorian voice who we were; this produced a long reply, of which
+Baptiste could only collect enough to inform us that many persons were
+lying sick in the lodges, and that two had died the preceding day. Not
+choosing to expose ourselves to the hazard of contagion, we put the
+baggage of our friend on shore at some distance below the lodges. All
+those who were able to manage a canoe, came off to receive presents, and
+to see Augustus, the principal object of attraction. Each person
+crowded to the side on which he sat to shake him by the hand; and two of
+the party, who had been occasionally with the Esquimaux, contrived to
+make him understand that, being accompanied by him, we need apprehend no
+violence from them, though they were a treacherous people. At the end of
+five miles farther we put on shore to sup, and afterwards slept in the
+boat; but Augustus spread his blankets on the beach before the fire, and
+allowed four of the Loucheux, who had followed us from the tents, to
+share them with him.
+
+[Sidenote: Friday, 12th.] At daylight we loosened from the beach, and
+continued with the descent of the river; winding, in our course, as
+numerous sand-banks rendered necessary. In a few hours we descried
+another collection of Indian lodges. One of the party happened to be
+examining his nets nearer to us than the tents; on espying the boat, he
+immediately desisted, and paddled towards his friends with the utmost
+speed, bawling the whole way for them to arm. The women and children
+were seen hurrying up the bank to hide themselves; and by the time we
+had got abreast of the lodges, the whole party were in a state of
+defence. They stood on the beach gazing at us evidently with much
+distrust; and for some time no one would accept our invitations to
+approach. At length an adventurous youth, distinguishable among the rest
+by the gaiety of his dress, and the quantity of beads that were
+suspended around his neck, launched his canoe and paddled gently towards
+the boat, till he discovered Augustus, whom he knew by his countenance
+to be an Esquimaux; then rising from his seat, he threw up his hands for
+joy, and desired every one of the party to embark at once. The summons
+was instantly obeyed, and a friendly intercourse followed; each person
+that had a gun discharging its contents, and taking the iron heads and
+barbs from the arrows, to show their entire confidence. On landing to
+breakfast, we found that the dialect of this party was different from
+that of the men we had seen yesterday, and that Baptiste did not
+understand their language; consequently our communications were carried
+on by signs, except when they attempted to speak Esquimaux, which
+Augustus, with difficulty, made out. He was still the centre of
+attraction, notwithstanding Mr. Kendall and myself were dressed in
+uniform, and were distributing presents to them. They caressed Augustus,
+danced and played around him, to testify their joy at his appearance
+among them, and we could not help admiring the demeanour of our
+excellent little companion under such unusual and extravagant marks of
+attention. He received every burst of applause, every shake of the hand,
+with modesty and affability, but would not allow them to interrupt him
+in the preparation of our breakfast, a task which he always delighted to
+perform. As soon as we had finished our meal, he made his friends sit
+down, and distributed to each person a portion of his own, but without
+any affectation of superiority. When we were on the point of embarking,
+the oldest Indian of the party intimated his desire that we should stop
+until some one whom he had sent for should come. This proved to be his
+son, in a very sickly state. Though the day was warm, the lad was
+shivering with cold, and it was evident he was suffering from fever,
+which the father had no doubt we could cure. The only remedy we could
+apply was some warm tea, with a little brandy in it, which we afterwards
+learned had the desired effect of restoring the invalid. Again we were
+preparing to set off, when the same old man begged us to stop until the
+women should come; these were no less pleased with Augustus, and with
+the presents they received, than the men had been.
+
+This good-natured tribe is distinguished by the traders as the Lower
+Loucheux, but the literal meaning of their Indian name is the Sharp
+Eyes. They are decidedly a well-looking people: in manner, and general
+appearance, they resemble the Esquimaux near the mouth of the Mackenzie,
+though not in their eyes, which are prominent and full. Their canoes,
+too, are shaped like those of the Esquimaux, and made of birch bark,
+which, by some process, is striped from the gunwale perpendicularly
+downwards, for the purpose of ornament. Their summer dress, like that of
+the Upper Loucheux and Esquimaux, is a jacket of leather, prolonged to a
+point before and behind: the leggings, of the same material, are sewn to
+the shoes, and tied by a string round the waist. The outer edges of
+their dress are cut into fringes, coloured with red and yellow earth,
+and generally decorated with beads. Beads are so much coveted by them,
+that, for some years, they were the principal article of trade exchanged
+for their furs; and even now the successful hunter, or the favourite
+son, may be known by the quantity of strings of different coloured beads
+which he has about his neck. These Indians are the only natives of
+America, except the Esquimaux, whom I have seen with the septum of the
+nose perforated, through which, like the Esquimaux, they thrust pieces
+of bone, or small strings of shells, which they purchase from that
+people. Few of them have guns, but each man is armed with a bow and
+arrows. The bows are constructed of three pieces of wood, the middle one
+straight, and those at each end crooked, and bound with sinews, of which
+the string is also made. The dress of the women only differs from that
+of the men by the hood being made sufficiently wide to admit of their
+carrying a child on their back.
+
+At ten A.M. we resumed our journey, followed by the young man who had
+first spoken to us, and his brother, in their canoes, and in the course
+of two hours came abreast of a remarkable round-backed hill, on which we
+were informed Mr. Livingstone and his party had encamped in 1795, the
+night before they were massacred. This hill marks the commencement of
+another contraction of the river, which is here pent in between very
+steep cliffs of blue limestone, which I have denominated the Narrows.
+The Red River contributes its waters to the Mackenzie at the lower part
+of the Narrows, in latitude 67 degrees 27 minutes N., longitude 133
+degrees 31 minutes W.; and, though of inconsiderable size, is remarkable
+as being the boundary between the lands claimed by the Loucheux Indians
+and those of the Esquimaux, and likewise as the spot where the amicable
+meeting between these tribes had been held in the preceding spring. We
+did not find the chief of the Loucheux here, as had been expected, and
+therefore passed on. The banks of the river, now entirely composed of
+sand and sandstone, became gradually lower, and more bare of trees. At
+the end of eight miles we arrived at a very spacious opening, in which
+were numerous well-wooded islands, and various channels. The rocky
+mountains on the west once more appeared in view, extending from S.W. to
+N.W. and preserving a N.W.1/2W. direction; and of this range a very
+lofty peak, and a table mountain, which I have named after the late Mr.
+Gifford, form the most conspicuous features. We steered into the eastern
+channel, as being that through which the current seemed to run swiftest;
+and as soon as we came to a high bank we landed, for the purpose of
+taking a survey of the surrounding scene. But even from its summit our
+view was very limited, and all we could discover was, that we were
+certainly in that expansion of the river that Mackenzie delineates in
+his chart, and, therefore, in the fair way to the sea, whatever channel
+we took. This might have been inferred, from the sudden departure of our
+two Indian companions, who dropped behind and turned their canoes round,
+without further ceremony, as soon as they saw our intention of entering
+the eastern channel. Baptiste, who was asleep at the time, expressed
+surprise at their having gone back, but consoled himself with the idea
+of meeting the Indian chief the next morning, at a place he called the
+Forks. We were amused at conjecturing how great his surprise would be
+should he next be disturbed by the hallowing of a party of Esquimaux,
+whom he greatly dreaded. At the end of twenty-three miles descent in the
+middle channel, having passed one that branched off to the eastward, we
+put up at an early hour, and caused the guns to be cleaned, and two
+sentinels appointed to watch, lest the Esquimaux should come upon us
+unawares. The banks of the river, as well as the islands, are entirely
+alluvial, and support willows at the lower parts, and the spruce-fir
+trees at the summits. The beach on which we were encamped was much
+intersected with the recent tracts of the moose and rein-deer.
+
+[Sidenote: Saturday, 13th.] We embarked at three A.M. on the 13th; and
+as we were in momentary expectation of meeting the Esquimaux with whom I
+wished to have an interview, the masts were struck, lest they should
+discover the boat at a distance, and run off. We soon passed two of
+their huts, which did not seem to have been recently inhabited. The
+longitude 134 degrees 20 minutes 30 seconds W., and variation 51 degrees
+4 minutes 20 seconds E., were observed at the time we halted to
+breakfast, and the latitude 68 degrees 15 minutes 50 seconds N., at
+noon. The Rein-deer mountains on the eastern side, came in view before
+noon. The range on the west was also occasionally visible: we were
+descending between the M'Gillivray and Simpson islands, in a channel
+that did not exceed half a mile in breadth. A fine breeze sprung up
+after noon, of which we took advantage by setting the sails, not having
+seen any recent traces of the Esquimaux. At the extremity of Simpson
+island there is a broad channel, which pours its waters into the one in
+which we were, at a place where the stream is contracted by a small
+island, and a strong rapid is the consequence of this junction. Here we
+found many huts, and other indications of its being a place of resort
+for fishing; here, too, it is supposed Mr. Livingstone and his crew fell
+a sacrifice to the first party of Esquimaux whom they met. Several other
+openings branched off to the eastward; but we continued to follow the
+largest channel, in which the current was very strong, and kept nearly
+parallel to, and about ten miles from, the Rein-deer mountains. Their
+outline, viewed from this distance, appeared very regular, the only
+remarkable parts being some eminences that were tinged with a deep pink
+colour. Sailing by one of the huts at a quick rate, every one's
+attention was arrested at hearing a shrill sound, which was supposed to
+be a human voice; but on landing to ascertain the fact, we could find no
+person, nor any footsteps. We, therefore, continued our journey. As we
+proceeded, the river became more devious in its course, the huts on the
+Esquimaux were now more frequent; none of them, however, seemed to have
+been recently inhabited. The islands were of the same alluvial kind as
+those seen yesterday, and the wood on them equally plentiful and large.
+We stopped to sup at nine, extinguished the fire as soon as we had
+finished, and then retired to sleep in the boat, keeping two men on
+guard.
+
+[Sidenote: Sunday, 14th.] We set off aided by a fresh breeze this
+morning, and at the end of seven miles came to the last of the fir
+trees, in latitude 68 degrees 40 minutes N., the only wood beyond this
+being stunted willows, which became still more dwarfish at thirty miles
+from the mouth of the river. There was plenty of drift-wood on the
+borders of the islands, and some even on the higher parts, at a distance
+from the water; from which it would appear that at certain seasons they
+are inundated. At length the main stream took a turn to the S.S.W.,
+which we followed, though there was a branch northwards, but it seemed
+to be much impeded by mud-banks.[1] At the end of eight miles the river
+again inclined to the north of west, round the southern extremity of
+Halkett island, and there were openings to the north and south, which we
+did not stop to examine. A fog-bank hung over the northern horizon,
+which gave us no little uneasiness, from its strong resemblance to a
+continuous line of ice-blink; and the clouds, from the sun-beams falling
+on them, had the exact appearance of icebergs. However, the sun became
+sufficiently powerful in the afternoon to dissipate the cause of this
+illusion, and relieve us from anxiety on that score. A body of water,
+nearly equal to that we were descending, poured in between the Colville
+and Halkett islands with such force as to cause a very strong ripple at
+the point of junction, which we avoided by keeping close to the shore of
+Langley island. The channel, after the union of these streams, increased
+to a breadth of two miles, preserving a N.N.W. course. We stood twelve
+miles in this direction, and two to the westward, when we were gratified
+by the delightful prospect of the shore suddenly diverging, and a wide
+space of open water to the northward, which we doubted not would prove
+to be the sea. Just at this time a seal made its appearance, and sported
+about the boat as if in confirmation of this opinion. We attempted to
+coast along the shore of Ellice island, but found the water too shallow,
+and that the boat grounded whenever we got out of the channel of the
+river, which was near the western side. The wind and waves were too high
+for us to make any progress in the middle of the stream, and as the
+clouds threatened more boisterous weather, we went to Pitt island to
+encamp. The haze which had hidden all distant objects since five P.M.
+passed off as the sun set, and we gained a very magnificent view of that
+portion of the rocky mountain which I have called after my companion Dr.
+Richardson, and of which the remarkable conical peak, named in honour of
+my friend Dr. Fitton, President of the Geological Society, and the
+Cupola mountain, are the most conspicuous objects. These were
+subsequently found to be near sixty miles distant. The water was
+entirely fresh, and there was no perceptible rise of tide. Our drowsy
+companion Baptiste, when he looked upon the vast expanse of water, for
+the first time, expressed some apprehension that we had passed the
+Forks, and that there was a doubt of our seeing the Indian chief; but he
+was by no means convinced of the fact until the following day, when he
+tasted salt water, and lost sight of the main shore. After our Sunday
+evening's supper, the party assembled in the tent to read prayers, and
+return thanks to the Almighty, for having thus far crowned our labours
+with success.
+
+[Sidenote: Monday, 15th.] In the morning of the fifteenth the wind blew
+a gale, as it had done through the night, and every object was obscured
+by a thick fog. About six A.M. we took advantage of a temporary
+abatement of the wind to cross over to some higher land on the eastern
+side, which we had seen the preceding evening, appearing like islands.
+Owing to the thickness of the fog, we were guided in our course at
+starting solely by the compass. When we reached the channel of the
+river, the gale returned with increased violence, and its direction
+being opposite to the current, such high waves were raised, that the
+boat took in a good deal of water. The fog now cleared away, and the
+three eminences mistaken for islands were ascertained to be conical
+hummocks, rising above the low eastern shore. We pushed for the nearest,
+and landed a short distance from its base at eight A.M. On going to the
+summit of this eminence, in the expectation of obtaining the bearings of
+several distant points, we were a little disappointed to find that only
+the low shores of Pitt Island were visible, extending from S.E. to
+W.N.W., though we were repaid for our visit by observing two moose deer
+quietly browsing on the tops of the willows, a short distance from us.
+Mr. Kendall hastened down to despatch Baptiste in pursuit of them, who
+returned an hour afterwards to inform us that he had wounded one, which
+he had been prevented from following by the loss of his powder-horn. As
+there was no possibility of our getting forward until the gale abated,
+Baptiste and Augustus were sent out to hunt, there being numerous tracks
+of moose and rein-deer in the neighbourhood of the tent. I also
+despatched Mr. Kendall, with two seamen, to walk some distance into the
+interior, and endeavour to clear up the doubt whether we were upon the
+main shore, or upon an island. The astronomical observations obtained at
+the encampment place it in latitude 69 degrees 3 minutes 45 seconds N.,
+longitude 135 degrees 44 minutes 57 seconds W. A tide-pole was put up
+immediately on our landing, and we perceived the water to rise about
+three inches in the course of the forenoon, and to fall the same
+quantity in the evening. The temperature of the air did not exceed
+forty-eight degrees all this day: when in the river, it used to vary
+from 55 degrees to 70 degrees. Mr. Kendall came back in the evening,
+bringing the agreeable intelligence that he had assisted in killing a
+female moose and her calf, and that Augustus had shot a rein-deer. Some
+men were sent to carry the meat to the borders of a river which Mr.
+Kendall had discovered, while the boat went round to its entrance about
+one mile from the encampment. They returned at sunset. Many geese and
+ducks were seen by our hunters. Throughout the whole of Mr. Kendall's
+walk, of twelve or fourteen miles, he saw only the same kind of flat
+land, covered with the dwarf willow and the moose-berry plant, as was
+discovered from the tent, except one small lake, and the river that has
+been mentioned, issuing from it.
+
+[Sidenote: Tuesday, 16th.] The atmosphere was so thick on the morning of
+the 16th as to confine our view to a few yards; we therefore remained at
+the encampment till the sun had sufficient power to remove the fog:
+temperature of the air 39 degrees. Embarking at eleven A.M., we
+continued our course along the shore of Ellice Island, until we found
+its coast trending southward of east. There we landed, and were rejoiced
+at the sea-like appearance to the northward. This point is in latitude
+69 degrees 14 minutes N., longitude 135 degrees 57 minutes W., and forms
+the north-eastern entrance to the main channel of the Mackenzie River,
+which, from Slave Lake to this point, is one thousand and forty-five
+miles according to our survey. An island was now discovered to the
+N.E., looking blue from its distance, towards which the boat was
+immediately directed. The water, which for the last eight miles had been
+very shallow, became gradually deeper, and of a more green colour,
+though still fresh, even when we had entirely lost sight of the eastern
+land. In the middle of the traverse, we were caught by a strong contrary
+wind, against which our crews cheerfully contended for five hours,
+though drenched by the spray, and even by the waves, which came into the
+boat. Unwilling to return without attaining the object of our search,
+when the strength of the rowers was nearly exhausted, as a last
+resource, the sails were set double-reefed, and our excellent boat
+mounted over the waves in the most buoyant manner. An opportune
+alteration of the wind enabled us, in the course of another hour, to
+fetch into smoother water, under the shelter of the island. We then
+pulled across a line of strong ripple which marked the termination of
+the fresh water, that on the seaward side being brackish; and in the
+further progress of three miles to the island, we had the indescribable
+pleasure of finding the water decidedly salt.
+
+The sun was setting as the boat touched the beach, and we hastened to
+the most elevated part of the island, about two hundred and fifty feet
+high, to look around; and never was a prospect more gratifying than that
+which lay open to us. The Rocky Mountains were seen from S.W. to
+W.1/2N.; and from the latter point, round by the north, the sea appeared
+in all its majesty, entirely free from ice, and without any visible
+obstruction to its navigation. Many seals, and black and white whales
+were sporting on its waves; and the whole scene was calculated to excite
+in our minds the most flattering expectations as to our own success, and
+that of our friends in the Hecla and the Fury. There were two groups of
+islands at no great distance; to the one bearing south-east I had the
+pleasure of affixing the name of my excellent friend and companion Mr.
+Kendall, and to that bearing north-east the name of Pelly was given, as
+a tribute justly due to the Governor of the Hudson Bay Company, for his
+earnest endeavours to promote the progress and welfare of the
+Expedition. A similar feeling towards my much esteemed friend Mr. Garry,
+the Deputy Governor of the Company, prompted me to appropriate his name
+to the island on which we stood,--a poor, indeed, but heartfelt
+expression of gratitude, for all his active kindness and indefatigable
+attention to the comfort of myself and my companions.
+
+During our absence the men had pitched the tent on the beach, and I
+caused the silk union-flag to be hoisted, which my deeply-lamented wife
+had made and presented to me, as a parting gift, under the express
+injunction that it was not to be unfurled before the Expedition reached
+the sea. I will not attempt to describe my emotions as it expanded to
+the breeze--however natural, and, for the moment, irresistible, I felt
+that it was my duty to suppress them, and that I had no right, by an
+indulgence of my own sorrows, to cloud the animated countenances of my
+companions. Joining, therefore, with the best grace that I could
+command, in the general excitement, I endeavoured to return with
+corresponding cheerfulness, their warm congratulations on having thus
+planted the British flag on this remote island of the Polar Sea.
+
+Some spirits, which had been saved for the occasion, were issued to the
+men; and with three fervent cheers they drank to the health of our
+beloved monarch, and to the continued success of our enterprize. Mr.
+Kendall and I had also reserved a little of our brandy, in order to
+celebrate this interesting event; but Baptiste, in his delight of
+beholding the sea, had set before us some salt water, which having been
+mixed with the brandy before the mistake was discovered, we were
+reluctantly obliged to forego the intended draught, and to use it in the
+more classical form of a libation poured on the ground.
+
+Baptiste, on discovering that he had actually reached the ocean, stuck
+his feathers in his hat, and exultingly exclaimed, "Now that I am one of
+the _Gens de la mer_, you shall see how active I will be, and how I will
+crow over the _Gens du nord_," the name by which the Athabasca voyagers
+are designated. No fresh water was found on Garry Island until Augustus
+discovered a small lake, the streams that poured down from the cliffs
+being as salt as the sea. The temperature of the sea water was 51
+degrees; the fresh water we had left at five miles from the island 55
+degrees; and that of the air 52 degrees.
+
+Garry Island is about five miles long, by two broad, and seems to be a
+mass of frozen mud, which, in the parts exposed to the air and sun, has
+a black earthy appearance. It is terminated to the north-west by a steep
+cliff, through which protrude, in a highly inclined position, several
+layers of wood-coal, similar to that found in the Mackenzie. There was
+likewise observed a bituminous liquid trickling down in many parts, but
+particularly near the south-west point of the cliff where the bank had
+been broken away, and a hollow cavity was formed. The ravines and
+gullies were still filled with ice, though none was seen on the level
+ground. There were no stones above the sea level; those on the beach
+consisted of granite, greenstone, quartz, and lydian-stone, of a small
+size and completely rounded. The vegetable productions were grasses, a
+few mosses, and some shrubs, the latter in flower. Four foxes were the
+only land animals we saw; and a small hawk, some gulls, dotterels, and
+phaleropes, composed the list of birds. A large medusa was found on the
+beach.
+
+[Sidenote: Wednesday, 17th.] The sky was cloudless on the morning of the
+17th, which enabled us to ascertain the position of our encampment to be
+in latitude 69 degrees 29 minutes N., longitude 135 degrees 41 minutes
+W., and the variation of the magnetic needle to be 51 degrees 42 minutes
+E. We likewise found that it was high water that day at one P.M. with a
+rise and fall of eight inches, but the direction of the flood could not
+be ascertained. I wrote for Captain Parry an account of our progress,
+with such information as he might require, in case he wished to
+communicate either with the Company's Post at Fort Good Hope, or our
+party, and deposited my letter, with many others that I had in charge
+for himself and the officers of the ships, under a pole erected for the
+purpose, on which we left a blue and red flag flying, to attract his
+attention. Another statement of our proceedings was encased in a
+waterproof box, and committed to the sea, a mile to the northward of the
+island. The wind blew strong off the land at the time, and there was a
+gale from the north-west the next day, so that there is every chance of
+the letter having made good way to the eastward.
+
+Having completed the observations, we embarked at two P.M., and pulled
+along the western shore of the island three miles to the sandy spit at
+its south-west end, on which there was a vast quantity of drift-wood
+piled by the action of the waves. From this point we launched forth to
+cross towards the Mackenzie under double-reefed sails, as the wind was
+blowing strong, and the waves high in the offing; but finding the boat
+very stiff and buoyant, the sail was increased, and reaching the eastern
+point of Ellice Island by seven P.M. we encamped at the foot of the
+outermost of the three hummocks mentioned on the 15th of August. As we
+passed along the shore of the island, we disturbed some moose and
+rein-deer, and several geese, cranes, and swans, that were quietly
+feeding near the water. At this period of the year, therefore, there
+would be no lack of food, in this country, for the skilful hunter. In
+the course of the evening I found that a piece of the wood-coal from
+Garry's Island, which I had placed in my pocket, had ignited
+spontaneously, and scorched the metal powder-horn by its side.
+
+Our enterprising precursor, Sir Alexander Mackenzie, has been blamed for
+asserting that he had reached the sea, without having ascertained that
+the water was salt. He, in fact, clearly states that he never did reach
+the salt water. The danger to which his canoe was exposed in venturing
+two or three miles beyond Whale Island, (which lies to the eastward of
+our route,) at a time when the sea was covered with ice to the north, is
+a sufficient reason for his turning back; and we can abundantly testify
+that those frail vessels are totally unfitted to contend against such
+winds and seas as we experienced in advancing beyond the volume of fresh
+water poured out by the Mackenzie. It is probable, therefore, that even
+had the sea been free from ice at the time of his visit, he could not
+have gone far enough to prove its saltness, though the boundless
+horizon, the occurrence of a tide, and the sight of porpoises and
+whales, naturally induced him to say that he had arrived at the ocean.
+The survey of the Mackenzie made on this Expedition, differs very little
+in its outline from that of its discoverer, whose general correctness we
+had often occasion to admire. We had, indeed, to alter the latitude and
+longitude of some of its points, which he most probably laid down from
+magnetic bearings only; and it is proper to remark, that in comparing
+our magnetic bearings with his, throughout the whole course of the
+river, they were found to be about fifteen degrees more easterly; which
+may, therefore, be considered as the amount of increase in variation
+since 1789. In justice to the memory of Mackenzie, I hope the custom of
+calling this the Great River, which is in general use among the traders
+and voyagers, will be discontinued, and that the name of its eminent
+discoverer may be universally adopted.
+
+[Sidenote: Thursday, 18th.] The excursions to Garry Island having made
+us acquainted with the state of the sea to the northward, and having
+shown that, the bank at the mouth of the river being passed, there was
+no visible impediment to a boat's proceeding eastward, I was desirous of
+making further examination in aid of the future operations of the
+Expedition, by going over to the western shore, and of reaching, if
+possible, the foot of the Rocky Mountains. With these intentions we
+embarked at nine A.M., but before we could get half way to the nearest
+part of Pitt Island, a gale of wind came on from N.W., followed by
+violent squalls, which, from the threatening appearance of the clouds,
+and the rapid descent of the thermometer from 68 degrees to 51 degrees,
+seemed likely to be of some continuance. The design was, therefore,
+abandoned, and the boat's head directed towards the entrance of the
+river. It proved, however, no easy task to get into the proper channel;
+and to effect this object the officers and crew had to drag the boat
+half a mile over a bar, while the waves were beating into it with such
+force as to make us apprehensive of its being swamped. As soon as we
+were in deep water, all the sail was set that the boat could bear, and
+at two P.M. we arrived at the narrow part. Here, likewise, the waves
+were high and breaking, and for the purpose of avoiding these and the
+strength of the current, we kept as close to the shore as possible,
+going through the water at seven miles an hour, and about four over the
+current. The wild fowl, warned by the sudden change of the weather, took
+advantage of this fair wind, and hastened away in large flights to the
+southward. At ten P.M., the boat having twice grounded, from our not
+being able to see our way clearly, we halted to sup, and laid down to
+sleep before a good fire. Temperature at 45 degrees.
+
+[Sidenote: Friday, 19th.] When daylight permitted us to distinguish the
+channels, we embarked again, and scudded under the foresail before the
+gale, which this day blew with increased violence. We halted to
+breakfast near some winter habitations of the Esquimaux, which we
+supposed, from the freshness of the wood-shavings, and the implements of
+fishing that were scattered about them, had been abandoned only in the
+preceding spring; and as it was probable they would revisit this spot,
+we fixed to the pole of a tent a present of a kettle, knife, hatchet,
+file, ice-chisel, some beads, and pieces of red and blue cloth. These
+huts were constructed of drift wood, in a similar manner to those which
+will be described in a subsequent part of the narrative. A second
+present was deposited at some other huts, and a third at those below the
+rapids. We imagined that some, if not all, of these would be found by
+the Esquimaux, and would make them acquainted with our visit. By noon we
+had advanced as far as the rapid, which we ascended under sail; and at a
+few miles above this point, owing to the fogginess of the atmosphere, we
+took a more western channel than that by which we descended. This proved
+circuitous, though it ultimately brought us to the former route. It was
+quite dark before we could find a secure place for the boat, and a
+sheltered spot for the tent. The gale continued without abatement, the
+weather was raw and cold, and it was with difficulty we collected some
+sticks to kindle a fire. Temperature 40 degrees.
+
+[Sidenote: Saturday, 20th.] On the 20th the wind was moderate. We
+resumed our journey at four A.M.; past our sleeping-place of the 12th by
+noon, and at sunset encamped at the narrow part of the river where the
+numerous channels commence. Large flights of geese and swans were
+observed passing to the southward all this day. The musquitoes again
+made their appearance, though the temperature was at 45 degrees:
+scarcely any of them had been seen on the descent to the sea.
+
+[Sidenote: Sunday, 21st.] Temperature at day light, on the 21st, 37
+degrees. We commenced our labour under oars, but a strong gale from the
+southward soon rendered this mode of ascending the river ineffectual.
+The men were, therefore, divided into two parties, who towed the boat by
+line, relieving each other at intervals of an hour and a half. At fifty
+minutes past one P.M. we were abreast of the Red River, and there met a
+large party of the lower Loucheux Indians, who had assembled to wait our
+arrival. They welcomed our return with every demonstration of joy, more
+particularly that of Augustus and Baptiste, and at first cheerfully
+assisted the men in towing, but, like Indians in general, they soon
+became tired of this labour, and rather impeded than forwarded our
+progress. So we distributed to each a present; made known as well as
+well as we could by signs, that at our next visit we would purchase
+whatever fish or meat they might collect, and took our leave of them.
+Owing to the detention these men and another party occasioned, we were
+caught by a heavy gale from N.W. before we could reach our encampment at
+the head of the Narrows, and had to pitch the tent in pelting rain.
+Temperature 43 degrees.
+
+[Sidenote: Monday, 22nd.] On the 22nd, we started at four in a thick wet
+fog, which gave place to snow and sleet, and sailed the whole day before
+a strong N.W. wind, much to the annoyance of several Indians who tried
+to keep pace with the boat, by running along the shore: each of them had
+a present of tobacco thrown to him. We encamped near the bottom of
+Cannon-Shot Reach; the weather was extremely cold, and, during the
+night, ice was formed in the kettle. [Sidenote: Tuesday, 23rd.] On the
+next day the wind came contrary from S.E., which obliged us to have
+recourse to the tow-line. The frequent recurrence of sand-banks, to
+avoid which we had either to pull round or cross the river, made this
+day's operations very tedious. In turning round one of the points, we
+came suddenly upon a party of Indians, who had not seen us on our way
+down. Our appearance, therefore, created great alarm; the women and
+children were instantly despatched to the woods, and the men came down
+to the beach with their guns and arrows prepared, and knives drawn; but
+the explanation that Baptiste gave, soon allayed their fears. They were,
+indeed, objects of pity; all their property had been destroyed to
+testify their grief at the death of some of their relations, and the
+bodies of several were still sore from the deep gashes they had
+inflicted on themselves in their demonstrations of sorrow. We
+distributed such useful articles among them as we had remaining, but the
+supply was not at all equal to their necessities. Several of them
+attempted to follow us in their canoes by poling, which they dexterously
+perform by pushing at the same time with a pole or paddle in each hand;
+the boat however, was towed faster than they could ascend the stream,
+and they were soon far behind. We arrived at six P.M. at the Trading
+River, and there met another party of the Loucheux, among whom was the
+woman whose tears had excited our sympathy on the 11th, now in high
+glee, and one of the most importunate for beads. The boy was likewise
+there to whom the tea had been given as a remedy for his fever,
+completely recovered, which was, no doubt, ascribed to the efficacy of
+the medicine. Not choosing to encamp near these people, we crossed the
+river, and towed four hours longer, when we reached Fort Good Hope. Mr.
+Dease, and all his fort, were overjoyed on seeing us again, because the
+Indians had begun to surmise, and in fact had brought a report that we
+had all been massacred by the Esquimaux; and had we been detained
+another week, this statement would have gained entire credence, and, in
+all probability, spread throughout the country.
+
+The Indian whose fish we carried on our way down, happened to be at the
+fort, and he cheerfully communicated, through the interpreter, a female,
+all the information that he or his tribe possessed respecting the mouth
+of the river, the sea-coast, and the Esquimaux, all topics highly
+interesting to us, but we subsequently found that his knowledge of these
+matters was very imperfect. We made known to him our wish that the
+Esquimaux should be informed of our arrival as soon as possible, and
+signified that a very substantial present would be given to any person
+that would carry the intelligence to them in the course of the following
+winter. Mr. Dease pressed this point strongly on his consideration. This
+gentleman, indeed, was anxious to promote our desires in every respect,
+and promised that his utmost exertions should be used to procure a good
+supply of provision for our next summer's voyage, though he represented
+the hunters in this vicinity as unskilful and inactive, and begged of me
+not to rely too much on his collection. We left in his charge five bags
+of pemmican, and the superfluous stores, to lighten the boats. We
+quitted the fort in the afternoon with a contrary wind, and towed twenty
+miles up the stream before we encamped, though the beach was composed of
+sharp stones, which rendered walking very unpleasant.
+
+The wind being contrary during the four following days, we could only
+ascend the river by using the tracking line. Our crew cheerfully
+performed this tedious service, though three of them had been much
+reduced by dysentery, brought on by previous fatigue, exposure to wet,
+and by their having lived for some time on dried provision. These men,
+however, had gradually been gaining strength since the fresh meat was
+procured on Ellice Island.
+
+On the 25th we came to the aspen, poplar, and larch, in latitude 67
+degrees 10 minutes N., and were not a little surprised to observe the
+change in their foliage within the last fortnight. Their leaves had
+assumed the autumnal tint, and were now fast falling. The wild fowl were
+hastening in large flocks to the south, and every appearance warned us
+that the fine season drew near its close.
+
+[Sidenote: 28th.] In the passage through the rampart defile, several
+families of the Hare Indians were observed encamped on the heights, for
+the purpose of gathering berries which were at this time ripe, and in
+the best flavour. At the first sight of the boat the women and children
+scampered down wherever descent was practicable, to get at their canoes,
+that they might cross over to us, but we travelled so fast that only a
+few could overtake the boat. The Indians who reside near this river,
+from their want of skill in hunting, principally subsist, from spring to
+autumn, on the produce of their fishing nets, and on wild berries. At
+the influx of small streams, or wherever there is any eddy, a net is
+set. In shallow water it is suspended upon sticks planted in a
+semicircle, so as to enclose the mouth of the river, or the sweep of the
+eddy; but where the water is deep, and the shore bold or rocky, two
+stout poles are firmly secured at a short distance from the water's
+edge, the breadth of a net apart, to the ends of which pliable rods are
+fastened, of a length sufficient to hang over the water, and to these
+the net is attached. In the winter these Indians snare hares, which are
+very abundant in this quarter.
+
+[Sidenote: 29th.] On the 29th we arrived at the upper rapids, which were
+scarcely discernible at the time of our descent; but from the falling of
+the water since that time, there was a dry sand-bank of considerable
+extent in the centre, and the waters on each side of it were broken and
+covered with foam. Augustus being tired with tracking, had wandered from
+us to the extremity of this bank, from whence he could not be extricated
+without great hazard, unless by making him return to the bottom of the
+rapid. As this, however, would have compelled the poor fellow to pass
+the night upon the sand-bank, Mr. Kendall undertook to bring him off,
+by running with the current to the point at the commencement of the
+rapids, which he effected in a masterly manner, although the boat struck
+twice, and was in considerable danger from the violence of the eddies.
+
+We found, at the place of our encampment, a solitary old woman, sitting
+by a small fire, who seemed somewhat alarmed at her visitors, until she
+was joined, after dark, by her husband and son. As soon as the man
+understood from our signs that we were desirous of having some fish for
+supper, he instantly embarked to examine his nets; but as they proved to
+be empty, the woman generously dragged a pike out of a bundle on which
+she was sitting, and presented it to us, though it was evidently
+reserved for their own meal. In return we furnished them with a more
+substantial supper, and made them some useful presents. The weather was
+extremely sultry throughout this day; at two P.M. the thermometer stood
+in the shade at 66 degrees, and at 76 degrees when exposed to the sun.
+The refraction of the atmosphere, which we had often remarked to be
+unusually great since we had entered the Mackenzie, was this day
+particularly powerful. The mountains were distorted into the most
+extraordinary shapes, and the banks of the river, which we knew to be
+only from thirty to sixty feet high, appeared to have such an elevation,
+that it would have been impossible for us to recognise the land. The air
+became cooler in the evening, and the atmosphere less refractive. Soon
+after sunset the objects appeared in their proper form, and we enjoyed
+the prospect of the delightful mountain scenery that distinguishes this
+rapid.
+
+[Sidenote: Tuesday, 30th.] Favoured by a N.W. gale, we made great
+progress on the 30th. The temperature of the air varied in the course of
+the day from 62 degrees to 41 degrees. The brulôts and sand-flies were
+very teazing wherever we landed; but these, unlike the musquitoes,
+disappear with the sun.
+
+The upper parts of the Rocky Mountains on the western side of the river
+were, at this time, covered with snow, but not those of the eastern
+side, which are, probably, less elevated than the former. We had no
+opportunity of ascertaining their height, though we conjectured that the
+loftiest did not exceed two thousand feet, as it was free from snow in
+the early part of August.
+
+[Sidenote: September, 1st.] At sunset this evening we quitted the muddy
+waters of the Mackenzie, and entered the clear stream that flows from
+the Great Bear Lake; but owing to the shallowness of the water near its
+mouth, and the beach being a mere collection of stones, we had to grope
+our way long after dark in search of a place for an encampment,
+stumbling and falling at every step. At length we espied a light about a
+mile further up the river on the opposite shore; we, therefore, crossed
+over, at the expense of some heavy blows to the boat, and tracked along
+the base of a steep bank, until we reached the fire. There we found a
+Canadian and two Indian boys who had been sent from Bear Lake three days
+before in a canoe, to procure some white mud from the banks of the
+MacKenzie to decorate our house. This man was the bearer of a letter
+from Lieutenant Back to me, which detailed the proceedings at the Fort.
+
+[Sidenote: Friday, 2nd.] We embarked at daylight, having the canoe in
+company. The weather was cold and raw throughout the day; the
+temperature from 34 degrees to 45 degrees; but the party were kept in
+constant exercise, either in tracking or walking; the steersman and
+bowman only being required in the boat. Except where the river was
+bounded by steep cliffs, the path was pretty good. Its general breadth
+varied from three hundred to five hundred yards, and its banks were
+tolerably well wooded, but the trees were small.
+
+[Sidenote: Saturday, 3rd.] This morning the ground was firmly frozen,
+and the thermometer stood at 28 degrees, when we commenced our
+operations. Early in the afternoon we arrived at the lower part of the
+mountain, and which we had kept in view this day, and the greater part
+of the preceding. As we had now to ascend a succession of rapids for
+fifteen miles, and two of our crew were lame, I directed the canoe to be
+laid up on the shore, and took the Canadian and the boys to assist at
+the tow-line. We had not advanced more than two miles before we met with
+an accident that was likely to have been attended with serious
+consequences: in the act of hauling round a projecting point, and in the
+strength of the current, the tow-line broke, and the boat was driven
+with great force against a large stone at some distance from the shore,
+having deep water on every side. There it lay with the broadside exposed
+to the whole pressure of the current, beating violently against the
+stone; and from this situation it could not have been extricated, had
+not Gustavus Aird, the strongest man of the party, ventured to wade into
+the river at the imminent risque of being swept off his feet, until he
+could catch the rope that was thrown to him from the boat. As soon as it
+was dragged to the shore, we found that part of the keel was gone, and
+the remainder much twisted, and all the fastenings of the lowest plank
+were loosened. The carpenter set to work to repair this mischief in the
+best manner he could with the materials he had, and before night the
+boat was again launched. The leaks, however, could not be quite stopped,
+and in our further progress one of the men was constantly employed
+baling out the water.
+
+[Sidenote: Sunday, 4th.] The next day's operations were tedious and
+hazardous as long as the rapids continued. The men had to walk with the
+tow-line along a narrow ledge that jutted out from the base of a steep
+rocky cliff, which was very slippery from the rain that had fallen in
+the night: a false step might have proved fatal; and we rejoiced when,
+having passed the rapids, we found earthy banks and a better path. The
+services of Augustus and the Indian lads being no longer required, I
+despatched them to the Fort, to apprize the party there of our approach.
+
+We had a severe frost this night: at daylight in the morning the
+thermometer was down to 20 degrees, and a raw fog contributed to make
+the weather very cold and comfortless. The sun shone forth about eleven,
+and soon dispersed the fog, and then the temperature gradually rose to
+54 degrees.
+
+[Sidenote: Monday, 5th.] At four P.M. we arrived at the foot of the
+upper rapid, and in two hours afterwards entered the Great Bear Lake,
+and reached the house at seven. Dr. Richardson having returned from his
+voyage to the northern part of the lake, the members of the Expedition
+were now, for the first time, all assembled. We heartily congratulated
+each other on this circumstance, and also on the prospect of being
+snugly settled in our winter-quarters before the severe weather. Dr.
+Richardson had surveyed the Bear Lake to the influx of Dease's River,
+near its N.E. termination, at which point it is nearest to the
+Coppermine River. He fixed upon the first rapid in Dease River as the
+best point to which the eastern detachment of the Expedition could
+direct its steps, on its return from the mouth of the Coppermine River
+the following season. The rapid was, by observation, in latitude 66
+degrees 53 minutes N., and longitude 118 degrees 35 minutes W., and the
+variation of the magnetic needle there, was 47 degrees 29 minutes E.
+
+THE FOLLOWING TABLE CONTAINS THE DISTANCES TRAVELLED BY THE EXPEDITION
+DURING THE SUMMER OF 1825.
+
+  Principal Places.                                       Statute Miles.
+  ----------------------------------------------------------------------
+  From New York to Penetanguishene, by the route we travelled        760
+    Lake Huron                                                       250
+    Lake Superior                                                    406
+  From Fort William to Cumberland House                             1018
+    Cumberland House to Fort Chipewyan                               840
+    Chipewyan to Fort Resolution, Slave Lake                         240
+    Fort Resolution to the commencement of the Mackenzie             135
+    Head of the Mackenzie to Fort Simpson                            103
+    Fort Simpson to Bear Lake River                                  271
+    Bear Lake River to, and the return from, Garry Island           1206
+  Length of the Bear Lake River to the Fort                           91
+  Dr. Richardson's excursion to the north-east termination of }
+    Bear Lake                                                 }      483
+                                                                    ----
+  Distance travelled                                                5803
+                                                                    ----
+  Number of Miles surveyed                                          2593
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[1] An attentive perusal of Sir Alexander Mackenzie's Narrative leads me
+to the conclusion, that it was this northern branch which that traveller
+pursued in his voyage to Whale Island.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+TRANSACTIONS AT FORT FRANKLIN, 1825-26.
+
+
+Mr. Dease having passed the winter of 1824-25 at the Big Island of
+Mackenzie, arrived here with fifteen Canadian voyagers, Beaulieu, the
+interpreter, and four Chipewyan hunters, on the twenty-seventh of July,
+1825; which, on account of the drifting of the ice, was as soon as he
+could, with safety, ascend the Bear Lake River. Several of the Dog-Rib
+Indians were on the spot, which enabled him to take immediate steps
+towards procuring a supply of dried meat for our winter use, as well as
+of fresh meat for present consumption. It having been ascertained that
+the Rein-deer are most abundant in the north-east quarter of the lake,
+during the months of August and September, a select party of Indians was
+despatched to hunt thereabout, under the direction of the interpreter,
+who took a large canoe for the purpose of bringing home the produce of
+their hunt. Other men were sent to inform the Hare Indians of our wish
+to purchase any meat they might bring to the establishment. Our
+principal subsistence, however, was, to be derived from the water, and
+Mr. Dease was determined in the selection of the spot on which our
+residence was to be erected, by its proximity to that part of the lake
+where the fish had usually been abundant. The place decided upon was the
+site of an old fort belonging to the North-West Company, which had been
+abandoned many years; our buildings being required of a much larger
+size, we derived very little benefit from its materials. The wood in the
+immediate vicinity having been all cut down for fuel by the former
+residents, the party was obliged to convey the requisite timber in rafts
+from a considerable distance, which, of course, occasioned trouble and
+delay. We found, however, on our arrival, all the buildings in a
+habitable state, but wanting many internal arrangements to fit them for
+a comfortable winter residence. They were disposed so as to form three
+sides of a square, the officers' house being in the centre, those for
+the men on the right, with a house for the interpreter's family, and the
+store on the left. A blacksmith's shop and meat store were added, and
+the whole was inclosed by the stockading of the original fort, which we
+found highly serviceable in screening us from the snow-drift and wintry
+blasts. The officers' dwelling measured forty-four feet by twenty-four,
+and contained a hall and four apartments, beside a kitchen. That of the
+men was thirty-six feet by twenty-three, and was divided into three
+rooms. These buildings were placed on a dry sandy bank, about eighty
+yards from the lake, and twenty-five feet above it; at the distance of a
+half a mile in our rear, the ground rose to the height of one hundred
+and fifty feet, and continued in an even ridge, on which, though the
+timber had been felled, we found plenty of small trees for fuel. This
+ridge bounded our view to the north; and to the west, though confined to
+less than two miles, the prospect was pretty, from its embracing a small
+lake, and the mouth of a narrow stream that flowed in at its head. Our
+southern view commanded the south-west arm of Bear Lake, which is here
+four miles wide, and not deeper than from three to five fathoms, except
+in the channel of the river, which conveys its waters to the Mackenzie.
+We had also, in front, the Clark-hill, a mountain about thirty-six miles
+distant, which was always visible in clear weather. When the refraction
+was great, we saw the tops of some other hills, belonging to the range
+that extends from Clark-hill to the rapid in Bear Lake River.
+
+Immediately under the sandy soil on which the house stood, there is a
+bed of tenacious bluish clay, of unknown thickness, which, even in the
+months of August and September, was firmly frozen at the depth of
+twenty-one inches from the surface. No rocks were exposed in any part,
+and wherever the surface had been torn up, a clayey soil appeared. Many
+boulder stones of granite, limestone, sandstone and trap rocks, were
+scattered about the lake, not far from the shore.
+
+The trees at some distance from our fort consisted of black and white
+spruce, and larch, generally small, though a few of the better grown
+measured from four to five feet in girth, and were from fifty to
+fifty-five feet high. Dr. Richardson ascertained, by counting the annual
+rings, that some of them, in a sound state, were upwards of one hundred
+and thirty years old; while others, which were not much greater in size,
+had two hundred and fifty rings, but these were decayed at the heart.
+
+The officers had done me the honour, previous to my arrival, of giving
+the name of Franklin to the fort, which I felt a grateful pleasure in
+retaining at their desire, though I had intended naming it Fort
+Reliance. The number of persons belonging to the establishment amounted
+to fifty: consisting of five officers, including Mr. Dease; nineteen
+British seamen, marines, and voyagers; nine Canadians; two Esquimaux;
+Beaulieu, and four Chipewyan hunters; three women, six children, and
+one Indian lad; besides a few infirm Indians, who required temporary
+support. This party was far too large to gain subsistence by fishing at
+one station only; two houses were, therefore, constructed at four and
+seven miles distance, from the fort, to which parties were sent,
+provided with the necessary fishing implements; and not more than thirty
+persons were left to reside at the principal establishment. From fifteen
+to twenty nets were kept in use, under the superintendence of Pascal
+Coté, an experienced fisherman, who had two assistants. These were
+placed opposite the house, and towards the end of summer, and in autumn,
+they yielded daily from three to eight hundred fish, of the kind called
+"the Herring Salmon of Bear Lake," and occasionally some trout,
+tittameg, and carp. Four Dog-Rib Indians, who were engaged to hunt the
+Rein-deer in the neighbourhood of the fort, from want of skill,
+contributed very little fresh meat to our store. Augustus and Ooligbuck
+employed themselves in the same service, but from not being accustomed
+to hunt in a woody country, they were not more successful.
+
+The consideration of next importance to furnishing the party with food,
+was to provide regular occupation for the men, who had not the resources
+to employ their time which the officers possessed. Accordingly, some
+were appointed to attend exclusively to the fishing nets, others to
+bring home the meat whenever the hunters killed any deer; some were
+stationed to fell wood for fuel, others to convey it to the house, and a
+third set to split it for use. Two of the most expert travellers on
+snow-shoes were kept in nearly constant employment conveying letters to
+and from the posts in the Mackenzie and Slave Lake. As the days
+shortened, it was necessary to find employment during the long evenings,
+for those resident at the house, and a school was, therefore,
+established on three nights of the week, from seven o'clock to nine, for
+their instruction, in reading, writing, and arithmetic; and it was
+attended by most of the British party. They were divided in equal
+portions amongst the officers, whose labour was amply repaid by the
+advancement their pupils made: some of those who began with the
+alphabet, learned to read and write with tolerable correctness. Sunday
+was a day of rest; and, with the exception of two or three of the
+Canadians, the whole party uniformly attended Divine service, morning
+and evening. If, on the other evenings for which no particular
+occupation was appointed, the men felt the time tedious, or if they
+expressed a wish to vary their employments, the hall was at their
+service, to play any game they might choose; and on these occasions they
+were invariably joined by the officers. By thus participating in their
+amusements, the men became more attached to us, at the same time that we
+contributed to their health and cheerfulness. The hearts and feelings of
+the whole party were united into one common desire to make the time pass
+as agreeably as possible to each other, until the return of spring
+should enable them to resume the great object of the Expedition.
+
+The officers found employment in making and registering the
+thermometrical, magnetical, and atmospherical observations, which were
+hourly noted from eight A.M. to midnight; and, in addition to the duties
+which they had in common, each had a peculiar department allotted to
+him.
+
+Lieutenant Back had the superintendence of the men; and the accurate
+drawings which he finished during the winter, from sketches taken on the
+voyage, afford ample proof of his diligence and skill. Dr. Richardson,
+besides the duties of medical officer, which, from the numerous
+applications made by the natives, were not inconsiderable, devoted his
+attention to natural history, as well as to a series of observations on
+the force of the sun's radiation. Mr. Kendall constructed all the charts
+after the data had been recalculated by myself; he also made several
+drawings; and he undertook an interesting series of observations on the
+velocity of sound. To Mr. Dease the charge was committed of whatever
+related to the procuring and issuing of provision, and the entire
+management of the Canadian voyagers and Indians.
+
+Previous to the officers leaving London, Dr. Fitton, President of the
+Geological Society, had the kindness to devote much of his time to their
+instruction in geology; and having furnished them with a portable
+collection for the purpose of reference on the voyage, Dr. Richardson,
+when he had leisure, explained these specimens, weekly, to the party,
+and assisted them in reading on this science, which proved a most
+agreeable and useful recreation to us all.
+
+Some of the preceding remarks refer to a period of our residence later
+than that which I am about to enter upon; but I thought it best to
+insert them here, that the mention of them might not interrupt the
+narrative of occurrences which I shall now resume.
+
+[Sidenote: Thursday, 8th.] On September 8th, two men were sent off to
+Slave Lake, in a canoe, with a despatch, containing an account of our
+proceedings, addressed to His Majesty's Secretary of State for the
+Colonies; and as we expected letters from England, by the way of
+Hudson's Bay, they directed to await their arrival at Slave Lake. There
+was almost constant rain from the 11th to the 14th, which much retarded
+the work going on out of doors, and particularly the construction of an
+observatory, which we were desirous of completing as soon as possible,
+that the magnetical observations might be commenced. We found
+employment, however, in whitewashing and fitting up the interior of the
+different houses. The 15th proving fine, we established a meridian line,
+and ascertained the variation by each of the compasses.
+
+[Sidenote: Tuesday, 20th.] Beaulieu returned with his family, the
+Chipewyan hunters, and some Dog-Ribs, bringing a supply of dried meat,
+rein-deer tongues, and fat, sufficient for a month's consumption, which
+was reserved for use when the fishing should become unproductive. These
+men reported, that at the time they quitted the northern shores of the
+lake, the deer were retiring towards this quarter; which intelligence
+accounted for the Indians having killed four within a day's march from
+the house.
+
+[Sidenote: Friday, 23rd.] The chimney of the last of the buildings being
+completed this morning, the flag-staff erected, and all the men
+assembled, we commemorated these events by the festivities usual on the
+opening of a new establishment in this country. The first part of the
+ceremony was to salute the flag; the men having drawn themselves up in
+line, and the women and children, and all the Indians resident at the
+fort, being disposed in groups by their side, a deputation came to
+solicit the presence of the officers. When we appeared, we found our
+guns ornamented with blue ribbons, and we were requested to advance and
+fire at a piece of money which was fastened to the flag-staff. The men
+then fired two volleys and gave three hearty cheers, after which Wilson
+the piper struck up a lively tune, and placing himself at the head of
+his companions, marched with them round to the entrance of the hall,
+where they drank to His Majesty's health, and to the success of the
+Expedition. In the evening the hall was opened for a dance, which was
+attended by the whole party, dressed in their gayest attire. The dancing
+was kept up with spirit to the music of the violin and bagpipes, until
+daylight.
+
+[Sidenote: Monday, 26th.] These entertainments over, Beaulieu and the
+hunters were despatched to the chase, and they soon added two moose-deer
+to our store.
+
+[Sidenote: Tuesday, 27th.] There had been much rain in the course of the
+preceding week, and the temperature was generally mild, but a fall of
+snow took place on the 27th. Some Dog-Ribs came to the fort on that day
+with the produce of their autumnal hunt, which was very inconsiderable,
+but they rendered good service to us by taking away with them several of
+their relations, who had been subsisting on our bounty for some time.
+After their departure there only remained one man of the tribe, who,
+being afflicted with rheumatic fever, was retained under the care of Dr.
+Richardson. Warm clothing was provided for him, and a comfortable
+leathern lodge was erected for himself and family.
+
+[Sidenote: October, 1st.] The month of October commenced with frost and
+snow, and the party were now furnished with fur caps, leathern mittens
+and trowsers, and the rest of their warm winter-clothing. This day we
+completed the erection of the observatory, and adjusted an instrument to
+the magnetic meridian, for the purpose of observing the variations of
+the needle.
+
+[Sidenote: Tuesday, 11th.] Much snow fell on the night of the 7th, and
+on the 11th the small lake was firmly frozen over, and the ground in the
+same state. All the migratory birds being now gone, except a few ducks,
+which still lingered in the open water of Bear Lake, we considered this
+day to be the first of the winter. It was remarkably clear and fine, and
+we hailed the commencement of this season with a degree of pleasure,
+from its contrast with the wet unsettled weather which marks the close
+of summer. A few clouds passing over the sun's disk, produced an
+instantaneous depression of ten degrees of the mercury in a thermometer
+exposed to the sun's rays. The atmospherical refraction was remarkably
+strong at this time. We had repeated opportunities, in the course of the
+winter, of observing it to be greatest in similar states of the
+atmosphere.
+
+The boats were now secured for the winter in a sheltered place, and
+screened as much as possible from the effects of the wind and snow
+drift, by a strong fence made of boughs and branches.
+
+[Sidenote: Friday, 14th.] We were surprised on the 14th by the arrival
+of two Canadians from Fort Norman, with letters from Governor Simpson,
+and other gentlemen in the southern districts, containing satisfactory
+answers to the requisitions for stores that I had made in my passage
+through the country. We were also pleased to learn that Thomas Matthews,
+the carpenter, whom we had left at Cumberland House, on account of his
+leg being broken, had reached Fort Norman, in the Company's canoe; and I
+felt much indebted to Mr. James Keith, and Mr. Smith, Chief Factors,
+for the care and tenderness with which they had conveyed him through the
+country.
+
+The season at which the ice begins to form, is the most favourable for
+fishing in the lakes of this country, and we then procured from four to
+five hundred daily. Those not required for immediate consumption, were
+hung on a stage to freeze, in which state they keep until the following
+spring. But we could not derive the full advantage from the season,
+because the drift ice, making it unsafe to keep the nets set in Bear
+Lake, they were taken up on the 18th. Near a month elapsed before they
+could be set with safety under the ice; our first attempts resulting in
+the loss of three nets. We procured, however, a few fish from the small
+lake, during this interval, and the rest of our food was supplied from
+the store of dried meat.
+
+[Sidenote: Thursday, 20th.] We were visited on the 20th by a storm of
+snow, which continued, without intermission, for thirty-six hours.
+Although it put an end to the skating, and the games on the ice, which
+had been our evenings' amusement for the preceding week, yet the change
+made every one glad, because the snow was now deep enough for winter
+travelling. We had learned, some days before, that the hunters had
+stored fifteen rein-deer in the woods, and on the 22nd four men were
+despatched with sledges to bring them to the fort.
+
+The first throw off of the dog-sledges for the season never fails to
+attract general attention; accordingly the whole party was collected to
+witness it on this occasion. They set off at full speed, and were soon
+out of sight. From this time dog-sledges were used to drag the fuel,
+which had been hitherto done by the men. We sent a party to cut down
+timber, and saw it into planks, fit for the construction of another
+boat.
+
+[Sidenote: Wednesday, 26th.] On the 26th the thermometer first fell
+below zero, but the month closed with a very calm, mild day. Mr. Kendall
+and I were employed in measuring a geographical mile on the small lake,
+preparatory to a series of observations on the velocity of sound. The
+only ferine companions we now had were a few hardy quadrupeds and birds,
+capable of enduring the winter. The variety of the former was confined
+to wolves, foxes, martens, hares, mice, and a few rein-deer. Of the
+feathered tribe, there were the raven and Canadian crow, some
+snow-birds, wood-peckers, red-caps, crossbeaks, Canada, rock, and willow
+partridges, and a few hawks and owls.
+
+[Sidenote: November, 9th.] Having received information that the Hudson's
+Bay Company intended sending their annual despatch from the Mackenzie
+River to York Factory, by the close of this month, and the ice on Bear
+Lake and the Mackenzie River being, on the 9th, sufficiently strong, we
+forwarded a packet of letters to Fort Norman, and a dog-sledge to convey
+Thomas Matthews to this place. On the 15th the nets were reset under the
+ice, and we were relieved from the necessity of putting the party on
+short allowance. We had the additional pleasure of learning that the
+hunters had killed ten rein-deer. The men returned from Fort Norman on
+the 18th, accompanied by Thomas Matthews, whose leg was yet too weak for
+him to walk more than a short distance.
+
+During the middle, and towards the close of November, parheliæ were
+frequent; the most brilliant appeared on the 27th; it continued as long
+as the sun was above the horizon. The atmosphere was cloudless, and
+apparently free from haze, except just about the sun, which seemed to
+gleam through a fog. The surrounding circle was nearly complete, and
+displayed the prismatic colours vividly; from the centre of the sun's
+disk a beam of bright light extended upwards several degrees beyond the
+circle. The inner radius of the circle measured 21 degrees 34 minutes,
+and the outer 22 degrees 50 minutes. The wind blew fresh all the day
+from E.N.E., and the temperature was 10 degrees. In the evening the moon
+was encircled by two distinct halos; temperature 7 degrees.
+
+[Sidenote: Tuesday, 29th.] This morning the principal leader of the
+Dog-Ribs, and a large party of his tribe, came to the Fort. It is usual
+for Indians, on the first visit to an establishment, to make their
+approach in line, with much formality; but on this occasion our visitors
+showed an unusual degree of caution. Their distrust had originated in a
+very trifling occurrence at the close of our house-warming festivities
+on the 23rd of September. Some of the Canadians having asked Mr. Dease
+if our Highlandmen did not come from the same country with the rest of
+the English party, were told that they were natives of the mountainous
+lands, or _Montagnards_. This name unfortunately being used by the
+voyagers to designate the Dog-Ribs, was considered by the Highlanders to
+be a term of reproach when applied to themselves, and a scuffle ensued.
+Harmony was soon restored by the officers sending the most noisy to bed,
+and next morning the true meaning of the word Montagnard was explained
+to the Highlandmen, and the party set about their usual occupations with
+their wonted good feeling towards each other. Not so with an unlucky
+Dog-Rib, who had been attracted to the scene by hearing the name
+applied by the voyagers to his countrymen bandied about from one to the
+other, and thrusting his head into the crowd had received a blow. This
+at once confirmed all his fears, and he fled to spread a report amongst
+his countrymen that the white people intended to destroy the Indians.
+Although his report was not fully believed, yet it produced the feeling
+of distrust which the Indians manifested on their approach to the house.
+It was entirely removed by the explanation we gave. These Indians having
+brought a quantity of furs for the Hudson's Bay Company, as well as
+dried meat for ourselves, and I having understood from Mr. Dease that it
+would be an accommodation to them if they were permitted to deposit
+their furs at this place, instead of carrying them to Fort Norman, I
+acceded to this suggestion, and directed Mr. Dease to advance from our
+stores the goods required for the purchase of the furs, which were to be
+returned when we should visit that fort in the spring.
+
+An old man belonging to the Company's establishment at Fort Norman
+arrived this day with his wife, to stay some time with us, because the
+supply of provision had failed at that post. We felt much pleasure in
+sharing our means with this aged couple, who were much reduced by their
+late scanty fare.
+
+The close of November was marked by a succession of strong east winds,
+and a mildness of temperature, rare at this season. On the 30th the
+thermometer rose from +18 degrees to 29 degrees above zero, on the
+occurrence of a gale from the north.
+
+[Sidenote: December, 1st.] The first of December being a cloudless day,
+we endeavoured to observe the latitude at noon, but failed, owing to the
+extraordinary atmospherical refraction. [Sidenote: Friday, 2nd.] At
+midnight, on the 2nd, there was a shower of hail, so small that we could
+hardly distinguish it from rain. Dr. Richardson thought he perceived
+lightning. Temperature +22 degrees, calm. On the night of the 4th
+another instance of a sudden increase of temperature from +7 degrees to
+26 degrees was observed, on a north wind succeeding a calm.
+
+The fishery having gradually declined for some days, our nets were
+removed nearer to the entrance of Bear Lake River, where the current
+continued to keep the water open for a considerable space. We then
+procured a daily supply of fish sufficient for the rations of the
+household, as well as the dogs, though our number was now increased by
+the party from the more distant fishery, which had proved unproductive.
+The allowance was seven of the herring salmon to a man per day, and two
+to each dog.
+
+The shortness of the days now precluding the Indians from hunting, many
+came, according to their custom, to spear fish at the head of Bear Lake
+River, and their numbers gradually increased. They were not, however,
+successful, nor diligent, preferring to beg what they could from us, and
+sending their women and children to subsist on the offal of the fish
+used at the fort. To encourage them to greater exertion, I provided them
+with nets, and other fishing materials, but their indolence led them to
+make a very ungrateful return; for on several occasions they emptied our
+nets in the night, and thus not only robbed us of what they took away,
+but, by deranging the nets, deprived us of the whole of that day's
+supply. We never could ascertain the perpetrators of these thefts. The
+blame was invariably thrown on some aged and infirm men, who denied it.
+Notwithstanding the straits to which they became reduced, they could not
+be persuaded to go off to a more productive fishery, until we were
+compelled to withhold all supplies, from fear of starving our own party.
+These Indians showed more indolence, and less regard for truth and
+honesty, than any other tribes with which we had dealings. Their
+sufferings are often extreme, and some of them perish every year from
+famine; although, from the abundance of fish in this country, but slight
+exertion would be required to lay up, at the proper seasons, a stock for
+the whole year.
+
+The difficulty of procuring nourishment frequently induces the women of
+this tribe to destroy their female children. Two pregnant women of the
+party then at the fort, made known their intention of acting on this
+inhuman custom, though Mr. Dease threatened them with our heaviest
+displeasure if they put it into execution: we learned that, after they
+left us, one actually did destroy her child; the infant of the other
+woman proved to be a boy. Infanticide is mentioned by Hearne as a common
+crime amongst the northern Indians, but this was the first instance that
+came under our notice, and I understand it is now very rare amongst the
+Chipewyan tribes;--an improvement in their moral character which may be
+fairly attributed to the influence of the traders resident among them.
+
+[Sidenote: Sunday, 18th.] On the 18th a party of sixteen Hare Indians,
+two Copper Indians, and a Loucheux, arrived with sledges of dried
+rein-deer meat and furs. While the house was in confusion from the
+unpacking of their lading, a melancholy scene took place, which excited
+the warmest sympathy. The wife of one of our Dog-Rib hunters brought her
+only child, a female, for medical advice. As she entered the room it was
+evident that the hand of death was upon it. In the absence of Dr.
+Richardson, who happened to be out, all the remedies were applied that
+were judged likely to be of service; and as soon as he returned, there
+being yet a faint pulsation, other means were tried, but in vain. So
+gentle was its last sigh, that the mother was not at first aware of its
+death, and continued to press the child against her bosom. As soon,
+however, as she perceived that life had fled, she cast herself on the
+floor in agony, heightened by the consciousness of having delayed to
+seek relief till too late, and by apprehension of the anger of her
+husband, who was doatingly attached to the child. The Indians evinced
+their participation in her affliction by silence, and a strong
+expression of pity in their countenances. At the dawn of day the poor
+creature, though almost exhausted by her ceaseless lamentation, carried
+the body across the lake for interment.
+
+[Sidenote: Tuesday, 20th.] The 20th being a very stormy day, we were
+surprised at the arrival of two voyagers from Fort Good Hope, bearers of
+letters from Mr. C. Dease, conveying the gratifying intelligence that
+the Loucheux had seen the Esquimaux since the autumn, and that the
+latter had found the presents which had been left at their huts, and
+would be delighted to welcome the return of the white people to the
+Esquimaux lands next spring.
+
+[Sidenote: Thursday, 22d.] Our constant occupations had made the time
+pass so swiftly, that the shortest day came almost unexpectedly upon us.
+The sun rose this morning, (the 22d,) at 10h 24m, thirteen minutes
+earlier than its appearance was expected from calculation, owing to the
+great refraction. Mr. Kendall and I measured its meridional altitude
+from the lake with two instruments, the one bringing its upper limb to
+the top of the land four miles distant, the elevation of which had been
+ascertained to be eight minutes, and the other to its base, the
+depression of which was two minutes. The mean of both these
+observations, corrected for refraction by the tables in the Nautical
+Almanack, gave a result of 65 degrees 11 minutes 56 seconds N., which
+latitude exactly corresponds with the best observations made in the
+preceding autumn. At 8h 30m P.M. a halo was observed, whose radius
+measured 28 degrees 40 minutes from the moon; and at an equal altitude
+with the latter body there were two paraselenæ, which, as well as the
+moon, were intersected by a luminous circle, having the zenith for its
+centre, and a diameter of 94 degrees 15 minutes. The length of our
+shortest day did not exceed five hours, but the long nights were
+enlivened by most brilliant moon-light, and we had frequent and very
+fine appearances of the Aurora Borealis. The latter phenomenon made some
+of its grandest displays on the 26th of October, the 2d of November,
+and the 7th of December. On all these occasions the disturbed motions of
+the magnetic needle were very remarkable, and a most careful series of
+observations convinced the party that they had a close connexion with
+the direction of the beams of light of which the aurora was composed. My
+observations also led me to conclude that the deviations of the needle
+were, in a certain degree, connected with changes in the weather; for,
+previous to a gale or a snow-storm, the deviations were always
+considerable; but during the continuance of the gale, the needle almost
+invariably remained stationary.
+
+Preparations were made for the celebration of Christmas. The house was
+replastered with mud, all the rooms whitewashed and repainted, and
+Matthews displayed his taste by ornamenting a chandelier with cut paper,
+and trinkets. On the evening of the 24th the Indian hunters' women and
+children were invited to share in a game of snap-dragon, to them an
+entire novelty. It would be as difficult to describe the delight which
+the sport afforded them after they recovered their first surprise, as to
+convey the full effect of the scene. When the candles were extinguished,
+the blue flame of the burning spirits shone on the rude features of our
+native companions, in whose countenances were pourtrayed the eager desire
+of possessing the fruit, and the fear of the penalty. Christmas Day
+falling on a Sunday, the party were regaled with the best fare our
+stores could supply; and on the following evening a dance was given, at
+which were present sixty persons, including the Indians, who sat as
+spectators of the merry scene. Seldom, perhaps, in such a confined space
+as our hall, or in the same number of persons, was there greater variety
+of character, or greater confusion of tongues. The party consisted of
+Englishmen, Highlanders, (who mostly conversed with each other in
+Gaelic,) Canadians, Esquimaux, Chipewyans, Dog-Ribs, Hare Indians, Cree
+women and children, mingled together in perfect harmony. The amusements
+were varied by English, Gaelic, and French songs. After these holidays
+were over, the Dog-Ribs at length yielded to the repeated solicitations
+of Mr. Dease, and removed in a body to a distant part of the lake, where
+they now confessed the fishery was more abundant. As the hunters were
+drawing rations from our store, he despatched them in quest of deer,
+furnishing them also with nets. After which there remained at the
+establishment, only one infirm Indian and his wife.
+
+[Sidenote: January, 1st.] January 1st, 1826. This morning the men called
+in the hall to offer the congratulations of the season to the officers,
+and we afterwards assembled to read divine service. On the evening of
+the 2nd, similar festivities were held to those at Christmas, to welcome
+the new year. The temperature was at -49 degrees on the 1st, which was
+its lowest state during this winter. This severe weather was of short
+continuance, for on the 3rd there was a storm of snow, and the
+thermometer rose to -9 degrees.
+
+[Sidenote: 4th.] Accompanied by Mr. Dease, and Fuller, the carpenter, I
+walked several miles in search of birch-trees fit for the keel and
+timbers of the new boat. We found some that would answer for the latter
+purpose, but none for the keel; we, therefore, substituted pine. The
+general depth of snow in the woody and sheltered parts was two feet.
+[Sidenote: Monday, 16th.] On the 16th, by the return of the two men who
+had been sent to Slave Lake, we had the happiness of receiving a packet
+of letters, which left England in the preceding June. Beside the more
+interesting private communications, our friends had been kind enough to
+forward piles of newspapers, and several periodical publications. The
+'Quarterly Review,' the 'Edinburgh Philosophical Journal,' and a series
+of the 'Literary Gazette,' and the 'Mechanics' Magazine,' were spread
+upon the table, and afforded us the most agreeable amusement, as well as
+never-failing topics for conversation. Could any of our friends have
+dropped in upon us, in the evening, they would have found us discussing
+the events of the by-gone year, with all the earnestness and interest
+which we could have shown had they been the occurrences of the day, and
+depended upon our decision. This valuable packet had nigh been lost on
+its way through the interior, owing to the treachery of an Indian. The
+fellow had undertaken to guide the Canadian servants of the Hudson Bay
+Company, who had it in charge, from York Factory to Cumberland House;
+but supposing, from its being unusual to forward packets at that season,
+that it must contain something of value, he seized an opportunity, when
+the two men had gone a little way from the river side, to steal the
+canoe, with its contents, and cross the river. There were no means of
+pursuit, and the poor men, destitute of food, without a gun, or even the
+means of making a fire, were obliged to march to the nearest
+establishment, through a very rugged and thickly-wooded country. They
+reached it after many days travelling, and much suffering, and as soon
+as they arrived, Mr. Mackintosh, the chief of the department,
+immediately sent off different parties in search of the culprit. They
+did not find him, though they got possession of the packet, which was
+torn open, and the letters scattered upon the ground. I need hardly
+mention that I afterwards remunerated the Canadians for their
+sufferings and good conduct on this occasion.
+
+[Sidenote: Sunday, 22nd.] On the morning of the 22nd we perceived a gray
+wolf crossing the lake, and Augustus and Ooligbuck went in pursuit. The
+speed of the animal, however, so much outstripped theirs, that it cooly
+halted to snap up an unfortunate fox which happened to cross its path,
+and bore it off in triumph. The visits of this animal were repeated for
+three successive days, and it at last became so bold as to steal fish,
+on two occasions, from a sledge which the dogs were accustomed to draw
+home from the nets, without a driver. The dogs were not touched, but
+this was accounted for when the wolf was killed, and found to be a
+female, as Mr. Dease informed us that at this season of the year the
+female wolves never attack the dog.
+
+[Sidenote: February.] The month of February was a very anxious period of
+our winter's residence. The produce of the nets and fishing lines had
+been gradually diminishing during January, until the supply did not
+afford more than three or four of the small herrings per man; and none
+could be furnished to the dogs. The stock of dried meat was expended,
+and serious apprehensions were entertained of the party's suffering from
+want of food. The fish too, from being out of season, afforded very
+little nourishment, and frequent indisposition was the consequence with
+us all. Three of the stoutest men with whom this diet particularly
+disagreed, suffered very much from diarrhoea. It became, therefore,
+necessary to draw upon the stores of provision which had been set apart
+for the voyage along the sea-coast, and, on the 6th, we despatched three
+sledges to Fort Norman, for some pemmican, arrow root, and portable
+soup: they were likewise to bring any iron that could be procured from
+that establishment fit for being converted into nails or fastenings for
+the intended boat. This being the last opportunity of the season for
+forwarding letters to the southern department, I wrote to Governor
+Simpson and the council at York Factory, requesting that supplies of
+provisions might be stored for the Expedition, on the route to Canada
+and York Factory, and that the necessary means of conveyance might be
+provided for its return in 1827. All these arrangements requiring to be
+made a year in advance, I included the whole party in the estimate of
+the numbers to be provided for, that there might be no want of
+provision, if the western part of the Expedition should, from any cause,
+be obliged to retrace its steps. By the same conveyance I sent an
+account of our proceedings, with maps and drawings, to be forwarded to
+the Colonial Office.
+
+[Sidenote: Saturday, 4th.] On the 4th of this month, when all were
+heartily tired of short allowance, a report was brought of the traces of
+a moose deer having been seen about twelve miles from the fort. Had the
+days been longer, and a crust formed upon the snow, the hunters would
+have found no great difficulty in running down the animal, but our
+principal hope lay in their getting within shot without "raising
+it,"--the expression used when a deer is scared. Beaulieu being the most
+expert moose-hunter, went out on this occasion, accompanied by two
+others, Landré a Chipewyan lad, and a Dog-Rib hunter. When they arrived
+on the deer's track, they found that it had been raised, probably by the
+Indians who first discovered it; but anxious to procure meat for the
+fort, they commenced the pursuit. From their knowledge of the habits of
+the animal, and of the winding course it takes, they were enabled to
+shorten the distance; but after running four successive days without
+coming in sight, Beaulieu had the misfortune to fall over the stump of a
+tree, and sprain his ankle; the other two hunters being previously tired
+out. When this accident happened, they knew they were near the deer, and
+that it would soon give in, because its footsteps were stained with
+blood. Beaulieu, however, on account of his lameness, returned to the
+house, and his companions came with him. During the chase they
+bivouacked on the snow, and subsisted on a few ptarmigan which they
+killed. Landré after a night's rest, again set out, and was successful
+after two more day's running; not, however, without having nearly lost
+his life, for the moose, on receiving a shot, made a rush at him,
+striking furiously with his fore feet. He had just time to shelter
+himself behind a tree, upon which the animal spent its efforts, until
+his gun was again ready.
+
+Landré's arrival with the joyful intelligence of his success, was hailed
+as the commencement of a season of plenty. When the moose meat was
+brought in, we had not an ounce of provision in store, and it was,
+therefore, most acceptable; although, from the manner in which it was
+hunted down, it proved exceedingly tough. [Sidenote: Friday, 10th.] In
+the evening, to increase our satisfaction, an Indian arrived with the
+information that the fish were plentiful at the station to which the
+Dog-Ribs had removed, and likewise that the hunters belonging to the
+fort had killed some rein-deer near their lodges. We immediately
+equipped four men with nets and lines, and sent them back with the
+Indian, giving them directions to report whether more persons could gain
+subsistence there. Their report, a few days afterwards, being
+favourable, four more men were despatched thither. They sent us some
+tittameg, weighing from six to eight pounds, which were the more
+acceptable, because none of that kind had been taken in our nets since
+the lake had been frozen over. By the time the moose was finished, the
+men came back from Fort Norman, with three bags of pemmican, which
+enabled us to continue the daily issue of rations, though the fare was
+still scanty.
+
+[Sidenote: Saturday, 25th] On the 25th, Beaulieu, accompanied by two
+men, went off in one direction, and the Dog-Rib hunters in another, in
+search of deer. Both parties were successful. From the former we
+received a summons, after four days' absence, to send sledges for meat,
+but not so from the Dog-Ribs, for they, to compensate for their long
+abstinence, consumed almost all the meat, and gorged themselves to such
+a degree, that they were unable to move, and became quite ill. From this
+period we had a sufficient supply of provision, because the fisheries
+improved, and we received deer from time to time. The men who had been
+indisposed gained strength, from the increased quantity, and amended
+quality, of their food; and we had also the gratification of seeing the
+dogs daily fatten, amidst the general plenty. The conduct of the men
+during the season of scarcity was beyond all praise; and the following
+anecdote is worthy of record, as displaying the excellent feeling of a
+British seaman, and as speaking the sentiments of the whole party.
+Talking with Robert Spinks as to the difference of his present food,
+from that to which he had been accustomed on board ship, I said I was
+glad the necessity was over of keeping them on short allowance. "Why,
+sir," said he, "we never minded about the short allowance, but were
+fearful of having to use the pemmican intended for next summer; we only
+care about the next voyage, and shall all be glad when the spring comes,
+that we may set off; besides, at the worst time, we could always spare a
+fish for each of our dogs." During the period of short allowance, the
+three dogs under the charge of this man were kept in better condition
+than any of the others.
+
+We now called the men home from the nearest fishery, and set their nets
+near the Bear Lake River, but the men at the distant station with the
+Indians were kept there, and occasionally supplied the fort with fine
+tittameg and trout. The otters did considerable mischief to our nets at
+this time; six of these animals were seen in one day.
+
+Many parheliæ were observed this month. On the 14th, at forty-five
+minutes after nine A.M., the arched form of the clouds, and the
+appearance of a collection of rays projected from the sun's disk in the
+shape of a fan, strongly resembled the coruscations of the aurora. The
+atmosphere was misty; temperature in the shade +8 degrees 5 minutes; and
+when the thermometer with a blackened bulb was exposed to the sun's
+rays, it rose to +43 degrees. The magnetic needle, at nine A.M., was
+perceived to have made a greater deviation to the westward than usual at
+that hour, and I imagine that the cause of this increase probably arose
+from the atmosphere being then in a state of electricity, similar to
+that in which it is when the aurora appears in hazy weather; on which
+occasions we have observed that its coruscations have the strongest
+effect in causing aberrations of the needle. A violent gale from the
+north-west commenced on the 26th, and lasted, without intermission, for
+thirty-six hours.
+
+[Sidenote: March, 1st.] The early part of this month was marked by a
+succession of gales from the N.W., with a few intervals of moderate
+weather, in which the wind came from the east, and was attended by a
+clearer atmosphere than usually accompanies easterly winds in the colder
+months. We observed, with pleasure, on the 7th, that the sun had
+sufficient power to soften the snow in exposed places, and to form
+icicles from the roofs which had a southern aspect, but the return of
+strong winds from the W.N.W. brought back severe weather. [Sidenote:
+Saturday, 11th.] On the 11th there was a violent gust of wind, which, in
+its passage over the lake, gathered up the snow in a column, similar to
+that of a waterspout. Dr. Richardson made an excursion for the purpose
+of examining the rocks to the north of the establishment. He returned
+after two days, the snow being too deep for him to obtain specimens. The
+description he gave of a view from an eminence nine miles behind the
+fort, induced Lieutenant Back and me to visit the spot, and we were
+amply repaid for the walk. The view embraced the mountains on the
+borders of the Mackenzie to the west, a considerable portion of Bear
+Lake River, with the mountains near its rapids, Clark's Hill to the
+south, and the range of elevated land stretching to the east till they
+were lost in the distance. To the N.E. there appeared several small
+lakes, and the view was terminated by a portion of Bear Lake.
+
+[Sidenote: Tuesday, 21st.] The Chipewyan hunters who had been absent
+since Christmas, returned to us with their families, and brought with
+them a Dog-Rib girl, about twelve years old, who had been deserted by
+her tribe. When they found her, she was in the last stage of weakness,
+from famine, sitting by the expiring embers of a fire, and but for their
+timely appearance, death must soon have ended her sufferings. They fed
+and clothed her, and waited until she gained strength to accompany them.
+The wretches who had abandoned the poor creature, were on their way to a
+fishing station, which they knew to be very productive, and not above a
+day's march distant. She was unable to keep the pace at which they chose
+to proceed, and having no near relation but an aged aunt, who could not
+assist her, they left her at an encampment without any food. The hunters
+met this party of Indians about a month afterwards, when they were
+living in abundance. The girl, by that time, had perfectly recovered her
+strength, and they desired that she should be restored to them, but the
+hunters firmly resisted their importunity, and one of them adopted her
+as his own child. It is singular that she was the only female of the
+tribe that could be called good-looking. Her Indian name was
+Aton-larree, which the interpreter translated, Burnt-weed. Lieutenant
+Back made a sketch of her, in the dress which the hunter's wife gave to
+her on their first meeting. When the Indians came to the fort, I took
+the first opportunity of their being assembled in the hall, to send for
+the hunters and their wives, and to reward them by a substantial present
+of clothing and ammunition. I also gave to them some neat steel
+instruments, consisting of gimblets, and other useful articles, which
+they were desired to preserve, and show to other Indians, as a testimony
+of our approbation of their humanity. A present was also bestowed upon
+the girl, and then the Dog-Ribs were addressed as to their unfeeling
+conduct towards her. They listened quietly, and merely stated her
+weakness as the cause. There is little doubt but that the transactions
+of this day were canvassed afterwards, and it is to be hoped that the
+knowledge of our sentiments gaining circulation, may induce a
+discontinuance of their inhuman practices.
+
+[Sidenote: Wednesday, 22nd.] By the men who had conveyed our last packet
+to Fort Simpson, we received intelligence that some Chipewyans had
+brought information to the Athabasca and Slave Lakes, of their having
+seen many indications of a party of white people on the sea coast
+eastward of the Coppermine River. The report stated, that they had
+found, in the preceding autumn, on the borders of a river near the
+sea-coast, a sawpit, some saws, and axes, and a store of deer's meat.
+There was snow on the ground, and the footsteps of the party appeared
+recent. We concluded from these statements, that Captain Parry had laid
+up his ships in the vicinity of Bathurst's Inlet, and sent
+hunting-parties up the river to augment his stock of provision. I
+therefore despatched two men with letters to Mr. M'Vicar, at Slave Lake,
+containing a series of questions, that the matter might be thoroughly
+investigated, and requested him to transmit the answers to the
+Admiralty. I likewise begged of him immediately to procure a party of
+Indians to go to the spot, and convey a letter from me to Captain Parry,
+in order that they might either be employed as hunters for the ships, or
+carry their letters to the nearest establishment for conveyance to
+England. Had the information reached us sooner, so that a party could
+have gone from Bear Lake to the point at which the ships were, and
+returned before the men were wanted, I should have sent to ascertain the
+fact. The idea of the ships being on the northern coast, the prospect of
+their success, and the expectation of the eastern detatchment meeting
+them in the summer, afforded enlivening topics of conversation for
+several days, and on the day the intelligence came, we celebrated its
+arrival with a bowl of punch. The health of Captain Parry, and his
+party, as well as that of Captain Beechey, was drank with enthusiasm.
+
+[Sidenote: Thursday, 23rd.] We obtained observations for the time, from
+which it appeared that the chronometer, No. 1733, generously lent to the
+Expedition by my friend the late Mr. Moore, had only varied its rate two
+hundredths of a second, since the 3rd of November. I had worn it next my
+skin, suspended round my neck, the whole time; and, consequently, it was
+not exposed to much variation of temperature.
+
+After the middle of this month the N.W. winds gave place to a succession
+of easterly breezes; whenever these prevailed, we observed the
+terrestrial refraction was much increased; double refraction of the land
+was not unfrequent, and twice the mist arising from the open water,
+appeared like a wall of ice. When the moon shone, halos, and
+occasionally paraselenæ, were visible; and towards the close of the
+month the coruscations of the aurora were often very brilliant.
+
+During this month I noticed that on several occasions the magnetic
+needle oscillated when I approached it in a dress of waterproof cloth,
+although it remained stationary when others of the party examined it in
+their ordinary garments. The waterproof dress probably acted by exciting
+electricity in the body, although this opinion is rather contradicted by
+the fact of a fur cap, which had been rubbed by the hand until it
+affected the gold leaf electrometer, producing no change in the needle,
+and my approach to the electrometer not causing the gold-leaf to expand.
+
+[Sidenote: April, 6th.] Having failed in an attempt to make charcoal for
+the blacksmith's use at this place, we despatched William Duncan, and
+the blacksmith, to make some at Fort Norman, where birch trees are
+plentiful; and on the 6th of April we were glad to see them return with
+the first load. The carpenters had already prepared the timbers and the
+keel for the new boat, and we were waiting for the coals to get the
+iron-work forward.
+
+[Sidenote: Monday, 10th.] On the 10th Dr. Richardson and Mr. Kendall
+left the fort on snow-shoes, accompanied by an Indian guide, and a man
+driving a dog-sledge with provisions, for the purpose of completing the
+survey of Great Bear Lake, which Dr. Richardson had commenced the
+preceding autumn. The day was remarkably warm; the blackened
+thermometer, exposed to the sun, rose to +90; and we hailed with delight
+a complete thaw. Cheered by the prospect, a spot was cleared of snow,
+the keel of the boat laid down, and that there might be no delay, all
+the sledges we could spare were despatched to fetch the remainder of the
+charcoal from Fort Norman. [Sidenote: Tuesday, 11th.] On the following
+day water was dripping from the roofs, and the flies were active within
+the rooms. The continuance of mild weather for six days caused a rapid
+decay of the snow, but no spots of land became visible. The men returned
+with the charcoal, and from them we learned that the season was more
+backward here than in the vicinity of Fort Norman. In the evening of the
+17th, a telescope was put up in the meridian for finding the rates of
+the chronometers by the transit of Arcturus. [Sidenote: Wednesday,
+19th.] On the 19th, thirty Hare-Indians arrived with sledges, bringing
+their winter's collection of furs for the Hudson Bay Company, and a
+large supply of dried meat for us, which, with the stock already in
+store, put us quite at ease respecting food until the season for our
+departure. The party consisted mostly of young lads, who, very
+good-naturedly, sang and danced for our amusement all the evening. They
+also gave us specimens of the dances in use among the Loucheux, which
+were more graceful than their own. The tune they sung to the
+Medicine-dance of the Loucheux, struck me as being soft and pretty. The
+ludicrous attitudes and grotesque figures of the dancers, as they
+wheeled in a circle, shaking the knives and feathers which they had
+between their fingers were happily sketched by Lieutenant Back.
+
+As the fish had withdrawn from the open water at the commencement of the
+fine weather, the nets were brought nearer to the house; but we did not
+obtain more than thirty fish daily. This diminution, however, gave us no
+concern, as we had plenty of meat. Shortly afterwards the trout began
+again to take bait, and we caught several of large size. Easterly winds
+prevailed this month, and they blew uninterruptedly from the 21st to the
+last day. A storm, on the 28th and 29th, delayed the carpenters working
+at the boat: the patches of ground which had for the last few days been
+visible, were again covered with snow, and the general aspect was bleak
+and wintry.
+
+Dr. Richardson and Mr. Kendall returned on the 1st of May, and we were
+furnished with the following particulars of their journey. Their course,
+on leaving us, was first directed to the fishery in Mac Vicar's Bay,
+which they reached on the fourth day, and from whence, taking with them
+another sledge-load of provisions and an additional attendant, they
+continued their journey to the bottom of Mac Tavish Bay, the most
+easterly part of the Lake. The reduction in their stock of provisions
+now caused them to commence their return, and they reached the fort
+after an absence of three weeks, during which, in very unfavourable
+weather, they travelled about three hundred and eighty miles. Dr.
+Richardson had sailed four hundred and eighty miles through the lake in
+the autumn, and in the two excursions, five hundred miles of its shores
+were delineated, and the positions of many points established by
+astronomical observations. About twenty miles of the north shore of Mac
+Tavish Bay are the only parts of the Bear Lake remaining unsurveyed.
+[Sidenote: May, 1st.] The following brief description of Bear Lake is
+extracted from Dr. Richardson's Journal:--
+
+"Great Bear Lake is formed by the union of five arms or bays, which were
+named after Messrs. Keith, Smith, Dease, Mac Tavish, and Mac Vicar, of
+the Hudson's Bay Company. The principal feeding-stream, named Dease
+River, rises in the Copper Mountains, and falls into the upper end of
+Dease Bay, which is the most northern part of the lake, and Bear Lake
+River, which conveys the waters of the lake to the Mackenzie, issues
+from Keith Bay, the most southerly arm. Mac Tavish Bay is the most
+easterly portion of the lake, and Smith Bay, which lies opposite to it,
+runs to the westward. Mac Vicar Bay has a southerly direction nearly
+parallel to Keith Bay. The length of the lake, from Dease River to Bear
+Lake River, is about one hundred and seventy-five miles; and its
+breadth, from the bottom of Smith Bay to the bottom of Mac Tavish Bay,
+is one hundred and fifty miles. A range of granite hills skirts the
+bottom of Mac Tavish Bay. The Great Bear Mountain, at whose base some
+bituminous shale cliffs are exposed, is about nine hundred feet high,
+and separates Mac Vicar and Keith Bays; a similar mountain lies betwixt
+Keith and Smith Bays. In Dease Bay, limestone and sandstone are the
+prevailing rocks. The waters of the lake are very clear, and of unknown
+depth; forty-fathoms of line were let down near the shore, in Mac Tavish
+Bay, without reaching the bottom. There is a considerable quantity of
+good wood, principally white spruce, in the vicinity of the lake; but
+there is reason to believe that, before many years elapse, it will
+become scarce, for it is very slow of growth, and the natives every year
+set fire to it in various quarters, and thus destroy it for many miles.
+The finest timber was observed on the west side of Great Bear Lake
+Mountain. There are good fisheries in Dease Bay, and in various other
+quarters of the lake; but the fish taken in Mac Vicar Bay are remarkably
+fine and abundant at all seasons of the year. The principal advantage of
+the site chosen for Fort Franklin, is its vicinity to the Bear Lake
+River, and the great quantity of fish that can be procured at certain
+seasons, although they are small and of inferior quality."
+
+On the 5th of this month, the men being called in from the fishery in
+Mac Vicar Bay, the whole party was once more assembled at the house,
+anxiously looking forward to the arrival of spring. We hailed the
+appearance of swans, on the following day, as a sure sign of its
+approach. A goose was seen on the 7th, two ducks on the 8th, and on the
+9th several gulls were observed in the open water near the Bear Lake
+River. The snow, at this time, was rapidly diminishing from the surface
+of the lake, and there were many spots of ground visible. We, therefore,
+commenced the preparations for the summer's voyage. The seamen were
+employed in repairing the coverings and sails of the boats, as well as
+in refitting their rigging, and occupation was allotted to every person
+in the establishment. These operations requiring the constant
+superintendence of the officers, the observations of the magnetic-needle
+were discontinued. After the middle of the month, we were visited by
+occasional showers of rain, which removed the snow, and produced a
+perceptible decay of the ice.
+
+On the 23d, the ice broke away from the shore of the small lake, and
+also of Bear Lake, in front of the house. Swans and geese were now daily
+passing to the northward; many shots were fired at them, both by the
+Indians and our own party, but only a few were killed. The geese were
+principally of the kind known to naturalists by the name of Canada
+geese, and denominated bustards by the voyagers. Numbers of white geese
+also passed; we saw only two flocks of laughing-geese. The first swallow
+came on the 16th, and, on the following day, many others arrived. A
+variety of ducks, gulls, and many of the small aquatic birds, now
+frequented the marshy borders of the little lake, which afforded
+constant amusement to the sportsmen, and full occupation to Dr.
+Richardson in preparing the skins for specimens.
+
+[Sidenote: Wednesday, 24th.] On the 24th, the musquitoes appeared,
+feeble at first, but, after a few days, they became vigorous and
+tormenting. The first flower, a tussilago, was gathered on the 27th.
+Before the close of the month, several others were in bloom, of which
+the most abundant was the white anemone (_anemone tenella_.) The
+leaf-buds had not yet burst, though just ready to open.
+
+The carpenters had now finished the new boat, which received the name of
+the Reliance. It was constructed of fir, with birch timbers, after the
+model of our largest boat, the Lion, but with a more full bow, and a
+finer run abaft. Its length was about twenty-six feet, and breadth five
+feet eight inches. It was fastened in the same manner as the other
+boats, but with iron instead of copper, and to procure sufficient nails
+we were obliged to cut up all the spare axes, trenches[2], and
+ice-chisels. Being without tar, we substituted strips of waterproof
+canvas, soaked in some caoutchouc varnish, which we had brought out, to
+lay between the seams of the planks; and for paint, we made use of
+resin, procured from the pine-trees, boiled and mixed with grease. The
+other boats were afterwards put in complete repair. The Lion required
+the most, in consequence of the accident in Bear Lake River. The defects
+in the other two principally arose from their having been repaired at
+Cumberland House with the elm that grows in its vicinity, and is very
+spongy. We now substituted white spruce fir, which, when grown in these
+high latitudes, is an excellent wood for boat-building. We were
+surprised to find, that, notwithstanding the many heavy blows these
+boats had received in their passage to this place, there was not a
+timber that required to be changed.
+
+In our bustle, we would gladly have dispensed with the presence of the
+Dog-Ribs, who now visited us in great numbers, without bringing any
+supplies. They continued hanging about the fort, and their daily
+drumming and singing over the sick, the squalling of the children, and
+bawling of the men and women, proved no small annoyance. We were
+pleased, however, at perceiving that the ammunition we had given to them
+in return for meat, had enabled them to provide themselves with
+leathern tents. Their only shelter from the wind, snow, or rain, before
+this season, had been a rude barricade of pine branches. Fortunately,
+for our comfort, they were obliged to remove before the expiration of
+the month to a distant fishery to procure provision.
+
+[Sidenote: June, 1st.] The preparations for the voyage along the coast
+being now in a state of forwardness, my attention was directed to the
+providing for the return of Dr. Richardson's party to this establishment
+in the following autumn, and to the securing means of support for all
+the members of the Expedition at this place, in the event of the western
+party being likewise compelled to return to it. Respecting the first
+point, it was arranged that Beaulieu the interpreter, and four
+Canadians, should quit Fort Franklin on the 6th of August, and proceed
+direct to Dease River with a bateau, and wait there until the 20th of
+September, when, if Dr. Richardson did not appear, they were to come
+back to the fort in canoes, and to leave the boat, with provision and
+other necessaries, for the use of the eastern detachment. All these
+points were explained to Beaulieu, and he not only understood every part
+of the arrangement, but seemed very desirous to perform the important
+duty entrusted to him. I next drew up written instructions for the
+guidance of Mr. Dease, during the absence of the Expedition, directing
+his attention first to the equipment and despatch of Beaulieu on the 6th
+of August, and then to the keeping the establishment well stored with
+provision. He was aware of the probability that the western party would
+meet his Majesty's ship Blossom, and go to Canton in her. But as
+unforeseen circumstances might compel us to winter on the coast, I
+considered it necessary to warn him against inferring, from our not
+returning in the following autumn, that we had reached the Blossom. He
+was, therefore, directed to keep Fort Franklin complete, as to
+provision, until the spring of 1828. Dr. Richardson was likewise
+instructed, before he left the fort in 1827, on his return to England,
+to see that Mr. Dease fully understood my motives for giving these
+orders, and that he was provided with the means of purchasing the
+necessary provision from the Indians.
+
+[Sidenote: Wednesday, 7th.] The long reign of the east wind was at
+length terminated by a fresh N.W. breeze, and the ice yet remaining on
+the small lake soon disappeared, under the softening effects of this
+wind. This lake had been frozen eight months, wanting three days. A
+narrow channel being opened along the western border of Bear Lake, on
+the 14th Dr. Richardson took advantage of it, and went in a small canoe
+with two men to examine the mountains on the borders of Bear Lake River,
+and to collect specimens of the plants that were now in flower,
+intending to rejoin the party at Fort Norman. On the same day, in 1821,
+the former Expedition left Fort Enterprize for the sea.
+
+[Sidenote: Thursday, 15th.] The equipments of the boats being now
+complete, they were launched on the small lake, and tried under oars and
+sails. In the afternoon the men were appointed to their respective
+stations, and furnished with the sky-blue waterproof uniforms, and
+feathers, as well as with the warm clothing which had been provided for
+the voyage. I acquainted them fully with the object of the Expedition,
+and pointed out their various duties. They received these communications
+with satisfaction, were delighted with the prospect of the voyage, and
+expressed their readiness to commence it immediately. Fourteen men,
+including Augustus, were appointed to accompany myself and Lieutenant
+Back, in the Lion and Reliance, the two larger boats; and ten, including
+Ooligbuck, to go with Dr. Richardson and Mr. Kendall, in the Dolphin and
+Union. In order to make up the complement of fourteen for the western
+party, I proposed to receive two volunteers from the Canadian voyagers;
+and to the credit of Canadian enterprise, every man came forward. I
+chose François Felix and Alexis Vivier, because they were the first who
+offered their services, and this too without any stipulation as to
+increase of wages.
+
+Spare blankets, and every thing that could be useful for the voyage, or
+as presents to the Esquimaux, which our stores could furnish, were
+divided between the eastern and western parties, and put up into bales
+of a size convenient for stowage. This interesting day was closed by the
+consumption of a small quantity of rum, reserved for the occasion,
+followed by a merry dance, in which all joined with great glee, in their
+working dresses. On the following Sunday the officers and men assembled
+at Divine service, dressed in their new uniforms; and in addition to the
+ordinary service of the day, the special protection of Providence was
+implored on the enterprise we were about to commence. The guns were
+cleaned the next day, and stowed in the arm chests, which had been made
+to fit the boats. Tuesday and Wednesday were set apart for the officers
+and men to pack their own things. A strong western breeze occurred on
+the 21st, which removed the ice from the front of the house and opened a
+passage to the Bear Lake River. The men were sent with the boats and
+stores to the river in the evening, and were heartily cheered on
+quitting the beach. The officers remained to pack up the charts,
+drawings, and other documents, which were to be left at the fort; and,
+in the event of none of the officers returning, Mr. Dease was directed
+to forward them to England. We quitted the house at half past ten, on
+Thursday morning, leaving Coté, the fisherman, in charge, until Mr.
+Dease should return from Fort Norman. This worthy old man, sharing the
+enthusiasm that animated the whole party, would not allow us to depart
+without giving his hearty, though solitary cheer, which we returned in
+full chorus.
+
+The position of Fort Franklin was determined to be in latitude 65
+degrees 11 minutes 56 seconds N., longitude 123 degrees 12 minutes 44
+seconds W.; variation of the compass 39 degrees 9 minutes E.; dip of the
+needle 82 degrees 58 minutes 15 seconds.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[2] Used by the Indians to break up the beaver lodges.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+Voyage to the Sea--Part from the Eastern Detachment at Point
+Separation--Reach the Mouth of the Mackenzie--Interview and Contest with
+the Esquimaux--Detained by Ice--Meet friendly Esquimaux--Point Sabine.
+
+
+[Sidenote: Thursday, 22nd.] On our arrival at the Bear Lake River, we
+were mortified to find the ice drifting down in large masses, with such
+rapidity as to render embarkation unsafe. The same cause detained us the
+whole of the following day; and as we had brought no more provision from
+the house than sufficient for an uninterrupted passage to Fort Norman,
+we sent for a supply of fish. This was a very sultry day, the
+thermometer in the shade being 71 degrees at noon, and 74 degrees at
+three P.M.
+
+The descent of the ice having ceased at eight in the morning of the
+24th, we embarked. The heavy stores were put into a bateau, manned by
+Canadians, who were experienced in the passage through rapids, and the
+rest of the boats were ordered to follow in its wake, keeping at such a
+distance from each other as to allow of any evolution that might be
+necessary to avoid the stones. The boats struck several times, but
+received no injury. At the foot of the rapid we met a canoe, manned by
+four of our Canadian voyagers, whom Dr. Richardson had sent with some
+letters that had arrived at Fort Norman from the Athabasca Lake; and as
+the services of the men were wanted, they were embarked in the boats,
+and the canoe was left. Shortly afterwards we overtook Beaulieu, who had
+just killed a young moose deer, which afforded the party two substantial
+meals. At this spot, and generally along the river, we found abundance
+of wild onions.
+
+We entered the Mackenzie River at eight in the evening, and the current
+being too strong for us to advance against the stream with oars, we had
+recourse to the tracking line, and travelled all night. It was
+fatiguing, owing to large portions of the banks having been overthrown
+by the disruption of the ice, and from the ground being so soft that the
+men dragging the rope sank up to the knees at every step; but these
+impediments were less regarded than the ceaseless torment of the
+musquitoes. We halted to sup at the spot where Sir A. Mackenzie saw the
+flame rising from the bank in 1789. The precipice was still on fire,
+the smoke issuing through several apertures. Specimens of the coal were
+procured.
+
+[Sidenote: Sunday, 25th.] We reached Fort Norman at noon on the 25th. On
+the following morning the provision and stores which had been left at
+this place were examined, and found to be in excellent order, except the
+powder in one of the magazines, which had become caked from damp. I had
+ordered a supply of iron-work, knives, and beads, for the sea voyage
+from Fort Simpson; they had arrived some days before us, and with our
+stock thus augmented, we were well furnished with presents for the
+natives. The packages being finished on the 27th, the boats received
+their respective ladings, and we were rejoiced to find that each stowed
+her cargo well, and with her crew embarked floated as buoyantly as our
+most sanguine wishes had anticipated. The heavy stores, however, were
+afterwards removed into a bateau that was to be taken to the mouth of
+the river, to prevent the smaller boats from receiving injury in passing
+over the shoals.
+
+We waited one day to make some pounded meat we had brought into
+pemmican. In the mean time the seamen enlarged the foresail of the
+Reliance.
+
+The letters which I received from the Athabasca department informed me
+that the things I had required from the Company in February last, would
+be duly forwarded; they likewise contained a very different version of
+the story which had led us to suppose that Captain Parry was passing the
+winter on the northern coast. We now learned that the Indians had only
+seen some pieces of wood recently cut, and a deer that had been killed
+by an arrow; these things we concluded were done by the Esquimaux. Three
+men from Slave Lake, whom I had sent for to supply the place of our
+Chipewyan hunters, who were very inactive last winter, joined us at this
+place. They were to accompany Mr. Dease and the Canadians to Fort
+Franklin; and that they, as well as the Indians, might have every
+encouragement to exert themselves in procuring provisions during the
+summer, I directed a supply of the goods they were likely to require, to
+be sent from Fort Simpson, as soon as possible. The longitude of Fort
+Norman was observed to be 124 degrees 44 minutes 47 seconds W., its
+latitude 64 degrees 40 minutes 38 seconds N.; variation 39 degrees 57
+minutes 52 seconds E.
+
+[Sidenote: Wednesday, 28th.] Early this morning the boats were laden and
+decorated with their ensigns and pendants, and after breakfast we
+quitted the fort, amidst the hearty cheers of our friends Mr. Dease, Mr.
+Brisbois, and the Canadians, and I am sure carried their best wishes for
+our success. We halted at noon to obtain the latitude, which placed the
+entrance of Bear Lake River in 64 degrees 55 minutes 37 seconds N.; and
+Dr. Richardson took advantage of this delay to visit the mountain at
+that point, but his stay was short, in consequence of a favourable
+breeze springing up. We perceived that the four boats sailed at nearly
+an equal rate in light breezes, but that in strong winds the two larger
+ones had the advantage. When we landed to sup the musquitoes beset us so
+furiously that we hastily despatched the meal and re-embarked, to drive
+under easy sail before the current. They continued, however, to pursue
+us, and deprived us of all rest. On our arrival, next morning, at the
+place of the first rapids, there was scarcely any appearance of broken
+water, and the sand-bank on which Augustus had been so perilously
+situated in the preceding autumn, was entirely covered. This was, of
+course, to be ascribed to the spring floods; the increase of water to
+produce such a change, must have exceeded six feet. In the afternoon we
+were overtaken by a violent thunder-storm, with heavy rain, which made
+us apprehensive for the pemmican, that spoils on being wet. [Sidenote:
+Friday, 30th.] It unfortunately happened that a convenient place for
+spreading out the bags that were injured could not be found, until we
+reached the Hare-Skin River, below the Rampart Defile, which was at nine
+o'clock. They were spread out the next morning, with the other
+perishable parts of the cargo, and we remained until they were dry. We
+embarked at ten, and, aided by a favourable breeze, made good progress
+until six P.M., when the threatening appearance of the clouds induced us
+to put on shore, and we had but just covered the baggage before heavy
+rain fell, that continued throughout the night. Four Hare Indians came
+to the encampment, to whom dried meat and ammunition were given, as they
+were in want of food from being unable to set their nets in the present
+high state of the water. These were the only natives seen since our
+departure from Fort Norman; they informed us, that, in consequence of
+not being able to procure a sufficiency of fish in the Mackenzie at this
+season, their companions had withdrawn to gain their subsistence from
+the small lakes in the interior.
+
+[Sidenote: July, 1st.] We embarked at half past one on the morning of
+the 1st of July. The sultry weather of the preceding day made us now
+feel more keenly the chill of a strong western breeze, and the mist
+which it brought on, about four hours after our departure. This wind
+being contrary to the current, soon raised such high waves that the
+boats took in a great deal of water; and as we made but little progress,
+and were very cold, we landed to kindle a fire, and prepare breakfast;
+after which we continued the voyage to Fort Good Hope, without any of
+the interruptions from sand-banks that we had experienced in the autumn.
+
+On our arrival we were saluted with a discharge of musketry by a large
+party of Loucheux, who had been some time waiting at the fort, with
+their wives and families, for the purpose of seeing us. After a short
+conference with Mr. Bell, the master of the post, we were informed that
+these Indians had lately met a numerous party of Esquimaux at the Red
+River, by appointment, to purchase their furs; and that in consequence
+of a misunderstanding respecting some bargain, a quarrel had ensued
+between them, which fortunately terminated without bloodshed. We could
+not, however, gain any satisfactory account of the movements of the
+Esquimaux. The only answers to our repeated questions on these points
+were, that the Esquimaux came in sixty canoes to Red River, and that
+they supposed them to have gone down the eastern channel, for the
+purpose of fishing near its mouth. The chief, however, informed us that
+he had mentioned our coming to their lands this spring, and that they
+had received the intelligence without comment; but from his not having
+alluded to this communication until the question was pressed upon him,
+and from the manner of his answering our inquiries, I thought it
+doubtful whether such a communication had really been made.
+
+We had been led to expect much information from the Loucheux respecting
+the channels of the river, and the coast on the east and west side near
+its mouth, but we were greatly disappointed. They were ignorant of the
+channel we ought to follow in order to arrive at the western mouth of
+the river; and the only intelligence they gave us respecting the coast
+on that side was, that the Esquimaux represented it to be almost
+constantly beset by ice. They said also that they were unacquainted with
+the tribes who reside to the westward. Several of the party had been
+down the eastern channel, of which they made a rude sketch; and their
+account of the coast on that side was, that, as far as they were
+acquainted with it, it was free from ice during the summer.
+
+Mr. C. Dease, the former master of Fort Good Hope, had retained two of
+the Loucheux to accompany the Expedition until we should meet the
+Esquimaux: they spoke a few words of the language, which they had
+learned during an occasional residence with the tribe that resides on
+the eastern border of the river. But the knowledge of the recent
+transactions at Red River had convinced us that their presence would be
+more likely to irritate than pacify the Esquimaux. We also discovered
+that their sole motive for accompanying us was the desire of trading
+with that people; and further, that they expected we should take their
+families and baggage in the boats. Their services were therefore
+declined; and a compensation was offered to them for their loss of time
+in waiting for us; but having fixed their minds on the gain to be
+derived from us and from the trade with the Esquimaux, they expressed
+great disappointment, and were very intemperate in their language. As I
+was anxious, for the sake of the trade at the post, to leave them no
+room to complain either of us, or of Mr. Dease who had acted for us, I
+spent several hours in debate with them to very little purpose, and at
+last discovered that the whole scene was got up for the purpose of
+obtaining a few more goods. My compliance with their wish rendered them
+quite contented. I afterwards added a present to the principal chief of
+the party, who still expressed a wish to accompany us, but he frankly
+said that if he went, all his young men must go also. They came in the
+evening in great good humour to exhibit their dances in front of our
+tent, a compliment we could well have dispensed with, as we were busy.
+
+Having ascertained that the Esquimaux were likely to be seen in greater
+numbers than had been at first imagined, I increased the stock of
+presents from the store at this place, and exchanged two of our guns,
+which were defective, that the party might have entire confidence in
+their arms. And to provide against the casualty of either or both
+branches of the Expedition having to return this way, I requested Mr.
+Bell to store up as much meat as he could during the summer. We learned
+from this gentleman that the supply of meat at this post was very
+precarious, and that had we not left the five bags of pemmican in the
+autumn, the residents would have been reduced to great distress for food
+during the winter. These bags were now replaced. The arrangements being
+concluded, we spent the greater part, of the night in writing to
+England. I addressed to the Colonial Secretary an account of our
+proceedings up to this time, and I felt happy to be able to state that
+we were equipped with every requisite for the Expedition.
+
+[Sidenote: Sunday, 2nd.] We quitted Fort Good Hope at five on the 2nd.
+In the passage down the river we were visited by several Loucheux, who,
+the instant we appeared, launched their canoes, and came off to welcome
+us. We landed, at their request, to purchase fish; yet, after the
+bargain had been completed, an old woman stepped forward, and would only
+allow of our receiving two fish: she maintained her point, and carried
+off the rest in spite of all remonstrance. The natives were all clothed
+in new leathern dresses, and looked much neater, and in better health,
+than last autumn. Being anxious to reach the Red River, we continued
+rowing against the wind until after midnight. On reaching that place,
+the ground proved too wet for us to encamp; we, therefore, proceeded a
+short distance lower down, and put up under some sandstone cliffs, where
+there was but just room for the tents. As we were now on the borders of
+the Esquimaux territory, we devoted the following morning to cleaning
+the arms; and a gun, dagger, and ammunition, were issued to each person.
+We had no reason, indeed, to apprehend hostility from the Esquimaux,
+after the messages they had sent to Fort Franklin, but vigilance and
+precaution are never to be omitted in intercourse with strange tribes.
+
+[Sidenote: Monday, 3rd.] Embarking at two in the afternoon of the 3rd,
+we soon entered the expansion of the river whence the different channels
+branch off, and steering along the western shore, we came to the head of
+a branch that flowed towards the Rocky Mountain range. Being anxious not
+to take the eastern detachment out of their course, I immediately
+encamped to make the necessary arrangements for the separation of the
+parties. The warm clothing, shoes, and articles for presents, had been
+previously put up in separate packages, but the provisions remained to
+be divided, which was done in due proportion. Twenty-six bags of
+pemmican, and two of grease, were set apart for the Dolphin and Union,
+with a supply of arrow-root, macaroni, flour, and portable soup, making
+in all eighty days' provision, with an allowance for waste. The Lion and
+Reliance received thirty-two bags of pemmican, and two of grease, with
+sufficient arrow-root, &c., to make their supply proportionate to that
+of the eastern party. Provided no accident occurred, neither party could
+be in absolute want for the whole summer, because at two-thirds
+allowance the pemmican could be made to last one hundred days; and we
+had reason to expect to meet with deer occasionally.
+
+In the evening I delivered my instructions to Dr. Richardson; they were
+in substance as follows:--He was to take under his charge Mr. E.N.
+Kendall, and ten men, and proceed in the Dolphin and Union to survey the
+coast between the Mackenzie and Copper-Mine Rivers. On reaching the
+latter river, he was to travel by land to the north-east arm of Great
+Bear Lake, where Beaulieu was under orders to meet him with a boat for
+the conveyance of his party to Fort Franklin. But if he should be so
+much delayed on the coast as to have no prospect of reaching the
+Copper-Mine River by the close of August, or the Bear Lake Portage by
+the 20th of September, he was not to expose himself or his party to risk
+by persevering beyond the 15th or 20th of August, but was to return to
+Fort Franklin by way of the Mackenzie, or by any other route he might
+discover. The only cause of regret I had respecting the equipment of the
+eastern party was my being unable to provide Dr. Richardson with a
+chronometer, the main-springs of two out of the three chronometers
+furnished to us having been broken. I borrowed, however, from Mr. Dease,
+a watch, made by Barraud, to enable Mr. Kendall to obtain the longitude
+by lunar distances. They were likewise provided with that excellent
+instrument Massey's Log; and knowing Mr. Kendall's intimate acquaintance
+with marine surveying, I had no doubt of his being able to make a
+correct survey of the coast. The spot where the above arrangements were
+made, bears the name of Point Separation, and lies in latitude 67
+degrees 38 minutes N., longitude 133 degrees 53 minutes W.
+
+As the parties entertained for each other sentiments of true friendship
+and regard, it will easily be imagined that the evening preceding our
+separation was spent in the most cordial and cheerful manner. We felt
+that we were only separating to be employed on services of equal
+interest; and we looked forward with delight to our next meeting, when,
+after a successful termination, we might recount the incidents of our
+respective voyages. The best supper our means afforded was provided, and
+a bowl of punch crowned the parting feast.
+
+We were joined by an elderly Loucheux, who gave us a better account of
+the eastern and western channels than we had hitherto obtained. "The
+west branch," he said, "would take us to the sea, and flowed the whole
+way at no great distance from the mountains." "The eastern was a good
+channel, and passed close to the hills on that side." He further
+informed us that the Esquimaux were generally to be found on an island
+in the eastern channel, but were seldom seen in the western branch. He
+was, however, unacquainted with the coast, and we found afterwards that
+he knew little about the movements of the Esquimaux.
+
+[Sidenote: Tuesday, 4th.] By six in the morning of the 4th the boats
+were all laden, and ready for departure. It was impossible not to be
+struck with the difference between our present complete state of
+equipment and that on which we had embarked on our former disastrous
+voyage. Instead of a frail bark canoe, and a scanty supply of food, we
+were now about to commence the sea voyage in excellent boats, stored
+with three months' provision. At Dr. Richardson's desire the western
+party embarked first. He and his companions saluted us with three hearty
+cheers, which were warmly returned; and as we were passing round the
+point that was to hide them from our view, we perceived them also
+embarking. Augustus was rather melancholy, as might have been expected,
+on his parting from Ooligbuck, to proceed he knew not whither; but he
+recovered his wonted flow of spirits by the evening.
+
+The western party were distributed as follows:--
+
+LION. RELIANCE.
+
+John Franklin, _Captain R.N._ George Back, _Lieutenant R.N._ William
+Duncan, _Cockswain_. Robert Spinks, _Cockswain_. Thomas Matthews,
+_Carpenter_. Robert Hallom, _Corpl. of Marines_. Gustavus Aird,
+_Bowman_. Charles Mackenzie, _Bowman_. George Wilson, _Marine_.
+Alexander Currie, _Middle Man_. Archibald Stewart, _Soldier_. Robert
+Spence, _Ditto_. Neil Mac Donald, _Voyager_. Alexis Vivier, _Canadian_.
+Augustus, _Esquimaux_. François Felix, _Ditto_.
+
+Our course was directly towards the Rocky Mountain range, till we came
+near the low land that skirts its base; where, following the deepest
+channel, we turned to the northward. I was desirous of coasting the main
+shore, but finding some of the westernmost branches too shallow, we kept
+on the outside of three islands for about twelve miles, when we entered
+the channel that washes the west side of Simpson's Island. It was
+winding, and its breadth seldom exceeded a quarter of a mile. During our
+progress we occasionally caught a glimpse of the Rocky Mountains, which
+was an agreeable relief to the very dull picture that the muddy islands
+in our neighbourhood afforded. We halted to breakfast just before noon,
+and observed the latitude 67 degrees 51 minutes N.
+
+In the afternoon one deer was seen, and many swans and geese; we did not
+fire at them, for fear of alarming any Esquimaux that might be near.
+Encamped at eight P.M., opposite Simpson's Island, in latitude 68
+degrees 13 minutes N., longitude 134 degrees 27 minutes W. The boats
+were secured without discharging the cargoes, and two men were placed on
+guard, to be relieved every two hours.
+
+[Sidenote: Wednesday, 5th.] We set forward at four A.M., with a
+favourable breeze, and made good progress, though the river was very
+winding. At eight we entered a branch that turned to the westward round
+the point of Halkett Island into the channel washing the main shore. We
+soon afterwards arrived at a spot where a large body of Esquimaux had
+been encamped in the spring, and supposing that they might revisit this
+place, a present of an ice-chisel, kettle, and knife, was hung up in a
+conspicuous situation. Soon after we had entered the channel that flows
+by the main shore, we first perceived lop-sticks, or pine trees,
+divested of their lower branches, for the purpose of land-marks, and
+therefore concluded it was much frequented by the Esquimaux. Our course
+was then altered to N.W., and we soon passed the last of the well-wooded
+islands. The spruce fir-trees terminated in latitude 68 degrees 36
+minutes N.; and dwarf willows only grew below this part. A very
+picturesque view was obtained of the Rocky Mountains, and we saw the
+entire outline of their peaked hills, table-land, and quoin shaped
+terminations. Two lofty ranges were fronted by a lower line of
+round-backed hills, in which we perceived the strata to be horizontal,
+and the stone of a yellow colour. A few miles lower down we found hills
+of sand close to the west border of the river. We passed several
+deserted huts, and in one spot saw many chips and pieces of split
+drift-wood, that appeared to have been recently cut. The channel varied
+in breadth from a half to three-quarters of a mile, but, except in the
+stream of the current, the water was so shallow as scarcely to float the
+boats, and its greatest depth did not exceed five feet. We landed at
+eight P.M., on Halkett Island, intending to encamp, but owing to the
+swampiness of the ground the tent could not be pitched. Having made a
+fire and cooked our supper, we retired to sleep under the coverings of
+the boats, which afforded us good shelter from a gale and heavy rain
+that came on before midnight. Latitude 68 degrees 39 minutes N.,
+longitude 135 degrees 35 minutes W.
+
+[Sidenote: Thursday, 6th.] The continuance of stormy weather detained us
+until two P.M. of the 9th, when the rain ceasing, we embarked. After
+passing through the expansion of the river near the west extreme of
+Halkett Island, we turned into the narrower and more winding channel,
+between Colvill Island and the main. A fog coming on at eight P.M. we
+encamped, in latitude 68 degrees 48 minutes N., longitude 136 degrees 4
+minutes W.; temperature of the air 42 degrees, that of the water being
+47 degrees in the middle of the stream. Several of the glaucous gulls
+were seen, and this circumstance, as well as a line of bright cloud to
+the N.W. resembling the ice-blink, convinced us that the sea was not far
+off. A rein-deer appearing near the encampment, two men were sent after
+it, who returned unsuccessful. Augustus obtained a goose for supper.
+Many geese, swans, and ducks, had been seen on the marshy shores of the
+island in the course of the day.
+
+[Sidenote: Friday, 7th.] The night was cold, and at daylight on the 7th
+the thermometer indicated 36 degrees. Embarking at four A.M. we sailed
+down the river for two hours, when our progress was arrested by the
+shallowness of the water. Having endeavoured, without effect, to drag
+the boats over the flat, we remounted the stream to examine an opening
+to the westward, which we had passed. On reaching the opening we found
+the current setting through it into the Mackenzie, by which we knew that
+it could not afford a passage to the sea, but we pulled up it a little
+way, in the hope of obtaining a view over the surrounding low grounds
+from the top of an Esquimaux house which we saw before us. A low fog,
+which had prevailed all the morning, cleared away, and we discovered
+that the stream we had now ascended issued from a chain of lakes lying
+betwixt us and the western hills, which were about six miles distant,
+the whole intervening country between the hills and the Mackenzie being
+flat.
+
+After obtaining an observation for longitude in 136 degrees 19 minutes
+W., and taking the bearing of several remarkable points of the Rocky
+Mountain range, we returned to the Mackenzie, and passing the shallows
+which had before impeded us, by taking one half the boats' cargoes over
+at a time, we came in sight of the mouth of the river. Whilst the crews
+were stowing the boats, I obtained an observation for latitude in 68
+degrees 53 minutes N., and having walked towards the mouth of the river,
+discovered on an island, which formed the east side of the bay into
+which the river opened, a crowd of tents, with many Esquimaux strolling
+amongst them. I instantly hastened to the boats, to make preparations
+for opening a communication with them, agreeably to my instructions. A
+selection of articles for presents and trade being made, the rest of the
+lading was closely covered up; the arms were inspected, and every man
+was directed to keep his gun ready for immediate use. I had previously
+informed Lieutenant Back of my intention of opening the communication
+with the Esquimaux by landing amongst them, accompanied only by
+Augustus; and I now instructed him to keep the boats afloat, and the
+crews with their arms ready to support us in the event of the natives
+proving hostile; but on no account to fire until he was convinced that
+our safety could be secured in no other way. Having received an
+impression from the narratives of different navigators that the
+sacrifices of life which had occurred in their interviews with savages,
+had been generally occasioned by the crews mistaking noise and violent
+gestures for decided hostility, I thought it necessary to explain my
+sentiments on this point to all the men, and peremptorily forbade their
+firing till I set the example, or till they were ordered to do so by
+Lieutenant Back. They were also forbidden to trade with the natives on
+any pretence, and were ordered to leave every thing of that kind to the
+officers.
+
+On quitting the channel of the river we entered into the bay, which was
+about six miles wide, with an unbounded prospect to seaward, and steered
+towards the tents under easy sail, with the ensigns flying. The water
+became shallow as we drew towards the island, and the boats touched the
+ground when about a mile from the beach; we shouted, and made signs to
+the Esquimaux to come off, and then pulled a short way back to await
+their arrival in deeper water. Three canoes instantly put off from the
+shore, and before they could reach us others were launched in such quick
+succession, that the whole space between the island and the boats was
+covered by them. The Esquimaux canoes contain only one person, and are
+named _kaiyacks_; but they have a kind of open boat capable of holding
+six or eight people, which is named _oomiak_. The men alone use the
+kaiyacks, and the oomiaks are allotted to the women and children. We
+endeavoured to count their numbers as they approached, and had proceeded
+as far as seventy-three canoes, and five oomiaks, when the sea became so
+crowded by fresh arrivals, that we could advance no farther in our
+reckoning. The three headmost canoes were paddled by elderly men, who,
+most probably, had been selected to open the communication. They
+advanced towards us with much caution, halting when just within speaking
+distance, until they had been assured of our friendship, and repeatedly
+invited by Augustus to approach and receive the present which I offered
+to them. Augustus next explained to them in detail the purport of our
+visit, and told them that if we succeeded in finding a navigable channel
+for large ships, a trade highly beneficial to them would be opened. They
+were delighted with this intelligence, and repeated it to their
+countrymen, who testified their joy by tossing their hands aloft, and
+raising the most deafening shout of applause I ever heard.
+
+After the first present, I resolved to bestow no more gratuitously, but
+always to exact something, however small, in return; the three elderly
+men readily offered the ornaments they wore in their cheeks, their arms,
+and knives, in exchange for the articles I gave them. Up to this time
+the first three were the only kaiyacks that had ventured near the boats,
+but the natives around us had now increased to two hundred and fifty or
+three hundred persons, and they all became anxious to share in the
+lucrative trade which they saw established, and pressed eagerly upon us,
+offering for sale their bows, arrows, and spears, which they had
+hitherto kept concealed within their canoes. I endeavoured in vain,
+amidst the clamour and bustle of trade, to obtain some information
+respecting the coast, but finding the natives becoming more and more
+importunate and troublesome, I determined to leave them, and, therefore,
+directed the boats' heads to be put to seaward. Notwithstanding the
+forwardness of the Esquimaux, which we attributed solely to the desire
+of a rude people to obtain the novel articles they saw in our
+possession, they had hitherto shown no unfriendly disposition; and when
+we told them of our intention of going to sea, they expressed no desire
+to detain us, but, on the contrary, when the Lion grounded in the act of
+turning, they assisted us in the kindest manner by dragging her round.
+This manoeuvre was not of much advantage to us, for, from the rapid
+ebbing of the tide, both boats lay aground; and the Esquimaux told us,
+through the medium of Augustus, that the whole bay was alike flat, which
+we afterwards found to be correct.
+
+An accident happened at this time, which was productive of unforeseen
+and very annoying consequences. A kaiyack being overset by one of the
+Lion's oars, its owner was plunged into the water with his head in the
+mud, and apparently in danger of being drowned. We instantly extricated
+him from his unpleasant situation, and took him into the boat until the
+water could be thrown out of his kaiyack, and Augustus, seeing him
+shivering with cold, wrapped him up in his own great coat. At first he
+was exceedingly angry, but soon became reconciled to his situation, and
+looking about, discovered that we had many bales, and other articles, in
+the boat, which had been concealed from the people in the kaiyacks, by
+the coverings being carefully spread over all. He soon began to ask for
+every thing he saw, and expressed much displeasure on our refusing to
+comply with his demands; he also, as we afterwards learned, excited the
+cupidity of others by his account of the inexhaustible riches in the
+Lion, and several of the younger men endeavoured to get into both our
+boats, but we resisted all their attempts. Though we had not hitherto
+observed any of them stealing, yet they showed so much desire to obtain
+my flag, that I had it furled and put out of sight, as well as every
+thing else that I thought could prove a temptation to them. They
+continued, however, to press upon us so closely, and made so many
+efforts to get into the boats, that I accepted the offer of two chiefs,
+who said that if they were allowed to come in, they would keep the
+others out. For a time they kept their word, and the crews took
+advantage of the respite thus afforded, to endeavour to force the boats
+towards the river into deeper water. The Reliance floated, but the Lion
+was immoveable, and Lieutenant Back dropping astern again made his boat
+fast to the Lion by a rope. At this time one of the Lion's crew
+perceived that the man whose kaiyack had been upset had a pistol under
+his shirt, and was about to take it from him, but I ordered him to
+desist, as I thought it might have been purchased from the Loucheux. It
+had been, in fact, stolen from Lieutenant Back, and the thief,
+perceiving our attention directed to it, leaped out of the boat, and
+joined his countrymen, carrying with him the great coat which Augustus
+had lent him.
+
+The water had now ebbed so far, that it was not knee deep at the boats,
+and the younger men wading in crowds around us, tried to steal every
+thing within their reach; slyly, however, and with so much dexterity, as
+almost to escape detection. The moment this disposition was manifested,
+I directed the crews not to suffer any one to come alongside, and
+desired Augustus to tell the two chiefs, who still remained seated in
+the Lion, that the noise and confusion occasioned by the crowd around
+the boats greatly impeded our exertions; and that if they would go on
+shore and leave us for the present, we would hereafter return from the
+ship which we expected to meet near this part of the coast, with a more
+abundant supply of goods. They received this communication with much
+apparent satisfaction, and jumping out of the boats repeated the speech
+aloud to their companions. From the general exclamation of "_teyma_,"
+which followed, and from perceiving many of the elderly men retire to a
+distance, I conceived that they acquiesced in the propriety of the
+suggestion, and that they were going away, but I was much deceived. They
+only retired to concert a plan of attack, and returned in a short time
+shouting some words which Augustus could not make out. We soon, however,
+discovered their purport, by two of the three chiefs who were on board
+the Reliance, jumping out, and, with the others who hurried to their
+assistance, dragging her towards the south shore of the river.
+Lieutenant Back desired the chief who remained with him to tell them to
+desist, but he replied by pointing to the beach, and repeating the word
+_teyma_, _teyma_, with a good-natured smile. He said, however, something
+to those who were seated in the canoes that were alongside, on which
+they threw their long knives and arrows into the boat, taking care, in
+so doing, that the handles and feathered ends were turned towards the
+crew, as an indication of pacific intentions.
+
+As soon as I perceived the Reliance moving under the efforts of the
+natives, I directed the Lion's crew to endeavour to follow her, but our
+boat remained fast until the Esquimaux lent their aid and dragged her
+after the Reliance. Two of the most powerful men, jumping on board at
+the same time, seized me by the wrists and forced me to sit between
+them; and as I shook them loose two or three times, a third Esquimaux
+took his station in front to catch my arm whenever I attempted to lift
+my gun, or the broad dagger which hung by my side. The whole way to the
+shore they kept repeating the word "_teyma_," beating gently on my left
+breast with their hands, and pressing mine against their breasts. As we
+neared the beach, two oomiaks, full of women, arrived, and the
+"_teymas_" and vociferation were redoubled. The Reliance was first
+brought to the shore, and the Lion close to her a few seconds
+afterwards. The three men who held me now leaped ashore, and those who
+had remained in their canoes taking them out of the water, carried them
+to a little distance. A numerous party then drawing their knives, and
+stripping themselves to the waist, ran to the Reliance, and having first
+hauled her as far up as they could, began a regular pillage, handing the
+articles to the women, who, ranged in a row behind, quickly conveyed
+them out of sight. Lieutenant Back and his crew strenuously, but
+good-humouredly, resisted the attack, and rescued many things from their
+grasp, but they were overpowered by numbers, and had even some
+difficulty in preserving their arms. One fellow had the audacity to
+snatch Vivier's knife from his breast, and to cut the buttons from his
+coat, whilst three stout Esquimaux surrounded Lieutenant Back with
+uplifted daggers, and were incessant in their demands for whatever
+attracted their attention, especially for the anchor buttons which he
+wore on his waistcoat. In this juncture a young chief coming to his aid,
+drove the assailants away. In their retreat they carried off a writing
+desk and cloak, which the chief rescued, and then seating himself on
+Lieutenant Back's knee, he endeavoured to persuade his countrymen to
+desist by vociferating "_teyma teyma_," and was, indeed, very active in
+saving whatever he could from their depredations. The Lion had hitherto
+been beset by smaller numbers, and her crew, by firmly keeping their
+seats on the cover spread over the cargo, and by beating the natives off
+with the butt-ends of their muskets, had been able to prevent any
+article of importance from being carried away. But as soon as I
+perceived that the work of plunder was going on so actively in the
+Reliance, I went with Augustus to assist in repressing the tumult; and
+our bold and active little interpreter rushed among the crowd on shore,
+and harangued them on their treacherous conduct, until he was actually
+hoarse. In a short time, however, I was summoned back by Duncan, who
+called out to me that the Esquimaux had now commenced in earnest to
+plunder the Lion, and on my return, I found the sides of the boat lined
+with men as thick as they could stand, brandishing their knives in the
+most furious manner, and attempting to seize every thing that was
+moveable; whilst another party was ranged on the outside ready to bear
+away the stolen goods. The Lion's crew still kept their seats, but as it
+was impossible for so small a number to keep off such a formidable and
+determined body, several articles were carried off. Our principal object
+was to prevent the loss of the arms, oars, or masts, or any thing on
+which the continuance of the voyage, or our personal safety, depended.
+Many attempts were made to purloin the box containing the astronomical
+instruments, and Duncan, after thrice rescuing it from their hands, made
+it fast to his leg with a cord, determined that they should drag him
+away also if they took it.
+
+In the whole of this unequal contest, the self-possession of our men was
+not more conspicuous than the coolness with which the Esquimaux received
+the heavy blows dealt to them with the butts of the muskets. But at
+length, irritated at being so often foiled in their attempts, several of
+them jumped on board and forcibly endeavoured to take the daggers and
+shot-belts that were about the men's persons; and I myself was engaged
+with three of them who were trying to disarm me. Lieutenant Back
+perceiving our situation, and fully appreciating my motives in not
+coming to extremities, had the kindness to send to my assistance the
+young chief who had protected him, and who, on his arrival, drove my
+antagonists out of the boat. I then saw that my crew were nearly
+overpowered in the fore part of the boat, and hastening to their aid, I
+fortunately arrived in time to prevent George Wilson from discharging
+the contents of his musket into the body of an Esquimaux. He had
+received a provocation of which I was ignorant until the next day, for
+the fellow had struck at him with a knife, and cut through his coat and
+waistcoat; and it was only after the affray was over that I learned that
+Gustavus Aird, the bowman of the Lion, and three of the Reliance's crew,
+had also narrowly escaped from being wounded, their clothes being cut by
+the blows made at them with knives. No sooner was the bow clear of one
+set of marauders, than another party commenced their operations at the
+stern. My gun was now the object of the struggle, which was beginning to
+assume a more serious complexion, when the whole of the Esquimaux
+suddenly fled, and hid themselves behind the drift timber and canoes on
+the beach. It appears that by the exertions of the crew, the Reliance
+was again afloat, and Lieutenant Back wisely judging that this was the
+proper moment for more active interference, directed his men to level
+their muskets, which had produced that sudden panic. The Lion happily
+floated soon after, and both were retiring from the beach, when the
+Esquimaux having recovered from their consternation, put their kaiyacks
+in the water, and were preparing to follow us; but I desired Augustus to
+say that I would shoot the first man who came within range of our
+muskets, which prevented them.
+
+It was now about eight o'clock in the evening, and we had been engaged
+in this harrassing contest for several hours, yet the only things of
+importance which they had carried off were the mess canteen and kettles,
+a tent, a bale containing blankets and shoes, one of the men's bags, and
+the jib-sails. The other articles they took could well be spared, and
+they would, in fact, have been distributed amongst them, had they
+remained quiet. The place to which the boats were dragged is designated
+by the name of Pillage Point. I cannot sufficiently praise the fortitude
+and obedience of both the boats' crews in abstaining from the use of
+their arms. In the first instance I had been influenced by the desire of
+preventing unnecessary bloodshed, and afterwards, when the critical
+situation of my party might have well warranted me in employing more
+decided means for their defence, I still endeavoured to temporize, being
+convinced that as long as the boats lay aground, and we were beset by
+such numbers, armed with long knives, bows, arrows, and spears, we could
+not use fire-arms to advantage. The howling of the women, and the
+clamour of the men, proved the high excitement to which they had wrought
+themselves; and I am still of opinion that, mingled as we were with
+them, the first blood we had shed would have been instantly revenged by
+the sacrifice of all our lives.
+
+The preceding narrative shows that, bad as the general conduct of the
+Esquimaux was, we had some active friends amongst them; and I was
+particularly desirous of cultivating a good understanding with them, for
+we were as yet ignorant of the state of the ice at sea, and did not know
+how long we should have to remain in their neighbourhood. I was
+determined, however, now to keep them at bay, and to convince them, if
+they made any further attempts to annoy us, that our forbearance had
+proceeded from good-will, and not from the want of power to punish them.
+We had not gone above a quarter of a mile from Pillage Point before the
+boats again took the ground at the distance of one hundred and fifty
+yards from the shore; and having ascertained by the men wading in every
+direction, that there was no deeper water, we made the boats fast side
+by side, and remained in that situation five hours.
+
+Shortly after the boats had been secured, seven or eight of the natives
+walked along the beach, and carrying on a conversation with Augustus,
+invited him to a conference on shore. I was at first very unwilling to
+permit him to go, but the brave little fellow entreated so earnestly
+that I would suffer him to land and reprove the Esquimaux for their
+conduct, that I at length consented, and the more readily, on seeing
+that the young chief who had acted in so friendly a manner was amongst
+the number on the beach. By the time that Augustus reached the shore,
+the number of Esquimaux amounted to forty, and we watched with great
+anxiety the animated conversation he carried on with them. On his return
+he told us that its purport was as follows:--"Your conduct," said he,
+"has been very bad, and unlike that of all other Esquimaux. Some of you
+even stole from me, your countryman, but that I do not mind; I only
+regret that you should have treated in this violent manner the white
+people who came solely to do you kindness. My tribe were in the same
+unhappy state in which you now are, before the white people came to
+Churchill, but at present they are supplied with every thing they need,
+and you see that I am well clothed; I get all that I want, and am very
+comfortable. You cannot expect, after the transactions of this day, that
+these people will ever bring goods to your country again, unless you
+show your contrition by returning the stolen goods. The white people
+love the Esquimaux, and wish to show them the same kindness that they
+bestow upon the Indians: do not deceive yourselves, and suppose that
+they are afraid of you; I tell you they are not, and that it is entirely
+owing to their humanity that many of you were not killed to-day; for
+they have all guns, with which they can destroy you either when near or
+at a distance. I also have a gun, and can assure you that if a white man
+had fallen, I would have been the first to have revenged his death."
+
+The veracity of Augustus was beyond all question with us; such a speech
+delivered in a circle of forty armed men, was a remarkable instance of
+personal courage. We could perceive, by the shouts of applause with
+which they filled the pauses in his harangue, that they assented to his
+arguments, and he told us that they had expressed great sorrow for
+having given us so much cause of offence, and pleaded, in mitigation of
+their conduct, that they had never seen white people before, that every
+thing in our possession was so new to them, and so desirable, that they
+could not resist the temptation of stealing, and begged him to assure us
+that they never would do the like again, for they were anxious to be on
+terms of friendship with us, that they might partake of the benefits
+which his tribe derived from their intercourse with the white people. I
+told Augustus to put their sincerity to the test by desiring them to
+bring back a large kettle and the tent, which they did, together with
+some shoes, having sent for them to the island whither they had been
+conveyed. After this act of restitution, Augustus requested to be
+permitted to join a dance to which they had invited him, and he was, for
+upwards of an hour, engaged in dancing and singing with all his might in
+the midst of a company who were all armed with knives, or bows and
+arrows. He afterwards told us that he was much delighted on finding that
+the words of the song, and the different attitudes of the dances, were
+precisely similar to those used in his own country when a friendly
+meeting took place with strangers. Augustus now learned from them that
+there was a regular ebb and flow of the tide in this bay, and that when
+the sun came round to a particular point there would be water enough to
+float the boats, if we kept along the western shore. This communication
+relieved me from much anxiety, for the water was perfectly fresh, and
+from the flood-tide having passed unperceived whilst we were engaged
+with the Esquimaux, it appeared to us to have been subsiding for the
+preceding twelve hours, which naturally excited doubts of our being able
+to effect a passage to the sea in this direction.
+
+The Esquimaux gradually retired as the night advanced; and when there
+were only a few remaining, two of our men were sent to a fire which they
+had made, to prepare chocolate for the refreshment of the party. Up to
+this period we remained seated in the boats, with our muskets in our
+hands, and keeping a vigilant look out on Augustus, and the natives
+around him. [Sidenote: Saturday, 8th.] As they had foretold, the water
+began to flow about midnight, and by half past one in the morning of the
+8th it was sufficiently deep to allow of our dragging the boats forward
+to a part where they floated. We pulled along the western shore about
+six miles, till the appearance of the sky bespoke the immediate approach
+of a gale; and we had scarcely landed before it came on with violence,
+and attended with so much swell as to compel us to unload the boats and
+drag them up on the beach.
+
+The whole party having been exhausted by the labour and anxiety of the
+preceding twenty-four hours, two men were appointed to keep watch, and
+the rest slept until eleven o'clock in the morning, when we began to
+repair the damage which the sails and rigging had sustained from the
+attempts made by the Esquimaux to cut away the copper thimbles. We were
+thus employed when Lieutenant Back espied, through the haze, the whole
+body of the Esquimaux paddling towards us. Uncertain of the purport of
+their visit, and not choosing to open a conference with so large a body
+in a situation so disadvantageous as our present one, we hastened to
+launch the boats through the surf, and load them with our utmost speed;
+conceiving that when once fairly afloat, we could keep any number at
+bay. We had scarcely pulled into deep water before some of the kaiyacks
+had arrived within speaking distance, and the man in the headmost one,
+holding out a kettle, called aloud that he wished to return it, and that
+the oomiak which was some distance behind, contained the things that had
+been stolen from us, which they were desirous of restoring, and
+receiving in return any present that we might be disposed to give. I did
+not deem it prudent, however, for the sake of the few things in their
+possession which we required, to hazard their whole party collecting
+around us, and, therefore, desired Augustus to tell them to go back; but
+they continued to advance until I fired a ball ahead of the leading
+canoe, which had the desired effect--the whole party veering round,
+except four, who followed us for a little way, and then went back to
+join their companions.
+
+I have been minute in my details of our proceedings with these
+Esquimaux, for the purpose of elucidating the character of the people we
+had to deal with; and I feel that the account would be incomplete
+without the mention, in this place, of some communications made to us in
+the month of August following, which fully explained the motives of
+their conduct. We learned that up to the time that the kaiyack was
+upset, the Esquimaux were actuated by the most friendly feelings towards
+us, but that the fellow whom we had treated so kindly after the
+accident, discovering what the boats contained, proposed to the younger
+men to pillage them. This suggestion was buzzed about, and led to the
+conference which the old men held together when I desired them to go
+away, in which the robbery was decided upon, and a pretty general wish
+was expressed that it should be attended with the total massacre of our
+party. Providentially a few suggested the impropriety of including
+Augustus; and for a reason which could scarcely have been imagined. "If
+we kill him," said they, "no more white people will visit our lands, and
+we shall lose the opportunity of getting a supply of their valuable
+goods; but if we spare him, he can be sent back with a story which we
+shall invent to induce another party of white people to come among us."
+This argument prevailed at the time; but after the interviews with
+Augustus at the dance, they retired to their island, where they were so
+much inflamed by the sight of the valuable articles which they had
+obtained, that they all, without exception, regretted that they had
+allowed us to escape. While in this frame of mind the smoke of our fire
+being discovered, a consultation was immediately held, and a very artful
+plan laid for the destruction of the party, including Augustus, whom
+they conceived to be so firmly attached to us that it was in vain to
+attempt to win him to their cause. They expected to find us on shore;
+but to provide against the boats getting away if we should have
+embarked, they caused some kettles to be fastened conspicuously to the
+leading kaiyack, in order to induce us to stop. The kaiyacks were then
+to be placed in such a position as to hamper the boats, and their owners
+were to keep us in play until the whole party had come up, when the
+attack was to commence. Through the blessing of Providence, their scheme
+was frustrated.
+
+But to resume the narrative of the voyage. The breeze became moderate
+and fair; the sails were set, and we passed along the coast in a W.N.W.
+direction, until eleven in the evening, when we halted on a low island,
+covered with drift wood, to repair the sails, and to put the boats in
+proper order for a sea voyage. [Sidenote: Sunday, 9th.] The continuance
+and increase of the favourable wind urged us to make all possible
+despatch, and at three in the morning of the 9th again embarking, we
+kept in three fathoms water at the distance of two miles from the land.
+After sailing twelve miles, our progress was completely stopped by the
+ice adhering to the shore, and stretching beyond the limits of our view
+to seaward. We could not effect a landing until we had gone back some
+miles, as we had passed a sheet of ice which was fast to the shore; but
+at length a convenient spot being found, the boats were hauled up on the
+beach. We quickly ascended to the top of the bank to look around, and
+from thence had the mortification to perceive that we had just arrived
+in time to witness the first rupture of the ice. The only lane of water
+in the direction of our course was that from which we had been forced to
+retreat: in every other part the sea appeared as firmly frozen as in
+winter; and even close to our encampment the masses of ice were piled up
+to the height of thirty feet. Discouraging as was this prospect, we had
+the consolation to know that our store of provision was sufficiently
+ample to allow of a few days' detention.
+
+The coast in this part consists of black earth, unmixed with stones of
+any kind, and its general elevation is from sixty to eighty feet, though
+in some places it swells into hills of two hundred and fifty feet. A
+level plain, abounding in small lakes, extends from the top of these
+banks to the base of a line of hills which lie in front of the Rocky
+Mountains. The plain was clothed with grass and plants, then in flower,
+specimens of which were collected. We recognised in the nearest range of
+the Rocky Mountains, which I have named after my much-esteemed companion
+Dr. Richardson, the Fitton and the Cupola Mountains, which we had seen
+from Garry Island at the distance of sixty miles. Few patches of snow
+were visible on any part of the range.
+
+Having obtained observations for longitude and variation, we retired to
+bed about eight A.M., but had only just fallen asleep when we were
+roused by the men on guard calling out that a party of Esquimaux were
+close to the tents; and, on going out, we found the whole of our party
+under arms. Three Esquimaux had come upon us unawares, and, in terror at
+seeing so many strangers, they were on the point of discharging their
+arrows, when Augustus's voice arrested them, and by explaining the
+purpose of our arrival, soon calmed their fears. Lieutenant Back and I
+having made each of them a present, and received in return some arrows,
+a very amicable conference followed, which was managed by Augustus with
+equal tact and judgment. It was gratifying to observe our visitors
+jumping for joy as he pointed out the advantages to be derived from an
+intercourse with the white people, to whom they were now introduced for
+the first time. We found that they belonged to a party whose tents were
+pitched about two miles from us; and as they were very desirous that
+their friends might also enjoy the gratification of seeing us, they
+begged that Augustus would return with them to convey the invitation;
+which request was granted at his desire.
+
+Before their departure, marks being set up on the beach one hundred and
+fifty yards in front of the tent, and twice that distance from the
+boats, they were informed that this was the nearest approach which any
+of their party would be permitted to make; and that at this boundary
+only would gifts be made, and barter carried on. Augustus was likewise
+desired to explain to them the destructive power of our guns, and to
+assure them that every person would be shot who should pass the
+prescribed limit. This plan was adopted in all succeeding interviews
+with the Esquimaux. After five hours' absence Augustus returned,
+accompanied by twenty men and two elderly women, who halted at the
+boundary. They had come without bows or arrows, by the desire of
+Augustus, and, following his instruction, each gave Lieutenant Back and
+myself a hearty shake of the hand. We made presents to every one, of
+beads, fish-hooks, awls, and trinkets; and that they might have entire
+confidence in the whole party, our men were furnished with beads to
+present to them. The men were directed to advance singly, and in such a
+manner as to prevent the Esquimaux from counting our number, unless they
+paid the greatest attention, which they were not likely to do while
+their minds were occupied by a succession of novelties.
+
+Our visitors were soon quite at ease, and we were preparing to question
+them respecting the coast, and the time of removal of the ice, when
+Augustus begged that he might put on his gayest dress, and his medals,
+before the conference began. This was the work of a few seconds; but
+when he returned, surprise and delight at his altered appearance and
+numerous ornaments so engaged their minds, that their attention could
+not be drawn to any other subject for the next half hour. "Ah," said an
+old man, taking up his medals, "these must have been made by such people
+as you have been describing, for none that we have seen could do any
+thing like it;" then taking hold of his coat, he asked "what kind of
+animal do these skins which you and the chiefs wear belong to? we have
+none such in our country." The anchor buttons also excited their
+admiration. At length we managed to gain their attention, and were
+informed that, as soon as the wind should blow strong from the land, the
+ice might be expected to remove from the shore, so as to open a passage
+for boats, and that it would remain in the offing until the reappearance
+of the stars. "Further to the westward," they continued, "the ice often
+adheres to the land throughout the summer; and when it does break away,
+it is carried but a short distance to seaward, and is brought back
+whenever a strong wind blows on the coast. If there be any channels in
+these parts, they are unsafe for boats, as the ice is continually
+tossing about." "We wonder, therefore," they said, "that you are not
+provided with sledges and dogs, as our men are, to travel along the
+land, when these interruptions occur." They concluded by warning us not
+to stay to the westward after the stars could be seen, because the
+winds would then blow strong from the sea, and pack the ice on the
+shore. On further inquiry we learned that this party is usually
+employed, during the summer, in catching whales and seals, in the
+vicinity of the Mackenzie, and that they seldom travel to the westward
+beyond a few days' journey. We were, therefore, not much distressed by
+intelligence which we supposed might have originated in exaggerated
+accounts received from others. In the evening Augustus returned with
+them to their tents, and two of the men undertook to fetch a specimen of
+the rock from Mount Fitton, which was distant about twenty miles. The
+following observations were obtained:--Latitude 69 degrees 1 minute 24
+seconds N.; longitude 137 degrees 35 minutes W.; variation 46 degrees 41
+minutes E.; dip 82 degrees 22 minutes.
+
+The party assembled at divine service in the evening. The wind blew in
+violent squalls during the night, which brought such a heavy swell upon
+the ice, that the larger masses near the encampment were broken before
+the morning of the 10th, but there was no change in the main body.
+
+[Sidenote: Monday, 10th.] The Esquimaux revisited us in the morning,
+with their women and children; the party consisted of forty-eight
+persons. They seated themselves as before, in a semicircle, the men
+being in front, and the women behind. Presents were made to those who
+had not before received any; and we afterwards purchased several pairs
+of seal-skin boots, a few pieces of dressed seal-skin, and some
+deer-skin cut and twisted, to be used as cords. Beads, pins, needles,
+and ornamental articles, were most in request by the women, to whom the
+goods principally belonged, but the men were eager to get any thing that
+was made of iron. They were supplied with hatchets, files, ice chisels,
+fire-steels, Indian awls, and fish-hooks. They were very anxious to
+procure knives, but as each was in possession of one, I reserved the few
+which we had for another occasion. The quarter from whence these knives
+were obtained, will appear in a subsequent part of the narrative. It was
+amusing to see the purposes to which they applied the different articles
+given to them; some of the men danced about with a large cod-fish hook
+dangling from the nose, others stuck an awl through the same part, and
+the women immediately decorated their dresses with the ear-rings,
+thimbles, or whatever trinkets they received. There was in the party a
+great proportion of elderly persons, who appeared in excellent health,
+and were very active. The men were stout and robust, and taller than
+Augustus, or than those seen on the east coast by Captain Parry. Their
+cheek-bones were less projecting than the representations given of the
+Esquimaux on the eastern coast, but they had the small eye, and broad
+nose, which ever distinguish that people. Except the young persons, the
+whole party were afflicted with sore eyes, arising from exposure to the
+glare of ice and snow, and two of the old men were nearly blind. They
+wore the hair on the upper lip and chin; the latter, as well as that on
+their head, being permitted to grow long, though in some cases a
+circular spot on the crown of the head was cut bare, like the tonsure of
+the Roman catholic clergy. Every man had pieces of bone or shells thrust
+through the septum of his nose; and holes were pierced on each side of
+the under lip, in which were placed circular pieces of ivory, with a
+large blue bead in the centre, similar to those represented in the
+drawings of the natives on the N.W. coast of America, in Kotzebue's
+Voyage. These ornaments were so much valued, that they declined selling
+them; and when not rich enough to procure beads or ivory, stones and
+pieces of bone were substituted. These perforations are made at the age
+of puberty; and one of the party, who appeared to be about fourteen
+years old, was pointed out, with delight, by his parents, as having to
+undergo the operation in the following year. He was a good-looking boy,
+and we could not fancy his countenance would be much improved by the
+insertion of the bones or stones, which have the effect of depressing
+the under lip, and keeping the mouth open.
+
+Their dress consisted of a jacket of rein-deer skin, with a skirt behind
+and before, and a small hood; breeches of the same material, and boots
+of seal-skin. Their weapons for the chase were bows and arrows, very
+neatly made; the latter being headed with bone or iron; and for fishing,
+spears tipped with bone. They also catch fish with nets and lines. All
+were armed with knives, which they either keep in their hand, or thrust
+up the sleeve of their shirt. They had received from the Loucheux
+Indians some account of the destructive effects of guns. The dress of
+the women differed from that of the men only in their wearing wide
+trowsers, and in the size of their hoods, which do not fit close to the
+head, but are made large, for the purpose of receiving their children.
+These are ornamented with stripes of different coloured skins, and round
+the top is fastened a band of wolf's hair, made to stand erect. Their
+own black hair is very tastefully turned up from behind to the top of
+the head, and tied by strings of white and blue beads, or cords of white
+deer-skin. It is divided in front, so as to form on each side a thick
+tail, to which are appended strings of beads that reach to the waist.
+The women were from four feet and a half to four and three quarters
+high, and generally fat. Some of the younger females, and the children,
+were pretty.
+
+It would appear that the walrus does not visit this part of the coast,
+as none of these people recognised a sketch of one, which Lieutenant
+Back drew; but they at once knew the seal and rein-deer. We learned that
+the polar bear is seldom seen, and only in the autumn; and likewise that
+there are very few of the brown bears, which we frequently saw on the
+coast eastward of the Coppermine River. We had already seen a few white
+whales, and we understood that they would resort to this part of the
+coast in greater numbers with the following moon.
+
+The habits of these people were similar, in every respect, to those of
+the tribes described by Captain Parry, and their dialect differed so
+little from that used by Augustus, that he had no difficulty in
+understanding them. He was, therefore, able to give them full
+particulars relative to the attack made by the other party, and they
+expressed themselves much hurt at their treacherous conduct. "Those are
+bad men," they said, "and never fail either to quarrel with us, or steal
+from us, when we meet. They come, every spring, from the eastern side of
+the Mackenzie, to fish at the place where you saw them, and return as
+soon as the ice opens. They are distinguished from us, who live to the
+westward of the river, by the men being tattoed across the face. Among
+our tribes the women only are tattoed;" having five or six blue lines
+drawn perpendicular from the under lip to the chin. The speaker added,
+"If you are obliged to return by this way, before these people remove,
+we, with a reinforcement of young men, will be in the vicinity, and will
+willingly accompany you to assist in repelling any attack." Augustus
+returned with the Esquimaux to their tents, as there was not the least
+prospect of our getting forward, though the ice was somewhat broken.
+
+[Sidenote: Tuesday, 11th.] A strong breeze from the westward during the
+night, contributed, with the swell, to the further reduction of the ice,
+in front of the encampment; and on the morning of the 11th, the wind
+changed to the eastward, and removed the pieces a little way off shore,
+though they were tossing too violently for the boats to proceed. The
+swell having subsided in the afternoon, we embarked; but at the end of a
+mile and a half were forced to land again, from the ice being fixed to
+the shore; and as the wind had now become strong, and was driving the
+loose pieces on the land, the boats were unloaded and landed on the
+beach. From the summit of an adjoining hill we perceived an unbroken
+field of ice to the west, and, consequently, a barrier to our progress.
+
+We encamped on the spot which our Esquimaux friends had left in the
+morning, to remove in their oomiaks and kaiyacks towards the Mackenzie,
+where they could set their fishing nets, and catch whales and seals. One
+of them showed his honesty, by returning some arrows, and a piece of a
+pemmican bag, that we had left at our last resting-place. The men also
+joined us here with specimens of rock from Mount Fitton.
+
+The Esquimaux winter residences at this spot were constructed of drift
+timber, with the roots of the trees upwards, and contained from one to
+three small apartments, beside a cellar for their stores. There were
+generally two entrances, north and south, so low as to make it necessary
+to crawl through them. The only aperture was a hole at the top for the
+smoke, which, as well as the doorways, could be filled up with a block
+of snow at pleasure. When covered with snow, and with lamps of fire
+burning within, these habitations must be extremely warm, though to our
+ideas rather comfortless. Lofty stages were erected near them for the
+purpose of receiving their canoes, and bulky articles. A north-east gale
+came on in the evening, and rolled such a heavy surf on the beach, that
+twice, during the night, we were obliged to drag the boats and cargoes
+higher up.
+
+[Sidenote: Wednesday, 12th.] About three the next morning a heavy rain
+commenced, and continued, without intermission, through the day; at
+which we were delighted, however comfortless it made our situation,
+because we saw the ice gradually loosening from the land under its
+effects. We found the keeping a tide-pole fixed in the loose gravel
+beach impracticable here, as well as at the last resting-place, on
+account of the swell. It appeared to be high water this morning at half
+past one A.M., and that the rise of tide was about two feet. I need
+hardly observe that we had the sun constantly above the horizon, were it
+not for the purpose of mentioning the amusing mistakes which the men
+made as to the hour. In fact, when not employed, a question as to the
+time of day never failed to puzzle them, except about midnight, when the
+sun was near the northern horizon.
+
+Lieutenant Back missing the protractor which he used for laying down his
+bearings on the map, Augustus set off in the rain early this forenoon to
+recover it from an Esquimaux woman, whom he had seen pick it up. The
+rain ceased in the afternoon, the wind gradually abated, and by eight in
+the evening it was calm. A south wind followed, which opened a passage
+for the boat, but Augustus was not in sight. [Sidenote: Thursday, 13th.]
+At midnight we became greatly alarmed for his safety, having now found
+that he had taken his gun, which we supposed the natives might have
+endeavoured to wrest from him, and we were on the point of despatching a
+party in search of him, when he arrived at four in the morning of the
+13th, much fatigued, accompanied by three of the natives. His journey
+had been lengthened by the Esquimaux having gone farther to the eastward
+than he had expected, but he had recovered the protractor which had been
+kept in their ignorance of its utility to us. His companions brought
+five white fish, and some specimens of crystal, with other stones, from
+the mountains, which we purchased, and further rewarded them for their
+kindness in not allowing Augustus to return alone.
+
+The boats were immediately launched, and having pulled a short distance
+from the land, we set the sails, our course being directed to the outer
+point in view, to avoid the sinuosities of the coast. We passed a wide,
+though not deep bay, whose points were named after my friends Captains
+Sabine and P.P. King; and we were drawing near the next projection, when
+a compact body of ice was discovered, which was joined to the land
+ahead. At the same time a dense fog came on, that confined our view to a
+few yards; it was accompanied by a gale from the land, and heavy rain.
+We had still hopes of getting round the point, and approached the shore
+in that expectation, but found the ice so closely packed that we could
+neither advance nor effect a landing. We, therefore, pulled to seaward,
+and turned the boat's head to the eastward, to trace the outer border of
+the ice. In this situation we were exposed to great danger from the
+sudden change of wind to S.E., which raised a heavy swell, and brought
+down upon us masses of ice of a size that, tossed as they were by the
+waves, would have injured a ship. We could only catch occasional
+glimpses of the land through the fog, and were kept in the most anxious
+suspense, pulling in and out between the floating masses of ice, for
+five hours, before we could get near the shore. We landed a little to
+the west of Point Sabine, and only found sufficient space for the boats
+and tents between the bank and the water. The rain ceased for a short
+time in the evening, and during this interval, we perceived, from the
+top of the bank, that the whole space between us and the distant point,
+as well as the channel by which we had advanced to the westward, were
+now completely blocked; so that we had good reason to congratulate
+ourselves on having reached the shore in safety.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+Babbage River--Meet Natives at Herschel Island--Their Trade with the
+Russians, through the Western Esquimaux--Ascend Mount Conybeare--Boundary
+of the British Dominions on this Coast--Delayed at Icy Reef--Barter
+Island--Detention at Foggy Island--Return Reef--Limit of outward Voyage.
+
+
+[Sidenote: Friday, 14th.] Although it rained heavily during the night,
+and the wind blew strong off the land for some hours, there was no other
+change in the state of the ice on the morning of the 14th, than that the
+smaller pieces were driven a short way from the beach. The day was foggy
+and rainy, but the evening fine. The bank under which we were encamped
+is of the same earthy kind as that described on the 9th, but rather
+higher and steeper. It contains much wood coal, similar to that found in
+the Mackenzie River, and at Garry's Island. The beach and the beds of
+the rivulets that flow through the ravines, consist of coarse gravel.
+Specimens of its stones, of the coal, and of the plants in flower, were
+added to the collection. We saw two marmots, and two rein-deer, which
+were too wary to allow of our getting within shot of them. Between noon
+and ten P.M. the loose ice was driving in front of the encampment from
+the N.W. to S.E., and at the latter hour it stopped. We could not detect
+any difference in the height of the water, and there was a calm the
+whole time. A light breeze from S.E. after midnight, brought the masses
+close to the beach. [Sidenote: Saturday, 15th.] On the morning of the
+15th, having perceived that the ice was loosened from the land near the
+outer point, to which I have given the name of Kay, after some much
+esteemed relatives, we embarked, and in the course of a few hours
+succeeded in reaching it, by passing between the grounded masses of ice.
+On landing at Point Kay, we observed that our progress must again be
+stopped by a compact body of ice that was fast to the shore of a deep
+bay, and extended to our utmost view seaward; and that we could not
+advance farther than the mouth of a river which discharged its waters
+just round the point. The boats were, therefore, pulled to its entrance,
+and we encamped. Former checks had taught us to be patient, and we,
+therefore, commenced such employments as would best serve to beguile the
+time, consoling ourselves with the hope that a strong breeze would soon
+spring up from the land and open a passage. Astronomical observations
+were obtained, the map carried on, and Lieutenant Back sketched the
+beautiful scenery afforded by a view of the Rocky Mountains, while I was
+employed in collecting specimens of the plants in flower. The men amused
+themselves in various ways, and Augustus went to visit an Esquimaux
+family that were on an island contiguous to our encampment.
+
+We now discovered that the Rocky Mountains do not form a continuous
+chain, but that they run in detached ranges at unequal distances from
+the coast. The Richardson chain commencing opposite the mouth of the
+Mackenzie, terminates within view of our present situation. Another
+range, which I have named in honour of Professor Buckland, begins on the
+western side of Phillips Bay, and extending to the boundary of our view,
+is terminated by the Conybeare Mountain.
+
+It gave me great pleasure to affix the name of my friend Mr. Babbage to
+the river we had discovered, and that of Mr. Phillips, Professor of
+Painting at the Royal Academy, to the bay into which its waters are
+emptied. We learned from the Esquimaux that this river, which they call
+Cook-Keaktok, or Rocky River, descends from a very distant part of the
+interior, though they are unacquainted with its course beyond the
+mountains. It appeared to us to flow between the Cupola and Barn
+mountains of the Richardson chain. There are many banks of gravel near
+its mouth, but above these obstructions the channel appeared deep, and
+to be about two miles broad. There were no rocks _in sitû_, or large
+stones, near the encampment; the rolled pebbles on the beach were
+sandstone of red and light brown colours, greenstone, and slaty
+limestone. We gathered a fine specimen of tertiary pitch-coal.
+
+Augustus returned in the evening with a young Esquimaux and his wife,
+the only residents at the house he had visited. They had now quite
+recovered the panic into which they had been thrown on our first
+appearance, which was heightened by their being unable to escape from us
+owing to the want of a canoe. We made them happy by purchasing the fish
+they brought, and giving them a few presents; they continued to skip and
+laugh as long as they staid. The man informed us that judging from the
+rapid decay of the ice in the few preceding days, we might soon expect
+it to break from the land, so as to allow of our reaching Herschel
+Island, which was in view; but he represented the coast to the westward
+of the island as being low, and so generally beset with ice, that he was
+of opinion we should have great difficulty in getting along. This
+couple had been left here to collect fish for the use of their
+companions, who were to rejoin them for the purpose of killing whales,
+as soon as the ice should break up; and they told us the black whales
+would soon come after its rupture took place. It would be interesting to
+ascertain where the whales retire in the winter, as they require to
+inhale the air frequently. Those of the white kind make their appearance
+when there are but small spaces of open water; and we afterwards saw two
+black whales in a similar situation. One might almost infer from these
+circumstances that they do not remove very far. Is it probable that they
+go, at the close of the autumn, to a warmer climate? or can the sea be
+less closely covered with ice in the high northern latitudes? The
+situation of our encampment was observed to be, latitude 69 degrees 19
+minutes N.; longitude 138 degrees 10-1/2 minutes W.; variation 46
+degrees 16 minutes E.; and a rise and fall of nine inches in the water.
+The wind blew from the west during the night, and drove much ice near
+the boats; but as the masses took ground a little way from the shore, we
+were spared the trouble of removing the boats higher up the beach.
+
+[Sidenote: Sunday, 16th.] We were favoured in the forenoon of the 16th
+by a strong breeze from the land, which, in the course of a few hours,
+drove away many of these pieces towards Point Kay, and opened a passage
+for the boats. We immediately embarked to sail over to the western side
+of Phillips Bay, concluding, from the motion of the ice, that it must
+now be detached from that shore. On reaching it, we had the pleasure of
+finding an open channel close to the beach, although the entrance was
+barred by a stream of ice lying aground on a reef. The boats being
+forced by poles over this obstruction, we stood under sail along the
+coast to about five miles beyond Point Stokes; but there we were again
+compelled by the closeness of the ice to stop, and from the top of a
+sand-hill we could not discover any water in the direction of our
+course. The tents were therefore pitched, and the boats unloaded, and
+hauled on the beach. Heavy rain came on in the evening, by which we
+indulged the hope that the ice might be loosened. We were encamped on a
+low bank of gravel which runs along the base of a chain of sand-hills
+about one hundred and fifty feet high, and forms the coast line. The
+bank was covered with drift timber, and is the site of a deserted
+Esquimaux village. The snow still remaining in the ravines was tinged
+with light red spots. [Sidenote: Monday, 17th.] The night was calm, and
+the ice remained in the same fixed state until six in the morning of the
+17th, when, perceiving the pieces in the offing to be in motion we
+launched the boats, and by breaking our way at first with hatchets, and
+then forcing with the poles through other streams of ice, we contrived
+to reach some lanes of water, along which we navigated for four hours. A
+strong breeze springing up from seaward, caused the ice to close so fast
+upon the boat, that we were obliged to put again to the shore, and land
+on a low bank, similar to that on which we had rested the night before.
+It was intersected, however, by many pools and channels of water, which
+cut off our communication with the land. As we could not obtain, from
+our present station, any satisfactory view of the state of the ice to
+the westward, I despatched Duncan and Augustus to take a survey of it
+from Point Catton, while Lieutenant Back and I made some astronomical
+observations. They returned after an absence of two hours, and reported
+that there was water near Herschel Island, and a channel in the offing
+that appeared to lead to it. We, therefore, embarked; and by pushing the
+boats between the masses that lay aground, for some distance, we
+succeeded in reaching open water at the entrance of the strait which
+lies between the island and the main, and through which the loose pieces
+of ice were driving fast to the westward. Having now the benefit of a
+strong favourable breeze, we were enabled to keep clear of them, and
+made good progress. Arriving opposite the S.E. end of Herschel Island,
+we perceived a large herd of rein-deer just taking the water, and on
+approaching the shore to get within shot, discovered three Esquimaux in
+pursuit. These men stood gazing at the boats for some minutes, and after
+a short consultation, we observed them to change the heads of their
+arrows, and prepare their bows. They then walked along the south shore,
+parallel to our course, for the purpose, as we soon found, of rejoining
+their wives. We reached the place at which the ladies were before them,
+and though invited to land, we were not able, on account of the surf.
+Augustus was desired to assure them of our friendship, and of our
+intention to stop at the first sheltered spot, to which they and their
+husbands might come to receive a present. More than this our little
+friend could not be prevailed upon to communicate, because they were
+"old wives;" and it was evident that he considered any further
+conversation with women to be beneath his dignity. On passing round the
+point we discovered that the ice was closely packed to leeward, and such
+a heavy swell setting upon it, that it was unsafe to proceed. We,
+therefore, encamped, and Augustus set off immediately to introduce
+himself to the Esquimaux. The tents were scarcely pitched, and the
+sentinels placed, before he returned, accompanied by twelve men and
+women, each bringing a piece of dried meat, or fish, to present to us.
+We learned from them that the boats, when at a distance, had been taken
+for pieces of ice; but when we drew near enough for them to distinguish
+the crews, and they perceived them clothed differently from any men they
+had seen, they became alarmed, and made ready their arrows, as we had
+observed. On receiving some presents, they raised a loud halloo, which
+brought five or six others from an adjoining island, and in the evening
+there was a further addition to the party of some young men, who had
+been hunting, and who afterwards sent their wives to bring us a part of
+the spoils of their chase. They remained near the tents the greater part
+of the night, and testified their delight by dancing and singing. An old
+woman, whose hair was silvered by age, made a prominent figure in these
+exhibitions.
+
+The information we obtained from them confirmed that which we had
+received from the last party, namely, that they procure the iron,
+knives, and beads, through two channels, but principally from a party of
+Esquimaux who reside a great distance to the westward, and to meet whom
+they send their young men every spring with furs, seal-skins, and oil,
+to exchange for those articles; and also from the Indians, who come
+every year from the interior to trade with them by a river that was
+directly opposite our encampment; which I have, therefore, named the
+Mountain Indian River. These Indians leave their families and canoes at
+two days' march from the mouth of the river, and the men come alone,
+bringing no more goods than they intend to barter. They were represented
+to be tall stout men, clothed in deer-skins, and speaking a language
+very dissimilar to their own. They also said that the Esquimaux to the
+westward, speak a dialect so different from theirs, that at the first
+opening of the communication, which was so recent as to be within the
+memory of two of our present companions, they had great difficulty in
+understanding them. Several quarrels took place at their first meetings,
+in consequence of the western party attempting to steal; but latterly
+there has been a good understanding between them, and the exchanges have
+been fairly made.
+
+Our visitors did not know from what people either the Indians or the
+Esquimaux obtained the goods, but they supposed from some "Kabloonacht,"
+(white people,) who reside far to the west. As the articles we saw were
+not of British manufacture, and were very unlike those sold by the
+Hudson's Bay Company to the Indians, it cannot be doubted that they are
+furnished by the Russian Fur Traders, who receive in return for them all
+the furs collected on this northern coast. Part of the Russian iron-work
+is conveyed to the Esquimaux dwelling on the coast east of the
+Mackenzie. The western Esquimaux use tobacco, and some of our visitors
+had smoked it, but thought the flavour very disagreeable. Until I was
+aware of their being acquainted with the use of it, I prohibited my men
+from smoking in their presence, and afterwards from offering their pipes
+to the Esquimaux at any time. At the conclusion of this conference, our
+visitors assured us, that having now become acquainted with white
+people, and being conscious that the trade with them would be
+beneficial, they would gladly encourage a further intercourse, and do
+all in their power to prevent future visitors from having such a
+reception as we had on our arrival in these seas. We learned that this
+island, which has been distinguished by the name of Herschel, is much
+frequented by the natives at this season of the year, as it abounds with
+deer, and its surrounding waters afford plenty of fish. It is composed
+of black earth, rises, in its highest point, to about one hundred feet,
+and at the time of our visit was covered with verdure. The strait
+between it and the main shore, is the only place that we had seen, since
+quitting the Mackenzie, in which a ship could find shelter; but even
+this channel is much interrupted by shoals. Latitude 69 degrees 33-1/2
+minutes N.; longitude 139 degrees 3 minutes W.; were observed at the
+encampment.
+
+[Sidenote: Tuesday, 18th.] On the morning of the 18th the fog was so
+thick that we could not see beyond the beach. It dispersed about noon,
+and we discovered that there was a channel of open water near the main
+shore, though in the centre of the strait the ice was heavy, and driving
+rapidly to the north-west. We embarked at once, in the expectation of
+being able to penetrate between the drift ice and the land, but the
+attempt was frustrated by the shallowness of the water; and the fog
+again spreading as thick as before, we landed on a sand-bank. We were
+soon visited by another party of the Esquimaux, who brought deer's meat
+for sale; and although the whole quantity did not amount to a deer, we
+had to purchase it in small pieces. This practice of dividing the meat
+among the party, we found to prevail throughout the voyage; and they
+avowed as their reason for it, the desire that every one might obtain a
+share of the good things we distributed. One of the men drew on the sand
+a sketch of the coast to the westward, as far as he was acquainted with
+it; from which it appeared that there was a line of reefs in front of
+the coast the whole way; the water being deep on the outside of them,
+but on the inside too shallow even for their oomiaks to float. We
+subsequently found that his knowledge of the coast did not extend beyond
+a few days' march.
+
+The atmosphere becoming more clear about two P.M., we again embarked,
+and endeavoured to get to seaward. The boats, however, soon grounded;
+and finding all our attempts to push through any of the channels between
+the reefs ineffectual, we pulled back close to Herschel Island.
+Following, then, the course of the drift ice, we passed near to its
+south-west point, which was found to be the only deep passage through
+the strait. We afterwards entered into a fine sheet of open water, the
+main body of the ice being about half a mile to seaward, and only a few
+bergs lying aground in the direction of our course. The outer parts of
+the island appeared closely beset with it. At the end of five miles we
+discerned another large party of Esquimaux, encamped on a reef; they
+waved their jackets as signals for us to land, which we declined doing,
+as we perceived the water to be shallow between us and them. They ran
+along the beach as far as the end of the reef, tempting us by holding up
+meat. Only two of the party were provided with canoes, and they followed
+us to a bluff point of the main shore, on which we landed. These proved
+to be persons whom we had seen at Herschel Island, and who had visited
+the Esquimaux in this quarter on purpose to make them acquainted with
+our arrival. We were happy to learn from them that we should not see any
+more of their countrymen for some time, because, while surrounded by
+them, the necessity of closely watching their motions, prevented us from
+paying due attention to other objects. Resuming our voyage, we pulled
+along the outer border of a gravel reef, about two hundred yards broad,
+that runs parallel to, and about half a mile from, the coast, having a
+line of drift ice on the outside of us. The wind being contrary, and the
+evening cold, temperature 40 degrees, we encamped on the reef at eight
+P.M., where we found plenty of drift timber; the water was brackish. The
+distance travelled this day was eight miles and a half. The main shore
+opposite the encampment was low to a great distance from the coast; it
+then appeared to ascend gradually to the base of the Buckland chain of
+mountains.
+
+[Sidenote: Wednesday, 19th.] The following morning being calm, and very
+fine, the boats were launched at three A.M., and we set off in high
+spirits; but after pulling three miles, we perceived the channel of open
+water becoming narrow, and the pieces of ice heavier than any we had
+before seen, some of them being aground in three fathoms water. At six
+A.M., after having gone five miles and a half, we were stopped by the
+ice which adhered to the reef, and was unbroken to seaward. Imagining we
+saw water at some distance beyond this barrier, we were induced to drag
+the boats across the reef, and launch them into the channel on the
+inside, in the hope of reaching it. This proved to be a bay, at the head
+of which we arrived in a short time. It was then discovered that a fog
+hanging over the ice had been mistaken for water. The boats were,
+therefore, reconveyed across the reef, the tents pitched, and we had to
+draw largely on our nearly exhausted stock of patience, as we
+contemplated the dreary view of this compact icy field. A herd of
+rein-deer appeared very opportunely to afford some employment, and most
+of the men were despatched on the chase, but only one was successful.
+The following observations were obtained:--Latitude 69 degrees 36
+minutes N.; longitude 139 degrees 42 minutes W.; variation 46 degrees 13
+minutes E. Being now abreast of Mount Conybeare, Lieutenant Back and I
+were on the point of setting out to visit its summit, when we were
+stopped by a very dense fog that accompanied a fresh breeze from the
+N.W., followed by heavy rain. [Sidenote: Thursday, 20th.] The weather
+continued bad, until ten the following morning; the ice near the beach
+was broken into smaller pieces, but as yet too closely packed for our
+proceeding. The water being brackish in front of the reef, we despatched
+two men to bring some from the pools at a distance inland, which was
+found to have the same taste; from this circumstance, as well as from
+the piles of drift wood, thrown up far from the coast, one may infer
+that the sea occasionally washes over this low shore. The ice broken off
+from large masses, and permitted to drain before it was melted, did not
+furnish us with better water. A couple of pin-tailed ducks were shot,
+the only pair seen; the black kind were more numerous, but were not
+fired at, as they are fishing ducks, and, therefore, not good to eat. We
+also saw a few geese and swans.
+
+[Sidenote: Friday, 21st.] The atmosphere was calm, and perfectly clear,
+on the morning of the 21st; and as there was not any change in the
+position of the ice, I visited Mount Conybeare, accompanied by Duncan
+and Stewart. Though its distance was not more than twelve miles from the
+coast, the journey proved to be very fatiguing, owing to the swampiness
+of the ground between the mountain and the sea. We had also the
+discomfort of being tormented the whole way by myriads of musquitoes.
+The plain was intersected by a winding river, about forty yards broad,
+which we forded, and on its western side found a thicket of willows,
+none of which were above seven inches in circumference, and only five or
+six feet high. At the foot of the mountain were three parallel
+platforms, or terraces, whose heights we estimated at fifty, eighty, and
+one hundred and thirty feet; composed of transition slate, the stone of
+the lowest being of the closest texture. We found the task of climbing
+above the upper terraces difficult, in consequence of the looseness of
+the stones, which did not afford a firm footing, but after an hour's
+labour, we succeeded in reaching the top. The mountain is also composed
+of slate, but so much weathered near the summit, as to appear a mere
+collection of stones. Its height above the sea we estimated at eight
+hundred feet. Two or three hardy plants were in flower, at the highest
+elevation, which we gathered, though they were of the same kind that had
+been collected in the lower lands; and during the whole march we did not
+meet with any plant different from the specimens we had already
+obtained. On arriving at the top of the mountain, we were refreshed by a
+strong south wind, which we fondly hoped might reach to the coast, and
+be of service, by driving the ice from the land. This hope, however,
+lasted only a few minutes; for, on casting our eyes to seaward, there
+appeared no open water into which it could be moved, except near
+Herschel Island. The view into the interior possessed the charm of
+novelty, and attracted particular regard. We commanded a prospect over
+three ranges of mountains, lying parallel to the Buckland chain, but of
+less altitude. The view was bounded by a fourth range of high-peaked
+mountains, for the most part covered with snow. This distant range was
+afterwards distinguished by the name of the British Chain; and the
+mountains at its extremities were named in honour of the then Chancellor
+of the Exchequer, and President of the Board of Trade--the Right
+Honourable Mr. Robinson, now Lord Goderich, and Mr. Huskisson. When seen
+from the coast, the mountains of the Buckland chain appeared to form a
+continuous line, extending from N.W. by N., to S.E. by S.; but from our
+present situation we discovered that they were separated from each other
+by a deep valley, and a rivulet, and that their longest direction was
+N.N.E. and S.S.W. The same order prevailed in the three ranges behind
+the Buckland chain; and the highest of their mountains, like Mount
+Conybeare, were round and naked at the top; the vallies between them
+were grassy. We erected a pile of stones of sufficient height to be seen
+from the sea, and deposited underneath it a note, containing the
+latitude, longitude, and some particulars relative to the Expedition.
+
+[Sidenote: Saturday, 22nd.] The 22nd was a calm sultry day, the
+temperature varying between 58 degrees and 63 degrees, and we were
+tormented by musquitoes. The ice remained very close to the beach.
+[Sidenote: Sunday, 23rd.] Impatient of our long detention, we gladly
+availed ourselves, at three in the morning of the 23rd, of a small
+opening in the ice, to launch the boats, and push them forward as far as
+we could get them. We thus succeeded in reaching a lane of water,
+through which we made tolerable progress, though after two hours and a
+half of exertion, we were gradually hemmed in, and forced again to
+encamp at the mouth of a small stream westward of Sir Pulteney Malcolm
+River. We had, however, the satisfaction of finding, by the
+observations, that we had gained ten miles. Latitude 69 degrees 36
+minutes N.; longitude 140 degrees 12 minutes W.; variation 45 degrees 6
+minutes E. The temperature of the water at the surface a quarter of a
+mile from the shore was 40 degrees, that of the air being 49 degrees.
+The water was two fathoms deep, ten yards from the beach.
+
+The coast here was about fifteen feet high; and from the top of the bank
+a level plain extended to the base of the mountains, which, though very
+swampy, was covered with verdure. At this place we first found boulder
+stones, which were deeply seated in the gravel of the beach. They
+consisted of greenstone, sandstone, and limestone; the first mentioned
+being the largest, and the last the most numerous. Having seen several
+fish leaping in the river, a net was set across its mouth, though
+without success, owing to the meshes being too large. Two men were
+despatched to examine the state of the ice; and on their return from a
+walk of several miles, they reported that, with the exception of a small
+spot close to the beach, it was quite compact. They had observed, about
+two miles from the encampment, stumps of drift wood fixed in the ground
+at certain distances, extending from the coast across the plain towards
+the Rocky Mountains, in the direction of two piles of stones, which were
+erected on the top of the latter. We were at a loss to conjecture what
+motive the Esquimaux could have had for taking so much trouble, unless
+these posts were intended to serve as decoys for the rein-deer. The
+party assembled at divine service in the evening, as had been our
+practice every Sunday.
+
+[Sidenote: Monday, 24th.] On the morning of the 24th we were able to
+make a further advance of two miles and three quarters, by forcing the
+boats between the masses of ice, as far as the debouche of another
+rivulet, in latitude 69 degrees 36-1/2 minutes N., and longitude 140
+degrees 19-1/2 minutes W. Under any other circumstance than that of
+being beset by ice, the beautifully calm and clear weather we then had
+would have been delightful; but as our hope of being released rested
+solely on a strong wind, we never ceased to long for its occurrence. A
+breeze would have been, at any rate, beneficial in driving away the
+musquitoes, which were so numerous as to prevent any enjoyment of the
+open air, and to keep us confined to a tent filled with smoke, the only
+remedy against their annoyance.
+
+[Sidenote: Tuesday, 25th.] We were still detained the two following
+days, and the only things we saw were a grey wolf, some seals, and some
+ducks. More tedious hours than those passed by us in the present
+situation, cannot well be imagined. After the astronomical observations
+had been obtained and worked, the survey brought up, a sketch made of
+the encampment, and specimens of the plants and stones in the vicinity
+collected, there was, literally, nothing to do. The anxiety which was
+inseparable from such an enterprize as ours, at such an advanced period
+of the season, left but little disposition to read, even if there had
+been a greater choice of books in our travelling library, and still less
+composure to invent amusement. Even had the musquitoes been less
+tormenting, the swampiness of the ground, in which we sank ankle deep at
+every step, deprived us of the pleasure of walking. A visit to the Rocky
+Mountains was often talked of, but they were now at a distance of two
+days' journey, and we dared not to be absent from the boats so long,
+lest the ice, in its fickle movements, should open for a short time.
+Notwithstanding the closeness of the ice, we perceived a regular rise
+and fall of the water, though it amounted only to seven inches, except
+on the night of the 24th, when the rise was two feet; but the direction
+of the flood was not yet ascertained. We found a greater proportion of
+birch-wood, mixed with the drift timber to the westward of the Babbage
+than we had done before; between the Mackenzie and that river it had
+been so scarce, that we had to draw upon our store of bark to light the
+fires. Some lunar observations were obtained in the afternoon of the
+25th, and their results assured us that the chronometers were going
+steadily. At midnight we were visited by a strong S.W. breeze,
+accompanied by rain, thunder, and lightning. This weather was succeeded
+by calm, and a fog that continued throughout the next day, and confined
+our view to a few yards. Temperature from 41 degrees to 43 degrees.
+[Sidenote: Wednesday, 26th.] On the atmosphere becoming clear about nine
+in the evening of the 26th, we discovered a lane of water, and
+immediately embarking, we pulled, for an hour, without experiencing much
+interruption from the ice. A fresh breeze then sprung up from the N.W.,
+which brought with it a very dense fog, and likewise caused the ice to
+close so fast upon us, that we were compelled to hasten to the shore. We
+had just landed, when the channel was completely closed. We encamped on
+the western side of a river about two hundred yards broad, which, at the
+request of Lieutenant Back, was named after Mr. Backhouse, one of the
+under Secretaries of State for Foreign Affairs. It appeared that the
+water that flowed from this channel had caused the opening by which we
+had travelled from our last resting-place; for beyond it, the ice was
+closely packed.
+
+[Sidenote: Thursday, 27th.] Some heavy rain fell in the night, and the
+morning of the 27th was foggy; but the sun, about noon, having dispersed
+the fog, we discovered an open channel about half a mile from the shore.
+No time was lost in pushing the boats into it. By following its course
+to the end, and breaking our way through some streams of ice, we were
+brought, at the end of eight miles, to the mouth of a wide river that
+flows from the British range of mountains. This being the most westerly
+river in the British dominions on this coast, and near the line of
+demarcation between Great Britain and Russia, I named it the Clarence,
+in honour of His Royal Highness the Lord High Admiral. Under a pile of
+drift timber which we erected on the most elevated point of the coast
+near its mouth, was deposited a tin box, containing a royal silver
+medal, with an account of the proceedings of the Expedition; and the
+union flag was hoisted under three hearty cheers, the only salute that
+we could afford. This ceremony did not detain us longer than half an
+hour; when we launched into a larger space of open water than we had
+seen since the 9th of the month. This circumstance, together with the
+appearance of several seals, and the water becoming more salt, created a
+hope that we should soon enter upon a brisker navigation. But this too
+sanguine expectation was dispelled in little more than an hour, by a
+close and heavy field of ice, which obliged us to pull to the shore. The
+tent was pitched under a steep bank of mud, in latitude 69 degrees 38
+minutes N.; longitude 140 degrees 46 minutes W. The soundings this day
+varied from two to ten fathoms; and the temperature of the air from 37
+degrees to 45 degrees. [Sidenote: Friday, 28th.] The ice having opened
+near the beach by noon of the 28th, so as to admit the boats, we
+embarked, to try if we could not advance by thrusting the masses aside
+with poles. After spending several hours in this labour, and gaining
+only two miles, further exertion became ineffectual, owing to the ice
+being closely packed, and many of the pieces from fifteen to twenty feet
+high, lying aground. We had however, gained by the removal the comforts
+of dry ground, and good water, which had been wanting at the last
+encampment. Among the drift timber on the beach was a pine tree, seven
+feet and a quarter in girth, by thirty-six long. We had previously seen
+several, little inferior in size. The temperature this day varied from
+39 degrees to 48 degrees. We had observed, for the preceding fortnight,
+that the musquitoes assailed us as soon as the temperature rose to 45
+degrees, and that they retired quickly on its descending below that
+height.
+
+[Sidenote: Saturday, 29th.] The morning of the 29th opened with heavy
+rain and fog; the precursors of a strong gale from E.N.E., which brought
+back the ice we had already passed, and closely packed it along the
+beach, but we could not perceive that the wind had the slightest effect
+on the main body at a distance from the shore. This was a very cold,
+comfortless day, the temperature between 38 degrees and 42 degrees.
+[Sidenote: Sunday, 30th.] On the following morning a brilliant sun
+contributed with the gale to the dispersion of the mist which had, for
+some days past, overhung the Rocky Mountains, and we had the
+gratification of seeing, for the first time, the whole length of the
+British Chain of Mountains, which are more peaked and irregular in their
+outline, and more picturesque than those of the Buckland Range. The
+following observations were obtained here:--Latitude 69 degrees 38
+minutes N.; longitude 140 degrees 51 minutes W.; variation 45 degrees 43
+minutes E.; dip 83 degrees 27 minutes. In exploring the bed of a rivulet
+we found several pieces of quartz, containing pyrites of a very bright
+colour, which so much attracted the attention of the crews, that they
+spent several hours in examining every stone, expecting to have their
+labour rewarded by the discovery of some precious metal.
+
+The gale having abated in the evening, we quickly loaded the boats, and
+pulled them into a lane of water that we had observed about half a mile
+from the shore. This, however, extended only a short way to the west,
+and at the end of a mile and a half inclined towards the beach, the ice
+beyond it being closely packed. Before the boats could be brought to the
+land, they received several heavy blows in passing through narrow
+channels, and over tongues of grounded ice. I walked to the extreme
+point that we had in view from the tent, and was rejoiced by the sight
+of a large space of water in the direction of our course; but up to the
+point the ice was still compact, and heavy. On my way I passed another
+Esquimaux village, where there were marks of recent visitors.
+
+We witnessed the setting of the sun at eleven P.M.; an unwelcome sight,
+which the gloomy weather had, till then, spared us; for it forced upon
+our minds the conviction that the favourable season for our operations
+was fast passing away, though we had, as yet, made so little progress.
+This was not the only uncomfortable circumstance that attended us this
+evening. Our friend Augustus was seized with a shivering fit, in
+consequence of having imprudently rushed, when in full perspiration,
+into a lake of cold water, to drag out a rein-deer which he had killed.
+He was unable to walk on coming out of the water, and the consequence
+would have been more serious had it not been for the kindness of his
+companion, Wilson, who deprived himself of his flannels and waistcoat to
+clothe him. On their arrival at the tent, Augustus was put between
+blankets, and provided with warm chocolate, and the only inconvenience
+that he felt next morning was pain in his limbs.
+
+[Sidenote: Monday, 31st.] We had several showers of rain during the
+night, with a steady S.W. breeze, and in the morning of the 31st were
+delighted by perceiving the ice loosening and driving off the land. We
+were afloat in a few minutes, and enjoyed the novelty of pulling through
+an uninterrupted channel as far as Point Demarcation, which has been so
+named from its being situated in longitude 141 degrees W., the boundary
+between the British and Russian dominions on the northern coast of
+America. This point seems to be much resorted to by the Esquimaux, as we
+found here many winter houses, and four large stages. On the latter were
+deposited several bundles of seal and deer skins, and several pair of
+snow-shoes. The snow-shoes were netted with cords of deer-skin, and were
+shaped like those used by the Indians near the Mackenzie. A favourable
+breeze now sprang up; and having ascertained, by mounting one of the
+Esquimaux stages, that there was still a channel of open water between a
+low island and the main shore, we set sail to follow its course. At the
+end of three miles we found the water gradually to decrease from three
+fathoms to as many feet, and shortly afterwards the boats repeatedly
+took the ground. In this situation we were enveloped by a thick fog,
+which limited our view to a few yards. We, therefore, dragged the boats
+to the land, until we could see our way; this did not happen before ten
+in the evening, when it was discovered from the summit of an eminence,
+about two miles distant, that though the channel was of some extent, it
+was very shallow, and seemed to be barred by ice to the westward. We
+also ascertained that it was bounded to the seaward by a long reef. The
+night proved very stormy, and we were but scantily supplied with drift
+wood.
+
+[Sidenote: August 1st.] Though the morning of the 1st of August
+commenced with a heavy gale from E.N.E., and very foggy weather, we
+proceeded to the reef, after much fatigue in dragging the boats over
+the flats, under the supposition that our best chance of getting forward
+would be by passing on the outside of it. But there finding heavy ice
+lying aground, and so closely packed as to preclude the possibility of
+putting the boats into the water, it was determined to examine the
+channel by walking along the shore of the reef. An outlet to the sea was
+discovered, but the channel was so flat that gulls were, in most parts,
+wading across; and there was, therefore, no other course than to await
+the separation of the ice from the reef. On the dispersion of the fog in
+the afternoon, we perceived that some of the masses of ice were from
+twenty to thirty feet high; and we derived little comfort from
+beholding, from the top of one of them, an unbroken surface of ice to
+seaward.
+
+[Sidenote: Wednesday, 2nd.] The gale blew without the least abatement
+throughout the night, and until noon of the 2nd, when it terminated in a
+violent gust, which overthrew the tents. The field of ice was broken in
+the offing, and the pieces put in motion; and in the evening there
+appeared a large space of open water, but we could not take advantage of
+these favourable circumstances, in consequence of the ice still closely
+besetting the reef. We remarked large heaps of gravel, fifteen feet
+above the surface of the reef, on the largest iceberg, which must have
+been caused by the pressure of the ice; and from the top of this berg we
+had the satisfaction of discovering that a large herd of rein-deer were
+marching in line towards the opposite side of the channel. Our party was
+instantly on the alert, and the best hunters were sent in the Reliance
+in chase of them. The boat grounded about midway across, and the eager
+sportsmen jumped overboard and hastened to the shore; but such was their
+want of skill, that only three fawns were killed, out of a herd of three
+or four hundred. The supply, however, was sufficient for our present
+use, and the circumstances of the chase afforded amusing conversation
+for the evening. The astronomical observations place our encampment in
+latitude 69 degrees 43 minutes N.; longitude 141 degrees 30 minutes W.
+The temperature this day varied from 40 degrees to 42 degrees.
+
+[Sidenote: Thursday, 3rd.] On the morning of the 3rd a strong breeze set
+in from the east, which we were rejoiced to find caused a higher flood
+in the channel than we had yet seen, and the hope of effecting a passage
+by its course was revived; as the ice was still fast to the reef, and
+likely to continue so, it was considered better to occupy ourselves in
+dragging the boats through the mud, than to continue longer in this
+irksome spot, where the wood was already scarce, and the water
+indifferent. The boats, therefore, proceeded with four men in each,
+while the rest of the crew walked along the shore, and rendered
+assistance wherever it was necessary, to drag them over the shallow
+parts. After four hours' labour, we reached the eastern part of the bay,
+which I have had the pleasure of naming after my friend Captain
+Beaufort, R.N., and which was then covered with ice. We had also the
+happiness of finding a channel that led to seaward, which enabled us to
+get on the outside of the reef; but as we pushed as close as we could to
+the border of the packed ice, our situation, for the next four hours,
+was attended with no little anxiety. The appearance of the clouds
+bespoke the return of fog, and we were sailing with a strong breeze
+through narrow channels, between heavy pieces of drift ice, on the
+outside of a chain of reefs that stretched across Beaufort Bay, which we
+knew could not be approached within a mile, owing to the shallowness of
+the water.
+
+Beyond Point Humphrys, the water being deep close to the coast, we
+travelled in more security, though the ice was less open than before. We
+halted to sup on a gravel reef that extends from the main shore to Point
+Griffin, having run twenty-eight miles, the greatest distance we had
+made on one day since our departure from the Mackenzie.
+
+A black whale, and several seals, having been seen just before we
+landed, the water now decidedly salt, and the ice driving with great
+rapidity to the westward, were circumstances that we hailed with
+heartfelt joy; as affording the prospect of getting speedily forward,
+and in the evening we lost sight of Mount Conybeare, which had been
+visible since the 9th of July. There were several huts on the reef, and
+one large tent, capable of holding forty persons, which appeared to have
+been lately occupied, besides eighteen sledges, that we supposed to have
+been left by the men who had gone from Herschel Island, to exchange
+their furs with the western Esquimaux. Among the baggage we found a
+spoon, made out of the musk ox horn, like those used by the Canadian
+voyagers. At six this evening we passed the termination of the British
+Chain of Mountains, and had now arrived opposite the commencement of
+another range, which I named after the late Count Romanzoff, Chancellor
+of the Russian Empire, as a tribute of respect to the memory of that
+distinguished patron and promoter of discovery and science.
+
+Having taken the precaution of supplying ourselves with fresh water, we
+quitted the reef, to proceed on our voyage under sail, but shortly
+afterwards arrived at very heavy ice, apparently packed. We found,
+however, a narrow passage, and by forcing the boats through it, reached
+a more open channel, where the oars could be used. This extended along a
+reef, so that we could pursue our course with safety, being ready to
+land in the event of the ice drifting upon us. [Sidenote: Friday, 4th.]
+The sun set this evening at half past ten P.M.; and the temperature of
+the air during its disappearance was 38 degrees. Between the reefs and
+the low main land the water was entirely free from ice. After passing
+Point Sir Henry Martin, we were tempted, by the appearance of a bay, to
+steer within the reefs, as we could then use the sails, and make a more
+direct course than by winding among the ice. The water proved so shallow
+that the boats took the ground, at the distance of three miles from the
+shore, which caused us to alter our plan, and follow the line of drift
+ice near the border of the pack. The breeze died away; and in proceeding
+under oars beyond Point Manning, we descried a collection of tents
+planted on a low island, with many oomiaks, kaiyacks, and dogs around
+them. The Esquimaux being fast asleep, Augustus was desired to hail
+them, and after two or three loud calls, a female appeared in a state of
+nudity; after a few seconds she called out to her husband, who awoke at
+the first sound of her voice, and shouting out that strangers were close
+at hand, the whole space between the tents and the water was, in a few
+minutes, covered with armed, though naked, people. Their consternation
+on being thus suddenly roused by strangers, of whose existence they had
+never heard, can be better imagined than described. We drew near the
+shore, to let Augustus inform them who we were, and of the purpose of
+our visit, which produced a burst of acclamation, and an immediate
+invitation to land. This we declined doing, having counted fifty-four
+grown persons, and knowing that we had not the means of furnishing such
+a number with the articles they might crave. Besides, it was evident,
+from their hurried manner, that they were in a state of high excitement,
+and might then, perhaps, have been disposed to seize upon everything
+within their grasp. Four of the kaiyacks being launched, after we had
+receded to a proper distance from the island, we allowed them to come
+alongside; and presents were given to the men. We then learned that
+these were the people who had conveyed the furs, &c., from Herschel
+Island, and that the exchange with the Esquimaux had been made at the
+place where they were encamped, only a few days before. They intended to
+commence their return this day to Herschel Island, where the iron and
+beads would be distributed among their relations, according to the
+furs, &c. they had supplied. The Esquimaux saluted us at parting with
+many vociferations of _teyma_, and we continued our journey for five
+miles; at the end of which, the wind setting in strongly against us, we
+landed at the western part of Barter Island, to refresh the crew. We
+then found that a rapid tide was running to the eastward, and at eleven
+the water had risen one foot, from the time of our landing. The tents
+were scarcely pitched before we saw two kaiyacks coming towards us from
+the westward, and the man in the headmost accepted, without hesitation,
+our invitation to land. His companion was asleep, and his canoe was
+driving with the wind and tide; but when awaked by the voice of
+Augustus, he also came. These were young men returning from hunting to
+the tents that we had passed; and being much fatigued, they made but a
+short stay. The only information collected from them was, that the coast
+before us was similar to that along which we had been travelling, and
+that the ice was broken from the shore. The latitude 70 degrees 5
+minutes N.; longitude 143 degrees 55 minutes W.; variation 45 degrees 36
+minutes E.; were observed.
+
+As soon as the latitude had been obtained, we embarked, favoured by wind
+and tide, to cross the bay, which has been named in honour of the
+Marquess Camden. The water was of a seagreen colour, perfectly salt, and
+from three to five fathoms deep; the temperature 35 degrees at the
+surface, that of the air, 43 degrees. The day was very clear, and
+exposed to our view the outline of the Romanzoff chain of Mountains,
+whose lofty peaks were covered with snow. At the end of ten miles we
+observed four tents planted on a reef, and several women standing about
+them, who made many signs for us to land, but the surf was rolling too
+heavily on the beach. As we proceeded, their husbands were perceived on
+the main shore, in pursuit of a large herd of rein-deer, which they
+seemed to be surrounding so as to drive the deer into the water, where
+they would probably spear them to more advantage.
+
+Continuing along the shore beyond the reef at the distance of two miles
+from the land, the boats touched the ground several times, which made us
+conclude we were steering into a bay, though its outline could not be
+seen. The wind changed at the time to the north, blew strong, and raised
+a heavy swell, which induced us to haul out to seaward, and we soon
+afterwards discovered an island, which we just reached under sail. From
+its summit we perceived a chain of low reefs, extending from its
+northern point for several miles to the westward, on which the wind was
+then blowing, and bringing down the drift ice. We were, therefore,
+compelled to halt, and await more moderate weather. This island, like
+the projecting points of the main shore, is a mere deposit of earthly
+mud, covered with verdure, about twenty or twenty-five feet high. There
+was another island adjoining, which seemed to be a collection of boulder
+stones; from whence it was named.
+
+The ice appeared closely packed to the seaward; nearer to the island
+were icebergs aground, and within these, streams of loose pieces driving
+towards the reefs. In the hurry of embarkation from Barter Island, one
+of the crew of the Reliance left his gun and ammunition, which we
+regretted the more, from being apprehensive that an accident might
+happen to the natives. The circumstance was not known before the boats
+were a great distance from the island, or we should have put back to
+have recovered it.
+
+A very thick fog came on in the evening. This weather, however, did not
+prevent our receiving a visit from two of the natives about midnight,
+who told Augustus that, having scented the smoke of a fire from the
+opposite side of the bay, they had come to ascertain who had made it.
+They were armed with bows and arrows, and advanced towards the tent
+without any alarm. We found that they had been hunting, with several
+other men, at the foot of the Romanzoff Mountains, and that they were
+now going to rejoin their friends at Barter Island, with the fruits of a
+successful chase. Their knowledge of the coast terminated at this place,
+which is as far to the westward as any of the party from Herschel Island
+travel.
+
+The western Esquimaux had parted from them seven nights before, but they
+supposed that they had not made much progress, as their oomiaks were
+heavily laden. Those people had informed them that the coast to the
+westward was low, and fronted by reefs, like that we had already passed;
+the water also was very shallow; they therefore recommended that we
+should keep on the outside of every reef. Our visitors had no sooner
+received their presents than they raised a loud cry, which was intended
+to bring their friends. On the dispersion of the fog at the time, we
+discovered an oomiak, filled with people paddling, and some other men
+wading towards us. [Sidenote: Saturday, 5th.] It being calm, and the
+swell having abated, we did not wait for their arrival, but embarked at
+one in the morning of the 5th, and pursued our course to the westward,
+keeping on the outside of the reefs. The water, however, was very
+shallow, even at the distance of two miles, and we were much teased by
+the boats repeatedly touching the ground. This was particularly the
+case when we arrived opposite to the large river, which was named in
+honour of the late Mr. Canning, where we found the water perfectly
+fresh, three miles from the land. The ice being more loose abreast of
+this river, we pulled out to seaward into deep water. The land was then
+hidden from our view by the haze, though not more than four miles
+distant, and our course was directed by the masses of ice lying aground;
+but at the end of three miles, our further progress was stopped at six
+A.M., by the ice being closely packed on the outer border of a reef, in
+latitude 70 degrees 7 minutes N.; longitude 145 degrees 27 minutes W.
+
+We perceived, on landing, by the driving of the loose pieces of ice,
+that the tide was running strongly to the eastward, through the channel
+we had passed along, and that it continued to do so, until ten this
+morning, during which time the water was falling. It changed at ten, and
+the water rose one foot before one P.M. This observation would indicate
+the flood to come from the eastward, though contrary to what was
+remarked at Barter Island the day before; but in a sea so closely beset
+with ice, no accurate observations as to the direction of the tide could
+be obtained.
+
+The Rocky Mountains either terminated abreast of our present situation,
+or receded so far to the southward as to be imperceptible from the coast
+a few miles beyond this reef. The ice being somewhat loosened by the
+flood tide, we embarked at one P.M., to force the boats through the
+narrow channels, and in the course of two hours reached Point Brownlow,
+where we landed, for the purpose of ascertaining whether the ice could
+be avoided by passing into the bay that then opened to our view,
+trending to the south. We perceived that this bay was in every part
+flat, and strewed with stones; and that the only prospect of getting
+forward was by entering the ice again, and pushing to an island about
+two miles further to the west, which we reached after receiving several
+heavy blows in passing through the loose ice at the entrance of the
+strait, between the central reef and the island, where the pieces were
+much tossed by the tide.
+
+The view from the south-east part of the island led us, at first, to
+suppose that we might proceed by keeping close to its south shore; but
+in making the attempt, the boats repeatedly took the ground, and we were
+obliged to seek a passage by the north side of the island. At the end of
+a mile in that direction we were stopped by the ice being unbroken from
+the shore, and closely packed to seaward. Since the day after our
+departure from the Mackenzie, when we first came to the ice, we had not
+witnessed a more unfavourable prospect than that before us. No water was
+to be seen, either from the tents, or from the different points of the
+island which we visited, for the purpose of examining into the state of
+the ice. We were now scantily supplied with fuel; the drift timber being
+covered by the ice high up the bank, except just where the boat had
+landed.
+
+[Sidenote: Sunday, 6th.] In the evening a gale came on from the east,
+and blew throughout the following day: we vainly hoped this would
+produce some favourable change; and the water froze in the kettle on the
+night of the 5th. The position of the encampment was ascertained by
+observation to be, latitude 70 degrees 11 minutes N.; longitude 145
+degrees 50 minutes W.; variation 42 degrees 56 minutes E.; so that
+notwithstanding the obstructions we had met, an advance of two degrees
+of longitude had been made in the two preceding days.
+
+This island received the name of Flaxman, in honour of the late eminent
+sculptor. It is about four miles long and two broad, and rises, at its
+highest elevation, about fifty feet. In one of the ravines, where a
+portion of the bank had been carried away by the disruption of the ice,
+we perceived that the stratum of loose earth was not more than eighteen
+inches thick, the lower bed being frozen mud; yet this small quantity of
+soil, though very swampy, nourished grasses, several of the arctic
+plants, and some few willows, that were about three inches high. Several
+boulder stones were scattered on its beach, and also in the channel that
+separates it from the main shore.
+
+[Sidenote: Monday, 7th.] An easterly wind gave place to a calm on the
+morning of the 7th: and as this change, though it produced no effect in
+loosening the ice to the north, caused more water to flow into the
+channel between the island and the main, we succeeded with little
+difficulty in crossing the flats that had before impeded us. Beyond this
+bar the water gradually deepened to three fathoms; and a favourable
+breeze springing up, we set the sail, and steered for the outer point of
+land in sight. We continued in smooth water until we reached Point
+Thompson, when, having lost the shelter of the ice which was aground on
+a tongue of gravel projecting from Flaxman Island, we became exposed to
+an unpleasant swell.
+
+The Lion was very leaky, in consequence of the blows she had received
+from the ice; but as we could keep her free by baling, we did not lose
+the favourable moment by stopping to repair her. Our course was
+continued past Point Bullen, until we came to an island lying three
+miles from the shore, which proved to be connected with the main land by
+a reef. Dazzled by the glare of the sun in our eyes, the surf, which was
+breaking on this reef, was mistaken for a ripple of the tide; and
+although the sails were lowered, as a measure of precaution, we were so
+near before the mistake was discovered, that the strength of the wind
+drove the Lion aground, by which accident she took in much water. The
+exertions of the crew soon got her afloat, and both boats were pulled to
+windward of the island. The sails were then set, but as the wind had by
+this time increased to a strong gale, they were close reefed. We stood
+along the coast, looking for a favourable landing place, that we might
+obtain shelter from an approaching storm which the appearance of the sky
+indicated, and to repair the damage which the Lion had sustained. At
+length, some posts that had been erected by the Esquimaux on a point,
+denoted an approachable part of the coast, and we effected a landing
+after lightening the boats, by carrying part of the cargo two hundred
+yards through the water. The main shore to the westward of Flaxman
+Island is so low that it is not visible at the distance of three miles,
+with the exception of three small hummocks, which look like islands.
+
+[Sidenote: Tuesday, 8th.] The carpenter had finished the repairs of the
+boat by midnight, and we were prepared to go forward, but were prevented
+from moving by a very thick fog, which continued throughout the night,
+and till eleven on the morning of the 8th. The storm continued violent
+throughout the day, but the fog cleared away for the space of two hours,
+and enabled us to perceive that the ice, which in the preceding evening
+had been at a considerable distance from the land, was now tossing
+about, in large masses, close to the border of the shallow water. We
+were also enabled, during the interval of clear weather, to ascertain,
+by astronomical observations, the latitude 70 degrees 16 minutes 27
+seconds N.; longitude 147 degrees 38 minutes W.; and variation 43
+degrees 15 minutes E.
+
+The hunters were sent out in pursuit of some deer that were seen, and
+Augustus killed one. They ascertained, during the chase, that we were on
+an island, separated from the main shore by a channel, fordable at low
+water. At this encampment we remarked the first instance of regularity
+in the tide. It was low water at half past nine on the evening of the
+7th, and high water at half past two the following morning; the rise
+being sixteen inches. An equally regular tide was observed on the 8th,
+but we could not ascertain the direction of the flood. [Sidenote:
+Wednesday, 9th.] After sunset the squalls became extremely violent; and
+until three in the afternoon of the 9th, the fog was so dense that every
+object more distant than forty yards, was hidden. After that period, a
+partial clearness of the atmosphere discovered to us the waves more high
+than the day before, and beating heavily against the weather beach of
+the island. We rejoiced, however, at seeing a large stream of ice to
+windward, supposing that its presence there would cause the swell to go
+down, and that we should be able to proceed as soon as the wind should
+fall. We employed ourselves in observing the dip with Meyer's and the
+common needles, as well as the magnetic force. The mean dip was 82
+degrees 26 minutes. The temperature of the air this day varied from 38
+degrees to 45 degrees. High water took place at fifteen minutes after
+three P.M., the rise being two feet. The water did not fall so low as
+yesterday, owing to the wind blowing more across the mouth of the bay.
+
+[Sidenote: Thursday, 10th.] On the 10th, the continuance of the gale,
+and of the fog more opaque, if possible, than before, and more wet, were
+not only productive of irksome detention, but they prevented us from
+taking exercise; our walks being confined to a space between the marks
+which the Esquimaux had put up on two projecting points, whither we went
+at every glimpse of clearness, to examine into the state of the waves.
+We witnessed with regret, in these short rambles, the havoc which this
+dreary weather made amongst the flowers. Many that had been blooming on
+our arrival, were now lying prostrate and withered. These symptoms of
+decay could not fail painfully to remind us that the term of our
+operations was fast approaching; and often, at this time, did every one
+express a wish that we had some decked vessel, in which the provision
+could be secured from the injury of salt water, and the crew sheltered
+when they required rest, that we might quit this shallow coast, and
+steer at once towards Icy Cape. We designated this dreary place by the
+name of Foggy Island. As an instance of the illusion occasioned by the
+fog, I may mention that our hunters sallied forth, on more than one
+occasion, to fire at what they supposed to be deer, on the bank about
+one hundred yards from the tents, which, to their surprise, took wing,
+and proved to be cranes and geese.
+
+[Sidenote: Friday, 11th.] The wind changed from east to west in the
+course of the night, and at eight in the morning of the 11th, the fog
+dispersed sufficiently to allow of our seeing a point bearing N.W. by
+W., about three miles and a half distant which we supposed to be an
+island. We, therefore, hastened to embark; but before the boats could be
+dragged so far from the shore that they would float, the fog returned.
+The wind, however, being light, we resolved to proceed, and steer by
+compass, to the land that had been seen. Soon after quitting the beach
+we met with shoals, which forced us to alter the course more to the
+north; and having made the distance at which we estimated the point to
+be, and being ignorant which way the coast trended beyond it, we rested
+for some time upon the oars, in the hope that the fog would clear away,
+even for a short time, to enable us to shape our course anew; but in
+vain; all our movements in the bay being impeded by the flats that
+surrounded us, we were compelled to return to Foggy Island. Scarcely had
+the men made a fire to dry their clothes, which were thoroughly wet from
+wading over the flats, than the fog again dispersing, we pushed off once
+more. On this occasion we arrived abreast of the point whilst the
+weather continued clear, but found a reef, over which the waves washed,
+stretching to the north-west, beyond the extent of our view. Just as we
+began to proceed along the reef, the recurrence of the fog rendered it
+necessary for us to seek for shelter on the shore; and as we were
+heartily tired of our late encampment, we endeavoured to find another,
+but the shoals prevented our reaching any landing-place. We, therefore,
+retraced our course, though with much reluctance, to Foggy Island, which
+the men declared to be an enchanted island. Though our wanderings this
+day did not exceed seven miles, the crews were employed upwards of two
+hours in dragging the boats through the mud, when the temperature of the
+water was at 40 degrees, and that of the air 41 degrees. They endured
+this fatigue with the greatest cheerfulness, though it was evident they
+suffered very much from the cold; and in the evening we witnessed the
+ill effects of this kind of labour by finding their legs much swelled
+and inflamed. The fear of their becoming ill from a frequent repetition
+of such operations made me resolve not to attempt the passage of these
+flats again till the weather should be so clear that we might ascertain
+their extent, and see in what way they might be passed with less risk.
+Fog is, of all others, the most hazardous state of the atmosphere for
+navigation in an icy sea, especially when it is accompanied by strong
+breezes, but particularly so for boats where the shore is
+unapproachable. If caught by a gale, a heavy swell, or drifting ice, the
+result must be their wreck, or the throwing the provisions overboard to
+lighten them, so as to proceed into shoal water. Many large pieces of
+ice were seen on the borders of the shallow water; and from the lowness
+of the temperature, we concluded that the main body was at no great
+distance. We had also passed through a stream of perfectly fresh water,
+which we supposed was poured out from a large river in the intermediate
+vicinity, but the fog prevented our seeing its outlet. [Sidenote:
+Saturday, 12th.] The atmosphere was equally foggy throughout the night,
+and all the 12th, although the wind had changed to the east, and blew a
+strong breeze. Winds from this quarter had been extremely prevalent
+since the preceding April: but on our former visit to the Polar Sea,
+they had been of rare occurrence, and confined to the spring months,
+which we passed at Fort Enterprize. The obstinate continuance of fog
+forms another material difference between this season and the same
+period of 1821. We were only detained three times in navigating along
+the coast that year to the east of the Coppermine River; but on this
+voyage hardly a day passed after our departure from the Mackenzie that
+the atmosphere was not, at some time, so foggy as to hide every object
+more distant than four or five miles. The day that I visited Mount
+Conybeare, and that spent on Flaxman Island, form the only exceptions to
+this remark. A question, therefore, suggests itself:--Whence arises this
+difference? which, I presume, can be best answered by reference to the
+greater accumulation of ice on this coast, and to the low and very
+swampy nature of the land. There is a constant exhalation of moisture
+from the ice and swamps during the summer months, which is, perhaps,
+prevented from being carried off by the vicinity of the Rocky Mountains,
+and, therefore, becomes condensed into a fog. The coast to the eastward
+of the Coppermine River is high and dry, and far less encumbered with
+ice.
+
+Some deer appearing near the encampment, a party was despatched in
+pursuit of them; but having been previously fired at by Augustus, they
+proved too wary. The exertions of the men were, however, rewarded by the
+capture of some geese and ducks. The whole of the vegetation had now
+assumed the autumnal tint.
+
+[Sidenote: Sunday, 13th.] There was not the least abatement in the wind,
+or change in the murky atmosphere, throughout the 13th. The party
+assembled at divine service, and afterwards amused themselves as they
+could in their tents, which were now so saturated with wet as to be very
+comfortless abodes; and in order to keep ourselves tolerably warm we
+were obliged to cover the feet with blankets; our protracted stay
+having caused such a great expenditure of the drift-wood, that we found
+it necessary to be frugal in its use, and only to light the fire when we
+wanted to cook the meals. The nights, too, we regretted to find, were
+lengthening very fast; so that from ten P.M. to two A.M., there was too
+little light for proceeding in any unknown tract.
+
+[Sidenote: Monday, 14th.] The wind this day was moderate, but the fog
+was more dense, and very wet. Tired, however, of the confinement of the
+tent, most of the party wandered out in search of amusement, though we
+could not see one hundred yards; and some partridges, ducks, and geese,
+were shot.
+
+[Sidenote: Tuesday, 15th.] The fog was dispersed at seven in the morning
+of the 15th, by a north-east gale, which created too great a surf on the
+beach for us to launch the boats, and the fog returned in the evening.
+The temperature fell to 35 degrees, and in the course of the night ice
+was formed on the small pools near the encampment. Augustus set off in
+the afternoon to cross over to the main shore for the purpose of
+hunting, and to see whether there were any traces of the western
+Esquimaux, but he found none, and only saw three rein-deer.
+
+[Sidenote: Wednesday, 16th.] The weather again became clear, after the
+sun rose, on the 16th, and we embarked as soon as the flowing of the
+tide enabled us to launch the boats, all in the highest spirits at the
+prospect of escaping from this detestable island. We took advantage of
+the fair wind, set the sails, and steered to the westward parallel to
+the coast. We had never more than from three to six feet water, for the
+first seven miles, until we had passed round the reef that projects from
+the point we had so often attempted to reach, and which was named Point
+Anxiety.
+
+Between Point Anxiety and Point Chandos, which is eight miles further to
+the westward, the land was occasionally seen; but after rounding the
+latter point we lost sight of it, and steered to the westward across the
+mouth of Yarborough Inlet, the soundings varying from five feet to five
+fathoms. The fog returned, and the wind freshening, soon created such a
+swell upon the flats, that it became necessary to haul further from the
+land; but the drift ice beginning to close around us, we could no longer
+proceed with safety, and, therefore, endeavoured to find a
+landing-place. An attempt was made at Point Herald, and another on the
+western point of Prudhoe bay, but both were frustrated by the shoalness
+of the water, and the height of the surf. The increasing violence of the
+gale, however, and density of the fog, rendering it absolutely
+necessary for us to obtain some shelter, we stood out to seaward, with
+the view of making fast to a large piece of ice. In our way we fell
+among gravelly reefs, and arriving at the same time suddenly in smooth
+water, we effected a landing on one of them. A temporary dispersion of
+the fog showed that we were surrounded with banks nearly on a level with
+the water, and protected to seaward by a large body of ice lying
+aground. The patch of gravel on which we were encamped, was about five
+hundred yards in circumference, destitute of water, and with no more
+drift wood than a few willow branches, sufficient to make one fire.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+Commence Return to the Mackenzie--Delayed again at Foggy Island--Ice
+packed on the Reefs near Beaufort Bay, and on the Coast about Clarence
+River--Pass the Channels near Herschel Island in a Gale and Fog--A
+sudden Gale--Escape an Attack which the Mountain Indians meditated--Enter
+the Mackenzie--Peel River--Arrival at Fort Franklin.
+
+
+[Sidenote: Wednesday, 16th.] The period had now arrived when it was
+incumbent on me to consider, whether the prospect of our attaining the
+object of the voyage was sufficiently encouraging to warrant the
+exposure of the party to daily increasing risk, by continuing on. We
+were now only half way from the Mackenzie River to Icy Cape; and the
+chance of reaching the latter, depended on the nature of the coast that
+was yet unexplored, and the portion of the summer which yet remained for
+our operations.
+
+I knew, from the descriptions of Cook and Burney, that the shore about
+Icy Cape resembled that we had already passed, in being flat, and
+difficult of approach; while the general trending of the coast from the
+Mackenzie to the west-north-west, nearly in the direction of Icy Cape,
+combined with the information we had collected from the Esquimaux, led
+me to conclude that no material change would be found in the
+intermediate portion.
+
+The preceding narrative shows the difficulties of navigating such a
+coast, even during the finest part of the summer; if, indeed, any
+portion of a season which had been marked by a constant succession of
+fogs and gales could be called fine. No opportunity of advancing had
+been let slip, after the time of our arrival in the Arctic Sea; and the
+unwearied zeal and exertion of the crews had been required, for an
+entire month, to explore the ten degrees of longitude between Herschel
+Island and our present situation, I had, therefore, no reason to suppose
+that the ten remaining degrees could be navigated in much less time. The
+ice, it is true, was more broken up, and the sea around our present
+encampment was clear; but we had lately seen how readily the drift ice
+was packed upon the shoals by every breeze of wind blowing towards the
+land. The summer, bad as it had been, was now nearly at an end, and on
+this point I had the experience of the former voyage for a guide. At
+Point Turn-again, two degrees to the south of our present situation,
+the comparatively warm summer of 1821 was terminated on the 17th of
+August, by severe storms of wind and snow; and in the space of a
+fortnight afterwards, winter set in with all its severity. Last year,
+too, on the 18th and following days of the same month, we had a heavy
+gale at the mouth of the Mackenzie; and appearances did not indicate
+that the present season would prove more favourable. The mean
+temperature of the atmosphere had decreased rapidly since the sun had
+begun to sink below the horizon, and the thermometer had not lately
+shown a higher temperature than 37 degrees. Ice, of considerable
+thickness, formed in the night, and the number of the flocks of geese
+which were hourly seen pursuing their course to the westward, showed
+that their autumnal flight had commenced.
+
+While a hope remained of reaching Behring Straits, I looked upon the
+hazard to which we had, on several occasions, been exposed, of shipwreck
+on the flats, or on the ice, as inseparable from a voyage of the nature
+of that which we had undertaken; and if such an accident had occurred, I
+should have hoped, with a sufficient portion of the summer before me, to
+conduct my party in safety back to the Mackenzie. But the loss of the
+boats when we should have been far advanced, and at the end of the
+season, would have been fatal. The deer hasten from the coast as soon as
+the snow falls; no Esquimaux had been lately seen, nor any
+winter-houses, to denote that this part of the coast was much
+frequented; and if we did meet them under adverse circumstances, we
+could not, with safety, trust to their assistance for a supply of
+provision; nor do I believe that, if willing, even they would have been
+able to support our party for any length of time.
+
+Till our tedious detention at Foggy Island, we had had no doubt of
+ultimate success; and it was with no ordinary pain that I could now
+bring myself even to think of relinquishing the great object of my
+ambition, and of disappointing the flattering confidence that had been
+reposed in my exertions. But I had higher duties to perform than the
+gratification of my own feelings; and a mature consideration of all the
+above matters forced me to the conclusion, that we had reached that
+point beyond which perseverance would be rashness, and our best efforts
+must be fruitless. In order to put the reader completely in possession
+of the motives which would have influenced me, had I been entirely a
+free agent, I have mentioned them without allusion to the clause in my
+instructions which directed me to commence my return on the 15th or 20th
+of August, "if, in consequence of slow progress, or other unforeseen
+accident, it should remain doubtful whether we should be able to reach
+Kotzebue's Inlet the same season."
+
+In the evening I communicated my determination to the whole party; they
+received it with the good feeling that had marked their conduct
+throughout the voyage, and they assured me of their cheerful
+acquiescence in any order I should give. The readiness with which they
+would have prosecuted the voyage, had it been advisable to do so, was
+the more creditable, because many of them had their legs swelled and
+inflamed from continually wading in ice-cold water while launching the
+boats, not only when we accidentally ran on shore, but every time that
+it was requisite to embark, or to land upon this shallow coast. Nor were
+these symptoms to be overlooked in coming to a determination; for though
+no one who knows the resolute disposition of British sailors can be
+surprised at their more than readiness to proceed, I felt that it was my
+business to judge of their capability of so doing, and not to allow
+myself to be seduced by their ardour, however honourable to them, and
+cheering to me.
+
+Compelled as I was to come to the determination of returning, it is a
+great satisfaction to me to know, as I now do, that the reasons which
+induced me to take this step were well-founded. This will appear by the
+following extract from Captain Beechey's official account of his
+proceedings in advancing eastward from Icy Cape, with which I have been
+favoured.
+
+"Mr. Elson, (the master,) after quitting the ship off Icy Cape, on the
+18th August, had proceeded along the coast without interruption, until
+the 22nd of the month, when he arrived off a very low sandy spit, beyond
+which, to the eastward, the coast formed a bay, with a more easterly
+trending than that on the west side; but it was so low that it could not
+be traced far, and became blended with the ice before it reached the
+horizon. It was found impossible to proceed round the spit, in
+consequence of the ice being grounded upon it, and extending to the
+horizon in every direction, except that by which the boat had advanced,
+and was so compact that no openings were seen in any part of it. This
+point, which is the most northern part of the continent yet known, lies
+in latitude, by meridian altitude of the sun, 71 degrees 23 minutes 39
+seconds N.; and longitude, by several sets of lunar distances, both
+observed on an iceberg, 156 degrees 21 minutes W.; and is situated one
+hundred and twenty miles beyond Icy Cape. Between these two stations,
+and, indeed, to the southward of the latter, the coast is very flat,
+abounding in lakes and rivers, which are too shallow to be entered by
+anything but a baidar. The greater part of the coast is thickly
+inhabited by Esquimaux, who have their winter-habitations close to the
+beach.
+
+"The barge had not been off this point sufficiently long to complete the
+necessary observations, when the same westerly wind, which had induced
+me to proceed round Cape Lisburn, brought the ice down upon the coast,
+and left the boat no retreat. It at the same time occasioned a current
+along shore to the northward, at the rate of three and four miles per
+hour. The body of ice took the ground in six and seven fathoms water,
+but pieces of a lighter draft filled up the space between it and the
+shore, and, hurried along by the impetuosity of the current, drove the
+barge ashore, but fortunately without staving her. By the exertions of
+her officers and crew she was extricated from this perilous situation,
+and attempts were made to track her along the land wherever openings
+occurred, in execution of which the greatest fatigue was endured by all
+her crew. At length all efforts proving ineffectual, and the spaces
+between the ice and the shore becoming frozen over, it was proposed to
+abandon the boat, and the crew to make their way along the coast to
+Kotzebue Sound, before the season should be too far advanced.
+Preparations were accordingly made; and that the boat might not be
+irrevocably lost to the ship, it was determined to get her into one of
+the lakes, and there sink her, that the natives might not break her up,
+and from which she might be extricated the following summer, should the
+ship return. During this period of their difficulties they received much
+assistance from the natives, who, for a little tobacco, put their hands
+to the tow-rope. Their conduct had, in the first instance, been
+suspicious; but in the time of their greatest distress, they were well
+disposed, bringing venison, seal's flesh, oil, &c., and offered up a
+prayer that the wind would blow off the shore, and liberate the boat
+from her critical situation. Before the necessary arrangements were made
+respecting the barge, appearances took a more favourable turn; the ice
+began to move off shore, and after much tracking, &c., the boat was got
+clear, and made the best of her way toward the sound; but off Cape
+Lisburn she met with a gale of wind, which blew in eddies so violently,
+that it is said the spray was carried up to the tops of the mountains;
+and the boat, during this trial, behaved so well, that not a moment's
+anxiety for her safety was entertained. I must not close the account
+without expressing my warm approbation of the conduct of Mr. Elson."
+
+The barge rejoined Captain Beechey on the 10th September, at Chamisso
+Island, the Blossom having gone thither to wood and water, and being
+further forced to quit the coast to the northward, in consequence of
+strong westerly winds.
+
+Could I have known, or by possibility imagined, that a party from the
+Blossom had been at the distance of only one hundred and sixty miles
+from me, no difficulties, dangers, or discouraging circumstances, should
+have prevailed on me to return; but taking into account the uncertainty
+of all voyages in a sea obstructed by ice, I had no right to expect that
+the Blossom had advanced beyond Kotzebue Inlet, or that any party from
+her had doubled Icy Cape. It is useless now to speculate on the probable
+result of a proceeding which did not take place; but I may observe,
+that, had we gone forward as soon as the weather permitted, namely, on
+the 18th, it is scarcely possible that any change of circumstances could
+have enabled us to overtake the Blossom's barge.[3]
+
+[Sidenote: Thursday, 17th.] The wind changed to N.E. after midnight, the
+squalls were more violent, and in the morning of the 17th such a surf
+was beating on the borders of the reef, that the boats could not be
+launched. The fog disappeared before the gale about eleven, and during
+the afternoon we enjoyed the clearest atmosphere that we had witnessed
+since our departure from Mount Conybeare. This was the first opportunity
+there had been, for the seven preceding days, of making astronomical
+observations, and we gladly took advantage of it, to observe the
+latitude, 70 degrees 26 minutes N.; longitude 148 degrees 52 minutes W.;
+and variation 41 degrees 20 minutes E. We had likewise the gratification
+of being able to trace the land round Gwydyr Bay, to its outer point,
+bearing S. 79 W. ten miles, which I have named after my excellent
+companion Lieutenant Back, and of seeing a still more westerly hummock,
+bearing S. 84 W., about fifteen miles, that has been distinguished by
+the name of my friend Captain Beechey; at which point, in latitude 70
+degrees 24 minutes N., longitude 149 degrees 37 minutes W., our
+discoveries terminated. The fog returned at sunset, and as the wind was
+piercingly cold, and we had neither fire nor room for exercise, we crept
+between the blankets, as the only means of keeping ourselves warm.
+
+[Sidenote: Friday, 18th.] The gale having considerably abated, and the
+weather being clear, we quitted Return Reef on the morning of the 18th,
+and began to retrace our way towards the Mackenzie. As the waves were
+still very high to seaward, we attempted to proceed inside of the reefs,
+but as the boats were constantly taking the ground, we availed ourselves
+of the first channel that was sufficiently deep to pull on the outside
+of them. The swell being too great there for the use of the oars, the
+sails were set double reefed, and the boats beat to the eastward against
+the wind, between the drift ice and the shallow water.
+
+A gale rose after noon from N.E. by N., which enabled us to shape a
+course for Foggy Island, where we arrived at three P.M., just at a time
+when the violence of the squalls, and the increased height of the swell,
+would have rendered further proceeding very hazardous. We now enjoyed
+the comforts of a good fire and a warm meal, which we had not had since
+the evening of the 16th. The men were afterwards employed in erecting a
+square pile of drift timber, on the highest part of the island fronting
+the sea, on which a red cornet flag was left flying, and underneath it
+was deposited, in a tin case, a letter for Captain Parry, containing an
+account of our proceedings; also a silver medal and a halfpenny: and in
+order that government might have some chance of hearing of our
+proceedings, should any accident subsequently befal the party, there was
+also deposited an unsealed letter, wrapped in bark, addressed to the
+Russian Fur Traders, in the expectation that the Esquimaux might
+probably convey it to their Establishment. An ice-chisel, a knife, a
+file, and a hatchet, were hung up on the pile, for the Esquimaux. On
+digging to erect these posts, the ground was found frozen at the depth
+of sixteen inches; and the thermometer, during the day, seldom rose
+above 37 degrees. This evening the temperature was 33 degrees.
+[Sidenote: Saturday, 19th.] We were vexatiously detained the 19th, and
+following day, by the continuance of the gale, and a thick fog; during
+which time many large flocks of geese were observed passing away to the
+westward. The tides were now much higher than during our first visit.
+
+[Sidenote: Monday, 21st.] The breeze was moderate on the morning of the
+21st, yet we were prevented from embarking until ten o'clock, by the
+return of the fog. We then hastened to escape from this ill-omened
+island. The boats were pulled to seaward, so as to gain a sufficient
+offing for them to pass on the outside of the shallow water; and by the
+aid of the oars and sails we made good progress, and encamped within
+sight of Flaxman Island. A black whale, a seal of the largest kind, and
+numerous flocks of geese were seen in the course of this day. Several
+stars were visible after ten P.M. [Sidenote: Tuesday, 22nd.] Showers of
+snow fell during the night, but the morning of the 22nd was calm and
+clear. We embarked at daylight, and in the course of three hours arrived
+abreast of the east end of Flaxman Island. The ice had broken from the
+northern shore during our absence, and was now lying about a mile from
+the land, apparently aground on reefs, as we had observed it to be along
+the outer border of the one at the west end of the island. The water was
+much deeper between Flaxman Island and the main than when we passed in
+the early part of August. Eastward of Point Brownlow there was an open
+channel of three or four miles wide. And by keeping close to the borders
+of the drift ice we avoided the shallows at the mouth of the Canning
+River, and arrived at Boulder Island about noon. Here we found an
+Esquimaux grave, containing three bodies, covered with drift timber, and
+by their side there were placed the canoes, arrows, and fishing
+implements of the deceased. Not being able to procure fresh water here,
+we set forward to cross Camden Bay, touched at one of the points to fill
+the water-casks, and reached Barter Island after dark; the crews much
+fatigued, having been pulling for nineteen hours. We regretted to find
+the Esquimaux had visited this spot during our absence, and carried away
+the gun and ammunition which had been left by mistake at the encampment
+on the 4th of August, because we were not only apprehensive that some
+accident might have occurred in the attempt to discharge the gun, but
+were desirous to prevent the introduction of fire-arms among these
+people. [Sidenote: Wednesday, 23rd.] Being now near the point of the
+coast at which we had seen a considerable number of the natives, we
+remained at the encampment until ten o'clock on the morning of the 23d,
+to clean the guns and issue a fresh supply of ammunition to the party.
+The day was calm and cloudless; the whole range of the Romanzoff
+Mountains was in sight, and they appeared to be more covered with snow
+than when we passed to the westward. A few musquitoes made their
+appearance, but they were very feeble. Having landed at Point Manning to
+replenish the water-casks, we afterwards pulled throughout the day close
+to the edge of the ice, which was still heavy, though loose, and
+encamped near Point Griffin. Some large-sized medusæ, and several of the
+gelatinous substances known to seamen by the name of blubber, were found
+on the beach, which accounted for the number of black ducks that had
+been seen in the course of the day, as they feed on those substances.
+The temperature varied this day from 35 degrees to 46 degrees; and the
+thermometer rose to 64 degrees at two P.M., when exposed to the sun's
+rays.
+
+[Sidenote: Thursday, 24th.] The morning of the 24th was calm; we set
+forward at daylight, and having proceeded a few miles between heavy
+floating ice, about half a mile from the shore we met with a large sheet
+of bay ice of last night's formation, of sufficient thickness to impede
+though not to stop the boats. Having arrived abreast of Point Humphrys,
+we steered out to seaward, for the purpose of avoiding the shallows that
+extend across Beaufort Bay, intending to direct our course in a line for
+Mount Conybeare, which was in sight. We were then exposed to a long
+rolling swell, and we soon afterwards perceived that it had driven the
+ice upon the reefs at the eastern extremity of the bay, which would have
+precluded our retreat to the shore in the event of the wind rising. It
+therefore became necessary to penetrate into the pack, and keep by the
+side of the reefs; but in doing so, the boats were exposed to no little
+danger of being broken in passing through the narrow channels between
+the masses of ice which were tossing with the swell, and from which
+large pieces frequently fell. At six P.M. we passed our former
+encampment on Icy Reef, and afterwards proceeded through an open space
+to Demarcation Point, where we encamped, and hauled up the boats to
+prevent them from being injured by the surf. We found here two families
+of Esquimaux, which belonged to the party that had been to Barter
+Island, waiting the return of a man from hunting, in order to follow
+their companions to the eastward. They showed much joy at seeing us
+again, and remained the greater part of the night talking with Augustus.
+The most active young man of the party, not thinking himself
+sufficiently smart for the occasion, retired to the oomiak to change his
+dress and mouth ornaments, capering about on his return, evidently proud
+of his gayer appearance.
+
+[Sidenote: Friday, 25th.] The morning was foggy, but there being little
+wind, we launched the boats, and pulled for an hour close to the shore,
+when we came to a body of ice so closely packed as scarcely to afford a
+passage, and it was with difficulty that we arrived at Clarence River.
+There we perceived four tents; near which we had been warned by our
+visitors last night not to land, as the party had recently lost their
+parents, and it was feared that, in the state of mind in which they then
+were, they might be disposed to do us some injury. We pulled near enough
+to inquire about the gun, and learned that the person who had it was
+farther to the eastward. The difficulties of forcing a passage were not
+diminished beyond this place, and we were further impeded in our
+advance by new ice formed between the larger masses, which required
+additional labour to break through. The fog cleared away at ten; we
+halted to breakfast at Backhouse River, and remained whilst Augustus
+went in pursuit of two rein-deer, one of which he killed.
+
+Renewing our course, we passed on the outside of the ice until we were
+nearly abreast of Mount Conybeare, when the wind came strong from the
+eastward, and obliged us to have recourse again to its shelter. This
+barrier, however, terminated at the end of five miles, and being then
+exposed to the wind and swell, against which the men were unable to
+pull, we encamped.
+
+The experience we had now gained of the ice being packed upon this shore
+by a wind from the sea, assured us of the correctness of the report
+which the Esquimaux had given, and likewise afforded a reason for their
+expression of surprise at our being unprovided with sledges, as it was
+evident, unless a strong wind blew from the land, that the new ice would
+soon unite the pack with the shore, and preclude the possibility of
+making the passage in boats, unless by going outside of the ice, which
+would be extremely hazardous, from the want of shelter in the event of a
+gale springing up. The pieces of ice were generally from ten to fifteen
+feet in height, many of them were from twenty to thirty feet: their
+length was from twenty to one hundred yards. We saw several white whales
+in the open water, and a flock of white geese at the encampment, which
+were the first noticed on this coast. The rising of the wind from E.N.E.
+this afternoon was accompanied by an increase of temperature from 43
+degrees to 53 degrees, and we felt a comfortable sensation of warmth, to
+which we had been strangers for the preceding month.
+
+[Sidenote: Saturday, 26th.] We took advantage of a favourable breeze to
+embark before daylight on the morning of the 26th; at sunrise it
+increased to a gale, and raised a heavy sea. In two hours we ran to the
+commencement of the intricate channels leading to Herschel Island, where
+the Esquimaux seen at Barter Island were encamped on a reef, and
+apparently gazing in astonishment at the speed of our boats. They made
+many signs for us to land, which we were desirous of doing had it been
+practicable for the surf. That the boats might be perfectly manageable,
+we took two reefs in the sails, and shaped the course for Herschel
+Island; but scarcely were the sails reset before a fog came on that
+hid every mark that could guide us; a heavy swell was rolling at the
+time, and to arrive at the island we had to pass through a channel only
+about two hundred yards broad. To find this, surrounded as it was by
+shoals, in the midst of a dense fog, was a task of considerable anxiety
+and danger, and our situation was not rendered more agreeable by being
+assailed the whole way with continued shouting from persons to us
+invisible; our arrival having been communicated by the Esquimaux who
+first descried us, to their companions on the neighbouring reefs. We
+effected it, however, and landed in safety, though we did not discover
+the island till we were within forty yards of its shore. We had scarcely
+landed before the fog dispersed, and discovered to us a solitary tent on
+an adjacent point. Three men soon paid us a visit, whom we had not seen
+before, and they informed us that nearly the whole of the tribe was now
+collected in the vicinity for the purpose of hunting deer, and catching
+whales and seals for the winter's consumption. We quitted the island at
+ten A.M., and steered directly for Point Kay, to avoid the sinuosities
+of the coast, and the frequent interruption of the Esquimaux, whose
+tents were observed to be scattered on the beach nearly the whole way to
+Babbage River. Three men and some women came off to bring us fish, and
+being liberally rewarded, they went away perfectly happy, singing the
+praises of the white people. We passed round Point Kay at four P.M.,
+with a moderate breeze from W.N.W., and steered for Point King, keeping
+about two miles from the land. As the afternoon wore away, gloomy clouds
+gathered in the north-west; and at six a violent squall came from that
+quarter, attended with snow and sleet. The gale increased with rapidity:
+in less than ten minutes the sea was white with foam, and such waves
+were raised as I had never before been exposed to in a boat. The spray
+and sea broke over us incessantly, and it was with difficulty that we
+could keep free by baling. Our little vessels went through the water
+with great velocity under a close-reefed sail, hoisted about three feet
+up the main-mast, and proved themselves to be very buoyant. Their small
+size, however, and the nature of their construction, necessarily adapted
+for the navigation of shallow rivers, unfitting them for withstanding
+the sea then running, we were in imminent danger of foundering. I
+therefore resolved on making for the shore, as the only means of saving
+the party, although I was aware that, in so doing, I incurred the hazard
+of staving the boats, there being few places on this part of the coast
+where there was sufficient beach under the broken cliffs. The wind
+blowing along the land we could not venture on exposing the boat's side
+to the sea by hauling directly in, but, edging away with the wind on the
+quarter, we most providentially took the ground in a favourable spot.
+The boats were instantly filled with the surf, but they were unloaded
+and dragged up without having sustained any material damage. Impressed
+with a sense of gratitude for the signal deliverance we had experienced
+on this and other occasions, we assembled in the evening to offer up
+praise and thanksgiving to the Almighty.
+
+[Sidenote: Sunday, 27th.] On the 27th the weather was calm; but as a
+heavy surf prevented our embarkation, we took advantage of the delay to
+dry our bedding, clothes, and pemmican. The guns were likewise cleaned,
+and every thing put in order. There was an Esquimaux party at this spot,
+which had witnessed the landing of the boats in the storm with
+astonishment, having expected to see every man drowned. Augustus passed
+the night at their tents; and having brought the whole party to our
+encampment, the women, with much good nature, sewed soles of seal-skins
+to the men's mocassins, in order to fit them better for the operation of
+tracking, in which they were soon to be employed. These Esquimaux had
+recently returned from a visit to the gang that had pillaged the boats
+at the mouth of the Mackenzie; and we now learned the intention that had
+been entertained of destroying our party, along with the other
+particulars that have been already mentioned.
+
+[Sidenote: Monday, 28th.] Our approach to the Mackenzie was marked by
+the quantity of drift timber floating about. We passed several families
+of the natives, without visiting them, until we perceived one party
+taking some fish from their nets, which tempted us to land. The fish
+were large _tittameg_ and _inconnû_, and proved remarkably fine. We
+again embarked, but having to pull head to the sea, we took in much
+water, and were glad to seek shelter on a gravel reef, where three
+Esquimaux tents were pitched. The whole party quickly mustered around
+us, and we were not a little surprised to find so many inhabitants as
+twenty-seven, including women and children, in three tents only; but on
+inquiry we found that the number was not greater than usual. Two of the
+men were very aged and feeble, the rest were young and active. They
+practise jumping, as an amusement, from their youth; and we had an
+opportunity of witnessing some of their feats, which displayed much
+agility. The women cheerfully repaired our mocassins, and their
+industry, as well as the good conduct of the men, were rewarded by some
+valuable presents. We were astonished to learn that there had been fog
+only a day and a half in this neighbourhood since we passed, but the
+wind had been generally strong. Augustus gained some information
+respecting the western Esquimaux, and the coast to the westward, which
+he did not communicate to me until some days afterwards, otherwise I
+should have endeavoured to elicit more satisfactory details. It was to
+the following purport:--The western Esquimaux having purchased the furs
+from those men that dwell near the Mackenzie, at Barter Island, proceed
+to the westward again without delay. A few days journey beyond a part of
+the coast which Augustus understood from description to be Return Reef,
+the sea is still more shallow than that which we had navigated, and the
+water is still, except at certain periods of the year, when it is
+agitated like a strong rapid, by the efflux of the waters of a deep
+inlet, or strait. The land is visible on both sides from the middle of
+this opening; the Esquimaux make for the west side, and on reaching it
+relinquish their canoes, and drag their furs overland to the Russian
+establishments, which are situated in the interior, where the land is
+more elevated than on the coast. The Mountain Indians come down annually
+in large parties to this inlet, and warm contests often arise between
+them and the Esquimaux. The latter are frequently worsted, from their
+inferior numbers, and lose their property, which the Indians bring by
+land to the neighbourhood of Herschel Island, to dispose of to the
+Esquimaux in that quarter. The direction of the inlet was supposed, by
+Augustus, to be about south-west. I am inclined to think that it is the
+estuary of a large river, flowing to the west of the Rocky Mountains,
+obstructed by sand-banks, like the mouth of the Mackenzie. In the course
+of the day three Esquimaux, who had seen our tent from a distance, came
+to visit us. One of them was recognised to have been of the party which
+attacked us at the mouth of the Mackenzie. He gave Augustus a detailed
+account of their schemes on that occasion, which exactly corresponded
+with that we had received on the preceding day. He further told us that
+the party which had assailed us had certainly removed to the eastward;
+but if any of them should have remained, to watch our motions, they
+could be avoided by entering the river by a more westerly branch than
+the one which we had descended, and offered to guide us thither. This
+man was very intelligent, and having carefully examined the boats,
+intimated that he would construct an oomiak after the same plan. We
+embarked at four in the evening with our new friend for a guide, and in
+a short time arrived at the main shore where his tent stood, and where
+he asked the party to encamp, as he intended to go no farther. We were
+not, however, so disposed; and having filled the casks with fresh water,
+and made some presents to the women, we pushed off to take advantage of
+the remaining daylight in getting round a reef which projected far
+seaward. We could not effect this, and at sunset, not being able to land
+on the reef on account of the shallowness of the water, we put back to
+within a mile and a half of the Esquimaux tents. Garry Island was seen
+soon after sunset; and the aurora borealis appeared in the night for the
+first time this season. The temperature of the air varied from 30
+degrees to 49 degrees, and that of the sea water was 37 degrees 2
+minutes, a quarter of a mile from the shore. [Sidenote: Tuesday, 29th.]
+A gale coming on in the night, and continuing till the following
+evening, detained us on shore. During our stay we were visited by a
+numerous party of Esquimaux, and found it necessary to draw a line round
+the tents, which they were not permitted to pass. These people told us
+that Dr. Richardson's party had been seen clear of the Mackenzie, and
+had given kettles to men in three canoes, after escaping an attempt made
+by the Esquimaux to drag the boats on shore. This account, showing that
+the propensity to plunder was not confined to the Esquimaux with whom we
+had met, excited painful apprehensions for the safety of the eastern
+party, if they should find it necessary to return by the Mackenzie,
+because we now learned that the natives collect in numbers near its
+mouth at the close of summer. In ordinary seasons the weather is mild,
+and the winds variable until the ice breaks up, which is usually about
+the end of August, when north-west winds, and stormy weather, are
+expected. In this season, however, the winds had been so boisterous that
+the Esquimaux had seldom been able to venture out to sea, and their
+whale fishery had consequently failed. Our visitors left us about two
+P.M.; but, shortly afterwards, we heard loud cries, and on looking round
+saw two young Esquimaux running in breathless haste to announce that a
+large party of Indians had come down from the mountains with the express
+purpose of attacking the boats and killing every man of the party. They
+desired us to embark instantly, as the only means of escape; for the
+Indians, they said, were already at the tents within our view, and when
+they left them they were on the point of spreading round us to commence
+the onset. They further said, that the Indians, having been provoked by
+our trading with the Esquimaux, had been along the coast in search of
+us, and that it was only this afternoon they had espied our tents,
+which, by the fluttering in the wind, they knew did not belong to the
+Esquimaux. On this discovery they had come to the nearest party of
+Esquimaux to make known their intention, and to request their aid. They
+were met by our two young friends, who were out hunting, but who
+returned with them to their tents, and after learning the plans in
+agitation, had stolen off to apprize us of our danger. As soon as Spinks
+returned, who had gone to shoot, we shoved off; and never were men more
+delighted than our two Esquimaux friends seemed to be at our escape; and
+especially at that of Augustus, to save whom, they asserted more than
+once, was their principal motive in coming to us. While Spinks was out
+of sight, they climbed up to the top of an old house to look for him,
+with the greatest apparent solicitude, and were the first to discover
+him returning. Up to the time of his arrival they kept repeating every
+particular respecting the Indians, and pointing out the mode of avoiding
+them. It was their intention, they said, to pursue us to the Mackenzie,
+but that we should get there before them, because there were two rivers
+in the way which the Indians would have great difficulty in crossing,
+being unprovided with canoes. They urged us to make all speed, and not
+to halt in the night, nor to go to sleep; but, if the crew became tired,
+to put up on an island out of gun-shot of the main shore, because the
+Indians were armed with guns as well as bows. They instructed Augustus
+minutely as to the course we were to steer round the reef, and directed
+us to keep along the main shore until we should come to a large opening,
+which was the western outlet of the Mackenzie, and had a deep channel.
+We rewarded their friendly conduct by a considerable present of iron,
+which they received with an indifference that showed them not to have
+been actuated by interested motives in making the communications.
+Previous to the arrival of these men we had perceived the smoke of a
+distant fire, which we had little regarded, supposing it to have been
+made by some Esquimaux who were hunting, but which, it seems, was the
+fire of the Indians. Having pulled round the reef, and being aided by a
+westerly breeze, we soon regained the main shore, and passed the mouth
+of the two rivers of which the Esquimaux had spoken. The night beginning
+to close in we pulled up to the head of an inlet; when heavy rain and
+squalls coming on, we determined to halt. [Sidenote: Wednesday, 30th.]
+As soon as the day dawned, which was about half-past two in the morning,
+we returned to Shoal Water Bay; and, sailing along the coast for two or
+three miles to the eastward, arrived at another opening, in which the
+water was fresh, and we did not doubt but it would prove the deep
+channel by which we had been instructed to ascend. There was plenty of
+water near its mouth, but it gradually shoaled; and, at the distance of
+four miles, we ascertained that this promising opening was likewise an
+inlet. I now relinquished the search for a more westerly outlet than the
+one by which we had descended, and, therefore, steered for Pillage
+Point, which soon afterwards came in sight. After dragging the boats
+for two hours, over the shoals, we rounded Pillage Point at ten A.M.,
+and reached the deep water most opportunely; for, almost at the instant,
+a violent north-west gale came on, attended by thunder, lightning, and
+torrents of rain. The wind, however, was fair, and brought so much water
+into the channel of the river, that we passed, without obstruction, the
+shallow parts above Pillage Point. A temporary cessation of the rain at
+noon enabled us to land to breakfast; and we afterwards continued to
+scud before the gale until sunset, when we encamped. The temperature
+fell from 48 degrees to 40 degrees in the gale, and we had several
+showers of snow.
+
+During the above run Augustus entertained us with an account, which he
+had learned from the two Esquimaux, respecting the Mountain Indians; the
+substance was as follows:--Seven men of that tribe had been to Herschel
+Island to trade with the Esquimaux, who showed them the different
+articles they had received from us, and informed them of our being still
+on the coast, and that our return by this route was not improbable. This
+intelligence they set off at once to communicate to the rest of their
+tribe, who, supposing that we should ruin their trade with the
+Esquimaux, resolved on coming down in a body to destroy us; and that
+they might travel with expedition, their wives and families were left
+behind. They came to the sea coast by the Mountain Indian River,
+opposite Herschel Island, and finding that we had not returned, but
+supposing it possible that we might pass them there, as they had no
+canoes to intercept us, they determined on travelling to the mouth of
+the Mackenzie, where they could conveniently subsist by fishing and
+hunting until our arrival. They had been informed of the manner in which
+we had been robbed by the Esquimaux at that place, and they formed a
+similar plan of operations. When our crews were wading and launching the
+boats over the flats in Shoal Water Bay, a few of them were to have
+offered their assistance, which they imagined would be readily accepted,
+as we should probably take them for Indians belonging to the Loucheux
+tribe, with whom we were acquainted. While pretending to aid us they
+were to have watched an opportunity of staving the boats, so as to
+prevent them from floating in the deeper channel, which runs close to
+the land near Pillage Point. The rest of the party, on a signal being
+given, were then to rush forth from their concealment, and join in the
+assault. They were, in pursuance of this plan, travelling towards the
+Mackenzie, when they discovered our tents; and it appeared that the two
+young men who brought us the intelligence, had been sent as an act of
+gratitude by an old Esquimaux, to whom we had given a knife and some
+other things, on the preceding day. After hearing the plans of the
+Indians, he called the young men aside and said to them, "These white
+people have been kind to us, and they are few in number, why should we
+suffer them to be killed? You are active young men, run and tell them to
+depart instantly." The messengers suggested that we had guns, and could
+defend ourselves. "True," said he, "against a small force, but not
+against so large a body of Indians as this, who are likewise armed with
+guns, and who will crawl under cover of the drift timber, so as to
+surround them before they are aware; run, therefore, and tell them not
+to lose a moment in getting away, and to be careful to avoid the flats
+at the mouth of the river by entering the western channel."
+
+As the goods which the Mountain Indians exchange with the Esquimaux at
+Herschel Island, are very unlike those issued from any of the Hudson's
+Bay Company's posts, I conclude that they obtain them from the Russians;
+but the traders of that nation being prohibited by their government from
+supplying guns to any Indians, I am at a loss to account for these
+people having them;--perhaps, the prohibition only applies to the
+Esquimaux, or the people on the sea coast. That the Mountain Indians
+have fire-arms we learned, not only on the present occasion, but in our
+first interview with the Esquimaux, at Herschel Island.
+
+The few general remarks which I have to offer, on the subject of a
+North-West Passage, will appear in a subsequent part of the narrative;
+and here I shall only state, that we traced the coast, westward from the
+mouth of the Mackenzie, three hundred and seventy-four miles, without
+having found one harbour in which a ship could find shelter.
+
+[Sidenote: Thursday, 31st.] On the 31st, we continued the ascent of the
+river, and encamped in the evening within the limit of the spruce fir
+trees.
+
+[Sidenote: September 1st.] Favoured by a strong north-west gale, on the
+1st of September, we sailed the whole day along the western main shore,
+and, generally, within view of the Rocky Mountains. One of the numerous
+bends of the river took us within eight miles of part of the mountains,
+which appeared to be composed of a yellow stone, and was from eight
+hundred to a thousand feet in height. In the course of the day we came
+to the most northerly poplars, where the foliage had now assumed the
+yellow autumnal hue. [Sidenote: Saturday, 2nd.] The gale continued with
+strong squalls on the 2nd, and we advanced rapidly under double-reefed
+sails, though the course of the river was very winding. The temperature
+of the air varied from 41 degrees to 35 degrees. [Sidenote: Sunday,
+3rd.] On the third we had calm weather, and still keeping the western
+land aboard, we were led into a river which we had not discovered in our
+descent. The course of this river, was, for a time, parallel to our
+route, and we took it at first for one of the channels of the Mackenzie;
+but, in the afternoon, we saw a mountain to the eastward, and
+ascertained that we were to the Southward of Point Separation. We,
+therefore, began to descend the river again, and encamped shortly after
+sunset. Just after it became dark, voices were heard on the opposite
+side of the river, to which we replied, and soon afterwards, three
+Indians were observed crossing towards us in canoes. They approached
+cautiously, but on being invited to land, they did so, though one of
+them was so great a cripple as to require being carried from the canoe
+to the fire-side. The alarm these poor people had felt, was soon
+dissipated by kind treatment. They were armed with bows and arrows only,
+and clothed in hare skins and leather. Their trowsers were similar to
+those worn by the lower Loucheux, to which tribe they, probably,
+belonged. We could communicate with them only by signs, except by using
+a few words of Chipewyan, which one of them appeared to understand. We
+collected from them that they knew of Fort Good Hope, but none of them
+seemed to have visited it, as they had not a single article of European
+manufacture about their persons. They delineated on a stone the course
+of the Mackenzie, and of the river we had newly discovered, which
+appears to flow from the Rocky Mountains, and to break through the same
+ridge of hill that the Mackenzie does at the Narrows. It is probable,
+that it was to this river the Loucheux alluded, when they told Sir
+Alexander Mackenzie, opposite the present site of Fort Good Hope, that
+there was a river which conducted them to the sea in five days. I have
+distinguished this river by the name of Peel, in honour of His Majesty's
+Secretary of State for the Home Department. It is from a quarter to half
+a mile wide, and its banks are clothed with spruce, birch, and poplar
+trees, like those of the Mackenzie in the same parallel. [Sidenote:
+Monday, 4th.] We set forward at four A.M. on the 4th, with a strong
+favourable breeze, and in an hour, passed another river descending from
+the Rocky Mountains, and nearly as large as the Peel, into which it
+flows. We regained the Mackenzie at noon, and at five P.M. arrived at
+Point Separation, where we encamped. Here we found the boat, rope, and
+kettle, in the same state in which we had deposited them. The kettle was
+a great acquisition to us, because we had suffered much inconvenience in
+having only one for cooking, after the Esquimaux had robbed us of the
+others. The temperature varied during the day from 29 degrees to 55
+degrees, and, in the evening, the sand flies were troublesome.
+[Sidenote: Tuesday, 5th.] We quitted our encampment at day light on the
+5th, and crossed the river to look for a mark which Dr. Richardson was
+to have erected, if he returned by the Mackenzie; but not finding any,
+we deposited a letter and a bag of pemmican, in case he should come at a
+later period, and that his party should be in want of provision. In the
+vicinity of the Red River, we met Barbue, the Chief of the Loucheux, and
+two or three families, who seemed in a sorry condition from want of
+food, the water being too low for fishing. The chief appeared very
+anxious to communicate some intelligence, which he evidently considered
+important, but we could not understand him. We learned afterwards at the
+fort, that it related to the death of a chief by violence on the sea
+coast; this had given rise to a rumour of the death of myself, and
+afterwards of Dr. Richardson, which occasioned us, for a time, much
+anxiety. The weather, on this and several days, was remarkably fine;
+berries of various kinds were very abundant on the banks, and quite
+ripe. [Sidenote: Thursday, 7th.] By the aid of the tracking line, with
+the occasional use of the oars and sails, we proceeded up the river at a
+quick rate, and reached Fort Good Hope, at half-past four on the 7th. In
+consequence of the above-mentioned rumour, I requested Mr. Bell, the
+gentleman in charge of the fort, to despatch two of the Loucheux as
+quickly as possible to the eastern mouth of the river, in order to gain
+any information the Esquimaux could give regarding Dr. Richardson's
+party; and, that the messengers might not be delayed by hunting on the
+way, I left a bag of pemmican for their use. We were sorry to learn that
+there was some apprehension of a serious quarrel arising between the
+upper and lower Loucheux, in consequence of one of Barbue's sons having
+killed his wife, a woman of the latter tribe.
+
+[Sidenote: Friday, 8th.] We quitted Fort Good Hope at noon on the 8th,
+arrived at the entrance of Bear Lake River on the 16th, and on the 21st
+reached Fort Franklin, where we had the happiness of meeting our friends
+in safety. [Sidenote: Thursday, 21st.] The eastern detachment had
+arrived on the 1st of September, after a most successful voyage; and Dr.
+Richardson being anxious to extend his geological researches, as far as
+the season would permit, had gone in a canoe to the Great Slave Lake,
+having previously sent a report of his proceedings, to meet me at Fort
+Good Hope, in case of our being obliged to return by the Mackenzie; but
+the bearer of them passed us without being seen. Having read Mr.
+Kendall's journal, I drew up a brief account of the proceedings of both
+parties for the information of His Majesty's Government, and transmitted
+it by canoe, to Slave Lake on the following morning.
+
+The distance travelled in the three months of our absence from Fort
+Franklin, amounted to two thousand and forty-eight statute miles, of
+which six hundred and ten were through parts not previously discovered.
+
+I cannot close this account of our sea voyage without expressing the
+deep obligation I feel to Lieutenant Back for his cordial co-operation,
+and for his zealous and unwearied assiduity during its progress. Beside
+the daily delineation of the coast in the field book, the service is
+indebted to him for numerous drawings of scenery, as well as of the
+natives; and for an interesting collection of plants. My warmest thanks
+are likewise due to the men of my party, who met every obstacle with an
+ardent desire to surmount it, and cheerfully exerted themselves to the
+utmost of their power. Their cool, steady conduct is the more
+commendable, as the sea navigation was entirely novel to the whole,
+except the seamen Duncan and Spinks, and Hallom, the corporal of
+Marines. The Canadian voyagers, Felix and Vivier, first saw the ocean on
+this occasion.
+
+The following Chapters contain the narrative of the proceedings of Dr.
+Richardson in his own words; and I embrace this opportunity of conveying
+my sincere thanks to him, to Mr. Kendall, and to their respective crews.
+I may be allowed to bear my testimony to the union of caution, talent,
+and enterprise in the former, which enabled him to conduct, with
+singular success, an arduous service of a kind so foreign from his
+profession and ordinary pursuits; and to the science and skill, combined
+with activity, of Mr. (now Lieutenant) Kendall, which must heighten the
+character he has already obtained for general ability and energy in his
+profession. I must not omit to state, that these officers describe the
+conduct of their crews to have been excellent.
+
+_ABSTRACT of the Mean Temperature for each Day during the Voyage along
+the Sea Coast west of the Mackenzie, and on the return to Bear Lake._
+
+  1826. Daily
+  Date.  Mean  Wind and Weather.                Situation.
+  ----------------------------------------------------------------------
+  July.  degs.
+     1   52.8  NNW, WNW, moderate, gloomy       Fort Good Hope
+     2   58.3  West, fresh, clear               } Mackenzie River,
+     3   50.3  WNW, fresh, clear                } betwn lat. 67 deg.
+     4   55.8  West, SSW, N, light, gloomy      } 28 min., & 60 deg.
+     5   53.7  SW, NE, moderate, gloomy, foggy  } 53 min. N., longitude
+     6   45.1  NNW, ENE, fresh, moderate, rain  } 130-1/2 deg. &
+     7   41.6  SE, moderate, clear              } 136-1/2 deg. W.
+     8 } Not                                    Mouth of the
+       } regist'd.                              Mackenzie.
+     9 } Thermom.    ENE, strong, fog and rain
+    10 } stolen by                              } Between the
+    11 } Esquimaux.                             } Mackenzie &
+    12   51.6  EbyN. fresh, gloomy              } Herschel Isld.
+    13   53.3  Variable, fog and rain           } lat 68 deg. 53 min. &
+    14   50.5  Calm, rain, ENE, moderate, clear } 60 deg. 34 min. N.,
+    15   48.6  Calm, clear, NW, moderate, foggy } long. 136 deg. 19. min
+    16   47.3  SSE, moderate, snow, fog         } & 139 deg. 5 min. W.
+    17   44.8  NW, North, moderate, hazy        Herschel Island.
+    18   43.6  NW, moderate, clear              }
+    19   43.4  NW, moderate, heavy rain and fog }
+    20   39.3  NW, fresh, fog                   }
+    21   51.3  East, SE, clear                  }
+    22   58.5  SE, light, clear                 } Between Icy Reef &
+    23   51.6  West, calm, East, clear          } Herschel Island,
+    24   45.6  Calm, variable, clear            } latitude 69 deg. 34
+    25   42.0  West, light, calm, foggy         } min. & 69 deg. 44
+    26   44.3  Calm, NW, fog                    } min. N., longitude 139
+    27   41.4  West, NW, moderate, fog          } deg. 5 min. and 141
+    28   43.2  ENE, light, gloomy               } deg. 30 min. W.
+    29   41.6  ENE, strong, misty               }
+    30   40.3  ENE, fresh, moderate, clear      }
+    31   42.7  NE, moderate, clear, fresh and   }
+         -----                           foggy  }
+  Mean   47.61
+  ----------------------------------------------------------------------
+   Aug.
+     1   42.0  NE, gale, foggy                  } Between Icy Reef &
+     2   44.6  ENE, strong, moderate, clear     } Flaxman's Island, lat.
+     3   44.1  ENE, moderate, clear             } 69 deg. 44 min. & 70
+     4   40.7  East, moderate, clear            } deg. 11 min. N., long.
+     5   42.6  Calm, WbyN, moderate             } 141 deg. 30 min. & 145
+     6   43.2  Calm, ESE, light, clear          } deg. 50 min. W.
+     7   42.8  ENE, fresh, clear               _}
+     8   42.9  ENE, strong, fog                 }
+     9   41.6  NE, strong, fog                  }
+    10   39.5  ENE, strong, fog                 } Foggy Island, lat.
+    11   41.1  NE, moderate, fog                } 70 deg. 16 min. N.
+    12   41.1  East, moderate, very foggy       } longitude 147 deg.
+    13   41.6  NE, strong, foggy                } 38 min. W.
+    14   41.3  ENE, NE, moderate, foggy         }
+    15   38.1  NE, fresh, hazy                  }
+
+_ABSTRACT the Mean Temperature for each Day during the Voyage along the
+Sea Coast west of the Mackenzie, and on the return to Bear Lake._
+
+  1826. Daily
+  Date.  Mean  Wind and Weather.                Situation.
+  ----------------------------------------------------------------------
+   Aug.  degs.
+    16   35.0  ENE, fresh, foggy                } Return Reef, lat.
+    17   37.4  NE, gale, very foggy             } 70 deg. 26 min. N. lg.
+    18   36.2  NE, strong, clear               _} 148 deg. 52 min. W.
+    19   36.4  NE, strong, foggy                } Foggy
+    20   36.4  NE, fresh, foggy                _} Island.
+    21   35.7  NNE, North, moderate, clear      }
+    22   37.6  North, NE, light, clear          } Between Foggy Island &
+    23   41.0  Calm, clear                      } the Mouth of the
+    24   39.4  Calm, clear, foggy in the night  } Mackenzie, lat. 70
+    25   41.2  Calm, fog, NE, light, ESE, strong} deg. 16 min. and 68
+    26   39.6  WNW, NW, heavy gale, snow, sleet } deg. 53 min. N. lon.
+    27   39.8  Calm, ESE, light, clear          } 147 deg. 38 min. and
+    28   43.0  SW, strong, clear                } 136 deg. 19 min. W.
+    29   52.5  SSW, heavy gale                 _}
+    30   45.6  NW, Heavy gale, rain             } Mackenzie
+    31   42.4  Calm, SW, gloomy                 } River.
+         -----
+  Mean   40.85
+  ----------------------------------------------------------------------
+  Sept.
+     1   38.3  NW, gale, snow                   }
+     2   38.6  NW, strong, clear                }
+     3   41.1  Calm, moderate, SE, clear        }
+     4   41.3  SE, NW, moderate, clear          }
+     5   45.9  SE, light, clear                 }
+     6   51.0  Variable, light, clear           }
+     7   44.8  SE, light, NW, strong            }
+     8   41.0  NW, strong, snow                 }
+     9   39.3  East, moderate, clear            }
+    10   45.8  SE, light, clear                 } Mackenzie
+    11   45.8  NW, moderate rain                } River.
+    12   37.3  NW, moderate, gloomy             }
+    13   37.2  Calm, SE, light, clear           }
+    14   37.9  ESE, moderate, clear             }
+    15   42.7  Calm, moderate, fresh, gloomy    }
+    16   44.5  Variable, light, gloomy          }
+    17   36.9  Variable, moderate, rain         }
+    18   29.4  NW, fresh, gloomy                }
+    19   24.6  NW, moderate, gloomy             }
+    20   29.2  ESE, fresh, clear                }
+    21   31.1  ENE, fresh, clear                Fort Franklin.
+         -----
+  Mean   39.22
+  ----------------------------------------------------------------------
+  NOTE.--The thermometer used in this register, was compared with those
+  in use at Fort Franklin during ten days after our return, and found to
+  coincide with them.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[3] I have recently learned, by letter from Captain Beechey, that the
+barge turned back on the 25th of August, having been several days beset
+by the ice. He likewise informs me, that the summer of 1827 was so
+unfavourable for the navigation of the northern coast of America, that
+the Blossom did not reach so high a latitude as in the preceding year;
+nor could his boat get so far to the east of Icy Cape, by one hundred
+miles. The natives, he says, were numerous, and, in some instances,
+ill-disposed.
+
+
+
+
+DR. RICHARDSON'S NARRATIVE OF THE PROCEEDINGS OF THE EASTERN DETACHMENT
+OF THE EXPEDITION.
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+Leave Point Separation and descend the Eastern Channel of the
+Mackenzie--Arrive at Sacred Island--Esquimaux Graves--Interview with the
+Natives; their thievish disposition--Attempt to gain possession of the
+Union--Heavy Gale--Find Shelter in Refuge Cove--Low
+Coast--Mirage--Stopped by Ice at Point Toker--Reach the Sea.
+
+
+[Sidenote: July 4th.] The two parties of which the Expedition was
+composed, having spent the evening of the 3rd of July in cheerful
+conversation about their future prospects, prepared to separate on the
+morning of the 4th. By six o'clock all the boats were stowed; and
+Captain Franklin, Lieutenant Back, and their party, had committed
+themselves to the stream in the Lion and Reliance; while the Eastern
+Detachment, drawn up on the beach, cheered them on their departure with
+three hearty huzzas. The voices of our friends were heard in reply until
+the current had carried their boats round a projecting point of land,
+when we also embarked to proceed on our voyage. Our detachment was
+composed of twelve individuals, distributed in two boats, named the
+Dolphin and Union.
+
+        IN THE DOLPHIN.                      IN THE UNION.
+
+  Dr. Richardson.                    Mr. Kendall.
+  Thomas Gillet, _Coxswain_.         John M'Leay, _Coxswain_.
+  John M'Lellan, _Bowman_.           George Munroe, _Bowman_.
+  Shadrach Tysoe, _Marine_.          William Money, _Marine_.
+  Thomas Fuller, _Carpenter_.        John M'Duffey.
+  Ooligbuck, _Esquimaux_.            George Harkness.
+
+The instructions we received were, to trace the coast between the
+Mackenzie and Coppermine Rivers, and to return from the latter overland
+to Great Bear Lake. Ice was the only impediment we dreaded as likely to
+prove an obstacle to the execution of these orders. We knew that the
+direct distance between the two rivers did not amount to five hundred
+miles; and, having provisions for upwards of eighty days stowed in the
+boats, we were determined not to abandon the enterprize on light
+grounds, especially after we had seen the friends that had just parted
+from us embark with so much cheerfulness in their more arduous
+undertaking.
+
+On leaving Point Separation we pulled, for two hours, against the
+current, to regain the entrance of the "Middle Channel," which was first
+explored by Mackenzie, on his way to the sea, in 1798, and more
+perfectly surveyed by Captain Franklin, on his voyage to Garry's Island,
+last autumn. It has a breadth of nearly a mile, and a depth of from
+three to five fathoms; though in one place, where there was a ripple,
+the sounding lead struck against a flat bed of stone in nine feet water.
+Having proceeded about ten miles in this channel, we entered a branch
+flowing to the eastward, with the view of tracing the course of the main
+land. Mackenzie, on his return from the sea by this route, observed many
+trees having their upper branches lopped off by the Esquimaux, and we
+saw several such trees in the course of the day. The lands are low and
+marshy, and inclose small lakes which are skirted by willows. The
+summits of the banks are loaded with drift-timber, showing that they are
+all inundated by the spring floods, except a few sandy ridges which
+bound the principal channels, and which are clothed with well-grown
+white spruce trees. Our voyage amongst these uninteresting flats was
+greatly enlivened by the busy flight and cheerful twittering of the
+sand-martins, which had scooped out thousands of nests in the banks of
+the river, and we witnessed with pleasure their activity in thinning the
+ranks of our most tormenting foes the musquitoes. When our precursor,
+Sir Alexander Mackenzie, passed through these channels on the 10th of
+July, 1789, they were bounded by walls of ice veined with black earth,
+but the present season was so much milder, that the surface of the banks
+was every where thawed.
+
+An hour before noon we put ashore to cook our breakfast, near a clump of
+spruce trees, where several fires had recently been made by a party
+which had left many foot-prints on the sand; probably a horde of
+Esquimaux, on their return from trading with the Indians at the Narrows.
+A thunder storm that obscured the sky, prevented Mr. Kendall from
+ascertaining the latitude at noon, which was the hour we chose for
+breakfast throughout the voyage, in order to economize time, as it was
+necessary to land to obtain the meridian observation of the sun. In the
+afternoon we continued to descend the same channel, which has a smooth
+and moderately rapid current, and a general depth of two or three
+fathoms. At four P.M. we obtained a view of a ridge of land to the
+eastward, which we have since learned is named by the natives the
+Rein-Deer Hills, and at seven encamped near two conical hills of
+limestone, about two hundred feet high, and clothed with trees to their
+tops. The length of the day's voyage was forty-two miles. We selected a
+sandy bank, covered with willows sixteen feet high, for our encamping
+place; and here again we found that a party of Esquimaux had lately
+occupied the same spot, the ashes of their fires being still fresh, and
+the leaves of the willow poles to which they had attached their nets,
+unwithered. Before we retired to bed, the arms were examined, and a
+watch was set; a practice which we kept up for the remainder of the
+voyage. Much rain fell in the night.
+
+[Sidenote: Wednesday, 5th.] On the 5th we embarked at four in the
+morning, and soon afterwards, the channel conducting us to the base of
+the Rein-Deer Hills, Mr. Kendall and I ascended an eminence, which was
+about four hundred feet high. Its summit was thinly coated with gravel,
+and its sides were formed of sand and clay, inclosing some beds of
+brownish-red sandstone, and of gray-coloured slate-clay. Clumps of trees
+grew about half way up, but the top produced only a thin wiry grass. At
+eleven A.M. we landed to breakfast, and remained on shore until noon, in
+the hope of obtaining an observation for latitude, but the sun was
+obscured by clouds. In the afternoon I had an extensive view from the
+summit of a hill of flat alluvial lands, divided into islands by
+inosculations of the channels of the river, and bounded, at the distance
+of about forty miles to the westward, by the Rocky Mountains. As we
+advanced to the northward, we perceived the trees to diminish in size,
+becoming more scattered, and ascend a shorter way up the sides of the
+hills, and they altogether terminated in latitude 68 degrees 40 minutes,
+in an even line running across the islands; though one solitary spruce
+fir was seen in 68 degrees 53 minutes. Perhaps the lands to the
+northward of this abrupt line were too low and wet for the growth of the
+white spruce, the tree which attains the highest latitude on this
+continent.
+
+We pitched our tents for the night on the site of another Esquimaux
+encampment, where a small bit of moose deer's meat was still attached to
+a piece of wood at the fire-place; and we saw, from the tracks of the
+people and dogs in the sand, that a party had left the river here to
+cross the Rein-Deer Hills. From information obtained through the
+Sharp-eyed, or Quarreller tribe of Indians, this appears to be one of
+the Esquimaux routes to a large piece of brackish water named Esquimaux
+Lake, and alluded to by Mackenzie in several parts of his narrative. The
+length of our voyage this day was forty-four miles, and our encampment
+was opposite to an island named by Captain Franklin after William
+Williams, Esq., late governor of Prince Rupert's land. We observed here
+an unusually large spruce tree, considering the high latitude in which
+it grew; it measured seven feet in circumference, at the height of four
+feet from the ground. A hole was dug at the foot of the hill, in sandy
+soil, to the depth of three feet without reaching frozen ground.
+
+[Sidenote: Thursday, 6th.] On the 6th, heavy and continued rain delayed
+our embarkation until ten o'clock in the forenoon, and the weather,
+during the rest of the day, was hazy, with occasional showers of small
+rain. Before leaving the encampment, we lopped the branches from a tree,
+and suspended to it a small kettle, a hatchet, an ice-chisel, and a few
+strings of beads, together with a letter written in hieroglyphics, by
+Mr. Kendall, denoting that a party of white people presented these
+articles to the Esquimaux as a token of friendship.[4] As we advanced,
+we came to the union of several ramifications of the middle channel with
+the eastern branch of the river, and the breadth of the latter increased
+to two miles; its depth of water being rarely less than three fathoms.
+In latitude 69 degrees, the eastern channel of the Mackenzie makes a
+turn round the end of the Rein-deer-hills which terminate there, having
+previously diminished in height to about two hundred feet. At the
+commencement of this turn, there is a small island nearly equal to the
+main land in height, and appearing when viewed from the southward, to be
+a continuation of it. Its position pointing it out to be the one
+described by Mackenzie as possessing "a sacred character," and being
+still a burial place of the Esquimaux, I named it Sacred Island. We saw
+here two recent, and several more ancient graves. The bodies were
+wrapped in skins closely covered with drift-wood, and laid with their
+heads to the west; so that the rule mentioned by Captain Lyon in his
+account of Melville peninsula, does not obtain on this part of the
+coast; for there none but the bodies of infants are placed in that
+direction. Various articles, such as canoes, sledges, and fishing nets,
+were deposited near the graves.
+
+Sacred Island is formed entirely of layers of fine sand of different
+colours, covered by a little vegetable mould. One of its sides being
+steeply escarped by the waves, showed its structure completely. Amongst
+the vegetable productions of this spot, we noticed the perennial lupine,
+the narrow-leaved epilobium, and some currant bushes in full flower, and
+growing with great luxuriance. From its summit we had a view of the
+river flowing in many channels, both to the eastward and westward. The
+islands lying in sight to the westward are low, and apparently inundated
+when the river is flooded; but to the eastward, there are many islands
+having hummocks as high as Sacred Island, and judging from those that
+were near, they are, like it, composed of sand. The channels surrounding
+the island appear to be shallow.
+
+After leaving that island, we steered along the main shore to a sandy
+point about four miles distant, and encamped near a very recent resting
+place of a large party of Esquimaux, not fewer than ten fires having
+been made since the heavy rain of the morning. There was also vestiges
+of five or six winter-houses on this point. Richards' Island, which was
+named in honour of the Governor of the Bank of England, forms the
+opposite bank of the channel here, and exhibits, like the neighbouring
+islands, some sandy hummocks and cliffs. The length of the day's voyage
+was twenty-five miles, and our encampment was situated in lat. 69
+degrees 4 minutes N., long. 134 degrees 10 minutes W.
+
+[Sidenote: Friday, 7th.] We embarked on the morning on the 7th at four
+o'clock, in cold, hazy weather, and soon came to a point of Richards'
+Island, on which there were four or five Esquimaux tents, with several
+skin canoes, and boats lying on the beach. I had previously arranged
+that on our first interview with the Esquimaux, I was to land with
+Ooligbuck, whilst Mr. Kendall kept the boats afloat ready to lend us
+such aid as might be required; conceiving that this was the best way of
+inspiring the natives with confidence, should they be distrustful, or of
+securing freedom of action to our crews should they prove unfriendly.
+The muskets were kept in the arm-chest out of sight, but ready for
+instant use. As we drew near the point, two women, who were walking
+along the shore, looked at us with amazement for some minutes, and then
+ran into the tents and alarmed their inmates. Several men instantly
+rushed out, nearly naked, with their bows and quivers in their hands,
+making furious gestures and apparently much frightened. I desired
+Ooligbuck to speak to them, and called to them myself in their own
+language that we were friends; but their terror and confusion was so
+great, that they did not appear to comprehend us. I then took a few
+beads, files, and knives, in my hand, and landing with Ooligbuck, made
+some presents to the men, and told them I was come to trade. The moment
+I mentioned the word "trade" (_noowoerlook_), their fears subsided, and
+they sent away their bows, but retained their long knives; those that
+were clothed thrusting them into their pockets or up their sleeves. An
+old woman who seemed to have greater self-possession than the rest, and
+to understand my meaning more readily, ran and fetched some dried fish,
+for which I gave her beads; and the others then began to manifest an
+eager desire of exchanging their fish for any thing that I offered. More
+people coming from the tents, a crowd was formed, who obtained all the
+trading articles I had brought on shore. As their surprise subsided,
+their boldness and clamour increased, and some few of them began again
+to use threatening expressions and gestures, either from a dislike to
+strangers coming into their country, or for the purpose of intimidation
+and extortion. When the interview assumed this disagreeable character,
+Ooligbuck said that they were very bad people, and entreating me to
+embark, took me on his back and carried me on board. At the same time,
+several of the natives ran into the water and attempted to drag the boat
+ashore, but on my calling to them they desisted. One fellow, whose
+countenance, naturally disagreeable, had been rendered hideous by the
+insertion of a large brass thimble into a perforation in the under lip,
+seized upon our tea-kettle, and endeavoured to conceal it under water,
+but being seen from the Union, he was made to return it.
+
+When we left the shore, all the males, twenty-one in number, embarked in
+their small canoes or kaiyacks and accompanied us; and in less than a
+quarter of an hour, the women had struck the tents and embarked them,
+together with their children, dogs, and luggage, in their row boats or
+oomiaks, and were in close pursuit. For a time we proceeded down the
+river together in an amicable manner, bartering beads, steels, flints,
+files, knives, hatchets, and kettles, for fish, adzes, spears, and
+arrows. The natives seemed to have a correct idea of property, and
+showed much tact in their commerce with us; circumstances which have
+been held by an eminent historian to be evidences of a considerable
+progress towards civilization[5]. They were particularly cautious not to
+glut the market by too great a display of their stock in trade;
+producing only one article at a time, and not attempting to out-bid each
+other; nor did I ever observe them endeavour to deprive one another of
+any thing obtained in barter or as a present. As is usual with other
+tribes of Esquimaux, they asked our names and told us theirs, a practice
+diametrically opposite to that of the Indians, who conceive it to be
+improper to mention a man's name in his presence, and will not, on any
+account, designate their near relatives, except by some indirect phrase.
+They showed much more curiosity respecting the construction of our boats
+than any of the tribes of Indians we had seen, and expressed great
+admiration of the rudder, soon comprehending its mode of action,
+although it is a contrivance of which they were previously ignorant.
+They were incessant in their inquiries as to the use of every thing they
+saw in our possession, but were sometimes content with an answer too
+brief to afford much explanation; as in the following instance.
+Ooligbuck had lighted his pipe and was puffing the smoke from his mouth,
+when they shouted "_ookah, ookah_," (fire, fire,) and demanded to be
+told what he was doing. He replied with the greatest gravity,
+"_poo-yoo-al-letchee-rawmah_" (I smoke); and this answer sufficed. On my
+referring to an Esquimaux vocabulary, Ooligbuck, in answer to their
+questions, told them that the book spoke to me, when they entreated me
+to put it away. I afterwards detected the rogue with the brass thimble
+endeavouring to steal this book, and placed it, as I thought, out of his
+reach; it was missing in the evening, but I never ascertained whether it
+had been purloined by the Esquimaux or had fallen overboard in moving
+some of the stores. Seeing me use my pocket telescope, they speedily
+comprehended its use, and called it "_eetee-yawgah_" (far eyes) the name
+that they give to the wooden shade which is used to protect their eyes
+from the glare of the snow; and which, from the smallness of its
+aperture, enables them to see distant objects more clearly. Of our
+trading articles, light copper kettles were in the greatest request, and
+we were often asked for the long knives which are used for flinching
+whales. It is creditable to the Esquimaux habits of cleanliness, that
+combs were in great demand, and we saw wooden ones of their own
+manufacture, not dissimilar to ours in form. I distributed
+looking-glasses to some of the young men, but they were mostly returned
+again, although I do not know on what account.
+
+This party of Esquimaux, being similar in features and dress to the
+tribe seen by Captain Franklin, and not differing materially from the
+Esquimaux inhabiting Melville peninsula which have been so fully
+described by Captains Parry and Lyon, it is not necessary to enter into
+any detail here on those points. Ooligbuck's dialect and theirs differed
+a little, but they mutually understood one another. I observed that they
+invariably sounded the letter _m_ instead of _g_, when in the middle of
+a word, calling Ooligbuck, Oolimbauk. Ooligbuck's attempts to pronounce
+"Doctor" were sufficiently imperfect, but to our visitors, the word
+seemed utterly unattainable, and they could designate me only by the
+term _Eheumattak_ or chief. They succeeded better with the names of some
+of the men, readily naming Tysoe, and calling Gillet "_Hillet_." The
+females, as they passed in their oomiaks, bestowed on us some glances
+that could scarcely be misconstrued,--their manners, in this respect,
+differed widely from those of the Indian women, who have a modest and
+even shy demeanour. Some of the young girls had a considerable share of
+beauty, and seemed to have spared no pains in ornamenting their persons.
+Their hair was turned up in a neat knot, on the crown of the head, and a
+lock or queue, tied by a fillet of beads, hung down by the ears, on each
+side. Mr. Nuttall, in his account of the Quapaws or Arkansas, mentions
+that the unmarried women wear their hair braided into two parts, brought
+round to either ear in a cylindrical form and ornamented with beads; and
+a similar attention to head-dress is paid by some of the Indian women
+inhabiting the borders of the great Canada lakes, and also by the
+Tawcullies or Carriers of New Caledonia;[6] but the females of all the
+tribes of Indians that we saw in our route through the northern parts of
+the fur countries, suffer their hair to hang loose about their ears,
+and, in general, adorn their persons less than the men of the same
+tribes. The Esquimaux women dressing better, and being required to
+labour less, than the Indian females, may be considered as a proof that
+the former nation has made the greater progress towards civilization;
+and I am of opinion that the Esquimaux would adopt European habits and
+customs much more readily than the Indians.
+
+Though there are many circumstances which widely distinguish the
+Esquimaux from their Indian neighbours, they might all, possibly, be
+traced to the necessity of associating in numbers for the capture of the
+whale, and of laying up large hoards of blubber for winter consumption.
+Thus have they been induced to build villages for their common
+residence, and from thence have originated those social habits which are
+incompatible with the wandering and precarious life of an Indian hunter.
+It would lead, however, to too long a digression, were I to enter into
+details on this subject, and I resume, therefore, the narrative of the
+voyage.[7]
+
+In the course of the morning we came to several other encampments, one
+of them consisting of nine tents; and each party no sooner learnt who we
+were, than they embarked bag and baggage and followed us. Some of the
+new comers were shy, and kept aloof, but in general they were too
+forward. Emboldened by their increase of numbers, they gradually became
+more daring, and running their kaiyacks alongside, laid hold of the
+boat's gunwale, and attempted to steal any thing within their reach. To
+lessen their opportunities of annoying us, I was obliged to keep the
+crews constantly rowing, for when we attempted to rest, three or four
+fellows would instantly seize the opportunity of lifting the blades of
+the oars and pushing their kaiyacks alongside, whilst others would cling
+on by the bows and quarters, nor could they be dislodged without much
+trouble. They manifested great cunning and dexterity in their pilfering
+attempts, and frequently acted in concert. Thus, one fellow would lay
+hold of the boat with both his hands; and while the coxswain and I were
+disengaging them, his comrade on the other side would make the best use
+of his time in transferring some of our property into his canoe, with
+all the coolness of a practised thief. The smaller things being,
+however, put as well out of the way as possible, and a strict look-out
+kept, they were, in almost every instance, detected; and they restored,
+with the most perfect good humour, every article they had taken, as soon
+as it was demanded, often laughing heartily at their own want of
+address. They succeeded only in purloining a bag of ball, and a
+powder-horn, as the theft was not perceived at the time. I was
+unwilling to check this conduct by a display of arms, because I was
+desirous of gaining the natives by kindness and forbearance, the more
+especially, as our ignorance of the state of the ice rendered it
+doubtful, whether we might not be under the necessity of encamping, for
+some time, in their neighbourhood. Had we resented their pilfering
+attempts too hastily, we should have appeared the aggressors, for they
+expressed great good-will towards us, readily answered such questions as
+we were able to put to them about the course of the river, pointed out
+to us the deepest channels, invited us to go ashore to cook our
+breakfast, and even offered to provide us with wives, if we would pass
+the night at their tents. For very obvious reasons we declined all their
+invitations; but our crews being fatigued with continual rowing, and
+faint from want of food, we halted at one P.M., by the side of a steep
+bank, and breakfasted in the boats, insisting on the Esquimaux keeping
+aloof whilst we were so engaged.
+
+In the afternoon we had to search for a passage amongst islands, there
+being no longer water enough near the main shore to float our boats. The
+Esquimaux undertook to guide us, but whether through accident or design,
+they led us, on one occasion, into a shallow channel, where we grounded
+on a sand-bank, over which there was a strong current setting; and we
+had not only much difficulty in getting afloat, but had to pull, for an
+hour, against the stream, to regain the passage we had left. Soon after
+this, one of the natives made a forcible attempt to come into the
+Dolphin, under the pretext of bartering two large knives which he held
+in his hand; and the dexterity with which he leaped from his kaiyack was
+remarkable. There were three other kaiyacks betwixt him and our boats,
+which, on his giving the signal, were, by their owners laying their
+broad paddles across, instantly converted into a platform, over which he
+ran with velocity and sprang upon the stern seat of the Dolphin, but he
+was immediately tumbled out again. Judging from the boldness of this
+fellow's behaviour, and the general tenour of the conduct of the
+natives, that sooner or later they might be tempted to make an attack
+upon us, I adopted, as a measure of precaution, the plan of purchasing
+their bows, which are their most powerful weapons. They were at first
+unwilling to part with them; but finding that we would take nothing else
+in exchange for the articles we had to dispose of, they ultimately let
+us have a good number. The Esquimaux bows are formed of spruce-fir,
+strengthened on the back by cords made of the sinews of the rein-deer,
+and would have been prized, even beyond their favourite yew, by the
+archers of Sherwood. They are far superior to the bows of the Indians,
+and are fully capable of burying "the goose-wing of a cloth-yard shaft"
+in the heart of a deer.
+
+Several of the young men tried the speed of their kaiyacks against our
+boats, and seemed to delight in showing us how much their little vessels
+excelled ours in velocity. Towards evening the women's oomiaks had all
+gone ahead, and we were given to understand that they were about to
+encamp for the night. Thinking that they would choose the best route, we
+followed them into a channel, which proved too shallow; and when we put
+about to try another, the natives became more urgent than ever that we
+should land and encamp along with them. Just as we were about to enter a
+passage which the Esquimaux, doubtless, knew was deep enough, and led by
+the shortest route to the sea, the Union grounded upon a bank, about
+half a bow-shot from the shore. Seven or eight of the natives instantly
+jumped out of their kaiyacks, and laying hold of the boat's bow and
+steering-sweep, attempted to drag her ashore. They were speedily joined
+by others, who hurried from the beach with knives in their hands; and
+Mr. Kendall seeing that he would almost immediately be surrounded by a
+force too great to permit his men to act, called to me that he should be
+obliged to fire. Fully aware of the necessity of prompt measures, I
+answered that he was at liberty to fire if necessary. Upon which,
+snatching up his fowling-piece, he presented it at three of the most
+daring who had hold of the sweep-oar, and his crew who were now in the
+water endeavouring to shove the boat off, and struggling with the
+natives, jumped on board and seized their muskets. The crew of the
+Dolphin likewise displayed their arms and stood ready, but I ordered
+that no individual should fire until called upon by name. They were,
+however, the instant that a shot was fired from the Union, to lay the
+Dolphin aground alongside of her, that thus we might present only two
+assailable sides to the enemy. Happily there was no occasion to fire at
+all; the contests of the Esquimaux with the Indians had taught them to
+dread fire-arms, and on the sudden sight of every man armed with a
+musket, they fled to the shore. Until that moment we had kept our guns
+carefully concealed in the arm-chest, to prevent any of the natives from
+snatching them away and disarming us, and also that they might not deem
+our intentions to be other than pacific.
+
+I do not believe that the natives had matured a plan of attack, but the
+stranding of a boat on their own shore was too great a temptation to be
+resisted. Some individuals had previously shown unequivocal signs of
+good feeling towards us, such as bringing back the Union's sweep-oar,
+which had slipped from the coxswain's hands; and also in pointing out
+the channel we afterwards pursued to the sea, as preferable to the one
+which the oomiaks had taken. Even the better-disposed, however, would,
+doubtless, have joined the others, had they began to plunder with
+success; for they told us in the forenoon that there was no one of their
+horde acknowledged as a chief. It is probable that the Esquimaux were
+doubtful as to the sex of some of our party, until they saw them prepare
+for battle. None but women row in their oomiaks, and they had asked
+Ooligbuck if all the white women had beards.
+
+The crews on this occasion behaved with a coolness and resolution worthy
+of the utmost praise, executing without the slightest confusion the
+orders they received. Mr. Kendall acted with his usual judgment; and his
+prudence and humanity, in refraining from firing, merit the highest
+encomiums. The Union being speedily set afloat by her crew, we pulled
+together through a wide channel, three feet deep. The spot where this
+transaction took place has been named Point Encounter, and is in
+latitude 69 degrees 16 minutes N., and longitude 136 degrees 20 minutes W.
+
+The Esquimaux seemed to hold a consultation on the beach after we left
+them; but, as none attempted to follow us immediately, we enjoyed the
+respite from their forwardness and clamour, which had become very
+harrassing, particularly to Mr. Kendall and myself, who had other duties
+to attend to. He had full occupation in surveying and delineating the
+route; and as the Dolphin led the way through a shoal and intricate
+navigation, it was requisite that I should keep the sounding-lead
+constantly going, and be on the watch for any change in the appearance
+of the current which might indicate shoal water, the smallness of our
+crews preventing me from appointing any man to that service. In about an
+hour after leaving Point Encounter, we observed ten kaiyacks coming
+towards us from a cluster of islands; they soon overtook us, but kept at
+a reasonable distance, and no longer gave us any trouble by coming
+alongside. We wished to show that we had no desire to hurt them,
+notwithstanding their past conduct, and, therefore, began again to trade
+with them; yet we were naturally anxious that they should leave us
+before we encamped, because, from the fleetness of their kaiyacks, they
+could soon collect a great number of their countrymen, and give us much
+annoyance in the night. Our wishes were seconded by a fresh breeze of
+wind springing up and enabling us to set the sails, by which the crews
+enjoyed a rest, after fourteen hours' labour at the oars; and the
+Esquimaux had greater difficulty in keeping up with the increased
+velocity of our boats. Thinking that they would quit us as soon as they
+lost the hope of getting more goods, I desired Ooligbuck to tell them I
+would trade no more, and they accordingly, one by one, dropped behind
+and left us. Three followed us longer than the others, and as they were
+not of the party which attacked the Union, and had hitherto received
+nothing from us, I made each of them a small present of beads and
+fire-steels, when they also took leave, calling out "_teymah,
+peechaw-ooloo_," "friendship is good."
+
+We learned in the course of the day, from the natives, that they call
+themselves _Kitte-garroe-oot_, (inhabitants of the land near the
+mountains,) and that they were now on their way to a place favourable
+for the capture of white whales, as in the sea, which they said was many
+days' march distant, there was too much ice to take the black whales at
+this season. It also appeared that they annually ascend to the Narrows
+of Mackenzie River, for the purpose of trading with the Quarrellers, and
+were accustomed to spend their summers in a large lake of brackish
+water, (Esquimaux Lake,) lying to the eastward, where they occasionally
+meet parties of Loucheux. They informed us that the land to the eastward
+of Encounter Point is a collection of islands, and that there were many
+of their countrymen fishing in the rivers which separate them. They had
+heard of the Esquimaux at the mouth of the Coppermine River, and knew
+them by their name of _Naggoe-ook-tor-moe-oot_, (or Deer-horns,) but
+said they were very far off, and that they had no intercourse with them;
+adding, that all the inhabitants of the coast to the eastward were bad
+people. They knew white people by the name of _Kabloonacht_, and Indians
+by that of _Eitkallig_, the same appellations that are used by the
+Esquimaux of Hudson's Bay; but their name for the black whale was
+different from that given to it by Ooligbuck; and they also gave names
+to some of their utensils which he had never heard before. Ooligbuck was
+not of much use as an interpreter, in our intercourse with these people,
+for he spoke no English; but his presence answered the important purpose
+of showing that the white people were on terms of friendship with the
+distant tribes of Esquimaux. As a boatman he was of the greatest
+service, being strongly attached to us, possessing an excellent temper,
+and labouring cheerfully at his oar.
+
+We could not ascertain the numbers of Esquimaux we saw in the course of
+the day, because they were always coming and going, but we passed at
+least thirty tents, and had reason to believe that on some of the
+islands there were tents which we did not see. Four grown people is,
+perhaps the average number of the inhabitants of each tent. A short time
+before the attack on the Union, I counted forty kaiyacks round the two
+boats.
+
+The wind freshened, and the night began to look stormy, as we stood
+across a wide sound which was open from the N.W. to the N.E., and had a
+depth of water varying from three to seven feet. White whales were seen;
+and some of the crew thought the water tasted brackish. About nine P.M.
+a drizzling rain came on, attended with very dark weather, which induced
+us to make for a round islet, with a view of encamping, and securing the
+boats for the night; it was skirted by shoals that prevented us from
+landing, and we therefore anchored the boats by poles stuck in the mud,
+raised the coverings of the cargo on masts and oars, so as to turn off
+the rain; and after eating our supper and setting a watch, we
+endeavoured to get some repose by lying down in our clothes, wet as they
+were. We had scarcely laid down, however, before the wind changed and
+began to blow with violence directly on the shore, so as to render it
+necessary for us to shift our situation without delay. An attempt was
+made to row the boats round to the other side of the islet, but they
+drifted upon the shoals in spite of the exertions of the crew, and began
+to strike violently. [Sidenote: Saturday, 8th.] In this perilous
+situation we perceived some smooth water to leeward, upon which setting
+the foresails, the boats were pushed over a sandy bar into two fathoms
+water. We then stood towards the eastern shore, and keeping in deep
+water, entered a small inlet, which received the name of Refuge Cove;
+where having made fast the boats to the beach, pitched a tent on the
+shore, and set a watch, we attempted a second time to obtain some rest.
+
+We were not, however, destined to enjoy much repose that night, for we
+had scarcely overcome the chilliness occasioned by lying down in wet
+clothes, when the Union broke from her moorings in a violent gust of
+wind, and began to drive across the inlet towards the lee-shore, on
+which there was a considerable surf. Mr. Kendall and one of the crew,
+who were sleeping on board, to be ready in case of accident, lowered the
+covering with the utmost expedition, and taking the oars, kept her from
+driving far, until the rest of the party arrived to their assistance in
+the Dolphin. The boats were brought to the beach and secured, and we had
+again retired to rest, when the tent-pegs, although loaded with drift
+timber, were drawn up by the force of the wind, and the tent, drenched
+with rain, fell upon us. It was in vain to attempt to sleep after this,
+benumbed as we were by the coldness of the weather; but the rain ceasing
+about four in the morning of the 8th, we were enabled to make a good
+fire, and dry our clothes. The cargo of the boats was then landed, the
+wet packages spread out to dry, and the boats were drawn upon the beach
+so as to form, with the baggage, a three-sided breast-work, to which we
+could retreat, should the Esquimaux pay us a hostile visit. These
+arrangements being made, the tent was removed to a more sheltered spot,
+and we slept quietly until ten o'clock in the morning. In the night an
+accident happened to Mr. Kendall, which might have had fatal
+consequences, and alarmed us at the time exceedingly. The point of a
+small two-edged knife which he wore in a sheath slung from his neck,
+was, by his falling against one of the tent-poles, forced through the
+sheath into his side, exactly in the region of the heart. Through the
+mercy of Providence, its progress was arrested by one of the ribs, and
+the wound healed in the course of a few days. At noon a meridian
+observation was obtained, which placed the mouth of Refuge Cove in
+latitude 69 degrees 29 minutes N.; and the sun's bearing showed the
+variation of the magnetic needle to be 49-1/2 degrees easterly. The
+length of our voyage the preceding day was fifty-seven miles. Refuge
+Cove has an irregular form; its length is about two miles and a half,
+and its greatest width one mile. It is upwards of two fathoms deep at
+the entrance, and for some distance within; but a bar runs from Shoal
+Islet to its north side. Its shores are flat and sandy, but here and
+there hummocks rise abruptly to the height of one hundred feet,
+resembling the downs on the Norfolk coast. The sandy hummocks are bound
+together by the creeping fibrous roots of a species of grass, named
+_Elymus mollis_; and many of them are covered by a coat of black
+vegetable mould. Ruins of Esquimaux houses, that appeared to have been
+deserted for many years, were scattered along the borders of the cove,
+and much drift-timber lay on the low grounds. We saw some ducks and
+geese, and two of the crew went to hunt round the harbour for deer, but
+they had no success.
+
+The wind having moderated in the evening, we prepared to resume the
+voyage, and had begun to load the boats, when I thought I saw a
+_kaiyack_ paddle across the mouth of the cove. It was followed by many
+others, that were in succession lost behind the point, with the
+exception of one which seemed to return and look into the inlet. I
+concluded that the natives were in search of us; and, as it was
+desirable to have all the cargo on board when they arrived, the utmost
+despatch was used in loading the boats. Before this operation was
+completed, Mr. Kendall, on attentively examining one of the objects with
+his telescope, suggested that it was not a kaiyack; and accompanying me
+to a sandy eminence nearer the entrance of the cove, we ascertained that
+the whole was an optical deception, caused by the haze of an easterly
+wind magnifying the stumps of drift wood, over which the surf was
+rolling. The imagination, no doubt, assisted in completing the
+resemblance, but the deception, for a few minutes, was perfect.
+
+We quitted Refuge Cove at nine o'clock in the evening, and rounding
+Shoal Islet, steered to the northward along the coast. The circuit of
+Shoal Islet was made because there was too little water to float our
+boats over the bar, which we had crossed the preceding evening. The
+temperature of the air on leaving the cove, was 36 degrees, but it fell
+at midnight to 32 degrees; and the night proved fine. When resting on
+our oars, the boats were drifted to the westward, by a current which we
+ascertained, by subsequent observations, to be the flood tide.
+
+[Sidenote: Sunday, 9th.] After pulling along the coast for some time,
+the ice-blink appeared in the horizon, and about one o'clock in the
+morning on the 9th, we could perceive a stream of ice lying at the
+distance of eight or nine miles from the shore, and inclosing several
+small icebergs. At four o'clock, a northerly breeze springing up,
+brought a quantity of loose ice down upon us, and we made for the shore.
+This part of the coast is skirted to the distance of two miles by flat
+sands, on which there is not more than a foot or eighteen inches of
+water. The depth of water gradually increases to four fathoms, which it
+attains at the distance of six or seven miles from the shore, and the
+heavy ice we saw outside, showed that the depth there was considerable.
+Esquimaux winter-huts occur frequently on the coast, and the rows of
+drift-trees planted in the sand with the roots uppermost, in their
+vicinity, assume very curious forms, when seen through a hazy
+atmosphere. They frequently resembled a crowd of people, and sometimes
+we fancied they were not unlike the spires of a town just appearing
+above the horizon. We learnt by experience that the shore was more
+approachable at the points on which the Esquimaux had built, and we
+effected a landing at one of those places, when, having discharged the
+cargoes, we hauled the boats up, and pitched the tents. The water at our
+landing-place was fresh, but too hard to make tea; and at four or five
+miles from the shore, it was disagreeable to drink. Out of respect to
+Captain Toker of the Royal Navy, under whom I had once the honour to
+serve, his name was given to this Point. Mr. Kendall ascertained its
+latitude to be 69 degrees 38 minutes N.; its longitude by reckoning, 132
+degrees 18 minutes W.; and the variation of the magnetic needle 50-1/2
+degrees easterly. The distance rowed from Refuge Cove was about twelve
+miles. A tide pole was erected, by which it appeared that the ebb ran
+from four o'clock, the time at which we landed, until ten in the
+morning, producing a fall of eighteen inches; but the afternoon tide did
+not rise so high, and at 10h. 50 minutes P.M. it was low water again,
+the wind blowing fresh from the northward all the time.
+
+The vicinity of Point Toker, like the rest of the lands to the eastward
+of Point Encounter, consists of level sands, inclosing pieces of water
+which communicate with the estuary of the river, and interspersed with
+detached conical hills rising from one to two hundred feet above the
+general level. These hills are sometimes escarped by the action of the
+water, and are then seen to consist of sand of various colours, in which
+very large logs of drift-timber are imbedded. They are covered by a coat
+of black vegetable earth, from six inches to a foot in thickness, which
+shows that they cannot be of very recent formation, though at some
+distant period they may have been formed by the drifting of moveable
+sands. At present, the highest floods reach only to the foot of the
+hills, where they deposit a thick layer of drift-timber. One straight
+log of spruce fir, thirty feet long, was seven feet in circumference at
+the small end, and twelve a short distance above the root. The branches
+and bark are almost always rubbed off from the drift-timber which
+reaches the sea, but a few of the main divisions of the root are
+generally left. Various instruments tied up in bundles were suspended to
+poles near some of the Esquimaux houses, such as spear-heads and ice
+chisels made from the tooth of the narwhal, and spoons of musk-ox horn.
+The marine animals that frequent this part of the coast, according to
+the information we obtained from the Esquimaux, are, the white whale,
+the narwhal, large and small seals, (_oggoe-ook_ and _nat-choe-ook_,)
+and a species of black whale, named _aggee-woerk_. There are also many
+sea-fish, of which the capeline (_ang-mag-goe-ook_,) that abound on the
+shoals at this season, are most easily caught. The natives are
+unacquainted with sea-horses. Swans, Canada and white geese, and Arctic
+ducks, are numerous, and we killed several. Ooligbuck likewise killed a
+rein-deer, which afforded us an agreeable change of diet.
+
+In the evening, having assembled in one of the tents, prayers were read,
+a practice to which we adhered on every Sunday evening during the
+voyage. At 10h. 45m. P.M., I lighted a piece of touchwood with a convex
+lens, an inch in diameter, the altitude of the sun being then 3 degrees
+6 minutes. It is seldom that the sun in warmer climates affords so much
+heat at so low an altitude.
+
+[Sidenote: Monday, 10th.] The ice opening a little, we resumed the
+voyage at five o'clock in the morning of the 10th, but had not rowed
+above five miles, when our further progress was impeded by a ridge of
+grounded-ice, extending apparently far out to sea. We landed to obtain a
+view from a height, and took advantage of the opportunity to prepare
+breakfast. Whilst thus engaged, we discovered, on the opposite side of a
+bay which we had just crossed, two of the natives couched upon the sand,
+and evidently watching us; but before we had concluded our meal, they
+went off. On re-embarking, we went round the ice which was aground on
+extensive sandy spits, and then pulled in for the shore; but a fresh
+breeze of wind created such a swell, that we did not advance above three
+miles in two hours. Deeming it unadvisable to fatigue the crews, while
+the progress was so small, we pulled into a sandy bay, and made the
+boats fast to one of many large pieces of ice which were stranded on the
+beach, having gained since setting out in the morning, eight miles.
+
+Just as we made for the shore, we observed three Esquimaux regarding us
+from an eminence, and two others soon afterwards joined them: the latter
+being, as we discovered from the direction of their path over the sands,
+the two we had seen at breakfast-time. They retired as we drew near the
+beach, and on reconnoitring the neighbourhood, we discovered three
+skin-tents, whose owners were running off with their effects in great
+alarm. As we had experienced how troublesome the natives were, when
+relieved from their fears, we did not seek an interview at this time;
+and to guard against accidents from parties of them way-laying our men,
+I determined that, while we remained in this anchorage, the crews should
+land only to cook their provisions and then be accompanied either by Mr.
+Kendall or myself. The water at our anchorage was decidedly brackish,
+the beach was strewed with _sertulariæ_ and other marine productions,
+and several white whales were seen in the offing; all which
+circumstances being considered as decided evidences of our having
+reached the mouth of the river, that event was celebrated by issuing to
+each of the men a glass of grog, which had been reserved for the
+occasion.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[4] As the reader may desire to know what hieroglyphics were used to
+express our intentions, a copy of the letter is annexed.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+[5] Robertson's _History of America_.
+
+[6] _Harmon's Journal_, p. 288.
+
+[7] The Esquimaux method of settling disputes, which we learned from
+Augustus, deserves to be mentioned, not only as being very different
+from the sullen conduct of an affronted Indian, but from its coincidence
+with the practice of a people widely separated from them--the native
+inhabitants of Sydney, in New South Wales. Mr. Cunningham, in his
+entertaining work on New South Wales, says, "The common practice of
+fighting amongst the natives is still with the _waddie_, each
+alternately stooping the head to receive the other's blows, until one
+tumbles down, it being considered cowardly to evade a stroke." The
+Esquimaux use the fist instead of the waddie, in these singular duels,
+but there is no other difference betwixt their practice and that of the
+New South Wales' people. Another coincidence betwixt the Esquimaux and
+the inhabitants of Australasia, is the use of the throwing stick for
+discharging their spears.
+
+
+
+
+CONTINUATION OF THE PROCEEDINGS OF THE EASTERN DETACHMENT.
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+Detention by wind--Visited by Esquimaux--Cross a large Stream of fresh
+Water--Winter Houses on Atkinson Island--Gale of Wind, and Fog--Run into
+Browell Cove--Double Cape Dalhousie--Liverpool Bay and Esquimaux
+Lake--Icy Cliffs--Meet another Party of Esquimaux--Cape Bathurst.
+
+
+[Sidenote: Tuesday, 11th.] The wind blew so strongly during the 11th,
+that we remained in our mooring-place, landing occasionally to take a
+little exercise on the beach; and as it continued to freshen from the
+north-east in the evening, most of the ice in the offing had drifted out
+of sight, while a great reduction took place at the same time in the
+number and size of the pieces of stranded ice. One of them which had
+grounded about a mile outside of us, and rose fifteen feet above the
+water, fell over and floated away with the ebb tide. Mr. Kendall
+obtained a meridian observation for latitude, and afterwards took
+several sets of lunar distances, whose results placed our anchorage in
+latitude 69 degrees 42-1/2 minutes N., and longitude 131 degrees 58
+minutes W. In the afternoon two Esquimaux were seen walking fast over a
+hill, and often stopping and looking anxiously around them. About
+midnight two black foxes carried off the scraps of meat that had been
+left at our cooking-place, and buried them carefully in the sand above
+high-water mark. We observed that they dug separate hiding-places for
+each piece, and that they were careful to carry the largest bits
+farthest from the sea. The time spent inactively at the anchorage was so
+irksome, that even the movements of these animals were a subject of much
+interest to us, and we felt great regret when they were scared away by
+the talking of the men in the boats.
+
+[Sidenote: Wednesday, 12th.] No material alteration took place in the
+weather on the 12th. The temperature was 45 degrees; but from the force
+of the wind, and our confinement in the boats, we felt cold. In the
+evening two elderly Esquimaux came to us in their kaiyacks, shouting as
+they approached the boats, and paddling boldly alongside. They told us
+that they were the same two whom we had seen in the morning of the 10th
+watching us while at breakfast, though they had first discovered us on
+the 9th, and had seen Ooligbuck kill the deer, which had alarmed them
+greatly; they had since been to inquire about us from the party at
+Point Encounter, and having learnt that we were well-disposed, they had
+come to open a communication. In allusion, I suppose, to the attempt on
+the Union, they often said that the Esquimaux at the river's mouth were
+bad people, but that they themselves were good-hearted men; and they
+struck their breasts forcibly with their hands, to give energy to their
+assurances. They told us that a large party of their countrymen, who
+were at present fishing at the mouth of a river to the eastward, would
+soon move in this direction to kill white whales. Eetkoo-yak, the
+principal spokesman, invited us to go to his tents, where he said, the
+women would be glad to receive us; and added, that next day he would
+bring four of his countrymen to visit us. We made them a handsome
+present of iron-work; and having paid, with beads, for some dried fish,
+sent them away highly contented.
+
+[Sidenote: Thursday, 13th.] At seven o'clock in the morning of the 13th,
+nine Esquimaux came to us, amongst whom were our two acquaintances of
+yesterday. Some of the young men inquired when we were going away, and
+seemed to be anxious that we should depart; but our friend Eetkoo-yak
+gave us a pressing invitation to his tents, and wished to embark in the
+boats to conduct us thither. We declined his proposal, and the wind
+having moderated, we unmoored the boats, and rowed along the coast. The
+natives followed us, and soon afterwards four women and two boys came
+off in an oomiak, and exchanged some boots, pieces of leather, deer's
+meat, and fish for beads. The point on which their tents were pitched
+was named Point Warren after my friend Captain Samuel Warren, R.N. As we
+continued our course the oomiak returned to the shore, and the men also
+left us soon afterwards, apparently pleased with our departure; for the
+knowledge of the effect of our muskets seemed to have impressed them
+with some dread. They were tattooed across the cheeks. The tribes to the
+westward of the Mackenzie are described by Captain Franklin, (p. 111,)
+as following a different fashion in the application of this ornament.
+
+We coasted this day a flat shore, with dry sands running off to the
+distance of two or three miles, and we passed within several shoals, on
+which some heavy ice had grounded. Only a few small streams of ice were
+seen, although the ice-blink was visible the whole day. Soon after
+rounding Point Warren, we crossed the mouth of a large river, the water
+being muddy and fresh for a breadth of three miles, and the sounding
+lead was let down to the depth of five fathoms, without striking the
+bottom. This river is, perhaps, a branch of the Mackenzie, and falls
+into a bay, on which I have bestowed the name of my esteemed friend
+Copland Hutchinson, Esq. Surgeon Extraordinary to His Royal Highness
+the Duke of Clarence. On its east side there is an island, which was
+named after Captain Charles Phillips, R.N. to whom the nautical world is
+indebted for the double-capstan, and many other important inventions.
+
+At five o'clock in the afternoon, rainy weather setting in, we made for
+a small island, and mooring the boats as near the beach as we could,
+covered them up, and landed to prepare supper. The length of the day's
+voyage was twenty-eight miles and a half. Mr. Kendall named the island
+in honour of Mr. Atkinson, of Berry-House; it is situated in latitude 69
+degrees 55 minutes N., longitude 130 degrees 43 minutes W., and is
+separated from a flat, and occasionally inundated shore, by a narrow
+creek. It is bounded towards the sea by a bulwark of sand-hills, drifted
+by the wind to the height of 30 feet. Under their shelter 17
+winter-houses have been erected by the natives besides a large building
+which from its structure, seemed to be intended for a place of assembly
+for the tribe. Ooligbuck thought it was a general eating-room, but he
+was not certain, as his tribe erect no such buildings.
+
+I annex a section and ground plan of one of the largest of the
+dwelling-houses. The centre (A) is a square of ten feet, having a level
+flooring, with a post at each corner (D,D) to support the
+ridge-poles,[8] on which the roof rests. The recesses (B) are intended
+for sleeping-places. Their floors have a gentle inclination inwards, and
+are raised a foot above the central flooring. Their back walls are a
+foot high, and incline outwards like the back of a chair. The
+ridge-poles are six feet above the floor, the roof being flat in the
+centre, and sloping over the recesses. The inside of the building is
+lined with split-wood, and the outside is strongly but roughly built of
+logs, the whole being covered with earth. An inclined platform (C) forms
+the ascent to the door, which is in the middle of one of the recesses,
+and is four feet high; and the threshold, being on a level with the
+central flooring, is raised three feet above the surrounding ground, to
+guard against inundations. There is a square hole in the roof, near the
+door, intended for ventilation, or for an occasional entrance. As we
+observed no fire-places in these dwellings, it is probable that they are
+heated, and the cookery performed in the winter, with lamps. Some of the
+houses were built front to front, with a very narrow passage between
+them leading to the doors, which were opposite to each other. This
+passage must form a snug porch in the winter when it is covered with
+slabs of frozen snow, and one end stopped up. Some of the larger houses
+which stood single, had log-porches to shelter their doors; and near
+each house there was a square or oblong pit, four feet beneath the
+surface of the ground, lined and covered with drift timber, which was
+evidently intended for a store-house.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The large building for an assembly-room was, in the interior, a square
+of 27 feet, having the log-roof supported on two strong ridge poles, two
+feet apart, and resting on four upright posts. The floor in the centre,
+formed of split logs, dressed and laid with great care, was surrounded
+by a raised border about three feet wide, which was, no doubt, meant for
+seats. The walls, three feet high, were inclined outwards, for the
+convenience of leaning the back against them, and the ascent to the
+door, which was on the south side was formed of logs. The outside,
+covered with earth, had nearly a hemispherical form, and round its base
+there were ranged the skulls of 21 whales. There was a square hole in
+the roof, and the central log of the floor had a basin-shaped cavity,
+one foot in diameter, which was, perhaps, intended for a lamp. The
+general attention to comfort in the construction of the village, and the
+erection of a building of such magnitude, requiring a union of purpose
+in a considerable number of people, are evidences of no small progress
+towards civilization. Whale skulls were confined to the large building,
+and to one of the dwelling-houses, which had 3 or 4 placed round it.
+Many wooden trays, and hand-barrows for carrying whale blubber, were
+lying on the ground, most of them in a state of decay.
+
+Myriads of musquitoes, which reposed among the grass, rose in clouds
+when disturbed, and gave us much annoyance. Many snow birds were
+hatching on the Point, and we saw swans, Canada geese, eider, king,
+arctic, and surf ducks; several glaucous, silvery, black-headed, and
+ivory gulls, together with terns and northern divers. Some laughing
+geese passed to the northward in the evening, which may be considered as
+a sure indication of land in that direction. The sea-water at Atkinson
+Island being quite salt, and the ponds on the shore brackish, we had
+recourse to the ice that lay aground for a supply of fresh water. Strong
+gales of wind, with heavy rain, continued all night.
+
+[Sidenote: Friday, 14th.] The rain ceasing at four o'clock in the
+morning of the 14th, we embarked, and pulled along a sandy bar which
+projected five or six miles from Atkinson Island, and was covered by
+masses of ice. We had not left the beach above an hour, when a thick fog
+hid the land from our view, and a noise of breakers being at the same
+time heard, we deemed it prudent to moor the boats to a piece of
+grounded ice, and wait for clear weather. After a time, the fog
+dispersing partially, we made sail before a fresh breeze towards the
+most easterly point of land in sight, but we had not advanced above five
+or six miles before the looming of the shore on the larboard bow made it
+necessary to haul to the wind; and the fog becoming as dense as ever, we
+ran aground on some flats, where the surf nearly filled the boats. On
+lowering the sails, deeper water was attained, but the wind began to
+blow hard directly upon the shore, and we could not discover a
+landing-place, nor did we even know our distance from the beach. In this
+dilemma we saw a long line of floating sea-weed, and Ooligbuck
+suggesting that it came from the mouth of a river, we followed its
+direction, and, with the aid of the sounding lead, groped our way
+betwixt two shoals into a well sheltered inlet. Here there was a good
+landing-place, and we deemed ourselves peculiarly fortunate in reaching
+so snug a harbour, for the fog continued all day, and the wind increased
+to a heavy gale.
+
+The inlet was named Browell Cove, in honour of the Lieutenant-Governor
+of the Royal Hospital at Greenwich, and the bay to the westward of it,
+M'Kinley Bay, out of respect to Captain George M'Kinley, of the Naval
+Asylum. The latitude of the mouth of Browell Cove is 70 degrees N., and
+the longitude 130 degrees 19 minutes W. We did not ascertain its extent,
+but as its water is brackish, it probably communicates with Esquimaux
+Lake, which, according to Indian report, lies behind the islands that
+form this part of the coast. Several large basins of salt water
+communicate with the cove. Some herds of deer were seen, but too many
+hunters going in pursuit of them they were frightened away. The
+temperature throughout the day was 42 degrees.
+
+I observed forty species of plants in flower here, of which nearly
+one-third were grasses and carices. The Thrift common on the sandy parts
+of the British coast is a frequent ornament of Browell Cove; and seven
+or eight of the other plants seen there, are natives of the Scottish
+hills. Two dwarf species of willows were the only shrubs.
+
+[Sidenote: Saturday, 15th.] The fog clearing away, and the wind
+moderating, we embarked about three in the morning of the 15th; and
+steering along the coast, came to a group of low sandy islands, that
+were separated by wide but very shallow channels, and skirted, to the
+distance of five or six miles, by sand-banks, which were nearly dry at
+low water. In rounding these banks our soundings varied from two feet to
+two fathoms, and we were occasionally led almost out of sight of the
+land. During the whole day we saw much ice to seaward, and in some
+places it was so closely packed as to render it doubtful whether a ship
+would have been able to make way through it. The line of deep water was
+marked by large masses of ice lying aground, and was about ten miles
+from the shore. As we could not reach the beach, we disembarked upon a
+piece of ice at noon, and cutting up a spare seat for fire-wood,
+proceeded to cook our breakfast, and make observations for latitude and
+magnetic variation.
+
+After rounding the shoals, we made a traverse of ten miles across an
+inlet, where the water ran out with a strong current; and, though five
+fathoms deep, it was nearly fresh. This I supposed to be another
+communication betwixt Esquimaux Lake and the sea, and named it Russel
+Inlet, after the distinguished Professor of Clinical Surgery in the
+University of Edinburgh. The land on its western side was called Cape
+Brown, out of respect to the eminent botanist, whose scientific
+researches reflect so much credit on British talent; and that to the
+eastward of the inlet received the name of Dalhousie, in honour of His
+Excellency the Governor-in-Chief of the Canadas. Cape Dalhousie consists
+of a number of high, sandy islands, resembling those seen from Sacred
+Island, in the mouth of the Mackenzie. We entered some deep inlets
+amongst them, in search of a landing-place, but the beach was every
+where too flat. At length, after dragging the boats through the mud for
+a considerable way, and carrying the cargoes for a quarter of a mile
+over a flat sand, we reached the shore, and pitched the tents. The
+island on which we encamped was similar to the others, being from one
+hundred to one hundred and fifty feet high above the water, and bounded
+on all sides by steep, sandy cliffs, which were skirted by flat sands.
+From the summit of the island we had the unpleasant view of a sea
+covered with floating ice, as far as the eye could reach to the
+eastward. Temperature during the greater part of the day 55 degrees; at
+nine P.M. 52 degrees. Wind easterly. The length of this day's voyage was
+thirty miles and a half; the latitude of the encampment 70 degrees 12
+minutes, and longitude 129 degrees 21 minutes W.
+
+[Sidenote: Sunday, 16th.] On the 16th the boats were afloat, and loaded
+by seven in the morning, when we pulled round Cape Dalhousie, and found
+the land trending as we wished to the south-east. Since reaching the
+sea, the coast had gradually inclined to the northward, which with the
+increased quantity of ice seen on the two or three last days, led us to
+fear that a cape might exist, extending so far to the northward, as to
+prevent us from reaching the Coppermine River within the period to which
+our voyage was limited. It was, therefore, with peculiar satisfaction,
+that, on putting ashore to cook breakfast, we saw distant land to the
+S.E., apparently of greater height than that which we had recently
+coasted; and we now flattered ourselves that we were about to leave
+behind us the low coasts and shoals, which render the boat navigation
+across the mouths of the Mackenzie and Esquimaux Lake so perplexing and
+hazardous. Many deer were seen at our breakfasting-place, and the
+musquitoes annoyed them so much that there would have been no difficulty
+in approaching them, if we could have spared time to send out the
+hunters.
+
+Having obtained an observation for latitude, we directed our course to a
+projecting point across an inlet, with no land visible towards its
+bottom. The soundings in the middle of the opening exceeded nine
+fathoms; the water became less salt as we advanced, and at last could
+only be termed brackish. The point proved to be an Island sixteen miles
+distant from our breakfasting-place; and as we approached it, we had the
+mortification to perceive a coast seven or eight miles beyond it,
+apparently continuous, and trending away to the north-north-west. The
+island was named Nicholson Island, as a mark of my esteem for William
+Nicholson, Esq., of Rochester. It is bounded by high cliffs of sand and
+mud, and rises in the interior to the height of four hundred feet above
+the sea. The cliffs were thawed to the depth of three feet, but frozen
+underneath, and the water issuing from the thawing ground caused the mud
+to boil out and flow down the banks. There were many small lakes on the
+island, and a tolerably good vegetation. Amongst other plants I gathered
+here a very beautiful American cowslip, (_dodecatheon_,) which grew in
+the moist valleys. From the summit of the island a piece of water,
+resembling a large river, and bearing south, was seen winding through a
+country pleasantly varied by gently swelling hills and dales, and
+differing so much in character from the alluvial islands we had just
+left, that I thought myself justified in considering it to be part of
+the main land. From S.W. to W.N.W. open water was seen, broken only by a
+few islands, that were named after Major-General Campbell, of the Royal
+Marines. This large sheet of water is undoubtedly the Esquimaux Lake,
+which, according to the natives, not only communicates with the eastern
+branch of the Mackenzie, but receives, besides, two large rivers; and,
+consequently, the whole of the land which we coasted from Point
+Encounter, is a collection of islands. The temperature varied this day
+from 38 degrees to 55 degrees. The length of the day's voyage was
+thirty-three miles, the latitude of our encampment 69 degrees 57
+minutes, and longitude 128 degrees 18 minutes W.
+
+[Sidenote: Monday, 17th.] On the 17th a thick fog detained us until nine
+o'clock in the morning, when it dispersed, and we left our encampment.
+About two miles from Nicholson's Island the water was nine fathoms deep,
+and had a brackish taste; but as we continued our course to the
+northward, it became shoaler and salter. This added to the probability
+of the winding channel, which bore south, being a large river; and that
+opinion was further strengthened by our observing, when we landed to
+breakfast, the shore to be strewed with tide-wrack, resembling that
+which is generally found on the banks of rivers in this country, such as
+pieces of willows, fragments of fresh-water plants, and lumps of peat
+earth. We were delighted to find here a beach of sand and fine gravel,
+bold enough to admit of our running the boats upon it. The fresh
+footsteps of a party of Esquimaux were seen on the sand.
+
+After obtaining an observation for latitude, we embarked, and continued
+our course along the coast until we came to the extremity of a cape,
+which was formed by an island separated from the main by a shallow
+channel. The cliffs of this island were about forty feet high, and the
+snow which had accumulated under them in the winter, was not yet
+dissolved, but, owing to the infiltration and freezing of water, now
+formed an inclined bank of ice, nearly two-thirds of the height of the
+cliff. This bank, or iceberg, being undermined by the action of the
+waves, maintained its position only by its adhesion to the frozen cliffs
+behind it. In some places large masses had broken off and floated away,
+whilst in others the currents of melting snow floating from the flat
+land above, had covered the ice with a thick coating of earth; so that
+at first sight it appeared as if the bank had broken down; the real
+structure of the iceberg being perceptible only where rents existed. In
+a similar manner the frozen banks, or icebergs, covered with earth,
+mentioned by Lieutenant Kotzebue, in his voyage to Behring Straits,
+might have been formed. Had the whole mass of frozen snow broken off
+from this bank, an iceberg would have been produced thirty feet wide at
+its base, and covered on one side to the depth of a foot, or more, with
+black earth. The island was composed of sand and slaty clay, into which
+the thaw had not penetrated above a foot. The ravines were lined with
+fragments of compact white limestone, and a few dwarf-birches and
+willows grew on their sides. The sun's rays were very powerful this day,
+and the heat was oppressive, even while sitting at rest in the boat; the
+temperature of the air at noon being, in the shade, 62 degrees, and that
+of the surface water, where the soundings were three fathoms, 55
+degrees.
+
+Immediately after rounding the cape, which was named after His
+Excellency Sir Peregrine Maitland, Lieutenant-Governor of Upper Canada,
+we entered a channel ten miles wide, running to the eastward, with an
+open horizon in that direction; and a doubt arose as to whether it was a
+strait, or merely a bay. Many large masses of ice were floating in it,
+which proved to us that it had considerable depth; but the water being
+only brackish, excited a suspicion that there was no passage through it.
+While we were hesitating whether to hazard a loss of time by exploring
+the opening, or to cross over at once to the northern land, several deer
+were seen, and the hope of procuring a supply of fresh meat, induced us
+to put ashore and encamp for the night, that the hunters might go in
+chase. The beach here was strewed with fragments of dark-red sandstone,
+white sandstone, white compact limestone, and a few pieces of syenite.
+There were many large trunks of spruce-firs lying on the sand,
+completely denuded of their bark and branches; and numerous exuviæ of a
+marine crustaceous animal (_gammarus borealis_) lay at high water mark.
+Our hunters were successful, Ooligbuck and M'Leay each killing a deer.
+Many of these animals had fled to the cool moist sands on the coast, but
+even there the musquitoes tormented them so much as to render them
+regardless of the approach of the hunters. The latitude of our
+encampment was 70 degrees 7 minutes, longitude 127 degrees 45 minutes;
+and the length of the day's voyage twenty-three miles. The temperature
+varied from 52 degrees to 63 degrees. By watching the motion of the tide
+for the greater part of the night, I fully satisfied myself that the ebb
+set out of the opening, and that the flood came round the land on the
+north side; hence I concluded that there could be no passage to the
+eastward in this direction, and that the opening led into a bay, to
+which the name of Harrowby was given, in honour of the Right Honourable
+the Earl of Harrowby.
+
+[Sidenote: Tuesday, 18th.] Embarking on the 18th at three in the
+morning, we set the sails to a favourable though light breeze, and using
+the oars at the same time, crossed Harrowby Bay, at its mouth. During
+the traverse, land was seen round the bottom of the bay. On nearing the
+shore we distinguished twelve Esquimaux tents on an eminence; and a
+woman who was walking on the beach gave the alarm, but not until we were
+near enough to speak to her, her surprise having fixed her to the spot
+for a time. The men then rushed out, brandishing their knives, and,
+using the most threatening expressions, forbade us to land, and desired
+us to return by the way we came. Ooligbuck endeavoured to calm their
+fears, by telling them that we were friends, but they replied only by
+repeating their threats, and by hideous grimaces and gestures, which
+displayed great agility; frequently standing on one foot and throwing
+the other nearly as high as the head. At length on my bawling
+"_noowoerlawgo_," (I wish to barter,) they became quiet at once, and one
+of them running to his kaiyack, and paddling off to us, was followed by
+many of the others, even before they could witness the reception we gave
+him. They came boldly alongside, and exchanged their spears, arrows,
+bows, and some pieces of well-dressed seal-skin, for bits of old
+iron-hoop, files and beads. They were not so well furnished with
+iron-work as the Esquimaux we had seen further to the westward, and very
+eagerly received a supply from us. In our intercourse with them we
+experienced much advantage from a simple contrivance suggested by Mr.
+Kendall, and constructed during our halt in Refuge Cove: it was a
+barricade formed by raising the masts and spare oars eighteen inches
+above the gunwale on two crutches or davits, which not only prevented
+our Esquimaux visitors from stealing out of the boats, but, in the event
+of a quarrel, could have been rendered arrow proof by throwing the
+blankets or sails over it. On a light breeze springing up we set the
+sails, and continuing to ply the oars, advanced at the rate of four
+miles an hour, attended by eleven kaiyacks. Three oomiaks with the
+women followed us, and we found that, when rowed by two women, and
+steered by a third, they surpassed our boats in speed.
+
+The females, unlike those of the Indian tribes, had much handsomer
+features than the men; and one young woman of the party would have been
+deemed pretty even in Europe. Our presents seemed to render them
+perfectly happy, and they danced with such ecstasy in their slender
+boats as to incur, more than once, great hazard of being overset. A
+bundle of strings of beads being thrown into an oomiak, it was caught by
+an old woman, who hugged the treasure to her breast with the strongest
+expression of rapture, while another elderly dame, who had stretched out
+her arms in vain, became the very picture of despair. On my explaining,
+however that the present was for the whole, an amicable division
+instantly took place; and to show their gratitude, they sang a song to a
+pleasing air, keeping time with their oars. They gave us many pressing
+invitations to pass the night at their tents, in which they were joined
+by the men; and to excite our liberality the mothers drew their children
+out of their wide hoods, where they are accustomed to carry them naked,
+and holding them up begged beads for them. Their entreaties were, for a
+time, successful; but being desirous of getting clear of our visitors
+before breakfast-time, we at length told them that our stock was
+exhausted, and they took leave.
+
+These Esquimaux were as inquisitive as the others we had seen respecting
+our names, and were very desirous of teaching us the true pronunciation
+of theirs. They informed us that they had seen Indians, and had heard of
+white people, but had never seen any before. My giving a little deer's
+meat to one of them in exchange for fish, led to an inquiry as to how we
+killed the animal. On which Ooligbuck showed them his gun, and obtaining
+permission, fired it off after cautioning them not to be alarmed. The
+report astonished them much, and an echo from some neighbouring pieces
+of ice made them think that the ball had struck the shore, then upwards
+of a mile distant. The women had left us previously; several of the men
+departed the instant they heard the report; and the rest, in a short
+time, followed their example. They applied to the gun the same name
+they give to their harpoons for killing whales.
+
+We learned from these people that the shore we were now coasting was
+part of the main land, and that some land to the northward, which
+appeared soon after we had passed their tents, consisted of two islands;
+between which and the main shore, there was a passage leading to the
+open sea. On landing to cook breakfast and obtain a meridian observation
+for latitude, we observed the interior of the country to be similar to
+that seen from Nicholson's Island. The soil was in some spots sandy,
+but, generally, it consisted of a tenacious clay which cracks in the
+sun. The air was perfumed by numerous tufts of a beautiful phlox, and of
+a still handsomer and very fragrant cruciform flower, of a genus
+hitherto undescribed.
+
+On re-embarking we pulled about eight miles farther betwixt the islands
+and the main, and found a narrow opening to the sea nearly barred up.
+The bottom was so soft and muddy that the poles sunk deep into it, and
+we could not carry the cargo ashore to lighten the boats. We succeeded,
+however, in getting through, after much labour, and the moment we
+crossed the bar, the water was greenish, and perfectly salt. The cape
+forming the eastern point of this entrance lies in latitude 70 degrees
+36 minutes N., longitude 127 degrees 35 minutes W. and proved to be the
+most northerly part of the main shore which we saw during the voyage. It
+is a few miles farther north than Return Reef of Captain Franklin, and
+is most probably, with the exception of the land near Icy Cape, since
+discovered by Captain Beechey, in the Blossom, the most northern point
+of the American Continent. It was called Cape Bathurst, in honour of the
+Right Honourable the Earl of Bathurst, and the islands lying off it were
+named after George Baillie, Esq., of the Colonial Office. I could not
+account in any other way for the comparative freshness of the sheet of
+water we had left, than by supposing that a sand-bank extended from Cape
+Dalhousie to Baillie's Islands, impeding the communication with the sea,
+and this notion was supported by a line of heavy ice which was seen both
+from Cape Bathurst and Cape Dalhousie, in the direction of the supposed
+bar, and apparently aground.
+
+Taking for granted that the accounts we received from the natives were
+(as our own observations led us to believe) correct, Esquimaux Lake is a
+very extensive and curious piece of water. The Indians say that it
+reaches to within four days' march of Fort Good Hope; and the Esquimaux
+informed us that it extends from Point Encounter to Cape Bathurst, thus
+ascribing to it an extent from north to south of more than one hundred
+and forty miles, and from east to west of one hundred and fifty. It is
+reported to be full of islands, to be every where brackish; and, besides
+its communication with the eastern branch of the Mackenzie, to receive
+two other large rivers. If a conjecture may be hazarded about the
+original formation of a lake which we had so few opportunities of
+examining, it seems probable that the alluvial matters brought down by
+the Mackenzie, and other rivers, have gradually formed a barrier of
+islands and shoals, which, by preventing the free access of the tide,
+enables the fresh water to maintain the predominance behind it. The
+action of the waves of the sea has a tendency to increase the height of
+the barrier, while the currents of the rivers and ebb-tide preserve the
+depth of the lake. A great formation of wood-coal will, I doubt not, be
+ultimately formed by the immense quantities of drift-timber annually
+deposited on the borders of Esquimaux Lake.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[8] The ridge-poles were omitted in the section by mistake.
+
+
+
+
+CONTINUATION OF THE PROCEEDINGS OF THE EASTERN DETACHMENT.
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+Double Cape Bathurst--Whales--Bituminous-shale Cliffs on Fire--Enter
+Franklin Bay--Heavy Gale--Peninsula of Cape Parry--Perforated
+Rock--Detention at Cape Lyon by Wind--Force of an Esquimaux Arrow--Meet
+with heavy Ice--Pass Union and Dolphin Straits--Double Cape Krusenstern,
+and enter George the Fourth's Coronation Gulph--Reach the Coppermine
+River--Remarks--Meteorological Table.
+
+
+As soon as we entered the clear green water off Cape Bathurst, we
+perceived a strong flood tide setting against us, and saw several white
+whales, and some black ones of a large size, but of a species unknown to
+Ooligbuck.[9] The natives term them _aggeewoerk_, which is the name
+given, by the Esquimaux of Hudson's Bay, to the black whales that
+frequent the Welcome. Many large masses of ice were floating about, but
+they were no impediment to the boats. The beach, from the time we left
+Esquimaux Lake, was bold, there being two or three fathoms water close
+to the shore. We hailed this change of circumstances with pleasure, for
+the shoals and islands skirting Esquimaux Lake had embarrassed us much,
+and the brackishness of the water, combined with the trending of the
+coast to the northward, and even westward, had excited in our minds an
+apprehension, that we might possibly be obliged to make a great circuit
+in search of a passage, out of that extraordinary piece of water, and
+that the opening, when found, might lie so far to the northward as to be
+obstructed by an icy sea. Fortunately our fears were groundless; and, to
+increase our joy, the coast-line from Cape Bathurst appeared to run in a
+straight direction for Coppermine River. There were many winter-houses
+built by the Esquimaux on Cape Bathurst. The cliffs facing the sea were
+still frozen, but the water trickling down their sides showed that they
+were thawing rapidly. We encamped on the beach in latitude 70 degrees
+32-1/2 minutes N., longitude 127 degrees 21 minutes W., having sailed
+that day thirty-seven miles. A plentiful supply of very fine sorrel
+(_oxyria reniformis_) being obtained from the banks, proved an agreeable
+addition to our supper.
+
+[Sidenote: Wednesday, 19th.] Embarking at four o'clock in the morning of
+the 19th, we rowed along the coast close to the beach, in from two to
+three fathoms water. We landed at noon to observe the latitude; and at
+four P.M. a thunder-storm coming on, induced us to encamp for the night.
+The day's voyage was thirty-two miles, and our encampment was situated
+in latitude 70 degrees 11 minutes N., longitude 126 degrees 15 minutes
+W., on a point which was named after Dr. Fitton, the distinguished
+President of the Geological Society. No land was visible to seaward, nor
+were any fields of ice or large floes seen, but we passed many smaller
+pieces and some masses, that, having stranded on the beach, were
+dissolving with great rapidity. A regular tide of six hours affecting
+the rate of our progress, an allowance was made for it in the reckoning.
+
+The coast consists of precipitous banks, similar in structure to the
+bituminous-shale cliffs at Whitby, in Yorkshire. They gradually increase
+in altitude from Cape Bathurst, and near our encampment their height
+exceeded two hundred and fifty feet. The shale was in a state of
+ignition in many places, and the hot sulphureous airs from the land were
+strongly contrasted with cold sea-breezes with which, in the morning,
+they alternated. The combustion had proceeded to a considerable extent
+on the point where we landed at noon. Much alum had formed, and the
+baked clays of yellow, brown, white, and red colours, caused the place
+to resemble a brick-field or a pottery. This point, which was named
+after Dr. Traill, of Liverpool, lies in latitude 70 degrees 19 minutes
+N. The interior of the country, as seen from the top of the cliffs,
+appeared to be nearly level, and to abound in small lakes. The soil was
+clayey, and from the recent thaw wet and soft. Tufts of the beautiful
+phlox, before mentioned, were scattered over these, otherwise unsightly
+wastes; and, notwithstanding the scanty vegetation, rein-deer were
+numerous. Some of the young ones, to whom man was doubtless a novel
+object, came trotting up to gratify their curiosity, and were suffered
+to depart unmolested. The sea here abounds in molluscæ, and many black
+whales were seen; also king-ducks, eiders, snow-birds, hawks, and a
+large moth.
+
+[Sidenote: Thursday, 20th.] We embarked at half-past two on the morning
+of the 20th, and ran alongshore for two hours with a strong and
+favourable breeze, when shoals lying off the mouth of a pretty large
+river, led us six or seven miles from the coast. The breeze, which was
+off the land, freshened considerably, and raised a short breaking sea,
+through which we attempted to pull towards the shore, but the boats
+shipped much water, and made little head-way. We, therefore, set the
+sails again, and, fortunately fetched under a headland, and effected a
+landing. The whole of the pemmican in the Union, and some of that in the
+Dolphin, was wet on this occasion. In the morning we had passed two
+Esquimaux tents, pitched on the beach, but the inmates seeming to be
+asleep, we did not disturb them, being unwilling to lose the fair wind
+by any delay.
+
+Soon after landing the weather became very foggy, and the wind increased
+to a heavy gale. The cliffs at our encampment consisted of slate-clay,
+and bituminous alum-slate, and were six hundred feet high. The river,
+whose mouth we passed, ran close behind them, having a course parallel
+to the coast for some miles before it makes its way to the sea. It was
+named Wilmot Horton River, in honour of the Under Secretary of State for
+the Colonial Department. Its breadth is about three hundred yards, and
+it seems, from the quantity of drift-timber that was piled on the shoals
+at its mouth, to flow through a wooded country. The length of this day's
+voyage was twenty-four miles, and the position of our encampment was in
+latitude 69 degrees 50 minutes N., longitude 125 degrees 55 minutes W.
+At high-water, which took place at a quarter past four in the afternoon,
+the small slip of beach on which we had encamped was almost covered, and
+we had to pile the baggage on the shelving cliff. A very showy species
+of gromwell grew near our encampment, in company with the common
+sea-gromwell, (_lithospermum maritimum_.)
+
+[Sidenote: Friday, 21st.] On the 21st strong winds and foggy weather,
+with a considerable surf on the beach, detained us until after eight
+o'clock in the morning, when many large masses of ice coming in, took
+the ground near the shore, and smoothed the water sufficiently to enable
+us to embark. The fog was dense to seaward and over the land, but the
+height of the cliffs left a space of about a mile from the beach, over
+which it was carried by the violence of the wind.
+
+About two miles from our late encampment, the bituminous shale was again
+noticed to be on fire, giving out much smoke; and as we advanced, the
+cliffs became less precipitous, appearing as if they had fallen down
+from the consumption of the combustible strata. They gradually
+terminated in a green and sloping bank, whose summit, about two miles
+from the sea, rose to the height of about six hundred feet. For the
+information of the general reader, I may mention that the shale takes
+fire in consequence of its containing a considerable quantity of sulphur
+in a state of such minute division, that it very readily attracts oxygen
+from the atmosphere, and inflames. The combustion is rendered more
+lively by the presence of bitumen; and the sulphuric acid, which is one
+of its products, unites with the alumina of the shale to form, with the
+addition of a small quantity of potass, the triple salt, well known by
+the name of alum. The moistening of the strata by the sea-spray
+accelerates the process. In some alum-works, where nature has not been
+so favourable as in the cliffs of Cape Bathurst, a deficiency of the
+bituminous matter requisite to keep up the proper intensity of
+combustion, is supplied by brush-wood, which is strewed in alternate
+layers with shale that has been previously much divided by long exposure
+to the weather, and the whole is then moistened with salt-water. A
+further account of these cliffs is given in page xl. of the Appendix.
+
+In the forenoon we passed the mouths of two small rivers, which were
+designated after Sir Henry Jardine, Bart., King's Remembrancer in the
+Court of Exchequer for Scotland; and Dr. Burnett, Commissioner of the
+Victualling Board. A meridian observation was obtained in latitude 69
+degrees 38 minutes N.
+
+In the afternoon the wind blowing more on the shore, caused a tumbling
+sea. We sailed amongst much stranded ice, and, following the line of
+coast, were gradually led into a deep bay, whose east side, having a
+northerly direction, was formed by low land, and so much broken by
+numerous and extensive inlets, as to look more like a collection of
+islands than a part of the main land. We were now, reckoning by degrees
+of longitude, fully half way from Point Separation to the Coppermine
+River, and the coast from Cape Bathurst had been so exactly in the
+proper direction, as to excite high hopes of a short and prosperous
+voyage: it was, therefore, no pleasant sight to us to behold land
+running out at right angles to our course, and we were willing to
+believe that a passage existed betwixt it and the main. This opinion was
+supported by the direction of the high land, which had hitherto skirted
+the shore, continuing to be south-easterly, until lost to the sight at
+the distance of fifteen or twenty miles. We, therefore, endeavoured to
+find a passage, but the first opening that we came to, led into a
+circular basin of water, apparently land-locked, and about five miles in
+diameter. We halted at its entrance to cook our supper, and, during our
+stay, perceiving that the ebb-tide set out of it, we determined on
+searching for a passage elsewhere. This inlet is six fathoms deep at its
+entrance, and would prove an excellent harbour for a ship, only for the
+sand-banks, which skirt this part of the coast, and which render the
+passage into it too intricate for vessels having a greater draught of
+water than our boats. It was named Langton Harbour, after the agent for
+the Hudson's Bay Company at Liverpool.
+
+Leaving this harbour, and steering to the northward, we passed several
+inlets, into which the flood-tide set with a strong current. We could
+not see land towards their bottoms, but their mouths were shoal, and we
+felt convinced that there was no passage through them, because the
+flood-tide entered them from the westward. [Sidenote: Saturday, 22nd.]
+We, therefore, proceeded on our voyage without wasting time in examining
+them; and at two o'clock, on the morning of the 22nd, having come
+fifty-four miles, we encamped on a beach composed of small fragments of
+limestone, and strewed with sea-weed. This beach, which received the
+name of Point Stivens, separates an extensive sheet of salt-water from
+the sea, and is similar in character to the Chesil Beach, that connects
+the Isle of Portland to the shore. It varies in breadth from one hundred
+yards to a quarter of a mile, is several miles long, has a northern
+direction, and seems to have been formed by the sweep of the tide round
+the bay, meeting the ebb from the basins that intersects the peninsular
+promontory with which it is connected. There are several narrow breaches
+in it through which the tide flows. Anxious to discover the termination
+of this promontory which was leading us so much out of the direct course
+to the Coppermine, I went to the summit of a rising ground, about five
+miles distant, but the view was closed by some small hills, two or three
+miles off. The soil was clayey, and vegetation scanty.
+
+In taking wood to make a fire, from a large pile of drift-timber which
+had been collected by the Esquimaux, the nest of a snow-bird, containing
+four young, was discovered. The parent bird was at first scared away,
+but affection for its offspring at length gave it courage to approach
+them with food; and as it was not molested it soon became quite
+fearless, and fed them with the larvæ of insects, whilst the party were
+seated at breakfast close by the nest.
+
+At nine o'clock, A.M., we embarked again, and running before a
+favourable breeze, came to a point consisting of cliffs of limestone,
+twenty feet high, with a small island of the same kind of rock at its
+extremity. Many large boulders of greenstone were seen here. After
+ascertaining the latitude by meridian observation to be 69 degrees 42
+minutes N., we continued our voyage along a bold shore, consisting of
+precipices of limestone, forty or fifty feet high, with three or four
+fathoms of water at the base. In the evening, having reached a
+projection which appeared to be the western pitch of the cape, we
+encamped in a bay near a remarkable perforated rock, having come
+twenty-six miles since leaving Point Stivens. In the course of the day's
+voyage we had to make our way through some pretty extensive streams of
+ice, composed of pieces which rose eight or ten feet above the water;
+and we saw a considerable quantity of what is termed sailing ice to
+seaward, being such as a ship could make her way through. I had now the
+gratification of naming the extensive bay we had been coasting for three
+days, after my friend and commanding officer; and to the several inlets
+on its eastern side I assigned the names of Wright, Cracroft, and
+Sellwood, in honour of his near relatives. A group of islands to the
+northward was named Booth Islands on the same account.
+
+In bestowing the name of Franklin on this remarkable bay, I paid an
+appropriate compliment to the officer, under whose orders and by whose
+arrangements the delineation of all that is known of the northern coast
+of the American Continent has been effected; with the exception of the
+parts in the vicinity of Icy Cape discovered by Captain Beechey. It
+would not be proper, nor is it my intention, to descant on the
+professional merits of my superior officer; but after having served
+under Captain Franklin for nearly seven years, in two successive voyages
+of discovery, I trust I may be allowed to say, that however high his
+brother officers may rate his courage and talents, either in the
+ordinary line of his professional duty, or in the field of discovery,
+the hold he acquires upon the affections of those under his command, by
+a continued series of the most conciliating attentions to their
+feelings, and an uniform and unremitting regard to their best interests,
+is not less conspicuous. I feel that the sentiments of my friends and
+companions, Captain Back and Lieutenant Kendall, are in unison with my
+own, when I affirm, that gratitude and attachment to our late commanding
+officer will animate our breasts to the latest period of our lives.
+After this feeble but sincere tribute of respect and regard, in which I
+hope I have not overstepped the proper bounds of a narrative, I hasten
+to resume the details of the voyage.
+
+The country in the neighbourhood of the encampment consisted entirely of
+limestone, mostly of the variety named dolomite, and, as is usual where
+that stone prevails, it was extremely barren. The cliffs and points of
+land present many caverns and perforated rocks, which have very strong
+resemblances to the windows and crypts of Gothic buildings. The common
+kittiwake breeds in great numbers on the rocky ledges in this quarter,
+and their young were already fledged. The temperature during the day was
+nearly stationary at 46 degrees, the wind south. The evening being very
+fine, the pemmican was taken out of the bags, which were scraped and
+dried; and our loss of provision, by the wetting it sustained in the
+gale of the 20th, proved to be less than we had expected.
+
+[Sidenote: Sunday, 23rd.] Embarking at four o'clock, A.M. of the 23d, we
+sailed with a favourable breeze for nine miles, betwixt Booth Islands
+and a shore presenting alternately projecting rocky shoals and narrow
+inlets. We then landed, and ascended a hill, about seven hundred feet
+high, to ascertain the direction of the coast, and had the satisfaction
+of finding that we had now reached the northern extremity of this
+remarkable promontory. It was named Cape Parry after the distinguished
+navigator whose skill and perseverance have created an era in the
+progress of northern discovery, and a letter addressed to him,
+containing information of our proceedings and of Captain Franklin's as
+far as was known to us, was deposited under a pile of stones which we
+erected on the summit of the hill. From this elevated situation, land
+was faintly seen bearing S.E. by S., about forty miles distant; and from
+thence round to Booth Islands there appeared an open sea, merely studded
+with a few streams of sailing ice, but no islands were seen in that
+direction. There are many well sheltered coves in the vicinity of Cape
+Parry and amongst Booth Islands, but the bottom is rocky, and numerous
+reefs render the navigation unsafe for a ship. The eastern side of Cape
+Parry exhibits a succession of limestone cliffs, similar to those which
+form its western shores; and as we continued our voyage, we passed many
+excavations ornamented by graceful slender pillars, and exhibiting so
+perfect a similarity to the pure Gothic arch, that had Nature made many
+such displays in the Old world, there would be but one opinion as to the
+origin of that style of architecture. A small island, on which we landed
+to cook breakfast, was named after the late Daniel Moore, Esq., of
+Lincoln's Inn. It was composed of a cellular limestone, containing many
+crystals of quartz. The whole party went in pursuit of a polar hare
+which was seen here, but, although it had no other shelter than the
+rocks, it contrived to escape from us all.
+
+In the evening we encamped on an island, which was named by Mr. Kendall
+after the Reverend Dr. Burrow of Epping. It is situated in latitude 69
+degrees 49 minutes N., longitude 123 degrees 33 minutes W. The length of
+the day's voyage was thirty-one miles. Fine weather, and a temperature
+of 52 degrees, entailed upon us a visit from the musquitoes. The sea
+water here is of a light blue colour and clear, the bottom being
+distinctly visible in five fathoms. Pieces of ice still adhered to the
+cliffs.
+
+[Sidenote: Monday, 24th.] We were detained in the morning of the 24th by
+a thick fog, which cleared up about eight o'clock; but the moon being
+then in distance, we remained until noon, that Mr. Kendall might take
+observations for lunars and latitude. These necessary operations being
+completed, a short voyage of nine miles brought us to an island on which
+we encamped, and which obtained from us the name of Clapperton, in
+honour of the undaunted explorer of central Africa. In our way we passed
+through several streams of ice, composed of pieces of considerable size,
+but all evidently in a state of rapid dissolution, under a bright sun;
+the water flowing from their surfaces in rivulets. Many black whales,
+and various kinds of seals, were seen this day. We saw no black whales
+farther to the eastward.
+
+From Clapperton Island we had a view of a ridge of hills, which, from
+their direction, appeared to be a continuation of those on the west side
+on Franklin Bay. The island itself, like the neighbouring coast, is
+composed of limestone, and many detached rocks skirt it, rising from
+water that is beautifully clear. When we landed there was a strong
+current setting to the eastward, round the end of the island, but it
+ceased at four P.M., the time of low water, and was probably produced by
+the ebb setting out of some of the inlets of Cape Parry. In the evening
+the ice made a noise so like the regular firing of half-minute guns, as
+to excite, at first, an idea that we heard the guns of a ship. The
+temperature at six o'clock in the evening was as high as 74 degrees in
+the shade.
+
+Clapperton Island lies in latitude 69 degrees 41-1/2 minutes N., and
+nearly in the longitude of Fort Franklin, from which it is distant
+three hundred and thirteen miles in a straight line; but the distance
+between the nearer part of the Great Bear Lake and the Arctic Sea here,
+does not much exceed one hundred and ninety miles.
+
+[Sidenote: Tuesday, 25th.] Taking advantage of a light breeze and very
+fine weather, we embarked at midnight, and crossed over to the east side
+of the bay, passing through some heavy streams of ice by rather
+intricate channels. At half past five in the morning of the 25th, we
+landed on a point of the main shore, and Mr. Kendall took observations
+for three sets of lunars. On re-embarking we proceeded a few miles
+further, when a heavy gale of wind suddenly springing up, we ran for
+shelter into a small creek at the extremity of a cape, which I named
+after the distinguished traveller Captain G.F. Lyon, R.N. The bay which
+lies betwixt it and Cape Parry, was called Darnley, in honour of the
+Earl of Darnley. The distance from Clapperton Island to Cape Lyon is
+fourteen miles.
+
+The country in the neighbourhood of Cape Lyon presents a surface varied
+by gently swelling eminences, covered with a grassy sward, and
+intersected by several narrow ridges of naked trap rocks, rising about
+one hundred and fifty feet above the general level. The trap ridges,
+when they reach the coast, form high cliffs, and the clay-slate and
+limestone lie in nearly horizontal strata beneath them. The view inland
+was terminated by the range of hills which we had seen at the bottom of
+Darnley Bay, to which the name of Melville Range was now given, in
+honour of the Right Honourable the Lord Viscount Melville.
+
+From the top of the highest trap-hill, near the extremity of the cape,
+we saw some heavy ice to seaward, but with enough of open water for the
+passage of a ship; and, occasionally, during our stay, there was an
+appearance of land to the north-westward, occupying two points of the
+compass; but we were uncertain whether it might not be a fog-bank
+hanging over a field of ice. If it was land, it could not be less than
+twenty-five or thirty miles distant, and must, from the portion of the
+horizon it occupied, be a large island. Upon the summit of the hill we
+erected a pile of stones, and deposited another letter for Captain
+Parry, containing a short account of our proceedings.
+
+A gale of wind detained us two days at Cape Lyon, during which Ooligbuck
+supplied us with rein-deer meat, and Mr. Kendall obtained several sets
+of lunars. The latitude of our encampment, by the mean of three meridian
+observations, was 69 degrees 46-1/2 minutes N.; and the longitude, by
+lunar distances, 122 degrees 51 minutes W. The temperature of the air,
+during the gale, was about 45 degrees, that of the water 35 degrees.
+During our stay at Cape Lyon the tides were regular, but the rise and
+fall were short of twenty inches. At midnight on the 26th of July, the
+sun's lower limb was observed to touch the horizon for the first time
+since our arrival on the coast. Some old winter houses were seen in our
+walks, but we perceived no indications of the Esquimaux having recently
+visited this quarter.
+
+[Sidenote: Thursday, 27th.] The gale moderated on the 27th, and at eight
+in the evening it was sufficiently abated to permit us to proceed on our
+voyage. After rowing about two miles, the horns of a deer were seen over
+a rock at the summit of a cliff, on which M'Leay, the coxswain of the
+Union, landed and killed it. This poor animal had been previously
+wounded by an Esquimaux arrow, which had broken its shoulder bone. The
+jagged bone-head of the arrow was buried in the flesh, and its copper
+point bent up where it had struck the bone. The wound was open, and
+seemed to have been inflicted at least a fortnight before, but the
+animal was still fat. The extremity of Cape Lyon lies about three miles
+north-east of the encampment we had left, and in its neighbourhood the
+cliffs form bold headlands and several small rocky islands. Soon after
+rounding it we came to a projecting point, consisting of cliffs of
+limestone, in which there was a remarkable cave, opening to the sea by
+an archway, fifty feet high and twenty wide. The walls of the cavern
+were two hundred feet high, and a large circular aperture in the roof
+gave free admission to the daylight. Mr. Kendall named this point after
+Mr. Pearce, a particular friend of his.
+
+The night was fine but cold, the temperature having fallen to 35 degrees
+soon after we started, and at midnight the sun sunk for nearly half an
+hour beneath the horizon. [Sidenote: Friday, 28th.] We passed much heavy
+stream-ice, and towards the morning a quantity of new, or, as the seamen
+term it, "bay ice," having formed on the surface on the sea, the boats
+were so much retarded that we put ashore at four o'clock of the 28th, to
+wait until the increasing heat of the day dissolved it. The point on
+which we landed was named after Admiral Sir Richard Godwin Keats,
+G.C.B., Governor of Greenwich Hospital, and lies in latitude 69 degrees
+49 minutes N. and longitude 122 degrees W., being about eighteen miles
+distant from our encampment on Cape Lyon. The rocks at Point Keats
+consist of flesh-coloured sandstone. The Melville range of hills
+approaches there within eight or ten miles of the sea, and the
+intervening country is traversed by ridges of greenstone. On the coast
+from Cape Lyon to Point Keats there is a line of large drift timber,
+evidently thrown up by the waves, about twelve feet perpendicular
+height, above the ordinary spring tides: a sufficient proof of the sea
+being nearly clear of ice at the time it was thrown up; for the presence
+of any considerable quantity, even of stream-ice, prevents the waves
+from rising high. After two hours halt, the bay-ice having dissolved we
+re-embarked.
+
+From Cape Lyon to Point Keats the coast runs nearly east; after quitting
+the latter we found it trending a little to the southward, and from a
+point, which was named in honour of John Deas Thompson, Esq.,
+Commissioner of His Majesty's Navy, it has nearly a south-east
+direction. We landed a little to the eastward of Point Deas Thompson, to
+take a meridian observation for latitude, in a small bay, bounded by
+cliffs of limestone, one hundred and forty feet high, in which the waves
+had sculptured some beautiful Gothic arches. From the summit of the
+cliffs we saw a dark appearance in the eastern horizon, but it was too
+indistinct to permit us to decide whether it was land or merely a
+fog-bank. To the eastward of these cliffs the coast decreased in height,
+and, at the distance of five miles, we passed a small river, which was
+named after Francis Palgrave, Esq. Near this river, on the summit of a
+cliff, which was twenty-five feet high, we noticed several large logs of
+drift timber, with some hummocks of gravel, that appeared to have been
+thrown up by the waves. A portion of the Melville Range lies within
+three miles of the shore there; and one of its most remarkable hills was
+named after my esteemed friend, William Jackson Hooker, LL.D., Regius
+Professor of Botany in the University of Glasgow; and another after
+Colonel Colby, of the Royal Engineers, one of the Members of the Board
+of Longitude. About four o'clock in the afternoon we came to a stream
+flowing from a lake, and as it was an excellent boat harbour, we entered
+it and encamped. It was named Roscoe, after the eloquent historian of
+the Medici; and a conical hill of the Melville Range, visible from its
+mouth, received the name of the venerable geographer Major Rennel.
+
+We passed this day through heavier and more crowded streams of ice than
+any we had previously seen on the voyage. The navigation amongst it was
+tedious and difficult, and just before we put ashore much motion was
+imparted to it by a fresh south-west wind. The temperature during the
+day varied from 35 degrees to 50 degrees. The mouth of Roscoe River lies
+in latitude 69 degrees 41 minutes N., longitude 121 degrees 2 minutes
+W., and is forty-eight miles distant from Cape Lyon.
+
+[Sidenote: Saturday, 29th.] We embarked on the 29th, with a fair wind;
+but the ice lay so close, that we could not venture to set more than a
+reefed foresail, and were ultimately obliged to lower the sail entirely,
+and to find a passage through ice with oars and poles. The pieces of ice
+were of sufficient magnitude to deserve the name of floes, and were
+sometimes several fathoms thick. They were all moving before the breeze,
+which caused them to arrange themselves in the form of streams parallel
+to the coast, and, consequently, left lanes of open water in the
+direction of our course. These lanes, however, were continually changing
+their form; and, on several occasions, when we had been tempted by the
+favourable appearance of a piece of open water to venture from the
+coast, we had great difficulty in extricating ourselves from the ice
+which closed around us. The thickness of the ice led me to conclude that
+the sea had not been long open in this quarter; and I observed that the
+vegetation was later on this part of the coast than on the western side
+of Cape Parry.
+
+For the first twelve miles after leaving our encampment, the coast was
+low and sandy; the Melville Range still forming the back-ground, at the
+distance of four or five miles from the sea. The low beaches were
+terminated by a rocky headland, which obtained from us the name of De
+Witt Clinton, as a testimony of our sense of the urbanity and love of
+science which had prompted his Excellency the Governor of the state of
+New York[10] to show so much attention to the members of the Expedition,
+in their passage through his government. Some miles beyond Point De Witt
+Clinton we came to a steep cliff, where the ice was so closely packed
+that we could not force a passage. The cargoes were, therefore, carried
+along the foot of the cliff, and the boats launched for a few yards over
+a piece of ice. In this operation, the shelving base of an iceberg,
+which had formed under the cliff, and still adhered to it, but which was
+undermined by the waves, gave way whilst several of the men were
+standing upon it; but, fortunately, it did not overset, and they
+received no injury, as it was large enough to support them in the water.
+At nine o'clock, A.M., we were stopped by the closeness of the ice, and
+put ashore until the tide or wind should produce some change.
+
+The tides, since leaving the Mackenzie, had never been observed to have
+a greater rise than eighteen inches: but in the neighbourhood of our
+encampment, the sea-wrack and lines of drift timber indicated a washing
+of the sea to the perpendicular height of twenty feet. The country in
+this vicinity consists of a bluish limestone, interstratified with
+slate-clay: and naked and rugged ridges of trap rocks rise in various
+places above the general level. The soil is composed of clay and
+limestone gravel. The latitude of our encampment was ascertained, by
+meridian observation, to be 69 degrees 29 minutes N.; its longitude was
+120 degrees 20 minutes W.; and its distance from Roscoe River was
+twenty-five miles.
+
+[Sidenote: Sunday, 30th.] A breeze of wind from the land having opened a
+passage two miles wide, we embarked at two o'clock in the morning of the
+30th, and ran seven miles under sail; when, having overtaken the ice
+which had passed in the night, we found it too closely packed to allow
+us to proceed. In making for the beach, the Union narrowly escaped being
+crushed by two large floes of ice, which came together with violence
+just as she was about to run betwixt them. The Dolphin had sailed
+through the same passage not two minutes before. From an eminence near
+our encampment, we had the unpleasant view of a sea covered, as far as
+the eye could reach, with ice, excepting a few lanes of open water far
+to seaward. The tide fell here seven inches in the morning, and eleven
+in the evening, although the north-west wind increased in the afternoon
+to a pretty strong gale. The greater fall of the water with that wind,
+showing that it found an exit to the eastward, relieved us from an
+apprehension, which we had begun to entertain, that we were entering a
+deep bay, which might be encumbered by the drift-ice for many days. Much
+ice drove past us in the course of the day, before a west-north-west
+wind, its progress being only slightly checked for a time by the flood
+tide. Recent footsteps of a small party of Esquimaux were seen on the
+beach. Our encampment was situated in latitude 69 degrees 24 minutes N.,
+and longitude 120 degrees 03 minutes W.
+
+[Sidenote: Monday, 31st.] Embarking on the 31st, at two o'clock in the
+morning, we succeeded in getting about six miles through the ice: when
+we were again obliged to put ashore at the mouth of a small river, which
+was named after James Buchanan, Esq., his Majesty's Consul at New York,
+whose friendly attention to the officers of the Expedition well entitled
+him to their gratitude. After waiting for a while the tide loosened the
+ice a little, and we made some progress by debarking upon the floes, and
+pushing them apart with poles, until a sufficient opening was made. This
+operation was tedious, and not devoid of hazard to the boats, arising
+from the rotatory motion frequently given to the floes, by the pressure
+of the body of the ice. At noon, an observation for latitude was
+obtained on a projecting point, which was named after William Tinney,
+Esq., of Lincoln's Inn. At three in the afternoon, our progress being
+again arrested by the compactness of the ice, we hauled the boats upon
+the beach, and M'Leay having killed a fat buck rein-deer, the party had
+an excellent supper after the fatigues of the day. The length of the
+day's voyage was twenty-two miles; the latitude of our encampment, 69
+degrees 17-1/2 minutes N., and its longitude 119 degrees 27 minutes W.
+The coast line in this quarter is lower, few of the cliffs exceeding
+forty feet in height, and there is a greater proportion of flat beach
+than occurs nearer Cape Lyon. The ground is strewed with gravel,
+apparently arising from a limestone conglomerate which exists there in
+considerable quantity. The Melville Range is within four or five miles
+of the shore at this place, and does not rise more than five hundred
+feet above the sea. Many small rivulets flow from the rising grounds
+into the sea, through wide gravelly beds, indicating that at times they
+swell into large torrents.
+
+[Sidenote: August 1st.] A light westerly wind having opened a narrow
+channel between the ice and the shore, we embarked early in the morning
+of the 1st of August, and, three miles from our encampment, came to a
+river, which discharged itself by various shallow mouths, separated by
+sand banks. Its westernmost and easternmost mouths were five miles
+apart; and the latter, which was the largest, was one hundred and fifty
+yards wide. Although the outlet of this river is so much barred up, it
+discharges a considerable volume of water, and probably has its sources
+in the hills which are visible from the northern shores of Great Bear
+Lake. It was named after John Wilson Croker, Esq., Secretary to the
+Admiralty. Further on we had a view of a high island, lying ten or
+twelve miles from the shore, which received the appellation of Sir
+George Clerk's Island. M'Leay, who was now acknowledged to be our best
+hunter, was sent in pursuit of a deer, which we saw from the boats, and
+being successful, we landed to cook our breakfast, after having rowed
+twenty miles in the course of the morning. An observation for latitude
+was obtained a mile further at a point which was named after Waller
+Clifton, Esq., Secretary to the Victualling Board, The coast here makes
+a turn to the southward, and about six miles further on, where it
+resumes its easterly direction, a river about one hundred yards wide
+flows into the sea, betwixt two sand hills. To this river Mr. Kendall
+gave the name of Inman, out of respect to the Reverend and Learned
+Professor of the Royal Naval College at Portsmouth. A conical hill,
+about ten miles distant, in a south-west direction, was named after the
+late President of the Royal Society, the highly distinguished Sir
+Humphry Davy, Baronet. This was the last part we saw of the Melville
+Chain. We encamped at half past seven in the evening, under a high cliff
+of limestone, having advanced during the day thirty-seven miles. The
+point on which we encamped, received from Mr. Kendall, the name of Wise,
+after Captain M.F. Wise, of the Royal Navy, under whose command he
+sailed in His Majesty's ship Spartan. It is situated in latitude 69
+degrees 03-1/2 minutes N., longitude 118 degrees W.
+
+The coast from Cape Clifton to Point Wise consists of limestone in
+horizontal layers, forming cliffs, which are separated from each other
+by intervening shelving beaches, and it is skirted to the distance of a
+quarter of a mile by rocky shoals, having sufficient water on them for
+our boats, but not enough to admit the heavy ice. This was the cause of
+our making greater progress than we had been led to expect from the
+appearance of the ice in the morning. The cliffs at Point Wise are two
+hundred feet high, and from their summits, the ice appeared closely
+packed, as far as the eye could reach; no lanes of open water being
+visible. It was, however, composed of pieces, and not a continuous
+field, for we could distinctly perceive that several of the hummocks it
+inclosed were in motion. This was the first time during the voyage that
+we saw ice so closely packed, as to appear impenetrable to a ship when
+impelled by a good breeze, but it is necessary to state that, even from
+a considerable height, we could not tell with certainty the state of the
+ice six miles off; scattered pieces at that distance assuming the
+appearance of a close pack. The weather this day was fine, the
+temperature varying from 43 degrees to 50 degrees.
+
+[Sidenote: Wednesday, 2d.] Soon after setting out on the 2d, the
+temperature, which had been about 40 degrees throughout the night, fell
+to 34 degrees, and a fog came on. The wind also freshening and putting
+the ice in motion, the boats received some heavy blows; but we continued
+to advance, though slowly, and with much caution. About ten miles from
+our encampment, we passed the mouth of a small river, which was named
+after Captain Hoppner, of the Royal Navy, second in command to Captain
+Parry, on his third voyage of discovery. Towards noon the fog cleared
+away, and a meridian observation was obtained in latitude 68 degrees 56
+minutes N. Three miles further on we arrived at the mouth of a wide but
+shallow river, which flowed over a rocky bottom, betwixt two sand hills,
+and joined the sea by several mouths, separated by shoals. To this river
+Mr. Kendall gave the name of his friend, Lieutenant Harding, of the
+Royal Navy. Five miles beyond this river, on the extremity of a rocky
+cape, the Esquimaux had constructed several store-houses, of drift
+timber, which were filled with dried deer-meat and seal-blubber; along
+with which, cooking kettles, and lamps made of potstone, copper-headed
+spears, and various other articles, were carefully laid up. The ashes of
+the recently extinguished fires showed that the natives had quitted this
+place only a few days, and we felt much pleasure in figuring to
+ourselves the surprise and joy with which they would behold, on their
+return, the iron utensils that we deposited in the store-houses for
+their use. The cape received the name of "Young," after the learned
+Secretary to the Board of Longitude.
+
+From Cape Young we had a view of the sea thickly covered with ice, of a
+greater thickness than any we had previously encountered; and we
+perceived that there was a deeply indented bay lying in our route, and
+so filled with ice, that our only method of passing it appeared to be by
+keeping close to the shore, although under the disadvantage of trebling
+the distance. The coast in this quarter is similar to that which we had
+passed on the two or three preceding days, and is formed of high
+limestone cliffs, with intervening shingly beaches; but the country is
+still more barren, the quantity of limestone debris almost excluding any
+soil. Flat limestone rocks, having only a few inches of water upon them,
+skirt the beach, and terminate like a wall in four or five fathoms
+water. The ice was closely packed against these rocks, and for five
+miles after passing Cape Young, we made a way for the boats only by the
+constant use of the hatchet and ice-chisel, and gladly encamped at six
+o'clock in the evening, after a day's voyage of thirty-one miles. A herd
+of twenty rein-deer were grazing on the beach, but our hunters were too
+much fatigued to go in pursuit of them. The encampment was situated in
+latitude 68 degrees 53 minutes N., and longitude 116 degrees 50 minutes
+W. The temperature varied in the course of the day from 34 degrees to 50
+degrees. We observed that the ice continued to dissolve, but not so
+rapidly as in the month of July, when the sun did not sink below the
+horizon.
+
+[Sidenote: Thursday, 3rd.] We resumed our operations on the morning of
+the 3d at the usual hour, and with great labour made a passage for the
+boats. At eleven o'clock we landed to refresh ourselves on a projecting
+point at the western entrance of a deep bay, having previously passed a
+river which was about one hundred yards wide, but very shallow. After
+breakfasting, and obtaining a meridian observation in latitude 68
+degrees 53 minutes N., we pushed off again, and for some time made very
+slow progress. The shores of the bay consisted of beds of limestone,
+which, shelving into the water, were covered with masses of ice, forced
+up by the pressure of the pack outside. We were, therefore, compelled to
+work our way in deeper water, and there the boats, which led by turns,
+were occasionally exposed to the hazard of being overset by pieces of
+buoyant ice, which frequently broke off from the bases of the floes. In
+the language of the whalers, the ice is said to _calf_, when masses are
+detached in this manner, and they are sometimes of sufficient magnitude
+in the Greenland seas to endanger large vessels. The Dolphin was, at one
+time, nearly crushed to pieces by the closing of two floes; but,
+fortunately, she had reached a small recess, just as they came in
+contact, and they recoiled sufficiently to leave a passage for her exit,
+after she had sustained the trifling damage of a few cracks in the upper
+planks. The rays of the sun, and the waves acting on the surface of the
+floes, had, by thawing them irregularly, formed lakes of fresh water of
+some extent upon their surface. When these pieces of water were of
+sufficient depth, we availed ourselves of them to make some progress in
+our voyage, and in this way we frequently sailed over a considerable
+thickness of ice.
+
+At four o'clock P.M. we had advanced five miles, when to our joy we
+found a lane of open water, which permitted us to cross to the other
+side of the bay, where we encamped in latitude 68 degrees 51-1/2 minutes
+N., and longitude 116 degrees 03 minutes W., having sailed in the course
+of the day eighteen miles and a half. The bay was named Stapylton in
+honour of Major-General the Honourable G.A.C. Stapylton, Chairman of the
+Victualling Board; and on ascending a rising ground we perceived that it
+communicates with a long, narrow lake. A few miles from the coast the
+land rises from three to five hundred feet above the sea, and presents
+many precipitous limestone cliffs, and chains of small lakes. The
+country is very barren, the only plant we gathered being the yellow
+poppy, (_papaver nudicaule_.) By our reckoning we were now nearly in the
+longitude of the mouth of the Coppermine River, but about seventy miles
+to the northward of it, we, therefore, entertained an opinion that we
+were coasting a narrow peninsula, and that we should soon have the
+pleasure of perceiving the coast take a southerly direction. It was,
+consequently, with some hopes of beholding the sea on the opposite side
+of the peninsula that I walked seven or eight miles to the eastward in
+the night, but I was disappointed. In my way I had occasion to wade
+through a small lake, when two birds, about the size of the _northern
+diver_, and apparently of that genus, swam, with bold and angry
+gestures, to within a few yards of me, evidently very impatient of any
+intruder on their domain. Their necks were of a beautiful pale yellow
+colour, their bodies black with white specks. I considered them to
+belong to a species not yet described, and regretted that, having left
+my gun at the tent, it was not in my power to procure one of them for a
+specimen.
+
+[Sidenote: Friday, 4th.] Embarking at three A.M. on the 4th, we found
+little difficulty in reaching the eastern cape of Stapylton Bay, the
+wind having formed a narrow channel between the ice and the shore in the
+night. The temperature was low, and in the morning some new ice was
+formed which we easily broke. We noticed several eider ducks breaking a
+way through the thin ice for their young ones with their wings, and in
+this operation they made greater progress than we did in the boats.
+
+On reaching the cape[11] which was named after Vice-Admiral Sir William
+Johnstone Hope, G.C.B., we descried another point about four or five
+leagues distant, bearing east-north-east, the intervening bay being
+filled with closely packed ice. We were now within twelve miles of Cape
+Young, after a laborious navigation of four times that distance, and the
+prospect of another bay, equally unpromising, was very vexatious; but
+our apprehensions were increased by the view of a continuous line of
+land, extending from north-north-west until it was hid behind the nearer
+cape, which bore east-north-east, for we feared that it might prove to
+be a continuation of the main shore. Our crews, though concerned at the
+delay that so much ice was likely to occasion, set about overcoming the
+obstacle with a hearty good will, and after an intricate and troublesome
+navigation of ten or twelve miles amongst the ice, we found the bottom
+of the bay more open, and were enabled to cross over to the eastern side
+where we encamped. This bay received the name of the eminent astronomer
+James South, Esq.
+
+Mr. Kendall having gone to ascertain from the higher ground the trending
+of the coast, returned in about two hours with the cheering intelligence
+that the land to the northward was unconnected with the main shore, and
+that he had seen the latter inclining to the south-east, with a much
+more open sea than we had lately been accustomed to. As soon as supper
+was over, I also set out to enjoy the gratifying prospect, and from the
+extremity of the cape on which we were encamped, and which was named in
+honour of the Right Honourable Lord Bexley, I beheld the northern land
+running from north-north-west till it was lost in the horizon on a north
+73 degrees east bearing. It seemed to be pretty high but not
+mountainous; and although broken towards the east, the principal portion
+of it appeared to be continuous. This island, by far the largest one
+that was seen, either in the present voyage or on Captain Franklin's
+former Expedition, was named after that most distinguished philosopher
+Dr. Hyde Wollaston. The main shore had a direction nearly parallel to
+Wollaston Land, its most distant point in sight, which I estimated to be
+fifteen miles off, bearing S. 61 degrees E. On the strait, separating
+the two shores, I bestowed the names of our excellent little boats, the
+Dolphin and Union. It varies in width from twelve to twenty miles, and
+to the eastward seemed to contain merely detached streams of ice, not
+likely to obstruct the progress of a vessel; but to the westward lay the
+closely packed ice, filling South's Bay, and extending to seaward. The
+ice did not, however, entirely close the strait, for I could discern
+lanes of open water towards Wollaston Land. The packed ice which we had
+seen lining the coast between Point Clifton and Cape Bexley, may be
+perhaps considered as an illustration of the remark made by Captain
+Parry, that the western sides of seas and inlets in those latitudes are
+more encumbered with ice than the opposite sides; and it is very
+probable that a ship might have found a passage by keeping along
+Wollaston Land, an opinion which the appearance of the ice as seen from
+Cape Bexley, tended to confirm. The latitude of our encampment was 68
+degrees 58 minutes N., and its longitude 115 degrees 47 minutes W.; it
+was within ten miles of our encampment of the preceding night, although
+we had travelled twenty-five miles in the course of the day.
+
+[Sidenote: Saturday, 5th.] The party embarked on the 5th, at the usual
+hour in the morning, with their spirits pleasantly excited by the
+intelligence of the favourable trending of the coast, communicated by
+Mr. Kendall, and after doubling Cape Bexley, proceeded under sail,
+before a west-north-west wind, with a rapidity to which they had lately
+been unaccustomed. The point of land which Cape Bexley terminates,
+consists entirely of horizontal beds of limestone, and is nowhere more
+than three hundred feet above the sea. On the west side, the water is
+two or three fathoms deep, close to the shore, and the land attains its
+greatest elevation by a steep rise from the beach. On the east side
+there are some precipitous cliffs, but the coast in general is skirted
+by shelving rocks. No soil was seen on the Cape, nor any appearance of
+vegetation, the ground being every where covered, to the depth of a
+foot, by fragments of limestone, which are detached by the frost from
+the solid strata lying beneath. We were much puzzled at first with the
+appearance of several parallel trenches, a foot deep, running for a
+great distance amongst the fragments, but on examination they were
+ascertained to originate in fissures of the subjacent strata. Much
+quartz being intermixed with the limestone of Cape Bexley, the fragments
+which covered the ground had, by the action of the weather, lost most of
+the softer calcareous matter, and were converted into a kind of rasp,
+very annoying to pedestrians, being capable of destroying a pair of
+stout English shoes in a walk of a few hours.
+
+At eleven o'clock we came to a pack of ice abutting against the shore,
+but while we halted to cook breakfast, the wind opened a way for us. In
+the course of the morning we passed many heavy streams of ice, separated
+by lanes of open water, which would have afforded an easy passage for a
+ship. Having obtained a meridian observation for latitude, we
+re-embarked, and pulled for five miles through an open channel, to Point
+Cockburn, on the opposite side of a bay, which appeared to be four or
+five miles deep, and to be quite filled with drift-ice. Many deer were
+seen grazing near this point, but we did not stop to send a hunter in
+pursuit of them. We afterwards crossed several other indentations of the
+coast, skirted by reefs of limestone and low islets, and encamped on
+Chantry Island, lying close to the main shore, in latitude 68 degrees 45
+minutes N., longitude 114 degrees 23 minutes W., having sailed
+thirty-nine miles in the course of the day. Two islands, lying opposite
+to our encampment, received the appellations of Manners Sutton and Sir
+Robert Liston's Islands. The degree of motion in the ice, which was
+drifting between these islands and the shore, indicated a stronger
+current of both flood and ebb than we had hitherto seen.
+
+[Sidenote: Sunday, 6th.] On the 6th, we commenced the day's voyage at
+three in the morning, but were compelled to put ashore soon afterwards
+by a stream of ice barring our way. At six o'clock, however, the flowing
+tide opened it sufficiently to enable us to push the boats along with
+poles, our progress being occasionally facilitated by the rocky reefs,
+which kept the heavier masses from pressing down upon us. Much of the
+ice lay aground, in nine fathoms, but none of it rose more than five or
+six feet above the surface of the water. We estimated the velocity of
+the flood tide, off some of the rocky points, at three miles an hour,
+and at such places we had much trouble in endeavouring to keep the boats
+clear of the drifting ice. The circular motion which the pieces
+occasionally acquired was particularly difficult to guard against, and
+had we not depended on the tongues of ice, which, lying deep under
+water, prevented the upper parts of the floes to which they belonged
+from coming in contact, we should scarcely have ventured amongst them.
+We did not, however, entirely escape, for the Dolphin was caught between
+a floe and a piece that lay aground, and fairly raised out of the water
+by the pressure, which broke one of her timbers and several of her
+planks. We put ashore on a small island to repair the damage, and during
+our stay Mr. Kendall had a meridian observation in latitude 68 degrees
+36-1/2 minutes N. Another island, lying about two miles from the main
+land, was distinguished by the name of Aylmer Bourke Lambert, Esq.,
+Vice-President of the Linnean Society. The sea water there was
+beautifully clear.
+
+At half-past one, the Dolphin being again rendered sea-worthy, we
+prosecuted our voyage until five P.M., when the flood-tide set with such
+velocity round a rocky point, and brought so much ice with it, that we
+considered it prudent to put ashore. The violent eddies in the currents
+there, and the sudden approach and collision of the large masses of ice,
+reminded us forcibly of the poet's description of Scylla and Charybdis.
+The length of the day's voyage was twenty-one miles, and our encampment
+was situated in latitude 68 degrees 32 minutes N., longitude 113 degrees
+53 minutes W. The temperature at nine P.M. was 60 degrees.
+
+Mr. Kendall and I took a walk of some miles along the shore, and were
+happy to observe the coast inclining to the southward, although no doubt
+now existed as to our accomplishing the voyage sufficiently early to
+allow us to cross the barren grounds, to the eastward of Great Bear
+Lake, before the cold weather set in. The flowering season for most of
+the plants on the coast was already past, but our route for the
+remainder of the distance to Bear Lake, inclining much to the southward,
+would naturally have the effect of prolonging to us the duration of the
+summer. A conspicuous hill, discovered in our walk, received the name of
+Mount Barrow, in honour of John Barrow, Esq., Secretary to the
+Admiralty; and two islands in the offing were named after Commanders
+Bayfield and Douglas, of the Royal Navy, to both of whom the officers of
+the Expedition were indebted for much assistance and personal kindness,
+in their progress through Canada. The interior of the country was flat,
+but the limestone formed cliffs on the shore two hundred feet high. From
+the form of the islands, I was led to believe that they consisted of
+trap rocks. Wollaston Land, as seen from this encampment, appeared to
+recede gradually from the main, and it sunk under the horizon, on a
+north-east bearing. By estimation, the most easterly part of it which we
+saw, is in latitude 68 degrees 45 minutes N., and longitude 113 degrees
+53 minutes W. The navigation of the Dolphin and Union Straits would be
+dangerous to ships, from the many sunken rocks which we observed near
+the southern shore.
+
+[Sidenote: Monday, 7th.] Embarking at two A.M. on the 7th, we crossed a
+deeply indented bay, which was named after Lieutenant-Colonel Pasley, of
+the Royal Engineers, to whose invention we owe the portable boat, named
+the Walnut-shell, which we carried out with us. On the east side of
+Pasley Cove there are some bold limestone cliffs, that form the
+extremity of a promontory, to which we gave the name of Cape
+Krusenstern, in honour of the distinguished Russian hydrographer. It
+lies in latitude 68 degrees 23 minutes N., longitude 113 degrees 45
+minutes W., and is the most eastern part of the main land which we
+coasted. From a cliff, two hundred feet high, two miles to the southward
+of Cape Krusenstern, we had a distinct view of the high land about
+Inman's Harbour, on the western side of Cape Barrow, which was the most
+easterly land seen on this voyage, and lies in longitude 111 degrees 20
+minutes W. The space between Capes Barrow and Krusenstern is crowded
+with islands.
+
+By entering George the Fourth's Coronation Gulf at Cape Krusenstern, we
+connected the discoveries of this voyage with those made by Captain
+Franklin on his former expedition, and had the honour of completing a
+portion of the north-west passage, for which the reward of five thousand
+pounds was established by his Majesty's Order in Council, but as it was
+not contemplated, in framing the Order, that the discovery should be
+made from west to east, and in vessels so small as the Dolphin and
+Union, we could not lay claim to the pecuniary reward.
+
+While the party were at breakfast I visited Mount Barrow, which is a
+steep hill about three hundred feet high, surrounded by a moat fifty or
+sixty feet wide and twenty deep, and having a flat summit bounded by
+precipices of limestone. Three banks, like causeways, afforded the means
+of crossing the moat, and the hill altogether formed a remarkably
+complete natural fortification. The Esquimaux had marked most of the
+prominent points in this quarter, by erecting piles of stones similar to
+the cairns built for land-marks by the shepherds in Scotland. These
+erections were occasionally noticed, after doubling Cape Parry, but they
+were more numerous here. The ice which we saw this day was in form of
+loose streams, and offered no material impediment. Several wreaths of
+snow lay at the base of the cliffs that had a northern exposure, being
+the remains of that which had accumulated in the winter.
+
+The latitude 68 degrees 13 minutes N. was observed at noon on a low
+point which projected from some higher lands. From this point, which was
+named after Edward H. Locker, Esq., Secretary to the Royal Hospital at
+Greenwich, we had a view of Cape Hearne, the form of which I thought I
+recognised from my recollections of it on the former voyage. We reached
+Cape Hearne in the evening, having in the afternoon skirted a low and
+indented coast; a bay immediately to the north of it was named after
+Captain Basil Hall, of the Royal Navy. Cape Hearne itself is a low
+point, not visible from the mouth of the Coppermine; but the high land
+behind it, when seen from a distance, appears like a steep promontory,
+and is that designated as Cape Hearne in Captain Franklin's chart of his
+former voyage. The latitude of this cape is 68 degrees 11 minutes N.,
+and its longitude 114 degrees 54 minutes W. The length of the day's
+voyage was forty miles. Many deer were seen here, and Ooligbuck killed a
+very fine one in the evening. After encamping I went a few miles into
+the interior, and found that the country was composed of limestone,
+which rose by a succession of terraces to the height of about three
+hundred feet above the sea. The heat of the day was considerable, the
+thermometer, when exposed to the rays of the sun, indicating 86 degrees,
+without the bulb being blackened, or any other means used to retain the
+heat.
+
+[Sidenote: Tuesday, 8th.] Embarking early on the eighth, and passing
+through several loose streams of ice, some pieces of which were
+twenty-four feet thick, we landed at nine o'clock on a bold cape to
+prepare breakfast. It is formed of columnar greenstone, reposing on
+slaty limestone, and rising precipitously from the sea to the height of
+three hundred and fifty feet. I named this well marked point Cape
+Kendall, after my highly esteemed friend and companion, and had the
+pleasure of pointing out to him, from its summit, the gap in the hills
+at Bloody Fall, through which the Coppermine River flows. Mr. Kendall
+having taken the necessary bearings and sketches for the completion of
+his chart, we descended the hill to announce to the men, that a short
+traverse would bring us to the mouth of the Coppermine River. As we were
+aware of the disappointment which often springs from the premature
+excitement of hope, we had not previously acquainted them with our near
+approach to the termination of our voyage; fearing that an unfavourable
+trending of coast, or an intervening body of ice, might protract it
+some days longer than we expected. The gratifying intelligence that we
+now conveyed to them, was, therefore, totally unexpected, and the
+pleasure they experienced found vent in heartfelt expressions of
+gratitude to the Divine Being, for his protection on the voyage. At noon
+the latitude of Cape Kendall was ascertained to be 67 degrees 58 minutes
+N., and its longitude by reckoning was 115 degrees 18 minutes W.
+
+Re-embarking, we steered for the mouth of the Coppermine River with the
+sails set to a fine breeze, plying the oars at the same time, and on
+rounding Cape Kendall, we opened a magnificent inlet, or bay, rendered
+very picturesque by the manner in which its lofty cliffs came
+successively in sight as we crossed its mouth. We distinguished it by
+the name of our mutual friend and companion Captain Back. One of
+Couper's Islands, on which we landed, consists of greenstone, rising
+from the water like steps of a stair; and from its summit we perceived
+that a low piece of land, which, on the former voyage, had been mistaken
+for an island, was, in fact, the extremity of Point Mackenzie, and that
+Richardson River was merely a ravine, now dry.[12] Having reached the
+mouth of the Coppermine River, we encamped within a hundred yards of the
+position of the tents on Captain Franklin's former Expedition. Some
+half-burnt wood, the remains of the fires then made, were still lying on
+the spot; and I also recognised the Esquimaux stage, which we visited on
+that occasion, but there were no skins nor utensils on it now.
+
+The completion of our sea voyage so early in the season was a subject of
+mutual congratulation to us all; and to Mr. Kendall and myself it was
+highly gratifying to behold our men still fresh and vigorous, and ready
+to commence the laborious march across the barren grounds, with the same
+spirit that they had shown in overcoming the obstacles which presented
+themselves to their progress by sea. We all felt that the comfort and
+ease with which the voyage had been performed, were greatly owing to the
+judicious and plentiful provision of stores and food which Captain
+Franklin had made for us; and gratitude for his care mingling with the
+pleasure excited by our success, and directing our thoughts more
+strongly to his party, the most ardent wishes were expressed that they
+might prove equally fortunate. The correctness of Mr. Kendall's
+reckoning was another source of pleasure. Having been deprived of the
+aid of chronometers, by the breaking of the two intended for the eastern
+detachment of the Expedition, during the intense winter cold, our only
+resource for correcting the dead reckoning was lunar observations, made
+as frequently as opportunities offered; yet when we approached the
+Coppermine River, Mr. Kendall's reckoning differed from the position of
+that place, ascertained on Captain Franklin's former Expedition, only
+twenty seconds of time, or about two miles and a half of distance, which
+is a very trifling difference when the length of the voyage and the
+other circumstances are taken into consideration. The distance between
+Point Separation and the mouth of the Coppermine River, by the route we
+pursued, is nine hundred and two geographical miles.
+
+In our progress along the coast no opportunity was omitted of noting the
+times of high-water, and a tide-table drawn up by Mr. Kendall, is given
+in pages 236, 237. We nowhere observed the rise of the tide to exceed
+twenty-two inches, and in some places it was not more than eight or
+nine; but the velocity of the flood and ebb was greater than could have
+been expected from so small a rise. Off the Alluvial Islands, lying
+between the outlets of the Mackenzie River and Esquimaux Lake, it was in
+the strength of the flood about a mile an hour; at Cape Bathurst it
+exceeded a mile and a half; and in the Dolphin and Union Straits it was
+fully three miles. The stream of the flood set every where from the
+eastward.
+
+The variation of the magnetic needle, which was forty-six degrees
+easterly at Point Separation, attained to 50 degrees at Refuge Cove, 53
+degrees at Point Maitland, and 56 degrees at Cape Parry; after which it
+gradually decreased as we went to the south-east; and at the mouth of
+the Coppermine, it was 48 degrees.
+
+We saw no ice that would have much impeded a ship, except between Sir
+George Clerk's Island and Cape Bexley, where it was heavy and closely
+packed. The appearance, however, of lanes of open water towards
+Wollaston Land, opposite to Cape Bexley, induced us to think that there
+might be a good passage for a ship on the outside of the ice, which
+lined the south shore, and which seems to have been packed into the
+indentations of the coast by the strong north-west winds that had
+prevailed for some days. A ship would find shelter amongst the islands
+of George the Fourth's Coronation Gulf, in Back's Inlet, in Darnley Bay,
+and amongst Booth's Islands, lying off Cape Parry; but the bottom, at
+the latter place, is rocky, and there are many sunken rocks along the
+whole of that coast. To the westward of Cape Parry, we saw no ship
+harbours, and the many sand-banks skirting the outlets of Esquimaux
+Lake would render it dangerous for a ship to approach the shore in that
+quarter. There is such an abundance of drift-timber on almost every part
+of the coast, that a sufficient supply of fuel for a ship might easily
+be collected, and wherever we landed on the main shore we found streams
+or small lakes of fresh water. Should the course of events ever
+introduce a steam-vessel into those seas, it may be important to know
+that in coasting the shores between Cape Bathurst and the Mackenzie,
+fire-wood sufficient for her daily consumption may be gathered, and that
+near the Babbage River, to the westward of the Mackenzie, a tertiary
+pitch-coal exists of excellent quality, which Captain Franklin describes
+as forming extensive beds.
+
+The height to which the drift-timber is thrown up on the shores at the
+western entrance of the Dolphin and Union Straits is, I think, an
+indication of an occasional great rise in the sea, which, as the tides
+are in comparison so insignificant, I can ascribe only to the north-west
+winds driving the waters of an open sea towards the funnel-shaped
+entrance of the straits. If this view is correct, Wollaston Land
+probably extends far to the north, and closely adjoins to Banks' Land,
+or is connected with it. Captain Parry found the strait between Melville
+Island and Banks' Land obstructed by ice, and this will naturally be
+generally the case, both there and in the Dolphin and Union Straits, if
+they form the principal openings through a range of extensive islands,
+which run north and south, and bound a large tract of sea, comparatively
+free from land. The heat of the summer in that quarter seems to be
+always or almost always sufficient to admit of the ice breaking up, but
+not powerful enough to dissolve it entirely. Hence the loose ice driven
+about by the winds, and carried to the lee-side of the wider expanses of
+sea, is firmly packed in the narrow straits and winding passages amongst
+the islands, from whence it can be dislodged only by a concurrence of
+very favourable circumstances, and where the waste by the solar rays is
+replaced by every breeze blowing from the open sea. The north-west winds
+being the strongest and most prevalent in the latter part of the summer,
+it is at the western end of a strait that the ice is most frequently and
+closely packed. Captain Parry remarks that "there was something peculiar
+about the south-west extremity of Melville Island, which made the icy
+sea there extremely unfavourable to navigation, and which seemed to bid
+defiance to all efforts to proceed farther to the westward in that
+parallel of latitude." The Dolphin and Union Straits hold out greater
+prospects of success for a similar attempt, not only from their more
+southern position, but from the strong current of flood and ebb which
+flows through them and keeps the ice in motion.
+
+We noticed on the coast about one hundred and seventy _phænogamous_, or
+flowering plants, being one-fifth of the number of species which exist
+fifteen degrees of latitude farther to the southward. The grasses,
+bents, and rushes, constitute only one-fifth of the number of species on
+the coast, but the two former tribes actually cover more ground than all
+the rest of the vegetation. The cruciferous, or cress-like tribes afford
+one-seventh of the species, and the compound flowers are nearly as
+numerous. The _shrubby plants_ that reach the sea-coast are the common
+juniper, two species of willow, the dwarf Birch (_betula glandulosa_),
+the common alder, the hippophae, a gooseberry, the red bearberry
+(_arbutus uva ursi_), the Labrador tea plant, (_ledum palustre_,) the
+Lapland rose (_rhododendron lapponicum_,) the bog whortleberry
+(_vaccinium uliginosum_,) and the crow-berry (_empetrum nigrum_.) The
+kidney-leaved oxyria grows in great luxuriance there, and occasionally
+furnished us with an agreeable addition to our meals, as it resembles
+the garden sorrel in flavour, but is more juicy and tender. It is eaten
+by the natives, and must, as well as many of the cress-like plants,
+prove an excellent corrective of the gross, oily, rancid, and frequently
+putrid meat, on which they subsist. The small bulbs of the Alpine
+bistort (_polygonum viviparum_,) and the long, succulent, and sweet
+roots of many of the _astragaleæ_, which grow on the sandy shores, are
+eatable; but we did not learn that the Esquimaux were acquainted with
+their use. A few clumps of white spruce-fir, with some straggling black
+spruces and canoe birches, grow at the distance of twenty or thirty
+miles from the sea, in sheltered situations, on the banks of rivers.
+
+_ABSTRACT of the Meteorological Register, kept by the Eastern
+Detachment, in their Voyage between the Mouths of the Mackenzie and
+Coppermine Rivers._
+
+     Temperature in the Shade.
+             Highest.      Direction of
+  Date.  Lowest.    Mean.  the Winds.    Weather and Remarks.
+  ----------------------------------------------------------------------
+  July
+     9   32    38    35    East; NEbE.   Fresh breezes. Clear sky with
+                                         fog over the ice.
+    10   45    57    51    ESE.          Strong breezes, clear weather.
+    11   42    51    43    East.         Strong breezes, clear sky, and
+                                         bright sun.
+    12   45    50    47    Do.           Ditto,          ditto.
+    13   46    57    52    East; SE.     Moderate breezes. Clear sky;
+                                         rain in the night.
+    14   42    42    42    West.         Heavy gales. Thick fog.
+    15   52    57    55    Nearly calm.  Very fine weather.
+    16   38    55    47    South.        Moderate breezes. Cloudy A.M.,
+                                         clear P.M.
+    17   50    62    54    West; North.  Fog A.M. When wind veered to
+                                         north cleared up. Temperature
+                                         of sea 55 degrees.
+    18   45    56    50    South; East.  Light airs A.M.; fresh breezes
+                                         P.M.; calm in the night.
+    19   44    54    49    East; West.   Fresh breezes and cloudy A.M.
+                                         Four P.M. West wind and foggy
+                                         weather.
+    20   46    50    48    NW., WNW.     Foggy; fresh breezes A.M.
+                                         Increased to a strong gale P.M.
+    21   42    48    46    WNW.; NW.     Fresh breezes and foggy A.M.
+                                         Fine and clear P.M.
+    22   45    47    46    South.        Fresh breezes A.M. Fine
+                                         weather P.M.
+    23   46    58    52    SW.           Moderate and cloudy. Many
+                                         Musquitoes.
+
+_Meteorological Register, &c.--Concluded._
+
+     Temperature in the Shade.
+             Highest.      Direction of
+  Date.  Lowest.    Mean.  the Winds.    Weather and Remarks.
+  ----------------------------------------------------------------------
+  July
+    24   50    76    66    West.         Moderate breezes. Foggy A.M.
+                                         Occasionally hazy P.M. Myriads
+                                         of Musquitoes.
+    25   45    66    55    South; NE.    Fine A.M. Strong gales and
+                                         partial fogs P.M.
+    26   35    47    41    NE.           Strong gales and clear.
+                                         Temperature of sea 35 deg.
+    27   35    45    40    ENE.          Moderate.
+    28   35    50    42    Calm; North.  Fine clear weather.
+    29   37    41    38    WNW.          Moderate breezes; foggy.
+    30   36    40    38    WNW.          Fog hanging over the ice;
+                                         clear inland; moderate breezes.
+    31   38    45    41    NW.           Moderate breezes; occasionally
+                                         hazy, fog over the ice.
+  Aug.
+     1   43    50    48    West.         Moderate breezes; hazy to seaward.
+     2   34    50    41    West; variable. Hazy and occasionally foggy.
+     3   38    43    40    NE.; East.    Light breezes and clear.
+     4   38    55    46    NE.; ESE.     Fine clear weather.
+     5   39    56    47    EbS.; WSW.    Do.               Moderate P.M.
+     6   42    56    47    South; variable. Do.
+     7   36    68    52    SSE.          Fine and very clear.
+                                         Temperature in the sun 86 deg.
+     8   44    60    52    North.        Do.
+         -----------------
+         41.45 51.92 46.48
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[9] The appearance of whales on the north coast, nearly midway between
+the nearest passages into Behring's and Barrow's Straits, and upwards of
+a thousand miles distant from either, affords subject for interesting
+speculation. It is known that they must come frequently to the surface
+to breathe, and the following questions naturally arise:--Are there at
+all seasons large spaces of open water in the Arctic Seas? or do these
+animals travel from the Atlantic or Pacific Oceans immediately on the
+breaking up of the ice off Cape Bathurst, and so early in the season as
+the middle of July; while the sea, to the eastward and westward, is
+still covered with ice? if the latter is the fact, it is a very curious
+part of the natural history of these animals. The Esquimaux informed us,
+that they are rarely seen when the ice lies close, and in accordance
+with this remark Captain Franklin saw few to the westward, and we also
+lost them as we approached the Coppermine River, and met with more ice.
+
+[10] Since the above passage was written, the world has had to mourn the
+loss of this distinguished statesman and philosopher.
+
+[11] Its latitude was ascertained by meridional observations to be 68
+degrees 58 minutes N.
+
+[12] Captain Franklin has since transferred the name of Richardson to
+the Bay between Point Mackenzie and the mouth of the Coppermine River.
+
+
+
+
+PROCEEDINGS OF THE EASTERN DETACHMENT CONCLUDED.
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+Ascend the Coppermine River--Abandon the Boats and Stores--Commence the
+Land Journey--Cross the Copper Mountains and Height of Land--Meet
+Indians who bring Provisions--Arrive at Great Bear Lake--Detained by
+want of a Boat--Send out Hunters--Arrival of Beaulieu--Collect the
+Party, and proceed to Fort Franklin--Conclusion.
+
+
+[Sidenote: Wednesday, 9th.] At four o'clock in the morning of the 9th of
+August, we left our encampment at the mouth of the Coppermine River, and
+proceeded in the boats to Bloody Fall, a distance of about eleven miles.
+The river was very low, and, in many places, there was scarcely water
+enough for our boats, which did not draw more than fourteen inches. On
+the preceding evening an Esquimaux dog had come to our encampment: his
+meagre aspect showed that he had fared badly, and hunger had rendered
+him so tame that he readily ate from our hands. After following us a
+considerable way up the river he left us; and we found, on our arrival
+at Bloody Fall, that a party of Esquimaux had just quitted that place;
+probably having discovered us from a distance.
+
+The Coppermine River, for forty miles above Bloody Fall, flows over an
+uneven stony bed, betwixt precipitous rocky walls, and is full of
+rapids. It is totally impracticable to ascend it in boats having a
+greater draught of water than a few inches; and even a small canoe must
+be frequently carried over land for considerable distances, to avoid the
+numerous obstacles which occur. It was necessary, therefore, that we
+should leave at this place the Dolphin and Union, and every thing that
+was not absolutely necessary for our journey. We determined, however, on
+taking with us Colonel Pasley's canvass boat, the Walnut-shell, in the
+hope of its occasionally relieving the men of their burdens for a short
+time, should any part of the river admit of its use. The afternoon
+was employed in arranging the loads for crossing the barren grounds. Twenty
+pounds of pemmican were allotted to each man, and the packages of
+maccaroni, arrow-root, portable-soup, chocolate, sugar, and tea, were
+equally distributed; together with the nautical almanack, astronomical
+tables, charts, two fishing nets, the collection of plants, specimens of
+rocks, and the portable boat, kettles, and hatchets; all of which, with
+the blankets, spare shoes, guns, and ammunition, made a load of about
+seventy-two pounds a man. Mr. Kendall undertook to carry the sextant and
+azimuth-compass; and I took the artificial horizon and a package of
+paper for drying plants, besides which we each carried a blanket, gun,
+and ammunition. As I feared that some of the party would over-rate their
+strength, and, through a desire of saving some favourite article, load
+themselves too heavily at the outset, which could not fail to prove very
+injurious to the regularity and speed of our march, I informed them,
+that, as soon as we were at a convenient distance from our present
+encampment, I should halt and examine all their bundles.
+
+The boats were drawn up on shore, out of the reach of any flood, and the
+remainder of the articles, that we had brought to give the Esquimaux,
+were put into boxes and placed in the tents, that they might be readily
+found by the first party of that nation that passed this way. They
+consisted of fish-hooks, lines, hatchets, knives, files, fire-steels,
+kettles, combs, awls, needles, thread, blue and red cloth, gartering,
+and beads, sufficient to serve a considerable number of Esquimaux for
+several years. The tents were securely pitched, and the Union Jack
+hoisted, partly for the purpose of attracting the attention of the
+natives, and partly to show them the mode of using the tents, which may
+prove to be very useful in their summer journeys. That no accident might
+occur from the natives finding any of our powder, all that we did not
+require to take with us was thrown into the river.
+
+[Sidenote: Thursday, 10th.] At six o'clock on the morning of the 10th,
+after the men had been down to the beach to take a last look of our
+little boats, we began our march to Bear Lake, intending to keep on the
+banks of the Coppermine as far as its bend at the Copper Mountains, and
+to strike from thence straight across the hills for the mouth of Dease's
+River, which falls into the north-east arm of Bear Lake. We set off at a
+pretty quick pace, and the first hill, after leaving our encampment,
+being steep, tried the wind of most of the party, so that the few who
+had loaded themselves with superfluous articles, were glad to throw
+them away during a short halt on its summit, and when I examined their
+packages, at the next resting-place, I found little to reject. A path
+beaten by the rein-deer and the Esquimaux conducted us down the southern
+face of this range of hill to the plain beneath, when we halted to
+prepare breakfast, and to make some further arrangements, as several of
+the party, being unaccustomed to carry loads, advanced slowly. After
+breakfast the portable boat was put together, and the baggage being
+placed in it, we endeavoured to tow it up the river, but found this to
+be impracticable, owing to the badness of the towing-path, the numerous
+high cliffs which bound the stream, and the form of the boat, which
+permitted the water in strong rapids to flow over its bows. This boat
+was admirably adapted for the purpose for which it was constructed by
+Colonel Pasley, that of crossing a river or lake, as we had ascertained
+by previous trials; but we knew that no river, except such as we could
+ford, could occur on our route to Bear Lake; and I, therefore,
+determined on leaving it, together with half a bag of arrow-root, and
+five muskets, by which the loads were reduced about fifteen pounds a
+man. The march was then resumed with alacrity, and, notwithstanding that
+the day was hot and sultry, we proceeded with greater speed and
+satisfaction. Mr. Kendall walked at the head of the line at a steady
+pace, halting for five minutes every half hour to rest the party, and
+prevent straggling. At five we encamped, having marched about six miles
+in a direct line. The route throughout the journey was regulated, from
+time to time, by our taking the bearing of a distant hill, or other
+conspicuous object, by the compass, and walking directly for it; and the
+distance was estimated by noting the time and guessing the rate of our
+march. Of this, which was in general a little more than two miles an
+hour, previous practice had enabled us to judge so correctly, that the
+estimate seldom erred more than a mile a day. The error, whatever it
+was, was always corrected at noon, when the latitude was observed, and
+the course and distance were then calculated anew.
+
+During the day several small herds of rein-deer were seen, but I would
+not permit any one to leave the line of march to go in pursuit of them;
+after encamping, however, M'Leay killed a fine buck. A solitary stunted
+spruce-fir grew near our encampment, and the most northerly clump on the
+river was seen about two miles to the southward. When supper was over
+and a watch set, we stretched ourselves on the ground, and soon sunk
+into sound sleep. The temperature at sunset was 62 degrees.
+
+[Sidenote: Friday, 11th.] Setting out on the 11th, at six in the
+morning, we halted to breakfast at nine, and Mr. Kendall took an
+observation at noon, in latitude 67 degrees 33 minutes N. We encamped at
+half past five P.M. amongst some small pines. The day was fine, and a
+fresh easterly wind rendered it agreeable for walking; but the men were
+much annoyed by their burdens, and appeared jaded when we halted for the
+night. Their loads could not have exceeded fifty-two pounds each, but
+the frequent ascent and descent in crossing the small hills that lay in
+our way, and the occasional sponginess of the ground, and insecurity of
+footing, rendered marching much more laborious than it would have been
+on a hard English highway. The direct distance travelled this day was
+about twelve miles. We saw many gray Arctic marmots (_Arctomys Parryi_,)
+sporting near their burrows, and a little terrier dog, which had been
+our fellow voyager from England, showed much dexterity in cutting off
+their retreat, and succeeded in catching several of them. The dog's long
+confinement in the boat rendered the exercise he now took very
+fatiguing, and when we halted for the night he was the most tired of the
+party. Many young rein-deer were also seen, and after we encamped
+Ooligbuck killed one. The temperature in the evening was 50 degrees, but
+the night was cold.
+
+[Sidenote: Saturday, 12th.] Our march on the 12th was rendered pleasant
+by a cool northerly breeze, and the men being now familiar with their
+loads, which had also suffered some diminution by the preceding
+evening's repast, we made a more rapid progress. The length of the march
+was seventeen miles, being, exclusive of the half hourly halts and the
+time occupied by breakfast, at the rate of two miles and a half an hour.
+In the course of the day we crossed several ridges of the Copper
+Mountains to avoid a bend of the river. The Whisky-John (_corvus
+Canadensis_) visited our encampment in the evening for the first time
+since we left the Mackenzie.
+
+[Sidenote: Sunday, 13th.] On the 13th, commencing the day's march at
+five A.M., we walked along the banks of the river until nine, when we
+halted to prepare breakfast, at the place where Captain Franklin
+encamped on the 11th of July 1821. After breakfast we forded the small
+stream, on the banks of which several pieces of native copper and some
+copper ore were found on the former Expedition. A quantity of ice formed
+by snow, consolidated by the oozing of the stream, still remained in the
+bed of this rivulet.
+
+At noon the latitude was observed in 67 degrees 13 minutes N., and as we
+were now on the spot where the Coppermine makes the nearest approach to
+the north-east arm of Bear Lake, we decided on striking directly from
+this place to the mouth of Dease's River, and the course and distance
+were accordingly calculated. Our route lay over rocks of old red
+sandstone, clay-slate, and greenstone disposed in ridges, which had a
+direction from E.S.E. to W.N.W. The sides of many of the ridges were
+precipitous, and their uneven and stony summits were two hundred or two
+hundred and fifty feet high. The valleys were generally swampy and
+abounded in small lakes. A few scattered and thin clumps of pines
+existed in the more sheltered spots, but the country was, in general,
+naked. Several burrows of wolves were seen in the mountains. We crossed
+two small streams in the course of the day, flowing towards the
+Coppermine, and encamped at four P.M. on the banks of a small lake.
+Sand-flies, the first we had seen this season, were numerous and
+troublesome in the evening, the temperature then being 53 degrees.
+
+[Sidenote: Monday, 14th.] Setting out at five A.M. on the 14th, we
+halted to breakfast at nine, after a pretty brisk walk through a country
+entirely destitute of wood. Some partridges, which were so tame as to be
+easily killed with stones, furnished us with an agreeable variety of
+diet. A meridional observation was obtained in latitude 67 degrees 10
+minutes N. In endeavouring to get round the south end of a small chain
+of lakes, which lay in our route, we were stopped by a narrow stream
+about six feet deep, flowing from them towards the Coppermine River;
+but, on sounding the lake a little way from the head of the stream, we
+found that it was fordable without difficulty. We marched to a late hour
+in search of fuel to cook some deer's meat, which M'Leay had procured in
+the course of the day, and were fortunate in at length finding a wooded
+valley on the banks of a small stream, that fell into the chain of lakes
+which we had crossed. It is probably this river, and chain of lakes,
+that the Indians ascend from the Coppermine River in canoes to the
+height of land which they cross on their route to Bear Lake.[13] The
+ridges of hill over which we marched on this day consisted of spotted
+sandstone and porphyry. The temperature in the evening was 47 degrees,
+and the night was frosty. Two white wolves took a survey of our
+bivouack, but did not venture within gun-shot.
+
+[Sidenote: Tuesday, 15th.] Starting on the 15th at five o'clock, we
+marched until eight, when we halted to breakfast. The air felt very
+cold, although the thermometer was not below 39 degrees. In the early
+part of the day we crossed some ridges of sandstone, and towards noon we
+travelled over granite, similar to that which abounds in the
+neighbourhood of Fort Enterprize. Much wood was seen in a valley far to
+the westward, but the hills over which our course lay were quite naked.
+The bog whortleberry (_vaccinium uliginosum_,) however, grew abundantly
+on these hills, and as its fruit was now in the highest perfection, the
+men at every resting-place threw themselves down, and indulged freely,
+without sustaining any injury.
+
+In the afternoon our route was over nearly horizontal strata of spotted
+sandstone and conglomerate. About three o'clock we had gained the summit
+of the height of land separating the Coppermine River from Great Bear
+Lake, and obtained from it an extensive view of a lower and well wooded
+country; but all the grounds in our immediate neighbourhood consisted of
+barren sandstone strata. After looking in vain for a comfortable
+sleeping-place, as the night threatened to be stormy, and a moist and
+cold fog was setting in, we were obliged to content ourselves with
+building a rude shelter with blocks of sandstone; and to use for firing
+a black lichen (_cornicularia divergens_,) which, fortunately, grew
+plentifully in the crevices of the rock. The distance walked this day
+was about fourteen miles. We had no meridional observations, because the
+sky was obscured.
+
+We had supped, and most of the men had retired to rest, when Mr.
+Kendall, in sweeping the horizon with his telescope, saw three Indians
+coming down a hill, and directing their steps towards us. More moss was
+immediately thrown on the fire, and the St. George's ensign hoisted on
+the end of a musquet, to point out to the comers who we were; but as
+they hid the youngest of their number in a ravine, at the foot of the
+hill, and the two seniors seemed to approach slowly and with suspicion,
+Mr. Kendall and I went unarmed to meet them. They came up, one with his
+bow and arrows in his hand, and the other with his gun cocked; but as
+soon as they recognised our dress, which was the same that I had worn in
+our voyage round Bear Lake, the preceding autumn, when I had seen most
+of the Hare Indian tribe, they shouted in an ecstasy of joy, shook hands
+most cordially with us, and called loudly for the young lad to come up.
+The meeting was no less gratifying to us: these people had brought furs
+and provisions to Fort Franklin in the winter, and they now seemed to be
+friends come to rejoice with us on the termination of our voyage. We
+learned from them, partly by signs, and partly from the little we
+understood of their language, that by the advice of It-chinnah, the
+Hare Indian Chief, they had been hunting for some time in this
+neighbourhood, in the hopes of falling in with us on our way from the
+sea; that they would give us all the provision they had collected,
+accompany us to Bear Lake, and warn all the Indians in the neighbourhood
+of our arrival. They appeared much surprised, when, placing the compass
+on the ground, we showed them the exact bearing of the mouth of Dease's
+River; and they were not able to comprehend how we knew the way in a
+quarter through which we had never travelled. They said, however, that
+they would conduct us in the morning to the Indian portage road, where
+we would have better walking than by keeping the direct route across the
+hills. We had reserved but little that we could present to these kind
+people, though every one contrived to muster some small article for
+them, which they gratefully received. They were dressed, after the
+manner of their tribe, with fillets of deer-skin round their heads and
+wrists, and carried in their hands a pair of deer's horns and a few
+willow twigs, which are all serviceable in enabling them to approach the
+rein-deer, in the way described by Mr. Wentzel in the Narrative of
+Captain Franklin's former voyage.
+
+Ooligbuck, who had gone out to hunt, returned in the night. He met an
+Indian who had just killed a deer with an arrow, and had tried to
+persuade him to come to us; but neither of them understood the other's
+language, and the Indian, probably terrified by the sight of an
+Esquimaux armed with a gun, presented him with a piece of the deer's
+meat, and then made off in an opposite direction. Many of the Hare
+Indians abstain from visiting the forts for several years, and it is
+possible that this one had not heard of us, or at least had not received
+a distinct account of our intention of returning his way, and of our
+having an Esquimaux with us. Our Indian friends told us that they did
+not know that any of their countrymen were hunting in the direction
+which Ooligbuck pointed out.
+
+[Sidenote: Wednesday, 16th.] On the 16th a thick fog prevented us from
+quitting our bivouack until seven o'clock, when the Indians led us down
+the hill about a mile to the portage road, and we resumed the precise
+line of march that we had followed from the Coppermine River, (S. 63
+degrees W.) Such of our Highlandmen as had been in the service of the
+Hudson's Bay Company, and, consequently knew from experience the
+difficulty of travelling through a country without guides, could not
+help expressing their surprise at the justness of the course we had
+followed. We had not concealed from them, that from want of
+observations, or from the difficulty of estimating the distance walked,
+we might err a mile or two in our reckoning, so that they were prepared,
+on our reaching Bear Lake, to turn a little to the right or left in
+search of the river; but they had scarcely hoped to have reached that
+point without having to perform a single mile of unnecessary walking.
+
+The portage-road conducted us in a short time to the principal branch of
+Dease's River, on the banks of which, at the distance of six miles from
+our encampment, we halted to breakfast. The stream there receives
+another branch, but it is fordable without difficulty, being nowhere
+much above knee-deep. A little way further to the westward, however, it
+is less rapid, and forms frequent lake-like expansions. Our march from
+last night's encampment was over sandstone rocks, and down a pretty
+rapid ascent. The ground was barren in the extreme, except at our
+breakfasting place, where there was a convenient clump of wood and a
+profusion of whortleberries. Having finished this meal, we resumed the
+march, with the intention of halting a few miles further on, that our
+Indian friends might rejoin us with their provision, which lay in store
+to the southward of our route. We therefore encamped at half past two
+o'clock in a pleasant pine clump, and immediately set fire to a tree to
+apprize the Indians of our situation. They arrived at sunset, heavily
+laden with tongues, fat, and half-dried meat; and M'Leay also killed two
+deer after we encamped, so that we revelled in abundance. The length of
+the day's journey was fourteen miles, and the estimated distance of the
+mouth of Dease's River twenty miles.
+
+[Sidenote: Thursday, 17th.] The provisions obtained from the Indians
+being distributed amongst the men, we commenced the march at five
+o'clock in the morning, and walked, until the usual breakfasting hour,
+over a piece of fine level ground. A range of sandstone hills rose on
+our left, and the river ran nearly parallel to our course on the right,
+but we walked at the distance of one or two miles from it, to avoid its
+windings and the swampy grounds on its borders. Pine-trees grow only in
+small detached clumps on its south bank; but the uneven valley, which we
+saw spreading for ten or twelve miles to the northward, was well wooded.
+The Needagazza Hills, which lie on the north shore of the Bear Lake,
+closed the view to the westward. Several columns of smoke were seen to
+the westward, and one to the southward; the latter, the Indians informed
+us, was made by It-chinnah. We breakfasted on the banks of a small
+stream, where the whortleberry bushes were loaded with fruit of a finer
+flavour than any we had previously met with. At noon we crossed a hill,
+on the summit of which Mr. Kendall had an observation, that placed it in
+66 degrees 58 minutes of north latitude. Our route afterwards led us
+across several deep ravines close to the river, which there runs by the
+base of some lofty cliffs, of light red sandstone, and we pushed on in
+great spirits, and at a rapid pace, with the intention of reaching Bear
+Lake that evening; but the Indians complaining that they were unable to
+keep up with us, we halted at three P.M. Several trees were then set on
+fire to apprize It-chinnah and his party of our approach; and, after
+supper, I went to the summit of a hill, and readily recognised the
+islands in Dease's Bay of Bear Lake, from their peculiar form and
+disposition.
+
+[Sidenote: Friday, 18th.] Setting out at three A.M. on the 18th, the
+Indians conducted us over a rising ground, covered with white spruces,
+to a bay of the Great Bear Lake, about a mile from Dease's River. After
+breakfast, our stock of provisions being examined, it was found that we
+had two days' allowance remaining. A party was next sent to Dease's
+River to make a raft for setting the two nets, and they were also
+directed to look for traces of Beaulieu and his party. He had been
+ordered by Captain Franklin to leave the fort on the 6th of August, and
+to make the best of his way to the rendezvous, where he was to remain to
+the 20th of September. The length of his voyage, allowing for two or
+three days detention by adverse winds, was not expected to exceed seven
+or eight days, nor to be protracted, under any circumstances, beyond ten
+or twelve. We had, therefore, reason to suppose that he might have
+reached Dease's River by this time. He was fully aware of the
+inconvenience that we might experience, should we reach the appointed
+spot and find no provisions there; and to stimulate him to make as much
+haste as possible, I had promised him a fowling-piece, on condition that
+we found him waiting for us on our arrival. Huts were made to sleep in,
+and several trees set on fire to point out our position to the Indians
+in the neighbourhood.
+
+[Sidenote: Saturday, 19th.] The mossy ground near our encampment caught
+fire in the night, and the flames spread so rapidly that we were obliged
+on the morning of the 19th, to move to the banks of the river, where we
+made new huts. Owing to the loss of a hatchet in driving the stakes,
+only one net had been set the preceding evening, and in it we took eight
+carp. The raft being made of green wood was not sufficiently buoyant,
+and a new one was, therefore, constructed this day of dried timber. The
+carp afforded a breakfast for the party, and supper consumed all our
+deer's meat, together with a portion of the remainder of the pemmican.
+The young Indian went off in the afternoon in quest of It-chinnah's
+party. A strong easterly wind blowing all this day, was adverse to
+Beaulieu's advance.
+
+[Sidenote: Sunday, 20th.] On Sunday, the 20th, prayers were read, and
+thanks returned to the Almighty for his gracious protection and the
+success which had attended our voyage. The nets yielding seventeen pike,
+carp, and white fish, provided an ample breakfast for the party, and
+before supper time the young Indian returned with two of his countrymen,
+bringing meat sufficient for three days consumption. Part of it was the
+flesh of the musk-ox, which was fat and juicy, but had a high musky
+flavour. We had seen none of these animals on our march from the
+Coppermine River, although we frequently noticed their foot marks.
+Frequent squalls during the day brought much rain, but the huts which we
+had made of pine branches kept us dry. We could not but consider
+ourselves fortunate in having had no rain in the journey overland, when
+there was not sufficient wood to afford us the shelter we now
+experienced.
+
+[Sidenote: Monday, 21st.] On the 21st the nets yielded sixteen fish,
+which were enough for breakfast. Mr. Kendall crossed the river on a
+raft, and went to the top of a hill to the westward to look for
+Beaulieu; and, by way of keeping the men employed, I sent M'Leay and
+some of our best hunters in quest of deer, and set the carpenter and the
+remainder of the party to make oars. Our Indian friends left us to warn
+some more of their countrymen, of our situation, and five others arrived
+in the evening, bringing meat and large basketfuls of whortleberries.
+M'Leay and the other hunters returned without having seen any deer.
+
+[Sidenote: Tuesday, 22nd.] To secure a stock of provision for our
+journey to the fort, in the event of any accident preventing the arrival
+of the boat, I resolved to send half the party on a distant excursion,
+and on the 22nd, Gillet, M'Leay, M'Duffie, M'Lellan, and Ooligbuck, were
+despatched to hunt in the neighbourhood of Limestone Point, on the north
+shore of the lake, with orders not to extend their excursions beyond
+Haldanes River, which falls into the lake about sixty miles to the
+westward of Dease River. If they went on to Haldanes River, they were to
+set up a mark on Limestone Point, that I might know whether they had
+passed or not. They took with them a small supply of provision, and an
+Indian guide. In the evening two Indians came with more meat. They were
+desirous of being paid with ammunition, which they much needed, but we
+had none to give them, and they cheerfully took our notes of hand for
+payment, on their arrival at the fort in the winter.
+
+[Sidenote: Wednesday, 23rd.] The 23d day of August having passed away
+like the four preceding ones, in anxious expectation of Beaulieu's
+arrival, I began to apprehend that some serious accident had happened to
+his boat, and to fear that we should be obliged to walk round the Lake
+to the Fort. The distance exceeding three hundred miles, we could not
+expect to accomplish it in less than three weeks, and not without much
+fatigue and suffering, for the men's stock of shoes was nearly
+exhausted, their clothing ill adapted for the frosty nights that occur
+in September, and deer do not frequent, at this season, much of the
+country through which our route lay. I naturally looked forward to such
+a march with uneasiness, yet, as the season was drawing to a close, I
+determined not to delay setting out beyond the 28th, when I intended to
+engage some Indians as guides, and to take with us as much dried meat as
+we could carry. The wind blew from the south-west this day, and we were
+much tormented by sand-flies.
+
+[Sidenote: Thursday, 24th.] On the evening of the 24th, as we were about
+to retire to bed, having given up all hopes of Beaulieu's arrival that
+day, we heard people talking in the direction of the mouth of the river,
+and soon afterwards saw a boat and several canoes. A musket being fired
+to show them our position, they steered for the encampment, and landed
+opposite to the huts. They proved to be Beaulieu's party, consisting of
+four Canadians, four Chipewyan hunters, and ten Dog-Ribs, which, with
+their wives and children, amounted to about thirty in all. We learnt
+from Beaulieu, that he had been sent off from the Fort by Mr. Dease, on
+the 6th, with strict injunctions to proceed to the rendezvous with his
+utmost speed; but he pleaded the badness of the weather and the adverse
+winds as the cause of his delay. He had not seen the five men I sent off
+on the 22d, though he had noticed a fire in a bay near Limestone Point,
+which I had no doubt was made by them; I therefore embarked directly to
+rejoin them at that place, accompanied by Mr. Kendall and the remainder
+of our party, two of the Canadians, and an Indian named the Babillard;
+directing Beaulieu to stay at the huts until he heard from us again. We
+rowed all night, and soon after day-break reached the spot where the
+fire had been made, but found no marks to indicate which way our men had
+gone: neither was there any mark at Limestone Point; I therefore caused
+a large fire to be made at the latter place, and remained there the
+whole day.
+
+[Sidenote: Saturday, 26th.] Our people not appearing on the 26th, I
+returned in the boat to Dease River, leaving Mr. Kendall and the
+Babillard at Limestone Point. Beaulieu had seen nothing of the
+absentees, and it was therefore evident that they had gone on to Haldane
+River, whither I resolved to proceed in search of them; but that they
+might not suffer from want of food, if by any chance we missed them, I
+directed Beaulieu's party to remain where they were, until I sent them
+permission to depart by two Canadians, whom I took with me on purpose in
+a small canoe. Mr. Dease had directed Beaulieu to go to M'Tavish Bay to
+hunt deer, and dry meat for the fort, as soon as we arrived; and as the
+boat was well adapted for carrying dried provision, I now exchanged it
+with his north canoe.
+
+[Sidenote: Sunday, 27th.] We rejoined Mr. Kendall at Limestone Point at
+day-break on the morning of the 27th, and afterwards paddled along the
+coast until two P.M., when a strong head-wind obliged us to put ashore.
+As soon as we landed, I set out with the Babillard for Haldane River,
+carrying a small quantity of pemmican, lest the people should be in want
+of food; and after a walk, or rather a run, of five miles, I had the
+happiness of finding them all well, and with plenty of provisions, as
+they had killed six deer. Their Indian guide had taken them a little
+inland, by which they had missed Limestone Point; but they were very
+sorry it had so happened, when they learned the anxiety they had
+occasioned to Mr. Kendall and myself, by their not erecting the mark
+there as they had been directed to do. The wind moderating after sunset,
+Mr. Kendall joined us with the two canoes, so that the party was again
+happily reunited. [Sidenote: Monday, 28th.] On Monday the 28th, I sent
+back the small canoe with the Babillard and two Canadians, to join
+Beaulieu, and proceed with the rest of the party in the larger canoe to
+Fort Franklin, where we arrived on Friday, the 1st of September, and
+received a warm welcome from Mr. Dease, after an absence of seventy-one
+days, during which period we had travelled by land and water one
+thousand seven hundred and nine geographical, or nineteen hundred and
+eighty statute miles.
+
+Having now brought the Narrative of the proceedings of the Eastern
+Detachment to a conclusion, the pleasing duty remains of expressing my
+gratitude to the party for their cheerful and obedient conduct. Not a
+murmur of discontent was heard throughout the voyage, but every
+individual engaged with alacrity in the laborious tasks he was called
+upon to perform. Where all behaved with the greatest zeal, it would be
+invidious to particularize any; and I am happy in having it in my power
+to add, that since our return to England, Gillet, Fuller and Tysoe, who
+were in His Majesty's service previous to their being employed on the
+Expedition, have been rewarded by promotion. Our good-natured and
+faithful Esquimaux friend Ooligbuck, carried with him to his native
+lands the warmest wishes and esteem of the whole party. His attachment
+to us was never doubtful, even when we were surrounded by a tribe of his
+own nation.
+
+The general abilities and professional skill of my companion, Lieutenant
+Kendall, are duly appreciated in higher quarters, and can derive little
+lustre from any eulogium from me; but I cannot deny myself the
+gratification of recording my deep sense of the good fortune and
+happiness I experienced in being associated with a gentleman of such
+pleasing manners, and one upon whose friendly support and sound judgment
+I could with confidence rely, on occasions of difficulty and doubt
+inseparable from such a voyage.
+
+_End of Dr. Richardson's Narrative of the Proceedings of the Eastern
+Detachment._
+
+
+
+
+_TABLE of the distances travelled by both Branches of the Expedition,
+and of the extent of their Discoveries in 1827._
+
+  BY THE WESTERN PARTY.                                 _Statute Miles._
+  ----------------------------------------------------------------------
+  From Fort Franklin, by Fort Norman, to Point Separation (river
+  course)                                                            525
+    Point Separation to Pillage Point, at the Mouth of the Mackenzie 129
+    Pillage Point to Return reef (sea-voyage out)                    374
+    Return Reef, back to Fort Franklin, including Peel River        1020
+                                                                    ----
+      Distance travelled by the Western Party in July, August,
+      September, 1826.                                              2048
+
+  BY THE EASTERN PARTY.
+  ----------------------------------------------------------------------
+  From Fort Franklin to Point Separation, along with the western
+  party                                                              525
+    Point Separation to Point Encounter (river course.)              159
+    Encounter to the Coppermine River (sea-voyage[14])               863
+   The mouth of the Coppermine, over land to Fort Franklin           433
+                                                                    ----
+     Distance travelled by the Eastern Party in July and
+     August, 1826                                                   1980
+
+  EXTENT OF THE DISCOVERIES OF THE WESTERN PARTY IN 1826.
+  ----------------------------------------------------------------------
+  From Point Separation to the mouth of the Mackenzie, by a western
+  branch, not previously known                                       129
+    Pillage Point by the sea-coast to Point Beechey, which was
+    seen from Return Reef                                            391
+  Peel River and a branch of the Mackenzie surveyed for the first
+  time, on the return                                                 90
+                                                                    ----
+                                                                     610
+
+  EXTENT OF THE DISCOVERIES OF THE EASTERN PARTY IN 1826.
+  ----------------------------------------------------------------------
+  From Sacred Island to Point Encounter, being a portion of the
+  river lying to the eastward of Mackenzie's route                    37
+    Point Encounter, along the coast to the Coppermine River         863
+    The Copper Mountains, overland to Bear Lake                      115
+                                                                    ----
+                                                                    1015
+
+_TABLE of Times of High Water, reduced to Full and Change, by E.N.
+Kendall, Lieutenant, R.N._
+
+                           Geographic    Times of High Water.   Winds.
+                           Position.
+                                                     Reduced
+          Names of Places  Lat     Lon.              to full  Direction.
+  Date.   of Observations.  N.      W.     Observed  & change.    Force.
+
+                                                        General Remarks.
+  ----------------------------------------------------------------------
+  1825.                    d. m.   d. m.   h. m.     h. m.
+  Aug.
+    16 Garry Island        69 29  135 41   1  0 P.M. 10 19   N.E.      6
+                                                         No ice visible.
+  1826.
+  July
+     9 Point Toker         69 38  132 18   4 25 P.M. 1  45   N.E.b.E.  5
+                        Loose ice covering the sea. Rise of water 20 in.
+
+    10 } Bay between  }                  { 5 0  P.M. 0  56   East.     8
+       } Points Toker }    69 43  131 58 {          Heavy pieces of ice.
+    12 } and Warren   }                  { 6 48 P.M. 1  48   -         5
+                                                     Little ice visible.
+
+    13 Atkinson Island     69 55  130 43   7 0  P.M. 0  32   S.E.      1
+                                                Rise and fall 18 inches.
+
+    14 Browell Cove        70 00  130 20   7 0  P.M. 1  12   West.     6
+                                              Very little rise and fall.
+
+    18 Point Sir           70 08  127 45   3 15 A.M. 3  47   Calm.     -
+       P. Maitland
+    19 Near Cape Bathurst  70 33  127 21   1 30 A.M. 1  28   E.S.E.    6
+                                   { In the mouth of Harrowby Bay, round
+                         (18 & 19) {    which the tide appeared to flow.
+                                   {    Flood setting from the Eastward.
+                                   {        Rise and fall 14-1/2 inches.
+
+    20 Point Fitton        70 11  126 14   4 00 A.M. 3  18   N.W.      6
+                                                Rise and fall 13 inches.
+
+_TABLE of Times of High Water, &c.--Concluded._
+
+                           Geographic    Times of High Water.   Winds.
+                           Position.
+                                                     Reduced
+          Names of Places  Lat     Lon.              to full  Direction.
+  Date.   of Observations.  N.      W.     Observed  & change.    Force.
+
+                                                        General Remarks.
+  ----------------------------------------------------------------------
+  1826.                    d. m.   d. m.   h. m.     h. m.
+  July
+    20 W. Horton River     69 50  125 55   4 15 P.M. 3 15    W.N.W.    9
+
+    21 -                   -  -   -   -    5 0  A.M. 3 49     -        7
+
+    27 Cape Lyon           69 46  122 51 {11 50 A.M. 6 33    E.N.E.    8
+                                         {      Stream of flood from the
+                                         {       Eastward. Rise and fall
+    30 {Three miles from }               {                    14 inches.
+       {Buchanan River   } 69 24  120 03 { 5 0  P.M. 8 20    W.N.W.    8
+                            Ice close and heavy, Rise and fall 9 inches.
+  Aug.
+     1 Point Wise          69 03  119 00   8 30 P.M. 7 04    West.     4
+                                                            Compact ice.
+
+     3 Stapylton Bay       68 52  116 03   9 0  P.M. 8 22    East.     2
+                                               In a bay filled with ice.
+
+     4 { Between C. Hope }
+       { and C. Bexley   } 68 57  115 48   3 15 P.M. 8 25    E.S.E.    4
+                                                         Ice to seaward.
+
+     5 Chantry Island      68 45  114 23   8 30 P.M. 7 22    W.S.W.    3
+                                                    Loose masses of ice.
+
+     6 {Seven miles from }
+       {C. Krusenstern   } 68 32  113 53   9 00 P.M. 7 13    Variable. -
+                            Flood from the S.E. Velocity 3 miles an hour.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[13] Franklin's First Journey to the Polar Sea, p. 337.
+
+[14] All the distances mentioned in the narrative of the proceedings of
+the eastern detachment, are geographical miles.
+
+
+
+
+CAPTAIN FRANKLIN'S NARRATIVE RESUMED.
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+Brief Notices of the Second Winter at Bear Lake--Traditions of the
+Dog-Ribs--Leave Fort Franklin--Winter Journey to Fort Chipewyan--Remarks
+on the progress of improvement in the Fur Countries--Set out in Canoes
+on the Voyage Homeward--Join Dr. Richardson at Cumberland House--Mr.
+Drummond's Narrative--Arrival in Canada, at New York, and London.
+
+
+[Sidenote: Thursday, 21st] During our absence on the sea-coast, Mr.
+Dease had employed the Canadians in making such repairs about the
+buildings as to fit them for another winter's residence, but he had not
+been able to complete his plans before the arrival of Dr. Richardson's
+party, through whose assistance they were finished shortly after our
+return. The inconvenience arising from the unfinished state of the
+houses was a trifle, when compared to the disappointment we felt at the
+poverty of our store, which contained neither meat nor dried fish, and
+the party was living solely on the daily produce of the nets, which, at
+this time, was barely sufficient for its support. Notwithstanding the
+repeated promises which the Fort hunters and the Dog-Ribs in general had
+given us, of exerting themselves to collect provisions during the
+summer, we found that they had not supplied more than three deer since
+our departure. The only reason they assigned to Mr. Dease, on his
+remonstrating with them, was, that they had been withheld from hunting
+at any great distance from the Fort, by the fear of meeting the Copper
+Indians, who, they fancied, would be lying in wait to attack them. This
+excuse, however, had been so often alleged without a cause, that it was
+considered mere evasion, and we attributed their negligence to the
+indolence and apathy which mark the character of this tribe.
+
+I need not dilate upon the anxieties which we felt at the prospect of
+commencing the winter with such a scanty supply of food. We at once
+sent off five men, provided with nets and lines, to the fishery in
+M'Vicar's Bay, which had been so productive in the preceding year, in
+the hope that, besides gaining their own subsistence, they might store
+up some fish for us, which could be brought to the Fort when the lake
+was frozen. Our anxiety was, in some measure, relieved on the 28th of
+September, by the arrival of Beaulieu and some hunters, from the north
+side of Bear Lake, with a supply of dried meat. The term of Beaulieu's
+engagement being now expired, he was desirous of quitting our service;
+and though he was our best hunter, Mr. Dease advised me to comply with
+his request, as he had collected a number of useless followers, whom we
+must have fed during the short days. He accordingly took his departure,
+accompanied by seventeen persons, which was a very important relief to
+our daily issue of provision. I furnished them with ammunition from the
+store to enable them to hunt on their way to Marten Lake, where they
+intended to fish until the return of spring.
+
+[Sidenote: October.] Calculating that the stores, which had been ordered
+from York Factory, must have arrived at Fort Norman, I despatched Mr.
+Kendall for them; and he returned on the 8th of October, with as much of
+them as his canoe would carry. The men were immediately furnished with
+warm clothing, of which the eastern party were in great need, having
+left every thing on quitting the sea-coast, except one suit each. We
+were rejoiced at the receipt of a large packet of letters from England,
+dated in the preceding February. They brought out the gratifying
+intelligence that my friend Lieutenant Back had been promoted, in
+December, 1825, to the rank of Commander. I likewise received a large
+packet of news papers from his Excellency the Earl of Dalhousie,
+Governor-in-Chief of Canada, to whom I take this opportunity of
+returning my best thanks for the warm interest he took in the welfare of
+the Expedition.
+
+I shall now briefly trace the advance of winter: the nights were frosty
+and the weather was unsettled and gloomy, from the time of our arrival
+to the close of September. Heavy rain fell on the 2nd of October, which
+on the following day was succeeded by hard frost and much snow. The snow
+which fell on the 8th remained on the ground for the rest of the season.
+The small lake was frozen on the 12th, from which day we dated the
+commencement of winter as we had done in the preceding year. There was a
+succession of gales, and almost constant snow from that time to the
+close of the month; and on the 30th the thermometer first descended
+below zero. The snow then was much deeper than at the close of November
+in the former year. The last of the migratory birds, which were a few
+hardy ducks, took their departure on the 18th of October.
+
+[Sidenote: November.] Stormy weather kept the Bear Lake open until the
+16th of November, nine days later than the year before; and for some
+weeks we received no assistance from the nets, which again reduced our
+stock of meat to a small quantity. The same occupations, amusements, and
+exercise, were followed by the officers and men as in the former
+residence; and the occurrences were so similar, that particular mention
+of them is unnecessary. On the 25th of November we despatched some men
+with dogs and sledges to bring the remainder of the stores from Fort
+Norman. As it was my intention, as soon as the maps and drawings could
+be finished, to proceed on the ice to Fort Chipewyan, in order to secure
+provisions for the out-going of the party, and to reach England by the
+earliest conveyance, I requested of Mr. Brisbois to provide a cariole,
+sledges, and snow-shoes, for my journey, the birch of which they are
+made being plentiful in the neighbourhood of Fort Norman, and he having
+a better workman than any at our establishment. On the 28th Mackenzie
+arrived from M'Vicar's Bay, with an acceptable supply of fine
+white-fish. We learned from him that our party, as well as the Indians,
+were living in abundance; and that the latter had shown their wisdom
+this season, not only in taking up their quarters at that place, instead
+of remaining about the Fort, as they had done in the former year, but
+also in building themselves houses like those of our men, and thus
+having more comforts and better shelter than they had ever before
+enjoyed. The fishery opposite the Fort was now sufficiently productive
+for our wants, though the fish, from being out of season, disagreed so
+much with several of the men as to cause great debility, which was the
+more distressing to us, as we were unable to supply the invalids with
+meat on more than two days in the week. Contrary to what had happened
+last season, we did not receive meat this year from more than six or
+seven persons of either the Hare Indians or Dog-Rib tribes, after the
+ice set in; this happened, probably, from our being now unprovided with
+goods to exchange for their furs; though they had been expressly told in
+the spring, that we should have abundance of ammunition, tobacco, and
+other supplies, to purchase all the meat they would bring.
+
+By the return of our men from Fort Norman, we learned that one of our
+Dog-Rib hunters had murdered a man of his tribe, in the autumn, near
+the mouth of the Bear Lake River. The culprit being at the house, we
+inquired into the truth of the report, which was found correct; and he
+was in consequence instantly discharged from our service. His victim had
+been a man of notoriously loose habits, and in this instance had carried
+off the hunter's wife and child, while he was in pursuit of deer, at a
+great distance from the Fort. The husband pursued the guilty pair the
+moment he discovered their flight, and, on overtaking them, instantly
+shot the seducer; but the woman escaped a similar fate, by having the
+presence of mind to turn aside the muzzle of the gun when in the act of
+being discharged. She did not, however, escape punishment: her husband
+struck her senseless to the ground with the stock of his gun, and would
+have completed her destruction, but for the cries and intreaties of
+their only child. This transaction adds another to the melancholy list
+of about thirty murders which have been perpetrated on the borders of
+this lake since 1799, when the first trading post was established.
+
+The Dog-Rib Indians, being derived from the same stock with the
+Chipewyans, have many traditions and opinions in common with that
+people. I requested Mr. Dease to obtain answers from the old men of the
+tribe to a few queries which I drew up, and the following is the
+substance of the information he procured, which may be compared with the
+more extended statements by Hearne and Mackenzie, of the general belief
+of the Chipewyans.
+
+The _first man_, they said, was, according to the tradition of their
+fathers, named Chapewee. He found the world well stocked with food, and
+he created children, to whom he gave two kinds of fruit, the black and
+the white, but forbade them to eat the black. Having thus issued his
+commands for the guidance of his family, he took leave of them for a
+time, and made a long excursion for the purpose of conducting the sun to
+the world. During this, his first absence, his children were obedient,
+and ate only the white fruit, but they consumed it all; the consequence
+was, that when he a second time absented himself to bring the moon, and
+they longed for fruit, they forgot the orders of their father, and ate
+of the black, which was the only kind remaining. He was much displeased
+on his return, and told them that in future the earth would produce bad
+fruits, and that they would be tormented by sickness and
+death--penalties which have attached to his descendants to the present
+day. Chapewee himself lived so long that his throat was worn out, and he
+could no longer enjoy life; but he was unable to die, until, at his own
+request, one of his people drove a beaver-tooth into his head.
+
+The same, or another Chapewee (for there is some uncertainty on this
+head,) lived with his family on a strait between two seas. Having there
+constructed a weir to catch fish, such a quantity were taken, that the
+strait was choked up, and the water rose and overflowed the earth.
+Chapewee embarked with his family in a canoe, taking with them all
+manner of birds and beasts. The waters covered the earth for many days,
+but, at length, Chapewee said, we cannot live always thus, we must find
+land again, and he accordingly sent a beaver to search for it. The
+beaver was drowned, and his carcase was seen floating on the water; on
+which Chapewee despatched a musk-rat on the same errand. The second
+messenger was long absent, and when he did return was near dying with
+fatigue, but he had a little earth in his paws. The sight of the earth
+rejoiced Chapewee, but his first care was about the safety of his
+diligent servant, the rat, which he rubbed gently with his hands, and
+cherished in his bosom, until it revived. He next took up the earth, and
+mouldering it with his fingers, placed it on the water, where it
+increased by degrees until it formed an island in the ocean. A wolf was
+the first animal Chapewee placed on the infant earth, but the weight
+proving too great, it began to sink on one side, and was in danger of
+turning over. To prevent this accident the wolf was directed to move
+round the island, which he did for a whole year, and in that time the
+earth increased so much in size, that all on board the canoe were able
+to disembark on it. Chapewee, on landing, stuck up a piece of wood,
+which became a fir-tree, and grew with amazing rapidity, until its top
+reached the skies. A squirrel ran up this tree, and was pursued by
+Chapewee, who endeavoured to knock it down, but could not overtake it.
+He continued the chase, however, until he reached the stars, where he
+found a fine plain, and a beaten road. In this road he set a snare made
+of his sister's hair, and then returned to the earth. The sun appeared
+as usual in the heavens in the morning, but at noon it was caught by the
+snare which Chapewee had set for the squirrel, and the sky was instantly
+darkened. Chapewee's family on this said to him, you must have done
+something wrong when you were aloft, for we no longer enjoy the light of
+day; "I have," replied he, "but it was unintentionally." Chapewee then
+endeavoured to repair the fault he had committed, and sent a number of
+animals up the tree to release the sun, by cutting the snare, but the
+intense heat of that luminary reduced them all to ashes. The efforts of
+the more active animals being thus frustrated, a ground mole, though
+such a grovelling and awkward beast, succeeded by burrowing under the
+road in the sky, until it reached and cut asunder the snare which bound
+the sun. It lost its eyes, however, the instant it thrust its head into
+the light, and its nose and teeth have ever since been brown, as if
+burnt. Chapewee's island, during these transactions, increased to the
+present size of the American Continent; and he traced the course of the
+rivers, and scraped out the lakes by drawing his fingers through the
+earth. He next allotted to the quadrupeds, birds, and fishes, their
+different stations, and endowing them with certain capacities, he told
+them that they were in future to provide for their own safety, because
+man would destroy them whenever he found their tracks; but to console
+them, he said, that when they died they should be like a seed of grass,
+which, when thrown into the water, springs again into life. The animals
+objected to this arrangement, and said, let us when we die be as a stone
+which, when thrown into a lake, disappears forever from the sight of
+man. Chapewee's family complained of the penalty of death entailed upon
+them for eating the black fruit, on which he granted that such of them
+as dreamed certain dreams should be men of medicine, capable of curing
+diseases and of prolonging life. In order to preserve this virtue, they
+were not to tell their dreams until a certain period had elapsed. To
+acquire the power of foretelling events, they were to take an ant alive,
+and insert it under the skin of the palm of the hand, without letting
+any one know what they had done.
+
+For a long time Chapewee's descendants were united as one family, but at
+length some young men being accidentally killed in a game, a quarrel
+ensued, and a general dispersion of mankind took place. One Indian fixed
+his residence on the borders of the lake, taking with him a dog big with
+young. The pups in due time were littered, and the Indian, when he went
+out to fish, carefully tied them up to prevent their straying. Several
+times as he approached his tent, he heard a noise of children talking
+and playing; but on entering it he only perceived the pups tied up as
+usual. His curiosity being excited by the noises he had heard, he
+determined to watch, and one day pretending to go out and fish,
+according to custom, he concealed himself in a convenient place. In a
+short time he again heard voices, and rushing suddenly into the tent,
+beheld some beautiful children sporting and laughing, with the dog-skins
+lying by their side. He threw the skins into the fire, and the children,
+retaining their proper forms, grew up, and were the ancestors of the
+Dog-Rib nation.
+
+On Mr. Dease questioning some of the elderly men as to their knowledge
+of a supreme Being, they replied--"We believe that there is a Great
+Spirit, who created every thing, both us and the world for our use. We
+suppose that he dwells in the lands from whence the white people come,
+that he is kind to the inhabitants of those lands, and that there are
+people there who never die: the winds that blow from that quarter
+(south) are always warm. He does not know the wretched state of our
+island, nor the pitiful condition in which we are."
+
+To the question, whom do your medicine men address when they conjure?
+They answered,--"We do not think that they speak to the master of life,
+for if they did, we should fare better than we do, and should not die.
+He does not inhabit our lands."
+
+[Sidenote: December.] On the evening of the 1st of December a brilliant
+comet appeared in the western quarter, which had been indistinctly seen
+the two preceding nights. A line drawn through alpha and eta Ursæ Majoris
+led to its position; it also formed a trapezium with alpha Aquilæ and alpha
+Lyræ and alpha Coronæ Borealis. This was the last night of its being
+visible. The temperature had been unusually high for several days, about
+this time +18 above zero; and, with the exception of the night of the
+1st, the atmosphere gloomy; and we amused ourselves with conjecturing,
+whether this extraordinary warmth, and the density of the clouds, could
+in any way be ascribed to the comet.
+
+At Christmas we were favoured by a visit from Mr. Brisbois, to whom we
+felt much obliged for the care he had taken of our sea-stores, beside
+many personal civilities. The visit of a stranger is always heartily
+welcomed in such a desolate region, and to provide for the entertainment
+of the party during Mr. Brisbois's stay, Captain Back and Mr. Kendall
+displayed their ingenuity in cutting out several pasteboard figures, to
+represent behind an illuminated screen the characters of a comic piece,
+which Captain Back had written for the occasion. The exhibition was
+entirely new to most of the party, and its execution afforded such
+general amusement, that it was repeated on three nights at the request
+of the men. [Sidenote: January.] The New Year was celebrated by a dance,
+which closed our festivities; and on Mr. Brisbois quitting us the
+following day, we resumed our ordinary occupations. Two Hare Indians
+arrived at the fort, whom Mr. Kendall recognised as the persons who had
+brought provisions to Dr. Richardson's party, as soon as they had heard
+of his having reached the Bear Lake Portage; and we had much pleasure
+in rewarding their promptitude on that occasion, by a substantial
+present and a silver medal. They were particularly pleased at the
+medals, and assured us that they should be proud to show them to the
+rest of their tribe as tokens of our approbation.
+
+On the evening of the 4th of January, the temperature being -52.2
+degrees, Mr. Kendall froze some mercury in the mould of a pistol bullet,
+and fired it against a door at the distance of six paces. A small
+portion of the mercury penetrated to the depth of one eighth of an inch,
+but the remainder only just lodged in the wood. Much snow fell in the
+second week of January; and on the 12th, we ascertained that its average
+depth was two feet in the sheltered parts of the woods. The weather
+became mild after the 20th; and on the 22nd, the sun's rays were so
+powerful as to raise a spirit thermometer with a blackened bulb, to
++30.5 degrees, when the temperature of the air was -3.5 degrees. A very
+brilliant and clearly defined parhelion was visible at the time, and
+there were only a few light clouds. The wind was east, and as usual,
+with the wind from that quarter when the sky is clear, the distant land
+appeared much distorted by refraction.
+
+The documents which had been preparing being now nearly finished, we
+sent for the cariole, &c. from Fort Norman. [Sidenote: 18th.] When the
+men came back, they brought the information, that, according to the
+report of the Indians, the ice was so rough on the Mackenzie above Fort
+Norman, that travelling would be extremely difficult. I therefore
+abandoned the intention of proceeding by that way, and resolved on
+passing through the woods to Fort Simpson, as soon as guides could be
+procured. The delay afforded me the opportunity of registering the
+lowest temperature we had witnessed in this country. [Sidenote:
+February.] At a quarter after eight in the morning of the 7th of
+February, the thermometer descended to -58 degrees; it had been -57.5
+degrees, and 57.3 degrees thrice in the course of this and the preceding
+day--between the 5th and 8th, its general state was from -48 degrees to
+-52 degrees, though it occasionally rose to -43 degrees.
+
+At Fort Enterprise, during a similar degree of cold, the atmosphere had
+been calm: but here we had a light wind, which sometimes approached to a
+fresh breeze. The sky was cloudless the whole time. Some of our men, as
+well as the Indians, were travelling on the lake during this cold
+without experiencing any greater inconvenience than having their faces
+frost bitten. The dogs, however, suffered severely, three being
+completely lamed by the frost, and all of them becoming much
+thinner.[15] These cold days were followed by windy though mild weather,
+which brought the rein-deer nearer to the Establishment; and our hunters
+killed seven within a day's march. Their reappearance in our
+neighbourhood was very gratifying to the whole party, as we were
+heartily tired of a fish-diet, and I felt an especial pleasure at being
+able to quit the place without the least apprehension of the party being
+in want of provision.
+
+The following is a list of the amount of provision we obtained at Fort
+Franklin, from the time of Mr. Dease's arrival to the close of January
+1827; independent of the supplies of pemmican, &c. for the sea voyage,
+which were procured from the Hudson's Bay Company.
+
+Small Fish, Bear Lake Herring, 79,440.--Trout, 3,475.--Pounds of fresh
+meat, 24,053.--Dried ribs of Rein Deer, 2,370.--Pounds of pounded deer's
+meat, 1,744.--Pounds of fat or tallow, 2,929.--Rein-deer tongues,
+1,849.--Beaver, 12.--Partridges, 386.--Hares, 52.
+
+On the 16th of February, Augustus and two Dog-Ribs were sent forward to
+be at the track in the line of my intended route. My departure being
+fixed for the 20th, the charts, drawings, journals, and provisions were
+distributed between the cariole and three sledges of which my train
+consisted; and as the dogs were in too weak a condition for drawing
+heavy burdens, two Indians were engaged, to accompany us four days, for
+the purpose of carrying part of the pemmican. I afterwards delivered
+written instructions to Captain Back, directing him to proceed to York
+Factory as soon as the ice should break, and from thence, by the
+Hudson's Bay ship, to England, taking with him the British party, but to
+send the Canadians to Montreal. Augustus and Ooligbuck were to be
+forwarded to Churchill, that they might rejoin their relatives.
+
+[Sidenote: Tuesday, 20th.] At ten A.M., I quitted the Fort, accompanied
+by five of our men and the two Indians, the latter dragging each sixty
+pounds of pemmican on their sledges. Captain Back, the officers, and men
+assembled to give us a farewell salute of three hearty cheers, which
+served to renew my regret at leaving a society whose members had
+endeared themselves to me by unremitting attention to their duties, and
+the greatest personal kindness. We crossed the lake expeditiously,
+favoured by a north-west gale, and then continued our course to the
+southward until sunset. The mode of bivouacking in the winter, as well
+as the course of proceeding, having been so fully described in my former
+Narrative, and by several other travellers in this country, I need not
+repeat them. We usually set forward at the first appearance of light and
+marched until sunset, halting an hour to breakfast. The rate of walking
+depended on the depth of snow; where the track was good, we made about
+two miles in the hour.
+
+On the evening of the second day, we were deserted by our Indian
+companions, who, as we afterwards learned, took advantage of the rest of
+the party being some distance in advance of them, to turn back to the
+nearest wood, and there deposit the pemmican on a stage which they
+constructed by the road side. Supposing that they had only halted in
+consequence of the gale that was then blowing, we did not send to look
+after them before the following morning, when every trace of their path
+was covered with the snow drift; and as I considered we might possibly
+spend some time in a fruitless search, I thought the wisest course was
+to put the party and dogs on a shorter allowance than usual, and proceed
+on our journey. Their conduct affords another instance of the little
+dependence that ought to be placed on the Indians of this country, when
+more than ordinary exertion is required.
+
+[Sidenote: March.] We travelled fifty miles through a swampy level
+country, thinly wooded, with a few ridges of hills visible in the
+distance, east and west of our course. The country was uneven and better
+wooded for the succeeding thirty miles. We next crossed a steep range of
+hills elevated about eight hundred feet above the surrounding land, and
+then passing over a succession of lower hills and vallies, descended to
+the Mackenzie, and following that river for thirty miles, came to Fort
+Simpson on the 8th of March; the whole distance being two hundred and
+twenty miles, and for the last one hundred and seventy miles, through a
+well wooded country. We crossed several rivers which flow into the
+Mackenzie, and some considerable lakes which are laid down in the map.
+But one solitary family of Indians were seen on the journey, and these
+were stationed within a day's march of Fort Simpson. They had inclosed
+large tracts of ground with hedges, in which they set snares for hares,
+and, being very successful, were living in abundance, and were well
+clothed, their dress consisting principally of hare skins.
+
+As soon as Mr. Smith, the chief Factor of the District, was informed of
+our approach, and that we were short of provisions, in consequence of
+the Indians having made off with the pemmican, he kindly sent a supply
+of fresh meat for our use; and on our arrival at the Fort, he gave us
+the most friendly reception. Our Indian guide had never been nearer to
+Fort Simpson by land, than the Lake of the Elevated Land, and only once
+by the course of the Mackenzie, many years before the Fort was built;
+and yet if he had not been led aside by falling upon the track leading
+to the Indians above-mentioned, he would have come upon the Mackenzie,
+directly opposite Fort Simpson. His course he told me was governed by
+his recollection of a particular mountain, which he remembered to have
+noticed from the Mackenzie, and which we now passed within two miles,
+but on his former visit, he did not approach it nearer than eighteen
+miles. Its outline must have appeared so different when seen from these
+distances, that one can hardly imagine a less observant eye than that of
+an Indian recognising any of its distinguishing points, especially as it
+was not a detached mountain, but formed one of a line of hills of
+considerable extent. Our dogs being completely tired, I remained a week
+to recruit their strength. During this interval I had the opportunity of
+examining all the accounts which the Hudson's Bay Company had to present
+for supplies to the Expedition from this department, and of making
+provision for the outward journey of Captain Back and his party.
+Arrangements were also made, that the Hudson's Bay Company should take,
+at a valuation, the spare stores of the Expedition on its quitting Bear
+Lake. I accompanied Mr. Smith to a part of the River of the Mountains,
+where a portion of the bank, several acres in extent, had been torn off,
+and thrown a considerable distance into the channel of the river. The
+disruption took place in the preceding November, some days after the
+water had been frozen, and when there was no apparent cause for its
+separation. When the water is flowing over the banks, and the earth is
+in consequence loosened, the falling of the bank is not unfrequent in
+the Mackenzie, though on a much smaller scale than in this instance. I
+can only account for the separation of the mass after the ground had
+been frozen, by the supposition, that there was some spring of warm
+water in its rear, which loosened the soil, and that the pressure of the
+ice contributed, with the weight of snow at the top, to its overthrow.
+
+At the time of my visit, an Indian woman committed suicide, by hanging
+herself, in a fit of jealousy, at an encampment a short distance from
+the Fort. I had thought that suicide was extremely rare among the
+Northern Indians; but I subsequently learned that it was not so uncommon
+as I had imagined, and I was informed of two instances that occurred in
+the year of 1826. The weather was remarkably mild; during my stay
+icicles were formed on the southern front of the house, and there were
+many other indications of an early spring.
+
+[Sidenote: Thursday, 15th.] On the afternoon of the 15th of March I took
+leave of Mr. Smith, who kindly furnished me with his best dog for my
+cariole, one of mine having proved unfit for the journey to Slave Lake;
+we were also indebted to him for the skin of a mountain goat and a lynx;
+and to Mr. M'Pherson for the skins of several smaller animals and birds,
+from the neighbourhood of the Rocky Mountains, which they added to our
+collection. Having sent back one of my men with the Indian guides to
+Bear Lake, we had now only two sledges; but as we were unable to carry
+the whole of our lading, Mr. Smith had the goodness to send a sledge and
+one of his men to convey a part of the provisions for four days. At the
+distance of eight miles we met two men with a cariole and sledge, which
+Mr. M'Vicar had sent for my use from Slave Lake; but being well provided
+I did not require the services of this party, though we derived great
+benefit from their track as we proceeded, and also from some deposits of
+provision which they had made on the route.
+
+[Sidenote: Wednesday, 21st.] Following the course of the Mackenzie, we
+arrived, on the 21st, at the expansion of the river called the Little
+Lake, and there had the pleasure of meeting two Canadians, on their way
+to Bear Lake, with a packet of letters from England. We hastened towards
+the shore and encamped; and though the night was piercingly cold, I
+spent the greatest part of it most agreeably, scanning the contents of
+the box by the unsteady light of a blazing fire. After breakfast next
+morning I despatched the packet to its destination, under the charge of
+M'Leay, who had accompanied me from Bear Lake, and retained one of the
+Canadians in his stead. We arrived at Fort Resolution, on the Slave Lake
+to breakfast, on the 26th, and I once more had the happiness of
+receiving the friendly attentions of Mr. M'Vicar, to whom it will be
+remembered by the readers of my last Narrative, that the members of that
+Expedition were so greatly indebted for his tender care of them after
+their sufferings. Dr. Richardson had quitted this place in the preceding
+December, for the purpose of joining Mr. Drummond, the Assistant
+Botanist in the Saskatchawan River, and that he might have the benefit
+of an earlier spring than in this quarter to collect plants. The
+prospect here being completely wintry, I made another halt of eight
+days, being desirous of remaining as long as I could, without incurring
+the risk of exposure to the thaw on my way to Fort Chipewyan.
+
+I was glad to find that the Chipewyans and Copper Indians were at length
+employing dogs to drag their sledges. A superstitious belief that their
+own origin was derived from those animals, had for several years past
+thrown this laborious and degrading occupation on the poor women, who,
+by the change, experienced a most happy relief. It was indeed, highly
+gratifying to observe that these Indians no longer beat their wives in
+the cruel manner to which they had been formerly accustomed; and that,
+in the comparative tenderness with which they now treat the sex, they
+have made the first and greatest step to all moral and general
+improvement.
+
+It will be recollected that on receiving, at Bear Lake, a report of the
+traces of white people having been seen near the sea-coast, I had
+requested that Mr. M'Vicar would collect a party of Indians, and send
+them to the spot to convey a letter from me to Captain Parry. Mr.
+M'Vicar now informed me that some Indians had left his Fort for the
+purpose, under the charge of a Canadian, named Joseph St. Pierre, who
+volunteered for the occasion, but the Indians continued with him only
+for a short distance beyond the east end of Slave Lake, when they became
+weary of their journey, and dropping off one by one, left him alone. St.
+Pierre, however, having determined to deliver the letter to Captain
+Parry, if possible, persevered for many days in a fruitless search for
+the river on the banks of which the marks were reported to have been
+seen; even after he had sustained the loss of all his clothes (except
+those on his person,) by the grass catching fire when he was asleep; but
+at length, being short of food, his shoes worn out, and almost without
+covering for his feet, he was compelled to return to the Fort. He was
+not at the house at the time of my visit, but I left an order with Mr.
+M'Vicar, that he might be rewarded for his zeal and exertions, and
+handsomely remunerated for his loss.
+
+[Sidenote: April.] The subsequent journey to the Athabasca Lake occupied
+eight days; we arrived at Fort Chipewyan in the afternoon of the 12th of
+April. I found Mr. Stewart, the Chief Factor of the Department,
+surrounded by a large body of Indians, who quitted the Fort as soon as
+they had exchanged their furs, in order to seek their living by fishing
+and hunting wild fowl, instead of passing four or five weeks in
+indolence about the Establishment, as had been their custom at this
+season for many preceding years. This beneficial change of conduct, on
+their part, is owing to the Hudson's Bay Company having ceased to bring
+spirits into the northern department; and to some other judicious
+regulations which the Directors have made respecting the trade with the
+natives. The plans now adopted offer supplies of clothes, and of every
+necessary, to those Indians who choose to be active in the collection of
+furs; and it was pleasing to learn, that the natives in this quarter had
+shown their acquiescence in these measures by increased exertion during
+the preceding winter. Some other very wholesome regulations have been
+introduced by the Company; amongst others, the Sabbath is ordered to be
+properly observed, and Divine Service to be read at every post. They
+have also directed, where the soil will allow, a portion of ground to be
+cultivated for the growth of culinary vegetables at each of their
+establishments, and I witnessed the good effects of this order, even at
+this advanced post, where the ground is rocky; the tables of the
+officers being supplied daily, and those of the men frequently, with
+potatoes and barley. Such luxuries were very rarely found beyond
+Cumberland House, on the route that we travelled during my former
+journey.
+
+Feeling a deep interest in the welfare of this country, in which I have
+spent a large portion of the last seven years, I have much pleasure in
+recording these improvements; and in stating my conviction, that the
+benevolent wishes of the Directors, respecting the inhabitants of their
+territories, will be followed up with corresponding energy by the
+resident Governor, the chief factors, and the traders of the Company.
+
+I mentioned in my former Narrative, that the Northern Indians had
+cherished a belief for some years, that a great change was about to take
+place in the natural order of things, and that among other advantages
+arising from it, their own condition of life was to be materially
+bettered. This story, I was now informed by Mr. Stewart, originated with
+a woman, whose history appears to me deserving of a short notice. While
+living at the N.W. Company's Post, on the Columbia River, as the wife of
+one of the Canadian servants, she formed a sudden resolution of becoming
+a warrior; and throwing aside her female dress, she clothed herself in a
+suitable manner. Having procured a gun, a bow and arrows, and a horse,
+she sallied forth to join a party of her countrymen then going to war;
+and, in her first essay, displayed so much courage as to attract general
+regard, which was so much heightened by her subsequent feats of bravery,
+that many young men put themselves under her command. Their example was
+soon generally followed, and, at length she became the principal leader
+of the tribe, under the designation of the "Manlike Woman." Being
+young, and of a delicate frame, her followers attributed her exploits to
+the possession of supernatural power, and, therefore, received whatever
+she said with implicit faith. To maintain her influence during peace,
+the lady thought proper to invent the above-mentioned prediction, which
+was quickly spread through the whole northern district. At a later
+period of her life, our heroine undertook to convey a packet of
+importance from the Company's Post on the Columbia to that in New
+Caledonia, through a tract of country which had not, at that time, been
+passed by the traders, and which was known to be infested by several
+hostile tribes. She chose for her companion another woman, whom she
+passed off as her wife. They were attacked by a party of Indians, and
+though the Manlike Woman received a wound in the breast, she
+accomplished her object, and returned to the Columbia with answers to
+the letters. When last seen by the traders, she had collected volunteers
+for another war excursion, in which she received a mortal wound. The
+faith of the Indians was shaken by her death, and soon afterwards the
+whole of the story she had invented fell into discredit.
+
+In the Athabasca department, which includes Slave Lake and Peace River,
+as well as in the more southern districts, the autumn of 1826, and the
+following winter, were unusually mild. Near the Saskatchawan River,
+there was so little snow before the middle of January, that the sledges
+could not be used; but at Bear Lake, and throughout the Mackenzie, the
+weather was severe during the same periods, and the snow came early;
+hence it would appear, that even in this climate the meteorological
+register kept at any one place, affords no index from whence we can
+judge of the season at another. In my journey from Slave Lake to the
+Athabasca we had a snow-storm for three days, which we found did not
+extend beyond sixty miles; and on our arrival at Fort Chipewyan, we
+learned there had not been a single shower during these days. The only
+coinciding circumstance, at the different stations this year, was the
+prevalence of north-east winds.
+
+[Sidenote: Sunday, 15th.] We welcomed the appearance of two of the
+large-sized swans on the 15th April, as the harbingers of spring; the
+geese followed on the 20th; the robins came on the 7th May; the house
+martins appeared on the 12th, and in the course of a week were busily
+employed repairing their nests; and the barn or forked-tail swallows
+arrived on the 20th; and on the same day, the small-sized swans were
+seen, which the traders consider the latest of the migratory birds.
+
+[Sidenote: May, 20th.] The only symptoms of reviving vegetation at this
+period, were a few anemones in flower, and the bursting of some catkins
+of willows; but we learned by an arrival of a boat from the Peace River
+that, even so early as the 14th, the trees were in full foliage at not
+more than a day's journey from the lake. The barley was sown at Fort
+Chipewyan on the 15th May, potatoes on the 21st, and the garden seeds on
+the 22d, which were expected to be ready for use by the close of the
+following September. As an experiment, whether the barley would yield a
+better crop by remaining in the ground through the winter, some had been
+sown in the preceding autumn, but only a few of the plants appeared at
+the close of this month, and the crop did not promise favourably.
+
+Some canoes having arrived on the 26th of May with the furs from Slave
+Lake, the last of the Company's brigade of boats was despatched to York
+Factory. Augustus, who was desirous of seeing Dr. Richardson again
+before his departure from the country, and two other men of the
+Expedition, embarked in them. I embarked on the 31st May in the
+Company's light canoe with Mr. Stewart and Mr. M'Vicar, having
+previously made the necessary arrangements for the passage of Captain
+Back and his party. We reached Cumberland House on the 18th June, where
+I had the happiness of meeting Dr. Richardson after a separation of
+eleven months. I learned from him that during our absence in the north,
+Mr. Drummond the Assistant Botanist had been indefatigable in collecting
+specimens of Natural History, having been sent for that purpose to the
+Rocky Mountains at the head of the Athabasca River; in the course of
+which service, he had been exposed to very great privations. To his
+perseverance and industry, science is indebted for the knowledge of
+several new and many rare quadrupeds, birds, and plants. That the reader
+may form some notion of the labour he sustained, and the zeal he
+displayed in making his very valuable and highly interesting
+collections, and to point out to the naturalist, the districts from
+whence they were brought, I subjoin his brief account of his journey in
+his own words.
+
+[Sidenote: 1825, June.] "I remained at Cumberland House about six weeks
+after the departure of Captain Back and Mr. Kendall, in June, 1825, when
+the Company's boats with the brigade of traders for the Columbia,
+arriving from York Factory, I accompanied them up the Saskatchawan River
+two hundred and sixty miles to Carlton House. The unsettled state of the
+Indians in that neighbourhood rendering excursions over the plains very
+unsafe, I determined on proceeding with the brigade as far as the Rocky
+Mountains. We left Carlton House on the 1st of September, and reached
+Edmonton, which is about four hundred miles distant on the 20th of the
+same month. Sandy plains extend without material alteration the whole
+way, and there is, consequently, little variety in the vegetation;
+indeed, I did not find a single plant that I had not seen within ten
+miles of Carlton House, although I had an opportunity of examining the
+country carefully, having performed the greater part of the journey on
+foot. After a halt of two days at Edmonton, we continued our route one
+hundred miles farther to Fort Assinaboyn on the Red Deer River, one of
+the branches of the Athapescow. This part of the journey was performed
+with horses through a swampy and thickly wooded country, and the path
+was so bad, that it was necessary to reduce the luggage as much as
+possible. I therefore took with me only one bale of paper for drying
+plants, a few shirts, and a blanket; Mr. M'Millan, one of the Company's
+chief traders, who had charge of the brigade, kindly undertaking to
+forward the rest of my baggage in the ensuing spring. [Sidenote:
+October, 2d.] We left Fort Assinaboyn to proceed up the Red Deer River
+to the Mountains, on the 2d of October; but the Canoe appointed for this
+service being very much lumbered, it was necessary that some of the
+party should travel by land, and of that number, I volunteered to be
+one. A heavy fall of snow, on the third day after setting out, rendered
+the march very fatiguing, and the country being thickly wooded and very
+swampy, our horses were rendered useless before we had travelled half
+the distance."
+
+"We reached the mountains on the 14th, and I continued to accompany the
+brigade, for fifty miles of the Portage-road, to the Columbia, when we
+met a hunter whom Mr. M'Millan hired to supply me with food during the
+winter. The same gentleman having furnished me with horses and a man to
+take care of them, I set out with the hunter and his family towards the
+Smoking River, one of the eastern branches of the Peace River, on which
+we intended to winter. [Sidenote: December.] My guide, however, loitered
+so much on the way, that the snow became too deep to admit of our
+proceeding to our destination, and we were under the necessity of
+leaving the Mountains altogether, and taking up our winter-quarters
+about the end of December, on the Baptiste, a stream which falls into
+the Red Deer River. During the journey, I collected a few specimens of
+the birds that pass the winter in the country, and which belong
+principally to the genera _tetrao_ and _strix_. I also obtained a few
+mosses, and on Christmas day, I had the pleasure of finding a very
+minute _gymnostomum_, hitherto undescribed."
+
+"In the winter, I felt the inconvenience of the want of my tent, the
+only shelter I had from the inclemency of the weather being a hut built
+of the branches of trees. Soon after reaching our wintering ground,
+provisions became very scarce, and the hunter and his family went off in
+quest of animals, taking with them the man who had charge of my horses
+to bring me a supply as soon as they could procure it. I remained alone
+for the rest of the winter, except when my man occasionally visited me
+with meat; and I found the time hang very heavy, as I had no books, and
+nothing could be done in the way of collecting specimens of Natural
+History. I took however, a walk every day in the woods to give me some
+practice in the use of snow shoes. The winter was very severe, and much
+snow fell until the end of March, when it averaged six feet in depth; in
+consequence of this, I lost one of my horses, and the two remaining ones
+became exceedingly poor. The hunter was still more unfortunate, ten of
+his young colts having died."
+
+[Sidenote: April 1826.] "In the beginning of April, 1826, setting out
+for the Columbia Portage road, I reached it after a fatiguing march on
+the sixth day, and two days afterwards, had the pleasure of meeting Mr.
+M'Millan, who brought me letters from Dr. Richardson, informing me of
+the welfare of the Expedition; and he also placed me in comparatively
+comfortable circumstances by bringing my tent, a little tea and sugar,
+and some more paper. [Sidenote: May, 6th.] I remained on the Portage
+preparing specimens of birds until the 6th of May, when the brigade from
+the Columbia arrived. On that day the _Anemone cuneifolia_, and
+_Ludoviciana_ and _Saxifraga oppositifolia_, began to flower in
+favourable situations. My hunter, who had, in the mean time, returned to
+our late wintering ground, now sent me word that he had changed his
+mind, and would not accompany me into the Mountains, as he had engaged
+to do. His fickleness deranged my plans, and I had no alternative but to
+remain with the man who had charge of the horses used on the Columbia
+Portage, and botanize in that neighbourhood."
+
+[Sidenote: August.] "On the 10th of August, I set out with another
+hunter, upon whom I had prevailed to conduct me to the Smoking River,
+although, being disappointed in a supply of ammunition, we were badly
+provided. We travelled for several days without meeting with any
+animals, and I shared the little dried provision which I had with the
+hunter's family. On the 15th we killed a Mountain sheep, which was
+quickly devoured, there not being the smallest apprehension at the time
+that famine would overtake us--day after day, however, passed away
+without a single head of game of any description being seen, and the
+children began to complain loudly; but the hunter's wife, a young
+half-breed woman, bore the abstinence with indifference, although she
+had two infant twins at the breast. On the 21st, we found two young
+porcupines, which were shared amongst the party, and two or three days
+afterwards, a few fine trout were caught. We arrived in the Smoking
+River on the 5th of September, where the hunter killed two sheep, and a
+period was put to our abstinence, for before the sheep were eaten, he
+shot several buffaloes."
+
+[Sidenote: September.] "We proceeded along the Mountains until the 24th
+of September, and had reached the head waters of the Peace River, when a
+heavy fall of snow stopped my collecting plants for that season. I was,
+however, very desirous of crossing the Mountains to obtain some
+knowledge of the vegetation on the Columbia River, and, accordingly, I
+commenced drying provisions to enable me to accompany the Columbia
+brigade, when it arrived from Hudson's Bay. [Sidenote: October.] I
+reached the Portage on the 9th of October, and on the 10th the brigade
+arrived, and I received letters from Captain Franklin, instructing me to
+descend in the spring of 1827, time enough to rejoin the Expedition on
+its way to York Factory. It was, therefore, necessary that I should
+speedily commence my return, and having gone with the brigade merely to
+the west-end of the Portage, I came back again on the 1st of November.
+The snow covered the ground too deeply to permit me to add much to my
+collections in this hasty trip over the Mountains, but it was impossible
+to avoid remarking the great superiority of climate on the western side
+of that lofty range. From the instant the descent toward the Pacific
+commences, there is a visible improvement in the growth of timber, and
+the variety of forest trees greatly increases. The few mosses that I
+gleaned in the excursion were so fine, that I could not but deeply
+regret that I was unable to pass a season or two in that interesting
+region."
+
+"Having packed up all my specimens, I embarked on the Red Deer River,
+with Mr. M'Donald, one of the Company's officers, who was returning from
+a long residence on the Columbia with his family, and continued to
+descend the stream until we were set fast by the frost. I then left Mr.
+M'Donald in the charge of the baggage, and, proceeding on foot to Fort
+Assinaboyn, for the purpose of procuring horses, I reached it on the
+fifth day. It was several days before the horses could be obtained, and
+they were several more in travelling from the Fort to Mr. M'Donald,
+during which time that gentleman and his family were very short of
+provisions. The relief, however, arrived opportunely, and they reached
+the Fort in safety. After resting a few days, I set out for Edmonton,
+where I remained for some months."
+
+[Sidenote: March.] "The winter express brought me a letter from Dr.
+Richardson, requesting me to join him at Carlton House in April, and I
+accordingly set out for that place on snow shoes, on the 17th of March,
+taking with me single specimens of all the plants gathered on the
+Mountains, lest any accident should happen to the duplicates which were
+to come by canoe in the spring. [Sidenote: April.] Two men with a sledge
+drawn by dogs accompanied me, but the Indian inhabitants of the plains
+being very hostile, we made a large circuit to avoid them, and did not
+reach Carlton House before the 5th of April. We suffered much from
+snow-blindness on the march, the dogs failed from want of food, we had
+to carry the baggage on our backs, and had nothing to eat for seven
+days. These sufferings were, however, soon forgotten in the kind welcome
+I received from Dr. Richardson, and Mr. Prudens, the Company's Chief
+Trader at Carlton, and the hospitable entertainment and good fare of the
+latter gentleman's table enabled me speedily to recruit my lost
+strength."
+
+"My collections on the Mountains amounted to about fifteen hundred
+species of plants, one hundred and fifty birds, fifty quadrupeds, and a
+considerable number of insects."
+
+[Sidenote: June.] There being yet two months in which Mr. Drummond might
+continue his researches, before Captain Back could arrive at Cumberland
+House, Dr. Richardson had left him on the Saskatchawan River.
+
+[Sidenote: 18th.] After remaining part of a day at Cumberland House, we
+proceeded on our journey, Dr. Richardson following in one of the
+Company's boats. I reached Norway House on the 24th of June, and Dr.
+Richardson on the third day after. Mr. Simpson, the resident Governor of
+the Company, was absent on urgent business at York Factory; but,
+previous to his departure, he had provided a canoe, and some additional
+men, with every other requisite for my journey. We found here Mr.
+Douglass, who had been sent to the Columbia River by the Horticultural
+Society, as a Collector of Natural History, and who had recently crossed
+the Rocky Mountains, for the purpose of proceeding to England from
+Hudson's Bay. This gentleman being desirous of occupying himself
+previous to the arrival of the ship, in making an addition to his
+collection from the neighbourhood of the Red River Colony, I felt happy
+in being able to give him a conveyance, in the canoe with Dr. Richardson
+and myself, through Lake Winipeg, to Fort Alexander, where he met
+another canoe that was going to the Colony.
+
+On quitting Norway House we took leave of our worthy companion,
+Augustus, who was to wait there until Captain Back should arrive. The
+tears which he shed at our parting, so unusual in those uncultivated
+tribes, showed the strength of his feelings, and I have no doubt, they
+proceeded from a sincere affection; an affection which, I can venture to
+say, was mutually felt by every individual. With great regret he learned
+that there was no immediate prospect of our again meeting, and he
+expressed a very strong desire to be informed, if another Expedition
+should be sent to any of the northern parts of America, whether by sea
+or land; and repeatedly assured me, that he and Ooligbuck would be ready
+at any time to quit their families and their country, to accompany any
+of their present officers, wherever the Expedition might be ordered.[16]
+
+We reached Fort Alexander on the 8th of July, and Mr. Douglass having
+left us, I was enabled to offer a passage, as far as Montreal, to
+Monsieur Picard, one of the clergymen attached to the Roman Catholic
+Mission at the Red River Colony. [Sidenote: August.] We arrived at
+Lachine, near Montreal, on the 18th of August, and were hospitably
+entertained by Mr. James Keith, Chief Factor, and Agent of the Hudson's
+Bay Company, with whom we remained five days, to settle the accounts of
+the Expedition. After I had paid my respects to his Excellency, the Earl
+of Dalhousie, Governor in Chief of Canada, we proceeded to New York by
+the way of Lake Champlain. In our passage through the United States, we
+received the same kind attentions we had before experienced; our
+personal baggage, and the collections of Natural History, were forwarded
+by the officers of the customs without examination, and every assistance
+we required was promptly rendered.
+
+[Sidenote: September.] Having embarked, in the packet ship, on the 1st
+of September, we reached Liverpool on the 26th, after an absence of two
+years, seven months and a half. Captain Back, Lieutenant Kendall, and
+Mr. Drummond, with the rest of the British party, arrived at Portsmouth
+on the 10th of October. I then received the distressing intelligence of
+the death of two excellent men, on their homeward passage from Bear Lake
+to York Factory; Archibald Stewart, who died from consumption; and
+Gustavus Aird, who was drowned in consequence of his jumping out of the
+boat, in his exertions to save her, when she was hurrying down the
+Pelican Fall, in Slave River. Until this account reached me, I had
+cherished the hope that our Expedition would have terminated without my
+having to record a single casualty. The loss of these men was the more
+deeply felt by me, from their uniform, steady, obedient, and meritorious
+conduct, which I had repeated opportunities of observing and admiring,
+while they were my companions in the Lion, during the voyage along the
+coast.
+
+I must be allowed to add, that in this long homeward journey, in which
+there were no fresh discoveries to be made, nor any of those excitements
+that relieve the monotony of constant labour, and in which they had to
+contend with a succession of dangerous rapids, there was the same
+masterly skill and exemplary conduct evinced by Captain Back and
+Lieutenant Kendall; and the same patient and ready obedience by the
+men[17], which had marked their whole conduct, while more immediately
+under my own observation.
+
+On my arrival in London, on the 29th of September, accompanied by Dr.
+Richardson, I had the honour of laying the charts and drawings before
+his Royal Highness the Lord High Admiral, and Mr. Secretary Huskisson;
+and, from the latter, I received directions to publish an account of our
+proceedings.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+In concluding this Narrative, I feel it incumbent on me to offer a few
+remarks on the subject of a _North-West Passage_, which, though it has
+not been the immediate object of the enterprises in which I have been
+engaged, is yet so intimately connected with them, as to have naturally
+excited in my mind, a strong and permanent interest. It is scarcely
+necessary to remark, that the opinion I ventured to express in my former
+work, as to the practicability of the passage[18], has been considerably
+strengthened by the information obtained during the present Expedition.
+The Northern Coast of America has now been actually surveyed from the
+meridian of 109 degrees to 149-1/2 degrees west; and again by the
+exertions of Captain Beechey, in His Majesty's ship the Blossom, from
+Icy Cape eastward to about 156 degrees west, leaving not more than fifty
+leagues of unsurveyed coast, between Point Turnagain and Icy Cape.
+Further, the delineation of the west side of Melville Peninsula, in the
+chart of Captain Parry's Second Voyage, conjoined with information which
+we obtained from the Northern Indians, fairly warrants the conclusion,
+that the coast preserves an easterly direction from Point Turnagain
+towards Repulse Bay; and that, in all probability, there are no
+insurmountable obstacles between this part of the Polar Sea and the
+extensive openings into the Atlantic, through Prince Regent Inlet and
+the Strait of the Fury and Hecla.
+
+Whenever it may be considered desirable to complete the delineation of
+the coast of the American Continent, I conceive that another attempt
+should be made to connect Point Turnagain with the important discoveries
+of Captain Parry, by renewing the Expedition which was undertaken by
+Captain Lyon, and which, but for the boisterous weather that disabled
+the Griper, must have long since repaid his well known zeal and
+enterprize with discoveries of very great interest.
+
+In considering the best means of effecting the North-West Passage in a
+ship, it has hitherto been impossible not to assent to the opinion so
+judiciously formed, and so convincingly stated, by Captain Parry, that
+the attempt should be made from the Atlantic rather than by Behring's
+Straits, because the enterprise is then commenced after a voyage of
+short duration, subject to comparatively few vicissitudes of climate,
+and with the equipments thoroughly effective. But important as these
+advantages are, they may, perhaps, be more than balanced by some
+circumstances which have been brought to light by our Expedition. The
+prevalence of north-west winds during the season that the ice is in the
+most favourable state for navigation, would greatly facilitate the
+voyage of a ship to the eastward, whilst it would be equally adverse to
+her progress in the opposite direction. It is also well known, that the
+coast westward of the Mackenzie is almost unapproachable by ships, and
+it would, therefore, be very desirable to get over that part of the
+voyage in the first season. Though we did not observe any such easterly
+current as was found by Captain Parry in the Fury and Hecla Strait, as
+well as by Captain Kotzebue, on his voyage through Behring's Straits;
+yet this may have arisen from our having been confined to the navigation
+of the flats close to the shore; but if such a current does exist
+throughout the Polar Sea, it is evident that it would materially assist
+a ship commencing the undertaking from the Pacific, and keeping in the
+deep water, which would, no doubt, be found at a moderate distance from
+the shore.
+
+The closeness and quantity of the ice in the Polar Seas vary much in
+different years; but, should it be in the same state that we found it, I
+would not recommend a ship's leaving Icy Cape earlier than the middle of
+August, for after that period the ice was not only broken up within the
+sphere of our vision, but a heavy swell rolling from the northward,
+indicated a sea unsheltered by islands, and not much encumbered by ice.
+By quitting Icy Cape at the time specified, I should confidently hope to
+reach a secure wintering place to the eastward of Cape Bathurst, in the
+direct route to the Dolphin and Union Straits, through which I should
+proceed.[19] If either, or both, of the plans which I have suggested be
+adopted, it would add to the confidence and safety of those who
+undertake them, if one or two depôts of provisions were established in
+places of ready access, through the medium of the Hudson's Bay Company.
+
+Arctic discovery has been fostered principally by Great Britain; and it
+is a subject of just pride that it has been prosecuted by her from
+motives as disinterested as they are enlightened; not from any prospect
+of immediate benefit to herself, but from a steady view to the
+acquirement of useful knowledge, and the extension of the bounds of
+science. Each succeeding attempt has added a step towards the completion
+of northern geography; and the contributions to natural history and
+science have excited a general interest throughout the civilized world.
+It is, moreover, pleasing to reflect that the loss of life which has
+occurred in the prosecution of these discoveries does not exceed the
+average number of deaths in the same population at home under
+circumstances the most favourable. And it is sincerely to be hoped that
+Great Britain will not relax her efforts until the question of a
+north-west passage has been satisfactorily set at rest, or at least
+until those portions of the northern shores of America, which are yet
+unknown, be laid down in our maps; and which with the exception of a
+small space on the Asiatic continent eastward of Shelatskoi Noss, are
+the only intervals wanting to complete the outline of Europe, Asia, and
+America.
+
+END OF THE NARRATIVE.
+
+_Summary of the Distances travelled by the Expedition, from its Landing
+in America, until its Embarkation._
+
+                                                        _Statute Miles._
+  Distance travelled in 1825, as given in page 60                  5,803
+  Dr. Richardson and Mr. Kendall's excursion on the ice to
+  the eastern parts of Bear Lake, in the Spring of 1826              359
+  Distance travelled by the Western Party in 1826
+  (given in p. 235.)                                               2,048
+  Distance travelled by the Eastern Party in 1826, after
+  its separation from the Western Party                            1,455
+  Return from Fort Franklin to New York                            4,000
+  Captain Back and Lieutenant Kendall's journey to York
+  Factory, after quitting Captain Franklin's route                   520
+                                                                  ------
+  Distance travelled by the Expedition in going and returning,
+  including the excursions of detached parties                    14,185
+                                                                  ------
+  Number of miles surveyed and laid down in the maps, but not
+  all included under the head of discoveries, because the
+  routes have been traversed by Traders                            5,000
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[15] Notwithstanding the severity of the weather, we had great
+difficulty in causing these animals to depart from their usual custom of
+sleeping in the snow, and in inducing them to occupy the warm houses
+which were built for them.
+
+[16] I have pleasure in mentioning that, by permission of Government,
+the pay which was due to Augustus and Ooligbuck, has been delivered to
+the Directors of the Hudson's Bay Company, who have undertaken to
+distribute it to them annually, in the way suited to their wants.
+
+[17] I am happy to add, that those men who had been in His Majesty's
+service before the present Expedition, have been rewarded by promotion.
+
+[18] See page 388.
+
+[19] See Dr. Richardson's opinion in favour of this route, p. 218.
+
+
+
+
+APPENDIX.
+
+TOPOGRAPHICAL AND GEOLOGICAL NOTICES, BY JOHN RICHARDSON, M.D., F.R.S.,
+&c. SURGEON AND NATURALIST TO THE EXPEDITION.
+
+[_Read before the Geological Society._]
+
+
+A very limited portion of my time could be allotted to geological
+inquiries. For eight months in the year the ground in the northern parts
+of America is covered with snow; and during the short summer, the
+prosecution of the main object of the expedition rendered the slightest
+delay in our journey unadvisable. The few hours that could be stolen
+from the necessary halts, for rest and refreshment, were principally
+occupied in the collection of objects for the illustration of botany
+and zoology. It is evident, that an account of the rock formations,
+drawn up under such circumstances, cannot be otherwise than very
+imperfect; but I have been led to publish it from the belief that, in
+the absence of more precise information, even the slightest notice of
+the rocks of the extreme northern parts of the American continent would
+be useful to those employed in developing the structure of the crust of
+the earth; the more especially, as it is not probable that the same
+tract of country will soon be trod by an expert geologist. The specimens
+of rocks I obtained have been deposited in the Museum of the Geological
+Society, and are referred to in the ensuing pages by the numbers affixed
+to them. The notices are arranged nearly in the order of the route of
+the expedition, commencing with Great Bear Lake, where our winter
+quarters were situated.
+
+
+GREAT BEAR LAKE.
+
+Great Bear Lake is an extensive sheet of water, of a very irregular
+shape, being formed by the union of five arms or bays in a common
+centre. The greatest diameter of the lake, measuring about one hundred
+and fifty geographical miles, runs from the bottom of Dease Bay, which
+receives the principal feeding stream, to the bottom of Keith Bay, from
+whence the Bear Lake River issues, and has a direction from N.E. to S.W.
+The transverse diameter has a direction from N.W. by W. to S.E. by E.,
+through Smith and M'Tavish Bays, and is upwards of one hundred and
+twenty miles in length. M'Vicar Bay, the fifth arm of the lake, is
+narrower than the others, and being a little curved at its mouth,
+appears less connected with the main body of water. The light
+bluish-coloured water of Great Bear Lake is every where transparent, and
+is particularly clear near some primitive mountains, which exist in
+M'Tavish Bay. A piece of white rag, let down there, did not disappear
+until it descended fifteen fathoms. The depth of water, in the centre of
+the lake was not ascertained; but it is known to be very considerable.
+Near the shore, in M'Tavish Bay, forty-five fathoms of line did not
+reach the bottom. Owing to the barometers supplied to the expedition
+having been broken in an early period of its progress, the height of the
+surface of Bear Lake above the Arctic Sea could not be ascertained; but
+it is, probably, short of two hundred feet.[20] If this supposition
+comes near the truth, the bottom of M'Tavish Bay is below the level of
+the sea, and towards the centre of the basin of the lake the depression
+is probably still greater. The great lakes, Huron, Michigan, and
+Superior, which discharge their waters into the St. Lawrence, are
+reported to sink three hundred feet below the level of the ocean; and
+the Lake of the Mountains, or Chipewyan Lake and Great Slave Lake,[21]
+through which the Mackenzie flows, have, it is highly probable, some
+portions of their beds below the sea level.
+
+In the autumn of 1825, I coasted the western and northern shores of the
+Great Bear Lake; and in the spring of 1826, travelled on the ice along
+its eastern and southern arms, leaving no part of its shores unexamined
+on these two surveys, except the north side of M'Tavish Bay. I did not,
+however, on these occasions, make excursions inland.
+
+
+PRIMITIVE ROCKS.--GREAT BEAR LAKE.
+
+At the south-east corner of M'Tavish Bay, primitive rocks form a hilly
+range which, at the distance of a mile or two from the shore, attains
+an elevation of eight hundred or one thousand feet. The steep face of
+the range forms the shore of the lake for fifteen miles, and perhaps
+further, on a direction from N.W. by W. to S.E. by E., and is prolonged
+on the latter bearing, at the back of the lower country lying towards
+Point Leith. The general form of the hills is obtuse-conical, in some
+instances approaching to dome-shaped. None of them rise much above the
+others, and the vallies between them are seldom wide or deep. At a
+distance, some of the masses of rock appear round-backed; and in certain
+points of view, the crest of the ridge seems to consist of mammillary
+peaks. On a nearer approach, the individual hills are found to be
+composed of rounded eminences, having summits, generally, of an oblong
+form, and consisting of smooth, naked rock. Small mural precipices are
+frequent, and many detached blocks of stone lie beneath them. Between
+the eminences, there are level spots destitute of vegetation, and
+covered with small stones or gravel not much worn. A considerable
+portion of the gravel is granite or quartz, the debris, perhaps, of the
+rocks, of which the hills consist; it contains also some pieces of
+slate, and not a few of quartzose sandstone, neither of which I observed
+_in situ_. In the course of a walk of two miles over these hills, the
+only rock I observed was granite, verging in a few places towards
+gneiss, and generally whitish, with black mica. Sometimes the felspar is
+brownish-red, and the rock not unfrequently contains disseminated
+augite? The weathered surface of the stone was every where of a
+brick-red colour. In many spots the rocks split into such thin slaty
+looking tables that they have the appearance of being stratified. The
+slaty masses are, generally, vertical; but in one hill they were
+observed dipping 80 degrees to the south-east. The direction of the
+tabular masses is mostly across the oblong summits of the hills. The
+appearances of stratification were not observed to extend through a
+whole hill, and seemed, in fact, to be confined to the more decomposable
+granites; but the naked rocks are every where traversed by smooth
+fissures. The blocks, which lie under the cliffs, have sometimes a
+tabular form, but more generally come nearer to a cube or rhomboid, and
+present one or two very even faces. Few veins were noticed. In the more
+sheltered vallies, some clumps of white or black spruce trees occur; but
+the hills are barren.
+
+The point of land which lies between M'Tavish and M'Vicar Bays has low
+shores; but five or six miles inland, an even-backed ridge rises
+gradually to the height of three or four hundred feet, and abuts
+obliquely against the primitive hills. I did not visit this ridge, and
+the snow prevented me from seeing any flat beds of rocks, if such exist
+on the shore. On one point, however, near the north end of Dease Bay,
+many large angular blocks of whitish dolomite were piled up, and I have
+little doubt of the rock existing _in situ_ in that immediate
+neighbourhood.
+
+M'Tavish Bay is forty miles long, and twenty wide, and its depth of
+water, near the eastern shore, exceeds forty-five fathoms. Some shoals
+of boulders skirt the coast near Point Leith. M'Vicar Bay is about
+seventy miles long, and from eight to twelve wide; and at the "fishery,"
+in a narrow part, not far from its bottom, its depth of water, two miles
+from the shore, is twelve fathoms. Dease Bay is equal to M'Tavish Bay in
+extent, and opens to the S.W. into the body of the lake. The high lands
+at the N.E. end, or bottom of this bay, have an even outline, and appear
+to attain an elevation of eight or nine hundred feet, at the distance of
+six or seven miles from the shore. Near its east side lie the lofty
+islands of Narrakazzæ which rise seven hundred feet above the lake.
+Dease River, the principal feeder of the lake, falls into the bottom of
+Dease Bay. It is two hundred yards wide, and from one to three fathoms
+deep near its mouth. A few miles up this river a formation of soft red
+sandstone occurs, which will be noticed hereafter.
+
+
+LIMESTONE.--GREAT BEAR LAKE.
+
+[Sidenote: 228*] At the mouth of Dease river there are hills five or six
+hundred feet high, composed principally, or entirely, of dolomite in
+horizontal strata. Some of the beds consist of a thick-slaty,
+fine-grained dolomite, containing dispersed scales of mica, which is
+most abundant on the surfaces of the slates. [Sidenote: 228] Most of the
+beds, however, consist of a thin-slaty, dull, purplish dolomite,
+traversed by veins of calc-spar. The structure of this rock is compact,
+approaching to fine granular; and some of the beds have what quarry-men
+term "clay-facings," that is, they are encrusted with a thin film of
+indurated clay.
+
+Greenstone slate? occurs in horizontal beds on the north shore, eight or
+nine miles to the westward of Dease River: and at Limestone Point,[22]
+about twenty miles from the river, a small range of hills terminates on
+the borders of the lake, in shelving, broken cliffs, about two hundred
+feet high. These cliffs consist chiefly of nearly compact light-coloured
+dolomite, interstratified with greenstone, and a brownish-red limestone,
+such as occurs in the hills at the mouth of the Dease River. In contact
+with the greenstone, there is a bed of talcose limestone, having a
+curved, slaty structure; most of the beds of dolomite are hard, and pass
+into chert.
+
+
+ALUMINOUS SHALE.--GREAT BEAR LAKE.
+
+The north shore of Bear Lake is low, and is skirted by many shoals,
+formed by boulders of limestone. No rocks, _in situ_, are exposed
+between Limestone Point and the Scented Grass Hill, a remarkable
+promontory, which separates Smith and Keith bays. Its height above the
+lake is betwixt eight and nine hundred feet, and in form and altitude it
+corresponds with the Great Bear Mountain, which, lying opposite to it,
+separates M'Vicar and Keith bays. I did not ascend either of these
+hills; but cliffs, corresponding in character to those of the aluminous
+shale-banks at Whitby, flank their bases; and the same formation
+probably extends along the north shore of Keith Bay, and some way down
+Bear Lake River. The ground skirting the Scented Grass and Great Bear
+Mountains is much broken, and consists of small, rounded and steep
+eminences, separated by narrow vallies and small lakes. Several shelving
+cliffs, about one hundred feet high, and some miles in extent are washed
+by Bear Lake. [Sidenote: 251] They consist of slate-clay and shale, more
+or less bituminous, and the dip of the strata is in several places to
+the N.W. by N. [Sidenotes: 244, 246, 247] At the foot of the Scented
+Grass Hill a rivulet has made a section to the depth of one hundred
+feet, and here the shaly beds are interstratified with thin layers of
+blackish-brown, earthy-looking swinestone, containing selenite and
+pyrites. Globular concretions of the same stone, and of a poor clay
+iron-stone, also occur in beds in the shale. [Sidenotes: 249, 250, 248]
+The surfaces of the slates were covered with an efflorescence of alum
+and sulphur. Many crystals of sulphate of iron lie at the bottom of the
+cliff, and several layers of plumose alum, half an inch thick, occur in
+the strata. At the base of Great Bear Mountain, the bituminous shale is
+interstratified with slate-clay, and I found imbedded in the former a
+single piece of brown coal, in which the fibrous structure of wood is
+apparent. Sections of slate-clay banks, and more rarely of bituminous
+shale, occur in several places on the north shore of Keith Bay. In one
+place, about seven or eight miles from Bear Lake River, a bed of plastic
+and bituminous clay occurs, and in another, near Fort Franklin, there is
+a deposit of an earthy coal, which possesses the characters of _black
+chalk_.
+
+It is probable that a magnesian limestone underlies this formation of
+bituminous shale. I have already mentioned the beds of dolomite, which
+are exposed on the north side of Bear Lake, and similar beds occur to
+the southward of the Great Bear Mountain, forming cliffs on the shores
+of M'Vicar Bay. At Manito Point, on the west side of the isthmus that
+connects Great Bear Mountain to the main shore, a low ridge of limestone
+rocks terminates on the borders of the lake, forming some bold cliffs
+and a remarkable cave. The stone has a gray colour and bituminous smell,
+and contains much interspersed calc-spar. The strata dip to the
+north-west.
+
+
+VICINITY OF FORT FRANKLIN, GREAT BEAR LAKE.
+
+Fort Franklin stands on the northern shore of Keith Bay, about four
+miles from Bear Lake River, upon a small terrace, which is elevated
+twenty-five or thirty feet above the lake. The bay, contracting towards
+the river, is about four miles wide opposite to the fort, and the depth
+of water there does not exceed four fathoms. Farther from the river, the
+east and west shores of Keith Bay recede to the distance of thirty miles
+from each other, and the depth of water in the centre of the channel
+greatly increases. The bottom of this bay, wherever it could be
+distinguished, was observed to be sandy, and thickly strewed with round
+boulders[23] of various primitive rocks of large size, which were
+particularly abundant near the river, and with large square blocks of
+limestone, most plentiful near the cape formed by the Scented Grass
+Hill. In the small bay between the fort and the river, shoals are formed
+by accumulations of boulders, and the shores are thickly strewed with
+them. [Sidenote: 261 to 308] Many of these travelled blocks consist of
+flesh-red granite, having only a small quantity of black mica, exactly
+resembling the primitive rocks seen in M'Tavish Bay, but noticed no
+where else near the lake. Boulders of the same description occur in
+shoals at the mouth of M'Tavish Bay, and on the shores which skirt the
+Scented Grass Hill which faces that bay, to all which places they may
+have been brought from the parent rock, by a current flowing from the
+east. On the northern shore of Bear Lake the great majority of the
+boulders consists of limestone. [Sidenote: 266 282] Two varieties of
+granite, which occur amongst the boulders, were recognised as being
+abundant rocks at Fort Enterprise, which is situated about one hundred
+and seventy miles south-east from M'Tavish Bay. Some of the boulders
+were of a peculiar-looking porphyry exactly resembling that which occurs
+in the height of land betwixt the Coppermine River and Dease Bay;
+several of sandstone and conglomerate, which probably came from the same
+quarter; of greenstone, perhaps, from the Copper Mountains, and of
+limestone from the northern shores of the lake, and from the isthmus of
+the Great Bear Mountain; all these places lying to the eastward or
+north-east.
+
+The soil in the immediate vicinity of Fort Franklin is sandy, or
+gravelly, and covers, to the depth of one or two feet, a bed of clay of
+unknown thickness. Gravel taken from a spot thirty feet above the
+present high-water level of the lake, and out of the reach of any stream
+or torrent, contained rounded pebbles of granite, of greenstone, of
+quartz rock, of lydian stone, and of various sandstones, of which some
+were spotted, and others presented zones of different colours. These
+sandstones form a considerable portion of the gravel.[24]
+
+The clay which lies under the soil is of a bluish-gray colour, and is
+plastic but not very tenacious. It is more or less mixed with gravel.
+During the greater part of the year it is firmly frozen; the thaw in the
+two seasons we remained there never penetrating more than twenty-one
+inches from the surface of the earth. In spots where the sandy soil is
+wanting, the clay is covered a foot deep, or more, by mosses, mostly
+_bryum palustre_, and some marsh _hypna_ and _dicrana_, in a living
+state, for they seem to be converted very slowly into peat in this
+climate.
+
+The ground rises gradually behind the fort, until it attains, at the
+distance of half a mile from the lake, the height of two hundred feet,
+forming, when viewed from the southward, an even ridge, running nearly
+east and west--which ridge is, in fact, the high bank of the lake, as it
+corresponds in height with the summit level of the banks of Bear Lake
+River, and of the southern shore of Keith Bay. The country extending to
+the northward, from the top of the bank, is nearly level, or has a very
+gentle ascent for about five miles, when a more abrupt ridge rises to
+perhaps three hundred or four hundred feet above the lake. The view from
+the summit of this second eminence is very extensive, the whole country
+as far as the eye can reach appearing to be a level, from which several
+narrow precipitous ridges of limestone arise. But, although the country
+around these ridges appears from a distance to be level, or very
+slightly undulated, yet it abounds in small eminences and steep-sided
+vallies of various shapes, some being rounded and basin-shaped, others
+long and narrow. Lakes and swamps are here so numerous, that the
+country, for at least sixty miles to the northward, is impassable in
+summer, even to the natives. There are many mounds of sand and gravel,
+and fragments of sandstone are frequent; but having travelled in this
+direction only in winter, when the ground was covered to the depth of
+upwards of three feet with snow, I had not an opportunity of examining
+its geological structure. White spruces cover the drier spots; larches,
+black spruces, and willows abound in moist places; the sandy hillocks
+are clothed with aspens, and the sides of the vallies support some canoe
+birches, with a thick undergrowth of dwarf birches, alders, and
+rose-bushes. The eminence from whence the view just described was
+obtained, appears like a ridge only in approaching it from the lake, for
+it rises very little above the general level of the country behind it.
+It has a direction from N.W. by N. to S.E. by S., and terminates about
+eight miles to the eastward of the fort, in a small bluff point on the
+shores of the lake and there the strata consist of slate-clay slightly
+bituminous. The banks immediately behind the fort also exhibit, in their
+ravines, a bluish slate-clay.
+
+The land on the south side, or bottom, of Keith Bay, presents a nearly
+similar aspect to that just described, rising, on the borders of the
+lake, to the height of one hundred and fifty feet, and then running back
+to a great distance nearly level. It may be characterized as full of
+hollows, narrow vallies, ravines, and lakes; but it is not hilly,
+although it is traversed by ridges of limestone, which rise like walls
+through the flat country. The nearest of these ridges terminates on the
+borders of the lake at the _Manito Point_, (noticed in page vii.) It may
+be proper to remark here, that, in addition to the limestone ridges
+visible from Fort Franklin, or from the heights behind it, the summit of
+Clark Hill, bearing south, and forming part of a ridge about fifty miles
+distant, was distinctly seen. This hill lies behind Old Fort Norman on
+the Mackenzie, and has more the outline of a granitic rock, although
+some of the peaks which skirt it have the serrated crests which the
+limestone ridges in this quarter show. It was guessed to be 1500 feet
+high above the Mackenzie.
+
+This sketch of the general features of the country about Fort Franklin
+being premised, the ensuing geological notices follow in the order of
+the route of the Expedition.
+
+
+BEAR LAKE RIVER--SANDSTONE, LIMESTONE.
+
+Bear Lake River is about seventy miles long, from its origin in the lake
+till it falls into the Mackenzie, and throughout its whole length, its
+breadth is never less than one hundred and fifty yards, except at the
+_Rapid_, a remarkable place, about the middle of its course. It is from
+one to three fathoms deep, and very rapid, its velocity being estimated
+at six miles in the hour. Its waters are clear as they issue from the
+lake, but several branches of considerable size bring down muddy water,
+particularly one which flows from the north, and falls in below the
+rapid.
+
+Above the rapid, the valley of the river is very narrow, the banks every
+where sloping steeply from the level of the country. Their summit line,
+which is nearly straight, is about one hundred and fifty feet above the
+bed of the river. In some places they have an even face elevated at an
+angle of about forty-five degrees, and they are not unfrequently cut by
+ravines into pretty regular figures, resembling hay-ricks, or the
+parapet of a fort, the ravines representing the embrasures. Sections
+made by the river presented generally sand or clay; the sand probably
+proceeding from the disintegration of a friable, gray sandstone, which
+showed itself occasionally in a more solid form. The rapidity of our
+voyage, however, afforded us little opportunity of searching for the
+solid strata which are generally hid by the debris of the bank. About
+twelve miles above the rapid, a small-grained, friable sandstone, of a
+yellowish gray colour, and irregular earthy fracture, is associated with
+beds of bluish-gray slate-clay. These beds consist of concretions of
+various sizes and irregular shapes, but which may be said to approach in
+general to a depressed orbicular form; their surfaces are coloured
+purplish-brown by iron, and studded with crystals of sulphate of lime.
+This slate-clay contains many small round grains of quartz, and is
+exactly similar to that which occurs at the rapid, and which will be
+afterwards noticed. In other places the banks are covered by the debris
+of a slate-clay slightly bituminous, resembling wacke in its mode of
+disintegrating.
+
+The _Rapid_ is caused by the river struggling through a chasm bounded by
+two perpendicular walls of sandstone, over an uneven bed of the same
+material. On escaping from this narrow passage, it winds round the end
+of a lofty cliff of limestone, which forms part of a ridge that is
+continued through the country on both sides of the river.
+
+Viewed from the summit of this ridge, which rises about eight hundred
+feet above the river, the country towards Bear Lake appears level. The
+view down the river presents also a plain country, bounded on the
+Mackenzie by another limestone ridge, which, unless the eye was deceived
+by the distance, gradually inclined to the one at the rapid, and
+appeared, by joining it to the northward, to form a great basin. These
+ridges are also prolonged to the southward. The plain is covered with
+wood, intersected by chains of lakes, and seemed to lie rather below the
+summit level of the banks of Bear Lake River. It is only comparatively,
+that the country deserves the name of plain, for its surface is much
+varied by depressions, ravines, and small eminences, that do not,
+however, destroy the general level appearance when seen from a distance.
+The view from the hill is terminated, to the westward, by the distant
+chain of the Rocky Mountains, running nearly N.W. by N. A little below
+the rapid, a small stream from the southward flows into the Bear Lake
+River, near whose sources the Indians procure an excellent common salt,
+which is deposited from the springs by spontaneous evaporation.
+
+The walls of the rapid are about three miles long, and 120 feet high.
+[Sidenote: 25] They are composed of horizontal beds, the lower of which
+consist of an earthy-looking stone, intermediate between slate-clay and
+sandstone, having interiorly a dull yellowish-gray colour. Concretions,
+with smooth surfaces, about the thickness of a swan's quill, pass
+perpendicularly through the beds like pins, are prolonged beyond the
+partings, and bear some resemblance to portions of the roots or branches
+of a tree. The seam surfaces are very uneven. [Sidenote: 18] These beds
+are parted by thin, slaty layers, of a stone similar in appearance, but
+rather harder, and containing many interspersed scales of mica, and also
+some minute portions of carbonaceous matter in the form of lignite.
+[Sidenotes: 19, 1827] The thin layers contain impressions of ferns, and
+from the debris at the bottom of the cliff I gathered impressions of the
+bark of a tree (lepidodendron) and some ammonites in a brown iron-shot
+sandstone.[25] [Sidenote: 18, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 26, 27, 28] The upper
+beds are composed of a fine grained, quartzose, gray sandstone, having
+an earthy basis, and occasionally interspersed carbonaceous matter. Some
+of the beds are a foot and a half thick, and have sufficient tenacity to
+be fitted for making grindstones; most of the sandstone is, however,
+rather friable. Near the summit there is interposed a bed of
+fine-grained dolomite, and a friable sandstone, which forms the crest of
+the cliff, and exhibits in its weathering battlement-shaped projections
+and pinnacles. [Sidenote: 29] Covering this sandstone, but not quite to
+the margin of the cliff, there is a layer of slaty limestone, having a
+bluish or blackish-gray colour, a dull fracture, and rather compact
+structure. [Sidenote: 30] In the lower beds of the cliff there are some
+globular and disk-shaped concretions, of an indurated iron-shot
+slate-clay, or poor clay-iron-stone, containing pyrites. They vary in
+magnitude from six inches to a foot and a half in diameter, and appear
+to be formed of concentric layers, which are rendered apparent by the
+weathering of the stone. The sandstones and shales of the rapid have a
+strong resemblance in appearance to those of the coal measures; but
+pitch-coal was not detected at this place. Several distinct concretions
+of indurated slate-clay, assuming the appearance termed _cone in cone_,
+were picked up among the boulders on the banks of Bear Lake River, some
+way below the rapid, but they were not traced to their parent beds. They
+effervesce with acids.
+
+Between the walls of the rapid and the limestone ridge there is a piece
+of meadow-ground, having a soft, clayey soil, in which, near the base of
+the hill, a small rivulet flows to join the river. The bed of this
+rivulet presents accumulations of boulders of large size, arranged so as
+to form two terraces, the upper of which is considerably above the
+highest level either of the rivulet, or of Bear Lake River. The boulders
+consist of varieties of granite, gneiss, mica-slate with garnets,
+greenstone and porphyry. [Sidenote: 50] One of the porphyries is a
+beautiful stone, composed of hyacinth-red felspar, and irregular
+crystals of milky quartz, with a few specks of a dark green mineral,
+and very much resembles a rock which is not uncommon in the gneiss
+districts about Fort Enterprize. [Sidenotes: 45, 47, 50, 51, 49] Many of
+the boulders consist of conglomerates and sandstones that strongly
+resemble those of the old red sandstone formation, which forms the
+height of land between Dease Bay and Coppermine rivers. Also some flinty
+slates, mixed, in thin layers, with compact, yellowish limestone, and
+some pebbles of jasper interleaved with flinty slate.
+
+The limestone ridge below the rapid stands on a narrow base, whose
+transverse diameter does not exceed a quarter of a mile. Its summits are
+generally conical, but very rugged and craggy; the highest peak I had an
+opportunity of visiting is about a mile from Bear Lake River, and it has
+been already stated to be estimated at eight hundred feet above that
+stream, or nine hundred and fifty above the sea. The general direction
+of the ridge is from S.E. by S. to N.W. by N., or nearly parallel to the
+great Rocky Mountain chain, and to the smaller ridges betwixt it and
+that chain. Its prolongation through the flat surrounding strata, to the
+southward of Bear Lake River, can be traced for at least forty miles,
+and it is visible at nearly an equal distance, as it runs through the
+still more level country to the northward; but here, as has been already
+said, it appears to incline towards the similar ridge which is cut by
+the Mackenzie, at the mouth of the Bear Lake River, and is about
+twenty-five miles to the W.S.W., in a direct line. That part of the
+ridge which I had an opportunity of visiting, consisted entirely of
+limestone, generally in thick beds. Its stratification was not very
+evident, and in my very cursory examination the general dip was not
+clearly ascertained. A precipitous cliff, four hundred feet high, facing
+the S.E., and washed by the Bear Lake River, presents strata, inclined
+to the S.W. at an angle of 45 degrees, which may be perhaps considered
+as the general dip; for the ridge on that side slopes down to the
+surrounding country at an angle of about 30 degrees or 40 degrees, while
+on the N.E. side it presents lofty precipices formed by the cropping out
+of the strata. [Sidenote: 39, 34] Many of the beds in this hill
+consisted of a blackish-gray fine grained limestone, intersected by
+veins of calc-spar; [Sidenotes: 40; 35, 36; 42, 43, 44] but several
+layers of gray and dark coloured dolomites, and some of a yellowish-gray
+_rauchwacke_, were interstratified with them, and the upper parts of the
+precipitous cliff, [Sidenote: 35, 36] and also of the highest peak,
+consisted of a calcareous breccia, containing rounded pieces of brown
+limestone, and angular fragments of chert; and the faces of some
+cliffs, on the N.E. side of the hill, were incrusted with a fine
+crystalline gypsum to the depth of from one to two feet.[26]
+
+The banks of Bear Lake River below the rapid have a more gentle
+declivity than those above it, and they occasionally recede from the
+stream, so as to leave a grassy slope varying from a few yards to half a
+mile in breadth. The sections of these banks by torrents present only
+sand or clay; and the hollows of the ravines are lined with boulders
+principally of primitive rocks. No stone was observed _in situ_ from the
+rapid until we came to the junction of the river with the Mackenzie.
+
+The Bear Lake River flows into the Mackenzie at a right angle, and on
+its north bank, at its mouth, there is a hill, which has been already
+noticed as forming part of a ridge visible from the one at the rapid,
+with which it probably unites to form a great basin. These two hills
+seem to belong to the same formation. [Sidenote: 61, 62, 60] The body of
+the hill consists of highly-inclined beds of blackish-gray limestone,
+with sparry veins, and of brownish-gray dolomite, which cannot be
+distinguished in hand specimens from that of the hill at the rapid. The
+superior beds are formed of a calcareous breccia.[27] [Sidenote: 57,
+58, 59, 63, 64, 65] Associated with these strata, however, there are
+beds of limestone, highly charged with bitumen; and at the base of the
+hill there are beds of bituminous shale, some of which effervesce with
+acids, whilst others approach in hardness, and other characters, to
+flinty slate. These shaly beds were seen by Captain Franklin and Mr.
+Kendall in autumn 1825, and they also saw, at that time, some
+sulphureous springs and streams of mineral pitch issuing from the lower
+parts of the limestone strata: but the whole of them were hid by the
+height of the waters of the Mackenzie in the spring of 1826.[28]
+[Sidenote: 69, 66, 67, 68] The same cause prevented me from seeing some
+beds of lignite and sandstone, at the same place, of which Captain
+Franklin obtained specimens.
+
+
+LIGNITE FORMATION.--MACKENZIE'S RIVER.
+
+Having noticed the general features of this portion of the river, I have
+next to state, that the formation constituting its banks may be
+characterized as consisting of wood-coal in various states, alternating
+with beds of pipe-clay, potter's clay, which is sometimes bituminous,
+slate-clay, gravel, sand, and friable sandstones, and occasionally with
+porcelain earth. The strata are generally horizontal, and as many as
+four beds of lignite are exposed in some parts, the upper of which are
+above the level of the highest river-floods of the present day.
+
+The _lignite_, when recently detached from the beds, is pretty compact,
+but soon splits into rhomboidal pieces, which again separate into slates
+more or less fine. It burns with a very fetid smell, somewhat resembling
+that of phosphorus, with little smoke or flame, leaving a brownish-red
+ash, not one-tenth of the original bulk of the coal. The blacksmith
+found it unfit for welding iron when used alone, but it answered when
+mixed with charcoal, although the stench it created was a great
+annoyance. [Sidenote: 48] Different beds, and even different parts of
+the same bed, presented specimens of the fibrous brown-coal, earth-coal,
+conchoidal brown-coal, and trapezoidal brown-coal of Jameson. Some of
+the pieces have the external appearance of compact bitumen, but they
+generally exhibit, in the cross fracture, the fibrous structure of wood
+in concentric layers, apparently much compressed. Other specimens have a
+strong external resemblance to charcoal in structure, colour, and
+lustre. A frequent form of the lignite is that of slate, of a dull,
+brownish-black colour, but yielding a shining streak. The slate is
+composed of fragments, resembling charred wood, united together by a
+paste of more comminuted woody matter, mixed, perhaps, with a small
+portion of clay. In the paste there are some transparent crystals of
+sulphate of lime, and occasionally some minute portions of a substance
+like resin. These shaly beds bear a strong resemblance to peat, not only
+in structure but also in the mode of burning, and in the light whitish
+ashes which are left. The external shape of stems or branches of trees,
+is best preserved in some fragments impregnated with slate-clay, and
+occasionally with siliceous matter, which occur imbedded in the coal.
+The bark of these pieces has been converted into lignite. Some of them
+exhibit knots, such as occur where a branch has decayed, and others
+represent the twists and contortions of wood of stunted growth. The
+lignite is generally penetrated by fibrous roots, probably
+_rhizomorpha_, which insinuate their ramifications into every crevice.
+
+The beds of lignite appear to take fire spontaneously when exposed to
+the atmosphere. They were burning when Sir Alexander Mackenzie passed
+down the river in 1789, and have been on fire, in some part or other of
+the formation, ever since. In consequence of the destruction of the
+coal, large slips of the bank take place, and it is only where the
+debris has been washed away by the river that good sections are visible.
+The beds were on fire when we visited them, and the burnt clays,
+vitrified sand, agglutinated gravel, &c. gave many spots the appearance
+of an old brick-field.
+
+[Sidenote: 81] The _gravel_ interstratified with the lignite, consists
+of smooth pebbles of Lydian stone, of flinty slate, of white quartz, of
+quartzose sandstone, and conglomerate, like the sandstones and
+conglomerates of the old red sandstone formation, of claystone, and of
+slate-clay, varying in size from a pea to that of an orange. The gravel
+is often intermixed with a little clay, which gives the bed sufficient
+tenacity to form cliffs, but does not prevent the pebbles from
+separating, in the attempt to break off hand specimens. It is seamed by
+thin layers of fine sand: beds of sandstone are of occasional
+occurrence.
+
+_Potter's clay_ occurs in thick beds, has generally a gray or brown
+colour, and passes, in some places, into a highly bituminous thick-slaty
+clay, penetrated by ramifications of carbonaceous matter resembling the
+roots of vegetables.
+
+The _pipe-clay_ is deserving of particular notice. It is found in beds
+from six inches to a foot thick, and mostly in contact with the lignite.
+It has commonly a yellowish-white colour, but in some places its hue is
+light lake-red. The natives use it as an article of food in times of
+scarcity and it is said to have sustained life for a considerable time.
+It is termed _white mud_ by the traders, who whitewash their houses with
+it. It occurs also in lignite deposits on the upper branches of the
+Saskatchewan, and is associated with bituminous shale on the coast of
+the Arctic Sea. Mr. Nuttall mentions a similar substance, under the name
+of pink-clay, as being found in the lignite deposits on the Arkansa.[29]
+
+The _porcelain earth_ was observed only at one place where the beds were
+highly inclined, and there it appeared to replace the sandstones of
+other parts of the deposit. It has a whitish colour, and the appearance,
+at first sight, of chalk; but some of its beds, from the quantity of
+carbonaceous matter interspersed through them, having a grayish hue. Its
+beds are from two to three yards thick.
+
+In a note[30] I have mentioned the most remarkable sections of this
+formation which occur on the banks of the Mackenzie. The depth of the
+formation was not ascertained, but the sections will show the thickness
+of the beds which were exposed. The height above the sea of the summit
+of the banks it forms on the Mackenzie, was estimated to be from two
+hundred and fifty to three hundred feet.
+
+
+NOTICES OF OTHER LIGNITE FORMATIONS.
+
+Similar formations of lignite occur near the foot of the Rocky Mountain
+range farther to the southward; but I have not, after many inquiries,
+heard of any traces of them in the eastern parts of the Hudson's Bay
+lands. Sir Alexander Mackenzie, after describing the general course of
+the Rocky Mountains, says that "along their eastern edge, there occurs a
+narrow strip of marshy, boggy, and uneven ground, which produces coal
+and bitumen;" and that "he saw these on the banks of the Mackenzie in
+lat. 66 degrees, and, in his second journey, on the Peace River, in lat.
+56 degrees and 146 degrees W. long.;" and further, that "the same was
+observed by Mr. Fidler, on the south branch of the Saskatchewan, in lat.
+52 degrees long. 112-1/2 degrees W." Mr. Alexander Stewart, an
+intelligent chief factor of the Hudson's Bay Company, and well
+acquainted with those countries, informs me that there are beds of coal
+on fire, on the Smoking River, or east branch of the Peace River, and on
+the upper parts of the _Rivière la biche_, or Elk River; and that coal,
+although not on fire, occurs at Lesser Slave Lake, on a line with the
+other two localities. Mr. Small, a clerk to the Hudson's Bay Company,
+likewise acquaints me, that coal occurs at Edmonton, on the north branch
+of the Saskatchewan, in beds, sometimes seven or eight feet thick. Most
+of the coal is thin-slaty; but some beds yield shining, thick lumps,
+which break, as he expresses it, like Spanish liquorice. It lies over
+beds of bluish-gray sandstone, and is associated with a white clay,
+which froths in water and adheres to the fingers.
+
+Mr. Drummond brought specimens from the spot which Mr. Small alludes to
+and remarks, that the lignite occurs in beds from six inches to two feet
+thick, separated by clay and sandstones. [Sidenote: 1051, 1052, 1053]
+His specimens of the lignite are precisely similar to the slaty and
+conchoidal varieties, which occur at the mouth of the Bear Lake River;
+[Sidenote: 1055] and there is an equal resemblance betwixt the
+sandstones from the two places. [Sidenote: 1053] The slaty beds of
+lignite, at Edmonton, pass into a thin, slaty, friable sandstone, much
+impregnated by carbonaceous matter, and containing pieces of fibrous
+lignite. [Sidenote: 1056, 1062] In the neighbourhood of the lignite
+there are some beds of rather indurated, but highly bituminous shale,
+and the clayey banks contain clay-iron stones, in form of septaria. Mr.
+Drummond likewise found beds of a beautiful bituminous coal, which
+Professor Buckland, from its peculiar fracture, considers to be tertiary
+pitch-coal. [Sidenote: 1058, 1059, 1060] The banks of the Saskatchewan,
+near the same place, exhibit beds of a very compact stone, having a
+brown colour, and inclosing many fragments of bituminous limestone and
+some organic remains; likewise beds of a somewhat similar stone, but
+full of drusy cavities, and more resembling a recent calcareous tufa. I
+could not learn how far these beds were connected with the lignite
+deposit.
+
+Captain Franklin[31] saw beds of lignite and tertiary pitch-coal at
+Garry's Island, off the mouth of the Mackenzie, and there is an
+extensive deposit of it near the Babbage River, on the coast of the
+Arctic Sea, opposite to the termination of the Richardson chain of the
+Rocky Mountains.
+
+
+MACKENZIE RIVER FROM SLAVE LAKE TO THE BASE OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS.
+
+Having now described the strata in Bear Lake River, together with the
+exposed beds of the lignite at its mouth, as far as opportunities of
+observation enable me, and also added a slight account of similar
+formations which occupy a like situation at the foot of the Rocky
+Mountain range, were I to adapt the order of my notices strictly to the
+route of the expedition, I should next describe the banks of the
+Mackenzie from the junction of the Bear Lake River downwards to the
+Arctic Sea. It seems, however, more advisable to commence at the origin
+of the Mackenzie, in Great Slave Lake, and give as connected a view as I
+can of the principal geological features of that great river.
+
+The west end of Slave Lake is bounded by horizontal strata of a
+limestone, whose characters shall be afterwards given in detail; and I
+have merely to remark, at present, that it forms flat shores, which are
+skirted by shoals of boulders of limestone, and of primitive rocks. Much
+drift timber is accumulated in the small bays at this end of the lake,
+which, in process of time, is converted into a substance like peat. A
+chain of islands extends obliquely across the lake at the origin of the
+river, or where the current is first felt; and the depth of the water
+there is less than six feet. Below this, there is a dilatation termed
+the _first little lake_, and the river afterwards contracts to less than
+a mile in breadth; forming in one place, when the water is low, a strong
+rapid. A second dilatation, about twenty-five miles below the first, is
+termed the _second little lake_. The shores throughout this distance are
+generally flat and covered with boulders of limestone, compact felspar,
+granite, gneiss, and sienite, and there are many of these stones
+imbedded in a tenacious clay, which forms the beach. A ridge, having an
+even outline, and apparently of small elevation, commences behind Stony
+Point, in Slave Lake, some distance inland, and, running nearly parallel
+to the river, disappears about Fishing River, a stream which joins the
+Mackenzie, below the Second Little Lake. The Horn Mountains, a ridge of
+hills, of considerably greater elevation, and having a more varied
+outline than that on the south shore, are first visible on the north
+side of the Second Little Lake, and continue in sight nearly as far as
+the junction of the "River of the Mountains," or "Forks, of the
+Mackenzie," as the traders term the union of the two rivers. [Sidenote:
+120, 121] The only rocks seen _in situ_ between Slave Lake and the
+Forks, were a bituminous shale of a brownish-black colour, in thin
+slates, and a slate-clay of a pure yellowish-gray colour, which, as well
+as the bituminous shale, forms steep banks.
+
+
+ROCKY MOUNTAINS.
+
+About twenty-five or thirty miles below the forks, the first view is
+obtained of the Rocky Mountains, which there appear to consist of
+short-conical peaks, scarcely rising two thousand feet above the river.
+Some distance lower down, the river, changing its course from W.N.W. to
+N.N.E., turns sharply round the mountains, which are there disposed in
+ridges, having bases from one to two miles wide, and a direction of
+S.S.W. or S.W. by S. being nearly at right angles to the general course
+of the great range to which they belong. The eastern sides of the ridges
+present a succession of wall-sided precipices, having beneath them
+shelving acclivities formed by debris, and exhibiting on their faces
+regular lines of stratification. The western sides of the ridges are of
+more easy ascent. The vallies which separate these ridges and open
+successively to the river, are narrow, with pretty level bottoms, but
+very steep sides well clothed with trees. In the first ridge, the strata
+seemed to dip to the northward at an angle of 35 degrees. In some of the
+others they were horizontal, or had a southerly dip. The third ridge
+presents, when viewed from the westward, a magnificent precipice,
+seemingly about one thousand two hundred feet high, and which extends
+for at least fifteen miles. After passing this ridge, the river
+inclines to the eastward, and the forms of the hills are less distinctly
+seen.
+
+As I could not visit the Rocky Mountains, I know nothing of their
+structure except from report. An interpreter in the Hudson's Bay
+Company's service, who had travelled over them, informed me that there
+are fourteen or fifteen ridges, of which the three easternmost are the
+most rugged, those that succeed being broader and more rounded.
+[Sidenote: 122] This man gave me a specimen of a pearl-gray semi-opal,
+resembling obsidian, brought from the third or fourth ridge. The
+natives, by means of fire, cause this stone to break off in thin, flat,
+conchoidal fragments, with which they form arrow-heads and knives. The
+thin pieces are nearly transparent on the edges. [Sidenote: 123] He also
+gave me a specimen of plumbago, from the same quarter, and some specular
+iron.
+
+Mr. Macpherson, of the Hudson's Bay Company, in a letter respecting the
+Rocky Mountains, near _Fort au Liard_, on the River of the Mountains, or
+south branch of the Mackenzie, informs me, that "these mountains may be
+traced into somewhat uniform ranges, extending north-westerly and
+south-easterly, nearly parallel with the River of the Mountains, and are
+in appearance confusedly scattered and broken, rising here and there
+into high peaks." [Sidenote: 124, 125] This gentleman had the kindness
+to send me specimens of a cherty rock, some of which, he states, were
+from the third range westward from the river, and others from a spur
+which projects in a southern direction from the fourth range, and rises
+about six hundred feet above the adjacent valley. These specimens cannot
+be distinguished from those of Limestone Point, on the north shore of
+Great Bear Lake[32], Mounts Fitton and Conybeare, two remarkable peaks
+which terminate the Eastern range of the Rocky Mountains on the shores
+of the Arctic sea, were found by Captain Franklin to consist of
+transition rocks, of which an account is given in the subjoined
+note.[33]
+
+Sir Alexander Mackenzie, towards the conclusion of the interesting
+narrative of his voyages, says, of the Rocky Mountain range, "The last
+line of division is, the immense ridge, or succession of ridges of the
+stony mountains, whose northern extremity dips in the Arctic Sea in
+latitude 70 degrees north, and longitude 135 degrees west, running
+nearly south-east, and begins to be parallel to the coast of the Pacific
+ocean from Cook's inlet, and so onwards to the Columbia. From thence it
+appears to quit the coast, but still continuing with less elevation to
+divide the waters of the Atlantic from those of the Pacific. In these
+snow-clad mountains rises the Mississippi, if we admit the Missouri to
+be its source, which flows into the Gulph of Mexico; the river Nelson
+which is lost in Hudson's Bay; Mackenzie's river that discharges itself
+into the North Sea, and the Columbia emptying itself into the Pacific
+Ocean. The breadth of the mountains from Cook's inlet to the Columbia is
+from four to eight degrees easterly." I may add, that the great rivers
+mentioned by Mackenzie not only take their origin from the same range of
+mountains, but almost from the same hill; the head waters of the
+Columbia and Mackenzie being only about two hundred yards apart in
+latitude 54-1/2 degrees. Mr. Drummond, who crossed the mountains at that
+place, informs me, that the Eastern side of the range consists of
+conglomerate and sandstone, to which succeed limestone hills exceedingly
+barren, and afterwards clay-slate and granite.
+
+James, the intelligent naturalist, who accompanied Major Long on his
+first expedition, says of the Rocky Mountains to the southward of the
+Missouri, "They rise abruptly out of the plains which lie extended at
+their base on the east side, towering into peaks of great height, which
+renders them visible at the distance of more than one hundred miles from
+their base. They consist of ridges, knobs, and peaks, variously
+disposed, among which are interspersed many broad and fertile valleys.
+James's peak, one of the more elevated, was ascertained by
+trigonometrical measurement to rise 8500 feet above the common level.
+The rocky formations are uniformly of a primitive character, but a deep
+crust of secondary rocks appears to recline on the east side of the
+mountains, extending upwards from their base many hundred feet." In
+another place, he says, "The woodless plain is terminated by a range of
+naked and almost perpendicular rocks, visible at the distance of several
+miles, and resembling a vast wall parallel to the base of the mountain.
+These rocks are sandstone, and rise abruptly to an elevation of one
+hundred and fifty or two hundred feet." The sandstone walls seem to
+present an appearance not very dissimilar to some of the cliffs seen
+from the Mackenzie.
+
+Having thus mentioned as briefly as I could the extent of the
+information I was able to collect, respecting the Rocky Mountain range,
+I may remark, that a formation of primitive rocks, but little elevated
+above the general level of the country, appears to run from near the
+west end of Lake Superior, gradually and slightly converging towards the
+Rocky Mountains, until it attains the east side of Great Bear Lake. In
+lat. 50 degrees, the two ranges are nearly seven hundred miles apart,
+and there, and as far as lat. 60 degrees, the space between them is
+principally occupied by horizontal strata of limestone. There is also
+much limestone in the narrower interval north of 60 degrees, but the
+strata are more inclined, and form abrupt hills and ridges, particularly
+about lat. 66 degrees, where the primitive rocks on the east of Bear
+Lake are within two hundred miles of the Rocky Mountains. Sir Alexander
+Mackenzie has noticed that a chain of great lakes skirts this eastern
+range of primitive rocks, where they are approached by the flat
+limestone strata which lie to west of them. Thus the primitive rocks
+bound Great Slave Lake to the eastward of Slave River, and the flat
+limestone strata occupy the country westward of that lake, as has been
+already mentioned.
+
+After this digression, which seemed necessary for the purpose of giving
+a general idea of the structure of the country, I return to the
+description of the banks of the Mackenzie.
+
+
+MACKENZIE RIVER FROM THE FIRST SIGHT OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS TO BEAR LAKE
+RIVER.
+
+At the sharp turn of the river round the Rocky Mountains, its east bank
+swells gently into a hill several feet high. Below this the banks are
+broken into conical masses by ravines, and present a finely variegated
+outline. A pretty high ridge, looking like a continuation of the Horn
+Mountains, is visible on the east side some distance inland. Opposite to
+the Big Island there is a green hill three or four hundred feet high,
+which, as we descended the river, showed itself to be part of a range
+that had a direction apparently to the N.N.W., and towards its northern
+end became more rugged and craggy, exhibiting cliffs and rude
+embrasures, at the same time increasing in height to eight hundred or
+one thousand feet. The boulders on the beach change their character
+considerably about this place. Farther up, the yellowish-white limestone
+which occurs in Slave Lake formed a great portion of them; but here a
+greenish-gray, and rather dark-coloured, compact limestone, with a flat
+conchoidal fracture, replaces it. Variegated-sandstone, and some
+purplish, felspathose-sandstone, or compact felspar, also occur pretty
+frequently, together with slaty limestone, bituminous-shale,
+lydian-stone, pitchstone-porphyry, and various sienites, granites, and
+greenstones, almost all porphyritic.
+
+The Rock by the river's side presents the first solid strata that occur
+on the immediate banks of the river after passing the Forks. It is a
+round bluff hill about five hundred feet high, with a short
+obtuse-conical summit. A precipice three hundred feet high, washed by
+the river, is composed of strata of limestone, dipping N.W. by W. at an
+angle of 70 degrees; but the strata in other parts of the hill have in
+appearance the saddle-formed arrangement. [Sidenote: 127] The limestone
+is of a blackish-gray colour, slightly crystalline structure, and much
+resembles the stone of the principal beds in the hills at the rapid and
+mouth of Bear Lake River. Its beds are from one to two feet thick, and
+much intersected by small veins of calc-spar. There are also some larger
+veins a foot and a half thick, which traverse the strata obliquely,
+having their sides lined with calc-spar, and their centres filled with
+transparent gypsum. [Sidenote: 128] I observed a small imbedded pebble
+of white sandstone in the gypsum. [Sidenote: 127] Some of the beds of
+limestone consist of angular distinct concretions. [Sidenotes: 131, 132]
+A small island lying off this rock, having its strata dipping south at
+an angle of 20 degrees, presents a bed a foot thick, entirely composed
+of these angular concretions, covered by a thin-slaty limestone, and
+reposing on thicker beds, all of which are dark-coloured. No organic
+remains were observed.
+
+A few miles below the "Rock by the river side," a very rugged ridge
+appears on the eastern bank. It has sharp craggy summits, and is about
+five or six hundred feet high. For nearly sixty miles below this place
+the river continues about eight hundred yards wide, bounded by banks
+chiefly of clay; but in some places of a clayey shale having a bluish
+colour. The banks are in many places one hundred and fifty feet high,
+with a beach beneath covered with boulders. A little above the site of
+the Old Fort Norman the river dilates, and is full of islands; and a
+short way inland, on the east side, stands Clark's Hill, which is
+visible from Fort Franklin, and is supposed to be near 1500 feet high.
+It is shaped somewhat like the amphibolic-granite mountain of Criffel in
+Galloway, and in its immediate neighbourhood there are some less lofty,
+but very rugged and precipitous hills, resembling in outline the ridges
+of limestone on Bear Lake River. From this place to the commencement of
+the lignite formation, already described, the banks of the Mackenzie are
+high and clayey.
+
+
+MACKENZIE RIVER FROM BEAR LAKE RIVER TO THE NARROWS.
+
+Below Bear Lake River the general course of the Mackenzie for eighty
+miles is about N.W. by W., when a remarkable rapid is produced by ledges
+of stone which cross its channel. The width of the river varies in this
+distance from one to three miles, but the water-course is narrowed by
+numerous islands, and the current continues strong. The Rocky Mountains
+are visible, running in a direction from S.E. to N.W. Judging merely by
+the eye, we did not estimate their altitude above four thousand feet,
+and I may remark, that the snow disappears from their summits early in
+the summer. A back view of the hill at the mouth of Bear Lake River is
+also obtained for upwards of twenty miles, but the ridge of which it
+forms a part curves inland, probably uniting, as was formerly remarked,
+with the one which crosses Bear Lake River near the middle of its
+course. The banks of the Mackenzie are in general from one hundred and
+twenty to one hundred and fifty feet high in this part, and there are
+occasional sections of them, but we had little leisure to examine their
+structure. In the voyage of 1826 we drifted down the stream night and
+day, landing only when necessary to cook our provisions; and in the
+following geological notices, as far as the passage of the river named
+the _Narrows_, I have done little more than describe the specimens
+collected by Captain Franklin, when he ascended the river by the
+tow-line in 1825. The few notes that the rapidity of our voyage
+permitted me to make, as to the direction of the strata, &c., were
+inserted in the book that was purloined by the Esquimaux at the mouth of
+the river.
+
+About fifty miles below Bear Lake River there is an almost precipitous
+cliff of bituminous-shale, one hundred and twenty feet high, strongly
+resembling the cliffs which occur near the bases of the hill of
+Scented-Grass and Great Bear Mountain in Bear Lake already
+described[34], and at the mouth of the Clear Water River in lat. 56-1/2
+degrees. In the two former localities the shale is in the neighbourhood
+of horizontal strata of limestone; and in the latter it actually reposes
+on the limestone, which extends in horizontal strata as far as Great
+Slave Lake, is connected with many salt springs, and possesses many of
+the characters ascribed to the zechstein formation. [Sidenote: 133]
+Captain Franklin observed the beach under the shale cliffs of the
+Mackenzie to be strewed not only with fragments of the shale, but also
+with much lignite, similar to that which occurs at the mouth of the Bear
+Lake River. Twelve or fourteen miles below these cliffs there is a reach
+seventeen or eighteen miles long, bounded by walls of sandstone in
+horizontal beds. [Sidenotes: 134, 135] Specimens obtained by Captain
+Franklin at the upper end of the reach consist of fine-grained quartzose
+sandstone[35] of a gray colour, and having a clayey basis, resembling
+those which occur in the middle of Bear Lake River. At the commencement
+of the "Great Rapid of the Mackenzie" there is a hill on each side of
+the river, named by Captain Franklin the eastern[36] and Western
+mountains of the Rapid. The Rocky Mountains appear at no great distance
+from this place, running about N.W. by W., until lost to the sight; and
+as the Mackenzie for forty or fifty miles below, winds away to the
+northward, and, in some reaches, a little to the eastward, they are not
+again visible, until the river has made a bend to the westward, and
+emerges from the defile termed "the Narrows."
+
+The "Eastern mountain of the rapid" seems to have a similar structure,
+with the "Hill by the River's side," the hill at the mouth of Bear Lake
+River, and the other limestone ridges which traverse this part of the
+country. [Sidenote: 136] From some highly inclined beds near its base I
+broke off specimens of a limestone, having an imperfectly crystalline
+structure, and a brown colour, which deepens into dull black on the
+surfaces of its natural seams. [Sidenotes: 137, 138, 139, 141] A piece
+of dark-gray, compact limestone, having the peculiar structure to which
+the name of "_cone in cone_" has been given, was found on the beach;
+also several pieces of chert, and some fragments of a trap-rock,
+consisting of pieces of greenstone, more or less iron-shot, cemented by
+calc-spar.
+
+Immediately below the rapid there are horizontal layers of sandstone
+which form cliffs, and also the bed of the river. Captain Franklin
+obtained specimens of this stone, which do not differ from the
+sandstones above the rapid. [Sidenote 142, 143, 140] And amongst the
+debris of the cliff he found other specimens of the "_cone in cone_,"
+such as it occurs in the clayey beds of the coal measures, and also some
+pieces of crystallized pyrites.
+
+[Sidenote: 144, 144a, 145, 146, 147, 144b] About forty miles below the
+rapid, the river flows through a narrow defile formed by the approach of
+two lofty banks of limestone in highly-inclined strata, above which
+there is a dilatation of the river, bounded by the walls of sandstone,
+which have weathered, in many places, into pillars, castellated forms,
+caves, &c. The sandstone strata are horizontal, have slate-clay
+partings, and seams of a poor clay-iron stone, but do not differ in
+general appearance from the sandstone beds at the rapid, except that a
+marly stone containing corallines, and having the general colour and
+aspect of the sandstone beds, is associated with them at this place.
+
+The very remarkable defile, below these sandstone beds, is designated
+"the _second rapid_" by Sir Alexander Mackenzie, and "the _ramparts_" by
+the traders, a name adopted by Captain Franklin. Mackenzie states it to
+be three hundred yards wide, three miles long, and to have fifty fathoms
+depth of water. If he is correct in his soundings, its bed is probably
+two hundred and fifty feet below the level of the sea. The walls of the
+defile rise from eighty to one hundred and fifty feet above the river,
+and the strata are inclined to the W.N.W., at an angle of seventy or
+eighty degrees. It is worthy of remark, that the course of the river
+through this chasm is E.N.E., and that just above the eastern mountain
+of the rapid it runs about W.S.W. through the sandstone strata, as if it
+had found natural rents by which to make its escape through the ridge of
+hills which cross its course here. Similar elbows occur in various parts
+of the River, and they may be almost always traced to some peculiarity
+in the disposition of the hills which traverse the country.
+
+Captain Franklin gathered many specimens of the limestone strata of the
+Ramparts, which are specified in a note.[37] [Sidenote: 148, 149] Some
+of the beds at the upper part of the Ramparts consist of a granular
+foliated limestone, which was not noticed elsewhere on the banks of the
+river, but the greater part are of limestone, strongly resembling that
+which has been already described, as forming the ridges in this quarter.
+Most of the beds are impregnated wholly, or in patches, with bitumen.
+Some of these specimens contain corallines and terebratulæ; and at the
+lower end of the defile there are horizontal strata of limestone,
+covered by a thin layer of flinty slate.
+
+Below the _ramparts_ the river expands to the width of two miles, and
+for a reach or two its banks are less elevated. In lat. 66-3/4 degrees,
+about thirty miles from the ramparts, there are cliffs which Captain
+Franklin in his notes, remarks, "run on an E. by S. course for four
+miles, are almost perpendicular, about one hundred and sixty feet high,
+and present the same castellated appearances that are exhibited by the
+sandstone above the defile of the "ramparts." [Sidenote: 159, 160, 161,
+162] The cliffs[38] are, in fact, composed of sandstones similar, in
+general appearance, to those which occur higher up the river; but some
+of the beds contain the quartz in coarser grains, with little or no
+cement. [Sidenote: 163, 164, 165, 166] The beds are horizontal, and
+repose on horizontal limestone,[39] from which Captain Franklin broke
+many specimens in 1825. [Sidenote: 167, 168, 169, 170] We landed at this
+place in 1826 to see the junction of the two rocks, but the limestone
+was concealed by the high waters of the river. Captain Franklin's
+specimens are full of shells, many of which are identical with those of
+the flat limestone strata of the Athabasca River. [Sidenote: 171] One
+bed appears to be almost entirely composed of a fine large species of
+terebratula, not yet described, but of which Mr. Sowerby has a specimen
+from the carboniferous limestone of Neho, in Norway. Some of the beds
+contain the shells in fragments; in others, the shells are very entire.
+
+About forty miles below these sandstone walls the banks of the river are
+composed of marl-slate, which weathers so readily, that it forms
+shelving acclivities. [Sidenote: 172] In one reach the soft strata are
+cut by ravines into very regular forms, resembling piles of cannon shot
+in an arsenal, whence it was named _Shot-reach_.
+
+The river makes a short turn to the north below Shot Reach, and a more
+considerable one to the westward, in passing the present site of Fort
+Good Hope. The banks in that neighbourhood are mostly of clay, but beds
+of sandstone occasionally show themselves. The Indians travel from Fort
+Good Hope nearly due north, reach the summit of a ridge of land on the
+first night, and from thence following the course of a small stream they
+are conducted to the river _Inconnu_, and on the evening of the 4th day
+they reach the shores of Esquimaux Lake. Its water is brackish, the tide
+flowing into it. The neck of land which the Indians cross from Fort Good
+Hope is termed "isthmus" on Arrowsmith's map, from Mackenzie's
+information; and its breadth, from the known rate at which the Indians
+are accustomed to travel, cannot exceed sixty miles. The ridge is named
+the Carreboeuf, or Rein-deer Hills, and runs to lat. 69 degrees, forming
+a peninsula between the eastern channel of the Mackenzie and Esquimaux
+Lake.
+
+A small stream flows into the Mackenzie some way below Fort Good Hope,
+on the banks of which, according to Sir Alexander Mackenzie, the Indians
+and Esquimaux collect flints. He describes these banks as composed of "a
+high, steep, and soft rock, variegated with red, green, and yellow hues;
+and that, from the continual dripping of the water, parts of it
+frequently fall, and break into small, stony flakes, like slate, but not
+so hard. Amongst these are found pieces of petroleum, which bears a
+resemblance to yellow wax, but is more pliable." The flint he speaks of
+is most probably flinty-slate; but I do not know what the yellow
+petroleum is, unless it be the variety of alum, named rock-butter, which
+was observed in other situations, forming thin layers in bituminous
+shale.
+
+About twenty miles below Fort Good Hope there are some sandstone
+cliffs,[40] which Captain Franklin examined in 1825. [Sidenote: 173,
+174] The sandstones are similar to those occurring higher up the river,
+but some of the beds contain small pieces of bituminous shale; and they
+are interstratified with thin layers of flinty-slate, and of
+flinty-state passing into bituminous shale. [Sidenote: 175, 176] The
+flinty-slate contains iron pyrites, and its layers are covered with a
+sulphureous efflorescence. Some of the beds pass into a slate-clay,
+which contains vegetable impressions, and some veins of clay-iron stone
+also appear in the cliff.
+
+Sixty miles below Fort Good Hope the river turns to the northward, and
+makes a sharp elbow betwixt walls of sandstone eighty or ninety feet
+high, which continue for fifteen or twenty miles. Captain Franklin named
+this passage of the river "The Narrows."[41] [Sidenotes: 178, 179] The
+sandstones of the _Narrows_ lie in horizontal beds, and have generally a
+dark gray colour. [Sidenotes: 180, 181, 182] They are parted by thin
+slaty beds of sandstone, containing small pieces apparently of
+bituminous coal, and some casts of vegetables. [Sidenote: 183] Most of
+the beds contain scales of mica, and some of them have nodules of
+indurated iron-shot clay which exhibit obscure impressions of shells. A
+bed of imperfectly crystalline limestone was seen by Captain Franklin
+underlying the sandstones.
+
+
+MACKENZIE RIVER BELOW "THE NARROWS."
+
+The Mackenzie, on emerging from the Narrows, separates into many
+branches, which flow to the sea through alluvial or diluvial deltas and
+islands. The Rocky Mountains are seen on the western bank of the river,
+forming the boundary of those low lands; and the lower, but decided
+ridge, of the Rein-deer Hills holds nearly a parallel course on the east
+bank. The estuary lying between these two ranges, opens to the N.W. by
+N. into the Arctic Sea. I have already mentioned the specimens of rocks
+obtained at the few points of the Rocky Mountains that were visited,[42]
+and therefore shall now speak only of the Rein-deer Hills. We did not
+approach them until we had passed for thirty miles down a branch of the
+river which winds through alluvial lands. At this place there are
+several conical hills about two hundred feet high, which appeared to
+consist of limestone. Specimens taken from some slightly-inclined beds
+near their bases, consisted of a fine-grained, dark, bluish-gray
+limestone. After passing these limestone rocks, the Rein-deer Hills were
+pretty uniform in appearance, having a steep acclivity with rounded
+summits. Their height, on the borders of the river, is about four
+hundred feet, but a mile or two inland they attain an elevation of
+perhaps two hundred feet more. Their sides are deeply covered with sand
+and clay, arising most probably from the disintegration of the subjacent
+rocks. [Sidenote: 184, 185] A section made by a torrent, showed the
+summit of one of the hills to be formed of gray slate-clay, its middle
+of friable gray sandstone much iron-shot, and its base of dark
+bluish-gray slaty clay. The sandstone predominates in some parts of the
+range, forming small cliffs, underneath which there are steep
+acclivities of sand. It contains nearly an equal quantity of black
+flinty slate, or lydian stone, and white quartz in its composition, and
+greatly resembles the friable sandstones of the lignite formation at the
+mouth of Bear Lake River. [Sidenote: 186] In some parts the soil has a
+red colour from the disintegration of a reddish-brown slate-clay.
+[Sidenote: 187] The summits of the hills that were visited were thinly
+coated with loose gravel, composed of smooth pebbles of lydian-stone,
+intermixed with some pieces of green felspar, white quartz, limestone,
+and chert. In some places almost all the pebbles were as large as a
+goose-egg, in others none of them exceeded the size of a hazel nut. The
+Rein-deer Mountains terminate in lat. 69 degrees, having previously
+diminished in altitude to two hundred feet, and the eastern branch of
+the river turns round their northern extremity. White spruce trees grow
+at the base of these hills as far as lat. 68-1/2 degrees; north of which
+they become very stunted and straggling, and very soon disappear, none
+reaching to lat. 69 degrees.
+
+Sir Alexander Mackenzie, who, on his return from the sea, walked over
+these hills, says, "Though the country is so elevated, it is one
+continued morass, except on the summits of some barren hills. As I
+carried my hanger in my hand, I frequently examined if any part of the
+ground was in a state of thaw, but could never force the blade into it
+beyond the depth of six or eight inches. The face of the high land
+towards the river is, in some places, rocky, and in others a mixture of
+sand and stone, veined with a kind of red earth, with which the natives
+bedaub themselves." It was on the 14th of July that he made these
+observations. On the 5th of the same month, in a milder year, we found
+that the thaw had penetrated nearly a foot into the beds of clay at the
+base of the hills.
+
+
+ALLUVIAL ISLANDS AT THE MOUTH OF THE MACKENZIE.
+
+The space between the Rocky Mountains and Rein-deer Hills, ninety miles
+in length from lat. 67 degrees 40 minutes to 69 degrees 10 minutes, and
+from fifteen to forty miles in width, is occupied by flat alluvial
+islands, which separate the various branches of the river. Most of these
+islands are partially or entirely flooded in the spring, and have their
+centres depressed and marshy, or occupied by a lake; whilst their
+borders are higher and well clothed by white spruce trees. The spring
+floods find their way, through openings in these higher banks, into the
+hollow centres of the islands, carrying with them a vast quantity of
+drift timber, which, being left there, becomes water-soaked, and,
+finally, firmly impacted in the mud. The young willows, which spring up
+rapidly, contribute much towards raising the borders of the stream, by
+intercepting the drift sand which the wind sweeps from the margin of the
+shallow ponds as they dry up in summer. The banks, being firmly frozen
+in spring, are enabled to resist the weight of the temporary floods
+which occur in that season, and before they are thawed the river has
+resumed its low summer level. The trees which grow on the islands
+terminate suddenly, in lat. 68 degrees 40 minutes.
+
+I have already mentioned, that a large sheet of brackish water, named
+Esquimaux Lake, lies to the eastward of the Rein-deer Mountains, running
+to the southward, and approaching within sixty miles of the bend of
+Mackenzie's River at Fort Good Hope. This lake has a large outlet into
+Liverpool Bay, to the westward of Cape Bathurst, and there are many
+smaller openings betwixt that bay and Point Encounter, near the north
+end of the Rein-deer Hills, which are also supposed to form
+communications betwixt the lake and the sea. The whole coast-line from
+Cape Bathurst to the mouth of the Mackenzie, and the islands skirting
+it, as far as Garry and Sacred Islands, present a great similarity in
+outline and structure. They consist of extensive sandy flats, from which
+there arise, abruptly, hills of an obtuse conical form, from one to two
+hundred feet above the general level. Sandy shoals skirt the coast, and
+numerous inlets and basins of water divide the flat lands, and
+frequently produce escarpments of the hills, which show them to be
+composed of strata of sand of various colours, sometimes inclosing very
+large logs of drift timber. There is a coating of black vegetable earth,
+from six inches to a foot in thickness, covering these sandy hummocks,
+and some of the escarped sides appeared black, which was probably caused
+by soil washed from the summit.
+
+It is possible that the whole of these eminences may, at some distant
+period, have been formed by the drifting of moveable sands. At present
+the highest floods reach only to their bases, their height being marked
+by a thick layer of drift timber. When the timber has been thrown up
+beyond the reach of ordinary floods, it is covered with sand, and, in
+process of time, with vegetable mould. The _Elymus mollis_, and some
+similar grasses with long fibrous roots, serve to prevent the sand-hills
+from drifting away again. Some of the islands, however, consist of mud
+or clay. Captain Franklin describes Garry's Island as presenting cliffs,
+two hundred feet high, of black mud, in which there were inclined beds
+of lignite. [Sidenote: 188] Specimens of this lignite have the same
+appearance with the fibrous wood-coal occurring in the formation at the
+mouth of Bear Lake River, and, like it, contain resin. [Sidenotes: 189,
+190] Imbedded in the same bank, there were large masses of a dark-brown
+calc-tuff, full of cavities containing some greenish earthy substance.
+Some boulders of lydian stone strew the beach. The cliffs of
+Nicholson's Island also consisted of sand and mud, which, at the time
+of our visit, (July 16th,) had thawed to the depth of three feet. This
+island rises four hundred feet above the level of the sea, and is
+covered with a thin sward of grasses and bents.
+
+
+SEA-COAST.--BITUMINOUS ALUM SHALE.
+
+The main land to the east of Nicholson's Island, as far as Cape
+Bathurst, presents gently swelling hills, which attain the height of two
+hundred feet at the distance of two miles from the beach, and the ground
+is covered with a sward of moss and grasses. At Point Sir Peregrine
+Maitland there are cliffs forty-feet high of sand and slaty clay, and
+the ravines are lined with fragments of whitish compact limestone,
+exactly resembling that which occurs in Lakes Huron and Winipeg, and
+which was afterwards seen forming the promontory of Cape Parry, bearing
+E.N.E. from this place. The beach, on the south side of Harrowby Bay,
+not far from Point Maitland, was thickly strewed with fragments of dark
+red and of white sandstone, together with some blocks of the
+above-mentioned limestone, and a few boulders of sienite.
+
+From Cape Bathurst the coast line has a S.E. direction, and is formed by
+precipitous cliffs, which gradually rise in height from thirty feet to
+six hundred. The beds composing these cliffs appear to be analogous to
+those of the alum-shale banks at Whitby, and similar to those which
+skirt the Scented-grass Hill and Great Bear Mountain, in Great Bear
+Lake. The Scented-grass Hill is distant from Cape Bathurst about three
+hundred miles, on a S.E. bearing, which corresponds, within a point,
+with the direction of the principal mountain chains in the country.
+[Sidenote: 191] There is evidently a striking similarity in the form of
+the ground plan of these two promontories. At the extremity of Cape
+Bathurst the cliffs consist of slaty-clay, which, when dry, has a light
+bluish-gray colour, a slightly greasy feel, and falls down in flakes.
+The rain-water had penetrated the cliff to the depth of three yards from
+the summit; and this portion was frozen, on the 17th July, into an icy
+wall, which crumbled down as it thawed. On proceeding a little further
+along the coast, some beds were observed that possessed, when newly
+exposed to the air, tenacity enough to be denominated stone, but which,
+under the action of water, speedily softened into a tenacious
+bluish-clay.
+
+[Sidenotes: 192, 193, 197, 198, 199] At Point Traill we were attracted
+by the variegated colours of the cliff, and on landing found that they
+proceeded from clays baked by the heat of a bed of bituminous-alum-shale
+which had been on fire. Some parts of the earth were still warm. The
+shale is of a brown colour and thin slaty structure, with an earthy
+fracture. It contains many interspersed crystals of selenite; between
+its lamina there is much powdery alum, mixed with sulphur, and it is
+traversed by veins of brown selenite, in slender prismatic crystals.
+[Sidenotes: 200, 194, 195, 196] The bed was much broken down, and hid by
+the debris of the bank, but in parts it was several yards thick, and
+contained layers of the wax-coloured variety of alum, named Rock-butter.
+The shale is covered by a bed of stone, chiefly composed of oval
+distinct concretions of a poor calcareous clay-iron stone. These
+concretions have a straight cleavage in the direction of their short
+axis, and are often coated by fibrous calc-sinter and calcedony. The
+upper part of the cliff is clay and sand passing into a loosely cohering
+sandstone. The strata are horizontal, except in the neighbourhood of
+ravines, or of consumed shale, when they are often highly inclined,
+apparently from partial subsidence. The debris of the cliff form
+declivities, having an inclination of from fifty to eighty degrees, and
+the burnt clays variously coloured, yellow, white, and deep red, give it
+much the appearance of the rubbish of a brick-field. The view of the
+interior, from the summit of the cliff, presents a surface slightly
+varied by eminences, which swell gently to the height of fifty or sixty
+feet above the general level. The soil is clayey, with a very scanty
+vegetation, and there are many small lakes in the country.
+
+[Sidenote: 201] Ten miles further on, the alum-shale forms a cliff two
+hundred feet high, and presents layers of the Rock-butter about two
+inches thick, with many crystals of selenite on the surfaces of the
+slates. The summit of the cliff consists of a bed of marly gravel two
+yards thick, which is composed of pebbles of granite, sienite, quartz,
+lydian-stone, and compact limestone, all coated by a white powdery marl.
+The dip of the strata at this place is slightly to the northward.
+
+A few miles to the south-east of Wilmot Horton River the cliffs are six
+hundred feet high, and present acclivities having an inclination of from
+thirty to sixty degrees, formed of weathered slate-clay. Some beds of
+alum-shale are visible at the foot of these cliffs, containing much
+sulphate of alumina and masses of baked clay.
+
+Two miles further along the coast the shaly strata were on fire, giving
+out smoke, and beyond this the cliffs become much broken but less
+precipitous, having fallen down in consequence of the consumption of the
+combustible strata. These ruined cliffs gradually terminated in green
+and sloping banks, whose summit was from one to two miles inland, and
+about six hundred feet above the sea level. Considerable tracts of level
+ground occurred occasionally betwixt these banks and the beach. Wherever
+the ground was cut by ravines, beds of slate-clay were exposed. On
+reaching the bottom of Franklin Bay, we observed the higher grounds
+keeping an E.S.E. direction until lost to the view, becoming, however,
+somewhat peaked in the outline.
+
+
+SEA COAST.--LIMESTONE.
+
+Parry's Peninsula, where it joins the mainland, is very low, consisting
+mostly of gravel and sand, and is there greatly indented by shallow
+bays, but it gradually increases in height towards Cape Parry. The bays
+and inlets are separated from the sea by beaches composed of rolled
+pieces of compact limestone; and which, although they are in places only
+a few yards across, are several miles in length. The northern part of
+Parry's Peninsula belongs entirely to a formation which appears from the
+mineralogical characters of the stone composing the great mass of the
+strata, and the organic remains observed in it, to be identical with the
+limestone formations of Lakes Winipeg and Huron.
+
+[Sidenotes: 202, 204] On the north side of Sellwood Bay, in lat. 69
+degrees 42 minutes, cliffs about twenty feet high are composed of a
+fine-grained[43] brownish dolomite, in angular distinct concretions, and
+containing corallines and veins of calc-spar. [Sidenote: 203] In the
+same neighbourhood there is a bed of grayish-black compact luculite with
+drusses of calc-spar, very similar to the limestone which occurs in
+highly inclined strata at the "Rock by the River Side," on the
+Mackenzie, and in horizontal strata in an island near that rock, where
+it forms angular concretions.
+
+After passing Sellwood Bay, the north and east shores of Cape Parry, and
+the islands skirting them, present magnificent cliffs of limestone,
+which, from the weathering action of the waves of the sea, assume
+curious architectural forms. Many of the insulated rocks are perforated.
+Between the bold projecting cliffs of limestone there are narrow
+shelving beaches, formed of its debris, that afford access to the
+interior. The strata have generally a slight dip to the northward, and
+the most common Rock is a yellowish-gray dolomite which has a very
+compact structure, but presents some shining facets of disseminated
+calc-spar. This stone, which is not to be distinguished by its
+mineralogical characters from the prevailing limestone of Lake Winipeg,
+and at the passage of _La cloche_ in Lake Huron, forms beds six or eight
+feet thick, and is frequently interstratified with a cellular limestone,
+approaching to chert in hardness, and exhibiting the characters of
+rauchwacke. In some parts, the rauchwacke is the predominating rock, and
+has its cells beautifully powdered with crystals of quartz or of
+calc-spar, and contains layers of chert of a milky colour. The chert has
+sometimes the appearance of calcedony, and is finely striped.
+
+[Sidenote: 208, 209] The extremity of Cape Parry is a hill about seven
+hundred feet high, in which beds of brownish dolomite, impregnated with
+silica, are interstratified with a thin-slaty, gray limestone, having a
+compact structure.[44] The vegetation is very scanty, and there are some
+spots covered with fragments of dolomite, on which there is not the
+vestige even of a lichen. Many large boulders of greenstone were thrown
+upon the N.W. point of Cape Parry. The islands in Darnley Bay, between
+Capes Parry and Lyon, are composed of limestone.
+
+
+SEA-COAST.--FORMATION OF SLATE-CLAY, SANDSTONE, AND LIMESTONE, WITH
+TRAP-ROCKS.
+
+From Cape Lyon to Point Tinney, the rocks forming the coast-line are
+slate-clay, limestone, greenstone, sandstone, and calcareous
+puddingstone.
+
+[Sidenote: 214] Near the extremity of Cape Lyon the _slate-clay_
+predominates, occurring in straight, thin, bluish-gray layers, which are
+interspersed with detached scales of mica. [Sidenote: 215] It sometimes
+forms thicker slates, that are impregnated with iron, and occurs alone,
+or interstratified in thin beds with a reddish, small-grained limestone.
+The strata, in general, dip slightly to the N.E., and form
+gently-swelling grounds, which at the distance of about fifteen miles to
+the southward terminate in hills, named the Melville Range. These hills
+are apparently connected with those which skirt the coast to the
+westward of Parry's Peninsula, have rather a soft outline, and do not
+appear to attain an altitude of more than seven or eight hundred feet
+above the sea. Ridges of naked trap-rocks, which traverse the lower
+country betwixt the Melville hills and the extremity of the Cape, rise
+abruptly to the height of one hundred or one hundred and fifty feet, and
+have, in general, an E.N.E. direction. When these trap ridges reach the
+coast, they form precipices which frequently have a columnar structure,
+and the nearly horizontal strata of slate-clay are generally seen
+underlying the precipices. In many places the softer clay strata are
+worn considerably away, and the columns of greenstone hang over the
+beach. Columns of this description occur at the north-eastern extremity
+of the Cape, and the slate-clay is not altered at its point of contact
+with the greenstone. The soil in this neighbourhood is clayey, and some
+small streams have pretty lofty and steep clayey banks; the shaly strata
+appearing only at their base. A better sward of grasses and carices
+exists at Cape Lyon, than is usual on those shores. Many boulders of
+greenstone and large fragments of red sandstone strew the beach.
+
+At Point Pearce, four or five miles to the eastward of Cape Lyon, a
+reddish, small-grained limestone forms perpendicular cliffs two hundred
+feet high, in which a remarkable cavern occurs. Near these cliffs the
+slate-clay and reddish limestone are interstratified, and form a bold
+rocky point, in which the strata dip to the N.E. at an angle of 20
+degrees. The coast line becomes lower to the eastward, and at Point
+Keats a fine-grained, flesh-coloured sandstone occurs. This sandstone is
+quartzose, does not possess much tenacity, and is without any apparent
+basis.
+
+At Point Deas Thompson the limestone re-appears, having reddish-brown
+and flesh-red colours, and a splintery fracture. There are some
+beautiful Gothic arches formed in the cliffs there by the weathering of
+the strata.
+
+Five miles farther along the coast, near Roscoe River, the same kind of
+limestone forms cliffs twenty-five feet high, and is covered by thin
+layers of soft slate-clay. On the top of these cliffs we observed a
+considerable quantity of drift-timber and some hummocks of gravel. The
+spring tides do not rise above two feet. The Melville Range approaches
+within three miles of the coast there, and presents a few short conical
+summits, although the hills composing it are mostly round-backed.
+
+[Sidenotes: 217, 218, 219] At Point De Witt Clinton, a compact
+blackish-blue limestone, traversed by veins of calc-spar, forms a bed
+thirty feet thick, which reposes on thin layers of a soft, compact,
+light, bluish-gray limestone or marl. The cliffs at this place are
+altogether about seventy feet high, but their bases were concealed by
+accumulations of ice. Veins filled with compact and fibrous gypsum
+traverse the upper limestone. Naked and barren ridges of greenstone,
+much iron-shot, cross the country here, in the same manner as at Cape
+Lyon. The soil consists of gravel and clay; the former mostly composed
+of whitish magnesian limestone; and the vegetation is very scanty.
+
+At Point Tinney, in lat. 69 degrees 20 minutes, cliffs of a calcareous
+puddingstone, about forty feet high, extend for a mile along the coast.
+The basis, in most of the beds, is calc-spar; but in some small layers
+it is calcareous sand. The imbedded pebbles are smooth, vary in
+magnitude, from the size of a pea to that of a man's hand, and are
+mostly or entirely of chert, which approaches to calcedony, and, when
+striped, to agate in its characters. Perhaps, much of the gravel which
+covers the country is derived from the destruction of this conglomerate
+rock.
+
+
+SEA COAST.--LIMESTONE.
+
+From Point Clifton to Cape Hearne, the whole coast consists of a
+formation of limestone precisely similar to that which occurs on Lake
+Winipeg and Parry's Peninsula.
+
+Dolomite, the prevailing rock in this formation, is generally in thin
+layers, and has a light smoke-gray colour, varying occasionally to
+yellowish gray, and buff. Its structure is compact, with little lustre,
+except from facets of disseminated calc-spar. It sometimes passes into
+milk-white chert, which forms beds. In some places the dolomite
+alternates with cellular limestone, which is generally much impregnated
+with quartz, and has its cavities powdered with crystals of that
+mineral. No organic remains were observed in the strata, but fragments,
+evidently derived from some beds of the formation, contained
+orthoceratites, like those of Lake Huron. The strata, though nearly
+horizontal, appear to crop out towards the north and east, forming
+precipices about ten feet high, facing in that direction, and running
+like a wall across the country. In many places, however, and
+particularly at Cape Krusenstern, the strata terminate in magnificent
+cliffs upwards of two hundred feet high, the country in the interior
+remaining level. Mount Barrow is a small hill of limestone, of a
+remarkable form, being a natural fortification surrounded by a moat. The
+coast line is indented by shallow bays, and skirted by rocks and
+islands.
+
+In the whole country occupied by this formation, the ground is covered
+with slaty fragments, sometimes to the depth of three feet or more.
+These slates appear to have been detached from the strata they cover, by
+the freezing of the water, which insinuates itself betwixt their layers.
+At Cape Bexley, the fragments of dolomite cover the ground to the
+exclusion of all other soil; and in a walk of several miles, I did not
+see the vestige of a vegetable, except a small green scum upon some
+stones that formed the lining of a pond which had dried up. In this
+neighbourhood there are a number of straight furrows a foot deep, as if
+a plough had been drawn through the loose fragments. After many
+conjectures as to the cause of this phenomenon, I ascertained that the
+furrows had their origin in fissures of the strata lying underneath.
+
+At the commencement of this formation between Point Tinney and Point
+Clifton, the coast is low, and a stream of considerable magnitude, named
+Croker River, together with many rivulets, flow into the sea. Its
+termination to the southward of Cape Hearne is also marked by a low
+coast line, which is bounded by the bold rocky hills of Cape Kendall.
+
+
+FORMATION SIMILAR TO THAT AT CAPE LYON.
+
+The beach between Cape Hearne and Cape Kendall is in some places
+composed of slate-clay, and of a clay resembling wacke. Many large
+boulders of greenstone occur there. Cape Kendall is a projecting rocky
+point, about five or six hundred feet high, and nearly precipitous on
+three sides, which are washed by the sea. On the north, its rocks
+consist entirely of greenstone, but on the south side of the Cape the
+greenstone in lofty columns reposes on thin-slaty beds of fine-grained,
+bluish-gray limestone. Back's Inlet presents on each side a succession
+of lofty precipitous headlands, which have the shape termed, by seamen,
+"the gunner's quoin." Most of the islands and points near the mouth of
+the Coppermine have this form, and are composed of trap rocks.
+[Sidenote: 220] One of Cowper's islands on which we landed consists of
+beds of greenstone cropping out like the steps of a stair.
+
+A low ridge of greenstone exists at the mouth of the Coppermine river,
+and from thence to Bloody-fall, a distance of ten miles, the country is
+nearly level, with the exception of some low ridges of trap which run
+through it. The channel of the river is sunk about one hundred and fifty
+feet below the surrounding country, and is bounded by cliffs of
+yellowish white sand, and sometimes of clay, from beneath which, beds of
+greenstone occasionally crop out.
+
+At Bloody-fall, a round-backed ridge of land, seven or eight hundred
+feet high, crosses the country. It has a gentle ascent on the north, but
+is steep towards the south. The river at the fall makes its way through
+a narrow gap, whose nearly precipitous sides consist of tenacious clay,
+the bed and immediate borders of the stream being formed of
+greenstone.[45] From thence to the Copper Mountains, gently undulated
+plains occur, intersected in various parts by precipitous ridges of trap
+rocks, and the river flows in a narrow chasm, sunk about one hundred
+feet below their level. A few miles above Bloody-fall, strata of light
+gray clay-slate, dipping to the north-east, at an angle of 20 degrees,
+support some greenstone cliffs on the banks of the river. [Sidenotes:
+222, 223, 224] From this place to the Copper Mountains the rocks
+observed in the ravines were a dark reddish-brown, felspathose
+sandstone, and gray slate-clay, in horizontal strata, with greenstone
+rising in ridges. The soil is sandy, and in many places clayey, with a
+pretty close grassy sward. Straggling spruce trees begin to skirt the
+banks of the river about eighteen or twenty miles from the sea.
+
+
+COPPER MOUNTAINS.
+
+The Copper Mountains rise perhaps eight or nine hundred feet above the
+bed of the river, and at a distance, present a somewhat soft outline,
+but on a nearer view they appear to be composed of ridges which have a
+direction from W.N.W. to E.S.E. Many of the ridges have precipitous
+sides, and their summits, which are uneven and stony, do not rise more
+than two hundred, or two hundred and fifty feet above the vallies, which
+are generally swampy and full of small lakes. The only rocks noticed
+when we crossed these hills on the late journey, were clay-slate,
+greenstone, and dark red sandstone, sometimes containing white
+calcareous concretions, resembling an amygdaloidal rock. On our first
+journey down the Coppermine River, we visited a valley where the Indians
+had been accustomed to look for native copper, and we found there many
+loose fragments of a trap rock, containing native copper, green
+malachite, copper glance, and iron-shot copper green; also trap
+containing greenish-gray prehnite with disseminated native copper,
+which, in some specimens was crystallized in rhomboidal dodecahedrons.
+Tabular fragments of prehnite, associated with calc-spar and native
+copper, were also picked up, evidently portions of a vein, but we did
+not discover the vein in its original repository. The trap-rock, whose
+fragments strewed the valley, consists of felspar, deeply coloured by
+hornblende. A few clumps of white spruce trees occur in the vallies of
+the Copper Mountains, but the country is in general naked. The
+Coppermine River makes a remarkable bend round the end of these hills.
+
+After quitting the Copper Mountains, and passing a valley occupied by a
+chain of small lakes in lat. 67 degrees 10 minutes, long. 116 degrees 45
+minutes, we travelled over a formation whose prevailing rocks are
+spotted sandstone and conglomerate, and which forms the _height of land_
+betwixt Bear Lake and the Coppermine River. The ascent to this height
+from the eastward is gradual, but the descent towards Bear Lake is more
+rapid. The country is broken and hilly, though the height of the hills
+above the sea is perhaps inferior to that of the Copper Mountains. The
+vallies through which the small streams that water the country flow, are
+narrow and deep, resembling ravines, and their sides are clayey. The
+ground is strewed with gravel.
+
+The _sandstone_ has very generally a purplish colour, with gray spots of
+various magnitudes. It is fine grained, hard, has a somewhat vitreous
+lustre and contains little or no disseminated mica.
+
+The _conglomerate_ consists of oval pebbles of white quartz, sometimes
+of very considerable magnitude, imbedded in an iron-shot cement. Many of
+the pebbles appear as if they had been broken and firmly re-united
+again. The conglomerate passes into a coarse sandstone.
+
+Porphyry and granite form hills amongst the sandstone strata.
+
+The _porphyry_ has a compact basis, like hornstone, of a dull brown
+colour, which contains imbedded crystals of felspar and quartz, and
+occasionally of augite. It forms some dome-shaped and short conical
+hills.
+
+The _granite_ is disposed in oblong ridges, with small mural precipices.
+It has, generally, a flesh-red colour, and contains some specks of
+augite, but little or no mica. The granite and porphyry were observed
+only on the east side of the height of land, the brow of which, and its
+whole western declivity, is formed of sandstone. Boulders of granite and
+porphyry, precisely similar to the varieties which occur _in situ_ on
+the height of land, are common on the beach at Fort Franklin, and on the
+banks of the Mackenzie above Bear Lake.
+
+To the westward of the height of land, the country on the banks of Dease
+River is more level, and few rocks _in situ_ were seen, until within
+five or six miles of Bear Lake, where the stream flows through a chasm,
+whose sides are composed of a soft, fine-grained red sandstone, like
+that which occurs in the vale of Dumfries, in Scotland. Several ravines
+here have their sides composed of fine sand, inclosing fragments of soft
+sandstone.
+
+About three miles from the mouth of Dease River we came to a limestone
+formation, which has been already noticed in the account of the
+geological structure of the shores of Great Bear Lake.
+
+
+EASTERN CHAIN OF PRIMITIVE ROCKS.
+
+The preceding part of the paper describing the rock formations which
+were noticed on the route of the expedition from Great Slave Lake down
+the Mackenzie along the shores of the Arctic Sea, the Coppermine, Great
+Bear Lake, and Great Bear River, being a distance of three thousand
+miles, I shall, by way of supplement, mention very briefly some of the
+more southern deposits.
+
+The first I have to speak of is the chain of primitive rocks to which I
+have alluded in page 289, as extending for a very great distance in a
+north-west direction, and inclining in the northern parts slightly
+towards the Rocky Mountain Chain. Dr. Bigsby, in his account of the
+geology of Lake Huron says, that "The primitive rocks on the northern
+shores of that lake are part of a vast chain, of which the southern
+portion, extending probably uninterruptedly from the north and east of
+Lake Winipeg, passes thence along the northern shores of Lakes Superior,
+Huron, and Simcoe, and after forming the granitic barrier of the
+Thousand Isles, at the outlet of Lake Ontario, spreads itself largely
+throughout the state of New York, and there joins with the Alleghanies,
+and their southern continuations." It is not my intention to say any
+thing further of the rocks in the districts of which Dr. Bigsby speaks,
+although in travelling from the United States to Lake Winipeg the
+expedition passed over them. That zealous geologist has already given,
+in various publications, many interesting and accurate details of the
+formations on the borders of the great lakes; an account of those which
+lie some degrees farther to the north is inserted in the second volume
+of the Geological Transactions,--and there are some notices of them in
+the Appendix to the narrative of Captain Franklin's First Journey. My
+object at present is, merely to trace the western boundary of the
+primitive rocks in their course through the more northerly parts of the
+American continent.
+
+I have already quoted Sir Alexander Mackenzie's original and important
+remark, of the principal lakes in those quarters being interposed
+betwixt the primitive rocks and the secondary strata, lying to the
+westward of them--Lake Winipeg is an instance in point. It is a long,
+narrow lake, and is bounded throughout on its east side by primitive
+rocks, mostly granitic, whilst its more indented western shore is formed
+of horizontal limestone strata. The western boundary of the primitive
+rocks, extending on this lake about two hundred and eighty miles, has
+nearly a north-north-west direction. From Norway Point, at the north end
+of the lake, to Isle à la Crosse, a distance of four hundred and twenty
+miles in a straight line, the boundary has a west-north-west direction.
+For two hundred and forty miles from Isle à la Crosse to Athabasca Lake,
+the course of the primitive rocks is unknown to me; but from Athabasca
+Lake to M'Tavish's Bay, in Great Bear Lake, a distance of five hundred
+miles, their western edge runs about north-west-by-west, and is marked
+by the Slave River, a deep inlet on the north side of Great Slave Lake,
+and a chain of rivers and lakes, (including great Marten Lake,) which
+discharge themselves into that inlet.
+
+Captain Franklin on his voyage crossed this primitive chain nearly at
+right angles to its line of direction, in proceeding from Hudson's Bay
+to Lake Winipeg--it was there two hundred and twenty miles wide.
+
+The hills composing the chain are of small elevation, none of them
+rising much above the surrounding country. They have mostly rounded
+summits, and they do not form continuous ridges; but are detached from
+each other, by vallies of various breadth, though generally narrow, and
+very seldom level. The sides of the hills are steep, often precipitous.
+When the vallies are of considerable extent, they are almost invariably
+occupied by a lake, the proportion of water in this primitive district
+being very great; from the top of the highest hill on the Hill River,
+which has not a greater altitude than six hundred feet, thirty-six lakes
+are said to be visible. The small elevation of the chain may be inferred
+from an examination of the map, which shows that it is crossed by
+several rivers, that rise in the Rocky Mountains, the most considerable
+of which are the Churchill and the Saskatchewan, or Nelson River. These
+great streams have, for many hundred miles from their origin, the
+ordinary appearance of rivers, in being bounded by continuous parallel
+banks; but on entering the primitive district, they present chains of
+lake-like dilatations, which are full of islands, and have a very
+irregular outline. Many of the numerous arms of these expansions wind
+for miles through the neighbouring country, and the whole district bears
+a striking resemblance, in the manner in which it is intersected by
+water, to the coast of Norway and the adjoining part of Sweden. The
+successive dilatations of the rivers have scarcely any current, but are
+connected to each other by one or more straits, in which the
+water-course is more or less obstructed by rocks, and the stream is very
+turbulent and rapid. The most prevalent rock in the chain is gneiss; but
+there is also granite and mica-slate, together with numerous beds of
+amphibolic rocks.
+
+
+LIMESTONE OF LAKE WINIPEG.
+
+To the westward of the chain of primitive rocks, through a great part,
+if not through the whole of its course, lies an extensive horizontal
+deposit of limestone.
+
+Dr. Bigsby, in the Geological Transactions, has described, in detail,
+the limestone of Lake Huron, and is disposed to refer "the cavernous and
+brecciated limestone of Michilimackinac to the magnesian breccia, which
+is in England connected with the red marl;" whilst the limestones of St.
+Joseph, and the northern isles, he considers as more resembling the
+well-known formation of Dudley, in Staffordshire. The limestone of
+Thessalon Isle, in which there occurs the remarkable species of
+orthoceratite which he has figured, he describes as decidedly magnesian.
+I observed this orthoceratite in the limestone strata of one of the
+isles forming the passage of La Cloche in Lake Huron. The limestone
+deposits of Lake Winipeg and Cape Parry exactly resemble that of La
+Cloche in mineralogical characters, and in containing the same
+orthoceratite which was also found by Captains Parry and Lyon at
+Igloolik.
+
+The colour of the limestone of Lake Winipeg is very generally
+yellowish-white, passing into buff, on the one hand, and into ash-gray
+on the other. A reddish tinge is also occasionally observed. Much of it
+has a flat fracture, with little or no lustre, and a fine-grained
+arenacious structure. A great portion of it, however, is compact, and
+has a flat conchoidal and slightly splintery fracture. This variety
+passes into a beautiful china-like chert. [Sidenote: 1001, 1014] Many of
+the beds are full of long, narrow vesicular cavities, which are lined
+sometimes with calc-spar, but more frequently with minute crystals of
+quartz. The beds of this formation seldom exceed a foot in thickness,
+and are often very thin and slaty. The arenacious and cherty varieties
+frequently occur in the same bed; sometimes they form distinct beds. The
+softer kinds weather readily into a white marl, which is used by the
+residents to whitewash their houses. Wherever extensive surfaces of the
+strata were exposed, as in the channels of rivers, they were observed to
+be traversed by rents crossing each other at various angles. The larger
+rents, which were sometimes two yards or more in width, were however,
+generally parallel to each other for a considerable distance.
+
+Professor Jameson enumerates _terebratulæ_, _orthoceratites_,
+_encrinites_, _caryophyllitæ_, and _lingulæ_, as the organic remains in
+the specimens brought home by Captain Franklin on his first expedition.
+Mr. Stokes and Mr. James De Carle Sowerby have examined those which we
+procured on the last expedition, and found amongst them
+_terebratulites_, _spirifers_, _maclurites_, and _corallines_. The
+maclurites belonging to the same species, with specimens from Lakes Erie
+and Huron, and also from Igloolik, are perhaps referrible to the
+_Maclurea magna_ of Le Sueur. [Sidenote: 1015, 1019] Mr. Sowerby
+determined a shell, occurring in great abundance in the strata at
+Cumberland-house, about one hundred and twenty miles to the westward of
+Lake Winipeg, to be the _Pentamerus Aylesfordii_.
+
+The extent to the westward of the limestone deposit of Lake Winipeg is
+not well known to me; but I have traced it as far up the Saskatchewan as
+Carlton House, and its breadth there is at least two hundred and eighty
+miles. For about one hundred miles below Carlton House, the river
+Saskatchewan flows betwixt banks from one to two hundred feet in height,
+consisting of clay or sand, and the beds of limestone are exposed in
+very few places. The plains in the neighbourhood of Carlton abound in
+small lakes, some of which are salt. The country which the Saskatchewan
+waters for one hundred and ninety miles before it enters Lake Winipeg,
+is of a different kind. It is still more flat than that about Carlton,
+and is so little raised above the level of the river, that in the
+spring-floods the whole is inundated, and in several places the river
+sends off branches which reunite with it after a course of many miles.
+In this quarter the soil is generally thin, and the limestone strata are
+almost every where extensively exposed. To the southward of Cumberland
+House, the Basquiau Hill has considerable elevation. I had not an
+opportunity of visiting it; but in the flat limestone strata, near its
+foot, there are salt springs, from which the Indians sometimes procure a
+considerable quantity of salt by boiling; and there are several
+sulphureous springs within the formation.
+
+I observed no beds of conglomerate in it, and no sandstone associated
+with it; but the extensive plains which lie betwixt Carlton House and
+the Rocky Mountains are sandy, and beds of sandstone are said to be
+visible in some of the ravines.
+
+The line of contact of the limestone with the primitive rocks of Lake
+Winipeg, is covered with water; but at the Dog's-Head, and near the
+north end of Beaver Lake, they are exposed within less than a mile of
+each other. To the southward of the Dog's-Head in Lake Winipeg, and in a
+few other quarters, some schistose rocks, belonging to the transition
+series, are interposed between the two formations.
+
+Before quitting the formations of Lake Winipeg, I may remark, that the
+height of that lake above the sea is perhaps equal to that of Lake
+Superior, which is eight hundred feet.
+
+
+LIMESTONE OF THE ELK AND SLAVE RIVERS.
+
+The next formation I have to mention is one which appears to possess
+most of the characters ascribed by German geologists to the zechstein.
+It extends from the north side of the Methy carrying-place down the
+Clearwater, Elk, and Slave Rivers, and along the south shore of Great
+Slave Lake to the efflux of the Mackenzie. The line I have traced was
+the route of the expedition, and is also very nearly that of the eastern
+boundary of the limestone. Primitive rocks occur in Lake Mammawee,
+Athabasca Lake, and on the Stony River; and on several parts of the
+Slave River they are separated from the limestone only by the breadth of
+the stream. On Great Slave Lake, the Stony Island, on the north-east
+side of the mouth of Slave River, is composed of granite, whilst the
+limestone strata are exposed at Fort Resolution on the south-west side.
+
+[Sidenote: 1027, 1028] The limestone in this extensive tract is commonly
+in thin and nearly horizontal beds, and much of it exactly resembles in
+mineralogical characters the dolomite and chert of Lake Winipeg. It is
+interstratified with thin beds of soft white marl; and in a few places
+with a marly sandstone. Extensive beds of stinkstone also occur, and
+many beds of limestone containing fluid bitumen in cavities. The bitumen
+is in such quantity, in some quarters, as to flow in streams from
+fissures in the rock; and in an extensive district, around Pierre au
+Calumet on the Elk River, slaggy mineral pitch fills the crevices in the
+soil, and may be collected in large quantities by digging a well.
+
+A calcareous breccia also exists in various places, particularly on the
+Slave River. Springs depositing from their waters sulphur, and sulphate
+of lime, slightly mixed with sulphate of magnesia, muriate of soda, and
+iron, are common and copious. A few miles to the westward of the Slave
+River, there is a ridge of hills several miles long, and about two
+hundred feet high, having several beds of compact, grayish gypsum
+exposed on its sides. From the base of this hill there issue seven or
+eight very copious, and many smaller springs, whose waters deposit a
+great quantity of very fine muriate of soda by spontaneous evaporation.
+The collected rivulets from these springs form a stream which is, at its
+junction with the Slave River, sixty yards wide and eight or ten feet
+deep.
+
+[Sidenote: 1020 to 1026] The organic remains, in this deposit, according
+a list kindly furnished by Mr. Sowerby, consist of _spirifers_,
+[Sidenote: 1029 to 1032] one of which is the _spirifer acuta_; several
+new _terebratulæ_, of which one resembles the _T. resupinata_, a
+_cirrus_, some crinoidal remains, and corals.
+
+At the union of Clearwater and Elk Rivers, the limestone beds are
+covered to the depth of one hundred and fifty feet with bituminous
+shale.
+
+I have stated, that on Slave River this limestone formation succeeds
+immediately to primitive rocks, but I am not acquainted with the rocks
+that lie to the eastward of it on the Elk River. The traders report that
+there are extensive deposits of sandstone on the eastern arm of the
+Athabasca Lake, and, perhaps, these sandstones extend nearly to
+Clearwater River. Sand covers the limestone on that river to the depth
+of eight or nine hundred feet, and the fragments of sandstone in it are
+large, numerous, and not worn.
+
+The quantity of gypsum in immediate connection with extremely copious
+and rich salt springs, and the great abundance of petroleum in this
+formation, together with the arenacious, soft, marly, and brecciated
+beds interstratified with the dolomite, and above all, the circumstance
+of the latter being by far the most common and extensive rock in the
+deposit, led me to think that the limestone of the Elk and Slave Rivers
+was equivalent to the zechstein of the continental geologists. My
+opinion, however, on this subject is, from a total want of practical
+acquaintance with the European rock formations, of little weight; and
+several eminent geologists are, after an examination of the organic
+remains and mineralogical characters of the specimens brought home,
+inclined to consider the formation as analogous to the carboniferous or
+mountain-limestone of England.
+
+As to the limestone formation of Lake Winipeg, I have no doubt of its
+identity with that occurring in the islands at the passage of La Cloche,
+in Lake Huron, and also with that at Cape Parry and at Cape Krusenstern,
+on the coast of the Arctic Sea. It is probable, also, that these four
+deposits belong to the same epoch with the limestone of Elk and Slave
+Rivers, although they differ in containing little or no petroleum. It is
+proper to mention, however adverse it may be to the opinion I have
+ventured to hint at above, of these extensive horizontal deposits of
+limestone being referable to the zechstein, that the limestone of Lake
+Huron is generally considered as belonging to the mountain-limestone;
+and Professor Jameson, from a review of the organic remains occurring in
+the Lake Winipeg deposit, considered that it also belonged to that
+formation. The formation of Cape Lyon may be, with less danger of a
+mistake, referred to the transition or mountain-limestone.
+
+THE END.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[20] This was estimated by allowing one foot descent per mile for Bear
+Lake River, whose length is seventy miles; and three inches per mile for
+the descent of Mackenzie River, from the junction of the former river to
+the sea, being a distance of five hundred miles.
+
+[21] In our former journey, we sounded near the Rein-Deer Islands in
+Slave Lake, with sixty-five fathoms line, without reaching the bottom.
+
+[22] Section of the cliffs at Limestone Point--strata dipping to the
+N.N.W.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+In the section the strata are represented much more inclined than they
+really are.
+
+231 Fine-grained, nearly compact, yellowish-gray dolomite, forming the
+summit of the hill, but the first, or lowest stratum, in the language of
+geologists.
+
+232 Compact, splintery dolomite, with a conchoidal fracture, and
+wax-yellow colour--second stratum.
+
+233 A cherty dolomite; containing calc-spar--third stratum.
+
+234 Bluish-gray dolomite, traversed by calc-spar--is nearly compact, and
+has an uneven, splintery fracture--forms the uppermost portion of the
+fourth stratum.
+
+235 Talcose? limestone, having a curved slaty structure, and containing
+cherty portions--from the lower part of the fourth stratum.
+
+236, 237 Earthy greenstone? forms the fifth stratum.
+
+238 Brownish-red dolomite, with an uneven fracture; scarcely splintery.
+It has a compact structure, and is intersected by veins of
+calc-spar--from the sixth stratum.
+
+239 Light yellowish gray dolomite, passing into chert--seventh stratum.
+
+240, 241 Thin slaty beds of brownish-red dolomite, like 238--eighth
+stratum.
+
+242 Bluish-white porcelain chert, sometimes mixed with red
+dolomite--243--ninth stratum.
+
+[23] _List of boulders gathered on the beach at Fort Franklin._
+
+261 Coarse crystalline granite; felspar flesh-red in large crystals;
+quartz gray; mica black.
+
+262 Granite; felspar paler, and less distinctly crystallized; quartz in
+small quantity, gray; mica blackish, and rather abundant.
+
+263 Granite; felspar partly reddish, partly yellowish-white, quartz in
+small grains; mica equalling the quartz in quantity, black.
+
+264 Granite, fine-grained: quartz and felspar, white, the former nearly
+transparent, black mica in small specks, garnets.
+
+265, 268 Granite; quartz in regular crystals; mica blackish, in small
+quantity.
+
+266 Granite? red felspar in large crystals; quartz gray; mica replaced
+by chlorite?
+
+267 Granite; felspar gray; chlorite? in small quantity.
+
+269 Granite, small grained, passing into gneiss; reddish-brown felspar
+and gray quartz, intimately mixed, and having in the aggregate, a
+vitreous lustre; mica in layers.
+
+270 Granite coarser grained than the preceding, containing more quartz;
+the mica disseminated.
+
+271, 273 Granite with little mica, some portions of the felspar tinged
+green.
+
+272, 274, 275, 277, 278, 279, 280, Granite grayish and small grained
+mica black.
+
+276 Granite; brick-red felspar; quartz; and augite?--no mica.
+
+The mica is mostly black in all the granite boulders that occur here,
+the felspar most frequently reddish.
+
+281 Porphyritic granite? felspar imperfectly crystallized, containing
+large, imbedded crystals; quartz; and chlorite?
+
+282 Granite? composed of felspar, of quartz, with, perhaps, a few minute
+grains of chlorite?
+
+283 Granite? contains little quartz, and a few scales of mica, with some
+chlorite?
+
+284 Sienite; felspar somewhat granular, a little quartz and chlorite?
+
+285 Porphyritic sienite? having a basis of slightly granular felspar,
+with light-coloured crystals of felspar, some quartz and disseminated
+grains of chlorite?
+
+286 Reddish-brown hornstone porphyry.
+
+287 Crystalline greenstone.
+
+288 Fine-grained greenstone.
+
+289 Porphyritic greenstone.
+
+290 Pitchstone porphyry.
+
+291 Greenstone slate with pyrites.
+
+292 Amygdaloidal claystone porphyry.
+
+293 Compact grayish-blue dolomite.
+
+294 Splintery dolomite.
+
+295 Cellular dolomite.
+
+296 Swinestone.
+
+297 Limestone with corallines.
+
+298 Chert.
+
+299 White quartz.
+
+300 Quartz-rock.
+
+301 Coarse sandstone.
+
+302 Fine-grained white sandstone.
+
+303 Fine-grained red sandstone.
+
+304 Fine-grained striped sandstone.
+
+305 Fine-grained spotted sandstone.
+
+306 Slaty sandstone verging towards slate-clay.
+
+307 Dark-red claystone.
+
+308 Light-coloured claystone.
+
+[24] _List of Specimens from Diluvial Gravel, Fort Franklin._
+
+1 Amphibolic granite, rather coarse crystalline, felspar flesh-red.
+
+2 Ditto, approaching to gneiss.
+
+3 Gneiss approaching to mica-slate, felspar white, and in small
+quantity.
+
+4 Greenstone with much felspar and minute disseminated pyrites.
+
+5 Quartz rock? having brownish and imperfect crystals, and a reddish
+disintegrated mineral disseminated.
+
+6 Brownish-red and fine granular quartz-rock, with a somewhat splintery
+fracture. It has the aspect of compact felspar.
+
+7 Quartz rock, reddish crystalline texture, and vitreous lustre, but
+with small rounded grains imbedded in it, bringing it near to sandstone.
+
+8 Coarse sandstone; rounded grains of quartz united by a clayey basis.
+
+9 Fine-grained purplish sandstone, with grayish spots. This sandstone
+occurs _in situ_ near the Copper Mountains, between Dease Bay and the
+Coppermine River.
+
+10 Fine-grained yellowish-white sandstone.
+
+11 Yellowish-gray sandstone, composed of small rounded grains of quartz
+united by a powdery white basis.
+
+12 Yellowish-gray sandstone, composed of fine grains of vitreous quartz.
+
+13 Sandstone, having different shades of brownish-red colour, in layers.
+
+14 Lydian stone.
+
+[25] Mr. Sowerby, who inspected all the specimens containing organic
+remains, says of this species of ammonite, "it is, as far as I can
+discover, new. It contains sulphate of barytes, and is probably
+referrible to some of the Oolites near the Oxford clay." Although it was
+found lying on the beach, I have no doubt of its having fallen from some
+of the beds of clayey sandstone, which form the walls of the rapid.
+
+[26] 33 This limestone appears as if composed of an aggregate of small
+crystals, and presents many drusy cavities.
+
+34 Is an adjoining bed of a similar colour, of a fine crystalline
+texture, but without the drusy cavities. It appears to be a dolomite.
+These two beds dip to the northward.
+
+35, 36 Calcareous breccia. The two preceding beds (33 and 34) were from
+the summit of the portion of the hill which forms the cliff, but taken a
+little farther to the N.W. In the cliff the beds dip, as has been
+stated, to the S.W. The following beds occur in going to the
+north-westward, towards the summit of the highest peak, commencing near
+its base, in a valley behind the cliff.
+
+37 A fine-grained blackish-gray dolomite, having interspersed many
+nodules of chert, or grayish-white quartz, not crystallized.
+
+38 A very compact, opaque limestone, of a smoke-gray colour, having a
+flat and slightly splintery fracture. Effervesces briskly.
+
+39 Blackish-gray rather compact limestone, having a flat and dull
+fracture, and intersected by small veins of calc-spar. This is a
+prevalent stone in the hill, and also occurs in quantity in other
+limestone ridges in the neighbourhood.
+
+40 An ash-gray, fine-granular dolomite.
+
+41 A conglomerate, forming the summit of the highest peak.
+
+[27] 57 This breccia has a white calcareous basis, which incloses
+angular fragments of compact, yellowish-gray limestone, with smooth dull
+surfaces.
+
+58 Grayish-white limestone, having a fine crystalline texture, with
+drusy cavities, incrusted with bitumen.
+
+59 Limestone, apparently composed of crystalline fragments, highly
+charged with bitumen, cemented by a whitish carbonate of lime in minute
+crystals. I could not satisfy myself whether this variety of colour
+proceeded from partial impregnations of bitumen, or from a brecciated
+structure. Specimens 58 and 59 were from beds near the western part of
+the hill.
+
+60 A fine-grained dolomite, approaching to compact, having a flat and
+somewhat splintery fracture, and a brownish-gray colour.
+
+61, 62 Limestone in the body of the hill, resembling No. 39 in the hill
+at the rapid in Bear Lake River, but with larger veins of calc-spar.
+
+63, 64 Dark blackish-brown bituminous shale, veined with calc-spar, and
+passing into bituminous marl-slate. It contains nodules of iron pyrites.
+
+65 Thin bed of indurated shale, approaching to flinty-slate, lying at
+the foot of some beds of bituminous limestone. Their connection not
+clearly made out.
+
+66, 67, 68 Bluish-gray, fine-grained sandstone, some of them passing
+into slate-clay, and scarcely to be distinguished from those at the
+rapid in Bear Lake River. Capt. Franklin took these specimens from
+horizontal beds at the foot of the hill facing Bear Lake River.
+
+[28] Sir Alexander Mackenzie, in p. 95 of his Voyage to the Arctic Sea,
+states, that he saw several small mineral springs running from the foot
+of this mountain, and found lumps of iron ore on the beach.
+
+[29] Travels in the Arkansa, p. 52-54.
+
+[30] Section I.
+
+  The section of the bank at the mouth of the Bear Lake River
+  is as follows, beginning with the lowest bed:--
+
+  81 Gravel, with thin layers of sand rising from the water's
+       edge in a perpendicular cliff, to the height of           30 feet
+     Lignite (70 to 80 and 84)                                    1
+  83 Potter's clay of a bluish gray colour, alternating
+       with layers of sand                                       40
+     A sloping uneven brow, covered with soil, extends
+       to the summit of the bank                                 20
+                                                                ----
+                                                                 91
+
+Lydian stone is the most abundant, and whitish quartz the least so of
+the pebbles mentioned in the text as entering into the composition of
+the gravel.
+
+[Sidenote: 82] A little farther up the Mackenzie, this bed of gravel
+passes into sand, which, in some spots, has sufficient coherence to
+merit for it the name of sandstone. During a great part even of the
+summer season, all the beds of sand are frozen into a hard sandstone;
+but a piece having been broken off and put into the pocket, speedily
+thawed into sand.
+
+[Sidenote: 83] Specimens of the clay, which I have denominated potter's
+clay, taken from near the beds of lignite, have a colour intermediate
+between yellowish-gray and clove-brown, a dull earthy fracture, and a
+slightly greasy feel. It is not gritty under the knife, and acquires a
+slightly shining smooth surface, adheres slightly to the tongue, and,
+when moistened with water, assumes a darker colour, and becomes plastic.
+
+Section II.
+
+  About five miles above Bear Lake River, the cliff consists
+  of Slaty sandstone evidently composed of the same materials
+  with the friable kinds described in the text, but having
+  tenacity enough to form a building stone. It incloses some
+  seams of lignite                                               10 feet
+  Lignite                                                         4-1/2
+  Clay and Sand                                                  50
+  Irregular slope from top of cliff to summit of bank            90
+                                                               ---------
+                                                                154-1/2
+
+Section III.
+
+  A little farther up the river than the preceding:--
+
+  85 Pipe-clay on a level with the water                          1 foot
+  86 Lignite                                                      1
+  90 Potter's clay                                               14 feet
+  87 Pipe-clay                                                    1 foot
+  89 Lignite                                                      1
+  91 Potter's clay                                               10 feet
+     Lignite                                                      1 foot
+     Sandstone                                                    8 feet
+     Lignite                                                      2-1/2
+     Potter's clay                                               10
+  94 Friable sandstone and clay                                  20
+     Sandstone a little more durable                             12
+     Sloping Summit                                              40
+                                                               ---------
+                                                                121-1/2
+
+The pipe-clay, when taken newly from the bed, is soft and plastic, has
+little grittiness, and when chewed for a little time, a somewhat
+unctuous but not unpleasant taste. When dried in the air it acquires the
+hardness of chalk, adheres to the tongue, and has the appearance of the
+whiter kinds of English pipe-clay, but is more meagre.
+
+Section IV.
+
+  A little above the preceding:--
+
+  A precipitous bank of gravel                                   12 feet
+  Lignite and clay, the beds concealed by debris                 40
+  Friable sandstone                                              30
+                                                                ----
+    Height of the cliff                                          82
+
+Section V.
+
+  Ten miles above Bear Lake River, at the junction of a small torrent
+  with the Mackenzie, there is a cliff about forty feet high, in which
+  the strata have a dip of sixty degrees to the southward.
+
+  98 Bed, No. 1  Porcelain clay                                 2 yards
+              2  Potter's clay slightly bituminous
+  99          3  Thin-slaty lignite, with two seams of          2-1/2
+  100, 101       clay-iron stone, an inch thick
+              4  Pipe clay, (nine inches)                         1/4
+  104         5  Porcelain clay                                 3
+  105         6  Bituminous clay                                3
+  106         7  Lignite, with a conchoidal fracture            2
+              8  Pipe clay                                        1/4
+  107         9  Porcelain clay                                 3
+             10  Bituminous clay                                3
+  110        11  Lignite, earthy paste, enclosing               2
+                 fibrous fragments
+             12  Porcelain earth                             }
+             13  Bituminous clay                             }  9
+             14  Porcelain earth                             }
+                                                              ----------
+                                                               31 yards.
+
+The three last beds it is probable, once inclosed seams of coal which
+have been consumed, but the quantity of debris prevented this from being
+ascertained satisfactorily during the hurried visit I paid to them.
+
+[Sidenote: 108] Over these inclined beds there is a shelving and
+crumbling cliff of sand and clay covered by a sloping bank of vegetable
+earth. A layer of peat at the summit has a thin slaty structure, and
+presents altogether, except in colour and lustre, a striking resemblance
+to the shaly lignite, forming bed No. 3 in the preceding Section.
+
+104, 98. The substance composing beds Nos. 1 and 5, which I have
+denominated Porcelain clay, has a fine, granular texture, and the
+appearance of some varieties of chalk. It adheres slightly to the
+tongue, yields readily to the nail, is meagre, and soils the fingers
+slightly. There are many specks of coaly matter disseminated through it,
+and some minute scales of mica, and perhaps of quartz. When moistened
+with water, it becomes more friable, and is not plastic. It does not
+effervesce with acids.
+
+Bed No. 9 is the same mineral that forms beds 1 and 5; but it has a
+grayer colour from the greater quantity of coaly particles, and its
+structure is slightly slaty.
+
+The bituminous clay of bed No. 6, has a thick-slaty structure, a
+grayish-black colour, and a shining resinous streak. It is sectile, but
+does not yield to the nail. Pieces of lignite occur imbedded in it, and
+it is traversed by fibrous ramifications of carbonaceous matter.
+
+Specimens 115, 116, 117, 118, 119, are of substances altered by contact
+with beds of burning coal.
+
+[31] See Page 50 of the Narrative.
+
+[32] Noticed in page 267.
+
+[33] List of specimens, collected by Captain Franklin, on the sea-coast,
+to the westward of the Mackenzie.
+
+_From Mount Fitton in the Richardson Chain._
+
+344 Grauwacke-slate in columnar concretions, detached from the rocky
+strata by an Esquimaux.
+
+348 Grauwacke-slate, resembling the preceding, from the same place. Used
+by the Esquimaux as a whetstone.
+
+345, 346 Globular balls of dark, blackish-gray, splintery limestone, and
+of flinty-slate, traversed by minute veins of calc-spar. Picked up at
+the base of the mountain.
+
+347 Worn pebbles of quartz, lydian stone, splintery limestone, and
+grauwacke, from the same spot.
+
+349 Fine-grained, mountain-green clay-slate, approaching to potstone;
+quarried by the Esquimaux in the Cupola Mountain of the same chain, and
+used to form utensils.
+
+350 Rock-crystal from the same chain of mountains.
+
+_From the beach between Point Sabine and Point King._
+
+351 Brown-coal, woody structure scarcely perceptible. There are beds of
+this coal in the earthy cliffs where the party was encamped on the 13th
+and 14th July near Point King.
+
+352 Clay-iron stone, forming boulders in the channels of the rills,
+which cut the earthy banks containing coal.
+
+353, 354 Pitch-coal, having a fibrous structure and a very beautiful
+fracture, presenting a congeries of circles. (This coal was recognised
+by Professor Buckland to be a tertiary pitch-coal, and is precisely
+similar to specimens brought from the upper branches of the
+Saskatchewan, by Mr. Drummond: see page 284.) The specimen was picked up
+from the gravelly beach at the mouth of the Babbage River.
+
+355 Greenish-gray limestone, with a somewhat earthy granular aspect;
+containing shells which Mr. Sowerby considers to be very like the
+_cyclas medius_ of the Sussex weald-clay. Picked up at the same place
+with the preceding specimen.
+
+Captain Franklin remarks, that "the Babbage flows between the mountains
+of the Richardson Chain, and that there were no solid strata nor any
+large boulders near its mouth. The gravel consisted of pebbles of red
+and white sandstone, slaty limestone, greenstone, and porphyry, much
+worn by attrition."
+
+_From Mount Conybeare, in the Buckland Chain._
+
+356 Greenish-gray grauwacke slate, (resembling No. 348,) with specks of
+effervescent carbonate of lime. The surfaces of the slates exhibit
+interspersed scales of mica. The specimens were broken from the summit
+of Mount Conybeare, at the western extreme of the Buckland Chain:
+latitude 69 degrees 27 minutes, longitude 139 degrees 53 minutes west.
+
+358 Fine-grained grauwacke-slate in columnar concretions, from the same
+place with specimen 356.
+
+357 Grauwacke-slate, in thick slaty columnar concretions, besprinkled
+with scales of mica. Taken from a bed about the middle of Mount
+Conybeare. The resemblance of this stone to that of Mount Fitton (No.
+344) is very remarkable.
+
+360 Similar rock to 358, with an adhering portion of a vein of
+crystallized quartz, and on one side a bit of bluish-gray slate. From
+the middle of Mount Conybeare.
+
+359 Columnar concretion of a slaty rock, like 356, but more quartzose,
+breaking into rhomboidal fragments. From the middle of Mount Conybeare.
+
+361, 362 Grauwacke-slate, with a thin adhering vein of carbonate of lime
+and numerous particles of disseminated mica. From the middle of Mount
+Conybeare.
+
+363 Bluish-gray grauwacke-slate, resembling Nos. 348 and 344. From the
+Upper Terrace, at the base of Mount Conybeare.
+
+364 Dark-bluish gray and very fine-grained grauwacke-slate, with a
+glimmering lustre, traversed by a vein of quartz. From the same place.
+
+365 A thick-slaty angular concretion of a very quartzose
+grauwacke-slate, (similar to Nos. 348 and 358,) decomposed on the
+surface and breaking into rhomboidal fragments. From the middle Terrace
+at the base of Mount Conybeare.
+
+366 A somewhat rhomboidal portion of flinty-slate, apparently part of a
+bed. From the Lower Terrace of Mount Conybeare, which is composed of
+this rock. The terrace is ten miles distant from the sea-coast, and the
+intervening ground is swampy.
+
+The whole series of specimens from Mount Conybeare, (Nos. 356 to 366,)
+appear to belong to transition rocks; and the continuity of the
+formation with that of Mount Fitton is rendered probable, both by the
+resemblance of the specimens and the geographical situation of the
+mountains.
+
+Captain Franklin saw no rocks, _in situ_, on the coast to the westward
+of the Richardson Chain; but he gathered boulders of the following rocks
+from the bed of the Net-setting Rivulet, which flows from the British
+Chain of the Rocky Mountains, and falls into the Arctic Sea, between Sir
+P. Malcolm River and Backhouse River.
+
+367 Greenstone; 368, yellowish-gray sandstone; 369, dark-coloured
+splintery-limestone; 370, 371, 372, dolomite; 373, quartzose sandstone,
+like the old red sandstone; 374, grauwacke-slate; 375, quartz and iron
+pyrites.
+
+Boulders of the under-mentioned rocks were gathered on Flaxman Island.
+
+378 Fine-grained, greenish clay-slate, obviously of primitive rock,
+abundant in the neighbourhood, and supposed to have been brought down by
+the rivulets which flow from the Romanzoff Chain. 379, quartz.
+
+376 and 377 were from Foggy Island, and are rolled specimens of
+flinty-slate; one of them containing corallines.
+
+[34] Page 268.
+
+[35] 134. These specimens have a wood-brown colour internally, and
+appear to be composed of minute grains of quartz, variously coloured,
+white, yellowish-brown and black, cemented together by an earthy basis.
+It is a hard and apparently durable stone, occurring in layers an inch
+thick, and having its seam-surfaces of a grayish-black colour, with
+little lustre, as if from a thin coating of bituminous clay.
+
+135, are specimens of a more compact, harder, and finer-grained
+quartzose sandstone, with less cement, and of a deeper bluish-gray
+colour.
+
+[36] Mackenzie attempted to ascend this hill, but was compelled to
+desist by clouds of musquitoes, (July 6th, 1789. _Voyage to the Arctic
+Sea_, p. 40.)
+
+136 This limestone effervesces strongly with acids, breaks into
+irregular fragments, but with an imperfect slaty structure, and has a
+brown colour, with considerable lustre in the cross fracture.
+
+The specimens collected by Captain Franklin were as follows:--
+
+144a Sandstone of an ash-gray colour, composed of rounded grains of
+semi-transparent quartz of various sizes, imbedded in a considerable
+proportion of a powdery basis which effervesces with acids. This bed
+weathers readily.
+
+145 Thick-slaty sandstone passing into slate-clay, having a very
+fine-grained earthy fracture, and a light bluish-gray colour. It is very
+similar to some of the softer sandstones that occur in the coal field at
+Edinburgh, particularly in the Calton Hill.
+
+146 Sectile ash-gray slate-clay which forms the partings of the beds.
+
+144b Bluish-gray marl, impregnated with quartz, forming a moderately
+hard stone, and containing corallines (_amplexus_.)
+
+[37] _Upper part of the ramparts._
+
+148 A fine-granular, foliated limestone, of a white colour, having large
+patches stained yellowish-brown, apparently by bitumen.
+
+149 A yellowish-gray slightly granular limestone, with disseminated
+calc-spar.
+
+150 Compact, white limestone, which, when examined with a lens, appears
+to be entirely composed of madrepores.
+
+151 Specimens of limestone, having a crystalline texture, a brownish
+colour and slaty structure.
+
+152 The seams are dark, as if from the carbonaceous matter--portions of
+this bed have the appearance of old mortar; but contain obscure
+madrepores.
+
+_From the middle of the ramparts._
+
+153 Fine-granular limestone, having a pale, wood-brown colour, and a
+splintery fracture. It resembles the limestone of the hill at the mouth
+of Bear Lake River.
+
+154 Pale yellowish-brown limestone, with a dull fracture, but
+interspersed with small, shining, sparry plates, and traversed by
+concretions of calc-spar, that appear to have originated in corallines.
+
+155 Yellowish-gray limestone, passing into a soft marl slate.
+
+156 Some beds contain a shell, which Mr. Sowerby refers, though with
+doubt, to the species named terebratula sphæroidalis, a fossil of the
+cornbrash. The substance of the shells is preserved.
+
+Some of the specimens contain _producti_, and fragments of the coral
+named _amplexus_.
+
+_Lower end of the ramparts._
+
+157 Fine-grained limestone, of a dark-brown colour, containing some
+small, round, smooth balls of dark limestone--occurs in horizontal
+strata.
+
+158 Brownish-black flinty-slate, which forms a layer an inch thick, and
+covers the horizontal beds of limestone last mentioned. (157.)
+
+[38] _Specimens from the cliffs in lat. 66-3/4 degrees._
+
+159 Very fine-grained sandstone, with much clayey basis--portions of the
+bed iron-shot.
+
+160 Sandstone fine-grained, and appearing, when examined with a lens, to
+be composed of minute grains of whitish translucent quartz, black Lydian
+stone, and ochre-coloured grains, probably of disintegrated felspar.
+
+161 Rounded grains of nearly transparent quartz united without
+cement--this stone is friable.
+
+162 Sandstone composed of grains like the preceding, united by a basis,
+and forming a firmer stone.
+
+163 Hard, thin, slaty, bluish-gray sandstone, much iron-shot.
+
+164 Fine-grained, bluish-gray sandstone, not to be distinguished in
+hand-specimens from some of the sandstones which occur at the rapid in
+Bear Lake River.
+
+[39] _Horizontal limestone beds lying under the sandstone._
+
+166 Fine-grained limestone, with an earthy fracture, coloured brown and
+grayish-white in patches.
+
+167, 168 Similar stone to preceding, containing many shells. Some beds
+contain only broken shells.
+
+169 Bed of imperfectly crystalline limestone, of a brownish-gray colour,
+traversed by veins of calc-spar.
+
+170 Fragments containing madrepores and chain coral--occur amongst the
+debris of the limestone cliffs.
+
+[40] _Sandstone cliffs twenty miles below Fort Good Hope._
+
+173 Friable sandstone, composed of grayish-white quartz, in smooth,
+rounded grains, cemented by a brownish basis. Some carbonaceous matter
+is interspersed through the stone, and it contains small fragments of
+bituminous shale.
+
+174 Calcareous sandstone passing into slate-clay--bluish-gray colour.
+
+175 Black, flinty-slate, with a flat conchoidal cross fracture. Some of
+the pieces appear to be rhomboidal distinct concretions.
+
+176 Dull, flinty-slate, with an even fracture.
+
+178 Thin-slaty blackish-gray sandstone, much indurated, containing
+scales of mica.
+
+179, 180 Bluish-gray sandstone, containing many minute specks of
+carbonaceous matter; also, in patches, grains of chert, and
+flinty-slate, and imbedded pieces of iron-shot clay, which has obscure
+casts of shells. Scales of mica are interspersed through this stone.
+
+181, 182 Sandstone containing specks of bituminous? coal, and casts of
+some vegetable? substance.
+
+183 Gray limestone, much impregnated with quartz, and having an
+imperfect crystalline structure.
+
+[41] Mackenzie notices the precipices of "gray stone," which bound the
+river here, p. 71.
+
+[42] See page 288.
+
+[43] Specimens from Sellwood Bay.
+
+202 Fine-grained dark brownish-gray dolomite, with corallines filled
+with white calc-spar.
+
+203 Lucullite grayish-black, compact, and without lustre.
+
+204 Gray dolomite.
+
+205 A rolled piece, evidently of the same rock with the preceding,
+containing the impression of a _cardium_.
+
+206
+
+[44] Specimens from the Promontory of Cape Parry, which rises into a
+hill, seven hundred feet high. Strata dipping lightly to the northward.
+
+207 Yellowish-gray dolomite, imperfectly crystalline, being similar to
+the limestone of Lake Winipeg.
+
+208 Brownish dolomite impregnated with silica.
+
+209 Thin-slaty, gray limestone. Very common also in Lake Winipeg.
+
+210, 211 Boulders of dolomite.
+
+212
+
+213 Brown dolomite, with drusy cavities and veins, lined by calc-spar.
+
+[45] In the geological notices appended to the narrative of Captain
+Franklin's Journey to the Coppermine, I have termed this rock a dark
+purplish-red felspar rock. On examining it again on this journey, I
+perceived it to be a greenstone, whose surfaces weather of a rusty brown
+colour.
+
+
+Transcriber's Notes:
+
+The original makes extensive use of sidenotes, and several sidenotes
+are often associated with a single paragraph, especially within the
+final chapter. Because of this, inline sidenotes have been used and
+are positioned as close to the relevant passage as was possible during
+proofing.
+
+Old spellings are retained, e.g. musquitoes, felspar, Esquimaux,
+kaiyacks, imbedded, incloses, inclosing, inquiry, inquiries, moveable,
+incrusted, trowsers, bivouack, referrible, teazing. Both vallies and
+valleys are used interchangably and this has not altered. Names with
+suffixes "Mc" or "Mac" written as "M'" throughout text; this convention
+is retained. Only printer's errors have been corrected.
+
+"A.M." and "P.M." are shown without an internal space--spaces have been
+removed where they were present in manuscript. Usage was inconsistent,
+perhaps to better justify text. Internal spaces have also been removed
+from initials such as R.N., F.R.S., K.G., &c., to improve rewrap
+behaviour. Decimal points were locally denoted by commas. This
+convention is replaced by standard decimal point notation throughout.
+Degree, minute and second have been spelled out, replacing symbols in
+the original.
+
+Lengthy quotations were denoted by a leading quotation mark in the first
+column of each line. They are replaced with standard opening and closing
+quotation marks for each quoted passage.
+
+Italic text is surrounded by _underscores_. Greek letters are only used
+in a single paragraph concerning astronomy on page 244 and have been
+written as their English names. Small caps have been rendered as upper
+case. The oe ligature symbol in the original is represented by oe in
+this text.
+
+"Dog-Rib" Indians were sometimes referred to as "Dog-rib".  Usage is now
+"Dog-Rib" throughout.
+
+Specific corrections made to text follow. Note that examples are given
+after a colon and are the corrected text. All other printer's errors
+remain.
+
+  Page    Comment
+  ----------------------------------------------------------------------
+  14,51,79 "water-proof" changed to "waterproof".
+  16      "depot" changed to "depôt".
+  17      "Hudsons's Bay Company" corrected to "Hudson's Bay Company".
+          "bat-/teau" corrected to "bateau" to be consistent with rest
+            of text.  Typo was across end of line hyphen.
+  24      "Hudson's Bay-Company" corrected to "Hudson's Bay Company".
+  25      "was dragged by other eight men" corrected to "was dragged by
+            another eight men".
+  26      "Riviere" corrected to "Rivière".
+          "Hudson" corrected to "Hudson's".
+  27      "or" corrected to "on": "live on dried provision".
+  28      "depend" corrected to "depends".
+  29      "chace" corrected to "chase". Whilst both forms are acceptable
+            for the time, both were used in the book.  The change makes
+            everything consistent. See also page 65.
+          "of" inserted: "under the roof of our hospitable friend".
+  30      "Winnipeg" corrected to "Winipeg" to be consistent with rest
+            of manuscript.
+  32,51   "northwest" corrected to "north-west" for consistency.
+  34      "eastermost" corrected to "easternmost".
+  39,53,65,96,202 "day-light" changed to daylight".
+  42      "sandbanks" changed to "sand-banks" for consistency with rest
+            of manuscript.
+  48,51   "rein deer" corrected to "rein-deer" twice on this page to
+          be consistent with rest of manuscript.
+  52,299  "lydianstone" corrected to "lydian-stone".
+  49      "Rocky mountains" capitalised to "Rocky Mountains".
+  52      "occurence" corrected to "occurrence".
+  53      "chissel" changed to "chisel": "ice-chisel".
+          Inserted comma after "ice-chisel" to correct list punctuation.
+  54      "Cannon-shot" changed to "Cannon-Shot" for consistency in
+            place name "Cannon-Shot Reach".
+  56      "where-ever" across end of line changed to "wherever" twice on
+            this page.
+  62      "skreening" amended to "screening": "screening us from the
+            snow".
+  65      "bag-pipes" to "bagpipes".
+          "chace" corrected to "chase".
+  70      "Chepewyan" corrected to "Chipewyan".
+          "invariable" corrected to "invariably": "the needle almost
+            invariably remained stationary".
+  77      "temperature in the shade +8 degrees 5 minutes": odd use of
+            minutes noted. It is not immediately obvious what is
+            intended.
+  80      "dimunition" corrected to "diminution".
+  83      "canvass" corrected to "canvas": "waterproof canvas".
+  88      "aud" corrected to "and": "iron-work, knives, and beads".
+  92      "northeast" changed to "north-east".
+  94      "Francois" changed to "François".
+          "westermost" changed to "westernmost".
+  95      "36' N" changed to "36' N.".
+  101     "mall" corrected to "small": "so small a number".
+  109     "mases" to "masses": "the larger masses".
+  111     "Copper-mine" to "Coppermine": "the Coppermine River".
+          "tatoed" to "tattoed": "men being tattoed".
+  112,119,130,132,172,173,190 "oomiacks" changed to "oomiaks".
+  115     "Rocky mountains" capitalised to "Rocky Mountains".
+  117     "liittle" to "little": "our little friend".
+  122     "seperated" corrected to "separated".
+  124     "ancle" amended to "ankle".
+  126     "Dip" made lower-case "dip" since mid-sentence.
+  129     "British chain" changed to "British Chain" for consistency.
+  132     "visiters" corrected to "visitors".
+          "oomiack" corrected to "oomiak".
+  132,148,152,190 "oomiack" corrected to "oomiak".
+  146     "ice chissel" changed to "ice-chisel".
+  147     "and the main, that when" changed to "and the main than when"
+            to correct typos.
+  148     "Humphreys" changed to "Humphrys" to be consistent.
+  156     "Capitalised start of sentence: "be killed? You are active".
+          Added closing quotation marks after "depart instantly".
+  157     "hair skins" changed to "hare skins" since "their dress
+            consisting principally of hare skins" is noted on page 247.
+  160     Degree symbol used instead of minute symbol. Correct form:
+            "latitude 69 deg 34 min & 69 deg 44 min N."
+  163     Comma changed to full-stop since it occurs at end of sentence:
+            "white spruce trees. Our voyage amongst these".
+  166     "Richard's" changed to "Richards'" since the governor was John
+            Baker Richards.
+          "island" changed to "Island": "Richards' Island".
+  167     Comma changed to full-stop since it occurs at end of sentence:
+            "intimidation and extortion. When the interview".
+          "kaiyaks" changed to "kaiyacks".
+  173     "harassing" changed to "harrassing".
+  174     It is unclear whether these Eskimo words were meant to have oe
+            or ae. The printer seems to have used the oe ligature
+            indifferently for ae, as sometimes happened at this period.
+            Cf. sertulariæ p. 179 etc. And the only such word in
+            non-italic has ae: Narrakazzæ p. 266. At any rate, later
+            writers certainly seem to have read them all as oe.
+          "peechaw-ooloo" has a macron (overscore) diacritical mark on
+            its final letter; this has been omitted.
+  177     "ice-bergs" changed to "icebergs".
+  180     "Wednesday 12th" changed to "Wednesday, 12th" to be consistent
+            with other sidenotes.
+  184     "grounded-ice" amended to "grounded ice".
+  185     "K'Kinley" corrected to "M'Kinley": "Captain George M'Kinley".
+  189     "sine" changed to "side".
+  190     "ecstacy" changed to "ecstasy".
+          "their wide boots" changed to "their wide hoods", cf. pp. 44,
+          110.
+  195     "head-land" changed to "headland".
+  199     "preservance" corrected to "perseverance".
+          "from" changed to "form": "those which form its western".
+  200     "short-voyage" changed to "short voyage".
+          Comma changed to full-stop since it occurs at end of sentence:
+            "south-east direction. We landed a little to the eastward".
+  202     "head-lands" changed to "headlands".
+          "day-light" changed to daylight".
+  204     "closenes" corrected to "closeness".
+  207     "lime-stone" corrected to "limestone".
+  208     "deers-meat" corrected to "deer-meat".
+  211     "semed" corrected to "seemed": "seemed to contain".
+  214     "lime-stone" corrected to "limestone".
+  225     "several of of them" changed to "several of them". Word was
+            repeated across end of line.
+          "dimunition" corrected to "diminution": "suffered some
+            diminution".
+  226     Comma changed to full-stop since it occurs at end of sentence:
+            "on their route to Bear Lake. The ridges of hill".
+  227     "ecstacy" corrected to "ecstasy".
+  230     "68" changed to "66": 3 days ago they were at 67° 10', heading
+            SW; the northernmost point of Great Bear Lake is at about
+            67°.
+  232     "Thursday 24th" changed to "Thursday, 24th" to be consistent with
+            other sidenotes.
+          "I I therefore embarked" changed to "I therefore embarked";
+            repeat was across line break.
+  237     "Krusensten" changed to "Krusenstern" since the latter is used
+            in the rest of the text.
+  240     "indvalids" corrected to "invalids".
+  244     "extrordinary" corrected to "extraordinary"
+          "Corona" corrected to "Coronæ".
+  245     "+30.5 degrees." changed to "+30.5 degrees,".
+  246     "re-appearance" corrected to "reappearance".
+  257     "house changed to "House".
+  261     "depots" changed to "depôts".
+  268     "sulphat" corrected to "sulphate": "crystals of sulphate of
+            iron".
+  271     "moses" corrected to "mosses": "is covered a foot deep, or
+            more, by mosses".
+  274     "off" corrected to "of": "at the bottom of the cliff".
+  278     "sandsone" corrected to "sandstone".
+  279     "sand-stones" corrected to "sandstones".
+          "oscasionally" corrected to "occasionally".
+  280     "clay-stone" to "claystone".
+  283     "long;" changed to "long.;".
+  284     "formation" corrected to "formations": "similar formations
+            which occupy".
+  285     "limetone" corrected to "limestone".
+  290     "swells gently into a hill several feet high"; should this be
+            "several hundred feet high"?
+          "Horn Mountain" changed to "Horn Mountains".
+          "sienities" changed to "sienites".
+  293     "in some, reaches" changed to "in some reaches,".
+          Footnote 36: "very-fine grained" changed to "very fine-grained.
+  295     "specifind" corrected to "specified".
+          "sphoeroidalis" corrected to "sphæroidalis".
+          "corbrash" corrected to "cornbrash".
+  296     Removed spurious opening quotation mark before "ramparts",
+            thereby balancing quotation marks.
+  297     "terrebratula" corrected to "terebratula".
+  303     "coasted" changed to "coated".
+  308     "othoceratites" changed to "orthoceratites".
+  318     "Sowbery" changed to "Sowerby".
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Narrative of a Second Expedition to
+the Shores of the Polar Sea, by John Franklin and John Richardson
+
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+
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Narrative of a Second Expedition to the
+Shores of the Polar Sea, by John Franklin and John Richardson
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Narrative of a Second Expedition to the Shores of the Polar Sea
+
+Author: John Franklin
+        John Richardson
+
+Release Date: August 19, 2010 [EBook #33467]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NARRATIVE: THE POLAR SEA ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Carlo Traverso, Adam Styles and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This
+file was produced from images generously made available
+by the Bibliothèque nationale de France (BnF/Gallica) at
+http://gallica.bnf.fr)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+</pre>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_i" id="Page_i">[Pg i]</a></span></p>
+
+<h3>N&nbsp;A&nbsp;R&nbsp;R&nbsp;A&nbsp;T&nbsp;I&nbsp;V&nbsp;E</h3> <h3>OF A SECOND
+EXPEDITION</h3> <h4>TO THE SHORES OF</h4> <h1>T&nbsp;H&nbsp;E&nbsp;&nbsp;
+P&nbsp;O&nbsp;L&nbsp;A&nbsp;R&nbsp;&nbsp; S&nbsp;E&nbsp;A,</h1> <h5>IN THE YEARS</h5>
+<h3>1825, 1826, <small><small>AND</small></small> 1827,</h3>
+
+<h2>BY JOHN FRANKLIN,</h2> <h6>CAPT. R.N., F.R.S., &amp;C. AND COMMANDER OF THE
+EXPEDITION.</h6>
+
+<hr style='width: 20%;' />
+
+<h4>INCLUDING AN ACCOUNT OF THE PROGRESS OF A<br /> DETACHMENT TO THE EASTWARD,</h4>
+
+<h3>BY JOHN RICHARDSON, M.D., F.R.S., F.L.S., &amp;c.</h3> <h6>SURGEON AND NATURALIST
+TO THE EXPEDITION.</h6>
+
+<hr style='width: 20%;' />
+
+<h4>PUBLISHED BY AUTHORITY OF THE RIGHT HONOURABLE THE<br /> SECRETARY OF STATE
+FOR COLONIAL AFFAIRS.</h4>
+
+<hr style='width: 15%;' />
+
+<h2><b>Philadelphia:</b></h2> <h4><b>CAREY, LEA, AND CAREY&mdash;CHESNUT STREET.</b></h4>
+
+<h6>SOLD IN NEW YORK BY G. AND C. CARVILL&mdash;IN BOSTON BY MUNROE<br /> AND
+FRANCIS.</h6>
+
+<hr style='width: 10%;' />
+
+<h3><b>1828.</b></h3>
+
+<hr style='width: 45%;' /> <p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_ii" id="Page_ii">[Pg ii]</a></span></p>
+
+<h6 class="left"><span class="overline">W. PILKINGTON &amp; CO. PRINTERS.</span></h6>
+
+<hr style='width: 45%;' /> <p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_iii" id="Page_iii">[Pg iii]</a></span></p>
+
+<h5>TO</h5>
+
+<h5>THE RIGHT HONOURABLE</h5> <h3><b>THE EARL BATHURST, K.G.,</b></h3> <h6>LORD PRESIDENT OF HIS
+MAJESTY'S COUNCIL,</h6> <h5>&amp;c. &amp;c. &amp;c.</h5>
+
+<h5>THE FOLLOWING</h5>
+
+<h4>NARRATIVE OF A SECOND JOURNEY OF DISCOVERY ALONG<br /> THE NORTHERN COAST OF
+AMERICA,</h4>
+
+<h5>UNDERTAKEN BY ORDER AND UNDER THE AUSPICES</h5> <h5>OF HIS LORDSHIP,</h5> <h5>IS, BY
+PERMISSION, INSCRIBED</h5> <h5>WITH GREAT RESPECT AND GRATITUDE,</h5> <h6>BY</h6>
+
+<h3>THE AUTHOR.</h3>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_iv" id="Page_iv">[Pg iv]</a></span><br /></p>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" /> <p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_v" id="Page_v">[Pg v]</a></span></p> <h2><a name="CONTENTS" id="CONTENTS"></a>CONTENTS.</h2> <hr style='width: 5%;' />
+
+<table style="width: 100%;"><tr><td class="td92"></td><td class="td8"><i>Page</i></td></tr> <tr><td class="td92">Introductory Chapter</td><td class="td8"><a href="#Page_ix">ix</a></td></tr> <tr><td class="td92">Official Instructions</td><td class="td8"><a href="#Page_xix">xix</a></td></tr></table>
+
+<table><tr align="center"><td><br />CHAPTER I.</td></tr></table> <table><tr valign="bottom"><td class="td92"> <p class="hang">Join the Boats in the Methye River&mdash;Cross the Long
+Portage&mdash;Arrival at Fort Chipewyan&mdash;Departure from thence with
+the whole party for Mackenzie River&mdash;Arrangements at Fort
+Norman&mdash;Descent to the Sea&mdash;Return to the Winter Quarters at
+Great Bear Lake</p></td> <td class="td8"><a href="#Page_23">23</a></td></tr></table>
+
+<table><tr align="center"><td><br />CHAPTER II.</td></tr></table> <table style="width: 100%;"><tr valign="bottom"><td class="td92"> <p class="hang">Transactions at Fort Franklin, 1825-6</p></td> <td class="td8"><a href="#Page_61">61</a></td></tr></table>
+
+<table><tr align="center"><td><br />CHAPTER III.</td></tr></table> <table><tr valign="bottom"><td class="td92"> <p class="hang">Voyage to the Sea&mdash;Part from the Eastern Detachment
+at Point Separation&mdash;Reach the Mouth of the
+Mackenzie&mdash;Interview and Contest with the Esquimaux&mdash;Detained
+by Ice&mdash;Meet friendly Esquimaux&mdash;Point Sabine</p></td> <td class="td8"><a href="#Page_87">87</a></td></tr></table>
+
+<table><tr align="center"><td><br />CHAPTER IV.</td></tr></table> <table><tr valign="bottom"><td class="td92"> <p class="hang">Babbage River&mdash;Meet Natives at Herschel
+Island&mdash;Their Trade with the Russians, through the Western
+Esquimaux&mdash;Ascend Mount Conybeare&mdash;Boundary of the British
+Dominions on this Coast&mdash;Delayed at Icy Reef&mdash;Barter
+Island&mdash;Detention at Foggy Island&mdash;Return Reef&mdash;Limit of
+outward Voyage</p></td> <td class="td8"><a href="#Page_114">114</a></td></tr></table>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_vi" id="Page_vi">[Pg vi]</a></span></p>
+
+<table><tr align="center"><td><br />CHAPTER V.</td></tr></table> <table><tr valign="bottom"><td class="td92"> <p class="hang">Commence Return to the Mackenzie&mdash;Delayed again at
+Foggy Island&mdash;Ice packed on the Reefs near Beaufort Bay, and on the
+Coast about Clarence River&mdash;Pass the Channels near Herschel Island
+in a Gale and Fog&mdash;A sudden Gale&mdash;Escape an Attack which the
+Mountain Indians meditated&mdash;Enter the Mackenzie&mdash;Peel
+River&mdash;Arrival at Fort Franklin</p></td> <td class="td8"><a href="#Page_141">141</a></td></tr></table>
+
+<hr style='width: 5%;' /> <table><tr><td><i>Dr. Richardson's Narrative of the Proceedings of the Eastern
+Detachment of the Expedition.</i> </td></tr></table>
+
+<table><tr align="center"><td><br />CHAPTER I.</td></tr></table> <table><tr valign="bottom"><td class="td92"> <p class="hang">Leave Point Separation, and descend the Eastern Channel of
+the Mackenzie&mdash;Arrive at Sacred Island&mdash;Esquimaux
+Graves&mdash;Interview with the Natives; their thievish
+disposition&mdash;Attempt to gain possession of the Union&mdash;Heavy
+Gale&mdash;Find shelter in Refuge Cove&mdash;Low
+Coast&mdash;Mirage&mdash;Stopped by Ice at Point Toker&mdash;Reach the
+Sea</p></td> <td class="td8"><a href="#Page_162">162</a></td></tr></table>
+
+<table><tr align="center"><td><br />CHAPTER II.</td></tr></table> <table><tr valign="bottom"><td class="td92"> <p class="hang">Detention by wind&mdash;Visited by the
+Esquimaux&mdash;Cross a large Stream of Fresh Water&mdash;Winter Houses
+on Atkinson Island&mdash;Gale of Wind and Fog&mdash;Run into Browell
+Cove&mdash;Double Cape Dalhousie&mdash;Liverpool Bay and Esquimaux
+Lake&mdash;Icy Cliffs&mdash;Meet another party of Esquimaux&mdash;Cape
+Bathurst</p></td> <td class="td8"><a href="#Page_180">180</a></td></tr></table>
+
+<table><tr align="center"><td><br />CHAPTER III.</td></tr></table> <table><tr valign="bottom"><td class="td92"> <p class="hang">Double Cape Bathurst&mdash;Whales&mdash;Bituminous-shale
+Cliffs on Fire&mdash;Enter Franklin Bay&mdash;Heavy Gale&mdash;Peninsula
+of Cape Parry&mdash;Perforated Rock&mdash;Detention at Cape Lyon by
+Wind&mdash;Force of an Esquimaux Arrow&mdash;Meet with heavy
+Ice&mdash;Pass Union and Dolphin Straits&mdash;Double Cape Krusenstern,
+and enter George the Fourth's Coronation Gulph&mdash;Reach the
+Coppermine River&mdash;Remarks&mdash;Meteorological Table</p></td> <td class="td8"><a href="#Page_193">193</a></td></tr></table>
+
+<table><tr align="center"><td><br />CHAPTER IV.</td></tr></table> <table><tr valign="bottom"><td class="td92"> <p class="hang">Ascend the Coppermine River&mdash;Abandon the Boats and
+Stores&mdash;Commence the Land Journey&mdash;Cross the Copper Mountains
+and Height of Land&mdash;Meet Indians who bring Provisions&mdash;Arrive
+at Great Bear Lake&mdash;Detained by want of a Boat&mdash;Send out
+Hunters&mdash;Arrival of Beaulieu&mdash;Collect the Party, and proceed
+to Fort Franklin&mdash;Conclusion</p></td> <td class="td8"><a href="#Page_222">222</a></td></tr></table>
+
+<hr style='width: 5%;' /> <p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_vii" id="Page_vii">[Pg vii]</a></span></p> <table><tr><td><i>Captain Franklin's Narrative resumed.</i></td></tr></table>
+
+<table><tr align="center"><td><br />CHAPTER VI.</td></tr></table> <table><tr valign="bottom"><td class="td92"> <p class="hang">Brief Notices of the Second Winter at Bear
+Lake&mdash;Traditions of the Dog-Ribs&mdash;Leave Fort
+Franklin&mdash;Winter Journey to Fort Chipewyan&mdash;Remarks on the
+progress of improvement in the Fur Countries&mdash;Set out in Canoes on
+the Voyage Homeward&mdash;Join Dr. Richardson at Cumberland
+House&mdash;Mr. Drummond's Narrative&mdash;Arrival in Canada, at New
+York, and London</p></td> <td class="td8"><a href="#Page_238">238</a></td></tr></table>
+
+<hr style='width: 5%;' />
+
+<h2>APPENDIX.</h2> <table width="100%"><tr><td class="td92l"> Topographical and Geological Notices, by Dr. Richardson, R.N.</td>
+<td class="td8"><a href="#Page_263">263</a></td></tr></table>
+
+<hr style='width: 5%;' />
+
+<p>An account of the objects of Natural History, collected on our journey
+being too voluminous to be inserted in the Appendix, has been reserved
+for a separate work which will be published as soon as possible, by Dr.
+Richardson and Professor Hooker, under the sanction, and by the
+assistance, of His Majesty's Government.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_viii" id="Page_viii">[Pg viii]</a></span></p> <hr style="width: 65%;" /> <p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_ix" id="Page_ix">[Pg ix]</a></span></p> <h2><a name="INTRODUCTORY_CHAPTER" id="INTRODUCTORY_CHAPTER"></a>INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER.</h2> <hr style='width: 5%;' />
+
+<p><span class="smcap">His</span> Majesty's Government having, towards the close of the year 1823,
+determined upon another attempt to effect a northern passage by sea
+between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, and Captain Parry, the highly
+distinguished Commander of the two preceding Expeditions, having been
+again entrusted with its execution, success, as far as ability,
+enterprise, and experience could ensure it, appeared likely to be the
+result. Yet, as the object was one for which Great Britain had thought
+proper to contend for upwards of three centuries, it seemed to me that
+it might be desirable to pursue it by more ways than one; I therefore
+ventured to lay before His Majesty's Government a plan for an Expedition
+overland to the mouth of the Mackenzie River, and thence, by sea, to the
+northwestern extremity of America, with the combined object, also, of
+surveying the coast between the Mackenzie and Coppermine Rivers.</p>
+
+<p>I was well aware of the sympathy excited in the British public by the
+sufferings of those engaged in the former overland Expedition to the
+mouth of the Coppermine River, and of the humane repugnance of His
+Majesty's Government to expose others to a like fate; but I was enabled
+to show satisfactorily that, in the proposed course, similar dangers
+were not to be apprehended, while the objects to be attained were
+important at once to the naval character, scientific reputation, and
+commercial interests of Great Britain; and I received directions from
+the Right Honourable Earl Bathurst to make the necessary preparations
+for the equipment of the Expedition, to the command of which I had the
+honour to be nominated.</p>
+
+<p>My much valued friend, Dr. Richardson, offered his services <span class='pagenum'><a
+name="Page_x" id="Page_x">[Pg x]</a></span>as Naturalist and Surgeon, and also
+volunteered to undertake the survey of the coast between the Mackenzie
+and Coppermine Rivers, while I should be occupied in endeavouring to
+reach Icy Cape.</p>
+
+<p>Lieutenant Bushnan, who had served under Captains Ross and Parry on
+their voyages of discovery, was also appointed to accompany me; but,
+long before the party was to leave England, I had to lament the
+premature death of that excellent young officer, who was eminently
+qualified for the situation, by his skill in astronomical observations,
+surveying, and drawing. Many naval officers, distinguished for their
+talent and ability, were desirous of filling the vacancy; but my friend
+and former companion, Lieutenant Back, having returned from the West
+Indies, the appointment was offered to him, and accepted with his wonted
+zeal.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. E.N. Kendall, Admiralty Mate, and recently assistant Surveyor with
+Captain Lyon, was appointed to accompany Dr. Richardson in his voyage to
+the eastward, and to do the duty of an Assistant-Surveyor to the
+Expedition at large, whilst it continued united. Lastly, Mr. Thomas
+Drummond, of Forfar, was appointed Assistant Naturalist, on the
+recommendation of Professor Hooker, and other eminent scientific men.</p>
+
+<p>A residence in the northern parts of America, where the party must
+necessarily depend for subsistence on the daily supply of fish, or on
+the still more precarious success of Indian hunters, involves many
+duties which require the superintendence of a person of long experience
+in the management of the fisheries, and in the arrangement of the
+Canadian voyagers and Indians: we had many opportunities, during the
+former voyage, of being acquainted with the qualifications of Mr. Peter
+Warren Dease, Chief Trader of the Hudson's Bay Company, for these
+services, and I therefore procured the sanction of His Majesty's
+Government for his being employed on the Expedition.</p>
+
+<p>As soon as I had authority from Earl Bathurst, I entered into a
+correspondence with the Governor and Directors of the Hudson's Bay
+Company; and these gentlemen, taking the most lively interest in the
+objects of the Expedition, promised their utmost support to it, and
+forthwith sent injunctions to their officers in the Fur Countries to
+provide the necessary dep&ocirc;ts of provision at the places which I
+pointed out, and to give every other aid in their power. I also wrote to
+the different Chief Factors and Chief Traders of the Company, who
+resided on the route of the Expedition, explaining its objects, and
+requesting their co-operation.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_xi" id="Page_xi">[Pg xi]</a></span></p> <p><i>Pemmican</i>, the principal article of provision used in
+travelling, being made during the winter and spring, the orders for
+providing the extra quantity required for the Expedition, though sent
+out from England by the earliest conveyance, so as to reach the
+provision posts in the summer of 1824, could not be put into effect
+sooner than the spring of 1825; hence, it was not proper that the main
+body of the Expedition should reach the Fur Countries before the latter
+period. Some stores were forwarded from England, by way of New York, in
+March 1824, under charge of Mr. Robert M'Vicar, Chief Trader, for the
+purpose of relieving the Expedition as much as possible from the
+incumbrance of heavy baggage, and thus enabling it, by marching quickly,
+to reach its intended winter-quarters at Great Bear Lake, as well as to
+provide for its more comfortable reception at that place. These stores,
+with the addition of other articles obtained in Canada, sufficed to load
+three north canoes, manned by eighteen voyagers; and they were delivered
+by Mr. M'Vicar, before the winter set in, to Mr. Dease, at the Athabasca
+Lake. Mr. Dease was instructed to support his party by fishing at Great
+Slave Lake, during the winter of 1824-25; and, early in the spring of
+1825, to proceed to Great Bear Lake, and commence the necessary
+buildings for the reception of the Expedition. I may here cursorily
+remark that, in selecting Great Bear Lake as our winter residence, I was
+influenced by the information I had obtained of its being the place
+nearest to the mouth of the Mackenzie, known to the traders, where a
+sufficient supply of fish could be procured for the support of so large
+a party.</p>
+
+<p>Three light boats, which I shall soon more particularly describe, were
+also sent out to York Factory, in June 1824, in the annual Hudson's Bay
+ship, together with a further supply of stores, two carpenters, and a
+party of men, with a view of their reaching Cumberland House, on the
+Saskatchawan River, the same season; and starting from thence as soon as
+the navigation opened in the following spring, that they might be as far
+as possible advanced on their way to Bear Lake before they were
+overtaken by the Officers of the Expedition. The latter proceeding by
+way of New York and Canada, would have the advantage of an earlier
+spring in travelling through the more southern districts; and, further
+to expedite their progress, I directed two <i>large</i> canoes (can&ocirc;ts
+de ma&icirc;tre,) with the necessary equipments and stores, to be
+deposited at Penetanguishene, the naval dep&ocirc;t of Lake Huron, in
+the autumn of 1824, to await our arrival in the following spring; having
+been inform<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_xii" id="Page_xii">[Pg xii]</a></span>ed that, in ordinary seasons, we should, by
+commencing our voyage at that place, arrive in the north-west country
+ten days earlier than by the usual way of proceeding up the Utawas River
+from Montreal.</p>
+
+<p>The return of the Hudson's Bay ship towards the close of the year 1824,
+brought me satisfactory intelligence of the progress of the
+above-mentioned parties, together with the most pleasing assurances from
+the Gentlemen of the Company to whom I had written, of their zeal in our
+cause; and here I must express the deep sense I have of the kindness of
+the late Honourable William M'Gillivray, of Montreal, whose experience
+enabled him to give me many valuable suggestions relating to the
+clothing and subsistence of the party, and to the supplies proper for
+the Indians.</p>
+
+<p>In connexion with the above sketch of the preparatory steps taken in the
+course of the year 1824, it may be proper to give, in this place, a
+short account of the general equipments of the Expedition.</p>
+
+<p>And first, with regard to the vessels intended for the navigation of the
+Arctic Sea: birch-bark canoes, uniting lightness and facility of repair
+with speed, are certainly well adapted for navigating the rivers of
+America, but they are much too slight to bear the concussion of waves in
+a rough sea, and they are still less fitted, from the tenderness of the
+bark, for coming in contact with ice. I therefore requested of the Lords
+Commissioners of the Admiralty that <i>three</i> boats might be constructed
+under my superintendence; and they were immediately ordered and promptly
+finished under the directions of the Commissioners of the Navy. To fit
+them for the ascent and descent of the many rapids between York Factory
+and Mackenzie River; and to render their transport over the numerous
+portages more easy, it was necessary to have them as small, and of as
+light a construction as possible; and, in fact, as much like a north
+canoe as was consistent with the stability and capacity required for
+their voyage at sea. They were built of mahogany, with timbers of ash,
+both ends exactly alike, and fitted to be steered either with a
+sweep-oar or a rudder. The largest, twenty-six feet long, and five feet
+four inches broad, was adapted for six rowers, a steersman, and an
+officer; it could be borne on the shoulders of six men, and was found,
+on trial, to be capable of carrying three tons weight in addition to the
+crew. The two others were each twenty-four feet long, four feet ten
+inches broad, and were capable of receiving a crew of five men, a
+steersman, and an officer, with an additional <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_xiii" id="Page_xiii">[Pg xiii]</a></span>weight of two and
+a half tons. The greatest care was paid to their construction by Mr.
+Cow, boat-builder of Woolwich Yard; and, as I could not often be
+present, my friend Captain Buchan, R.N., kindly undertook to report
+their progress; and I am further indebted to him for many valuable
+suggestions which were acted upon.</p>
+
+<p>When the boats were finished, they were tried at Woolwich, in the
+presence of many naval and military officers, as to their qualities of
+sailing, rowing, and paddling, and found to answer fully the
+expectations that had been formed of them. At the same time we tried
+another little vessel belonging to the Expedition, named the
+Walnut-Shell, the invention and construction of which I owe to my friend
+Lieutenant-Colonel Pasley, of the Royal Engineers. Its length was nine
+feet, its breadth four feet four inches, and it was framed of
+well-seasoned ash, fastened with thongs, covered with Mr. Mackintosh's
+prepared canvas, and shaped like one valve of a walnut-shell, whence its
+appellation. It weighed only eighty-five pounds, could, when taken to
+pieces, be made up in five or six parcels, and was capable of being put
+together in less than twenty minutes. So secure was this little vessel,
+that several ladies, who had honoured the trial of the boats with their
+presence, fearlessly embarked in it, and were paddled across the Thames
+in a fresh breeze. It was intended to provide against a similar
+detention in crossing rivers to that which proved so fatal to our party
+on the former journey; and it was also thought, that this little bark
+would be found useful in procuring water-fowl on the small lakes, to
+which the boats could not be conveyed.</p>
+
+<p>In the choice of astronomical instruments I was necessarily guided by
+their portability. Our stock consisted of two small sextants, two
+artificial horizons, two altitude instruments, a repeating circle for
+lunar observations, and a small transit telescope for ascertaining the
+rates of the chronometers. We had a dipping needle mounted on Meyer's
+plan, a plain needle very delicately fitted for observing the diurnal
+variation; two of Kater's azimuth compasses, and a pocket compass for
+each officer. The atmospherical instruments were two electrometers, two
+of Daniel's hygrometers, Leslie's photometer and hygrometer, besides a
+good supply of mercurial and spirit thermometers of different sizes. The
+magnetic instruments were examined in concert with my friend Captain
+Sabine, previous to my departure from London; and the observations that
+were obtained for dip and intensity, served as points of comparison for
+our future results.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_xiv" id="Page_xiv">[Pg xiv]</a></span></p> <p>The stores consisted of bedding and clothing, including two
+suits of waterproof dresses for each person, prepared by Mr. Mackintosh,
+of Glasgow; our guns had the same bore with the fowling-pieces, supplied
+by the Hudson's Bay Company to the Indian hunters, that is, twenty-eight
+balls to the pound; their locks were tempered to withstand the cold of
+the winter; and a broad Indian dagger, which could also be used as a
+knife, was fitted to them, like a bayonet. Ammunition of the best
+quality was provided by the Ordnance, the powder being secured in small
+field or boat magazines. A quantity of wheaten-flour, arrow-root,
+macaroni, portable-soup, chocolate, essence of coffee, sugar, and tea,
+calculated to last two years, was also supplied, made up into packages
+of eighty-five pounds, and covered with three layers of prepared
+waterproof canvas, of which material coverings for the cargo of each
+boat were also made.</p>
+
+<p>There was likewise an ample stock of tobacco, a small quantity of wine
+and spirits, marquees and tents for the men and officers, some books,
+writing and drawing paper, a considerable quantity of cartridge-paper,
+to be used in preserving specimens of plants; nets, twine, fishing-lines
+and hooks, together with many articles to be used at winter-quarters,
+for the service of the post, and for the supply of our Indian hunters,
+such as cloth, blankets, shirts, coloured belts, chiefs' dresses, combs,
+looking-glasses, beads, tapes, gartering, knives, guns and daggers,
+hatchets, awls, gun-worms, flints, fire-steels, files, whip and
+hand-saws, ice-chisels and trenching-irons, the latter to break open the
+beaver lodges.</p>
+
+<p>As the mode of travelling through the Hudson's Bay territories, with all
+its difficulties and hazards, is now well known to the public, I think
+it better to give in this Introductory Chapter a slight outline of our
+route through the United States, Upper Canada, and Southern part of the
+Fur Countries, and to commence the detailed Narrative of the proceedings
+of the Expedition with its arrival in Methye River, where the officers
+joined the boats that had been sent out from England in the preceding
+year.</p>
+
+<p>On the 16th of February, 1825, I embarked with Lieutenant Back, Dr.
+Richardson, Mr. Kendall, Mr. Drummond, and four marines, at Liverpool,
+on board the American packet-ship, Columbia, Captain Lee; and, on
+quitting the pier, we were honoured by a salute of three animating
+cheers, from a crowd of the principal inhabitants, who had assembled to
+witness our departure. The passage across the Atlantic was favourable
+and pleasant, and our reception at New York kind in the extreme. <span class='pagenum'><a
+name="Page_xv" id="Page_xv">[Pg xv]</a></span>We landed at that city on the 15th of
+March, and our baggage and stores were instantly passed through the
+Custom-House without inspection. Cards of admission to the Public
+Scientific Institutions were forwarded to us the same evening, and
+during our stay every other mark of attention was shown by the civil and
+naval authorities, as well as by private individuals, indicating the
+lively interest which they took in our enterprise.</p>
+
+<p>James Buchanan, Esq., the British Consul, in addition to many other
+attentions, kindly undertook to accommodate a journey he had to make to
+Upper Canada, so as to accompany us through the State of New York. After
+a stay of eight days in the city, for the purpose of obtaining the rates
+of the chronometers, and for making some other observations with Meyer's
+dipping needle, we embarked under the Consul's guidance, in the
+steam-boat Olive Branch, and ascended the Hudson River, to Albany, where
+we experienced similar civilities to those we had received at New York.
+Every body seemed to desire our success, and a fervent prayer for our
+preservation and welfare was offered up by the Reverend Dr. Christie,
+the minister of the church that we attended. The Honourable De Witt
+Clinton, the Governor of the State, assured me, that had we not been
+accompanied by a gentleman so conversant in the different routes and
+modes of travelling as Mr. Buchanan, he would have sent his son with us,
+or would himself have conducted us to the confines of the State.</p>
+
+<p>From Albany, we travelled through Utica, Rochester, and Geneva, to
+Leweston, in coaches, with more or less rapidity, according to the
+condition of the roads; and, crossing the river Niagara, entered Canada,
+and visited the Falls so justly celebrated as the first in the world for
+grandeur. We next crossed Lake Ontario in a sailing boat, and came to
+York the capital of Upper Canada, where we were kindly received by the
+Lieutenant-Governor Sir Peregrine Maitland, and by Colonel Cockburn and
+the Commissioners then employed on an inquiry respecting the value of
+the Crown Lands. From York we passed on to Lake Simcoe, in carts and
+other conveyances, halting for a night at the hospitable house of Mr.
+Robinson of Newmarket. We crossed Lake Simcoe in canoes and boats, and
+landed near the upper part of Kempenfeldt Bay, but not without being
+obliged to break our way through the ice for a short distance. A journey
+of nine miles, performed on foot, brought us to the River Nattawassaga,
+which we descended in a boat; and passing through a part of Lake Huron,
+arrived at Penetanguishene. At this place, we were hospitably
+entertained by Lieu<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_xvi" id="Page_xvi">[Pg xvi]</a></span>tenant, now Captain Douglass, during eight
+days that we waited for the arrival of our Canadian voyagers from
+Montreal.</p>
+
+<p>We left Penetanguishene on St. George's day (23d April) in the two large
+canoes, which had been deposited at that place in the preceding autumn,
+our party, by the accession of the voyagers, now amounted to
+thirty-three; and after a few days detention by ice, and bad weather, we
+reached Sault de St. Marie on the 1st of May, being ten days or a
+fortnight earlier than the oldest resident remembered a canoe from
+Canada to have arrived. From the Sault de St. Marie, we coasted the
+northern shore of Lake Superior to Fort William, formerly the great
+dep&ocirc;t of the N.W. Company, where we arrived on the 10th of May. We
+now exchanged our two <i>can&ocirc;ts de ma&icirc;tre</i> for four small
+north canoes, in one of which, more lightly laden, Dr. Richardson and I
+embarked, with the view of proceeding as rapidly as possible to arrange
+supplies of provision at the different posts, while Lieutenant Back was
+left to bring up the three remaining and more deeply laden canoes.</p>
+
+<p>We proceeded by the route delineated in the maps through Rainy Lake, the
+Lake of the Woods, Lake Winipeg, and the Saskatchawan River to
+Cumberland House, where we arrived on the 15th of June, and learned that
+our boats had left that place on the 2d of the same month. We found also
+with deep regret, that Thomas Mathews, the principal carpenter who had
+accompanied the boats from England, had had the misfortune to break his
+leg the evening before their departure. But, fortunately, an officer of
+the Hudson's Bay Company then present, had sufficient skill to set it,
+and Dr. Richardson now pronounced that in two months he would be able to
+come on in one of the Company's canoes, and join us at Bear Lake, which
+he was very desirous of doing. I therefore made arrangements to this
+effect, and also concerning supplies for Mr. Drummond the Assistant
+Naturalist, who was to be employed, during our stay in the north, in
+making collections in the vicinity of the Rocky Mountains.</p>
+
+<p>Having remained one night at Cumberland House, we resumed our voyage,
+and passing through Pine Island Lake, Beaver Lake, crossing the Frog
+Portage, and ascending the English River, with its dilatations, named
+Bear Island, Sandfly, Serpent, Primeau, and Isle &agrave; la Crosse
+Lakes, we came to the post situated on, and named from the latter sheet
+of water, at four <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> on the 25th June. In the course of this voyage,
+we met the Gentlemen of the Hudson's Bay Company proceeding from the
+interior with various brigades of canoes, carrying <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_xvii" id="Page_xvii">[Pg xvii]</a></span>the returns
+of trade for the year to York Factory, and I had not only the
+satisfaction of hearing frequent news of the progress of our boats, but
+that the deposits of provisions I had requested, and the other
+arrangements I had made, were all punctually carried into effect. Mr.
+Spencer, the gentleman in charge at Isle &agrave; la Crosse, informed
+us, that the boats had gone off a few hours previous to our arrival,
+with the addition of a bateau laden with pemmican, under the charge of
+Mr. Fraser, a clerk of the Hudson's Bay Company.</p>
+
+<p>I waited at this establishment one night to obtain astronomical
+observations, and to bespeak an additional quantity of provisions,
+&amp;c., which being satisfactorily done, we resumed our voyage on the
+27th, and, passing through Deep River, Clear and Buffalo Lakes, overtook
+the boats in Methye River, at sunrise on the 29th of June.</p>
+
+<p>Having brought this preliminary sketch up to the date at which the
+ensuing Narrative of the proceedings of the Expedition commences, I turn
+to the pleasing duty of rendering my best thanks to the many gentlemen
+who have assisted me in forwarding its progress. To the Right Honourable
+Earl Bathurst, I am greatly indebted for the readiness with which he
+attended to every suggestion I had to make regarding the equipment of
+the Expedition, and to the Right Honourable Wilmot Horton, the Under
+Colonial Secretary, for his kindness and promptitude in facilitating all
+my views. Nor can I feel less grateful to Lord Viscount Melville, and to
+the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty for their patronage and
+support, as well as to Sir Byam Martin, the Comptroller, and to the
+Commissioners of the Navy and Victualling offices, for the arrangements
+depending on their boards. Mr. Pelly, the Governor of the Hudson's Bay
+Company, and Mr. Garry, the Deputy-Governor, as well as every Member of
+its Committee, claim my most sincere thanks for their unremitting
+endeavours to promote the welfare of the Expedition through its whole
+progress; and I feel truly obliged to Mr. Simpson, the Governor in the
+Fur Countries; to Mr. M'Tavish, Mr. Haldane, Mr. M'Donald, Mr. Leith,
+Mr. Stuart, and Messrs. James and George Keith, Chief Factors, who,
+acting in the spirit of their instructions, were very assiduous in
+collecting provisions and stores for the use of my party, and in
+forwarding all our supplies. There were other gentlemen resident in the
+more northern parts of the country, to whom I am no less obliged for
+advice and assistance; but the brevity requisite in this place
+necessarily compels me to refer to the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_xviii" id="Page_xviii">[Pg xviii]</a></span>Narrative, where their
+names, and the services they rendered, are mentioned.</p>
+
+<p>I cannot, however, close this introductory Chapter, without expressing
+the deepest obligation to those kind friends and excellent officers with
+whom I had the happiness of being associated, who constantly aided me by
+their most cordial co-operation, and whose best efforts were devotedly
+applied to every pursuit which could be interesting to science. Nor can
+I omit to mention the gratitude I owe to each of the seamen, marines,
+British and Canadian voyagers who composed our party at the
+winter-quarters, for their steady obedience and truly good conduct,
+whether in the days of relaxation during the winter, or in the more
+arduous exertions of our summer occupations.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" /> <p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_xix" id="Page_xix">[Pg xix]</a></span></p> <h2><a name="OFFICIAL_INSTRUCTIONS" id="OFFICIAL_INSTRUCTIONS"></a>OFFICIAL INSTRUCTIONS.</h2> <hr style="width: 5%;" />
+
+<p style="text-align:right"><i>Downing-street</i>, 31<i>st Jan</i>. 1825.</p>
+
+<p class="noindent"><span class="smcap">Sir,</span></p>
+
+<p>His Majesty's Government having decided that an Expedition should be set
+forth, for the purpose of exploring the Northern Coast of America,
+between the Mouth of Mackenzie's River, and the Strait of Behring; and
+confiding in your zeal and experience for the due execution of this
+service, I have recommended you as a proper person to be charged with
+the same. You are, therefore, to proceed with your party (a list of whom
+is annexed) by the Packet from Liverpool to New York, and from thence
+make the best of your way to Lake Huron, where the stores necessary for
+your journey have already been sent. Embarking in Canoes, you are from
+thence to follow the water communication to the western side of the
+Great Bear Lake, where you are to establish your winter-quarters; and
+having so done, your first care should be to endeavour to open a
+friendly communication with the Esquimaux.</p>
+
+<p>Early in the Spring of 1826, you are to proceed down the Mackenzie River
+with all the necessary stores and provisions, in order to be prepared to
+take advantage of the first opening of the ice on the Polar Sea, so as
+to enable you to prosecute your voyage along the coast to Icy Cape,
+round which you are to proceed to Kotzebue's Inlet, where you may expect
+to find His Majesty's Ship Blossom, which the Lords Commissioners of the
+Admiralty will order to proceed to that rendezvous, in the Summer of
+1826. But if, on your arrival at Icy Cape, or the northern point of
+Behring's Strait, you should be of opinion that you could, with safety,
+return the same season to the established winter-quarters, you are at
+liberty to do so, instead of proceeding to join the Blossom. You will,
+therefore, with<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_xx" id="Page_xx">[Pg xx]</a></span>out loss of time, settle with Captain Beechey, her
+commander, such a plan as may appear to you, both, best adapted for
+ensuring your meeting together, and establish a code of signals, or
+devise such other means as may tend to give you information, if
+possible, previous to your reaching the longitude of Icy Cape.</p>
+
+<p>On your arrival at the mouth of Mackenzie River, you are to despatch Dr.
+Richardson with Mr. Kendall and five or six men, in one of the boats, to
+examine the intermediate coast between the Mackenzie and Coppermine
+Rivers; but if you should find that the stores and provisions you have
+been able to accumulate are not sufficient for your own and Dr.
+Richardson's party, you are, in that case, to direct Dr. Richardson to
+employ himself and party on shore, in examining the country contiguous
+to the Mackenzie River, the Rocky Mountains, the shores of the Great
+Bear Lake, the Copper Mountains, and as far round as he can with safety,
+collecting specimens of the animals, plants, and minerals, and also
+laying in a stock of provisions sufficient for both parties, if, by any
+unforeseen accident, you should find yourself compelled to return
+without reaching the Blossom.</p>
+
+<p>If, in proceeding westerly towards Icy Cape, you should make but slow
+progress, and find yourself impeded by ice or land jutting out to the
+northward farther than is calculated upon, or from accidents to the
+boats, or any other unforeseen circumstance, so that it remains doubtful
+whether you will be able to reach the neighbourhood of Kotzebue's Inlet
+the same season, you are not to consider yourself authorized to risk
+yourself and party to the chance of being obliged to winter on the
+coast, but commence your return about the 15th or 20th of August to the
+established winter-quarters on Bear Lake, unless you should be satisfied
+that yourself and party could pass the winter with safety among the
+Esquimaux, and that there was afforded a certainty of your reaching
+Behring's Strait the following Season, when the Blossom will again
+proceed to the appointed rendezvous.</p>
+
+<p>In the event of your reaching Kotzebue's Inlet, the first season,
+Captain Beechey will be instructed to convey you and your party in the
+Blossom to the Sandwich Islands or Canton, as may seem most advisable to
+you, from whence you will be able to take a passage to England in one of
+the Company's Ships or Private Traders; and you will leave such
+instructions with Dr. Richardson for his guidance, in the event of your
+being able to accomplish this point, as you may deem fit and proper for
+his return to England.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_xxi" id="Page_xxi">[Pg xxi]</a></span></p> <p>In the event of your death, or any accident which may prevent
+your proceeding, the command of the Expedition must necessarily devolve
+on Lieutenant Back, who is to follow these Instructions; but he is not
+to alter any arrangement with regard to Dr. Richardson's proceedings
+which you may have settled for him to pursue, the principal object of
+Dr. Richardson's accompanying you, being that of completing, as far as
+can be done, our knowledge of the Natural History of North America.
+Lieutenant Back will, therefore, in the event above-mentioned, act in
+concert with Dr. Richardson, but not direct him and his party from any
+plan of operations which he and you may previously have settled.</p>
+
+<p>You will take care to inform me from time to time, as opportunities may
+occur, of your proceedings, and the progress made in the Expedition,
+with the direction of which you are hereby entrusted.</p>
+
+<div class="center"><p>I have the honour to be,<br /> Sir,<br /> <span style="margin-left: 6em;">Your most obedient Servant,</span><br /> <span
+style="margin-left: 16em;">BATHURST.</span></p></div>
+
+<p><i>To Captain Franklin, R.N.,</i><br /> <span style="margin-left: 2.5em;"><i>&amp;c. &amp;c. &amp;c.</i></span><br /></p> <p><span class='pagenum'><a
+name="Page_xxii" id="Page_xxii">[Pg xxii]</a></span></p>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" /> <p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[Pg 23]</a></span></p> <h3><a name="SECOND_JOURNEY_TO_THE_SHORES_OF_THE_POLAR_SEA" id="SECOND_JOURNEY_TO_THE_SHORES_OF_THE_POLAR_SEA"></a>SECOND JOURNEY TO THE SHORES</h3> <h6>OF</h6> <h2><b>THE POLAR SEA.</b></h2>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 5%;" /> <h2><a name="CHAPTER_I" id="CHAPTER_I"></a>CHAPTER I.</h2>
+
+<p><small>Join the boats in the Methye River&mdash;Cross the Long
+Portage&mdash;Arrival to Fort Chipewyan&mdash;Departure from thence with
+the whole party for Mackenzie River&mdash;Arrangements at Fort
+Norman&mdash;Descent to the Sea&mdash;Return to the Winter Quarters at
+Great Bear Lake.</small></p>
+
+
+<p><span class="smcap">The</span> boats of the Expedition had advanced from Hudson's Bay into the
+interior, twelve hundred miles, before they were joined by the officers;
+whilst the latter, from taking a more circuitous route by New York and
+Canada, as shown in the introductory chapter, travelled two thousand and
+eight hundred miles, to reach the same point.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenote">June 29.</span>This junction took place early in the morning of the 29th of
+June, 1825, in the Methye River, latitude 56&deg; 10' N., longitude
+108&deg; 55' W., which is almost at the head of the waters that flow
+from the north into Hudson's Bay.</p>
+
+<p>In no part of the journey was the presence of the officers more
+requisite to animate and encourage the crews, because the river itself,
+beside being obstructed by three impassable rapids, is usually so
+shallow, through its whole course of forty miles, as scarcely to admit
+of a flat-bottomed bateau floating with half its cargo, much less our
+boats, which drew, when loaded, from eighteen to twenty inches. This
+river and its impediments being surmounted, the Methye Portage, ten
+miles and three quarters long, was at no great distance, which is always
+held up to the inexperienced voyager as the most laborious part of the
+journey. But whatever ap<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[Pg 24]</a></span>prehensions the men might have
+entertained on this subject, seemed to vanish on our landing amongst
+them; and Dr. Richardson and myself were received by all with cheerful,
+delighted countenances, and by none more warmly than by our excellent
+friend and former interpreter Augustus the Esquimaux, and Ooligbuck,
+whom he had brought from Churchill, as his companion. A breakfast was
+quickly prepared by Mr. Fraser, a clerk of the Hudson's Bay Company,
+under whose charge the boats had been, since their departure from
+Cumberland House; and I then inspected the boats and stores, which I was
+rejoiced to find were in good order. We had brought letters from the
+relatives of several of the party, and another hour was allowed to read
+them.</p>
+
+<p>At ten <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> we began to ascend the stream, but very soon found that it
+was necessary for the whole party to walk in the water, and drag the
+boats through the mud. Nor could we long advance even by this mode, but
+were compelled either to carry some of the cargo along the shore, where
+walking was at all practicable, or else to take half the lading in a
+boat to a part where the river was deeper, and then return for the
+remainder. From thus travelling the distance twice over, it was the
+fifth day before we reached the lake from whence its waters flow.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenotel">Thursday, 30.</span>On the evening of the 30th of June, we witnessed one of
+those violent but momentary gusts of wind which occur not unfrequently
+in the spring and autumn, and which prove so destructive to the forests
+in this country. It was preceded by calm and very sultry weather, with
+loud thunder and vivid lightning. In an instant the tents were
+overthrown, and even very large trees were bent by its force into a
+horizontal position; indeed, for a few seconds, the scene around us
+appeared one of almost entire devastation. When the violence of the
+squall was past, we had great reason to be pleased at its occurrence,
+for the strong steady breeze and heavy rain that succeeded, carried away
+the myriads of musquitoes by which we had been tormented the whole day.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenotel">Monday, 4.</span>Having crossed the Methye Lake, we arrived at the portage of
+that name. Here it was necessary to make an equal division of the
+cargoes, and to devise means for the conveyance of the boats. The
+packages amounted to one hundred and sixteen, weighing from seventy to
+ninety pounds each, exclusive of the three boats and the men's personal
+luggage; and there were nineteen men of the boats' <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[Pg 25]</a></span>crews, two
+Canadians, and two boys, to carry these burdens. At first the packages
+were equally distributed among this party; but several of the men, who
+had been reduced by their previous exertions, became lame: among these
+were the Esquimaux, and we were, therefore, compelled to make other
+arrangements, and ultimately to employ the crew of my canoe, though the
+great fatigue they had suffered in our rapid journey from
+Penetanguishene, made me desirous of sparing them for the present.</p>
+
+<p>The boats were the heaviest and most difficult articles to transport.
+One of the small boats was carried on the shoulders of eight men, of
+whom Mr. Fraser undertook to be one, as an example to the rest. Another
+of the same size was dragged by another eight men; and the largest was
+conveyed on a truck made for the purpose on the spot, to which service
+the lame were attached.</p>
+
+<p>Each day's journey, and also the intermediate stages, were determined by
+the places where water could be procured, and our mode of travelling was
+as follows:&mdash;Rising at three <span class="smcap">a.m.</span>, the men carried a part of their
+burden to the first stage, and continued to go backwards and forwards
+till the whole was deposited. They then slept for a few hours, and in
+the cool of the evening the boats were brought up. <span class="sidenote">Monday, 11th.</span>By these
+means every thing was ready at the western end of the portage early on
+Monday, the 11th of July. The slight injuries which the boats had
+received, principally from exposure to the sun, were soon repaired; they
+were put into the water to tighten, and the whole party were allowed to
+rest.</p>
+
+<p>With reference to the Methye Portage I may remark, that, except the
+steep hill at its western extremity, the road is good and tolerably
+level, and it appeared to us that much fatigue and suffering might have
+been spared by using trucks. Accordingly two were made by our carpenters
+at Fort Chipewyan, in 1827, for the return of the Expedition, and they
+answered extremely well. I mention this circumstance, in the hope that
+some such expedient will be adopted by the Traders for the relief of
+their voyagers, who have twice in every year to pass over this ridge of
+hills.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenote">Tuesday 12th.</span>Being now in a fair way to reach the Athabasca Lake, Dr.
+Richardson and I embarked, on the 12th, in the canoe, to proceed to Fort
+Chipewyan, for the purpose of preparing the gentleman in charge for the
+reception of the party.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[Pg 26]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>By noon we got over the four Portages on Clear-Water river, and
+descended, with some trouble, the series of rapids that follow them.
+Once below these, the passage to the lake is generally considered as
+free from fatigue; but we did not find it so, for, owing to the
+shallowness of the water, the men had to get out and drag the canoe in
+several places. The difference between the depth of water now and in
+other years at the same period, was attributed to the snow having fallen
+in the preceding autumn before the frost was sufficiently intense to
+harden the ground, and, consequently, much of the moisture had
+penetrated the earth, which, under other circumstances, would have
+remained in a frozen state, for the supply of the river at the spring
+thaw.</p>
+
+<p>In the course of the night we were under much alarm for one of our men,
+who having incautiously lain down to sleep under a wet sail, while the
+rain was pouring heavily, was seized with a cramp in the stomach, and
+violent pain in the head. Having been brought into the tent and covered
+with blankets, he became better before morning, but not sufficiently
+strong to allow of our setting off at the usual hour. <span class="sidenotel"> Wednesday,
+13th.</span>We entered the Elk, or Athabasca River, at three <span class="smcap">p.m.</span>, on the 13th,
+and were carried swiftly down by its current to the Hudson's Bay Company's
+post named Berens House, where we stayed the night. Here we received a
+supply of dried meat. <span class="sidenotel">Friday, 15th.</span>We safely arrived in the Athabasca
+Lake on the 15th, by the channel of the "Rivi&egrave;re des Eaux
+remu&eacute;es;" but in the subsequent traverse between Bustard Island
+and Fort Chipewyan the canoe was in danger of foundering in a sudden
+gale. Two large waves broke with full force into it, and obliged us to
+bear away and steer for the nearest shore; but the men having soon
+rested, and being now sheltered by islands, we pushed on to Fort
+Chipewyan. Our arrival there caused great surprise to its inmates, when
+they learned that we had come from England to that advanced post so
+early in the season, being only two days later than the time at which
+Dr. Richardson and Mr. Hood had arrived in 1819, though they passed the
+winter at Cumberland House.</p>
+
+<p>The stores at Fort Chipewyan being well furnished with warm clothing,
+and other articles, which we required for the use of the men and Indians
+at winter-quarters, I availed myself of the permission which the chief
+factor of this department, Mr. James Keith, had given me to complete our
+stock of cloth, blankets, nets, and twine, to a quantity sufficient for
+two years' <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[Pg 27]</a></span>consumption. A supply of twine was indispensable,
+because, by a letter from Mr. Dease, I had learned that the meshes of
+the nets made in England, of the size generally required for fishing
+throughout this country, were too large for the smaller fish that
+frequent that part of Bear Lake where our house was to be constructed.
+Mr. Campbell, the clerk in charge, cheerfully gave me the benefit of his
+experience in making out lists of such things as we were likely to want,
+and in assorting and packing them.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenote">Monday, 18th.</span>The boats rejoined on the 18th, and the crews were allowed
+the following day to recruit themselves. A party of Indians came very
+opportunely with fresh meat, which is always an agreeable change to the
+voyager, who has generally to live on dried provision. The Indians, as
+well as the women and children of the fort, spent the greater part of
+the day by the side of our boats, admiring their whole equipment, but
+more especially the gay figures painted on them. Many of these were
+different from any animals or representations they had seen, and,
+judging from the bursts of laughter, some curious remarks were made on
+them.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenote">Wednesday, 20th.</span>It being necessary that I should await the arrival of
+Lieutenant Back's canoes, Dr. Richardson undertook to proceed with the
+boats towards Slave Lake. Their lading was now increased by the bales
+already mentioned, as well as by several bags of pemmican, which Mr.
+Keith had stored up for our use. The crews, however, were reduced by the
+discharge of three Englishmen, at their own desire, who thought
+themselves unequal to the fatigue of the service.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenote">Saturday, 23d.</span>I had the happiness, on the 23rd, of welcoming my friends,
+Lieutenant Back and Mr. Kendall, on their arrival with three canoes.
+Their journey from Fort William had been expeditious, notwithstanding
+the detention of eighteen days, by bad weather, on the road. A serious
+misfortune had happened at the very outset of the journey, through the
+unskilfulness of one of the bowmen, in allowing his canoe to turn round
+and get before the current, while attempting to ascend the Barrier
+Rapid, by which it was driven against a stone with such force, as to be
+overset and broken. The stores were fortunately saved, though completely
+drenched; but many of the delicate atmospherical instruments were
+broken. Mr. Kendall was despatched to Fort William for another canoe
+while the things were drying.</p>
+
+<p>On a subsequent occasion, in the Winipeg River, the same <span class='pagenum'><a
+name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[Pg 28]</a></span>man placed his canoe in such a
+situation, as to endanger its being hurried down a steep fall, and had
+it not been for the coolness of a man, named Lavall&eacute;, who jumped
+into the water and held the canoe, while the rest of the crew arranged
+themselves so as to drag it into a place of safety, every life must have
+been sacrificed. The success, indeed the safety of this kind of river
+navigation, among currents and rapids, depend on the skill of the
+bowman; and after these proofs of his incapacity, Lieutenant Back very
+properly engaged a substitute at the first fort to which he came.</p>
+
+<p>At another time, in the Sturgeon-weir River, the canoe in which Mr.
+Kendall was embarked, having been accidentally driven before the
+current, she was only saved from destruction by his own powerful
+exertion and activity.</p>
+
+<p>These short details will convey an idea of the anxiety and trouble these
+officers experienced in their journey to Chipewyan.</p>
+
+<p>The party and the stores having now passed the more difficult part of
+the road, I discharged as many of the Canadians as could be spared, and
+furnished them with a canoe to take them home. Some went to Montreal;
+and they were the first persons who had every gone from that place to
+Chipewyan, and returned in the same season.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenotel">Monday, 25th.</span>The greater part of the 25th was employed in obtaining
+astronomical observations, the results of which, we were delighted to
+find, placed Fort Chipewyan within a few seconds of longitude of the
+position in which it had been laid down on the former Expedition. Our
+present azimuth compasses showed an increase in variation, since 1820,
+of 2&deg; 16' E. The dip was observed 81&deg; 26' 47".</p>
+
+<p>Fort Chipewyan was this summer visited, for the first time, by a large
+flight of swallows, resembling the house-martins of England. They came
+in a body on the 25th of June, and immediately began to construct their
+earthy nests under the ledge of the south-front of the house. Some barn
+or forked-tail swallows also arrived on the 15th of June, and took
+possession of the store-houses and garrets, as they had in former years
+done. Some of the young of the last-mentioned birds were sporting on the
+tops of the houses as early as the 17th of July.</p>
+
+<p>At sunset we embarked in four canoes, one having been procured here. The
+descent to Slave Lake occupied four days, and was unattended with any
+circumstance deserving mention, except that two of the canoes were
+broken in consequence of <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[Pg 29]</a></span>the guide mistaking the proper channel
+in a rapid; fortunately, these bark vessels are soon repaired, and we
+had only to regret the delay the accident occasioned.</p>
+
+<p>We halted at the Salt River to take in salt, as we found, by a note left
+here, Dr. Richardson had done. The geese were moulting at this time, and
+unable to fly; they afforded us much sport in their chase, and an
+excellent supper every night.</p>
+
+<p>A body of Indians were waiting near the entrance of the lake to welcome
+our arrival; they were so numerous, that we were forced to omit our
+general custom of giving a small present to each native, and thus
+incurred the charge of stinginess, which the loud vociferations they
+raised on our setting sail, were probably meant to convey.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenote">Friday, 29th.</span>At six, on the evening of the 29th, we reached Fort
+Resolution, the only establishment now at Slave Lake, and we felt happy
+in being once more under the roof of our hospitable friend, Mr. Robert
+M'Vicar, to whom I am much indebted for the excellent order in which he
+had brought up our supplies from Canada in the preceding year. Dr.
+Richardson, after a halt of two days, had gone forward with the boats.</p>
+
+<p>All the portages on the road to Bear Lake being now passed, the
+Canadians made a request, that we would allow them to commemorate the
+event by a dance. It met with a ready compliance; and though they had
+been paddling for thirty-six out of the thirty-nine preceding hours,
+they kept up their favourite amusement until daylight, to the music of
+bagpipes, relieved occasionally by the Jews' harp.</p>
+
+<p>We rejoiced to find at this post our worthy old Copper-Indian friends,
+Keskarrah and Humpy, the brother of Akaitcho, who had been waiting two
+months for the express purpose of seeing us. These excellent men showed
+that their gratification equalled ours, by repeatedly seizing our hands
+and pressing them against their hearts, and exclaiming, "How much we
+regret that we cannot tell what we feel for you here!" Akaitcho had left
+the fort about two months on a hunting excursion, hoping to return, with
+plenty of provision for our use, by the middle of August, which was as
+early as he thought we should arrive. Keskarrah confirmed the melancholy
+report we had heard in the more southern districts, that most of the
+hunters who had been in our service at Fort Enterprise, had been
+treacherously murdered, with many others of the tribe, by the Dog-Ribs,
+with which nation we also learned the Copper-Indians had been at war,
+since the year of our depar<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[Pg 30]</a></span>ture from them, till the last spring.
+The peace had been effected through the mediation of Messrs. Dease and
+M'Vicar, and we were gratified to find that Akaitcho and his tribe had
+been principally induced to make this reconciliation, by a desire that
+no impediment might be placed in the way of our present expedition. "We
+have too much esteem," said Akaitcho, "for our father, and for the
+service in which he is about to be again engaged, to impede its success
+by our wars, and, therefore, they shall cease;" and on being asked by
+Mr. Dease whether he and some of his young men would go to hunt for the
+party at our winter quarters, he replied, "Our hearts will be with them,
+but we will not go to those parts where the bones of our murdered
+brethren lie, for fear our bad passions should be aroused at the sight
+of their graves, and that we should be tempted to renew the war by the
+recollection of the manner of their death. Let the Dog-Ribs who live in
+the neighbourhood of Bear Lake furnish them with meat, though they are
+our enemies." Such sentiments would do honour to any state of
+civilization, and show that the most refined feelings may animate the
+most untutored people. Happily we were now so circumstanced as to be
+able to reward the friendship of these good men by allotting from our
+stores a liberal present to the principal persons. On the delivery of
+the articles to Keskarrah and Humpy, I desired them to communicate to
+Akaitcho, and the whole tribe, the necessity of their strictly adhering
+to the terms of peace, and assured them that I should not fail to urge
+the same obligations on the Dog-Ribs. A silver royal medal, such as is
+given to the Indian chiefs in Upper Canada, was likewise left with Mr.
+M'Vicar, to be presented to Akaitcho, as a further mark of our regard
+for his former services and present good wishes.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenotel">Sunday, 31st.</span>The party was detained at Fort Resolution until this
+morning by a strong south-west gale; and even when we embarked, the wind
+and waves were still high, but time was too precious to allow of our
+waiting when there was a prospect of making any advance. As our future
+course inclined to the westward, we now quitted the track of the former
+journey to Fort Enterprise, along which we had been travelling from Lake
+Winipeg. We first steered for the Buffalo River, and then along the
+south shore of Slave Lake, obtained the latitude 61&deg; 1' N. at noon,
+and afterwards the longitude 114&deg; 18&frac12;' W. at the Isle of the
+Dead. The islands and shores of this part of the lake are composed of
+horizontal beds of limestone, containing pitch and shells.<span class='pagenum'><a
+name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>A small party of Chipewyan Indians, with their principal chief, joined
+us at the encampment, from whom we learned that they had supplied Dr.
+Richardson with dried meat the preceding noon, at Hay River. The Chief
+was very importunate for rum, but I steadily adhered to the
+determination I had formed this time, on my entering the Fur Country, of
+not giving spirits to any Indian. A share of our supper and tea, and
+some tobacco, were offered to him, and accepted, though with a bad
+grace. The Fur Company ceased the following season to bring any rum to
+this quarter, and I learned that this man was one of the few natives who
+were highly displeased at this judicious change.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenote">Monday, 1st.</span>We coasted this day along the low shore of the lake,
+steering from point to point to avoid the sinuosities of several deep
+bays, and passed the mouth of the Sandy and Hay Rivers, whose positions
+we settled by astronomical observations.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenote">Tuesday, 2nd.</span>On the 2nd we came to the narrow part between the Big
+Island of Mackenzie, and the main shore, and perceived that a gentle
+current was setting towards the Mackenzie river. The water in this
+strait is very shallow, and also in many places near the south shore,
+though we know, from trial, on the former Expedition, that the depth of
+the east end of the lake, at a distance from the land, exceeds sixty and
+seventy fathoms. The beach, both of the north and south shores of the
+strait, is strewed with drift timber. In clear weather the north shore
+is visible from the point of the south shore nearest Big Island.</p>
+
+<p>Below this <i>detroit</i> the shores recede so as to form a small shallow
+lake, about twenty-four miles long, by from four to twelve miles broad,
+near the north-west end of which we encamped, in latitude 61&deg; 15'
+N., longitude 117&deg; 6' W. This spot may be considered as the
+commencement of Mackenzie River. The ground is very swampy, and
+nourishes willows only; but inland, at a short distance from the beach,
+grow plenty of the spruce-fir, poplar, aspen, and birch trees; and among
+the underwood, numerous shrubs and berry-bearing plants.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenote">Wednesday, 3rd.</span>On the 3rd we travelled to another contraction of the
+river about one mile broad, through which the current sets between high
+banks with such force as to form strong eddies. There are likewise in
+this part many sandy islands, and through the channels between them
+the<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[Pg 32]</a></span> current rushed with no less rapidity than in that we
+descended. For distinction's sake, these islands have been named the
+"Isles of the Rapid:" below them occurs another expansion, which is
+called by the voyagers "The Little Lake;" and Sandy Point at its
+north-west end, is considered by them as the commencement of the
+Mackenzie River.</p>
+
+<p>When abreast of this point, a favouring breeze enabled us to use the
+sail as well as the paddles, and with the assistance of the current
+great progress was made. We had occasional glimpses of the Horn and
+Rein-Deer Mountains as we passed along; but, until we were some way
+below the rapids, our view was very limited, owing to the woods being on
+fire in almost every direction. This I should have mentioned to have
+been the case in many parts between Isle &agrave; la Crosse and the
+Mackenzie. The cause of these extensive conflagrations I could not
+learn; some attributed them to voluntary acts of the Indians, and others
+to their negligence in leaving their fires burning.</p>
+
+<p>We put up at sunset on a beach of gravel under a well-wooded bank of
+moderate height, and the party regaled themselves with raspberries and
+other indigenous fruits.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenotel">Thursday, 4th.</span>At half past two <span class="smcap">a.m.</span>, on the 4th, the canoes were again
+on the water, and being driven by sail and current, made good way. We
+stopped at the Trout River, which flows in from the southward, and
+ascertained its longitude 119&deg; 47' W. The breadth of the Mackenzie
+is here about two miles, and its banks are composed of a muddy clay: the
+stones on the beach mostly limestone, with some boulders of primitive
+rocks. The trees are of the kinds we had seen north of the Athabasca
+Lake: they are here of a smaller size. Five miles below this part, the
+Mackenzie is divided into several channels by islands, and the current
+runs with increased swiftness, and strong eddies.</p>
+
+<p>The latitude 61&deg; 26' 30" N. was obtained at noon; it was the same as
+on the preceding day; so that our course, in the interval, had been due
+west.</p>
+
+<p>The banks now were higher, and for the next forty miles the breadth of
+the stream did not exceed one mile, nor was less than half a mile; its
+course inclined more to the north. We passed the site of the first
+establishment that the North-West Company had made in these parts, which
+was erected by Mr. Livingstone, one of the partners, who, with the whole
+of the crew of his canoe, except one individual, were massacred <span class='pagenum'><a
+name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[Pg 33]</a></span>by the Esquimaux on the first attempt
+to open a trade with them.</p>
+
+<p>At three <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> a picturesque view opened upon us of a distant range of
+mountains running east and west, and nearly at right angles to the
+course of the river. The current being considerably increased by the
+contribution of some streams near this place, we descended very swiftly.
+Six miles below Pine Island, there is a strong but not a dangerous
+rapid; and about fifteen miles farther is Fort Simpson, the principal
+dep&ocirc;t of the Hudson Bay Company for this department, at which we
+arrived by eight <span class="smcap">p.m.</span>, and thus escaped a very wet, comfortless night.
+Dr. Richardson had departed for Fort Norman the preceding day.</p>
+
+<p>This establishment, three hundred and thirty-eight miles from Fort
+Resolution on Slave Lake, is situated at the confluence of the River of
+the Mountains and the Mackenzie. The former is the channel of
+communication with a fur post not far distant from the Rocky Mountain
+Range, from whence the residents here procure much of their provision,
+including a tolerable supply of potatoes, which have been recently
+introduced from the southern parts. Mr. Smith, the chief factor of the
+district, was fortunately at Fort Simpson, so that I had the opportunity
+of arranging with him as to supplies of provision or stores that my
+party might require during its residence at Bear Lake. He cheerfully
+acceded to every suggestion that was made, and likewise furnished me
+with a letter of instruction to the same effect, addressed to the
+gentleman in charge of the lower posts.</p>
+
+<p>I learned from Mr. Smith that, as yet, a few only of the Indians who
+live nearest the mouth of the river, and none of the Esquimaux, had been
+apprized of our intended visit, the traders at the lower posts having
+considered that it would be better to defer this communication until we
+should arrive in the river, for fear of disappointing these people,
+which might have been attended with unpleasant results.</p>
+
+<p>There were two Canadians here belonging to the Expedition, whom Mr.
+Dease had sent to serve as guides to Bear Lake. By letters which they
+brought, I was informed that Indian hunters were engaged, and the
+necessary buildings in course of preparation for our reception. As Fort
+Simpson had been short of ammunition during the summer from some
+accidental cause, I was glad to find that Mr. Dease had been enabled to
+lend from our stores a barrel of powder, and a bag of balls and I now
+increased the loan, so as to meet the probable <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[Pg 34]</a></span>demands of the
+Indians, until the Company's supplies should arrive, when they would
+return to Fort Norman the whole of what we had lent. Cloudy weather
+limited our astronomical observations at this place to the dip of the
+needle, which was observed 81&deg; 54'.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenotel">Friday, 5th.</span>We quitted the fort on the 5th, soon after noon, whence the
+river preserving nearly a straight course for fifteen miles, gradually
+extends itself to nearly two miles in breadth; in its channel there are
+three islands. At two <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> we obtained the first glimpse of the Rocky
+Mountains, and kept them in view until we encamped, which was early, as
+the canoes required gumming. The outline of the mountains was very
+peaked, and at their easternmost part was a cone-shaped hill, higher
+than the rest, whose summit was veiled by clouds. The general appearance
+of the range somewhat reminded me of the east end of Jamaica.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenotel">Saturday, 6th.</span>The morning of the 6th was beautifully fine: we embarked
+at 2h 30m <span class="smcap">a.m.</span>, and by seven came within six or seven miles of the
+mountain range, where the river suddenly changes its course from W.b.N.
+to north, in longitude 123&deg; 31' W.</p>
+
+<p>A distinct stratification was perceptible on the face of the nearest
+mountain: on one side of a nearly perpendicular ravine the strata dip to
+the southward at an angle of 25&deg;; whilst on the other they are
+nearly horizontal. There was a large accumulation of debris at its base:
+every part of the hill was destitute of vegetation. Its altitude was
+guessed at one thousand two hundred feet.</p>
+
+<p>At noon, in latitude 62&deg; 49' N., we saw a chain of mountains, on the
+eastern side of the river, similar in their outline and general
+character to those hitherto seen only on the opposite bank. Between
+these ranges the river flowed in a channel two miles broad; but as we
+advanced we receded from those on the western side, their direction
+being W.N.W. In the brilliancy of the sunshine, the surfaces of some of
+the eastern hills, which were entirely bare, appeared white as marble,
+and for some time we fancied them to be covered with snow. By four <span class="smcap">p.m.</span>
+we reached the Rocky Island mentioned by Mackenzie, where, from the
+river being contracted, the current flowed with great rapidity, and soon
+brought us opposite to the remarkable hill close by the river side,
+which that persevering traveller ascended in July, 1789. His account
+renders a description of it unnecessary. It is composed of limestone,
+and is about four hundred feet high.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[Pg 35]</a></span></p> <p>We continued a N.b.W. course for eight miles, and encamped at
+sunset, having travelled this day one hundred and twenty miles. A small
+supply of fresh deer's meat was obtained from some Dog-Rib Indians.
+Their canoes were made of the bark of the pine-tree, sewn at the ends
+and top with the fibrous parts of the root of that tree, leaving only a
+space sufficient for the legs of the sitter.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenote">Sunday, 7th.</span>We pursued our course at dawn of day, and at the end of a
+few miles came to a more winding part of the river, where the stream is
+interrupted by numerous sand banks and shoals which we had some trouble
+to get round. Mr. Kendall, in his Journal, remarks of this part, "That
+bubbles of air continually rose to the surface with a hissing noise
+resembling the effervescence produced by pouring water on quick lime."</p>
+
+<p>We arrived at Fort Norman at ten, <span class="smcap">a.m.</span>, distant two hundred and
+thirty-six miles from Fort Simpson, and five hundred and seventy-four
+from Fort Resolution.</p>
+
+<p>Being now only four days' journey from Bear Lake, and there remaining
+yet five or six weeks of open season, I resolved on following up a plan
+of a voyage to the sea, which I had cherished ever since leaving
+England, without imparting it to my companions, until our departure from
+Fort Chipewyan, because I was apprehensive that some unforeseen accident
+might occur in the course of the very intricate and dangerous river
+navigation between Fort William and the Athabasca Lake, which might
+delay our arrival here to too late a period of the year. It was
+arranged, <i>first</i>, that I should go down to the sea, accompanied by Mr.
+Kendall, and collect whatever information could be obtained, either from
+actual observation, or from the intelligence of the Loucheux Indians,
+or the Esquimaux, respecting the general state of the ice in the summer
+and autumn; the direction of the coast, east and west of the Mackenzie;
+and whether we might calculate upon any supply of provision. <i>Secondly</i>,
+Dr. Richardson, on his own suggestion was to proceed in a boat along the
+northern shore of Bear Lake, to the part where it approached nearest to
+the Coppermine River, and there fix upon a spot to which he might bring
+the party the following year, on its return from the mouth of that
+river. And, <i>thirdly</i>, that these undertakings might not interfere with
+the important operations necessary for the comfortable residence and
+subsistence of the Expedition during the following winter, Lieutenant
+Back was to superintend them during my <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[Pg 36]</a></span>absence, with the
+assistance of Mr. Dease, chief trader of the Hudson Bay Company, whose
+suggestions, relative to the proper distribution of the Indian hunters,
+and the station of the fishermen, he was to follow. Accordingly, Dr.
+Richardson, on his quitting this place two days previous to our arrival,
+had left the largest of the boats, the Lion, for my use and a
+well-selected crew of six Englishmen, and Augustus the Esquimaux.</p>
+
+<p>Lieutenant Back was directed to take the canoes forward to Bear Lake,
+laden with such supplies as would be required for the winter, and was
+further instructed to furnish Dr. Richardson with one of the boats, and
+a good crew. The services of the Canadians who had brought the canoes
+from Penetanguishene, being no longer required, I desired Lieutenant
+Back to discharge them, and also all the voyagers of Mr. Dease's party
+who could be spared. They were sent in canoes to Slave Lake, where I had
+arranged with Mr. M'Vicar for their being supplied with the means of
+gaining subsistence by fishing, during the winter; and the following
+spring, they were to be forwarded to Canada, at the expense of
+Government, according to the terms of their agreement.</p>
+
+<p>Fort Norman being situated in our way to the sea, the pemmican and other
+stores, intended for the voyage along the coast next season, were
+deposited here, by permission of Mr. Smith, under the care of Mr.
+Brisbois, the clerk in charge. Our observations place this establishment
+in latitude 64&deg; 40' 30" N., and longitude 124&deg; 53' 22" W.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenotel">Monday, 8th.</span>The above matters being satisfactorily settled, and a few
+articles packed up as presents to the Indians and Esquimaux, Mr. Kendall
+and I embarked on the 8th, at noon, taking, in addition to our crew, a
+voyager, who was reported to be able to guide us through the proper
+channels to Fort Good Hope, of which, however, we found him altogether
+ignorant. We were accompanied by Lieutenant Back, with the three
+canoes, each manned by five men. The crews of the canoes imagining they
+could easily pass our English boat, were much surprised, on putting it
+to the proof, to find the boat take and maintain the lead, both under
+sail and with oars.</p>
+
+<p>A few miles above the Bear Lake River, and near its mouth, the banks of
+the Mackenzie contain much wood coal, which was on fire at the time we
+passed, as it had been observed to be by Mackenzie in his voyage to the
+sea. Its smell was very disagreeable. On a subsequent trial of this coal
+at our winter quarters, we found that it emitted little heat, and was
+unfit for <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[Pg 37]</a></span>the blacksmith's use. The banks likewise contain layers
+of a kind of unctuous mud, similar, perhaps, to that found on the
+borders of the Orinoco, which the Indians, in this neighbourhood, use
+occasionally as food during seasons of famine, and even, at other times,
+chew as an amusement. It has a milky taste, and the flavour is not
+disagreeable. We used it for whitening the walls of our dwellings; for
+which purpose it is well adapted.</p>
+
+<p>The entrance of the Bear Lake River is distinguished by a very
+remarkable mountain, whose summit displays a variety of insulated peaks,
+crowded in the most irregular manner. It is composed of limestone; and
+from the lower cliffs, which front the river, a dark, bituminous liquid
+oozes and discolours the rock. There are likewise two streams of
+sulphureous water that flow from its base into the Mackenzie. At this
+place we parted from our friend, Lieutenant Back, who entered the clear
+and beautiful stream that flows from Bear Lake, of whose pure waters we
+had also the benefit, till they were overpowered by the muddy current of
+the Mackenzie. The day was fine, the wind fair, the current swift, and
+every circumstance concurred to put the party in high glee. There was
+little in the scenery to attract our attention, now that we had become
+familiar with the general appearance of the Mackenzie, and we passed
+island after island, of the same alluvial mud, without further regard
+than the delineation of them in the survey book. At length, however, a
+most picturesque view of the Rocky Mountain range opened before us, and
+excited general admiration, and we had also some portions of the
+mountain range on the eastern side of the river, in view for the
+remainder of the day's journey. The outline of these mountains is very
+irregular, the highest parts being peaked hills. The general direction
+of the ranges is between N.W. and N.W.b.W.</p>
+
+<p>Being unwilling to lose the advantage of the wind, we only put ashore to
+sup, and after two hours' delay, resumed our voyage under easy sail.
+When the sun rose, the oars were used; and then, as the current set at
+the rate of two miles and a half per hour, the boat travelled swiftly
+down the stream. The eastern bank of the river, along which we were
+passing, is about one hundred and twenty feet high, almost
+perpendicular, and is composed of thin strata of bituminous shale.
+Amongst the fragments of shale which strewed the beach, we found many
+pieces of brown wood-coal. A reach, eighteen <span class="sidenotel">Tuesday, 9th.</span><span class='pagenum'><a
+name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[Pg 38]</a></span>miles in length, followed. It is
+bounded on both sides by high cliffs of sand-stone. We landed to
+breakfast, and to obtain the longitude, 128&deg; 23' W.</p>
+
+<p>From the reach here described, are seen two hills, named by me the East
+and West Mountains of the rapid, which seem to present a barrier to the
+further progress of the stream; but the river, bending suddenly between
+them to the north, dilates into a kind of basin, and, by so doing, opens
+by far the most interesting view of the Rocky Mountains which the
+Mackenzie affords. The river, too, makes its nearest approach to those
+mountains at this spot, and probably, the easiest communication with
+them would be by ascending a small stream that flows in here on the
+western side. Here too are found the first rapids mentioned by
+Mackenzie, which continue in succession for two miles, when the water is
+low. The centre of the basin is occupied by low sandy islands; and the
+channel on the western side is the deepest. The beauty of this scene
+furnished employment for the able pencil of Lieutenant Back, on a
+subsequent occasion. As the Mackenzie, in its further descent, continues
+to hold a northerly course, and the range of mountains runs N.W.b.N., we
+did not obtain any other view of them till we approached the sea.</p>
+
+<p>At one <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> we saw a party of Indians encamped on the beach of a small
+stream, whom we invited to come off to us. They hesitated at first,
+being doubtful who we were, from our boat being different in shape from
+any they had seen, and carrying two sails; but after some time they
+launched their canoes, and brought us a good supply of fresh deer's
+meat. The sight of our boats seemed to delight them as much as the
+ammunition and tobacco which they received. These were Hare Indians, the
+tribe that follows next to the Dog-Ribs, in the line of country below
+Bear Lake; and, like them, they speak a dialect of the Chipewyan
+language. We admired the shape and appearance of their canoes, which
+were larger than those used by the Chipewyans, and had the fore part
+covered with bark, to fit them for the navigation of this broad river,
+where the waves are often high.</p>
+
+<p>The river varied from two to four miles in breadth, and its course was
+interrupted by several small islands and sand-banks. At six <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> we came
+to an open space, bounded by lofty walls of sandstone. In this expansion
+are found the second rapids of Mackenzie: at the first appearance they
+seem dangerous, but are not so. The river becomes again contract<span class='pagenum'><a
+name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[Pg 39]</a></span>ed, and rushes with great force for
+the space of seven miles through a kind of defile, varying in breadth
+from four hundred to eight hundred yards, which has been appropriately
+named "The Ramparts," by the traders. The walls of this defile are from
+eighty to one hundred and fifty feet high, and are composed of
+limestone, containing numerous shells: for a part of the way the stone
+is very white, and in the rest it is blue. Several streams of water were
+running over the summits of the cliffs, which had worn the stone in some
+places, into a turreted shape; while the heaps, overthrown by its action
+at their base, resemble mounds for defence. To these appearances were
+occasionally added cavernous openings, and other hollow parts, not
+unlike the arched windows or gateways of a castellated building. I could
+not help fancying what delight a visit to this spot would afford to any
+person of a romantic turn, especially at the time we first saw it, when
+the broad shadows of a declining sun gave effect to the picture. This is
+a place of resort for the Hare Indians to fish, and we were visited by a
+large party of men and women of that tribe, who brought fish, berries,
+and meat. They were all neatly clothed in new leathern dresses, highly
+ornamented with beads and porcupine quills. The paintings of animals on
+the sides of our boats were very attractive to them; they scanned every
+figure over and over, bursting into laughter whenever they recognised
+any of the animals. We encamped near a small river below the ramparts,
+one hundred and ninety-three miles from Fort Norman. Two young Indians
+followed us in their canoes, bringing some musk-rat skins, and fish for
+sale. We purchased the fish, but declined taking the furs. They were so
+pleased with their reception, that they passed the night by our fire.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenote">Wednesday, 10th.</span>At daylight we again embarked, and descended the river
+pleasantly and swiftly under sail, having the benefit of a strong
+current, especially where it was narrowed by islands or sand-banks. The
+sides of the river are generally high cliffs of limestone or sandstone,
+and its breadth from two to three miles. The intervals between these
+cliffs are mostly occupied by hills of sand, from eighty to one hundred
+feet high, whose intermediate valleys are well wooded; and whenever
+these occur, the channel of the river is much interrupted by banks, on
+which, as well as on the beach, there are vast collections of drift
+timber, piled, in some places, twenty feet high, by the spring floods.</p>
+
+<p>At eleven <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> we arrived at Fort Good Hope, the lowest <span class='pagenum'><a
+name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[Pg 40]</a></span>of the Company's establishments; it
+is distant from Fort Norman three hundred and twelve miles, and is in
+latitude 67&deg; 28' 21" N., and longitude 130&deg; 51' 38" W.: the
+variation of the compass being 47&deg; 28' 41" E. Our arrival at this
+period of the year, at least two months earlier than that of the
+Company's boats from York Factory, caused great astonishment to the few
+inmates of this dreary dwelling, and particularly to its master, Mr.
+Charles Dease, who scarcely recovered from his surprise until we had
+been seated some time in his room. But this over, he quickly put every
+one in motion to prepare a meal for us, of which we stood in much need,
+as it was then verging on midnight, and we had breakfasted at eight in
+the morning. This post had been but recently established for the
+convenience of the tribe of Indians whom Mackenzie calls the
+Quarrellers, but whom the traders throughout the fur country name
+Loucheux. As this name is now in general use, I shall adopt it, though
+it is but justice to the people to say, that they have bright sparkling
+eyes, without the least tendency to that obliquity which might be
+inferred from the term. The fact is, that Loucheux, or Squinter, was
+intended to convey the sense of the Indian name of the
+tribe&mdash;Deguth&eacute;e Dennee, which means "the people who avoid
+the arrows of their enemies, by keeping a look out on both sides." None
+of the tribe was at this time at the fort; but from Mr. Dease we learned
+the interesting fact, that the Loucheux and Esquimaux, who are generally
+at war, had met amicably the preceding spring, and that they were now at
+peace. We procured from the store an assortment of beads, and such
+things as were most in request with the Loucheux, and made up a small
+package of clothing to be presented to each chief of that tribe, whose
+favour it was thought advisable by this means to propitiate, as they
+were the next neighbours to the Esquimaux.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenotel">Thursday, 11th.</span>After the latitude had been observed, we embarked, and
+were accompanied by Mr. Dease as far as Trading River, where he
+expected there might still be a party of Indians, which did not prove
+the case. This river being the usual limit of the trader's travels
+towards the sea, the voyager who had come with us from Fort Norman
+declined going any farther, and by permission of Mr. Dease he was
+exchanged for a young half-breed named Baptiste, the interpreter of the
+fort, who went under the promise of being left with the chief of the
+Loucheux, to whom he was to introduce the party.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[Pg 41]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The reach below Trading River is remarkable, from the banks on the
+eastern side consisting of hills of a light yellow marl-slate, nearly
+uniform in shape, and strongly resembling piles of cannon shot. The name
+of Cannon-Shot Reach was, therefore, bestowed on it. The channel of the
+river is very intricate, winding amongst numerous sand-banks, and some
+low alluvial islands, on which willows only grow. Its breadth is about
+two miles, and the depth of water, in the autumn, from six to twelve
+feet. In passing through Cannon-Shot Reach, we were hailed by an Indian
+from the shore, and landed immediately, to inform him of the purport of
+our visit. As soon as Baptiste had explained these matters to him, the
+man, deeming it of importance that we should be properly introduced to
+his relatives, offered to accompany us to the next party, providing we
+would undertake to carry his baggage. This we consented to do, little
+expecting, from the appearance of poverty in himself and his family, and
+still less from that of his tent, a mere covering of bark and pine
+branches, supported on three poles, that load upon load of unsavoury
+fish would be tossed into the boat. However, we were unwilling to
+retract our promise, and suffered our vessel to be completely lumbered.
+We then pushed off, leaving the family to follow in the canoe, but in a
+short time our ears were assailed by the loud cries of the man demanding
+that we should stop. On his coming up, we found he was apprehensive of
+the canoe sinking, it being very leaky and overloaded, and of his losing
+his wife and infant child. The water being thrown out, the man proposed
+going forward and keeping by our side. There was nothing now to fear,
+yet the lamentations of the woman became louder and louder, and at last
+the poor creature threw off her only covering, raised the most piteous
+cries, and appeared a perfect object of despair. We learned from
+Baptiste that she was mourning the loss of two near relatives who had
+recently died near the spot we were passing. In this manner do these
+simple people show their sorrow for the death of their connexions. As we
+drew near the tents of the party on shore, the husband proclaimed with
+a stentorian voice who we were; this produced a long reply, of which
+Baptiste could only collect enough to inform us that many persons were
+lying sick in the lodges, and that two had died the preceding day. Not
+choosing to expose ourselves to the hazard of contagion, we put the
+baggage of our friend on shore at some distance below the lodges. All
+those who were able to manage a canoe, came off to receive presents, and
+to see <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[Pg 42]</a></span>Augustus, the principal object of attraction. Each person
+crowded to the side on which he sat to shake him by the hand; and two of
+the party, who had been occasionally with the Esquimaux, contrived to
+make him understand that, being accompanied by him, we need apprehend no
+violence from them, though they were a treacherous people. At the end of
+five miles farther we put on shore to sup, and afterwards slept in the
+boat; but Augustus spread his blankets on the beach before the fire, and
+allowed four of the Loucheux, who had followed us from the tents, to
+share them with him.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenotel">Friday, 12th.</span>At daylight we loosened from the beach, and continued with
+the descent of the river; winding, in our course, as numerous sand-banks
+rendered necessary. In a few hours we descried another collection of
+Indian lodges. One of the party happened to be examining his nets nearer
+to us than the tents; on espying the boat, he immediately desisted, and
+paddled towards his friends with the utmost speed, bawling the whole way
+for them to arm. The women and children were seen hurrying up the bank
+to hide themselves; and by the time we had got abreast of the lodges,
+the whole party were in a state of defence. They stood on the beach
+gazing at us evidently with much distrust; and for some time no one
+would accept our invitations to approach. At length an adventurous
+youth, distinguishable among the rest by the gaiety of his dress, and
+the quantity of beads that were suspended around his neck, launched his
+canoe and paddled gently towards the boat, till he discovered Augustus,
+whom he knew by his countenance to be an Esquimaux; then rising from his
+seat, he threw up his hands for joy, and desired every one of the party
+to embark at once. The summons was instantly obeyed, and a friendly
+intercourse followed; each person that had a gun discharging its
+contents, and taking the iron heads and barbs from the arrows, to show
+their entire confidence. On landing to breakfast, we found that the
+dialect of this party was different from that of the men we had seen
+yesterday, and that Baptiste did not understand their language;
+consequently our communications were carried on by signs, except when
+they attempted to speak Esquimaux, which Augustus, with difficulty, made
+out. He was still the centre of attraction, notwithstanding Mr. Kendall
+and myself were dressed in uniform, and were distributing presents to
+them. They caressed Augustus, danced and played around him, to testify
+their joy at his appearance among them, and we could not help admiring
+the demeanour of our excellent little companion<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[Pg 43]</a></span> under such
+unusual and extravagant marks of attention. He received every burst of
+applause, every shake of the hand, with modesty and affability, but
+would not allow them to interrupt him in the preparation of our
+breakfast, a task which he always delighted to perform. As soon as we
+had finished our meal, he made his friends sit down, and distributed to
+each person a portion of his own, but without any affectation of
+superiority. When we were on the point of embarking, the oldest Indian
+of the party intimated his desire that we should stop until some one
+whom he had sent for should come. This proved to be his son, in a very
+sickly state. Though the day was warm, the lad was shivering with cold,
+and it was evident he was suffering from fever, which the father had no
+doubt we could cure. The only remedy we could apply was some warm tea,
+with a little brandy in it, which we afterwards learned had the desired
+effect of restoring the invalid. Again we were preparing to set off,
+when the same old man begged us to stop until the women should come;
+these were no less pleased with Augustus, and with the presents they
+received, than the men had been.</p>
+
+<p>This good-natured tribe is distinguished by the traders as the Lower
+Loucheux, but the literal meaning of their Indian name is the Sharp
+Eyes. They are decidedly a well-looking people: in manner, and general
+appearance, they resemble the Esquimaux near the mouth of the Mackenzie,
+though not in their eyes, which are prominent and full. Their canoes,
+too, are shaped like those of the Esquimaux, and made of birch bark,
+which, by some process, is striped from the gunwale perpendicularly
+downwards, for the purpose of ornament. Their summer dress, like that of
+the Upper Loucheux and Esquimaux, is a jacket of leather, prolonged to a
+point before and behind: the leggings, of the same material, are sewn to
+the shoes, and tied by a string round the waist. The outer edges of
+their dress are cut into fringes, coloured with red and yellow earth,
+and generally decorated with beads. Beads are so much coveted by them,
+that, for some years, they were the principal article of trade exchanged
+for their furs; and even now the successful hunter, or the favourite
+son, may be known by the quantity of strings of different coloured beads
+which he has about his neck. These Indians are the only natives of
+America, except the Esquimaux, whom I have seen with the septum of the
+nose perforated, through which, like the Esquimaux, they thrust pieces
+of bone, or small strings of shells, which they purchase from that
+people. Few of them have <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[Pg 44]</a></span>guns, but each man is armed with a bow
+and arrows. The bows are constructed of three pieces of wood, the middle
+one straight, and those at each end crooked, and bound with sinews, of
+which the string is also made. The dress of the women only differs from
+that of the men by the hood being made sufficiently wide to admit of
+their carrying a child on their back.</p>
+
+<p>At ten <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> we resumed our journey, followed by the young man who had
+first spoken to us, and his brother, in their canoes, and in the course
+of two hours came abreast of a remarkable round-backed hill, on which we
+were informed Mr. Livingstone and his party had encamped in 1795, the
+night before they were massacred. This hill marks the commencement of
+another contraction of the river, which is here pent in between very
+steep cliffs of blue limestone, which I have denominated the Narrows.
+The Red River contributes its waters to the Mackenzie at the lower part
+of the Narrows, in latitude 67&deg; 27' N., longitude 133&deg; 31' W.;
+and, though of inconsiderable size, is remarkable as being the boundary
+between the lands claimed by the Loucheux Indians and those of the
+Esquimaux, and likewise as the spot where the amicable meeting between
+these tribes had been held in the preceding spring. We did not find the
+chief of the Loucheux here, as had been expected, and therefore passed
+on. The banks of the river, now entirely composed of sand and sandstone,
+became gradually lower, and more bare of trees. At the end of eight
+miles we arrived at a very spacious opening, in which were numerous
+well-wooded islands, and various channels. The rocky mountains on the
+west once more appeared in view, extending from S.W. to N.W. and
+preserving a N.W.&frac12;W. direction; and of this range a very lofty
+peak, and a table mountain, which I have named after the late Mr.
+Gifford, form the most conspicuous features. We steered into the eastern
+channel, as being that through which the current seemed to run swiftest;
+and as soon as we came to a high bank we landed, for the purpose of
+taking a survey of the surrounding scene. But even from its summit our
+view was very limited, and all we could discover was, that we were
+certainly in that expansion of the river that Mackenzie delineates in
+his chart, and, therefore, in the fair way to the sea, whatever channel
+we took. This might have been inferred, from the sudden departure of our
+two Indian companions, who dropped behind and turned their canoes round,
+without further ceremony, as soon as they saw our intention of entering
+the eastern chan<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[Pg 45]</a></span>nel. Baptiste, who was asleep at the time,
+expressed surprise at their having gone back, but consoled himself with
+the idea of meeting the Indian chief the next morning, at a place he
+called the Forks. We were amused at conjecturing how great his surprise
+would be should he next be disturbed by the hallowing of a party of
+Esquimaux, whom he greatly dreaded. At the end of twenty-three miles
+descent in the middle channel, having passed one that branched off to
+the eastward, we put up at an early hour, and caused the guns to be
+cleaned, and two sentinels appointed to watch, lest the Esquimaux
+should come upon us unawares. The banks of the river, as well as the
+islands, are entirely alluvial, and support willows at the lower parts,
+and the spruce-fir trees at the summits. The beach on which we were
+encamped was much intersected with the recent tracts of the moose and
+rein-deer.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenote">Saturday, 13th.</span>We embarked at three <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> on the 13th; and as we were in
+momentary expectation of meeting the Esquimaux with whom I wished to
+have an interview, the masts were struck, lest they should discover the
+boat at a distance, and run off. We soon passed two of their huts, which
+did not seem to have been recently inhabited. The longitude 134&deg; 20'
+30" W., and variation 51&deg; 4' 20" E., were observed at the time we
+halted to breakfast, and the latitude 68&deg; 15' 50" N., at noon. The
+Rein-deer mountains on the eastern side, came in view before noon. The
+range on the west was also occasionally visible: we were descending
+between the M'Gillivray and Simpson islands, in a channel that did not
+exceed half a mile in breadth. A fine breeze sprung up after noon, of
+which we took advantage by setting the sails, not having seen any recent
+traces of the Esquimaux. At the extremity of Simpson island there is a
+broad channel, which pours its waters into the one in which we were, at
+a place where the stream is contracted by a small island, and a strong
+rapid is the consequence of this junction. Here we found many huts, and
+other indications of its being a place of resort for fishing; here,
+too, it is supposed Mr. Livingstone and his crew fell a sacrifice to the
+first party of Esquimaux whom they met. Several other openings branched
+off to the eastward; but we continued to follow the largest channel, in
+which the current was very strong, and kept nearly parallel to, and
+about ten miles from, the Rein-deer mountains. Their outline, viewed
+from this distance, appeared very regular, the only remarkable parts
+being some eminences that were tinged with a deep pink colour. Sailing
+by one of the huts at a <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[Pg 46]</a></span>quick rate, every one's attention was
+arrested at hearing a shrill sound, which was supposed to be a human
+voice; but on landing to ascertain the fact, we could find no person,
+nor any footsteps. We, therefore, continued our journey. As we
+proceeded, the river became more devious in its course, the huts on the
+Esquimaux were now more frequent; none of them, however, seemed to have
+been recently inhabited. The islands were of the same alluvial kind as
+those seen yesterday, and the wood on them equally plentiful and large.
+We stopped to sup at nine, extinguished the fire as soon as we had
+finished, and then retired to sleep in the boat, keeping two men on
+guard.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenotel">Sunday, 14th.</span>We set off aided by a fresh breeze this morning, and at the
+end of seven miles came to the last of the fir trees, in latitude
+68&deg; 40' N., the only wood beyond this being stunted willows, which
+became still more dwarfish at thirty miles from the mouth of the river.
+There was plenty of drift-wood on the borders of the islands, and some
+even on the higher parts, at a distance from the water; from which it
+would appear that at certain seasons they are inundated. At length the
+main stream took a turn to the S.S.W., which we followed, though there
+was a branch northwards, but it seemed to be much impeded by
+mud-banks.<a name="FNanchor_1_1" id="FNanchor_1_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_1_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> At the end of eight miles the river again inclined to the
+north of west, round the southern extremity of Halkett island, and there
+were openings to the north and south, which we did not stop to examine.
+A fog-bank hung over the northern horizon, which gave us no little
+uneasiness, from its strong resemblance to a continuous line of
+ice-blink; and the clouds, from the sun-beams falling on them, had the
+exact appearance of icebergs. However, the sun became sufficiently
+powerful in the afternoon to dissipate the cause of this illusion, and
+relieve us from anxiety on that score. A body of water, nearly equal to
+that we were descending, poured in between the Colville and Halkett
+islands with such force as to cause a very strong ripple at the point of
+junction, which we avoided by keeping close to the shore of Langley
+island. The channel, after the union of these streams, increased to a
+breadth of two miles, preserving a N.N.W. course. We stood twelve miles
+in this direction, and two to the westward, when we were gratified by
+the delightful prospect of the shore suddenly diverging, and a wide
+space of open water to the northward,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[Pg 47]</a></span> which we doubted not would
+prove to be the sea. Just at this time a seal made its appearance, and
+sported about the boat as if in confirmation of this opinion. We
+attempted to coast along the shore of Ellice island, but found the water
+too shallow, and that the boat grounded whenever we got out of the
+channel of the river, which was near the western side. The wind and
+waves were too high for us to make any progress in the middle of the
+stream, and as the clouds threatened more boisterous weather, we went to
+Pitt island to encamp. The haze which had hidden all distant objects
+since five <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> passed off as the sun set, and we gained a very
+magnificent view of that portion of the rocky mountain which I have
+called after my companion Dr. Richardson, and of which the remarkable
+conical peak, named in honour of my friend Dr. Fitton, President of the
+Geological Society, and the Cupola mountain, are the most conspicuous
+objects. These were subsequently found to be near sixty miles distant.
+The water was entirely fresh, and there was no perceptible rise of tide.
+Our drowsy companion Baptiste, when he looked upon the vast expanse of
+water, for the first time, expressed some apprehension that we had
+passed the Forks, and that there was a doubt of our seeing the Indian
+chief; but he was by no means convinced of the fact until the following
+day, when he tasted salt water, and lost sight of the main shore. After
+our Sunday evening's supper, the party assembled in the tent to read
+prayers, and return thanks to the Almighty, for having thus far crowned
+our labours with success.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenote">Monday, 15th.</span>In the morning of the fifteenth the wind blew a gale, as it
+had done through the night, and every object was obscured by a thick
+fog. About six <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> we took advantage of a temporary abatement of the
+wind to cross over to some higher land on the eastern side, which we had
+seen the preceding evening, appearing like islands. Owing to the
+thickness of the fog, we were guided in our course at starting solely by
+the compass. When we reached the channel of the river, the gale returned
+with increased violence, and its direction being opposite to the
+current, such high waves were raised, that the boat took in a good deal
+of water. The fog now cleared away, and the three eminences mistaken for
+islands were ascertained to be conical hummocks, rising above the low
+eastern shore. We pushed for the nearest, and landed a short distance
+from its base at eight <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> On going to the summit of this eminence, in
+the expectation of obtaining the bearings of several distant points, we
+were a little disappointed to find that only <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[Pg 48]</a></span>the low shores of
+Pitt Island were visible, extending from S.E. to W.N.W., though we were
+repaid for our visit by observing two moose deer quietly browsing on the
+tops of the willows, a short distance from us. Mr. Kendall hastened down
+to despatch Baptiste in pursuit of them, who returned an hour afterwards
+to inform us that he had wounded one, which he had been prevented from
+following by the loss of his powder-horn. As there was no possibility of
+our getting forward until the gale abated, Baptiste and Augustus were
+sent out to hunt, there being numerous tracks of moose and rein-deer in
+the neighbourhood of the tent. I also despatched Mr. Kendall, with two
+seamen, to walk some distance into the interior, and endeavour to clear
+up the doubt whether we were upon the main shore, or upon an island. The
+astronomical observations obtained at the encampment place it in
+latitude 69&deg; 3' 45" N., longitude 135&deg; 44' 57" W. A tide-pole
+was put up immediately on our landing, and we perceived the water to
+rise about three inches in the course of the forenoon, and to fall the
+same quantity in the evening. The temperature of the air did not exceed
+forty-eight degrees all this day: when in the river, it used to vary
+from 55&deg; to 70&deg;. Mr. Kendall came back in the evening, bringing
+the agreeable intelligence that he had assisted in killing a female
+moose and her calf, and that Augustus had shot a rein-deer. Some men
+were sent to carry the meat to the borders of a river which Mr. Kendall
+had discovered, while the boat went round to its entrance about one mile
+from the encampment. They returned at sunset. Many geese and ducks were
+seen by our hunters. Throughout the whole of Mr. Kendall's walk, of
+twelve or fourteen miles, he saw only the same kind of flat land,
+covered with the dwarf willow and the moose-berry plant, as was
+discovered from the tent, except one small lake, and the river that has
+been mentioned, issuing from it.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenotel">Tuesday, 16th.</span>The atmosphere was so thick on the morning of the 16th as
+to confine our view to a few yards; we therefore remained at the
+encampment till the sun had sufficient power to remove the fog:
+temperature of the air 39&deg;. Embarking at eleven <span class="smcap">a.m.</span>, we continued
+our course along the shore of Ellice Island, until we found its coast
+trending southward of east. There we landed, and were rejoiced at the
+sea-like appearance to the northward. This point is in latitude 69&deg;
+14' N., longitude 135&deg; 57' W., and forms the north-eastern entrance
+to the main channel of the Mackenzie River, which, from Slave Lake to
+this point, is one thousand and forty-five <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[Pg 49]</a></span>miles according to our
+survey. An island was now discovered to the N.E., looking blue from its
+distance, towards which the boat was immediately directed. The water,
+which for the last eight miles had been very shallow, became gradually
+deeper, and of a more green colour, though still fresh, even when we had
+entirely lost sight of the eastern land. In the middle of the traverse,
+we were caught by a strong contrary wind, against which our crews
+cheerfully contended for five hours, though drenched by the spray, and
+even by the waves, which came into the boat. Unwilling to return without
+attaining the object of our search, when the strength of the rowers was
+nearly exhausted, as a last resource, the sails were set double-reefed,
+and our excellent boat mounted over the waves in the most buoyant
+manner. An opportune alteration of the wind enabled us, in the course of
+another hour, to fetch into smoother water, under the shelter of the
+island. We then pulled across a line of strong ripple which marked the
+termination of the fresh water, that on the seaward side being brackish;
+and in the further progress of three miles to the island, we had the
+indescribable pleasure of finding the water decidedly salt.</p>
+
+<p>The sun was setting as the boat touched the beach, and we hastened to
+the most elevated part of the island, about two hundred and fifty feet
+high, to look around; and never was a prospect more gratifying than that
+which lay open to us. The Rocky Mountains were seen from S.W. to
+W.&frac12;N.; and from the latter point, round by the north, the sea
+appeared in all its majesty, entirely free from ice, and without any
+visible obstruction to its navigation. Many seals, and black and white
+whales were sporting on its waves; and the whole scene was calculated to
+excite in our minds the most flattering expectations as to our own
+success, and that of our friends in the Hecla and the Fury. There were
+two groups of islands at no great distance; to the one bearing
+south-east I had the pleasure of affixing the name of my excellent
+friend and companion Mr. Kendall, and to that bearing north-east the
+name of Pelly was given, as a tribute justly due to the Governor of the
+Hudson Bay Company, for his earnest endeavours to promote the progress
+and welfare of the Expedition. A similar feeling towards my much
+esteemed friend Mr. Garry, the Deputy Governor of the Company, prompted
+me to appropriate his name to the island on which we stood,&mdash;a
+poor, indeed, but heartfelt expression of gratitude, for all his active
+kindness and indefatigable attention to the comfort of myself and my
+companions.</p>
+
+<p>During our absence the men had pitched the tent on the beach, and I
+caused the silk union-flag to be hoisted, which <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[Pg 50]</a></span>my
+deeply-lamented wife had made and presented to me, as a parting gift,
+under the express injunction that it was not to be unfurled before the
+Expedition reached the sea. I will not attempt to describe my emotions
+as it expanded to the breeze&mdash;however natural, and, for the moment,
+irresistible, I felt that it was my duty to suppress them, and that I
+had no right, by an indulgence of my own sorrows, to cloud the animated
+countenances of my companions. Joining, therefore, with the best grace
+that I could command, in the general excitement, I endeavoured to return
+with corresponding cheerfulness, their warm congratulations on having
+thus planted the British flag on this remote island of the Polar Sea.</p>
+
+<p>Some spirits, which had been saved for the occasion, were issued to the
+men; and with three fervent cheers they drank to the health of our
+beloved monarch, and to the continued success of our enterprize. Mr.
+Kendall and I had also reserved a little of our brandy, in order to
+celebrate this interesting event; but Baptiste, in his delight of
+beholding the sea, had set before us some salt water, which having been
+mixed with the brandy before the mistake was discovered, we were
+reluctantly obliged to forego the intended draught, and to use it in the
+more classical form of a libation poured on the ground.</p>
+
+<p>Baptiste, on discovering that he had actually reached the ocean, stuck
+his feathers in his hat, and exultingly exclaimed, "Now that I am one of
+the <i>Gens de la mer</i>, you shall see how active I will be, and how I will
+crow over the <i>Gens du nord</i>," the name by which the Athabasca voyagers
+are designated. No fresh water was found on Garry Island until Augustus
+discovered a small lake, the streams that poured down from the cliffs
+being as salt as the sea. The temperature of the sea water was 51&deg;;
+the fresh water we had left at five miles from the island 55&deg;; and
+that of the air 52&deg;.</p>
+
+<p>Garry Island is about five miles long, by two broad, and seems to be a
+mass of frozen mud, which, in the parts exposed to the air and sun, has
+a black earthy appearance. It is terminated to the north-west by a
+steep cliff, through which protrude, in a highly inclined position,
+several layers of wood-coal, similar to that found in the Mackenzie.
+There was likewise observed a bituminous liquid trickling down in many
+parts, but particularly near the south-west point of the cliff where the
+bank had been broken away, and a hollow cavity was formed. The ravines
+and gullies were still filled with ice, though none was seen on the
+level ground. There were no stones above the sea level; those on the
+beach consisted of granite, greenstone, quartz, and lydian-stone, of a
+small size and completely rounded.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[Pg 51]</a></span> The vegetable productions
+were grasses, a few mosses, and some shrubs, the latter in flower. Four
+foxes were the only land animals we saw; and a small hawk, some gulls,
+dotterels, and phaleropes, composed the list of birds. A large medusa
+was found on the beach.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenote">Wednesday, 17th.</span>The sky was cloudless on the morning of the 17th, which
+enabled us to ascertain the position of our encampment to be in latitude
+69&deg; 29' N., longitude 135&deg; 41' W., and the variation of the
+magnetic needle to be 51&deg; 42' E. We likewise found that it was high
+water that day at one <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> with a rise and fall of eight inches, but the
+direction of the flood could not be ascertained. I wrote for Captain
+Parry an account of our progress, with such information as he might
+require, in case he wished to communicate either with the Company's Post
+at Fort Good Hope, or our party, and deposited my letter, with many
+others that I had in charge for himself and the officers of the ships,
+under a pole erected for the purpose, on which we left a blue and red
+flag flying, to attract his attention. Another statement of our
+proceedings was encased in a waterproof box, and committed to the sea, a
+mile to the northward of the island. The wind blew strong off the land
+at the time, and there was a gale from the north-west the next day, so
+that there is every chance of the letter having made good way to the
+eastward.</p>
+
+<p>Having completed the observations, we embarked at two <span class="smcap">p.m.</span>, and pulled
+along the western shore of the island three miles to the sandy spit at
+its south-west end, on which there was a vast quantity of drift-wood
+piled by the action of the waves. From this point we launched forth to
+cross towards the Mackenzie under double-reefed sails, as the wind was
+blowing strong, and the waves high in the offing; but finding the boat
+very stiff and buoyant, the sail was increased, and reaching the eastern
+point of Ellice Island by seven <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> we encamped at the foot of the
+outermost of the three hummocks mentioned on the 15th of August. As we
+passed along the shore of the island, we disturbed some moose and
+rein-deer, and several geese, cranes, and swans, that were quietly
+feeding near the water. At this period of the year, therefore, there
+would be no lack of food, in this country, for the skilful hunter. In
+the course of the evening I found that a piece of the wood-coal from
+Garry's Island, which I had placed in my pocket, had ignited
+spontaneously, and scorched the metal powder-horn by its side.</p>
+
+<p>Our enterprising precursor, Sir Alexander Mackenzie, has been blamed for
+asserting that he had reached the sea, without <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[Pg 52]</a></span>having ascertained
+that the water was salt. He, in fact, clearly states that he never did
+reach the salt water. The danger to which his canoe was exposed in
+venturing two or three miles beyond Whale Island, (which lies to the
+eastward of our route,) at a time when the sea was covered with ice to
+the north, is a sufficient reason for his turning back; and we can
+abundantly testify that those frail vessels are totally unfitted to
+contend against such winds and seas as we experienced in advancing
+beyond the volume of fresh water poured out by the Mackenzie. It is
+probable, therefore, that even had the sea been free from ice at the
+time of his visit, he could not have gone far enough to prove its
+saltness, though the boundless horizon, the occurrence of a tide, and
+the sight of porpoises and whales, naturally induced him to say that he
+had arrived at the ocean. The survey of the Mackenzie made on this
+Expedition, differs very little in its outline from that of its
+discoverer, whose general correctness we had often occasion to admire.
+We had, indeed, to alter the latitude and longitude of some of its
+points, which he most probably laid down from magnetic bearings only;
+and it is proper to remark, that in comparing our magnetic bearings with
+his, throughout the whole course of the river, they were found to be
+about fifteen degrees more easterly; which may, therefore, be considered
+as the amount of increase in variation since 1789. In justice to the
+memory of Mackenzie, I hope the custom of calling this the Great River,
+which is in general use among the traders and voyagers, will be
+discontinued, and that the name of its eminent discoverer may be
+universally adopted.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenote">Thursday, 18th.</span>The excursions to Garry Island having made us acquainted
+with the state of the sea to the northward, and having shown that, the
+bank at the mouth of the river being passed, there was no visible
+impediment to a boat's proceeding eastward, I was desirous of making
+further examination in aid of the future operations of the Expedition,
+by going over to the western shore, and of reaching, if possible, the
+foot of the Rocky Mountains. With these intentions we embarked at nine
+<span class="smcap">a.m.</span>, but before we could get half way to the nearest part of Pitt
+Island, a gale of wind came on from N.W., followed by violent squalls,
+which, from the threatening appearance of the clouds, and the rapid
+descent of the thermometer from 68&deg; to 51&deg;, seemed likely to be
+of some continuance. The design was, therefore, abandoned, and the
+boat's head directed towards the entrance of the river. It proved,
+however, no easy task to get into the proper channel; and to effect this
+object the officers and crew had to drag the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[Pg 53]</a></span>boat half a mile
+over a bar, while the waves were beating into it with such force as to
+make us apprehensive of its being swamped. As soon as we were in deep
+water, all the sail was set that the boat could bear, and at two <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> we
+arrived at the narrow part. Here, likewise, the waves were high and
+breaking, and for the purpose of avoiding these and the strength of the
+current, we kept as close to the shore as possible, going through the
+water at seven miles an hour, and about four over the current. The wild
+fowl, warned by the sudden change of the weather, took advantage of this
+fair wind, and hastened away in large flights to the southward. At ten
+<span class="smcap">p.m.</span>, the boat having twice grounded, from our not being able to see our
+way clearly, we halted to sup, and laid down to sleep before a good
+fire. Temperature at 45&deg;.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenote">Friday, 19th.</span>When daylight permitted us to distinguish the channels, we
+embarked again, and scudded under the foresail before the gale, which
+this day blew with increased violence. We halted to breakfast near some
+winter habitations of the Esquimaux, which we supposed, from the
+freshness of the wood-shavings, and the implements of fishing that were
+scattered about them, had been abandoned only in the preceding spring;
+and as it was probable they would revisit this spot, we fixed to the
+pole of a tent a present of a kettle, knife, hatchet, file, ice-chisel,
+some beads, and pieces of red and blue cloth. These huts were
+constructed of drift wood, in a similar manner to those which will be
+described in a subsequent part of the narrative. A second present was
+deposited at some other huts, and a third at those below the rapids. We
+imagined that some, if not all, of these would be found by the
+Esquimaux, and would make them acquainted with our visit. By noon we had
+advanced as far as the rapid, which we ascended under sail; and at a few
+miles above this point, owing to the fogginess of the atmosphere, we
+took a more western channel than that by which we descended. This proved
+circuitous, though it ultimately brought us to the former route. It was
+quite dark before we could find a secure place for the boat, and a
+sheltered spot for the tent. The gale continued without abatement, the
+weather was raw and cold, and it was with difficulty we collected some
+sticks to kindle a fire. Temperature 40&deg;.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenote">Saturday, 20th.</span>On the 20th the wind was moderate. We resumed our journey
+at four <span class="smcap">a.m.</span>; past our sleeping-place of the 12th by noon, and at sunset
+encamped at the narrow part of the river where the numerous channels
+commence. Large flights of geese and swans were observed <span class='pagenum'><a
+name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[Pg 54]</a></span>passing to the southward all this
+day. The musquitoes again made their appearance, though the temperature
+was at 45&deg;: scarcely any of them had been seen on the descent to the
+sea.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenotel">Sunday, 21st.</span>Temperature at day light, on the 21st, 37&deg;. We
+commenced our labour under oars, but a strong gale from the southward
+soon rendered this mode of ascending the river ineffectual. The men
+were, therefore, divided into two parties, who towed the boat by line,
+relieving each other at intervals of an hour and a half. At fifty
+minutes past one <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> we were abreast of the Red River, and there met a
+large party of the lower Loucheux Indians, who had assembled to wait our
+arrival. They welcomed our return with every demonstration of joy, more
+particularly that of Augustus and Baptiste, and at first cheerfully
+assisted the men in towing, but, like Indians in general, they soon
+became tired of this labour, and rather impeded than forwarded our
+progress. So we distributed to each a present; made known as well as
+well as we could by signs, that at our next visit we would purchase
+whatever fish or meat they might collect, and took our leave of them.
+Owing to the detention these men and another party occasioned, we were
+caught by a heavy gale from N.W. before we could reach our encampment at
+the head of the Narrows, and had to pitch the tent in pelting rain.
+Temperature 43&deg;.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenotel">Monday, 22nd.</span>On the 22nd, we started at four in a thick wet fog, which
+gave place to snow and sleet, and sailed the whole day before a strong
+N.W. wind, much to the annoyance of several Indians who tried to keep
+pace with the boat, by running along the shore: each of them had a
+present of tobacco thrown to him. We encamped near the bottom of
+Cannon-Shot Reach; the weather was extremely cold, and, during the
+night, ice was formed in the kettle. <span class="sidenotel">Tuesday, 23rd.</span>On the next day the
+wind came contrary from S.E., which obliged us to have recourse to the
+tow-line. The frequent recurrence of sand-banks, to avoid which we had
+either to pull round or cross the river, made this day's operations very
+tedious. In turning round one of the points, we came suddenly upon a
+party of Indians, who had not seen us on our way down. Our appearance,
+therefore, created great alarm; the women and children were instantly
+despatched to the woods, and the men came down to the beach with their
+guns and arrows prepared, and knives drawn; but the explanation that
+Baptiste gave, soon allayed their fears. They were, indeed, objects of
+pity; all their property had been destroyed to testify their grief at
+the death of some of their relations, and the bodies of several were
+still sore from the deep gashes they <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[Pg 55]</a></span>had inflicted on themselves
+in their demonstrations of sorrow. We distributed such useful articles
+among them as we had remaining, but the supply was not at all equal to
+their necessities. Several of them attempted to follow us in their
+canoes by poling, which they dexterously perform by pushing at the same
+time with a pole or paddle in each hand; the boat however, was towed
+faster than they could ascend the stream, and they were soon far behind.
+We arrived at six <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> at the Trading River, and there met another party
+of the Loucheux, among whom was the woman whose tears had excited our
+sympathy on the 11th, now in high glee, and one of the most importunate
+for beads. The boy was likewise there to whom the tea had been given as
+a remedy for his fever, completely recovered, which was, no doubt,
+ascribed to the efficacy of the medicine. Not choosing to encamp near
+these people, we crossed the river, and towed four hours longer, when we
+reached Fort Good Hope. Mr. Dease, and all his fort, were overjoyed on
+seeing us again, because the Indians had begun to surmise, and in fact
+had brought a report that we had all been massacred by the Esquimaux;
+and had we been detained another week, this statement would have gained
+entire credence, and, in all probability, spread throughout the country.</p>
+
+<p>The Indian whose fish we carried on our way down, happened to be at the
+fort, and he cheerfully communicated, through the interpreter, a female,
+all the information that he or his tribe possessed respecting the mouth
+of the river, the sea-coast, and the Esquimaux, all topics highly
+interesting to us, but we subsequently found that his knowledge of these
+matters was very imperfect. We made known to him our wish that the
+Esquimaux should be informed of our arrival as soon as possible, and
+signified that a very substantial present would be given to any person
+that would carry the intelligence to them in the course of the following
+winter. Mr. Dease pressed this point strongly on his consideration. This
+gentleman, indeed, was anxious to promote our desires in every respect,
+and promised that his utmost exertions should be used to procure a good
+supply of provision for our next summer's voyage, though he represented
+the hunters in this vicinity as unskilful and inactive, and begged of me
+not to rely too much on his collection. We left in his charge five bags
+of pemmican, and the superfluous stores, to lighten the boats. We
+quitted the fort in the afternoon with a contrary wind, and towed twenty
+miles up the stream before we encamped, though the beach was composed of
+sharp stones, which rendered walking very unpleasant.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[Pg 56]</a></span></p> <p>The wind being contrary during the four following days, we could
+only ascend the river by using the tracking line. Our crew cheerfully
+performed this tedious service, though three of them had been much
+reduced by dysentery, brought on by previous fatigue, exposure to wet,
+and by their having lived for some time on dried provision. These men,
+however, had gradually been gaining strength since the fresh meat was
+procured on Ellice Island.</p>
+
+<p>On the 25th we came to the aspen, poplar, and larch, in latitude 67&deg;
+10' N., and were not a little surprised to observe the change in their
+foliage within the last fortnight. Their leaves had assumed the autumnal
+tint, and were now fast falling. The wild fowl were hastening in large
+flocks to the south, and every appearance warned us that the fine season
+drew near its close.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenotel">28th.</span>In the passage through the rampart defile, several families of the
+Hare Indians were observed encamped on the heights, for the purpose of
+gathering berries which were at this time ripe, and in the best flavour.
+At the first sight of the boat the women and children scampered down
+wherever descent was practicable, to get at their canoes, that they
+might cross over to us, but we travelled so fast that only a few could
+overtake the boat. The Indians who reside near this river, from their
+want of skill in hunting, principally subsist, from spring to autumn, on
+the produce of their fishing nets, and on wild berries. At the influx of
+small streams, or wherever there is any eddy, a net is set. In shallow
+water it is suspended upon sticks planted in a semicircle, so as to
+enclose the mouth of the river, or the sweep of the eddy; but where the
+water is deep, and the shore bold or rocky, two stout poles are firmly
+secured at a short distance from the water's edge, the breadth of a net
+apart, to the ends of which pliable rods are fastened, of a length
+sufficient to hang over the water, and to these the net is attached. In
+the winter these Indians snare hares, which are very abundant in this
+quarter.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenotel">29th.</span>On the 29th we arrived at the upper rapids, which were scarcely
+discernible at the time of our descent; but from the falling of the
+water since that time, there was a dry sand-bank of considerable extent
+in the centre, and the waters on each side of it were broken and covered
+with foam. Augustus being tired with tracking, had wandered from us to
+the extremity of this bank, from whence he could not be extricated
+without great hazard, unless by making him return to the bottom of the
+rapid. As this, however, would have compelled the poor fellow to pass
+the night upon the sand-bank,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[Pg 57]</a></span> Mr. Kendall undertook to bring him
+off, by running with the current to the point at the commencement of the
+rapids, which he effected in a masterly manner, although the boat struck
+twice, and was in considerable danger from the violence of the eddies.</p>
+
+<p>We found, at the place of our encampment, a solitary old woman, sitting
+by a small fire, who seemed somewhat alarmed at her visitors, until she
+was joined, after dark, by her husband and son. As soon as the man
+understood from our signs that we were desirous of having some fish for
+supper, he instantly embarked to examine his nets; but as they proved to
+be empty, the woman generously dragged a pike out of a bundle on which
+she was sitting, and presented it to us, though it was evidently
+reserved for their own meal. In return we furnished them with a more
+substantial supper, and made them some useful presents. The weather was
+extremely sultry throughout this day; at two <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> the thermometer stood
+in the shade at 66&deg;, and at 76&deg; when exposed to the sun. The
+refraction of the atmosphere, which we had often remarked to be
+unusually great since we had entered the Mackenzie, was this day
+particularly powerful. The mountains were distorted into the most
+extraordinary shapes, and the banks of the river, which we knew to be
+only from thirty to sixty feet high, appeared to have such an elevation,
+that it would have been impossible for us to recognise the land. The air
+became cooler in the evening, and the atmosphere less refractive. Soon
+after sunset the objects appeared in their proper form, and we enjoyed
+the prospect of the delightful mountain scenery that distinguishes this
+rapid.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenote">Tuesday, 30th.</span>Favoured by a N.W. gale, we made great progress on the
+30th. The temperature of the air varied in the course of the day from
+62&deg; to 41&deg;. The brul&ocirc;ts and sand-flies were very teazing
+wherever we landed; but these, unlike the musquitoes, disappear with the
+sun.</p>
+
+<p>The upper parts of the Rocky Mountains on the western side of the river
+were, at this time, covered with snow, but not those of the eastern
+side, which are, probably, less elevated than the former. We had no
+opportunity of ascertaining their height, though we conjectured that the
+loftiest did not exceed two thousand feet, as it was free from snow in
+the early part of August.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenote">September, 1st.</span>At sunset this evening we quitted the muddy waters of the
+Mackenzie, and entered the clear stream that flows from the Great Bear
+Lake; but owing to the shallowness of the water near its mouth, and the
+beach <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[Pg 58]</a></span>being a mere collection of stones, we had to grope our way
+long after dark in search of a place for an encampment, stumbling and
+falling at every step. At length we espied a light about a mile further
+up the river on the opposite shore; we, therefore, crossed over, at the
+expense of some heavy blows to the boat, and tracked along the base of a
+steep bank, until we reached the fire. There we found a Canadian and two
+Indian boys who had been sent from Bear Lake three days before in a
+canoe, to procure some white mud from the banks of the MacKenzie to
+decorate our house. This man was the bearer of a letter from Lieutenant
+Back to me, which detailed the proceedings at the Fort.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenotel">Friday, 2nd.</span>We embarked at daylight, having the canoe in company. The
+weather was cold and raw throughout the day; the temperature from
+34&deg; to 45&deg;; but the party were kept in constant exercise, either
+in tracking or walking; the steersman and bowman only being required in
+the boat. Except where the river was bounded by steep cliffs, the path
+was pretty good. Its general breadth varied from three hundred to five
+hundred yards, and its banks were tolerably well wooded, but the trees
+were small.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenotel">Saturday, 3rd.</span>This morning the ground was firmly frozen, and the
+thermometer stood at 28&deg;, when we commenced our operations. Early in
+the afternoon we arrived at the lower part of the mountain, and which we
+had kept in view this day, and the greater part of the preceding. As we
+had now to ascend a succession of rapids for fifteen miles, and two of
+our crew were lame, I directed the canoe to be laid up on the shore, and
+took the Canadian and the boys to assist at the tow-line. We had not
+advanced more than two miles before we met with an accident that was
+likely to have been attended with serious consequences: in the act of
+hauling round a projecting point, and in the strength of the current,
+the tow-line broke, and the boat was driven with great force against a
+large stone at some distance from the shore, having deep water on every
+side. There it lay with the broadside exposed to the whole pressure of
+the current, beating violently against the stone; and from this
+situation it could not have been extricated, had not Gustavus Aird, the
+strongest man of the party, ventured to wade into the river at the
+imminent risque of being swept off his feet, until he could catch the
+rope that was thrown to him from the boat. As soon as it was dragged to
+the shore, we found that part of the keel was gone, and the remainder
+much twisted, and all the fastenings of the lowest plank were loosened.
+The <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[Pg 59]</a></span>carpenter set to work to repair this mischief in the best
+manner he could with the materials he had, and before night the boat was
+again launched. The leaks, however, could not be quite stopped, and in
+our further progress one of the men was constantly employed baling out
+the water.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenote">Sunday, 4th.</span>The next day's operations were tedious and hazardous as long
+as the rapids continued. The men had to walk with the tow-line along a
+narrow ledge that jutted out from the base of a steep rocky cliff, which
+was very slippery from the rain that had fallen in the night: a false
+step might have proved fatal; and we rejoiced when, having passed the
+rapids, we found earthy banks and a better path. The services of
+Augustus and the Indian lads being no longer required, I despatched them
+to the Fort, to apprize the party there of our approach.</p>
+
+<p>We had a severe frost this night: at daylight in the morning the
+thermometer was down to 20&deg;, and a raw fog contributed to make the
+weather very cold and comfortless. The sun shone forth about eleven, and
+soon dispersed the fog, and then the temperature gradually rose to
+54&deg;.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenote">Monday, 5th.</span>At four <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> we arrived at the foot of the upper rapid, and
+in two hours afterwards entered the Great Bear Lake, and reached the
+house at seven. Dr. Richardson having returned from his voyage to the
+northern part of the lake, the members of the Expedition were now, for
+the first time, all assembled. We heartily congratulated each other on
+this circumstance, and also on the prospect of being snugly settled in
+our winter-quarters before the severe weather. Dr. Richardson had
+surveyed the Bear Lake to the influx of Dease's River, near its N.E.
+termination, at which point it is nearest to the Coppermine River. He
+fixed upon the first rapid in Dease River as the best point to which the
+eastern detachment of the Expedition could direct its steps, on its
+return from the mouth of the Coppermine River the following season. The
+rapid was, by observation, in latitude 66&deg; 53' N., and longitude
+118&deg; 35' W., and the variation of the magnetic needle there, was
+47&deg; 29' E.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[Pg 60]</a></span></p> <h6>THE FOLLOWING TABLE CONTAINS THE DISTANCES TRAVELLED<br />BY THE
+EXPEDITION DURING THE SUMMER OF 1825.</h6>
+
+<table class="lines"> <tr><td class="tdc">Principal Places.</td><td class="tdr">Statute<br />Miles.</td></tr> <tr valign="top"><td rowspan="3">From New York to Penetanguishene, by the
+route we travelled<br /> &nbsp;&nbsp;Lake Huron<br /> &nbsp;&nbsp;Lake Superior<br /> From
+Fort William to Cumberland House<br /> &nbsp;&nbsp;Cumberland House to Fort
+Chipewyan<br /> &nbsp;&nbsp;Chipewyan to Fort Resolution, Slave Lake<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp;Fort Resolution to the commencement of the Mackenzie<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp;Head of the Mackenzie to Fort Simpson<br /> &nbsp;&nbsp;Fort
+Simpson to Bear Lake River<br /> &nbsp;&nbsp;Bear Lake River to, and the
+return from, Garry Island<br /> Length of the Bear Lake River to the Fort<br /> Dr.
+Richardson's excursion to the north-east termination of Bear Lake<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Distance travelled<br />
+&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Number of Miles surveyed</td> <td class="tdr">760<br /> 250<br />
+406<br /> 1018<br /> 840<br /> 240<br /> 135<br /> 103<br /> 271<br /> 1206<br /> 91<br /> 483</td></tr> <tr><td class="tdr">5803</td></tr> <tr><td class="tdr">2593</td></tr> </table>
+
+<p><br /></p> <div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_1_1" id="Footnote_1_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1_1"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> An attentive perusal of Sir Alexander Mackenzie's Narrative leads me
+to the conclusion, that it was this northern branch which that traveller
+pursued in his voyage to Whale Island.</p></div> </div>
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" /> <p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[Pg 61]</a></span></p> <h2><a name="CHAPTER_II" id="CHAPTER_II"></a>CHAPTER II.</h2>
+
+<h4>TRANSACTIONS AT FORT FRANKLIN, 1825-26.</h4>
+
+
+<p>Mr. <span class="smcap">Dease</span> having passed the winter of 1824-25 at the Big Island of
+Mackenzie, arrived here with fifteen Canadian voyagers, Beaulieu, the
+interpreter, and four Chipewyan hunters, on the twenty-seventh of July,
+1825; which, on account of the drifting of the ice, was as soon as he
+could, with safety, ascend the Bear Lake River. Several of the Dog-Rib
+Indians were on the spot, which enabled him to take immediate steps
+towards procuring a supply of dried meat for our winter use, as well as
+of fresh meat for present consumption. It having been ascertained that
+the Rein-deer are most abundant in the north-east quarter of the lake,
+during the months of August and September, a select party of Indians was
+despatched to hunt thereabout, under the direction of the interpreter,
+who took a large canoe for the purpose of bringing home the produce of
+their hunt. Other men were sent to inform the Hare Indians of our wish
+to purchase any meat they might bring to the establishment. Our
+principal subsistence, however, was, to be derived from the water, and
+Mr. Dease was determined in the selection of the spot on which our
+residence was to be erected, by its proximity to that part of the lake
+where the fish had usually been abundant. The place decided upon was the
+site of an old fort belonging to the North-West Company, which had been
+abandoned many years; our buildings being required of a much larger
+size, we derived very little benefit from its materials. The wood in the
+immediate vicinity having been all cut down for fuel by the former
+residents, the party was obliged to convey the requisite timber in rafts
+from a considerable distance, which, of course, occasioned trouble and
+delay. We found, however, on our arrival, all the buildings in a
+habitable state, but wanting many internal arrangements to fit them for
+a comfortable winter residence. They were disposed so as to form three
+sides of a square, the officers' house being in the centre, those for
+the men on the right, with a house for the interpreter's family, and the
+store on the left. A blacksmith's shop and meat store were added, and
+the whole was inclosed by the stockading of the original fort, which we
+found highly <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[Pg 62]</a></span>serviceable in screening us from the snow-drift and
+wintry blasts. The officers' dwelling measured forty-four feet by
+twenty-four, and contained a hall and four apartments, beside a kitchen.
+That of the men was thirty-six feet by twenty-three, and was divided
+into three rooms. These buildings were placed on a dry sandy bank, about
+eighty yards from the lake, and twenty-five feet above it; at the
+distance of a half a mile in our rear, the ground rose to the height of
+one hundred and fifty feet, and continued in an even ridge, on which,
+though the timber had been felled, we found plenty of small trees for
+fuel. This ridge bounded our view to the north; and to the west, though
+confined to less than two miles, the prospect was pretty, from its
+embracing a small lake, and the mouth of a narrow stream that flowed in
+at its head. Our southern view commanded the south-west arm of Bear
+Lake, which is here four miles wide, and not deeper than from three to
+five fathoms, except in the channel of the river, which conveys its
+waters to the Mackenzie. We had also, in front, the Clark-hill, a
+mountain about thirty-six miles distant, which was always visible in
+clear weather. When the refraction was great, we saw the tops of some
+other hills, belonging to the range that extends from Clark-hill to the
+rapid in Bear Lake River.</p>
+
+<p>Immediately under the sandy soil on which the house stood, there is a
+bed of tenacious bluish clay, of unknown thickness, which, even in the
+months of August and September, was firmly frozen at the depth of
+twenty-one inches from the surface. No rocks were exposed in any part,
+and wherever the surface had been torn up, a clayey soil appeared. Many
+boulder stones of granite, limestone, sandstone and trap rocks, were
+scattered about the lake, not far from the shore.</p>
+
+<p>The trees at some distance from our fort consisted of black and white
+spruce, and larch, generally small, though a few of the better grown
+measured from four to five feet in girth, and were from fifty to
+fifty-five feet high. Dr. Richardson ascertained, by counting the annual
+rings, that some of them, in a sound state, were upwards of one hundred
+and thirty years old; while others, which were not much greater in size,
+had two hundred and fifty rings, but these were decayed at the heart.</p>
+
+<p>The officers had done me the honour, previous to my arrival, of giving
+the name of Franklin to the fort, which I felt a grateful pleasure in
+retaining at their desire, though I had intended naming it Fort
+Reliance. The number of persons belonging to the establishment amounted
+to fifty: consisting of five officers, including Mr. Dease; nineteen
+British seamen, marines, and voyagers; nine Canadians; two Esquimaux;
+Beaulieu, and <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[Pg 63]</a></span>four Chipewyan hunters; three women, six children,
+and one Indian lad; besides a few infirm Indians, who required temporary
+support. This party was far too large to gain subsistence by fishing at
+one station only; two houses were, therefore, constructed at four and
+seven miles distance, from the fort, to which parties were sent,
+provided with the necessary fishing implements; and not more than thirty
+persons were left to reside at the principal establishment. From fifteen
+to twenty nets were kept in use, under the superintendence of Pascal
+Cot&eacute;, an experienced fisherman, who had two assistants. These
+were placed opposite the house, and towards the end of summer, and in
+autumn, they yielded daily from three to eight hundred fish, of the kind
+called "the Herring Salmon of Bear Lake," and occasionally some trout,
+tittameg, and carp. Four Dog-Rib Indians, who were engaged to hunt the
+Rein-deer in the neighbourhood of the fort, from want of skill,
+contributed very little fresh meat to our store. Augustus and Ooligbuck
+employed themselves in the same service, but from not being accustomed
+to hunt in a woody country, they were not more successful.</p>
+
+<p>The consideration of next importance to furnishing the party with food,
+was to provide regular occupation for the men, who had not the resources
+to employ their time which the officers possessed. Accordingly, some
+were appointed to attend exclusively to the fishing nets, others to
+bring home the meat whenever the hunters killed any deer; some were
+stationed to fell wood for fuel, others to convey it to the house, and a
+third set to split it for use. Two of the most expert travellers on
+snow-shoes were kept in nearly constant employment conveying letters to
+and from the posts in the Mackenzie and Slave Lake. As the days
+shortened, it was necessary to find employment during the long evenings,
+for those resident at the house, and a school was, therefore,
+established on three nights of the week, from seven o'clock to nine, for
+their instruction, in reading, writing, and arithmetic; and it was
+attended by most of the British party. They were divided in equal
+portions amongst the officers, whose labour was amply repaid by the
+advancement their pupils made: some of those who began with the
+alphabet, learned to read and write with tolerable correctness. Sunday
+was a day of rest; and, with the exception of two or three of the
+Canadians, the whole party uniformly attended Divine service, morning
+and evening. If, on the other evenings for which no particular
+occupation was appointed, the men felt the time tedious, or if they
+expressed <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[Pg 64]</a></span>a wish to vary their employments, the hall was at their
+service, to play any game they might choose; and on these occasions they
+were invariably joined by the officers. By thus participating in their
+amusements, the men became more attached to us, at the same time that we
+contributed to their health and cheerfulness. The hearts and feelings of
+the whole party were united into one common desire to make the time pass
+as agreeably as possible to each other, until the return of spring
+should enable them to resume the great object of the Expedition.</p>
+
+<p>The officers found employment in making and registering the
+thermometrical, magnetical, and atmospherical observations, which were
+hourly noted from eight <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> to midnight; and, in addition to the duties
+which they had in common, each had a peculiar department allotted to
+him.</p>
+
+<p>Lieutenant Back had the superintendence of the men; and the accurate
+drawings which he finished during the winter, from sketches taken on the
+voyage, afford ample proof of his diligence and skill. Dr. Richardson,
+besides the duties of medical officer, which, from the numerous
+applications made by the natives, were not inconsiderable, devoted his
+attention to natural history, as well as to a series of observations on
+the force of the sun's radiation. Mr. Kendall constructed all the charts
+after the data had been recalculated by myself; he also made several
+drawings; and he undertook an interesting series of observations on the
+velocity of sound. To Mr. Dease the charge was committed of whatever
+related to the procuring and issuing of provision, and the entire
+management of the Canadian voyagers and Indians.</p>
+
+<p>Previous to the officers leaving London, Dr. Fitton, President of the
+Geological Society, had the kindness to devote much of his time to their
+instruction in geology; and having furnished them with a portable
+collection for the purpose of reference on the voyage, Dr. Richardson,
+when he had leisure, explained these specimens, weekly, to the party,
+and assisted them in reading on this science, which proved a most
+agreeable and useful recreation to us all.</p>
+
+<p>Some of the preceding remarks refer to a period of our residence later
+than that which I am about to enter upon; but I thought it best to
+insert them here, that the mention of them might not interrupt the
+narrative of occurrences which I shall now resume.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenotel">Thursday, 8th.</span>On September 8th, two men were sent off to Slave Lake, in
+a canoe, with a despatch, containing an account of our proceedings,
+addressed to His Majesty's <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[Pg 65]</a></span>Secretary of State for the Colonies;
+and as we expected letters from England, by the way of Hudson's Bay,
+they directed to await their arrival at Slave Lake. There was almost
+constant rain from the 11th to the 14th, which much retarded the work
+going on out of doors, and particularly the construction of an
+observatory, which we were desirous of completing as soon as possible,
+that the magnetical observations might be commenced. We found
+employment, however, in whitewashing and fitting up the interior of the
+different houses. The 15th proving fine, we established a meridian line,
+and ascertained the variation by each of the compasses.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenote">Tuesday, 20th.</span>Beaulieu returned with his family, the Chipewyan hunters,
+and some Dog-Ribs, bringing a supply of dried meat, rein-deer tongues,
+and fat, sufficient for a month's consumption, which was reserved for
+use when the fishing should become unproductive. These men reported,
+that at the time they quitted the northern shores of the lake, the deer
+were retiring towards this quarter; which intelligence accounted for the
+Indians having killed four within a day's march from the house.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenote">Friday, 23rd.</span>The chimney of the last of the buildings being completed
+this morning, the flag-staff erected, and all the men assembled, we
+commemorated these events by the festivities usual on the opening of a
+new establishment in this country. The first part of the ceremony was to
+salute the flag; the men having drawn themselves up in line, and the
+women and children, and all the Indians resident at the fort, being
+disposed in groups by their side, a deputation came to solicit the
+presence of the officers. When we appeared, we found our guns ornamented
+with blue ribbons, and we were requested to advance and fire at a piece
+of money which was fastened to the flag-staff. The men then fired two
+volleys and gave three hearty cheers, after which Wilson the piper
+struck up a lively tune, and placing himself at the head of his
+companions, marched with them round to the entrance of the hall, where
+they drank to His Majesty's health, and to the success of the
+Expedition. In the evening the hall was opened for a dance, which was
+attended by the whole party, dressed in their gayest attire. The dancing
+was kept up with spirit to the music of the violin and bagpipes, until
+daylight.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenote">Monday, 26th.</span>These entertainments over, Beaulieu and the hunters were
+despatched to the chase, and they soon added two moose-deer to our
+store.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenote">Tuesday, 27th.</span>There had been much rain in the course of the preceding
+week, and the temperature was generally <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[Pg 66]</a></span>mild, but a fall of snow
+took place on the 27th. Some Dog-Ribs came to the fort on that day with
+the produce of their autumnal hunt, which was very inconsiderable, but
+they rendered good service to us by taking away with them several of
+their relations, who had been subsisting on our bounty for some time.
+After their departure there only remained one man of the tribe, who,
+being afflicted with rheumatic fever, was retained under the care of Dr.
+Richardson. Warm clothing was provided for him, and a comfortable
+leathern lodge was erected for himself and family.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenotel">October, 1st.</span>The month of October commenced with frost and snow, and the
+party were now furnished with fur caps, leathern mittens and trowsers,
+and the rest of their warm winter-clothing. This day we completed the
+erection of the observatory, and adjusted an instrument to the magnetic
+meridian, for the purpose of observing the variations of the needle.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenotel">Tuesday, 11th.</span>Much snow fell on the night of the 7th, and on the 11th
+the small lake was firmly frozen over, and the ground in the same state.
+All the migratory birds being now gone, except a few ducks, which still
+lingered in the open water of Bear Lake, we considered this day to be
+the first of the winter. It was remarkably clear and fine, and we hailed
+the commencement of this season with a degree of pleasure, from its
+contrast with the wet unsettled weather which marks the close of summer.
+A few clouds passing over the sun's disk, produced an instantaneous
+depression of ten degrees of the mercury in a thermometer exposed to the
+sun's rays. The atmospherical refraction was remarkably strong at this
+time. We had repeated opportunities, in the course of the winter, of
+observing it to be greatest in similar states of the atmosphere.</p>
+
+<p>The boats were now secured for the winter in a sheltered place, and
+screened as much as possible from the effects of the wind and snow
+drift, by a strong fence made of boughs and branches.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenotel">Friday, 14th.</span>We were surprised on the 14th by the arrival of two
+Canadians from Fort Norman, with letters from Governor Simpson, and
+other gentlemen in the southern districts, containing satisfactory
+answers to the requisitions for stores that I had made in my passage
+through the country. We were also pleased to learn that Thomas Matthews,
+the carpenter, whom we had left at Cumberland House, on account of his
+leg being broken, had reached Fort Norman, in the Company's canoe; and I
+felt much indebted to Mr. James <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[Pg 67]</a></span>Keith, and Mr. Smith, Chief
+Factors, for the care and tenderness with which they had conveyed him
+through the country.</p>
+
+<p>The season at which the ice begins to form, is the most favourable for
+fishing in the lakes of this country, and we then procured from four to
+five hundred daily. Those not required for immediate consumption, were
+hung on a stage to freeze, in which state they keep until the following
+spring. But we could not derive the full advantage from the season,
+because the drift ice, making it unsafe to keep the nets set in Bear
+Lake, they were taken up on the 18th. Near a month elapsed before they
+could be set with safety under the ice; our first attempts resulting in
+the loss of three nets. We procured, however, a few fish from the small
+lake, during this interval, and the rest of our food was supplied from
+the store of dried meat.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenote">Thursday, 20th.</span>We were visited on the 20th by a storm of snow, which
+continued, without intermission, for thirty-six hours. Although it put
+an end to the skating, and the games on the ice, which had been our
+evenings' amusement for the preceding week, yet the change made every
+one glad, because the snow was now deep enough for winter travelling. We
+had learned, some days before, that the hunters had stored fifteen
+rein-deer in the woods, and on the 22nd four men were despatched with
+sledges to bring them to the fort.</p>
+
+<p>The first throw off of the dog-sledges for the season never fails to
+attract general attention; accordingly the whole party was collected to
+witness it on this occasion. They set off at full speed, and were soon
+out of sight. From this time dog-sledges were used to drag the fuel,
+which had been hitherto done by the men. We sent a party to cut down
+timber, and saw it into planks, fit for the construction of another
+boat.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenote">Wednesday, 26th.</span>On the 26th the thermometer first fell below zero, but
+the month closed with a very calm, mild day. Mr. Kendall and I were
+employed in measuring a geographical mile on the small lake, preparatory
+to a series of observations on the velocity of sound. The only ferine
+companions we now had were a few hardy quadrupeds and birds, capable of
+enduring the winter. The variety of the former was confined to wolves,
+foxes, martens, hares, mice, and a few rein-deer. Of the feathered
+tribe, there were the raven and Canadian crow, some snow-birds,
+wood-peckers, red-caps, crossbeaks, Canada, rock, and willow partridges,
+and a few hawks and owls.</p>
+
+<p>Having received information that the Hudson's Bay Company<span class='pagenum'><a
+name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[Pg 68]</a></span> intended sending their annual
+despatch from the Mackenzie River to York Factory, by the close of this
+month, <span class="sidenotel">November, 9th.</span>and the ice on Bear Lake and the Mackenzie River
+being, on the 9th, sufficiently strong, we forwarded a packet of letters
+to Fort Norman, and a dog-sledge to convey Thomas Matthews to this
+place. On the 15th the nets were reset under the ice, and we were
+relieved from the necessity of putting the party on short allowance. We
+had the additional pleasure of learning that the hunters had killed ten
+rein-deer. The men returned from Fort Norman on the 18th, accompanied by
+Thomas Matthews, whose leg was yet too weak for him to walk more than a
+short distance.</p>
+
+<p>During the middle, and towards the close of November, parheli&aelig;
+were frequent; the most brilliant appeared on the 27th; it continued as
+long as the sun was above the horizon. The atmosphere was cloudless, and
+apparently free from haze, except just about the sun, which seemed to
+gleam through a fog. The surrounding circle was nearly complete, and
+displayed the prismatic colours vividly; from the centre of the sun's
+disk a beam of bright light extended upwards several degrees beyond the
+circle. The inner radius of the circle measured 21&deg; 34', and the
+outer 22&deg; 50'. The wind blew fresh all the day from E.N.E., and the
+temperature was 10&deg;. In the evening the moon was encircled by two
+distinct halos; temperature 7&deg;.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenotel">Tuesday, 29th.</span>This morning the principal leader of the Dog-Ribs, and a
+large party of his tribe, came to the Fort. It is usual for Indians, on
+the first visit to an establishment, to make their approach in line,
+with much formality; but on this occasion our visitors showed an unusual
+degree of caution. Their distrust had originated in a very trifling
+occurrence at the close of our house-warming festivities on the 23rd of
+September. Some of the Canadians having asked Mr. Dease if our
+Highlandmen did not come from the same country with the rest of the
+English party, were told that they were natives of the mountainous
+lands, or <i>Montagnards</i>. This name unfortunately being used by the
+voyagers to designate the Dog-Ribs, was considered by the Highlanders to
+be a term of reproach when applied to themselves, and a scuffle ensued.
+Harmony was soon restored by the officers sending the most noisy to bed,
+and next morning the true meaning of the word Montagnard was explained
+to the Highlandmen, and the party set about their usual occupations with
+their wonted good feeling towards each other. Not so with an unlucky
+Dog-Rib, who had been <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[Pg 69]</a></span>attracted to the scene by hearing the name
+applied by the voyagers to his countrymen bandied about from one to the
+other, and thrusting his head into the crowd had received a blow. This
+at once confirmed all his fears, and he fled to spread a report amongst
+his countrymen that the white people intended to destroy the Indians.
+Although his report was not fully believed, yet it produced the feeling
+of distrust which the Indians manifested on their approach to the house.
+It was entirely removed by the explanation we gave. These Indians having
+brought a quantity of furs for the Hudson's Bay Company, as well as
+dried meat for ourselves, and I having understood from Mr. Dease that it
+would be an accommodation to them if they were permitted to deposit
+their furs at this place, instead of carrying them to Fort Norman, I
+acceded to this suggestion, and directed Mr. Dease to advance from our
+stores the goods required for the purchase of the furs, which were to be
+returned when we should visit that fort in the spring.</p>
+
+<p>An old man belonging to the Company's establishment at Fort Norman
+arrived this day with his wife, to stay some time with us, because the
+supply of provision had failed at that post. We felt much pleasure in
+sharing our means with this aged couple, who were much reduced by their
+late scanty fare.</p>
+
+<p>The close of November was marked by a succession of strong east winds,
+and a mildness of temperature, rare at this season. On the 30th the
+thermometer rose from +18&deg; to 29&deg; above zero, on the occurrence
+of a gale from the north.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenote">December, 1st.</span>The first of December being a cloudless day, we
+endeavoured to observe the latitude at noon, but failed, owing to the
+extraordinary atmospherical refraction. <span class="sidenote">Friday, 2nd.</span>midnight, on the
+2nd, there was a shower of hail, so small that we could hardly
+distinguish it from rain. Dr. Richardson thought he perceived lightning.
+Temperature +22&deg;, calm. On the night of the 4th another instance of
+a sudden increase of temperature from +7&deg; to 26&deg; was observed,
+on a north wind succeeding a calm.</p>
+
+<p>The fishery having gradually declined for some days, our nets were
+removed nearer to the entrance of Bear Lake River, where the current
+continued to keep the water open for a considerable space. We then
+procured a daily supply of fish sufficient for the rations of the
+household, as well as the dogs, though our number was now increased by
+the party from the more distant fishery, which had proved unproductive.
+The allowance was seven of the herring salmon to a man per day, and two
+to each dog.</p>
+
+<p>The shortness of the days now precluding the Indians from <span class='pagenum'><a
+name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[Pg 70]</a></span>hunting, many came, according to
+their custom, to spear fish at the head of Bear Lake River, and their
+numbers gradually increased. They were not, however, successful, nor
+diligent, preferring to beg what they could from us, and sending their
+women and children to subsist on the offal of the fish used at the fort.
+To encourage them to greater exertion, I provided them with nets, and
+other fishing materials, but their indolence led them to make a very
+ungrateful return; for on several occasions they emptied our nets in the
+night, and thus not only robbed us of what they took away, but, by
+deranging the nets, deprived us of the whole of that day's supply. We
+never could ascertain the perpetrators of these thefts. The blame was
+invariably thrown on some aged and infirm men, who denied it.
+Notwithstanding the straits to which they became reduced, they could not
+be persuaded to go off to a more productive fishery, until we were
+compelled to withhold all supplies, from fear of starving our own party.
+These Indians showed more indolence, and less regard for truth and
+honesty, than any other tribes with which we had dealings. Their
+sufferings are often extreme, and some of them perish every year from
+famine; although, from the abundance of fish in this country, but slight
+exertion would be required to lay up, at the proper seasons, a stock for
+the whole year.</p>
+
+<p>The difficulty of procuring nourishment frequently induces the women of
+this tribe to destroy their female children. Two pregnant women of the
+party then at the fort, made known their intention of acting on this
+inhuman custom, though Mr. Dease threatened them with our heaviest
+displeasure if they put it into execution: we learned that, after they
+left us, one actually did destroy her child; the infant of the other
+woman proved to be a boy. Infanticide is mentioned by Hearne as a common
+crime amongst the northern Indians, but this was the first instance that
+came under our notice, and I understand it is now very rare amongst the
+Chipewyan tribes;&mdash;an improvement in their moral character which
+may be fairly attributed to the influence of the traders resident among
+them.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenotel">Sunday, 18th.</span>On the 18th a party of sixteen Hare Indians, two Copper
+Indians, and a Loucheux, arrived with sledges of dried rein-deer meat
+and furs. While the house was in confusion from the unpacking of their
+lading, a melancholy scene took place, which excited the warmest
+sympathy. The wife of one of our Dog-Rib hunters brought her only child,
+a female, for medical advice. As she entered the room it was evident
+that the hand of death was upon it. In the absence of Dr. Richardson,
+who happened to be out, all the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[Pg 71]</a></span>remedies were applied that were
+judged likely to be of service; and as soon as he returned, there being
+yet a faint pulsation, other means were tried, but in vain. So gentle
+was its last sigh, that the mother was not at first aware of its death,
+and continued to press the child against her bosom. As soon, however, as
+she perceived that life had fled, she cast herself on the floor in
+agony, heightened by the consciousness of having delayed to seek relief
+till too late, and by apprehension of the anger of her husband, who was
+doatingly attached to the child. The Indians evinced their participation
+in her affliction by silence, and a strong expression of pity in their
+countenances. At the dawn of day the poor creature, though almost
+exhausted by her ceaseless lamentation, carried the body across the lake
+for interment.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenote">Tuesday, 20th.</span>The 20th being a very stormy day, we were surprised at the
+arrival of two voyagers from Fort Good Hope, bearers of letters from Mr.
+C. Dease, conveying the gratifying intelligence that the Loucheux had
+seen the Esquimaux since the autumn, and that the latter had found the
+presents which had been left at their huts, and would be delighted to
+welcome the return of the white people to the Esquimaux lands next
+spring.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenote">Thursday, 22d.</span>Our constant occupations had made the time pass so
+swiftly, that the shortest day came almost unexpectedly upon us. The sun
+rose this morning, (the 22d,) at 10h 24m, thirteen minutes earlier than
+its appearance was expected from calculation, owing to the great
+refraction. Mr. Kendall and I measured its meridional altitude from the
+lake with two instruments, the one bringing its upper limb to the top of
+the land four miles distant, the elevation of which had been ascertained
+to be eight minutes, and the other to its base, the depression of which
+was two minutes. The mean of both these observations, corrected for
+refraction by the tables in the Nautical Almanack, gave a result of
+65&deg; 11' 56" N., which latitude exactly corresponds with the best
+observations made in the preceding autumn. At 8h 30m <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> a halo was
+observed, whose radius measured 28&deg; 40' from the moon; and at an
+equal altitude with the latter body there were two paraselen&aelig;,
+which, as well as the moon, were intersected by a luminous circle,
+having the zenith for its centre, and a diameter of 94&deg; 15'. The
+length of our shortest day did not exceed five hours, but the long
+nights were enlivened by most brilliant moon-light, and we had frequent
+and very fine appearances of the Aurora Borealis. The latter phenomenon
+made some of its grandest displays on the 26th of October, the 2d of
+November,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[Pg 72]</a></span> and the 7th of December. On all these occasions the
+disturbed motions of the magnetic needle were very remarkable, and a
+most careful series of observations convinced the party that they had a
+close connexion with the direction of the beams of light of which the
+aurora was composed. My observations also led me to conclude that the
+deviations of the needle were, in a certain degree, connected with
+changes in the weather; for, previous to a gale or a snow-storm, the
+deviations were always considerable; but during the continuance of the
+gale, the needle almost invariably remained stationary.</p>
+
+<p>Preparations were made for the celebration of Christmas. The house was
+replastered with mud, all the rooms whitewashed and repainted, and
+Matthews displayed his taste by ornamenting a chandelier with cut paper,
+and trinkets. On the evening of the 24th the Indian hunters' women and
+children were invited to share in a game of snap-dragon, to them an
+entire novelty. It would be as difficult to describe the delight which
+the sport afforded them after they recovered their first surprise, as to
+convey the full effect of the scene. When the candles were extinguished,
+the blue flame of the burning spirits shone on the rude features of our
+native companions, in whose countenances were pourtrayed the eager desire
+of possessing the fruit, and the fear of the penalty. Christmas Day
+falling on a Sunday, the party were regaled with the best fare our
+stores could supply; and on the following evening a dance was given, at
+which were present sixty persons, including the Indians, who sat as
+spectators of the merry scene. Seldom, perhaps, in such a confined space
+as our hall, or in the same number of persons, was there greater variety
+of character, or greater confusion of tongues. The party consisted of
+Englishmen, Highlanders, (who mostly conversed with each other in
+Gaelic,) Canadians, Esquimaux, Chipewyans, Dog-Ribs, Hare Indians, Cree
+women and children, mingled together in perfect harmony. The amusements
+were varied by English, Gaelic, and French songs. After these holidays
+were over, the Dog-Ribs at length yielded to the repeated solicitations
+of Mr. Dease, and removed in a body to a distant part of the lake, where
+they now confessed the fishery was more abundant. As the hunters were
+drawing rations from our store, he despatched them in quest of deer,
+furnishing them also with nets. After which there remained at the
+establishment, only one infirm Indian and his wife.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenotel">January, 1st.</span>January 1st, 1826. This morning the men called in the hall
+to offer the congratulations of the season to the officers, and we
+afterwards assembled to read <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[Pg 73]</a></span>divine service. On the evening of
+the 2nd, similar festivities were held to those at Christmas, to welcome
+the new year. The temperature was at -49&deg; on the 1st, which was its
+lowest state during this winter. This severe weather was of short
+continuance, for on the 3rd there was a storm of snow, and the
+thermometer rose to -9&deg;.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenote">4th.</span>Accompanied by Mr. Dease, and Fuller, the carpenter, I walked
+several miles in search of birch-trees fit for the keel and timbers of
+the new boat. We found some that would answer for the latter purpose,
+but none for the keel; we, therefore, substituted pine. The general
+depth of snow in the woody and sheltered parts was two feet. <span class="sidenote">Monday,
+16th.</span>On the 16th, by the return of the two men who had been sent to
+Slave Lake, we had the happiness of receiving a packet of letters, which
+left England in the preceding June. Beside the more interesting private
+communications, our friends had been kind enough to forward piles of
+newspapers, and several periodical publications. The 'Quarterly Review,'
+the 'Edinburgh Philosophical Journal,' and a series of the 'Literary
+Gazette,' and the 'Mechanics' Magazine,' were spread upon the table, and
+afforded us the most agreeable amusement, as well as never-failing
+topics for conversation. Could any of our friends have dropped in upon
+us, in the evening, they would have found us discussing the events of
+the by-gone year, with all the earnestness and interest which we could
+have shown had they been the occurrences of the day, and depended upon
+our decision. This valuable packet had nigh been lost on its way through
+the interior, owing to the treachery of an Indian. The fellow had
+undertaken to guide the Canadian servants of the Hudson Bay Company, who
+had it in charge, from York Factory to Cumberland House; but supposing,
+from its being unusual to forward packets at that season, that it must
+contain something of value, he seized an opportunity, when the two men
+had gone a little way from the river side, to steal the canoe, with its
+contents, and cross the river. There were no means of pursuit, and the
+poor men, destitute of food, without a gun, or even the means of making
+a fire, were obliged to march to the nearest establishment, through a
+very rugged and thickly-wooded country. They reached it after many days
+travelling, and much suffering, and as soon as they arrived, Mr.
+Mackintosh, the chief of the department, immediately sent off different
+parties in search of the culprit. They did not find him, though they got
+possession of the packet, which was torn open, and the letters scattered
+upon the ground. I need hardly mention that I afterwards remunerated the
+Canadians<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[Pg 74]</a></span> for their sufferings and good conduct on this occasion.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenotel">Sunday, 22nd.</span>On the morning of the 22nd we perceived a gray wolf
+crossing the lake, and Augustus and Ooligbuck went in pursuit. The speed
+of the animal, however, so much outstripped theirs, that it cooly halted
+to snap up an unfortunate fox which happened to cross its path, and bore
+it off in triumph. The visits of this animal were repeated for three
+successive days, and it at last became so bold as to steal fish, on two
+occasions, from a sledge which the dogs were accustomed to draw home
+from the nets, without a driver. The dogs were not touched, but this was
+accounted for when the wolf was killed, and found to be a female, as Mr.
+Dease informed us that at this season of the year the female wolves
+never attack the dog.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenotel">February.</span>The month of February was a very anxious period of our winter's
+residence. The produce of the nets and fishing lines had been gradually
+diminishing during January, until the supply did not afford more than
+three or four of the small herrings per man; and none could be furnished
+to the dogs. The stock of dried meat was expended, and serious
+apprehensions were entertained of the party's suffering from want of
+food. The fish too, from being out of season, afforded very little
+nourishment, and frequent indisposition was the consequence with us all.
+Three of the stoutest men with whom this diet particularly disagreed,
+suffered very much from diarrhoea. It became, therefore, necessary to
+draw upon the stores of provision which had been set apart for the
+voyage along the sea-coast, and, on the 6th, we despatched three sledges
+to Fort Norman, for some pemmican, arrow root, and portable soup: they
+were likewise to bring any iron that could be procured from that
+establishment fit for being converted into nails or fastenings for the
+intended boat. This being the last opportunity of the season for
+forwarding letters to the southern department, I wrote to Governor
+Simpson and the council at York Factory, requesting that supplies of
+provisions might be stored for the Expedition, on the route to Canada
+and York Factory, and that the necessary means of conveyance might be
+provided for its return in 1827. All these arrangements requiring to be
+made a year in advance, I included the whole party in the estimate of
+the numbers to be provided for, that there might be no want of
+provision, if the western part of the Expedition should, from any cause,
+be obliged to retrace its steps. By the same conveyance I sent an
+account of our proceedings, with maps and drawings, to be forwarded to
+the Colonial Office.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[Pg 75]</a></span></p> <p><span class="sidenote">Saturday, 4th.</span>On the 4th of this month, when all were heartily
+tired of short allowance, a report was brought of the traces of a moose
+deer having been seen about twelve miles from the fort. Had the days
+been longer, and a crust formed upon the snow, the hunters would have
+found no great difficulty in running down the animal, but our principal
+hope lay in their getting within shot without "raising it,"&mdash;the
+expression used when a deer is scared. Beaulieu being the most expert
+moose-hunter, went out on this occasion, accompanied by two others,
+Landr&eacute; a Chipewyan lad, and a Dog-Rib hunter. When they arrived
+on the deer's track, they found that it had been raised, probably by the
+Indians who first discovered it; but anxious to procure meat for the
+fort, they commenced the pursuit. From their knowledge of the habits of
+the animal, and of the winding course it takes, they were enabled to
+shorten the distance; but after running four successive days without
+coming in sight, Beaulieu had the misfortune to fall over the stump of a
+tree, and sprain his ankle; the other two hunters being previously tired
+out. When this accident happened, they knew they were near the deer, and
+that it would soon give in, because its footsteps were stained with
+blood. Beaulieu, however, on account of his lameness, returned to the
+house, and his companions came with him. During the chase they
+bivouacked on the snow, and subsisted on a few ptarmigan which they
+killed. Landr&eacute; after a night's rest, again set out, and was
+successful after two more day's running; not, however, without having
+nearly lost his life, for the moose, on receiving a shot, made a rush at
+him, striking furiously with his fore feet. He had just time to shelter
+himself behind a tree, upon which the animal spent its efforts, until
+his gun was again ready.</p>
+
+<p>Landr&eacute;'s arrival with the joyful intelligence of his success, was
+hailed as the commencement of a season of plenty. When the moose meat
+was brought in, we had not an ounce of provision in store, and it was,
+therefore, most acceptable; although, from the manner in which it was
+hunted down, it proved exceedingly tough. <span class="sidenote">Friday, 10th.</span>In the evening,
+to increase our satisfaction, an Indian arrived with the information
+that the fish were plentiful at the station to which the Dog-Ribs had
+removed, and likewise that the hunters belonging to the fort had killed
+some rein-deer near their lodges. We immediately equipped four men with
+nets and lines, and sent them back with the Indian, giving them
+directions to report whether more persons could gain subsistence there.
+Their report, a few days afterwards, being favourable, four more <span class='pagenum'><a
+name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[Pg 76]</a></span>men were despatched thither. They
+sent us some tittameg, weighing from six to eight pounds, which were the
+more acceptable, because none of that kind had been taken in our nets
+since the lake had been frozen over. By the time the moose was finished,
+the men came back from Fort Norman, with three bags of pemmican, which
+enabled us to continue the daily issue of rations, though the fare was
+still scanty.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenotel">Saturday, 25th</span>On the 25th, Beaulieu, accompanied by two men, went off in
+one direction, and the Dog-Rib hunters in another, in search of deer.
+Both parties were successful. From the former we received a summons,
+after four days' absence, to send sledges for meat, but not so from the
+Dog-Ribs, for they, to compensate for their long abstinence, consumed
+almost all the meat, and gorged themselves to such a degree, that they
+were unable to move, and became quite ill. From this period we had a
+sufficient supply of provision, because the fisheries improved, and we
+received deer from time to time. The men who had been indisposed gained
+strength, from the increased quantity, and amended quality, of their
+food; and we had also the gratification of seeing the dogs daily fatten,
+amidst the general plenty. The conduct of the men during the season of
+scarcity was beyond all praise; and the following anecdote is worthy of
+record, as displaying the excellent feeling of a British seaman, and as
+speaking the sentiments of the whole party. Talking with Robert Spinks
+as to the difference of his present food, from that to which he had been
+accustomed on board ship, I said I was glad the necessity was over of
+keeping them on short allowance. "Why, sir," said he, "we never minded
+about the short allowance, but were fearful of having to use the
+pemmican intended for next summer; we only care about the next voyage,
+and shall all be glad when the spring comes, that we may set off;
+besides, at the worst time, we could always spare a fish for each of our
+dogs." During the period of short allowance, the three dogs under the
+charge of this man were kept in better condition than any of the others.</p>
+
+<p>We now called the men home from the nearest fishery, and set their nets
+near the Bear Lake River, but the men at the distant station with the
+Indians were kept there, and occasionally supplied the fort with fine
+tittameg and trout. The otters did considerable mischief to our nets at
+this time; six of these animals were seen in one day.</p>
+
+<p>Many parheli&aelig; were observed this month. On the 14th, at forty-five
+minutes after nine <span class="smcap">a.m.</span>, the arched form of the clouds, and the
+appearance of a collection of rays projected from the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[Pg 77]</a></span>sun's disk
+in the shape of a fan, strongly resembled the coruscations of the
+aurora. The atmosphere was misty; temperature in the shade +8&deg; 5';
+and when the thermometer with a blackened bulb was exposed to the sun's
+rays, it rose to +43&deg;. The magnetic needle, at nine <span class="smcap">a.m.</span>, was
+perceived to have made a greater deviation to the westward than usual at
+that hour, and I imagine that the cause of this increase probably arose
+from the atmosphere being then in a state of electricity, similar to
+that in which it is when the aurora appears in hazy weather; on which
+occasions we have observed that its coruscations have the strongest
+effect in causing aberrations of the needle. A violent gale from the
+north-west commenced on the 26th, and lasted, without intermission, for
+thirty-six hours.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenote">March, 1st.</span>The early part of this month was marked by a succession of
+gales from the N.W., with a few intervals of moderate weather, in which
+the wind came from the east, and was attended by a clearer atmosphere
+than usually accompanies easterly winds in the colder months. We
+observed, with pleasure, on the 7th, that the sun had sufficient power
+to soften the snow in exposed places, and to form icicles from the roofs
+which had a southern aspect, but the return of strong winds from the
+W.N.W. brought back severe weather. <span class="sidenote"> Saturday, 11th.</span>On the 11th there
+was a violent gust of wind, which, in its passage over the lake,
+gathered up the snow in a column, similar to that of a waterspout. Dr.
+Richardson made an excursion for the purpose of examining the rocks to
+the north of the establishment. He returned after two days, the snow
+being too deep for him to obtain specimens. The description he gave of a
+view from an eminence nine miles behind the fort, induced Lieutenant
+Back and me to visit the spot, and we were amply repaid for the walk.
+The view embraced the mountains on the borders of the Mackenzie to the
+west, a considerable portion of Bear Lake River, with the mountains near
+its rapids, Clark's Hill to the south, and the range of elevated land
+stretching to the east till they were lost in the distance. To the N.E.
+there appeared several small lakes, and the view was terminated by a
+portion of Bear Lake.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenote">Tuesday, 21st.</span>The Chipewyan hunters who had been absent since Christmas,
+returned to us with their families, and brought with them a Dog-Rib
+girl, about twelve years old, who had been deserted by her tribe. When
+they found her, she was in the last stage of weakness, from famine,
+sitting by the expiring embers of a fire, and but for their timely
+appearance, death must soon have ended her sufferings. They <span class='pagenum'><a
+name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[Pg 78]</a></span>fed and clothed her, and waited until
+she gained strength to accompany them. The wretches who had abandoned
+the poor creature, were on their way to a fishing station, which they
+knew to be very productive, and not above a day's march distant. She was
+unable to keep the pace at which they chose to proceed, and having no
+near relation but an aged aunt, who could not assist her, they left her
+at an encampment without any food. The hunters met this party of Indians
+about a month afterwards, when they were living in abundance. The girl,
+by that time, had perfectly recovered her strength, and they desired
+that she should be restored to them, but the hunters firmly resisted
+their importunity, and one of them adopted her as his own child. It is
+singular that she was the only female of the tribe that could be called
+good-looking. Her Indian name was Aton-larree, which the interpreter
+translated, Burnt-weed. Lieutenant Back made a sketch of her, in the
+dress which the hunter's wife gave to her on their first meeting. When
+the Indians came to the fort, I took the first opportunity of their
+being assembled in the hall, to send for the hunters and their wives,
+and to reward them by a substantial present of clothing and ammunition.
+I also gave to them some neat steel instruments, consisting of gimblets,
+and other useful articles, which they were desired to preserve, and show
+to other Indians, as a testimony of our approbation of their humanity. A
+present was also bestowed upon the girl, and then the Dog-Ribs were
+addressed as to their unfeeling conduct towards her. They listened
+quietly, and merely stated her weakness as the cause. There is little
+doubt but that the transactions of this day were canvassed afterwards,
+and it is to be hoped that the knowledge of our sentiments gaining
+circulation, may induce a discontinuance of their inhuman practices.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenotel">Wednesday, 22nd.</span>By the men who had conveyed our last packet to Fort
+Simpson, we received intelligence that some Chipewyans had brought
+information to the Athabasca and Slave Lakes, of their having seen many
+indications of a party of white people on the sea coast eastward of the
+Coppermine River. The report stated, that they had found, in the
+preceding autumn, on the borders of a river near the sea-coast, a
+sawpit, some saws, and axes, and a store of deer's meat. There was snow
+on the ground, and the footsteps of the party appeared recent. We
+concluded from these statements, that Captain Parry had laid up his
+ships in the vicinity of Bathurst's Inlet, and sent hunting-parties up
+the river to augment his stock of provision. I therefore despatched two
+men with letters to Mr. M'Vicar, at Slave Lake, containing<span class='pagenum'><a
+name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[Pg 79]</a></span> a series of questions, that the
+matter might be thoroughly investigated, and requested him to transmit
+the answers to the Admiralty. I likewise begged of him immediately to
+procure a party of Indians to go to the spot, and convey a letter from
+me to Captain Parry, in order that they might either be employed as
+hunters for the ships, or carry their letters to the nearest
+establishment for conveyance to England. Had the information reached us
+sooner, so that a party could have gone from Bear Lake to the point at
+which the ships were, and returned before the men were wanted, I should
+have sent to ascertain the fact. The idea of the ships being on the
+northern coast, the prospect of their success, and the expectation of
+the eastern detatchment meeting them in the summer, afforded enlivening
+topics of conversation for several days, and on the day the intelligence
+came, we celebrated its arrival with a bowl of punch. The health of
+Captain Parry, and his party, as well as that of Captain Beechey, was
+drank with enthusiasm.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenote">Thursday, 23rd.</span>We obtained observations for the time, from which it
+appeared that the chronometer, No. 1733, generously lent to the
+Expedition by my friend the late Mr. Moore, had only varied its rate two
+hundredths of a second, since the 3rd of November. I had worn it next my
+skin, suspended round my neck, the whole time; and, consequently, it was
+not exposed to much variation of temperature.</p>
+
+<p>After the middle of this month the N.W. winds gave place to a succession
+of easterly breezes; whenever these prevailed, we observed the
+terrestrial refraction was much increased; double refraction of the land
+was not unfrequent, and twice the mist arising from the open water,
+appeared like a wall of ice. When the moon shone, halos, and
+occasionally paraselen&aelig;, were visible; and towards the close of
+the month the coruscations of the aurora were often very brilliant.</p>
+
+<p>During this month I noticed that on several occasions the magnetic
+needle oscillated when I approached it in a dress of waterproof cloth,
+although it remained stationary when others of the party examined it in
+their ordinary garments. The waterproof dress probably acted by
+exciting electricity in the body, although this opinion is rather
+contradicted by the fact of a fur cap, which had been rubbed by the hand
+until it affected the gold leaf electrometer, producing no change in the
+needle, and my approach to the electrometer not causing the gold-leaf to
+expand.</p>
+
+<p>Having failed in an attempt to make charcoal for the blacksmith's use at
+this place, we despatched William Duncan, and <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[Pg 80]</a></span>the blacksmith, to
+make some at Fort Norman, where birch <span class="sidenotel">April, 6th.</span>trees are plentiful;
+and on the 6th of April we were glad to see them return with the first
+load. The carpenters had already prepared the timbers and the keel for
+the new boat, and we were waiting for the coals to get the iron-work
+forward.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenotel">Monday, 10th.</span>On the 10th Dr. Richardson and Mr. Kendall left the fort on
+snow-shoes, accompanied by an Indian guide, and a man driving a
+dog-sledge with provisions, for the purpose of completing the survey of
+Great Bear Lake, which Dr. Richardson had commenced the preceding
+autumn. The day was remarkably warm; the blackened thermometer, exposed
+to the sun, rose to +90; and we hailed with delight a complete thaw.
+Cheered by the prospect, a spot was cleared of snow, the keel of the
+boat laid down, and that there might be no delay, all the sledges we
+could spare were despatched to fetch the remainder of the charcoal from
+Fort Norman. <span class="sidenotel">Tuesday, 11th.</span>On the following day water was dripping from
+the roofs, and the flies were active within the rooms. The continuance
+of mild weather for six days caused a rapid decay of the snow, but no
+spots of land became visible. The men returned with the charcoal, and
+from them we learned that the season was more backward here than in the
+vicinity of Fort Norman. In the evening of the 17th, a telescope was put
+up in the meridian for finding the rates of the chronometers by the
+transit of Arcturus. <span class="sidenotel">Wednesday, 19th.</span>On the 19th, thirty Hare-Indians
+arrived with sledges, bringing their winter's collection of furs for the
+Hudson Bay Company, and a large supply of dried meat for us, which, with
+the stock already in store, put us quite at ease respecting food until
+the season for our departure. The party consisted mostly of young lads,
+who, very good-naturedly, sang and danced for our amusement all the
+evening. They also gave us specimens of the dances in use among the
+Loucheux, which were more graceful than their own. The tune they sung to
+the Medicine-dance of the Loucheux, struck me as being soft and pretty.
+The ludicrous attitudes and grotesque figures of the dancers, as they
+wheeled in a circle, shaking the knives and feathers which they had
+between their fingers were happily sketched by Lieutenant Back.</p>
+
+<p>As the fish had withdrawn from the open water at the commencement of the
+fine weather, the nets were brought nearer to the house; but we did not
+obtain more than thirty fish daily. This diminution, however, gave us no
+concern, as we had <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[Pg 81]</a></span>plenty of meat. Shortly afterwards the trout
+began again to take bait, and we caught several of large size. Easterly
+winds prevailed this month, and they blew uninterruptedly from the 21st
+to the last day. A storm, on the 28th and 29th, delayed the carpenters
+working at the boat: the patches of ground which had for the last few
+days been visible, were again covered with snow, and the general aspect
+was bleak and wintry.</p>
+
+<p>Dr. Richardson and Mr. Kendall returned on the 1st of May, and we were
+furnished with the following particulars of their journey. Their course,
+on leaving us, was first directed to the fishery in Mac Vicar's Bay,
+which they reached on the fourth day, and from whence, taking with them
+another sledge-load of provisions and an additional attendant, they
+continued their journey to the bottom of Mac Tavish Bay, the most
+easterly part of the Lake. The reduction in their stock of provisions
+now caused them to commence their return, and they reached the fort
+after an absence of three weeks, during which, in very unfavourable
+weather, they travelled about three hundred and eighty miles. Dr.
+Richardson had sailed four hundred and eighty miles through the lake in
+the autumn, and in the two excursions, five hundred miles of its shores
+were delineated, and the positions of many points established by
+astronomical observations. About twenty miles of the north shore of Mac
+Tavish Bay are the only parts of the Bear Lake remaining unsurveyed.
+<span class="sidenote">May, 1st.</span>The following brief description of Bear Lake is extracted from
+Dr. Richardson's Journal:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p>"Great Bear Lake is formed by the union of five arms or bays, which were
+named after Messrs. Keith, Smith, Dease, Mac Tavish, and Mac Vicar, of
+the Hudson's Bay Company. The principal feeding-stream, named Dease
+River, rises in the Copper Mountains, and falls into the upper end of
+Dease Bay, which is the most northern part of the lake, and Bear Lake
+River, which conveys the waters of the lake to the Mackenzie, issues
+from Keith Bay, the most southerly arm. Mac Tavish Bay is the most
+easterly portion of the lake, and Smith Bay, which lies opposite to it,
+runs to the westward. Mac Vicar Bay has a southerly direction nearly
+parallel to Keith Bay. The length of the lake, from Dease River to Bear
+Lake River, is about one hundred and seventy-five miles; and its
+breadth, from the bottom of Smith Bay to the bottom of Mac Tavish Bay,
+is one hundred and fifty miles. A range of granite hills skirts the
+bottom of Mac Tavish Bay. The Great Bear Mountain, at whose base some
+bituminous shale cliffs are exposed, is about nine hundred feet high,
+and separates Mac Vicar and Keith Bays; a similar mountain lies <span class='pagenum'><a
+name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[Pg 82]</a></span>betwixt Keith and Smith Bays. In
+Dease Bay, limestone and sandstone are the prevailing rocks. The waters
+of the lake are very clear, and of unknown depth; forty-fathoms of line
+were let down near the shore, in Mac Tavish Bay, without reaching the
+bottom. There is a considerable quantity of good wood, principally white
+spruce, in the vicinity of the lake; but there is reason to believe
+that, before many years elapse, it will become scarce, for it is very
+slow of growth, and the natives every year set fire to it in various
+quarters, and thus destroy it for many miles. The finest timber was
+observed on the west side of Great Bear Lake Mountain. There are good
+fisheries in Dease Bay, and in various other quarters of the lake; but
+the fish taken in Mac Vicar Bay are remarkably fine and abundant at all
+seasons of the year. The principal advantage of the site chosen for Fort
+Franklin, is its vicinity to the Bear Lake River, and the great quantity
+of fish that can be procured at certain seasons, although they are small
+and of inferior quality."</p>
+
+<p>On the 5th of this month, the men being called in from the fishery in
+Mac Vicar Bay, the whole party was once more assembled at the house,
+anxiously looking forward to the arrival of spring. We hailed the
+appearance of swans, on the following day, as a sure sign of its
+approach. A goose was seen on the 7th, two ducks on the 8th, and on the
+9th several gulls were observed in the open water near the Bear Lake
+River. The snow, at this time, was rapidly diminishing from the surface
+of the lake, and there were many spots of ground visible. We, therefore,
+commenced the preparations for the summer's voyage. The seamen were
+employed in repairing the coverings and sails of the boats, as well as
+in refitting their rigging, and occupation was allotted to every person
+in the establishment. These operations requiring the constant
+superintendence of the officers, the observations of the magnetic-needle
+were discontinued. After the middle of the month, we were visited by
+occasional showers of rain, which removed the snow, and produced a
+perceptible decay of the ice.</p>
+
+<p>On the 23d, the ice broke away from the shore of the small lake, and
+also of Bear Lake, in front of the house. Swans and geese were now daily
+passing to the northward; many shots were fired at them, both by the
+Indians and our own party, but only a few were killed. The geese were
+principally of the kind known to naturalists by the name of Canada
+geese, and denominated bustards by the voyagers. Numbers of white geese
+also passed; we saw only two flocks of laughing-geese. The first swallow
+came on the 16th, and, on the following day, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[Pg 83]</a></span>many others arrived.
+A variety of ducks, gulls, and many of the small aquatic birds, now
+frequented the marshy borders of the little lake, which afforded
+constant amusement to the sportsmen, and full occupation to Dr.
+Richardson in preparing the skins for specimens.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenote">Wednesday, 24th.</span>On the 24th, the musquitoes appeared, feeble at first,
+but, after a few days, they became vigorous and tormenting. The first
+flower, a tussilago, was gathered on the 27th. Before the close of the
+month, several others were in bloom, of which the most abundant was the
+white anemone (<i>anemone tenella</i>.) The leaf-buds had not yet burst,
+though just ready to open.</p>
+
+<p>The carpenters had now finished the new boat, which received the name of
+the Reliance. It was constructed of fir, with birch timbers, after the
+model of our largest boat, the Lion, but with a more full bow, and a
+finer run abaft. Its length was about twenty-six feet, and breadth five
+feet eight inches. It was fastened in the same manner as the other
+boats, but with iron instead of copper, and to procure sufficient nails
+we were obliged to cut up all the spare axes, trenches<a
+name="FNanchor_2_2" id="FNanchor_2_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_2_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a>, and ice-chisels. Being
+without tar, we substituted strips of waterproof canvas, soaked in some
+caoutchouc varnish, which we had brought out, to lay between the seams
+of the planks; and for paint, we made use of resin, procured from the
+pine-trees, boiled and mixed with grease. The other boats were
+afterwards put in complete repair. The Lion required the most, in
+consequence of the accident in Bear Lake River. The defects in the other
+two principally arose from their having been repaired at Cumberland
+House with the elm that grows in its vicinity, and is very spongy. We
+now substituted white spruce fir, which, when grown in these high
+latitudes, is an excellent wood for boat-building. We were surprised to
+find, that, notwithstanding the many heavy blows these boats had
+received in their passage to this place, there was not a timber that
+required to be changed.</p>
+
+<p>In our bustle, we would gladly have dispensed with the presence of the
+Dog-Ribs, who now visited us in great numbers, without bringing any
+supplies. They continued hanging about the fort, and their daily
+drumming and singing over the sick, the squalling of the children, and
+bawling of the men and women, proved no small annoyance. We were
+pleased, however, at perceiving that the ammunition we had given to them
+in return for meat, had enabled them to provide themselves with <span class='pagenum'><a
+name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[Pg 84]</a></span>leathern tents. Their only shelter
+from the wind, snow, or rain, before this season, had been a rude
+barricade of pine branches. Fortunately, for our comfort, they were
+obliged to remove before the expiration of the month to a distant
+fishery to procure provision.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenotel">June, 1st.</span>The preparations for the voyage along the coast being now in a
+state of forwardness, my attention was directed to the providing for the
+return of Dr. Richardson's party to this establishment in the following
+autumn, and to the securing means of support for all the members of the
+Expedition at this place, in the event of the western party being
+likewise compelled to return to it. Respecting the first point, it was
+arranged that Beaulieu the interpreter, and four Canadians, should quit
+Fort Franklin on the 6th of August, and proceed direct to Dease River
+with a bateau, and wait there until the 20th of September, when, if Dr.
+Richardson did not appear, they were to come back to the fort in canoes,
+and to leave the boat, with provision and other necessaries, for the use
+of the eastern detachment. All these points were explained to Beaulieu,
+and he not only understood every part of the arrangement, but seemed
+very desirous to perform the important duty entrusted to him. I next
+drew up written instructions for the guidance of Mr. Dease, during the
+absence of the Expedition, directing his attention first to the
+equipment and despatch of Beaulieu on the 6th of August, and then to the
+keeping the establishment well stored with provision. He was aware of
+the probability that the western party would meet his Majesty's ship
+Blossom, and go to Canton in her. But as unforeseen circumstances might
+compel us to winter on the coast, I considered it necessary to warn him
+against inferring, from our not returning in the following autumn, that
+we had reached the Blossom. He was, therefore, directed to keep Fort
+Franklin complete, as to provision, until the spring of 1828. Dr.
+Richardson was likewise instructed, before he left the fort in 1827, on
+his return to England, to see that Mr. Dease fully understood my motives
+for giving these orders, and that he was provided with the means of
+purchasing the necessary provision from the Indians.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenotel">Wednesday, 7th.</span>The long reign of the east wind was at length terminated
+by a fresh N.W. breeze, and the ice yet remaining on the small lake soon
+disappeared, under the softening effects of this wind. This lake had
+been frozen eight months, wanting three days. A narrow channel being
+opened along the western border of Bear Lake, on the 14th Dr. Richardson
+took advantage of it, and went in a small <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[Pg 85]</a></span>canoe with two men to
+examine the mountains on the borders of Bear Lake River, and to collect
+specimens of the plants that were now in flower, intending to rejoin the
+party at Fort Norman. On the same day, in 1821, the former Expedition
+left Fort Enterprize for the sea.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenote">Thursday, 15th.</span>The equipments of the boats being now complete, they were
+launched on the small lake, and tried under oars and sails. In the
+afternoon the men were appointed to their respective stations, and
+furnished with the sky-blue waterproof uniforms, and feathers, as well
+as with the warm clothing which had been provided for the voyage. I
+acquainted them fully with the object of the Expedition, and pointed out
+their various duties. They received these communications with
+satisfaction, were delighted with the prospect of the voyage, and
+expressed their readiness to commence it immediately. Fourteen men,
+including Augustus, were appointed to accompany myself and Lieutenant
+Back, in the Lion and Reliance, the two larger boats; and ten, including
+Ooligbuck, to go with Dr. Richardson and Mr. Kendall, in the Dolphin and
+Union. In order to make up the complement of fourteen for the western
+party, I proposed to receive two volunteers from the Canadian voyagers;
+and to the credit of Canadian enterprise, every man came forward. I
+chose Fran&ccedil;ois Felix and Alexis Vivier, because they were the
+first who offered their services, and this too without any stipulation
+as to increase of wages.</p>
+
+<p>Spare blankets, and every thing that could be useful for the voyage, or
+as presents to the Esquimaux, which our stores could furnish, were
+divided between the eastern and western parties, and put up into bales
+of a size convenient for stowage. This interesting day was closed by the
+consumption of a small quantity of rum, reserved for the occasion,
+followed by a merry dance, in which all joined with great glee, in their
+working dresses. On the following Sunday the officers and men assembled
+at Divine service, dressed in their new uniforms; and in addition to the
+ordinary service of the day, the special protection of Providence was
+implored on the enterprise we were about to commence. The guns were
+cleaned the next day, and stowed in the arm chests, which had been made
+to fit the boats. Tuesday and Wednesday were set apart for the officers
+and men to pack their own things. A strong western breeze occurred on
+the 21st, which removed the ice from the front of the house and opened a
+passage to the Bear Lake River. The men were sent with the boats and
+stores to the river in the evening, and were heartily cheered on
+quitting the beach. <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[Pg 86]</a></span>The officers remained to pack up the charts,
+drawings, and other documents, which were to be left at the fort; and,
+in the event of none of the officers returning, Mr. Dease was directed
+to forward them to England. We quitted the house at half past ten, on
+Thursday morning, leaving Cot&eacute;, the fisherman, in charge, until
+Mr. Dease should return from Fort Norman. This worthy old man, sharing
+the enthusiasm that animated the whole party, would not allow us to
+depart without giving his hearty, though solitary cheer, which we
+returned in full chorus.</p>
+
+<p>The position of Fort Franklin was determined to be in latitude 65&deg;
+11' 56" N., longitude 123&deg; 12' 44" W.; variation of the compass
+39&deg; 9' E.; dip of the needle 82&deg; 58' 15".</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p> <div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_2_2" id="Footnote_2_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_2_2"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> Used by the Indians to break up the beaver lodges.</p></div></div>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" /> <p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[Pg 87]</a></span></p> <h2><a name="CHAPTER_III" id="CHAPTER_III"></a>CHAPTER III.</h2>
+
+<p><small>Voyage to the Sea&mdash;Part from the Eastern Detachment at Point
+Separation&mdash;Reach the Mouth of the Mackenzie&mdash;Interview and
+Contest with the Esquimaux&mdash;Detained by Ice&mdash;Meet friendly
+Esquimaux&mdash;Point Sabine.</small></p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenote">Thursday, 22nd.</span><span class="smcap">On</span> our arrival at the Bear Lake River, we were mortified
+to find the ice drifting down in large masses, with such rapidity as to
+render embarkation unsafe. The same cause detained us the whole of the
+following day; and as we had brought no more provision from the house
+than sufficient for an uninterrupted passage to Fort Norman, we sent for
+a supply of fish. This was a very sultry day, the thermometer in the
+shade being 71&deg; at noon, and 74&deg; at three <span class="smcap">p.m.</span></p>
+
+<p>The descent of the ice having ceased at eight in the morning of the
+24th, we embarked. The heavy stores were put into a bateau, manned by
+Canadians, who were experienced in the passage through rapids, and the
+rest of the boats were ordered to follow in its wake, keeping at such a
+distance from each other as to allow of any evolution that might be
+necessary to avoid the stones. The boats struck several times, but
+received no injury. At the foot of the rapid we met a canoe, manned by
+four of our Canadian voyagers, whom Dr. Richardson had sent with some
+letters that had arrived at Fort Norman from the Athabasca Lake; and as
+the services of the men were wanted, they were embarked in the boats,
+and the canoe was left. Shortly afterwards we overtook Beaulieu, who had
+just killed a young moose deer, which afforded the party two substantial
+meals. At this spot, and generally along the river, we found abundance
+of wild onions.</p>
+
+<p>We entered the Mackenzie River at eight in the evening, and the current
+being too strong for us to advance against the stream with oars, we had
+recourse to the tracking line, and travelled all night. It was
+fatiguing, owing to large portions of the banks having been overthrown
+by the disruption of the ice, and from the ground being so soft that the
+men dragging the rope sank up to the knees at every step; but these
+impediments were less regarded than the ceaseless torment of the
+musquitoes. We halted to sup at the spot where Sir A. Mackenzie saw the
+flame rising from the bank in 1789. The pre<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[Pg 88]</a></span>cipice was still on
+fire, the smoke issuing through several apertures. Specimens of the coal
+were procured.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenotel">Sunday, 25th.</span>We reached Fort Norman at noon on the 25th. On the
+following morning the provision and stores which had been left at this
+place were examined, and found to be in excellent order, except the
+powder in one of the magazines, which had become caked from damp. I had
+ordered a supply of iron-work, knives, and beads, for the sea voyage
+from Fort Simpson; they had arrived some days before us, and with our
+stock thus augmented, we were well furnished with presents for the
+natives. The packages being finished on the 27th, the boats received
+their respective ladings, and we were rejoiced to find that each stowed
+her cargo well, and with her crew embarked floated as buoyantly as our
+most sanguine wishes had anticipated. The heavy stores, however, were
+afterwards removed into a bateau that was to be taken to the mouth of
+the river, to prevent the smaller boats from receiving injury in passing
+over the shoals.</p>
+
+<p>We waited one day to make some pounded meat we had brought into
+pemmican. In the mean time the seamen enlarged the foresail of the
+Reliance.</p>
+
+<p>The letters which I received from the Athabasca department informed me
+that the things I had required from the Company in February last, would
+be duly forwarded; they likewise contained a very different version of
+the story which had led us to suppose that Captain Parry was passing the
+winter on the northern coast. We now learned that the Indians had only
+seen some pieces of wood recently cut, and a deer that had been killed
+by an arrow; these things we concluded were done by the Esquimaux. Three
+men from Slave Lake, whom I had sent for to supply the place of our
+Chipewyan hunters, who were very inactive last winter, joined us at this
+place. They were to accompany Mr. Dease and the Canadians to Fort
+Franklin; and that they, as well as the Indians, might have every
+encouragement to exert themselves in procuring provisions during the
+summer, I directed a supply of the goods they were likely to require,
+to be sent from Fort Simpson, as soon as possible. The longitude of Fort
+Norman was observed to be 124&deg; 44' 47" W., its latitude 64&deg; 40'
+38" N.; variation 39&deg; 57' 52" E.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenotel">Wednesday, 28th.</span>Early this morning the boats were laden and decorated
+with their ensigns and pendants, and after breakfast we quitted the
+fort, amidst the hearty cheers of our friends Mr. Dease, Mr. Brisbois,
+and the Canadians, and I am sure carried their best wishes for our
+success. <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[Pg 89]</a></span>We halted at noon to obtain the latitude, which placed
+the entrance of Bear Lake River in 64&deg; 55' 37" N.; and Dr.
+Richardson took advantage of this delay to visit the mountain at that
+point, but his stay was short, in consequence of a favourable breeze
+springing up. We perceived that the four boats sailed at nearly an equal
+rate in light breezes, but that in strong winds the two larger ones had
+the advantage. When we landed to sup the musquitoes beset us so
+furiously that we hastily despatched the meal and re-embarked, to drive
+under easy sail before the current. They continued, however, to pursue
+us, and deprived us of all rest. On our arrival, next morning, at the
+place of the first rapids, there was scarcely any appearance of broken
+water, and the sand-bank on which Augustus had been so perilously
+situated in the preceding autumn, was entirely covered. This was, of
+course, to be ascribed to the spring floods; the increase of water to
+produce such a change, must have exceeded six feet. In the afternoon we
+were overtaken by a violent thunder-storm, with heavy rain, which made
+us apprehensive for the pemmican, that spoils on being wet. It
+unfortunately <span class="sidenote"> Friday, 30th.</span>happened that a convenient place for
+spreading out the bags that were injured could not be found, until we
+reached the Hare-Skin River, below the Rampart Defile, which was at nine
+o'clock. They were spread out the next morning, with the other
+perishable parts of the cargo, and we remained until they were dry. We
+embarked at ten, and, aided by a favourable breeze, made good progress
+until six <span class="smcap">p.m.</span>, when the threatening appearance of the clouds induced us
+to put on shore, and we had but just covered the baggage before heavy
+rain fell, that continued throughout the night. Four Hare Indians came
+to the encampment, to whom dried meat and ammunition were given, as they
+were in want of food from being unable to set their nets in the present
+high state of the water. These were the only natives seen since our
+departure from Fort Norman; they informed us, that, in consequence of
+not being able to procure a sufficiency of fish in the Mackenzie at this
+season, their companions had withdrawn to gain their subsistence from
+the small lakes in the interior.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenote">July, 1st.</span>We embarked at half past one on the morning of the 1st of
+July. The sultry weather of the preceding day made us now feel more
+keenly the chill of a strong western breeze, and the mist which it
+brought on, about four hours after our departure. This wind being
+contrary to the current, soon raised such high waves that the boats took
+in a great deal of water; and as we made but little progress, and <span class='pagenum'><a
+name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[Pg 90]</a></span>were very cold, we landed to kindle a
+fire, and prepare breakfast; after which we continued the voyage to Fort
+Good Hope, without any of the interruptions from sand-banks that we had
+experienced in the autumn.</p>
+
+<p>On our arrival we were saluted with a discharge of musketry by a large
+party of Loucheux, who had been some time waiting at the fort, with
+their wives and families, for the purpose of seeing us. After a short
+conference with Mr. Bell, the master of the post, we were informed that
+these Indians had lately met a numerous party of Esquimaux at the Red
+River, by appointment, to purchase their furs; and that in consequence
+of a misunderstanding respecting some bargain, a quarrel had ensued
+between them, which fortunately terminated without bloodshed. We could
+not, however, gain any satisfactory account of the movements of the
+Esquimaux. The only answers to our repeated questions on these points
+were, that the Esquimaux came in sixty canoes to Red River, and that
+they supposed them to have gone down the eastern channel, for the
+purpose of fishing near its mouth. The chief, however, informed us that
+he had mentioned our coming to their lands this spring, and that they
+had received the intelligence without comment; but from his not having
+alluded to this communication until the question was pressed upon him,
+and from the manner of his answering our inquiries, I thought it
+doubtful whether such a communication had really been made.</p>
+
+<p>We had been led to expect much information from the Loucheux respecting
+the channels of the river, and the coast on the east and west side near
+its mouth, but we were greatly disappointed. They were ignorant of the
+channel we ought to follow in order to arrive at the western mouth of
+the river; and the only intelligence they gave us respecting the coast
+on that side was, that the Esquimaux represented it to be almost
+constantly beset by ice. They said also that they were unacquainted with
+the tribes who reside to the westward. Several of the party had been
+down the eastern channel, of which they made a rude sketch; and their
+account of the coast on that side was, that, as far as they were
+acquainted with it, it was free from ice during the summer.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. C. Dease, the former master of Fort Good Hope, had retained two of
+the Loucheux to accompany the Expedition until we should meet the
+Esquimaux: they spoke a few words of the language, which they had
+learned during an occasional residence with the tribe that resides on
+the eastern border of the river. But the knowledge of the recent
+transactions at Red River had convinced us that their presence would be
+more <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[Pg 91]</a></span>likely to irritate than pacify the Esquimaux. We also
+discovered that their sole motive for accompanying us was the desire of
+trading with that people; and further, that they expected we should take
+their families and baggage in the boats. Their services were therefore
+declined; and a compensation was offered to them for their loss of time
+in waiting for us; but having fixed their minds on the gain to be
+derived from us and from the trade with the Esquimaux, they expressed
+great disappointment, and were very intemperate in their language. As I
+was anxious, for the sake of the trade at the post, to leave them no
+room to complain either of us, or of Mr. Dease who had acted for us, I
+spent several hours in debate with them to very little purpose, and at
+last discovered that the whole scene was got up for the purpose of
+obtaining a few more goods. My compliance with their wish rendered them
+quite contented. I afterwards added a present to the principal chief of
+the party, who still expressed a wish to accompany us, but he frankly
+said that if he went, all his young men must go also. They came in the
+evening in great good humour to exhibit their dances in front of our
+tent, a compliment we could well have dispensed with, as we were busy.</p>
+
+<p>Having ascertained that the Esquimaux were likely to be seen in greater
+numbers than had been at first imagined, I increased the stock of
+presents from the store at this place, and exchanged two of our guns,
+which were defective, that the party might have entire confidence in
+their arms. And to provide against the casualty of either or both
+branches of the Expedition having to return this way, I requested Mr.
+Bell to store up as much meat as he could during the summer. We learned
+from this gentleman that the supply of meat at this post was very
+precarious, and that had we not left the five bags of pemmican in the
+autumn, the residents would have been reduced to great distress for food
+during the winter. These bags were now replaced. The arrangements being
+concluded, we spent the greater part, of the night in writing to
+England. I addressed to the Colonial Secretary an account of our
+proceedings up to this time, and I felt happy to be able to state that
+we were equipped with every requisite for the Expedition.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenote">Sunday, 2nd.</span>We quitted Fort Good Hope at five on the 2nd. In the passage
+down the river we were visited by several Loucheux, who, the instant we
+appeared, launched their canoes, and came off to welcome us. We landed,
+at their request, to purchase fish; yet, after the bargain had been
+completed, an old woman stepped forward, and would only <span class='pagenum'><a
+name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[Pg 92]</a></span>allow of our receiving two fish: she
+maintained her point, and carried off the rest in spite of all
+remonstrance. The natives were all clothed in new leathern dresses, and
+looked much neater, and in better health, than last autumn. Being
+anxious to reach the Red River, we continued rowing against the wind
+until after midnight. On reaching that place, the ground proved too wet
+for us to encamp; we, therefore, proceeded a short distance lower down,
+and put up under some sandstone cliffs, where there was but just room
+for the tents. As we were now on the borders of the Esquimaux territory,
+we devoted the following morning to cleaning the arms; and a gun,
+dagger, and ammunition, were issued to each person. We had no reason,
+indeed, to apprehend hostility from the Esquimaux, after the messages
+they had sent to Fort Franklin, but vigilance and precaution are never
+to be omitted in intercourse with strange tribes.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenotel">Monday, 3rd.</span>Embarking at two in the afternoon of the 3rd, we soon
+entered the expansion of the river whence the different channels branch
+off, and steering along the western shore, we came to the head of a
+branch that flowed towards the Rocky Mountain range. Being anxious not
+to take the eastern detachment out of their course, I immediately
+encamped to make the necessary arrangements for the separation of the
+parties. The warm clothing, shoes, and articles for presents, had been
+previously put up in separate packages, but the provisions remained to
+be divided, which was done in due proportion. Twenty-six bags of
+pemmican, and two of grease, were set apart for the Dolphin and Union,
+with a supply of arrow-root, macaroni, flour, and portable soup, making
+in all eighty days' provision, with an allowance for waste. The Lion and
+Reliance received thirty-two bags of pemmican, and two of grease, with
+sufficient arrow-root, &amp;c., to make their supply proportionate to
+that of the eastern party. Provided no accident occurred, neither party
+could be in absolute want for the whole summer, because at two-thirds
+allowance the pemmican could be made to last one hundred days; and we
+had reason to expect to meet with deer occasionally.</p>
+
+<p>In the evening I delivered my instructions to Dr. Richardson; they were
+in substance as follows:&mdash;He was to take under his charge Mr. E.N.
+Kendall, and ten men, and proceed in the Dolphin and Union to survey
+the coast between the Mackenzie and Copper-Mine Rivers. On reaching the
+latter river, he was to travel by land to the north-east arm of Great
+Bear Lake, where Beaulieu was under orders to meet him <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[Pg 93]</a></span>with a
+boat for the conveyance of his party to Fort Franklin. But if he should
+be so much delayed on the coast as to have no prospect of reaching the
+Copper-Mine River by the close of August, or the Bear Lake Portage by
+the 20th of September, he was not to expose himself or his party to risk
+by persevering beyond the 15th or 20th of August, but was to return to
+Fort Franklin by way of the Mackenzie, or by any other route he might
+discover. The only cause of regret I had respecting the equipment of the
+eastern party was my being unable to provide Dr. Richardson with a
+chronometer, the main-springs of two out of the three chronometers
+furnished to us having been broken. I borrowed, however, from Mr. Dease,
+a watch, made by Barraud, to enable Mr. Kendall to obtain the longitude
+by lunar distances. They were likewise provided with that excellent
+instrument Massey's Log; and knowing Mr. Kendall's intimate acquaintance
+with marine surveying, I had no doubt of his being able to make a
+correct survey of the coast. The spot where the above arrangements were
+made, bears the name of Point Separation, and lies in latitude 67&deg;
+38' N., longitude 133&deg; 53' W.</p>
+
+<p>As the parties entertained for each other sentiments of true friendship
+and regard, it will easily be imagined that the evening preceding our
+separation was spent in the most cordial and cheerful manner. We felt
+that we were only separating to be employed on services of equal
+interest; and we looked forward with delight to our next meeting, when,
+after a successful termination, we might recount the incidents of our
+respective voyages. The best supper our means afforded was provided, and
+a bowl of punch crowned the parting feast.</p>
+
+<p>We were joined by an elderly Loucheux, who gave us a better account of
+the eastern and western channels than we had hitherto obtained. "The
+west branch," he said, "would take us to the sea, and flowed the whole
+way at no great distance from the mountains." "The eastern was a good
+channel, and passed close to the hills on that side." He further
+informed us that the Esquimaux were generally to be found on an island
+in the eastern channel, but were seldom seen in the western branch. He
+was, however, unacquainted with the coast, and we found afterwards that
+he knew little about the movements of the Esquimaux.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenote">Tuesday, 4th.</span>By six in the morning of the 4th the boats were all laden,
+and ready for departure. It was impossible not to be struck with the
+difference between our present complete state of equipment and that on
+which we had embarked on our former disastrous voyage. Instead of a
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[Pg 94]</a></span>frail bark canoe, and a scanty supply of food, we were now about
+to commence the sea voyage in excellent boats, stored with three months'
+provision. At Dr. Richardson's desire the western party embarked first.
+He and his companions saluted us with three hearty cheers, which were
+warmly returned; and as we were passing round the point that was to hide
+them from our view, we perceived them also embarking. Augustus was
+rather melancholy, as might have been expected, on his parting from
+Ooligbuck, to proceed he knew not whither; but he recovered his wonted
+flow of spirits by the evening.</p>
+
+<p>The western party were distributed as follows:&mdash;</p>
+
+<table cellpadding="10"> <tr> <td align="center"><b>LION.</b></td><td></td> <td align="center"><b>RELIANCE.</b></td> </tr> <tr> <td> <br />John Franklin, <i>Captain R.N.</i><br /> William Duncan,
+<i>Cockswain</i>.<br /> Thomas Matthews, <i>Carpenter</i>.<br /> Gustavus Aird, <i>Bowman</i>.<br />
+George Wilson, <i>Marine</i>.<br /> Archibald Stewart, <i>Soldier</i>.<br /> Neil Mac Donald,
+<i>Voyager</i>.<br /> Augustus, <i>Esquimaux</i>. </td>
+<td>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td> <td> <br />George Back,
+<i>Lieutenant R.N.</i><br /> Robert Spinks, <i>Cockswain</i>.<br /> Robert Hallom, <i>Corpl. of
+Marines</i>.<br /> Charles Mackenzie, <i>Bowman</i>.<br /> Alexander Currie, <i>Middle
+Man</i>.<br /> Robert Spence, <i>Ditto</i>.<br /> Alexis Vivier, <i>Canadian</i>.<br />
+Fran&ccedil;ois Felix, <i>Ditto</i>.<br /> </td> </tr> </table>
+
+<p>Our course was directly towards the Rocky Mountain range, till we came
+near the low land that skirts its base; where, following the deepest
+channel, we turned to the northward. I was desirous of coasting the main
+shore, but finding some of the westernmost branches too shallow, we kept
+on the outside of three islands for about twelve miles, when we entered
+the channel that washes the west side of Simpson's Island. It was
+winding, and its breadth seldom exceeded a quarter of a mile. During our
+progress we occasionally caught a glimpse of the Rocky Mountains, which
+was an agreeable relief to the very dull picture that the muddy islands
+in our neighbourhood afforded. We halted to breakfast just before noon,
+and observed the latitude 67&deg; 51' N.</p>
+
+<p>In the afternoon one deer was seen, and many swans and geese; we did not
+fire at them, for fear of alarming any Esquimaux that might be near.
+Encamped at eight <span class="smcap">p.m.</span>, opposite Simpson's Island, in latitude 68&deg;
+13' N., longitude 134&deg; 27' W. The boats were secured without
+discharging the cargoes, and two men were placed on guard, to be
+relieved every two hours.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenotel">Wednesday, 5th.</span>We set forward at four <span class="smcap">a.m.</span>, with a favourable breeze,
+and made good progress, though the river was very winding. At eight we
+entered a branch that turned to the westward round the point of Halkett
+Island <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[Pg 95]</a></span>into the channel washing the main shore. We soon
+afterwards arrived at a spot where a large body of Esquimaux had been
+encamped in the spring, and supposing that they might revisit this
+place, a present of an ice-chisel, kettle, and knife, was hung up in a
+conspicuous situation. Soon after we had entered the channel that flows
+by the main shore, we first perceived lop-sticks, or pine trees,
+divested of their lower branches, for the purpose of land-marks, and
+therefore concluded it was much frequented by the Esquimaux. Our course
+was then altered to N.W., and we soon passed the last of the well-wooded
+islands. The spruce fir-trees terminated in latitude 68&deg; 36' N.; and
+dwarf willows only grew below this part. A very picturesque view was
+obtained of the Rocky Mountains, and we saw the entire outline of their
+peaked hills, table-land, and quoin shaped terminations. Two lofty
+ranges were fronted by a lower line of round-backed hills, in which we
+perceived the strata to be horizontal, and the stone of a yellow colour.
+A few miles lower down we found hills of sand close to the west border
+of the river. We passed several deserted huts, and in one spot saw many
+chips and pieces of split drift-wood, that appeared to have been
+recently cut. The channel varied in breadth from a half to
+three-quarters of a mile, but, except in the stream of the current, the
+water was so shallow as scarcely to float the boats, and its greatest
+depth did not exceed five feet. We landed at eight <span class="smcap">p.m.</span>, on Halkett
+Island, intending to encamp, but owing to the swampiness of the ground
+the tent could not be pitched. Having made a fire and cooked our supper,
+we retired to sleep under the coverings of the boats, which afforded us
+good shelter from a gale and heavy rain that came on before midnight.
+Latitude 68&deg; 39' N., longitude 135&deg; 35' W.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenote">Thursday, 6th.</span>The continuance of stormy weather detained us until two
+<span class="smcap">p.m.</span> of the 9th, when the rain ceasing, we embarked. After passing
+through the expansion of the river near the west extreme of Halkett
+Island, we turned into the narrower and more winding channel, between
+Colvill Island and the main. A fog coming on at eight <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> we encamped,
+in latitude 68&deg; 48' N., longitude 136&deg; 4' W.; temperature of the
+air 42&deg;, that of the water being 47&deg; in the middle of the
+stream. Several of the glaucous gulls were seen, and this circumstance,
+as well as a line of bright cloud to the N.W. resembling the ice-blink,
+convinced us that the sea was not far off. A rein-deer appearing near
+the encampment, two men were sent after it, who returned unsuccessful.
+Augustus obtained a goose for supper. Many geese, swans, and ducks,
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[Pg 96]</a></span>had been seen on the marshy shores of the island in the course of
+the day.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenotel">Friday, 7th.</span>The night was cold, and at daylight on the 7th the
+thermometer indicated 36&deg;. Embarking at four <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> we sailed down the
+river for two hours, when our progress was arrested by the shallowness
+of the water. Having endeavoured, without effect, to drag the boats over
+the flat, we remounted the stream to examine an opening to the westward,
+which we had passed. On reaching the opening we found the current
+setting through it into the Mackenzie, by which we knew that it could
+not afford a passage to the sea, but we pulled up it a little way, in
+the hope of obtaining a view over the surrounding low grounds from the
+top of an Esquimaux house which we saw before us. A low fog, which had
+prevailed all the morning, cleared away, and we discovered that the
+stream we had now ascended issued from a chain of lakes lying betwixt us
+and the western hills, which were about six miles distant, the whole
+intervening country between the hills and the Mackenzie being flat.</p>
+
+<p>After obtaining an observation for longitude in 136&deg; 19' W., and
+taking the bearing of several remarkable points of the Rocky Mountain
+range, we returned to the Mackenzie, and passing the shallows which had
+before impeded us, by taking one half the boats' cargoes over at a time,
+we came in sight of the mouth of the river. Whilst the crews were
+stowing the boats, I obtained an observation for latitude in 68&deg; 53'
+N., and having walked towards the mouth of the river, discovered on an
+island, which formed the east side of the bay into which the river
+opened, a crowd of tents, with many Esquimaux strolling amongst them. I
+instantly hastened to the boats, to make preparations for opening a
+communication with them, agreeably to my instructions. A selection of
+articles for presents and trade being made, the rest of the lading was
+closely covered up; the arms were inspected, and every man was directed
+to keep his gun ready for immediate use. I had previously informed
+Lieutenant Back of my intention of opening the communication with the
+Esquimaux by landing amongst them, accompanied only by Augustus; and I
+now instructed him to keep the boats afloat, and the crews with their
+arms ready to support us in the event of the natives proving hostile;
+but on no account to fire until he was convinced that our safety could
+be secured in no other way. Having received an impression from the
+narratives of different navigators that the sacrifices of life which had
+occurred in their interviews with savages, had been generally occasioned
+by the crews mistaking noise and <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[Pg 97]</a></span>violent gestures for decided
+hostility, I thought it necessary to explain my sentiments on this point
+to all the men, and peremptorily forbade their firing till I set the
+example, or till they were ordered to do so by Lieutenant Back. They
+were also forbidden to trade with the natives on any pretence, and were
+ordered to leave every thing of that kind to the officers.</p>
+
+<p>On quitting the channel of the river we entered into the bay, which was
+about six miles wide, with an unbounded prospect to seaward, and steered
+towards the tents under easy sail, with the ensigns flying. The water
+became shallow as we drew towards the island, and the boats touched the
+ground when about a mile from the beach; we shouted, and made signs to
+the Esquimaux to come off, and then pulled a short way back to await
+their arrival in deeper water. Three canoes instantly put off from the
+shore, and before they could reach us others were launched in such quick
+succession, that the whole space between the island and the boats was
+covered by them. The Esquimaux canoes contain only one person, and are
+named <i>kaiyacks</i>; but they have a kind of open boat capable of holding
+six or eight people, which is named <i>oomiak</i>. The men alone use the
+kaiyacks, and the oomiaks are allotted to the women and children. We
+endeavoured to count their numbers as they approached, and had proceeded
+as far as seventy-three canoes, and five oomiaks, when the sea became so
+crowded by fresh arrivals, that we could advance no farther in our
+reckoning. The three headmost canoes were paddled by elderly men, who,
+most probably, had been selected to open the communication. They
+advanced towards us with much caution, halting when just within speaking
+distance, until they had been assured of our friendship, and repeatedly
+invited by Augustus to approach and receive the present which I offered
+to them. Augustus next explained to them in detail the purport of our
+visit, and told them that if we succeeded in finding a navigable channel
+for large ships, a trade highly beneficial to them would be opened. They
+were delighted with this intelligence, and repeated it to their
+countrymen, who testified their joy by tossing their hands aloft, and
+raising the most deafening shout of applause I ever heard.</p>
+
+<p>After the first present, I resolved to bestow no more gratuitously, but
+always to exact something, however small, in return; the three elderly
+men readily offered the ornaments they wore in their cheeks, their arms,
+and knives, in exchange for the articles I gave them. Up to this time
+the first three were the only kaiyacks that had ventured near the boats,
+but the natives around us had now increased to two hundred and <span class='pagenum'><a
+name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[Pg 98]</a></span>fifty or three hundred persons, and
+they all became anxious to share in the lucrative trade which they saw
+established, and pressed eagerly upon us, offering for sale their bows,
+arrows, and spears, which they had hitherto kept concealed within their
+canoes. I endeavoured in vain, amidst the clamour and bustle of trade,
+to obtain some information respecting the coast, but finding the natives
+becoming more and more importunate and troublesome, I determined to
+leave them, and, therefore, directed the boats' heads to be put to
+seaward. Notwithstanding the forwardness of the Esquimaux, which we
+attributed solely to the desire of a rude people to obtain the novel
+articles they saw in our possession, they had hitherto shown no
+unfriendly disposition; and when we told them of our intention of going
+to sea, they expressed no desire to detain us, but, on the contrary,
+when the Lion grounded in the act of turning, they assisted us in the
+kindest manner by dragging her round. This manoeuvre was not of much
+advantage to us, for, from the rapid ebbing of the tide, both boats lay
+aground; and the Esquimaux told us, through the medium of Augustus, that
+the whole bay was alike flat, which we afterwards found to be correct.</p>
+
+<p>An accident happened at this time, which was productive of unforeseen
+and very annoying consequences. A kaiyack being overset by one of the
+Lion's oars, its owner was plunged into the water with his head in the
+mud, and apparently in danger of being drowned. We instantly extricated
+him from his unpleasant situation, and took him into the boat until the
+water could be thrown out of his kaiyack, and Augustus, seeing him
+shivering with cold, wrapped him up in his own great coat. At first he
+was exceedingly angry, but soon became reconciled to his situation, and
+looking about, discovered that we had many bales, and other articles, in
+the boat, which had been concealed from the people in the kaiyacks, by
+the coverings being carefully spread over all. He soon began to ask for
+every thing he saw, and expressed much displeasure on our refusing to
+comply with his demands; he also, as we afterwards learned, excited the
+cupidity of others by his account of the inexhaustible riches in the
+Lion, and several of the younger men endeavoured to get into both our
+boats, but we resisted all their attempts. Though we had not hitherto
+observed any of them stealing, yet they showed so much desire to obtain
+my flag, that I had it furled and put out of sight, as well as every
+thing else that I thought could prove a temptation to them. They
+continued, however, to press upon us so closely, and made so many
+efforts to get into the boats, that I <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[Pg 99]</a></span>accepted the offer of two
+chiefs, who said that if they were allowed to come in, they would keep
+the others out. For a time they kept their word, and the crews took
+advantage of the respite thus afforded, to endeavour to force the boats
+towards the river into deeper water. The Reliance floated, but the Lion
+was immoveable, and Lieutenant Back dropping astern again made his boat
+fast to the Lion by a rope. At this time one of the Lion's crew
+perceived that the man whose kaiyack had been upset had a pistol under
+his shirt, and was about to take it from him, but I ordered him to
+desist, as I thought it might have been purchased from the Loucheux. It
+had been, in fact, stolen from Lieutenant Back, and the thief,
+perceiving our attention directed to it, leaped out of the boat, and
+joined his countrymen, carrying with him the great coat which Augustus
+had lent him.</p>
+
+<p>The water had now ebbed so far, that it was not knee deep at the boats,
+and the younger men wading in crowds around us, tried to steal every
+thing within their reach; slyly, however, and with so much dexterity, as
+almost to escape detection. The moment this disposition was manifested,
+I directed the crews not to suffer any one to come alongside, and
+desired Augustus to tell the two chiefs, who still remained seated in
+the Lion, that the noise and confusion occasioned by the crowd around
+the boats greatly impeded our exertions; and that if they would go on
+shore and leave us for the present, we would hereafter return from the
+ship which we expected to meet near this part of the coast, with a more
+abundant supply of goods. They received this communication with much
+apparent satisfaction, and jumping out of the boats repeated the speech
+aloud to their companions. From the general exclamation of "<i>teyma</i>,"
+which followed, and from perceiving many of the elderly men retire to a
+distance, I conceived that they acquiesced in the propriety of the
+suggestion, and that they were going away, but I was much deceived. They
+only retired to concert a plan of attack, and returned in a short time
+shouting some words which Augustus could not make out. We soon, however,
+discovered their purport, by two of the three chiefs who were on board
+the Reliance, jumping out, and, with the others who hurried to their
+assistance, dragging her towards the south shore of the river.
+Lieutenant Back desired the chief who remained with him to tell them to
+desist, but he replied by pointing to the beach, and repeating the word
+<i>teyma</i>, <i>teyma</i>, with a good-natured smile. He said, however, something
+to those who were seated in the canoes that were alongside, on which
+they threw their long knives and <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[Pg 100]</a></span>arrows into the boat, taking
+care, in so doing, that the handles and feathered ends were turned
+towards the crew, as an indication of pacific intentions.</p>
+
+<p>As soon as I perceived the Reliance moving under the efforts of the
+natives, I directed the Lion's crew to endeavour to follow her, but our
+boat remained fast until the Esquimaux lent their aid and dragged her
+after the Reliance. Two of the most powerful men, jumping on board at
+the same time, seized me by the wrists and forced me to sit between
+them; and as I shook them loose two or three times, a third Esquimaux
+took his station in front to catch my arm whenever I attempted to lift
+my gun, or the broad dagger which hung by my side. The whole way to the
+shore they kept repeating the word "<i>teyma</i>," beating gently on my left
+breast with their hands, and pressing mine against their breasts. As we
+neared the beach, two oomiaks, full of women, arrived, and the
+"<i>teymas</i>" and vociferation were redoubled. The Reliance was first
+brought to the shore, and the Lion close to her a few seconds
+afterwards. The three men who held me now leaped ashore, and those who
+had remained in their canoes taking them out of the water, carried them
+to a little distance. A numerous party then drawing their knives, and
+stripping themselves to the waist, ran to the Reliance, and having first
+hauled her as far up as they could, began a regular pillage, handing the
+articles to the women, who, ranged in a row behind, quickly conveyed
+them out of sight. Lieutenant Back and his crew strenuously, but
+good-humouredly, resisted the attack, and rescued many things from their
+grasp, but they were overpowered by numbers, and had even some
+difficulty in preserving their arms. One fellow had the audacity to
+snatch Vivier's knife from his breast, and to cut the buttons from his
+coat, whilst three stout Esquimaux surrounded Lieutenant Back with
+uplifted daggers, and were incessant in their demands for whatever
+attracted their attention, especially for the anchor buttons which he
+wore on his waistcoat. In this juncture a young chief coming to his aid,
+drove the assailants away. In their retreat they carried off a writing
+desk and cloak, which the chief rescued, and then seating himself on
+Lieutenant Back's knee, he endeavoured to persuade his countrymen to
+desist by vociferating "<i>teyma teyma</i>," and was, indeed, very active in
+saving whatever he could from their depredations. The Lion had hitherto
+been beset by smaller numbers, and her crew, by firmly keeping their
+seats on the cover spread over the cargo, and by beating the natives off
+with the butt-ends of their muskets, had been able to prevent any
+article of importance from being carried <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">[Pg 101]</a></span>away. But as soon as I
+perceived that the work of plunder was going on so actively in the
+Reliance, I went with Augustus to assist in repressing the tumult; and
+our bold and active little interpreter rushed among the crowd on shore,
+and harangued them on their treacherous conduct, until he was actually
+hoarse. In a short time, however, I was summoned back by Duncan, who
+called out to me that the Esquimaux had now commenced in earnest to
+plunder the Lion, and on my return, I found the sides of the boat lined
+with men as thick as they could stand, brandishing their knives in the
+most furious manner, and attempting to seize every thing that was moveable;
+whilst another party was ranged on the outside ready to bear away the
+stolen goods. The Lion's crew still kept their seats, but as it was
+impossible for so small a number to keep off such a formidable and
+determined body, several articles were carried off. Our principal object
+was to prevent the loss of the arms, oars, or masts, or any thing on
+which the continuance of the voyage, or our personal safety, depended.
+Many attempts were made to purloin the box containing the astronomical
+instruments, and Duncan, after thrice rescuing it from their hands, made
+it fast to his leg with a cord, determined that they should drag him
+away also if they took it.</p>
+
+<p>In the whole of this unequal contest, the self-possession of our men was
+not more conspicuous than the coolness with which the Esquimaux received
+the heavy blows dealt to them with the butts of the muskets. But at
+length, irritated at being so often foiled in their attempts, several of
+them jumped on board and forcibly endeavoured to take the daggers and
+shot-belts that were about the men's persons; and I myself was engaged
+with three of them who were trying to disarm me. Lieutenant Back
+perceiving our situation, and fully appreciating my motives in not
+coming to extremities, had the kindness to send to my assistance the
+young chief who had protected him, and who, on his arrival, drove my
+antagonists out of the boat. I then saw that my crew were nearly
+overpowered in the fore part of the boat, and hastening to their aid, I
+fortunately arrived in time to prevent George Wilson from discharging
+the contents of his musket into the body of an Esquimaux. He had
+received a provocation of which I was ignorant until the next day, for
+the fellow had struck at him with a knife, and cut through his coat and
+waistcoat; and it was only after the affray was over that I learned that
+Gustavus Aird, the bowman of the Lion, and three of the Reliance's crew,
+had also narrowly escaped from being wounded, their clothes being cut by
+the blows made at them with knives. No sooner was the bow clear of one
+set <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[Pg 102]</a></span>of marauders, than another party commenced their operations
+at the stern. My gun was now the object of the struggle, which was
+beginning to assume a more serious complexion, when the whole of the
+Esquimaux suddenly fled, and hid themselves behind the drift timber and
+canoes on the beach. It appears that by the exertions of the crew, the
+Reliance was again afloat, and Lieutenant Back wisely judging that this
+was the proper moment for more active interference, directed his men to
+level their muskets, which had produced that sudden panic. The Lion
+happily floated soon after, and both were retiring from the beach, when
+the Esquimaux having recovered from their consternation, put their
+kaiyacks in the water, and were preparing to follow us; but I desired
+Augustus to say that I would shoot the first man who came within range
+of our muskets, which prevented them.</p>
+
+<p>It was now about eight o'clock in the evening, and we had been engaged
+in this harrassing contest for several hours, yet the only things of
+importance which they had carried off were the mess canteen and kettles,
+a tent, a bale containing blankets and shoes, one of the men's bags, and
+the jib-sails. The other articles they took could well be spared, and
+they would, in fact, have been distributed amongst them, had they
+remained quiet. The place to which the boats were dragged is designated
+by the name of Pillage Point. I cannot sufficiently praise the fortitude
+and obedience of both the boats' crews in abstaining from the use of
+their arms. In the first instance I had been influenced by the desire of
+preventing unnecessary bloodshed, and afterwards, when the critical
+situation of my party might have well warranted me in employing more
+decided means for their defence, I still endeavoured to temporize, being
+convinced that as long as the boats lay aground, and we were beset by
+such numbers, armed with long knives, bows, arrows, and spears, we could
+not use fire-arms to advantage. The howling of the women, and the
+clamour of the men, proved the high excitement to which they had wrought
+themselves; and I am still of opinion that, mingled as we were with
+them, the first blood we had shed would have been instantly revenged by
+the sacrifice of all our lives.</p>
+
+<p>The preceding narrative shows that, bad as the general conduct of the
+Esquimaux was, we had some active friends amongst them; and I was
+particularly desirous of cultivating a good understanding with them, for
+we were as yet ignorant of the state of the ice at sea, and did not know
+how long we should have to remain in their neighbourhood. I was
+determined, however, now to keep them at bay, and to convince them, if
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[Pg 103]</a></span>they made any further attempts to annoy us, that our forbearance
+had proceeded from good-will, and not from the want of power to punish
+them. We had not gone above a quarter of a mile from Pillage Point
+before the boats again took the ground at the distance of one hundred
+and fifty yards from the shore; and having ascertained by the men wading
+in every direction, that there was no deeper water, we made the boats
+fast side by side, and remained in that situation five hours.</p>
+
+<p>Shortly after the boats had been secured, seven or eight of the natives
+walked along the beach, and carrying on a conversation with Augustus,
+invited him to a conference on shore. I was at first very unwilling to
+permit him to go, but the brave little fellow entreated so earnestly
+that I would suffer him to land and reprove the Esquimaux for their
+conduct, that I at length consented, and the more readily, on seeing
+that the young chief who had acted in so friendly a manner was amongst
+the number on the beach. By the time that Augustus reached the shore,
+the number of Esquimaux amounted to forty, and we watched with great
+anxiety the animated conversation he carried on with them. On his return
+he told us that its purport was as follows:&mdash;"Your conduct," said
+he, "has been very bad, and unlike that of all other Esquimaux. Some of
+you even stole from me, your countryman, but that I do not mind; I only
+regret that you should have treated in this violent manner the white
+people who came solely to do you kindness. My tribe were in the same
+unhappy state in which you now are, before the white people came to
+Churchill, but at present they are supplied with every thing they need,
+and you see that I am well clothed; I get all that I want, and am very
+comfortable. You cannot expect, after the transactions of this day, that
+these people will ever bring goods to your country again, unless you
+show your contrition by returning the stolen goods. The white people
+love the Esquimaux, and wish to show them the same kindness that they
+bestow upon the Indians: do not deceive yourselves, and suppose that
+they are afraid of you; I tell you they are not, and that it is entirely
+owing to their humanity that many of you were not killed to-day; for
+they have all guns, with which they can destroy you either when near or
+at a distance. I also have a gun, and can assure you that if a white man
+had fallen, I would have been the first to have revenged his death."</p>
+
+<p>The veracity of Augustus was beyond all question with us; such a speech
+delivered in a circle of forty armed men, was a remarkable instance of
+personal courage. We could perceive, by the shouts of applause with
+which they filled the pauses in <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[Pg 104]</a></span>his harangue, that they assented
+to his arguments, and he told us that they had expressed great sorrow
+for having given us so much cause of offence, and pleaded, in mitigation
+of their conduct, that they had never seen white people before, that
+every thing in our possession was so new to them, and so desirable, that
+they could not resist the temptation of stealing, and begged him to
+assure us that they never would do the like again, for they were anxious
+to be on terms of friendship with us, that they might partake of the
+benefits which his tribe derived from their intercourse with the white
+people. I told Augustus to put their sincerity to the test by desiring
+them to bring back a large kettle and the tent, which they did, together
+with some shoes, having sent for them to the island whither they had
+been conveyed. After this act of restitution, Augustus requested to be
+permitted to join a dance to which they had invited him, and he was, for
+upwards of an hour, engaged in dancing and singing with all his might in
+the midst of a company who were all armed with knives, or bows and
+arrows. He afterwards told us that he was much delighted on finding that
+the words of the song, and the different attitudes of the dances, were
+precisely similar to those used in his own country when a friendly
+meeting took place with strangers. Augustus now learned from them that
+there was a regular ebb and flow of the tide in this bay, and that when
+the sun came round to a particular point there would be water enough to
+float the boats, if we kept along the western shore. This communication
+relieved me from much anxiety, for the water was perfectly fresh, and
+from the flood-tide having passed unperceived whilst we were engaged
+with the Esquimaux, it appeared to us to have been subsiding for the
+preceding twelve hours, which naturally excited doubts of our being able
+to effect a passage to the sea in this direction.</p>
+
+<p>The Esquimaux gradually retired as the night advanced; and when there
+were only a few remaining, two of our men were sent to a fire which they
+had made, to prepare chocolate for the refreshment of the party. Up to
+this period we remained seated in the boats, with our muskets in our
+hands, and keeping a vigilant look out on Augustus, and the natives
+around him. <span class="sidenotel">Saturday, 8th.</span>As they had foretold, the water began to flow
+about midnight, and by half past one in the morning of the 8th it was
+sufficiently deep to allow of our dragging the boats forward to a part
+where they floated. We pulled along the western shore about six miles,
+till the appearance of the sky bespoke the immediate approach of a gale;
+and we had scarcely landed before it came on with <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[Pg 105]</a></span>violence, and
+attended with so much swell as to compel us to unload the boats and drag
+them up on the beach.</p>
+
+<p>The whole party having been exhausted by the labour and anxiety of the
+preceding twenty-four hours, two men were appointed to keep watch, and
+the rest slept until eleven o'clock in the morning, when we began to
+repair the damage which the sails and rigging had sustained from the
+attempts made by the Esquimaux to cut away the copper thimbles. We were
+thus employed when Lieutenant Back espied, through the haze, the whole
+body of the Esquimaux paddling towards us. Uncertain of the purport of
+their visit, and not choosing to open a conference with so large a body
+in a situation so disadvantageous as our present one, we hastened to
+launch the boats through the surf, and load them with our utmost speed;
+conceiving that when once fairly afloat, we could keep any number at
+bay. We had scarcely pulled into deep water before some of the kaiyacks
+had arrived within speaking distance, and the man in the headmost one,
+holding out a kettle, called aloud that he wished to return it, and that
+the oomiak which was some distance behind, contained the things that had
+been stolen from us, which they were desirous of restoring, and
+receiving in return any present that we might be disposed to give. I did
+not deem it prudent, however, for the sake of the few things in their
+possession which we required, to hazard their whole party collecting
+around us, and, therefore, desired Augustus to tell them to go back; but
+they continued to advance until I fired a ball ahead of the leading
+canoe, which had the desired effect&mdash;the whole party veering round,
+except four, who followed us for a little way, and then went back to
+join their companions.</p>
+
+<p>I have been minute in my details of our proceedings with these
+Esquimaux, for the purpose of elucidating the character of the people we
+had to deal with; and I feel that the account would be incomplete
+without the mention, in this place, of some communications made to us in
+the month of August following, which fully explained the motives of
+their conduct. We learned that up to the time that the kaiyack was
+upset, the Esquimaux were actuated by the most friendly feelings
+towards us, but that the fellow whom we had treated so kindly after the
+accident, discovering what the boats contained, proposed to the younger
+men to pillage them. This suggestion was buzzed about, and led to the
+conference which the old men held together when I desired them to go
+away, in which the robbery was decided upon, and a pretty general wish
+was expressed that it should be attended with the total massacre of
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">[Pg 106]</a></span>our party. Providentially a few suggested the impropriety of
+including Augustus; and for a reason which could scarcely have been
+imagined. "If we kill him," said they, "no more white people will visit
+our lands, and we shall lose the opportunity of getting a supply of
+their valuable goods; but if we spare him, he can be sent back with a
+story which we shall invent to induce another party of white people to
+come among us." This argument prevailed at the time; but after the
+interviews with Augustus at the dance, they retired to their island,
+where they were so much inflamed by the sight of the valuable articles
+which they had obtained, that they all, without exception, regretted
+that they had allowed us to escape. While in this frame of mind the
+smoke of our fire being discovered, a consultation was immediately held,
+and a very artful plan laid for the destruction of the party, including
+Augustus, whom they conceived to be so firmly attached to us that it was
+in vain to attempt to win him to their cause. They expected to find us
+on shore; but to provide against the boats getting away if we should
+have embarked, they caused some kettles to be fastened conspicuously to
+the leading kaiyack, in order to induce us to stop. The kaiyacks were
+then to be placed in such a position as to hamper the boats, and their
+owners were to keep us in play until the whole party had come up, when
+the attack was to commence. Through the blessing of Providence, their
+scheme was frustrated.</p>
+
+<p>But to resume the narrative of the voyage. The breeze became moderate
+and fair; the sails were set, and we passed along the coast in a W.N.W.
+direction, until eleven in the evening, when we halted on a low island,
+covered with drift wood, to repair the sails, and to put the boats in
+proper order for a sea voyage. <span class="sidenotel">Sunday, 9th.</span>The continuance and increase
+of the favourable wind urged us to make all possible despatch, and at
+three in the morning of the 9th again embarking, we kept in three
+fathoms water at the distance of two miles from the land. After sailing
+twelve miles, our progress was completely stopped by the ice adhering to
+the shore, and stretching beyond the limits of our view to seaward. We
+could not effect a landing until we had gone back some miles, as we had
+passed a sheet of ice which was fast to the shore; but at length a
+convenient spot being found, the boats were hauled up on the beach. We
+quickly ascended to the top of the bank to look around, and from thence
+had the mortification to perceive that we had just arrived in time to
+witness the first rupture of the ice. The only lane of water in the
+direction of our course was that from which we had been forced to
+retreat: <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">[Pg 107]</a></span>in every other part the sea appeared as firmly frozen
+as in winter; and even close to our encampment the masses of ice were
+piled up to the height of thirty feet. Discouraging as was this
+prospect, we had the consolation to know that our store of provision was
+sufficiently ample to allow of a few days' detention.</p>
+
+<p>The coast in this part consists of black earth, unmixed with stones of
+any kind, and its general elevation is from sixty to eighty feet, though
+in some places it swells into hills of two hundred and fifty feet. A
+level plain, abounding in small lakes, extends from the top of these
+banks to the base of a line of hills which lie in front of the Rocky
+Mountains. The plain was clothed with grass and plants, then in flower,
+specimens of which were collected. We recognised in the nearest range of
+the Rocky Mountains, which I have named after my much-esteemed companion
+Dr. Richardson, the Fitton and the Cupola Mountains, which we had seen
+from Garry Island at the distance of sixty miles. Few patches of snow
+were visible on any part of the range.</p>
+
+<p>Having obtained observations for longitude and variation, we retired to
+bed about eight <span class="smcap">a.m.</span>, but had only just fallen asleep when we were
+roused by the men on guard calling out that a party of Esquimaux were
+close to the tents; and, on going out, we found the whole of our party
+under arms. Three Esquimaux had come upon us unawares, and, in terror at
+seeing so many strangers, they were on the point of discharging their
+arrows, when Augustus's voice arrested them, and by explaining the
+purpose of our arrival, soon calmed their fears. Lieutenant Back and I
+having made each of them a present, and received in return some arrows,
+a very amicable conference followed, which was managed by Augustus with
+equal tact and judgment. It was gratifying to observe our visitors
+jumping for joy as he pointed out the advantages to be derived from an
+intercourse with the white people, to whom they were now introduced for
+the first time. We found that they belonged to a party whose tents were
+pitched about two miles from us; and as they were very desirous that
+their friends might also enjoy the gratification of seeing us, they
+begged that Augustus would return with them to convey the invitation;
+which request was granted at his desire.</p>
+
+<p>Before their departure, marks being set up on the beach one hundred and
+fifty yards in front of the tent, and twice that distance from the
+boats, they were informed that this was the nearest approach which any
+of their party would be permitted to make; and that at this boundary
+only would gifts be made, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">[Pg 108]</a></span>and barter carried on. Augustus was
+likewise desired to explain to them the destructive power of our guns,
+and to assure them that every person would be shot who should pass the
+prescribed limit. This plan was adopted in all succeeding interviews
+with the Esquimaux. After five hours' absence Augustus returned,
+accompanied by twenty men and two elderly women, who halted at the
+boundary. They had come without bows or arrows, by the desire of
+Augustus, and, following his instruction, each gave Lieutenant Back and
+myself a hearty shake of the hand. We made presents to every one, of
+beads, fish-hooks, awls, and trinkets; and that they might have entire
+confidence in the whole party, our men were furnished with beads to
+present to them. The men were directed to advance singly, and in such a
+manner as to prevent the Esquimaux from counting our number, unless they
+paid the greatest attention, which they were not likely to do while
+their minds were occupied by a succession of novelties.</p>
+
+<p>Our visitors were soon quite at ease, and we were preparing to question
+them respecting the coast, and the time of removal of the ice, when
+Augustus begged that he might put on his gayest dress, and his medals,
+before the conference began. This was the work of a few seconds; but
+when he returned, surprise and delight at his altered appearance and
+numerous ornaments so engaged their minds, that their attention could
+not be drawn to any other subject for the next half hour. "Ah," said an
+old man, taking up his medals, "these must have been made by such people
+as you have been describing, for none that we have seen could do any
+thing like it;" then taking hold of his coat, he asked "what kind of
+animal do these skins which you and the chiefs wear belong to? we have
+none such in our country." The anchor buttons also excited their
+admiration. At length we managed to gain their attention, and were
+informed that, as soon as the wind should blow strong from the land, the
+ice might be expected to remove from the shore, so as to open a passage
+for boats, and that it would remain in the offing until the reappearance
+of the stars. "Further to the westward," they continued, "the ice often
+adheres to the land throughout the summer; and when it does break away,
+it is carried but a short distance to seaward, and is brought back
+whenever a strong wind blows on the coast. If there be any channels in
+these parts, they are unsafe for boats, as the ice is continually
+tossing about." "We wonder, therefore," they said, "that you are not
+provided with sledges and dogs, as our men are, to travel along the
+land, when these interruptions occur." They concluded by warning us not
+to <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">[Pg 109]</a></span>stay to the westward after the stars could be seen, because
+the winds would then blow strong from the sea, and pack the ice on the
+shore. On further inquiry we learned that this party is usually
+employed, during the summer, in catching whales and seals, in the
+vicinity of the Mackenzie, and that they seldom travel to the westward
+beyond a few days' journey. We were, therefore, not much distressed by
+intelligence which we supposed might have originated in exaggerated
+accounts received from others. In the evening Augustus returned with
+them to their tents, and two of the men undertook to fetch a specimen of
+the rock from Mount Fitton, which was distant about twenty miles. The
+following observations were obtained:&mdash;Latitude 69&deg; 1' 24" N.;
+longitude 137&deg; 35' W.; variation 46&deg; 41' E.; dip 82&deg; 22'.</p>
+
+<p>The party assembled at divine service in the evening. The wind blew in
+violent squalls during the night, which brought such a heavy swell upon
+the ice, that the larger masses near the encampment were broken before
+the morning of the 10th, but there was no change in the main body.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenote">Monday, 10th.</span>The Esquimaux revisited us in the morning, with their women
+and children; the party consisted of forty-eight persons. They seated
+themselves as before, in a semicircle, the men being in front, and the
+women behind. Presents were made to those who had not before received
+any; and we afterwards purchased several pairs of seal-skin boots, a few
+pieces of dressed seal-skin, and some deer-skin cut and twisted, to be
+used as cords. Beads, pins, needles, and ornamental articles, were most
+in request by the women, to whom the goods principally belonged, but the
+men were eager to get any thing that was made of iron. They were
+supplied with hatchets, files, ice chisels, fire-steels, Indian awls,
+and fish-hooks. They were very anxious to procure knives, but as each
+was in possession of one, I reserved the few which we had for another
+occasion. The quarter from whence these knives were obtained, will
+appear in a subsequent part of the narrative. It was amusing to see the
+purposes to which they applied the different articles given to them;
+some of the men danced about with a large cod-fish hook dangling from
+the nose, others stuck an awl through the same part, and the women
+immediately decorated their dresses with the ear-rings, thimbles, or
+whatever trinkets they received. There was in the party a great
+proportion of elderly persons, who appeared in excellent health, and
+were very active. The men were stout and robust, and taller than
+Augustus, or than those seen on the east coast by Captain Parry. Their
+cheek-bones <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[Pg 110]</a></span>were less projecting than the representations given
+of the Esquimaux on the eastern coast, but they had the small eye, and
+broad nose, which ever distinguish that people. Except the young
+persons, the whole party were afflicted with sore eyes, arising from
+exposure to the glare of ice and snow, and two of the old men were
+nearly blind. They wore the hair on the upper lip and chin; the latter,
+as well as that on their head, being permitted to grow long, though in
+some cases a circular spot on the crown of the head was cut bare, like
+the tonsure of the Roman catholic clergy. Every man had pieces of bone
+or shells thrust through the septum of his nose; and holes were pierced
+on each side of the under lip, in which were placed circular pieces of
+ivory, with a large blue bead in the centre, similar to those
+represented in the drawings of the natives on the N.W. coast of America,
+in Kotzebue's Voyage. These ornaments were so much valued, that they
+declined selling them; and when not rich enough to procure beads or
+ivory, stones and pieces of bone were substituted. These perforations
+are made at the age of puberty; and one of the party, who appeared to be
+about fourteen years old, was pointed out, with delight, by his parents,
+as having to undergo the operation in the following year. He was a
+good-looking boy, and we could not fancy his countenance would be much
+improved by the insertion of the bones or stones, which have the effect
+of depressing the under lip, and keeping the mouth open.</p>
+
+<p>Their dress consisted of a jacket of rein-deer skin, with a skirt behind
+and before, and a small hood; breeches of the same material, and boots
+of seal-skin. Their weapons for the chase were bows and arrows, very
+neatly made; the latter being headed with bone or iron; and for fishing,
+spears tipped with bone. They also catch fish with nets and lines. All
+were armed with knives, which they either keep in their hand, or thrust
+up the sleeve of their shirt. They had received from the Loucheux
+Indians some account of the destructive effects of guns. The dress of
+the women differed from that of the men only in their wearing wide
+trowsers, and in the size of their hoods, which do not fit close to the
+head, but are made large, for the purpose of receiving their children.
+These are ornamented with stripes of different coloured skins, and round
+the top is fastened a band of wolf's hair, made to stand erect. Their
+own black hair is very tastefully turned up from behind to the top of
+the head, and tied by strings of white and blue beads, or cords of white
+deer-skin. It is divided in front, so as to form on each side a thick
+tail, to which are appended strings of beads that reach to the waist.
+The women were <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">[Pg 111]</a></span>from four feet and a half to four and three
+quarters high, and generally fat. Some of the younger females, and the
+children, were pretty.</p>
+
+<p>It would appear that the walrus does not visit this part of the coast,
+as none of these people recognised a sketch of one, which Lieutenant
+Back drew; but they at once knew the seal and rein-deer. We learned that
+the polar bear is seldom seen, and only in the autumn; and likewise that
+there are very few of the brown bears, which we frequently saw on the
+coast eastward of the Coppermine River. We had already seen a few white
+whales, and we understood that they would resort to this part of the
+coast in greater numbers with the following moon.</p>
+
+<p>The habits of these people were similar, in every respect, to those of
+the tribes described by Captain Parry, and their dialect differed so
+little from that used by Augustus, that he had no difficulty in
+understanding them. He was, therefore, able to give them full
+particulars relative to the attack made by the other party, and they
+expressed themselves much hurt at their treacherous conduct. "Those are
+bad men," they said, "and never fail either to quarrel with us, or steal
+from us, when we meet. They come, every spring, from the eastern side of
+the Mackenzie, to fish at the place where you saw them, and return as
+soon as the ice opens. They are distinguished from us, who live to the
+westward of the river, by the men being tattoed across the face. Among
+our tribes the women only are tattoed;" having five or six blue lines
+drawn perpendicular from the under lip to the chin. The speaker added,
+"If you are obliged to return by this way, before these people remove,
+we, with a reinforcement of young men, will be in the vicinity, and will
+willingly accompany you to assist in repelling any attack." Augustus
+returned with the Esquimaux to their tents, as there was not the least
+prospect of our getting forward, though the ice was somewhat broken.</p>
+
+<p>A strong breeze from the westward during the night, contributed, with
+the swell, to the further reduction of the ice, in front of the
+encampment; <span class="sidenote">Tuesday, 11th.</span>and on the morning of the 11th, the wind
+changed to the eastward, and removed the pieces a little way off shore,
+though they were tossing too violently for the boats to proceed. The
+swell having subsided in the afternoon, we embarked; but at the end of a
+mile and a half were forced to land again, from the ice being fixed to
+the shore; and as the wind had now become strong, and was driving the
+loose pieces on the land, the boats were unloaded and landed on the
+beach. From the summit of an <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">[Pg 112]</a></span>adjoining hill we perceived an
+unbroken field of ice to the west, and, consequently, a barrier to our
+progress.</p>
+
+<p>We encamped on the spot which our Esquimaux friends had left in the
+morning, to remove in their oomiaks and kaiyacks towards the Mackenzie,
+where they could set their fishing nets, and catch whales and seals. One
+of them showed his honesty, by returning some arrows, and a piece of a
+pemmican bag, that we had left at our last resting-place. The men also
+joined us here with specimens of rock from Mount Fitton.</p>
+
+<p>The Esquimaux winter residences at this spot were constructed of drift
+timber, with the roots of the trees upwards, and contained from one to
+three small apartments, beside a cellar for their stores. There were
+generally two entrances, north and south, so low as to make it necessary
+to crawl through them. The only aperture was a hole at the top for the
+smoke, which, as well as the doorways, could be filled up with a block
+of snow at pleasure. When covered with snow, and with lamps of fire
+burning within, these habitations must be extremely warm, though to our
+ideas rather comfortless. Lofty stages were erected near them for the
+purpose of receiving their canoes, and bulky articles. A north-east gale
+came on in the evening, and rolled such a heavy surf on the beach, that
+twice, during the night, we were obliged to drag the boats and cargoes
+higher up.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenotel">Wednesday, 12th.</span>About three the next morning a heavy rain commenced, and
+continued, without intermission, through the day; at which we were
+delighted, however comfortless it made our situation, because we saw the
+ice gradually loosening from the land under its effects. We found the
+keeping a tide-pole fixed in the loose gravel beach impracticable here,
+as well as at the last resting-place, on account of the swell. It
+appeared to be high water this morning at half past one <span class="smcap">a.m.</span>, and that
+the rise of tide was about two feet. I need hardly observe that we had
+the sun constantly above the horizon, were it not for the purpose of
+mentioning the amusing mistakes which the men made as to the hour. In
+fact, when not employed, a question as to the time of day never failed
+to puzzle them, except about midnight, when the sun was near the
+northern horizon.</p>
+
+<p>Lieutenant Back missing the protractor which he used for laying down his
+bearings on the map, Augustus set off in the rain early this forenoon to
+recover it from an Esquimaux woman, whom he had seen pick it up. The
+rain ceased in the afternoon, the wind gradually abated, and by eight in
+the evening it was calm. A south wind followed, which opened a pas<span class='pagenum'><a
+name="Page_113" id="Page_113">[Pg 113]</a></span>sage for the boat, but Augustus
+was not in sight. At midnight we became greatly alarmed for his safety,
+having now found that he had taken his gun, which we supposed the
+natives might have endeavoured to wrest from him, and we were on the
+point of despatching a party in search of him, <span class="sidenote">Thursday, 13th.</span>when he
+arrived at four in the morning of the 13th, much fatigued, accompanied
+by three of the natives. His journey had been lengthened by the
+Esquimaux having gone farther to the eastward than he had expected, but
+he had recovered the protractor which had been kept in their ignorance
+of its utility to us. His companions brought five white fish, and some
+specimens of crystal, with other stones, from the mountains, which we
+purchased, and further rewarded them for their kindness in not allowing
+Augustus to return alone.</p>
+
+<p>The boats were immediately launched, and having pulled a short distance
+from the land, we set the sails, our course being directed to the outer
+point in view, to avoid the sinuosities of the coast. We passed a wide,
+though not deep bay, whose points were named after my friends Captains
+Sabine and P.P. King; and we were drawing near the next projection, when
+a compact body of ice was discovered, which was joined to the land
+ahead. At the same time a dense fog came on, that confined our view to a
+few yards; it was accompanied by a gale from the land, and heavy rain.
+We had still hopes of getting round the point, and approached the shore
+in that expectation, but found the ice so closely packed that we could
+neither advance nor effect a landing. We, therefore, pulled to seaward,
+and turned the boat's head to the eastward, to trace the outer border of
+the ice. In this situation we were exposed to great danger from the
+sudden change of wind to S.E., which raised a heavy swell, and brought
+down upon us masses of ice of a size that, tossed as they were by the
+waves, would have injured a ship. We could only catch occasional
+glimpses of the land through the fog, and were kept in the most anxious
+suspense, pulling in and out between the floating masses of ice, for
+five hours, before we could get near the shore. We landed a little to
+the west of Point Sabine, and only found sufficient space for the boats
+and tents between the bank and the water. The rain ceased for a short
+time in the evening, and during this interval, we perceived, from the
+top of the bank, that the whole space between us and the distant point,
+as well as the channel by which we had advanced to the westward, were
+now completely blocked; so that we had good reason to congratulate
+ourselves on having reached the shore in safety.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" /> <p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">[Pg 114]</a></span></p> <h2><a name="CHAPTER_IV" id="CHAPTER_IV"></a>CHAPTER IV.</h2>
+
+<p><small>Babbage River&mdash;Meet Natives at Herschel Island&mdash;Their Trade
+with the Russians, through the Western Esquimaux&mdash;Ascend Mount
+Conybeare&mdash;Boundary of the British Dominions on this
+Coast&mdash;Delayed at Icy Reef&mdash;Barter Island&mdash;Detention at
+Foggy Island&mdash;Return Reef&mdash;Limit of outward Voyage.</small></p>
+
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Although</span> it rained heavily during the night, and the wind blew strong
+off the land for some hours, there was no other change in the state of
+the ice <span class="sidenotel">Friday, 14th.</span>on the morning of the 14th, than that the smaller
+pieces were driven a short way from the beach. The day was foggy and
+rainy, but the evening fine. The bank under which we were encamped is of
+the same earthy kind as that described on the 9th, but rather higher and
+steeper. It contains much wood coal, similar to that found in the
+Mackenzie River, and at Garry's Island. The beach and the beds of the
+rivulets that flow through the ravines, consist of coarse gravel.
+Specimens of its stones, of the coal, and of the plants in flower, were
+added to the collection. We saw two marmots, and two rein-deer, which
+were too wary to allow of our getting within shot of them. Between noon
+and ten <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> the loose ice was driving in front of the encampment from
+the N.W. to S.E., and at the latter hour it stopped. We could not detect
+any difference in the height of the water, and there was a calm the
+whole time. A light breeze from S.E. after midnight, brought the masses
+close to the beach. <span class="sidenotel">Saturday, 15th.</span>On the morning of the 15th, having
+perceived that the ice was loosened from the land near the outer point,
+to which I have given the name of Kay, after some much esteemed
+relatives, we embarked, and in the course of a few hours succeeded in
+reaching it, by passing between the grounded masses of ice. On landing
+at Point Kay, we observed that our progress must again be stopped by a
+compact body of ice that was fast to the shore of a deep bay, and
+extended to our utmost view seaward; and that we could not advance
+farther than the mouth of a river which discharged its waters just round
+the point. The boats were, therefore, pulled to its entrance, and we
+encamped. Former checks had taught us to be patient, and we, therefore,
+commenced such employments as would best serve to beguile the time,
+consoling ourselves with the hope that a strong breeze would <span class='pagenum'><a
+name="Page_115" id="Page_115">[Pg 115]</a></span>soon spring up from the land and
+open a passage. Astronomical observations were obtained, the map carried
+on, and Lieutenant Back sketched the beautiful scenery afforded by a
+view of the Rocky Mountains, while I was employed in collecting
+specimens of the plants in flower. The men amused themselves in various
+ways, and Augustus went to visit an Esquimaux family that were on an
+island contiguous to our encampment.</p>
+
+<p>We now discovered that the Rocky Mountains do not form a continuous
+chain, but that they run in detached ranges at unequal distances from
+the coast. The Richardson chain commencing opposite the mouth of the
+Mackenzie, terminates within view of our present situation. Another
+range, which I have named in honour of Professor Buckland, begins on the
+western side of Phillips Bay, and extending to the boundary of our view,
+is terminated by the Conybeare Mountain.</p>
+
+<p>It gave me great pleasure to affix the name of my friend Mr. Babbage to
+the river we had discovered, and that of Mr. Phillips, Professor of
+Painting at the Royal Academy, to the bay into which its waters are
+emptied. We learned from the Esquimaux that this river, which they call
+Cook-Keaktok, or Rocky River, descends from a very distant part of the
+interior, though they are unacquainted with its course beyond the
+mountains. It appeared to us to flow between the Cupola and Barn
+mountains of the Richardson chain. There are many banks of gravel near
+its mouth, but above these obstructions the channel appeared deep, and
+to be about two miles broad. There were no rocks <i>in sit&ucirc;</i>, or
+large stones, near the encampment; the rolled pebbles on the beach were
+sandstone of red and light brown colours, greenstone, and slaty
+limestone. We gathered a fine specimen of tertiary pitch-coal.</p>
+
+<p>Augustus returned in the evening with a young Esquimaux and his wife,
+the only residents at the house he had visited. They had now quite
+recovered the panic into which they had been thrown on our first
+appearance, which was heightened by their being unable to escape from us
+owing to the want of a canoe. We made them happy by purchasing the fish
+they brought, and giving them a few presents; they continued to skip and
+laugh as long as they staid. The man informed us that judging from the
+rapid decay of the ice in the few preceding days, we might soon expect
+it to break from the land, so as to allow of our reaching Herschel
+Island, which was in view; but he represented the coast to the westward
+of the island as being low, and so generally beset with ice, that he was
+of opinion we should have great difficulty in getting along. This <span class='pagenum'><a
+name="Page_116" id="Page_116">[Pg 116]</a></span>couple had been left here to
+collect fish for the use of their companions, who were to rejoin them
+for the purpose of killing whales, as soon as the ice should break up;
+and they told us the black whales would soon come after its rupture took
+place. It would be interesting to ascertain where the whales retire in
+the winter, as they require to inhale the air frequently. Those of the
+white kind make their appearance when there are but small spaces of open
+water; and we afterwards saw two black whales in a similar situation.
+One might almost infer from these circumstances that they do not remove
+very far. Is it probable that they go, at the close of the autumn, to a
+warmer climate? or can the sea be less closely covered with ice in the
+high northern latitudes? The situation of our encampment was observed to
+be, latitude 69&deg; 19' N.; longitude 138&deg; 10&frac12;' W.;
+variation 46 &deg; 16' E.; and a rise and fall of nine inches in the
+water. The wind blew from the west during the night, and drove much ice
+near the boats; but as the masses took ground a little way from the
+shore, we were spared the trouble of removing the boats higher up the
+beach.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenotel">Sunday, 16th.</span>We were favoured in the forenoon of the 16th by a strong
+breeze from the land, which, in the course of a few hours, drove away
+many of these pieces towards Point Kay, and opened a passage for the
+boats. We immediately embarked to sail over to the western side of
+Phillips Bay, concluding, from the motion of the ice, that it must now
+be detached from that shore. On reaching it, we had the pleasure of
+finding an open channel close to the beach, although the entrance was
+barred by a stream of ice lying aground on a reef. The boats being
+forced by poles over this obstruction, we stood under sail along the
+coast to about five miles beyond Point Stokes; but there we were again
+compelled by the closeness of the ice to stop, and from the top of a
+sand-hill we could not discover any water in the direction of our
+course. The tents were therefore pitched, and the boats unloaded, and
+hauled on the beach. Heavy rain came on in the evening, by which we
+indulged the hope that the ice might be loosened. We were encamped on a
+low bank of gravel which runs along the base of a chain of sand-hills
+about one hundred and fifty feet high, and forms the coast line. The
+bank was covered with drift timber, and is the site of a deserted
+Esquimaux village. The snow still remaining in the ravines was tinged
+with light red spots. <span class="sidenotel">Monday, 17th.</span>The night was calm, and the ice
+remained in the same fixed state until six in the morning of the 17th,
+when, perceiving the pieces in the offing to be in motion we launched
+the boats, and by breaking our way at <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">[Pg 117]</a></span>first with hatchets, and
+then forcing with the poles through other streams of ice, we contrived
+to reach some lanes of water, along which we navigated for four hours. A
+strong breeze springing up from seaward, caused the ice to close so fast
+upon the boat, that we were obliged to put again to the shore, and land
+on a low bank, similar to that on which we had rested the night before.
+It was intersected, however, by many pools and channels of water, which
+cut off our communication with the land. As we could not obtain, from
+our present station, any satisfactory view of the state of the ice to
+the westward, I despatched Duncan and Augustus to take a survey of it
+from Point Catton, while Lieutenant Back and I made some astronomical
+observations. They returned after an absence of two hours, and reported
+that there was water near Herschel Island, and a channel in the offing
+that appeared to lead to it. We, therefore, embarked; and by pushing the
+boats between the masses that lay aground, for some distance, we
+succeeded in reaching open water at the entrance of the strait which
+lies between the island and the main, and through which the loose pieces
+of ice were driving fast to the westward. Having now the benefit of a
+strong favourable breeze, we were enabled to keep clear of them, and
+made good progress. Arriving opposite the S.E. end of Herschel Island,
+we perceived a large herd of rein-deer just taking the water, and on
+approaching the shore to get within shot, discovered three Esquimaux in
+pursuit. These men stood gazing at the boats for some minutes, and after
+a short consultation, we observed them to change the heads of their
+arrows, and prepare their bows. They then walked along the south shore,
+parallel to our course, for the purpose, as we soon found, of rejoining
+their wives. We reached the place at which the ladies were before them,
+and though invited to land, we were not able, on account of the surf.
+Augustus was desired to assure them of our friendship, and of our
+intention to stop at the first sheltered spot, to which they and their
+husbands might come to receive a present. More than this our little
+friend could not be prevailed upon to communicate, because they were
+"old wives;" and it was evident that he considered any further
+conversation with women to be beneath his dignity. On passing round the
+point we discovered that the ice was closely packed to leeward, and such
+a heavy swell setting upon it, that it was unsafe to proceed. We,
+therefore, encamped, and Augustus set off immediately to introduce
+himself to the Esquimaux. The tents were scarcely pitched, and the
+sentinels placed, before he returned, accompanied by twelve men and
+women, each bringing a piece of dried meat, or fish, to present to us.
+We learned <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">[Pg 118]</a></span>from them that the boats, when at a distance, had
+been taken for pieces of ice; but when we drew near enough for them to
+distinguish the crews, and they perceived them clothed differently from
+any men they had seen, they became alarmed, and made ready their arrows,
+as we had observed. On receiving some presents, they raised a loud
+halloo, which brought five or six others from an adjoining island, and
+in the evening there was a further addition to the party of some young
+men, who had been hunting, and who afterwards sent their wives to bring
+us a part of the spoils of their chase. They remained near the tents the
+greater part of the night, and testified their delight by dancing and
+singing. An old woman, whose hair was silvered by age, made a prominent
+figure in these exhibitions.</p>
+
+<p>The information we obtained from them confirmed that which we had
+received from the last party, namely, that they procure the iron,
+knives, and beads, through two channels, but principally from a party of
+Esquimaux who reside a great distance to the westward, and to meet whom
+they send their young men every spring with furs, seal-skins, and oil,
+to exchange for those articles; and also from the Indians, who come
+every year from the interior to trade with them by a river that was
+directly opposite our encampment; which I have, therefore, named the
+Mountain Indian River. These Indians leave their families and canoes at
+two days' march from the mouth of the river, and the men come alone,
+bringing no more goods than they intend to barter. They were represented
+to be tall stout men, clothed in deer-skins, and speaking a language
+very dissimilar to their own. They also said that the Esquimaux to the
+westward, speak a dialect so different from theirs, that at the first
+opening of the communication, which was so recent as to be within the
+memory of two of our present companions, they had great difficulty in
+understanding them. Several quarrels took place at their first meetings,
+in consequence of the western party attempting to steal; but latterly
+there has been a good understanding between them, and the exchanges have
+been fairly made.</p>
+
+<p>Our visitors did not know from what people either the Indians or the
+Esquimaux obtained the goods, but they supposed from some "Kabloonacht,"
+(white people,) who reside far to the west. As the articles we saw were
+not of British manufacture, and were very unlike those sold by the
+Hudson's Bay Company to the Indians, it cannot be doubted that they are
+furnished by the Russian Fur Traders, who receive in return for them all
+the furs collected on this northern coast. Part of the Russian iron-work
+is conveyed to the Esquimaux dwelling on the coast east of the
+Mackenzie. The western Esquimaux use <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">[Pg 119]</a></span>tobacco, and some of our
+visitors had smoked it, but thought the flavour very disagreeable. Until
+I was aware of their being acquainted with the use of it, I prohibited
+my men from smoking in their presence, and afterwards from offering
+their pipes to the Esquimaux at any time. At the conclusion of this
+conference, our visitors assured us, that having now become acquainted
+with white people, and being conscious that the trade with them would be
+beneficial, they would gladly encourage a further intercourse, and do
+all in their power to prevent future visitors from having such a
+reception as we had on our arrival in these seas. We learned that this
+island, which has been distinguished by the name of Herschel, is much
+frequented by the natives at this season of the year, as it abounds with
+deer, and its surrounding waters afford plenty of fish. It is composed
+of black earth, rises, in its highest point, to about one hundred feet,
+and at the time of our visit was covered with verdure. The strait
+between it and the main shore, is the only place that we had seen, since
+quitting the Mackenzie, in which a ship could find shelter; but even
+this channel is much interrupted by shoals. Latitude 69&deg; 33&frac12;'
+N.; longitude 139&deg; 3' W.; were observed at the encampment.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenote">Tuesday, 18th.</span>On the morning of the 18th the fog was so thick that we
+could not see beyond the beach. It dispersed about noon, and we
+discovered that there was a channel of open water near the main shore,
+though in the centre of the strait the ice was heavy, and driving
+rapidly to the north-west. We embarked at once, in the expectation of
+being able to penetrate between the drift ice and the land, but the
+attempt was frustrated by the shallowness of the water; and the fog
+again spreading as thick as before, we landed on a sand-bank. We were
+soon visited by another party of the Esquimaux, who brought deer's meat
+for sale; and although the whole quantity did not amount to a deer, we
+had to purchase it in small pieces. This practice of dividing the meat
+among the party, we found to prevail throughout the voyage; and they
+avowed as their reason for it, the desire that every one might obtain a
+share of the good things we distributed. One of the men drew on the sand
+a sketch of the coast to the westward, as far as he was acquainted with
+it; from which it appeared that there was a line of reefs in front of
+the coast the whole way; the water being deep on the outside of them,
+but on the inside too shallow even for their oomiaks to float. We
+subsequently found that his knowledge of the coast did not extend beyond
+a few days' march.</p>
+
+<p>The atmosphere becoming more clear about two <span class="smcap">p.m.</span>, we <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">[Pg 120]</a></span>again
+embarked, and endeavoured to get to seaward. The boats, however, soon
+grounded; and finding all our attempts to push through any of the
+channels between the reefs ineffectual, we pulled back close to Herschel
+Island. Following, then, the course of the drift ice, we passed near to
+its south-west point, which was found to be the only deep passage
+through the strait. We afterwards entered into a fine sheet of open
+water, the main body of the ice being about half a mile to seaward, and
+only a few bergs lying aground in the direction of our course. The outer
+parts of the island appeared closely beset with it. At the end of five
+miles we discerned another large party of Esquimaux, encamped on a reef;
+they waved their jackets as signals for us to land, which we declined
+doing, as we perceived the water to be shallow between us and them. They
+ran along the beach as far as the end of the reef, tempting us by
+holding up meat. Only two of the party were provided with canoes, and
+they followed us to a bluff point of the main shore, on which we landed.
+These proved to be persons whom we had seen at Herschel Island, and who
+had visited the Esquimaux in this quarter on purpose to make them
+acquainted with our arrival. We were happy to learn from them that we
+should not see any more of their countrymen for some time, because,
+while surrounded by them, the necessity of closely watching their
+motions, prevented us from paying due attention to other objects.
+Resuming our voyage, we pulled along the outer border of a gravel reef,
+about two hundred yards broad, that runs parallel to, and about half a
+mile from, the coast, having a line of drift ice on the outside of us.
+The wind being contrary, and the evening cold, temperature 40&deg;, we
+encamped on the reef at eight <span class="smcap">p.m.</span>, where we found plenty of drift
+timber; the water was brackish. The distance travelled this day was
+eight miles and a half. The main shore opposite the encampment was low
+to a great distance from the coast; it then appeared to ascend gradually
+to the base of the Buckland chain of mountains.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenotel">Wednesday, 19th.</span>The following morning being calm, and very fine, the
+boats were launched at three <span class="smcap">a.m.</span>, and we set off in high spirits; but
+after pulling three miles, we perceived the channel of open water
+becoming narrow, and the pieces of ice heavier than any we had before
+seen, some of them being aground in three fathoms water. At six <span class="smcap">a.m.</span>,
+after having gone five miles and a half, we were stopped by the ice
+which adhered to the reef, and was unbroken to seaward. Imagining we saw
+water at some distance beyond this barrier, we were induced to drag the
+boats across the reef, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">[Pg 121]</a></span>and launch them into the channel on the
+inside, in the hope of reaching it. This proved to be a bay, at the head
+of which we arrived in a short time. It was then discovered that a fog
+hanging over the ice had been mistaken for water. The boats were,
+therefore, reconveyed across the reef, the tents pitched, and we had to
+draw largely on our nearly exhausted stock of patience, as we
+contemplated the dreary view of this compact icy field. A herd of
+rein-deer appeared very opportunely to afford some employment, and most
+of the men were despatched on the chase, but only one was successful.
+The following observations were obtained:&mdash;Latitude 69&deg; 36' N.;
+longitude 139&deg; 42' W.; variation 46&deg; 13' E. Being now abreast of
+Mount Conybeare, Lieutenant Back and I were on the point of setting out
+to visit its summit, when we were stopped by a very dense fog that
+accompanied a fresh breeze from the N.W., followed by heavy rain. <span
+class="sidenote">Thursday, 20th.</span>The weather continued bad, until ten the
+following morning; the ice near the beach was broken into smaller
+pieces, but as yet too closely packed for our proceeding. The water
+being brackish in front of the reef, we despatched two men to bring some
+from the pools at a distance inland, which was found to have the same
+taste; from this circumstance, as well as from the piles of drift wood,
+thrown up far from the coast, one may infer that the sea occasionally
+washes over this low shore. The ice broken off from large masses, and
+permitted to drain before it was melted, did not furnish us with better
+water. A couple of pin-tailed ducks were shot, the only pair seen; the
+black kind were more numerous, but were not fired at, as they are
+fishing ducks, and, therefore, not good to eat. We also saw a few geese
+and swans.</p>
+
+<p>The atmosphere was calm, and perfectly clear, on the morning of the
+21st; <span class="sidenote">Friday, 21st.</span>and as there was not any change in the position of
+the ice, I visited Mount Conybeare, accompanied by Duncan and Stewart.
+Though its distance was not more than twelve miles from the coast, the
+journey proved to be very fatiguing, owing to the swampiness of the
+ground between the mountain and the sea. We had also the discomfort of
+being tormented the whole way by myriads of musquitoes. The plain was
+intersected by a winding river, about forty yards broad, which we
+forded, and on its western side found a thicket of willows, none of
+which were above seven inches in circumference, and only five or six
+feet high. At the foot of the mountain were three parallel platforms, or
+terraces, whose heights we estimated at fifty, eighty, and one hundred
+and thirty feet; composed of transition slate, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">[Pg 122]</a></span>the stone of the
+lowest being of the closest texture. We found the task of climbing above
+the upper terraces difficult, in consequence of the looseness of the
+stones, which did not afford a firm footing, but after an hour's labour,
+we succeeded in reaching the top. The mountain is also composed of
+slate, but so much weathered near the summit, as to appear a mere
+collection of stones. Its height above the sea we estimated at eight
+hundred feet. Two or three hardy plants were in flower, at the highest
+elevation, which we gathered, though they were of the same kind that had
+been collected in the lower lands; and during the whole march we did not
+meet with any plant different from the specimens we had already
+obtained. On arriving at the top of the mountain, we were refreshed by a
+strong south wind, which we fondly hoped might reach to the coast, and
+be of service, by driving the ice from the land. This hope, however,
+lasted only a few minutes; for, on casting our eyes to seaward, there
+appeared no open water into which it could be moved, except near
+Herschel Island. The view into the interior possessed the charm of
+novelty, and attracted particular regard. We commanded a prospect over
+three ranges of mountains, lying parallel to the Buckland chain, but of
+less altitude. The view was bounded by a fourth range of high-peaked
+mountains, for the most part covered with snow. This distant range was
+afterwards distinguished by the name of the British Chain; and the
+mountains at its extremities were named in honour of the then Chancellor
+of the Exchequer, and President of the Board of Trade&mdash;the Right
+Honourable Mr. Robinson, now Lord Goderich, and Mr. Huskisson. When seen
+from the coast, the mountains of the Buckland chain appeared to form a
+continuous line, extending from N.W. by N., to S.E. by S.; but from our
+present situation we discovered that they were separated from each other
+by a deep valley, and a rivulet, and that their longest direction was
+N.N.E. and S.S.W. The same order prevailed in the three ranges behind
+the Buckland chain; and the highest of their mountains, like Mount
+Conybeare, were round and naked at the top; the vallies between them
+were grassy. We erected a pile of stones of sufficient height to be seen
+from the sea, and deposited underneath it a note, containing the
+latitude, longitude, and some particulars relative to the Expedition.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenotel">Saturday, 22nd.</span>The 22nd was a calm sultry day, the temperature varying
+between 58&deg; and 63&deg;, and we were tormented by musquitoes. The
+ice remained very close to the beach. Impatient of our long detention,
+we gladly <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">[Pg 123]</a></span><span class="sidenote">Sunday, 23rd.</span>availed ourselves, at three in the
+morning of the 23rd, of a small opening in the ice, to launch the boats,
+and push them forward as far as we could get them. We thus succeeded in
+reaching a lane of water, through which we made tolerable progress,
+though after two hours and a half of exertion, we were gradually hemmed
+in, and forced again to encamp at the mouth of a small stream westward
+of Sir Pulteney Malcolm River. We had, however, the satisfaction of
+finding, by the observations, that we had gained ten miles. Latitude
+69&deg; 36' N.; longitude 140&deg; 12' W.; variation 45&deg; 6' E. The
+temperature of the water at the surface a quarter of a mile from the
+shore was 40&deg;, that of the air being 49&deg;. The water was two
+fathoms deep, ten yards from the beach.</p>
+
+<p>The coast here was about fifteen feet high; and from the top of the bank
+a level plain extended to the base of the mountains, which, though very
+swampy, was covered with verdure. At this place we first found boulder
+stones, which were deeply seated in the gravel of the beach. They
+consisted of greenstone, sandstone, and limestone; the first mentioned
+being the largest, and the last the most numerous. Having seen several
+fish leaping in the river, a net was set across its mouth, though
+without success, owing to the meshes being too large. Two men were
+despatched to examine the state of the ice; and on their return from a
+walk of several miles, they reported that, with the exception of a small
+spot close to the beach, it was quite compact. They had observed, about
+two miles from the encampment, stumps of drift wood fixed in the ground
+at certain distances, extending from the coast across the plain towards
+the Rocky Mountains, in the direction of two piles of stones, which were
+erected on the top of the latter. We were at a loss to conjecture what
+motive the Esquimaux could have had for taking so much trouble, unless
+these posts were intended to serve as decoys for the rein-deer. The
+party assembled at divine service in the evening, as had been our
+practice every Sunday.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenote">Monday, 24th.</span>On the morning of the 24th we were able to make a further
+advance of two miles and three quarters, by forcing the boats between
+the masses of ice, as far as the debouche of another rivulet, in
+latitude 69&deg; 36&frac12;' N., and longitude 140&deg; 19&frac12;' W.
+Under any other circumstance than that of being beset by ice, the
+beautifully calm and clear weather we then had would have been
+delightful; but as our hope of being released rested solely on a strong
+wind, we never ceased to long for its occurrence. A breeze would have
+been, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">[Pg 124]</a></span>at any rate, beneficial in driving away the musquitoes,
+which were so numerous as to prevent any enjoyment of the open air, and
+to keep us confined to a tent filled with smoke, the only remedy against
+their annoyance.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenotel">Tuesday, 25th.</span>We were still detained the two following days, and the
+only things we saw were a grey wolf, some seals, and some ducks. More
+tedious hours than those passed by us in the present situation, cannot
+well be imagined. After the astronomical observations had been obtained
+and worked, the survey brought up, a sketch made of the encampment, and
+specimens of the plants and stones in the vicinity collected, there was,
+literally, nothing to do. The anxiety which was inseparable from such an
+enterprize as ours, at such an advanced period of the season, left but
+little disposition to read, even if there had been a greater choice of
+books in our travelling library, and still less composure to invent
+amusement. Even had the musquitoes been less tormenting, the swampiness
+of the ground, in which we sank ankle deep at every step, deprived us of
+the pleasure of walking. A visit to the Rocky Mountains was often talked
+of, but they were now at a distance of two days' journey, and we dared
+not to be absent from the boats so long, lest the ice, in its fickle
+movements, should open for a short time. Notwithstanding the closeness
+of the ice, we perceived a regular rise and fall of the water, though it
+amounted only to seven inches, except on the night of the 24th, when the
+rise was two feet; but the direction of the flood was not yet
+ascertained. We found a greater proportion of birch-wood, mixed with the
+drift timber to the westward of the Babbage than we had done before;
+between the Mackenzie and that river it had been so scarce, that we had
+to draw upon our store of bark to light the fires. Some lunar
+observations were obtained in the afternoon of the 25th, and their
+results assured us that the chronometers were going steadily. At
+midnight we were visited by a strong S.W. breeze, accompanied by rain,
+thunder, and lightning. This weather was succeeded by calm, and a fog
+that continued throughout the next day, and confined our view to a few
+yards. Temperature from 41&deg; to 43&deg;. <span class="sidenotel">Wednesday, 26th.</span>On the
+atmosphere becoming clear about nine in the evening of the 26th, we
+discovered a lane of water, and immediately embarking, we pulled, for
+an hour, without experiencing much interruption from the ice. A fresh
+breeze then sprung up from the N.W., which brought with it a very dense
+fog, and likewise caused the ice to close so fast upon us, that we were
+compelled to hasten to the shore. We had just landed, when the <span class='pagenum'><a
+name="Page_125" id="Page_125">[Pg 125]</a></span>channel was completely closed. We
+encamped on the western side of a river about two hundred yards broad,
+which, at the request of Lieutenant Back, was named after Mr. Backhouse,
+one of the under Secretaries of State for Foreign Affairs. It appeared
+that the water that flowed from this channel had caused the opening by
+which we had travelled from our last resting-place; for beyond it, the
+ice was closely packed.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenote">Thursday, 27th.</span>Some heavy rain fell in the night, and the morning of the
+27th was foggy; but the sun, about noon, having dispersed the fog, we
+discovered an open channel about half a mile from the shore. No time was
+lost in pushing the boats into it. By following its course to the end,
+and breaking our way through some streams of ice, we were brought, at
+the end of eight miles, to the mouth of a wide river that flows from the
+British range of mountains. This being the most westerly river in the
+British dominions on this coast, and near the line of demarcation
+between Great Britain and Russia, I named it the Clarence, in honour of
+His Royal Highness the Lord High Admiral. Under a pile of drift timber
+which we erected on the most elevated point of the coast near its mouth,
+was deposited a tin box, containing a royal silver medal, with an
+account of the proceedings of the Expedition; and the union flag was
+hoisted under three hearty cheers, the only salute that we could afford.
+This ceremony did not detain us longer than half an hour; when we
+launched into a larger space of open water than we had seen since the
+9th of the month. This circumstance, together with the appearance of
+several seals, and the water becoming more salt, created a hope that we
+should soon enter upon a brisker navigation. But this too sanguine
+expectation was dispelled in little more than an hour, by a close and
+heavy field of ice, which obliged us to pull to the shore. The tent was
+pitched under a steep bank of mud, in latitude 69&deg; 38' N.; longitude
+140&deg; 46' W. The soundings this day varied from two to ten fathoms;
+and the temperature of the air from 37&deg; to 45&deg;. <span class="sidenote">Friday, 28th.</span>The
+ice having opened near the beach by noon of the 28th, so as to admit the
+boats, we embarked, to try if we could not advance by thrusting the
+masses aside with poles. After spending several hours in this labour,
+and gaining only two miles, further exertion became ineffectual, owing
+to the ice being closely packed, and many of the pieces from fifteen to
+twenty feet high, lying aground. We had however, gained by the removal
+the comforts of dry ground, and good water, which had been wanting at
+the last encampment. Among the drift timber on the beach was a pine
+tree, seven feet and a quarter <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">[Pg 126]</a></span>in girth, by thirty-six long. We
+had previously seen several, little inferior in size. The temperature
+this day varied from 39&deg; to 48&deg;. We had observed, for the
+preceding fortnight, that the musquitoes assailed us as soon as the
+temperature rose to 45&deg;, and that they retired quickly on its
+descending below that height.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenotel">Saturday, 29th.</span>The morning of the 29th opened with heavy rain and fog;
+the precursors of a strong gale from E.N.E., which brought back the ice
+we had already passed, and closely packed it along the beach, but we
+could not perceive that the wind had the slightest effect on the main
+body at a distance from the shore. This was a very cold, comfortless
+day, the temperature between 38&deg; and 42&deg;. <span class="sidenotel">Sunday, 30th.</span>The
+following morning a brilliant sun contributed with the gale to the
+dispersion of the mist which had, for some days past, overhung the Rocky
+Mountains, and we had the gratification of seeing, for the first time,
+the whole length of the British Chain of Mountains, which are more
+peaked and irregular in their outline, and more picturesque than those
+of the Buckland Range. The following observations were obtained
+here:&mdash;Latitude 69&deg; 38' N.; longitude 140&deg; 51' W.;
+variation 45&deg; 43' E.; dip 83' 27'. In exploring the bed of a rivulet
+we found several pieces of quartz, containing pyrites of a very bright
+colour, which so much attracted the attention of the crews, that they
+spent several hours in examining every stone, expecting to have their
+labour rewarded by the discovery of some precious metal.</p>
+
+<p>The gale having abated in the evening, we quickly loaded the boats, and
+pulled them into a lane of water that we had observed about half a mile
+from the shore. This, however, extended only a short way to the west,
+and at the end of a mile and a half inclined towards the beach, the ice
+beyond it being closely packed. Before the boats could be brought to the
+land, they received several heavy blows in passing through narrow
+channels, and over tongues of grounded ice. I walked to the extreme
+point that we had in view from the tent, and was rejoiced by the sight
+of a large space of water in the direction of our course; but up to the
+point the ice was still compact, and heavy. On my way I passed another
+Esquimaux village, where there were marks of recent visitors.</p>
+
+<p>We witnessed the setting of the sun at eleven <span class="smcap">p.m.</span>; an unwelcome sight,
+which the gloomy weather had, till then, spared us; for it forced upon
+our minds the conviction that the favourable season for our operations
+was fast passing away, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">[Pg 127]</a></span>though we had, as yet, made so little
+progress. This was not the only uncomfortable circumstance that attended
+us this evening. Our friend Augustus was seized with a shivering fit, in
+consequence of having imprudently rushed, when in full perspiration,
+into a lake of cold water, to drag out a rein-deer which he had killed.
+He was unable to walk on coming out of the water, and the consequence
+would have been more serious had it not been for the kindness of his
+companion, Wilson, who deprived himself of his flannels and waistcoat to
+clothe him. On their arrival at the tent, Augustus was put between
+blankets, and provided with warm chocolate, and the only inconvenience
+that he felt next morning was pain in his limbs.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenote">Monday, 31st.</span>We had several showers of rain during the night, with a
+steady S.W. breeze, and in the morning of the 31st were delighted by
+perceiving the ice loosening and driving off the land. We were afloat in
+a few minutes, and enjoyed the novelty of pulling through an
+uninterrupted channel as far as Point Demarcation, which has been so
+named from its being situated in longitude 141&deg; W., the boundary
+between the British and Russian dominions on the northern coast of
+America. This point seems to be much resorted to by the Esquimaux, as we
+found here many winter houses, and four large stages. On the latter were
+deposited several bundles of seal and deer skins, and several pair of
+snow-shoes. The snow-shoes were netted with cords of deer-skin, and were
+shaped like those used by the Indians near the Mackenzie. A favourable
+breeze now sprang up; and having ascertained, by mounting one of the
+Esquimaux stages, that there was still a channel of open water between a
+low island and the main shore, we set sail to follow its course. At the
+end of three miles we found the water gradually to decrease from three
+fathoms to as many feet, and shortly afterwards the boats repeatedly
+took the ground. In this situation we were enveloped by a thick fog,
+which limited our view to a few yards. We, therefore, dragged the boats
+to the land, until we could see our way; this did not happen before ten
+in the evening, when it was discovered from the summit of an eminence,
+about two miles distant, that though the channel was of some extent, it
+was very shallow, and seemed to be barred by ice to the westward. We
+also ascertained that it was bounded to the seaward by a long reef. The
+night proved very stormy, and we were but scantily supplied with drift
+wood.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenote">August 1st.</span>Though the morning of the 1st of August commenced with a
+heavy gale from E.N.E., and very foggy weather, we proceeded to the
+reef, after much fatigue in <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">[Pg 128]</a></span>dragging the boats over the flats,
+under the supposition that our best chance of getting forward would be
+by passing on the outside of it. But there finding heavy ice lying
+aground, and so closely packed as to preclude the possibility of putting
+the boats into the water, it was determined to examine the channel by
+walking along the shore of the reef. An outlet to the sea was
+discovered, but the channel was so flat that gulls were, in most parts,
+wading across; and there was, therefore, no other course than to await
+the separation of the ice from the reef. On the dispersion of the fog in
+the afternoon, we perceived that some of the masses of ice were from
+twenty to thirty feet high; and we derived little comfort from
+beholding, from the top of one of them, an unbroken surface of ice to
+seaward.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenotel">Wednesday, 2nd.</span>The gale blew without the least abatement throughout the
+night, and until noon of the 2nd, when it terminated in a violent gust,
+which overthrew the tents. The field of ice was broken in the offing,
+and the pieces put in motion; and in the evening there appeared a large
+space of open water, but we could not take advantage of these favourable
+circumstances, in consequence of the ice still closely besetting the
+reef. We remarked large heaps of gravel, fifteen feet above the surface
+of the reef, on the largest iceberg, which must have been caused by the
+pressure of the ice; and from the top of this berg we had the
+satisfaction of discovering that a large herd of rein-deer were marching
+in line towards the opposite side of the channel. Our party was
+instantly on the alert, and the best hunters were sent in the Reliance
+in chase of them. The boat grounded about midway across, and the eager
+sportsmen jumped overboard and hastened to the shore; but such was their
+want of skill, that only three fawns were killed, out of a herd of three
+or four hundred. The supply, however, was sufficient for our present
+use, and the circumstances of the chase afforded amusing conversation
+for the evening. The astronomical observations place our encampment in
+latitude 69&deg; 43' N.; longitude 141&deg; 30' W. The temperature this
+day varied from 40&deg; to 42&deg;.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenotel">Thursday, 3rd.</span>On the morning of the 3rd a strong breeze set in from the
+east, which we were rejoiced to find caused a higher flood in the
+channel than we had yet seen, and the hope of effecting a passage by its
+course was revived; as the ice was still fast to the reef, and likely to
+continue so, it was considered better to occupy ourselves in dragging
+the boats through the mud, than to continue longer in this irksome <span class='pagenum'><a
+name="Page_129" id="Page_129">[Pg 129]</a></span>spot, where the wood was already
+scarce, and the water indifferent. The boats, therefore, proceeded with
+four men in each, while the rest of the crew walked along the shore, and
+rendered assistance wherever it was necessary, to drag them over the
+shallow parts. After four hours' labour, we reached the eastern part of
+the bay, which I have had the pleasure of naming after my friend Captain
+Beaufort, R.N., and which was then covered with ice. We had also the
+happiness of finding a channel that led to seaward, which enabled us to
+get on the outside of the reef; but as we pushed as close as we could to
+the border of the packed ice, our situation, for the next four hours,
+was attended with no little anxiety. The appearance of the clouds
+bespoke the return of fog, and we were sailing with a strong breeze
+through narrow channels, between heavy pieces of drift ice, on the
+outside of a chain of reefs that stretched across Beaufort Bay, which we
+knew could not be approached within a mile, owing to the shallowness of
+the water.</p>
+
+<p>Beyond Point Humphrys, the water being deep close to the coast, we
+travelled in more security, though the ice was less open than before. We
+halted to sup on a gravel reef that extends from the main shore to Point
+Griffin, having run twenty-eight miles, the greatest distance we had
+made on one day since our departure from the Mackenzie.</p>
+
+<p>A black whale, and several seals, having been seen just before we
+landed, the water now decidedly salt, and the ice driving with great
+rapidity to the westward, were circumstances that we hailed with
+heartfelt joy; as affording the prospect of getting speedily forward,
+and in the evening we lost sight of Mount Conybeare, which had been
+visible since the 9th of July. There were several huts on the reef, and
+one large tent, capable of holding forty persons, which appeared to have
+been lately occupied, besides eighteen sledges, that we supposed to have
+been left by the men who had gone from Herschel Island, to exchange
+their furs with the western Esquimaux. Among the baggage we found a
+spoon, made out of the musk ox horn, like those used by the Canadian
+voyagers. At six this evening we passed the termination of the British
+Chain of Mountains, and had now arrived opposite the commencement of
+another range, which I named after the late Count Romanzoff, Chancellor
+of the Russian Empire, as a tribute of respect to the memory of that
+distinguished patron and promoter of discovery and science.</p>
+
+<p>Having taken the precaution of supplying ourselves with fresh water, we
+quitted the reef, to proceed on our voyage un<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">[Pg 130]</a></span>der sail, but
+shortly afterwards arrived at very heavy ice, apparently packed. We
+found, however, a narrow passage, and by forcing the boats through it,
+reached a more open channel, where the oars could be used. This extended
+along a reef, so that we could pursue our course with safety, being
+ready to land in the event of the ice drifting upon us. <span class="sidenotel">Friday, 4th.</span>The
+sun set this evening at half past ten <span class="smcap">p.m.</span>; and the temperature of the
+air during its disappearance was 38&deg;. Between the reefs and the low
+main land the water was entirely free from ice. After passing Point Sir
+Henry Martin, we were tempted, by the appearance of a bay, to steer
+within the reefs, as we could then use the sails, and make a more direct
+course than by winding among the ice. The water proved so shallow that
+the boats took the ground, at the distance of three miles from the
+shore, which caused us to alter our plan, and follow the line of drift
+ice near the border of the pack. The breeze died away; and in proceeding
+under oars beyond Point Manning, we descried a collection of tents
+planted on a low island, with many oomiaks, kaiyacks, and dogs around
+them. The Esquimaux being fast asleep, Augustus was desired to hail
+them, and after two or three loud calls, a female appeared in a state of
+nudity; after a few seconds she called out to her husband, who awoke at
+the first sound of her voice, and shouting out that strangers were close
+at hand, the whole space between the tents and the water was, in a few
+minutes, covered with armed, though naked, people. Their consternation
+on being thus suddenly roused by strangers, of whose existence they had
+never heard, can be better imagined than described. We drew near the
+shore, to let Augustus inform them who we were, and of the purpose of
+our visit, which produced a burst of acclamation, and an immediate
+invitation to land. This we declined doing, having counted fifty-four
+grown persons, and knowing that we had not the means of furnishing such
+a number with the articles they might crave. Besides, it was evident,
+from their hurried manner, that they were in a state of high excitement,
+and might then, perhaps, have been disposed to seize upon everything
+within their grasp. Four of the kaiyacks being launched, after we had
+receded to a proper distance from the island, we allowed them to come
+alongside; and presents were given to the men. We then learned that
+these were the people who had conveyed the furs, &amp;c., from Herschel
+Island, and that the exchange with the Esquimaux had been made at the
+place where they were encamped, only a few days before. They intended
+to commence their return this day to Herschel Island, where the iron and
+beads would <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">[Pg 131]</a></span>be distributed among their relations, according to
+the furs, &amp;c. they had supplied. The Esquimaux saluted us at parting
+with many vociferations of <i>teyma</i>, and we continued our journey for
+five miles; at the end of which, the wind setting in strongly against
+us, we landed at the western part of Barter Island, to refresh the crew.
+We then found that a rapid tide was running to the eastward, and at
+eleven the water had risen one foot, from the time of our landing. The
+tents were scarcely pitched before we saw two kaiyacks coming towards us
+from the westward, and the man in the headmost accepted, without
+hesitation, our invitation to land. His companion was asleep, and his
+canoe was driving with the wind and tide; but when awaked by the voice
+of Augustus, he also came. These were young men returning from hunting
+to the tents that we had passed; and being much fatigued, they made but
+a short stay. The only information collected from them was, that the
+coast before us was similar to that along which we had been travelling,
+and that the ice was broken from the shore. The latitude 70&deg; 5' N.;
+longitude 143&deg; 55' W.; variation 45&deg; 36' E.; were observed.</p>
+
+<p>As soon as the latitude had been obtained, we embarked, favoured by wind
+and tide, to cross the bay, which has been named in honour of the
+Marquess Camden. The water was of a seagreen colour, perfectly salt, and
+from three to five fathoms deep; the temperature 35&deg; at the surface,
+that of the air, 43&deg;. The day was very clear, and exposed to our
+view the outline of the Romanzoff chain of Mountains, whose lofty peaks
+were covered with snow. At the end of ten miles we observed four tents
+planted on a reef, and several women standing about them, who made many
+signs for us to land, but the surf was rolling too heavily on the beach.
+As we proceeded, their husbands were perceived on the main shore, in
+pursuit of a large herd of rein-deer, which they seemed to be
+surrounding so as to drive the deer into the water, where they would
+probably spear them to more advantage.</p>
+
+<p>Continuing along the shore beyond the reef at the distance of two miles
+from the land, the boats touched the ground several times, which made us
+conclude we were steering into a bay, though its outline could not be
+seen. The wind changed at the time to the north, blew strong, and
+raised a heavy swell, which induced us to haul out to seaward, and we
+soon afterwards discovered an island, which we just reached under sail.
+From its summit we perceived a chain of low reefs, extending from its
+northern point for several miles to the westward, on which the wind was
+then blowing, and bringing down the drift <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132">[Pg 132]</a></span>ice. We were,
+therefore, compelled to halt, and await more moderate weather. This
+island, like the projecting points of the main shore, is a mere deposit
+of earthly mud, covered with verdure, about twenty or twenty-five feet
+high. There was another island adjoining, which seemed to be a
+collection of boulder stones; from whence it was named.</p>
+
+<p>The ice appeared closely packed to the seaward; nearer to the island
+were icebergs aground, and within these, streams of loose pieces driving
+towards the reefs. In the hurry of embarkation from Barter Island, one
+of the crew of the Reliance left his gun and ammunition, which we
+regretted the more, from being apprehensive that an accident might
+happen to the natives. The circumstance was not known before the boats
+were a great distance from the island, or we should have put back to
+have recovered it.</p>
+
+<p>A very thick fog came on in the evening. This weather, however, did not
+prevent our receiving a visit from two of the natives about midnight,
+who told Augustus that, having scented the smoke of a fire from the
+opposite side of the bay, they had come to ascertain who had made it.
+They were armed with bows and arrows, and advanced towards the tent
+without any alarm. We found that they had been hunting, with several
+other men, at the foot of the Romanzoff Mountains, and that they were
+now going to rejoin their friends at Barter Island, with the fruits of a
+successful chase. Their knowledge of the coast terminated at this place,
+which is as far to the westward as any of the party from Herschel Island
+travel.</p>
+
+<p>The western Esquimaux had parted from them seven nights before, but they
+supposed that they had not made much progress, as their oomiaks were
+heavily laden. Those people had informed them that the coast to the
+westward was low, and fronted by reefs, like that we had already passed;
+the water also was very shallow; they therefore recommended that we
+should keep on the outside of every reef. Our visitors had no sooner
+received their presents than they raised a loud cry, which was intended
+to bring their friends. On the dispersion of the fog at the time, we
+discovered an oomiak, filled with people paddling, and some other men
+wading towards us. <span class="sidenotel">Saturday, 5th.</span>It being calm, and the swell having
+abated, we did not wait for their arrival, but embarked at one in the
+morning of the 5th, and pursued our course to the westward, keeping on
+the outside of the reefs. The water, however, was very shallow, even at
+the distance of two miles, and we were much teased by the boats
+repeatedly touching the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_133" id="Page_133">[Pg 133]</a></span>ground. This was particularly the case
+when we arrived opposite to the large river, which was named in honour
+of the late Mr. Canning, where we found the water perfectly fresh, three
+miles from the land. The ice being more loose abreast of this river, we
+pulled out to seaward into deep water. The land was then hidden from our
+view by the haze, though not more than four miles distant, and our
+course was directed by the masses of ice lying aground; but at the end
+of three miles, our further progress was stopped at six <span class="smcap">a.m.</span>, by the ice
+being closely packed on the outer border of a reef, in latitude 70&deg;
+7' N.; longitude 145&deg; 27' W.</p>
+
+<p>We perceived, on landing, by the driving of the loose pieces of ice,
+that the tide was running strongly to the eastward, through the channel
+we had passed along, and that it continued to do so, until ten this
+morning, during which time the water was falling. It changed at ten, and
+the water rose one foot before one <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> This observation would indicate
+the flood to come from the eastward, though contrary to what was
+remarked at Barter Island the day before; but in a sea so closely beset
+with ice, no accurate observations as to the direction of the tide could
+be obtained.</p>
+
+<p>The Rocky Mountains either terminated abreast of our present situation,
+or receded so far to the southward as to be imperceptible from the coast
+a few miles beyond this reef. The ice being somewhat loosened by the
+flood tide, we embarked at one <span class="smcap">p.m.</span>, to force the boats through the
+narrow channels, and in the course of two hours reached Point Brownlow,
+where we landed, for the purpose of ascertaining whether the ice could
+be avoided by passing into the bay that then opened to our view,
+trending to the south. We perceived that this bay was in every part
+flat, and strewed with stones; and that the only prospect of getting
+forward was by entering the ice again, and pushing to an island about
+two miles further to the west, which we reached after receiving several
+heavy blows in passing through the loose ice at the entrance of the
+strait, between the central reef and the island, where the pieces were
+much tossed by the tide.</p>
+
+<p>The view from the south-east part of the island led us, at first, to
+suppose that we might proceed by keeping close to its south shore; but
+in making the attempt, the boats repeatedly took the ground, and we were
+obliged to seek a passage by the north side of the island. At the end of
+a mile in that direction we were stopped by the ice being unbroken from
+the shore, and closely packed to seaward. Since the day after <span class='pagenum'><a
+name="Page_134" id="Page_134">[Pg 134]</a></span>our departure from the Mackenzie,
+when we first came to the ice, we had not witnessed a more unfavourable
+prospect than that before us. No water was to be seen, either from the
+tents, or from the different points of the island which we visited, for
+the purpose of examining into the state of the ice. We were now scantily
+supplied with fuel; the drift timber being covered by the ice high up
+the bank, except just where the boat had landed.</p>
+
+<p>In the evening a gale came on from the east, and blew throughout the
+following day: we vainly hoped this would produce some favourable
+change; and the water froze in the kettle on the night of the 5th. The
+position of the encampment was ascertained by observation to be, <span class="sidenotel">Sunday,
+6th.</span>latitude 70&deg; 11' N.; longitude 145&deg; 50' W.; variation
+42&deg; 56' E.; so that notwithstanding the obstructions we had met, an
+advance of two degrees of longitude had been made in the two preceding
+days.</p>
+
+<p>This island received the name of Flaxman, in honour of the late eminent
+sculptor. It is about four miles long and two broad, and rises, at its
+highest elevation, about fifty feet. In one of the ravines, where a
+portion of the bank had been carried away by the disruption of the ice,
+we perceived that the stratum of loose earth was not more than eighteen
+inches thick, the lower bed being frozen mud; yet this small quantity of
+soil, though very swampy, nourished grasses, several of the arctic
+plants, and some few willows, that were about three inches high. Several
+boulder stones were scattered on its beach, and also in the channel that
+separates it from the main shore.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenotel">Monday, 7th.</span>An easterly wind gave place to a calm on the morning of the
+7th: and as this change, though it produced no effect in loosening the
+ice to the north, caused more water to flow into the channel between the
+island and the main, we succeeded with little difficulty in crossing the
+flats that had before impeded us. Beyond this bar the water gradually
+deepened to three fathoms; and a favourable breeze springing up, we set
+the sail, and steered for the outer point of land in sight. We continued
+in smooth water until we reached Point Thompson, when, having lost the
+shelter of the ice which was aground on a tongue of gravel projecting
+from Flaxman Island, we became exposed to an unpleasant swell.</p>
+
+<p>The Lion was very leaky, in consequence of the blows she had received
+from the ice; but as we could keep her free by baling, we did not lose
+the favourable moment by stopping to <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135">[Pg 135]</a></span>repair her. Our course was
+continued past Point Bullen, until we came to an island lying three
+miles from the shore, which proved to be connected with the main land by
+a reef. Dazzled by the glare of the sun in our eyes, the surf, which was
+breaking on this reef, was mistaken for a ripple of the tide; and
+although the sails were lowered, as a measure of precaution, we were so
+near before the mistake was discovered, that the strength of the wind
+drove the Lion aground, by which accident she took in much water. The
+exertions of the crew soon got her afloat, and both boats were pulled to
+windward of the island. The sails were then set, but as the wind had by
+this time increased to a strong gale, they were close reefed. We stood
+along the coast, looking for a favourable landing place, that we might
+obtain shelter from an approaching storm which the appearance of the sky
+indicated, and to repair the damage which the Lion had sustained. At
+length, some posts that had been erected by the Esquimaux on a point,
+denoted an approachable part of the coast, and we effected a landing
+after lightening the boats, by carrying part of the cargo two hundred
+yards through the water. The main shore to the westward of Flaxman
+Island is so low that it is not visible at the distance of three miles,
+with the exception of three small hummocks, which look like islands.</p>
+
+<p>The carpenter had finished the repairs of the boat by midnight, and we
+were prepared to go forward, but were prevented from moving by a very
+thick fog, which continued throughout the night, and till <span class="sidenote">Tuesday,
+8th.</span>eleven on the morning of the 8th. The storm continued violent
+throughout the day, but the fog cleared away for the space of two hours,
+and enabled us to perceive that the ice, which in the preceding evening
+had been at a considerable distance from the land, was now tossing
+about, in large masses, close to the border of the shallow water. We
+were also enabled, during the interval of clear weather, to ascertain,
+by astronomical observations, the latitude 70&deg; 16' 27" N.; longitude
+147&deg; 38' W.; and variation 43&deg; 15' E.</p>
+
+<p>The hunters were sent out in pursuit of some deer that were seen, and
+Augustus killed one. They ascertained, during the chase, that we were on
+an island, separated from the main shore by a channel, fordable at low
+water. At this encampment we remarked the first instance of regularity
+in the tide. It was low water at half past nine on the evening of the
+7th, and high water at half past two the following morning; the rise
+being sixteen inches. An equally regular tide was observed <span class='pagenum'><a
+name="Page_136" id="Page_136">[Pg 136]</a></span>on the 8th, but we could not
+ascertain the direction of the flood. <span class="sidenotel"> Wednesday, 9th.</span>After sunset the
+squalls became extremely violent; and until three in the afternoon of
+the 9th, the fog was so dense that every object more distant than forty
+yards, was hidden. After that period, a partial clearness of the
+atmosphere discovered to us the waves more high than the day before, and
+beating heavily against the weather beach of the island. We rejoiced,
+however, at seeing a large stream of ice to windward, supposing that its
+presence there would cause the swell to go down, and that we should be
+able to proceed as soon as the wind should fall. We employed ourselves
+in observing the dip with Meyer's and the common needles, as well as the
+magnetic force. The mean dip was 82&deg; 26'. The temperature of the air
+this day varied from 38&deg; to 45&deg;. High water took place at
+fifteen minutes after three <span class="smcap">p.m.</span>, the rise being two feet. The water did
+not fall so low as yesterday, owing to the wind blowing more across the
+mouth of the bay.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenotel">Thursday, 10th.</span>On the 10th, the continuance of the gale, and of the fog
+more opaque, if possible, than before, and more wet, were not only
+productive of irksome detention, but they prevented us from taking
+exercise; our walks being confined to a space between the marks which
+the Esquimaux had put up on two projecting points, whither we went at
+every glimpse of clearness, to examine into the state of the waves. We
+witnessed with regret, in these short rambles, the havoc which this
+dreary weather made amongst the flowers. Many that had been blooming on
+our arrival, were now lying prostrate and withered. These symptoms of
+decay could not fail painfully to remind us that the term of our
+operations was fast approaching; and often, at this time, did every one
+express a wish that we had some decked vessel, in which the provision
+could be secured from the injury of salt water, and the crew sheltered
+when they required rest, that we might quit this shallow coast, and
+steer at once towards Icy Cape. We designated this dreary place by the
+name of Foggy Island. As an instance of the illusion occasioned by the
+fog, I may mention that our hunters sallied forth, on more than one
+occasion, to fire at what they supposed to be deer, on the bank about
+one hundred yards from the tents, which, to their surprise, took wing,
+and proved to be cranes and geese.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenotel">Friday, 11th.</span>The wind changed from east to west in the course of the
+night, and at eight in the morning of the 11th, the fog dispersed
+sufficiently to allow of our seeing a <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137">[Pg 137]</a></span>point bearing N.W. by W.,
+about three miles and a half distant which we supposed to be an island.
+We, therefore, hastened to embark; but before the boats could be dragged
+so far from the shore that they would float, the fog returned. The wind,
+however, being light, we resolved to proceed, and steer by compass, to
+the land that had been seen. Soon after quitting the beach we met with
+shoals, which forced us to alter the course more to the north; and
+having made the distance at which we estimated the point to be, and
+being ignorant which way the coast trended beyond it, we rested for some
+time upon the oars, in the hope that the fog would clear away, even for
+a short time, to enable us to shape our course anew; but in vain; all
+our movements in the bay being impeded by the flats that surrounded us,
+we were compelled to return to Foggy Island. Scarcely had the men made a
+fire to dry their clothes, which were thoroughly wet from wading over
+the flats, than the fog again dispersing, we pushed off once more. On
+this occasion we arrived abreast of the point whilst the weather
+continued clear, but found a reef, over which the waves washed,
+stretching to the north-west, beyond the extent of our view. Just as we
+began to proceed along the reef, the recurrence of the fog rendered it
+necessary for us to seek for shelter on the shore; and as we were
+heartily tired of our late encampment, we endeavoured to find another,
+but the shoals prevented our reaching any landing-place. We, therefore,
+retraced our course, though with much reluctance, to Foggy Island, which
+the men declared to be an enchanted island. Though our wanderings this
+day did not exceed seven miles, the crews were employed upwards of two
+hours in dragging the boats through the mud, when the temperature of the
+water was at 40&deg;, and that of the air 41&deg;. They endured this
+fatigue with the greatest cheerfulness, though it was evident they
+suffered very much from the cold; and in the evening we witnessed the
+ill effects of this kind of labour by finding their legs much swelled
+and inflamed. The fear of their becoming ill from a frequent repetition
+of such operations made me resolve not to attempt the passage of these
+flats again till the weather should be so clear that we might ascertain
+their extent, and see in what way they might be passed with less risk.
+Fog is, of all others, the most hazardous state of the atmosphere for
+navigation in an icy sea, especially when it is accompanied by strong
+breezes, but particularly so for boats where the shore is
+unapproachable. If caught by a gale, a heavy swell, or drifting ice, the
+result must be their wreck, or the throwing the provisions overboard to
+lighten them, so as to proceed into <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_138" id="Page_138">[Pg 138]</a></span>shoal water. Many large
+pieces of ice were seen on the borders of the shallow water; and from
+the lowness of the temperature, we concluded that the main body was at
+no great distance. We had also passed through a stream of perfectly
+fresh water, which we supposed was poured out from a large river in the
+intermediate vicinity, but the fog prevented our seeing its outlet.
+<span class="sidenotel"> Saturday, 12th.</span>The atmosphere was equally foggy throughout the night,
+and all the 12th, although the wind had changed to the east, and blew a
+strong breeze. Winds from this quarter had been extremely prevalent
+since the preceding April: but on our former visit to the Polar Sea,
+they had been of rare occurrence, and confined to the spring months,
+which we passed at Fort Enterprize. The obstinate continuance of fog
+forms another material difference between this season and the same
+period of 1821. We were only detained three times in navigating along
+the coast that year to the east of the Coppermine River; but on this
+voyage hardly a day passed after our departure from the Mackenzie that
+the atmosphere was not, at some time, so foggy as to hide every object
+more distant than four or five miles. The day that I visited Mount
+Conybeare, and that spent on Flaxman Island, form the only exceptions to
+this remark. A question, therefore, suggests itself:&mdash;Whence arises
+this difference? which, I presume, can be best answered by reference to
+the greater accumulation of ice on this coast, and to the low and very
+swampy nature of the land. There is a constant exhalation of moisture
+from the ice and swamps during the summer months, which is, perhaps,
+prevented from being carried off by the vicinity of the Rocky Mountains,
+and, therefore, becomes condensed into a fog. The coast to the eastward
+of the Coppermine River is high and dry, and far less encumbered with
+ice.</p>
+
+<p>Some deer appearing near the encampment, a party was despatched in
+pursuit of them; but having been previously fired at by Augustus, they
+proved too wary. The exertions of the men were, however, rewarded by the
+capture of some geese and ducks. The whole of the vegetation had now
+assumed the autumnal tint.</p>
+
+<p>There was not the least abatement in the wind, or change in the murky
+atmosphere, <span class="sidenotel">Sunday, 13th.</span>throughout the 13th. The party assembled at
+divine service, and afterwards amused themselves as they could in their
+tents, which were now so saturated with wet as to be very comfortless
+abodes; and in order to keep ourselves tolerably warm we were obliged to
+cover the feet with blankets; our protracted <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_139" id="Page_139">[Pg 139]</a></span>stay having caused
+such a great expenditure of the drift-wood, that we found it necessary
+to be frugal in its use, and only to light the fire when we wanted to
+cook the meals. The nights, too, we regretted to find, were lengthening
+very fast; so that from ten <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> to two <span class="smcap">a.m.</span>, there was too little light
+for proceeding in any unknown tract.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenote">Monday, 14th.</span>The wind this day was moderate, but the fog was more dense,
+and very wet. Tired, however, of the confinement of the tent, most of
+the party wandered out in search of amusement, though we could not see
+one hundred yards; and some partridges, ducks, and geese, were shot.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenote">Tuesday, 15th.</span>The fog was dispersed at seven in the morning of the 15th,
+by a north-east gale, which created too great a surf on the beach for us
+to launch the boats, and the fog returned in the evening. The
+temperature fell to 35 degrees, and in the course of the night ice was
+formed on the small pools near the encampment. Augustus set off in the
+afternoon to cross over to the main shore for the purpose of hunting,
+and to see whether there were any traces of the western Esquimaux, but
+he found none, and only saw three rein-deer.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenote">Wednesday, 16th.</span>The weather again became clear, after the sun rose, on
+the 16th, and we embarked as soon as the flowing of the tide enabled us
+to launch the boats, all in the highest spirits at the prospect of
+escaping from this detestable island. We took advantage of the fair
+wind, set the sails, and steered to the westward parallel to the coast.
+We had never more than from three to six feet water, for the first seven
+miles, until we had passed round the reef that projects from the point
+we had so often attempted to reach, and which was named Point Anxiety.</p>
+
+<p>Between Point Anxiety and Point Chandos, which is eight miles further to
+the westward, the land was occasionally seen; but after rounding the
+latter point we lost sight of it, and steered to the westward across the
+mouth of Yarborough Inlet, the soundings varying from five feet to five
+fathoms. The fog returned, and the wind freshening, soon created such a
+swell upon the flats, that it became necessary to haul further from the
+land; but the drift ice beginning to close around us, we could no longer
+proceed with safety, and, therefore, endeavoured to find a
+landing-place. An attempt was made at Point Herald, and another on the
+western point of Prudhoe bay, but both were frustrated by the shoalness
+of the water, and the height of the surf. The increasing violence of the
+gale, however, and density of the fog, rendering it absolutely <span class='pagenum'><a
+name="Page_140" id="Page_140">[Pg 140]</a></span>necessary for us to obtain some
+shelter, we stood out to seaward, with the view of making fast to a
+large piece of ice. In our way we fell among gravelly reefs, and
+arriving at the same time suddenly in smooth water, we effected a
+landing on one of them. A temporary dispersion of the fog showed that we
+were surrounded with banks nearly on a level with the water, and
+protected to seaward by a large body of ice lying aground. The patch of
+gravel on which we were encamped, was about five hundred yards in
+circumference, destitute of water, and with no more drift wood than a
+few willow branches, sufficient to make one fire.</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" /> <p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141">[Pg 141]</a></span></p> <h2><a name="CHAPTER_V" id="CHAPTER_V"></a>CHAPTER V.</h2>
+
+<p><small>Commence Return to the Mackenzie&mdash;Delayed again at Foggy
+Island&mdash;Ice packed on the Reefs near Beaufort Bay, and on the Coast
+about Clarence River&mdash;Pass the Channels near Herschel Island in a
+Gale and Fog&mdash;A sudden Gale&mdash;Escape an Attack which the
+Mountain Indians meditated&mdash;Enter the Mackenzie&mdash;Peel
+River&mdash;Arrival at Fort Franklin.</small></p>
+
+
+<p><span class="sidenote">Wednesday, 16th.</span><span class="smcap">The</span> period had now arrived when it was incumbent on me
+to consider, whether the prospect of our attaining the object of the
+voyage was sufficiently encouraging to warrant the exposure of the party
+to daily increasing risk, by continuing on. We were now only half way
+from the Mackenzie River to Icy Cape; and the chance of reaching the
+latter, depended on the nature of the coast that was yet unexplored, and
+the portion of the summer which yet remained for our operations.</p>
+
+<p>I knew, from the descriptions of Cook and Burney, that the shore about
+Icy Cape resembled that we had already passed, in being flat, and
+difficult of approach; while the general trending of the coast from the
+Mackenzie to the west-north-west, nearly in the direction of Icy Cape,
+combined with the information we had collected from the Esquimaux, led
+me to conclude that no material change would be found in the
+intermediate portion.</p>
+
+<p>The preceding narrative shows the difficulties of navigating such a
+coast, even during the finest part of the summer; if, indeed, any
+portion of a season which had been marked by a constant succession of
+fogs and gales could be called fine. No opportunity of advancing had
+been let slip, after the time of our arrival in the Arctic Sea; and the
+unwearied zeal and exertion of the crews had been required, for an
+entire month, to explore the ten degrees of longitude between Herschel
+Island and our present situation, I had, therefore, no reason to suppose
+that the ten remaining degrees could be navigated in much less time. The
+ice, it is true, was more broken up, and the sea around our present
+encampment was clear; but we had lately seen how readily the drift ice
+was packed upon the shoals by every breeze of wind blowing towards the
+land. The summer, bad as it had been, was now nearly at an end, and on
+this point I had the experience of the former voyage for a guide. At
+Point Turn-again, two degrees to the south of our <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142">[Pg 142]</a></span>present
+situation, the comparatively warm summer of 1821 was terminated on the
+17th of August, by severe storms of wind and snow; and in the space of a
+fortnight afterwards, winter set in with all its severity. Last year,
+too, on the 18th and following days of the same month, we had a heavy
+gale at the mouth of the Mackenzie; and appearances did not indicate
+that the present season would prove more favourable. The mean
+temperature of the atmosphere had decreased rapidly since the sun had
+begun to sink below the horizon, and the thermometer had not lately
+shown a higher temperature than 37&deg;. Ice, of considerable thickness,
+formed in the night, and the number of the flocks of geese which were
+hourly seen pursuing their course to the westward, showed that their
+autumnal flight had commenced.</p>
+
+<p>While a hope remained of reaching Behring Straits, I looked upon the
+hazard to which we had, on several occasions, been exposed, of shipwreck
+on the flats, or on the ice, as inseparable from a voyage of the nature
+of that which we had undertaken; and if such an accident had occurred, I
+should have hoped, with a sufficient portion of the summer before me, to
+conduct my party in safety back to the Mackenzie. But the loss of the
+boats when we should have been far advanced, and at the end of the
+season, would have been fatal. The deer hasten from the coast as soon as
+the snow falls; no Esquimaux had been lately seen, nor any
+winter-houses, to denote that this part of the coast was much
+frequented; and if we did meet them under adverse circumstances, we
+could not, with safety, trust to their assistance for a supply of
+provision; nor do I believe that, if willing, even they would have been
+able to support our party for any length of time.</p>
+
+<p>Till our tedious detention at Foggy Island, we had had no doubt of
+ultimate success; and it was with no ordinary pain that I could now
+bring myself even to think of relinquishing the great object of my
+ambition, and of disappointing the flattering confidence that had been
+reposed in my exertions. But I had higher duties to perform than the
+gratification of my own feelings; and a mature consideration of all the
+above matters forced me to the conclusion, that we had reached that
+point beyond which perseverance would be rashness, and our best efforts
+must be fruitless. In order to put the reader completely in possession
+of the motives which would have influenced me, had I been entirely a
+free agent, I have mentioned them without allusion to the clause in my
+instructions which directed me to commence my return on the 15th or 20th
+of August, "if, in consequence of slow progress, or other unfore<span class='pagenum'><a
+name="Page_143" id="Page_143">[Pg 143]</a></span>seen accident, it should remain
+doubtful whether we should be able to reach Kotzebue's Inlet the same
+season."</p>
+
+<p>In the evening I communicated my determination to the whole party; they
+received it with the good feeling that had marked their conduct
+throughout the voyage, and they assured me of their cheerful
+acquiescence in any order I should give. The readiness with which they
+would have prosecuted the voyage, had it been advisable to do so, was
+the more creditable, because many of them had their legs swelled and
+inflamed from continually wading in ice-cold water while launching the
+boats, not only when we accidentally ran on shore, but every time that
+it was requisite to embark, or to land upon this shallow coast. Nor were
+these symptoms to be overlooked in coming to a determination; for though
+no one who knows the resolute disposition of British sailors can be
+surprised at their more than readiness to proceed, I felt that it was my
+business to judge of their capability of so doing, and not to allow
+myself to be seduced by their ardour, however honourable to them, and
+cheering to me.</p>
+
+<p>Compelled as I was to come to the determination of returning, it is a
+great satisfaction to me to know, as I now do, that the reasons which
+induced me to take this step were well-founded. This will appear by the
+following extract from Captain Beechey's official account of his
+proceedings in advancing eastward from Icy Cape, with which I have been
+favoured.</p>
+
+<p>"Mr. Elson, (the master,) after quitting the ship off Icy Cape, on the
+18th August, had proceeded along the coast without interruption, until
+the 22nd of the month, when he arrived off a very low sandy spit, beyond
+which, to the eastward, the coast formed a bay, with a more easterly
+trending than that on the west side; but it was so low that it could not
+be traced far, and became blended with the ice before it reached the
+horizon. It was found impossible to proceed round the spit, in
+consequence of the ice being grounded upon it, and extending to the
+horizon in every direction, except that by which the boat had advanced,
+and was so compact that no openings were seen in any part of it. This
+point, which is the most northern part of the continent yet known, lies
+in latitude, by meridian altitude of the sun, 71&deg; 23' 39" N.; and
+longitude, by several sets of lunar distances, both observed on an
+iceberg, 156&deg; 21' W.; and is situated one hundred and twenty miles
+beyond Icy Cape. Between these two stations, and, indeed, to the
+southward of the latter, the coast is very flat, abounding in lakes and
+rivers, which are too shallow to be entered by any<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144">[Pg 144]</a></span>thing but a
+baidar. The greater part of the coast is thickly inhabited by Esquimaux,
+who have their winter-habitations close to the beach.</p>
+
+<p>"The barge had not been off this point sufficiently long to complete the
+necessary observations, when the same westerly wind, which had induced
+me to proceed round Cape Lisburn, brought the ice down upon the coast,
+and left the boat no retreat. It at the same time occasioned a current
+along shore to the northward, at the rate of three and four miles per
+hour. The body of ice took the ground in six and seven fathoms water,
+but pieces of a lighter draft filled up the space between it and the
+shore, and, hurried along by the impetuosity of the current, drove the
+barge ashore, but fortunately without staving her. By the exertions of
+her officers and crew she was extricated from this perilous situation,
+and attempts were made to track her along the land wherever openings
+occurred, in execution of which the greatest fatigue was endured by all
+her crew. At length all efforts proving ineffectual, and the spaces
+between the ice and the shore becoming frozen over, it was proposed to
+abandon the boat, and the crew to make their way along the coast to
+Kotzebue Sound, before the season should be too far advanced.
+Preparations were accordingly made; and that the boat might not be
+irrevocably lost to the ship, it was determined to get her into one of
+the lakes, and there sink her, that the natives might not break her up,
+and from which she might be extricated the following summer, should the
+ship return. During this period of their difficulties they received much
+assistance from the natives, who, for a little tobacco, put their hands
+to the tow-rope. Their conduct had, in the first instance, been
+suspicious; but in the time of their greatest distress, they were well
+disposed, bringing venison, seal's flesh, oil, &amp;c., and offered up a
+prayer that the wind would blow off the shore, and liberate the boat
+from her critical situation. Before the necessary arrangements were made
+respecting the barge, appearances took a more favourable turn; the ice
+began to move off shore, and after much tracking, &amp;c., the boat was
+got clear, and made the best of her way toward the sound; but off Cape
+Lisburn she met with a gale of wind, which blew in eddies so violently,
+that it is said the spray was carried up to the tops of the mountains;
+and the boat, during this trial, behaved so well, that not a moment's
+anxiety for her safety was entertained. I must not close the account
+without expressing my warm approbation of the conduct of Mr. Elson."</p>
+
+<p>The barge rejoined Captain Beechey on the 10th September, at Chamisso
+Island, the Blossom having gone thither to <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145">[Pg 145]</a></span>wood and water, and
+being further forced to quit the coast to the northward, in consequence
+of strong westerly winds.</p>
+
+<p>Could I have known, or by possibility imagined, that a party from the
+Blossom had been at the distance of only one hundred and sixty miles
+from me, no difficulties, dangers, or discouraging circumstances, should
+have prevailed on me to return; but taking into account the uncertainty
+of all voyages in a sea obstructed by ice, I had no right to expect that
+the Blossom had advanced beyond Kotzebue Inlet, or that any party from
+her had doubled Icy Cape. It is useless now to speculate on the probable
+result of a proceeding which did not take place; but I may observe,
+that, had we gone forward as soon as the weather permitted, namely, on
+the 18th, it is scarcely possible that any change of circumstances could
+have enabled us to overtake the Blossom's barge.<a name="FNanchor_3_3" id="FNanchor_3_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_3_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a></p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenote">Thursday, 17th.</span>The wind changed to N.E. after midnight, the squalls were
+more violent, and in the morning of the 17th such a surf was beating on
+the borders of the reef, that the boats could not be launched. The fog
+disappeared before the gale about eleven, and during the afternoon we
+enjoyed the clearest atmosphere that we had witnessed since our
+departure from Mount Conybeare. This was the first opportunity there had
+been, for the seven preceding days, of making astronomical observations,
+and we gladly took advantage of it, to observe the latitude, 70&deg; 26'
+N.; longitude 148&deg; 52' W.; and variation 41&deg; 20' E. We had
+likewise the gratification of being able to trace the land round Gwydyr
+Bay, to its outer point, bearing S. 79 W. ten miles, which I have named
+after my excellent companion Lieutenant Back, and of seeing a still more
+westerly hummock, bearing S. 84 W., about fifteen miles, that has been
+distinguished by the name of my friend Captain Beechey; at which point,
+in latitude 70&deg; 24' N., longitude 149&deg; 37' W., our discoveries
+terminated. The fog returned at sunset, and as the wind was piercingly
+cold, and we had neither fire nor room for exercise, we crept between
+the blankets, as the only means of keeping ourselves warm.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenote">Friday, 18th.</span>The gale having considerably abated, and the weather being
+clear, we quitted Return Reef on <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146">[Pg 146]</a></span>the morning of the 18th, and
+began to retrace our way towards the Mackenzie. As the waves were still
+very high to seaward, we attempted to proceed inside of the reefs, but
+as the boats were constantly taking the ground, we availed ourselves of
+the first channel that was sufficiently deep to pull on the outside of
+them. The swell being too great there for the use of the oars, the sails
+were set double reefed, and the boats beat to the eastward against the
+wind, between the drift ice and the shallow water.</p>
+
+<p>A gale rose after noon from N.E. by N., which enabled us to shape a
+course for Foggy Island, where we arrived at three <span class="smcap">p.m.</span>, just at a time
+when the violence of the squalls, and the increased height of the swell,
+would have rendered further proceeding very hazardous. We now enjoyed
+the comforts of a good fire and a warm meal, which we had not had since
+the evening of the 16th. The men were afterwards employed in erecting a
+square pile of drift timber, on the highest part of the island fronting
+the sea, on which a red cornet flag was left flying, and underneath it
+was deposited, in a tin case, a letter for Captain Parry, containing an
+account of our proceedings; also a silver medal and a halfpenny: and in
+order that government might have some chance of hearing of our
+proceedings, should any accident subsequently befal the party, there was
+also deposited an unsealed letter, wrapped in bark, addressed to the
+Russian Fur Traders, in the expectation that the Esquimaux might
+probably convey it to their Establishment. An ice-chisel, a knife, a
+file, and a hatchet, were hung up on the pile, for the Esquimaux. On
+digging to erect these posts, the ground was found frozen at the depth
+of sixteen inches; and the thermometer, during the day, seldom rose
+above 37&deg;. This evening the temperature was 33&deg;. <span class="sidenotel">Saturday,
+19th.</span>We were vexatiously detained the 19th, and following day, by the
+continuance of the gale, and a thick fog; during which time many large
+flocks of geese were observed passing away to the westward. The tides
+were now much higher than during our first visit.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenotel">Monday, 21st.</span>The breeze was moderate on the morning of the 21st, yet we
+were prevented from embarking until ten o'clock, by the return of the
+fog. We then hastened to escape from this ill-omened island. The boats
+were pulled to seaward, so as to gain a sufficient offing for them to
+pass on the outside of the shallow water; and by the aid of the oars and
+sails we made good progress, and encamped within sight of Flaxman
+Island. A black whale, a seal of the largest kind, and numerous flocks
+of geese were seen in the course of <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_147" id="Page_147">[Pg 147]</a></span>this day. Several stars were
+visible after ten <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> <span class="sidenote">Tuesday, 22nd.</span>Showers of snow fell during the
+night, but the morning of the 22nd was calm and clear. We embarked at
+daylight, and in the course of three hours arrived abreast of the east
+end of Flaxman Island. The ice had broken from the northern shore during
+our absence, and was now lying about a mile from the land, apparently
+aground on reefs, as we had observed it to be along the outer border of
+the one at the west end of the island. The water was much deeper between
+Flaxman Island and the main than when we passed in the early part of
+August. Eastward of Point Brownlow there was an open channel of three or
+four miles wide. And by keeping close to the borders of the drift ice we
+avoided the shallows at the mouth of the Canning River, and arrived at
+Boulder Island about noon. Here we found an Esquimaux grave, containing
+three bodies, covered with drift timber, and by their side there were
+placed the canoes, arrows, and fishing implements of the deceased. Not
+being able to procure fresh water here, we set forward to cross Camden
+Bay, touched at one of the points to fill the water-casks, and reached
+Barter Island after dark; the crews much fatigued, having been pulling
+for nineteen hours. We regretted to find the Esquimaux had visited this
+spot during our absence, and carried away the gun and ammunition which
+had been left by mistake at the encampment on the 4th of August, because
+we were not only apprehensive that some accident might have occurred in
+the attempt to discharge the gun, but were desirous to prevent the
+introduction of fire-arms among these people. <span class="sidenote">Wednesday, 23rd.</span>Being now
+near the point of the coast at which we had seen a considerable number
+of the natives, we remained at the encampment until ten o'clock on the
+morning of the 23d, to clean the guns and issue a fresh supply of
+ammunition to the party. The day was calm and cloudless; the whole range
+of the Romanzoff Mountains was in sight, and they appeared to be more
+covered with snow than when we passed to the westward. A few musquitoes
+made their appearance, but they were very feeble. Having landed at Point
+Manning to replenish the water-casks, we afterwards pulled throughout
+the day close to the edge of the ice, which was still heavy, though
+loose, and encamped near Point Griffin. Some large-sized medus&aelig;,
+and several of the gelatinous substances known to seamen by the name of
+blubber, were found on the beach, which accounted for the number of
+black ducks that had been seen in the course of the day, as they feed
+on those substances. The temperature <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_148" id="Page_148">[Pg 148]</a></span>varied this day from 35
+degrees to 46 degrees; and the thermometer rose to 64 degrees at two
+<span class="smcap">p.m.</span>, when exposed to the sun's rays.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenotel">Thursday, 24th.</span>The morning of the 24th was calm; we set forward at
+daylight, and having proceeded a few miles between heavy floating ice,
+about half a mile from the shore we met with a large sheet of bay ice of
+last night's formation, of sufficient thickness to impede though not to
+stop the boats. Having arrived abreast of Point Humphrys, we steered
+out to seaward, for the purpose of avoiding the shallows that extend
+across Beaufort Bay, intending to direct our course in a line for Mount
+Conybeare, which was in sight. We were then exposed to a long rolling
+swell, and we soon afterwards perceived that it had driven the ice upon
+the reefs at the eastern extremity of the bay, which would have
+precluded our retreat to the shore in the event of the wind rising. It
+therefore became necessary to penetrate into the pack, and keep by the
+side of the reefs; but in doing so, the boats were exposed to no little
+danger of being broken in passing through the narrow channels between
+the masses of ice which were tossing with the swell, and from which
+large pieces frequently fell. At six <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> we passed our former
+encampment on Icy Reef, and afterwards proceeded through an open space
+to Demarcation Point, where we encamped, and hauled up the boats to
+prevent them from being injured by the surf. We found here two families
+of Esquimaux, which belonged to the party that had been to Barter
+Island, waiting the return of a man from hunting, in order to follow
+their companions to the eastward. They showed much joy at seeing us
+again, and remained the greater part of the night talking with Augustus.
+The most active young man of the party, not thinking himself
+sufficiently smart for the occasion, retired to the oomiak to change his
+dress and mouth ornaments, capering about on his return, evidently proud
+of his gayer appearance.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenotel">Friday, 25th.</span>The morning was foggy, but there being little wind, we
+launched the boats, and pulled for an hour close to the shore, when we
+came to a body of ice so closely packed as scarcely to afford a passage,
+and it was with difficulty that we arrived at Clarence River. There we
+perceived four tents; near which we had been warned by our visitors
+last night not to land, as the party had recently lost their parents,
+and it was feared that, in the state of mind in which they then were,
+they might be disposed to do us some injury. We pulled near enough to
+inquire about the gun, and learned that the person who had it was
+farther to the eastward. The difficulties of forcing a passage were not
+diminished beyond <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_149" id="Page_149">[Pg 149]</a></span>this place, and we were further impeded in our
+advance by new ice formed between the larger masses, which required
+additional labour to break through. The fog cleared away at ten; we
+halted to breakfast at Backhouse River, and remained whilst Augustus
+went in pursuit of two rein-deer, one of which he killed.</p>
+
+<p>Renewing our course, we passed on the outside of the ice until we were
+nearly abreast of Mount Conybeare, when the wind came strong from the
+eastward, and obliged us to have recourse again to its shelter. This
+barrier, however, terminated at the end of five miles, and being then
+exposed to the wind and swell, against which the men were unable to
+pull, we encamped.</p>
+
+<p>The experience we had now gained of the ice being packed upon this shore
+by a wind from the sea, assured us of the correctness of the report
+which the Esquimaux had given, and likewise afforded a reason for their
+expression of surprise at our being unprovided with sledges, as it was
+evident, unless a strong wind blew from the land, that the new ice would
+soon unite the pack with the shore, and preclude the possibility of
+making the passage in boats, unless by going outside of the ice, which
+would be extremely hazardous, from the want of shelter in the event of a
+gale springing up. The pieces of ice were generally from ten to fifteen
+feet in height, many of them were from twenty to thirty feet: their
+length was from twenty to one hundred yards. We saw several white whales
+in the open water, and a flock of white geese at the encampment, which
+were the first noticed on this coast. The rising of the wind from E.N.E.
+this afternoon was accompanied by an increase of temperature from
+43&deg; to 53&deg;, and we felt a comfortable sensation of warmth, to
+which we had been strangers for the preceding month.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenote">Saturday, 26th.</span>We took advantage of a favourable breeze to embark before
+daylight on the morning of the 26th; at sunrise it increased to a gale,
+and raised a heavy sea. In two hours we ran to the commencement of the
+intricate channels leading to Herschel Island, where the Esquimaux seen
+at Barter Island were encamped on a reef, and apparently gazing in
+astonishment at the speed of our boats. They made many signs for us to
+land, which we were desirous of doing had it been practicable for the
+surf. That the boats might be perfectly manageable, we took two reefs in
+the sails, and shaped the course for Herschel Island; but scarcely were
+the sails reset before a fog came on that hid every mark that could
+guide us; a heavy swell was rolling at the time, and to arrive at the
+island we had to pass through a channel only about two hundred yards
+broad. To find this, surrounded as it was by shoals, in the midst <span class='pagenum'><a
+name="Page_150" id="Page_150">[Pg 150]</a></span>of a dense fog, was a task of
+considerable anxiety and danger, and our situation was not rendered more
+agreeable by being assailed the whole way with continued shouting from
+persons to us invisible; our arrival having been communicated by the
+Esquimaux who first descried us, to their companions on the neighbouring
+reefs. We effected it, however, and landed in safety, though we did not
+discover the island till we were within forty yards of its shore. We had
+scarcely landed before the fog dispersed, and discovered to us a
+solitary tent on an adjacent point. Three men soon paid us a visit, whom
+we had not seen before, and they informed us that nearly the whole of
+the tribe was now collected in the vicinity for the purpose of hunting
+deer, and catching whales and seals for the winter's consumption. We
+quitted the island at ten <span class="smcap">a.m.</span>, and steered directly for Point Kay, to
+avoid the sinuosities of the coast, and the frequent interruption of the
+Esquimaux, whose tents were observed to be scattered on the beach nearly
+the whole way to Babbage River. Three men and some women came off to
+bring us fish, and being liberally rewarded, they went away perfectly
+happy, singing the praises of the white people. We passed round Point
+Kay at four <span class="smcap">p.m.</span>, with a moderate breeze from W.N.W., and steered for
+Point King, keeping about two miles from the land. As the afternoon wore
+away, gloomy clouds gathered in the north-west; and at six a violent
+squall came from that quarter, attended with snow and sleet. The gale
+increased with rapidity: in less than ten minutes the sea was white with
+foam, and such waves were raised as I had never before been exposed to
+in a boat. The spray and sea broke over us incessantly, and it was with
+difficulty that we could keep free by baling. Our little vessels went
+through the water with great velocity under a close-reefed sail, hoisted
+about three feet up the main-mast, and proved themselves to be very
+buoyant. Their small size, however, and the nature of their
+construction, necessarily adapted for the navigation of shallow rivers,
+unfitting them for withstanding the sea then running, we were in
+imminent danger of foundering. I therefore resolved on making for the
+shore, as the only means of saving the party, although I was aware that,
+in so doing, I incurred the hazard of staving the boats, there being few
+places on this part of the coast where there was sufficient beach under
+the broken cliffs. The wind blowing along the land we could not venture
+on exposing the boat's side to the sea by hauling directly in, but,
+edging away with the wind on the quarter, we most providentially took
+the ground in a favourable spot. The boats were instantly filled with
+the surf, but they were <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_151" id="Page_151">[Pg 151]</a></span>unloaded and dragged up without having
+sustained any material damage. Impressed with a sense of gratitude for
+the signal deliverance we had experienced on this and other occasions,
+we assembled in the evening to offer up praise and thanksgiving to the
+Almighty.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenote">Sunday, 27th.</span>On the 27th the weather was calm; but as a heavy surf
+prevented our embarkation, we took advantage of the delay to dry our
+bedding, clothes, and pemmican. The guns were likewise cleaned, and
+every thing put in order. There was an Esquimaux party at this spot,
+which had witnessed the landing of the boats in the storm with
+astonishment, having expected to see every man drowned. Augustus passed
+the night at their tents; and having brought the whole party to our
+encampment, the women, with much good nature, sewed soles of seal-skins
+to the men's mocassins, in order to fit them better for the operation of
+tracking, in which they were soon to be employed. These Esquimaux had
+recently returned from a visit to the gang that had pillaged the boats
+at the mouth of the Mackenzie; and we now learned the intention that had
+been entertained of destroying our party, along with the other
+particulars that have been already mentioned.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenote">Monday, 28th.</span>Our approach to the Mackenzie was marked by the quantity of
+drift timber floating about. We passed several families of the natives,
+without visiting them, until we perceived one party taking some fish
+from their nets, which tempted us to land. The fish were large
+<i>tittameg</i> and <i>inconn&ucirc;</i>, and proved remarkably fine. We again
+embarked, but having to pull head to the sea, we took in much water, and
+were glad to seek shelter on a gravel reef, where three Esquimaux tents
+were pitched. The whole party quickly mustered around us, and we were
+not a little surprised to find so many inhabitants as twenty-seven,
+including women and children, in three tents only; but on inquiry we
+found that the number was not greater than usual. Two of the men were
+very aged and feeble, the rest were young and active. They practise
+jumping, as an amusement, from their youth; and we had an opportunity of
+witnessing some of their feats, which displayed much agility. The women
+cheerfully repaired our mocassins, and their industry, as well as the
+good conduct of the men, were rewarded by some valuable presents. We
+were astonished to learn that there had been fog only a day and a half
+in this neighbourhood since we passed, but the wind had been generally
+strong. Augustus gained some information respecting the western
+Esquimaux, and the coast to <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_152" id="Page_152">[Pg 152]</a></span>the westward, which he did not
+communicate to me until some days afterwards, otherwise I should have
+endeavoured to elicit more satisfactory details. It was to the following
+purport:&mdash;The western Esquimaux having purchased the furs from
+those men that dwell near the Mackenzie, at Barter Island, proceed to
+the westward again without delay. A few days journey beyond a part of
+the coast which Augustus understood from description to be Return Reef,
+the sea is still more shallow than that which we had navigated, and the
+water is still, except at certain periods of the year, when it is
+agitated like a strong rapid, by the efflux of the waters of a deep
+inlet, or strait. The land is visible on both sides from the middle of
+this opening; the Esquimaux make for the west side, and on reaching it
+relinquish their canoes, and drag their furs overland to the Russian
+establishments, which are situated in the interior, where the land is
+more elevated than on the coast. The Mountain Indians come down annually
+in large parties to this inlet, and warm contests often arise between
+them and the Esquimaux. The latter are frequently worsted, from their
+inferior numbers, and lose their property, which the Indians bring by
+land to the neighbourhood of Herschel Island, to dispose of to the
+Esquimaux in that quarter. The direction of the inlet was supposed, by
+Augustus, to be about south-west. I am inclined to think that it is the
+estuary of a large river, flowing to the west of the Rocky Mountains,
+obstructed by sand-banks, like the mouth of the Mackenzie. In the course
+of the day three Esquimaux, who had seen our tent from a distance, came
+to visit us. One of them was recognised to have been of the party which
+attacked us at the mouth of the Mackenzie. He gave Augustus a detailed
+account of their schemes on that occasion, which exactly corresponded
+with that we had received on the preceding day. He further told us that
+the party which had assailed us had certainly removed to the eastward;
+but if any of them should have remained, to watch our motions, they
+could be avoided by entering the river by a more westerly branch than
+the one which we had descended, and offered to guide us thither. This
+man was very intelligent, and having carefully examined the boats,
+intimated that he would construct an oomiak after the same plan. We
+embarked at four in the evening with our new friend for a guide, and in
+a short time arrived at the main shore where his tent stood, and where
+he asked the party to encamp, as he intended to go no farther. We were
+not, however, so disposed; and having filled the casks with fresh water,
+and made some presents to the women, we pushed off to take advantage of
+the remaining daylight in <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_153" id="Page_153">[Pg 153]</a></span>getting round a reef which projected
+far seaward. We could not effect this, and at sunset, not being able to
+land on the reef on account of the shallowness of the water, we put back
+to within a mile and a half of the Esquimaux tents. Garry Island was
+seen soon after sunset; and the aurora borealis appeared in the night
+for the first time this season. The temperature of the air varied from
+30&deg; to 49&deg;, and that of the sea water was 37&deg; 2', a quarter
+of a mile from the shore. <span class="sidenote">Tuesday, 29th.</span>A gale coming on in the night,
+and continuing till the following evening, detained us on shore. During
+our stay we were visited by a numerous party of Esquimaux, and found it
+necessary to draw a line round the tents, which they were not permitted
+to pass. These people told us that Dr. Richardson's party had been seen
+clear of the Mackenzie, and had given kettles to men in three canoes,
+after escaping an attempt made by the Esquimaux to drag the boats on
+shore. This account, showing that the propensity to plunder was not
+confined to the Esquimaux with whom we had met, excited painful
+apprehensions for the safety of the eastern party, if they should find
+it necessary to return by the Mackenzie, because we now learned that the
+natives collect in numbers near its mouth at the close of summer. In
+ordinary seasons the weather is mild, and the winds variable until the
+ice breaks up, which is usually about the end of August, when north-west
+winds, and stormy weather, are expected. In this season, however, the
+winds had been so boisterous that the Esquimaux had seldom been able to
+venture out to sea, and their whale fishery had consequently failed. Our
+visitors left us about two <span class="smcap">p.m.</span>; but, shortly afterwards, we heard loud
+cries, and on looking round saw two young Esquimaux running in
+breathless haste to announce that a large party of Indians had come down
+from the mountains with the express purpose of attacking the boats and
+killing every man of the party. They desired us to embark instantly, as
+the only means of escape; for the Indians, they said, were already at
+the tents within our view, and when they left them they were on the
+point of spreading round us to commence the onset. They further said,
+that the Indians, having been provoked by our trading with the
+Esquimaux, had been along the coast in search of us, and that it was
+only this afternoon they had espied our tents, which, by the fluttering
+in the wind, they knew did not belong to the Esquimaux. On this
+discovery they had come to the nearest party of Esquimaux to make known
+their intention, and to request their aid. They were met by our two
+young friends, who were out hunting, but who returned with them to their
+tents, and after learning the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_154" id="Page_154">[Pg 154]</a></span>plans in agitation, had stolen off
+to apprize us of our danger. As soon as Spinks returned, who had gone to
+shoot, we shoved off; and never were men more delighted than our two
+Esquimaux friends seemed to be at our escape; and especially at that of
+Augustus, to save whom, they asserted more than once, was their
+principal motive in coming to us. While Spinks was out of sight, they
+climbed up to the top of an old house to look for him, with the greatest
+apparent solicitude, and were the first to discover him returning. Up to
+the time of his arrival they kept repeating every particular respecting
+the Indians, and pointing out the mode of avoiding them. It was their
+intention, they said, to pursue us to the Mackenzie, but that we should
+get there before them, because there were two rivers in the way which
+the Indians would have great difficulty in crossing, being unprovided
+with canoes. They urged us to make all speed, and not to halt in the
+night, nor to go to sleep; but, if the crew became tired, to put up on
+an island out of gun-shot of the main shore, because the Indians were
+armed with guns as well as bows. They instructed Augustus minutely as to
+the course we were to steer round the reef, and directed us to keep
+along the main shore until we should come to a large opening, which was
+the western outlet of the Mackenzie, and had a deep channel. We rewarded
+their friendly conduct by a considerable present of iron, which they
+received with an indifference that showed them not to have been actuated
+by interested motives in making the communications. Previous to the
+arrival of these men we had perceived the smoke of a distant fire, which
+we had little regarded, supposing it to have been made by some Esquimaux
+who were hunting, but which, it seems, was the fire of the Indians.
+Having pulled round the reef, and being aided by a westerly breeze, we
+soon regained the main shore, and passed the mouth of the two rivers of
+which the Esquimaux had spoken. The night beginning to close in we
+pulled up to the head of an inlet; when heavy rain and squalls coming
+on, we determined to halt. <span class="sidenotel">Wednesday, 30th.</span>As soon as the day dawned,
+which was about half-past two in the morning, we returned to Shoal Water
+Bay; and, sailing along the coast for two or three miles to the
+eastward, arrived at another opening, in which the water was fresh, and
+we did not doubt but it would prove the deep channel by which we had
+been instructed to ascend. There was plenty of water near its mouth, but
+it gradually shoaled; and, at the distance of four miles, we ascertained
+that this promising opening was likewise an inlet. I now relinquished
+the search for a more westerly outlet than the one by which we had
+descended, and, therefore, steered for Pillage Point, which soon <span class='pagenum'><a
+name="Page_155" id="Page_155">[Pg 155]</a></span>afterwards came in sight. After
+dragging the boats for two hours, over the shoals, we rounded Pillage
+Point at ten <span class="smcap">a.m.</span>, and reached the deep water most opportunely; for,
+almost at the instant, a violent north-west gale came on, attended by
+thunder, lightning, and torrents of rain. The wind, however, was fair,
+and brought so much water into the channel of the river, that we passed,
+without obstruction, the shallow parts above Pillage Point. A temporary
+cessation of the rain at noon enabled us to land to breakfast; and we
+afterwards continued to scud before the gale until sunset, when we
+encamped. The temperature fell from 48&deg; to 40&deg; in the gale, and
+we had several showers of snow.</p>
+
+<p>During the above run Augustus entertained us with an account, which he
+had learned from the two Esquimaux, respecting the Mountain Indians; the
+substance was as follows:&mdash;Seven men of that tribe had been to
+Herschel Island to trade with the Esquimaux, who showed them the
+different articles they had received from us, and informed them of our
+being still on the coast, and that our return by this route was not
+improbable. This intelligence they set off at once to communicate to the
+rest of their tribe, who, supposing that we should ruin their trade with
+the Esquimaux, resolved on coming down in a body to destroy us; and that
+they might travel with expedition, their wives and families were left
+behind. They came to the sea coast by the Mountain Indian River,
+opposite Herschel Island, and finding that we had not returned, but
+supposing it possible that we might pass them there, as they had no
+canoes to intercept us, they determined on travelling to the mouth of
+the Mackenzie, where they could conveniently subsist by fishing and
+hunting until our arrival. They had been informed of the manner in which
+we had been robbed by the Esquimaux at that place, and they formed a
+similar plan of operations. When our crews were wading and launching the
+boats over the flats in Shoal Water Bay, a few of them were to have
+offered their assistance, which they imagined would be readily accepted,
+as we should probably take them for Indians belonging to the Loucheux
+tribe, with whom we were acquainted. While pretending to aid us they
+were to have watched an opportunity of staving the boats, so as to
+prevent them from floating in the deeper channel, which runs close to
+the land near Pillage Point. The rest of the party, on a signal being
+given, were then to rush forth from their concealment, and join in the
+assault. They were, in pursuance of this plan, travelling towards the
+Mackenzie, when they discovered our tents; and it appeared that the two
+young men who brought <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_156" id="Page_156">[Pg 156]</a></span>us the intelligence, had been sent as an
+act of gratitude by an old Esquimaux, to whom we had given a knife and
+some other things, on the preceding day. After hearing the plans of the
+Indians, he called the young men aside and said to them, "These white
+people have been kind to us, and they are few in number, why should we
+suffer them to be killed? You are active young men, run and tell them to
+depart instantly." The messengers suggested that we had guns, and could
+defend ourselves. "True," said he, "against a small force, but not
+against so large a body of Indians as this, who are likewise armed with
+guns, and who will crawl under cover of the drift timber, so as to
+surround them before they are aware; run, therefore, and tell them not
+to lose a moment in getting away, and to be careful to avoid the flats
+at the mouth of the river by entering the western channel."</p>
+
+<p>As the goods which the Mountain Indians exchange with the Esquimaux at
+Herschel Island, are very unlike those issued from any of the Hudson's
+Bay Company's posts, I conclude that they obtain them from the Russians;
+but the traders of that nation being prohibited by their government from
+supplying guns to any Indians, I am at a loss to account for these
+people having them;&mdash;perhaps, the prohibition only applies to the
+Esquimaux, or the people on the sea coast. That the Mountain Indians
+have fire-arms we learned, not only on the present occasion, but in our
+first interview with the Esquimaux, at Herschel Island.</p>
+
+<p>The few general remarks which I have to offer, on the subject of a
+North-West Passage, will appear in a subsequent part of the narrative;
+and here I shall only state, that we traced the coast, westward from the
+mouth of the Mackenzie, three hundred and seventy-four miles, without
+having found one harbour in which a ship could find shelter.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenotel">Thursday, 31st.</span>On the 31st, we continued the ascent of the river, and
+encamped in the evening within the limit of the spruce fir trees.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenotel">September 1st.</span>Favoured by a strong north-west gale, on the 1st of
+September, we sailed the whole day along the western main shore, and,
+generally, within view of the Rocky Mountains. One of the numerous
+bends of the river took us within eight miles of part of the mountains,
+which appeared to be composed of a yellow stone, and was from eight
+hundred to a thousand feet in height. In the course of the day we came
+to the most northerly poplars, where the foliage had now assumed the
+yellow autumnal hue. <span class="sidenote">Saturday, 2nd.</span>The gale <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_157" id="Page_157">[Pg 157]</a></span>continued with
+strong squalls on the 2nd, and we advanced rapidly under double-reefed
+sails, though the course of the river was very winding. The temperature
+of the air varied from 41&deg; to 35&deg;. On the third we had calm
+weather, and still keeping the western land aboard, we were led into a
+river which we had not discovered in our descent. The course of this
+river, was, for a time, parallel to our route, and we took it at first
+for one of the channels of the Mackenzie; but, in the afternoon, we saw
+a mountain to the eastward, and ascertained that we were to the
+Southward of Point Separation. We,<span class="sidenote">Sunday, 3rd.</span> therefore, began to
+descend the river again, and encamped shortly after sunset. Just after
+it became dark, voices were heard on the opposite side of the river, to
+which we replied, and soon afterwards, three Indians were observed
+crossing towards us in canoes. They approached cautiously, but on being
+invited to land, they did so, though one of them was so great a cripple
+as to require being carried from the canoe to the fire-side. The alarm
+these poor people had felt, was soon dissipated by kind treatment. They
+were armed with bows and arrows only, and clothed in hare skins and
+leather. Their trowsers were similar to those worn by the lower
+Loucheux, to which tribe they, probably, belonged. We could communicate
+with them only by signs, except by using a few words of Chipewyan, which
+one of them appeared to understand. We collected from them that they
+knew of Fort Good Hope, but none of them seemed to have visited it, as
+they had not a single article of European manufacture about their
+persons. They delineated on a stone the course of the Mackenzie, and of
+the river we had newly discovered, which appears to flow from the Rocky
+Mountains, and to break through the same ridge of hill that the
+Mackenzie does at the Narrows. It is probable, that it was to this river
+the Loucheux alluded, when they told Sir Alexander Mackenzie, opposite
+the present site of Fort Good Hope, that there was a river which
+conducted them to the sea in five days. I have distinguished this river
+by the name of Peel, in honour of His Majesty's Secretary of State for
+the Home Department. It is from a quarter to half a mile wide, and its
+banks are clothed with spruce, birch, and poplar trees, like those of
+the Mackenzie in the same parallel. <span class="sidenote"> Monday, 4th.</span>We set forward at four
+<span class="smcap">a.m.</span> on the 4th, with a strong favourable breeze, and in an hour, passed
+another river descending from the Rocky Mountains, and nearly as large
+as the Peel, into which it flows. We regained the Mackenzie at noon,
+and at five <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> arrived at Point Separation,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_158" id="Page_158">[Pg 158]</a></span> where we encamped.
+Here we found the boat, rope, and kettle, in the same state in which we
+had deposited them. The kettle was a great acquisition to us, because we
+had suffered much inconvenience in having only one for cooking, after
+the Esquimaux had robbed us of the others. The temperature varied during
+the day from 29&deg; to 55&deg;, and, in the evening, the sand flies
+were troublesome. <span class="sidenotel">Tuesday, 5th.</span>We quitted our encampment at day light on
+the 5th, and crossed the river to look for a mark which Dr. Richardson
+was to have erected, if he returned by the Mackenzie; but not finding
+any, we deposited a letter and a bag of pemmican, in case he should come
+at a later period, and that his party should be in want of provision. In
+the vicinity of the Red River, we met Barbue, the Chief of the Loucheux,
+and two or three families, who seemed in a sorry condition from want of
+food, the water being too low for fishing. The chief appeared very
+anxious to communicate some intelligence, which he evidently considered
+important, but we could not understand him. We learned afterwards at the
+fort, that it related to the death of a chief by violence on the sea
+coast; this had given rise to a rumour of the death of myself, and
+afterwards of Dr. Richardson, which occasioned us, for a time, much
+anxiety. The weather, on this and several days, was remarkably fine;
+berries of various kinds were very abundant on the banks, and quite
+ripe. By the aid of the tracking line, with the occasional use of the
+oars and sails, we proceeded up the river at a quick rate, and reached
+Fort Good Hope, at half-past four on the 7th. <span class="sidenotel">Thursday, 7th.</span>In
+consequence of the above-mentioned rumour, I requested Mr. Bell, the
+gentleman in charge of the fort, to despatch two of the Loucheux as
+quickly as possible to the eastern mouth of the river, in order to gain
+any information the Esquimaux could give regarding Dr. Richardson's
+party; and, that the messengers might not be delayed by hunting on the
+way, I left a bag of pemmican for their use. We were sorry to learn that
+there was some apprehension of a serious quarrel arising between the
+upper and lower Loucheux, in consequence of one of Barbue's sons having
+killed his wife, a woman of the latter tribe.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenotel">Friday, 8th.</span>We quitted Fort Good Hope at noon on the 8th, arrived at the
+entrance of Bear Lake River on the 16th, and on the 21st reached Fort
+Franklin, where we had the happiness of meeting our friends in safety.
+<span class="sidenotel">Thursday, 21st.</span>The eastern detachment had arrived on the 1st of
+September, after a most successful voyage; and Dr. Richardson being
+anxious to extend his geological researches,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_159" id="Page_159">[Pg 159]</a></span> as far as the
+season would permit, had gone in a canoe to the Great Slave Lake, having
+previously sent a report of his proceedings, to meet me at Fort Good
+Hope, in case of our being obliged to return by the Mackenzie; but the
+bearer of them passed us without being seen. Having read Mr. Kendall's
+journal, I drew up a brief account of the proceedings of both parties
+for the information of His Majesty's Government, and transmitted it by
+canoe, to Slave Lake on the following morning.</p>
+
+<p>The distance travelled in the three months of our absence from Fort
+Franklin, amounted to two thousand and forty-eight statute miles, of
+which six hundred and ten were through parts not previously discovered.</p>
+
+<p>I cannot close this account of our sea voyage without expressing the
+deep obligation I feel to Lieutenant Back for his cordial co-operation,
+and for his zealous and unwearied assiduity during its progress. Beside
+the daily delineation of the coast in the field book, the service is
+indebted to him for numerous drawings of scenery, as well as of the
+natives; and for an interesting collection of plants. My warmest thanks
+are likewise due to the men of my party, who met every obstacle with an
+ardent desire to surmount it, and cheerfully exerted themselves to the
+utmost of their power. Their cool, steady conduct is the more
+commendable, as the sea navigation was entirely novel to the whole,
+except the seamen Duncan and Spinks, and Hallom, the corporal of
+Marines. The Canadian voyagers, Felix and Vivier, first saw the ocean on
+this occasion.</p>
+
+<p>The following Chapters contain the narrative of the proceedings of Dr.
+Richardson in his own words; and I embrace this opportunity of conveying
+my sincere thanks to him, to Mr. Kendall, and to their respective crews.
+I may be allowed to bear my testimony to the union of caution, talent,
+and enterprise in the former, which enabled him to conduct, with
+singular success, an arduous service of a kind so foreign from his
+profession and ordinary pursuits; and to the science and skill, combined
+with activity, of Mr. (now Lieutenant) Kendall, which must heighten the
+character he has already obtained for general ability and energy in his
+profession. I must not omit to state, that these officers describe the
+conduct of their crews to have been excellent.</p>
+
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_160" id="Page_160">[Pg 160]</a></span><small><i>ABSTRACT of the Mean Temperature for each Day during the Voyage
+along the Sea Coast west of the Mackenzie, and on the return to Bear
+Lake.</i></small></p>
+
+<table class="lines" width="100%"> <tr><td align="center">1826.<br />Date.</td><td align="center">Daily Mean</td><td>Wind and Weather.</td><td>Situation.</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">July.</td><td align="center">&deg;</td><td></td><td></td></tr> <tr><td align="center">1</td><td align="center">52.8</td><td>NNW,
+WNW, moderate, gloomy</td><td>Fort Good Hope.</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">2</td><td align="center">58.3</td><td>West, fresh, clear</td><td rowspan="6">Mackenzie<br
+/>River, betwn<br />lat. 67&deg; 28', &amp;<br />60&deg; 53' N.,longi-<br />tude
+130&frac12;&deg; &amp;<br />136&frac12;&deg; W.</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">3</td><td align="center">50.3</td><td>WNW, fresh, clear</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">4</td><td
+align="center">55.8</td><td>West, SSW, N, light, gloomy</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">5</td><td align="center">53.7</td><td>SW, NE. moderate,
+gloomy, foggy</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">6</td><td align="center">45.1</td><td>NNW, ENE. fresh, moderate, rain</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">7</td><td align="center">41.6</td><td>SE, moderate,
+clear</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">8</td><td align="center" rowspan="4">Not regist'd.<br />Thermom.<br />stolen by<br />Esquimaux.</td><td rowspan="4">ENE, strong, fog and
+rain</td><td>Mouth of the<br />Mackenzie.</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">9</td><td rowspan="8">Between the<br /> Mackenzie &amp;<br />Herschel Isld.<br
+/>lat. 68&deg; 53' &amp;<br />60&deg; 34' N.,<br />long. 136&deg; 19'<br />&amp;
+139&deg;5' W.</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">10</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">11</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">12</td><td align="center">51.6</td><td>EbyN. fresh, gloomy</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">13</td><td align="center">53.3</td><td>Variable, fog and
+rain</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">14</td><td align="center">50.5</td><td>Calm, rain, ENE, moderate, clear</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">15</td><td align="center">48.6</td><td>Calm, clear, NW,
+moderate, foggy</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">16</td><td align="center">47.3</td><td>SSE, moderate, snow, fog</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">17</td><td align="center">44.8</td><td>NW, North,
+moderate, hazy</td><td>Herschel Island.</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">18</td><td align="center">43.6</td><td>NW, moderate, clear</td><td rowspan="14">Between<br />Icy
+Reef<br />and Herschel<br />Island,<br />latitude<br />69&deg; 34' &amp;<br />69&deg; 44' N.,<br
+/>longitude<br />139&deg; 5' and<br />141&deg; 30' W.</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">19</td><td align="center">43.4</td><td>NW, moderate, heavy rain
+and fog</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">20</td><td align="center">39.3</td><td>NW, fresh, fog</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">21</td><td align="center">51.3</td><td>East, SE, clear</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">22</td><td align="center">58.5</td><td>SE, light,
+clear</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">23</td><td align="center">51.6</td><td>West, calm, East, clear</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">24</td><td align="center">45.6</td><td>Calm, variable, clear</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">25</td><td
+align="center">42.0</td><td>West, light. calm, foggy</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">26</td><td align="center">44.3</td><td>Calm, NW, fog</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">27</td><td
+align="center">41.4</td><td>West, NW, moderate, fog</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">28</td><td align="center">43.2</td><td>ENE, light, gloomy</td></tr> <tr><td
+align="center">29</td><td align="center">41.6</td><td>ENE, strong, misty</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">30</td><td align="center">40.3</td><td>ENE, fresh, moderate,
+clear</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">31</td><td align="center">42.7</td><td>NE, moderate, clear, fresh and foggy</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">Mean</td><td align="center">47.61</td><td></td><td></td></tr> <tr><td align="center"><br />Aug.</td><td align="center"></td><td></td><td></td></tr> <tr><td align="center">1</td><td align="center">42.0</td><td>NE,
+gale, foggy</td><td rowspan="7">Between Icy<br />Reef &amp; Flaxman's<br />Island, lat.<br />69&deg; 44' &amp;
+70&deg; 11' N.,<br /> long. 141&deg; 30' &amp;<br />145&deg; 50' W.</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">2</td><td align="center">44.6</td><td>ENE,
+strong, moderate, clear</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">3</td><td align="center">44.1</td><td>ENE, moderate, clear</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">4</td><td align="center">40.7</td><td>East, moderate,
+clear</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">5</td><td align="center">42.6</td><td>Calm, WbyN, moderate</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">6</td><td align="center">43.2</td><td>Calm, ESE, light, clear</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">7</td><td align="center">42.8</td><td>ENE,
+fresh, clear</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">8</td><td align="center">42.9</td><td>ENE, strong, fog</td><td rowspan="8">Foggy Island,<br /> lat. 70&deg; 16' N.<br
+/>longitude<br />147&deg;30' W.</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">9</td><td align="center">41.6</td><td>NE, strong, fog</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">10</td><td align="center">39.5</td><td>ENE, strong, fog</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center">11</td><td align="center">41.1</td><td>NE, moderate, fog</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">12</td><td align="center">41.1</td><td>East, moderate, very foggy</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">13</td><td align="center">41.6</td><td>NE,
+strong, foggy</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">14</td><td align="center">41.3</td><td>ENE, NE, moderate, foggy</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">15</td><td align="center">38.1</td><td>NE, fresh, hazy</td></tr> </table>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_161" id="Page_161">[Pg 161]</a></span></p> <p><small><i>ABSTRACT the Mean Temperature for each Day during the Voyage
+along the Sea Coast west of the Mackenzie, and on the return to Bear
+Lake.</i></small></p>
+
+<table class="lines" width="100%"> <tr><td align="center">1826.<br />Date.</td><td align="center">Daily Mean</td><td>Wind and Weather.</td><td>Situation.</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">Aug.</td><td align="center">&deg;</td><td></td><td></td></tr> <tr><td align="center">16</td><td align="center">35.0</td><td>ENE,
+fresh, foggy</td><td rowspan="3">Return Reef,<br />lat. 70&deg; 26' N.<br />lg. 148&deg; 52' W.</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">17</td><td align="center">37.4</td><td>NE,
+gale, very foggy</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">18</td><td align="center">36.2</td><td>NE, strong, clear</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">19</td><td align="center">36.4</td><td>NE, strong, foggy</td><td rowspan="2">Foggy<br
+/>Island.</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">20</td><td align="center">36.4</td><td>NE, fresh, foggy</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">21</td><td align="center">35.7</td><td>NNE, North, moderate, clear</td><td
+rowspan="9">Between Foggy<br />Island &amp; the<br />Mouth of the<br />Mackenzie, lat.<br
+/>70&deg; 16' and<br />68&deg; 53' N.<br />lon. 147&deg; 38' and<br />136&deg; 19' W.</td></tr> <tr><td
+align="center">22</td><td align="center">37.6</td><td>North, NE, light, clear</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">23</td><td align="center">41.0</td><td>Calm, clear</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">24</td><td
+align="center">39.4</td><td>Calm, clear, foggy in the night</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">25</td><td align="center">41.2</td><td>Calm, fog, NE,
+light, ESE, strong</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">26</td><td align="center">39.6</td><td>WNW, NW, heavy gale, snow, sleet</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">27</td><td align="center">39.8</td><td>Calm,
+ESE, light, clear</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">28</td><td align="center">43.0</td><td>SW, strong, clear</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">29</td><td align="center">52.5</td><td>SSW, heavy gale</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">30</td><td
+align="center">45.6</td><td>NW, Heavy gale, rain</td><td rowspan="2">Mackenzie<br />River.</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">31</td><td align="center">42.4</td><td>Calm, SW,
+gloomy</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">Mean</td><td align="center">40.85</td><td></td><td></td></tr> <tr><td align="center"><br />Sept.</td><td align="center"></td><td></td><td></td></tr> <tr><td align="center">1</td><td align="center">38.3</td><td>NW, gale, snow</td><td rowspan="20">Mackenzie<br />River.</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">2</td><td align="center">38.6</td><td>NW,
+strong, clear</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">3</td><td align="center">41.1</td><td>Calm, moderate, SE, clear</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">4</td><td align="center">41.3</td><td>SE, NW, moderate,
+clear</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">5</td><td align="center">45.9</td><td>SE, light, clear</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">6</td><td align="center">51.0</td><td>Variable, light, clear</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">7</td><td align="center">44.8</td><td>SE, light,
+NW, strong</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">8</td><td align="center">41.0</td><td>NW, strong, snow</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">9</td><td align="center">39.3</td><td>East, moderate, clear</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">10</td><td align="center">45.8</td><td>SE,
+light, clear</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">11</td><td align="center">45.8</td><td>NW, moderate rain</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">12</td><td align="center">37.3</td><td>NW, moderate, gloomy</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">13</td><td
+align="center">37.2</td><td>Calm, SE, light, clear</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">14</td><td align="center">37.9</td><td>ESE, moderate, clear</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center">15</td><td align="center">42.7</td><td>Calm, moderate, fresh, gloomy</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">16</td><td align="center">44.5</td><td>Variable, light, gloomy</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">17</td><td
+align="center">39.6</td><td>Variable, moderate, rain</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">18</td><td align="center">29.4</td><td>NW, fresh, gloomy</td></tr> <tr><td
+align="center">19</td><td align="center">24.6</td><td>NW, moderate, gloomy</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">20</td><td align="center">29.2</td><td>ESE, fresh, clear</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">21</td><td
+align="center">31.1</td><td>ENE, fresh, clear</td><td>Fort Franklin.</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">Mean</td><td align="center">39.22</td><td></td><td></td></tr> </table>
+
+<p><small>NOTE.&mdash;The thermometer used in this register, was compared with
+those in use at Fort Franklin during ten days after our return, and
+found to coincide with them.</small></p> <p>&nbsp;</p> <div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_3_3" id="Footnote_3_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_3_3"><span class="label">[3]</span></a> I have recently learned, by letter from Captain Beechey, that the
+barge turned back on the 25th of August, having been several days beset
+by the ice. He likewise informs me, that the summer of 1827 was so
+unfavourable for the navigation of the northern coast of America, that
+the Blossom did not reach so high a latitude as in the preceding year;
+nor could his boat get so far to the east of Icy Cape, by one hundred
+miles. The natives, he says, were numerous, and, in some instances,
+ill-disposed.</p></div> </div>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" /> <p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_162" id="Page_162">[Pg 162]</a></span></p> <h2><a
+name="DR_RICHARDSONS_NARRATIVE_OF_THE_PROCEEDINGS_OF_THE_EASTERN_DETACHMENT"
+id="DR_RICHARDSONS_NARRATIVE_OF_THE_PROCEEDINGS_OF_THE_EASTERN_DETACHMENT"></a>DR.
+RICHARDSON'S NARRATIVE</h2> <h4>OF THE PROCEEDINGS OF THE EASTERN DETACHMENT<br />OF
+THE EXPEDITION.</h4>
+
+<h2>CHAPTER I.</h2>
+
+<p><small>Leave Point Separation and descend the Eastern Channel of the
+Mackenzie&mdash;Arrive at Sacred Island&mdash;Esquimaux
+Graves&mdash;Interview with the Natives; their thievish
+disposition&mdash;Attempt to gain possession of the Union&mdash;Heavy
+Gale&mdash;Find Shelter in Refuge Cove&mdash;Low
+Coast&mdash;Mirage&mdash;Stopped by Ice at Point Toker&mdash;Reach the
+Sea.</small></p>
+
+
+<p><span class="sidenotel">July 4th.</span><span class="smcap">The</span> two parties of which the Expedition was composed, having
+spent the evening of the 3rd of July in cheerful conversation about
+their future prospects, prepared to separate on the morning of the 4th.
+By six o'clock all the boats were stowed; and Captain Franklin,
+Lieutenant Back, and their party, had committed themselves to the stream
+in the Lion and Reliance; while the Eastern Detachment, drawn up on the
+beach, cheered them on their departure with three hearty huzzas. The
+voices of our friends were heard in reply until the current had carried
+their boats round a projecting point of land, when we also embarked to
+proceed on our voyage. Our detachment was composed of twelve
+individuals, distributed in two boats, named the Dolphin and Union.</p>
+
+<table cellpadding="10"> <tr> <td align="center"><b>IN THE DOLPHIN.</b></td><td></td> <td align="center"><b>IN THE UNION.</b></td> </tr> <tr> <td> <br />Dr. Richardson.<br /> Thomas Gillet,
+<i>Cockswain</i>.<br /> John M'Lellan, <i>Bowman</i>.<br /> Shadrach Tysoe, <i>Marine</i>.<br /> Thomas
+Fuller, <i>Carpenter</i>.<br /> Ooligbuck, <i>Esquimaux</i>. </td>
+<td>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td> <td> <br />Mr. Kendall.<br /> John
+M'Leay, <i>Cockswain</i>.<br /> George Munroe, <i>Bowman</i>.<br /> Willian Money,
+<i>Marine</i>.<br /> John M'Duffey.<br /> George Harkness. </td> </tr> </table>
+
+<p>The instructions we received were, to trace the coast between the
+Mackenzie and Coppermine Rivers, and to return <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_163" id="Page_163">[Pg 163]</a></span>from the latter
+overland to Great Bear Lake. Ice was the only impediment we dreaded as
+likely to prove an obstacle to the execution of these orders. We knew
+that the direct distance between the two rivers did not amount to five
+hundred miles; and, having provisions for upwards of eighty days stowed
+in the boats, we were determined not to abandon the enterprize on light
+grounds, especially after we had seen the friends that had just parted
+from us embark with so much cheerfulness in their more arduous
+undertaking.</p>
+
+<p>On leaving Point Separation we pulled, for two hours, against the
+current, to regain the entrance of the "Middle Channel," which was first
+explored by Mackenzie, on his way to the sea, in 1798, and more
+perfectly surveyed by Captain Franklin, on his voyage to Garry's Island,
+last autumn. It has a breadth of nearly a mile, and a depth of from
+three to five fathoms; though in one place, where there was a ripple,
+the sounding lead struck against a flat bed of stone in nine feet water.
+Having proceeded about ten miles in this channel, we entered a branch
+flowing to the eastward, with the view of tracing the course of the main
+land. Mackenzie, on his return from the sea by this route, observed many
+trees having their upper branches lopped off by the Esquimaux, and we
+saw several such trees in the course of the day. The lands are low and
+marshy, and inclose small lakes which are skirted by willows. The
+summits of the banks are loaded with drift-timber, showing that they are
+all inundated by the spring floods, except a few sandy ridges which
+bound the principal channels, and which are clothed with well-grown
+white spruce trees. Our voyage amongst these uninteresting flats was
+greatly enlivened by the busy flight and cheerful twittering of the
+sand-martins, which had scooped out thousands of nests in the banks of
+the river, and we witnessed with pleasure their activity in thinning the
+ranks of our most tormenting foes the musquitoes. When our precursor,
+Sir Alexander Mackenzie, passed through these channels on the 10th of
+July, 1789, they were bounded by walls of ice veined with black earth,
+but the present season was so much milder, that the surface of the banks
+was every where thawed.</p>
+
+<p>An hour before noon we put ashore to cook our breakfast, near a clump of
+spruce trees, where several fires had recently been made by a party
+which had left many foot-prints on the sand; probably a horde of
+Esquimaux, on their return from trading with the Indians at the Narrows.
+A thunder storm that obscured the sky, prevented Mr. Kendall from
+ascertaining the latitude at noon, which was the hour we chose for
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_164" id="Page_164">[Pg 164]</a></span>breakfast throughout the voyage, in order to economize time, as
+it was necessary to land to obtain the meridian observation of the sun.
+In the afternoon we continued to descend the same channel, which has a
+smooth and moderately rapid current, and a general depth of two or three
+fathoms. At four <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> we obtained a view of a ridge of land to the
+eastward, which we have since learned is named by the natives the
+Rein-Deer Hills, and at seven encamped near two conical hills of
+limestone, about two hundred feet high, and clothed with trees to their
+tops. The length of the day's voyage was forty-two miles. We selected a
+sandy bank, covered with willows sixteen feet high, for our encamping
+place; and here again we found that a party of Esquimaux had lately
+occupied the same spot, the ashes of their fires being still fresh, and
+the leaves of the willow poles to which they had attached their nets,
+unwithered. Before we retired to bed, the arms were examined, and a
+watch was set; a practice which we kept up for the remainder of the
+voyage. Much rain fell in the night.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenotel">Wednesday, 5th.</span>On the 5th we embarked at four in the morning, and soon
+afterwards, the channel conducting us to the base of the Rein-Deer
+Hills, Mr. Kendall and I ascended an eminence, which was about four
+hundred feet high. Its summit was thinly coated with gravel, and its
+sides were formed of sand and clay, inclosing some beds of brownish-red
+sandstone, and of gray-coloured slate-clay. Clumps of trees grew about
+half way up, but the top produced only a thin wiry grass. At eleven
+<span class="smcap">a.m.</span> we landed to breakfast, and remained on shore until noon, in the
+hope of obtaining an observation for latitude, but the sun was obscured
+by clouds. In the afternoon I had an extensive view from the summit of a
+hill of flat alluvial lands, divided into islands by inosculations of
+the channels of the river, and bounded, at the distance of about forty
+miles to the westward, by the Rocky Mountains. As we advanced to the
+northward, we perceived the trees to diminish in size, becoming more
+scattered, and ascend a shorter way up the sides of the hills, and they
+altogether terminated in latitude 68&deg; 40', in an even line running
+across the islands; though one solitary spruce fir was seen in 68&deg;
+53'. Perhaps the lands to the northward of this abrupt line were too low
+and wet for the growth of the white spruce, the tree which attains the
+highest latitude on this continent.</p>
+
+<p>We pitched our tents for the night on the site of another Esquimaux
+encampment, where a small bit of moose deer's meat was still attached to
+a piece of wood at the fire-place; and we saw, from the tracks of the
+people and dogs in the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_165" id="Page_165">[Pg 165]</a></span>sand, that a party had left the river
+here to cross the Rein-Deer Hills. From information obtained through the
+Sharp-eyed, or Quarreller tribe of Indians, this appears to be one of
+the Esquimaux routes to a large piece of brackish water named Esquimaux
+Lake, and alluded to by Mackenzie in several parts of his narrative. The
+length of our voyage this day was forty-four miles, and our encampment
+was opposite to an island named by Captain Franklin after William
+Williams, Esq., late governor of Prince Rupert's land. We observed here
+an unusually large spruce tree, considering the high latitude in which
+it grew; it measured seven feet in circumference, at the height of four
+feet from the ground. A hole was dug at the foot of the hill, in sandy
+soil, to the depth of three feet without reaching frozen ground.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenote">Thursday, 6th.</span>On the 6th, heavy and continued rain delayed our
+embarkation until ten o'clock in the forenoon, and the weather, during
+the rest of the day, was hazy, with occasional showers of small rain.
+Before leaving the encampment, we lopped the branches from a tree, and
+suspended to it a small kettle, a hatchet, an ice-chisel, and a few
+strings of beads, together with a letter written in hieroglyphics, by
+Mr. Kendall, denoting that a party of white people presented these
+articles to the Esquimaux as a token of friendship.<a
+name="FNanchor_4_4" id="FNanchor_4_4"></a><a href="#Footnote_4_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a> As we advanced, we came to the
+union of several ramifications of the middle channel with the eastern
+branch of the river, and the breadth of the latter increased to two
+miles; its depth of water being rarely less than three fathoms. In
+latitude 69&deg;, the eastern channel of the Mackenzie makes a turn
+round the end of the Rein-deer-hills which terminate there, having
+previously diminished in height to about two hundred feet. At the
+commencement of this turn, there is a small island nearly equal to the
+main land in height, and appearing when viewed from the southward, to be
+a continuation of it. Its position pointing it out to be the one
+described by Mackenzie as possessing "a sacred character," and being
+still a burial place of the Esquimaux, I named it Sacred Island. We saw
+here two recent, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_166" id="Page_166">[Pg 166]</a></span>and several more ancient graves. The bodies
+were wrapped in skins closely covered with drift-wood, and laid with
+their heads to the west; so that the rule mentioned by Captain Lyon in
+his account of Melville peninsula, does not obtain on this part of the
+coast; for there none but the bodies of infants are placed in that
+direction. Various articles, such as canoes, sledges, and fishing nets,
+were deposited near the graves.</p>
+
+<p>Sacred Island is formed entirely of layers of fine sand of different
+colours, covered by a little vegetable mould. One of its sides being
+steeply escarped by the waves, showed its structure completely. Amongst
+the vegetable productions of this spot, we noticed the perennial lupine,
+the narrow-leaved epilobium, and some currant bushes in full flower, and
+growing with great luxuriance. From its summit we had a view of the
+river flowing in many channels, both to the eastward and westward. The
+islands lying in sight to the westward are low, and apparently inundated
+when the river is flooded; but to the eastward, there are many islands
+having hummocks as high as Sacred Island, and judging from those that
+were near, they are, like it, composed of sand. The channels surrounding
+the island appear to be shallow.</p>
+
+<p>After leaving that island, we steered along the main shore to a sandy
+point about four miles distant, and encamped near a very recent resting
+place of a large party of Esquimaux, not fewer than ten fires having
+been made since the heavy rain of the morning. There was also vestiges
+of five or six winter-houses on this point. Richards' Island, which was
+named in honour of the Governor of the Bank of England, forms the
+opposite bank of the channel here, and exhibits, like the neighbouring
+islands, some sandy hummocks and cliffs. The length of the day's voyage
+was twenty-five miles, and our encampment was situated in lat. 69&deg;
+4' N., long. 134&deg; 10' W.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenotel">Friday, 7th.</span>We embarked on the morning on the 7th at four o'clock, in
+cold, hazy weather, and soon came to a point of Richards' Island, on
+which there were four or five Esquimaux tents, with several skin canoes,
+and boats lying on the beach. I had previously arranged that on our
+first interview with the Esquimaux, I was to land with Ooligbuck, whilst
+Mr. Kendall kept the boats afloat ready to lend us such aid as might be
+required; conceiving that this was the best way of inspiring the natives
+with confidence, should they be distrustful, or of securing freedom of
+action to our crews should they prove unfriendly. The muskets were kept
+in the arm-chest out of sight, but ready for instant use. As we drew
+near the point, two women, who were walking along the shore, looked
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_167" id="Page_167">[Pg 167]</a></span>at us with amazement for some minutes, and then ran into the
+tents and alarmed their inmates. Several men instantly rushed out,
+nearly naked, with their bows and quivers in their hands, making furious
+gestures and apparently much frightened. I desired Ooligbuck to speak to
+them, and called to them myself in their own language that we were
+friends; but their terror and confusion was so great, that they did not
+appear to comprehend us. I then took a few beads, files, and knives, in
+my hand, and landing with Ooligbuck, made some presents to the men, and
+told them I was come to trade. The moment I mentioned the word "trade"
+(<i>noow&oelig;rlook</i>), their fears subsided, and they sent away their
+bows, but retained their long knives; those that were clothed thrusting
+them into their pockets or up their sleeves. An old woman who seemed to
+have greater self-possession than the rest, and to understand my meaning
+more readily, ran and fetched some dried fish, for which I gave her
+beads; and the others then began to manifest an eager desire of
+exchanging their fish for any thing that I offered. More people coming
+from the tents, a crowd was formed, who obtained all the trading
+articles I had brought on shore. As their surprise subsided, their
+boldness and clamour increased, and some few of them began again to use
+threatening expressions and gestures, either from a dislike to strangers
+coming into their country, or for the purpose of intimidation and
+extortion. When the interview assumed this disagreeable character,
+Ooligbuck said that they were very bad people, and entreating me to
+embark, took me on his back and carried me on board. At the same time,
+several of the natives ran into the water and attempted to drag the boat
+ashore, but on my calling to them they desisted. One fellow, whose
+countenance, naturally disagreeable, had been rendered hideous by the
+insertion of a large brass thimble into a perforation in the under lip,
+seized upon our tea-kettle, and endeavoured to conceal it under water,
+but being seen from the Union, he was made to return it.</p>
+
+<p>When we left the shore, all the males, twenty-one in number, embarked in
+their small canoes or kaiyacks and accompanied us; and in less than a
+quarter of an hour, the women had struck the tents and embarked them,
+together with their children, dogs, and luggage, in their row boats or
+oomiaks, and were in close pursuit. For a time we proceeded down the
+river together in an amicable manner, bartering beads, steels, flints,
+files, knives, hatchets, and kettles, for fish, adzes, spears, and
+arrows. The natives seemed to have a correct idea of property, and
+showed much tact in their commerce with us; circumstances which have
+been held by an eminent <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_168" id="Page_168">[Pg 168]</a></span>historian to be evidences of a
+considerable progress towards civilization<a name="FNanchor_5_5" id="FNanchor_5_5"></a><a href="#Footnote_5_5" class="fnanchor">[5]</a>. They were particularly
+cautious not to glut the market by too great a display of their stock in
+trade; producing only one article at a time, and not attempting to
+out-bid each other; nor did I ever observe them endeavour to deprive one
+another of any thing obtained in barter or as a present. As is usual
+with other tribes of Esquimaux, they asked our names and told us theirs,
+a practice diametrically opposite to that of the Indians, who conceive
+it to be improper to mention a man's name in his presence, and will not,
+on any account, designate their near relatives, except by some indirect
+phrase. They showed much more curiosity respecting the construction of
+our boats than any of the tribes of Indians we had seen, and expressed
+great admiration of the rudder, soon comprehending its mode of action,
+although it is a contrivance of which they were previously ignorant.
+They were incessant in their inquiries as to the use of every thing they
+saw in our possession, but were sometimes content with an answer too
+brief to afford much explanation; as in the following instance.
+Ooligbuck had lighted his pipe and was puffing the smoke from his mouth,
+when they shouted "<i>ookah, ookah</i>," (fire, fire,) and demanded to be
+told what he was doing. He replied with the greatest gravity,
+"<i>poo-yoo-al-letchee-rawmah</i>" (I smoke); and this answer sufficed. On my
+referring to an Esquimaux vocabulary, Ooligbuck, in answer to their
+questions, told them that the book spoke to me, when they entreated me
+to put it away. I afterwards detected the rogue with the brass thimble
+endeavouring to steal this book, and placed it, as I thought, out of his
+reach; it was missing in the evening, but I never ascertained whether it
+had been purloined by the Esquimaux or had fallen overboard in moving
+some of the stores. Seeing me use my pocket telescope, they speedily
+comprehended its use, and called it "<i>eetee-yawgah</i>" (far eyes) the name
+that they give to the wooden shade which is used to protect their eyes
+from the glare of the snow; and which, from the smallness of its
+aperture, enables them to see distant objects more clearly. Of our
+trading articles, light copper kettles were in the greatest request, and
+we were often asked for the long knives which are used for flinching
+whales. It is creditable to the Esquimaux habits of cleanliness, that
+combs were in great demand, and we saw wooden ones of their own
+manufacture, not dissimilar to ours in form. I distributed
+looking-glasses to some of the young men, but they were mostly returned
+again, although I do not know on what account.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_169" id="Page_169">[Pg 169]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>This party of Esquimaux, being similar in features and dress to the
+tribe seen by Captain Franklin, and not differing materially from the
+Esquimaux inhabiting Melville peninsula which have been so fully
+described by Captains Parry and Lyon, it is not necessary to enter into
+any detail here on those points. Ooligbuck's dialect and theirs differed
+a little, but they mutually understood one another. I observed that they
+invariably sounded the letter <i>m</i> instead of <i>g</i>, when in the middle of
+a word, calling Ooligbuck, Oolimbauk. Ooligbuck's attempts to pronounce
+"Doctor" were sufficiently imperfect, but to our visitors, the word
+seemed utterly unattainable, and they could designate me only by the
+term <i>Eheumattak</i> or chief. They succeeded better with the names of some
+of the men, readily naming Tysoe, and calling Gillet "<i>Hillet</i>." The
+females, as they passed in their oomiaks, bestowed on us some glances
+that could scarcely be misconstrued,&mdash;their manners, in this
+respect, differed widely from those of the Indian women, who have a
+modest and even shy demeanour. Some of the young girls had a
+considerable share of beauty, and seemed to have spared no pains in
+ornamenting their persons. Their hair was turned up in a neat knot, on
+the crown of the head, and a lock or queue, tied by a fillet of beads,
+hung down by the ears, on each side. Mr. Nuttall, in his account of the
+Quapaws or Arkansas, mentions that the unmarried women wear their hair
+braided into two parts, brought round to either ear in a cylindrical
+form and ornamented with beads; and a similar attention to head-dress is
+paid by some of the Indian women inhabiting the borders of the great
+Canada lakes, and also by the Tawcullies or Carriers of New Caledonia;<a
+name="FNanchor_6_6" id="FNanchor_6_6"></a><a href="#Footnote_6_6" class="fnanchor">[6]</a> but the females of all the
+tribes of Indians that we saw in our route through the northern parts of
+the fur countries, suffer their hair to hang loose about their ears,
+and, in general, adorn their persons less than the men of the same
+tribes. The Esquimaux women dressing better, and being required to
+labour less, than the Indian females, may be considered as a proof that
+the former nation has made the greater progress towards civilization;
+and I am of opinion that the Esquimaux would adopt European habits and
+customs much more readily than the Indians.</p>
+
+<p>Though there are many circumstances which widely distinguish the
+Esquimaux from their Indian neighbours, they might all, possibly, be
+traced to the necessity of associating in numbers for the capture of the
+whale, and of laying up large hoards <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_170" id="Page_170">[Pg 170]</a></span>of blubber for winter
+consumption. Thus have they been induced to build villages for their
+common residence, and from thence have originated those social habits
+which are incompatible with the wandering and precarious life of an
+Indian hunter. It would lead, however, to too long a digression, were I
+to enter into details on this subject, and I resume, therefore, the
+narrative of the voyage.<a name="FNanchor_7_7" id="FNanchor_7_7"></a><a href="#Footnote_7_7" class="fnanchor">[7]</a></p>
+
+<p>In the course of the morning we came to several other encampments, one
+of them consisting of nine tents; and each party no sooner learnt who we
+were, than they embarked bag and baggage and followed us. Some of the
+new comers were shy, and kept aloof, but in general they were too
+forward. Emboldened by their increase of numbers, they gradually became
+more daring, and running their kaiyacks alongside, laid hold of the
+boat's gunwale, and attempted to steal any thing within their reach. To
+lessen their opportunities of annoying us, I was obliged to keep the
+crews constantly rowing, for when we attempted to rest, three or four
+fellows would instantly seize the opportunity of lifting the blades of
+the oars and pushing their kaiyacks alongside, whilst others would cling
+on by the bows and quarters, nor could they be dislodged without much
+trouble. They manifested great cunning and dexterity in their pilfering
+attempts, and frequently acted in concert. Thus, one fellow would lay
+hold of the boat with both his hands; and while the coxswain and I were
+disengaging them, his comrade on the other side would make the best use
+of his time in transferring some of our property into his canoe, with
+all the coolness of a practised thief. The smaller things being,
+however, put as well out of the way as possible, and a strict look-out
+kept, they were, in almost every instance, detected; and they restored,
+with the most perfect good humour, every article they had taken, as soon
+as it was demanded, often laughing heartily at their own want of
+address. They succeeded only in purloining a bag of ball, and a
+powder-horn, as <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_171" id="Page_171">[Pg 171]</a></span>the theft was not perceived at the time. I was
+unwilling to check this conduct by a display of arms, because I was
+desirous of gaining the natives by kindness and forbearance, the more
+especially, as our ignorance of the state of the ice rendered it
+doubtful, whether we might not be under the necessity of encamping, for
+some time, in their neighbourhood. Had we resented their pilfering
+attempts too hastily, we should have appeared the aggressors, for they
+expressed great good-will towards us, readily answered such questions as
+we were able to put to them about the course of the river, pointed out
+to us the deepest channels, invited us to go ashore to cook our
+breakfast, and even offered to provide us with wives, if we would pass
+the night at their tents. For very obvious reasons we declined all their
+invitations; but our crews being fatigued with continual rowing, and
+faint from want of food, we halted at one <span class="smcap">p.m.</span>, by the side of a steep
+bank, and breakfasted in the boats, insisting on the Esquimaux keeping
+aloof whilst we were so engaged.</p>
+
+<p>In the afternoon we had to search for a passage amongst islands, there
+being no longer water enough near the main shore to float our boats. The
+Esquimaux undertook to guide us, but whether through accident or design,
+they led us, on one occasion, into a shallow channel, where we grounded
+on a sand-bank, over which there was a strong current setting; and we
+had not only much difficulty in getting afloat, but had to pull, for an
+hour, against the stream, to regain the passage we had left. Soon after
+this, one of the natives made a forcible attempt to come into the
+Dolphin, under the pretext of bartering two large knives which he held
+in his hand; and the dexterity with which he leaped from his kaiyack was
+remarkable. There were three other kaiyacks betwixt him and our boats,
+which, on his giving the signal, were, by their owners laying their
+broad paddles across, instantly converted into a platform, over which he
+ran with velocity and sprang upon the stern seat of the Dolphin, but he
+was immediately tumbled out again. Judging from the boldness of this
+fellow's behaviour, and the general tenour of the conduct of the
+natives, that sooner or later they might be tempted to make an attack
+upon us, I adopted, as a measure of precaution, the plan of purchasing
+their bows, which are their most powerful weapons. They were at first
+unwilling to part with them; but finding that we would take nothing else
+in exchange for the articles we had to dispose of, they ultimately let
+us have a good number. The Esquimaux bows are formed of spruce-fir,
+strengthened on the back by cords made of the sinews of the rein-deer,
+and would <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_172" id="Page_172">[Pg 172]</a></span>have been prized, even beyond their favourite yew, by
+the archers of Sherwood. They are far superior to the bows of the
+Indians, and are fully capable of burying "the goose-wing of a
+cloth-yard shaft" in the heart of a deer.</p>
+
+<p>Several of the young men tried the speed of their kaiyacks against our
+boats, and seemed to delight in showing us how much their little vessels
+excelled ours in velocity. Towards evening the women's oomiaks had all
+gone ahead, and we were given to understand that they were about to
+encamp for the night. Thinking that they would choose the best route, we
+followed them into a channel, which proved too shallow; and when we put
+about to try another, the natives became more urgent than ever that we
+should land and encamp along with them. Just as we were about to enter a
+passage which the Esquimaux, doubtless, knew was deep enough, and led by
+the shortest route to the sea, the Union grounded upon a bank, about
+half a bow-shot from the shore. Seven or eight of the natives instantly
+jumped out of their kaiyacks, and laying hold of the boat's bow and
+steering-sweep, attempted to drag her ashore. They were speedily joined
+by others, who hurried from the beach with knives in their hands; and
+Mr. Kendall seeing that he would almost immediately be surrounded by a
+force too great to permit his men to act, called to me that he should be
+obliged to fire. Fully aware of the necessity of prompt measures, I
+answered that he was at liberty to fire if necessary. Upon which,
+snatching up his fowling-piece, he presented it at three of the most
+daring who had hold of the sweep-oar, and his crew who were now in the
+water endeavouring to shove the boat off, and struggling with the
+natives, jumped on board and seized their muskets. The crew of the
+Dolphin likewise displayed their arms and stood ready, but I ordered
+that no individual should fire until called upon by name. They were,
+however, the instant that a shot was fired from the Union, to lay the
+Dolphin aground alongside of her, that thus we might present only two
+assailable sides to the enemy. Happily there was no occasion to fire at
+all; the contests of the Esquimaux with the Indians had taught them to
+dread fire-arms, and on the sudden sight of every man armed with a
+musket, they fled to the shore. Until that moment we had kept our guns
+carefully concealed in the arm-chest, to prevent any of the natives from
+snatching them away and disarming us, and also that they might not deem
+our intentions to be other than pacific.</p>
+
+<p>I do not believe that the natives had matured a plan of attack, but the
+stranding of a boat on their own shore was too <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_173" id="Page_173">[Pg 173]</a></span>great a
+temptation to be resisted. Some individuals had previously shown
+unequivocal signs of good feeling towards us, such as bringing back the
+Union's sweep-oar, which had slipped from the coxswain's hands; and also
+in pointing out the channel we afterwards pursued to the sea, as
+preferable to the one which the oomiaks had taken. Even the
+better-disposed, however, would, doubtless, have joined the others, had
+they began to plunder with success; for they told us in the forenoon
+that there was no one of their horde acknowledged as a chief. It is
+probable that the Esquimaux were doubtful as to the sex of some of our
+party, until they saw them prepare for battle. None but women row in
+their oomiaks, and they had asked Ooligbuck if all the white women had
+beards.</p>
+
+<p>The crews on this occasion behaved with a coolness and resolution worthy
+of the utmost praise, executing without the slightest confusion the
+orders they received. Mr. Kendall acted with his usual judgment; and his
+prudence and humanity, in refraining from firing, merit the highest
+encomiums. The Union being speedily set afloat by her crew, we pulled
+together through a wide channel, three feet deep. The spot where this
+transaction took place has been named Point Encounter, and is in
+latitude 69&deg; 16' N., and longitude 136&deg; 20' W.</p>
+
+<p>The Esquimaux seemed to hold a consultation on the beach after we left
+them; but, as none attempted to follow us immediately, we enjoyed the
+respite from their forwardness and clamour, which had become very
+harrassing, particularly to Mr. Kendall and myself, who had other duties
+to attend to. He had full occupation in surveying and delineating the
+route; and as the Dolphin led the way through a shoal and intricate
+navigation, it was requisite that I should keep the sounding-lead
+constantly going, and be on the watch for any change in the appearance
+of the current which might indicate shoal water, the smallness of our
+crews preventing me from appointing any man to that service. In about an
+hour after leaving Point Encounter, we observed ten kaiyacks coming
+towards us from a cluster of islands; they soon overtook us, but kept at
+a reasonable distance, and no longer gave us any trouble by coming
+alongside. We wished to show that we had no desire to hurt them,
+notwithstanding their past conduct, and, therefore, began again to trade
+with them; yet we were naturally anxious that they should leave us
+before we encamped, because, from the fleetness of their kaiyacks, they
+could soon collect a great number of their countrymen, and give us much
+annoyance in the night. Our wishes were seconded by a fresh breeze of
+wind springing up and enabling us to set the sails, by which the crews
+enjoyed<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_174" id="Page_174">[Pg 174]</a></span> a rest, after fourteen hours' labour at the oars; and
+the Esquimaux had greater difficulty in keeping up with the increased
+velocity of our boats. Thinking that they would quit us as soon as they
+lost the hope of getting more goods, I desired Ooligbuck to tell them I
+would trade no more, and they accordingly, one by one, dropped behind
+and left us. Three followed us longer than the others, and as they were
+not of the party which attacked the Union, and had hitherto received
+nothing from us, I made each of them a small present of beads and
+fire-steels, when they also took leave, calling out "<i>teymah,
+peechaw-ooloo</i>," "friendship is good."</p>
+
+<p>We learned in the course of the day, from the natives, that they call
+themselves <i>Kitte-garr&oelig;-oot</i>, (inhabitants of the land near the
+mountains,) and that they were now on their way to a place favourable
+for the capture of white whales, as in the sea, which they said was many
+days' march distant, there was too much ice to take the black whales at
+this season. It also appeared that they annually ascend to the Narrows
+of Mackenzie River, for the purpose of trading with the Quarrellers, and
+were accustomed to spend their summers in a large lake of brackish
+water, (Esquimaux Lake,) lying to the eastward, where they occasionally
+meet parties of Loucheux. They informed us that the land to the eastward
+of Encounter Point is a collection of islands, and that there were many
+of their countrymen fishing in the rivers which separate them. They had
+heard of the Esquimaux at the mouth of the Coppermine River, and knew
+them by their name of <i>Nagg&oelig;-ook-tor-m&oelig;-oot</i>, (or
+Deer-horns,) but said they were very far off, and that they had no
+intercourse with them; adding, that all the inhabitants of the coast to
+the eastward were bad people. They knew white people by the name of
+<i>Kabloonacht</i>, and Indians by that of <i>Eitkallig</i>, the same appellations
+that are used by the Esquimaux of Hudson's Bay; but their name for the
+black whale was different from that given to it by Ooligbuck; and they
+also gave names to some of their utensils which he had never heard
+before. Ooligbuck was not of much use as an interpreter, in our
+intercourse with these people, for he spoke no English; but his presence
+answered the important purpose of showing that the white people were on
+terms of friendship with the distant tribes of Esquimaux. As a boatman
+he was of the greatest service, being strongly attached to us,
+possessing an excellent temper, and labouring cheerfully at his oar.</p>
+
+<p>We could not ascertain the numbers of Esquimaux we saw in the course of
+the day, because they were always coming and going, but we passed at
+least thirty tents, and had reason to believe that on some of the
+islands there were tents which <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_175" id="Page_175">[Pg 175]</a></span>we did not see. Four grown people
+is, perhaps the average number of the inhabitants of each tent. A short
+time before the attack on the Union, I counted forty kaiyacks round the
+two boats.</p>
+
+<p>The wind freshened, and the night began to look stormy, as we stood
+across a wide sound which was open from the N.W. to the N.E., and had a
+depth of water varying from three to seven feet. White whales were seen;
+and some of the crew thought the water tasted brackish. About nine <span class="smcap">p.m.</span>
+a drizzling rain came on, attended with very dark weather, which induced
+us to make for a round islet, with a view of encamping, and securing the
+boats for the night; it was skirted by shoals that prevented us from
+landing, and we therefore anchored the boats by poles stuck in the mud,
+raised the coverings of the cargo on masts and oars, so as to turn off
+the rain; and after eating our supper and setting a watch, we
+endeavoured to get some repose by lying down in our clothes, wet as they
+were. We had scarcely laid down, however, before the wind changed and
+began to blow with violence directly on the shore, so as to render it
+necessary for us to shift our situation without delay. An attempt was
+made to row the boats round to the other side of the islet, but they
+drifted upon the shoals in spite of the exertions of the crew, and began
+to strike violently. <span class="sidenote">Saturday, 8th.</span>In this perilous situation we
+perceived some smooth water to leeward, upon which setting the
+foresails, the boats were pushed over a sandy bar into two fathoms
+water. We then stood towards the eastern shore, and keeping in deep
+water, entered a small inlet, which received the name of Refuge Cove;
+where having made fast the boats to the beach, pitched a tent on the
+shore, and set a watch, we attempted a second time to obtain some rest.</p>
+
+<p>We were not, however, destined to enjoy much repose that night, for we
+had scarcely overcome the chilliness occasioned by lying down in wet
+clothes, when the Union broke from her moorings in a violent gust of
+wind, and began to drive across the inlet towards the lee-shore, on
+which there was a considerable surf. Mr. Kendall and one of the crew,
+who were sleeping on board, to be ready in case of accident, lowered the
+covering with the utmost expedition, and taking the oars, kept her from
+driving far, until the rest of the party arrived to their assistance in
+the Dolphin. The boats were brought to the beach and secured, and we had
+again retired to rest, when the tent-pegs, although loaded with drift
+timber, were drawn up by the force of the wind, and the tent, drenched
+with rain, fell <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_176" id="Page_176">[Pg 176]</a></span>upon us. It was in vain to attempt to sleep
+after this, benumbed as we were by the coldness of the weather; but the
+rain ceasing about four in the morning of the 8th, we were enabled to
+make a good fire, and dry our clothes. The cargo of the boats was then
+landed, the wet packages spread out to dry, and the boats were drawn
+upon the beach so as to form, with the baggage, a three-sided
+breast-work, to which we could retreat, should the Esquimaux pay us a
+hostile visit. These arrangements being made, the tent was removed to a
+more sheltered spot, and we slept quietly until ten o'clock in the
+morning. In the night an accident happened to Mr. Kendall, which might
+have had fatal consequences, and alarmed us at the time exceedingly. The
+point of a small two-edged knife which he wore in a sheath slung from
+his neck, was, by his falling against one of the tent-poles, forced
+through the sheath into his side, exactly in the region of the heart.
+Through the mercy of Providence, its progress was arrested by one of the
+ribs, and the wound healed in the course of a few days. At noon a
+meridian observation was obtained, which placed the mouth of Refuge Cove
+in latitude 69&deg; 29' N.; and the sun's bearing showed the variation
+of the magnetic needle to be 49&frac12;&deg; easterly. The length of our
+voyage the preceding day was fifty-seven miles. Refuge Cove has an
+irregular form; its length is about two miles and a half, and its
+greatest width one mile. It is upwards of two fathoms deep at the
+entrance, and for some distance within; but a bar runs from Shoal Islet
+to its north side. Its shores are flat and sandy, but here and there
+hummocks rise abruptly to the height of one hundred feet, resembling the
+downs on the Norfolk coast. The sandy hummocks are bound together by the
+creeping fibrous roots of a species of grass, named <i>Elymus mollis</i>; and
+many of them are covered by a coat of black vegetable mould. Ruins of
+Esquimaux houses, that appeared to have been deserted for many years,
+were scattered along the borders of the cove, and much drift-timber lay
+on the low grounds. We saw some ducks and geese, and two of the crew
+went to hunt round the harbour for deer, but they had no success.</p>
+
+<p>The wind having moderated in the evening, we prepared to resume the
+voyage, and had begun to load the boats, when I thought I saw a
+<i>kaiyack</i> paddle across the mouth of the cove. It was followed by many
+others, that were in succession lost behind the point, with the
+exception of one which seemed to return and look into the inlet. I
+concluded that the natives were in search of us; and, as it was
+desirable to have all the cargo on board when they arrived, the utmost
+despatch was <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_177" id="Page_177">[Pg 177]</a></span>used in loading the boats. Before this operation
+was completed, Mr. Kendall, on attentively examining one of the objects
+with his telescope, suggested that it was not a kaiyack; and
+accompanying me to a sandy eminence nearer the entrance of the cove, we
+ascertained that the whole was an optical deception, caused by the haze
+of an easterly wind magnifying the stumps of drift wood, over which the
+surf was rolling. The imagination, no doubt, assisted in completing the
+resemblance, but the deception, for a few minutes, was perfect.</p>
+
+<p>We quitted Refuge Cove at nine o'clock in the evening, and rounding
+Shoal Islet, steered to the northward along the coast. The circuit of
+Shoal Islet was made because there was too little water to float our
+boats over the bar, which we had crossed the preceding evening. The
+temperature of the air on leaving the cove, was 36&deg;, but it fell at
+midnight to 32&deg;; and the night proved fine. When resting on our
+oars, the boats were drifted to the westward, by a current which we
+ascertained, by subsequent observations, to be the flood tide.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenote">Sunday, 9th.</span>After pulling along the coast for some time, the ice-blink
+appeared in the horizon, and about one o'clock in the morning on the
+9th, we could perceive a stream of ice lying at the distance of eight or
+nine miles from the shore, and inclosing several small icebergs. At four
+o'clock, a northerly breeze springing up, brought a quantity of loose
+ice down upon us, and we made for the shore. This part of the coast is
+skirted to the distance of two miles by flat sands, on which there is
+not more than a foot or eighteen inches of water. The depth of water
+gradually increases to four fathoms, which it attains at the distance of
+six or seven miles from the shore, and the heavy ice we saw outside,
+showed that the depth there was considerable. Esquimaux winter-huts
+occur frequently on the coast, and the rows of drift-trees planted in
+the sand with the roots uppermost, in their vicinity, assume very
+curious forms, when seen through a hazy atmosphere. They frequently
+resembled a crowd of people, and sometimes we fancied they were not
+unlike the spires of a town just appearing above the horizon. We learnt
+by experience that the shore was more approachable at the points on
+which the Esquimaux had built, and we effected a landing at one of those
+places, when, having discharged the cargoes, we hauled the boats up, and
+pitched the tents. The water at our landing-place was fresh, but too
+hard to make tea; and at four or five miles from the shore, it was
+disagreeable to drink. Out of respect to Captain Toker of the Royal
+Navy, under whom I had once the honour to serve, his name was given to
+this Point. <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_178" id="Page_178">[Pg 178]</a></span>Mr. Kendall ascertained its latitude to be 69&deg;
+38' N.; its longitude by reckoning, 132&deg; 18' W.; and the variation
+of the magnetic needle 50&frac12; degrees easterly. The distance rowed
+from Refuge Cove was about twelve miles. A tide pole was erected, by
+which it appeared that the ebb ran from four o'clock, the time at which
+we landed, until ten in the morning, producing a fall of eighteen
+inches; but the afternoon tide did not rise so high, and at 10h. 50
+minutes <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> it was low water again, the wind blowing fresh from the
+northward all the time.</p>
+
+<p>The vicinity of Point Toker, like the rest of the lands to the eastward
+of Point Encounter, consists of level sands, inclosing pieces of water
+which communicate with the estuary of the river, and interspersed with
+detached conical hills rising from one to two hundred feet above the
+general level. These hills are sometimes escarped by the action of the
+water, and are then seen to consist of sand of various colours, in which
+very large logs of drift-timber are imbedded. They are covered by a coat
+of black vegetable earth, from six inches to a foot in thickness, which
+shows that they cannot be of very recent formation, though at some
+distant period they may have been formed by the drifting of moveable
+sands. At present, the highest floods reach only to the foot of the
+hills, where they deposit a thick layer of drift-timber. One straight
+log of spruce fir, thirty feet long, was seven feet in circumference at
+the small end, and twelve a short distance above the root. The branches
+and bark are almost always rubbed off from the drift-timber which
+reaches the sea, but a few of the main divisions of the root are
+generally left. Various instruments tied up in bundles were suspended to
+poles near some of the Esquimaux houses, such as spear-heads and ice
+chisels made from the tooth of the narwhal, and spoons of musk-ox horn.
+The marine animals that frequent this part of the coast, according to
+the information we obtained from the Esquimaux, are, the white whale,
+the narwhal, large and small seals, (<i>ogg&oelig;-ook</i> and
+<i>nat-ch&oelig;-ook</i>,) and a species of black whale, named
+<i>aggee-w&oelig;rk</i>. There are also many sea-fish, of which the capeline
+(<i>ang-mag-g&oelig;-ook</i>,) that abound on the shoals at this season, are
+most easily caught. The natives are unacquainted with sea-horses. Swans,
+Canada and white geese, and Arctic ducks, are numerous, and we killed
+several. Ooligbuck likewise killed a rein-deer, which afforded us an
+agreeable change of diet.</p>
+
+<p>In the evening, having assembled in one of the tents, prayers were read,
+a practice to which we adhered on every Sunday evening during the
+voyage. At 10h. 45m. <span class="smcap">p.m.</span>, I lighted a piece of touchwood with a convex
+lens, an inch in diameter, the altitude<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_179" id="Page_179">[Pg 179]</a></span> of the sun being then
+3&deg; 6'. It is seldom that the sun in warmer climates affords so much
+heat at so low an altitude.</p>
+
+<p>The ice opening a little, we resumed the voyage at five o'clock in the
+morning of the 10th, but had not rowed above five miles, when our
+further progress was impeded by a ridge of grounded-ice, extending
+apparently far out to sea. We landed to obtain a view from a height, and
+took advantage of the opportunity to prepare breakfast. Whilst thus
+engaged, we discovered, on the opposite side of a bay which we had just
+crossed, <span class="sidenote">Monday, 10th.</span>two of the natives couched upon the sand, and
+evidently watching us; but before we had concluded our meal, they went
+off. On re-embarking, we went round the ice which was aground on
+extensive sandy spits, and then pulled in for the shore; but a fresh
+breeze of wind created such a swell, that we did not advance above three
+miles in two hours. Deeming it unadvisable to fatigue the crews, while
+the progress was so small, we pulled into a sandy bay, and made the
+boats fast to one of many large pieces of ice which were stranded on the
+beach, having gained since setting out in the morning, eight miles.</p>
+
+<p>Just as we made for the shore, we observed three Esquimaux regarding us
+from an eminence, and two others soon afterwards joined them: the latter
+being, as we discovered from the direction of their path over the sands,
+the two we had seen at breakfast-time. They retired as we drew near the
+beach, and on reconnoitring the neighbourhood, we discovered three
+skin-tents, whose owners were running off with their effects in great
+alarm. As we had experienced how troublesome the natives were, when
+relieved from their fears, we did not seek an interview at this time;
+and to guard against accidents from parties of them way-laying our men,
+I determined that, while we remained in this anchorage, the crews should
+land only to cook their provisions and then be accompanied either by Mr.
+Kendall or myself. The water at our anchorage was decidedly brackish,
+the beach was strewed with <i>sertulari&aelig;</i> and other marine
+productions, and several white whales were seen in the offing; all which
+circumstances being considered as decided evidences of our having
+reached the mouth of the river, that event was celebrated by issuing to
+each of the men a glass of grog, which had been reserved for the
+occasion.<br /></p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p> <div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_4_4" id="Footnote_4_4"></a><a href="#FNanchor_4_4"><span class="label">[4]</span></a>As the reader may desire to know what hieroglyphics were used to
+express our intentions, a copy of the letter is annexed.</p></div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> <img src="images/165.jpg" width="700" height="187" alt="Hieroglyphics
+used to express our intentions" title="" /> </div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_5_5" id="Footnote_5_5"></a><a href="#FNanchor_5_5"><span class="label">[5]</span></a>Robertson's <i>History of America</i>.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_6_6" id="Footnote_6_6"></a><a href="#FNanchor_6_6"><span class="label">[6]</span></a><i>Harmon's Journal</i>, p. 288.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_7_7" id="Footnote_7_7"></a><a href="#FNanchor_7_7"><span class="label">[7]</span></a>The Esquimaux method of settling disputes, which we learned from
+Augustus, deserves to be mentioned, not only as being very different
+from the sullen conduct of an affronted Indian, but from its coincidence
+with the practice of a people widely separated from them&mdash;the
+native inhabitants of Sydney, in New South Wales. Mr. Cunningham, in his
+entertaining work on New South Wales, says, "The common practice of
+fighting amongst the natives is still with the <i>waddie</i>, each
+alternately stooping the head to receive the other's blows, until one
+tumbles down, it being considered cowardly to evade a stroke." The
+Esquimaux use the fist instead of the waddie, in these singular duels,
+but there is no other difference betwixt their practice and that of the
+New South Wales' people. Another coincidence betwixt the Esquimaux and
+the inhabitants of Australasia, is the use of the throwing stick for
+discharging their spears.</p></div>
+
+</div>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" /> <p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_180" id="Page_180">[Pg 180]</a></span></p> <h4><a
+name="CONTINUATION_OF_THE_PROCEEDINGS_OF_THE_EASTERN_DETACHMENT"
+id="CONTINUATION_OF_THE_PROCEEDINGS_OF_THE_EASTERN_DETACHMENT"></a>CONTINUATION
+OF THE PROCEEDINGS OF THE EASTERN DETACHMENT.</h4>
+
+<h2>CHAPTER II.</h2>
+
+<p><small>Detention by wind&mdash;Visited by Esquimaux&mdash;Cross a large Stream
+of fresh Water&mdash;Winter Houses on Atkinson Island&mdash;Gale of
+Wind, and Fog&mdash;Run into Browell Cove&mdash;Double Cape
+Dalhousie&mdash;Liverpool Bay and Esquimaux Lake&mdash;Icy
+Cliffs&mdash;Meet another Party of Esquimaux&mdash;Cape Bathurst.</small></p>
+
+
+<p><span class="sidenotel">Tuesday, 11th.</span><span class="smcap">The</span> wind blew so strongly during the 11th, that we
+remained in our mooring-place, landing occasionally to take a little
+exercise on the beach; and as it continued to freshen from the
+north-east in the evening, most of the ice in the offing had drifted out
+of sight, while a great reduction took place at the same time in the
+number and size of the pieces of stranded ice. One of them which had
+grounded about a mile outside of us, and rose fifteen feet above the
+water, fell over and floated away with the ebb tide. Mr. Kendall
+obtained a meridian observation for latitude, and afterwards took
+several sets of lunar distances, whose results placed our anchorage in
+latitude 69&deg; 42&frac12;' N., and longitude 131&deg; 58' W. In the
+afternoon two Esquimaux were seen walking fast over a hill, and often
+stopping and looking anxiously around them. About midnight two black
+foxes carried off the scraps of meat that had been left at our
+cooking-place, and buried them carefully in the sand above high-water
+mark. We observed that they dug separate hiding-places for each piece,
+and that they were careful to carry the largest bits farthest from the
+sea. The time spent inactively at the anchorage was so irksome, that
+even the movements of these animals were a subject of much interest to
+us, and we felt great regret when they were scared away by the talking
+of the men in the boats.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenotel">Wednesday, 12th.</span>No material alteration took place in the weather on the
+12th. The temperature was 45&deg;; but from the force of the wind, and
+our confinement in the boats, we felt cold. In the evening two elderly
+Esquimaux came to us in their kaiyacks, shouting as they approached the
+boats, and paddling boldly alongside. They told us that they were the
+same two whom we had seen in the morning of the 10th watching us while
+at breakfast, though they had first discovered us on the 9th, and had
+seen Ooligbuck kill the deer, which had alarmed them greatly; they had
+since been to inquire<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_181" id="Page_181">[Pg 181]</a></span> about us from the party at Point
+Encounter, and having learnt that we were well-disposed, they had come
+to open a communication. In allusion, I suppose, to the attempt on the
+Union, they often said that the Esquimaux at the river's mouth were bad
+people, but that they themselves were good-hearted men; and they struck
+their breasts forcibly with their hands, to give energy to their
+assurances. They told us that a large party of their countrymen, who
+were at present fishing at the mouth of a river to the eastward, would
+soon move in this direction to kill white whales. Eetkoo-yak, the
+principal spokesman, invited us to go to his tents, where he said, the
+women would be glad to receive us; and added, that next day he would
+bring four of his countrymen to visit us. We made them a handsome
+present of iron-work; and having paid, with beads, for some dried fish,
+sent them away highly contented.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenote">Thursday, 13th.</span>At seven o'clock in the morning of the 13th, nine
+Esquimaux came to us, amongst whom were our two acquaintances of
+yesterday. Some of the young men inquired when we were going away, and
+seemed to be anxious that we should depart; but our friend Eetkoo-yak
+gave us a pressing invitation to his tents, and wished to embark in the
+boats to conduct us thither. We declined his proposal, and the wind
+having moderated, we unmoored the boats, and rowed along the coast. The
+natives followed us, and soon afterwards four women and two boys came
+off in an oomiak, and exchanged some boots, pieces of leather, deer's
+meat, and fish for beads. The point on which their tents were pitched
+was named Point Warren after my friend Captain Samuel Warren, R.N. As we
+continued our course the oomiak returned to the shore, and the men also
+left us soon afterwards, apparently pleased with our departure; for the
+knowledge of the effect of our muskets seemed to have impressed them
+with some dread. They were tattooed across the cheeks. The tribes to the
+westward of the Mackenzie are described by Captain Franklin, (p. 111,)
+as following a different fashion in the application of this ornament.</p>
+
+<p>We coasted this day a flat shore, with dry sands running off to the
+distance of two or three miles, and we passed within several shoals, on
+which some heavy ice had grounded. Only a few small streams of ice were
+seen, although the ice-blink was visible the whole day. Soon after
+rounding Point Warren, we crossed the mouth of a large river, the water
+being muddy and fresh for a breadth of three miles, and the sounding
+lead was let down to the depth of five fathoms, without striking the
+bottom. This river is, perhaps, a branch of the Mackenzie, and falls
+into a bay, on which I have bestowed the name of my esteemed friend
+Copland Hutchinson, Esq. Surgeon Extraor<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_182" id="Page_182">[Pg 182]</a></span>dinary to His Royal
+Highness the Duke of Clarence. On its east side there is an island,
+which was named after Captain Charles Phillips, R.N. to whom the
+nautical world is indebted for the double-capstan, and many other
+important inventions.</p>
+
+<p>At five o'clock in the afternoon, rainy weather setting in, we made for
+a small island, and mooring the boats as near the beach as we could,
+covered them up, and landed to prepare supper. The length of the day's
+voyage was twenty-eight miles and a half. Mr. Kendall named the island
+in honour of Mr. Atkinson, of Berry-House; it is situated in latitude
+69&deg; 55' N., longitude 130&deg; 43' W., and is separated from a flat,
+and occasionally inundated shore, by a narrow creek. It is bounded
+towards the sea by a bulwark of sand-hills, drifted by the wind to the
+height of 30 feet. Under their shelter 17 winter-houses have been
+erected by the natives besides a large building which from its
+structure, seemed to be intended for a place of assembly for the tribe.
+Ooligbuck thought it was a general eating-room, but he was not certain,
+as his tribe erect no such buildings.</p>
+
+<p>I annex a section and ground plan of one of the largest of the
+dwelling-houses. The centre (A) is a square of ten feet, having a level
+flooring, with a post at each corner (D,D) to support the ridge-poles,<a
+name="FNanchor_8_8" id="FNanchor_8_8"></a><a href="#Footnote_8_8" class="fnanchor">[8]</a> on which the roof rests. The
+recesses (B) are intended for sleeping-places. Their floors have a
+gentle inclination inwards, and are raised a foot above the central
+flooring. Their back walls are a foot high, and incline outwards like
+the back of a chair. The ridge-poles are six feet above the floor, the
+roof being flat in the centre, and sloping over the recesses. The inside
+of the building is lined with split-wood, and the outside is strongly
+but roughly built of logs, the whole being covered with earth. An
+inclined platform (C) forms the ascent to the door, which is in the
+middle of one of the recesses, and is four feet high; and the threshold,
+being on a level with the central flooring, is raised three feet above
+the surrounding ground, to guard against inundations. There is a square
+hole in the roof, near the door, intended for ventilation, or for an
+occasional entrance. As we observed no fire-places in these dwellings,
+it is probable that they are heated, and the cookery performed in the
+winter, with lamps. Some of the houses were built front to front, with a
+very narrow passage between them leading to the doors, which were
+opposite to each other. This passage must form a snug porch in the
+winter when it is covered with slabs of frozen snow, and one end stopped
+up. Some of the larger houses which stood single, had log-porches to
+shelter their doors; and near each house there was a square or oblong
+pit, four feet <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_183" id="Page_183">[Pg 183]</a></span>beneath the surface of the ground, lined and
+covered with drift timber, which was evidently intended for a
+store-house.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 700px;"> <img src="images/183.jpg" width="700" height="892" alt="Winter-house"
+title="" /> </div>
+
+<p>The large building for an assembly-room was, in the interior, a square
+of 27 feet, having the log-roof supported on two strong ridge poles, two
+feet apart, and resting on four upright posts. The floor in the centre,
+formed of split logs, dressed and laid with great care, was surrounded
+by a raised border about three feet wide, which was, no doubt, meant for
+seats. The walls, three feet high, were inclined outwards, for the
+convenience of leaning the back against them, and the ascent to the
+door, which was on the south side was formed of logs. The outside,
+covered with earth, had nearly a hemispherical form, and round <span class='pagenum'><a
+name="Page_184" id="Page_184">[Pg 184]</a></span>its base there were ranged the
+skulls of 21 whales. There was a square hole in the roof, and the
+central log of the floor had a basin-shaped cavity, one foot in
+diameter, which was, perhaps, intended for a lamp. The general attention
+to comfort in the construction of the village, and the erection of a
+building of such magnitude, requiring a union of purpose in a
+considerable number of people, are evidences of no small progress
+towards civilization. Whale skulls were confined to the large building,
+and to one of the dwelling-houses, which had 3 or 4 placed round it.
+Many wooden trays, and hand-barrows for carrying whale blubber, were
+lying on the ground, most of them in a state of decay.</p>
+
+<p>Myriads of musquitoes, which reposed among the grass, rose in clouds
+when disturbed, and gave us much annoyance. Many snow birds were
+hatching on the Point, and we saw swans, Canada geese, eider, king,
+arctic, and surf ducks; several glaucous, silvery, black-headed, and
+ivory gulls, together with terns and northern divers. Some laughing
+geese passed to the northward in the evening, which may be considered as
+a sure indication of land in that direction. The sea-water at Atkinson
+Island being quite salt, and the ponds on the shore brackish, we had
+recourse to the ice that lay aground for a supply of fresh water. Strong
+gales of wind, with heavy rain, continued all night.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenotel">Friday, 14th.</span>The rain ceasing at four o'clock in the morning of the
+14th, we embarked, and pulled along a sandy bar which projected five or
+six miles from Atkinson Island, and was covered by masses of ice. We
+had not left the beach above an hour, when a thick fog hid the land from
+our view, and a noise of breakers being at the same time heard, we
+deemed it prudent to moor the boats to a piece of grounded ice, and wait
+for clear weather. After a time, the fog dispersing partially, we made
+sail before a fresh breeze towards the most easterly point of land in
+sight, but we had not advanced above five or six miles before the
+looming of the shore on the larboard bow made it necessary to haul to
+the wind; and the fog becoming as dense as ever, we ran aground on some
+flats, where the surf nearly filled the boats. On lowering the sails,
+deeper water was attained, but the wind began to blow hard directly upon
+the shore, and we could not discover a landing-place, nor did we even
+know our distance from the beach. In this dilemma we saw a long line of
+floating sea-weed, and Ooligbuck suggesting that it came from the mouth
+of a river, we followed its direction, and, with the aid of the sounding
+lead, groped our way betwixt two shoals into a well sheltered inlet.
+Here there was a good landing-place, and we deemed ourselves peculiarly
+fortunate in reaching so snug a harbour, for the fog continued all day,
+and the wind increased to a heavy gale.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_185" id="Page_185">[Pg 185]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The inlet was named Browell Cove, in honour of the Lieutenant-Governor
+of the Royal Hospital at Greenwich, and the bay to the westward of it,
+M'Kinley Bay, out of respect to Captain George M'Kinley, of the Naval
+Asylum. The latitude of the mouth of Browell Cove is 70&deg; N., and the
+longitude 130&deg; 19' W. We did not ascertain its extent, but as its
+water is brackish, it probably communicates with Esquimaux Lake, which,
+according to Indian report, lies behind the islands that form this part
+of the coast. Several large basins of salt water communicate with the
+cove. Some herds of deer were seen, but too many hunters going in
+pursuit of them they were frightened away. The temperature throughout
+the day was 42&deg;.</p>
+
+<p>I observed forty species of plants in flower here, of which nearly
+one-third were grasses and carices. The Thrift common on the sandy parts
+of the British coast is a frequent ornament of Browell Cove; and seven
+or eight of the other plants seen there, are natives of the Scottish
+hills. Two dwarf species of willows were the only shrubs.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenote">Saturday, 15th.</span>The fog clearing away, and the wind moderating, we
+embarked about three in the morning of the 15th; and steering along the
+coast, came to a group of low sandy islands, that were separated by wide
+but very shallow channels, and skirted, to the distance of five or six
+miles, by sand-banks, which were nearly dry at low water. In rounding
+these banks our soundings varied from two feet to two fathoms, and we
+were occasionally led almost out of sight of the land. During the whole
+day we saw much ice to seaward, and in some places it was so closely
+packed as to render it doubtful whether a ship would have been able to
+make way through it. The line of deep water was marked by large masses
+of ice lying aground, and was about ten miles from the shore. As we
+could not reach the beach, we disembarked upon a piece of ice at noon,
+and cutting up a spare seat for fire-wood, proceeded to cook our
+breakfast, and make observations for latitude and magnetic variation.</p>
+
+<p>After rounding the shoals, we made a traverse of ten miles across an
+inlet, where the water ran out with a strong current; and, though five
+fathoms deep, it was nearly fresh. This I supposed to be another
+communication betwixt Esquimaux Lake and the sea, and named it Russel
+Inlet, after the distinguished Professor of Clinical Surgery in the
+University of Edinburgh. The land on its western side was called Cape
+Brown, out of respect to the eminent botanist, whose scientific
+researches reflect so much credit on British talent; and that to <span class='pagenum'><a
+name="Page_186" id="Page_186">[Pg 186]</a></span>the eastward of the inlet received
+the name of Dalhousie, in honour of His Excellency the Governor-in-Chief
+of the Canadas. Cape Dalhousie consists of a number of high, sandy
+islands, resembling those seen from Sacred Island, in the mouth of the
+Mackenzie. We entered some deep inlets amongst them, in search of a
+landing-place, but the beach was every where too flat. At length, after
+dragging the boats through the mud for a considerable way, and carrying
+the cargoes for a quarter of a mile over a flat sand, we reached the
+shore, and pitched the tents. The island on which we encamped was
+similar to the others, being from one hundred to one hundred and fifty
+feet high above the water, and bounded on all sides by steep, sandy
+cliffs, which were skirted by flat sands. From the summit of the island
+we had the unpleasant view of a sea covered with floating ice, as far as
+the eye could reach to the eastward. Temperature during the greater part
+of the day 55&deg;; at nine <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> 52&deg;. Wind easterly. The length of
+this day's voyage was thirty miles and a half; the latitude of the
+encampment 70&deg; 12', and longitude 129&deg; 21' W.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenotel">Sunday, 16th.</span>On the 16th the boats were afloat, and loaded by seven in
+the morning, when we pulled round Cape Dalhousie, and found the land
+trending as we wished to the south-east. Since reaching the sea, the
+coast had gradually inclined to the northward, which with the increased
+quantity of ice seen on the two or three last days, led us to fear that
+a cape might exist, extending so far to the northward, as to prevent us
+from reaching the Coppermine River within the period to which our voyage
+was limited. It was, therefore, with peculiar satisfaction, that, on
+putting ashore to cook breakfast, we saw distant land to the S.E.,
+apparently of greater height than that which we had recently coasted;
+and we now flattered ourselves that we were about to leave behind us the
+low coasts and shoals, which render the boat navigation across the
+mouths of the Mackenzie and Esquimaux Lake so perplexing and hazardous.
+Many deer were seen at our breakfasting-place, and the musquitoes
+annoyed them so much that there would have been no difficulty in
+approaching them, if we could have spared time to send out the hunters.</p>
+
+<p>Having obtained an observation for latitude, we directed our course to a
+projecting point across an inlet, with no land visible towards its
+bottom. The soundings in the middle of the opening exceeded nine
+fathoms; the water became less salt as we advanced, and at last could
+only be termed brackish. The point proved to be an Island sixteen miles
+distant from our breakfasting-place; and as we approached it, we had the
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_187" id="Page_187">[Pg 187]</a></span>mortification to perceive a coast seven or eight miles beyond
+it, apparently continuous, and trending away to the north-north-west.
+The island was named Nicholson Island, as a mark of my esteem for
+William Nicholson, Esq., of Rochester. It is bounded by high cliffs of
+sand and mud, and rises in the interior to the height of four hundred
+feet above the sea. The cliffs were thawed to the depth of three feet,
+but frozen underneath, and the water issuing from the thawing ground
+caused the mud to boil out and flow down the banks. There were many
+small lakes on the island, and a tolerably good vegetation. Amongst
+other plants I gathered here a very beautiful American cowslip,
+(<i>dodecatheon</i>,) which grew in the moist valleys. From the summit of the
+island a piece of water, resembling a large river, and bearing south,
+was seen winding through a country pleasantly varied by gently swelling
+hills and dales, and differing so much in character from the alluvial
+islands we had just left, that I thought myself justified in considering
+it to be part of the main land. From S.W. to W.N.W. open water was seen,
+broken only by a few islands, that were named after Major-General
+Campbell, of the Royal Marines. This large sheet of water is undoubtedly
+the Esquimaux Lake, which, according to the natives, not only
+communicates with the eastern branch of the Mackenzie, but receives,
+besides, two large rivers; and, consequently, the whole of the land
+which we coasted from Point Encounter, is a collection of islands. The
+temperature varied this day from 38&deg; to 55&deg;. The length of the
+day's voyage was thirty-three miles, the latitude of our encampment
+69&deg; 57', and longitude 128&deg; 18' W.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenote">Monday, 17th.</span>On the 17th a thick fog detained us until nine o'clock in
+the morning, when it dispersed, and we left our encampment. About two
+miles from Nicholson's Island the water was nine fathoms deep, and had a
+brackish taste; but as we continued our course to the northward, it
+became shoaler and salter. This added to the probability of the winding
+channel, which bore south, being a large river; and that opinion was
+further strengthened by our observing, when we landed to breakfast, the
+shore to be strewed with tide-wrack, resembling that which is generally
+found on the banks of rivers in this country, such as pieces of willows,
+fragments of fresh-water plants, and lumps of peat earth. We were
+delighted to find here a beach of sand and fine gravel, bold enough to
+admit of our running the boats upon it. The fresh footsteps of a party
+of Esquimaux were seen on the sand.</p>
+
+<p>After obtaining an observation for latitude, we embarked, and continued
+our course along the coast until we came to the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_188" id="Page_188">[Pg 188]</a></span>extremity of a
+cape, which was formed by an island separated from the main by a shallow
+channel. The cliffs of this island were about forty feet high, and the
+snow which had accumulated under them in the winter, was not yet
+dissolved, but, owing to the infiltration and freezing of water, now
+formed an inclined bank of ice, nearly two-thirds of the height of the
+cliff. This bank, or iceberg, being undermined by the action of the
+waves, maintained its position only by its adhesion to the frozen cliffs
+behind it. In some places large masses had broken off and floated away,
+whilst in others the currents of melting snow floating from the flat
+land above, had covered the ice with a thick coating of earth; so that
+at first sight it appeared as if the bank had broken down; the real
+structure of the iceberg being perceptible only where rents existed. In
+a similar manner the frozen banks, or icebergs, covered with earth,
+mentioned by Lieutenant Kotzebue, in his voyage to Behring Straits,
+might have been formed. Had the whole mass of frozen snow broken off
+from this bank, an iceberg would have been produced thirty feet wide at
+its base, and covered on one side to the depth of a foot, or more, with
+black earth. The island was composed of sand and slaty clay, into which
+the thaw had not penetrated above a foot. The ravines were lined with
+fragments of compact white limestone, and a few dwarf-birches and
+willows grew on their sides. The sun's rays were very powerful this day,
+and the heat was oppressive, even while sitting at rest in the boat; the
+temperature of the air at noon being, in the shade, 62&deg;, and that of
+the surface water, where the soundings were three fathoms, 55&deg;.</p>
+
+<p>Immediately after rounding the cape, which was named after His
+Excellency Sir Peregrine Maitland, Lieutenant-Governor of Upper Canada,
+we entered a channel ten miles wide, running to the eastward, with an
+open horizon in that direction; and a doubt arose as to whether it was a
+strait, or merely a bay. Many large masses of ice were floating in it,
+which proved to us that it had considerable depth; but the water being
+only brackish, excited a suspicion that there was no passage through it.
+While we were hesitating whether to hazard a loss of time by exploring
+the opening, or to cross over at once to the northern land, several deer
+were seen, and the hope of procuring a supply of fresh meat, induced us
+to put ashore and encamp for the night, that the hunters might go in
+chase. The beach here was strewed with fragments of dark-red sandstone,
+white sandstone, white compact limestone, and a few pieces of syenite.
+There were many large trunks of spruce-firs lying on the sand,
+completely denuded of their bark and <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_189" id="Page_189">[Pg 189]</a></span>branches; and numerous
+exuvi&aelig; of a marine crustaceous animal (<i>gammarus borealis</i>) lay at
+high water mark. Our hunters were successful, Ooligbuck and M'Leay each
+killing a deer. Many of these animals had fled to the cool moist sands
+on the coast, but even there the musquitoes tormented them so much as to
+render them regardless of the approach of the hunters. The latitude of
+our encampment was 70&deg; 7', longitude 127&deg; 45'; and the length of
+the day's voyage twenty-three miles. The temperature varied from 52&deg;
+to 63&deg;. By watching the motion of the tide for the greater part of
+the night, I fully satisfied myself that the ebb set out of the opening,
+and that the flood came round the land on the north side; hence I
+concluded that there could be no passage to the eastward in this
+direction, and that the opening led into a bay, to which the name of
+Harrowby was given, in honour of the Right Honourable the Earl of
+Harrowby.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenote">Tuesday, 18th.</span>Embarking on the 18th at three in the morning, we set the
+sails to a favourable though light breeze, and using the oars at the
+same time, crossed Harrowby Bay, at its mouth. During the traverse, land
+was seen round the bottom of the bay. On nearing the shore we
+distinguished twelve Esquimaux tents on an eminence; and a woman who was
+walking on the beach gave the alarm, but not until we were near enough
+to speak to her, her surprise having fixed her to the spot for a time.
+The men then rushed out, brandishing their knives, and, using the most
+threatening expressions, forbade us to land, and desired us to return by
+the way we came. Ooligbuck endeavoured to calm their fears, by telling
+them that we were friends, but they replied only by repeating their
+threats, and by hideous grimaces and gestures, which displayed great
+agility; frequently standing on one foot and throwing the other nearly
+as high as the head. At length on my bawling "<i>noow&oelig;rlawgo</i>," (I
+wish to barter,) they became quiet at once, and one of them running to
+his kaiyack, and paddling off to us, was followed by many of the others,
+even before they could witness the reception we gave him. They came
+boldly alongside, and exchanged their spears, arrows, bows, and some
+pieces of well-dressed seal-skin, for bits of old iron-hoop, files and
+beads. They were not so well furnished with iron-work as the Esquimaux
+we had seen further to the westward, and very eagerly received a supply
+from us. In our intercourse with them we experienced much advantage from
+a simple contrivance suggested by Mr. Kendall, and constructed during
+our halt in Refuge Cove: it was a barricade formed by raising the masts
+and spare oars eighteen inches <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_190" id="Page_190">[Pg 190]</a></span>above the gunwale on two crutches
+or davits, which not only prevented our Esquimaux visitors from stealing
+out of the boats, but, in the event of a quarrel, could have been
+rendered arrow proof by throwing the blankets or sails over it. On a
+light breeze springing up we set the sails, and continuing to ply the
+oars, advanced at the rate of four miles an hour, attended by eleven
+kaiyacks. Three oomiaks with the women followed us, and we found that,
+when rowed by two women, and steered by a third, they surpassed our
+boats in speed.</p>
+
+<p>The females, unlike those of the Indian tribes, had much handsomer
+features than the men; and one young woman of the party would have been
+deemed pretty even in Europe. Our presents seemed to render them
+perfectly happy, and they danced with such ecstasy in their slender
+boats as to incur, more than once, great hazard of being overset. A
+bundle of strings of beads being thrown into an oomiak, it was caught by
+an old woman, who hugged the treasure to her breast with the strongest
+expression of rapture, while another elderly dame, who had stretched out
+her arms in vain, became the very picture of despair. On my explaining,
+however that the present was for the whole, an amicable division
+instantly took place; and to show their gratitude, they sang a song to a
+pleasing air, keeping time with their oars. They gave us many pressing
+invitations to pass the night at their tents, in which they were joined
+by the men; and to excite our liberality the mothers drew their children
+out of their wide hoods, where they are accustomed to carry them naked,
+and holding them up begged beads for them. Their entreaties were, for a
+time, successful; but being desirous of getting clear of our visitors
+before breakfast-time, we at length told them that our stock was
+exhausted, and they took leave.</p>
+
+<p>These Esquimaux were as inquisitive as the others we had seen respecting
+our names, and were very desirous of teaching us the true pronunciation
+of theirs. They informed us that they had seen Indians, and had heard of
+white people, but had never seen any before. My giving a little deer's
+meat to one of them in exchange for fish, led to an inquiry as to how we
+killed the animal. On which Ooligbuck showed them his gun, and obtaining
+permission, fired it off after cautioning them not to be alarmed. The
+report astonished them much, and an echo from some neighbouring pieces
+of ice made them think that the ball had struck the shore, then upwards
+of a mile distant. The women had left us previously; several of the men
+departed the instant they heard the report; and the rest, in a short
+time, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_191" id="Page_191">[Pg 191]</a></span>followed their example. They applied to the gun the same
+name they give to their harpoons for killing whales.</p>
+
+<p>We learned from these people that the shore we were now coasting was
+part of the main land, and that some land to the northward, which
+appeared soon after we had passed their tents, consisted of two islands;
+between which and the main shore, there was a passage leading to the
+open sea. On landing to cook breakfast and obtain a meridian observation
+for latitude, we observed the interior of the country to be similar to
+that seen from Nicholson's Island. The soil was in some spots sandy,
+but, generally, it consisted of a tenacious clay which cracks in the
+sun. The air was perfumed by numerous tufts of a beautiful phlox, and of
+a still handsomer and very fragrant cruciform flower, of a genus
+hitherto undescribed.</p>
+
+<p>On re-embarking we pulled about eight miles farther betwixt the islands
+and the main, and found a narrow opening to the sea nearly barred up.
+The bottom was so soft and muddy that the poles sunk deep into it, and
+we could not carry the cargo ashore to lighten the boats. We succeeded,
+however, in getting through, after much labour, and the moment we
+crossed the bar, the water was greenish, and perfectly salt. The cape
+forming the eastern point of this entrance lies in latitude 70&deg; 36'
+N., longitude 127&deg; 35' W. and proved to be the most northerly part
+of the main shore which we saw during the voyage. It is a few miles
+farther north than Return Reef of Captain Franklin, and is most
+probably, with the exception of the land near Icy Cape, since discovered
+by Captain Beechey, in the Blossom, the most northern point of the
+American Continent. It was called Cape Bathurst, in honour of the Right
+Honourable the Earl of Bathurst, and the islands lying off it were named
+after George Baillie, Esq., of the Colonial Office. I could not account
+in any other way for the comparative freshness of the sheet of water we
+had left, than by supposing that a sand-bank extended from Cape
+Dalhousie to Baillie's Islands, impeding the communication with the sea,
+and this notion was supported by a line of heavy ice which was seen both
+from Cape Bathurst and Cape Dalhousie, in the direction of the supposed
+bar, and apparently aground.</p>
+
+<p>Taking for granted that the accounts we received from the natives were
+(as our own observations led us to believe) correct, Esquimaux Lake is a
+very extensive and curious piece of water. The Indians say that it
+reaches to within four days' march of Fort Good Hope; and the Esquimaux
+informed us that it extends from Point Encounter to Cape Bathurst, thus
+ascribing to it an extent from north to south of more than one <span class='pagenum'><a
+name="Page_192" id="Page_192">[Pg 192]</a></span>hundred and forty miles, and from
+east to west of one hundred and fifty. It is reported to be full of
+islands, to be every where brackish; and, besides its communication with
+the eastern branch of the Mackenzie, to receive two other large rivers.
+If a conjecture may be hazarded about the original formation of a lake
+which we had so few opportunities of examining, it seems probable that
+the alluvial matters brought down by the Mackenzie, and other rivers,
+have gradually formed a barrier of islands and shoals, which, by
+preventing the free access of the tide, enables the fresh water to
+maintain the predominance behind it. The action of the waves of the sea
+has a tendency to increase the height of the barrier, while the currents
+of the rivers and ebb-tide preserve the depth of the lake. A great
+formation of wood-coal will, I doubt not, be ultimately formed by the
+immense quantities of drift-timber annually deposited on the borders of
+Esquimaux Lake.</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p> <div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_8_8" id="Footnote_8_8"></a><a href="#FNanchor_8_8"><span class="label">[8]</span></a>The ridge-poles were omitted in the section by mistake.</p></div> </div>
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" /> <p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_193" id="Page_193">[Pg 193]</a></span></p> <h4>CONTINUATION OF THE PROCEEDINGS OF THE EASTERN DETACHMENT.</h4>
+
+<h2>CHAPTER III.</h2>
+
+<p><small>Double Cape Bathurst&mdash;Whales&mdash;Bituminous-shale Cliffs on
+Fire&mdash;Enter Franklin Bay&mdash;Heavy Gale&mdash;Peninsula of Cape
+Parry&mdash;Perforated Rock&mdash;Detention at Cape Lyon by
+Wind&mdash;Force of an Esquimaux Arrow&mdash;Meet with heavy
+Ice&mdash;Pass Union and Dolphin Straits&mdash;Double Cape Krusenstern,
+and enter George the Fourth's Coronation Gulph&mdash;Reach the
+Coppermine River&mdash;Remarks&mdash;Meteorological Table.</small></p>
+
+
+
+<p>As soon as we entered the clear green water off Cape Bathurst, we
+perceived a strong flood tide setting against us, and saw several white
+whales, and some black ones of a large size, but of a species unknown to
+Ooligbuck.<a name="FNanchor_9_9" id="FNanchor_9_9"></a><a href="#Footnote_9_9" class="fnanchor">[9]</a> The natives term them <i>aggeew&oelig;rk</i>, which is the name
+given, by the Esquimaux of Hudson's Bay, to the black whales that
+frequent the Welcome. Many large masses of ice were floating about, but
+they were no impediment to the boats. The beach, from the time we left
+Esquimaux Lake, was bold, there being two or three fathoms water close
+to the shore. We hailed this change of circumstances with pleasure, for
+the shoals and islands skirting Esquimaux Lake had embarrassed us much,
+and the brackishness of the water, combined with the trending of the
+coast <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_194" id="Page_194">[Pg 194]</a></span>to the northward, and even westward, had excited in our
+minds an apprehension, that we might possibly be obliged to make a great
+circuit in search of a passage, out of that extraordinary piece of
+water, and that the opening, when found, might lie so far to the
+northward as to be obstructed by an icy sea. Fortunately our fears were
+groundless; and, to increase our joy, the coast-line from Cape Bathurst
+appeared to run in a straight direction for Coppermine River. There were
+many winter-houses built by the Esquimaux on Cape Bathurst. The cliffs
+facing the sea were still frozen, but the water trickling down their
+sides showed that they were thawing rapidly. We encamped on the beach in
+latitude 70&deg; 32&frac12;' N., longitude 127&deg; 21' W., having
+sailed that day thirty-seven miles. A plentiful supply of very fine
+sorrel (<i>oxyria reniformis</i>) being obtained from the banks, proved an
+agreeable addition to our supper.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenotel">Wednesday, 19th.</span>Embarking at four o'clock in the morning of the 19th, we
+rowed along the coast close to the beach, in from two to three fathoms
+water. We landed at noon to observe the latitude; and at four <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> a
+thunder-storm coming on, induced us to encamp for the night. The day's
+voyage was thirty-two miles, and our encampment was situated in latitude
+70&deg; 11' N., longitude 126&deg; 15' W., on a point which was named
+after Dr. Fitton, the distinguished President of the Geological Society.
+No land was visible to seaward, nor were any fields of ice or large
+floes seen, but we passed many smaller pieces and some masses, that,
+having stranded on the beach, were dissolving with great rapidity. A
+regular tide of six hours affecting the rate of our progress, an
+allowance was made for it in the reckoning.</p>
+
+<p>The coast consists of precipitous banks, similar in structure to the
+bituminous-shale cliffs at Whitby, in Yorkshire. They gradually increase
+in altitude from Cape Bathurst, and near our encampment their height
+exceeded two hundred and fifty feet. The shale was in a state of
+ignition in many places, and the hot sulphureous airs from the land were
+strongly contrasted with cold sea-breezes with which, in the morning,
+they alternated. The combustion had proceeded to a considerable extent
+on the point where we landed at noon. Much alum had formed, and the
+baked clays of yellow, brown, white, and red colours, caused the place
+to resemble a brick-field or a pottery. This point, which was named
+after Dr. Traill, of Liverpool, lies in latitude 70&deg; 19' N. The
+interior of the country, as seen from the top of the cliffs, appeared to
+be nearly level, and to abound in small lakes. The soil was clayey,
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_195" id="Page_195">[Pg 195]</a></span>and from the recent thaw wet and soft. Tufts of the beautiful
+phlox, before mentioned, were scattered over these, otherwise unsightly
+wastes; and, notwithstanding the scanty vegetation, rein-deer were
+numerous. Some of the young ones, to whom man was doubtless a novel
+object, came trotting up to gratify their curiosity, and were suffered
+to depart unmolested. The sea here abounds in mollusc&aelig;, and many
+black whales were seen; also king-ducks, eiders, snow-birds, hawks, and
+a large moth.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenote">Thursday, 20th.</span>We embarked at half-past two on the morning of the 20th,
+and ran alongshore for two hours with a strong and favourable breeze,
+when shoals lying off the mouth of a pretty large river, led us six or
+seven miles from the coast. The breeze, which was off the land,
+freshened considerably, and raised a short breaking sea, through which
+we attempted to pull towards the shore, but the boats shipped much
+water, and made little head-way. We, therefore, set the sails again,
+and, fortunately fetched under a headland, and effected a landing. The
+whole of the pemmican in the Union, and some of that in the Dolphin, was
+wet on this occasion. In the morning we had passed two Esquimaux tents,
+pitched on the beach, but the inmates seeming to be asleep, we did not
+disturb them, being unwilling to lose the fair wind by any delay.</p>
+
+<p>Soon after landing the weather became very foggy, and the wind increased
+to a heavy gale. The cliffs at our encampment consisted of slate-clay,
+and bituminous alum-slate, and were six hundred feet high. The river,
+whose mouth we passed, ran close behind them, having a course parallel
+to the coast for some miles before it makes its way to the sea. It was
+named Wilmot Horton River, in honour of the Under Secretary of State for
+the Colonial Department. Its breadth is about three hundred yards, and
+it seems, from the quantity of drift-timber that was piled on the shoals
+at its mouth, to flow through a wooded country. The length of this day's
+voyage was twenty-four miles, and the position of our encampment was in
+latitude 69&deg; 50' N., longitude 125&deg; 55' W. At high-water, which
+took place at a quarter past four in the afternoon, the small slip of
+beach on which we had encamped was almost covered, and we had to pile
+the baggage on the shelving cliff. A very showy species of gromwell grew
+near our encampment, in company with the common sea-gromwell,
+(<i>lithospermum maritimum</i>.)</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenote">Friday, 21st.</span>On the 21st strong winds and foggy weather, with a
+considerable surf on the beach, detained us until after eight o'clock
+in the morning, when many large <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_196" id="Page_196">[Pg 196]</a></span>masses of ice coming in, took
+the ground near the shore, and smoothed the water sufficiently to enable
+us to embark. The fog was dense to seaward and over the land, but the
+height of the cliffs left a space of about a mile from the beach, over
+which it was carried by the violence of the wind.</p>
+
+<p>About two miles from our late encampment, the bituminous shale was again
+noticed to be on fire, giving out much smoke; and as we advanced, the
+cliffs became less precipitous, appearing as if they had fallen down
+from the consumption of the combustible strata. They gradually
+terminated in a green and sloping bank, whose summit, about two miles
+from the sea, rose to the height of about six hundred feet. For the
+information of the general reader, I may mention that the shale takes
+fire in consequence of its containing a considerable quantity of sulphur
+in a state of such minute division, that it very readily attracts oxygen
+from the atmosphere, and inflames. The combustion is rendered more
+lively by the presence of bitumen; and the sulphuric acid, which is one
+of its products, unites with the alumina of the shale to form, with the
+addition of a small quantity of potass, the triple salt, well known by
+the name of alum. The moistening of the strata by the sea-spray
+accelerates the process. In some alum-works, where nature has not been
+so favourable as in the cliffs of Cape Bathurst, a deficiency of the
+bituminous matter requisite to keep up the proper intensity of
+combustion, is supplied by brush-wood, which is strewed in alternate
+layers with shale that has been previously much divided by long exposure
+to the weather, and the whole is then moistened with salt-water. A
+further account of these cliffs is given in page xl. of the Appendix.</p>
+
+<p>In the forenoon we passed the mouths of two small rivers, which were
+designated after Sir Henry Jardine, Bart., King's Remembrancer in the
+Court of Exchequer for Scotland; and Dr. Burnett, Commissioner of the
+Victualling Board. A meridian observation was obtained in latitude
+69&deg; 38' N.</p>
+
+<p>In the afternoon the wind blowing more on the shore, caused a tumbling
+sea. We sailed amongst much stranded ice, and, following the line of
+coast, were gradually led into a deep bay, whose east side, having a
+northerly direction, was formed by low land, and so much broken by
+numerous and extensive inlets, as to look more like a collection of
+islands than a part of the main land. We were now, reckoning by degrees
+of longitude, fully half way from Point Separation to the Coppermine
+River, and the coast from Cape Bathurst had been so exactly in the
+proper direction, as to excite high hopes of a short and prosperous
+voyage: it was, therefore, no pleasant <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_197" id="Page_197">[Pg 197]</a></span>sight to us to behold
+land running out at right angles to our course, and we were willing to
+believe that a passage existed betwixt it and the main. This opinion was
+supported by the direction of the high land, which had hitherto skirted
+the shore, continuing to be south-easterly, until lost to the sight at
+the distance of fifteen or twenty miles. We, therefore, endeavoured to
+find a passage, but the first opening that we came to, led into a
+circular basin of water, apparently land-locked, and about five miles in
+diameter. We halted at its entrance to cook our supper, and, during our
+stay, perceiving that the ebb-tide set out of it, we determined on
+searching for a passage elsewhere. This inlet is six fathoms deep at its
+entrance, and would prove an excellent harbour for a ship, only for the
+sand-banks, which skirt this part of the coast, and which render the
+passage into it too intricate for vessels having a greater draught of
+water than our boats. It was named Langton Harbour, after the agent for
+the Hudson's Bay Company at Liverpool.</p>
+
+<p>Leaving this harbour, and steering to the northward, we passed several
+inlets, into which the flood-tide set with a strong current. We could
+not see land towards their bottoms, but their mouths were shoal, and we
+felt convinced that there was no passage through them, because the
+flood-tide entered them from the westward. <span class="sidenote">Saturday, 22nd.</span>We therefore,
+proceeded on our voyage without wasting time in examining them; and at
+two o'clock, on the morning of the 22nd, having come fifty-four miles,
+we encamped on a beach composed of small fragments of limestone, and
+strewed with sea-weed. This beach, which received the name of Point
+Stivens, separates an extensive sheet of salt-water from the sea, and is
+similar in character to the Chesil Beach, that connects the Isle of
+Portland to the shore. It varies in breadth from one hundred yards to a
+quarter of a mile, is several miles long, has a northern direction, and
+seems to have been formed by the sweep of the tide round the bay,
+meeting the ebb from the basins that intersects the peninsular
+promontory with which it is connected. There are several narrow breaches
+in it through which the tide flows. Anxious to discover the termination
+of this promontory which was leading us so much out of the direct course
+to the Coppermine, I went to the summit of a rising ground, about five
+miles distant, but the view was closed by some small hills, two or three
+miles off. The soil was clayey, and vegetation scanty.</p>
+
+<p>In taking wood to make a fire, from a large pile of drift-timber which
+had been collected by the Esquimaux, the nest of a snow-bird, containing
+four young, was discovered. The <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_198" id="Page_198">[Pg 198]</a></span>parent bird was at first scared
+away, but affection for its offspring at length gave it courage to
+approach them with food; and as it was not molested it soon became quite
+fearless, and fed them with the larv&aelig; of insects, whilst the party
+were seated at breakfast close by the nest.</p>
+
+<p>At nine o'clock, <span class="smcap">a.m.</span>, we embarked again, and running before a
+favourable breeze, came to a point consisting of cliffs of limestone,
+twenty feet high, with a small island of the same kind of rock at its
+extremity. Many large boulders of greenstone were seen here. After
+ascertaining the latitude by meridian observation to be 69&deg; 42' N.,
+we continued our voyage along a bold shore, consisting of precipices of
+limestone, forty or fifty feet high, with three or four fathoms of water
+at the base. In the evening, having reached a projection which appeared
+to be the western pitch of the cape, we encamped in a bay near a
+remarkable perforated rock, having come twenty-six miles since leaving
+Point Stivens. In the course of the day's voyage we had to make our way
+through some pretty extensive streams of ice, composed of pieces which
+rose eight or ten feet above the water; and we saw a considerable
+quantity of what is termed sailing ice to seaward, being such as a ship
+could make her way through. I had now the gratification of naming the
+extensive bay we had been coasting for three days, after my friend and
+commanding officer; and to the several inlets on its eastern side I
+assigned the names of Wright, Cracroft, and Sellwood, in honour of his
+near relatives. A group of islands to the northward was named Booth
+Islands on the same account.</p>
+
+<p>In bestowing the name of Franklin on this remarkable bay, I paid an
+appropriate compliment to the officer, under whose orders and by whose
+arrangements the delineation of all that is known of the northern coast
+of the American Continent has been effected; with the exception of the
+parts in the vicinity of Icy Cape discovered by Captain Beechey. It
+would not be proper, nor is it my intention, to descant on the
+professional merits of my superior officer; but after having served
+under Captain Franklin for nearly seven years, in two successive voyages
+of discovery, I trust I may be allowed to say, that however high his
+brother officers may rate his courage and talents, either in the
+ordinary line of his professional duty, or in the field of discovery,
+the hold he acquires upon the affections of those under his command, by
+a continued series of the most conciliating attentions to their
+feelings, and an uniform and unremitting regard to their best interests,
+is not less conspicuous. I feel that the sentiments of my friends and
+companions, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_199" id="Page_199">[Pg 199]</a></span>Captain Back and Lieutenant Kendall, are in unison
+with my own, when I affirm, that gratitude and attachment to our late
+commanding officer will animate our breasts to the latest period of our
+lives. After this feeble but sincere tribute of respect and regard, in
+which I hope I have not overstepped the proper bounds of a narrative, I
+hasten to resume the details of the voyage.</p>
+
+<p>The country in the neighbourhood of the encampment consisted entirely of
+limestone, mostly of the variety named dolomite, and, as is usual where
+that stone prevails, it was extremely barren. The cliffs and points of
+land present many caverns and perforated rocks, which have very strong
+resemblances to the windows and crypts of Gothic buildings. The common
+kittiwake breeds in great numbers on the rocky ledges in this quarter,
+and their young were already fledged. The temperature during the day was
+nearly stationary at 46&deg;, the wind south. The evening being very
+fine, the pemmican was taken out of the bags, which were scraped and
+dried; and our loss of provision, by the wetting it sustained in the
+gale of the 20th, proved to be less than we had expected.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenote">Sunday, 23rd.</span>Embarking at four o'clock, <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> of the 23d, we sailed with
+a favourable breeze for nine miles, betwixt Booth Islands and a shore
+presenting alternately projecting rocky shoals and narrow inlets. We
+then landed, and ascended a hill, about seven hundred feet high, to
+ascertain the direction of the coast, and had the satisfaction of
+finding that we had now reached the northern extremity of this
+remarkable promontory. It was named Cape Parry after the distinguished
+navigator whose skill and perseverance have created an era in the
+progress of northern discovery, and a letter addressed to him,
+containing information of our proceedings and of Captain Franklin's as
+far as was known to us, was deposited under a pile of stones which we
+erected on the summit of the hill. From this elevated situation, land
+was faintly seen bearing S.E. by S., about forty miles distant; and from
+thence round to Booth Islands there appeared an open sea, merely studded
+with a few streams of sailing ice, but no islands were seen in that
+direction. There are many well sheltered coves in the vicinity of Cape
+Parry and amongst Booth Islands, but the bottom is rocky, and numerous
+reefs render the navigation unsafe for a ship. The eastern side of Cape
+Parry exhibits a succession of limestone cliffs, similar to those which
+form its western shores; and as we continued our voyage, we passed many
+excavations ornamented by graceful slender pillars, and exhibiting so
+perfect a similarity to the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_200" id="Page_200">[Pg 200]</a></span>pure Gothic arch, that had Nature
+made many such displays in the Old world, there would be but one
+opinion as to the origin of that style of architecture. A small island,
+on which we landed to cook breakfast, was named after the late Daniel
+Moore, Esq., of Lincoln's Inn. It was composed of a cellular limestone,
+containing many crystals of quartz. The whole party went in pursuit of a
+polar hare which was seen here, but, although it had no other shelter
+than the rocks, it contrived to escape from us all.</p>
+
+<p>In the evening we encamped on an island, which was named by Mr. Kendall
+after the Reverend Dr. Burrow of Epping. It is situated in latitude
+69&deg; 49' N., longitude 123&deg; 33' W. The length of the day's voyage
+was thirty-one miles. Fine weather, and a temperature of 52&deg;,
+entailed upon us a visit from the musquitoes. The sea water here is of a
+light blue colour and clear, the bottom being distinctly visible in five
+fathoms. Pieces of ice still adhered to the cliffs.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenotel">Monday, 24th.</span>We were detained in the morning of the 24th by a thick fog,
+which cleared up about eight o'clock; but the moon being then in
+distance, we remained until noon, that Mr. Kendall might take
+observations for lunars and latitude. These necessary operations being
+completed, a short voyage of nine miles brought us to an island on which
+we encamped, and which obtained from us the name of Clapperton, in
+honour of the undaunted explorer of central Africa. In our way we passed
+through several streams of ice, composed of pieces of considerable size,
+but all evidently in a state of rapid dissolution, under a bright sun;
+the water flowing from their surfaces in rivulets. Many black whales,
+and various kinds of seals, were seen this day. We saw no black whales
+farther to the eastward.</p>
+
+<p>From Clapperton Island we had a view of a ridge of hills, which, from
+their direction, appeared to be a continuation of those on the west side
+on Franklin Bay. The island itself, like the neighbouring coast, is
+composed of limestone, and many detached rocks skirt it, rising from
+water that is beautifully clear. When we landed there was a strong
+current setting to the eastward, round the end of the island, but it
+ceased at four <span class="smcap">p.m.</span>, the time of low water, and was probably produced by
+the ebb setting out of some of the inlets of Cape Parry. In the evening
+the ice made a noise so like the regular firing of half-minute guns, as
+to excite, at first, an idea that we heard the guns of a ship. The
+temperature at six o'clock in the evening was as high as 74&deg; in the
+shade.</p>
+
+<p>Clapperton Island lies in latitude 69&deg; 41&frac12;' N., and nearly in
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_201" id="Page_201">[Pg 201]</a></span>the longitude of Fort Franklin, from which it is distant three
+hundred and thirteen miles in a straight line; but the distance between
+the nearer part of the Great Bear Lake and the Arctic Sea here, does not
+much exceed one hundred and ninety miles.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenote">Tuesday, 25th.</span>Taking advantage of a light breeze and very fine weather,
+we embarked at midnight, and crossed over to the east side of the bay,
+passing through some heavy streams of ice by rather intricate channels.
+At half past five in the morning of the 25th, we landed on a point of
+the main shore, and Mr. Kendall took observations for three sets of
+lunars. On re-embarking we proceeded a few miles further, when a heavy
+gale of wind suddenly springing up, we ran for shelter into a small
+creek at the extremity of a cape, which I named after the distinguished
+traveller Captain G.F. Lyon, R.N. The bay which lies betwixt it and Cape
+Parry, was called Darnley, in honour of the Earl of Darnley. The
+distance from Clapperton Island to Cape Lyon is fourteen miles.</p>
+
+<p>The country in the neighbourhood of Cape Lyon presents a surface varied
+by gently swelling eminences, covered with a grassy sward, and
+intersected by several narrow ridges of naked trap rocks, rising about
+one hundred and fifty feet above the general level. The trap ridges,
+when they reach the coast, form high cliffs, and the clay-slate and
+limestone lie in nearly horizontal strata beneath them. The view inland
+was terminated by the range of hills which we had seen at the bottom of
+Darnley Bay, to which the name of Melville Range was now given, in
+honour of the Right Honourable the Lord Viscount Melville.</p>
+
+<p>From the top of the highest trap-hill, near the extremity of the cape,
+we saw some heavy ice to seaward, but with enough of open water for the
+passage of a ship; and, occasionally, during our stay, there was an
+appearance of land to the north-westward, occupying two points of the
+compass; but we were uncertain whether it might not be a fog-bank
+hanging over a field of ice. If it was land, it could not be less than
+twenty-five or thirty miles distant, and must, from the portion of the
+horizon it occupied, be a large island. Upon the summit of the hill we
+erected a pile of stones, and deposited another letter for Captain
+Parry, containing a short account of our proceedings.</p>
+
+<p>A gale of wind detained us two days at Cape Lyon, during which Ooligbuck
+supplied us with rein-deer meat, and Mr. Kendall obtained several sets
+of lunars. The latitude of our encampment, by the mean of three
+meridian observations, was 69&deg; 46&frac12;' N.; and the longitude, by
+lunar distances, 122&deg; 51' W. <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_202" id="Page_202">[Pg 202]</a></span>The temperature of the air,
+during the gale, was about 45&deg;, that of the water 35&deg;. During
+our stay at Cape Lyon the tides were regular, but the rise and fall were
+short of twenty inches. At midnight on the 26th of July, the sun's lower
+limb was observed to touch the horizon for the first time since our
+arrival on the coast. Some old winter houses were seen in our walks, but
+we perceived no indications of the Esquimaux having recently visited
+this quarter.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenotel">Thursday, 27th.</span>The gale moderated on the 27th, and at eight in the
+evening it was sufficiently abated to permit us to proceed on our
+voyage. After rowing about two miles, the horns of a deer were seen over
+a rock at the summit of a cliff, on which M'Leay, the coxswain of the
+Union, landed and killed it. This poor animal had been previously
+wounded by an Esquimaux arrow, which had broken its shoulder bone. The
+jagged bone-head of the arrow was buried in the flesh, and its copper
+point bent up where it had struck the bone. The wound was open, and
+seemed to have been inflicted at least a fortnight before, but the
+animal was still fat. The extremity of Cape Lyon lies about three miles
+north-east of the encampment we had left, and in its neighbourhood the
+cliffs form bold headlands and several small rocky islands. Soon after
+rounding it we came to a projecting point, consisting of cliffs of
+limestone, in which there was a remarkable cave, opening to the sea by
+an archway, fifty feet high and twenty wide. The walls of the cavern
+were two hundred feet high, and a large circular aperture in the roof
+gave free admission to the daylight. Mr. Kendall named this point after
+Mr. Pearce, a particular friend of his.</p>
+
+<p>The night was fine but cold, the temperature having fallen to 35&deg;
+soon after we started, and at midnight the sun sunk for nearly half an
+hour beneath the horizon. We passed much heavy stream-ice, and towards
+the morning a quantity of new, or, as the seamen term it, "bay ice,"
+having formed on the surface on the sea, the boats were so much retarded
+that we <span class="sidenotel">Friday, 28th.</span>put ashore at four o'clock of the 28th, to wait
+until the increasing heat of the day dissolved it. The point on which we
+landed was named after Admiral Sir Richard Godwin Keats, G.C.B.,
+Governor of Greenwich Hospital, and lies in latitude 69&deg; 49' N. and
+longitude 122&deg; W., being about eighteen miles distant from our
+encampment on Cape Lyon. The rocks at Point Keats consist of
+flesh-coloured sandstone. The Melville range of hills approaches there
+within eight or ten miles of the sea, and the intervening country is
+traversed by ridges of greenstone. On the coast from Cape <span class='pagenum'><a
+name="Page_203" id="Page_203">[Pg 203]</a></span>Lyon to Point Keats there is a
+line of large drift timber, evidently thrown up by the waves, about
+twelve feet perpendicular height, above the ordinary spring tides: a
+sufficient proof of the sea being nearly clear of ice at the time it was
+thrown up; for the presence of any considerable quantity, even of
+stream-ice, prevents the waves from rising high. After two hours halt,
+the bay-ice having dissolved we re-embarked.</p>
+
+<p>From Cape Lyon to Point Keats the coast runs nearly east; after quitting
+the latter we found it trending a little to the southward, and from a
+point, which was named in honour of John Deas Thompson, Esq.,
+Commissioner of His Majesty's Navy, it has nearly a south-east
+direction. We landed a little to the eastward of Point Deas Thompson, to
+take a meridian observation for latitude, in a small bay, bounded by
+cliffs of limestone, one hundred and forty feet high, in which the waves
+had sculptured some beautiful Gothic arches. From the summit of the
+cliffs we saw a dark appearance in the eastern horizon, but it was too
+indistinct to permit us to decide whether it was land or merely a
+fog-bank. To the eastward of these cliffs the coast decreased in height,
+and, at the distance of five miles, we passed a small river, which was
+named after Francis Palgrave, Esq. Near this river, on the summit of a
+cliff, which was twenty-five feet high, we noticed several large logs of
+drift timber, with some hummocks of gravel, that appeared to have been
+thrown up by the waves. A portion of the Melville Range lies within
+three miles of the shore there; and one of its most remarkable hills was
+named after my esteemed friend, William Jackson Hooker, LL.D., Regius
+Professor of Botany in the University of Glasgow; and another after
+Colonel Colby, of the Royal Engineers, one of the Members of the Board
+of Longitude. About four o'clock in the afternoon we came to a stream
+flowing from a lake, and as it was an excellent boat harbour, we entered
+it and encamped. It was named Roscoe, after the eloquent historian of
+the Medici; and a conical hill of the Melville Range, visible from its
+mouth, received the name of the venerable geographer Major Rennel.</p>
+
+<p>We passed this day through heavier and more crowded streams of ice than
+any we had previously seen on the voyage. The navigation amongst it was
+tedious and difficult, and just before we put ashore much motion was
+imparted to it by a fresh south-west wind. The temperature during the
+day varied from 35&deg; to 50&deg;. The mouth of Roscoe River lies in
+latitude 69&deg; 41' N., longitude 121&deg; 2' W., and is forty-eight
+miles distant from Cape Lyon.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_204" id="Page_204">[Pg 204]</a></span><span class="sidenotel">Saturday, 29th.</span>We embarked on the 29th, with a fair wind; but
+the ice lay so close, that we could not venture to set more than a
+reefed foresail, and were ultimately obliged to lower the sail entirely,
+and to find a passage through ice with oars and poles. The pieces of ice
+were of sufficient magnitude to deserve the name of floes, and were
+sometimes several fathoms thick. They were all moving before the breeze,
+which caused them to arrange themselves in the form of streams parallel
+to the coast, and, consequently, left lanes of open water in the
+direction of our course. These lanes, however, were continually changing
+their form; and, on several occasions, when we had been tempted by the
+favourable appearance of a piece of open water to venture from the
+coast, we had great difficulty in extricating ourselves from the ice
+which closed around us. The thickness of the ice led me to conclude that
+the sea had not been long open in this quarter; and I observed that the
+vegetation was later on this part of the coast than on the western side
+of Cape Parry.</p>
+
+<p>For the first twelve miles after leaving our encampment, the coast was
+low and sandy; the Melville Range still forming the back-ground, at the
+distance of four or five miles from the sea. The low beaches were
+terminated by a rocky headland, which obtained from us the name of De
+Witt Clinton, as a testimony of our sense of the urbanity and love of
+science which had prompted his Excellency the Governor of the state of
+New York<a name="FNanchor_10_10" id="FNanchor_10_10"></a><a href="#Footnote_10_10" class="fnanchor">[10]</a> to show so much attention to the members of the Expedition,
+in their passage through his government. Some miles beyond Point De Witt
+Clinton we came to a steep cliff, where the ice was so closely packed
+that we could not force a passage. The cargoes were, therefore, carried
+along the foot of the cliff, and the boats launched for a few yards over
+a piece of ice. In this operation, the shelving base of an iceberg,
+which had formed under the cliff, and still adhered to it, but which was
+undermined by the waves, gave way whilst several of the men were
+standing upon it; but, fortunately, it did not overset, and they
+received no injury, as it was large enough to support them in the water.
+At nine o'clock, <span class="smcap">a.m.</span>, we were stopped by the closeness of the ice, and
+put ashore until the tide or wind should produce some change.</p>
+
+<p>The tides, since leaving the Mackenzie, had never been observed to have
+a greater rise than eighteen inches: but in the neighbourhood of our
+encampment, the sea-wrack and lines <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_205" id="Page_205">[Pg 205]</a></span>of drift timber indicated a
+washing of the sea to the perpendicular height of twenty feet. The
+country in this vicinity consists of a bluish limestone, interstratified
+with slate-clay: and naked and rugged ridges of trap rocks rise in
+various places above the general level. The soil is composed of clay and
+limestone gravel. The latitude of our encampment was ascertained, by
+meridian observation, to be 69&deg; 29' N.; its longitude was 120&deg;
+20' W.; and its distance from Roscoe River was twenty-five miles.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenote">Sunday, 30th.</span>A breeze of wind from the land having opened a passage two
+miles wide, we embarked at two o'clock in the morning of the 30th, and
+ran seven miles under sail; when, having overtaken the ice which had
+passed in the night, we found it too closely packed to allow us to
+proceed. In making for the beach, the Union narrowly escaped being
+crushed by two large floes of ice, which came together with violence
+just as she was about to run betwixt them. The Dolphin had sailed
+through the same passage not two minutes before. From an eminence near
+our encampment, we had the unpleasant view of a sea covered, as far as
+the eye could reach, with ice, excepting a few lanes of open water far
+to seaward. The tide fell here seven inches in the morning, and eleven
+in the evening, although the north-west wind increased in the afternoon
+to a pretty strong gale. The greater fall of the water with that wind,
+showing that it found an exit to the eastward, relieved us from an
+apprehension, which we had begun to entertain, that we were entering a
+deep bay, which might be encumbered by the drift-ice for many days. Much
+ice drove past us in the course of the day, before a west-north-west
+wind, its progress being only slightly checked for a time by the flood
+tide. Recent footsteps of a small party of Esquimaux were seen on the
+beach. Our encampment was situated in latitude 69&deg; 24' N., and
+longitude 120&deg; 03' W.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenote">Monday, 31st.</span>Embarking on the 31st, at two o'clock in the morning, we
+succeeded in getting about six miles through the ice: when we were again
+obliged to put ashore at the mouth of a small river, which was named
+after James Buchanan, Esq., his Majesty's Consul at New York, whose
+friendly attention to the officers of the Expedition well entitled him
+to their gratitude. After waiting for a while the tide loosened the ice
+a little, and we made some progress by debarking upon the floes, and
+pushing them apart with poles, until a sufficient opening was made. This
+operation was tedious, and not devoid of hazard to the boats, arising
+from the rotatory motion frequently given to the floes, by the pressure
+of the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_206" id="Page_206">[Pg 206]</a></span>body of the ice. At noon, an observation for latitude was
+obtained on a projecting point, which was named after William Tinney,
+Esq., of Lincoln's Inn. At three in the afternoon, our progress being
+again arrested by the compactness of the ice, we hauled the boats upon
+the beach, and M'Leay having killed a fat buck rein-deer, the party had
+an excellent supper after the fatigues of the day. The length of the
+day's voyage was twenty-two miles; the latitude of our encampment,
+69&deg; 17&frac12;' N., and its longitude 119&deg; 27' W. The coast line
+in this quarter is lower, few of the cliffs exceeding forty feet in
+height, and there is a greater proportion of flat beach than occurs
+nearer Cape Lyon. The ground is strewed with gravel, apparently arising
+from a limestone conglomerate which exists there in considerable
+quantity. The Melville Range is within four or five miles of the shore
+at this place, and does not rise more than five hundred feet above the
+sea. Many small rivulets flow from the rising grounds into the sea,
+through wide gravelly beds, indicating that at times they swell into
+large torrents.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenotel">August 1st.</span>A light westerly wind having opened a narrow channel between
+the ice and the shore, we embarked early in the morning of the 1st of
+August, and, three miles from our encampment, came to a river, which
+discharged itself by various shallow mouths, separated by sand banks.
+Its westernmost and easternmost mouths were five miles apart; and the
+latter, which was the largest, was one hundred and fifty yards wide.
+Although the outlet of this river is so much barred up, it discharges a
+considerable volume of water, and probably has its sources in the hills
+which are visible from the northern shores of Great Bear Lake. It was
+named after John Wilson Croker, Esq., Secretary to the Admiralty.
+Further on we had a view of a high island, lying ten or twelve miles
+from the shore, which received the appellation of Sir George Clerk's
+Island. M'Leay, who was now acknowledged to be our best hunter, was sent
+in pursuit of a deer, which we saw from the boats, and being successful,
+we landed to cook our breakfast, after having rowed twenty miles in the
+course of the morning. An observation for latitude was obtained a mile
+further at a point which was named after Waller Clifton, Esq., Secretary
+to the Victualling Board, The coast here makes a turn to the southward,
+and about six miles further on, where it resumes its easterly direction,
+a river about one hundred yards wide flows into the sea, betwixt two
+sand hills. To this river Mr. Kendall gave the name of Inman, out of
+respect to the Reverend and Learned Professor of the Royal Naval College
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_207" id="Page_207">[Pg 207]</a></span>at Portsmouth. A conical hill, about ten miles distant, in a
+south-west direction, was named after the late President of the Royal
+Society, the highly distinguished Sir Humphry Davy, Baronet. This was
+the last part we saw of the Melville Chain. We encamped at half past
+seven in the evening, under a high cliff of limestone, having advanced
+during the day thirty-seven miles. The point on which we encamped,
+received from Mr. Kendall, the name of Wise, after Captain M.F. Wise, of
+the Royal Navy, under whose command he sailed in His Majesty's ship
+Spartan. It is situated in latitude 69&deg; 03&frac12;' N., longitude
+118&deg; W.</p>
+
+<p>The coast from Cape Clifton to Point Wise consists of limestone in
+horizontal layers, forming cliffs, which are separated from each other
+by intervening shelving beaches, and it is skirted to the distance of a
+quarter of a mile by rocky shoals, having sufficient water on them for
+our boats, but not enough to admit the heavy ice. This was the cause of
+our making greater progress than we had been led to expect from the
+appearance of the ice in the morning. The cliffs at Point Wise are two
+hundred feet high, and from their summits, the ice appeared closely
+packed, as far as the eye could reach; no lanes of open water being
+visible. It was, however, composed of pieces, and not a continuous
+field, for we could distinctly perceive that several of the hummocks it
+inclosed were in motion. This was the first time during the voyage that
+we saw ice so closely packed, as to appear impenetrable to a ship when
+impelled by a good breeze, but it is necessary to state that, even from
+a considerable height, we could not tell with certainty the state of the
+ice six miles off; scattered pieces at that distance assuming the
+appearance of a close pack. The weather this day was fine, the
+temperature varying from 43&deg; to 50&deg;.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenote">Wednesday, 2d.</span>Soon after setting out on the 2d, the temperature, which
+had been about 40&deg; throughout the night, fell to 34&deg;, and a fog
+came on. The wind also freshening and putting the ice in motion, the
+boats received some heavy blows; but we continued to advance, though
+slowly, and with much caution. About ten miles from our encampment, we
+passed the mouth of a small river, which was named after Captain
+Hoppner, of the Royal Navy, second in command to Captain Parry, on his
+third voyage of discovery. Towards noon the fog cleared away, and a
+meridian observation was obtained in latitude 68&deg; 56' N. Three miles
+further on we arrived at the mouth of a wide but shallow river, which
+flowed over a rocky bottom, betwixt two sand hills, and joined the sea
+by several mouths, separated by shoals. To this river Mr. Kendall gave
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_208" id="Page_208">[Pg 208]</a></span>the name of his friend, Lieutenant Harding, of the Royal Navy.
+Five miles beyond this river, on the extremity of a rocky cape, the
+Esquimaux had constructed several store-houses, of drift timber, which
+were filled with dried deer-meat and seal-blubber; along with which,
+cooking kettles, and lamps made of potstone, copper-headed spears, and
+various other articles, were carefully laid up. The ashes of the
+recently extinguished fires showed that the natives had quitted this
+place only a few days, and we felt much pleasure in figuring to
+ourselves the surprise and joy with which they would behold, on their
+return, the iron utensils that we deposited in the store-houses for
+their use. The cape received the name of "Young," after the learned
+Secretary to the Board of Longitude.</p>
+
+<p>From Cape Young we had a view of the sea thickly covered with ice, of a
+greater thickness than any we had previously encountered; and we
+perceived that there was a deeply indented bay lying in our route, and
+so filled with ice, that our only method of passing it appeared to be by
+keeping close to the shore, although under the disadvantage of trebling
+the distance. The coast in this quarter is similar to that which we had
+passed on the two or three preceding days, and is formed of high
+limestone cliffs, with intervening shingly beaches; but the country is
+still more barren, the quantity of limestone debris almost excluding any
+soil. Flat limestone rocks, having only a few inches of water upon them,
+skirt the beach, and terminate like a wall in four or five fathoms
+water. The ice was closely packed against these rocks, and for five
+miles after passing Cape Young, we made a way for the boats only by the
+constant use of the hatchet and ice-chisel, and gladly encamped at six
+o'clock in the evening, after a day's voyage of thirty-one miles. A herd
+of twenty rein-deer were grazing on the beach, but our hunters were too
+much fatigued to go in pursuit of them. The encampment was situated in
+latitude 68&deg; 53' N., and longitude 116&deg; 50' W. The temperature
+varied in the course of the day from 34&deg; to 50&deg;. We observed
+that the ice continued to dissolve, but not so rapidly as in the month
+of July, when the sun did not sink below the horizon.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenotel">Thursday, 3rd.</span>We resumed our operations on the morning of the 3d at the
+usual hour, and with great labour made a passage for the boats. At
+eleven o'clock we landed to refresh ourselves on a projecting point at
+the western entrance of a deep bay, having previously passed a river
+which was about one hundred yards wide, but very shallow. After <span class='pagenum'><a
+name="Page_209" id="Page_209">[Pg 209]</a></span>breakfasting, and obtaining a
+meridian observation in latitude 68&deg; 53' N., we pushed off again,
+and for some time made very slow progress. The shores of the bay
+consisted of beds of limestone, which, shelving into the water, were
+covered with masses of ice, forced up by the pressure of the pack
+outside. We were, therefore, compelled to work our way in deeper water,
+and there the boats, which led by turns, were occasionally exposed to
+the hazard of being overset by pieces of buoyant ice, which frequently
+broke off from the bases of the floes. In the language of the whalers,
+the ice is said to <i>calf</i>, when masses are detached in this manner, and
+they are sometimes of sufficient magnitude in the Greenland seas to
+endanger large vessels. The Dolphin was, at one time, nearly crushed to
+pieces by the closing of two floes; but, fortunately, she had reached a
+small recess, just as they came in contact, and they recoiled
+sufficiently to leave a passage for her exit, after she had sustained
+the trifling damage of a few cracks in the upper planks. The rays of the
+sun, and the waves acting on the surface of the floes, had, by thawing
+them irregularly, formed lakes of fresh water of some extent upon their
+surface. When these pieces of water were of sufficient depth, we availed
+ourselves of them to make some progress in our voyage, and in this way
+we frequently sailed over a considerable thickness of ice.</p>
+
+<p>At four o'clock <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> we had advanced five miles, when to our joy we
+found a lane of open water, which permitted us to cross to the other
+side of the bay, where we encamped in latitude 68&deg; 51&frac12;' N.,
+and longitude 116&deg; 03' W., having sailed in the course of the day
+eighteen miles and a half. The bay was named Stapylton in honour of
+Major-General the Honourable G.A.C. Stapylton, Chairman of the
+Victualling Board; and on ascending a rising ground we perceived that it
+communicates with a long, narrow lake. A few miles from the coast the
+land rises from three to five hundred feet above the sea, and presents
+many precipitous limestone cliffs, and chains of small lakes. The
+country is very barren, the only plant we gathered being the yellow
+poppy, (<i>papaver nudicaule</i>.) By our reckoning we were now nearly in the
+longitude of the mouth of the Coppermine River, but about seventy miles
+to the northward of it, we, therefore, entertained an opinion that we
+were coasting a narrow peninsula, and that we should soon have the
+pleasure of perceiving the coast take a southerly direction. It was,
+consequently, with some hopes of beholding the sea on the opposite side
+of the peninsula that I walked seven or eight miles to the eastward in
+the night, but <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_210" id="Page_210">[Pg 210]</a></span>I was disappointed. In my way I had occasion to
+wade through a small lake, when two birds, about the size of the
+<i>northern diver</i>, and apparently of that genus, swam, with bold and
+angry gestures, to within a few yards of me, evidently very impatient of
+any intruder on their domain. Their necks were of a beautiful pale
+yellow colour, their bodies black with white specks. I considered them
+to belong to a species not yet described, and regretted that, having
+left my gun at the tent, it was not in my power to procure one of them
+for a specimen.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenotel">Friday, 4th.</span>Embarking at three <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> on the 4th, we found little
+difficulty in reaching the eastern cape of Stapylton Bay, the wind
+having formed a narrow channel between the ice and the shore in the
+night. The temperature was low, and in the morning some new ice was
+formed which we easily broke. We noticed several eider ducks breaking a
+way through the thin ice for their young ones with their wings, and in
+this operation they made greater progress than we did in the boats.</p>
+
+<p>On reaching the cape<a name="FNanchor_11_11" id="FNanchor_11_11"></a><a href="#Footnote_11_11" class="fnanchor">[11]</a> which was named after Vice-Admiral Sir William
+Johnstone Hope, G.C.B., we descried another point about four or five
+leagues distant, bearing east-north-east, the intervening bay being
+filled with closely packed ice. We were now within twelve miles of Cape
+Young, after a laborious navigation of four times that distance, and the
+prospect of another bay, equally unpromising, was very vexatious; but
+our apprehensions were increased by the view of a continuous line of
+land, extending from north-north-west until it was hid behind the nearer
+cape, which bore east-north-east, for we feared that it might prove to
+be a continuation of the main shore. Our crews, though concerned at the
+delay that so much ice was likely to occasion, set about overcoming the
+obstacle with a hearty good will, and after an intricate and troublesome
+navigation of ten or twelve miles amongst the ice, we found the bottom
+of the bay more open, and were enabled to cross over to the eastern side
+where we encamped. This bay received the name of the eminent astronomer
+James South, Esq.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Kendall having gone to ascertain from the higher ground the trending
+of the coast, returned in about two hours with the cheering intelligence
+that the land to the northward was unconnected with the main shore, and
+that he had seen the latter inclining to the south-east, with a much
+more open sea than we had lately been accustomed to. As soon as sup<span class='pagenum'><a
+name="Page_211" id="Page_211">[Pg 211]</a></span>per was over, I also set out to
+enjoy the gratifying prospect, and from the extremity of the cape on
+which we were encamped, and which was named in honour of the Right
+Honourable Lord Bexley, I beheld the northern land running from
+north-north-west till it was lost in the horizon on a north 73&deg; east
+bearing. It seemed to be pretty high but not mountainous; and although
+broken towards the east, the principal portion of it appeared to be
+continuous. This island, by far the largest one that was seen, either in
+the present voyage or on Captain Franklin's former Expedition, was named
+after that most distinguished philosopher Dr. Hyde Wollaston. The main
+shore had a direction nearly parallel to Wollaston Land, its most
+distant point in sight, which I estimated to be fifteen miles off,
+bearing S. 61&deg; E. On the strait, separating the two shores, I
+bestowed the names of our excellent little boats, the Dolphin and Union.
+It varies in width from twelve to twenty miles, and to the eastward
+seemed to contain merely detached streams of ice, not likely to obstruct
+the progress of a vessel; but to the westward lay the closely packed
+ice, filling South's Bay, and extending to seaward. The ice did not,
+however, entirely close the strait, for I could discern lanes of open
+water towards Wollaston Land. The packed ice which we had seen lining
+the coast between Point Clifton and Cape Bexley, may be perhaps
+considered as an illustration of the remark made by Captain Parry, that
+the western sides of seas and inlets in those latitudes are more
+encumbered with ice than the opposite sides; and it is very probable
+that a ship might have found a passage by keeping along Wollaston Land,
+an opinion which the appearance of the ice as seen from Cape Bexley,
+tended to confirm. The latitude of our encampment was 68&deg; 58' N.,
+and its longitude 115&deg; 47' W.; it was within ten miles of our
+encampment of the preceding night, although we had travelled twenty-five
+miles in the course of the day.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenote">Saturday, 5th.</span>The party embarked on the 5th, at the usual hour in the
+morning, with their spirits pleasantly excited by the intelligence of
+the favourable trending of the coast, communicated by Mr. Kendall, and
+after doubling Cape Bexley, proceeded under sail, before a
+west-north-west wind, with a rapidity to which they had lately been
+unaccustomed. The point of land which Cape Bexley terminates, consists
+entirely of horizontal beds of limestone, and is nowhere more than three
+hundred feet above the sea. On the west side, the water is two or three
+fathoms deep, close to the shore, and the land attains its greatest
+elevation by a steep rise from the beach. On the east side there are
+some precipitous cliffs, but <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_212" id="Page_212">[Pg 212]</a></span>the coast in general is skirted by
+shelving rocks. No soil was seen on the Cape, nor any appearance of
+vegetation, the ground being every where covered, to the depth of a
+foot, by fragments of limestone, which are detached by the frost from
+the solid strata lying beneath. We were much puzzled at first with the
+appearance of several parallel trenches, a foot deep, running for a
+great distance amongst the fragments, but on examination they were
+ascertained to originate in fissures of the subjacent strata. Much
+quartz being intermixed with the limestone of Cape Bexley, the fragments
+which covered the ground had, by the action of the weather, lost most of
+the softer calcareous matter, and were converted into a kind of rasp,
+very annoying to pedestrians, being capable of destroying a pair of
+stout English shoes in a walk of a few hours.</p>
+
+<p>At eleven o'clock we came to a pack of ice abutting against the shore,
+but while we halted to cook breakfast, the wind opened a way for us. In
+the course of the morning we passed many heavy streams of ice, separated
+by lanes of open water, which would have afforded an easy passage for a
+ship. Having obtained a meridian observation for latitude, we
+re-embarked, and pulled for five miles through an open channel, to Point
+Cockburn, on the opposite side of a bay, which appeared to be four or
+five miles deep, and to be quite filled with drift-ice. Many deer were
+seen grazing near this point, but we did not stop to send a hunter in
+pursuit of them. We afterwards crossed several other indentations of the
+coast, skirted by reefs of limestone and low islets, and encamped on
+Chantry Island, lying close to the main shore, in latitude 68&deg; 45'
+N., longitude 114&deg; 23' W., having sailed thirty-nine miles in the
+course of the day. Two islands, lying opposite to our encampment,
+received the appellations of Manners Sutton and Sir Robert Liston's
+Islands. The degree of motion in the ice, which was drifting between
+these islands and the shore, indicated a stronger current of both flood
+and ebb than we had hitherto seen.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenotel">Sunday, 6th.</span>On the 6th, we commenced the day's voyage at three in the
+morning, but were compelled to put ashore soon afterwards by a stream of
+ice barring our way. At six o'clock, however, the flowing tide opened it
+sufficiently to enable us to push the boats along with poles, our
+progress being occasionally facilitated by the rocky reefs, which kept
+the heavier masses from pressing down upon us. Much of the ice lay
+aground, in nine fathoms, but none of it rose more than five or six feet
+above the surface of the water. We estimated the velocity of the flood
+tide, off some of the rocky points, at <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_213" id="Page_213">[Pg 213]</a></span>three miles an hour, and
+at such places we had much trouble in endeavouring to keep the boats
+clear of the drifting ice. The circular motion which the pieces
+occasionally acquired was particularly difficult to guard against, and
+had we not depended on the tongues of ice, which, lying deep under
+water, prevented the upper parts of the floes to which they belonged
+from coming in contact, we should scarcely have ventured amongst them.
+We did not, however, entirely escape, for the Dolphin was caught between
+a floe and a piece that lay aground, and fairly raised out of the water
+by the pressure, which broke one of her timbers and several of her
+planks. We put ashore on a small island to repair the damage, and during
+our stay Mr. Kendall had a meridian observation in latitude 68&deg;
+36&frac12;' N. Another island, lying about two miles from the main land,
+was distinguished by the name of Aylmer Bourke Lambert, Esq.,
+Vice-President of the Linnean Society. The sea water there was
+beautifully clear.</p>
+
+<p>At half-past one, the Dolphin being again rendered sea-worthy, we
+prosecuted our voyage until five <span class="smcap">p.m.</span>, when the flood-tide set with such
+velocity round a rocky point, and brought so much ice with it, that we
+considered it prudent to put ashore. The violent eddies in the currents
+there, and the sudden approach and collision of the large masses of ice,
+reminded us forcibly of the poet's description of Scylla and Charybdis.
+The length of the day's voyage was twenty-one miles, and our encampment
+was situated in latitude 68&deg; 32' N., longitude 113&deg; 53' W. The
+temperature at nine <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> was 60&deg;.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Kendall and I took a walk of some miles along the shore, and were
+happy to observe the coast inclining to the southward, although no doubt
+now existed as to our accomplishing the voyage sufficiently early to
+allow us to cross the barren grounds, to the eastward of Great Bear
+Lake, before the cold weather set in. The flowering season for most of
+the plants on the coast was already past, but our route for the
+remainder of the distance to Bear Lake, inclining much to the southward,
+would naturally have the effect of prolonging to us the duration of the
+summer. A conspicuous hill, discovered in our walk, received the name of
+Mount Barrow, in honour of John Barrow, Esq., Secretary to the
+Admiralty; and two islands in the offing were named after Commanders
+Bayfield and Douglas, of the Royal Navy, to both of whom the officers of
+the Expedition were indebted for much assistance and personal kindness,
+in their progress through Canada. The interior of the country was flat,
+but the limestone formed cliffs on the shore two hundred feet high.
+From the form of the islands, I <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_214" id="Page_214">[Pg 214]</a></span>was led to believe that they
+consisted of trap rocks. Wollaston Land, as seen from this encampment,
+appeared to recede gradually from the main, and it sunk under the
+horizon, on a north-east bearing. By estimation, the most easterly part
+of it which we saw, is in latitude 68&deg; 45' N., and longitude
+113&deg; 53' W. The navigation of the Dolphin and Union Straits would be
+dangerous to ships, from the many sunken rocks which we observed near
+the southern shore.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenotel">Monday, 7th.</span>Embarking at two <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> on the 7th, we crossed a deeply
+indented bay, which was named after Lieutenant-Colonel Pasley, of the
+Royal Engineers, to whose invention we owe the portable boat, named the
+Walnut-shell, which we carried out with us. On the east side of Pasley
+Cove there are some bold limestone cliffs, that form the extremity of a
+promontory, to which we gave the name of Cape Krusenstern, in honour of
+the distinguished Russian hydrographer. It lies in latitude 68&deg; 23'
+N., longitude 113&deg; 45' W., and is the most eastern part of the main
+land which we coasted. From a cliff, two hundred feet high, two miles to
+the southward of Cape Krusenstern, we had a distinct view of the high
+land about Inman's Harbour, on the western side of Cape Barrow, which
+was the most easterly land seen on this voyage, and lies in longitude
+111&deg; 20' W. The space between Capes Barrow and Krusenstern is
+crowded with islands.</p>
+
+<p>By entering George the Fourth's Coronation Gulf at Cape Krusenstern, we
+connected the discoveries of this voyage with those made by Captain
+Franklin on his former expedition, and had the honour of completing a
+portion of the north-west passage, for which the reward of five thousand
+pounds was established by his Majesty's Order in Council, but as it was
+not contemplated, in framing the Order, that the discovery should be
+made from west to east, and in vessels so small as the Dolphin and
+Union, we could not lay claim to the pecuniary reward.</p>
+
+<p>While the party were at breakfast I visited Mount Barrow, which is a
+steep hill about three hundred feet high, surrounded by a moat fifty or
+sixty feet wide and twenty deep, and having a flat summit bounded by
+precipices of limestone. Three banks, like causeways, afforded the means
+of crossing the moat, and the hill altogether formed a remarkably
+complete natural fortification. The Esquimaux had marked most of the
+prominent points in this quarter, by erecting piles of stones similar to
+the cairns built for land-marks by the shepherds in Scotland. These
+erections were occasionally noticed, after doubling Cape Parry, but they
+were more numerous here. The ice which <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_215" id="Page_215">[Pg 215]</a></span>we saw this day was in
+form of loose streams, and offered no material impediment. Several
+wreaths of snow lay at the base of the cliffs that had a northern
+exposure, being the remains of that which had accumulated in the winter.</p>
+
+<p>The latitude 68&deg; 13' N. was observed at noon on a low point which
+projected from some higher lands. From this point, which was named after
+Edward H. Locker, Esq., Secretary to the Royal Hospital at Greenwich, we
+had a view of Cape Hearne, the form of which I thought I recognised from
+my recollections of it on the former voyage. We reached Cape Hearne in
+the evening, having in the afternoon skirted a low and indented coast; a
+bay immediately to the north of it was named after Captain Basil Hall,
+of the Royal Navy. Cape Hearne itself is a low point, not visible from
+the mouth of the Coppermine; but the high land behind it, when seen from
+a distance, appears like a steep promontory, and is that designated as
+Cape Hearne in Captain Franklin's chart of his former voyage. The
+latitude of this cape is 68&deg; 11' N., and its longitude 114&deg; 54'
+W. The length of the day's voyage was forty miles. Many deer were seen
+here, and Ooligbuck killed a very fine one in the evening. After
+encamping I went a few miles into the interior, and found that the
+country was composed of limestone, which rose by a succession of
+terraces to the height of about three hundred feet above the sea. The
+heat of the day was considerable, the thermometer, when exposed to the
+rays of the sun, indicating 86&deg;, without the bulb being blackened,
+or any other means used to retain the heat.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenote">Tuesday, 8th.</span>Embarking early on the eighth, and passing through several
+loose streams of ice, some pieces of which were twenty-four feet thick,
+we landed at nine o'clock on a bold cape to prepare breakfast. It is
+formed of columnar greenstone, reposing on slaty limestone, and rising
+precipitously from the sea to the height of three hundred and fifty
+feet. I named this well marked point Cape Kendall, after my highly
+esteemed friend and companion, and had the pleasure of pointing out to
+him, from its summit, the gap in the hills at Bloody Fall, through which
+the Coppermine River flows. Mr. Kendall having taken the necessary
+bearings and sketches for the completion of his chart, we descended the
+hill to announce to the men, that a short traverse would bring us to the
+mouth of the Coppermine River. As we were aware of the disappointment
+which often springs from the premature excitement of hope, we had not
+previously acquainted them with our near approach to the termination of
+our voyage; fearing that an unfavourable trending of <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_216" id="Page_216">[Pg 216]</a></span>coast, or
+an intervening body of ice, might protract it some days longer than we
+expected. The gratifying intelligence that we now conveyed to them, was,
+therefore, totally unexpected, and the pleasure they experienced found
+vent in heartfelt expressions of gratitude to the Divine Being, for his
+protection on the voyage. At noon the latitude of Cape Kendall was
+ascertained to be 67&deg; 58' N., and its longitude by reckoning was
+115&deg; 18' W.</p>
+
+<p>Re-embarking, we steered for the mouth of the Coppermine River with the
+sails set to a fine breeze, plying the oars at the same time, and on
+rounding Cape Kendall, we opened a magnificent inlet, or bay, rendered
+very picturesque by the manner in which its lofty cliffs came
+successively in sight as we crossed its mouth. We distinguished it by
+the name of our mutual friend and companion Captain Back. One of
+Couper's Islands, on which we landed, consists of greenstone, rising
+from the water like steps of a stair; and from its summit we perceived
+that a low piece of land, which, on the former voyage, had been mistaken
+for an island, was, in fact, the extremity of Point Mackenzie, and that
+Richardson River was merely a ravine, now dry.<a name="FNanchor_12_12" id="FNanchor_12_12"></a><a href="#Footnote_12_12" class="fnanchor">[12]</a> Having reached the
+mouth of the Coppermine River, we encamped within a hundred yards of the
+position of the tents on Captain Franklin's former Expedition. Some
+half-burnt wood, the remains of the fires then made, were still lying on
+the spot; and I also recognised the Esquimaux stage, which we visited on
+that occasion, but there were no skins nor utensils on it now.</p>
+
+<p>The completion of our sea voyage so early in the season was a subject of
+mutual congratulation to us all; and to Mr. Kendall and myself it was
+highly gratifying to behold our men still fresh and vigorous, and ready
+to commence the laborious march across the barren grounds, with the same
+spirit that they had shown in overcoming the obstacles which presented
+themselves to their progress by sea. We all felt that the comfort and
+ease with which the voyage had been performed, were greatly owing to the
+judicious and plentiful provision of stores and food which Captain
+Franklin had made for us; and gratitude for his care mingling with the
+pleasure excited by our success, and directing our thoughts more
+strongly to his party, the most ardent wishes were expressed that they
+might prove equally fortunate. The correctness of Mr. Kendall's
+reckoning was another source of pleasure. Having been deprived<span class='pagenum'><a
+name="Page_217" id="Page_217">[Pg 217]</a></span> of the aid of chronometers, by
+the breaking of the two intended for the eastern detachment of the
+Expedition, during the intense winter cold, our only resource for
+correcting the dead reckoning was lunar observations, made as
+frequently as opportunities offered; yet when we approached the
+Coppermine River, Mr. Kendall's reckoning differed from the position of
+that place, ascertained on Captain Franklin's former Expedition, only
+twenty seconds of time, or about two miles and a half of distance, which
+is a very trifling difference when the length of the voyage and the
+other circumstances are taken into consideration. The distance between
+Point Separation and the mouth of the Coppermine River, by the route we
+pursued, is nine hundred and two geographical miles.</p>
+
+<p>In our progress along the coast no opportunity was omitted of noting the
+times of high-water, and a tide-table drawn up by Mr. Kendall, is given
+in pages 236, 237. We nowhere observed the rise of the tide to exceed
+twenty-two inches, and in some places it was not more than eight or
+nine; but the velocity of the flood and ebb was greater than could have
+been expected from so small a rise. Off the Alluvial Islands, lying
+between the outlets of the Mackenzie River and Esquimaux Lake, it was in
+the strength of the flood about a mile an hour; at Cape Bathurst it
+exceeded a mile and a half; and in the Dolphin and Union Straits it was
+fully three miles. The stream of the flood set every where from the
+eastward.</p>
+
+<p>The variation of the magnetic needle, which was forty-six degrees
+easterly at Point Separation, attained to 50&deg; at Refuge Cove,
+53&deg; at Point Maitland, and 56&deg; at Cape Parry; after which it
+gradually decreased as we went to the south-east; and at the mouth of
+the Coppermine, it was 48&deg;.</p>
+
+<p>We saw no ice that would have much impeded a ship, except between Sir
+George Clerk's Island and Cape Bexley, where it was heavy and closely
+packed. The appearance, however, of lanes of open water towards
+Wollaston Land, opposite to Cape Bexley, induced us to think that there
+might be a good passage for a ship on the outside of the ice, which
+lined the south shore, and which seems to have been packed into the
+indentations of the coast by the strong north-west winds that had
+prevailed for some days. A ship would find shelter amongst the islands
+of George the Fourth's Coronation Gulf, in Back's Inlet, in Darnley Bay,
+and amongst Booth's Islands, lying off Cape Parry; but the bottom, at
+the latter place, is rocky, and there are many sunken rocks along the
+whole of that coast. To the westward of Cape Parry, we saw no ship
+harbours, and the many sand-banks skirting the outlets <span class='pagenum'><a
+name="Page_218" id="Page_218">[Pg 218]</a></span>of Esquimaux Lake would render it
+dangerous for a ship to approach the shore in that quarter. There is
+such an abundance of drift-timber on almost every part of the coast,
+that a sufficient supply of fuel for a ship might easily be collected,
+and wherever we landed on the main shore we found streams or small lakes
+of fresh water. Should the course of events ever introduce a
+steam-vessel into those seas, it may be important to know that in
+coasting the shores between Cape Bathurst and the Mackenzie, fire-wood
+sufficient for her daily consumption may be gathered, and that near the
+Babbage River, to the westward of the Mackenzie, a tertiary pitch-coal
+exists of excellent quality, which Captain Franklin describes as forming
+extensive beds.</p>
+
+<p>The height to which the drift-timber is thrown up on the shores at the
+western entrance of the Dolphin and Union Straits is, I think, an
+indication of an occasional great rise in the sea, which, as the tides
+are in comparison so insignificant, I can ascribe only to the north-west
+winds driving the waters of an open sea towards the funnel-shaped
+entrance of the straits. If this view is correct, Wollaston Land
+probably extends far to the north, and closely adjoins to Banks' Land,
+or is connected with it. Captain Parry found the strait between Melville
+Island and Banks' Land obstructed by ice, and this will naturally be
+generally the case, both there and in the Dolphin and Union Straits, if
+they form the principal openings through a range of extensive islands,
+which run north and south, and bound a large tract of sea, comparatively
+free from land. The heat of the summer in that quarter seems to be
+always or almost always sufficient to admit of the ice breaking up, but
+not powerful enough to dissolve it entirely. Hence the loose ice driven
+about by the winds, and carried to the lee-side of the wider expanses of
+sea, is firmly packed in the narrow straits and winding passages amongst
+the islands, from whence it can be dislodged only by a concurrence of
+very favourable circumstances, and where the waste by the solar rays is
+replaced by every breeze blowing from the open sea. The north-west winds
+being the strongest and most prevalent in the latter part of the summer,
+it is at the western end of a strait that the ice is most frequently and
+closely packed. Captain Parry remarks that "there was something peculiar
+about the south-west extremity of Melville Island, which made the icy
+sea there extremely unfavourable to navigation, and which seemed to bid
+defiance to all efforts to proceed farther to the westward in that
+parallel of latitude." The Dolphin and Union Straits hold out greater
+prospects of success for a similar at<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_219" id="Page_219">[Pg 219]</a></span>tempt, not only from their
+more southern position, but from the strong current of flood and ebb
+which flows through them and keeps the ice in motion.</p>
+
+<p>We noticed on the coast about one hundred and seventy
+<i>ph&aelig;nogamous</i>, or flowering plants, being one-fifth of the number
+of species which exist fifteen degrees of latitude farther to the
+southward. The grasses, bents, and rushes, constitute only one-fifth of
+the number of species on the coast, but the two former tribes actually
+cover more ground than all the rest of the vegetation. The cruciferous,
+or cress-like tribes afford one-seventh of the species, and the compound
+flowers are nearly as numerous. The <i>shrubby plants</i> that reach the
+sea-coast are the common juniper, two species of willow, the dwarf Birch
+(<i>betula glandulosa</i>), the common alder, the hippophae, a gooseberry,
+the red bearberry (<i>arbutus uva ursi</i>), the Labrador tea plant, (<i>ledum
+palustre</i>,) the Lapland rose (<i>rhododendron lapponicum</i>,) the bog
+whortleberry (<i>vaccinium uliginosum</i>,) and the crow-berry (<i>empetrum
+nigrum</i>.) The kidney-leaved oxyria grows in great luxuriance there, and
+occasionally furnished us with an agreeable addition to our meals, as it
+resembles the garden sorrel in flavour, but is more juicy and tender. It
+is eaten by the natives, and must, as well as many of the cress-like
+plants, prove an excellent corrective of the gross, oily, rancid, and
+frequently putrid meat, on which they subsist. The small bulbs of the
+Alpine bistort (<i>polygonum viviparum</i>,) and the long, succulent, and
+sweet roots of many of the <i>astragale&aelig;</i>, which grow on the sandy
+shores, are eatable; but we did not learn that the Esquimaux were
+acquainted with their use. A few clumps of white spruce-fir, with some
+straggling black spruces and canoe birches, grow at the distance of
+twenty or thirty miles from the sea, in sheltered situations, on the
+banks of rivers.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_220" id="Page_220">[Pg 220]</a></span><i>ABSTRACT of the Meteorological Register, kept by the Eastern
+Detachment, in their Voyage between the Mouths of the Mackenzie and
+Coppermine Rivers.</i></p>
+
+<table class="lines" width="100%"> <tr><td align="center" rowspan="2">Date.</td><td align="center" colspan="3">Temperature in the Shade.</td><td align="center" rowspan="2">Direction of the Winds.</td><td rowspan="2">Weather and
+Remarks.</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">Lowest.</td><td align="center">Highest.</td><td align="center">Mean.</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">July 9</td><td align="center">32</td><td align="center">38</td><td align="center">35</td><td align="center">East; NEbE.</td><td>Fresh breezes.
+Clear sky with fog over the ice.</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">10</td><td align="center">45</td><td align="center">57</td><td align="center">51</td><td align="center">ESE.</td><td>Strong breezes, clear
+weather.</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">11</td><td align="center">42</td><td align="center">51</td><td align="center">43</td><td align="center">East.</td><td>Strong breezes, clear sky, and bright sun.</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">12</td><td align="center">45</td><td
+align="center">50</td><td align="center">47</td><td align="center">Do.</td><td>Ditto,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;ditto.</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center">13</td><td align="center">46</td><td align="center">57</td><td align="center">52</td><td align="center">East; SE.</td><td>Moderate breezes. Clear sky; rain in the night.</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">14</td><td align="center">42</td><td
+align="center">42</td><td align="center">42</td><td align="center">West.</td><td>Heavy gales. Thick fog.</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">15</td><td align="center">53</td><td align="center">57</td><td align="center">55</td><td align="center">Nearly calm.</td><td>Very
+fine weather.</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">16</td><td align="center">38</td><td align="center">55</td><td align="center">47</td><td align="center">South.</td><td>Moderate breezes. Cloudy <span class="smcap">a.m.</span>, clear <span class="smcap">p.m.</span></td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center">17</td><td align="center">50</td><td align="center">62</td><td align="center">54</td><td align="center">West; North.</td><td>Fog <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> When wind veered to north cleared up.
+Temperature of sea 55&deg;.</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">18</td><td align="center">45</td><td align="center">56</td><td align="center">50</td><td align="center">South; East.</td><td>Light airs <span class="smcap">a.m.</span>; fresh
+breezes <span class="smcap">p.m.</span>; calm in the night.</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">19</td><td align="center">44</td><td align="center">54</td><td align="center">49</td><td align="center">East; West.</td><td>Fresh breezes and
+cloudy <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> Four <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> West wind and foggy weather.</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">20</td><td align="center">46</td><td align="center">50</td><td align="center">48</td><td align="center">NW.,
+WNW.</td><td>Foggy; fresh breezes <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> Increased to a strong gale <span class="smcap">p.m.</span></td></tr> <tr><td align="center">21</td><td align="center">42</td><td align="center">48</td><td
+align="center">46</td><td align="center">WNW.; NW.</td><td>Fresh breezes and foggy <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> Fine and clear
+<span class="smcap">p.m.</span></td></tr> <tr><td align="center">22</td><td align="center">45</td><td align="center">47</td><td align="center">46</td><td align="center">South.</td><td>Fresh breezes <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> Fine weather <span class="smcap">p.m.</span></td></tr> <tr><td align="center">23</td><td align="center">46</td><td align="center">58</td><td align="center">52</td><td
+align="center">SW.</td><td>Moderate and cloudy. Many Musquitoes.</td></tr> </table>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_221" id="Page_221">[Pg 221]</a></span><i>Meteorological Register, &amp;c.&mdash;Concluded.</i></p>
+
+<table class="lines" width="100%"> <tr><td align="center" rowspan="2">Date.</td><td align="center" colspan="3">Temperature in the Shade.</td><td align="center" rowspan="2">Direction of the Winds.</td><td rowspan="2">Weather and
+Remarks.</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">Lowest.</td><td align="center">Highest.</td><td align="center">Mean.</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">July 24</td><td align="center">50</td><td align="center">76</td><td align="center">66</td><td align="center">West.</td><td>Moderate breezes. Foggy
+<span class="smcap">a.m.</span> Occasionally hazy <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> Myriads of Musquitoes.</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">25</td><td align="center">45</td><td align="center">66</td><td align="center">55</td><td align="center">South;
+NE.</td><td>Fine <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> Strong gales and partial fogs <span class="smcap">p.m.</span></td></tr> <tr><td align="center">26</td><td align="center">35</td><td align="center">47</td><td align="center">41</td><td align="center">NE.</td><td>Strong gales
+and clear. Temperature of sea 35&deg;.</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">27</td><td align="center">35</td><td align="center">45</td><td align="center">40</td><td align="center">ENE.</td><td>Moderate.</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">28</td><td align="center">35</td><td align="center">50</td><td align="center">42</td><td
+align="center">Calm; North.</td><td>Fine clear weather.</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">29</td><td align="center">37</td><td align="center">41</td><td align="center">38</td><td align="center">WNW.</td><td>Moderate
+breezes; foggy.</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">30</td><td align="center">36</td><td align="center">40</td><td align="center">38</td><td align="center">WNW.</td><td>Fog hanging over the ice; clear inland;
+moderate breezes.</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">31</td><td align="center">38</td><td align="center">45</td><td align="center">41</td><td align="center">NW.</td><td>Moderate breezes; occasionally hazy, fog
+over the ice.</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">Aug. 1</td><td align="center">43</td><td align="center">50</td><td align="center">48</td><td align="center">West.</td><td>Moderate breezes; hazy to seaward.</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">2</td><td align="center">34</td><td
+align="center">50</td><td align="center">41</td><td align="center">West; variable.</td><td>Hazy and occasionally foggy.</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">3</td><td align="center">38</td><td align="center">43</td><td
+align="center">40</td><td align="center">NE.; East.</td><td>Light breezes and clear.</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">4</td><td align="center">38</td><td align="center">55</td><td align="center">46</td><td align="center">NE.; ESE.</td><td>Fine
+clear weather.</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">5</td><td align="center">39</td><td align="center">56</td><td align="center">47</td><td align="center">EbS.;
+WSW.</td><td>Do.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Moderate p.m.</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">6</td><td align="center">42</td><td align="center">56</td><td align="center">47</td><td align="center">South;
+variable.</td><td>Do.</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">7</td><td align="center">36</td><td align="center">68</td><td align="center">52</td><td align="center">SSE.</td><td>Fine and very clear. Temperature in the sun
+86&deg;.</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">8</td><td align="center">44</td><td align="center">60</td><td align="center">52</td><td align="center">North.</td><td>Do.</td></tr> <tr><td align="center"></td><td align="center">41.45</td><td align="center">51.92</td><td align="center">46.48</td><td align="center"></td><td align="center"></td></tr> </table>
+
+<p><br /></p>
+
+<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_9_9" id="Footnote_9_9"></a><a href="#FNanchor_9_9"><span class="label">[9]</span></a>The appearance of whales on the north coast, nearly midway between
+the nearest passages into Behring's and Barrow's Straits, and upwards of
+a thousand miles distant from either, affords subject for interesting
+speculation. It is known that they must come frequently to the surface
+to breathe, and the following questions naturally arise:&mdash;Are there
+at all seasons large spaces of open water in the Arctic Seas? or do
+these animals travel from the Atlantic or Pacific Oceans immediately on
+the breaking up of the ice off Cape Bathurst, and so early in the season
+as the middle of July; while the sea, to the eastward and westward, is
+still covered with ice? if the latter is the fact, it is a very curious
+part of the natural history of these animals. The Esquimaux informed us,
+that they are rarely seen when the ice lies close, and in accordance
+with this remark Captain Franklin saw few to the westward, and we also
+lost them as we approached the Coppermine River, and met with more ice.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_10_10" id="Footnote_10_10"></a><a href="#FNanchor_10_10"><span class="label">[10]</span></a>Since the above passage was written, the world has had to mourn the
+loss of this distinguished statesman and philosopher.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_11_11" id="Footnote_11_11"></a><a href="#FNanchor_11_11"><span class="label">[11]</span></a>Its latitude was ascertained by meridional observations to be
+68&deg; 58' N.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_12_12" id="Footnote_12_12"></a><a href="#FNanchor_12_12"><span class="label">[12]</span></a>Captain Franklin has since transferred the name of Richardson to the
+Bay between Point Mackenzie and the mouth of the Coppermine River.</p></div> </div>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" /> <p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_222" id="Page_222">[Pg 222]</a></span></p> <h4><a name="PROCEEDINGS_OF_THE_EASTERN_DETACHMENT_CONCLUDED" id="PROCEEDINGS_OF_THE_EASTERN_DETACHMENT_CONCLUDED"></a>PROCEEDINGS OF THE EASTERN DETACHMENT CONCLUDED.</h4>
+
+<h2>CHAPTER IV.</h2>
+
+<p><small>Ascend the Coppermine River&mdash;Abandon the Boats and
+Stores&mdash;Commence the Land Journey&mdash;Cross the Copper Mountains
+and Height of Land&mdash;Meet Indians who bring Provisions&mdash;Arrive
+at Great Bear Lake&mdash;Detained by want of a Boat&mdash;Send out
+Hunters&mdash;Arrival of Beaulieu&mdash;Collect the Party, and proceed
+to Fort Franklin&mdash;Conclusion.</small></p>
+
+
+<p><span class="sidenotel">Wednesday, 9th.</span><span class="smcap">At</span> four o'clock in the morning of the 9th of August, we
+left our encampment at the mouth of the Coppermine River, and proceeded
+in the boats to Bloody Fall, a distance of about eleven miles. The river
+was very low, and, in many places, there was scarcely water enough for
+our boats, which did not draw more than fourteen inches. On the
+preceding evening an Esquimaux dog had come to our encampment: his
+meagre aspect showed that he had fared badly, and hunger had rendered
+him so tame that he readily ate from our hands. After following us a
+considerable way up the river he left us; and we found, on our arrival
+at Bloody Fall, that a party of Esquimaux had just quitted that place;
+probably having discovered us from a distance.</p>
+
+<p>The Coppermine River, for forty miles above Bloody Fall, flows over an
+uneven stony bed, betwixt precipitous rocky walls, and is full of
+rapids. It is totally impracticable to ascend it in boats having a
+greater draught of water than a few inches; and even a small canoe must
+be frequently carried over land for considerable distances, to avoid the
+numerous obstacles which occur. It was necessary, therefore, that we
+should leave at this place the Dolphin and Union, and every thing that
+was not absolutely necessary for our journey. We determined, however, on
+taking with us Colonel Pasley's canvass boat, the Walnut-shell, in the
+hope of its occasionally relieving the men of their burdens for a short
+time, should any part of <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_223" id="Page_223">[Pg 223]</a></span>the river admit of its use. The
+afternoon was employed in arranging the loads for crossing the barren
+grounds. Twenty pounds of pemmican were allotted to each man, and the
+packages of maccaroni, arrow-root, portable-soup, chocolate, sugar, and
+tea, were equally distributed; together with the nautical almanack,
+astronomical tables, charts, two fishing nets, the collection of plants,
+specimens of rocks, and the portable boat, kettles, and hatchets; all of
+which, with the blankets, spare shoes, guns, and ammunition, made a load
+of about seventy-two pounds a man. Mr. Kendall undertook to carry the
+sextant and azimuth-compass; and I took the artificial horizon and a
+package of paper for drying plants, besides which we each carried a
+blanket, gun, and ammunition. As I feared that some of the party would
+over-rate their strength, and, through a desire of saving some favourite
+article, load themselves too heavily at the outset, which could not fail
+to prove very injurious to the regularity and speed of our march, I
+informed them, that, as soon as we were at a convenient distance from
+our present encampment, I should halt and examine all their bundles.</p>
+
+<p>The boats were drawn up on shore, out of the reach of any flood, and the
+remainder of the articles, that we had brought to give the Esquimaux,
+were put into boxes and placed in the tents, that they might be readily
+found by the first party of that nation that passed this way. They
+consisted of fish-hooks, lines, hatchets, knives, files, fire-steels,
+kettles, combs, awls, needles, thread, blue and red cloth, gartering,
+and beads, sufficient to serve a considerable number of Esquimaux for
+several years. The tents were securely pitched, and the Union Jack
+hoisted, partly for the purpose of attracting the attention of the
+natives, and partly to show them the mode of using the tents, which may
+prove to be very useful in their summer journeys. That no accident might
+occur from the natives finding any of our powder, all that we did not
+require to take with us was thrown into the river.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenote">Thursday, 10th.</span>At six o'clock on the morning of the 10th, after the men
+had been down to the beach to take a last look of our little boats, we
+began our march to Bear Lake, intending to keep on the banks of the
+Coppermine as far as its bend at the Copper Mountains, and to strike
+from thence straight across the hills for the mouth of Dease's River,
+which falls into the north-east arm of Bear Lake. We set off at a pretty
+quick pace, and the first hill, after leaving our encampment, being
+steep, tried the wind of most of the party, so that the few who had
+loaded themselves with superfluous articles,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_224" id="Page_224">[Pg 224]</a></span> were glad to throw
+them away during a short halt on its summit, and when I examined their
+packages, at the next resting-place, I found little to reject. A path
+beaten by the rein-deer and the Esquimaux conducted us down the southern
+face of this range of hill to the plain beneath, when we halted to
+prepare breakfast, and to make some further arrangements, as several of
+the party, being unaccustomed to carry loads, advanced slowly. After
+breakfast the portable boat was put together, and the baggage being
+placed in it, we endeavoured to tow it up the river, but found this to
+be impracticable, owing to the badness of the towing-path, the numerous
+high cliffs which bound the stream, and the form of the boat, which
+permitted the water in strong rapids to flow over its bows. This boat
+was admirably adapted for the purpose for which it was constructed by
+Colonel Pasley, that of crossing a river or lake, as we had ascertained
+by previous trials; but we knew that no river, except such as we could
+ford, could occur on our route to Bear Lake; and I, therefore,
+determined on leaving it, together with half a bag of arrow-root, and
+five muskets, by which the loads were reduced about fifteen pounds a
+man. The march was then resumed with alacrity, and, notwithstanding that
+the day was hot and sultry, we proceeded with greater speed and
+satisfaction. Mr. Kendall walked at the head of the line at a steady
+pace, halting for five minutes every half hour to rest the party, and
+prevent straggling. At five we encamped, having marched about six miles
+in a direct line. The route throughout the journey was regulated, from
+time to time, by our taking the bearing of a distant hill, or other
+conspicuous object, by the compass, and walking directly for it; and the
+distance was estimated by noting the time and guessing the rate of our
+march. Of this, which was in general a little more than two miles an
+hour, previous practice had enabled us to judge so correctly, that the
+estimate seldom erred more than a mile a day. The error, whatever it
+was, was always corrected at noon, when the latitude was observed, and
+the course and distance were then calculated anew.</p>
+
+<p>During the day several small herds of rein-deer were seen, but I would
+not permit any one to leave the line of march to go in pursuit of them;
+after encamping, however, M'Leay killed a fine buck. A solitary stunted
+spruce-fir grew near our encampment, and the most northerly clump on the
+river was seen about two miles to the southward. When supper was over
+and a watch set, we stretched ourselves on the ground, and soon sunk
+into sound sleep. The temperature at sunset was 62&deg;.<span class='pagenum'><a
+name="Page_225" id="Page_225">[Pg 225]</a></span></p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenote">Friday, 11th.</span>Setting out on the 11th, at six in the morning, we halted
+to breakfast at nine, and Mr. Kendall took an observation at noon, in
+latitude 67&deg; 33' N. We encamped at half past five <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> amongst some
+small pines. The day was fine, and a fresh easterly wind rendered it
+agreeable for walking; but the men were much annoyed by their burdens,
+and appeared jaded when we halted for the night. Their loads could not
+have exceeded fifty-two pounds each, but the frequent ascent and descent
+in crossing the small hills that lay in our way, and the occasional
+sponginess of the ground, and insecurity of footing, rendered marching
+much more laborious than it would have been on a hard English highway.
+The direct distance travelled this day was about twelve miles. We saw
+many gray Arctic marmots (<i>Arctomys Parryi</i>,) sporting near their
+burrows, and a little terrier dog, which had been our fellow voyager
+from England, showed much dexterity in cutting off their retreat, and
+succeeded in catching several of them. The dog's long confinement in the
+boat rendered the exercise he now took very fatiguing, and when we
+halted for the night he was the most tired of the party. Many young
+rein-deer were also seen, and after we encamped Ooligbuck killed one.
+The temperature in the evening was 50&deg;, but the night was cold.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenote">Saturday, 12th.</span>Our march on the 12th was rendered pleasant by a cool
+northerly breeze, and the men being now familiar with their loads, which
+had also suffered some diminution by the preceding evening's repast, we
+made a more rapid progress. The length of the march was seventeen miles,
+being, exclusive of the half hourly halts and the time occupied by
+breakfast, at the rate of two miles and a half an hour. In the course of
+the day we crossed several ridges of the Copper Mountains to avoid a
+bend of the river. The Whisky-John (<i>corvus Canadensis</i>) visited our
+encampment in the evening for the first time since we left the
+Mackenzie.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenote">Sunday, 13th.</span>On the 13th, commencing the day's march at five <span class="smcap">a.m.</span>, we
+walked along the banks of the river until nine, when we halted to
+prepare breakfast, at the place where Captain Franklin encamped on the
+11th of July 1821. After breakfast we forded the small stream, on the
+banks of which several pieces of native copper and some copper ore were
+found on the former Expedition. A quantity of ice formed by snow,
+consolidated by the oozing of the stream, still remained in the bed of
+this rivulet.</p>
+
+<p>At noon the latitude was observed in 67&deg; 13' N., and as we were now
+on the spot where the Coppermine makes the near<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_226" id="Page_226">[Pg 226]</a></span>est approach to
+the north-east arm of Bear Lake, we decided on striking directly from
+this place to the mouth of Dease's River, and the course and distance
+were accordingly calculated. Our route lay over rocks of old red
+sandstone, clay-slate, and greenstone disposed in ridges, which had a
+direction from E.S.E. to W.N.W. The sides of many of the ridges were
+precipitous, and their uneven and stony summits were two hundred or two
+hundred and fifty feet high. The valleys were generally swampy and
+abounded in small lakes. A few scattered and thin clumps of pines
+existed in the more sheltered spots, but the country was, in general,
+naked. Several burrows of wolves were seen in the mountains. We crossed
+two small streams in the course of the day, flowing towards the
+Coppermine, and encamped at four <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> on the banks of a small lake.
+Sand-flies, the first we had seen this season, were numerous and
+troublesome in the evening, the temperature then being 53&deg;.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenotel">Monday, 14th.</span>Setting out at five <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> on the 14th, we halted to
+breakfast at nine, after a pretty brisk walk through a country entirely
+destitute of wood. Some partridges, which were so tame as to be easily
+killed with stones, furnished us with an agreeable variety of diet. A
+meridional observation was obtained in latitude 67&deg; 10' N. In
+endeavouring to get round the south end of a small chain of lakes, which
+lay in our route, we were stopped by a narrow stream about six feet
+deep, flowing from them towards the Coppermine River; but, on sounding
+the lake a little way from the head of the stream, we found that it was
+fordable without difficulty. We marched to a late hour in search of fuel
+to cook some deer's meat, which M'Leay had procured in the course of the
+day, and were fortunate in at length finding a wooded valley on the
+banks of a small stream, that fell into the chain of lakes which we had
+crossed. It is probably this river, and chain of lakes, that the Indians
+ascend from the Coppermine River in canoes to the height of land which
+they cross on their route to Bear Lake.<a name="FNanchor_13_13" id="FNanchor_13_13"></a><a href="#Footnote_13_13" class="fnanchor">[13]</a> The ridges of hill over
+which we marched on this day consisted of spotted sandstone and
+porphyry. The temperature in the evening was 47&deg;, and the night was
+frosty. Two white wolves took a survey of our bivouack, but did not
+venture within gun-shot.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenotel">Tuesday, 15th.</span>Starting on the 15th at five o'clock, we marched until
+eight, when we halted to breakfast. The air felt very cold, although the
+thermometer was <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_227" id="Page_227">[Pg 227]</a></span>not below 39&deg;. In the early part of the day
+we crossed some ridges of sandstone, and towards noon we travelled over
+granite, similar to that which abounds in the neighbourhood of Fort
+Enterprize. Much wood was seen in a valley far to the westward, but the
+hills over which our course lay were quite naked. The bog whortleberry
+(<i>vaccinium uliginosum</i>,) however, grew abundantly on these hills, and
+as its fruit was now in the highest perfection, the men at every
+resting-place threw themselves down, and indulged freely, without
+sustaining any injury.</p>
+
+<p>In the afternoon our route was over nearly horizontal strata of spotted
+sandstone and conglomerate. About three o'clock we had gained the summit
+of the height of land separating the Coppermine River from Great Bear
+Lake, and obtained from it an extensive view of a lower and well wooded
+country; but all the grounds in our immediate neighbourhood consisted of
+barren sandstone strata. After looking in vain for a comfortable
+sleeping-place, as the night threatened to be stormy, and a moist and
+cold fog was setting in, we were obliged to content ourselves with
+building a rude shelter with blocks of sandstone; and to use for firing
+a black lichen (<i>cornicularia divergens</i>,) which, fortunately, grew
+plentifully in the crevices of the rock. The distance walked this day
+was about fourteen miles. We had no meridional observations, because the
+sky was obscured.</p>
+
+<p>We had supped, and most of the men had retired to rest, when Mr.
+Kendall, in sweeping the horizon with his telescope, saw three Indians
+coming down a hill, and directing their steps towards us. More moss was
+immediately thrown on the fire, and the St. George's ensign hoisted on
+the end of a musquet, to point out to the comers who we were; but as
+they hid the youngest of their number in a ravine, at the foot of the
+hill, and the two seniors seemed to approach slowly and with suspicion,
+Mr. Kendall and I went unarmed to meet them. They came up, one with his
+bow and arrows in his hand, and the other with his gun cocked; but as
+soon as they recognised our dress, which was the same that I had worn in
+our voyage round Bear Lake, the preceding autumn, when I had seen most
+of the Hare Indian tribe, they shouted in an ecstasy of joy, shook hands
+most cordially with us, and called loudly for the young lad to come up.
+The meeting was no less gratifying to us: these people had brought furs
+and provisions to Fort Franklin in the winter, and they now seemed to be
+friends come to rejoice with us on the termination of our voyage. We
+learned from them, partly by signs, and partly from the little <span class='pagenum'><a
+name="Page_228" id="Page_228">[Pg 228]</a></span>we understood of their language,
+that by the advice of It-chinnah, the Hare Indian Chief, they had been
+hunting for some time in this neighbourhood, in the hopes of falling in
+with us on our way from the sea; that they would give us all the
+provision they had collected, accompany us to Bear Lake, and warn all
+the Indians in the neighbourhood of our arrival. They appeared much
+surprised, when, placing the compass on the ground, we showed them the
+exact bearing of the mouth of Dease's River; and they were not able to
+comprehend how we knew the way in a quarter through which we had never
+travelled. They said, however, that they would conduct us in the morning
+to the Indian portage road, where we would have better walking than by
+keeping the direct route across the hills. We had reserved but little
+that we could present to these kind people, though every one contrived
+to muster some small article for them, which they gratefully received.
+They were dressed, after the manner of their tribe, with fillets of
+deer-skin round their heads and wrists, and carried in their hands a
+pair of deer's horns and a few willow twigs, which are all serviceable
+in enabling them to approach the rein-deer, in the way described by Mr.
+Wentzel in the Narrative of Captain Franklin's former voyage.</p>
+
+<p>Ooligbuck, who had gone out to hunt, returned in the night. He met an
+Indian who had just killed a deer with an arrow, and had tried to
+persuade him to come to us; but neither of them understood the other's
+language, and the Indian, probably terrified by the sight of an
+Esquimaux armed with a gun, presented him with a piece of the deer's
+meat, and then made off in an opposite direction. Many of the Hare
+Indians abstain from visiting the forts for several years, and it is
+possible that this one had not heard of us, or at least had not received
+a distinct account of our intention of returning his way, and of our
+having an Esquimaux with us. Our Indian friends told us that they did
+not know that any of their countrymen were hunting in the direction
+which Ooligbuck pointed out.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenotel">Wednesday, 16th.</span>On the 16th a thick fog prevented us from quitting our
+bivouack until seven o'clock, when the Indians led us down the hill
+about a mile to the portage road, and we resumed the precise line of
+march that we had followed from the Coppermine River, (S. 63&deg; W.)
+Such of our Highlandmen as had been in the service of the Hudson's Bay
+Company, and, consequently knew from experience the difficulty of
+travelling through a country without guides, could not help expressing
+their surprise at the justness of the course we had followed. We had not
+concealed from them, that from <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_229" id="Page_229">[Pg 229]</a></span>want of observations, or from the
+difficulty of estimating the distance walked, we might err a mile or two
+in our reckoning, so that they were prepared, on our reaching Bear Lake,
+to turn a little to the right or left in search of the river; but they
+had scarcely hoped to have reached that point without having to perform
+a single mile of unnecessary walking.</p>
+
+<p>The portage-road conducted us in a short time to the principal branch of
+Dease's River, on the banks of which, at the distance of six miles from
+our encampment, we halted to breakfast. The stream there receives
+another branch, but it is fordable without difficulty, being nowhere
+much above knee-deep. A little way further to the westward, however, it
+is less rapid, and forms frequent lake-like expansions. Our march from
+last night's encampment was over sandstone rocks, and down a pretty
+rapid ascent. The ground was barren in the extreme, except at our
+breakfasting place, where there was a convenient clump of wood and a
+profusion of whortleberries. Having finished this meal, we resumed the
+march, with the intention of halting a few miles further on, that our
+Indian friends might rejoin us with their provision, which lay in store
+to the southward of our route. We therefore encamped at half past two
+o'clock in a pleasant pine clump, and immediately set fire to a tree to
+apprize the Indians of our situation. They arrived at sunset, heavily
+laden with tongues, fat, and half-dried meat; and M'Leay also killed two
+deer after we encamped, so that we revelled in abundance. The length of
+the day's journey was fourteen miles, and the estimated distance of the
+mouth of Dease's River twenty miles.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenote">Thursday, 17th.</span>The provisions obtained from the Indians being
+distributed amongst the men, we commenced the march at five o'clock in
+the morning, and walked, until the usual breakfasting hour, over a piece
+of fine level ground. A range of sandstone hills rose on our left, and the
+river ran nearly parallel to our course on the right, but we walked at
+the distance of one or two miles from it, to avoid its windings and the
+swampy grounds on its borders. Pine-trees grow only in small detached
+clumps on its south bank; but the uneven valley, which we saw spreading
+for ten or twelve miles to the northward, was well wooded. The
+Needagazza Hills, which lie on the north shore of the Bear Lake, closed
+the view to the westward. Several columns of smoke were seen to the
+westward, and one to the southward; the latter, the Indians informed us,
+was made by It-chinnah. We breakfasted on the banks of a small stream,
+where the whortleberry bushes were loaded with fruit of a finer flavour
+than any we had previously <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_230" id="Page_230">[Pg 230]</a></span>met with. At noon we crossed a hill,
+on the summit of which Mr. Kendall had an observation, that placed it in
+66&deg; 58' of north latitude. Our route afterwards led us across
+several deep ravines close to the river, which there runs by the base of
+some lofty cliffs, of light red sandstone, and we pushed on in great
+spirits, and at a rapid pace, with the intention of reaching Bear Lake
+that evening; but the Indians complaining that they were unable to keep
+up with us, we halted at three <span class="smcap">p.m.</span> Several trees were then set on fire
+to apprize It-chinnah and his party of our approach; and, after supper,
+I went to the summit of a hill, and readily recognised the islands in
+Dease's Bay of Bear Lake, from their peculiar form and disposition.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenotel">Friday, 18th.</span>Setting out at three <span class="smcap">a.m.</span> on the 18th, the Indians
+conducted us over a rising ground, covered with white spruces, to a bay
+of the Great Bear Lake, about a mile from Dease's River. After
+breakfast, our stock of provisions being examined, it was found that we
+had two days' allowance remaining. A party was next sent to Dease's
+River to make a raft for setting the two nets, and they were also
+directed to look for traces of Beaulieu and his party. He had been
+ordered by Captain Franklin to leave the fort on the 6th of August, and
+to make the best of his way to the rendezvous, where he was to remain to
+the 20th of September. The length of his voyage, allowing for two or
+three days detention by adverse winds, was not expected to exceed seven
+or eight days, nor to be protracted, under any circumstances, beyond ten
+or twelve. We had, therefore, reason to suppose that he might have
+reached Dease's River by this time. He was fully aware of the
+inconvenience that we might experience, should we reach the appointed
+spot and find no provisions there; and to stimulate him to make as much
+haste as possible, I had promised him a fowling-piece, on condition that
+we found him waiting for us on our arrival. Huts were made to sleep in,
+and several trees set on fire to point out our position to the Indians
+in the neighbourhood.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenotel">Saturday, 19th.</span>The mossy ground near our encampment caught fire in the
+night, and the flames spread so rapidly that we were obliged on the
+morning of the 19th, to move to the banks of the river, where we made
+new huts. Owing to the loss of a hatchet in driving the stakes, only one
+net had been set the preceding evening, and in it we took eight carp.
+The raft being made of green wood was not sufficiently buoyant, and a
+new one was, therefore, constructed this day of dried timber. The carp
+afforded a breakfast for the party, and supper consumed all our deer's
+meat, together <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_231" id="Page_231">[Pg 231]</a></span>with a portion of the remainder of the pemmican.
+The young Indian went off in the afternoon in quest of It-chinnah's
+party. A strong easterly wind blowing all this day, was adverse to
+Beaulieu's advance.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenote">Sunday, 20th.</span>On Sunday, the 20th, prayers were read, and thanks returned
+to the Almighty for his gracious protection and the success which had
+attended our voyage. The nets yielding seventeen pike, carp, and white
+fish, provided an ample breakfast for the party, and before supper time
+the young Indian returned with two of his countrymen, bringing meat
+sufficient for three days consumption. Part of it was the flesh of the
+musk-ox, which was fat and juicy, but had a high musky flavour. We had
+seen none of these animals on our march from the Coppermine River,
+although we frequently noticed their foot marks. Frequent squalls during
+the day brought much rain, but the huts which we had made of pine
+branches kept us dry. We could not but consider ourselves fortunate in
+having had no rain in the journey overland, when there was not
+sufficient wood to afford us the shelter we now experienced.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenote">Monday, 21st.</span>On the 21st the nets yielded sixteen fish, which were
+enough for breakfast. Mr. Kendall crossed the river on a raft, and went
+to the top of a hill to the westward to look for Beaulieu; and, by way
+of keeping the men employed, I sent M'Leay and some of our best hunters
+in quest of deer, and set the carpenter and the remainder of the party
+to make oars. Our Indian friends left us to warn some more of their
+countrymen, of our situation, and five others arrived in the evening,
+bringing meat and large basketfuls of whortleberries. M'Leay and the
+other hunters returned without having seen any deer.</p>
+
+<p>To secure a stock of provision for our journey to the fort, in the event
+of any accident preventing the arrival of the boat, I resolved to send
+half the party on a distant excursion, and on the 22nd,<span class="sidenote">Tuesday, 22nd.</span>
+Gillet, M'Leay, M'Duffie, M'Lellan, and Ooligbuck, were despatched to
+hunt in the neighbourhood of Limestone Point, on the north shore of the
+lake, with orders not to extend their excursions beyond Haldanes River,
+which falls into the lake about sixty miles to the westward of Dease
+River. If they went on to Haldanes River, they were to set up a mark on
+Limestone Point, that I might know whether they had passed or not. They
+took with them a small supply of provision, and an Indian guide. In the
+evening two Indians came with more meat. They were desirous of being
+paid with ammunition, which they much need<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_232" id="Page_232">[Pg 232]</a></span>ed, but we had none to
+give them, and they cheerfully took our notes of hand for payment, on
+their arrival at the fort in the winter.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenotel">Wednesday, 23rd.</span>The 23d day of August having passed away like the four
+preceding ones, in anxious expectation of Beaulieu's arrival, I began to
+apprehend that some serious accident had happened to his boat, and to
+fear that we should be obliged to walk round the Lake to the Fort. The
+distance exceeding three hundred miles, we could not expect to
+accomplish it in less than three weeks, and not without much fatigue and
+suffering, for the men's stock of shoes was nearly exhausted, their
+clothing ill adapted for the frosty nights that occur in September, and
+deer do not frequent, at this season, much of the country through which
+our route lay. I naturally looked forward to such a march with
+uneasiness, yet, as the season was drawing to a close, I determined not
+to delay setting out beyond the 28th, when I intended to engage some
+Indians as guides, and to take with us as much dried meat as we could
+carry. The wind blew from the south-west this day, and we were much
+tormented by sand-flies.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenotel">Thursday, 24th.</span>On the evening of the 24th, as we were about to retire to
+bed, having given up all hopes of Beaulieu's arrival that day, we heard
+people talking in the direction of the mouth of the river, and soon
+afterwards saw a boat and several canoes. A musket being fired to show
+them our position, they steered for the encampment, and landed opposite
+to the huts. They proved to be Beaulieu's party, consisting of four
+Canadians, four Chipewyan hunters, and ten Dog-Ribs, which, with their
+wives and children, amounted to about thirty in all. We learnt from
+Beaulieu, that he had been sent off from the Fort by Mr. Dease, on the
+6th, with strict injunctions to proceed to the rendezvous with his
+utmost speed; but he pleaded the badness of the weather and the adverse
+winds as the cause of his delay. He had not seen the five men I sent off
+on the 22d, though he had noticed a fire in a bay near Limestone Point,
+which I had no doubt was made by them; I therefore embarked directly to
+rejoin them at that place, accompanied by Mr. Kendall and the remainder
+of our party, two of the Canadians, and an Indian named the Babillard;
+directing Beaulieu to stay at the huts until he heard from us again. We
+rowed all night, and soon after day-break reached the spot where the
+fire had been made, but found no marks to indicate which way our men had
+gone: neither was there any mark at Limestone Point; I therefore caused
+a large fire to be made at the latter place, and remained there the
+whole day.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_233" id="Page_233">[Pg 233]</a></span></p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenote">Saturday, 26th.</span>Our people not appearing on the 26th, I returned in the
+boat to Dease River, leaving Mr. Kendall and the Babillard at Limestone
+Point. Beaulieu had seen nothing of the absentees, and it was therefore
+evident that they had gone on to Haldane River, whither I resolved to
+proceed in search of them; but that they might not suffer from want of
+food, if by any chance we missed them, I directed Beaulieu's party to
+remain where they were, until I sent them permission to depart by two
+Canadians, whom I took with me on purpose in a small canoe. Mr. Dease
+had directed Beaulieu to go to M'Tavish Bay to hunt deer, and dry meat
+for the fort, as soon as we arrived; and as the boat was well adapted
+for carrying dried provision, I now exchanged it with his north canoe.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenote">Sunday, 27th.</span>We rejoined Mr. Kendall at Limestone Point at day-break on
+the morning of the 27th, and afterwards paddled along the coast until
+two <span class="smcap">p.m.</span>, when a strong head-wind obliged us to put ashore. As soon as
+we landed, I set out with the Babillard for Haldane River, carrying a
+small quantity of pemmican, lest the people should be in want of food;
+and after a walk, or rather a run, of five miles, I had the happiness of
+finding them all well, and with plenty of provisions, as they had killed
+six deer. Their Indian guide had taken them a little inland, by which
+they had missed Limestone Point; but they were very sorry it had so
+happened, when they learned the anxiety they had occasioned to Mr.
+Kendall and myself, by their not erecting the mark there as they had
+been directed to do. The wind moderating after sunset, Mr. Kendall
+joined us with the two canoes, so that the party was again happily
+reunited. <span class="sidenote">Monday, 28th.</span>On Monday the 28th, I sent back the small canoe
+with the Babillard and two Canadians, to join Beaulieu, and proceed with
+the rest of the party in the larger canoe to Fort Franklin, where we
+arrived on Friday, the 1st of September, and received a warm welcome
+from Mr. Dease, after an absence of seventy-one days, during which
+period we had travelled by land and water one thousand seven hundred and
+nine geographical, or nineteen hundred and eighty statute miles.</p>
+
+<p>Having now brought the Narrative of the proceedings of the Eastern
+Detachment to a conclusion, the pleasing duty remains of expressing my
+gratitude to the party for their cheerful and obedient conduct. Not a
+murmur of discontent was heard throughout the voyage, but every
+individual engaged with alacrity in the laborious tasks he was called
+upon to per<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_234" id="Page_234">[Pg 234]</a></span>form. Where all behaved with the greatest zeal, it
+would be invidious to particularize any; and I am happy in having it in
+my power to add, that since our return to England, Gillet, Fuller and
+Tysoe, who were in His Majesty's service previous to their being
+employed on the Expedition, have been rewarded by promotion. Our
+good-natured and faithful Esquimaux friend Ooligbuck, carried with him
+to his native lands the warmest wishes and esteem of the whole party.
+His attachment to us was never doubtful, even when we were surrounded by
+a tribe of his own nation.</p>
+
+<p>The general abilities and professional skill of my companion, Lieutenant
+Kendall, are duly appreciated in higher quarters, and can derive little
+lustre from any eulogium from me; but I cannot deny myself the
+gratification of recording my deep sense of the good fortune and
+happiness I experienced in being associated with a gentleman of such
+pleasing manners, and one upon whose friendly support and sound judgment
+I could with confidence rely, on occasions of difficulty and doubt
+inseparable from such a voyage.</p>
+
+<p class="center"><i>End of Dr. Richardson's Narrative of the Proceedings of the Eastern
+Detachment.</i><br /></p>
+
+<hr style='width: 10%' />
+
+<p class="center"><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_235" id="Page_235">[Pg 235]</a></span><i>TABLE of the distances travelled by both Branches of the
+Expedition, and of the extent of their Discoveries in 1827.</i></p> <hr
+style='width: 10%;' />
+
+<table width="80%"> <tr><td class="center">BY THE WESTERN PARTY.</td><td align="center"><i>Statute<br />Miles.</i></td></tr> <tr><td>From Fort Franklin, by Fort
+Norman, to Point Separation (river course)</td><td align="center">525</td></tr> <tr><td>Point Separation to
+Pillage Point, at the Mouth of the Mackenzie</td><td align="center">129</td></tr> <tr><td>Pillage Point to Return
+reef (sea-voyage out)</td><td align="center">374</td></tr> <tr><td>Return Reef, back to Fort Franklin, including
+Peel River</td><td align="center">1020</td></tr> <tr><td>Distance travelled by the Western Party in July, August,
+September, 1826.</td><td class="overline" align="center">2048</td></tr> </table>
+
+<hr style='width: 10%;' />
+
+<table width="80%"> <tr><td align="center">BY THE EASTERN PARTY.</td><td></td></tr> <tr><td>From Fort Franklin to Point Separation, along
+with the western party</td><td align="center">525</td></tr> <tr><td>Point Separation to Point Encounter (river
+course.)</td><td align="center">159</td></tr> <tr><td>Encounter to the Coppermine River (sea-voyage<a
+name="FNanchor_14_14" id="FNanchor_14_14"></a><a href="#Footnote_14_14" class="fnanchor">[14]</a>)</td><td align="center">863</td></tr> <tr><td>The mouth of the
+Coppermine, over land to Fort Franklin</td><td align="center">433</td></tr> <tr><td>Distance travelled by the
+Eastern Party in July and August, 1826</td><td class="overline" align="center">1980</td></tr> </table>
+
+<hr style='width: 10%;' />
+
+<table width="80%"> <tr><td align="center">EXTENT OF THE DISCOVERIES OF THE WESTERN PARTY IN 1826.</td><td></td></tr> <tr><td>From Point
+Separation to the mouth of the Mackenzie, by a western branch, not
+previously known</td><td align="center">129</td></tr> <tr><td>Pillage Point by the sea-coast to Point Beechey,
+which was seen from Return Reef</td><td align="center">391</td></tr> <tr><td>Peel River and a branch of the
+Mackenzie surveyed for the first time, on the return</td><td align="center">90</td></tr> <tr><td></td><td
+class="overline" align="center">610</td></tr> </table>
+
+<hr style='width: 10%;' />
+
+<table width="80%"> <tr><td align="center">EXTENT OF THE DISCOVERIES OF THE EASTERN PARTY IN 1826.</td><td></td></tr> <tr><td>From Sacred
+Island to Point Encounter, being a portion of the river lying to the
+eastward of Mackenzie's route</td><td align="center">37</td></tr> <tr><td>Point Encounter, along the coast to the
+Coppermine River</td><td align="center">863</td></tr> <tr><td>The Copper Mountains, overland to Bear Lake</td><td align="center">115</td></tr> <tr><td></td><td
+class="overline" align="center">1015</td></tr> </table>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_236" id="Page_236">[Pg 236]</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="center"><i>TABLE of Times of High Water, reduced to Full and Change, by E.N.
+Kendall, Lieutenant, R.N.</i></p>
+
+<table class="lines" width="100%"> <tr><td align="center" rowspan="2">Date.</td><td align="center" rowspan="2">Names and Places of<br />Observations.</td><td align="center" colspan="2">Geographic<br />Position.</td><td
+align="center" colspan="2">Times of High<br />Water.</td><td align="center" colspan="2">Winds.</td><td rowspan="2">General Remarks.</td></tr> <tr><td
+align="center">Lat. N.</td><td align="center">Lon. W.</td><td align="center">Observed.</td><td align="center">Reduced<br />to full &amp;<br />change.</td><td
+align="center">Direction.</td><td align="center">Force.</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">1825.</td><td></td><td
+align="center">&nbsp;&deg;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;'&nbsp;</td><td
+align="center">&nbsp;&deg;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;'&nbsp;</td><td>h. m.</td><td align="center">h. m.</td><td align="center"></td><td align="center"></td><td></td></tr> <tr><td align="center">Aug.
+16</td><td>Garry Island</td><td align="center">69 29</td><td align="center">135 41</td><td align="center">1 0 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span></td><td align="center">10 19</td><td align="center">N.E.</td><td align="center">6</td><td>No ice visible.</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">1826.</td><td></td><td align="center"></td><td align="center"></td><td align="center"></td><td align="center"></td><td align="center"></td><td align="center"></td><td></td></tr> <tr><td align="center">July
+9</td><td>Point Toker</td><td align="center">69 38</td><td align="center">132 18</td><td align="center">4 25 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span></td><td align="center">1 45</td><td align="center">N.E.b.E.</td><td align="center">5</td><td>Loose ice covering the sea.
+Rise of water 20 in.</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">10</td><td rowspan="2">Bay between<br />Points Toker<br />and Warren</td><td
+align="center" rowspan="2">69 43</td><td align="center" rowspan="2">131 58</td><td align="center">5 0 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span></td><td align="center">0 56</td><td align="center">East.</td><td align="center">8</td><td>Heavy pieces of
+ice.</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">12</td><td align="center">6 48 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span></td><td align="center">1 48</td><td align="center">-</td><td align="center">5</td><td>Little ice visible.</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">13</td><td>Atkinson Island</td><td align="center">69 55</td><td align="center">130
+43</td><td align="center">7 0 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span></td><td align="center">0 32</td><td align="center">S.E.</td><td align="center">1</td><td>Rise and fall 18 inches.</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">14</td><td>Browell Cove</td><td align="center">70 00</td><td align="center">130 20</td><td align="center">7 0
+<span class="smcap">p.m.</span></td><td align="center">1 12</td><td align="center">West.</td><td align="center">6</td><td>Very little rise and fall.</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">18</td><td>Point Sir<br />P. Maitland</td><td align="center">70 08</td><td align="center">127
+45</td><td align="center">3 15 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span></td><td align="center">3 47</td><td align="center">Calm.</td><td align="center">-</td><td rowspan="2">In the mouth of Harrowby Bay, round which the tide
+appeared to flow. Flood setting from the Eastward. Rise and fall
+14&frac12; inches.</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">19</td><td>Near Cape Bathurst</td><td align="center">70 33</td><td align="center">127 21</td><td align="center">1 30 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span></td><td align="center">1 28</td><td align="center">E.S.E.</td><td align="center">6</td></tr>
+<tr><td align="center">20</td><td>Point Fitton</td><td align="center">70 11</td><td align="center">126 14</td><td align="center">4 00 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span></td><td align="center">3 18</td><td align="center">N.W.</td><td align="center">6</td><td>Rise and fall 13 inches.</td></tr> </table>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_237" id="Page_237">[Pg 237]</a></span></p> <p class="center"><i>TABLE of Times of High Water, &amp;c.&mdash;Concluded.</i></p>
+
+<table class="lines" width="100%"> <tr><td align="center" rowspan="2">Date.</td><td align="center" rowspan="2">Names and Places of<br />Observations.</td><td align="center" colspan="2">Geographic<br />Position.</td><td
+align="center" colspan="2">Times of High<br />Water.</td><td align="center" colspan="2">Winds.</td><td rowspan="2">General Remarks.</td></tr> <tr><td
+align="center">Lat. N.</td><td align="center">Lon. W.</td><td align="center">Observed.</td><td align="center">Reduced<br />to full &amp;<br />change.</td><td
+align="center">Direction.</td><td align="center">Force.</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">1826.</td><td></td><td
+align="center">&nbsp;&deg;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;'&nbsp;</td><td
+align="center">&nbsp;&deg;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;'&nbsp;</td><td>h. m.</td><td align="center">h. m.</td><td align="center"></td><td align="center"></td><td></td></tr> <tr><td align="center">July 20</td><td>W.
+Horton River</td><td align="center">69 50</td><td align="center">125 55</td><td align="center">4 15 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span></td><td align="center">3 15</td><td align="center">W.N.W.</td><td align="center">9</td><td></td></tr> <tr><td align="center">21</td><td>-</td><td align="center">- -</td><td align="center">- -</td><td align="center">5 0 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span></td><td align="center">3 49</td><td align="center">-</td><td align="center">7</td><td></td></tr> <tr><td
+align="center">27</td><td>Cape Lyon</td><td align="center">69 46</td><td align="center">122 51</td><td align="center">11 50 <span class="smcap">a.m.</span></td><td align="center">6 33</td><td align="center">E.N.E.</td><td align="center">8</td><td>Stream of
+flood from the Eastward. Rise and fall 14 inches.</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">30</td><td>Three miles from
+Buchanan River</td><td align="center">69 24</td><td align="center">120 03</td><td align="center">5 0 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span></td><td align="center">8 20</td><td align="center">W.N.W.</td><td align="center">8</td><td>Ice close and heavy, Rise
+and fall 9 inches.</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">Aug. 1</td><td>Point Wise</td><td align="center">69 03</td><td align="center">119 00</td><td align="center">8 30 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span></td><td align="center">7 04</td><td align="center">West.</td><td align="center">4</td><td>Compact
+ice.</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">3</td><td>Stapylton Bay</td><td align="center">68 52</td><td align="center">116 03</td><td align="center">9 0 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span></td><td align="center">8 22</td><td align="center">East.</td><td align="center">2</td><td>In a bay filled with
+ice.</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">4</td><td>Between C. Hope<br />and C. Bexley</td><td align="center">68 57</td><td align="center">115 48</td><td align="center">3 15 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span></td><td align="center">8 25</td><td align="center">E.S.E.</td><td align="center">4</td><td>Ice to
+seaward.</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">5</td><td>Chantry Island</td><td align="center">68 45</td><td align="center">114 23</td><td align="center">8 30 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span></td><td align="center">7 22</td><td align="center">W.S.W.</td><td align="center">3</td><td>Loose masses of
+ice.</td></tr> <tr><td align="center">6</td><td>Seven miles from<br />C. Krusenstern</td><td align="center">68 32</td><td align="center">113 53</td><td align="center">9 00 <span class="smcap">p.m.</span></td><td align="center">7 13</td><td align="center">Variable.</td><td
+align="center">-</td><td>Flood from the S.E. Velocity 3 miles an hour.</td></tr> </table>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_13_13" id="Footnote_13_13"></a><a href="#FNanchor_13_13"><span class="label">[13]</span></a>Franklin's First Journey to the Polar Sea, p. 337.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_14_14" id="Footnote_14_14"></a><a href="#FNanchor_14_14"><span class="label">[14]</span></a>All the distances mentioned in the narrative of the proceedings of
+the eastern detachment, are geographical miles.</p></div> </div>
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" /> <p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_238" id="Page_238">[Pg 238]</a></span></p> <h4><a name="CAPTAIN_FRANKLINS_NARRATIVE_RESUMED" id="CAPTAIN_FRANKLINS_NARRATIVE_RESUMED"></a>CAPTAIN FRANKLIN'S NARRATIVE RESUMED.</h4>
+
+<h2>CHAPTER VI.</h2>
+
+<p><small>Brief Notices of the Second Winter at Bear Lake&mdash;Traditions of the
+Dog-Ribs&mdash;Leave Fort Franklin&mdash;Winter Journey to Fort
+Chipewyan&mdash;Remarks on the progress of improvement in the Fur
+Countries&mdash;Set out in Canoes on the Voyage Homeward&mdash;Join Dr.
+Richardson at Cumberland House&mdash;Mr. Drummond's
+Narrative&mdash;Arrival in Canada, at New York, and London.</small></p>
+
+
+<p><span class="sidenotel">Thursday, 21st</span><span class="smcap">During</span> our absence on the sea-coast, Mr. Dease had
+employed the Canadians in making such repairs about the buildings as to
+fit them for another winter's residence, but he had not been able to
+complete his plans before the arrival of Dr. Richardson's party, through
+whose assistance they were finished shortly after our return. The
+inconvenience arising from the unfinished state of the houses was a
+trifle, when compared to the disappointment we felt at the poverty of
+our store, which contained neither meat nor dried fish, and the party
+was living solely on the daily produce of the nets, which, at this time,
+was barely sufficient for its support. Notwithstanding the repeated
+promises which the Fort hunters and the Dog-Ribs in general had given
+us, of exerting themselves to collect provisions during the summer, we
+found that they had not supplied more than three deer since our
+departure. The only reason they assigned to Mr. Dease, on his
+remonstrating with them, was, that they had been withheld from hunting
+at any great distance from the Fort, by the fear of meeting the Copper
+Indians, who, they fancied, would be lying in wait to attack them. This
+excuse, however, had been so often alleged without a cause, that it was
+considered mere evasion, and we attributed their negligence to the
+indolence and apathy which mark the character of this tribe.</p>
+
+<p>I need not dilate upon the anxieties which we felt at the prospect of
+commencing the winter with such a scanty supply <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_239" id="Page_239">[Pg 239]</a></span>of food. We at
+once sent off five men, provided with nets and lines, to the fishery in
+M'Vicar's Bay, which had been so productive in the preceding year, in
+the hope that, besides gaining their own subsistence, they might store
+up some fish for us, which could be brought to the Fort when the lake
+was frozen. Our anxiety was, in some measure, relieved on the 28th of
+September, by the arrival of Beaulieu and some hunters, from the north
+side of Bear Lake, with a supply of dried meat. The term of Beaulieu's
+engagement being now expired, he was desirous of quitting our service;
+and though he was our best hunter, Mr. Dease advised me to comply with
+his request, as he had collected a number of useless followers, whom we
+must have fed during the short days. He accordingly took his departure,
+accompanied by seventeen persons, which was a very important relief to
+our daily issue of provision. I furnished them with ammunition from the
+store to enable them to hunt on their way to Marten Lake, where they
+intended to fish until the return of spring.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenote">October.</span>Calculating that the stores, which had been ordered from York
+Factory, must have arrived at Fort Norman, I despatched Mr. Kendall for
+them; and he returned on the 8th of October, with as much of them as his
+canoe would carry. The men were immediately furnished with warm
+clothing, of which the eastern party were in great need, having left
+every thing on quitting the sea-coast, except one suit each. We were
+rejoiced at the receipt of a large packet of letters from England, dated
+in the preceding February. They brought out the gratifying intelligence
+that my friend Lieutenant Back had been promoted, in December, 1825, to
+the rank of Commander. I likewise received a large packet of news papers
+from his Excellency the Earl of Dalhousie, Governor-in-Chief of Canada,
+to whom I take this opportunity of returning my best thanks for the warm
+interest he took in the welfare of the Expedition.</p>
+
+<p>I shall now briefly trace the advance of winter: the nights were frosty
+and the weather was unsettled and gloomy, from the time of our arrival
+to the close of September. Heavy rain fell on the 2nd of October, which
+on the following day was succeeded by hard frost and much snow. The snow
+which fell on the 8th remained on the ground for the rest of the season.
+The small lake was frozen on the 12th, from which day we dated the
+commencement of winter as we had done in the preceding year. There was a
+succession of gales, and almost constant snow from that time to the
+close of the month; and on the 30th the thermometer first descended
+below zero. The <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_240" id="Page_240">[Pg 240]</a></span>snow then was much deeper than at the close of
+November in the former year. The last of the migratory birds, which were
+a few hardy ducks, took their departure on the 18th of October.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenotel">November.</span>Stormy weather kept the Bear Lake open until the 16th of
+November, nine days later than the year before; and for some weeks we
+received no assistance from the nets, which again reduced our stock of
+meat to a small quantity. The same occupations, amusements, and
+exercise, were followed by the officers and men as in the former
+residence; and the occurrences were so similar, that particular mention
+of them is unnecessary. On the 25th of November we despatched some men
+with dogs and sledges to bring the remainder of the stores from Fort
+Norman. As it was my intention, as soon as the maps and drawings could
+be finished, to proceed on the ice to Fort Chipewyan, in order to secure
+provisions for the out-going of the party, and to reach England by the
+earliest conveyance, I requested of Mr. Brisbois to provide a cariole,
+sledges, and snow-shoes, for my journey, the birch of which they are
+made being plentiful in the neighbourhood of Fort Norman, and he having
+a better workman than any at our establishment. On the 28th Mackenzie
+arrived from M'Vicar's Bay, with an acceptable supply of fine
+white-fish. We learned from him that our party, as well as the Indians,
+were living in abundance; and that the latter had shown their wisdom
+this season, not only in taking up their quarters at that place, instead
+of remaining about the Fort, as they had done in the former year, but
+also in building themselves houses like those of our men, and thus
+having more comforts and better shelter than they had ever before
+enjoyed. The fishery opposite the Fort was now sufficiently productive
+for our wants, though the fish, from being out of season, disagreed so
+much with several of the men as to cause great debility, which was the
+more distressing to us, as we were unable to supply the invalids with
+meat on more than two days in the week. Contrary to what had happened
+last season, we did not receive meat this year from more than six or
+seven persons of either the Hare Indians or Dog-Rib tribes, after the
+ice set in; this happened, probably, from our being now unprovided with
+goods to exchange for their furs; though they had been expressly told in
+the spring, that we should have abundance of ammunition, tobacco, and
+other supplies, to purchase all the meat they would bring.</p>
+
+<p>By the return of our men from Fort Norman, we learned that one of our
+Dog-Rib hunters had murdered a man of his <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_241" id="Page_241">[Pg 241]</a></span>tribe, in the autumn,
+near the mouth of the Bear Lake River. The culprit being at the house,
+we inquired into the truth of the report, which was found correct; and
+he was in consequence instantly discharged from our service. His victim
+had been a man of notoriously loose habits, and in this instance had
+carried off the hunter's wife and child, while he was in pursuit of
+deer, at a great distance from the Fort. The husband pursued the guilty
+pair the moment he discovered their flight, and, on overtaking them,
+instantly shot the seducer; but the woman escaped a similar fate, by
+having the presence of mind to turn aside the muzzle of the gun when in
+the act of being discharged. She did not, however, escape punishment:
+her husband struck her senseless to the ground with the stock of his
+gun, and would have completed her destruction, but for the cries and
+intreaties of their only child. This transaction adds another to the
+melancholy list of about thirty murders which have been perpetrated on
+the borders of this lake since 1799, when the first trading post was
+established.</p>
+
+<p>The Dog-Rib Indians, being derived from the same stock with the
+Chipewyans, have many traditions and opinions in common with that
+people. I requested Mr. Dease to obtain answers from the old men of the
+tribe to a few queries which I drew up, and the following is the
+substance of the information he procured, which may be compared with the
+more extended statements by Hearne and Mackenzie, of the general belief
+of the Chipewyans.</p>
+
+<p>The <i>first man</i>, they said, was, according to the tradition of their
+fathers, named Chapewee. He found the world well stocked with food, and
+he created children, to whom he gave two kinds of fruit, the black and
+the white, but forbade them to eat the black. Having thus issued his
+commands for the guidance of his family, he took leave of them for a
+time, and made a long excursion for the purpose of conducting the sun to
+the world. During this, his first absence, his children were obedient,
+and ate only the white fruit, but they consumed it all; the consequence
+was, that when he a second time absented himself to bring the moon, and
+they longed for fruit, they forgot the orders of their father, and ate
+of the black, which was the only kind remaining. He was much displeased
+on his return, and told them that in future the earth would produce bad
+fruits, and that they would be tormented by sickness and
+death&mdash;penalties which have attached to his descendants to the
+present day. Chapewee himself lived so long that his throat was worn
+out, and he could no longer enjoy life; but he <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_242" id="Page_242">[Pg 242]</a></span>was unable to
+die, until, at his own request, one of his people drove a beaver-tooth
+into his head.</p>
+
+<p>The same, or another Chapewee (for there is some uncertainty on this
+head,) lived with his family on a strait between two seas. Having there
+constructed a weir to catch fish, such a quantity were taken, that the
+strait was choked up, and the water rose and overflowed the earth.
+Chapewee embarked with his family in a canoe, taking with them all
+manner of birds and beasts. The waters covered the earth for many days,
+but, at length, Chapewee said, we cannot live always thus, we must find
+land again, and he accordingly sent a beaver to search for it. The
+beaver was drowned, and his carcase was seen floating on the water; on
+which Chapewee despatched a musk-rat on the same errand. The second
+messenger was long absent, and when he did return was near dying with
+fatigue, but he had a little earth in his paws. The sight of the earth
+rejoiced Chapewee, but his first care was about the safety of his
+diligent servant, the rat, which he rubbed gently with his hands, and
+cherished in his bosom, until it revived. He next took up the earth, and
+mouldering it with his fingers, placed it on the water, where it
+increased by degrees until it formed an island in the ocean. A wolf was
+the first animal Chapewee placed on the infant earth, but the weight
+proving too great, it began to sink on one side, and was in danger of
+turning over. To prevent this accident the wolf was directed to move
+round the island, which he did for a whole year, and in that time the
+earth increased so much in size, that all on board the canoe were able
+to disembark on it. Chapewee, on landing, stuck up a piece of wood,
+which became a fir-tree, and grew with amazing rapidity, until its top
+reached the skies. A squirrel ran up this tree, and was pursued by
+Chapewee, who endeavoured to knock it down, but could not overtake it.
+He continued the chase, however, until he reached the stars, where he
+found a fine plain, and a beaten road. In this road he set a snare made
+of his sister's hair, and then returned to the earth. The sun appeared
+as usual in the heavens in the morning, but at noon it was caught by the
+snare which Chapewee had set for the squirrel, and the sky was instantly
+darkened. Chapewee's family on this said to him, you must have done
+something wrong when you were aloft, for we no longer enjoy the light of
+day; "I have," replied he, "but it was unintentionally." Chapewee then
+endeavoured to repair the fault he had committed, and sent a number of
+animals up the tree to release the sun, by cutting the snare, but the
+intense heat of that luminary reduced them <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_243" id="Page_243">[Pg 243]</a></span>all to ashes. The
+efforts of the more active animals being thus frustrated, a ground mole,
+though such a grovelling and awkward beast, succeeded by burrowing under
+the road in the sky, until it reached and cut asunder the snare which
+bound the sun. It lost its eyes, however, the instant it thrust its head
+into the light, and its nose and teeth have ever since been brown, as if
+burnt. Chapewee's island, during these transactions, increased to the
+present size of the American Continent; and he traced the course of the
+rivers, and scraped out the lakes by drawing his fingers through the
+earth. He next allotted to the quadrupeds, birds, and fishes, their
+different stations, and endowing them with certain capacities, he told
+them that they were in future to provide for their own safety, because
+man would destroy them whenever he found their tracks; but to console
+them, he said, that when they died they should be like a seed of grass,
+which, when thrown into the water, springs again into life. The animals
+objected to this arrangement, and said, let us when we die be as a stone
+which, when thrown into a lake, disappears forever from the sight of
+man. Chapewee's family complained of the penalty of death entailed upon
+them for eating the black fruit, on which he granted that such of them
+as dreamed certain dreams should be men of medicine, capable of curing
+diseases and of prolonging life. In order to preserve this virtue, they
+were not to tell their dreams until a certain period had elapsed. To
+acquire the power of foretelling events, they were to take an ant alive,
+and insert it under the skin of the palm of the hand, without letting
+any one know what they had done.</p>
+
+<p>For a long time Chapewee's descendants were united as one family, but at
+length some young men being accidentally killed in a game, a quarrel
+ensued, and a general dispersion of mankind took place. One Indian fixed
+his residence on the borders of the lake, taking with him a dog big with
+young. The pups in due time were littered, and the Indian, when he went
+out to fish, carefully tied them up to prevent their straying. Several
+times as he approached his tent, he heard a noise of children talking
+and playing; but on entering it he only perceived the pups tied up as
+usual. His curiosity being excited by the noises he had heard, he
+determined to watch, and one day pretending to go out and fish,
+according to custom, he concealed himself in a convenient place. In a
+short time he again heard voices, and rushing suddenly into the tent,
+beheld some beautiful children sporting and laughing, with the dog-skins
+lying by their side. He threw the skins into the fire, and the children,
+retaining their proper forms, grew up, and were the ancestors of the
+Dog-Rib nation.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_244" id="Page_244">[Pg 244]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>On Mr. Dease questioning some of the elderly men as to their knowledge
+of a supreme Being, they replied&mdash;"We believe that there is a Great
+Spirit, who created every thing, both us and the world for our use. We
+suppose that he dwells in the lands from whence the white people come,
+that he is kind to the inhabitants of those lands, and that there are
+people there who never die: the winds that blow from that quarter
+(south) are always warm. He does not know the wretched state of our
+island, nor the pitiful condition in which we are."</p>
+
+<p>To the question, whom do your medicine men address when they conjure?
+They answered,&mdash;"We do not think that they speak to the master of
+life, for if they did, we should fare better than we do, and should not
+die. He does not inhabit our lands."</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenotel">December.</span>On the evening of the 1st of December a brilliant comet
+appeared in the western quarter, which had been indistinctly seen the
+two preceding nights. A line drawn through alpha and eta Urs&aelig;
+Majoris led to its position; it also formed a trapezium with alpha
+Aquil&aelig; and alpha Lyr&aelig; and alpha Coron&aelig; Borealis. This was
+the last night of its being visible. The temperature had been unusually
+high for several days, about this time +18 above zero; and, with the
+exception of the night of the 1st, the atmosphere gloomy; and we amused
+ourselves with conjecturing, whether this extraordinary warmth, and the
+density of the clouds, could in any way be ascribed to the comet.</p>
+
+<p>At Christmas we were favoured by a visit from Mr. Brisbois, to whom we
+felt much obliged for the care he had taken of our sea-stores, beside
+many personal civilities. The visit of a stranger is always heartily
+welcomed in such a desolate region, and to provide for the entertainment
+of the party during Mr. Brisbois's stay, Captain Back and Mr. Kendall
+displayed their ingenuity in cutting out several pasteboard figures, to
+represent behind an illuminated screen the characters of a comic piece,
+which Captain Back had written for the occasion. The exhibition was
+entirely new to most of the party, and its execution afforded such
+general amusement, that it was repeated on three nights at the request
+of the men. <span class="sidenotel">January.</span>The New Year was celebrated by a dance, which closed
+our festivities; and on Mr. Brisbois quitting us the following day, we
+resumed our ordinary occupations. Two Hare Indians arrived at the fort,
+whom Mr. Kendall recognised as the persons who had brought provisions to
+Dr. Richardson's party, as soon as they had heard of his having reached
+the Bear Lake <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_245" id="Page_245">[Pg 245]</a></span>Portage; and we had much pleasure in rewarding
+their promptitude on that occasion, by a substantial present and a
+silver medal. They were particularly pleased at the medals, and assured
+us that they should be proud to show them to the rest of their tribe as
+tokens of our approbation.</p>
+
+<p>On the evening of the 4th of January, the temperature being -52.2&deg;,
+Mr. Kendall froze some mercury in the mould of a pistol bullet, and
+fired it against a door at the distance of six paces. A small portion of
+the mercury penetrated to the depth of one eighth of an inch, but the
+remainder only just lodged in the wood. Much snow fell in the second
+week of January; and on the 12th, we ascertained that its average depth
+was two feet in the sheltered parts of the woods. The weather became
+mild after the 20th; and on the 22nd, the sun's rays were so powerful as
+to raise a spirit thermometer with a blackened bulb, to +30.5&deg;, when
+the temperature of the air was -3.5&deg;. A very brilliant and clearly
+defined parhelion was visible at the time, and there were only a few
+light clouds. The wind was east, and as usual, with the wind from that
+quarter when the sky is clear, the distant land appeared much distorted
+by refraction.</p>
+
+<p>The documents which had been preparing being now nearly finished, we
+sent for the cariole, &amp;c. from Fort Norman. When the men came back,
+they brought the information, that, according to the report of the
+Indians, the ice was so rough on the Mackenzie above Fort Norman, that
+travelling would be extremely difficult. <span class="sidenote">18th.</span>I therefore abandoned the
+intention of proceeding by that way, and resolved on passing through the
+woods to Fort Simpson, as soon as guides could be procured. The delay
+afforded me the opportunity of registering the lowest temperature we had
+witnessed in this country. At a quarter after eight in the morning of
+the 7th of February, the <span class="sidenote"> February.</span>thermometer descended to -58&deg;; it
+had been -57.5&deg; degrees, and 57.3&deg; thrice in the course of this
+and the preceding day&mdash;between the 5th and 8th, its general state
+was from -48&deg; to -52&deg;, though it occasionally rose to -43&deg;.</p>
+
+<p>At Fort Enterprise, during a similar degree of cold, the atmosphere had
+been calm: but here we had a light wind, which sometimes approached to a
+fresh breeze. The sky was cloudless the whole time. Some of our men, as
+well as the Indians, were travelling on the lake during this cold
+without experiencing any greater inconvenience than having their faces
+frost bitten. The dogs, however, suffered severely, three being
+completely lamed by the frost, and all of them becoming <span class='pagenum'><a
+name="Page_246" id="Page_246">[Pg 246]</a></span>much thinner.<a
+name="FNanchor_15_15" id="FNanchor_15_15"></a><a href="#Footnote_15_15" class="fnanchor">[15]</a> These cold days were
+followed by windy though mild weather, which brought the rein-deer
+nearer to the Establishment; and our hunters killed seven within a day's
+march. Their reappearance in our neighbourhood was very gratifying to
+the whole party, as we were heartily tired of a fish-diet, and I felt an
+especial pleasure at being able to quit the place without the least
+apprehension of the party being in want of provision.</p>
+
+<p>The following is a list of the amount of provision we obtained at Fort
+Franklin, from the time of Mr. Dease's arrival to the close of January
+1827; independent of the supplies of pemmican, &amp;c. for the sea
+voyage, which were procured from the Hudson's Bay Company.</p>
+
+<p>Small Fish, Bear Lake Herring, 79,440.&mdash;Trout, 3,475.&mdash;Pounds
+of fresh meat, 24,053.&mdash;Dried ribs of Rein Deer,
+2,370.&mdash;Pounds of pounded deer's meat, 1,744.&mdash;Pounds of fat
+or tallow, 2,929.&mdash;Rein-deer tongues, 1,849.&mdash;Beaver,
+12.&mdash;Partridges, 386.&mdash;Hares, 52.</p>
+
+<p>On the 16th of February, Augustus and two Dog-Ribs were sent forward to
+be at the track in the line of my intended route. My departure being
+fixed for the 20th, the charts, drawings, journals, and provisions were
+distributed between the cariole and three sledges of which my train
+consisted; and as the dogs were in too weak a condition for drawing
+heavy burdens, two Indians were engaged, to accompany us four days, for
+the purpose of carrying part of the pemmican. I afterwards delivered
+written instructions to Captain Back, directing him to proceed to York
+Factory as soon as the ice should break, and from thence, by the
+Hudson's Bay ship, to England, taking with him the British party, but to
+send the Canadians to Montreal. Augustus and Ooligbuck were to be
+forwarded to Churchill, that they might rejoin their relatives.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenotel">Tuesday, 20th.</span>At ten <span class="smcap">a.m.</span>, I quitted the Fort, accompanied by five of
+our men and the two Indians, the latter dragging each sixty pounds of
+pemmican on their sledges. Captain Back, the officers, and men assembled
+to give us a farewell salute of three hearty cheers, which served to
+renew my regret at leaving a society whose members had endeared
+themselves to me by unremitting attention to their duties, and the
+greatest personal kindness. We crossed the lake expeditiously, favoured
+by a north-west gale, and then continued our <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_247" id="Page_247">[Pg 247]</a></span>course to the
+southward until sunset. The mode of bivouacking in the winter, as well
+as the course of proceeding, having been so fully described in my former
+Narrative, and by several other travellers in this country, I need not
+repeat them. We usually set forward at the first appearance of light and
+marched until sunset, halting an hour to breakfast. The rate of walking
+depended on the depth of snow; where the track was good, we made about
+two miles in the hour.</p>
+
+<p>On the evening of the second day, we were deserted by our Indian
+companions, who, as we afterwards learned, took advantage of the rest of
+the party being some distance in advance of them, to turn back to the
+nearest wood, and there deposit the pemmican on a stage which they
+constructed by the road side. Supposing that they had only halted in
+consequence of the gale that was then blowing, we did not send to look
+after them before the following morning, when every trace of their path
+was covered with the snow drift; and as I considered we might possibly
+spend some time in a fruitless search, I thought the wisest course was
+to put the party and dogs on a shorter allowance than usual, and proceed
+on our journey. Their conduct affords another instance of the little
+dependence that ought to be placed on the Indians of this country, when
+more than ordinary exertion is required.</p>
+
+<p>We travelled fifty miles through a swampy level country, thinly wooded,
+with a few ridges of hills visible in the distance, east and west of our
+course. The country was uneven and better wooded for the succeeding
+thirty miles. We next crossed a steep range of hills elevated about
+eight hundred feet above the surrounding land, and then passing over a
+succession of lower hills and vallies, descended to the Mackenzie, and
+following that river for thirty miles, came to Fort Simpson<span class="sidenote">March.</span> on the
+8th of March; the whole distance being two hundred and twenty miles, and
+for the last one hundred and seventy miles, through a well wooded
+country. We crossed several rivers which flow into the Mackenzie, and
+some considerable lakes which are laid down in the map. But one solitary
+family of Indians were seen on the journey, and these were stationed
+within a day's march of Fort Simpson. They had inclosed large tracts of
+ground with hedges, in which they set snares for hares, and, being very
+successful, were living in abundance, and were well clothed, their dress
+consisting principally of hare skins.</p>
+
+<p>As soon as Mr. Smith, the chief Factor of the District, was informed of
+our approach, and that we were short of provisions, in consequence of
+the Indians having made off with the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_248" id="Page_248">[Pg 248]</a></span>pemmican, he kindly sent a
+supply of fresh meat for our use; and on our arrival at the Fort, he
+gave us the most friendly reception. Our Indian guide had never been
+nearer to Fort Simpson by land, than the Lake of the Elevated Land, and
+only once by the course of the Mackenzie, many years before the Fort was
+built; and yet if he had not been led aside by falling upon the track
+leading to the Indians above-mentioned, he would have come upon the
+Mackenzie, directly opposite Fort Simpson. His course he told me was
+governed by his recollection of a particular mountain, which he
+remembered to have noticed from the Mackenzie, and which we now passed
+within two miles, but on his former visit, he did not approach it nearer
+than eighteen miles. Its outline must have appeared so different when
+seen from these distances, that one can hardly imagine a less observant
+eye than that of an Indian recognising any of its distinguishing points,
+especially as it was not a detached mountain, but formed one of a line
+of hills of considerable extent. Our dogs being completely tired, I
+remained a week to recruit their strength. During this interval I had
+the opportunity of examining all the accounts which the Hudson's Bay
+Company had to present for supplies to the Expedition from this
+department, and of making provision for the outward journey of Captain
+Back and his party. Arrangements were also made, that the Hudson's Bay
+Company should take, at a valuation, the spare stores of the Expedition
+on its quitting Bear Lake. I accompanied Mr. Smith to a part of the
+River of the Mountains, where a portion of the bank, several acres in
+extent, had been torn off, and thrown a considerable distance into the
+channel of the river. The disruption took place in the preceding
+November, some days after the water had been frozen, and when there was
+no apparent cause for its separation. When the water is flowing over the
+banks, and the earth is in consequence loosened, the falling of the bank
+is not unfrequent in the Mackenzie, though on a much smaller scale than
+in this instance. I can only account for the separation of the mass
+after the ground had been frozen, by the supposition, that there was
+some spring of warm water in its rear, which loosened the soil, and that
+the pressure of the ice contributed, with the weight of snow at the top,
+to its overthrow.</p>
+
+<p>At the time of my visit, an Indian woman committed suicide, by hanging
+herself, in a fit of jealousy, at an encampment a short distance from
+the Fort. I had thought that suicide was extremely rare among the
+Northern Indians; but I subsequently learned that it was not so uncommon
+as I had imagined, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_249" id="Page_249">[Pg 249]</a></span>and I was informed of two instances that
+occurred in the year of 1826. The weather was remarkably mild; during my
+stay icicles were formed on the southern front of the house, and there
+were many other indications of an early spring.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenote">Thursday, 15th.</span>On the afternoon of the 15th of March I took leave of Mr.
+Smith, who kindly furnished me with his best dog for my cariole, one of
+mine having proved unfit for the journey to Slave Lake; we were also
+indebted to him for the skin of a mountain goat and a lynx; and to Mr.
+M'Pherson for the skins of several smaller animals and birds, from the
+neighbourhood of the Rocky Mountains, which they added to our
+collection. Having sent back one of my men with the Indian guides to
+Bear Lake, we had now only two sledges; but as we were unable to carry
+the whole of our lading, Mr. Smith had the goodness to send a sledge and
+one of his men to convey a part of the provisions for four days. At the
+distance of eight miles we met two men with a cariole and sledge, which
+Mr. M'Vicar had sent for my use from Slave Lake; but being well provided
+I did not require the services of this party, though we derived great
+benefit from their track as we proceeded, and also from some deposits of
+provision which they had made on the route.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenote">Wednesday, 21st.</span>Following the course of the Mackenzie, we arrived, on
+the 21st, at the expansion of the river called the Little Lake, and
+there had the pleasure of meeting two Canadians, on their way to Bear
+Lake, with a packet of letters from England. We hastened towards the
+shore and encamped; and though the night was piercingly cold, I spent
+the greatest part of it most agreeably, scanning the contents of the box
+by the unsteady light of a blazing fire. After breakfast next morning I
+despatched the packet to its destination, under the charge of M'Leay,
+who had accompanied me from Bear Lake, and retained one of the Canadians
+in his stead. We arrived at Fort Resolution, on the Slave Lake to
+breakfast, on the 26th, and I once more had the happiness of receiving
+the friendly attentions of Mr. M'Vicar, to whom it will be remembered by
+the readers of my last Narrative, that the members of that Expedition
+were so greatly indebted for his tender care of them after their
+sufferings. Dr. Richardson had quitted this place in the preceding
+December, for the purpose of joining Mr. Drummond, the Assistant
+Botanist in the Saskatchawan River, and that he might have the benefit
+of an earlier spring than in this quarter to collect plants. The
+prospect here being completely wintry, I made another halt of eight
+days, being desirous of remaining as long as I could, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_250" id="Page_250">[Pg 250]</a></span>without
+incurring the risk of exposure to the thaw on my way to Fort Chipewyan.</p>
+
+<p>I was glad to find that the Chipewyans and Copper Indians were at length
+employing dogs to drag their sledges. A superstitious belief that their
+own origin was derived from those animals, had for several years past
+thrown this laborious and degrading occupation on the poor women, who,
+by the change, experienced a most happy relief. It was indeed, highly
+gratifying to observe that these Indians no longer beat their wives in
+the cruel manner to which they had been formerly accustomed; and that,
+in the comparative tenderness with which they now treat the sex, they
+have made the first and greatest step to all moral and general
+improvement.</p>
+
+<p>It will be recollected that on receiving, at Bear Lake, a report of the
+traces of white people having been seen near the sea-coast, I had
+requested that Mr. M'Vicar would collect a party of Indians, and send
+them to the spot to convey a letter from me to Captain Parry. Mr.
+M'Vicar now informed me that some Indians had left his Fort for the
+purpose, under the charge of a Canadian, named Joseph St. Pierre, who
+volunteered for the occasion, but the Indians continued with him only
+for a short distance beyond the east end of Slave Lake, when they became
+weary of their journey, and dropping off one by one, left him alone. St.
+Pierre, however, having determined to deliver the letter to Captain
+Parry, if possible, persevered for many days in a fruitless search for
+the river on the banks of which the marks were reported to have been
+seen; even after he had sustained the loss of all his clothes (except
+those on his person,) by the grass catching fire when he was asleep; but
+at length, being short of food, his shoes worn out, and almost without
+covering for his feet, he was compelled to return to the Fort. He was
+not at the house at the time of my visit, but I left an order with Mr.
+M'Vicar, that he might be rewarded for his zeal and exertions, and
+handsomely remunerated for his loss.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenotel">April.</span>The subsequent journey to the Athabasca Lake occupied eight days;
+we arrived at Fort Chipewyan in the afternoon of the 12th of April. I
+found Mr. Stewart, the Chief Factor of the Department, surrounded by a
+large body of Indians, who quitted the Fort as soon as they had
+exchanged their furs, in order to seek their living by fishing and
+hunting wild fowl, instead of passing four or five weeks in indolence
+about the Establishment, as had been their custom at this season for
+many preceding years. This beneficial change of conduct, on their part,
+is owing to the Hudson's Bay Company <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_251" id="Page_251">[Pg 251]</a></span>having ceased to bring
+spirits into the northern department; and to some other judicious
+regulations which the Directors have made respecting the trade with the
+natives. The plans now adopted offer supplies of clothes, and of every
+necessary, to those Indians who choose to be active in the collection of
+furs; and it was pleasing to learn, that the natives in this quarter had
+shown their acquiescence in these measures by increased exertion during
+the preceding winter. Some other very wholesome regulations have been
+introduced by the Company; amongst others, the Sabbath is ordered to be
+properly observed, and Divine Service to be read at every post. They
+have also directed, where the soil will allow, a portion of ground to be
+cultivated for the growth of culinary vegetables at each of their
+establishments, and I witnessed the good effects of this order, even at
+this advanced post, where the ground is rocky; the tables of the
+officers being supplied daily, and those of the men frequently, with
+potatoes and barley. Such luxuries were very rarely found beyond
+Cumberland House, on the route that we travelled during my former
+journey.</p>
+
+<p>Feeling a deep interest in the welfare of this country, in which I have
+spent a large portion of the last seven years, I have much pleasure in
+recording these improvements; and in stating my conviction, that the
+benevolent wishes of the Directors, respecting the inhabitants of their
+territories, will be followed up with corresponding energy by the
+resident Governor, the chief factors, and the traders of the Company.</p>
+
+<p>I mentioned in my former Narrative, that the Northern Indians had
+cherished a belief for some years, that a great change was about to take
+place in the natural order of things, and that among other advantages
+arising from it, their own condition of life was to be materially
+bettered. This story, I was now informed by Mr. Stewart, originated with
+a woman, whose history appears to me deserving of a short notice. While
+living at the N.W. Company's Post, on the Columbia River, as the wife of
+one of the Canadian servants, she formed a sudden resolution of becoming
+a warrior; and throwing aside her female dress, she clothed herself in a
+suitable manner. Having procured a gun, a bow and arrows, and a horse,
+she sallied forth to join a party of her countrymen then going to war;
+and, in her first essay, displayed so much courage as to attract general
+regard, which was so much heightened by her subsequent feats of bravery,
+that many young men put themselves under her command. Their example was
+soon generally followed, and, at length she became the principal leader
+of the tribe, under <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_252" id="Page_252">[Pg 252]</a></span>the designation of the "Manlike Woman."
+Being young, and of a delicate frame, her followers attributed her
+exploits to the possession of supernatural power, and, therefore,
+received whatever she said with implicit faith. To maintain her
+influence during peace, the lady thought proper to invent the
+above-mentioned prediction, which was quickly spread through the whole
+northern district. At a later period of her life, our heroine undertook
+to convey a packet of importance from the Company's Post on the Columbia
+to that in New Caledonia, through a tract of country which had not, at
+that time, been passed by the traders, and which was known to be
+infested by several hostile tribes. She chose for her companion another
+woman, whom she passed off as her wife. They were attacked by a party of
+Indians, and though the Manlike Woman received a wound in the breast,
+she accomplished her object, and returned to the Columbia with answers
+to the letters. When last seen by the traders, she had collected
+volunteers for another war excursion, in which she received a mortal
+wound. The faith of the Indians was shaken by her death, and soon
+afterwards the whole of the story she had invented fell into discredit.</p>
+
+
+<p>In the Athabasca department, which includes Slave Lake and Peace River,
+as well as in the more southern districts, the autumn of 1826, and the
+following winter, were unusually mild. Near the Saskatchawan River,
+there was so little snow before the middle of January, that the sledges
+could not be used; but at Bear Lake, and throughout the Mackenzie, the
+weather was severe during the same periods, and the snow came early;
+hence it would appear, that even in this climate the meteorological
+register kept at any one place, affords no index from whence we can
+judge of the season at another. In my journey from Slave Lake to the
+Athabasca we had a snow-storm for three days, which we found did not
+extend beyond sixty miles; and on our arrival at Fort Chipewyan, we
+learned there had not been a single shower during these days. The only
+coinciding circumstance, at the different stations this year, was the
+prevalence of north-east winds.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_253" id="Page_253">[Pg 253]</a></span><span class="sidenotel">Sunday, 15th.</span>We welcomed the appearance of two of the
+large-sized swans on the 15th April, as the harbingers of spring; the
+geese followed on the 20th; the robins came on the 7th May; the house
+martins appeared on the 12th, and in the course of a week were busily
+employed repairing their nests; and the barn or forked-tail swallows
+arrived on the 20th; and on the same day, the small-sized swans were
+seen, which the traders consider the latest of the migratory birds.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenote">May, 20th.</span>The only symptoms of reviving vegetation at this period, were
+a few anemones in flower, and the bursting of some catkins of willows;
+but we learned by an arrival of a boat from the Peace River that, even
+so early as the 14th, the trees were in full foliage at not more than a
+day's journey from the lake. The barley was sown at Fort Chipewyan on
+the 15th May, potatoes on the 21st, and the garden seeds on the 22d,
+which were expected to be ready for use by the close of the following
+September. As an experiment, whether the barley would yield a better
+crop by remaining in the ground through the winter, some had been sown
+in the preceding autumn, but only a few of the plants appeared at the
+close of this month, and the crop did not promise favourably.</p>
+
+<p>Some canoes having arrived on the 26th of May with the furs from Slave
+Lake, the last of the Company's brigade of boats was despatched to York
+Factory. Augustus, who was desirous of seeing Dr. Richardson again
+before his departure from the country, and two other men of the
+Expedition, embarked in them. I embarked on the 31st May in the
+Company's light canoe with Mr. Stewart and Mr. M'Vicar, having
+previously made the necessary arrangements for the passage of Captain
+Back and his party. We reached Cumberland House on the 18th June, where
+I had the happiness of meeting Dr. Richardson after a separation of
+eleven months. I learned from him that during our absence in the north,
+Mr. Drummond the Assistant Botanist had been indefatigable in collecting
+specimens of Natural History, having been sent for that purpose to the
+Rocky Mountains at the head of the Athabasca River; in the course of
+which service, he had been exposed to very great privations. To his
+perseverance and industry, science is indebted for the knowledge of
+several new and many rare quadrupeds, birds, and plants. That the reader
+may form some notion of the labour he sustained, and the zeal he
+displayed in making his very valuable and highly interesting
+collections, and to point out to the naturalist, the districts from
+whence they were brought, I subjoin his brief account of his journey in
+his own words.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenote">1825, June.</span>"I remained at Cumberland House about six weeks after the
+departure of Captain Back and Mr. Kendall, in June, 1825, when the
+Company's boats with the brigade of traders for the Columbia, arriving
+from York Factory, I accompanied them up the Saskatchawan River two
+hundred and sixty miles to Carlton House. The unsettled state of the
+Indians in that neighbourhood rendering excursions<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_254" id="Page_254">[Pg 254]</a></span> over the
+plains very unsafe, I determined on proceeding with the brigade as far
+as the Rocky Mountains. We left Carlton House on the 1st of September,
+and reached Edmonton, which is about four hundred miles distant on the
+20th of the same month. Sandy plains extend without material alteration
+the whole way, and there is, consequently, little variety in the
+vegetation; indeed, I did not find a single plant that I had not seen
+within ten miles of Carlton House, although I had an opportunity of
+examining the country carefully, having performed the greater part of
+the journey on foot. After a halt of two days at Edmonton, we continued
+our route one hundred miles farther to Fort Assinaboyn on the Red Deer
+River, one of the branches of the Athapescow. This part of the journey
+was performed with horses through a swampy and thickly wooded country,
+and the path was so bad, that it was necessary to reduce the luggage as
+much as possible. I therefore took with me only one bale of paper for
+drying plants, a few shirts, and a blanket; Mr. M'Millan, one of the
+Company's chief traders, who had charge of the brigade, kindly
+undertaking to forward the rest of my baggage in the ensuing spring.
+<span class="sidenotel"> October, 2d.</span>We left Fort Assinaboyn to proceed up the Red Deer River to
+the Mountains, on the 2d of October; but the Canoe appointed for this
+service being very much lumbered, it was necessary that some of the
+party should travel by land, and of that number, I volunteered to be
+one. A heavy fall of snow, on the third day after setting out, rendered
+the march very fatiguing, and the country being thickly wooded and very
+swampy, our horses were rendered useless before we had travelled half
+the distance."</p>
+
+<p>"We reached the mountains on the 14th, and I continued to accompany the
+brigade, for fifty miles of the Portage-road, to the Columbia, when we
+met a hunter whom Mr. M'Millan hired to supply me with food during the
+winter. The same gentleman having furnished me with horses and a man to
+take care of them, I set out with the hunter and his family towards the
+Smoking River, one of the eastern branches of the Peace River, on which
+we intended to winter. My guide, however, loitered so much on the way,
+that the snow became too deep to admit of our proceeding to our
+destination, and we were under the necessity of leaving the Mountains
+altogether, and taking up our winter-quarters about the end of <span
+class="sidenotel">December.</span>December, on the Baptiste, a stream which
+falls into the Red Deer River. During the journey, I collected a few
+specimens of the birds that pass the winter <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_255" id="Page_255">[Pg 255]</a></span>in the country, and
+which belong principally to the genera <i>tetrao</i> and <i>strix</i>. I also
+obtained a few mosses, and on Christmas day, I had the pleasure of
+finding a very minute <i>gymnostomum</i>, hitherto undescribed."</p>
+
+<p>"In the winter, I felt the inconvenience of the want of my tent, the
+only shelter I had from the inclemency of the weather being a hut built
+of the branches of trees. Soon after reaching our wintering ground,
+provisions became very scarce, and the hunter and his family went off in
+quest of animals, taking with them the man who had charge of my horses
+to bring me a supply as soon as they could procure it. I remained alone
+for the rest of the winter, except when my man occasionally visited me
+with meat; and I found the time hang very heavy, as I had no books, and
+nothing could be done in the way of collecting specimens of Natural
+History. I took however, a walk every day in the woods to give me some
+practice in the use of snow shoes. The winter was very severe, and much
+snow fell until the end of March, when it averaged six feet in depth; in
+consequence of this, I lost one of my horses, and the two remaining ones
+became exceedingly poor. The hunter was still more unfortunate, ten of
+his young colts having died."</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenote">April 1826.</span>"In the beginning of April, 1826, setting out for the
+Columbia Portage road, I reached it after a fatiguing march on the sixth
+day, and two days afterwards, had the pleasure of meeting Mr. M'Millan,
+who brought me letters from Dr. Richardson, informing me of the welfare
+of the Expedition; and he also placed me in comparatively comfortable
+circumstances by bringing my tent, a little tea and sugar, and some more
+paper. I remained on the Portage <span class="sidenote">May, 6th.</span>preparing specimens of birds
+until the 6th of May, when the brigade from the Columbia arrived. On
+that day the <i>Anemone cuneifolia</i>, and <i>Ludoviciana</i> and <i>Saxifraga
+oppositifolia</i>, began to flower in favourable situations. My hunter, who
+had, in the mean time, returned to our late wintering ground, now sent
+me word that he had changed his mind, and would not accompany me into
+the Mountains, as he had engaged to do. His fickleness deranged my
+plans, and I had no alternative but to remain with the man who had
+charge of the horses used on the Columbia Portage, and botanize in that
+neighbourhood."</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenote">August.</span>"On the 10th of August, I set out with another hunter, upon whom
+I had prevailed to conduct me to the Smoking River, although, being
+disappointed in a supply of ammunition, we were badly provided. We
+travelled <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_256" id="Page_256">[Pg 256]</a></span>for several days without meeting with any animals, and
+I shared the little dried provision which I had with the hunter's
+family. On the 15th we killed a Mountain sheep, which was quickly
+devoured, there not being the smallest apprehension at the time that
+famine would overtake us&mdash;day after day, however, passed away
+without a single head of game of any description being seen, and the
+children began to complain loudly; but the hunter's wife, a young
+half-breed woman, bore the abstinence with indifference, although she
+had two infant twins at the breast. On the 21st, we found two young
+porcupines, which were shared amongst the party, and two or three days
+afterwards, a few fine trout were caught. We arrived in the Smoking
+River on the 5th of September, where the hunter killed two sheep, and a
+period was put to our abstinence, for before the sheep were eaten, he
+shot several buffaloes."</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenote">September.</span>"We proceeded along the Mountains until the 24th of September,
+and had reached the head waters of the Peace River, when a heavy fall of
+snow stopped my collecting plants for that season. I was, however, very
+desirous of crossing the Mountains to obtain some knowledge of the
+vegetation on the Columbia River, and, accordingly, I commenced drying
+provisions to enable me to accompany the Columbia brigade, when it
+arrived from Hudson's Bay. <span class="sidenote">October.</span>I reached the Portage on the 9th of
+October, and on the 10th the brigade arrived, and I received letters
+from Captain Franklin, instructing me to descend in the spring of 1827,
+time enough to rejoin the Expedition on its way to York Factory. It was,
+therefore, necessary that I should speedily commence my return, and
+having gone with the brigade merely to the west-end of the Portage, I
+came back again on the 1st of November. The snow covered the ground too
+deeply to permit me to add much to my collections in this hasty trip
+over the Mountains, but it was impossible to avoid remarking the great
+superiority of climate on the western side of that lofty range. From the
+instant the descent toward the Pacific commences, there is a visible
+improvement in the growth of timber, and the variety of forest trees
+greatly increases. The few mosses that I gleaned in the excursion were
+so fine, that I could not but deeply regret that I was unable to pass a
+season or two in that interesting region."</p>
+
+<p>"Having packed up all my specimens, I embarked on the Red Deer River,
+with Mr. M'Donald, one of the Company's officers, who was returning from
+a long residence on the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_257" id="Page_257">[Pg 257]</a></span>Columbia with his family, and continued
+to descend the stream until we were set fast by the frost. I then left
+Mr. M'Donald in the charge of the baggage, and, proceeding on foot to
+Fort Assinaboyn, for the purpose of procuring horses, I reached it on
+the fifth day. It was several days before the horses could be obtained,
+and they were several more in travelling from the Fort to Mr. M'Donald,
+during which time that gentleman and his family were very short of
+provisions. The relief, however, arrived opportunely, and they reached
+the Fort in safety. After resting a few days, I set out for Edmonton,
+where I remained for some months."</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenote">March.</span>"The winter express brought me a letter from Dr. Richardson,
+requesting me to join him at Carlton House in April, and I accordingly
+set out for that place on snow shoes, on the 17th of March, taking with
+me single specimens of all the plants gathered on the Mountains, lest
+any accident should happen to the duplicates which were to come by canoe
+in the spring. Two men with a sledge drawn by dogs accompanied me, but
+the Indian inhabitants of the plains being very hostile, we made a large
+circuit to avoid them, and did not reach Carlton House before the 5th of
+April. <span class="sidenote">April.</span>We suffered much from snow-blindness on the march, the
+dogs failed from want of food, we had to carry the baggage on our backs,
+and had nothing to eat for seven days. These sufferings were, however,
+soon forgotten in the kind welcome I received from Dr. Richardson, and
+Mr. Prudens, the Company's Chief Trader at Carlton, and the hospitable
+entertainment and good fare of the latter gentleman's table enabled me
+speedily to recruit my lost strength."</p>
+
+<p>"My collections on the Mountains amounted to about fifteen hundred
+species of plants, one hundred and fifty birds, fifty quadrupeds, and a
+considerable number of insects."</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenote">June.</span>There being yet two months in which Mr. Drummond might continue his
+researches, before Captain Back could arrive at Cumberland House, Dr.
+Richardson had left him on the Saskatchawan River.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenote">18th.</span>After remaining part of a day at Cumberland House, we proceeded on
+our journey, Dr. Richardson following in one of the Company's boats. I
+reached Norway House on the 24th of June, and Dr. Richardson on the
+third day after. Mr. Simpson, the resident Governor of the Company, was
+absent on urgent business at York Factory; but, previous to his
+departure, he had provided a canoe, and some additional men, with every
+other requisite for my journey. We found here Mr. Douglass, who had been
+sent to the Columbia River <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_258" id="Page_258">[Pg 258]</a></span>by the Horticultural Society, as a
+Collector of Natural History, and who had recently crossed the Rocky
+Mountains, for the purpose of proceeding to England from Hudson's Bay.
+This gentleman being desirous of occupying himself previous to the
+arrival of the ship, in making an addition to his collection from the
+neighbourhood of the Red River Colony, I felt happy in being able to
+give him a conveyance, in the canoe with Dr. Richardson and myself,
+through Lake Winipeg, to Fort Alexander, where he met another canoe that
+was going to the Colony.</p>
+
+<p>On quitting Norway House we took leave of our worthy companion,
+Augustus, who was to wait there until Captain Back should arrive. The
+tears which he shed at our parting, so unusual in those uncultivated
+tribes, showed the strength of his feelings, and I have no doubt, they
+proceeded from a sincere affection; an affection which, I can venture to
+say, was mutually felt by every individual. With great regret he learned
+that there was no immediate prospect of our again meeting, and he
+expressed a very strong desire to be informed, if another Expedition
+should be sent to any of the northern parts of America, whether by sea
+or land; and repeatedly assured me, that he and Ooligbuck would be ready
+at any time to quit their families and their country, to accompany any
+of their present officers, wherever the Expedition might be ordered.<a
+name="FNanchor_16_16" id="FNanchor_16_16"></a><a href="#Footnote_16_16" class="fnanchor">[16]</a></p>
+
+<p>We reached Fort Alexander on the 8th of July, and Mr. Douglass having
+left us, I was enabled to offer a passage, as far as Montreal, to
+Monsieur Picard, one of the clergymen attached to the Roman Catholic
+Mission at the Red River Colony. We arrived at Lachine, near Montreal,
+on the 18th of August, and were hospitably entertained by Mr. James
+Keith, Chief Factor, and Agent of the Hudson's Bay Company, with <span
+class="sidenotel">August.</span>whom we remained five days, to settle the
+accounts of the Expedition. After I had paid my respects to his
+Excellency, the Earl of Dalhousie, Governor in Chief of Canada, we
+proceeded to New York by the way of Lake Champlain. In our passage
+through the United States, we received the same kind attentions we had
+before experienced; our personal baggage, and the collections of Natural
+History, were forwarded by the officers of the customs without
+examination, and every assistance we required was promptly rendered.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenotel">September.</span>Having embarked, in the packet ship, on the 1st of September,
+we reached Liverpool on the 26th, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_259" id="Page_259">[Pg 259]</a></span>after an absence of two years,
+seven months and a half. Captain Back, Lieutenant Kendall, and Mr.
+Drummond, with the rest of the British party, arrived at Portsmouth on
+the 10th of October. I then received the distressing intelligence of the
+death of two excellent men, on their homeward passage from Bear Lake to
+York Factory; Archibald Stewart, who died from consumption; and Gustavus
+Aird, who was drowned in consequence of his jumping out of the boat, in
+his exertions to save her, when she was hurrying down the Pelican Fall,
+in Slave River. Until this account reached me, I had cherished the hope
+that our Expedition would have terminated without my having to record a
+single casualty. The loss of these men was the more deeply felt by me,
+from their uniform, steady, obedient, and meritorious conduct, which I
+had repeated opportunities of observing and admiring, while they were my
+companions in the Lion, during the voyage along the coast.</p>
+
+<p>I must be allowed to add, that in this long homeward journey, in which
+there were no fresh discoveries to be made, nor any of those excitements
+that relieve the monotony of constant labour, and in which they had to
+contend with a succession of dangerous rapids, there was the same
+masterly skill and exemplary conduct evinced by Captain Back and
+Lieutenant Kendall; and the same patient and ready obedience by the
+men<a name="FNanchor_17_17" id="FNanchor_17_17"></a><a href="#Footnote_17_17" class="fnanchor">[17]</a>, which had marked their whole conduct, while more immediately
+under my own observation.</p>
+
+<p>On my arrival in London, on the 29th of September, accompanied by Dr.
+Richardson, I had the honour of laying the charts and drawings before
+his Royal Highness the Lord High Admiral, and Mr. Secretary Huskisson;
+and, from the latter, I received directions to publish an account of our
+proceedings.</p>
+
+<hr style='width: 5%;' />
+
+<p>In concluding this Narrative, I feel it incumbent on me to offer a few
+remarks on the subject of a <i>North-West Passage</i>, which, though it has
+not been the immediate object of the enterprises in which I have been
+engaged, is yet so intimately connected with them, as to have naturally
+excited in my mind, a strong and permanent interest. It is scarcely
+necessary to remark, that the opinion I ventured to express in my former
+work, as to the practicability of the passage<a name="FNanchor_18_18" id="FNanchor_18_18"></a><a href="#Footnote_18_18" class="fnanchor">[18]</a>, has been considerably
+strengthened by the information obtained during the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_260" id="Page_260">[Pg 260]</a></span>present
+Expedition. The Northern Coast of America has now been actually surveyed
+from the meridian of 109&deg; to 149&frac12;&deg; west; and again by the
+exertions of Captain Beechey, in His Majesty's ship the Blossom, from
+Icy Cape eastward to about 156&deg; west, leaving not more than fifty
+leagues of unsurveyed coast, between Point Turnagain and Icy Cape.
+Further, the delineation of the west side of Melville Peninsula, in the
+chart of Captain Parry's Second Voyage, conjoined with information which
+we obtained from the Northern Indians, fairly warrants the conclusion,
+that the coast preserves an easterly direction from Point Turnagain
+towards Repulse Bay; and that, in all probability, there are no
+insurmountable obstacles between this part of the Polar Sea and the
+extensive openings into the Atlantic, through Prince Regent Inlet and
+the Strait of the Fury and Hecla.</p>
+
+<p>Whenever it may be considered desirable to complete the delineation of
+the coast of the American Continent, I conceive that another attempt
+should be made to connect Point Turnagain with the important discoveries
+of Captain Parry, by renewing the Expedition which was undertaken by
+Captain Lyon, and which, but for the boisterous weather that disabled
+the Griper, must have long since repaid his well known zeal and
+enterprize with discoveries of very great interest.</p>
+
+<p>In considering the best means of effecting the North-West Passage in a
+ship, it has hitherto been impossible not to assent to the opinion so
+judiciously formed, and so convincingly stated, by Captain Parry, that
+the attempt should be made from the Atlantic rather than by Behring's
+Straits, because the enterprise is then commenced after a voyage of
+short duration, subject to comparatively few vicissitudes of climate,
+and with the equipments thoroughly effective. But important as these
+advantages are, they may, perhaps, be more than balanced by some
+circumstances which have been brought to light by our Expedition. The
+prevalence of north-west winds during the season that the ice is in the
+most favourable state for navigation, would greatly facilitate the
+voyage of a ship to the eastward, whilst it would be equally adverse to
+her progress in the opposite direction. It is also well known, that the
+coast westward of the Mackenzie is almost unapproachable by ships, and
+it would, therefore, be very desirable to get over that part of the
+voyage in the first season. Though we did not observe any such easterly
+current as was found by Captain Parry in the Fury and Hecla Strait, as
+well as by Captain Kotzebue, on his voyage through Behring's Straits;
+yet this may have arisen from our having been confined to the navigation
+of the flats close to the shore; but if such a current does <span class='pagenum'><a
+name="Page_261" id="Page_261">[Pg 261]</a></span>exist throughout the Polar Sea, it
+is evident that it would materially assist a ship commencing the
+undertaking from the Pacific, and keeping in the deep water, which
+would, no doubt, be found at a moderate distance from the shore.</p>
+
+<p>The closeness and quantity of the ice in the Polar Seas vary much in
+different years; but, should it be in the same state that we found it, I
+would not recommend a ship's leaving Icy Cape earlier than the middle of
+August, for after that period the ice was not only broken up within the
+sphere of our vision, but a heavy swell rolling from the northward,
+indicated a sea unsheltered by islands, and not much encumbered by ice.
+By quitting Icy Cape at the time specified, I should confidently hope to
+reach a secure wintering place to the eastward of Cape Bathurst, in the
+direct route to the Dolphin and Union Straits, through which I should
+proceed.<a name="FNanchor_19_19" id="FNanchor_19_19"></a><a href="#Footnote_19_19" class="fnanchor">[19]</a> If either, or both, of the plans which I have suggested be
+adopted, it would add to the confidence and safety of those who
+undertake them, if one or two dep&ocirc;ts of provisions were
+established in places of ready access, through the medium of the
+Hudson's Bay Company.</p>
+
+<p>Arctic discovery has been fostered principally by Great Britain; and it
+is a subject of just pride that it has been prosecuted by her from
+motives as disinterested as they are enlightened; not from any prospect
+of immediate benefit to herself, but from a steady view to the
+acquirement of useful knowledge, and the extension of the bounds of
+science. Each succeeding attempt has added a step towards the completion
+of northern geography; and the contributions to natural history and
+science have excited a general interest throughout the civilized world.
+It is, moreover, pleasing to reflect that the loss of life which has
+occurred in the prosecution of these discoveries does not exceed the
+average number of deaths in the same population at home under
+circumstances the most favourable. And it is sincerely to be hoped that
+Great Britain will not relax her efforts until the question of a
+north-west passage has been satisfactorily set at rest, or at least
+until those portions of the northern shores of America, which are yet
+unknown, be laid down in our maps; and which with the exception of a
+small space on the Asiatic continent eastward of Shelatskoi Noss, are
+the only intervals wanting to complete the outline of Europe, Asia, and
+America.</p> <p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p class="center"><small>END OF THE NARRATIVE.</small></p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<p class="center"><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_262" id="Page_262">[Pg 262]</a></span><i>Summary of the Distances travelled by the Expedition, from
+its<br />Landing in America, until its Embarkation.</i></p>
+
+<hr style='width: 10%;' />
+
+<table width="80%"> <tr><td align="center"></td><td align="center"><i>Statute<br />Miles.</i></td></tr> <tr><td>Distance travelled in 1825, as given in page 60</td><td align="center">5,803</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Dr. Richardson and Mr. Kendall's excursion on the ice to the eastern
+parts of Bear Lake, in the Spring of 1826</td><td align="center">359</td></tr> <tr><td>Distance travelled by the
+Western Party in 1826 (given in p. 235.)</td><td align="center">2,048</td></tr> <tr><td>Distance travelled by the
+Eastern Party in 1826, after its separation from the Western Party</td><td align="center">1,455</td></tr>
+<tr><td>Return from Fort Franklin to New York</td><td align="center">4,000</td></tr> <tr><td>Captain Back and Lieutenant
+Kendall's journey to York Factory, after quitting Captain Franklin's
+route<br /></td><td align="center" class="underline"><br />520</td></tr> <tr><td>Distance travelled by the Expedition in going and returning,
+including the excursions of detached parties<br /></td><td align="center" class="underline"><br />14,185</td></tr> <tr><td>Number of miles
+surveyed and laid down in the maps, but not all included under the head
+of discoveries, because the routes have been traversed by Traders</td><td align="center">5,000</td></tr> </table>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_15_15" id="Footnote_15_15"></a><a href="#FNanchor_15_15"><span class="label">[15]</span></a>Notwithstanding the severity of the weather, we had great
+difficulty in causing these animals to depart from their usual custom of
+sleeping in the snow, and in inducing them to occupy the warm houses
+which were built for them.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_16_16" id="Footnote_16_16"></a><a href="#FNanchor_16_16"><span class="label">[16]</span></a>I have pleasure in mentioning that, by permission of Government, the
+pay which was due to Augustus and Ooligbuck, has been delivered to the
+Directors of the Hudson's Bay Company, who have undertaken to distribute
+it to them annually, in the way suited to their wants.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_17_17" id="Footnote_17_17"></a><a href="#FNanchor_17_17"><span class="label">[17]</span></a>I am happy to add, that those men who had been in His Majesty's
+service before the present Expedition, have been rewarded by promotion.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_18_18" id="Footnote_18_18"></a><a href="#FNanchor_18_18"><span class="label">[18]</span></a>See page 388.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_19_19" id="Footnote_19_19"></a><a href="#FNanchor_19_19"><span class="label">[19]</span></a>See Dr. Richardson's opinion in favour of this route, p. <a href="#Page_218">218</a>.</p></div>
+
+</div>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" /> <p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_263" id="Page_263">[Pg 263]</a></span></p> <h2><a name="APPENDIX" id="APPENDIX"></a>APPENDIX.</h2> <hr style="width: 5%;" />
+
+<h3>TOPOGRAPHICAL AND GEOLOGICAL NOTICES,</h3> <h6>BY</h6> <h3>JOHN RICHARDSON, M.D., F.R.S.,
+&amp;c.</h3> <h6>SURGEON AND NATURALIST TO THE EXPEDITION.</h6>
+
+<p class="center"><small>[<i>Read before the Geological Society.</i>]</small></p>
+
+<hr style="width: 5%;" />
+
+<p><span class="smcap">A very</span> limited portion of my time could be allotted to geological
+inquiries. For eight months in the year the ground in the northern parts
+of America is covered with snow; and during the short summer, the
+prosecution of the main object of the expedition rendered the slightest
+delay in our journey unadvisable. The few hours that could be stolen
+from the necessary halts, for rest and refreshment, were principally
+occupied in the collection of objects for the illustration of botany
+and zoology. It is evident, that an account of the rock formations,
+drawn up under such circumstances, cannot be otherwise than very
+imperfect; but I have been led to publish it from the belief that, in
+the absence of more precise information, even the slightest notice of
+the rocks of the extreme northern parts of the American continent would
+be useful to those employed in developing the structure of the crust of
+the earth; the more especially, as it is not probable that the same
+tract of country will soon be trod by an expert geologist. The specimens
+of rocks I obtained have been deposited in the Museum of the Geological
+Society, and are referred to in the ensuing pages by the numbers affixed
+to them. The notices are arranged nearly in the order of the route of
+the expedition, commencing with Great Bear Lake, where our winter
+quarters were situated.</p>
+
+
+<h4>GREAT BEAR LAKE.</h4>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Great</span> Bear Lake is an extensive sheet of water, of a very irregular
+shape, being formed by the union of five arms or bays in a common
+centre. The greatest diameter of the lake, measuring about one hundred
+and fifty geographical miles, runs <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_264" id="Page_264">[Pg 264]</a></span>from the bottom of Dease Bay,
+which receives the principal feeding stream, to the bottom of Keith Bay,
+from whence the Bear Lake River issues, and has a direction from N.E. to
+S.W. The transverse diameter has a direction from N.W. by W. to S.E. by
+E., through Smith and M'Tavish Bays, and is upwards of one hundred and
+twenty miles in length. M'Vicar Bay, the fifth arm of the lake, is
+narrower than the others, and being a little curved at its mouth,
+appears less connected with the main body of water. The light
+bluish-coloured water of Great Bear Lake is every where transparent, and
+is particularly clear near some primitive mountains, which exist in
+M'Tavish Bay. A piece of white rag, let down there, did not disappear
+until it descended fifteen fathoms. The depth of water, in the centre of
+the lake was not ascertained; but it is known to be very considerable.
+Near the shore, in M'Tavish Bay, forty-five fathoms of line did not
+reach the bottom. Owing to the barometers supplied to the expedition
+having been broken in an early period of its progress, the height of the
+surface of Bear Lake above the Arctic Sea could not be ascertained; but
+it is, probably, short of two hundred feet.<a name="FNanchor_20_20" id="FNanchor_20_20"></a><a href="#Footnote_20_20" class="fnanchor">[20]</a> If this supposition
+comes near the truth, the bottom of M'Tavish Bay is below the level of
+the sea, and towards the centre of the basin of the lake the depression
+is probably still greater. The great lakes, Huron, Michigan, and
+Superior, which discharge their waters into the St. Lawrence, are
+reported to sink three hundred feet below the level of the ocean; and
+the Lake of the Mountains, or Chipewyan Lake and Great Slave Lake,<a
+name="FNanchor_21_21" id="FNanchor_21_21"></a><a href="#Footnote_21_21" class="fnanchor">[21]</a> through which the
+Mackenzie flows, have, it is highly probable, some portions of their
+beds below the sea level.</p>
+
+<p>In the autumn of 1825, I coasted the western and northern shores of the
+Great Bear Lake; and in the spring of 1826, travelled on the ice along
+its eastern and southern arms, leaving no part of its shores unexamined
+on these two surveys, except the north side of M'Tavish Bay. I did not,
+however, on these occasions, make excursions inland.</p>
+
+
+<h4>PRIMITIVE ROCKS.&mdash;GREAT BEAR LAKE.</h4>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">At</span> the south-east corner of M'Tavish Bay, primitive rocks form a hilly
+range which, at the distance of a mile or two from <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_265" id="Page_265">[Pg 265]</a></span>the shore,
+attains an elevation of eight hundred or one thousand feet. The steep
+face of the range forms the shore of the lake for fifteen miles, and
+perhaps further, on a direction from N.W. by W. to S.E. by E., and is
+prolonged on the latter bearing, at the back of the lower country lying
+towards Point Leith. The general form of the hills is obtuse-conical, in
+some instances approaching to dome-shaped. None of them rise much above
+the others, and the vallies between them are seldom wide or deep. At a
+distance, some of the masses of rock appear round-backed; and in certain
+points of view, the crest of the ridge seems to consist of mammillary
+peaks. On a nearer approach, the individual hills are found to be
+composed of rounded eminences, having summits, generally, of an oblong
+form, and consisting of smooth, naked rock. Small mural precipices are
+frequent, and many detached blocks of stone lie beneath them. Between
+the eminences, there are level spots destitute of vegetation, and
+covered with small stones or gravel not much worn. A considerable
+portion of the gravel is granite or quartz, the debris, perhaps, of the
+rocks, of which the hills consist; it contains also some pieces of
+slate, and not a few of quartzose sandstone, neither of which I observed
+<i>in situ</i>. In the course of a walk of two miles over these hills, the
+only rock I observed was granite, verging in a few places towards
+gneiss, and generally whitish, with black mica. Sometimes the felspar is
+brownish-red, and the rock not unfrequently contains disseminated
+augite? The weathered surface of the stone was every where of a
+brick-red colour. In many spots the rocks split into such thin slaty
+looking tables that they have the appearance of being stratified. The
+slaty masses are, generally, vertical; but in one hill they were
+observed dipping 80&deg; to the south-east. The direction of the tabular
+masses is mostly across the oblong summits of the hills. The appearances
+of stratification were not observed to extend through a whole hill, and
+seemed, in fact, to be confined to the more decomposable granites; but
+the naked rocks are every where traversed by smooth fissures. The
+blocks, which lie under the cliffs, have sometimes a tabular form, but
+more generally come nearer to a cube or rhomboid, and present one or two
+very even faces. Few veins were noticed. In the more sheltered vallies,
+some clumps of white or black spruce trees occur; but the hills are
+barren.</p>
+
+<p>The point of land which lies between M'Tavish and M'Vicar Bays has low
+shores; but five or six miles inland, an even-<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_266" id="Page_266">[Pg 266]</a></span>backed ridge rises
+gradually to the height of three or four hundred feet, and abuts
+obliquely against the primitive hills. I did not visit this ridge, and
+the snow prevented me from seeing any flat beds of rocks, if such exist
+on the shore. On one point, however, near the north end of Dease Bay,
+many large angular blocks of whitish dolomite were piled up, and I have
+little doubt of the rock existing <i>in situ</i> in that immediate
+neighbourhood.</p>
+
+<p>M'Tavish Bay is forty miles long, and twenty wide, and its depth of
+water, near the eastern shore, exceeds forty-five fathoms. Some shoals
+of boulders skirt the coast near Point Leith. M'Vicar Bay is about
+seventy miles long, and from eight to twelve wide; and at the "fishery,"
+in a narrow part, not far from its bottom, its depth of water, two miles
+from the shore, is twelve fathoms. Dease Bay is equal to M'Tavish Bay in
+extent, and opens to the S.W. into the body of the lake. The high lands
+at the N.E. end, or bottom of this bay, have an even outline, and appear
+to attain an elevation of eight or nine hundred feet, at the distance
+of six or seven miles from the shore. Near its east side lie the lofty
+islands of Narrakazz&aelig; which rise seven hundred feet above the
+lake. Dease River, the principal feeder of the lake, falls into the
+bottom of Dease Bay. It is two hundred yards wide, and from one to three
+fathoms deep near its mouth. A few miles up this river a formation of
+soft red sandstone occurs, which will be noticed hereafter.</p>
+
+
+<h4>LIMESTONE.&mdash;GREAT BEAR LAKE.</h4>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">At</span> the mouth of Dease river there are hills five or six <span class="sidenoteln">228*</span>hundred feet
+high, composed principally, or entirely, of dolomite in horizontal
+strata. Some of the beds consist of a thick-slaty, fine-grained
+dolomite, containing dispersed scales of mica, which is most abundant on
+the surfaces of the slates. <span class="sidenoteln">228</span>Most of the beds, however, consist of a
+thin-slaty, dull, purplish dolomite, traversed by veins of calc-spar.
+The structure of this rock is compact, approaching to fine granular; and
+some of the beds have what quarry-men term "clay-facings," that is, they
+are encrusted with a thin film of indurated clay.</p>
+
+<p>Greenstone slate? occurs in horizontal beds on the north shore, eight or
+nine miles to the westward of Dease River: <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_267" id="Page_267">[Pg 267]</a></span>and at Limestone
+Point,<a name="FNanchor_22_22" id="FNanchor_22_22"></a><a href="#Footnote_22_22" class="fnanchor">[22]</a> about twenty miles from the river, a small range of hills
+terminates on the borders of the lake, in shelving, broken cliffs, about
+two hundred feet high. These cliffs consist chiefly of nearly compact
+light-coloured dolomite, interstratified with greenstone, and a
+brownish-red limestone, such as occurs in the hills at the mouth of the
+Dease River. In contact with the greenstone, there is a bed of talcose
+limestone, having a curved, slaty structure; most of the beds of
+dolomite are hard, and pass into chert.</p>
+
+
+<h4>ALUMINOUS SHALE.&mdash;GREAT BEAR LAKE.</h4>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">The</span> north shore of Bear Lake is low, and is skirted by many shoals,
+formed by boulders of limestone. No rocks, <i>in situ</i>, are exposed
+between Limestone Point and the Scented Grass Hill, a remarkable
+promontory, which separates Smith and Keith bays. Its height above the
+lake is betwixt eight and nine hundred feet, and in form and altitude it
+corresponds with the Great Bear Mountain, which, lying opposite to it,
+separates <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_268" id="Page_268">[Pg 268]</a></span>M'Vicar and Keith bays. I did not ascend either of
+these hills; but cliffs, corresponding in character to those of the
+aluminous shale-banks at Whitby, flank their bases; and the same
+formation probably extends along the north shore of Keith Bay, and some
+way down Bear Lake River. The ground skirting the Scented Grass and
+Great Bear Mountains is much broken, and consists of small, rounded and
+steep eminences, separated by narrow vallies and small lakes. Several
+shelving cliffs, about one hundred feet high, and some miles in extent
+are washed by Bear Lake. <span class="sidenoteln">251<br /><br /><br />244<br />246<br />247<br /><br /><br />249<br />250<br />248<br /></span>They consist of slate-clay
+and shale, more or less bituminous, and the dip of the strata is in
+several places to the N.W. by N. At the foot of the Scented Grass Hill a
+rivulet has made a section to the depth of one hundred feet, and here
+the shaly beds are interstratified with thin layers of blackish-brown,
+earthy-looking swinestone, containing selenite and pyrites. Globular
+concretions of the same stone, and of a poor clay iron-stone, also occur
+in beds in the shale. The surfaces of the slates were covered with an
+efflorescence of alum and sulphur. Many crystals of sulphate of iron lie
+at the bottom of the cliff, and several layers of plumose alum, half an
+inch thick, occur in the strata. At the base of Great Bear Mountain, the
+bituminous shale is interstratified with slate-clay, and I found
+imbedded in the former a single piece of brown coal, in which the
+fibrous structure of wood is apparent. Sections of slate-clay banks, and
+more rarely of bituminous shale, occur in several places on the north
+shore of Keith Bay. In one place, about seven or eight miles from Bear
+Lake River, a bed of plastic and bituminous clay occurs, and in another,
+near Fort Franklin, there is a deposit of an earthy coal, which
+possesses the characters of <i>black chalk</i>.</p>
+
+<p>It is probable that a magnesian limestone underlies this formation of
+bituminous shale. I have already mentioned the beds of dolomite, which
+are exposed on the north side of Bear Lake, and similar beds occur to
+the southward of the Great Bear Mountain, forming cliffs on the shores
+of M'Vicar Bay. At Manito Point, on the west side of the isthmus that
+connects Great Bear Mountain to the main shore, a low ridge of limestone
+rocks terminates on the borders of the lake, forming some bold cliffs
+and a remarkable cave. The stone has a gray colour and bituminous smell,
+and contains much interspersed calc-spar. The strata dip to the
+north-west.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_269" id="Page_269">[Pg 269]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h4>VICINITY OF FORT FRANKLIN, GREAT BEAR LAKE.</h4>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Fort</span> Franklin stands on the northern shore of Keith Bay, about four
+miles from Bear Lake River, upon a small terrace, which is elevated
+twenty-five or thirty feet above the lake. The bay, contracting towards
+the river, is about four miles wide opposite to the fort, and the depth
+of water there does not exceed four fathoms. Farther from the river, the
+east and west shores of Keith Bay recede to the distance of thirty miles
+from each other, and the depth of water in the centre of the channel
+greatly increases. The bottom of this bay, wherever it could be
+distinguished, was observed to be sandy, and thickly strewed with round
+boulders<a name="FNanchor_23_23" id="FNanchor_23_23"></a><a href="#Footnote_23_23" class="fnanchor">[23]</a> of various primitive rocks of <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_270" id="Page_270">[Pg 270]</a></span>large size, which
+were particularly abundant near the river, and with large square blocks
+of limestone, most plentiful near the cape formed by the Scented Grass
+Hill. In the small bay between the fort and the river, shoals are formed
+by accumulations of boulders, and the shores are thickly strewed with
+them. <span class="sidenotel">261 to 308</span>Many of these travelled blocks consist of flesh-red
+granite, having only a small quantity of black mica, exactly resembling
+the primitive rocks seen in M'Tavish Bay, but noticed no where else near
+the lake. Boulders of the same description occur in shoals at the mouth
+of M'Tavish Bay, and on the shores which skirt the Scented Grass Hill
+which faces that bay, to all which places they may have been brought
+from the parent rock, by a current flowing from the east. On the
+northern shore of Bear Lake the great majority of the boulders consists
+of limestone. <span class="sidenotel">266 282</span>Two varieties of granite, which occur amongst the
+boulders, were recognised as being abundant rocks at Fort Enterprise,
+which is situated about one hundred and seventy miles south-east from
+M'Tavish Bay. Some of the boulders were of a peculiar-looking porphyry
+exactly resembling that which occurs in the height of land betwixt the
+Coppermine River and Dease Bay; several of sandstone and conglomerate,
+which probably came from the same quarter; of greenstone, perhaps, from
+the Copper Mountains, and of limestone from the northern shores of the
+lake, and from the isthmus of the Great Bear Mountain; all these places
+lying to the eastward or north-east.</p>
+
+<p>The soil in the immediate vicinity of Fort Franklin is sandy, or
+gravelly, and covers, to the depth of one or two feet, a bed of clay of
+unknown thickness. Gravel taken from a spot thirty feet above the
+present high-water level of the lake, and out of the reach of any stream
+or torrent, contained rounded pebbles of granite, of greenstone, of
+quartz rock, of lydian stone, and of various sandstones, of which some
+were spotted, and <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_271" id="Page_271">[Pg 271]</a></span>others presented zones of different colours.
+These sandstones form a considerable portion of the gravel.<a
+name="FNanchor_24_24" id="FNanchor_24_24"></a><a href="#Footnote_24_24" class="fnanchor">[24]</a></p>
+
+<p>The clay which lies under the soil is of a bluish-gray colour, and is
+plastic but not very tenacious. It is more or less mixed with gravel.
+During the greater part of the year it is firmly frozen; the thaw in the
+two seasons we remained there never penetrating more than twenty-one
+inches from the surface of the earth. In spots where the sandy soil is
+wanting, the clay is covered a foot deep, or more, by mosses, mostly
+<i>bryum palustre</i>, and some marsh <i>hypna</i> and <i>dicrana</i>, in a living
+state, for they seem to be converted very slowly into peat in this
+climate.</p>
+
+<p>The ground rises gradually behind the fort, until it attains, at the
+distance of half a mile from the lake, the height of two hundred feet,
+forming, when viewed from the southward, an even ridge, running nearly
+east and west&mdash;which ridge is, in fact, the high bank of the lake,
+as it corresponds in height with the summit level of the banks of Bear
+Lake River, and of the southern shore of Keith Bay. The country
+extending to the northward, from the top of the bank, is nearly level,
+or has a very gentle ascent for about five miles, when a more abrupt
+ridge rises to perhaps three hundred or four hundred feet above the
+lake. The view from the summit of this second eminence is very
+extensive, the whole country as far as the eye can reach appearing to be
+a level, from which several <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_272" id="Page_272">[Pg 272]</a></span>narrow precipitous ridges of
+limestone arise. But, although the country around these ridges appears
+from a distance to be level, or very slightly undulated, yet it abounds
+in small eminences and steep-sided vallies of various shapes, some being
+rounded and basin-shaped, others long and narrow. Lakes and swamps are
+here so numerous, that the country, for at least sixty miles to the
+northward, is impassable in summer, even to the natives. There are many
+mounds of sand and gravel, and fragments of sandstone are frequent; but
+having travelled in this direction only in winter, when the ground was
+covered to the depth of upwards of three feet with snow, I had not an
+opportunity of examining its geological structure. White spruces cover
+the drier spots; larches, black spruces, and willows abound in moist
+places; the sandy hillocks are clothed with aspens, and the sides of the
+vallies support some canoe birches, with a thick undergrowth of dwarf
+birches, alders, and rose-bushes. The eminence from whence the view just
+described was obtained, appears like a ridge only in approaching it from
+the lake, for it rises very little above the general level of the
+country behind it. It has a direction from N.W. by N. to S.E. by S., and
+terminates about eight miles to the eastward of the fort, in a small
+bluff point on the shores of the lake and there the strata consist of
+slate-clay slightly bituminous. The banks immediately behind the fort
+also exhibit, in their ravines, a bluish slate-clay.</p>
+
+<p>The land on the south side, or bottom, of Keith Bay, presents a nearly
+similar aspect to that just described, rising, on the borders of the
+lake, to the height of one hundred and fifty feet, and then running back
+to a great distance nearly level. It may be characterized as full of
+hollows, narrow vallies, ravines, and lakes; but it is not hilly,
+although it is traversed by ridges of limestone, which rise like walls
+through the flat country. The nearest of these ridges terminates on the
+borders of the lake at the <i>Manito Point</i>, (noticed in page vii.) It may
+be proper to remark here, that, in addition to the limestone ridges
+visible from Fort Franklin, or from the heights behind it, the summit
+of Clark Hill, bearing south, and forming part of a ridge about fifty
+miles distant, was distinctly seen. This hill lies behind Old Fort
+Norman on the Mackenzie, and has more the outline of a granitic rock,
+although some of the peaks which skirt it have the serrated crests which
+the limestone ridges in this quarter show. It was guessed to be 1500
+feet high above the Mackenzie.</p>
+
+<p>This sketch of the general features of the country about <span class='pagenum'><a
+name="Page_273" id="Page_273">[Pg 273]</a></span>Fort Franklin being premised, the
+ensuing geological notices follow in the order of the route of the
+Expedition.</p>
+
+
+<h4>BEAR LAKE RIVER&mdash;SANDSTONE, LIMESTONE.</h4>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Bear</span> Lake River is about seventy miles long, from its origin in the lake
+till it falls into the Mackenzie, and throughout its whole length, its
+breadth is never less than one hundred and fifty yards, except at the
+<i>Rapid</i>, a remarkable place, about the middle of its course. It is from
+one to three fathoms deep, and very rapid, its velocity being estimated
+at six miles in the hour. Its waters are clear as they issue from the
+lake, but several branches of considerable size bring down muddy water,
+particularly one which flows from the north, and falls in below the
+rapid.</p>
+
+<p>Above the rapid, the valley of the river is very narrow, the banks every
+where sloping steeply from the level of the country. Their summit line,
+which is nearly straight, is about one hundred and fifty feet above the
+bed of the river. In some places they have an even face elevated at an
+angle of about forty-five degrees, and they are not unfrequently cut by
+ravines into pretty regular figures, resembling hay-ricks, or the
+parapet of a fort, the ravines representing the embrasures. Sections
+made by the river presented generally sand or clay; the sand probably
+proceeding from the disintegration of a friable, gray sandstone, which
+showed itself occasionally in a more solid form. The rapidity of our
+voyage, however, afforded us little opportunity of searching for the
+solid strata which are generally hid by the debris of the bank. About
+twelve miles above the rapid, a small-grained, friable sandstone, of a
+yellowish gray colour, and irregular earthy fracture, is associated with
+beds of bluish-gray slate-clay. These beds consist of concretions of
+various sizes and irregular shapes, but which may be said to approach in
+general to a depressed orbicular form; their surfaces are coloured
+purplish-brown by iron, and studded with crystals of sulphate of lime.
+This slate-clay contains many small round grains of quartz, and is
+exactly similar to that which occurs at the rapid, and which will be
+afterwards noticed. In other places the banks are covered by the debris
+of a slate-clay slightly bituminous, resembling wacke in its mode of
+disintegrating.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_274" id="Page_274">[Pg 274]</a></span>The <i>Rapid</i> is caused by the river struggling through a chasm
+bounded by two perpendicular walls of sandstone, over an uneven bed of
+the same material. On escaping from this narrow passage, it winds round
+the end of a lofty cliff of limestone, which forms part of a ridge that
+is continued through the country on both sides of the river.</p>
+
+<p>Viewed from the summit of this ridge, which rises about eight hundred
+feet above the river, the country towards Bear Lake appears level. The
+view down the river presents also a plain country, bounded on the
+Mackenzie by another limestone ridge, which, unless the eye was deceived
+by the distance, gradually inclined to the one at the rapid, and
+appeared, by joining it to the northward, to form a great basin. These
+ridges are also prolonged to the southward. The plain is covered with
+wood, intersected by chains of lakes, and seemed to lie rather below the
+summit level of the banks of Bear Lake River. It is only comparatively,
+that the country deserves the name of plain, for its surface is much
+varied by depressions, ravines, and small eminences, that do not,
+however, destroy the general level appearance when seen from a distance.
+The view from the hill is terminated, to the westward, by the distant
+chain of the Rocky Mountains, running nearly N.W. by N. A little below
+the rapid, a small stream from the southward flows into the Bear Lake
+River, near whose sources the Indians procure an excellent common salt,
+which is deposited from the springs by spontaneous evaporation.</p>
+
+<p>The walls of the rapid are about three miles long, and 120 feet high.
+<span class="sidenoteln">25</span>They are composed of horizontal beds, the lower of which consist of an
+earthy-looking stone, intermediate between slate-clay and sandstone,
+having interiorly a dull yellowish-gray colour. Concretions, with smooth
+surfaces, about the thickness of a swan's quill, pass perpendicularly
+through the beds like pins, are prolonged beyond the partings, and bear
+some resemblance to portions of the roots or branches of a tree. The
+seam surfaces are very uneven. These beds are parted by thin, slaty
+layers, of a stone similar in appearance, but rather harder, and
+containing many <span class="sidenoteln">18<br />19<br /><br />1827</span>interspersed scales of mica, and also some
+minute portions of carbonaceous matter in the form of lignite. The thin
+layers contain impressions of ferns, and from the debris at the bottom
+of the cliff I gathered impressions of the bark of a tree
+(lepidodendron) and some am<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_275" id="Page_275">[Pg 275]</a></span>monites in a brown iron-shot
+sandstone.<a name="FNanchor_25_25" id="FNanchor_25_25"></a><a href="#Footnote_25_25" class="fnanchor">[25]</a> <span class="sidenotel">18, 20, 21,<br />22, 23, 24,<br />26, 27,<br /><br /><br />28</span>The upper beds are
+composed of a fine grained, quartzose, gray sandstone, having an earthy
+basis, and occasionally interspersed carbonaceous matter. Some of the
+beds are a foot and a half thick, and have sufficient tenacity to be
+fitted for making grindstones; most of the sandstone is, however, rather
+friable. Near the summit there is interposed a bed of fine-grained
+dolomite, and a friable sandstone, which forms the crest of the cliff,
+and exhibits in its weathering battlement-shaped projections and
+pinnacles. Covering this sandstone, but not quite to the margin of the
+cliff, there is a layer of slaty<span class="sidenoteln">29</span> limestone, having a bluish or
+blackish-gray colour, a dull fracture, and rather compact structure. In
+the lower beds of the cliff there are some globular and disk-shaped
+concretions, of an indurated iron-shot slate-clay, or poor
+clay-iron-stone,<span class="sidenoteln">30</span> containing pyrites. They vary in magnitude from six
+inches to a foot and a half in diameter, and appear to be formed of
+concentric layers, which are rendered apparent by the weathering of the
+stone. The sandstones and shales of the rapid have a strong resemblance
+in appearance to those of the coal measures; but pitch-coal was not
+detected at this place. Several distinct concretions of indurated
+slate-clay, assuming the appearance termed <i>cone in cone</i>, were picked up
+among the boulders on the banks of Bear Lake River, some way below the
+rapid, but they were not traced to their parent beds. They effervesce
+with acids.</p>
+
+<p>Between the walls of the rapid and the limestone ridge there is a piece
+of meadow-ground, having a soft, clayey soil, in which, near the base of
+the hill, a small rivulet flows to join the river. The bed of this
+rivulet presents accumulations of boulders of large size, arranged so as
+to form two terraces, the upper of which is considerably above the
+highest level either of the rivulet, or of Bear Lake River. The boulders
+consist of varieties of granite, gneiss, mica-slate with garnets,
+greenstone and porphyry. <span class="sidenoteln">50</span>One of the porphyries is a beautiful stone,
+composed of hyacinth-red felspar, and irregular crystals of milky
+quartz, with a few specks of a dark <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_276" id="Page_276">[Pg 276]</a></span>green mineral, and very much
+resembles a rock which is not uncommon in the gneiss districts about
+Fort Enterprize. <span class="sidenoteln">45,<br />47,<br />50,<br />51,<br />49</span>Many of the boulders consist of
+conglomerates and sandstones that strongly resemble those of the old red
+sandstone formation, which forms the height of land between Dease Bay
+and Coppermine rivers. Also some flinty slates, mixed, in thin layers,
+with compact, yellowish limestone, and some pebbles of jasper
+interleaved with flinty slate.</p>
+
+<p>The limestone ridge below the rapid stands on a narrow base, whose
+transverse diameter does not exceed a quarter of a mile. Its summits are
+generally conical, but very rugged and craggy; the highest peak I had an
+opportunity of visiting is about a mile from Bear Lake River, and it has
+been already stated to be estimated at eight hundred feet above that
+stream, or nine hundred and fifty above the sea. The general direction
+of the ridge is from S.E. by S. to N.W. by N., or nearly parallel to the
+great Rocky Mountain chain, and to the smaller ridges betwixt it and
+that chain. Its prolongation through the flat surrounding strata, to the
+southward of Bear Lake River, can be traced for at least forty miles,
+and it is visible at nearly an equal distance, as it runs through the
+still more level country to the northward; but here, as has been already
+said, it appears to incline towards the similar ridge which is cut by
+the Mackenzie, at the mouth of the Bear Lake River, and is about
+twenty-five miles to the W.S.W., in a direct line. That part of the
+ridge which I had an opportunity of visiting, consisted entirely of
+limestone, generally in thick beds. Its stratification was not very
+evident, and in my very cursory examination the general dip was not
+clearly ascertained. A precipitous cliff, four hundred feet high, facing
+the S.E., and washed by the Bear Lake River, presents strata, inclined
+to the S.W. at an angle of 45&deg;, which may be perhaps considered as
+the general dip; for the ridge on that side slopes down to the
+surrounding country at an angle of about 30&deg; or 40&deg;, while on
+the N.E. side it presents lofty precipices formed by the cropping out of
+the strata. <span class="sidenotel">39, 34<br />40</span>Many of the beds in this hill consisted of a
+blackish-gray fine grained limestone, intersected by veins of calc-spar;
+but several layers of gray and dark coloured dolomites, and some of a
+yellowish-gray <i>rauchwacke</i>, were interstratified with them, and the
+upper parts of the precipitous cliff, <span class="sidenotel">35, 36</span>and also of the highest
+peak, consisted of a calcareous breccia, containing rounded pieces of
+brown limestone, and angular fragments<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_277" id="Page_277">[Pg 277]</a></span><span class="sidenotel">42, 43, 44</span> of chert; and
+the faces of some cliffs, on the N.E. side of the hill, were incrusted
+with a fine crystalline gypsum to the depth of from one to two feet.<a
+name="FNanchor_26_26" id="FNanchor_26_26"></a><a href="#Footnote_26_26" class="fnanchor">[26]</a></p>
+
+<p>The banks of Bear Lake River below the rapid have a more gentle
+declivity than those above it, and they occasionally recede from the
+stream, so as to leave a grassy slope varying from a few yards to half a
+mile in breadth. The sections of these banks by torrents present only
+sand or clay; and the hollows of the ravines are lined with boulders
+principally of primitive rocks. No stone was observed <i>in situ</i> from the
+rapid until we came to the junction of the river with the Mackenzie.</p>
+
+<p>The Bear Lake River flows into the Mackenzie at a right angle, and on
+its north bank, at its mouth, there is a hill, which has been already
+noticed as forming part of a ridge visible from the one at the rapid,
+with which it probably unites to form a great basin. These two hills
+seem to belong to the same formation. <span class="sidenotel">61, 62,<br />60</span>The body of the hill
+consists of highly-inclined beds of blackish-gray limestone, with sparry
+veins, and of brownish-gray dolomite, which cannot be distinguished in
+hand specimens from that of the hill at the rapid. The superior beds are
+formed of a calcareous <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_278" id="Page_278">[Pg 278]</a></span>breccia.<a name="FNanchor_27_27" id="FNanchor_27_27"></a><a href="#Footnote_27_27" class="fnanchor">[27]</a> <span class="sidenotel">57,<br /> 58, 59,<br />63, 64,<br
+/>65</span>Associated with these strata, however, there are beds of limestone,
+highly charged with bitumen; and at the base of the hill there are beds
+of bituminous shale, some of which effervesce with acids, whilst others
+approach in hardness, and other characters, to flinty slate. These shaly
+beds were seen by Captain Franklin and Mr. Kendall in autumn 1825, and
+they also saw, at that time, some sulphureous springs and streams of
+mineral pitch issuing from the lower parts of the limestone strata: but
+the whole of them were hid by the height of the waters of the Mackenzie
+in the spring of 1826.<a name="FNanchor_28_28" id="FNanchor_28_28"></a><a href="#Footnote_28_28" class="fnanchor">[28]</a> <span class="sidenotel">69, 66,<br />67, 68</span>The same cause prevented me from
+seeing some beds of lignite and sandstone, at the same place, of which
+Captain Franklin obtained specimens.</p>
+
+
+<h4>LIGNITE FORMATION.&mdash;MACKENZIE'S RIVER.</h4>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Having</span> noticed the general features of this portion of the river, I have
+next to state, that the formation constituting its banks may be
+characterized as consisting of wood-coal in va<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_279" id="Page_279">[Pg 279]</a></span>rious states,
+alternating with beds of pipe-clay, potter's clay, which is sometimes
+bituminous, slate-clay, gravel, sand, and friable sandstones, and
+occasionally with porcelain earth. The strata are generally horizontal,
+and as many as four beds of lignite are exposed in some parts, the upper
+of which are above the level of the highest river-floods of the present
+day.</p>
+
+<p>The <i>lignite</i>, when recently detached from the beds, is pretty compact,
+but soon splits into rhomboidal pieces, which again separate into slates
+more or less fine. It burns with a very fetid smell, somewhat resembling
+that of phosphorus, with little smoke or flame, leaving a brownish-red
+ash, not one-tenth of the original bulk of the coal. The blacksmith
+found it unfit for welding iron when used alone, but it answered when
+mixed with charcoal, although the stench it created was a great
+annoyance. Different beds, and even different parts of the same bed,
+presented specimens of the fibrous brown-coal, earth-coal, conchoidal
+brown-coal, and trapezoidal brown-coal of Jameson. Some of the pieces
+have the external appearance of compact bitumen, but they generally
+exhibit, in the cross fracture, the fibrous structure of wood in
+concentric layers, apparently much compressed. Other specimens have a
+strong external resemblance to charcoal in structure, colour, and <span
+class="sidenoteln">48</span>lustre. A frequent form of the lignite is that of
+slate, of a dull, brownish-black colour, but yielding a shining streak.
+The slate is composed of fragments, resembling charred wood, united
+together by a paste of more comminuted woody matter, mixed, perhaps,
+with a small portion of clay. In the paste there are some transparent
+crystals of sulphate of lime, and occasionally some minute portions of a
+substance like resin. These shaly beds bear a strong resemblance to
+peat, not only in structure but also in the mode of burning, and in the
+light whitish ashes which are left. The external shape of stems or
+branches of trees, is best preserved in some fragments impregnated with
+slate-clay, and occasionally with siliceous matter, which occur imbedded
+in the coal. The bark of these pieces has been converted into lignite.
+Some of them exhibit knots, such as occur where a branch has decayed,
+and others represent the twists and contortions of wood of stunted
+growth. The lignite is generally penetrated by fibrous roots, probably
+<i>rhizomorpha</i>, which insinuate their ramifications into every crevice.</p>
+
+<p>The beds of lignite appear to take fire spontaneously when exposed to
+the atmosphere. They were burning when Sir Alexander Mackenzie passed
+down the river in 1789, and <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_280" id="Page_280">[Pg 280]</a></span>have been on fire, in some part or
+other of the formation, ever since. In consequence of the destruction of
+the coal, large slips of the bank take place, and it is only where the
+debris has been washed away by the river that good sections are visible.
+The beds were on fire when we visited them, and the burnt clays,
+vitrified sand, agglutinated gravel, &amp;c. gave many spots the
+appearance of an old brick-field.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenoteln">81</span>The <i>gravel</i> interstratified with the lignite, consists of smooth
+pebbles of Lydian stone, of flinty slate, of white quartz, of quartzose
+sandstone, and conglomerate, like the sandstones and conglomerates of
+the old red sandstone formation, of claystone, and of slate-clay,
+varying in size from a pea to that of an orange. The gravel is often
+intermixed with a little clay, which gives the bed sufficient tenacity
+to form cliffs, but does not prevent the pebbles from separating, in the
+attempt to break off hand specimens. It is seamed by thin layers of fine
+sand: beds of sandstone are of occasional occurrence.</p>
+
+<p><i>Potter's clay</i> occurs in thick beds, has generally a gray or brown
+colour, and passes, in some places, into a highly bituminous thick-slaty
+clay, penetrated by ramifications of carbonaceous matter resembling the
+roots of vegetables.</p>
+
+<p>The <i>pipe-clay</i> is deserving of particular notice. It is found in beds
+from six inches to a foot thick, and mostly in contact with the lignite.
+It has commonly a yellowish-white colour, but in some places its hue is
+light lake-red. The natives use it as an article of food in times of
+scarcity and it is said to have sustained life for a considerable time.
+It is termed <i>white mud</i> by the traders, who whitewash their houses with
+it. It occurs also in lignite deposits on the upper branches of the
+Saskatchewan, and is associated with bituminous shale on the coast of
+the Arctic Sea. Mr. Nuttall mentions a similar substance, under the name
+of pink-clay, as being found in the lignite deposits on the Arkansa.<a
+name="FNanchor_29_29" id="FNanchor_29_29"></a><a href="#Footnote_29_29" class="fnanchor">[29]</a></p>
+
+<p>The <i>porcelain earth</i> was observed only at one place where the beds were
+highly inclined, and there it appeared to replace the sandstones of
+other parts of the deposit. It has a whitish colour, and the appearance,
+at first sight, of chalk; but some of its beds, from the quantity of
+carbonaceous matter interspersed through them, having a grayish hue. Its
+beds are from two to three yards thick.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_281" id="Page_281">[Pg 281]</a></span>In a note<a name="FNanchor_30_30" id="FNanchor_30_30"></a><a href="#Footnote_30_30" class="fnanchor">[30]</a> I have mentioned the most remarkable sections of
+this formation which occur on the banks of the Mackenzie. <span class='pagenum'><a
+name="Page_282" id="Page_282">[Pg 282]</a></span>The depth of the formation was not
+ascertained, but the sections will show the thickness of the beds which
+were exposed. <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_283" id="Page_283">[Pg 283]</a></span>The height above the sea of the summit of the
+banks it forms on the Mackenzie, was estimated to be from two hundred
+and fifty to three hundred feet.</p>
+
+
+<h4>NOTICES OF OTHER LIGNITE FORMATIONS.</h4>
+
+<p>Similar formations of lignite occur near the foot of the Rocky Mountain
+range farther to the southward; but I have not, after many inquiries,
+heard of any traces of them in the eastern parts of the Hudson's Bay
+lands. Sir Alexander Mackenzie, after describing the general course of
+the Rocky Mountains, says that "along their eastern edge, there occurs
+a narrow strip of marshy, boggy, and uneven ground, which produces coal
+and bitumen;" and that "he saw these on the banks of the Mackenzie in
+lat. 66&deg;, and, in his second journey, on the Peace River, in lat.
+56&deg; and 146&deg; W. long.;" and further, that "the same was observed
+by Mr. Fidler, on the south branch of the Saskatchewan, in lat. 52&deg;
+long. 112&frac12;&deg; W." Mr. Alexander Stewart, an intelligent chief
+factor of the Hudson's Bay Company, and well acquainted with those
+countries, informs me that there are beds of coal on fire, on the
+Smoking River, or east branch of the Peace River, and on the upper parts
+of the <i>Rivi&egrave;re la biche</i>, or Elk River; and that coal, although
+not on fire, occurs at Lesser Slave Lake, on a line with the other two
+localities. Mr. Small, a clerk to the Hudson's Bay Company, likewise
+acquaints me, that coal occurs at Edmonton, on the north branch of the
+Saskatchewan, in beds, sometimes seven or eight feet thick. Most of the
+coal is thin-slaty; but some beds yield shining, thick lumps, which
+break, as he expresses it, like Spanish liquorice. It lies over beds of
+bluish-gray sandstone, and is associated with a white clay, which froths
+in water and adheres to the fingers.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_284" id="Page_284">[Pg 284]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Mr. Drummond brought specimens from the spot which Mr. Small alludes to
+and remarks, that the lignite occurs in beds from six inches to two feet
+thick, separated by clay and sandstones. <span class="sidenotel">1051, 1052, 1053</span>His specimens
+of the lignite are precisely similar to the slaty and conchoidal
+varieties, which occur at the mouth of the Bear Lake River; <span class="sidenotel">1055</span>and
+there is an equal resemblance betwixt the sandstones from the two
+places. <span class="sidenotel">1053</span>The slaty beds of lignite, at Edmonton, pass into a thin,
+slaty, friable sandstone, much impregnated by carbonaceous matter, and
+containing pieces of fibrous lignite. <span class="sidenotel">1056, 1062</span>In the neighbourhood of
+the lignite there are some beds of rather indurated, but highly
+bituminous shale, and the clayey banks contain clay-iron stones, in form
+of septaria. Mr. Drummond likewise found beds of a beautiful bituminous
+coal, which Professor Buckland, from its peculiar fracture, considers to
+be tertiary pitch-coal. The banks of the Saskatchewan, near the same
+place, exhibit beds of a very compact stone, having a brown colour, and
+inclosing many fragments of bituminous <span class="sidenotel">1058, 1059, 1060</span>limestone and
+some organic remains; likewise beds of a somewhat similar stone, but
+full of drusy cavities, and more resembling a recent calcareous tufa. I
+could not learn how far these beds were connected with the lignite
+deposit.</p>
+
+<p>Captain Franklin<a name="FNanchor_31_31" id="FNanchor_31_31"></a><a href="#Footnote_31_31" class="fnanchor">[31]</a> saw beds of lignite and tertiary pitch-coal at
+Garry's Island, off the mouth of the Mackenzie, and there is an
+extensive deposit of it near the Babbage River, on the coast of the
+Arctic Sea, opposite to the termination of the Richardson chain of the
+Rocky Mountains.</p>
+
+
+<h4>MACKENZIE RIVER FROM SLAVE LAKE TO THE BASE OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS.</h4>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Having</span> now described the strata in Bear Lake River, together with the
+exposed beds of the lignite at its mouth, as far as opportunities of
+observation enable me, and also added a slight account of similar
+formations which occupy a like situation at the foot of the Rocky
+Mountain range, were I to adapt the order of my notices strictly to the
+route of the expedition, I should next describe the banks of the
+Mackenzie from the junction of the Bear Lake River downwards to the
+Arctic Sea. It seems, however, more advisable to commence at the <span class='pagenum'><a
+name="Page_285" id="Page_285">[Pg 285]</a></span>origin of the Mackenzie, in Great
+Slave Lake, and give as connected a view as I can of the principal
+geological features of that great river.</p>
+
+<p>The west end of Slave Lake is bounded by horizontal strata of a
+limestone, whose characters shall be afterwards given in detail; and I
+have merely to remark, at present, that it forms flat shores, which are
+skirted by shoals of boulders of limestone, and of primitive rocks. Much
+drift timber is accumulated in the small bays at this end of the lake,
+which, in process of time, is converted into a substance like peat. A
+chain of islands extends obliquely across the lake at the origin of the
+river, or where the current is first felt; and the depth of the water
+there is less than six feet. Below this, there is a dilatation termed
+the <i>first little lake</i>, and the river afterwards contracts to less than
+a mile in breadth; forming in one place, when the water is low, a strong
+rapid. A second dilatation, about twenty-five miles below the first, is
+termed the <i>second little lake</i>. The shores throughout this distance are
+generally flat and covered with boulders of limestone, compact felspar,
+granite, gneiss, and sienite, and there are many of these stones
+imbedded in a tenacious clay, which forms the beach. A ridge, having an
+even outline, and apparently of small elevation, commences behind Stony
+Point, in Slave Lake, some distance inland, and, running nearly parallel
+to the river, disappears about Fishing River, a stream which joins the
+Mackenzie, below the Second Little Lake. The Horn Mountains, a ridge of
+hills, of considerably greater elevation, and having a more varied
+outline than that on the south shore, are first visible on the north
+side of the Second Little Lake, and continue in sight nearly as far as
+the junction of the "River of the Mountains," or "Forks, of the
+Mackenzie," as the traders term the union of the two rivers. <span class="sidenoteln"> 120<br />121</span>The
+only rocks seen <i>in situ</i> between Slave Lake and the Forks, were a
+bituminous shale of a brownish-black colour, in thin slates, and a
+slate-clay of a pure yellowish-gray colour, which, as well as the
+bituminous shale, forms steep banks.</p>
+
+
+<h4>ROCKY MOUNTAINS.</h4>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">About</span> twenty-five or thirty miles below the forks, the first view is
+obtained of the Rocky Mountains, which there appear to consist of
+short-conical peaks, scarcely rising two thousand feet above the river.
+Some distance lower down, the river, changing its course from W.N.W. to
+N.N.E., turns sharply round the mountains, which are there disposed in
+ridges, hav<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_286" id="Page_286">[Pg 286]</a></span>ing bases from one to two miles wide, and a direction
+of S.S.W. or S.W. by S. being nearly at right angles to the general
+course of the great range to which they belong. The eastern sides of the
+ridges present a succession of wall-sided precipices, having beneath
+them shelving acclivities formed by debris, and exhibiting on their
+faces regular lines of stratification. The western sides of the ridges
+are of more easy ascent. The vallies which separate these ridges and
+open successively to the river, are narrow, with pretty level bottoms,
+but very steep sides well clothed with trees. In the first ridge, the
+strata seemed to dip to the northward at an angle of 35&deg;. In some of
+the others they were horizontal, or had a southerly dip. The third ridge
+presents, when viewed from the westward, a magnificent precipice,
+seemingly about one thousand two hundred feet high, and which extends
+for at least fifteen miles. After passing this ridge, the river
+inclines to the eastward, and the forms of the hills are less
+distinctly seen.</p>
+
+<p>As I could not visit the Rocky Mountains, I know nothing of their
+structure except from report. An interpreter in the Hudson's Bay
+Company's service, who had travelled over them, informed me that there
+are fourteen or fifteen ridges, of which the three easternmost are the
+most rugged, those that succeed being broader and more rounded. <span class="sidenoteln">122</span>This
+man gave me a specimen of a pearl-gray semi-opal, resembling obsidian,
+brought from the third or fourth ridge. The natives, by means of fire,
+cause this stone to break off in thin, flat, conchoidal fragments, with
+which they form arrow-heads and knives. The thin pieces are nearly
+transparent on the edges. <span class="sidenoteln">123</span>He also gave me a specimen of plumbago,
+from the same quarter, and some specular iron.</p>
+
+<p>Mr. Macpherson, of the Hudson's Bay Company, in a letter respecting the
+Rocky Mountains, near <i>Fort au Liard</i>, on the River of the Mountains, or
+south branch of the Mackenzie, informs me, that "these mountains may be
+traced into somewhat uniform ranges, extending north-westerly and
+south-easterly, nearly parallel with the River of the Mountains, and are
+in appearance confusedly scattered and broken, rising here and there
+into high peaks." <span class="sidenotel">124, 125</span>This gentleman had the kindness to send me
+specimens of a cherty rock, some of which, he states, were from the
+third range westward from the river, and others from a spur which
+projects in a southern direction from the fourth range, and rises about
+six hundred feet above the adjacent valley. These specimens cannot be
+distinguished from those of Limestone Point, on the north shore of Great
+Bear Lake<a name="FNanchor_32_32" id="FNanchor_32_32"></a><a href="#Footnote_32_32" class="fnanchor">[32]</a>,<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_287" id="Page_287">[Pg 287]</a></span> Mounts Fitton and Conybeare, two remarkable peaks
+which terminate the Eastern range of the Rocky Mountains on the shores
+of the Arctic sea, were found by Captain Franklin to consist of
+transition rocks, of which an account is given in the subjoined note.<a
+name="FNanchor_33_33" id="FNanchor_33_33"></a><a href="#Footnote_33_33" class="fnanchor">[33]</a></p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_288" id="Page_288">[Pg 288]</a></span>Sir Alexander Mackenzie, towards the conclusion of the
+interesting narrative of his voyages, says, of the Rocky Mountain range,
+"The last line of division is, the immense ridge, or succession of
+ridges of the stony mountains, whose northern extremity dips in the
+Arctic Sea in latitude 70&deg; north, and longitude 135&deg; west,
+running nearly south-east, and begins to be parallel to the coast of the
+Pacific ocean from Cook's inlet, and so onwards to the Columbia. From
+thence it appears to quit the coast, but still continuing with less
+elevation to divide the waters of the Atlantic from those of the
+Pacific. In these <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_289" id="Page_289">[Pg 289]</a></span>snow-clad mountains rises the Mississippi, if
+we admit the Missouri to be its source, which flows into the Gulph of
+Mexico; the river Nelson which is lost in Hudson's Bay; Mackenzie's
+river that discharges itself into the North Sea, and the Columbia
+emptying itself into the Pacific Ocean. The breadth of the mountains
+from Cook's inlet to the Columbia is from four to eight degrees
+easterly." I may add, that the great rivers mentioned by Mackenzie not
+only take their origin from the same range of mountains, but almost from
+the same hill; the head waters of the Columbia and Mackenzie being only
+about two hundred yards apart in latitude 54&frac12;&deg;. Mr. Drummond,
+who crossed the mountains at that place, informs me, that the Eastern
+side of the range consists of conglomerate and sandstone, to which
+succeed limestone hills exceedingly barren, and afterwards clay-slate
+and granite.</p>
+
+<p>James, the intelligent naturalist, who accompanied Major Long on his
+first expedition, says of the Rocky Mountains to the southward of the
+Missouri, "They rise abruptly out of the plains which lie extended at
+their base on the east side, towering into peaks of great height, which
+renders them visible at the distance of more than one hundred miles from
+their base. They consist of ridges, knobs, and peaks, variously
+disposed, among which are interspersed many broad and fertile valleys.
+James's peak, one of the more elevated, was ascertained by
+trigonometrical measurement to rise 8500 feet above the common level.
+The rocky formations are uniformly of a primitive character, but a deep
+crust of secondary rocks appears to recline on the east side of the
+mountains, extending upwards from their base many hundred feet." In
+another place, he says, "The woodless plain is terminated by a range of
+naked and almost perpendicular rocks, visible at the distance of several
+miles, and resembling a vast wall parallel to the base of the mountain.
+These rocks are sandstone, and rise abruptly to an elevation of one
+hundred and fifty or two hundred feet." The sandstone walls seem to
+present an appearance not very dissimilar to some of the cliffs seen
+from the Mackenzie.</p>
+
+<p>Having thus mentioned as briefly as I could the extent of the
+information I was able to collect, respecting the Rocky Mountain range,
+I may remark, that a formation of primitive rocks, but little elevated
+above the general level of the country, appears to run from near the
+west end of Lake Superior, gradually and slightly converging towards the
+Rocky Mountains, until it attains the east side of Great Bear Lake. In
+lat. 50&deg;, the two ranges are nearly seven hundred miles apart, and
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_290" id="Page_290">[Pg 290]</a></span>there, and as far as lat. 60&deg;, the space between them is
+principally occupied by horizontal strata of limestone. There is also
+much limestone in the narrower interval north of 60&deg;, but the strata
+are more inclined, and form abrupt hills and ridges, particularly about
+lat. 66&deg;, where the primitive rocks on the east of Bear Lake are
+within two hundred miles of the Rocky Mountains. Sir Alexander Mackenzie
+has noticed that a chain of great lakes skirts this eastern range of
+primitive rocks, where they are approached by the flat limestone strata
+which lie to west of them. Thus the primitive rocks bound Great Slave
+Lake to the eastward of Slave River, and the flat limestone strata
+occupy the country westward of that lake, as has been already mentioned.</p>
+
+<p>After this digression, which seemed necessary for the purpose of giving
+a general idea of the structure of the country, I return to the
+description of the banks of the Mackenzie.</p>
+
+
+<h4>MACKENZIE RIVER FROM THE FIRST SIGHT OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS TO BEAR LAKE
+RIVER.</h4>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">At</span> the sharp turn of the river round the Rocky Mountains, its east bank
+swells gently into a hill several feet high. Below this the banks are
+broken into conical masses by ravines, and present a finely variegated
+outline. A pretty high ridge, looking like a continuation of the Horn
+Mountains, is visible on the east side some distance inland. Opposite to
+the Big Island there is a green hill three or four hundred feet high,
+which, as we descended the river, showed itself to be part of a range
+that had a direction apparently to the N.N.W., and towards its northern
+end became more rugged and craggy, exhibiting cliffs and rude
+embrasures, at the same time increasing in height to eight hundred or
+one thousand feet. The boulders on the beach change their character
+considerably about this place. Farther up, the yellowish-white limestone
+which occurs in Slave Lake formed a great portion of them; but here a
+greenish-gray, and rather dark-coloured, compact limestone, with a flat
+conchoidal fracture, replaces it. Variegated-sandstone, and some
+purplish, felspathose-sandstone, or compact felspar, also occur pretty
+frequently, together with slaty limestone, bituminous-shale,
+lydian-stone, pitchstone-porphyry, and various sienites, granites, and
+greenstones, almost all porphyritic.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_291" id="Page_291">[Pg 291]</a></span>The Rock by the river's side presents the first solid strata
+that occur on the immediate banks of the river after passing the Forks.
+It is a round bluff hill about five hundred feet high, with a short
+obtuse-conical summit. A precipice three hundred feet high, washed by
+the river, is composed of strata of limestone, dipping N.W. by W. at an
+angle of 70&deg;; but the strata in other parts of the hill have in
+appearance the saddle-formed arrangement. <span class="sidenoteln">127</span>The limestone is of a
+blackish-gray colour, slightly crystalline structure, and much resembles
+the stone of the principal beds in the hills at the rapid and mouth of
+Bear Lake River. Its beds are from one to two feet thick, and much
+intersected by small veins of calc-spar. There are also some larger
+veins a foot and a half thick, which traverse the strata obliquely,
+having their sides lined with calc-spar, and their centres filled with
+transparent gypsum. <span class="sidenoteln">128<br />127<br /><br />131<br />132</span>I observed a small imbedded pebble of
+white sandstone in the gypsum. Some of the beds of limestone consist of
+angular distinct concretions. A small island lying off this rock, having
+its strata dipping south at an angle of 20&deg;, presents a bed a foot
+thick, entirely composed of these angular concretions, covered by a
+thin-slaty limestone, and reposing on thicker beds, all of which are
+dark-coloured. No organic remains were observed.</p>
+
+<p>A few miles below the "Rock by the river side," a very rugged ridge
+appears on the eastern bank. It has sharp craggy summits, and is about
+five or six hundred feet high. For nearly sixty miles below this place
+the river continues about eight hundred yards wide, bounded by banks
+chiefly of clay; but in some places of a clayey shale having a bluish
+colour. The banks are in many places one hundred and fifty feet high,
+with a beach beneath covered with boulders. A little above the site of
+the Old Fort Norman the river dilates, and is full of islands; and a
+short way inland, on the east side, stands Clark's Hill, which is
+visible from Fort Franklin, and is supposed to be near 1500 feet high.
+It is shaped somewhat like the amphibolic-granite mountain of Criffel in
+Galloway, and in its immediate neighbourhood there are some less lofty,
+but very rugged and precipitous hills, resembling in outline the ridges
+of limestone on Bear Lake River. From this place to the commencement of
+the lignite formation, already described, the banks of the Mackenzie are
+high and clayey.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_292" id="Page_292">[Pg 292]</a></span></p> <h4>MACKENZIE RIVER FROM BEAR LAKE RIVER TO THE NARROWS.</h4>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Below</span> Bear Lake River the general course of the Mackenzie for eighty
+miles is about N.W. by W., when a remarkable rapid is produced by ledges
+of stone which cross its channel. The width of the river varies in this
+distance from one to three miles, but the water-course is narrowed by
+numerous islands, and the current continues strong. The Rocky Mountains
+are visible, running in a direction from S.E. to N.W. Judging merely by
+the eye, we did not estimate their altitude above four thousand feet,
+and I may remark, that the snow disappears from their summits early in
+the summer. A back view of the hill at the mouth of Bear Lake River is
+also obtained for upwards of twenty miles, but the ridge of which it
+forms a part curves inland, probably uniting, as was formerly remarked,
+with the one which crosses Bear Lake River near the middle of its
+course. The banks of the Mackenzie are in general from one hundred and
+twenty to one hundred and fifty feet high in this part, and there are
+occasional sections of them, but we had little leisure to examine their
+structure. In the voyage of 1826 we drifted down the stream night and
+day, landing only when necessary to cook our provisions; and in the
+following geological notices, as far as the passage of the river named
+the <i>Narrows</i>, I have done little more than describe the specimens
+collected by Captain Franklin, when he ascended the river by the
+tow-line in 1825. The few notes that the rapidity of our voyage
+permitted me to make, as to the direction of the strata, &amp;c., were
+inserted in the book that was purloined by the Esquimaux at the mouth of
+the river.</p>
+
+<p>About fifty miles below Bear Lake River there is an almost precipitous
+cliff of bituminous-shale, one hundred and twenty feet high, strongly
+resembling the cliffs which occur near the bases of the hill of
+Scented-Grass and Great Bear Mountain in Bear Lake already described<a
+name="FNanchor_34_34" id="FNanchor_34_34"></a><a href="#Footnote_34_34" class="fnanchor">[34]</a>, and at the mouth of the
+Clear Water River in lat. 56&frac12;&deg;. In the two former localities
+the shale is in the neighbourhood of horizontal strata of limestone; and
+in the latter it actually reposes on the limestone, which extends in
+horizontal strata as far as Great Slave Lake, is connected with many
+salt springs, and possesses many of the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_293" id="Page_293">[Pg 293]</a></span>characters ascribed to
+the zechstein formation. <span class="sidenoteln">133</span>Captain Franklin observed the beach under
+the shale cliffs of the Mackenzie to be strewed not only with fragments
+of the shale, but also with much lignite, similar to that which occurs
+at the mouth of the Bear Lake River. Twelve or fourteen miles below
+these cliffs there is a reach seventeen or eighteen miles long, bounded
+by walls of sandstone in horizontal beds. <span class="sidenoteln">134<br />135</span> Specimens obtained by
+Captain Franklin at the upper end of the reach consist of fine-grained
+quartzose sandstone<a name="FNanchor_35_35" id="FNanchor_35_35"></a><a href="#Footnote_35_35" class="fnanchor">[35]</a> of a gray colour, and having a clayey basis,
+resembling those which occur in the middle of Bear Lake River. At the
+commencement of the "Great Rapid of the Mackenzie" there is a hill on
+each side of the river, named by Captain Franklin the eastern<a
+name="FNanchor_36_36" id="FNanchor_36_36"></a><a href="#Footnote_36_36" class="fnanchor">[36]</a> and Western mountains of
+the Rapid. The Rocky Mountains appear at no great distance from this
+place, running about N.W. by W., until lost to the sight; and as the
+Mackenzie for forty or fifty miles below, winds away to the northward,
+and, in some reaches, a little to the eastward, they are not again
+visible, until the river has made a bend to the westward, and emerges
+from the defile termed "the Narrows."</p>
+
+<p>The "Eastern mountain of the rapid" seems to have a similar structure,
+with the "Hill by the River's side," the hill at the mouth of Bear Lake
+River, and the other limestone ridges which traverse this part of the
+country. <span class="sidenoteln">136</span>From some highly inclined beds near its base I broke off
+specimens of a limestone, having an imperfectly crystalline structure,
+and a brown colour, which deepens into dull black on the surfaces of its
+natural seams. A piece of dark-gray, compact limestone, having the
+peculiar structure<span class="sidenoteln">137<br />138</span> to which the name of "<i>cone in cone</i>" has been
+given, was found on the beach; also several pieces of chert, and some
+fragments <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_294" id="Page_294">[Pg 294]</a></span><span class="sidenoteln">139<br />141</span>of a trap-rock, consisting of pieces of
+greenstone, more or less iron-shot, cemented by calc-spar.</p>
+
+<p>Immediately below the rapid there are horizontal layers of sandstone
+which form cliffs, and also the bed of the river. Captain Franklin
+obtained specimens of this stone, which do not differ from the
+sandstones above the rapid. <span class="sidenoteln">142<br />143<br />140</span> And amongst the debris of the
+cliff he found other specimens of the "<i>cone in cone</i>," such as it
+occurs in the clayey beds of the coal measures, and also some pieces of
+crystallized pyrites.</p>
+
+<p>About forty miles below the rapid, the river flows through a narrow
+defile formed by the approach of two <span class="sidenoteln">144<br />144<span class="ss">a</span><br />145<br />146<br />147<br />144<span class="ss">b</span></span>lofty banks of
+limestone in highly-inclined strata, above which there is a dilatation
+of the river, bounded by the walls of sandstone, which have weathered,
+in many places, into pillars, castellated forms, caves, &amp;c. The
+sandstone strata are horizontal, have slate-clay partings, and seams of
+a poor clay-iron stone, but do not differ in general appearance from the
+sandstone beds at the rapid, except that a marly stone containing
+corallines, and having the general colour and aspect of the sandstone
+beds, is associated with them at this place.</p>
+
+<p>The very remarkable defile, below these sandstone beds, is designated
+"the <i>second rapid</i>" by Sir Alexander Mackenzie, and "the <i>ramparts</i>" by
+the traders, a name adopted by Captain Franklin. Mackenzie states it to
+be three hundred yards wide, three miles long, and to have fifty fathoms
+depth of water. If he is correct in his soundings, its bed is probably
+two hundred and fifty feet below the level of the sea. The walls of the
+defile rise from eighty to one hundred and fifty feet above the river,
+and the strata are inclined to the W.N.W., at an angle of seventy or
+eighty degrees. It is worthy of remark, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_295" id="Page_295">[Pg 295]</a></span>that the course of the
+river through this chasm is E.N.E., and that just above the eastern
+mountain of the rapid it runs about W.S.W. through the sandstone strata,
+as if it had found natural rents by which to make its escape through the
+ridge of hills which cross its course here. Similar elbows occur in
+various parts of the River, and they may be almost always traced to some
+peculiarity in the disposition of the hills which traverse the country.</p>
+
+<p>Captain Franklin gathered many specimens of the limestone strata of the
+Ramparts, which are specified in a note.<a name="FNanchor_37_37" id="FNanchor_37_37"></a><a href="#Footnote_37_37" class="fnanchor">[37]</a> <span class="sidenotel">148, 149</span>Some of the beds at
+the upper part of the Ramparts consist of a granular foliated limestone,
+which was not noticed elsewhere on the banks of the river, but the
+greater part are of limestone, strongly resembling that which has been
+already described, as forming the ridges in this quarter. Most of the
+beds are impregnated wholly, or in <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_296" id="Page_296">[Pg 296]</a></span>patches, with bitumen. Some
+of these specimens contain corallines and terebratul&aelig;; and at the
+lower end of the defile there are horizontal strata of limestone,
+covered by a thin layer of flinty slate.</p>
+
+<p>Below the <i>ramparts</i> the river expands to the width of two miles, and
+for a reach or two its banks are less elevated. In lat. 66&frac34;&deg;,
+about thirty miles from the ramparts, there are cliffs which Captain
+Franklin in his notes, remarks, "run on an E. by S. course for four
+miles, are almost perpendicular, about one hundred and sixty feet high,
+and present the same castellated appearances that are exhibited by the
+sandstone above the defile of the "ramparts." <span class="sidenotel">159, 160,<br />161, 162<br /><br />163,
+164,<br />165, 166<br /><br />167, 168,<br />169, 170</span>The cliffs<a name="FNanchor_38_38" id="FNanchor_38_38"></a><a href="#Footnote_38_38" class="fnanchor">[38]</a> are, in fact, composed of
+sandstones similar, in general appearance, to those which occur higher
+up the river; but some of the beds contain the quartz in coarser grains,
+with little or no cement. The beds are horizontal, and repose on
+horizontal limestone,<a name="FNanchor_39_39" id="FNanchor_39_39"></a><a href="#Footnote_39_39" class="fnanchor">[39]</a> from which Captain Franklin broke many
+specimens in 1825. We landed at this place in 1826 to see the junction
+of the two rocks, but the limestone was concealed by the high waters of
+the river. <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_297" id="Page_297">[Pg 297]</a></span>Captain Franklin's specimens are full of shells, many
+of which are identical with those of the flat limestone strata of the
+Athabasca River. <span class="sidenoteln">171</span> One bed appears to be almost entirely composed of a
+fine large species of terebratula, not yet described, but of which Mr.
+Sowerby has a specimen from the carboniferous limestone of Neho, in
+Norway. Some of the beds contain the shells in fragments; in others, the
+shells are very entire.</p>
+
+<p>About forty miles below these sandstone walls the banks of the river are
+composed of marl-slate, which weathers so readily, that it forms
+shelving acclivities. <span class="sidenoteln">172</span>In one reach the soft strata are cut by ravines
+into very regular forms, resembling piles of cannon shot in an arsenal,
+whence it was named <i>Shot-reach</i>.</p>
+
+<p>The river makes a short turn to the north below Shot Reach, and a more
+considerable one to the westward, in passing the present site of Fort
+Good Hope. The banks in that neighbourhood are mostly of clay, but beds
+of sandstone occasionally show themselves. The Indians travel from Fort
+Good Hope nearly due north, reach the summit of a ridge of land on the
+first night, and from thence following the course of a small stream they
+are conducted to the river <i>Inconnu</i>, and on the evening of the 4th day
+they reach the shores of Esquimaux Lake. Its water is brackish, the tide
+flowing into it. The neck of land which the Indians cross from Fort Good
+Hope is termed "isthmus" on Arrowsmith's map, from Mackenzie's
+information; and its breadth, from the known rate at which the Indians
+are accustomed to travel, cannot exceed sixty miles. The ridge is named
+the Carreboeuf, or Rein-deer Hills, and runs to lat. 69&deg;, forming a
+peninsula between the eastern channel of the Mackenzie and Esquimaux
+Lake.</p>
+
+<p>A small stream flows into the Mackenzie some way below Fort Good Hope,
+on the banks of which, according to Sir Alexander Mackenzie, the Indians
+and Esquimaux collect flints. He describes these banks as composed of "a
+high, steep, and soft rock, variegated with red, green, and yellow hues;
+and that, from the continual dripping of the water, parts of it
+frequently fall, and break into small, stony flakes, like slate, but not
+so hard. Amongst these are found pieces of petroleum, which bears a
+resemblance to yellow wax, but is more pliable." The flint he speaks of
+is most probably flinty-slate; but I do not know what the yellow
+petroleum is, unless it be the variety of alum, named rock-butter, which
+was observed in other situations, forming thin layers in bituminous
+shale.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_298" id="Page_298">[Pg 298]</a></span>About twenty miles below Fort Good Hope there are some sandstone
+cliffs,<a name="FNanchor_40_40" id="FNanchor_40_40"></a><a href="#Footnote_40_40" class="fnanchor">[40]</a> which Captain Franklin examined in 1825. <span class="sidenotel">173, 174</span>The
+sandstones are similar to those occurring higher up the river, but some
+of the beds contain small pieces of bituminous shale; and they are
+interstratified with thin layers of flinty-slate, and of flinty-state
+passing into bituminous shale. <span class="sidenotel">175, 176</span>The flinty-slate contains iron
+pyrites, and its layers are covered with a sulphureous efflorescence.
+Some of the beds pass into a slate-clay, which contains vegetable
+impressions, and some veins of clay-iron stone also appear in the cliff.</p>
+
+<p>Sixty miles below Fort Good Hope the river turns to the northward, and
+makes a sharp elbow betwixt walls of sandstone eighty or ninety feet
+high, which continue for fifteen or<span class="sidenotel">178<br />179<br /><br />180<br />181, 182<br />183</span> twenty miles.
+Captain Franklin named this passage of the river "The Narrows."<a
+name="FNanchor_41_41" id="FNanchor_41_41"></a><a href="#Footnote_41_41" class="fnanchor">[41]</a> The sandstones of the
+<i>Narrows</i> lie in horizontal beds, and have generally a dark gray colour.
+They are parted by thin slaty beds of sandstone, containing small pieces
+apparently of bituminous coal, and some casts of vegetables. Most of the
+beds contain scales of mica, and some of them have nodules of indurated
+iron-shot clay which exhibit obscure impressions of shells. A bed of
+imperfectly crystalline limestone was seen by Captain Franklin
+underlying the sandstones.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_299" id="Page_299">[Pg 299]</a></span></p> <h4>MACKENZIE RIVER BELOW "THE NARROWS."</h4>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">The</span> Mackenzie, on emerging from the Narrows, separates into many
+branches, which flow to the sea through alluvial or diluvial deltas and
+islands. The Rocky Mountains are seen on the western bank of the river,
+forming the boundary of those low lands; and the lower, but decided
+ridge, of the Rein-deer Hills holds nearly a parallel course on the east
+bank. The estuary lying between these two ranges, opens to the N.W. by
+N. into the Arctic Sea. I have already mentioned the specimens of rocks
+obtained at the few points of the Rocky Mountains that were visited,<a
+name="FNanchor_42_42" id="FNanchor_42_42"></a><a href="#Footnote_42_42" class="fnanchor">[42]</a> and therefore shall now
+speak only of the Rein-deer Hills. We did not approach them until we had
+passed for thirty miles down a branch of the river which winds through
+alluvial lands. At this place there are several conical hills about two
+hundred feet high, which appeared to consist of limestone. Specimens
+taken from some slightly-inclined beds near their bases, consisted of a
+fine-grained, dark, bluish-gray limestone. After passing these limestone
+rocks, the Rein-deer Hills were pretty uniform in appearance, having a
+steep acclivity with rounded summits. Their height, on the borders of
+the river, is about four hundred feet, but a mile or two inland they
+attain an elevation of perhaps two hundred feet more. Their sides are
+deeply covered with sand and clay, arising most probably from the
+disintegration of the subjacent rocks. <span class="sidenotel">184, 185</span>A section made by a
+torrent, showed the summit of one of the hills to be formed of gray
+slate-clay, its middle of friable gray sandstone much iron-shot, and its
+base of dark bluish-gray slaty clay. The sandstone predominates in some
+parts of the range, forming small cliffs, underneath which there are
+steep acclivities of sand. It contains nearly an equal quantity of black
+flinty slate, or lydian stone, and white quartz in its composition, and
+greatly resembles the friable sandstones of the lignite formation at
+the mouth of Bear Lake River. <span class="sidenoteln">186</span>In some parts the soil has a red colour
+from the disintegration of a reddish-brown slate-clay. <span class="sidenoteln">187</span>The summits of
+the hills that were visited were thinly coated with loose gravel,
+composed of smooth pebbles of lydian-stone, intermixed with some pieces
+of green felspar, white quartz, limestone, and chert. In some places
+almost <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_300" id="Page_300">[Pg 300]</a></span>all the pebbles were as large as a goose-egg, in others
+none of them exceeded the size of a hazel nut. The Rein-deer Mountains
+terminate in lat. 69&deg;, having previously diminished in altitude to
+two hundred feet, and the eastern branch of the river turns round their
+northern extremity. White spruce trees grow at the base of these hills
+as far as lat. 68&frac12;&deg;; north of which they become very stunted
+and straggling, and very soon disappear, none reaching to lat. 69&deg;.</p>
+
+<p>Sir Alexander Mackenzie, who, on his return from the sea, walked over
+these hills, says, "Though the country is so elevated, it is one
+continued morass, except on the summits of some barren hills. As I
+carried my hanger in my hand, I frequently examined if any part of the
+ground was in a state of thaw, but could never force the blade into it
+beyond the depth of six or eight inches. The face of the high land
+towards the river is, in some places, rocky, and in others a mixture of
+sand and stone, veined with a kind of red earth, with which the natives
+bedaub themselves." It was on the 14th of July that he made these
+observations. On the 5th of the same month, in a milder year, we found
+that the thaw had penetrated nearly a foot into the beds of clay at the
+base of the hills.</p>
+
+
+<h4>ALLUVIAL ISLANDS AT THE MOUTH OF THE MACKENZIE.</h4>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">The</span> space between the Rocky Mountains and Rein-deer Hills, ninety miles
+in length from lat. 67&deg; 40' to 69&deg; 10', and from fifteen to
+forty miles in width, is occupied by flat alluvial islands, which
+separate the various branches of the river. Most of these islands are
+partially or entirely flooded in the spring, and have their centres
+depressed and marshy, or occupied by a lake; whilst their borders are
+higher and well clothed by white spruce trees. The spring floods find
+their way, through openings in these higher banks, into the hollow
+centres of the islands, carrying with them a vast quantity of drift
+timber, which, being left there, becomes water-soaked, and, finally,
+firmly impacted in the mud. The young willows, which spring up rapidly,
+contribute much towards raising the borders of the stream, by
+intercepting the drift sand which the wind sweeps from the margin of the
+shallow ponds as they dry up in summer. The banks, being firmly frozen
+in spring, are enabled to resist the weight of the temporary floods
+which occur in that season, and before they are thawed the river has
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_301" id="Page_301">[Pg 301]</a></span>resumed its low summer level. The trees which grow on the
+islands terminate suddenly, in lat. 68&deg; 40'.</p>
+
+<p>I have already mentioned, that a large sheet of brackish water, named
+Esquimaux Lake, lies to the eastward of the Rein-deer Mountains, running
+to the southward, and approaching within sixty miles of the bend of
+Mackenzie's River at Fort Good Hope. This lake has a large outlet into
+Liverpool Bay, to the westward of Cape Bathurst, and there are many
+smaller openings betwixt that bay and Point Encounter, near the north
+end of the Rein-deer Hills, which are also supposed to form
+communications betwixt the lake and the sea. The whole coast-line from
+Cape Bathurst to the mouth of the Mackenzie, and the islands skirting
+it, as far as Garry and Sacred Islands, present a great similarity in
+outline and structure. They consist of extensive sandy flats, from which
+there arise, abruptly, hills of an obtuse conical form, from one to two
+hundred feet above the general level. Sandy shoals skirt the coast, and
+numerous inlets and basins of water divide the flat lands, and
+frequently produce escarpments of the hills, which show them to be
+composed of strata of sand of various colours, sometimes inclosing very
+large logs of drift timber. There is a coating of black vegetable earth,
+from six inches to a foot in thickness, covering these sandy hummocks,
+and some of the escarped sides appeared black, which was probably caused
+by soil washed from the summit.</p>
+
+<p>It is possible that the whole of these eminences may, at some distant
+period, have been formed by the drifting of moveable sands. At present
+the highest floods reach only to their bases, their height being marked
+by a thick layer of drift timber. When the timber has been thrown up
+beyond the reach of ordinary floods, it is covered with sand, and, in
+process of time, with vegetable mould. The <i>Elymus mollis</i>, and some
+similar grasses with long fibrous roots, serve to prevent the sand-hills
+from drifting away again. Some of the islands, however, consist of mud
+or clay. Captain Franklin describes Garry's Island as presenting cliffs,
+two hundred feet high, of black mud, in which there were inclined beds
+of lignite. <span class="sidenoteln">188</span>Specimens of this lignite have the same appearance with
+the fibrous wood-coal occurring in the formation at the mouth of Bear
+Lake River, and, like it, contain resin.<span class="sidenoteln">189<br />190</span> Imbedded in the same
+bank, there were large masses of a dark-brown calc-tuff, full of
+cavities containing some greenish earthy substance. Some boulders of
+lydian stone strew the beach. The cliffs of Ni<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_302" id="Page_302">[Pg 302]</a></span>cholson's Island
+also consisted of sand and mud, which, at the time of our visit, (July
+16th,) had thawed to the depth of three feet. This island rises four
+hundred feet above the level of the sea, and is covered with a thin
+sward of grasses and bents.</p>
+
+
+<h4>SEA-COAST.&mdash;BITUMINOUS ALUM SHALE.</h4>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">The</span> main land to the east of Nicholson's Island, as far as Cape
+Bathurst, presents gently swelling hills, which attain the height of two
+hundred feet at the distance of two miles from the beach, and the ground
+is covered with a sward of moss and grasses. At Point Sir Peregrine
+Maitland there are cliffs forty-feet high of sand and slaty clay, and
+the ravines are lined with fragments of whitish compact limestone,
+exactly resembling that which occurs in Lakes Huron and Winipeg, and
+which was afterwards seen forming the promontory of Cape Parry, bearing
+E.N.E. from this place. The beach, on the south side of Harrowby Bay,
+not far from Point Maitland, was thickly strewed with fragments of dark
+red and of white sandstone, together with some blocks of the
+above-mentioned limestone, and a few boulders of sienite.</p>
+
+<p>From Cape Bathurst the coast line has a S.E. direction, and is formed by
+precipitous cliffs, which gradually rise in height from thirty feet to
+six hundred. The beds composing these cliffs appear to be analogous to
+those of the alum-shale banks at Whitby, and similar to those which
+skirt the Scented-grass Hill and Great Bear Mountain, in Great Bear
+Lake. The Scented-grass Hill is distant from Cape Bathurst about three
+hundred miles, on a S.E. bearing, which corresponds, within a point,
+with the direction of the principal mountain chains in the country.
+<span class="sidenoteln">191</span>There is evidently a striking similarity in the form of the ground
+plan of these two promontories. At the extremity of Cape Bathurst the
+cliffs consist of slaty-clay, which, when dry, has a light bluish-gray
+colour, a slightly greasy feel, and falls down in flakes. The rain-water
+had penetrated the cliff to the depth of three yards from the summit;
+and this portion was frozen, on the 17th July, into an icy wall, which
+crumbled down as it thawed. On proceeding a little further along the
+coast, some beds were observed that possessed, when newly exposed to the
+air, tenacity enough to be denominated stone, but which, under the
+action of water, speedily softened into a tenacious bluish-clay.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_303" id="Page_303">[Pg 303]</a></span>At Point Traill we were attracted by the variegated colours of
+the cliff, and on landing found that they proceeded from<span class="sidenoteln">192<br />193<br />197<br />198<br />199</span>
+clays baked by the heat of a bed of bituminous-alum-shale which had been
+on fire. Some parts of the earth were still warm. The shale is of a
+brown colour and thin slaty structure, with an earthy fracture. It
+contains many interspersed crystals of selenite; between its lamina
+there is much powdery alum, mixed with sulphur, and it is traversed by
+veins of brown selenite, in slender prismatic crystals. The bed was much
+broken down, and hid by the debris of the bank, but parts in it was<span class="sidenoteln">200<br
+/>194<br />195<br />196</span> several yards thick, and contained layers of the
+wax-coloured variety of alum, named Rock-butter. The shale is covered by
+a bed of stone, chiefly composed of oval distinct concretions of a poor
+calcareous clay-iron stone. These concretions have a straight cleavage
+in the direction of their short axis, and are often coated by fibrous
+calc-sinter and calcedony. The upper part of the cliff is clay and sand
+passing into a loosely cohering sandstone. The strata are horizontal,
+except in the neighbourhood of ravines, or of consumed shale, when they
+are often highly inclined, apparently from partial subsidence. The
+debris of the cliff form declivities, having an inclination of from
+fifty to eighty degrees, and the burnt clays variously coloured, yellow,
+white, and deep red, give it much the appearance of the rubbish of a
+brick-field. The view of the interior, from the summit of the cliff,
+presents a surface slightly varied by eminences, which swell gently to
+the height of fifty or sixty feet above the general level. The soil is
+clayey, with a very scanty vegetation, and there are many small lakes in
+the country.</p>
+
+<p>Ten miles further on, the alum-shale forms a cliff two hundred feet
+high, and presents layers of the Rock-butter about two inches thick,
+with many crystals of selenite on the<span class="sidenoteln">201</span> surfaces of the slates. The
+summit of the cliff consists of a bed of marly gravel two yards thick,
+which is composed of pebbles of granite, sienite, quartz, lydian-stone,
+and compact limestone, all coated by a white powdery marl. The dip of
+the strata at this place is slightly to the northward.</p>
+
+<p>A few miles to the south-east of Wilmot Horton River the cliffs are six
+hundred feet high, and present acclivities having an inclination of from
+thirty to sixty degrees, formed of weathered slate-clay. Some beds of
+alum-shale are visible at the foot of these cliffs, containing much
+sulphate of alumina and masses of baked clay.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_304" id="Page_304">[Pg 304]</a></span>Two miles further along the coast the shaly strata were on fire,
+giving out smoke, and beyond this the cliffs become much broken but less
+precipitous, having fallen down in consequence of the consumption of the
+combustible strata. These ruined cliffs gradually terminated in green
+and sloping banks, whose summit was from one to two miles inland, and
+about six hundred feet above the sea level. Considerable tracts of level
+ground occurred occasionally betwixt these banks and the beach. Wherever
+the ground was cut by ravines, beds of slate-clay were exposed. On
+reaching the bottom of Franklin Bay, we observed the higher grounds
+keeping an E.S.E. direction until lost to the view, becoming, however,
+somewhat peaked in the outline.</p>
+
+
+<h4>SEA COAST.&mdash;LIMESTONE.</h4>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">Parry's</span> Peninsula, where it joins the mainland, is very low, consisting
+mostly of gravel and sand, and is there greatly indented by shallow
+bays, but it gradually increases in height towards Cape Parry. The bays
+and inlets are separated from the sea by beaches composed of rolled
+pieces of compact limestone; and which, although they are in places only
+a few yards across, are several miles in length. The northern part of
+Parry's Peninsula belongs entirely to a formation which appears from the
+mineralogical characters of the stone composing the great mass of the
+strata, and the organic remains observed in it, to be identical with the
+limestone formations of Lakes Winipeg and Huron.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenoteln">202<br />204</span>On the north side of Sellwood Bay, in lat. 69&deg; 42', cliffs
+about twenty feet high are composed of a fine-grained<a
+name="FNanchor_43_43" id="FNanchor_43_43"></a><a href="#Footnote_43_43" class="fnanchor">[43]</a> brownish dolomite, in
+angular distinct concretions, and containing corallines and veins of
+calc-spar. <span class="sidenoteln">203</span>In the same neighbourhood there is a bed of grayish-black
+compact luculite with drusses of calc-spar, very similar to the
+limestone which occurs in <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_305" id="Page_305">[Pg 305]</a></span>highly inclined strata at the "Rock by
+the River Side," on the Mackenzie, and in horizontal strata in an island
+near that rock, where it forms angular concretions.</p>
+
+<p>After passing Sellwood Bay, the north and east shores of Cape Parry, and
+the islands skirting them, present magnificent cliffs of limestone,
+which, from the weathering action of the waves of the sea, assume
+curious architectural forms. Many of the insulated rocks are perforated.
+Between the bold projecting cliffs of limestone there are narrow
+shelving beaches, formed of its debris, that afford access to the
+interior. The strata have generally a slight dip to the northward, and
+the most common Rock is a yellowish-gray dolomite which has a very
+compact structure, but presents some shining facets of disseminated
+calc-spar. This stone, which is not to be distinguished by its
+mineralogical characters from the prevailing limestone of Lake Winipeg,
+and at the passage of <i>La cloche</i> in Lake Huron, forms beds six or eight
+feet thick, and is frequently interstratified with a cellular limestone,
+approaching to chert in hardness, and exhibiting the characters of
+rauchwacke. In some parts, the rauchwacke is the predominating rock, and
+has its cells beautifully powdered with crystals of quartz or of
+calc-spar, and contains layers of chert of a milky colour. The chert has
+sometimes the appearance of calcedony, and is finely striped.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenotel">208, 209</span>The extremity of Cape Parry is a hill about seven hundred feet
+high, in which beds of brownish dolomite, impregnated with silica, are
+interstratified with a thin-slaty, gray limestone, having a compact
+structure.<a name="FNanchor_44_44" id="FNanchor_44_44"></a><a href="#Footnote_44_44" class="fnanchor">[44]</a> The vegetation is very scanty, and there are some spots
+covered with fragments of dolomite, on which there is not the vestige
+even of a lichen. Many large boulders of greenstone were thrown upon the
+N.W. point of Cape Parry. The islands in Darnley Bay, between Capes
+Parry and Lyon, are composed of limestone.<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_306" id="Page_306">[Pg 306]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<h4>SEA-COAST.&mdash;FORMATION OF SLATE-CLAY, SANDSTONE, AND LIMESTONE, WITH
+TRAP-ROCKS.</h4>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">From</span> Cape Lyon to Point Tinney, the rocks forming the coast-line are
+slate-clay, limestone, greenstone, sandstone, and calcareous
+puddingstone.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenoteln">214</span>Near the extremity of Cape Lyon the <i>slate-clay</i> predominates,
+occurring in straight, thin, bluish-gray layers, which are interspersed
+with detached scales of mica. <span class="sidenoteln">215</span>It sometimes forms thicker slates, that
+are impregnated with iron, and occurs alone, or interstratified in thin
+beds with a reddish, small-grained limestone. The strata, in general,
+dip slightly to the N.E., and form gently-swelling grounds, which at the
+distance of about fifteen miles to the southward terminate in hills,
+named the Melville Range. These hills are apparently connected with
+those which skirt the coast to the westward of Parry's Peninsula, have
+rather a soft outline, and do not appear to attain an altitude of more
+than seven or eight hundred feet above the sea. Ridges of naked
+trap-rocks, which traverse the lower country betwixt the Melville hills
+and the extremity of the Cape, rise abruptly to the height of one
+hundred or one hundred and fifty feet, and have, in general, an E.N.E.
+direction. When these trap ridges reach the coast, they form precipices
+which frequently have a columnar structure, and the nearly horizontal
+strata of slate-clay are generally seen underlying the precipices. In
+many places the softer clay strata are worn considerably away, and the
+columns of greenstone hang over the beach. Columns of this description
+occur at the north-eastern extremity of the Cape, and the slate-clay is
+not altered at its point of contact with the greenstone. The soil in
+this neighbourhood is clayey, and some small streams have pretty lofty
+and steep clayey banks; the shaly strata appearing only at their base. A
+better sward of grasses and carices exists at Cape Lyon, than is usual
+on those shores. Many boulders of greenstone and large fragments of red
+sandstone strew the beach.</p>
+
+<p>At Point Pearce, four or five miles to the eastward of Cape Lyon, a
+reddish, small-grained limestone forms perpendicular cliffs two hundred
+feet high, in which a remarkable cavern occurs. Near these cliffs the
+slate-clay and reddish limestone are interstratified, and form a bold
+rocky point, in which the strata dip to the N.E. at an angle of 20&deg;.
+The coast line be<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_307" id="Page_307">[Pg 307]</a></span>comes lower to the eastward, and at Point Keats
+a fine-grained, flesh-coloured sandstone occurs. This sandstone is
+quartzose, does not possess much tenacity, and is without any apparent
+basis.</p>
+
+<p>At Point Deas Thompson the limestone re-appears, having reddish-brown
+and flesh-red colours, and a splintery fracture. There are some
+beautiful Gothic arches formed in the cliffs there by the weathering of
+the strata.</p>
+
+<p>Five miles farther along the coast, near Roscoe River, the same kind of
+limestone forms cliffs twenty-five feet high, and is covered by thin
+layers of soft slate-clay. On the top of these cliffs we observed a
+considerable quantity of drift-timber and some hummocks of gravel. The
+spring tides do not rise above two feet. The Melville Range approaches
+within three miles of the coast there, and presents a few short conical
+summits, although the hills composing it are mostly round-backed.</p>
+
+<p>At Point De Witt Clinton, a compact blackish-blue limestone, traversed
+by veins of calc-spar, forms a bed thirty feet thick,<span class="sidenoteln">217<br />218<br />219</span> which
+reposes on thin layers of a soft, compact, light, bluish-gray limestone
+or marl. The cliffs at this place are altogether about seventy feet
+high, but their bases were concealed by accumulations of ice. Veins
+filled with compact and fibrous gypsum traverse the upper limestone.
+Naked and barren ridges of greenstone, much iron-shot, cross the country
+here, in the same manner as at Cape Lyon. The soil consists of gravel
+and clay; the former mostly composed of whitish magnesian limestone; and
+the vegetation is very scanty.</p>
+
+<p>At Point Tinney, in lat. 69&deg; 20', cliffs of a calcareous
+puddingstone, about forty feet high, extend for a mile along the coast.
+The basis, in most of the beds, is calc-spar; but in some small layers
+it is calcareous sand. The imbedded pebbles are smooth, vary in
+magnitude, from the size of a pea to that of a man's hand, and are
+mostly or entirely of chert, which approaches to calcedony, and, when
+striped, to agate in its characters. Perhaps, much of the gravel which
+covers the country is derived from the destruction of this conglomerate
+rock.</p>
+
+
+<h4>SEA COAST.&mdash;LIMESTONE.</h4>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">From</span> Point Clifton to Cape Hearne, the whole coast consists of a
+formation of limestone precisely similar to that which occurs on Lake
+Winipeg and Parry's Peninsula.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_308" id="Page_308">[Pg 308]</a></span>Dolomite, the prevailing rock in this formation, is generally in
+thin layers, and has a light smoke-gray colour, varying occasionally to
+yellowish gray, and buff. Its structure is compact, with little lustre,
+except from facets of disseminated calc-spar. It sometimes passes into
+milk-white chert, which forms beds. In some places the dolomite
+alternates with cellular limestone, which is generally much impregnated
+with quartz, and has its cavities powdered with crystals of that
+mineral. No organic remains were observed in the strata, but fragments,
+evidently derived from some beds of the formation, contained
+orthoceratites, like those of Lake Huron. The strata, though nearly
+horizontal, appear to crop out towards the north and east, forming
+precipices about ten feet high, facing in that direction, and running
+like a wall across the country. In many places, however, and
+particularly at Cape Krusenstern, the strata terminate in magnificent
+cliffs upwards of two hundred feet high, the country in the interior
+remaining level. Mount Barrow is a small hill of limestone, of a
+remarkable form, being a natural fortification surrounded by a moat. The
+coast line is indented by shallow bays, and skirted by rocks and
+islands.</p>
+
+<p>In the whole country occupied by this formation, the ground is covered
+with slaty fragments, sometimes to the depth of three feet or more.
+These slates appear to have been detached from the strata they cover, by
+the freezing of the water, which insinuates itself betwixt their layers.
+At Cape Bexley, the fragments of dolomite cover the ground to the
+exclusion of all other soil; and in a walk of several miles, I did not
+see the vestige of a vegetable, except a small green scum upon some
+stones that formed the lining of a pond which had dried up. In this
+neighbourhood there are a number of straight furrows a foot deep, as if
+a plough had been drawn through the loose fragments. After many
+conjectures as to the cause of this phenomenon, I ascertained that the
+furrows had their origin in fissures of the strata lying underneath.</p>
+
+<p>At the commencement of this formation between Point Tinney and Point
+Clifton, the coast is low, and a stream of considerable magnitude, named
+Croker River, together with many rivulets, flow into the sea. Its
+termination to the southward of Cape Hearne is also marked by a low
+coast line, which is bounded by the bold rocky hills of Cape Kendall.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_309" id="Page_309">[Pg 309]</a></span></p> <h4>FORMATION SIMILAR TO THAT AT CAPE LYON.</h4>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">The</span> beach between Cape Hearne and Cape Kendall is in some places
+composed of slate-clay, and of a clay resembling wacke. Many large
+boulders of greenstone occur there. Cape Kendall is a projecting rocky
+point, about five or six hundred feet high, and nearly precipitous on
+three sides, which are washed by the sea. On the north, its rocks
+consist entirely of greenstone, but on the south side of the Cape the
+greenstone in lofty columns reposes on thin-slaty beds of fine-grained,
+bluish-gray limestone. Back's Inlet presents on each side a succession
+of lofty precipitous headlands, which have the shape termed, by seamen,
+"the gunner's quoin." Most of the islands and points near the mouth of
+the Coppermine have this form, and are composed of trap rocks. <span class="sidenoteln">220</span>One of
+Cowper's islands on which we landed consists of beds of greenstone
+cropping out like the steps of a stair.</p>
+
+<p>A low ridge of greenstone exists at the mouth of the Coppermine river,
+and from thence to Bloody-fall, a distance of ten miles, the country is
+nearly level, with the exception of some low ridges of trap which run
+through it. The channel of the river is sunk about one hundred and fifty
+feet below the surrounding country, and is bounded by cliffs of
+yellowish white sand, and sometimes of clay, from beneath which, beds of
+greenstone occasionally crop out.</p>
+
+<p>At Bloody-fall, a round-backed ridge of land, seven or eight hundred
+feet high, crosses the country. It has a gentle ascent on the north, but
+is steep towards the south. The river at the fall makes its way through
+a narrow gap, whose nearly precipitous sides consist of tenacious clay,
+the bed and immediate borders of the stream being formed of
+greenstone.<a name="FNanchor_45_45" id="FNanchor_45_45"></a><a href="#Footnote_45_45" class="fnanchor">[45]</a> From thence to the Copper Mountains, gently undulated
+plains occur, intersected in various parts by precipitous ridges of trap
+rocks, and the river flows in a narrow chasm, sunk about one hundred
+feet below their level. A few miles above Bloody-fall, strata of light
+gray clay-slate, dipping to the north-east, at an angle of 20&deg;,
+support some greenstone cliffs on the banks <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_310" id="Page_310">[Pg 310]</a></span>of the river. <span class="sidenoteln">222<br
+/>223<br />224</span>From this place to the Copper Mountains the rocks observed in
+the ravines were a dark reddish-brown, felspathose sandstone, and gray
+slate-clay, in horizontal strata, with greenstone rising in ridges. The
+soil is sandy, and in many places clayey, with a pretty close grassy
+sward. Straggling spruce trees begin to skirt the banks of the river
+about eighteen or twenty miles from the sea.</p>
+
+
+<h4>COPPER MOUNTAINS.</h4>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">The</span> Copper Mountains rise perhaps eight or nine hundred feet above the
+bed of the river, and at a distance, present a somewhat soft outline,
+but on a nearer view they appear to be composed of ridges which have a
+direction from W.N.W. to E.S.E. Many of the ridges have precipitous
+sides, and their summits, which are uneven and stony, do not rise more
+than two hundred, or two hundred and fifty feet above the vallies, which
+are generally swampy and full of small lakes. The only rocks noticed
+when we crossed these hills on the late journey, were clay-slate,
+greenstone, and dark red sandstone, sometimes containing white
+calcareous concretions, resembling an amygdaloidal rock. On our first
+journey down the Coppermine River, we visited a valley where the Indians
+had been accustomed to look for native copper, and we found there many
+loose fragments of a trap rock, containing native copper, green
+malachite, copper glance, and iron-shot copper green; also trap
+containing greenish-gray prehnite with disseminated native copper,
+which, in some specimens was crystallized in rhomboidal dodecahedrons.
+Tabular fragments of prehnite, associated with calc-spar and native
+copper, were also picked up, evidently portions of a vein, but we did
+not discover the vein in its original repository. The trap-rock, whose
+fragments strewed the valley, consists of felspar, deeply coloured by
+hornblende. A few clumps of white spruce trees occur in the vallies of
+the Copper Mountains, but the country is in general naked. The
+Coppermine River makes a remarkable bend round the end of these hills.</p>
+
+<p>After quitting the Copper Mountains, and passing a valley occupied by a
+chain of small lakes in lat. 67&deg; 10', long. 116&deg; 45', we
+travelled over a formation whose prevailing rocks are spotted sandstone
+and conglomerate, and which forms the <i>height of land</i> betwixt Bear Lake
+and the Coppermine River. The <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_311" id="Page_311">[Pg 311]</a></span>ascent to this height from the
+eastward is gradual, but the descent towards Bear Lake is more rapid.
+The country is broken and hilly, though the height of the hills above
+the sea is perhaps inferior to that of the Copper Mountains. The vallies
+through which the small streams that water the country flow, are narrow
+and deep, resembling ravines, and their sides are clayey. The ground is
+strewed with gravel.</p>
+
+<p>The <i>sandstone</i> has very generally a purplish colour, with gray spots of
+various magnitudes. It is fine grained, hard, has a somewhat vitreous
+lustre and contains little or no disseminated mica.</p>
+
+<p>The <i>conglomerate</i> consists of oval pebbles of white quartz, sometimes
+of very considerable magnitude, imbedded in an iron-shot cement. Many of
+the pebbles appear as if they had been broken and firmly re-united
+again. The conglomerate passes into a coarse sandstone.</p>
+
+<p>Porphyry and granite form hills amongst the sandstone strata.</p>
+
+<p>The <i>porphyry</i> has a compact basis, like hornstone, of a dull brown
+colour, which contains imbedded crystals of felspar and quartz, and
+occasionally of augite. It forms some dome-shaped and short conical
+hills.</p>
+
+<p>The <i>granite</i> is disposed in oblong ridges, with small mural precipices.
+It has, generally, a flesh-red colour, and contains some specks of
+augite, but little or no mica. The granite and porphyry were observed
+only on the east side of the height of land, the brow of which, and its
+whole western declivity, is formed of sandstone. Boulders of granite and
+porphyry, precisely similar to the varieties which occur <i>in situ</i> on
+the height of land, are common on the beach at Fort Franklin, and on the
+banks of the Mackenzie above Bear Lake.</p>
+
+<p>To the westward of the height of land, the country on the banks of Dease
+River is more level, and few rocks <i>in situ</i> were seen, until within
+five or six miles of Bear Lake, where the stream flows through a chasm,
+whose sides are composed of a soft, fine-grained red sandstone, like
+that which occurs in the vale of Dumfries, in Scotland. Several ravines
+here have their sides composed of fine sand, inclosing fragments of soft
+sandstone.</p>
+
+<p>About three miles from the mouth of Dease River we came to a limestone
+formation, which has been already noticed in the account of the
+geological structure of the shores of Great Bear Lake.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_312" id="Page_312">[Pg 312]</a></span></p> <h4>EASTERN CHAIN OF PRIMITIVE ROCKS.</h4>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">The</span> preceding part of the paper describing the rock formations which
+were noticed on the route of the expedition from Great Slave Lake down
+the Mackenzie along the shores of the Arctic Sea, the Coppermine, Great
+Bear Lake, and Great Bear River, being a distance of three thousand
+miles, I shall, by way of supplement, mention very briefly some of the
+more southern deposits.</p>
+
+<p>The first I have to speak of is the chain of primitive rocks to which I
+have alluded in page 289, as extending for a very great distance in a
+north-west direction, and inclining in the northern parts slightly
+towards the Rocky Mountain Chain. Dr. Bigsby, in his account of the
+geology of Lake Huron says, that "The primitive rocks on the northern
+shores of that lake are part of a vast chain, of which the southern
+portion, extending probably uninterruptedly from the north and east of
+Lake Winipeg, passes thence along the northern shores of Lakes Superior,
+Huron, and Simcoe, and after forming the granitic barrier of the
+Thousand Isles, at the outlet of Lake Ontario, spreads itself largely
+throughout the state of New York, and there joins with the Alleghanies,
+and their southern continuations." It is not my intention to say any
+thing further of the rocks in the districts of which Dr. Bigsby speaks,
+although in travelling from the United States to Lake Winipeg the
+expedition passed over them. That zealous geologist has already given,
+in various publications, many interesting and accurate details of the
+formations on the borders of the great lakes; an account of those which
+lie some degrees farther to the north is inserted in the second volume
+of the Geological Transactions,&mdash;and there are some notices of them
+in the Appendix to the narrative of Captain Franklin's First Journey. My
+object at present is, merely to trace the western boundary of the
+primitive rocks in their course through the more northerly parts of the
+American continent.</p>
+
+<p>I have already quoted Sir Alexander Mackenzie's original and important
+remark, of the principal lakes in those quarters being interposed
+betwixt the primitive rocks and the secondary strata, lying to the
+westward of them&mdash;Lake Winipeg is an instance in point. It is a
+long, narrow lake, and is bounded throughout on its east side by
+primitive rocks, mostly granitic, whilst its more indented western shore
+is formed of hori<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_313" id="Page_313">[Pg 313]</a></span>zontal limestone strata. The western boundary
+of the primitive rocks, extending on this lake about two hundred and
+eighty miles, has nearly a north-north-west direction. From Norway
+Point, at the north end of the lake, to Isle &agrave; la Crosse, a
+distance of four hundred and twenty miles in a straight line, the
+boundary has a west-north-west direction. For two hundred and forty
+miles from Isle &agrave; la Crosse to Athabasca Lake, the course of the
+primitive rocks is unknown to me; but from Athabasca Lake to M'Tavish's
+Bay, in Great Bear Lake, a distance of five hundred miles, their western
+edge runs about north-west-by-west, and is marked by the Slave River, a
+deep inlet on the north side of Great Slave Lake, and a chain of rivers
+and lakes, (including great Marten Lake,) which discharge themselves
+into that inlet.</p>
+
+<p>Captain Franklin on his voyage crossed this primitive chain nearly at
+right angles to its line of direction, in proceeding from Hudson's Bay
+to Lake Winipeg&mdash;it was there two hundred and twenty miles wide.</p>
+
+<p>The hills composing the chain are of small elevation, none of them
+rising much above the surrounding country. They have mostly rounded
+summits, and they do not form continuous ridges; but are detached from
+each other, by vallies of various breadth, though generally narrow, and
+very seldom level. The sides of the hills are steep, often precipitous.
+When the vallies are of considerable extent, they are almost invariably
+occupied by a lake, the proportion of water in this primitive district
+being very great; from the top of the highest hill on the Hill River,
+which has not a greater altitude than six hundred feet, thirty-six lakes
+are said to be visible. The small elevation of the chain may be inferred
+from an examination of the map, which shows that it is crossed by
+several rivers, that rise in the Rocky Mountains, the most considerable
+of which are the Churchill and the Saskatchewan, or Nelson River. These
+great streams have, for many hundred miles from their origin, the
+ordinary appearance of rivers, in being bounded by continuous parallel
+banks; but on entering the primitive district, they present chains of
+lake-like dilatations, which are full of islands, and have a very
+irregular outline. Many of the numerous arms of these expansions wind
+for miles through the neighbouring country, and the whole district bears
+a striking resemblance, in the manner in which it is intersected by
+water, to the coast of Norway and the adjoining part of Sweden. The
+successive dilatations of the rivers have scarcely any current, but are
+connected to each other by one or more <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_314" id="Page_314">[Pg 314]</a></span>straits, in which the
+water-course is more or less obstructed by rocks, and the stream is very
+turbulent and rapid. The most prevalent rock in the chain is gneiss; but
+there is also granite and mica-slate, together with numerous beds of
+amphibolic rocks.</p>
+
+
+<h4>LIMESTONE OF LAKE WINIPEG.</h4>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">To</span> the westward of the chain of primitive rocks, through a great part,
+if not through the whole of its course, lies an extensive horizontal
+deposit of limestone.</p>
+
+<p>Dr. Bigsby, in the Geological Transactions, has described, in detail,
+the limestone of Lake Huron, and is disposed to refer "the cavernous and
+brecciated limestone of Michilimackinac to the magnesian breccia, which
+is in England connected with the red marl;" whilst the limestones of St.
+Joseph, and the northern isles, he considers as more resembling the
+well-known formation of Dudley, in Staffordshire. The limestone of
+Thessalon Isle, in which there occurs the remarkable species of
+orthoceratite which he has figured, he describes as decidedly magnesian.
+I observed this orthoceratite in the limestone strata of one of the
+isles forming the passage of La Cloche in Lake Huron. The limestone
+deposits of Lake Winipeg and Cape Parry exactly resemble that of La
+Cloche in mineralogical characters, and in containing the same
+orthoceratite which was also found by Captains Parry and Lyon at
+Igloolik.</p>
+
+<p>The colour of the limestone of Lake Winipeg is very generally
+yellowish-white, passing into buff, on the one hand, and into ash-gray
+on the other. A reddish tinge is also occasionally observed. Much of it
+has a flat fracture, with little or no lustre, and a fine-grained
+arenacious structure. A great portion of it, however, is compact, and
+has a flat conchoidal and slightly splintery fracture. This variety
+passes into a beautiful china-like chert. <span class="sidenotel">1001, 1014</span>Many of the beds are
+full of long, narrow vesicular cavities, which are lined sometimes with
+calc-spar, but more frequently with minute crystals of quartz. The beds
+of this formation seldom exceed a foot in thickness, and are often very
+thin and slaty. The arenacious and cherty varieties frequently occur in
+the same bed; sometimes they form distinct beds. The softer kinds
+weather readily into a white marl, which is used by the residents to
+whitewash their houses. Wherever exten<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_315" id="Page_315">[Pg 315]</a></span>sive surfaces of the
+strata were exposed, as in the channels of rivers, they were observed to
+be traversed by rents crossing each other at various angles. The larger
+rents, which were sometimes two yards or more in width, were however,
+generally parallel to each other for a considerable distance.</p>
+
+<p>Professor Jameson enumerates <i>terebratul&aelig;</i>, <i>orthoceratites</i>,
+<i>encrinites</i>, <i>caryophyllit&aelig;</i>, and <i>lingul&aelig;</i>, as the organic
+remains in the specimens brought home by Captain Franklin on his first
+expedition. Mr. Stokes and Mr. James De Carle Sowerby have examined
+those which we procured on the last expedition, and found amongst them
+<i>terebratulites</i>, <i>spirifers</i>, <i>maclurites</i>, and <i>corallines</i>. The
+maclurites belonging to the same species, with specimens from Lakes Erie
+and Huron, and also from Igloolik, are perhaps referrible to the
+<i>Maclurea magna</i> of Le Sueur. <span class="sidenoteln">1015<br />1019</span> Sowerby determined a shell,
+occurring in great abundance in the strata at Cumberland-house, about
+one hundred and twenty miles to the westward of Lake Winipeg, to be the
+<i>Pentamerus Aylesfordii</i>.</p>
+
+<p>The extent to the westward of the limestone deposit of Lake Winipeg is
+not well known to me; but I have traced it as far up the Saskatchewan as
+Carlton House, and its breadth there is at least two hundred and eighty
+miles. For about one hundred miles below Carlton House, the river
+Saskatchewan flows betwixt banks from one to two hundred feet in height,
+consisting of clay or sand, and the beds of limestone are exposed in
+very few places. The plains in the neighbourhood of Carlton abound in
+small lakes, some of which are salt. The country which the Saskatchewan
+waters for one hundred and ninety miles before it enters Lake Winipeg,
+is of a different kind. It is still more flat than that about Carlton,
+and is so little raised above the level of the river, that in the
+spring-floods the whole is inundated, and in several places the river
+sends off branches which reunite with it after a course of many miles.
+In this quarter the soil is generally thin, and the limestone strata are
+almost every where extensively exposed. To the southward of Cumberland
+House, the Basquiau Hill has considerable elevation. I had not an
+opportunity of visiting it; but in the flat limestone strata, near its
+foot, there are salt springs, from which the Indians sometimes procure a
+considerable quantity of salt by boiling; and there are several
+sulphureous springs within the formation.</p>
+
+<p>I observed no beds of conglomerate in it, and no sandstone associated
+with it; but the extensive plains which lie betwixt <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_316" id="Page_316">[Pg 316]</a></span>Carlton
+House and the Rocky Mountains are sandy, and beds of sandstone are said
+to be visible in some of the ravines.</p>
+
+<p>The line of contact of the limestone with the primitive rocks of Lake
+Winipeg, is covered with water; but at the Dog's-Head, and near the
+north end of Beaver Lake, they are exposed within less than a mile of
+each other. To the southward of the Dog's-Head in Lake Winipeg, and in a
+few other quarters, some schistose rocks, belonging to the transition
+series, are interposed between the two formations.</p>
+
+<p>Before quitting the formations of Lake Winipeg, I may remark, that the
+height of that lake above the sea is perhaps equal to that of Lake
+Superior, which is eight hundred feet.</p>
+
+
+
+<h4>LIMESTONE OF THE ELK AND SLAVE RIVERS.</h4>
+
+<p><span class="smcap">The</span> next formation I have to mention is one which appears to possess
+most of the characters ascribed by German geologists to the zechstein.
+It extends from the north side of the Methy carrying-place down the
+Clearwater, Elk, and Slave Rivers, and along the south shore of Great
+Slave Lake to the efflux of the Mackenzie. The line I have traced was
+the route of the expedition, and is also very nearly that of the eastern
+boundary of the limestone. Primitive rocks occur in Lake Mammawee,
+Athabasca Lake, and on the Stony River; and on several parts of the
+Slave River they are separated from the limestone only by the breadth of
+the stream. On Great Slave Lake, the Stony Island, on the north-east
+side of the mouth of Slave River, is composed of granite, whilst the
+limestone strata are exposed at Fort Resolution on the south-west side.</p>
+
+<p>The limestone in this extensive tract is commonly in thin and nearly
+horizontal beds, and much of it exactly resembles in mineralogical
+characters the dolomite and chert of Lake<span class="sidenotel">1027, 1028</span> Winipeg. It is
+interstratified with thin beds of soft white marl; and in a few places
+with a marly sandstone. Extensive beds of stinkstone also occur, and
+many beds of limestone containing fluid bitumen in cavities. The bitumen
+is in such quantity, in some quarters, as to flow in streams from
+fissures in the rock; and in an extensive district, around Pierre au
+Calumet on the Elk River, slaggy mineral pitch fills the crevices in the
+soil, and may be collected in large quantities by digging a well.</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_317" id="Page_317">[Pg 317]</a></span>A calcareous breccia also exists in various places, particularly
+on the Slave River. Springs depositing from their waters sulphur, and
+sulphate of lime, slightly mixed with sulphate of magnesia, muriate of
+soda, and iron, are common and copious. A few miles to the westward of
+the Slave River, there is a ridge of hills several miles long, and about
+two hundred feet high, having several beds of compact, grayish gypsum
+exposed on its sides. From the base of this hill there issue seven or
+eight very copious, and many smaller springs, whose waters deposit a
+great quantity of very fine muriate of soda by spontaneous evaporation.
+The collected rivulets from these springs form a stream which is, at its
+junction with the Slave River, sixty yards wide and eight or ten feet
+deep.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenotel">1020 to 1026</span>The organic remains, in this deposit, according a list
+kindly furnished by Mr. Sowerby, consist of <i>spirifers</i>, <span class="sidenotel">1029 to 1032</span>one
+of which is the <i>spirifer acuta</i>; several new <i>terebratul&aelig;</i>, of
+which one resembles the <i>T. resupinata</i>, a <i>cirrus</i>, some crinoidal
+remains, and corals.</p>
+
+<p>At the union of Clearwater and Elk Rivers, the limestone beds are
+covered to the depth of one hundred and fifty feet with bituminous
+shale.</p>
+
+<p>I have stated, that on Slave River this limestone formation succeeds
+immediately to primitive rocks, but I am not acquainted with the rocks
+that lie to the eastward of it on the Elk River. The traders report that
+there are extensive deposits of sandstone on the eastern arm of the
+Athabasca Lake, and, perhaps, these sandstones extend nearly to
+Clearwater River. Sand covers the limestone on that river to the depth
+of eight or nine hundred feet, and the fragments of sandstone in it are
+large, numerous, and not worn.</p>
+
+<p>The quantity of gypsum in immediate connection with extremely copious
+and rich salt springs, and the great abundance of petroleum in this
+formation, together with the arenacious, soft, marly, and brecciated
+beds interstratified with the dolomite, and above all, the circumstance
+of the latter being by far the most common and extensive rock in the
+deposit, led me to think that the limestone of the Elk and Slave Rivers
+was equivalent to the zechstein of the continental geologists. My
+opinion, however, on this subject is, from a total want of practical
+acquaintance with the European rock formations, of little weight; and
+several eminent geologists are, after an examination of the organic
+remains and mineralogical characters of the specimens brought home,
+inclined to consider the formation <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_318" id="Page_318">[Pg 318]</a></span>as analogous to the
+carboniferous or mountain-limestone of England.</p>
+
+<p>As to the limestone formation of Lake Winipeg, I have no doubt of its
+identity with that occurring in the islands at the passage of La Cloche,
+in Lake Huron, and also with that at Cape Parry and at Cape Krusenstern,
+on the coast of the Arctic Sea. It is probable, also, that these four
+deposits belong to the same epoch with the limestone of Elk and Slave
+Rivers, although they differ in containing little or no petroleum. It is
+proper to mention, however adverse it may be to the opinion I have
+ventured to hint at above, of these extensive horizontal deposits of
+limestone being referable to the zechstein, that the limestone of Lake
+Huron is generally considered as belonging to the mountain-limestone;
+and Professor Jameson, from a review of the organic remains occurring in
+the Lake Winipeg deposit, considered that it also belonged to that
+formation. The formation of Cape Lyon may be, with less danger of a
+mistake, referred to the transition or mountain-limestone.</p>
+
+<h6>THE END.</h6>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> <a href="images/319full.png"><img src="images/319thumb.png" width="400" height="407" alt="Map of
+North America" title="" /></a> </div>
+
+<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTES:</h3>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_20_20" id="Footnote_20_20"></a><a href="#FNanchor_20_20"><span class="label">[20]</span></a>This was estimated by allowing one foot descent per mile for Bear
+Lake River, whose length is seventy miles; and three inches per mile for
+the descent of Mackenzie River, from the junction of the former river to
+the sea, being a distance of five hundred miles.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_21_21" id="Footnote_21_21"></a><a href="#FNanchor_21_21"><span class="label">[21]</span></a> In our former journey, we sounded near the Rein-Deer Islands in
+Slave Lake, with sixty-five fathoms line, without reaching the bottom.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_22_22" id="Footnote_22_22"></a><a href="#FNanchor_22_22"><span class="label">[22]</span></a> Section of the cliffs at Limestone Point&mdash;strata dipping to
+the N.N.W.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> <img src="images/267.png" width="400" height="95" alt="" title="" /> </div>
+
+<p>In the section the strata are represented much more inclined than they
+really are.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">231 Fine-grained, nearly compact, yellowish-gray dolomite, forming the
+summit of the hill, but the first, or lowest stratum, in the language of
+geologists.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">232 Compact, splintery dolomite, with a conchoidal fracture, and
+wax-yellow colour&mdash;second stratum.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">233 A cherty dolomite; containing calc-spar&mdash;third stratum.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">234 Bluish-gray dolomite, traversed by calc-spar&mdash;is nearly
+compact, and has an uneven, splintery fracture&mdash;forms the uppermost
+portion of the fourth stratum.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">235 Talcose? limestone, having a curved slaty structure, and containing
+cherty portions&mdash;from the lower part of the fourth stratum.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">236, 237 Earthy greenstone? forms the fifth stratum.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">238 Brownish-red dolomite, with an uneven fracture; scarcely splintery.
+It has a compact structure, and is intersected by veins of
+calc-spar&mdash;from the sixth stratum.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">239 Light yellowish gray dolomite, passing into chert&mdash;seventh
+stratum.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">240, 241 Thin slaty beds of brownish-red dolomite, like 238&mdash;eighth
+stratum.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">242 Bluish-white porcelain chert, sometimes mixed with red
+dolomite&mdash;243&mdash;ninth stratum.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_23_23" id="Footnote_23_23"></a><a href="#FNanchor_23_23"><span class="label">[23]</span></a><i>List of boulders gathered on the beach at Fort Franklin.</i></p>
+
+<p class="hang">261 Coarse crystalline granite; felspar flesh-red in large crystals;
+quartz gray; mica black.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">262 Granite; felspar paler, and less distinctly crystallized; quartz in
+small quantity, gray; mica blackish, and rather abundant.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">263 Granite; felspar partly reddish, partly yellowish-white, quartz in
+small grains; mica equalling the quartz in quantity, black.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">264 Granite, fine-grained: quartz and felspar, white, the former nearly
+transparent, black; mica in small specks, garnets.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">265, 268 Granite; quartz in regular crystals; mica blackish, in small
+quantity.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">266 Granite? red felspar in large crystals; quartz gray; mica replaced
+by chlorite?</p>
+
+<p class="hang">267 Granite; felspar gray; chlorite? in small quantity.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">269 Granite, small grained, passing into gneiss; reddish-brown felspar
+and gray quartz, intimately mixed, and having in the aggregate, a
+vitreous lustre; mica in layers.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">270 Granite coarser grained than the preceding, containing more quartz;
+the mica disseminated.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">271, 273 Granite with little mica, some portions of the felspar tinged
+green.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">272, 274, 275, 277, 278, 279, 280, Granite grayish and small grained
+mica black.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">276 Granite; brick-red felspar; quartz; and augite?&mdash;no mica.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">The mica is mostly black in all the granite boulders that occur here, the
+felspar most frequently reddish.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">281 Porphyritic granite? felspar imperfectly crystallized, containing
+large, imbedded crystals; quartz; and chlorite?</p>
+
+<p class="hang">282 Granite? composed of felspar, of quartz, with, perhaps, a few minute
+grains of chlorite?</p>
+
+<p class="hang">283 Granite? contains little quartz, and a few scales of mica, with some
+chlorite?</p>
+
+<p class="hang">284 Sienite; felspar somewhat granular, a little quartz and chlorite?</p>
+
+<p class="hang">285 Porphyritic sienite? having a basis of slightly granular felspar,
+with light-coloured crystals of felspar, some quartz and disseminated
+grains of chlorite?</p>
+
+<p class="hang">286 Reddish-brown hornstone porphyry.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">287 Crystalline greenstone.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">288 Fine-grained greenstone.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">289 Porphyritic greenstone.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">290 Pitchstone porphyry.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">291 Greenstone slate with pyrites.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">292 Amygdaloidal claystone porphyry.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">293 Compact grayish-blue dolomite.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">294 Splintery dolomite.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">295 Cellular dolomite.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">296 Swinestone.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">297 Limestone with corallines.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">298 Chert.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">299 White quartz.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">300 Quartz-rock.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">301 Coarse sandstone.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">302 Fine-grained white sandstone.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">303 Fine-grained red sandstone.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">304 Fine-grained striped sandstone.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">305 Fine-grained spotted sandstone.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">306 Slaty sandstone verging towards slate-clay.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">307 Dark-red claystone.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">308 Light-coloured claystone.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_24_24" id="Footnote_24_24"></a><a href="#FNanchor_24_24"><span class="label">[24]</span></a><i>List of Specimens from Diluvial Gravel, Fort Franklin</i>.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">1 Amphibolic granite, rather coarse crystalline, felspar flesh-red.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">2 Ditto, approaching to gneiss.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">3 Gneiss approaching to mica-slate, felspar white, and in small
+quantity.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">4 Greenstone with much felspar and minute disseminated pyrites.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">5 Quartz rock? having brownish and imperfect crystals, and a reddish
+disintegrated mineral disseminated.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">6 Brownish-red and fine granular quartz-rock, with a somewhat splintery
+fracture. It has the aspect of compact felspar.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">7 Quartz rock, reddish crystalline texture, and vitreous lustre, but
+with small rounded grains imbedded in it, bringing it near to sandstone.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">8 Coarse sandstone; rounded grains of quartz united by a clayey basis.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">9 Fine-grained purplish sandstone, with grayish spots. This sandstone
+occurs <i>in situ</i> near the Copper Mountains, between Dease Bay and the
+Coppermine River.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">10 Fine-grained yellowish-white sandstone.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">11 Yellowish-gray sandstone, composed of small rounded grains of quartz
+united by a powdery white basis.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">12 Yellowish-gray sandstone, composed of fine grains of vitreous quartz.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">13 Sandstone, having different shades of brownish-red colour, in layers.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">14 Lydian stone.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_25_25" id="Footnote_25_25"></a><a href="#FNanchor_25_25"><span class="label">[25]</span></a> Mr. Sowerby, who inspected all the specimens containing organic
+remains, says of this species of ammonite, "it is, as far as I can
+discover, new. It contains sulphate of barytes, and is probably
+referrible to some of the Oolites near the Oxford clay." Although it was
+found lying on the beach, I have no doubt of its having fallen from some
+of the beds of clayey sandstone, which form the walls of the rapid.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p class="hang"><a name="Footnote_26_26" id="Footnote_26_26"></a><a href="#FNanchor_26_26"><span class="label">[26]</span></a>33 This limestone appears as if composed of an aggregate of small
+crystals, and presents many drusy cavities.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">34 Is an adjoining bed of a similar colour, of a fine crystalline
+texture, but without the drusy cavities. It appears to be a dolomite.
+These two beds dip to the northward.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">35, 36 Calcareous breccia. The two preceding beds (33 and 34) were from
+the summit of the portion of the hill which forms the cliff, but taken a
+little farther to the N.W. In the cliff the beds dip, as has been
+stated, to the S.W. The following beds occur in going to the
+north-westward, towards the summit of the highest peak, commencing near
+its base, in a valley behind the cliff.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">37 A fine-grained blackish-gray dolomite, having interspersed many
+nodules of chert, or grayish-white quartz, not crystallized.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">38 A very compact, opaque limestone, of a smoke-gray colour, having a
+flat and slightly splintery fracture. Effervesces briskly.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">39 Blackish-gray rather compact limestone, having a flat and dull
+fracture, and intersected by small veins of calc-spar. This is a
+prevalent stone in the hill, and also occurs in quantity in other
+limestone ridges in the neighbourhood.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">40 An ash-gray, fine-granular dolomite.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">41 A conglomerate, forming the summit of the highest peak.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p class="hang"><a name="Footnote_27_27" id="Footnote_27_27"></a><a href="#FNanchor_27_27"><span class="label">[27]</span></a>57 This breccia has a white calcareous basis, which incloses angular
+fragments of compact, yellowish-gray limestone, with smooth dull
+surfaces.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">58 Grayish-white limestone, having a fine crystalline texture, with
+drusy cavities, incrusted with bitumen.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">59 Limestone, apparently composed of crystalline fragments, highly
+charged with bitumen, cemented by a whitish carbonate of lime in minute
+crystals. I could not satisfy myself whether this variety of colour
+proceeded from partial impregnations of bitumen, or from a brecciated
+structure. Specimens 58 and 59 were from beds near the western part of
+the hill.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">60 A fine-grained dolomite, approaching to compact, having a flat and
+somewhat splintery fracture, and a brownish-gray colour.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">61, 62 Limestone in the body of the hill, resembling No. 39 in the hill
+at the rapid in Bear Lake River, but with larger veins of calc-spar.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">63, 64 Dark blackish-brown bituminous shale, veined with calc-spar, and
+passing into bituminous marl-slate. It contains nodules of iron pyrites.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">65 Thin bed of indurated shale, approaching to flinty-slate, lying at
+the foot of some beds of bituminous limestone. Their connection not
+clearly made out.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">66, 67, 68 Bluish-gray, fine-grained sandstone, some of them passing
+into slate-clay, and scarcely to be distinguished from those at the
+rapid in Bear Lake River. Capt. Franklin took these specimens from
+horizontal beds at the foot of the hill facing Bear Lake River.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_28_28" id="Footnote_28_28"></a><a href="#FNanchor_28_28"><span class="label">[28]</span></a>Sir Alexander Mackenzie, in p. 95 of his Voyage to the Arctic Sea,
+states, that he saw several small mineral springs running from the foot
+of this mountain, and found lumps of iron ore on the beach.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_29_29" id="Footnote_29_29"></a><a href="#FNanchor_29_29"><span class="label">[29]</span></a>Travels in the Arkansa, p. 52-54.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p class="center"><a name="Footnote_30_30" id="Footnote_30_30"></a><a href="#FNanchor_30_30"><span class="label">[30]</span></a>Section I.<br /><br /></p>
+
+<p class="center">The section of the bank at the mouth of the Bear Lake River is as
+follows, beginning with the lowest bed:&mdash;<br /><br /></p>
+
+<table width="100%"> <tr><td class="td10">81</td><td class="td70">Gravel, with thin layers of sand rising from the water's edge in a
+perpendicular cliff, to the height of</td><td class="td10" align="right">30</td><td class="td10">feet</td></tr> <tr><td></td><td>Lignite (70 to 80 and 84)</td><td align="right">1</td><td></td></tr>
+<tr><td>83</td><td>Potter's clay of a bluish gray colour, alternating with layers of
+sand</td><td align="right">40</td><td></td></tr> <tr><td></td><td>A sloping uneven brow, covered with soil, extends to the summit
+of the bank</td><td align="right">20</td><td></td></tr> <tr><td></td><td></td><td align="right"><b>91</b></td><td></td></tr> </table>
+
+<p><br />Lydian stone is the most abundant, and whitish quartz the least so of
+the pebbles mentioned in the text as entering into the composition of
+the gravel.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenoteln">82</span>A little farther up the Mackenzie, this bed of gravel passes into
+sand, which, in some spots, has sufficient coherence to merit for it the
+name of sandstone. During a great part even of the summer season, all
+the beds of sand are frozen into a hard sandstone; but a piece having
+been broken off and put into the pocket, speedily thawed into sand.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenoteln">83</span>Specimens of the clay, which I have denominated potter's clay, taken
+from near the beds of lignite, have a colour intermediate between
+yellowish-gray and clove-brown, a dull earthy fracture, and a slightly
+greasy feel. It is not gritty under the knife, and acquires a slightly
+shining smooth surface, adheres slightly to the tongue, and, when
+moistened with water, assumes a darker colour, and becomes plastic.</p>
+
+<p class="center">Section II.<br /><br /></p>
+
+<p class="center">About five miles above Bear Lake River, the cliff consists of Slaty
+sandstone evidently composed of the same materials with the friable
+kinds described in the text, but having tenacity enough to form a
+building stone. It incloses some</p>
+
+<table width="100%"> <tr><td class="td10"></td><td class="td70">seams of lignite</td><td class="td10" align="right">10</td><td class="td10">feet</td></tr> <tr><td></td><td>Lignite</td><td align="right">14&frac12;</td><td></td></tr> <tr><td></td><td>Clay and Sand</td><td align="right">50</td><td></td></tr> <tr><td></td><td>Irregular
+slope from top of cliff to summit of bank</td><td align="right">90</td><td></td></tr> <tr><td></td><td></td><td align="right"><b>154&frac12;</b></td><td></td></tr> </table>
+
+<p class="center">Section III.<br /><br /></p>
+
+<p class="center">A little farther up the river than the preceding:&mdash;<br /><br /></p>
+
+
+
+
+<table style="width: 100%;"> <tr><td style="width: 10%;">85</td><td style="width: 70%;">Pipe-clay on a level with the water</td><td style="width: 10%;" align="right">1</td><td style="width: 10%;">foot</td></tr> <tr><td style="width: 10%;">86</td><td style="width: 70%;">Lignite</td><td style="width: 10%;" align="right">1</td><td style="width: 10%;"></td></tr> <tr><td style="width: 10%;">90</td><td style="width: 70%;">Potter's
+clay</td><td style="width: 10%;" align="right">14</td><td style="width: 10%;">feet</td></tr> <tr><td style="width: 10%;">87</td><td style="width: 70%;">Pipe-clay</td><td style="width: 10%;" align="right">1</td><td style="width: 10%;">foot</td></tr> <tr><td style="width: 10%;">89</td><td style="width: 70%;">Lignite</td><td style="width: 10%;" align="right">1</td><td style="width: 10%;"></td></tr> <tr><td style="width: 10%;">91</td><td style="width: 70%;">Potter's clay</td><td style="width: 10%;" align="right">10</td><td style="width: 10%;">feet</td></tr> <tr><td style="width: 10%;"></td><td style="width: 70%;">Lignite</td><td
+style="width: 10%;" align="right">1</td><td style="width: 10%;">foot</td></tr> <tr><td style="width: 10%;"></td><td style="width: 70%;">Sandstone</td><td style="width: 10%;" align="right">8</td><td style="width: 10%;">feet</td></tr> <tr><td style="width: 10%;"></td><td style="width: 70%;">Lignite</td><td style="width: 10%;" align="right">2&frac12;</td><td style="width: 10%;"></td></tr> <tr><td style="width: 10%;"></td><td style="width: 70%;">Potter's
+clay</td><td style="width: 10%;" align="right">10</td><td style="width: 10%;"></td></tr> <tr><td style="width: 10%;">94</td><td style="width: 70%;">Friable sandstone and clay</td><td style="width: 10%;" align="right">20</td><td style="width: 10%;"></td></tr> <tr><td style="width: 10%;"></td><td style="width: 70%;">Sandstone a little more
+durable</td><td style="width: 10%;" align="right">12</td><td style="width: 10%;"></td></tr> <tr><td style="width: 10%;"></td><td style="width: 70%;">Sloping Summit</td><td style="width: 10%;" align="right">40</td><td style="width: 10%;"></td></tr> <tr><td></td><td></td><td align="right"><b>121&frac12;</b></td><td></td></tr> </table>
+
+<p><br />The pipe-clay, when taken newly from the bed, is soft and plastic, has
+little grittiness, and when chewed for a little time, a somewhat
+unctuous but not unpleasant taste. When dried in the air it acquires the
+hardness of chalk, adheres to the tongue, and has the appearance of the
+whiter kinds of English pipe-clay, but is more meagre.</p>
+
+<p class="center"><br />Section IV.<br /><br /></p>
+
+<p class="center">A little above the preceding:&mdash;<br /><br /></p>
+
+<table width="100%"> <tr><td style="width: 10%;"></td><td style="width: 70%;">A precipitous bank of gravel</td><td style="width: 10%;" align="right">12</td><td style="width: 10%;">feet</td></tr> <tr><td style="width: 10%;"></td><td style="width: 70%;">Lignite and clay, the beds concealed
+by debris</td><td style="width: 10%;" align="right">40</td><td style="width: 10%;"></td></tr> <tr><td style="width: 10%;"></td><td style="width: 70%;">Friable sandstone</td><td style="width: 10%;" align="right">30</td><td style="width: 10%;"></td></tr> <tr><td></td><td>Height of the cliff</td><td align="right"><b>82</b></td><td></td></tr> </table>
+
+<p class="center"><br />Section V.<br /><br /></p>
+
+<p class="center">Ten miles above Bear Lake River, at the junction of a small torrent with
+the Mackenzie, there is a cliff about forty feet high, in which the
+strata have a dip of sixty degrees to the southward.<br /><br /></p>
+
+<table width="100%"> <tr><td style="width: 10%;">98</td><td style="width: 70%;">Bed, No. 1 Porcelain clay</td><td style="width: 10%;" align="right">2</td><td style="width: 10%;">yards</td></tr> <tr><td style="width: 10%;">99</td><td style="width: 70%;">2 Potter's clay slightly
+bituminous</td><td style="width: 10%;" align="right"></td><td style="width: 10%;"></td></tr> <tr><td style="width: 10%;">100, 101</td><td style="width: 70%;"></td><td style="width: 10%;" align="right">2&frac12;</td><td style="width: 10%;"></td></tr> <tr><td style="width: 10%;"></td><td style="width: 70%;" rowspan="2">3 Thin-slaty lignite, with two seams of
+clay-iron stone, an inch thick</td><td style="width: 10%;" align="right"></td><td style="width: 10%;"></td></tr> <tr><td style="width: 10%;">104</td><td style="width: 10%;" align="right"></td><td style="width: 10%;"></td></tr> <tr><td style="width: 10%;">105</td><td style="width: 70%;">4 Pipe clay, (nine inches)</td><td
+style="width: 10%;" align="right">&frac14;</td><td style="width: 10%;"></td></tr> <tr><td style="width: 10%;">106</td><td style="width: 70%;">5 Porcelain clay</td><td style="width: 10%;" align="right">3</td><td style="width: 10%;"></td></tr> <tr><td style="width: 10%;"></td><td style="width: 70%;">6 Bituminous
+clay</td><td style="width: 10%;" align="right">3</td><td style="width: 10%;"></td></tr> <tr><td style="width: 10%;">107</td><td style="width: 70%;">7 Lignite, with a conchoidal fracture</td><td style="width: 10%;" align="right">2</td><td style="width: 10%;"></td></tr> <tr><td style="width: 10%;"></td><td style="width: 70%;">8 Pipe clay</td><td
+style="width: 10%;" align="right">&frac14;</td><td style="width: 10%;"></td></tr> <tr><td style="width: 10%;">110</td><td style="width: 70%;">9 Porcelain clay</td><td style="width: 10%;" align="right">3</td><td style="width: 10%;"></td></tr> <tr><td style="width: 10%;"></td><td style="width: 70%;">10 Bituminous
+clay</td><td style="width: 10%;" align="right">3</td><td style="width: 10%;"></td></tr> <tr><td style="width: 10%;"></td><td style="width: 70%;">11 Lignite, earthy paste, enclosing fibrous fragments</td><td
+style="width: 10%;" align="right">2</td><td style="width: 10%;"></td></tr> <tr><td style="width: 10%;"></td><td style="width: 70%;">12 Porcelain earth</td><td style="width: 10%;"
+align="right" rowspan="3">9</td><td style="width: 10%;"></td></tr> <tr><td style="width: 10%;"></td><td style="width: 70%;">13 Bituminous clay</td><td style="width: 10%;"></td></tr> <tr><td style="width: 10%;"></td><td style="width: 70%;">14 Porcelain earth</td><td style="width: 10%;"></td></tr> <tr><td style="width: 10%;"></td><td style="width: 70%;"></td><td
+style="width: 10%;" align="right"><b>31</b></td><td style="width: 10%;">yards</td></tr> </table>
+
+<p><br /><br />The three last beds it is probable, once inclosed seams of coal which
+have been consumed, but the quantity of debris prevented this from being
+ascertained satisfactorily during the hurried visit I paid to them.</p>
+
+<p><span class="sidenoteln">108</span>Over these inclined beds there is a shelving and crumbling cliff of
+sand and clay covered by a sloping bank of vegetable earth. A layer of
+peat at the summit has a thin slaty structure, and presents altogether,
+except in colour and lustre, a striking resemblance to the shaly
+lignite, forming bed No. 3 in the preceding Section.</p>
+
+<p>104, 98. The substance composing beds Nos. 1 and 5, which I have
+denominated Porcelain clay, has a fine, granular texture, and the
+appearance of some varieties of chalk. It adheres slightly to the
+tongue, yields readily to the nail, is meagre, and soils the fingers
+slightly. There are many specks of coaly matter disseminated through it,
+and some minute scales of mica, and perhaps of quartz. When moistened
+with water, it becomes more friable, and is not plastic. It does not
+effervesce with acids.</p>
+
+<p>Bed No. 9 is the same mineral that forms beds 1 and 5; but it has a
+grayer colour from the greater quantity of coaly particles, and its
+structure is slightly slaty.</p>
+
+<p>The bituminous clay of bed No. 6, has a thick-slaty structure, a
+grayish-black colour, and a shining resinous streak. It is sectile, but
+does not yield to the nail. Pieces of lignite occur imbedded in it, and
+it is traversed by fibrous ramifications of carbonaceous matter.</p>
+
+<p>Specimens 115, 116, 117, 118, 119, are of substances altered by contact
+with beds of burning coal.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_31_31" id="Footnote_31_31"></a><a href="#FNanchor_31_31"><span class="label">[31]</span></a>See Page <a href="#Page_50">50</a> of the Narrative.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_32_32" id="Footnote_32_32"></a><a href="#FNanchor_32_32"><span class="label">[32]</span></a>Noticed in page <a href="#Page_267">267</a>.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_33_33" id="Footnote_33_33"></a><a href="#FNanchor_33_33"><span class="label">[33]</span></a>List of specimens, collected by Captain Franklin, on the sea-coast,
+to the westward of the Mackenzie.</p>
+
+<p class="center"><i>From Mount Fitton in the Richardson Chain.</i></p>
+
+<p class="hang">344 Grauwacke-slate in columnar concretions, detached from the rocky
+strata by an Esquimaux.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">348 Grauwacke-slate, resembling the preceding, from the same place. Used
+by the Esquimaux as a whetstone.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">345, 346 Globular balls of dark, blackish-gray, splintery limestone, and
+of flinty-slate, traversed by minute veins of calc-spar. Picked up at
+the base of the mountain.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">347 Worn pebbles of quartz, lydian stone, splintery limestone, and
+grauwacke, from the same spot.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">349 Fine-grained, mountain-green clay-slate, approaching to potstone;
+quarried by the Esquimaux in the Cupola Mountain of the same chain, and
+used to form utensils.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">350 Rock-crystal from the same chain of mountains.</p>
+
+<p class="center"><i>From the beach between Point Sabine and Point King.</i></p>
+
+<p class="hang">351 Brown-coal, woody structure scarcely perceptible. There are beds of
+this coal in the earthy cliffs where the party was encamped on the 13th
+and 14th July near Point King.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">352 Clay-iron stone, forming boulders in the channels of the rills,
+which cut the earthy banks containing coal.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">353, 354 Pitch-coal, having a fibrous structure and a very beautiful
+fracture, presenting a congeries of circles. (This coal was recognised
+by Professor Buckland to be a tertiary pitch-coal, and is precisely
+similar to specimens brought from the upper branches of the
+Saskatchewan, by Mr. Drummond: see page <a href="#Page_284">284</a>.) The specimen was picked up
+from the gravelly beach at the mouth of the Babbage River.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">355 Greenish-gray limestone, with a somewhat earthy granular aspect;
+containing shells which Mr. Sowerby considers to be very like the
+<i>cyclas medius</i> of the Sussex weald-clay. Picked up at the same place
+with the preceding specimen.</p>
+
+<p>Captain Franklin remarks, that "the Babbage flows between the mountains
+of the Richardson Chain, and that there were no solid strata nor any
+large boulders near its mouth. The gravel consisted of pebbles of red
+and white sandstone, slaty limestone, greenstone, and porphyry, much
+worn by attrition."</p>
+
+<p class="center"><i>From Mount Conybeare, in the Buckland Chain.</i></p>
+
+<p class="hang">356 Greenish-gray grauwacke slate, (resembling No. 348,) with specks of
+effervescent carbonate of lime. The surfaces of the slates exhibit
+interspersed scales of mica. The specimens were broken from the summit
+of Mount Conybeare, at the western extreme of the Buckland Chain:
+latitude 69&deg; 27', longitude 139&deg; 53' west.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">358 Fine-grained grauwacke-slate in columnar concretions, from the same
+place with specimen 356.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">357 Grauwacke-slate, in thick slaty columnar concretions, besprinkled
+with scales of mica. Taken from a bed about the middle of Mount
+Conybeare. The resemblance of this stone to that of Mount Fitton (No.
+344) is very remarkable.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">360 Similar rock to 358, with an adhering portion of a vein of
+crystallized quartz, and on one side a bit of bluish-gray slate. From
+the middle of Mount Conybeare.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">359 Columnar concretion of a slaty rock, like 356, but more quartzose,
+breaking into rhomboidal fragments. From the middle of Mount Conybeare.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">361, 362 Grauwacke-slate, with a thin adhering vein of carbonate of lime
+and numerous particles of disseminated mica. From the middle of Mount
+Conybeare.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">363 Bluish-gray grauwacke-slate, resembling Nos. 348 and 344. From the
+Upper Terrace, at the base of Mount Conybeare.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">364 Dark-bluish gray and very fine-grained grauwacke-slate, with a
+glimmering lustre, traversed by a vein of quartz. From the same place.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">365 A thick-slaty angular concretion of a very quartzose
+grauwacke-slate, (similar to Nos. 348 and 358,) decomposed on the
+surface and breaking into rhomboidal fragments. From the middle Terrace
+at the base of Mount Conybeare.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">366 A somewhat rhomboidal portion of flinty-slate, apparently part of a
+bed. From the Lower Terrace of Mount Conybeare, which is composed of
+this rock. The terrace is ten miles distant from the sea-coast, and the
+intervening ground is swampy.</p>
+
+<p>The whole series of specimens from Mount Conybeare, (Nos. 356 to 366,)
+appear to belong to transition rocks; and the continuity of the
+formation with that of Mount Fitton is rendered probable, both by the
+resemblance of the specimens and the geographical situation of the
+mountains.</p>
+
+<p>Captain Franklin saw no rocks, <i>in situ</i>, on the coast to the westward
+of the Richardson Chain; but he gathered boulders of the following rocks
+from the bed of the Net-setting Rivulet, which flows from the British
+Chain of the Rocky Mountains, and falls into the Arctic Sea, between Sir
+P. Malcolm River and Backhouse River.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">367 Greenstone; 368, yellowish-gray sandstone; 369, dark-coloured
+splintery-limestone; 370, 371, 372, dolomite; 373, quartzose sandstone,
+like the old red sandstone; 374, grauwacke-slate; 375, quartz and iron
+pyrites.</p>
+
+<p>Boulders of the under-mentioned rocks were gathered on Flaxman Island.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">378 Fine-grained, greenish clay-slate, obviously of primitive rock,
+abundant in the neighbourhood, and supposed to have been brought down by
+the rivulets which flow from the Romanzoff Chain. 379, quartz.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">376 and 377 were from Foggy Island, and are rolled specimens of
+flinty-slate; one of them containing corallines.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_34_34" id="Footnote_34_34"></a><a href="#FNanchor_34_34"><span class="label">[34]</span></a>Page <a href="#Page_268">268</a>.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_35_35" id="Footnote_35_35"></a><a href="#FNanchor_35_35"><span class="label">[35]</span></a>134. These specimens have a wood-brown colour internally, and appear
+to be composed of minute grains of quartz, variously coloured, white,
+yellowish-brown and black, cemented together by an earthy basis. It is a
+hard and apparently durable stone, occurring in layers an inch thick,
+and having its seam-surfaces of a grayish-black colour, with little
+lustre, as if from a thin coating of bituminous clay.</p>
+
+<p>135, are specimens of a more compact, harder, and finer-grained
+quartzose sandstone, with less cement, and of a deeper bluish-gray
+colour.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_36_36" id="Footnote_36_36"></a><a href="#FNanchor_36_36"><span class="label">[36]</span></a>Mackenzie attempted to ascend this hill, but was compelled to desist
+by clouds of musquitoes, (July 6th, 1789. <i>Voyage to the Arctic Sea</i>, p.
+40.)</p>
+
+<p class="hang">136 This limestone effervesces strongly with acids, breaks into
+irregular fragments, but with an imperfect slaty structure, and has a
+brown colour, with considerable lustre in the cross fracture.</p>
+
+<p>The specimens collected by Captain Franklin were as follows:&mdash;</p>
+
+<p class="hang">144a Sandstone of an ash-gray colour, composed of rounded grains of
+semi-transparent quartz of various sizes, imbedded in a considerable
+proportion of a powdery basis which effervesces with acids. This bed
+weathers readily.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">145 Thick-slaty sandstone passing into slate-clay, having a very
+fine-grained earthy fracture, and a light bluish-gray colour. It is very
+similar to some of the softer sandstones that occur in the coal field at
+Edinburgh, particularly in the Calton Hill.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">146 Sectile ash-gray slate-clay which forms the partings of the beds.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">144b Bluish-gray marl, impregnated with quartz, forming a moderately
+hard stone, and containing corallines (<i>amplexus</i>.)</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p class="center"><a name="Footnote_37_37" id="Footnote_37_37"></a><a href="#FNanchor_37_37"><span class="label">[37]</span></a><i>Upper part of the ramparts.</i></p>
+
+<p class="hang">148 A fine-granular, foliated limestone, of a white colour, having large
+patches stained yellowish-brown, apparently by bitumen.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">149 A yellowish-gray slightly granular limestone, with disseminated
+calc-spar.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">150 Compact, white limestone, which, when examined with a lens, appears
+to be entirely composed of madrepores.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">151 Specimens of limestone, having a crystalline texture, a brownish
+colour and slaty structure.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">152 The seams are dark, as if from the carbonaceous
+matter&mdash;portions of this bed have the appearance of old mortar; but
+contain obscure madrepores.</p>
+
+<p class="center"><i>From the middle of the ramparts.</i></p>
+
+<p class="hang">153 Fine-granular limestone, having a pale, wood-brown colour, and a
+splintery fracture. It resembles the limestone of the hill at the mouth
+of Bear Lake River.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">154 Pale yellowish-brown limestone, with a dull fracture, but
+interspersed with small, shining, sparry plates, and traversed by
+concretions of calc-spar, that appear to have originated in corallines.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">155 Yellowish-gray limestone, passing into a soft marl slate.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">156 Some beds contain a shell, which Mr. Sowerby refers, though with
+doubt, to the species named terebratula sph&aelig;roidalis, a fossil of
+the cornbrash. The substance of the shells is preserved.</p>
+
+<p>Some of the specimens contain <i>producti</i>, and fragments of the coral
+named <i>amplexus</i>.</p>
+
+<p class="center"><i>Lower end of the ramparts.</i></p>
+
+<p class="hang">157 Fine-grained limestone, of a dark-brown colour, containing some
+small, round, smooth balls of dark limestone&mdash;occurs in horizontal
+strata.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">158 Brownish-black flinty-slate, which forms a layer an inch thick, and
+covers the horizontal beds of limestone last mentioned. (157.)</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p class="center"><a name="Footnote_38_38" id="Footnote_38_38"></a><a href="#FNanchor_38_38"><span class="label">[38]</span></a><i>Specimens from the cliffs in lat. 66&frac34;&deg;.</i></p>
+
+<p class="hang">159 Very fine-grained sandstone, with much clayey basis&mdash;portions
+of the bed iron-shot.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">160 Sandstone fine-grained, and appearing, when examined with a lens, to
+be composed of minute grains of whitish translucent quartz, black Lydian
+stone, and ochre-coloured grains, probably of disintegrated felspar.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">161 Rounded grains of nearly transparent quartz united without
+cement&mdash;this stone is friable.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">162 Sandstone composed of grains like the preceding, united by a basis,
+and forming a firmer stone.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">163 Hard, thin, slaty, bluish-gray sandstone, much iron-shot.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">164 Fine-grained, bluish-gray sandstone, not to be distinguished in
+hand-specimens from some of the sandstones which occur at the rapid in
+Bear Lake River.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p class="center"><a name="Footnote_39_39" id="Footnote_39_39"></a><a href="#FNanchor_39_39"><span class="label">[39]</span></a><i>Horizontal limestone beds lying under the sandstone.</i></p>
+
+<p class="hang">166 Fine-grained limestone, with an earthy fracture, coloured brown and
+grayish-white in patches.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">167, 168 Similar stone to preceding, containing many shells. Some beds
+contain only broken shells.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">169 Bed of imperfectly crystalline limestone, of a brownish-gray colour,
+traversed by veins of calc-spar.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">170 Fragments containing madrepores and chain coral&mdash;occur amongst
+the debris of the limestone cliffs.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p class="center"><a name="Footnote_40_40" id="Footnote_40_40"></a><a href="#FNanchor_40_40"><span class="label">[40]</span></a><i>Sandstone cliffs twenty miles below Fort Good Hope.</i></p>
+
+<p class="hang">173 Friable sandstone, composed of grayish-white quartz, in smooth,
+rounded grains, cemented by a brownish basis. Some carbonaceous matter
+is interspersed through the stone, and it contains small fragments of
+bituminous shale.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">174 Calcareous sandstone passing into slate-clay&mdash;bluish-gray
+colour.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">175 Black, flinty-slate, with a flat conchoidal cross fracture. Some of
+the pieces appear to be rhomboidal distinct concretions.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">176 Dull, flinty-slate, with an even fracture.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">178 Thin-slaty blackish-gray sandstone, much indurated, containing
+scales of mica.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">179, 180 Bluish-gray sandstone, containing many minute specks of
+carbonaceous matter; also, in patches, grains of chert, and
+flinty-slate, and imbedded pieces of iron-shot clay, which has obscure
+casts of shells. Scales of mica are interspersed through this stone.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">181, 182 Sandstone containing specks of bituminous? coal, and casts of
+some vegetable? substance.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">183 Gray limestone, much impregnated with quartz, and having an
+imperfect crystalline structure.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_41_41" id="Footnote_41_41"></a><a href="#FNanchor_41_41"><span class="label">[41]</span></a>Mackenzie notices the precipices of "gray stone," which bound the
+river here, p. 71.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_42_42" id="Footnote_42_42"></a><a href="#FNanchor_42_42"><span class="label">[42]</span></a>See page <a href="#Page_288">288</a>.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p class="center"><a name="Footnote_43_43" id="Footnote_43_43"></a><a href="#FNanchor_43_43"><span class="label">[43]</span></a>Specimens from Sellwood Bay.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">202 Fine-grained dark brownish-gray dolomite, with corallines filled
+with white calc-spar.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">203 Lucullite grayish-black, compact, and without lustre.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">204 Gray dolomite.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">205 A rolled piece, evidently of the same rock with the preceding,
+containing the impression of a <i>cardium</i>.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">206</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_44_44" id="Footnote_44_44"></a><a href="#FNanchor_44_44"><span class="label">[44]</span></a>Specimens from the Promontory of Cape Parry, which rises into a
+hill, seven hundred feet high. Strata dipping lightly to the northward.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">207 Yellowish-gray dolomite, imperfectly crystalline, being similar to
+the limestone of Lake Winipeg.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">208 Brownish dolomite impregnated with silica.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">209 Thin-slaty, gray limestone. Very common also in Lake Winipeg.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">210, 211 Boulders of dolomite.</p>
+
+<p class="hang">212</p>
+
+<p class="hang">213 Brown dolomite, with drusy cavities and veins, lined by calc-spar.</p></div>
+
+<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_45_45" id="Footnote_45_45"></a><a href="#FNanchor_45_45"><span class="label">[45]</span></a>In the geological notices appended to the narrative of Captain
+Franklin's Journey to the Coppermine, I have termed this rock a dark
+purplish-red felspar rock. On examining it again on this journey, I
+perceived it to be a greenstone, whose surfaces weather of a rusty brown
+colour.</p></div>
+
+</div>
+
+<p><br /></p>
+
+<div class="note"><h3>TRANSCRIBER'S NOTES:</h3>
+
+<p>Sidenotes have been placed as closely as possible to where they appeared in the original.
+</p>
+<p>Old spellings are retained, e.g. musquitoes, felspar, Esquimaux,
+kaiyacks, imbedded, incloses, inclosing, inquiry, inquiries, moveable,
+incrusted, trowsers, bivouack, referrible, teazing. Both vallies and
+valleys are used interchangably and this has not altered. Names with
+suffixes "Mc" or "Mac" written as "M'" throughout text; this
+convention is retained.</p>
+
+<p>"<span class="smcap">a.m.</span>" and "<span class="smcap">p.m.</span>" are shown without an internal space&mdash;spaces have
+been removed where they were present. Usage was inconsistent, perhaps to
+improve justification of text. Internal spaces have also been removed
+from initials such as R.N., F.R.S., K.G., &amp;c. to improve rewrap
+behaviour. Decimal points were occasionally denoted by commas. This
+convention is replaced by standard point notation throughout.</p>
+
+<p>Lengthy quotations were denoted by a leading quotation mark in the first
+column of each line. They are replaced with standard opening and closing
+quotation marks for each quoted passage.</p>
+
+<p>"Dog-Rib" Indians were sometimes referred to as "Dog-rib".  Usage is now
+"Dog-Rib" throughout.</p>
+
+<p>Specific corrections made to text are listed below. Note that examples
+are given after a colon and are the corrected text. All other printer's errors
+remain.</p>
+
+<table width="100%">
+<tr><td>Page&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</td><td>Comment</td></tr>
+<tr><td>14,51,79</td><td>"water-proof" changed to "waterproof".</td></tr>
+<tr><td>16</td><td>"depot" changed to "dep&ocirc;t".</td></tr>
+<tr><td>17</td><td>"Hudsons's Bay Company" corrected to "Hudson's Bay Company".<br />"bat-/teau" corrected to "bateau" to be consistent with rest of text.  Typo was across end of line hyphen.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>24</td><td>"Hudson's Bay-Company" corrected to "Hudson's Bay Company".</td></tr>
+<tr><td>25</td><td>"was dragged by other eight men" corrected to "was dragged by another eight men".</td></tr>
+<tr><td>26</td><td>"Riviere" corrected to "Rivi&egrave;re".<br/>"Hudson" corrected to "Hudson's"</td></tr>
+<tr><td>27</td><td>"or" corrected to "on": "live on dried provision".</td></tr>
+<tr><td>28</td><td>"depend" corrected to "depends".</td></tr>
+<tr><td>29</td><td>"chace" corrected to "chase". Whilst both forms are acceptable for the time, both were used in the book. The change makes everything consistent. See also page 65.<br />"of" inserted: "under the roof of our hospitable friend".</td></tr>
+<tr><td>30</td><td>"Winnipeg" corrected to "Winipeg" to be consistent with rest of manuscript.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>32,51</td><td>"northwest" corrected to "north-west" for consistency.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>34</td><td>"eastermost" corrected to "easternmost".</td></tr>
+<tr><td>39,53,65,96,202</td><td>"day-light" changed to daylight".</td></tr>
+<tr><td>42</td><td>"sandbanks" changed to "sand-banks" for consistency with rest of manuscript.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>45</td><td>"least" changed to "lest": "lest the Esquimaux should come".</td></tr>
+<tr><td>48,51</td><td>"rein deer" corrected to "rein-deer" twice on this page to be consistent with rest of manuscript.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>52,299</td><td>"lydianstone" corrected to "lydian-stone".</td></tr>
+<tr><td>49</td><td>"Rocky mountains" capitalised to "Rocky Mountains".</td></tr>
+<tr><td>52</td><td>"occurence" corrected to "occurrence".</td></tr>
+<tr><td>53</td><td>"chissel" changed to "chisel": "ice-chisel".<br /> Inserted comma after "ice-chisel" to correct list punctuation.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>54</td><td>"Cannon-shot" changed to "Cannon-Shot" for consistency in place name "Cannon-Shot Reach".</td></tr>
+<tr><td>56</td><td>"where-ever" across end of line changed to "wherever" twice on this page.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>62</td><td>"skreening" amended to "screening": "screening us from the snow".</td></tr>
+<tr><td>65</td><td>"bag-pipes" to "bagpipes".<br /> "chace" corrected to "chase".</td></tr>
+<tr><td>70</td><td>"Chepewyan" corrected to "Chipewyan".<br />"invariable" corrected to "invariably": "the needle almost invariably remained stationary".</td></tr>
+<tr><td>77</td><td>"temperature in the shade +8&deg; 5'": odd use of minutes noted. It is not immediately obvious what is intended.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>80</td><td>"dimunition" corrected to "diminution".</td></tr>
+<tr><td>83</td><td>"canvass" corrected to "canvas": "waterproof canvas".</td></tr>
+<tr><td>88</td><td>"aud" corrected to "and": "iron-work, knives, and beads".</td></tr>
+<tr><td>92</td><td>"northeast" changed to "north-east".</td></tr>
+<tr><td>94</td><td>"Francois" changed to "Fran&ccedil;ois". "westermost" changed to "westernmost".</td></tr>
+<tr><td>95</td><td>"36' N" changed to "36' N.".</td></tr>
+<tr><td>101</td><td>"mall" corrected to "small": "so small a number".</td></tr>
+<tr><td>109</td><td>"mases" to "masses": "the larger masses".</td></tr>
+<tr><td>111</td><td>"Copper-mine" to "Coppermine": "the Coppermine River".<br /> "tatoed" to "tattoed": "men being tattoed".</td></tr>
+<tr><td>112,119,130,132,<br /> 172,173,190</td><td>"oomiacks" changed to "oomiaks".</td></tr>
+<tr><td>117</td><td>"liittle" to "little": "our little friend".</td></tr>
+<tr><td>122</td><td>"seperated" corrected to "separated".</td></tr>
+<tr><td>124</td><td>"ancle" amended to "ankle".</td></tr>
+<tr><td>126</td><td>"Dip" made lower-case "dip" since mid-sentence.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>129</td><td>"British chain" changed to "British Chain" for consistency.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>132</td><td>"visiters" corrected to "visitors".</td></tr>
+<tr><td>132,148,152,190</td><td>"oomiack" corrected to "oomiak".</td></tr>
+<tr><td>146</td><td>"ice chissel" changed to "ice-chisel".</td></tr>
+<tr><td>147</td><td>"and the main, that when" changed to "and the main than when" to correct typos.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>148</td><td>"Humphreys" changed to "Humphrys" to be consistent.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>156</td><td>"Capitalised start of sentence: "be killed? You are active".<br /> Added closing quotation marks after "depart instantly".</td></tr>
+<tr><td>157</td><td>"hair skins" changed to "hare skins" since "their dress consisting principally of hare skins" is noted on page 247.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>160</td><td>Degree symbol used instead of minute symbol. Correct form: "latitude 69&deg; 34' &amp; 69&deg; 44' N."</td></tr>
+<tr><td>163</td><td>Comma changed to full-stop since it occurs at end of sentence: "white spruce trees. Our voyage amongst these".</td></tr>
+<tr><td>166</td><td>"Richard's" changed to "Richards'" since the governor was John Baker Richards.<br /> "island" changed to "Island": "Richards' Island".</td></tr>
+<tr><td>167</td><td>Comma changed to full-stop since it occurs at end of sentence: "intimidation and extortion. When the interview".<br /> "kaiyaks" changed to "kaiyacks".</td></tr>
+<tr><td>173</td><td>"harassing" changed to "harrassing".</td></tr>
+<tr><td>174</td><td>It is unclear whether these Eskimo words were meant to have oe or ae. The printer seems to have used the oe ligature
+indifferently for ae, as sometimes happened at this period. <i>Cf</i>. sertulariæ p. 179 etc. And the only such word in non-italic has ae: Narrakazz&aelig; p. 266. At any rate, later
+writers certainly seem to have read them all as oe.<br /> "peechaw-ooloo" has a macron (overscore) diacritical mark on its final letter; this has been omitted.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>177</td><td>"ice-bergs" changed to "icebergs".</td></tr>
+<tr><td>180</td><td>"Wednesday 12th" changed to "Wednesday, 12th" to be consistent with other sidenotes.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>184</td><td>"grounded-ice" amended to "grounded ice".</td></tr>
+<tr><td>185</td><td>"K'Kinley" corrected to "M'Kinley": "Captain George M'Kinley".</td></tr>
+<tr><td>189</td><td>"sine" changed to "side".</td></tr>
+<tr><td>190</td><td>"ecstacy" changed to "ecstasy".<br />"their wide boots" changed to "their wide hoods", <i>cf</i>. pp. 44, 110.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>195</td><td>"head-land" changed to "headland".</td></tr>
+<tr><td>199</td><td>"preservance" corrected to "perseverance".<br />"from" changed to "form": "those which form its western shores".</td></tr>
+<tr><td>200</td><td>"short-voyage" changed to "short voyage".<br />Comma changed to full-stop since it occurs at end of sentence: "south-east direction. We landed a little to the eastward".</td></tr>
+<tr><td>202</td><td>"head-lands" changed to "headlands".</td></tr>
+<tr><td>204</td><td>"closenes" corrected to "closeness".</td></tr>
+<tr><td>207</td><td>"lime-stone" corrected to "limestone".</td></tr>
+<tr><td>208</td><td>"deers-meat" corrected to "deer-meat".</td></tr>
+<tr><td>211</td><td>"semed" corrected to "seemed": "seemed to contain".</td></tr>
+<tr><td>214</td><td>"lime-stone" corrected to "limestone".</td></tr>
+<tr><td>225</td><td>"several of of them" changed to "several of them". Word was repeated across end of line.<br /> "dimunition" corrected to "diminution": "suffered some diminution".</td></tr>
+<tr><td>226</td><td>Comma changed to full-stop since it occurs at end of sentence: "on their route to Bear Lake. The ridges of hill".</td></tr>
+<tr><td>227</td><td>"ecstacy" corrected to "ecstasy".</td></tr>
+<tr><td>230</td><td>"68" changed to "66": 3 days ago they were at 67° 10', heading SW; the northernmost point of Great Bear Lake is at about 67°.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>232</td><td>"Thursday 24th" changed to "Thursday, 24th" to be consistent with other sidenotes.<br /> "I I therefore embarked" changed to "I therefore embarked"; repeat was across line break.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>237</td><td>"Krusensten" changed to "Krusenstern" since the latter is used in the rest of the text.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>240</td><td>"indvalids" corrected to "invalids".</td></tr>
+<tr><td>244</td><td>"extrordinary" corrected to "extraordinary"<br /> "Corona" corrected to "Coron&aelig;".</td></tr>
+<tr><td>245</td><td>"+30.5 degrees." changed to "+30.5 degrees,".</td></tr>
+<tr><td>246</td><td>"re-appearance" corrected to "reappearance".</td></tr>
+<tr><td>257</td><td>"house" changed to "House".</td></tr>
+<tr><td>261</td><td>"depots" changed to "dep&ocirc;ts".</td></tr>
+<tr><td>268</td><td>"sulphat" corrected to "sulphate": "crystals of sulphate of iron".</td></tr>
+<tr><td>271</td><td>"moses" corrected to "mosses": "is covered a foot deep, or more, by mosses".</td></tr>
+<tr><td>274</td><td>"off" corrected to "of": "at the bottom of the cliff".</td></tr>
+<tr><td>278</td><td>"sandsone" corrected to "sandstone".</td></tr>
+<tr><td>279</td><td>"sand-stones" corrected to "sandstones".<br />"oscasionally" corrected to "occasionally".</td></tr>
+<tr><td>280</td><td>"clay-stone" to "claystone".</td></tr>
+<tr><td>283</td><td>"long;" changed to "long.;".</td></tr>
+<tr><td>284</td><td>"formation" corrected to "formations": "similar formations which occupy".</td></tr>
+<tr><td>285</td><td>"limetone" corrected to "limestone".</td></tr>
+<tr><td>290</td><td>"swells gently into a hill several feet high"; should this be "several hundred feet high"?<br /> "Horn Mountain" changed to "Horn Mountains".<br /> "sienities" changed to "sienites".</td></tr>
+<tr><td>293</td><td>"in some, reaches" changed to "in some reaches,".<br /> Footnote 36: "very-fine grained" changed to "very fine-grained".</td></tr>
+<tr><td>295</td><td>"specifind" corrected to "specified".<br /> "sphoeroidalis" corrected to "sph&aelig;roidalis".<br />"corbrash" corrected to "cornbrash".</td></tr>
+<tr><td>296</td><td>Removed spurious opening quotation mark before "ramparts", thereby balancing quotation marks.</td></tr>
+<tr><td>297</td><td>"terrebratula" corrected to "terebratula".</td></tr>
+<tr><td>303</td><td>"coasted" changed to "coated".</td></tr>
+<tr><td>308</td><td>"othoceratites" changed to "orthoceratites".</td></tr>
+<tr><td>318</td><td>"Sowbery" changed to "Sowerby".</td></tr>
+</table>
+
+</div>
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Narrative of a Second Expedition to
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+</body>
+</html>
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@@ -0,0 +1,13552 @@
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Narrative of a Second Expedition to the
+Shores of the Polar Sea, by John Franklin and John Richardson
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Narrative of a Second Expedition to the Shores of the Polar Sea
+
+Author: John Franklin
+        John Richardson
+
+Release Date: August 19, 2010 [EBook #33467]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NARRATIVE: THE POLAR SEA ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Carlo Traverso, Adam Styles and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This
+file was produced from images generously made available
+by the Bibliotheque nationale de France (BnF/Gallica) at
+http://gallica.bnf.fr)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+Transcriber's note:
+
+
+The original makes extensive use of sidenotes, and several sidenotes
+are often associated with a single paragraph, especially within the
+final chapter. Because of this, inline sidenotes have been used and
+are positioned as close to the relevant passage as was possible during
+proofing.
+
+
+
+
+                         NARRATIVE
+                  OF A SECOND EXPEDITION
+                     TO THE SHORES OF
+                      THE POLAR SEA,
+                       IN THE YEARS
+                   1825, 1826, AND 1827,
+
+                     BY JOHN FRANKLIN,
+   CAPT. R.N., F.R.S., &C. AND COMMANDER OF THE EXPEDITION.
+
+          INCLUDING AN ACCOUNT OF THE PROGRESS OF A
+                 DETACHMENT TO THE EASTWARD,
+
+       BY JOHN RICHARDSON, M.D., F.R.S., F.L.S., &c.
+         SURGEON AND NATURALIST TO THE EXPEDITION.
+
+     PUBLISHED BY AUTHORITY OF THE RIGHT HONOURABLE THE
+          SECRETARY OF STATE FOR COLONIAL AFFAIRS.
+
+                       Philadelphia:
+           CAREY, LEA, AND CAREY--CHESNUT STREET.
+
+  SOLD IN NEW YORK BY G. AND C. CARVILL--IN BOSTON BY MUNROE
+                       AND FRANCIS.
+
+                          1828.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+              W. PILKINGTON & CO. PRINTERS.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+                           TO
+
+                  THE RIGHT HONOURABLE
+                 THE EARL BATHURST, K.G.,
+          LORD PRESIDENT OF HIS MAJESTY'S COUNCIL,
+                       &c. &c. &c.
+
+                      THE FOLLOWING
+      NARRATIVE OF A SECOND JOURNEY OF DISCOVERY ALONG
+               THE NORTHERN COAST OF AMERICA,
+         UNDERTAKEN BY ORDER AND UNDER THE AUSPICES
+                     OF HIS LORDSHIP,
+               IS, BY PERMISSION, INSCRIBED
+             WITH GREAT RESPECT AND GRATITUDE,
+                            BY
+                        THE AUTHOR.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+
+                                                                  _Page_
+
+ Introductory Chapter                                                ix
+
+ Official Instructions                                              xix
+
+ CHAPTER I.
+
+    Join the Boats in the Methye River--Cross the Long Portage--Arrival
+    at Fort Chipewyan--Departure from thence with the whole party for
+    Mackenzie River--Arrangements at Fort Norman--Descent to the
+    Sea--Return to the Winter Quarters at Great Bear Lake             23
+
+ CHAPTER II.
+
+    Transactions at Fort Franklin, 1825-6                             61
+
+ CHAPTER III.
+
+    Voyage to the Sea--Part from the Eastern Detachment at Point
+    Separation--Reach the Mouth of the Mackenzie--Interview and Contest
+    with the Esquimaux--Detained by Ice--Meet friendly Esquimaux--Point
+    Sabine                                                            87
+
+ CHAPTER IV.
+
+    Babbage River--Meet Natives at Herschel Island--Their Trade with the
+    Russians, through the Western Esquimaux--Ascend Mount
+    Conybeare--Boundary of the British Dominions on this Coast--Delayed
+    at Icy Reef--Barter Island--Detention at Foggy Island--Return
+    Reef--Limit of outward Voyage                                    114
+
+ CHAPTER V.
+
+    Commence Return to the Mackenzie--Delayed again at Foggy Island--Ice
+    packed on the Reefs near Beaufort Bay, and on the Coast about
+    Clarence River--Pass the Channels near Herschel Island in a Gale and
+    Fog--A sudden Gale--Escape an Attack which the Mountain Indians
+    meditated--Enter the Mackenzie--Peel River--Arrival at Fort Franklin
+                                                                     141
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+ _Dr. Richardson's Narrative of the Proceedings of the Eastern Detachment
+ of the Expedition._
+
+ CHAPTER I.
+
+    Leave Point Separation, and descend the Eastern Channel of the
+    Mackenzie--Arrive at Sacred Island--Esquimaux Graves--Interview with
+    the Natives; their thievish disposition--Attempt to gain possession
+    of the Union--Heavy Gale--Find shelter in Refuge Cove--Low
+    Coast--Mirage--Stopped by Ice at Point Toker--Reach the Sea      162
+
+ CHAPTER II.
+
+    Detention by wind--Visited by the Esquimaux--Cross a large Stream of
+    Fresh Water--Winter Houses on Atkinson Island--Gale of Wind and
+    Fog--Run into Browell Cove--Double Cape Dalhousie--Liverpool Bay and
+    Esquimaux Lake--Icy Cliffs--Meet another party of Esquimaux--Cape
+    Bathurst                                                         180
+
+ CHAPTER III.
+
+    Double Cape Bathurst--Whales--Bituminous-shale Cliffs on Fire--Enter
+    Franklin Bay--Heavy Gale--Peninsula of Cape Parry--Perforated
+    Rock--Detention at Cape Lyon by Wind--Force of an Esquimaux
+    Arrow--Meet with heavy Ice--Pass Union and Dolphin Straits--Double
+    Cape Krusenstern, and enter George the Fourth's Coronation
+    Gulph--Reach the Coppermine River--Remarks--Meteorological Table
+                                                                     193
+ CHAPTER IV.
+
+    Ascend the Coppermine River--Abandon the Boats and
+    Stores--Commence the Land Journey--Cross the Copper Mountains and
+    Height of Land--Meet Indians who bring Provisions--Arrive at Great
+    Bear Lake--Detained by want of a Boat--Send out Hunters--Arrival of
+    Beaulieu--Collect the Party, and proceed to Fort
+    Franklin--Conclusion                                             222
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+ _Captain Franklin's Narrative resumed._
+
+ CHAPTER VI.
+
+    Brief Notices of the Second Winter at Bear Lake--Traditions of the
+    Dog-Ribs--Leave Fort Franklin--Winter Journey to Fort
+    Chipewyan--Remarks on the progress of improvement in the Fur
+    Countries--Set out in Canoes on the Voyage Homeward--Join Dr.
+    Richardson at Cumberland House--Mr. Drummond's Narrative--Arrival in
+    Canada, at New York, and London                                  238
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+ APPENDIX.
+
+    Topographical and Geological Notices, by Dr. Richardson, R.N.    263
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+An account of the objects of Natural History, collected on our journey
+being too voluminous to be inserted in the Appendix, has been reserved
+for a separate work which will be published as soon as possible, by Dr.
+Richardson and Professor Hooker, under the sanction, and by the
+assistance, of His Majesty's Government.
+
+
+
+
+INTRODUCTORY CHAPTER.
+
+
+His Majesty's Government having, towards the close of the year 1823,
+determined upon another attempt to effect a northern passage by sea
+between the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans, and Captain Parry, the highly
+distinguished Commander of the two preceding Expeditions, having been
+again entrusted with its execution, success, as far as ability,
+enterprise, and experience could ensure it, appeared likely to be the
+result. Yet, as the object was one for which Great Britain had thought
+proper to contend for upwards of three centuries, it seemed to me that
+it might be desirable to pursue it by more ways than one; I therefore
+ventured to lay before His Majesty's Government a plan for an Expedition
+overland to the mouth of the Mackenzie River, and thence, by sea, to the
+northwestern extremity of America, with the combined object, also, of
+surveying the coast between the Mackenzie and Coppermine Rivers.
+
+I was well aware of the sympathy excited in the British public by the
+sufferings of those engaged in the former overland Expedition to the
+mouth of the Coppermine River, and of the humane repugnance of His
+Majesty's Government to expose others to a like fate; but I was enabled
+to show satisfactorily that, in the proposed course, similar dangers
+were not to be apprehended, while the objects to be attained were
+important at once to the naval character, scientific reputation, and
+commercial interests of Great Britain; and I received directions from
+the Right Honourable Earl Bathurst to make the necessary preparations
+for the equipment of the Expedition, to the command of which I had the
+honour to be nominated.
+
+My much valued friend, Dr. Richardson, offered his services as
+Naturalist and Surgeon, and also volunteered to undertake the survey of
+the coast between the Mackenzie and Coppermine Rivers, while I should be
+occupied in endeavouring to reach Icy Cape.
+
+Lieutenant Bushnan, who had served under Captains Ross and Parry on
+their voyages of discovery, was also appointed to accompany me; but,
+long before the party was to leave England, I had to lament the
+premature death of that excellent young officer, who was eminently
+qualified for the situation, by his skill in astronomical observations,
+surveying, and drawing. Many naval officers, distinguished for their
+talent and ability, were desirous of filling the vacancy; but my friend
+and former companion, Lieutenant Back, having returned from the West
+Indies, the appointment was offered to him, and accepted with his wonted
+zeal.
+
+Mr. E.N. Kendall, Admiralty Mate, and recently assistant Surveyor with
+Captain Lyon, was appointed to accompany Dr. Richardson in his voyage to
+the eastward, and to do the duty of an Assistant-Surveyor to the
+Expedition at large, whilst it continued united. Lastly, Mr. Thomas
+Drummond, of Forfar, was appointed Assistant Naturalist, on the
+recommendation of Professor Hooker, and other eminent scientific men.
+
+A residence in the northern parts of America, where the party must
+necessarily depend for subsistence on the daily supply of fish, or on
+the still more precarious success of Indian hunters, involves many
+duties which require the superintendence of a person of long experience
+in the management of the fisheries, and in the arrangement of the
+Canadian voyagers and Indians: we had many opportunities, during the
+former voyage, of being acquainted with the qualifications of Mr. Peter
+Warren Dease, Chief Trader of the Hudson's Bay Company, for these
+services, and I therefore procured the sanction of His Majesty's
+Government for his being employed on the Expedition.
+
+As soon as I had authority from Earl Bathurst, I entered into a
+correspondence with the Governor and Directors of the Hudson's Bay
+Company; and these gentlemen, taking the most lively interest in the
+objects of the Expedition, promised their utmost support to it, and
+forthwith sent injunctions to their officers in the Fur Countries to
+provide the necessary depots of provision at the places which I pointed
+out, and to give every other aid in their power. I also wrote to the
+different Chief Factors and Chief Traders of the Company, who resided on
+the route of the Expedition, explaining its objects, and requesting
+their co-operation.
+
+_Pemmican_, the principal article of provision used in travelling, being
+made during the winter and spring, the orders for providing the extra
+quantity required for the Expedition, though sent out from England by
+the earliest conveyance, so as to reach the provision posts in the
+summer of 1824, could not be put into effect sooner than the spring of
+1825; hence, it was not proper that the main body of the Expedition
+should reach the Fur Countries before the latter period. Some stores
+were forwarded from England, by way of New York, in March 1824, under
+charge of Mr. Robert M'Vicar, Chief Trader, for the purpose of relieving
+the Expedition as much as possible from the incumbrance of heavy
+baggage, and thus enabling it, by marching quickly, to reach its
+intended winter-quarters at Great Bear Lake, as well as to provide for
+its more comfortable reception at that place. These stores, with the
+addition of other articles obtained in Canada, sufficed to load three
+north canoes, manned by eighteen voyagers; and they were delivered by
+Mr. M'Vicar, before the winter set in, to Mr. Dease, at the Athabasca
+Lake. Mr. Dease was instructed to support his party by fishing at Great
+Slave Lake, during the winter of 1824-25; and, early in the spring of
+1825, to proceed to Great Bear Lake, and commence the necessary
+buildings for the reception of the Expedition. I may here cursorily
+remark that, in selecting Great Bear Lake as our winter residence, I was
+influenced by the information I had obtained of its being the place
+nearest to the mouth of the Mackenzie, known to the traders, where a
+sufficient supply of fish could be procured for the support of so large
+a party.
+
+Three light boats, which I shall soon more particularly describe, were
+also sent out to York Factory, in June 1824, in the annual Hudson's Bay
+ship, together with a further supply of stores, two carpenters, and a
+party of men, with a view of their reaching Cumberland House, on the
+Saskatchawan River, the same season; and starting from thence as soon as
+the navigation opened in the following spring, that they might be as far
+as possible advanced on their way to Bear Lake before they were
+overtaken by the Officers of the Expedition. The latter proceeding by
+way of New York and Canada, would have the advantage of an earlier
+spring in travelling through the more southern districts; and, further
+to expedite their progress, I directed two _large_ canoes (canots de
+maitre,) with the necessary equipments and stores, to be deposited at
+Penetanguishene, the naval depot of Lake Huron, in the autumn of 1824,
+to await our arrival in the following spring; having been informed
+that, in ordinary seasons, we should, by commencing our voyage at that
+place, arrive in the north-west country ten days earlier than by the
+usual way of proceeding up the Utawas River from Montreal.
+
+The return of the Hudson's Bay ship towards the close of the year 1824,
+brought me satisfactory intelligence of the progress of the
+above-mentioned parties, together with the most pleasing assurances from
+the Gentlemen of the Company to whom I had written, of their zeal in our
+cause; and here I must express the deep sense I have of the kindness of
+the late Honourable William M'Gillivray, of Montreal, whose experience
+enabled him to give me many valuable suggestions relating to the
+clothing and subsistence of the party, and to the supplies proper for
+the Indians.
+
+In connexion with the above sketch of the preparatory steps taken in the
+course of the year 1824, it may be proper to give, in this place, a
+short account of the general equipments of the Expedition.
+
+And first, with regard to the vessels intended for the navigation of the
+Arctic Sea: birch-bark canoes, uniting lightness and facility of repair
+with speed, are certainly well adapted for navigating the rivers of
+America, but they are much too slight to bear the concussion of waves in
+a rough sea, and they are still less fitted, from the tenderness of the
+bark, for coming in contact with ice. I therefore requested of the Lords
+Commissioners of the Admiralty that _three_ boats might be constructed
+under my superintendence; and they were immediately ordered and promptly
+finished under the directions of the Commissioners of the Navy. To fit
+them for the ascent and descent of the many rapids between York Factory
+and Mackenzie River; and to render their transport over the numerous
+portages more easy, it was necessary to have them as small, and of as
+light a construction as possible; and, in fact, as much like a north
+canoe as was consistent with the stability and capacity required for
+their voyage at sea. They were built of mahogany, with timbers of ash,
+both ends exactly alike, and fitted to be steered either with a
+sweep-oar or a rudder. The largest, twenty-six feet long, and five feet
+four inches broad, was adapted for six rowers, a steersman, and an
+officer; it could be borne on the shoulders of six men, and was found,
+on trial, to be capable of carrying three tons weight in addition to the
+crew. The two others were each twenty-four feet long, four feet ten
+inches broad, and were capable of receiving a crew of five men, a
+steersman, and an officer, with an additional weight of two and a half
+tons. The greatest care was paid to their construction by Mr. Cow,
+boat-builder of Woolwich Yard; and, as I could not often be present, my
+friend Captain Buchan, R.N., kindly undertook to report their progress;
+and I am further indebted to him for many valuable suggestions which
+were acted upon.
+
+When the boats were finished, they were tried at Woolwich, in the
+presence of many naval and military officers, as to their qualities of
+sailing, rowing, and paddling, and found to answer fully the
+expectations that had been formed of them. At the same time we tried
+another little vessel belonging to the Expedition, named the
+Walnut-Shell, the invention and construction of which I owe to my friend
+Lieutenant-Colonel Pasley, of the Royal Engineers. Its length was nine
+feet, its breadth four feet four inches, and it was framed of
+well-seasoned ash, fastened with thongs, covered with Mr. Mackintosh's
+prepared canvas, and shaped like one valve of a walnut-shell, whence its
+appellation. It weighed only eighty-five pounds, could, when taken to
+pieces, be made up in five or six parcels, and was capable of being put
+together in less than twenty minutes. So secure was this little vessel,
+that several ladies, who had honoured the trial of the boats with their
+presence, fearlessly embarked in it, and were paddled across the Thames
+in a fresh breeze. It was intended to provide against a similar
+detention in crossing rivers to that which proved so fatal to our party
+on the former journey; and it was also thought, that this little bark
+would be found useful in procuring water-fowl on the small lakes, to
+which the boats could not be conveyed.
+
+In the choice of astronomical instruments I was necessarily guided by
+their portability. Our stock consisted of two small sextants, two
+artificial horizons, two altitude instruments, a repeating circle for
+lunar observations, and a small transit telescope for ascertaining the
+rates of the chronometers. We had a dipping needle mounted on Meyer's
+plan, a plain needle very delicately fitted for observing the diurnal
+variation; two of Kater's azimuth compasses, and a pocket compass for
+each officer. The atmospherical instruments were two electrometers, two
+of Daniel's hygrometers, Leslie's photometer and hygrometer, besides a
+good supply of mercurial and spirit thermometers of different sizes. The
+magnetic instruments were examined in concert with my friend Captain
+Sabine, previous to my departure from London; and the observations that
+were obtained for dip and intensity, served as points of comparison for
+our future results.
+
+The stores consisted of bedding and clothing, including two suits of
+waterproof dresses for each person, prepared by Mr. Mackintosh, of
+Glasgow; our guns had the same bore with the fowling-pieces, supplied by
+the Hudson's Bay Company to the Indian hunters, that is, twenty-eight
+balls to the pound; their locks were tempered to withstand the cold of
+the winter; and a broad Indian dagger, which could also be used as a
+knife, was fitted to them, like a bayonet. Ammunition of the best
+quality was provided by the Ordnance, the powder being secured in small
+field or boat magazines. A quantity of wheaten-flour, arrow-root,
+macaroni, portable-soup, chocolate, essence of coffee, sugar, and tea,
+calculated to last two years, was also supplied, made up into packages
+of eighty-five pounds, and covered with three layers of prepared
+waterproof canvas, of which material coverings for the cargo of each
+boat were also made.
+
+There was likewise an ample stock of tobacco, a small quantity of wine
+and spirits, marquees and tents for the men and officers, some books,
+writing and drawing paper, a considerable quantity of cartridge-paper,
+to be used in preserving specimens of plants; nets, twine, fishing-lines
+and hooks, together with many articles to be used at winter-quarters,
+for the service of the post, and for the supply of our Indian hunters,
+such as cloth, blankets, shirts, coloured belts, chiefs' dresses, combs,
+looking-glasses, beads, tapes, gartering, knives, guns and daggers,
+hatchets, awls, gun-worms, flints, fire-steels, files, whip and
+hand-saws, ice-chisels and trenching-irons, the latter to break open the
+beaver lodges.
+
+As the mode of travelling through the Hudson's Bay territories, with all
+its difficulties and hazards, is now well known to the public, I think
+it better to give in this Introductory Chapter a slight outline of our
+route through the United States, Upper Canada, and Southern part of the
+Fur Countries, and to commence the detailed Narrative of the proceedings
+of the Expedition with its arrival in Methye River, where the officers
+joined the boats that had been sent out from England in the preceding
+year.
+
+On the 16th of February, 1825, I embarked with Lieutenant Back, Dr.
+Richardson, Mr. Kendall, Mr. Drummond, and four marines, at Liverpool,
+on board the American packet-ship, Columbia, Captain Lee; and, on
+quitting the pier, we were honoured by a salute of three animating
+cheers, from a crowd of the principal inhabitants, who had assembled to
+witness our departure. The passage across the Atlantic was favourable
+and pleasant, and our reception at New York kind in the extreme. We
+landed at that city on the 15th of March, and our baggage and stores
+were instantly passed through the Custom-House without inspection. Cards
+of admission to the Public Scientific Institutions were forwarded to us
+the same evening, and during our stay every other mark of attention was
+shown by the civil and naval authorities, as well as by private
+individuals, indicating the lively interest which they took in our
+enterprise.
+
+James Buchanan, Esq., the British Consul, in addition to many other
+attentions, kindly undertook to accommodate a journey he had to make to
+Upper Canada, so as to accompany us through the State of New York. After
+a stay of eight days in the city, for the purpose of obtaining the rates
+of the chronometers, and for making some other observations with Meyer's
+dipping needle, we embarked under the Consul's guidance, in the
+steam-boat Olive Branch, and ascended the Hudson River, to Albany, where
+we experienced similar civilities to those we had received at New York.
+Every body seemed to desire our success, and a fervent prayer for our
+preservation and welfare was offered up by the Reverend Dr. Christie,
+the minister of the church that we attended. The Honourable De Witt
+Clinton, the Governor of the State, assured me, that had we not been
+accompanied by a gentleman so conversant in the different routes and
+modes of travelling as Mr. Buchanan, he would have sent his son with us,
+or would himself have conducted us to the confines of the State.
+
+From Albany, we travelled through Utica, Rochester, and Geneva, to
+Leweston, in coaches, with more or less rapidity, according to the
+condition of the roads; and, crossing the river Niagara, entered Canada,
+and visited the Falls so justly celebrated as the first in the world for
+grandeur. We next crossed Lake Ontario in a sailing boat, and came to
+York the capital of Upper Canada, where we were kindly received by the
+Lieutenant-Governor Sir Peregrine Maitland, and by Colonel Cockburn and
+the Commissioners then employed on an inquiry respecting the value of
+the Crown Lands. From York we passed on to Lake Simcoe, in carts and
+other conveyances, halting for a night at the hospitable house of Mr.
+Robinson of Newmarket. We crossed Lake Simcoe in canoes and boats, and
+landed near the upper part of Kempenfeldt Bay, but not without being
+obliged to break our way through the ice for a short distance. A journey
+of nine miles, performed on foot, brought us to the River Nattawassaga,
+which we descended in a boat; and passing through a part of Lake Huron,
+arrived at Penetanguishene. At this place, we were hospitably
+entertained by Lieutenant, now Captain Douglass, during eight days that
+we waited for the arrival of our Canadian voyagers from Montreal.
+
+We left Penetanguishene on St. George's day (23d April) in the two large
+canoes, which had been deposited at that place in the preceding autumn,
+our party, by the accession of the voyagers, now amounted to
+thirty-three; and after a few days detention by ice, and bad weather, we
+reached Sault de St. Marie on the 1st of May, being ten days or a
+fortnight earlier than the oldest resident remembered a canoe from
+Canada to have arrived. From the Sault de St. Marie, we coasted the
+northern shore of Lake Superior to Fort William, formerly the great
+depot of the N.W. Company, where we arrived on the 10th of May. We now
+exchanged our two _canots de maitre_ for four small north canoes, in one
+of which, more lightly laden, Dr. Richardson and I embarked, with the
+view of proceeding as rapidly as possible to arrange supplies of
+provision at the different posts, while Lieutenant Back was left to
+bring up the three remaining and more deeply laden canoes.
+
+We proceeded by the route delineated in the maps through Rainy Lake, the
+Lake of the Woods, Lake Winipeg, and the Saskatchawan River to
+Cumberland House, where we arrived on the 15th of June, and learned that
+our boats had left that place on the 2d of the same month. We found also
+with deep regret, that Thomas Mathews, the principal carpenter who had
+accompanied the boats from England, had had the misfortune to break his
+leg the evening before their departure. But, fortunately, an officer of
+the Hudson's Bay Company then present, had sufficient skill to set it,
+and Dr. Richardson now pronounced that in two months he would be able to
+come on in one of the Company's canoes, and join us at Bear Lake, which
+he was very desirous of doing. I therefore made arrangements to this
+effect, and also concerning supplies for Mr. Drummond the Assistant
+Naturalist, who was to be employed, during our stay in the north, in
+making collections in the vicinity of the Rocky Mountains.
+
+Having remained one night at Cumberland House, we resumed our voyage,
+and passing through Pine Island Lake, Beaver Lake, crossing the Frog
+Portage, and ascending the English River, with its dilatations, named
+Bear Island, Sandfly, Serpent, Primeau, and Isle a la Crosse Lakes, we
+came to the post situated on, and named from the latter sheet of water,
+at four P.M. on the 25th June. In the course of this voyage, we met the
+Gentlemen of the Hudson's Bay Company proceeding from the interior with
+various brigades of canoes, carrying the returns of trade for the year
+to York Factory, and I had not only the satisfaction of hearing frequent
+news of the progress of our boats, but that the deposits of provisions I
+had requested, and the other arrangements I had made, were all
+punctually carried into effect. Mr. Spencer, the gentleman in charge at
+Isle a la Crosse, informed us, that the boats had gone off a few hours
+previous to our arrival, with the addition of a bateau laden with
+pemmican, under the charge of Mr. Fraser, a clerk of the Hudson's Bay
+Company.
+
+I waited at this establishment one night to obtain astronomical
+observations, and to bespeak an additional quantity of provisions, &c.,
+which being satisfactorily done, we resumed our voyage on the 27th, and,
+passing through Deep River, Clear and Buffalo Lakes, overtook the boats
+in Methye River, at sunrise on the 29th of June.
+
+Having brought this preliminary sketch up to the date at which the
+ensuing Narrative of the proceedings of the Expedition commences, I turn
+to the pleasing duty of rendering my best thanks to the many gentlemen
+who have assisted me in forwarding its progress. To the Right Honourable
+Earl Bathurst, I am greatly indebted for the readiness with which he
+attended to every suggestion I had to make regarding the equipment of
+the Expedition, and to the Right Honourable Wilmot Horton, the Under
+Colonial Secretary, for his kindness and promptitude in facilitating all
+my views. Nor can I feel less grateful to Lord Viscount Melville, and to
+the Lords Commissioners of the Admiralty for their patronage and
+support, as well as to Sir Byam Martin, the Comptroller, and to the
+Commissioners of the Navy and Victualling offices, for the arrangements
+depending on their boards. Mr. Pelly, the Governor of the Hudson's Bay
+Company, and Mr. Garry, the Deputy-Governor, as well as every Member of
+its Committee, claim my most sincere thanks for their unremitting
+endeavours to promote the welfare of the Expedition through its whole
+progress; and I feel truly obliged to Mr. Simpson, the Governor in the
+Fur Countries; to Mr. M'Tavish, Mr. Haldane, Mr. M'Donald, Mr. Leith,
+Mr. Stuart, and Messrs. James and George Keith, Chief Factors, who,
+acting in the spirit of their instructions, were very assiduous in
+collecting provisions and stores for the use of my party, and in
+forwarding all our supplies. There were other gentlemen resident in the
+more northern parts of the country, to whom I am no less obliged for
+advice and assistance; but the brevity requisite in this place
+necessarily compels me to refer to the Narrative, where their names,
+and the services they rendered, are mentioned.
+
+I cannot, however, close this introductory Chapter, without expressing
+the deepest obligation to those kind friends and excellent officers with
+whom I had the happiness of being associated, who constantly aided me by
+their most cordial co-operation, and whose best efforts were devotedly
+applied to every pursuit which could be interesting to science. Nor can
+I omit to mention the gratitude I owe to each of the seamen, marines,
+British and Canadian voyagers who composed our party at the
+winter-quarters, for their steady obedience and truly good conduct,
+whether in the days of relaxation during the winter, or in the more
+arduous exertions of our summer occupations.
+
+
+
+
+OFFICIAL INSTRUCTIONS.
+
+
+_Downing-street, 31st Jan. 1825._
+
+SIR,
+
+His Majesty's Government having decided that an Expedition should be set
+forth, for the purpose of exploring the Northern Coast of America,
+between the Mouth of Mackenzie's River, and the Strait of Behring; and
+confiding in your zeal and experience for the due execution of this
+service, I have recommended you as a proper person to be charged with
+the same. You are, therefore, to proceed with your party (a list of whom
+is annexed) by the Packet from Liverpool to New York, and from thence
+make the best of your way to Lake Huron, where the stores necessary for
+your journey have already been sent. Embarking in Canoes, you are from
+thence to follow the water communication to the western side of the
+Great Bear Lake, where you are to establish your winter-quarters; and
+having so done, your first care should be to endeavour to open a
+friendly communication with the Esquimaux.
+
+Early in the Spring of 1826, you are to proceed down the Mackenzie River
+with all the necessary stores and provisions, in order to be prepared to
+take advantage of the first opening of the ice on the Polar Sea, so as
+to enable you to prosecute your voyage along the coast to Icy Cape,
+round which you are to proceed to Kotzebue's Inlet, where you may expect
+to find His Majesty's Ship Blossom, which the Lords Commissioners of the
+Admiralty will order to proceed to that rendezvous, in the Summer of
+1826. But if, on your arrival at Icy Cape, or the northern point of
+Behring's Strait, you should be of opinion that you could, with safety,
+return the same season to the established winter-quarters, you are at
+liberty to do so, instead of proceeding to join the Blossom. You will,
+therefore, without loss of time, settle with Captain Beechey, her
+commander, such a plan as may appear to you, both, best adapted for
+ensuring your meeting together, and establish a code of signals, or
+devise such other means as may tend to give you information, if
+possible, previous to your reaching the longitude of Icy Cape.
+
+On your arrival at the mouth of Mackenzie River, you are to despatch Dr.
+Richardson with Mr. Kendall and five or six men, in one of the boats, to
+examine the intermediate coast between the Mackenzie and Coppermine
+Rivers; but if you should find that the stores and provisions you have
+been able to accumulate are not sufficient for your own and Dr.
+Richardson's party, you are, in that case, to direct Dr. Richardson to
+employ himself and party on shore, in examining the country contiguous
+to the Mackenzie River, the Rocky Mountains, the shores of the Great
+Bear Lake, the Copper Mountains, and as far round as he can with safety,
+collecting specimens of the animals, plants, and minerals, and also
+laying in a stock of provisions sufficient for both parties, if, by any
+unforeseen accident, you should find yourself compelled to return
+without reaching the Blossom.
+
+If, in proceeding westerly towards Icy Cape, you should make but slow
+progress, and find yourself impeded by ice or land jutting out to the
+northward farther than is calculated upon, or from accidents to the
+boats, or any other unforeseen circumstance, so that it remains doubtful
+whether you will be able to reach the neighbourhood of Kotzebue's Inlet
+the same season, you are not to consider yourself authorized to risk
+yourself and party to the chance of being obliged to winter on the
+coast, but commence your return about the 15th or 20th of August to the
+established winter-quarters on Bear Lake, unless you should be satisfied
+that yourself and party could pass the winter with safety among the
+Esquimaux, and that there was afforded a certainty of your reaching
+Behring's Strait the following Season, when the Blossom will again
+proceed to the appointed rendezvous.
+
+In the event of your reaching Kotzebue's Inlet, the first season,
+Captain Beechey will be instructed to convey you and your party in the
+Blossom to the Sandwich Islands or Canton, as may seem most advisable to
+you, from whence you will be able to take a passage to England in one of
+the Company's Ships or Private Traders; and you will leave such
+instructions with Dr. Richardson for his guidance, in the event of your
+being able to accomplish this point, as you may deem fit and proper for
+his return to England.
+
+In the event of your death, or any accident which may prevent your
+proceeding, the command of the Expedition must necessarily devolve on
+Lieutenant Back, who is to follow these Instructions; but he is not to
+alter any arrangement with regard to Dr. Richardson's proceedings which
+you may have settled for him to pursue, the principal object of Dr.
+Richardson's accompanying you, being that of completing, as far as can
+be done, our knowledge of the Natural History of North America.
+Lieutenant Back will, therefore, in the event above-mentioned, act in
+concert with Dr. Richardson, but not direct him and his party from any
+plan of operations which he and you may previously have settled.
+
+You will take care to inform me from time to time, as opportunities may
+occur, of your proceedings, and the progress made in the Expedition,
+with the direction of which you are hereby entrusted.
+
+  I have the honour to be,
+    Sir,
+      Your most obedient Servant,
+        BATHURST.
+
+ _To Captain Franklin, R.N.,
+ &c. &c. &c._
+
+
+
+
+SECOND JOURNEY TO THE SHORES OF THE POLAR SEA.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+Join the boats in the Methye River--Cross the Long Portage--Arrival to
+Fort Chipewyan--Departure from thence with the whole party for Mackenzie
+River--Arrangements at Fort Norman--Descent to the Sea--Return to the
+Winter Quarters at Great Bear Lake.
+
+
+The boats of the Expedition had advanced from Hudson's Bay into the
+interior, twelve hundred miles, before they were joined by the officers;
+whilst the latter, from taking a more circuitous route by New York and
+Canada, as shown in the introductory chapter, travelled two thousand and
+eight hundred miles, to reach the same point.
+
+[Sidenote: June 29.] This junction took place early in the morning of
+the 29th of June, 1825, in the Methye River, latitude 56 degrees 10
+minutes N., longitude 108 degrees 55 minutes W., which is almost at the
+head of the waters that flow from the north into Hudson's Bay.
+
+In no part of the journey was the presence of the officers more
+requisite to animate and encourage the crews, because the river itself,
+beside being obstructed by three impassable rapids, is usually so
+shallow, through its whole course of forty miles, as scarcely to admit
+of a flat-bottomed bateau floating with half its cargo, much less our
+boats, which drew, when loaded, from eighteen to twenty inches. This
+river and its impediments being surmounted, the Methye Portage, ten
+miles and three quarters long, was at no great distance, which is always
+held up to the inexperienced voyager as the most laborious part of the
+journey. But whatever apprehensions the men might have entertained on
+this subject, seemed to vanish on our landing amongst them; and Dr.
+Richardson and myself were received by all with cheerful, delighted
+countenances, and by none more warmly than by our excellent friend and
+former interpreter Augustus the Esquimaux, and Ooligbuck, whom he had
+brought from Churchill, as his companion. A breakfast was quickly
+prepared by Mr. Fraser, a clerk of the Hudson's Bay Company, under whose
+charge the boats had been, since their departure from Cumberland House;
+and I then inspected the boats and stores, which I was rejoiced to find
+were in good order. We had brought letters from the relatives of several
+of the party, and another hour was allowed to read them.
+
+At ten A.M. we began to ascend the stream, but very soon found that it
+was necessary for the whole party to walk in the water, and drag the
+boats through the mud. Nor could we long advance even by this mode, but
+were compelled either to carry some of the cargo along the shore, where
+walking was at all practicable, or else to take half the lading in a
+boat to a part where the river was deeper, and then return for the
+remainder. From thus travelling the distance twice over, it was the
+fifth day before we reached the lake from whence its waters flow.
+
+[Sidenote: Thursday, 30.] On the evening of the 30th of June, we
+witnessed one of those violent but momentary gusts of wind which occur
+not unfrequently in the spring and autumn, and which prove so
+destructive to the forests in this country. It was preceded by calm and
+very sultry weather, with loud thunder and vivid lightning. In an
+instant the tents were overthrown, and even very large trees were bent
+by its force into a horizontal position; indeed, for a few seconds, the
+scene around us appeared one of almost entire devastation. When the
+violence of the squall was past, we had great reason to be pleased at
+its occurrence, for the strong steady breeze and heavy rain that
+succeeded, carried away the myriads of musquitoes by which we had been
+tormented the whole day.
+
+[Sidenote: Monday, 4.] Having crossed the Methye Lake, we arrived at the
+portage of that name. Here it was necessary to make an equal division of
+the cargoes, and to devise means for the conveyance of the boats. The
+packages amounted to one hundred and sixteen, weighing from seventy to
+ninety pounds each, exclusive of the three boats and the men's personal
+luggage; and there were nineteen men of the boats' crews, two
+Canadians, and two boys, to carry these burdens. At first the packages
+were equally distributed among this party; but several of the men, who
+had been reduced by their previous exertions, became lame: among these
+were the Esquimaux, and we were, therefore, compelled to make other
+arrangements, and ultimately to employ the crew of my canoe, though the
+great fatigue they had suffered in our rapid journey from
+Penetanguishene, made me desirous of sparing them for the present.
+
+The boats were the heaviest and most difficult articles to transport.
+One of the small boats was carried on the shoulders of eight men, of
+whom Mr. Fraser undertook to be one, as an example to the rest. Another
+of the same size was dragged by another eight men; and the largest was
+conveyed on a truck made for the purpose on the spot, to which service
+the lame were attached.
+
+Each day's journey, and also the intermediate stages, were determined by
+the places where water could be procured, and our mode of travelling was
+as follows:--Rising at three A.M., the men carried a part of their
+burden to the first stage, and continued to go backwards and forwards
+till the whole was deposited. They then slept for a few hours, and in
+the cool of the evening the boats were brought up. [Sidenote: Monday,
+11th.] By these means every thing was ready at the western end of the
+portage early on Monday, the 11th of July. The slight injuries which the
+boats had received, principally from exposure to the sun, were soon
+repaired; they were put into the water to tighten, and the whole party
+were allowed to rest.
+
+With reference to the Methye Portage I may remark, that, except the
+steep hill at its western extremity, the road is good and tolerably
+level, and it appeared to us that much fatigue and suffering might have
+been spared by using trucks. Accordingly two were made by our carpenters
+at Fort Chipewyan, in 1827, for the return of the Expedition, and they
+answered extremely well. I mention this circumstance, in the hope that
+some such expedient will be adopted by the Traders for the relief of
+their voyagers, who have twice in every year to pass over this ridge of
+hills.
+
+[Sidenote: Tuesday 12th.] Being now in a fair way to reach the Athabasca
+Lake, Dr. Richardson and I embarked, on the 12th, in the canoe, to
+proceed to Fort Chipewyan, for the purpose of preparing the gentleman in
+charge for the reception of the party.
+
+By noon we got over the four Portages on Clear-Water river, and
+descended, with some trouble, the series of rapids that follow them.
+Once below these, the passage to the lake is generally considered as
+free from fatigue; but we did not find it so, for, owing to the
+shallowness of the water, the men had to get out and drag the canoe in
+several places. The difference between the depth of water now and in
+other years at the same period, was attributed to the snow having fallen
+in the preceding autumn before the frost was sufficiently intense to
+harden the ground, and, consequently, much of the moisture had
+penetrated the earth, which, under other circumstances, would have
+remained in a frozen state, for the supply of the river at the spring
+thaw.
+
+In the course of the night we were under much alarm for one of our men,
+who having incautiously lain down to sleep under a wet sail, while the
+rain was pouring heavily, was seized with a cramp in the stomach, and
+violent pain in the head. Having been brought into the tent and covered
+with blankets, he became better before morning, but not sufficiently
+strong to allow of our setting off at the usual hour. [Sidenote:
+Wednesday, 13th.] We entered the Elk, or Athabasca River, at three P.M.,
+on the 13th, and were carried swiftly down by its current to the
+Hudson's Bay Company's post named Berens House, where we stayed the
+night. Here we received a supply of dried meat. [Sidenote: Friday,
+15th.] We safely arrived in the Athabasca Lake on the 15th, by the
+channel of the "Riviere des Eaux remuees;" but in the subsequent
+traverse between Bustard Island and Fort Chipewyan the canoe was in
+danger of foundering in a sudden gale. Two large waves broke with full
+force into it, and obliged us to bear away and steer for the nearest
+shore; but the men having soon rested, and being now sheltered by
+islands, we pushed on to Fort Chipewyan. Our arrival there caused great
+surprise to its inmates, when they learned that we had come from England
+to that advanced post so early in the season, being only two days later
+than the time at which Dr. Richardson and Mr. Hood had arrived in 1819,
+though they passed the winter at Cumberland House.
+
+The stores at Fort Chipewyan being well furnished with warm clothing,
+and other articles, which we required for the use of the men and Indians
+at winter-quarters, I availed myself of the permission which the chief
+factor of this department, Mr. James Keith, had given me to complete our
+stock of cloth, blankets, nets, and twine, to a quantity sufficient for
+two years' consumption. A supply of twine was indispensable, because,
+by a letter from Mr. Dease, I had learned that the meshes of the nets
+made in England, of the size generally required for fishing throughout
+this country, were too large for the smaller fish that frequent that
+part of Bear Lake where our house was to be constructed. Mr. Campbell,
+the clerk in charge, cheerfully gave me the benefit of his experience in
+making out lists of such things as we were likely to want, and in
+assorting and packing them.
+
+[Sidenote: Monday, 18th.] The boats rejoined on the 18th, and the crews
+were allowed the following day to recruit themselves. A party of Indians
+came very opportunely with fresh meat, which is always an agreeable
+change to the voyager, who has generally to live on dried provision. The
+Indians, as well as the women and children of the fort, spent the
+greater part of the day by the side of our boats, admiring their whole
+equipment, but more especially the gay figures painted on them. Many of
+these were different from any animals or representations they had seen,
+and, judging from the bursts of laughter, some curious remarks were made
+on them.
+
+[Sidenote: Wednesday, 20th.] It being necessary that I should await the
+arrival of Lieutenant Back's canoes, Dr. Richardson undertook to proceed
+with the boats towards Slave Lake. Their lading was now increased by the
+bales already mentioned, as well as by several bags of pemmican, which
+Mr. Keith had stored up for our use. The crews, however, were reduced by
+the discharge of three Englishmen, at their own desire, who thought
+themselves unequal to the fatigue of the service.
+
+[Sidenote: Saturday, 23d.] I had the happiness, on the 23rd, of
+welcoming my friends, Lieutenant Back and Mr. Kendall, on their arrival
+with three canoes. Their journey from Fort William had been expeditious,
+notwithstanding the detention of eighteen days, by bad weather, on the
+road. A serious misfortune had happened at the very outset of the
+journey, through the unskilfulness of one of the bowmen, in allowing his
+canoe to turn round and get before the current, while attempting to
+ascend the Barrier Rapid, by which it was driven against a stone with
+such force, as to be overset and broken. The stores were fortunately
+saved, though completely drenched; but many of the delicate
+atmospherical instruments were broken. Mr. Kendall was despatched to
+Fort William for another canoe while the things were drying.
+
+On a subsequent occasion, in the Winipeg River, the same man placed his
+canoe in such a situation, as to endanger its being hurried down a steep
+fall, and had it not been for the coolness of a man, named Lavalle, who
+jumped into the water and held the canoe, while the rest of the crew
+arranged themselves so as to drag it into a place of safety, every life
+must have been sacrificed. The success, indeed the safety of this kind
+of river navigation, among currents and rapids, depends on the skill of
+the bowman; and after these proofs of his incapacity, Lieutenant Back
+very properly engaged a substitute at the first fort to which he came.
+
+At another time, in the Sturgeon-weir River, the canoe in which Mr.
+Kendall was embarked, having been accidentally driven before the
+current, she was only saved from destruction by his own powerful
+exertion and activity.
+
+These short details will convey an idea of the anxiety and trouble these
+officers experienced in their journey to Chipewyan.
+
+The party and the stores having now passed the more difficult part of
+the road, I discharged as many of the Canadians as could be spared, and
+furnished them with a canoe to take them home. Some went to Montreal;
+and they were the first persons who had ever gone from that place to
+Chipewyan, and returned in the same season.
+
+[Sidenote: Monday, 25th.] The greater part of the 25th was employed in
+obtaining astronomical observations, the results of which, we were
+delighted to find, placed Fort Chipewyan within a few seconds of
+longitude of the position in which it had been laid down on the former
+Expedition. Our present azimuth compasses showed an increase in
+variation, since 1820, of 2 degrees 16 minutes E. The dip was observed
+81 degrees 26 minutes 47 seconds.
+
+Fort Chipewyan was this summer visited, for the first time, by a large
+flight of swallows, resembling the house-martins of England. They came
+in a body on the 25th of June, and immediately began to construct their
+earthy nests under the ledge of the south-front of the house. Some barn
+or forked-tail swallows also arrived on the 15th of June, and took
+possession of the store-houses and garrets, as they had in former years
+done. Some of the young of the last-mentioned birds were sporting on the
+tops of the houses as early as the 17th of July.
+
+At sunset we embarked in four canoes, one having been procured here. The
+descent to Slave Lake occupied four days, and was unattended with any
+circumstance deserving mention, except that two of the canoes were
+broken in consequence of the guide mistaking the proper channel in a
+rapid; fortunately, these bark vessels are soon repaired, and we had
+only to regret the delay the accident occasioned.
+
+We halted at the Salt River to take in salt, as we found, by a note left
+here, Dr. Richardson had done. The geese were moulting at this time, and
+unable to fly; they afforded us much sport in their chase, and an
+excellent supper every night.
+
+A body of Indians were waiting near the entrance of the lake to welcome
+our arrival; they were so numerous, that we were forced to omit our
+general custom of giving a small present to each native, and thus
+incurred the charge of stinginess, which the loud vociferations they
+raised on our setting sail, were probably meant to convey.
+
+[Sidenote: Friday, 29th.] At six, on the evening of the 29th, we reached
+Fort Resolution, the only establishment now at Slave Lake, and we felt
+happy in being once more under the roof of our hospitable friend, Mr.
+Robert M'Vicar, to whom I am much indebted for the excellent order in
+which he had brought up our supplies from Canada in the preceding year.
+Dr. Richardson, after a halt of two days, had gone forward with the
+boats.
+
+All the portages on the road to Bear Lake being now passed, the
+Canadians made a request, that we would allow them to commemorate the
+event by a dance. It met with a ready compliance; and though they had
+been paddling for thirty-six out of the thirty-nine preceding hours,
+they kept up their favourite amusement until daylight, to the music of
+bagpipes, relieved occasionally by the Jews' harp.
+
+We rejoiced to find at this post our worthy old Copper-Indian friends,
+Keskarrah and Humpy, the brother of Akaitcho, who had been waiting two
+months for the express purpose of seeing us. These excellent men showed
+that their gratification equalled ours, by repeatedly seizing our hands
+and pressing them against their hearts, and exclaiming, "How much we
+regret that we cannot tell what we feel for you here!" Akaitcho had left
+the fort about two months on a hunting excursion, hoping to return, with
+plenty of provision for our use, by the middle of August, which was as
+early as he thought we should arrive. Keskarrah confirmed the melancholy
+report we had heard in the more southern districts, that most of the
+hunters who had been in our service at Fort Enterprise, had been
+treacherously murdered, with many others of the tribe, by the Dog-Ribs,
+with which nation we also learned the Copper-Indians had been at war,
+since the year of our departure from them, till the last spring. The
+peace had been effected through the mediation of Messrs. Dease and
+M'Vicar, and we were gratified to find that Akaitcho and his tribe had
+been principally induced to make this reconciliation, by a desire that
+no impediment might be placed in the way of our present expedition. "We
+have too much esteem," said Akaitcho, "for our father, and for the
+service in which he is about to be again engaged, to impede its success
+by our wars, and, therefore, they shall cease;" and on being asked by
+Mr. Dease whether he and some of his young men would go to hunt for the
+party at our winter quarters, he replied, "Our hearts will be with them,
+but we will not go to those parts where the bones of our murdered
+brethren lie, for fear our bad passions should be aroused at the sight
+of their graves, and that we should be tempted to renew the war by the
+recollection of the manner of their death. Let the Dog-Ribs who live in
+the neighbourhood of Bear Lake furnish them with meat, though they are
+our enemies." Such sentiments would do honour to any state of
+civilization, and show that the most refined feelings may animate the
+most untutored people. Happily we were now so circumstanced as to be
+able to reward the friendship of these good men by allotting from our
+stores a liberal present to the principal persons. On the delivery of
+the articles to Keskarrah and Humpy, I desired them to communicate to
+Akaitcho, and the whole tribe, the necessity of their strictly adhering
+to the terms of peace, and assured them that I should not fail to urge
+the same obligations on the Dog-Ribs. A silver royal medal, such as is
+given to the Indian chiefs in Upper Canada, was likewise left with Mr.
+M'Vicar, to be presented to Akaitcho, as a further mark of our regard
+for his former services and present good wishes.
+
+[Sidenote: Sunday, 31st.] The party was detained at Fort Resolution
+until this morning by a strong south-west gale; and even when we
+embarked, the wind and waves were still high, but time was too precious
+to allow of our waiting when there was a prospect of making any advance.
+As our future course inclined to the westward, we now quitted the track
+of the former journey to Fort Enterprise, along which we had been
+travelling from Lake Winipeg. We first steered for the Buffalo River,
+and then along the south shore of Slave Lake, obtained the latitude 61
+degrees 1 minute N. at noon, and afterwards the longitude 114 degrees
+18-1/2 minutes W. at the Isle of the Dead. The islands and shores of
+this part of the lake are composed of horizontal beds of limestone,
+containing pitch and shells.
+
+A small party of Chipewyan Indians, with their principal chief, joined
+us at the encampment, from whom we learned that they had supplied Dr.
+Richardson with dried meat the preceding noon, at Hay River. The Chief
+was very importunate for rum, but I steadily adhered to the
+determination I had formed this time, on my entering the Fur Country, of
+not giving spirits to any Indian. A share of our supper and tea, and
+some tobacco, were offered to him, and accepted, though with a bad
+grace. The Fur Company ceased the following season to bring any rum to
+this quarter, and I learned that this man was one of the few natives who
+were highly displeased at this judicious change.
+
+[Sidenote: Monday, 1st.] We coasted this day along the low shore of the
+lake, steering from point to point to avoid the sinuosities of several
+deep bays, and passed the mouth of the Sandy and Hay Rivers, whose
+positions we settled by astronomical observations.
+
+[Sidenote: Tuesday, 2nd.] On the 2nd we came to the narrow part between
+the Big Island of Mackenzie, and the main shore, and perceived that a
+gentle current was setting towards the Mackenzie river. The water in
+this strait is very shallow, and also in many places near the south
+shore, though we know, from trial, on the former Expedition, that the
+depth of the east end of the lake, at a distance from the land, exceeds
+sixty and seventy fathoms. The beach, both of the north and south shores
+of the strait, is strewed with drift timber. In clear weather the north
+shore is visible from the point of the south shore nearest Big Island.
+
+Below this _detroit_ the shores recede so as to form a small shallow
+lake, about twenty-four miles long, by from four to twelve miles broad,
+near the north-west end of which we encamped, in latitude 61 degrees 15
+minutes N., longitude 117 degrees 6 minutes W. This spot may be
+considered as the commencement of Mackenzie River. The ground is very
+swampy, and nourishes willows only; but inland, at a short distance from
+the beach, grow plenty of the spruce-fir, poplar, aspen, and birch
+trees; and among the underwood, numerous shrubs and berry-bearing
+plants.
+
+[Sidenote: Wednesday, 3rd.] On the 3rd we travelled to another
+contraction of the river about one mile broad, through which the current
+sets between high banks with such force as to form strong eddies. There
+are likewise in this part many sandy islands, and through the channels
+between them the current rushed with no less rapidity than in that we
+descended. For distinction's sake, these islands have been named the
+"Isles of the Rapid:" below them occurs another expansion, which is
+called by the voyagers "The Little Lake;" and Sandy Point at its
+north-west end, is considered by them as the commencement of the
+Mackenzie River.
+
+When abreast of this point, a favouring breeze enabled us to use the
+sail as well as the paddles, and with the assistance of the current
+great progress was made. We had occasional glimpses of the Horn and
+Rein-Deer Mountains as we passed along; but, until we were some way
+below the rapids, our view was very limited, owing to the woods being on
+fire in almost every direction. This I should have mentioned to have
+been the case in many parts between Isle a la Crosse and the Mackenzie.
+The cause of these extensive conflagrations I could not learn; some
+attributed them to voluntary acts of the Indians, and others to their
+negligence in leaving their fires burning.
+
+We put up at sunset on a beach of gravel under a well-wooded bank of
+moderate height, and the party regaled themselves with raspberries and
+other indigenous fruits.
+
+[Sidenote: Thursday, 4th.] At half past two A.M., on the 4th, the canoes
+were again on the water, and being driven by sail and current, made good
+way. We stopped at the Trout River, which flows in from the southward,
+and ascertained its longitude 119 degrees 47 minutes W. The breadth of
+the Mackenzie is here about two miles, and its banks are composed of a
+muddy clay: the stones on the beach mostly limestone, with some boulders
+of primitive rocks. The trees are of the kinds we had seen north of the
+Athabasca Lake: they are here of a smaller size. Five miles below this
+part, the Mackenzie is divided into several channels by islands, and the
+current runs with increased swiftness, and strong eddies.
+
+The latitude 61 degrees 26 minutes 30 seconds N. was obtained at noon;
+it was the same as on the preceding day; so that our course, in the
+interval, had been due west.
+
+The banks now were higher, and for the next forty miles the breadth of
+the stream did not exceed one mile, nor was less than half a mile; its
+course inclined more to the north. We passed the site of the first
+establishment that the North-West Company had made in these parts, which
+was erected by Mr. Livingstone, one of the partners, who, with the whole
+of the crew of his canoe, except one individual, were massacred by the
+Esquimaux on the first attempt to open a trade with them.
+
+At three P.M. a picturesque view opened upon us of a distant range of
+mountains running east and west, and nearly at right angles to the
+course of the river. The current being considerably increased by the
+contribution of some streams near this place, we descended very swiftly.
+Six miles below Pine Island, there is a strong but not a dangerous
+rapid; and about fifteen miles farther is Fort Simpson, the principal
+depot of the Hudson Bay Company for this department, at which we arrived
+by eight P.M., and thus escaped a very wet, comfortless night. Dr.
+Richardson had departed for Fort Norman the preceding day.
+
+This establishment, three hundred and thirty-eight miles from Fort
+Resolution on Slave Lake, is situated at the confluence of the River of
+the Mountains and the Mackenzie. The former is the channel of
+communication with a fur post not far distant from the Rocky Mountain
+Range, from whence the residents here procure much of their provision,
+including a tolerable supply of potatoes, which have been recently
+introduced from the southern parts. Mr. Smith, the chief factor of the
+district, was fortunately at Fort Simpson, so that I had the opportunity
+of arranging with him as to supplies of provision or stores that my
+party might require during its residence at Bear Lake. He cheerfully
+acceded to every suggestion that was made, and likewise furnished me
+with a letter of instruction to the same effect, addressed to the
+gentleman in charge of the lower posts.
+
+I learned from Mr. Smith that, as yet, a few only of the Indians who
+live nearest the mouth of the river, and none of the Esquimaux, had been
+apprized of our intended visit, the traders at the lower posts having
+considered that it would be better to defer this communication until we
+should arrive in the river, for fear of disappointing these people,
+which might have been attended with unpleasant results.
+
+There were two Canadians here belonging to the Expedition, whom Mr.
+Dease had sent to serve as guides to Bear Lake. By letters which they
+brought, I was informed that Indian hunters were engaged, and the
+necessary buildings in course of preparation for our reception. As Fort
+Simpson had been short of ammunition during the summer from some
+accidental cause, I was glad to find that Mr. Dease had been enabled to
+lend from our stores a barrel of powder, and a bag of balls and I now
+increased the loan, so as to meet the probable demands of the Indians,
+until the Company's supplies should arrive, when they would return to
+Fort Norman the whole of what we had lent. Cloudy weather limited our
+astronomical observations at this place to the dip of the needle, which
+was observed 81 degrees 54 minutes.
+
+[Sidenote: Friday, 5th.] We quitted the fort on the 5th, soon after noon,
+whence the river preserving nearly a straight course for fifteen miles,
+gradually extends itself to nearly two miles in breadth; in its channel
+there are three islands. At two P.M. we obtained the first glimpse of
+the Rocky Mountains, and kept them in view until we encamped, which was
+early, as the canoes required gumming. The outline of the mountains was
+very peaked, and at their easternmost part was a cone-shaped hill,
+higher than the rest, whose summit was veiled by clouds. The general
+appearance of the range somewhat reminded me of the east end of Jamaica.
+
+[Sidenote: Saturday, 6th.] The morning of the 6th was beautifully fine:
+we embarked at 2h 30m A.M., and by seven came within six or seven miles
+of the mountain range, where the river suddenly changes its course from
+W.b.N. to north, in longitude 123 degrees 31 minutes W.
+
+A distinct stratification was perceptible on the face of the nearest
+mountain: on one side of a nearly perpendicular ravine the strata dip to
+the southward at an angle of 25 degrees; whilst on the other they are
+nearly horizontal. There was a large accumulation of debris at its base:
+every part of the hill was destitute of vegetation. Its altitude was
+guessed at one thousand two hundred feet.
+
+At noon, in latitude 62 degrees 49 minutes N., we saw a chain of
+mountains, on the eastern side of the river, similar in their outline
+and general character to those hitherto seen only on the opposite bank.
+Between these ranges the river flowed in a channel two miles broad; but
+as we advanced we receded from those on the western side, their
+direction being W.N.W. In the brilliancy of the sunshine, the surfaces
+of some of the eastern hills, which were entirely bare, appeared white
+as marble, and for some time we fancied them to be covered with snow. By
+four P.M. we reached the Rocky Island mentioned by Mackenzie, where,
+from the river being contracted, the current flowed with great rapidity,
+and soon brought us opposite to the remarkable hill close by the river
+side, which that persevering traveller ascended in July, 1789. His
+account renders a description of it unnecessary. It is composed of
+limestone, and is about four hundred feet high.
+
+We continued a N.b.W. course for eight miles, and encamped at sunset,
+having travelled this day one hundred and twenty miles. A small supply
+of fresh deer's meat was obtained from some Dog-Rib Indians. Their
+canoes were made of the bark of the pine-tree, sewn at the ends and top
+with the fibrous parts of the root of that tree, leaving only a space
+sufficient for the legs of the sitter.
+
+[Sidenote: Sunday, 7th.] We pursued our course at dawn of day, and at
+the end of a few miles came to a more winding part of the river, where
+the stream is interrupted by numerous sand banks and shoals which we had
+some trouble to get round. Mr. Kendall, in his Journal, remarks of this
+part, "That bubbles of air continually rose to the surface with a
+hissing noise resembling the effervescence produced by pouring water on
+quick lime."
+
+We arrived at Fort Norman at ten, A.M., distant two hundred and
+thirty-six miles from Fort Simpson, and five hundred and seventy-four
+from Fort Resolution.
+
+Being now only four days' journey from Bear Lake, and there remaining
+yet five or six weeks of open season, I resolved on following up a plan
+of a voyage to the sea, which I had cherished ever since leaving
+England, without imparting it to my companions, until our departure from
+Fort Chipewyan, because I was apprehensive that some unforeseen accident
+might occur in the course of the very intricate and dangerous river
+navigation between Fort William and the Athabasca Lake, which might
+delay our arrival here to too late a period of the year. It was
+arranged, _first_, that I should go down to the sea, accompanied by Mr.
+Kendall, and collect whatever information could be obtained, either from
+actual observation, or from the intelligence of the Loucheux Indians, or
+the Esquimaux, respecting the general state of the ice in the summer and
+autumn; the direction of the coast, east and west of the Mackenzie; and
+whether we might calculate upon any supply of provision. _Secondly_, Dr.
+Richardson, on his own suggestion was to proceed in a boat along the
+northern shore of Bear Lake, to the part where it approached nearest to
+the Coppermine River, and there fix upon a spot to which he might bring
+the party the following year, on its return from the mouth of that
+river. And, _thirdly_, that these undertakings might not interfere with
+the important operations necessary for the comfortable residence and
+subsistence of the Expedition during the following winter, Lieutenant
+Back was to superintend them during my absence, with the assistance of
+Mr. Dease, chief trader of the Hudson Bay Company, whose suggestions,
+relative to the proper distribution of the Indian hunters, and the
+station of the fishermen, he was to follow. Accordingly, Dr. Richardson,
+on his quitting this place two days previous to our arrival, had left
+the largest of the boats, the Lion, for my use and a well-selected crew
+of six Englishmen, and Augustus the Esquimaux.
+
+Lieutenant Back was directed to take the canoes forward to Bear Lake,
+laden with such supplies as would be required for the winter, and was
+further instructed to furnish Dr. Richardson with one of the boats, and
+a good crew. The services of the Canadians who had brought the canoes
+from Penetanguishene, being no longer required, I desired Lieutenant
+Back to discharge them, and also all the voyagers of Mr. Dease's party
+who could be spared. They were sent in canoes to Slave Lake, where I had
+arranged with Mr. M'Vicar for their being supplied with the means of
+gaining subsistence by fishing, during the winter; and the following
+spring, they were to be forwarded to Canada, at the expense of
+Government, according to the terms of their agreement.
+
+Fort Norman being situated in our way to the sea, the pemmican and other
+stores, intended for the voyage along the coast next season, were
+deposited here, by permission of Mr. Smith, under the care of Mr.
+Brisbois, the clerk in charge. Our observations place this establishment
+in latitude 64 degrees 40 minutes 30 seconds N., and longitude 124
+degrees 53 minutes 22 seconds W.
+
+[Sidenote: Monday, 8th.] The above matters being satisfactorily settled,
+and a few articles packed up as presents to the Indians and Esquimaux,
+Mr. Kendall and I embarked on the 8th, at noon, taking, in addition to
+our crew, a voyager, who was reported to be able to guide us through the
+proper channels to Fort Good Hope, of which, however, we found him
+altogether ignorant. We were accompanied by Lieutenant Back, with the
+three canoes, each manned by five men. The crews of the canoes imagining
+they could easily pass our English boat, were much surprised, on putting
+it to the proof, to find the boat take and maintain the lead, both under
+sail and with oars.
+
+A few miles above the Bear Lake River, and near its mouth, the banks of
+the Mackenzie contain much wood coal, which was on fire at the time we
+passed, as it had been observed to be by Mackenzie in his voyage to the
+sea. Its smell was very disagreeable. On a subsequent trial of this coal
+at our winter quarters, we found that it emitted little heat, and was
+unfit for the blacksmith's use. The banks likewise contain layers of a
+kind of unctuous mud, similar, perhaps, to that found on the borders of
+the Orinoco, which the Indians, in this neighbourhood, use occasionally
+as food during seasons of famine, and even, at other times, chew as an
+amusement. It has a milky taste, and the flavour is not disagreeable. We
+used it for whitening the walls of our dwellings; for which purpose it
+is well adapted.
+
+The entrance of the Bear Lake River is distinguished by a very
+remarkable mountain, whose summit displays a variety of insulated peaks,
+crowded in the most irregular manner. It is composed of limestone; and
+from the lower cliffs, which front the river, a dark, bituminous liquid
+oozes and discolours the rock. There are likewise two streams of
+sulphureous water that flow from its base into the Mackenzie. At this
+place we parted from our friend, Lieutenant Back, who entered the clear
+and beautiful stream that flows from Bear Lake, of whose pure waters we
+had also the benefit, till they were overpowered by the muddy current of
+the Mackenzie. The day was fine, the wind fair, the current swift, and
+every circumstance concurred to put the party in high glee. There was
+little in the scenery to attract our attention, now that we had become
+familiar with the general appearance of the Mackenzie, and we passed
+island after island, of the same alluvial mud, without further regard
+than the delineation of them in the survey book. At length, however, a
+most picturesque view of the Rocky Mountain range opened before us, and
+excited general admiration, and we had also some portions of the
+mountain range on the eastern side of the river, in view for the
+remainder of the day's journey. The outline of these mountains is very
+irregular, the highest parts being peaked hills. The general direction
+of the ranges is between N.W. and N.W.b.W.
+
+Being unwilling to lose the advantage of the wind, we only put ashore to
+sup, and after two hours' delay, resumed our voyage under easy sail.
+[Sidenote: Tuesday, 9th.] When the sun rose, the oars were used; and
+then, as the current set at the rate of two miles and a half per hour,
+the boat travelled swiftly down the stream. The eastern bank of the
+river, along which we were passing, is about one hundred and twenty feet
+high, almost perpendicular, and is composed of thin strata of bituminous
+shale. Amongst the fragments of shale which strewed the beach, we found
+many pieces of brown wood-coal. A reach, eighteen miles in length,
+followed. It is bounded on both sides by high cliffs of sand-stone. We
+landed to breakfast, and to obtain the longitude, 128 degrees 23 minutes
+W.
+
+From the reach here described, are seen two hills, named by me the East
+and West Mountains of the rapid, which seem to present a barrier to the
+further progress of the stream; but the river, bending suddenly between
+them to the north, dilates into a kind of basin, and, by so doing, opens
+by far the most interesting view of the Rocky Mountains which the
+Mackenzie affords. The river, too, makes its nearest approach to those
+mountains at this spot, and probably, the easiest communication with
+them would be by ascending a small stream that flows in here on the
+western side. Here too are found the first rapids mentioned by
+Mackenzie, which continue in succession for two miles, when the water is
+low. The centre of the basin is occupied by low sandy islands; and the
+channel on the western side is the deepest. The beauty of this scene
+furnished employment for the able pencil of Lieutenant Back, on a
+subsequent occasion. As the Mackenzie, in its further descent, continues
+to hold a northerly course, and the range of mountains runs N.W.b.N., we
+did not obtain any other view of them till we approached the sea.
+
+At one P.M. we saw a party of Indians encamped on the beach of a small
+stream, whom we invited to come off to us. They hesitated at first,
+being doubtful who we were, from our boat being different in shape from
+any they had seen, and carrying two sails; but after some time they
+launched their canoes, and brought us a good supply of fresh deer's
+meat. The sight of our boats seemed to delight them as much as the
+ammunition and tobacco which they received. These were Hare Indians, the
+tribe that follows next to the Dog-Ribs, in the line of country below
+Bear Lake; and, like them, they speak a dialect of the Chipewyan
+language. We admired the shape and appearance of their canoes, which
+were larger than those used by the Chipewyans, and had the fore part
+covered with bark, to fit them for the navigation of this broad river,
+where the waves are often high.
+
+The river varied from two to four miles in breadth, and its course was
+interrupted by several small islands and sand-banks. At six P.M. we came
+to an open space, bounded by lofty walls of sandstone. In this expansion
+are found the second rapids of Mackenzie: at the first appearance they
+seem dangerous, but are not so. The river becomes again contracted, and
+rushes with great force for the space of seven miles through a kind of
+defile, varying in breadth from four hundred to eight hundred yards,
+which has been appropriately named "The Ramparts," by the traders. The
+walls of this defile are from eighty to one hundred and fifty feet high,
+and are composed of limestone, containing numerous shells: for a part of
+the way the stone is very white, and in the rest it is blue. Several
+streams of water were running over the summits of the cliffs, which had
+worn the stone in some places, into a turreted shape; while the heaps,
+overthrown by its action at their base, resemble mounds for defence. To
+these appearances were occasionally added cavernous openings, and other
+hollow parts, not unlike the arched windows or gateways of a castellated
+building. I could not help fancying what delight a visit to this spot
+would afford to any person of a romantic turn, especially at the time we
+first saw it, when the broad shadows of a declining sun gave effect to
+the picture. This is a place of resort for the Hare Indians to fish, and
+we were visited by a large party of men and women of that tribe, who
+brought fish, berries, and meat. They were all neatly clothed in new
+leathern dresses, highly ornamented with beads and porcupine quills. The
+paintings of animals on the sides of our boats were very attractive to
+them; they scanned every figure over and over, bursting into laughter
+whenever they recognised any of the animals. We encamped near a small
+river below the ramparts, one hundred and ninety-three miles from Fort
+Norman. Two young Indians followed us in their canoes, bringing some
+musk-rat skins, and fish for sale. We purchased the fish, but declined
+taking the furs. They were so pleased with their reception, that they
+passed the night by our fire.
+
+[Sidenote: Wednesday, 10th.] At daylight we again embarked, and
+descended the river pleasantly and swiftly under sail, having the
+benefit of a strong current, especially where it was narrowed by islands
+or sand-banks. The sides of the river are generally high cliffs of
+limestone or sandstone, and its breadth from two to three miles. The
+intervals between these cliffs are mostly occupied by hills of sand,
+from eighty to one hundred feet high, whose intermediate valleys are
+well wooded; and whenever these occur, the channel of the river is much
+interrupted by banks, on which, as well as on the beach, there are vast
+collections of drift timber, piled, in some places, twenty feet high, by
+the spring floods.
+
+At eleven P.M. we arrived at Fort Good Hope, the lowest of the
+Company's establishments; it is distant from Fort Norman three hundred
+and twelve miles, and is in latitude 67 degrees 28 minutes 21 seconds
+N., and longitude 130 degrees 51 minutes 38 seconds W.: the variation of
+the compass being 47 degrees 28 minutes 41 seconds E. Our arrival at
+this period of the year, at least two months earlier than that of the
+Company's boats from York Factory, caused great astonishment to the few
+inmates of this dreary dwelling, and particularly to its master, Mr.
+Charles Dease, who scarcely recovered from his surprise until we had
+been seated some time in his room. But this over, he quickly put every
+one in motion to prepare a meal for us, of which we stood in much need,
+as it was then verging on midnight, and we had breakfasted at eight in
+the morning. This post had been but recently established for the
+convenience of the tribe of Indians whom Mackenzie calls the
+Quarrellers, but whom the traders throughout the fur country name
+Loucheux. As this name is now in general use, I shall adopt it, though
+it is but justice to the people to say, that they have bright sparkling
+eyes, without the least tendency to that obliquity which might be
+inferred from the term. The fact is, that Loucheux, or Squinter, was
+intended to convey the sense of the Indian name of the tribe--Deguthee
+Dennee, which means "the people who avoid the arrows of their enemies,
+by keeping a look out on both sides." None of the tribe was at this time
+at the fort; but from Mr. Dease we learned the interesting fact, that
+the Loucheux and Esquimaux, who are generally at war, had met amicably
+the preceding spring, and that they were now at peace. We procured from
+the store an assortment of beads, and such things as were most in
+request with the Loucheux, and made up a small package of clothing to be
+presented to each chief of that tribe, whose favour it was thought
+advisable by this means to propitiate, as they were the next neighbours
+to the Esquimaux.
+
+[Sidenote: Thursday, 11th.] After the latitude had been observed, we
+embarked, and were accompanied by Mr. Dease as far as Trading River,
+where he expected there might still be a party of Indians, which did not
+prove the case. This river being the usual limit of the trader's travels
+towards the sea, the voyager who had come with us from Fort Norman
+declined going any farther, and by permission of Mr. Dease he was
+exchanged for a young half-breed named Baptiste, the interpreter of the
+fort, who went under the promise of being left with the chief of the
+Loucheux, to whom he was to introduce the party.
+
+The reach below Trading River is remarkable, from the banks on the
+eastern side consisting of hills of a light yellow marl-slate, nearly
+uniform in shape, and strongly resembling piles of cannon shot. The name
+of Cannon-Shot Reach was, therefore, bestowed on it. The channel of the
+river is very intricate, winding amongst numerous sand-banks, and some
+low alluvial islands, on which willows only grow. Its breadth is about
+two miles, and the depth of water, in the autumn, from six to twelve
+feet. In passing through Cannon-Shot Reach, we were hailed by an Indian
+from the shore, and landed immediately, to inform him of the purport of
+our visit. As soon as Baptiste had explained these matters to him, the
+man, deeming it of importance that we should be properly introduced to
+his relatives, offered to accompany us to the next party, providing we
+would undertake to carry his baggage. This we consented to do, little
+expecting, from the appearance of poverty in himself and his family, and
+still less from that of his tent, a mere covering of bark and pine
+branches, supported on three poles, that load upon load of unsavoury
+fish would be tossed into the boat. However, we were unwilling to
+retract our promise, and suffered our vessel to be completely lumbered.
+We then pushed off, leaving the family to follow in the canoe, but in a
+short time our ears were assailed by the loud cries of the man demanding
+that we should stop. On his coming up, we found he was apprehensive of
+the canoe sinking, it being very leaky and overloaded, and of his losing
+his wife and infant child. The water being thrown out, the man proposed
+going forward and keeping by our side. There was nothing now to fear,
+yet the lamentations of the woman became louder and louder, and at last
+the poor creature threw off her only covering, raised the most piteous
+cries, and appeared a perfect object of despair. We learned from
+Baptiste that she was mourning the loss of two near relatives who had
+recently died near the spot we were passing. In this manner do these
+simple people show their sorrow for the death of their connexions. As we
+drew near the tents of the party on shore, the husband proclaimed with a
+stentorian voice who we were; this produced a long reply, of which
+Baptiste could only collect enough to inform us that many persons were
+lying sick in the lodges, and that two had died the preceding day. Not
+choosing to expose ourselves to the hazard of contagion, we put the
+baggage of our friend on shore at some distance below the lodges. All
+those who were able to manage a canoe, came off to receive presents, and
+to see Augustus, the principal object of attraction. Each person
+crowded to the side on which he sat to shake him by the hand; and two of
+the party, who had been occasionally with the Esquimaux, contrived to
+make him understand that, being accompanied by him, we need apprehend no
+violence from them, though they were a treacherous people. At the end of
+five miles farther we put on shore to sup, and afterwards slept in the
+boat; but Augustus spread his blankets on the beach before the fire, and
+allowed four of the Loucheux, who had followed us from the tents, to
+share them with him.
+
+[Sidenote: Friday, 12th.] At daylight we loosened from the beach, and
+continued with the descent of the river; winding, in our course, as
+numerous sand-banks rendered necessary. In a few hours we descried
+another collection of Indian lodges. One of the party happened to be
+examining his nets nearer to us than the tents; on espying the boat, he
+immediately desisted, and paddled towards his friends with the utmost
+speed, bawling the whole way for them to arm. The women and children
+were seen hurrying up the bank to hide themselves; and by the time we
+had got abreast of the lodges, the whole party were in a state of
+defence. They stood on the beach gazing at us evidently with much
+distrust; and for some time no one would accept our invitations to
+approach. At length an adventurous youth, distinguishable among the rest
+by the gaiety of his dress, and the quantity of beads that were
+suspended around his neck, launched his canoe and paddled gently towards
+the boat, till he discovered Augustus, whom he knew by his countenance
+to be an Esquimaux; then rising from his seat, he threw up his hands for
+joy, and desired every one of the party to embark at once. The summons
+was instantly obeyed, and a friendly intercourse followed; each person
+that had a gun discharging its contents, and taking the iron heads and
+barbs from the arrows, to show their entire confidence. On landing to
+breakfast, we found that the dialect of this party was different from
+that of the men we had seen yesterday, and that Baptiste did not
+understand their language; consequently our communications were carried
+on by signs, except when they attempted to speak Esquimaux, which
+Augustus, with difficulty, made out. He was still the centre of
+attraction, notwithstanding Mr. Kendall and myself were dressed in
+uniform, and were distributing presents to them. They caressed Augustus,
+danced and played around him, to testify their joy at his appearance
+among them, and we could not help admiring the demeanour of our
+excellent little companion under such unusual and extravagant marks of
+attention. He received every burst of applause, every shake of the hand,
+with modesty and affability, but would not allow them to interrupt him
+in the preparation of our breakfast, a task which he always delighted to
+perform. As soon as we had finished our meal, he made his friends sit
+down, and distributed to each person a portion of his own, but without
+any affectation of superiority. When we were on the point of embarking,
+the oldest Indian of the party intimated his desire that we should stop
+until some one whom he had sent for should come. This proved to be his
+son, in a very sickly state. Though the day was warm, the lad was
+shivering with cold, and it was evident he was suffering from fever,
+which the father had no doubt we could cure. The only remedy we could
+apply was some warm tea, with a little brandy in it, which we afterwards
+learned had the desired effect of restoring the invalid. Again we were
+preparing to set off, when the same old man begged us to stop until the
+women should come; these were no less pleased with Augustus, and with
+the presents they received, than the men had been.
+
+This good-natured tribe is distinguished by the traders as the Lower
+Loucheux, but the literal meaning of their Indian name is the Sharp
+Eyes. They are decidedly a well-looking people: in manner, and general
+appearance, they resemble the Esquimaux near the mouth of the Mackenzie,
+though not in their eyes, which are prominent and full. Their canoes,
+too, are shaped like those of the Esquimaux, and made of birch bark,
+which, by some process, is striped from the gunwale perpendicularly
+downwards, for the purpose of ornament. Their summer dress, like that of
+the Upper Loucheux and Esquimaux, is a jacket of leather, prolonged to a
+point before and behind: the leggings, of the same material, are sewn to
+the shoes, and tied by a string round the waist. The outer edges of
+their dress are cut into fringes, coloured with red and yellow earth,
+and generally decorated with beads. Beads are so much coveted by them,
+that, for some years, they were the principal article of trade exchanged
+for their furs; and even now the successful hunter, or the favourite
+son, may be known by the quantity of strings of different coloured beads
+which he has about his neck. These Indians are the only natives of
+America, except the Esquimaux, whom I have seen with the septum of the
+nose perforated, through which, like the Esquimaux, they thrust pieces
+of bone, or small strings of shells, which they purchase from that
+people. Few of them have guns, but each man is armed with a bow and
+arrows. The bows are constructed of three pieces of wood, the middle one
+straight, and those at each end crooked, and bound with sinews, of which
+the string is also made. The dress of the women only differs from that
+of the men by the hood being made sufficiently wide to admit of their
+carrying a child on their back.
+
+At ten A.M. we resumed our journey, followed by the young man who had
+first spoken to us, and his brother, in their canoes, and in the course
+of two hours came abreast of a remarkable round-backed hill, on which we
+were informed Mr. Livingstone and his party had encamped in 1795, the
+night before they were massacred. This hill marks the commencement of
+another contraction of the river, which is here pent in between very
+steep cliffs of blue limestone, which I have denominated the Narrows.
+The Red River contributes its waters to the Mackenzie at the lower part
+of the Narrows, in latitude 67 degrees 27 minutes N., longitude 133
+degrees 31 minutes W.; and, though of inconsiderable size, is remarkable
+as being the boundary between the lands claimed by the Loucheux Indians
+and those of the Esquimaux, and likewise as the spot where the amicable
+meeting between these tribes had been held in the preceding spring. We
+did not find the chief of the Loucheux here, as had been expected, and
+therefore passed on. The banks of the river, now entirely composed of
+sand and sandstone, became gradually lower, and more bare of trees. At
+the end of eight miles we arrived at a very spacious opening, in which
+were numerous well-wooded islands, and various channels. The rocky
+mountains on the west once more appeared in view, extending from S.W. to
+N.W. and preserving a N.W.1/2W. direction; and of this range a very
+lofty peak, and a table mountain, which I have named after the late Mr.
+Gifford, form the most conspicuous features. We steered into the eastern
+channel, as being that through which the current seemed to run swiftest;
+and as soon as we came to a high bank we landed, for the purpose of
+taking a survey of the surrounding scene. But even from its summit our
+view was very limited, and all we could discover was, that we were
+certainly in that expansion of the river that Mackenzie delineates in
+his chart, and, therefore, in the fair way to the sea, whatever channel
+we took. This might have been inferred, from the sudden departure of our
+two Indian companions, who dropped behind and turned their canoes round,
+without further ceremony, as soon as they saw our intention of entering
+the eastern channel. Baptiste, who was asleep at the time, expressed
+surprise at their having gone back, but consoled himself with the idea
+of meeting the Indian chief the next morning, at a place he called the
+Forks. We were amused at conjecturing how great his surprise would be
+should he next be disturbed by the hallowing of a party of Esquimaux,
+whom he greatly dreaded. At the end of twenty-three miles descent in the
+middle channel, having passed one that branched off to the eastward, we
+put up at an early hour, and caused the guns to be cleaned, and two
+sentinels appointed to watch, lest the Esquimaux should come upon us
+unawares. The banks of the river, as well as the islands, are entirely
+alluvial, and support willows at the lower parts, and the spruce-fir
+trees at the summits. The beach on which we were encamped was much
+intersected with the recent tracts of the moose and rein-deer.
+
+[Sidenote: Saturday, 13th.] We embarked at three A.M. on the 13th; and
+as we were in momentary expectation of meeting the Esquimaux with whom I
+wished to have an interview, the masts were struck, lest they should
+discover the boat at a distance, and run off. We soon passed two of
+their huts, which did not seem to have been recently inhabited. The
+longitude 134 degrees 20 minutes 30 seconds W., and variation 51 degrees
+4 minutes 20 seconds E., were observed at the time we halted to
+breakfast, and the latitude 68 degrees 15 minutes 50 seconds N., at
+noon. The Rein-deer mountains on the eastern side, came in view before
+noon. The range on the west was also occasionally visible: we were
+descending between the M'Gillivray and Simpson islands, in a channel
+that did not exceed half a mile in breadth. A fine breeze sprung up
+after noon, of which we took advantage by setting the sails, not having
+seen any recent traces of the Esquimaux. At the extremity of Simpson
+island there is a broad channel, which pours its waters into the one in
+which we were, at a place where the stream is contracted by a small
+island, and a strong rapid is the consequence of this junction. Here we
+found many huts, and other indications of its being a place of resort
+for fishing; here, too, it is supposed Mr. Livingstone and his crew fell
+a sacrifice to the first party of Esquimaux whom they met. Several other
+openings branched off to the eastward; but we continued to follow the
+largest channel, in which the current was very strong, and kept nearly
+parallel to, and about ten miles from, the Rein-deer mountains. Their
+outline, viewed from this distance, appeared very regular, the only
+remarkable parts being some eminences that were tinged with a deep pink
+colour. Sailing by one of the huts at a quick rate, every one's
+attention was arrested at hearing a shrill sound, which was supposed to
+be a human voice; but on landing to ascertain the fact, we could find no
+person, nor any footsteps. We, therefore, continued our journey. As we
+proceeded, the river became more devious in its course, the huts on the
+Esquimaux were now more frequent; none of them, however, seemed to have
+been recently inhabited. The islands were of the same alluvial kind as
+those seen yesterday, and the wood on them equally plentiful and large.
+We stopped to sup at nine, extinguished the fire as soon as we had
+finished, and then retired to sleep in the boat, keeping two men on
+guard.
+
+[Sidenote: Sunday, 14th.] We set off aided by a fresh breeze this
+morning, and at the end of seven miles came to the last of the fir
+trees, in latitude 68 degrees 40 minutes N., the only wood beyond this
+being stunted willows, which became still more dwarfish at thirty miles
+from the mouth of the river. There was plenty of drift-wood on the
+borders of the islands, and some even on the higher parts, at a distance
+from the water; from which it would appear that at certain seasons they
+are inundated. At length the main stream took a turn to the S.S.W.,
+which we followed, though there was a branch northwards, but it seemed
+to be much impeded by mud-banks.[1] At the end of eight miles the river
+again inclined to the north of west, round the southern extremity of
+Halkett island, and there were openings to the north and south, which we
+did not stop to examine. A fog-bank hung over the northern horizon,
+which gave us no little uneasiness, from its strong resemblance to a
+continuous line of ice-blink; and the clouds, from the sun-beams falling
+on them, had the exact appearance of icebergs. However, the sun became
+sufficiently powerful in the afternoon to dissipate the cause of this
+illusion, and relieve us from anxiety on that score. A body of water,
+nearly equal to that we were descending, poured in between the Colville
+and Halkett islands with such force as to cause a very strong ripple at
+the point of junction, which we avoided by keeping close to the shore of
+Langley island. The channel, after the union of these streams, increased
+to a breadth of two miles, preserving a N.N.W. course. We stood twelve
+miles in this direction, and two to the westward, when we were gratified
+by the delightful prospect of the shore suddenly diverging, and a wide
+space of open water to the northward, which we doubted not would prove
+to be the sea. Just at this time a seal made its appearance, and sported
+about the boat as if in confirmation of this opinion. We attempted to
+coast along the shore of Ellice island, but found the water too shallow,
+and that the boat grounded whenever we got out of the channel of the
+river, which was near the western side. The wind and waves were too high
+for us to make any progress in the middle of the stream, and as the
+clouds threatened more boisterous weather, we went to Pitt island to
+encamp. The haze which had hidden all distant objects since five P.M.
+passed off as the sun set, and we gained a very magnificent view of that
+portion of the rocky mountain which I have called after my companion Dr.
+Richardson, and of which the remarkable conical peak, named in honour of
+my friend Dr. Fitton, President of the Geological Society, and the
+Cupola mountain, are the most conspicuous objects. These were
+subsequently found to be near sixty miles distant. The water was
+entirely fresh, and there was no perceptible rise of tide. Our drowsy
+companion Baptiste, when he looked upon the vast expanse of water, for
+the first time, expressed some apprehension that we had passed the
+Forks, and that there was a doubt of our seeing the Indian chief; but he
+was by no means convinced of the fact until the following day, when he
+tasted salt water, and lost sight of the main shore. After our Sunday
+evening's supper, the party assembled in the tent to read prayers, and
+return thanks to the Almighty, for having thus far crowned our labours
+with success.
+
+[Sidenote: Monday, 15th.] In the morning of the fifteenth the wind blew
+a gale, as it had done through the night, and every object was obscured
+by a thick fog. About six A.M. we took advantage of a temporary
+abatement of the wind to cross over to some higher land on the eastern
+side, which we had seen the preceding evening, appearing like islands.
+Owing to the thickness of the fog, we were guided in our course at
+starting solely by the compass. When we reached the channel of the
+river, the gale returned with increased violence, and its direction
+being opposite to the current, such high waves were raised, that the
+boat took in a good deal of water. The fog now cleared away, and the
+three eminences mistaken for islands were ascertained to be conical
+hummocks, rising above the low eastern shore. We pushed for the nearest,
+and landed a short distance from its base at eight A.M. On going to the
+summit of this eminence, in the expectation of obtaining the bearings of
+several distant points, we were a little disappointed to find that only
+the low shores of Pitt Island were visible, extending from S.E. to
+W.N.W., though we were repaid for our visit by observing two moose deer
+quietly browsing on the tops of the willows, a short distance from us.
+Mr. Kendall hastened down to despatch Baptiste in pursuit of them, who
+returned an hour afterwards to inform us that he had wounded one, which
+he had been prevented from following by the loss of his powder-horn. As
+there was no possibility of our getting forward until the gale abated,
+Baptiste and Augustus were sent out to hunt, there being numerous tracks
+of moose and rein-deer in the neighbourhood of the tent. I also
+despatched Mr. Kendall, with two seamen, to walk some distance into the
+interior, and endeavour to clear up the doubt whether we were upon the
+main shore, or upon an island. The astronomical observations obtained at
+the encampment place it in latitude 69 degrees 3 minutes 45 seconds N.,
+longitude 135 degrees 44 minutes 57 seconds W. A tide-pole was put up
+immediately on our landing, and we perceived the water to rise about
+three inches in the course of the forenoon, and to fall the same
+quantity in the evening. The temperature of the air did not exceed
+forty-eight degrees all this day: when in the river, it used to vary
+from 55 degrees to 70 degrees. Mr. Kendall came back in the evening,
+bringing the agreeable intelligence that he had assisted in killing a
+female moose and her calf, and that Augustus had shot a rein-deer. Some
+men were sent to carry the meat to the borders of a river which Mr.
+Kendall had discovered, while the boat went round to its entrance about
+one mile from the encampment. They returned at sunset. Many geese and
+ducks were seen by our hunters. Throughout the whole of Mr. Kendall's
+walk, of twelve or fourteen miles, he saw only the same kind of flat
+land, covered with the dwarf willow and the moose-berry plant, as was
+discovered from the tent, except one small lake, and the river that has
+been mentioned, issuing from it.
+
+[Sidenote: Tuesday, 16th.] The atmosphere was so thick on the morning of
+the 16th as to confine our view to a few yards; we therefore remained at
+the encampment till the sun had sufficient power to remove the fog:
+temperature of the air 39 degrees. Embarking at eleven A.M., we
+continued our course along the shore of Ellice Island, until we found
+its coast trending southward of east. There we landed, and were rejoiced
+at the sea-like appearance to the northward. This point is in latitude
+69 degrees 14 minutes N., longitude 135 degrees 57 minutes W., and forms
+the north-eastern entrance to the main channel of the Mackenzie River,
+which, from Slave Lake to this point, is one thousand and forty-five
+miles according to our survey. An island was now discovered to the
+N.E., looking blue from its distance, towards which the boat was
+immediately directed. The water, which for the last eight miles had been
+very shallow, became gradually deeper, and of a more green colour,
+though still fresh, even when we had entirely lost sight of the eastern
+land. In the middle of the traverse, we were caught by a strong contrary
+wind, against which our crews cheerfully contended for five hours,
+though drenched by the spray, and even by the waves, which came into the
+boat. Unwilling to return without attaining the object of our search,
+when the strength of the rowers was nearly exhausted, as a last
+resource, the sails were set double-reefed, and our excellent boat
+mounted over the waves in the most buoyant manner. An opportune
+alteration of the wind enabled us, in the course of another hour, to
+fetch into smoother water, under the shelter of the island. We then
+pulled across a line of strong ripple which marked the termination of
+the fresh water, that on the seaward side being brackish; and in the
+further progress of three miles to the island, we had the indescribable
+pleasure of finding the water decidedly salt.
+
+The sun was setting as the boat touched the beach, and we hastened to
+the most elevated part of the island, about two hundred and fifty feet
+high, to look around; and never was a prospect more gratifying than that
+which lay open to us. The Rocky Mountains were seen from S.W. to
+W.1/2N.; and from the latter point, round by the north, the sea appeared
+in all its majesty, entirely free from ice, and without any visible
+obstruction to its navigation. Many seals, and black and white whales
+were sporting on its waves; and the whole scene was calculated to excite
+in our minds the most flattering expectations as to our own success, and
+that of our friends in the Hecla and the Fury. There were two groups of
+islands at no great distance; to the one bearing south-east I had the
+pleasure of affixing the name of my excellent friend and companion Mr.
+Kendall, and to that bearing north-east the name of Pelly was given, as
+a tribute justly due to the Governor of the Hudson Bay Company, for his
+earnest endeavours to promote the progress and welfare of the
+Expedition. A similar feeling towards my much esteemed friend Mr. Garry,
+the Deputy Governor of the Company, prompted me to appropriate his name
+to the island on which we stood,--a poor, indeed, but heartfelt
+expression of gratitude, for all his active kindness and indefatigable
+attention to the comfort of myself and my companions.
+
+During our absence the men had pitched the tent on the beach, and I
+caused the silk union-flag to be hoisted, which my deeply-lamented wife
+had made and presented to me, as a parting gift, under the express
+injunction that it was not to be unfurled before the Expedition reached
+the sea. I will not attempt to describe my emotions as it expanded to
+the breeze--however natural, and, for the moment, irresistible, I felt
+that it was my duty to suppress them, and that I had no right, by an
+indulgence of my own sorrows, to cloud the animated countenances of my
+companions. Joining, therefore, with the best grace that I could
+command, in the general excitement, I endeavoured to return with
+corresponding cheerfulness, their warm congratulations on having thus
+planted the British flag on this remote island of the Polar Sea.
+
+Some spirits, which had been saved for the occasion, were issued to the
+men; and with three fervent cheers they drank to the health of our
+beloved monarch, and to the continued success of our enterprize. Mr.
+Kendall and I had also reserved a little of our brandy, in order to
+celebrate this interesting event; but Baptiste, in his delight of
+beholding the sea, had set before us some salt water, which having been
+mixed with the brandy before the mistake was discovered, we were
+reluctantly obliged to forego the intended draught, and to use it in the
+more classical form of a libation poured on the ground.
+
+Baptiste, on discovering that he had actually reached the ocean, stuck
+his feathers in his hat, and exultingly exclaimed, "Now that I am one of
+the _Gens de la mer_, you shall see how active I will be, and how I will
+crow over the _Gens du nord_," the name by which the Athabasca voyagers
+are designated. No fresh water was found on Garry Island until Augustus
+discovered a small lake, the streams that poured down from the cliffs
+being as salt as the sea. The temperature of the sea water was 51
+degrees; the fresh water we had left at five miles from the island 55
+degrees; and that of the air 52 degrees.
+
+Garry Island is about five miles long, by two broad, and seems to be a
+mass of frozen mud, which, in the parts exposed to the air and sun, has
+a black earthy appearance. It is terminated to the north-west by a steep
+cliff, through which protrude, in a highly inclined position, several
+layers of wood-coal, similar to that found in the Mackenzie. There was
+likewise observed a bituminous liquid trickling down in many parts, but
+particularly near the south-west point of the cliff where the bank had
+been broken away, and a hollow cavity was formed. The ravines and
+gullies were still filled with ice, though none was seen on the level
+ground. There were no stones above the sea level; those on the beach
+consisted of granite, greenstone, quartz, and lydian-stone, of a small
+size and completely rounded. The vegetable productions were grasses, a
+few mosses, and some shrubs, the latter in flower. Four foxes were the
+only land animals we saw; and a small hawk, some gulls, dotterels, and
+phaleropes, composed the list of birds. A large medusa was found on the
+beach.
+
+[Sidenote: Wednesday, 17th.] The sky was cloudless on the morning of the
+17th, which enabled us to ascertain the position of our encampment to be
+in latitude 69 degrees 29 minutes N., longitude 135 degrees 41 minutes
+W., and the variation of the magnetic needle to be 51 degrees 42 minutes
+E. We likewise found that it was high water that day at one P.M. with a
+rise and fall of eight inches, but the direction of the flood could not
+be ascertained. I wrote for Captain Parry an account of our progress,
+with such information as he might require, in case he wished to
+communicate either with the Company's Post at Fort Good Hope, or our
+party, and deposited my letter, with many others that I had in charge
+for himself and the officers of the ships, under a pole erected for the
+purpose, on which we left a blue and red flag flying, to attract his
+attention. Another statement of our proceedings was encased in a
+waterproof box, and committed to the sea, a mile to the northward of the
+island. The wind blew strong off the land at the time, and there was a
+gale from the north-west the next day, so that there is every chance of
+the letter having made good way to the eastward.
+
+Having completed the observations, we embarked at two P.M., and pulled
+along the western shore of the island three miles to the sandy spit at
+its south-west end, on which there was a vast quantity of drift-wood
+piled by the action of the waves. From this point we launched forth to
+cross towards the Mackenzie under double-reefed sails, as the wind was
+blowing strong, and the waves high in the offing; but finding the boat
+very stiff and buoyant, the sail was increased, and reaching the eastern
+point of Ellice Island by seven P.M. we encamped at the foot of the
+outermost of the three hummocks mentioned on the 15th of August. As we
+passed along the shore of the island, we disturbed some moose and
+rein-deer, and several geese, cranes, and swans, that were quietly
+feeding near the water. At this period of the year, therefore, there
+would be no lack of food, in this country, for the skilful hunter. In
+the course of the evening I found that a piece of the wood-coal from
+Garry's Island, which I had placed in my pocket, had ignited
+spontaneously, and scorched the metal powder-horn by its side.
+
+Our enterprising precursor, Sir Alexander Mackenzie, has been blamed for
+asserting that he had reached the sea, without having ascertained that
+the water was salt. He, in fact, clearly states that he never did reach
+the salt water. The danger to which his canoe was exposed in venturing
+two or three miles beyond Whale Island, (which lies to the eastward of
+our route,) at a time when the sea was covered with ice to the north, is
+a sufficient reason for his turning back; and we can abundantly testify
+that those frail vessels are totally unfitted to contend against such
+winds and seas as we experienced in advancing beyond the volume of fresh
+water poured out by the Mackenzie. It is probable, therefore, that even
+had the sea been free from ice at the time of his visit, he could not
+have gone far enough to prove its saltness, though the boundless
+horizon, the occurrence of a tide, and the sight of porpoises and
+whales, naturally induced him to say that he had arrived at the ocean.
+The survey of the Mackenzie made on this Expedition, differs very little
+in its outline from that of its discoverer, whose general correctness we
+had often occasion to admire. We had, indeed, to alter the latitude and
+longitude of some of its points, which he most probably laid down from
+magnetic bearings only; and it is proper to remark, that in comparing
+our magnetic bearings with his, throughout the whole course of the
+river, they were found to be about fifteen degrees more easterly; which
+may, therefore, be considered as the amount of increase in variation
+since 1789. In justice to the memory of Mackenzie, I hope the custom of
+calling this the Great River, which is in general use among the traders
+and voyagers, will be discontinued, and that the name of its eminent
+discoverer may be universally adopted.
+
+[Sidenote: Thursday, 18th.] The excursions to Garry Island having made
+us acquainted with the state of the sea to the northward, and having
+shown that, the bank at the mouth of the river being passed, there was
+no visible impediment to a boat's proceeding eastward, I was desirous of
+making further examination in aid of the future operations of the
+Expedition, by going over to the western shore, and of reaching, if
+possible, the foot of the Rocky Mountains. With these intentions we
+embarked at nine A.M., but before we could get half way to the nearest
+part of Pitt Island, a gale of wind came on from N.W., followed by
+violent squalls, which, from the threatening appearance of the clouds,
+and the rapid descent of the thermometer from 68 degrees to 51 degrees,
+seemed likely to be of some continuance. The design was, therefore,
+abandoned, and the boat's head directed towards the entrance of the
+river. It proved, however, no easy task to get into the proper channel;
+and to effect this object the officers and crew had to drag the boat
+half a mile over a bar, while the waves were beating into it with such
+force as to make us apprehensive of its being swamped. As soon as we
+were in deep water, all the sail was set that the boat could bear, and
+at two P.M. we arrived at the narrow part. Here, likewise, the waves
+were high and breaking, and for the purpose of avoiding these and the
+strength of the current, we kept as close to the shore as possible,
+going through the water at seven miles an hour, and about four over the
+current. The wild fowl, warned by the sudden change of the weather, took
+advantage of this fair wind, and hastened away in large flights to the
+southward. At ten P.M., the boat having twice grounded, from our not
+being able to see our way clearly, we halted to sup, and laid down to
+sleep before a good fire. Temperature at 45 degrees.
+
+[Sidenote: Friday, 19th.] When daylight permitted us to distinguish the
+channels, we embarked again, and scudded under the foresail before the
+gale, which this day blew with increased violence. We halted to
+breakfast near some winter habitations of the Esquimaux, which we
+supposed, from the freshness of the wood-shavings, and the implements of
+fishing that were scattered about them, had been abandoned only in the
+preceding spring; and as it was probable they would revisit this spot,
+we fixed to the pole of a tent a present of a kettle, knife, hatchet,
+file, ice-chisel, some beads, and pieces of red and blue cloth. These
+huts were constructed of drift wood, in a similar manner to those which
+will be described in a subsequent part of the narrative. A second
+present was deposited at some other huts, and a third at those below the
+rapids. We imagined that some, if not all, of these would be found by
+the Esquimaux, and would make them acquainted with our visit. By noon we
+had advanced as far as the rapid, which we ascended under sail; and at a
+few miles above this point, owing to the fogginess of the atmosphere, we
+took a more western channel than that by which we descended. This proved
+circuitous, though it ultimately brought us to the former route. It was
+quite dark before we could find a secure place for the boat, and a
+sheltered spot for the tent. The gale continued without abatement, the
+weather was raw and cold, and it was with difficulty we collected some
+sticks to kindle a fire. Temperature 40 degrees.
+
+[Sidenote: Saturday, 20th.] On the 20th the wind was moderate. We
+resumed our journey at four A.M.; past our sleeping-place of the 12th by
+noon, and at sunset encamped at the narrow part of the river where the
+numerous channels commence. Large flights of geese and swans were
+observed passing to the southward all this day. The musquitoes again
+made their appearance, though the temperature was at 45 degrees:
+scarcely any of them had been seen on the descent to the sea.
+
+[Sidenote: Sunday, 21st.] Temperature at day light, on the 21st, 37
+degrees. We commenced our labour under oars, but a strong gale from the
+southward soon rendered this mode of ascending the river ineffectual.
+The men were, therefore, divided into two parties, who towed the boat by
+line, relieving each other at intervals of an hour and a half. At fifty
+minutes past one P.M. we were abreast of the Red River, and there met a
+large party of the lower Loucheux Indians, who had assembled to wait our
+arrival. They welcomed our return with every demonstration of joy, more
+particularly that of Augustus and Baptiste, and at first cheerfully
+assisted the men in towing, but, like Indians in general, they soon
+became tired of this labour, and rather impeded than forwarded our
+progress. So we distributed to each a present; made known as well as
+well as we could by signs, that at our next visit we would purchase
+whatever fish or meat they might collect, and took our leave of them.
+Owing to the detention these men and another party occasioned, we were
+caught by a heavy gale from N.W. before we could reach our encampment at
+the head of the Narrows, and had to pitch the tent in pelting rain.
+Temperature 43 degrees.
+
+[Sidenote: Monday, 22nd.] On the 22nd, we started at four in a thick wet
+fog, which gave place to snow and sleet, and sailed the whole day before
+a strong N.W. wind, much to the annoyance of several Indians who tried
+to keep pace with the boat, by running along the shore: each of them had
+a present of tobacco thrown to him. We encamped near the bottom of
+Cannon-Shot Reach; the weather was extremely cold, and, during the
+night, ice was formed in the kettle. [Sidenote: Tuesday, 23rd.] On the
+next day the wind came contrary from S.E., which obliged us to have
+recourse to the tow-line. The frequent recurrence of sand-banks, to
+avoid which we had either to pull round or cross the river, made this
+day's operations very tedious. In turning round one of the points, we
+came suddenly upon a party of Indians, who had not seen us on our way
+down. Our appearance, therefore, created great alarm; the women and
+children were instantly despatched to the woods, and the men came down
+to the beach with their guns and arrows prepared, and knives drawn; but
+the explanation that Baptiste gave, soon allayed their fears. They were,
+indeed, objects of pity; all their property had been destroyed to
+testify their grief at the death of some of their relations, and the
+bodies of several were still sore from the deep gashes they had
+inflicted on themselves in their demonstrations of sorrow. We
+distributed such useful articles among them as we had remaining, but the
+supply was not at all equal to their necessities. Several of them
+attempted to follow us in their canoes by poling, which they dexterously
+perform by pushing at the same time with a pole or paddle in each hand;
+the boat however, was towed faster than they could ascend the stream,
+and they were soon far behind. We arrived at six P.M. at the Trading
+River, and there met another party of the Loucheux, among whom was the
+woman whose tears had excited our sympathy on the 11th, now in high
+glee, and one of the most importunate for beads. The boy was likewise
+there to whom the tea had been given as a remedy for his fever,
+completely recovered, which was, no doubt, ascribed to the efficacy of
+the medicine. Not choosing to encamp near these people, we crossed the
+river, and towed four hours longer, when we reached Fort Good Hope. Mr.
+Dease, and all his fort, were overjoyed on seeing us again, because the
+Indians had begun to surmise, and in fact had brought a report that we
+had all been massacred by the Esquimaux; and had we been detained
+another week, this statement would have gained entire credence, and, in
+all probability, spread throughout the country.
+
+The Indian whose fish we carried on our way down, happened to be at the
+fort, and he cheerfully communicated, through the interpreter, a female,
+all the information that he or his tribe possessed respecting the mouth
+of the river, the sea-coast, and the Esquimaux, all topics highly
+interesting to us, but we subsequently found that his knowledge of these
+matters was very imperfect. We made known to him our wish that the
+Esquimaux should be informed of our arrival as soon as possible, and
+signified that a very substantial present would be given to any person
+that would carry the intelligence to them in the course of the following
+winter. Mr. Dease pressed this point strongly on his consideration. This
+gentleman, indeed, was anxious to promote our desires in every respect,
+and promised that his utmost exertions should be used to procure a good
+supply of provision for our next summer's voyage, though he represented
+the hunters in this vicinity as unskilful and inactive, and begged of me
+not to rely too much on his collection. We left in his charge five bags
+of pemmican, and the superfluous stores, to lighten the boats. We
+quitted the fort in the afternoon with a contrary wind, and towed twenty
+miles up the stream before we encamped, though the beach was composed of
+sharp stones, which rendered walking very unpleasant.
+
+The wind being contrary during the four following days, we could only
+ascend the river by using the tracking line. Our crew cheerfully
+performed this tedious service, though three of them had been much
+reduced by dysentery, brought on by previous fatigue, exposure to wet,
+and by their having lived for some time on dried provision. These men,
+however, had gradually been gaining strength since the fresh meat was
+procured on Ellice Island.
+
+On the 25th we came to the aspen, poplar, and larch, in latitude 67
+degrees 10 minutes N., and were not a little surprised to observe the
+change in their foliage within the last fortnight. Their leaves had
+assumed the autumnal tint, and were now fast falling. The wild fowl were
+hastening in large flocks to the south, and every appearance warned us
+that the fine season drew near its close.
+
+[Sidenote: 28th.] In the passage through the rampart defile, several
+families of the Hare Indians were observed encamped on the heights, for
+the purpose of gathering berries which were at this time ripe, and in
+the best flavour. At the first sight of the boat the women and children
+scampered down wherever descent was practicable, to get at their canoes,
+that they might cross over to us, but we travelled so fast that only a
+few could overtake the boat. The Indians who reside near this river,
+from their want of skill in hunting, principally subsist, from spring to
+autumn, on the produce of their fishing nets, and on wild berries. At
+the influx of small streams, or wherever there is any eddy, a net is
+set. In shallow water it is suspended upon sticks planted in a
+semicircle, so as to enclose the mouth of the river, or the sweep of the
+eddy; but where the water is deep, and the shore bold or rocky, two
+stout poles are firmly secured at a short distance from the water's
+edge, the breadth of a net apart, to the ends of which pliable rods are
+fastened, of a length sufficient to hang over the water, and to these
+the net is attached. In the winter these Indians snare hares, which are
+very abundant in this quarter.
+
+[Sidenote: 29th.] On the 29th we arrived at the upper rapids, which were
+scarcely discernible at the time of our descent; but from the falling of
+the water since that time, there was a dry sand-bank of considerable
+extent in the centre, and the waters on each side of it were broken and
+covered with foam. Augustus being tired with tracking, had wandered from
+us to the extremity of this bank, from whence he could not be extricated
+without great hazard, unless by making him return to the bottom of the
+rapid. As this, however, would have compelled the poor fellow to pass
+the night upon the sand-bank, Mr. Kendall undertook to bring him off,
+by running with the current to the point at the commencement of the
+rapids, which he effected in a masterly manner, although the boat struck
+twice, and was in considerable danger from the violence of the eddies.
+
+We found, at the place of our encampment, a solitary old woman, sitting
+by a small fire, who seemed somewhat alarmed at her visitors, until she
+was joined, after dark, by her husband and son. As soon as the man
+understood from our signs that we were desirous of having some fish for
+supper, he instantly embarked to examine his nets; but as they proved to
+be empty, the woman generously dragged a pike out of a bundle on which
+she was sitting, and presented it to us, though it was evidently
+reserved for their own meal. In return we furnished them with a more
+substantial supper, and made them some useful presents. The weather was
+extremely sultry throughout this day; at two P.M. the thermometer stood
+in the shade at 66 degrees, and at 76 degrees when exposed to the sun.
+The refraction of the atmosphere, which we had often remarked to be
+unusually great since we had entered the Mackenzie, was this day
+particularly powerful. The mountains were distorted into the most
+extraordinary shapes, and the banks of the river, which we knew to be
+only from thirty to sixty feet high, appeared to have such an elevation,
+that it would have been impossible for us to recognise the land. The air
+became cooler in the evening, and the atmosphere less refractive. Soon
+after sunset the objects appeared in their proper form, and we enjoyed
+the prospect of the delightful mountain scenery that distinguishes this
+rapid.
+
+[Sidenote: Tuesday, 30th.] Favoured by a N.W. gale, we made great
+progress on the 30th. The temperature of the air varied in the course of
+the day from 62 degrees to 41 degrees. The brulots and sand-flies were
+very teazing wherever we landed; but these, unlike the musquitoes,
+disappear with the sun.
+
+The upper parts of the Rocky Mountains on the western side of the river
+were, at this time, covered with snow, but not those of the eastern
+side, which are, probably, less elevated than the former. We had no
+opportunity of ascertaining their height, though we conjectured that the
+loftiest did not exceed two thousand feet, as it was free from snow in
+the early part of August.
+
+[Sidenote: September, 1st.] At sunset this evening we quitted the muddy
+waters of the Mackenzie, and entered the clear stream that flows from
+the Great Bear Lake; but owing to the shallowness of the water near its
+mouth, and the beach being a mere collection of stones, we had to grope
+our way long after dark in search of a place for an encampment,
+stumbling and falling at every step. At length we espied a light about a
+mile further up the river on the opposite shore; we, therefore, crossed
+over, at the expense of some heavy blows to the boat, and tracked along
+the base of a steep bank, until we reached the fire. There we found a
+Canadian and two Indian boys who had been sent from Bear Lake three days
+before in a canoe, to procure some white mud from the banks of the
+MacKenzie to decorate our house. This man was the bearer of a letter
+from Lieutenant Back to me, which detailed the proceedings at the Fort.
+
+[Sidenote: Friday, 2nd.] We embarked at daylight, having the canoe in
+company. The weather was cold and raw throughout the day; the
+temperature from 34 degrees to 45 degrees; but the party were kept in
+constant exercise, either in tracking or walking; the steersman and
+bowman only being required in the boat. Except where the river was
+bounded by steep cliffs, the path was pretty good. Its general breadth
+varied from three hundred to five hundred yards, and its banks were
+tolerably well wooded, but the trees were small.
+
+[Sidenote: Saturday, 3rd.] This morning the ground was firmly frozen,
+and the thermometer stood at 28 degrees, when we commenced our
+operations. Early in the afternoon we arrived at the lower part of the
+mountain, and which we had kept in view this day, and the greater part
+of the preceding. As we had now to ascend a succession of rapids for
+fifteen miles, and two of our crew were lame, I directed the canoe to be
+laid up on the shore, and took the Canadian and the boys to assist at
+the tow-line. We had not advanced more than two miles before we met with
+an accident that was likely to have been attended with serious
+consequences: in the act of hauling round a projecting point, and in the
+strength of the current, the tow-line broke, and the boat was driven
+with great force against a large stone at some distance from the shore,
+having deep water on every side. There it lay with the broadside exposed
+to the whole pressure of the current, beating violently against the
+stone; and from this situation it could not have been extricated, had
+not Gustavus Aird, the strongest man of the party, ventured to wade into
+the river at the imminent risque of being swept off his feet, until he
+could catch the rope that was thrown to him from the boat. As soon as it
+was dragged to the shore, we found that part of the keel was gone, and
+the remainder much twisted, and all the fastenings of the lowest plank
+were loosened. The carpenter set to work to repair this mischief in the
+best manner he could with the materials he had, and before night the
+boat was again launched. The leaks, however, could not be quite stopped,
+and in our further progress one of the men was constantly employed
+baling out the water.
+
+[Sidenote: Sunday, 4th.] The next day's operations were tedious and
+hazardous as long as the rapids continued. The men had to walk with the
+tow-line along a narrow ledge that jutted out from the base of a steep
+rocky cliff, which was very slippery from the rain that had fallen in
+the night: a false step might have proved fatal; and we rejoiced when,
+having passed the rapids, we found earthy banks and a better path. The
+services of Augustus and the Indian lads being no longer required, I
+despatched them to the Fort, to apprize the party there of our approach.
+
+We had a severe frost this night: at daylight in the morning the
+thermometer was down to 20 degrees, and a raw fog contributed to make
+the weather very cold and comfortless. The sun shone forth about eleven,
+and soon dispersed the fog, and then the temperature gradually rose to
+54 degrees.
+
+[Sidenote: Monday, 5th.] At four P.M. we arrived at the foot of the
+upper rapid, and in two hours afterwards entered the Great Bear Lake,
+and reached the house at seven. Dr. Richardson having returned from his
+voyage to the northern part of the lake, the members of the Expedition
+were now, for the first time, all assembled. We heartily congratulated
+each other on this circumstance, and also on the prospect of being
+snugly settled in our winter-quarters before the severe weather. Dr.
+Richardson had surveyed the Bear Lake to the influx of Dease's River,
+near its N.E. termination, at which point it is nearest to the
+Coppermine River. He fixed upon the first rapid in Dease River as the
+best point to which the eastern detachment of the Expedition could
+direct its steps, on its return from the mouth of the Coppermine River
+the following season. The rapid was, by observation, in latitude 66
+degrees 53 minutes N., and longitude 118 degrees 35 minutes W., and the
+variation of the magnetic needle there, was 47 degrees 29 minutes E.
+
+THE FOLLOWING TABLE CONTAINS THE DISTANCES TRAVELLED BY THE EXPEDITION
+DURING THE SUMMER OF 1825.
+
+  Principal Places.                                       Statute Miles.
+  ----------------------------------------------------------------------
+  From New York to Penetanguishene, by the route we travelled        760
+    Lake Huron                                                       250
+    Lake Superior                                                    406
+  From Fort William to Cumberland House                             1018
+    Cumberland House to Fort Chipewyan                               840
+    Chipewyan to Fort Resolution, Slave Lake                         240
+    Fort Resolution to the commencement of the Mackenzie             135
+    Head of the Mackenzie to Fort Simpson                            103
+    Fort Simpson to Bear Lake River                                  271
+    Bear Lake River to, and the return from, Garry Island           1206
+  Length of the Bear Lake River to the Fort                           91
+  Dr. Richardson's excursion to the north-east termination of }
+    Bear Lake                                                 }      483
+                                                                    ----
+  Distance travelled                                                5803
+                                                                    ----
+  Number of Miles surveyed                                          2593
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[1] An attentive perusal of Sir Alexander Mackenzie's Narrative leads me
+to the conclusion, that it was this northern branch which that traveller
+pursued in his voyage to Whale Island.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+TRANSACTIONS AT FORT FRANKLIN, 1825-26.
+
+
+Mr. Dease having passed the winter of 1824-25 at the Big Island of
+Mackenzie, arrived here with fifteen Canadian voyagers, Beaulieu, the
+interpreter, and four Chipewyan hunters, on the twenty-seventh of July,
+1825; which, on account of the drifting of the ice, was as soon as he
+could, with safety, ascend the Bear Lake River. Several of the Dog-Rib
+Indians were on the spot, which enabled him to take immediate steps
+towards procuring a supply of dried meat for our winter use, as well as
+of fresh meat for present consumption. It having been ascertained that
+the Rein-deer are most abundant in the north-east quarter of the lake,
+during the months of August and September, a select party of Indians was
+despatched to hunt thereabout, under the direction of the interpreter,
+who took a large canoe for the purpose of bringing home the produce of
+their hunt. Other men were sent to inform the Hare Indians of our wish
+to purchase any meat they might bring to the establishment. Our
+principal subsistence, however, was, to be derived from the water, and
+Mr. Dease was determined in the selection of the spot on which our
+residence was to be erected, by its proximity to that part of the lake
+where the fish had usually been abundant. The place decided upon was the
+site of an old fort belonging to the North-West Company, which had been
+abandoned many years; our buildings being required of a much larger
+size, we derived very little benefit from its materials. The wood in the
+immediate vicinity having been all cut down for fuel by the former
+residents, the party was obliged to convey the requisite timber in rafts
+from a considerable distance, which, of course, occasioned trouble and
+delay. We found, however, on our arrival, all the buildings in a
+habitable state, but wanting many internal arrangements to fit them for
+a comfortable winter residence. They were disposed so as to form three
+sides of a square, the officers' house being in the centre, those for
+the men on the right, with a house for the interpreter's family, and the
+store on the left. A blacksmith's shop and meat store were added, and
+the whole was inclosed by the stockading of the original fort, which we
+found highly serviceable in screening us from the snow-drift and wintry
+blasts. The officers' dwelling measured forty-four feet by twenty-four,
+and contained a hall and four apartments, beside a kitchen. That of the
+men was thirty-six feet by twenty-three, and was divided into three
+rooms. These buildings were placed on a dry sandy bank, about eighty
+yards from the lake, and twenty-five feet above it; at the distance of a
+half a mile in our rear, the ground rose to the height of one hundred
+and fifty feet, and continued in an even ridge, on which, though the
+timber had been felled, we found plenty of small trees for fuel. This
+ridge bounded our view to the north; and to the west, though confined to
+less than two miles, the prospect was pretty, from its embracing a small
+lake, and the mouth of a narrow stream that flowed in at its head. Our
+southern view commanded the south-west arm of Bear Lake, which is here
+four miles wide, and not deeper than from three to five fathoms, except
+in the channel of the river, which conveys its waters to the Mackenzie.
+We had also, in front, the Clark-hill, a mountain about thirty-six miles
+distant, which was always visible in clear weather. When the refraction
+was great, we saw the tops of some other hills, belonging to the range
+that extends from Clark-hill to the rapid in Bear Lake River.
+
+Immediately under the sandy soil on which the house stood, there is a
+bed of tenacious bluish clay, of unknown thickness, which, even in the
+months of August and September, was firmly frozen at the depth of
+twenty-one inches from the surface. No rocks were exposed in any part,
+and wherever the surface had been torn up, a clayey soil appeared. Many
+boulder stones of granite, limestone, sandstone and trap rocks, were
+scattered about the lake, not far from the shore.
+
+The trees at some distance from our fort consisted of black and white
+spruce, and larch, generally small, though a few of the better grown
+measured from four to five feet in girth, and were from fifty to
+fifty-five feet high. Dr. Richardson ascertained, by counting the annual
+rings, that some of them, in a sound state, were upwards of one hundred
+and thirty years old; while others, which were not much greater in size,
+had two hundred and fifty rings, but these were decayed at the heart.
+
+The officers had done me the honour, previous to my arrival, of giving
+the name of Franklin to the fort, which I felt a grateful pleasure in
+retaining at their desire, though I had intended naming it Fort
+Reliance. The number of persons belonging to the establishment amounted
+to fifty: consisting of five officers, including Mr. Dease; nineteen
+British seamen, marines, and voyagers; nine Canadians; two Esquimaux;
+Beaulieu, and four Chipewyan hunters; three women, six children, and
+one Indian lad; besides a few infirm Indians, who required temporary
+support. This party was far too large to gain subsistence by fishing at
+one station only; two houses were, therefore, constructed at four and
+seven miles distance, from the fort, to which parties were sent,
+provided with the necessary fishing implements; and not more than thirty
+persons were left to reside at the principal establishment. From fifteen
+to twenty nets were kept in use, under the superintendence of Pascal
+Cote, an experienced fisherman, who had two assistants. These were
+placed opposite the house, and towards the end of summer, and in autumn,
+they yielded daily from three to eight hundred fish, of the kind called
+"the Herring Salmon of Bear Lake," and occasionally some trout,
+tittameg, and carp. Four Dog-Rib Indians, who were engaged to hunt the
+Rein-deer in the neighbourhood of the fort, from want of skill,
+contributed very little fresh meat to our store. Augustus and Ooligbuck
+employed themselves in the same service, but from not being accustomed
+to hunt in a woody country, they were not more successful.
+
+The consideration of next importance to furnishing the party with food,
+was to provide regular occupation for the men, who had not the resources
+to employ their time which the officers possessed. Accordingly, some
+were appointed to attend exclusively to the fishing nets, others to
+bring home the meat whenever the hunters killed any deer; some were
+stationed to fell wood for fuel, others to convey it to the house, and a
+third set to split it for use. Two of the most expert travellers on
+snow-shoes were kept in nearly constant employment conveying letters to
+and from the posts in the Mackenzie and Slave Lake. As the days
+shortened, it was necessary to find employment during the long evenings,
+for those resident at the house, and a school was, therefore,
+established on three nights of the week, from seven o'clock to nine, for
+their instruction, in reading, writing, and arithmetic; and it was
+attended by most of the British party. They were divided in equal
+portions amongst the officers, whose labour was amply repaid by the
+advancement their pupils made: some of those who began with the
+alphabet, learned to read and write with tolerable correctness. Sunday
+was a day of rest; and, with the exception of two or three of the
+Canadians, the whole party uniformly attended Divine service, morning
+and evening. If, on the other evenings for which no particular
+occupation was appointed, the men felt the time tedious, or if they
+expressed a wish to vary their employments, the hall was at their
+service, to play any game they might choose; and on these occasions they
+were invariably joined by the officers. By thus participating in their
+amusements, the men became more attached to us, at the same time that we
+contributed to their health and cheerfulness. The hearts and feelings of
+the whole party were united into one common desire to make the time pass
+as agreeably as possible to each other, until the return of spring
+should enable them to resume the great object of the Expedition.
+
+The officers found employment in making and registering the
+thermometrical, magnetical, and atmospherical observations, which were
+hourly noted from eight A.M. to midnight; and, in addition to the duties
+which they had in common, each had a peculiar department allotted to
+him.
+
+Lieutenant Back had the superintendence of the men; and the accurate
+drawings which he finished during the winter, from sketches taken on the
+voyage, afford ample proof of his diligence and skill. Dr. Richardson,
+besides the duties of medical officer, which, from the numerous
+applications made by the natives, were not inconsiderable, devoted his
+attention to natural history, as well as to a series of observations on
+the force of the sun's radiation. Mr. Kendall constructed all the charts
+after the data had been recalculated by myself; he also made several
+drawings; and he undertook an interesting series of observations on the
+velocity of sound. To Mr. Dease the charge was committed of whatever
+related to the procuring and issuing of provision, and the entire
+management of the Canadian voyagers and Indians.
+
+Previous to the officers leaving London, Dr. Fitton, President of the
+Geological Society, had the kindness to devote much of his time to their
+instruction in geology; and having furnished them with a portable
+collection for the purpose of reference on the voyage, Dr. Richardson,
+when he had leisure, explained these specimens, weekly, to the party,
+and assisted them in reading on this science, which proved a most
+agreeable and useful recreation to us all.
+
+Some of the preceding remarks refer to a period of our residence later
+than that which I am about to enter upon; but I thought it best to
+insert them here, that the mention of them might not interrupt the
+narrative of occurrences which I shall now resume.
+
+[Sidenote: Thursday, 8th.] On September 8th, two men were sent off to
+Slave Lake, in a canoe, with a despatch, containing an account of our
+proceedings, addressed to His Majesty's Secretary of State for the
+Colonies; and as we expected letters from England, by the way of
+Hudson's Bay, they directed to await their arrival at Slave Lake. There
+was almost constant rain from the 11th to the 14th, which much retarded
+the work going on out of doors, and particularly the construction of an
+observatory, which we were desirous of completing as soon as possible,
+that the magnetical observations might be commenced. We found
+employment, however, in whitewashing and fitting up the interior of the
+different houses. The 15th proving fine, we established a meridian line,
+and ascertained the variation by each of the compasses.
+
+[Sidenote: Tuesday, 20th.] Beaulieu returned with his family, the
+Chipewyan hunters, and some Dog-Ribs, bringing a supply of dried meat,
+rein-deer tongues, and fat, sufficient for a month's consumption, which
+was reserved for use when the fishing should become unproductive. These
+men reported, that at the time they quitted the northern shores of the
+lake, the deer were retiring towards this quarter; which intelligence
+accounted for the Indians having killed four within a day's march from
+the house.
+
+[Sidenote: Friday, 23rd.] The chimney of the last of the buildings being
+completed this morning, the flag-staff erected, and all the men
+assembled, we commemorated these events by the festivities usual on the
+opening of a new establishment in this country. The first part of the
+ceremony was to salute the flag; the men having drawn themselves up in
+line, and the women and children, and all the Indians resident at the
+fort, being disposed in groups by their side, a deputation came to
+solicit the presence of the officers. When we appeared, we found our
+guns ornamented with blue ribbons, and we were requested to advance and
+fire at a piece of money which was fastened to the flag-staff. The men
+then fired two volleys and gave three hearty cheers, after which Wilson
+the piper struck up a lively tune, and placing himself at the head of
+his companions, marched with them round to the entrance of the hall,
+where they drank to His Majesty's health, and to the success of the
+Expedition. In the evening the hall was opened for a dance, which was
+attended by the whole party, dressed in their gayest attire. The dancing
+was kept up with spirit to the music of the violin and bagpipes, until
+daylight.
+
+[Sidenote: Monday, 26th.] These entertainments over, Beaulieu and the
+hunters were despatched to the chase, and they soon added two moose-deer
+to our store.
+
+[Sidenote: Tuesday, 27th.] There had been much rain in the course of the
+preceding week, and the temperature was generally mild, but a fall of
+snow took place on the 27th. Some Dog-Ribs came to the fort on that day
+with the produce of their autumnal hunt, which was very inconsiderable,
+but they rendered good service to us by taking away with them several of
+their relations, who had been subsisting on our bounty for some time.
+After their departure there only remained one man of the tribe, who,
+being afflicted with rheumatic fever, was retained under the care of Dr.
+Richardson. Warm clothing was provided for him, and a comfortable
+leathern lodge was erected for himself and family.
+
+[Sidenote: October, 1st.] The month of October commenced with frost and
+snow, and the party were now furnished with fur caps, leathern mittens
+and trowsers, and the rest of their warm winter-clothing. This day we
+completed the erection of the observatory, and adjusted an instrument to
+the magnetic meridian, for the purpose of observing the variations of
+the needle.
+
+[Sidenote: Tuesday, 11th.] Much snow fell on the night of the 7th, and
+on the 11th the small lake was firmly frozen over, and the ground in the
+same state. All the migratory birds being now gone, except a few ducks,
+which still lingered in the open water of Bear Lake, we considered this
+day to be the first of the winter. It was remarkably clear and fine, and
+we hailed the commencement of this season with a degree of pleasure,
+from its contrast with the wet unsettled weather which marks the close
+of summer. A few clouds passing over the sun's disk, produced an
+instantaneous depression of ten degrees of the mercury in a thermometer
+exposed to the sun's rays. The atmospherical refraction was remarkably
+strong at this time. We had repeated opportunities, in the course of the
+winter, of observing it to be greatest in similar states of the
+atmosphere.
+
+The boats were now secured for the winter in a sheltered place, and
+screened as much as possible from the effects of the wind and snow
+drift, by a strong fence made of boughs and branches.
+
+[Sidenote: Friday, 14th.] We were surprised on the 14th by the arrival
+of two Canadians from Fort Norman, with letters from Governor Simpson,
+and other gentlemen in the southern districts, containing satisfactory
+answers to the requisitions for stores that I had made in my passage
+through the country. We were also pleased to learn that Thomas Matthews,
+the carpenter, whom we had left at Cumberland House, on account of his
+leg being broken, had reached Fort Norman, in the Company's canoe; and I
+felt much indebted to Mr. James Keith, and Mr. Smith, Chief Factors,
+for the care and tenderness with which they had conveyed him through the
+country.
+
+The season at which the ice begins to form, is the most favourable for
+fishing in the lakes of this country, and we then procured from four to
+five hundred daily. Those not required for immediate consumption, were
+hung on a stage to freeze, in which state they keep until the following
+spring. But we could not derive the full advantage from the season,
+because the drift ice, making it unsafe to keep the nets set in Bear
+Lake, they were taken up on the 18th. Near a month elapsed before they
+could be set with safety under the ice; our first attempts resulting in
+the loss of three nets. We procured, however, a few fish from the small
+lake, during this interval, and the rest of our food was supplied from
+the store of dried meat.
+
+[Sidenote: Thursday, 20th.] We were visited on the 20th by a storm of
+snow, which continued, without intermission, for thirty-six hours.
+Although it put an end to the skating, and the games on the ice, which
+had been our evenings' amusement for the preceding week, yet the change
+made every one glad, because the snow was now deep enough for winter
+travelling. We had learned, some days before, that the hunters had
+stored fifteen rein-deer in the woods, and on the 22nd four men were
+despatched with sledges to bring them to the fort.
+
+The first throw off of the dog-sledges for the season never fails to
+attract general attention; accordingly the whole party was collected to
+witness it on this occasion. They set off at full speed, and were soon
+out of sight. From this time dog-sledges were used to drag the fuel,
+which had been hitherto done by the men. We sent a party to cut down
+timber, and saw it into planks, fit for the construction of another
+boat.
+
+[Sidenote: Wednesday, 26th.] On the 26th the thermometer first fell
+below zero, but the month closed with a very calm, mild day. Mr. Kendall
+and I were employed in measuring a geographical mile on the small lake,
+preparatory to a series of observations on the velocity of sound. The
+only ferine companions we now had were a few hardy quadrupeds and birds,
+capable of enduring the winter. The variety of the former was confined
+to wolves, foxes, martens, hares, mice, and a few rein-deer. Of the
+feathered tribe, there were the raven and Canadian crow, some
+snow-birds, wood-peckers, red-caps, crossbeaks, Canada, rock, and willow
+partridges, and a few hawks and owls.
+
+[Sidenote: November, 9th.] Having received information that the Hudson's
+Bay Company intended sending their annual despatch from the Mackenzie
+River to York Factory, by the close of this month, and the ice on Bear
+Lake and the Mackenzie River being, on the 9th, sufficiently strong, we
+forwarded a packet of letters to Fort Norman, and a dog-sledge to convey
+Thomas Matthews to this place. On the 15th the nets were reset under the
+ice, and we were relieved from the necessity of putting the party on
+short allowance. We had the additional pleasure of learning that the
+hunters had killed ten rein-deer. The men returned from Fort Norman on
+the 18th, accompanied by Thomas Matthews, whose leg was yet too weak for
+him to walk more than a short distance.
+
+During the middle, and towards the close of November, parheliae were
+frequent; the most brilliant appeared on the 27th; it continued as long
+as the sun was above the horizon. The atmosphere was cloudless, and
+apparently free from haze, except just about the sun, which seemed to
+gleam through a fog. The surrounding circle was nearly complete, and
+displayed the prismatic colours vividly; from the centre of the sun's
+disk a beam of bright light extended upwards several degrees beyond the
+circle. The inner radius of the circle measured 21 degrees 34 minutes,
+and the outer 22 degrees 50 minutes. The wind blew fresh all the day
+from E.N.E., and the temperature was 10 degrees. In the evening the moon
+was encircled by two distinct halos; temperature 7 degrees.
+
+[Sidenote: Tuesday, 29th.] This morning the principal leader of the
+Dog-Ribs, and a large party of his tribe, came to the Fort. It is usual
+for Indians, on the first visit to an establishment, to make their
+approach in line, with much formality; but on this occasion our visitors
+showed an unusual degree of caution. Their distrust had originated in a
+very trifling occurrence at the close of our house-warming festivities
+on the 23rd of September. Some of the Canadians having asked Mr. Dease
+if our Highlandmen did not come from the same country with the rest of
+the English party, were told that they were natives of the mountainous
+lands, or _Montagnards_. This name unfortunately being used by the
+voyagers to designate the Dog-Ribs, was considered by the Highlanders to
+be a term of reproach when applied to themselves, and a scuffle ensued.
+Harmony was soon restored by the officers sending the most noisy to bed,
+and next morning the true meaning of the word Montagnard was explained
+to the Highlandmen, and the party set about their usual occupations with
+their wonted good feeling towards each other. Not so with an unlucky
+Dog-Rib, who had been attracted to the scene by hearing the name
+applied by the voyagers to his countrymen bandied about from one to the
+other, and thrusting his head into the crowd had received a blow. This
+at once confirmed all his fears, and he fled to spread a report amongst
+his countrymen that the white people intended to destroy the Indians.
+Although his report was not fully believed, yet it produced the feeling
+of distrust which the Indians manifested on their approach to the house.
+It was entirely removed by the explanation we gave. These Indians having
+brought a quantity of furs for the Hudson's Bay Company, as well as
+dried meat for ourselves, and I having understood from Mr. Dease that it
+would be an accommodation to them if they were permitted to deposit
+their furs at this place, instead of carrying them to Fort Norman, I
+acceded to this suggestion, and directed Mr. Dease to advance from our
+stores the goods required for the purchase of the furs, which were to be
+returned when we should visit that fort in the spring.
+
+An old man belonging to the Company's establishment at Fort Norman
+arrived this day with his wife, to stay some time with us, because the
+supply of provision had failed at that post. We felt much pleasure in
+sharing our means with this aged couple, who were much reduced by their
+late scanty fare.
+
+The close of November was marked by a succession of strong east winds,
+and a mildness of temperature, rare at this season. On the 30th the
+thermometer rose from +18 degrees to 29 degrees above zero, on the
+occurrence of a gale from the north.
+
+[Sidenote: December, 1st.] The first of December being a cloudless day,
+we endeavoured to observe the latitude at noon, but failed, owing to the
+extraordinary atmospherical refraction. [Sidenote: Friday, 2nd.] At
+midnight, on the 2nd, there was a shower of hail, so small that we could
+hardly distinguish it from rain. Dr. Richardson thought he perceived
+lightning. Temperature +22 degrees, calm. On the night of the 4th
+another instance of a sudden increase of temperature from +7 degrees to
+26 degrees was observed, on a north wind succeeding a calm.
+
+The fishery having gradually declined for some days, our nets were
+removed nearer to the entrance of Bear Lake River, where the current
+continued to keep the water open for a considerable space. We then
+procured a daily supply of fish sufficient for the rations of the
+household, as well as the dogs, though our number was now increased by
+the party from the more distant fishery, which had proved unproductive.
+The allowance was seven of the herring salmon to a man per day, and two
+to each dog.
+
+The shortness of the days now precluding the Indians from hunting, many
+came, according to their custom, to spear fish at the head of Bear Lake
+River, and their numbers gradually increased. They were not, however,
+successful, nor diligent, preferring to beg what they could from us, and
+sending their women and children to subsist on the offal of the fish
+used at the fort. To encourage them to greater exertion, I provided them
+with nets, and other fishing materials, but their indolence led them to
+make a very ungrateful return; for on several occasions they emptied our
+nets in the night, and thus not only robbed us of what they took away,
+but, by deranging the nets, deprived us of the whole of that day's
+supply. We never could ascertain the perpetrators of these thefts. The
+blame was invariably thrown on some aged and infirm men, who denied it.
+Notwithstanding the straits to which they became reduced, they could not
+be persuaded to go off to a more productive fishery, until we were
+compelled to withhold all supplies, from fear of starving our own party.
+These Indians showed more indolence, and less regard for truth and
+honesty, than any other tribes with which we had dealings. Their
+sufferings are often extreme, and some of them perish every year from
+famine; although, from the abundance of fish in this country, but slight
+exertion would be required to lay up, at the proper seasons, a stock for
+the whole year.
+
+The difficulty of procuring nourishment frequently induces the women of
+this tribe to destroy their female children. Two pregnant women of the
+party then at the fort, made known their intention of acting on this
+inhuman custom, though Mr. Dease threatened them with our heaviest
+displeasure if they put it into execution: we learned that, after they
+left us, one actually did destroy her child; the infant of the other
+woman proved to be a boy. Infanticide is mentioned by Hearne as a common
+crime amongst the northern Indians, but this was the first instance that
+came under our notice, and I understand it is now very rare amongst the
+Chipewyan tribes;--an improvement in their moral character which may be
+fairly attributed to the influence of the traders resident among them.
+
+[Sidenote: Sunday, 18th.] On the 18th a party of sixteen Hare Indians,
+two Copper Indians, and a Loucheux, arrived with sledges of dried
+rein-deer meat and furs. While the house was in confusion from the
+unpacking of their lading, a melancholy scene took place, which excited
+the warmest sympathy. The wife of one of our Dog-Rib hunters brought her
+only child, a female, for medical advice. As she entered the room it was
+evident that the hand of death was upon it. In the absence of Dr.
+Richardson, who happened to be out, all the remedies were applied that
+were judged likely to be of service; and as soon as he returned, there
+being yet a faint pulsation, other means were tried, but in vain. So
+gentle was its last sigh, that the mother was not at first aware of its
+death, and continued to press the child against her bosom. As soon,
+however, as she perceived that life had fled, she cast herself on the
+floor in agony, heightened by the consciousness of having delayed to
+seek relief till too late, and by apprehension of the anger of her
+husband, who was doatingly attached to the child. The Indians evinced
+their participation in her affliction by silence, and a strong
+expression of pity in their countenances. At the dawn of day the poor
+creature, though almost exhausted by her ceaseless lamentation, carried
+the body across the lake for interment.
+
+[Sidenote: Tuesday, 20th.] The 20th being a very stormy day, we were
+surprised at the arrival of two voyagers from Fort Good Hope, bearers of
+letters from Mr. C. Dease, conveying the gratifying intelligence that
+the Loucheux had seen the Esquimaux since the autumn, and that the
+latter had found the presents which had been left at their huts, and
+would be delighted to welcome the return of the white people to the
+Esquimaux lands next spring.
+
+[Sidenote: Thursday, 22d.] Our constant occupations had made the time
+pass so swiftly, that the shortest day came almost unexpectedly upon us.
+The sun rose this morning, (the 22d,) at 10h 24m, thirteen minutes
+earlier than its appearance was expected from calculation, owing to the
+great refraction. Mr. Kendall and I measured its meridional altitude
+from the lake with two instruments, the one bringing its upper limb to
+the top of the land four miles distant, the elevation of which had been
+ascertained to be eight minutes, and the other to its base, the
+depression of which was two minutes. The mean of both these
+observations, corrected for refraction by the tables in the Nautical
+Almanack, gave a result of 65 degrees 11 minutes 56 seconds N., which
+latitude exactly corresponds with the best observations made in the
+preceding autumn. At 8h 30m P.M. a halo was observed, whose radius
+measured 28 degrees 40 minutes from the moon; and at an equal altitude
+with the latter body there were two paraselenae, which, as well as the
+moon, were intersected by a luminous circle, having the zenith for its
+centre, and a diameter of 94 degrees 15 minutes. The length of our
+shortest day did not exceed five hours, but the long nights were
+enlivened by most brilliant moon-light, and we had frequent and very
+fine appearances of the Aurora Borealis. The latter phenomenon made some
+of its grandest displays on the 26th of October, the 2d of November,
+and the 7th of December. On all these occasions the disturbed motions of
+the magnetic needle were very remarkable, and a most careful series of
+observations convinced the party that they had a close connexion with
+the direction of the beams of light of which the aurora was composed. My
+observations also led me to conclude that the deviations of the needle
+were, in a certain degree, connected with changes in the weather; for,
+previous to a gale or a snow-storm, the deviations were always
+considerable; but during the continuance of the gale, the needle almost
+invariably remained stationary.
+
+Preparations were made for the celebration of Christmas. The house was
+replastered with mud, all the rooms whitewashed and repainted, and
+Matthews displayed his taste by ornamenting a chandelier with cut paper,
+and trinkets. On the evening of the 24th the Indian hunters' women and
+children were invited to share in a game of snap-dragon, to them an
+entire novelty. It would be as difficult to describe the delight which
+the sport afforded them after they recovered their first surprise, as to
+convey the full effect of the scene. When the candles were extinguished,
+the blue flame of the burning spirits shone on the rude features of our
+native companions, in whose countenances were pourtrayed the eager desire
+of possessing the fruit, and the fear of the penalty. Christmas Day
+falling on a Sunday, the party were regaled with the best fare our
+stores could supply; and on the following evening a dance was given, at
+which were present sixty persons, including the Indians, who sat as
+spectators of the merry scene. Seldom, perhaps, in such a confined space
+as our hall, or in the same number of persons, was there greater variety
+of character, or greater confusion of tongues. The party consisted of
+Englishmen, Highlanders, (who mostly conversed with each other in
+Gaelic,) Canadians, Esquimaux, Chipewyans, Dog-Ribs, Hare Indians, Cree
+women and children, mingled together in perfect harmony. The amusements
+were varied by English, Gaelic, and French songs. After these holidays
+were over, the Dog-Ribs at length yielded to the repeated solicitations
+of Mr. Dease, and removed in a body to a distant part of the lake, where
+they now confessed the fishery was more abundant. As the hunters were
+drawing rations from our store, he despatched them in quest of deer,
+furnishing them also with nets. After which there remained at the
+establishment, only one infirm Indian and his wife.
+
+[Sidenote: January, 1st.] January 1st, 1826. This morning the men called
+in the hall to offer the congratulations of the season to the officers,
+and we afterwards assembled to read divine service. On the evening of
+the 2nd, similar festivities were held to those at Christmas, to welcome
+the new year. The temperature was at -49 degrees on the 1st, which was
+its lowest state during this winter. This severe weather was of short
+continuance, for on the 3rd there was a storm of snow, and the
+thermometer rose to -9 degrees.
+
+[Sidenote: 4th.] Accompanied by Mr. Dease, and Fuller, the carpenter, I
+walked several miles in search of birch-trees fit for the keel and
+timbers of the new boat. We found some that would answer for the latter
+purpose, but none for the keel; we, therefore, substituted pine. The
+general depth of snow in the woody and sheltered parts was two feet.
+[Sidenote: Monday, 16th.] On the 16th, by the return of the two men who
+had been sent to Slave Lake, we had the happiness of receiving a packet
+of letters, which left England in the preceding June. Beside the more
+interesting private communications, our friends had been kind enough to
+forward piles of newspapers, and several periodical publications. The
+'Quarterly Review,' the 'Edinburgh Philosophical Journal,' and a series
+of the 'Literary Gazette,' and the 'Mechanics' Magazine,' were spread
+upon the table, and afforded us the most agreeable amusement, as well as
+never-failing topics for conversation. Could any of our friends have
+dropped in upon us, in the evening, they would have found us discussing
+the events of the by-gone year, with all the earnestness and interest
+which we could have shown had they been the occurrences of the day, and
+depended upon our decision. This valuable packet had nigh been lost on
+its way through the interior, owing to the treachery of an Indian. The
+fellow had undertaken to guide the Canadian servants of the Hudson Bay
+Company, who had it in charge, from York Factory to Cumberland House;
+but supposing, from its being unusual to forward packets at that season,
+that it must contain something of value, he seized an opportunity, when
+the two men had gone a little way from the river side, to steal the
+canoe, with its contents, and cross the river. There were no means of
+pursuit, and the poor men, destitute of food, without a gun, or even the
+means of making a fire, were obliged to march to the nearest
+establishment, through a very rugged and thickly-wooded country. They
+reached it after many days travelling, and much suffering, and as soon
+as they arrived, Mr. Mackintosh, the chief of the department,
+immediately sent off different parties in search of the culprit. They
+did not find him, though they got possession of the packet, which was
+torn open, and the letters scattered upon the ground. I need hardly
+mention that I afterwards remunerated the Canadians for their
+sufferings and good conduct on this occasion.
+
+[Sidenote: Sunday, 22nd.] On the morning of the 22nd we perceived a gray
+wolf crossing the lake, and Augustus and Ooligbuck went in pursuit. The
+speed of the animal, however, so much outstripped theirs, that it cooly
+halted to snap up an unfortunate fox which happened to cross its path,
+and bore it off in triumph. The visits of this animal were repeated for
+three successive days, and it at last became so bold as to steal fish,
+on two occasions, from a sledge which the dogs were accustomed to draw
+home from the nets, without a driver. The dogs were not touched, but
+this was accounted for when the wolf was killed, and found to be a
+female, as Mr. Dease informed us that at this season of the year the
+female wolves never attack the dog.
+
+[Sidenote: February.] The month of February was a very anxious period of
+our winter's residence. The produce of the nets and fishing lines had
+been gradually diminishing during January, until the supply did not
+afford more than three or four of the small herrings per man; and none
+could be furnished to the dogs. The stock of dried meat was expended,
+and serious apprehensions were entertained of the party's suffering from
+want of food. The fish too, from being out of season, afforded very
+little nourishment, and frequent indisposition was the consequence with
+us all. Three of the stoutest men with whom this diet particularly
+disagreed, suffered very much from diarrhoea. It became, therefore,
+necessary to draw upon the stores of provision which had been set apart
+for the voyage along the sea-coast, and, on the 6th, we despatched three
+sledges to Fort Norman, for some pemmican, arrow root, and portable
+soup: they were likewise to bring any iron that could be procured from
+that establishment fit for being converted into nails or fastenings for
+the intended boat. This being the last opportunity of the season for
+forwarding letters to the southern department, I wrote to Governor
+Simpson and the council at York Factory, requesting that supplies of
+provisions might be stored for the Expedition, on the route to Canada
+and York Factory, and that the necessary means of conveyance might be
+provided for its return in 1827. All these arrangements requiring to be
+made a year in advance, I included the whole party in the estimate of
+the numbers to be provided for, that there might be no want of
+provision, if the western part of the Expedition should, from any cause,
+be obliged to retrace its steps. By the same conveyance I sent an
+account of our proceedings, with maps and drawings, to be forwarded to
+the Colonial Office.
+
+[Sidenote: Saturday, 4th.] On the 4th of this month, when all were
+heartily tired of short allowance, a report was brought of the traces of
+a moose deer having been seen about twelve miles from the fort. Had the
+days been longer, and a crust formed upon the snow, the hunters would
+have found no great difficulty in running down the animal, but our
+principal hope lay in their getting within shot without "raising
+it,"--the expression used when a deer is scared. Beaulieu being the most
+expert moose-hunter, went out on this occasion, accompanied by two
+others, Landre a Chipewyan lad, and a Dog-Rib hunter. When they arrived
+on the deer's track, they found that it had been raised, probably by the
+Indians who first discovered it; but anxious to procure meat for the
+fort, they commenced the pursuit. From their knowledge of the habits of
+the animal, and of the winding course it takes, they were enabled to
+shorten the distance; but after running four successive days without
+coming in sight, Beaulieu had the misfortune to fall over the stump of a
+tree, and sprain his ankle; the other two hunters being previously tired
+out. When this accident happened, they knew they were near the deer, and
+that it would soon give in, because its footsteps were stained with
+blood. Beaulieu, however, on account of his lameness, returned to the
+house, and his companions came with him. During the chase they
+bivouacked on the snow, and subsisted on a few ptarmigan which they
+killed. Landre after a night's rest, again set out, and was successful
+after two more day's running; not, however, without having nearly lost
+his life, for the moose, on receiving a shot, made a rush at him,
+striking furiously with his fore feet. He had just time to shelter
+himself behind a tree, upon which the animal spent its efforts, until
+his gun was again ready.
+
+Landre's arrival with the joyful intelligence of his success, was hailed
+as the commencement of a season of plenty. When the moose meat was
+brought in, we had not an ounce of provision in store, and it was,
+therefore, most acceptable; although, from the manner in which it was
+hunted down, it proved exceedingly tough. [Sidenote: Friday, 10th.] In
+the evening, to increase our satisfaction, an Indian arrived with the
+information that the fish were plentiful at the station to which the
+Dog-Ribs had removed, and likewise that the hunters belonging to the
+fort had killed some rein-deer near their lodges. We immediately
+equipped four men with nets and lines, and sent them back with the
+Indian, giving them directions to report whether more persons could gain
+subsistence there. Their report, a few days afterwards, being
+favourable, four more men were despatched thither. They sent us some
+tittameg, weighing from six to eight pounds, which were the more
+acceptable, because none of that kind had been taken in our nets since
+the lake had been frozen over. By the time the moose was finished, the
+men came back from Fort Norman, with three bags of pemmican, which
+enabled us to continue the daily issue of rations, though the fare was
+still scanty.
+
+[Sidenote: Saturday, 25th] On the 25th, Beaulieu, accompanied by two
+men, went off in one direction, and the Dog-Rib hunters in another, in
+search of deer. Both parties were successful. From the former we
+received a summons, after four days' absence, to send sledges for meat,
+but not so from the Dog-Ribs, for they, to compensate for their long
+abstinence, consumed almost all the meat, and gorged themselves to such
+a degree, that they were unable to move, and became quite ill. From this
+period we had a sufficient supply of provision, because the fisheries
+improved, and we received deer from time to time. The men who had been
+indisposed gained strength, from the increased quantity, and amended
+quality, of their food; and we had also the gratification of seeing the
+dogs daily fatten, amidst the general plenty. The conduct of the men
+during the season of scarcity was beyond all praise; and the following
+anecdote is worthy of record, as displaying the excellent feeling of a
+British seaman, and as speaking the sentiments of the whole party.
+Talking with Robert Spinks as to the difference of his present food,
+from that to which he had been accustomed on board ship, I said I was
+glad the necessity was over of keeping them on short allowance. "Why,
+sir," said he, "we never minded about the short allowance, but were
+fearful of having to use the pemmican intended for next summer; we only
+care about the next voyage, and shall all be glad when the spring comes,
+that we may set off; besides, at the worst time, we could always spare a
+fish for each of our dogs." During the period of short allowance, the
+three dogs under the charge of this man were kept in better condition
+than any of the others.
+
+We now called the men home from the nearest fishery, and set their nets
+near the Bear Lake River, but the men at the distant station with the
+Indians were kept there, and occasionally supplied the fort with fine
+tittameg and trout. The otters did considerable mischief to our nets at
+this time; six of these animals were seen in one day.
+
+Many parheliae were observed this month. On the 14th, at forty-five
+minutes after nine A.M., the arched form of the clouds, and the
+appearance of a collection of rays projected from the sun's disk in the
+shape of a fan, strongly resembled the coruscations of the aurora. The
+atmosphere was misty; temperature in the shade +8 degrees 5 minutes; and
+when the thermometer with a blackened bulb was exposed to the sun's
+rays, it rose to +43 degrees. The magnetic needle, at nine A.M., was
+perceived to have made a greater deviation to the westward than usual at
+that hour, and I imagine that the cause of this increase probably arose
+from the atmosphere being then in a state of electricity, similar to
+that in which it is when the aurora appears in hazy weather; on which
+occasions we have observed that its coruscations have the strongest
+effect in causing aberrations of the needle. A violent gale from the
+north-west commenced on the 26th, and lasted, without intermission, for
+thirty-six hours.
+
+[Sidenote: March, 1st.] The early part of this month was marked by a
+succession of gales from the N.W., with a few intervals of moderate
+weather, in which the wind came from the east, and was attended by a
+clearer atmosphere than usually accompanies easterly winds in the colder
+months. We observed, with pleasure, on the 7th, that the sun had
+sufficient power to soften the snow in exposed places, and to form
+icicles from the roofs which had a southern aspect, but the return of
+strong winds from the W.N.W. brought back severe weather. [Sidenote:
+Saturday, 11th.] On the 11th there was a violent gust of wind, which, in
+its passage over the lake, gathered up the snow in a column, similar to
+that of a waterspout. Dr. Richardson made an excursion for the purpose
+of examining the rocks to the north of the establishment. He returned
+after two days, the snow being too deep for him to obtain specimens. The
+description he gave of a view from an eminence nine miles behind the
+fort, induced Lieutenant Back and me to visit the spot, and we were
+amply repaid for the walk. The view embraced the mountains on the
+borders of the Mackenzie to the west, a considerable portion of Bear
+Lake River, with the mountains near its rapids, Clark's Hill to the
+south, and the range of elevated land stretching to the east till they
+were lost in the distance. To the N.E. there appeared several small
+lakes, and the view was terminated by a portion of Bear Lake.
+
+[Sidenote: Tuesday, 21st.] The Chipewyan hunters who had been absent
+since Christmas, returned to us with their families, and brought with
+them a Dog-Rib girl, about twelve years old, who had been deserted by
+her tribe. When they found her, she was in the last stage of weakness,
+from famine, sitting by the expiring embers of a fire, and but for their
+timely appearance, death must soon have ended her sufferings. They fed
+and clothed her, and waited until she gained strength to accompany them.
+The wretches who had abandoned the poor creature, were on their way to a
+fishing station, which they knew to be very productive, and not above a
+day's march distant. She was unable to keep the pace at which they chose
+to proceed, and having no near relation but an aged aunt, who could not
+assist her, they left her at an encampment without any food. The hunters
+met this party of Indians about a month afterwards, when they were
+living in abundance. The girl, by that time, had perfectly recovered her
+strength, and they desired that she should be restored to them, but the
+hunters firmly resisted their importunity, and one of them adopted her
+as his own child. It is singular that she was the only female of the
+tribe that could be called good-looking. Her Indian name was
+Aton-larree, which the interpreter translated, Burnt-weed. Lieutenant
+Back made a sketch of her, in the dress which the hunter's wife gave to
+her on their first meeting. When the Indians came to the fort, I took
+the first opportunity of their being assembled in the hall, to send for
+the hunters and their wives, and to reward them by a substantial present
+of clothing and ammunition. I also gave to them some neat steel
+instruments, consisting of gimblets, and other useful articles, which
+they were desired to preserve, and show to other Indians, as a testimony
+of our approbation of their humanity. A present was also bestowed upon
+the girl, and then the Dog-Ribs were addressed as to their unfeeling
+conduct towards her. They listened quietly, and merely stated her
+weakness as the cause. There is little doubt but that the transactions
+of this day were canvassed afterwards, and it is to be hoped that the
+knowledge of our sentiments gaining circulation, may induce a
+discontinuance of their inhuman practices.
+
+[Sidenote: Wednesday, 22nd.] By the men who had conveyed our last packet
+to Fort Simpson, we received intelligence that some Chipewyans had
+brought information to the Athabasca and Slave Lakes, of their having
+seen many indications of a party of white people on the sea coast
+eastward of the Coppermine River. The report stated, that they had
+found, in the preceding autumn, on the borders of a river near the
+sea-coast, a sawpit, some saws, and axes, and a store of deer's meat.
+There was snow on the ground, and the footsteps of the party appeared
+recent. We concluded from these statements, that Captain Parry had laid
+up his ships in the vicinity of Bathurst's Inlet, and sent
+hunting-parties up the river to augment his stock of provision. I
+therefore despatched two men with letters to Mr. M'Vicar, at Slave Lake,
+containing a series of questions, that the matter might be thoroughly
+investigated, and requested him to transmit the answers to the
+Admiralty. I likewise begged of him immediately to procure a party of
+Indians to go to the spot, and convey a letter from me to Captain Parry,
+in order that they might either be employed as hunters for the ships, or
+carry their letters to the nearest establishment for conveyance to
+England. Had the information reached us sooner, so that a party could
+have gone from Bear Lake to the point at which the ships were, and
+returned before the men were wanted, I should have sent to ascertain the
+fact. The idea of the ships being on the northern coast, the prospect of
+their success, and the expectation of the eastern detatchment meeting
+them in the summer, afforded enlivening topics of conversation for
+several days, and on the day the intelligence came, we celebrated its
+arrival with a bowl of punch. The health of Captain Parry, and his
+party, as well as that of Captain Beechey, was drank with enthusiasm.
+
+[Sidenote: Thursday, 23rd.] We obtained observations for the time, from
+which it appeared that the chronometer, No. 1733, generously lent to the
+Expedition by my friend the late Mr. Moore, had only varied its rate two
+hundredths of a second, since the 3rd of November. I had worn it next my
+skin, suspended round my neck, the whole time; and, consequently, it was
+not exposed to much variation of temperature.
+
+After the middle of this month the N.W. winds gave place to a succession
+of easterly breezes; whenever these prevailed, we observed the
+terrestrial refraction was much increased; double refraction of the land
+was not unfrequent, and twice the mist arising from the open water,
+appeared like a wall of ice. When the moon shone, halos, and
+occasionally paraselenae, were visible; and towards the close of the
+month the coruscations of the aurora were often very brilliant.
+
+During this month I noticed that on several occasions the magnetic
+needle oscillated when I approached it in a dress of waterproof cloth,
+although it remained stationary when others of the party examined it in
+their ordinary garments. The waterproof dress probably acted by exciting
+electricity in the body, although this opinion is rather contradicted by
+the fact of a fur cap, which had been rubbed by the hand until it
+affected the gold leaf electrometer, producing no change in the needle,
+and my approach to the electrometer not causing the gold-leaf to expand.
+
+[Sidenote: April, 6th.] Having failed in an attempt to make charcoal for
+the blacksmith's use at this place, we despatched William Duncan, and
+the blacksmith, to make some at Fort Norman, where birch trees are
+plentiful; and on the 6th of April we were glad to see them return with
+the first load. The carpenters had already prepared the timbers and the
+keel for the new boat, and we were waiting for the coals to get the
+iron-work forward.
+
+[Sidenote: Monday, 10th.] On the 10th Dr. Richardson and Mr. Kendall
+left the fort on snow-shoes, accompanied by an Indian guide, and a man
+driving a dog-sledge with provisions, for the purpose of completing the
+survey of Great Bear Lake, which Dr. Richardson had commenced the
+preceding autumn. The day was remarkably warm; the blackened
+thermometer, exposed to the sun, rose to +90; and we hailed with delight
+a complete thaw. Cheered by the prospect, a spot was cleared of snow,
+the keel of the boat laid down, and that there might be no delay, all
+the sledges we could spare were despatched to fetch the remainder of the
+charcoal from Fort Norman. [Sidenote: Tuesday, 11th.] On the following
+day water was dripping from the roofs, and the flies were active within
+the rooms. The continuance of mild weather for six days caused a rapid
+decay of the snow, but no spots of land became visible. The men returned
+with the charcoal, and from them we learned that the season was more
+backward here than in the vicinity of Fort Norman. In the evening of the
+17th, a telescope was put up in the meridian for finding the rates of
+the chronometers by the transit of Arcturus. [Sidenote: Wednesday,
+19th.] On the 19th, thirty Hare-Indians arrived with sledges, bringing
+their winter's collection of furs for the Hudson Bay Company, and a
+large supply of dried meat for us, which, with the stock already in
+store, put us quite at ease respecting food until the season for our
+departure. The party consisted mostly of young lads, who, very
+good-naturedly, sang and danced for our amusement all the evening. They
+also gave us specimens of the dances in use among the Loucheux, which
+were more graceful than their own. The tune they sung to the
+Medicine-dance of the Loucheux, struck me as being soft and pretty. The
+ludicrous attitudes and grotesque figures of the dancers, as they
+wheeled in a circle, shaking the knives and feathers which they had
+between their fingers were happily sketched by Lieutenant Back.
+
+As the fish had withdrawn from the open water at the commencement of the
+fine weather, the nets were brought nearer to the house; but we did not
+obtain more than thirty fish daily. This diminution, however, gave us no
+concern, as we had plenty of meat. Shortly afterwards the trout began
+again to take bait, and we caught several of large size. Easterly winds
+prevailed this month, and they blew uninterruptedly from the 21st to the
+last day. A storm, on the 28th and 29th, delayed the carpenters working
+at the boat: the patches of ground which had for the last few days been
+visible, were again covered with snow, and the general aspect was bleak
+and wintry.
+
+Dr. Richardson and Mr. Kendall returned on the 1st of May, and we were
+furnished with the following particulars of their journey. Their course,
+on leaving us, was first directed to the fishery in Mac Vicar's Bay,
+which they reached on the fourth day, and from whence, taking with them
+another sledge-load of provisions and an additional attendant, they
+continued their journey to the bottom of Mac Tavish Bay, the most
+easterly part of the Lake. The reduction in their stock of provisions
+now caused them to commence their return, and they reached the fort
+after an absence of three weeks, during which, in very unfavourable
+weather, they travelled about three hundred and eighty miles. Dr.
+Richardson had sailed four hundred and eighty miles through the lake in
+the autumn, and in the two excursions, five hundred miles of its shores
+were delineated, and the positions of many points established by
+astronomical observations. About twenty miles of the north shore of Mac
+Tavish Bay are the only parts of the Bear Lake remaining unsurveyed.
+[Sidenote: May, 1st.] The following brief description of Bear Lake is
+extracted from Dr. Richardson's Journal:--
+
+"Great Bear Lake is formed by the union of five arms or bays, which were
+named after Messrs. Keith, Smith, Dease, Mac Tavish, and Mac Vicar, of
+the Hudson's Bay Company. The principal feeding-stream, named Dease
+River, rises in the Copper Mountains, and falls into the upper end of
+Dease Bay, which is the most northern part of the lake, and Bear Lake
+River, which conveys the waters of the lake to the Mackenzie, issues
+from Keith Bay, the most southerly arm. Mac Tavish Bay is the most
+easterly portion of the lake, and Smith Bay, which lies opposite to it,
+runs to the westward. Mac Vicar Bay has a southerly direction nearly
+parallel to Keith Bay. The length of the lake, from Dease River to Bear
+Lake River, is about one hundred and seventy-five miles; and its
+breadth, from the bottom of Smith Bay to the bottom of Mac Tavish Bay,
+is one hundred and fifty miles. A range of granite hills skirts the
+bottom of Mac Tavish Bay. The Great Bear Mountain, at whose base some
+bituminous shale cliffs are exposed, is about nine hundred feet high,
+and separates Mac Vicar and Keith Bays; a similar mountain lies betwixt
+Keith and Smith Bays. In Dease Bay, limestone and sandstone are the
+prevailing rocks. The waters of the lake are very clear, and of unknown
+depth; forty-fathoms of line were let down near the shore, in Mac Tavish
+Bay, without reaching the bottom. There is a considerable quantity of
+good wood, principally white spruce, in the vicinity of the lake; but
+there is reason to believe that, before many years elapse, it will
+become scarce, for it is very slow of growth, and the natives every year
+set fire to it in various quarters, and thus destroy it for many miles.
+The finest timber was observed on the west side of Great Bear Lake
+Mountain. There are good fisheries in Dease Bay, and in various other
+quarters of the lake; but the fish taken in Mac Vicar Bay are remarkably
+fine and abundant at all seasons of the year. The principal advantage of
+the site chosen for Fort Franklin, is its vicinity to the Bear Lake
+River, and the great quantity of fish that can be procured at certain
+seasons, although they are small and of inferior quality."
+
+On the 5th of this month, the men being called in from the fishery in
+Mac Vicar Bay, the whole party was once more assembled at the house,
+anxiously looking forward to the arrival of spring. We hailed the
+appearance of swans, on the following day, as a sure sign of its
+approach. A goose was seen on the 7th, two ducks on the 8th, and on the
+9th several gulls were observed in the open water near the Bear Lake
+River. The snow, at this time, was rapidly diminishing from the surface
+of the lake, and there were many spots of ground visible. We, therefore,
+commenced the preparations for the summer's voyage. The seamen were
+employed in repairing the coverings and sails of the boats, as well as
+in refitting their rigging, and occupation was allotted to every person
+in the establishment. These operations requiring the constant
+superintendence of the officers, the observations of the magnetic-needle
+were discontinued. After the middle of the month, we were visited by
+occasional showers of rain, which removed the snow, and produced a
+perceptible decay of the ice.
+
+On the 23d, the ice broke away from the shore of the small lake, and
+also of Bear Lake, in front of the house. Swans and geese were now daily
+passing to the northward; many shots were fired at them, both by the
+Indians and our own party, but only a few were killed. The geese were
+principally of the kind known to naturalists by the name of Canada
+geese, and denominated bustards by the voyagers. Numbers of white geese
+also passed; we saw only two flocks of laughing-geese. The first swallow
+came on the 16th, and, on the following day, many others arrived. A
+variety of ducks, gulls, and many of the small aquatic birds, now
+frequented the marshy borders of the little lake, which afforded
+constant amusement to the sportsmen, and full occupation to Dr.
+Richardson in preparing the skins for specimens.
+
+[Sidenote: Wednesday, 24th.] On the 24th, the musquitoes appeared,
+feeble at first, but, after a few days, they became vigorous and
+tormenting. The first flower, a tussilago, was gathered on the 27th.
+Before the close of the month, several others were in bloom, of which
+the most abundant was the white anemone (_anemone tenella_.) The
+leaf-buds had not yet burst, though just ready to open.
+
+The carpenters had now finished the new boat, which received the name of
+the Reliance. It was constructed of fir, with birch timbers, after the
+model of our largest boat, the Lion, but with a more full bow, and a
+finer run abaft. Its length was about twenty-six feet, and breadth five
+feet eight inches. It was fastened in the same manner as the other
+boats, but with iron instead of copper, and to procure sufficient nails
+we were obliged to cut up all the spare axes, trenches[2], and
+ice-chisels. Being without tar, we substituted strips of waterproof
+canvas, soaked in some caoutchouc varnish, which we had brought out, to
+lay between the seams of the planks; and for paint, we made use of
+resin, procured from the pine-trees, boiled and mixed with grease. The
+other boats were afterwards put in complete repair. The Lion required
+the most, in consequence of the accident in Bear Lake River. The defects
+in the other two principally arose from their having been repaired at
+Cumberland House with the elm that grows in its vicinity, and is very
+spongy. We now substituted white spruce fir, which, when grown in these
+high latitudes, is an excellent wood for boat-building. We were
+surprised to find, that, notwithstanding the many heavy blows these
+boats had received in their passage to this place, there was not a
+timber that required to be changed.
+
+In our bustle, we would gladly have dispensed with the presence of the
+Dog-Ribs, who now visited us in great numbers, without bringing any
+supplies. They continued hanging about the fort, and their daily
+drumming and singing over the sick, the squalling of the children, and
+bawling of the men and women, proved no small annoyance. We were
+pleased, however, at perceiving that the ammunition we had given to them
+in return for meat, had enabled them to provide themselves with
+leathern tents. Their only shelter from the wind, snow, or rain, before
+this season, had been a rude barricade of pine branches. Fortunately,
+for our comfort, they were obliged to remove before the expiration of
+the month to a distant fishery to procure provision.
+
+[Sidenote: June, 1st.] The preparations for the voyage along the coast
+being now in a state of forwardness, my attention was directed to the
+providing for the return of Dr. Richardson's party to this establishment
+in the following autumn, and to the securing means of support for all
+the members of the Expedition at this place, in the event of the western
+party being likewise compelled to return to it. Respecting the first
+point, it was arranged that Beaulieu the interpreter, and four
+Canadians, should quit Fort Franklin on the 6th of August, and proceed
+direct to Dease River with a bateau, and wait there until the 20th of
+September, when, if Dr. Richardson did not appear, they were to come
+back to the fort in canoes, and to leave the boat, with provision and
+other necessaries, for the use of the eastern detachment. All these
+points were explained to Beaulieu, and he not only understood every part
+of the arrangement, but seemed very desirous to perform the important
+duty entrusted to him. I next drew up written instructions for the
+guidance of Mr. Dease, during the absence of the Expedition, directing
+his attention first to the equipment and despatch of Beaulieu on the 6th
+of August, and then to the keeping the establishment well stored with
+provision. He was aware of the probability that the western party would
+meet his Majesty's ship Blossom, and go to Canton in her. But as
+unforeseen circumstances might compel us to winter on the coast, I
+considered it necessary to warn him against inferring, from our not
+returning in the following autumn, that we had reached the Blossom. He
+was, therefore, directed to keep Fort Franklin complete, as to
+provision, until the spring of 1828. Dr. Richardson was likewise
+instructed, before he left the fort in 1827, on his return to England,
+to see that Mr. Dease fully understood my motives for giving these
+orders, and that he was provided with the means of purchasing the
+necessary provision from the Indians.
+
+[Sidenote: Wednesday, 7th.] The long reign of the east wind was at
+length terminated by a fresh N.W. breeze, and the ice yet remaining on
+the small lake soon disappeared, under the softening effects of this
+wind. This lake had been frozen eight months, wanting three days. A
+narrow channel being opened along the western border of Bear Lake, on
+the 14th Dr. Richardson took advantage of it, and went in a small canoe
+with two men to examine the mountains on the borders of Bear Lake River,
+and to collect specimens of the plants that were now in flower,
+intending to rejoin the party at Fort Norman. On the same day, in 1821,
+the former Expedition left Fort Enterprize for the sea.
+
+[Sidenote: Thursday, 15th.] The equipments of the boats being now
+complete, they were launched on the small lake, and tried under oars and
+sails. In the afternoon the men were appointed to their respective
+stations, and furnished with the sky-blue waterproof uniforms, and
+feathers, as well as with the warm clothing which had been provided for
+the voyage. I acquainted them fully with the object of the Expedition,
+and pointed out their various duties. They received these communications
+with satisfaction, were delighted with the prospect of the voyage, and
+expressed their readiness to commence it immediately. Fourteen men,
+including Augustus, were appointed to accompany myself and Lieutenant
+Back, in the Lion and Reliance, the two larger boats; and ten, including
+Ooligbuck, to go with Dr. Richardson and Mr. Kendall, in the Dolphin and
+Union. In order to make up the complement of fourteen for the western
+party, I proposed to receive two volunteers from the Canadian voyagers;
+and to the credit of Canadian enterprise, every man came forward. I
+chose Francois Felix and Alexis Vivier, because they were the first who
+offered their services, and this too without any stipulation as to
+increase of wages.
+
+Spare blankets, and every thing that could be useful for the voyage, or
+as presents to the Esquimaux, which our stores could furnish, were
+divided between the eastern and western parties, and put up into bales
+of a size convenient for stowage. This interesting day was closed by the
+consumption of a small quantity of rum, reserved for the occasion,
+followed by a merry dance, in which all joined with great glee, in their
+working dresses. On the following Sunday the officers and men assembled
+at Divine service, dressed in their new uniforms; and in addition to the
+ordinary service of the day, the special protection of Providence was
+implored on the enterprise we were about to commence. The guns were
+cleaned the next day, and stowed in the arm chests, which had been made
+to fit the boats. Tuesday and Wednesday were set apart for the officers
+and men to pack their own things. A strong western breeze occurred on
+the 21st, which removed the ice from the front of the house and opened a
+passage to the Bear Lake River. The men were sent with the boats and
+stores to the river in the evening, and were heartily cheered on
+quitting the beach. The officers remained to pack up the charts,
+drawings, and other documents, which were to be left at the fort; and,
+in the event of none of the officers returning, Mr. Dease was directed
+to forward them to England. We quitted the house at half past ten, on
+Thursday morning, leaving Cote, the fisherman, in charge, until Mr.
+Dease should return from Fort Norman. This worthy old man, sharing the
+enthusiasm that animated the whole party, would not allow us to depart
+without giving his hearty, though solitary cheer, which we returned in
+full chorus.
+
+The position of Fort Franklin was determined to be in latitude 65
+degrees 11 minutes 56 seconds N., longitude 123 degrees 12 minutes 44
+seconds W.; variation of the compass 39 degrees 9 minutes E.; dip of the
+needle 82 degrees 58 minutes 15 seconds.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[2] Used by the Indians to break up the beaver lodges.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+Voyage to the Sea--Part from the Eastern Detachment at Point
+Separation--Reach the Mouth of the Mackenzie--Interview and Contest with
+the Esquimaux--Detained by Ice--Meet friendly Esquimaux--Point Sabine.
+
+
+[Sidenote: Thursday, 22nd.] On our arrival at the Bear Lake River, we
+were mortified to find the ice drifting down in large masses, with such
+rapidity as to render embarkation unsafe. The same cause detained us the
+whole of the following day; and as we had brought no more provision from
+the house than sufficient for an uninterrupted passage to Fort Norman,
+we sent for a supply of fish. This was a very sultry day, the
+thermometer in the shade being 71 degrees at noon, and 74 degrees at
+three P.M.
+
+The descent of the ice having ceased at eight in the morning of the
+24th, we embarked. The heavy stores were put into a bateau, manned by
+Canadians, who were experienced in the passage through rapids, and the
+rest of the boats were ordered to follow in its wake, keeping at such a
+distance from each other as to allow of any evolution that might be
+necessary to avoid the stones. The boats struck several times, but
+received no injury. At the foot of the rapid we met a canoe, manned by
+four of our Canadian voyagers, whom Dr. Richardson had sent with some
+letters that had arrived at Fort Norman from the Athabasca Lake; and as
+the services of the men were wanted, they were embarked in the boats,
+and the canoe was left. Shortly afterwards we overtook Beaulieu, who had
+just killed a young moose deer, which afforded the party two substantial
+meals. At this spot, and generally along the river, we found abundance
+of wild onions.
+
+We entered the Mackenzie River at eight in the evening, and the current
+being too strong for us to advance against the stream with oars, we had
+recourse to the tracking line, and travelled all night. It was
+fatiguing, owing to large portions of the banks having been overthrown
+by the disruption of the ice, and from the ground being so soft that the
+men dragging the rope sank up to the knees at every step; but these
+impediments were less regarded than the ceaseless torment of the
+musquitoes. We halted to sup at the spot where Sir A. Mackenzie saw the
+flame rising from the bank in 1789. The precipice was still on fire,
+the smoke issuing through several apertures. Specimens of the coal were
+procured.
+
+[Sidenote: Sunday, 25th.] We reached Fort Norman at noon on the 25th. On
+the following morning the provision and stores which had been left at
+this place were examined, and found to be in excellent order, except the
+powder in one of the magazines, which had become caked from damp. I had
+ordered a supply of iron-work, knives, and beads, for the sea voyage
+from Fort Simpson; they had arrived some days before us, and with our
+stock thus augmented, we were well furnished with presents for the
+natives. The packages being finished on the 27th, the boats received
+their respective ladings, and we were rejoiced to find that each stowed
+her cargo well, and with her crew embarked floated as buoyantly as our
+most sanguine wishes had anticipated. The heavy stores, however, were
+afterwards removed into a bateau that was to be taken to the mouth of
+the river, to prevent the smaller boats from receiving injury in passing
+over the shoals.
+
+We waited one day to make some pounded meat we had brought into
+pemmican. In the mean time the seamen enlarged the foresail of the
+Reliance.
+
+The letters which I received from the Athabasca department informed me
+that the things I had required from the Company in February last, would
+be duly forwarded; they likewise contained a very different version of
+the story which had led us to suppose that Captain Parry was passing the
+winter on the northern coast. We now learned that the Indians had only
+seen some pieces of wood recently cut, and a deer that had been killed
+by an arrow; these things we concluded were done by the Esquimaux. Three
+men from Slave Lake, whom I had sent for to supply the place of our
+Chipewyan hunters, who were very inactive last winter, joined us at this
+place. They were to accompany Mr. Dease and the Canadians to Fort
+Franklin; and that they, as well as the Indians, might have every
+encouragement to exert themselves in procuring provisions during the
+summer, I directed a supply of the goods they were likely to require, to
+be sent from Fort Simpson, as soon as possible. The longitude of Fort
+Norman was observed to be 124 degrees 44 minutes 47 seconds W., its
+latitude 64 degrees 40 minutes 38 seconds N.; variation 39 degrees 57
+minutes 52 seconds E.
+
+[Sidenote: Wednesday, 28th.] Early this morning the boats were laden and
+decorated with their ensigns and pendants, and after breakfast we
+quitted the fort, amidst the hearty cheers of our friends Mr. Dease, Mr.
+Brisbois, and the Canadians, and I am sure carried their best wishes for
+our success. We halted at noon to obtain the latitude, which placed the
+entrance of Bear Lake River in 64 degrees 55 minutes 37 seconds N.; and
+Dr. Richardson took advantage of this delay to visit the mountain at
+that point, but his stay was short, in consequence of a favourable
+breeze springing up. We perceived that the four boats sailed at nearly
+an equal rate in light breezes, but that in strong winds the two larger
+ones had the advantage. When we landed to sup the musquitoes beset us so
+furiously that we hastily despatched the meal and re-embarked, to drive
+under easy sail before the current. They continued, however, to pursue
+us, and deprived us of all rest. On our arrival, next morning, at the
+place of the first rapids, there was scarcely any appearance of broken
+water, and the sand-bank on which Augustus had been so perilously
+situated in the preceding autumn, was entirely covered. This was, of
+course, to be ascribed to the spring floods; the increase of water to
+produce such a change, must have exceeded six feet. In the afternoon we
+were overtaken by a violent thunder-storm, with heavy rain, which made
+us apprehensive for the pemmican, that spoils on being wet. [Sidenote:
+Friday, 30th.] It unfortunately happened that a convenient place for
+spreading out the bags that were injured could not be found, until we
+reached the Hare-Skin River, below the Rampart Defile, which was at nine
+o'clock. They were spread out the next morning, with the other
+perishable parts of the cargo, and we remained until they were dry. We
+embarked at ten, and, aided by a favourable breeze, made good progress
+until six P.M., when the threatening appearance of the clouds induced us
+to put on shore, and we had but just covered the baggage before heavy
+rain fell, that continued throughout the night. Four Hare Indians came
+to the encampment, to whom dried meat and ammunition were given, as they
+were in want of food from being unable to set their nets in the present
+high state of the water. These were the only natives seen since our
+departure from Fort Norman; they informed us, that, in consequence of
+not being able to procure a sufficiency of fish in the Mackenzie at this
+season, their companions had withdrawn to gain their subsistence from
+the small lakes in the interior.
+
+[Sidenote: July, 1st.] We embarked at half past one on the morning of
+the 1st of July. The sultry weather of the preceding day made us now
+feel more keenly the chill of a strong western breeze, and the mist
+which it brought on, about four hours after our departure. This wind
+being contrary to the current, soon raised such high waves that the
+boats took in a great deal of water; and as we made but little progress,
+and were very cold, we landed to kindle a fire, and prepare breakfast;
+after which we continued the voyage to Fort Good Hope, without any of
+the interruptions from sand-banks that we had experienced in the autumn.
+
+On our arrival we were saluted with a discharge of musketry by a large
+party of Loucheux, who had been some time waiting at the fort, with
+their wives and families, for the purpose of seeing us. After a short
+conference with Mr. Bell, the master of the post, we were informed that
+these Indians had lately met a numerous party of Esquimaux at the Red
+River, by appointment, to purchase their furs; and that in consequence
+of a misunderstanding respecting some bargain, a quarrel had ensued
+between them, which fortunately terminated without bloodshed. We could
+not, however, gain any satisfactory account of the movements of the
+Esquimaux. The only answers to our repeated questions on these points
+were, that the Esquimaux came in sixty canoes to Red River, and that
+they supposed them to have gone down the eastern channel, for the
+purpose of fishing near its mouth. The chief, however, informed us that
+he had mentioned our coming to their lands this spring, and that they
+had received the intelligence without comment; but from his not having
+alluded to this communication until the question was pressed upon him,
+and from the manner of his answering our inquiries, I thought it
+doubtful whether such a communication had really been made.
+
+We had been led to expect much information from the Loucheux respecting
+the channels of the river, and the coast on the east and west side near
+its mouth, but we were greatly disappointed. They were ignorant of the
+channel we ought to follow in order to arrive at the western mouth of
+the river; and the only intelligence they gave us respecting the coast
+on that side was, that the Esquimaux represented it to be almost
+constantly beset by ice. They said also that they were unacquainted with
+the tribes who reside to the westward. Several of the party had been
+down the eastern channel, of which they made a rude sketch; and their
+account of the coast on that side was, that, as far as they were
+acquainted with it, it was free from ice during the summer.
+
+Mr. C. Dease, the former master of Fort Good Hope, had retained two of
+the Loucheux to accompany the Expedition until we should meet the
+Esquimaux: they spoke a few words of the language, which they had
+learned during an occasional residence with the tribe that resides on
+the eastern border of the river. But the knowledge of the recent
+transactions at Red River had convinced us that their presence would be
+more likely to irritate than pacify the Esquimaux. We also discovered
+that their sole motive for accompanying us was the desire of trading
+with that people; and further, that they expected we should take their
+families and baggage in the boats. Their services were therefore
+declined; and a compensation was offered to them for their loss of time
+in waiting for us; but having fixed their minds on the gain to be
+derived from us and from the trade with the Esquimaux, they expressed
+great disappointment, and were very intemperate in their language. As I
+was anxious, for the sake of the trade at the post, to leave them no
+room to complain either of us, or of Mr. Dease who had acted for us, I
+spent several hours in debate with them to very little purpose, and at
+last discovered that the whole scene was got up for the purpose of
+obtaining a few more goods. My compliance with their wish rendered them
+quite contented. I afterwards added a present to the principal chief of
+the party, who still expressed a wish to accompany us, but he frankly
+said that if he went, all his young men must go also. They came in the
+evening in great good humour to exhibit their dances in front of our
+tent, a compliment we could well have dispensed with, as we were busy.
+
+Having ascertained that the Esquimaux were likely to be seen in greater
+numbers than had been at first imagined, I increased the stock of
+presents from the store at this place, and exchanged two of our guns,
+which were defective, that the party might have entire confidence in
+their arms. And to provide against the casualty of either or both
+branches of the Expedition having to return this way, I requested Mr.
+Bell to store up as much meat as he could during the summer. We learned
+from this gentleman that the supply of meat at this post was very
+precarious, and that had we not left the five bags of pemmican in the
+autumn, the residents would have been reduced to great distress for food
+during the winter. These bags were now replaced. The arrangements being
+concluded, we spent the greater part, of the night in writing to
+England. I addressed to the Colonial Secretary an account of our
+proceedings up to this time, and I felt happy to be able to state that
+we were equipped with every requisite for the Expedition.
+
+[Sidenote: Sunday, 2nd.] We quitted Fort Good Hope at five on the 2nd.
+In the passage down the river we were visited by several Loucheux, who,
+the instant we appeared, launched their canoes, and came off to welcome
+us. We landed, at their request, to purchase fish; yet, after the
+bargain had been completed, an old woman stepped forward, and would only
+allow of our receiving two fish: she maintained her point, and carried
+off the rest in spite of all remonstrance. The natives were all clothed
+in new leathern dresses, and looked much neater, and in better health,
+than last autumn. Being anxious to reach the Red River, we continued
+rowing against the wind until after midnight. On reaching that place,
+the ground proved too wet for us to encamp; we, therefore, proceeded a
+short distance lower down, and put up under some sandstone cliffs, where
+there was but just room for the tents. As we were now on the borders of
+the Esquimaux territory, we devoted the following morning to cleaning
+the arms; and a gun, dagger, and ammunition, were issued to each person.
+We had no reason, indeed, to apprehend hostility from the Esquimaux,
+after the messages they had sent to Fort Franklin, but vigilance and
+precaution are never to be omitted in intercourse with strange tribes.
+
+[Sidenote: Monday, 3rd.] Embarking at two in the afternoon of the 3rd,
+we soon entered the expansion of the river whence the different channels
+branch off, and steering along the western shore, we came to the head of
+a branch that flowed towards the Rocky Mountain range. Being anxious not
+to take the eastern detachment out of their course, I immediately
+encamped to make the necessary arrangements for the separation of the
+parties. The warm clothing, shoes, and articles for presents, had been
+previously put up in separate packages, but the provisions remained to
+be divided, which was done in due proportion. Twenty-six bags of
+pemmican, and two of grease, were set apart for the Dolphin and Union,
+with a supply of arrow-root, macaroni, flour, and portable soup, making
+in all eighty days' provision, with an allowance for waste. The Lion and
+Reliance received thirty-two bags of pemmican, and two of grease, with
+sufficient arrow-root, &c., to make their supply proportionate to that
+of the eastern party. Provided no accident occurred, neither party could
+be in absolute want for the whole summer, because at two-thirds
+allowance the pemmican could be made to last one hundred days; and we
+had reason to expect to meet with deer occasionally.
+
+In the evening I delivered my instructions to Dr. Richardson; they were
+in substance as follows:--He was to take under his charge Mr. E.N.
+Kendall, and ten men, and proceed in the Dolphin and Union to survey the
+coast between the Mackenzie and Copper-Mine Rivers. On reaching the
+latter river, he was to travel by land to the north-east arm of Great
+Bear Lake, where Beaulieu was under orders to meet him with a boat for
+the conveyance of his party to Fort Franklin. But if he should be so
+much delayed on the coast as to have no prospect of reaching the
+Copper-Mine River by the close of August, or the Bear Lake Portage by
+the 20th of September, he was not to expose himself or his party to risk
+by persevering beyond the 15th or 20th of August, but was to return to
+Fort Franklin by way of the Mackenzie, or by any other route he might
+discover. The only cause of regret I had respecting the equipment of the
+eastern party was my being unable to provide Dr. Richardson with a
+chronometer, the main-springs of two out of the three chronometers
+furnished to us having been broken. I borrowed, however, from Mr. Dease,
+a watch, made by Barraud, to enable Mr. Kendall to obtain the longitude
+by lunar distances. They were likewise provided with that excellent
+instrument Massey's Log; and knowing Mr. Kendall's intimate acquaintance
+with marine surveying, I had no doubt of his being able to make a
+correct survey of the coast. The spot where the above arrangements were
+made, bears the name of Point Separation, and lies in latitude 67
+degrees 38 minutes N., longitude 133 degrees 53 minutes W.
+
+As the parties entertained for each other sentiments of true friendship
+and regard, it will easily be imagined that the evening preceding our
+separation was spent in the most cordial and cheerful manner. We felt
+that we were only separating to be employed on services of equal
+interest; and we looked forward with delight to our next meeting, when,
+after a successful termination, we might recount the incidents of our
+respective voyages. The best supper our means afforded was provided, and
+a bowl of punch crowned the parting feast.
+
+We were joined by an elderly Loucheux, who gave us a better account of
+the eastern and western channels than we had hitherto obtained. "The
+west branch," he said, "would take us to the sea, and flowed the whole
+way at no great distance from the mountains." "The eastern was a good
+channel, and passed close to the hills on that side." He further
+informed us that the Esquimaux were generally to be found on an island
+in the eastern channel, but were seldom seen in the western branch. He
+was, however, unacquainted with the coast, and we found afterwards that
+he knew little about the movements of the Esquimaux.
+
+[Sidenote: Tuesday, 4th.] By six in the morning of the 4th the boats
+were all laden, and ready for departure. It was impossible not to be
+struck with the difference between our present complete state of
+equipment and that on which we had embarked on our former disastrous
+voyage. Instead of a frail bark canoe, and a scanty supply of food, we
+were now about to commence the sea voyage in excellent boats, stored
+with three months' provision. At Dr. Richardson's desire the western
+party embarked first. He and his companions saluted us with three hearty
+cheers, which were warmly returned; and as we were passing round the
+point that was to hide them from our view, we perceived them also
+embarking. Augustus was rather melancholy, as might have been expected,
+on his parting from Ooligbuck, to proceed he knew not whither; but he
+recovered his wonted flow of spirits by the evening.
+
+The western party were distributed as follows:--
+
+LION. RELIANCE.
+
+John Franklin, _Captain R.N._ George Back, _Lieutenant R.N._ William
+Duncan, _Cockswain_. Robert Spinks, _Cockswain_. Thomas Matthews,
+_Carpenter_. Robert Hallom, _Corpl. of Marines_. Gustavus Aird,
+_Bowman_. Charles Mackenzie, _Bowman_. George Wilson, _Marine_.
+Alexander Currie, _Middle Man_. Archibald Stewart, _Soldier_. Robert
+Spence, _Ditto_. Neil Mac Donald, _Voyager_. Alexis Vivier, _Canadian_.
+Augustus, _Esquimaux_. Francois Felix, _Ditto_.
+
+Our course was directly towards the Rocky Mountain range, till we came
+near the low land that skirts its base; where, following the deepest
+channel, we turned to the northward. I was desirous of coasting the main
+shore, but finding some of the westernmost branches too shallow, we kept
+on the outside of three islands for about twelve miles, when we entered
+the channel that washes the west side of Simpson's Island. It was
+winding, and its breadth seldom exceeded a quarter of a mile. During our
+progress we occasionally caught a glimpse of the Rocky Mountains, which
+was an agreeable relief to the very dull picture that the muddy islands
+in our neighbourhood afforded. We halted to breakfast just before noon,
+and observed the latitude 67 degrees 51 minutes N.
+
+In the afternoon one deer was seen, and many swans and geese; we did not
+fire at them, for fear of alarming any Esquimaux that might be near.
+Encamped at eight P.M., opposite Simpson's Island, in latitude 68
+degrees 13 minutes N., longitude 134 degrees 27 minutes W. The boats
+were secured without discharging the cargoes, and two men were placed on
+guard, to be relieved every two hours.
+
+[Sidenote: Wednesday, 5th.] We set forward at four A.M., with a
+favourable breeze, and made good progress, though the river was very
+winding. At eight we entered a branch that turned to the westward round
+the point of Halkett Island into the channel washing the main shore. We
+soon afterwards arrived at a spot where a large body of Esquimaux had
+been encamped in the spring, and supposing that they might revisit this
+place, a present of an ice-chisel, kettle, and knife, was hung up in a
+conspicuous situation. Soon after we had entered the channel that flows
+by the main shore, we first perceived lop-sticks, or pine trees,
+divested of their lower branches, for the purpose of land-marks, and
+therefore concluded it was much frequented by the Esquimaux. Our course
+was then altered to N.W., and we soon passed the last of the well-wooded
+islands. The spruce fir-trees terminated in latitude 68 degrees 36
+minutes N.; and dwarf willows only grew below this part. A very
+picturesque view was obtained of the Rocky Mountains, and we saw the
+entire outline of their peaked hills, table-land, and quoin shaped
+terminations. Two lofty ranges were fronted by a lower line of
+round-backed hills, in which we perceived the strata to be horizontal,
+and the stone of a yellow colour. A few miles lower down we found hills
+of sand close to the west border of the river. We passed several
+deserted huts, and in one spot saw many chips and pieces of split
+drift-wood, that appeared to have been recently cut. The channel varied
+in breadth from a half to three-quarters of a mile, but, except in the
+stream of the current, the water was so shallow as scarcely to float the
+boats, and its greatest depth did not exceed five feet. We landed at
+eight P.M., on Halkett Island, intending to encamp, but owing to the
+swampiness of the ground the tent could not be pitched. Having made a
+fire and cooked our supper, we retired to sleep under the coverings of
+the boats, which afforded us good shelter from a gale and heavy rain
+that came on before midnight. Latitude 68 degrees 39 minutes N.,
+longitude 135 degrees 35 minutes W.
+
+[Sidenote: Thursday, 6th.] The continuance of stormy weather detained us
+until two P.M. of the 9th, when the rain ceasing, we embarked. After
+passing through the expansion of the river near the west extreme of
+Halkett Island, we turned into the narrower and more winding channel,
+between Colvill Island and the main. A fog coming on at eight P.M. we
+encamped, in latitude 68 degrees 48 minutes N., longitude 136 degrees 4
+minutes W.; temperature of the air 42 degrees, that of the water being
+47 degrees in the middle of the stream. Several of the glaucous gulls
+were seen, and this circumstance, as well as a line of bright cloud to
+the N.W. resembling the ice-blink, convinced us that the sea was not far
+off. A rein-deer appearing near the encampment, two men were sent after
+it, who returned unsuccessful. Augustus obtained a goose for supper.
+Many geese, swans, and ducks, had been seen on the marshy shores of the
+island in the course of the day.
+
+[Sidenote: Friday, 7th.] The night was cold, and at daylight on the 7th
+the thermometer indicated 36 degrees. Embarking at four A.M. we sailed
+down the river for two hours, when our progress was arrested by the
+shallowness of the water. Having endeavoured, without effect, to drag
+the boats over the flat, we remounted the stream to examine an opening
+to the westward, which we had passed. On reaching the opening we found
+the current setting through it into the Mackenzie, by which we knew that
+it could not afford a passage to the sea, but we pulled up it a little
+way, in the hope of obtaining a view over the surrounding low grounds
+from the top of an Esquimaux house which we saw before us. A low fog,
+which had prevailed all the morning, cleared away, and we discovered
+that the stream we had now ascended issued from a chain of lakes lying
+betwixt us and the western hills, which were about six miles distant,
+the whole intervening country between the hills and the Mackenzie being
+flat.
+
+After obtaining an observation for longitude in 136 degrees 19 minutes
+W., and taking the bearing of several remarkable points of the Rocky
+Mountain range, we returned to the Mackenzie, and passing the shallows
+which had before impeded us, by taking one half the boats' cargoes over
+at a time, we came in sight of the mouth of the river. Whilst the crews
+were stowing the boats, I obtained an observation for latitude in 68
+degrees 53 minutes N., and having walked towards the mouth of the river,
+discovered on an island, which formed the east side of the bay into
+which the river opened, a crowd of tents, with many Esquimaux strolling
+amongst them. I instantly hastened to the boats, to make preparations
+for opening a communication with them, agreeably to my instructions. A
+selection of articles for presents and trade being made, the rest of the
+lading was closely covered up; the arms were inspected, and every man
+was directed to keep his gun ready for immediate use. I had previously
+informed Lieutenant Back of my intention of opening the communication
+with the Esquimaux by landing amongst them, accompanied only by
+Augustus; and I now instructed him to keep the boats afloat, and the
+crews with their arms ready to support us in the event of the natives
+proving hostile; but on no account to fire until he was convinced that
+our safety could be secured in no other way. Having received an
+impression from the narratives of different navigators that the
+sacrifices of life which had occurred in their interviews with savages,
+had been generally occasioned by the crews mistaking noise and violent
+gestures for decided hostility, I thought it necessary to explain my
+sentiments on this point to all the men, and peremptorily forbade their
+firing till I set the example, or till they were ordered to do so by
+Lieutenant Back. They were also forbidden to trade with the natives on
+any pretence, and were ordered to leave every thing of that kind to the
+officers.
+
+On quitting the channel of the river we entered into the bay, which was
+about six miles wide, with an unbounded prospect to seaward, and steered
+towards the tents under easy sail, with the ensigns flying. The water
+became shallow as we drew towards the island, and the boats touched the
+ground when about a mile from the beach; we shouted, and made signs to
+the Esquimaux to come off, and then pulled a short way back to await
+their arrival in deeper water. Three canoes instantly put off from the
+shore, and before they could reach us others were launched in such quick
+succession, that the whole space between the island and the boats was
+covered by them. The Esquimaux canoes contain only one person, and are
+named _kaiyacks_; but they have a kind of open boat capable of holding
+six or eight people, which is named _oomiak_. The men alone use the
+kaiyacks, and the oomiaks are allotted to the women and children. We
+endeavoured to count their numbers as they approached, and had proceeded
+as far as seventy-three canoes, and five oomiaks, when the sea became so
+crowded by fresh arrivals, that we could advance no farther in our
+reckoning. The three headmost canoes were paddled by elderly men, who,
+most probably, had been selected to open the communication. They
+advanced towards us with much caution, halting when just within speaking
+distance, until they had been assured of our friendship, and repeatedly
+invited by Augustus to approach and receive the present which I offered
+to them. Augustus next explained to them in detail the purport of our
+visit, and told them that if we succeeded in finding a navigable channel
+for large ships, a trade highly beneficial to them would be opened. They
+were delighted with this intelligence, and repeated it to their
+countrymen, who testified their joy by tossing their hands aloft, and
+raising the most deafening shout of applause I ever heard.
+
+After the first present, I resolved to bestow no more gratuitously, but
+always to exact something, however small, in return; the three elderly
+men readily offered the ornaments they wore in their cheeks, their arms,
+and knives, in exchange for the articles I gave them. Up to this time
+the first three were the only kaiyacks that had ventured near the boats,
+but the natives around us had now increased to two hundred and fifty or
+three hundred persons, and they all became anxious to share in the
+lucrative trade which they saw established, and pressed eagerly upon us,
+offering for sale their bows, arrows, and spears, which they had
+hitherto kept concealed within their canoes. I endeavoured in vain,
+amidst the clamour and bustle of trade, to obtain some information
+respecting the coast, but finding the natives becoming more and more
+importunate and troublesome, I determined to leave them, and, therefore,
+directed the boats' heads to be put to seaward. Notwithstanding the
+forwardness of the Esquimaux, which we attributed solely to the desire
+of a rude people to obtain the novel articles they saw in our
+possession, they had hitherto shown no unfriendly disposition; and when
+we told them of our intention of going to sea, they expressed no desire
+to detain us, but, on the contrary, when the Lion grounded in the act of
+turning, they assisted us in the kindest manner by dragging her round.
+This manoeuvre was not of much advantage to us, for, from the rapid
+ebbing of the tide, both boats lay aground; and the Esquimaux told us,
+through the medium of Augustus, that the whole bay was alike flat, which
+we afterwards found to be correct.
+
+An accident happened at this time, which was productive of unforeseen
+and very annoying consequences. A kaiyack being overset by one of the
+Lion's oars, its owner was plunged into the water with his head in the
+mud, and apparently in danger of being drowned. We instantly extricated
+him from his unpleasant situation, and took him into the boat until the
+water could be thrown out of his kaiyack, and Augustus, seeing him
+shivering with cold, wrapped him up in his own great coat. At first he
+was exceedingly angry, but soon became reconciled to his situation, and
+looking about, discovered that we had many bales, and other articles, in
+the boat, which had been concealed from the people in the kaiyacks, by
+the coverings being carefully spread over all. He soon began to ask for
+every thing he saw, and expressed much displeasure on our refusing to
+comply with his demands; he also, as we afterwards learned, excited the
+cupidity of others by his account of the inexhaustible riches in the
+Lion, and several of the younger men endeavoured to get into both our
+boats, but we resisted all their attempts. Though we had not hitherto
+observed any of them stealing, yet they showed so much desire to obtain
+my flag, that I had it furled and put out of sight, as well as every
+thing else that I thought could prove a temptation to them. They
+continued, however, to press upon us so closely, and made so many
+efforts to get into the boats, that I accepted the offer of two chiefs,
+who said that if they were allowed to come in, they would keep the
+others out. For a time they kept their word, and the crews took
+advantage of the respite thus afforded, to endeavour to force the boats
+towards the river into deeper water. The Reliance floated, but the Lion
+was immoveable, and Lieutenant Back dropping astern again made his boat
+fast to the Lion by a rope. At this time one of the Lion's crew
+perceived that the man whose kaiyack had been upset had a pistol under
+his shirt, and was about to take it from him, but I ordered him to
+desist, as I thought it might have been purchased from the Loucheux. It
+had been, in fact, stolen from Lieutenant Back, and the thief,
+perceiving our attention directed to it, leaped out of the boat, and
+joined his countrymen, carrying with him the great coat which Augustus
+had lent him.
+
+The water had now ebbed so far, that it was not knee deep at the boats,
+and the younger men wading in crowds around us, tried to steal every
+thing within their reach; slyly, however, and with so much dexterity, as
+almost to escape detection. The moment this disposition was manifested,
+I directed the crews not to suffer any one to come alongside, and
+desired Augustus to tell the two chiefs, who still remained seated in
+the Lion, that the noise and confusion occasioned by the crowd around
+the boats greatly impeded our exertions; and that if they would go on
+shore and leave us for the present, we would hereafter return from the
+ship which we expected to meet near this part of the coast, with a more
+abundant supply of goods. They received this communication with much
+apparent satisfaction, and jumping out of the boats repeated the speech
+aloud to their companions. From the general exclamation of "_teyma_,"
+which followed, and from perceiving many of the elderly men retire to a
+distance, I conceived that they acquiesced in the propriety of the
+suggestion, and that they were going away, but I was much deceived. They
+only retired to concert a plan of attack, and returned in a short time
+shouting some words which Augustus could not make out. We soon, however,
+discovered their purport, by two of the three chiefs who were on board
+the Reliance, jumping out, and, with the others who hurried to their
+assistance, dragging her towards the south shore of the river.
+Lieutenant Back desired the chief who remained with him to tell them to
+desist, but he replied by pointing to the beach, and repeating the word
+_teyma_, _teyma_, with a good-natured smile. He said, however, something
+to those who were seated in the canoes that were alongside, on which
+they threw their long knives and arrows into the boat, taking care, in
+so doing, that the handles and feathered ends were turned towards the
+crew, as an indication of pacific intentions.
+
+As soon as I perceived the Reliance moving under the efforts of the
+natives, I directed the Lion's crew to endeavour to follow her, but our
+boat remained fast until the Esquimaux lent their aid and dragged her
+after the Reliance. Two of the most powerful men, jumping on board at
+the same time, seized me by the wrists and forced me to sit between
+them; and as I shook them loose two or three times, a third Esquimaux
+took his station in front to catch my arm whenever I attempted to lift
+my gun, or the broad dagger which hung by my side. The whole way to the
+shore they kept repeating the word "_teyma_," beating gently on my left
+breast with their hands, and pressing mine against their breasts. As we
+neared the beach, two oomiaks, full of women, arrived, and the
+"_teymas_" and vociferation were redoubled. The Reliance was first
+brought to the shore, and the Lion close to her a few seconds
+afterwards. The three men who held me now leaped ashore, and those who
+had remained in their canoes taking them out of the water, carried them
+to a little distance. A numerous party then drawing their knives, and
+stripping themselves to the waist, ran to the Reliance, and having first
+hauled her as far up as they could, began a regular pillage, handing the
+articles to the women, who, ranged in a row behind, quickly conveyed
+them out of sight. Lieutenant Back and his crew strenuously, but
+good-humouredly, resisted the attack, and rescued many things from their
+grasp, but they were overpowered by numbers, and had even some
+difficulty in preserving their arms. One fellow had the audacity to
+snatch Vivier's knife from his breast, and to cut the buttons from his
+coat, whilst three stout Esquimaux surrounded Lieutenant Back with
+uplifted daggers, and were incessant in their demands for whatever
+attracted their attention, especially for the anchor buttons which he
+wore on his waistcoat. In this juncture a young chief coming to his aid,
+drove the assailants away. In their retreat they carried off a writing
+desk and cloak, which the chief rescued, and then seating himself on
+Lieutenant Back's knee, he endeavoured to persuade his countrymen to
+desist by vociferating "_teyma teyma_," and was, indeed, very active in
+saving whatever he could from their depredations. The Lion had hitherto
+been beset by smaller numbers, and her crew, by firmly keeping their
+seats on the cover spread over the cargo, and by beating the natives off
+with the butt-ends of their muskets, had been able to prevent any
+article of importance from being carried away. But as soon as I
+perceived that the work of plunder was going on so actively in the
+Reliance, I went with Augustus to assist in repressing the tumult; and
+our bold and active little interpreter rushed among the crowd on shore,
+and harangued them on their treacherous conduct, until he was actually
+hoarse. In a short time, however, I was summoned back by Duncan, who
+called out to me that the Esquimaux had now commenced in earnest to
+plunder the Lion, and on my return, I found the sides of the boat lined
+with men as thick as they could stand, brandishing their knives in the
+most furious manner, and attempting to seize every thing that was
+moveable; whilst another party was ranged on the outside ready to bear
+away the stolen goods. The Lion's crew still kept their seats, but as it
+was impossible for so small a number to keep off such a formidable and
+determined body, several articles were carried off. Our principal object
+was to prevent the loss of the arms, oars, or masts, or any thing on
+which the continuance of the voyage, or our personal safety, depended.
+Many attempts were made to purloin the box containing the astronomical
+instruments, and Duncan, after thrice rescuing it from their hands, made
+it fast to his leg with a cord, determined that they should drag him
+away also if they took it.
+
+In the whole of this unequal contest, the self-possession of our men was
+not more conspicuous than the coolness with which the Esquimaux received
+the heavy blows dealt to them with the butts of the muskets. But at
+length, irritated at being so often foiled in their attempts, several of
+them jumped on board and forcibly endeavoured to take the daggers and
+shot-belts that were about the men's persons; and I myself was engaged
+with three of them who were trying to disarm me. Lieutenant Back
+perceiving our situation, and fully appreciating my motives in not
+coming to extremities, had the kindness to send to my assistance the
+young chief who had protected him, and who, on his arrival, drove my
+antagonists out of the boat. I then saw that my crew were nearly
+overpowered in the fore part of the boat, and hastening to their aid, I
+fortunately arrived in time to prevent George Wilson from discharging
+the contents of his musket into the body of an Esquimaux. He had
+received a provocation of which I was ignorant until the next day, for
+the fellow had struck at him with a knife, and cut through his coat and
+waistcoat; and it was only after the affray was over that I learned that
+Gustavus Aird, the bowman of the Lion, and three of the Reliance's crew,
+had also narrowly escaped from being wounded, their clothes being cut by
+the blows made at them with knives. No sooner was the bow clear of one
+set of marauders, than another party commenced their operations at the
+stern. My gun was now the object of the struggle, which was beginning to
+assume a more serious complexion, when the whole of the Esquimaux
+suddenly fled, and hid themselves behind the drift timber and canoes on
+the beach. It appears that by the exertions of the crew, the Reliance
+was again afloat, and Lieutenant Back wisely judging that this was the
+proper moment for more active interference, directed his men to level
+their muskets, which had produced that sudden panic. The Lion happily
+floated soon after, and both were retiring from the beach, when the
+Esquimaux having recovered from their consternation, put their kaiyacks
+in the water, and were preparing to follow us; but I desired Augustus to
+say that I would shoot the first man who came within range of our
+muskets, which prevented them.
+
+It was now about eight o'clock in the evening, and we had been engaged
+in this harrassing contest for several hours, yet the only things of
+importance which they had carried off were the mess canteen and kettles,
+a tent, a bale containing blankets and shoes, one of the men's bags, and
+the jib-sails. The other articles they took could well be spared, and
+they would, in fact, have been distributed amongst them, had they
+remained quiet. The place to which the boats were dragged is designated
+by the name of Pillage Point. I cannot sufficiently praise the fortitude
+and obedience of both the boats' crews in abstaining from the use of
+their arms. In the first instance I had been influenced by the desire of
+preventing unnecessary bloodshed, and afterwards, when the critical
+situation of my party might have well warranted me in employing more
+decided means for their defence, I still endeavoured to temporize, being
+convinced that as long as the boats lay aground, and we were beset by
+such numbers, armed with long knives, bows, arrows, and spears, we could
+not use fire-arms to advantage. The howling of the women, and the
+clamour of the men, proved the high excitement to which they had wrought
+themselves; and I am still of opinion that, mingled as we were with
+them, the first blood we had shed would have been instantly revenged by
+the sacrifice of all our lives.
+
+The preceding narrative shows that, bad as the general conduct of the
+Esquimaux was, we had some active friends amongst them; and I was
+particularly desirous of cultivating a good understanding with them, for
+we were as yet ignorant of the state of the ice at sea, and did not know
+how long we should have to remain in their neighbourhood. I was
+determined, however, now to keep them at bay, and to convince them, if
+they made any further attempts to annoy us, that our forbearance had
+proceeded from good-will, and not from the want of power to punish them.
+We had not gone above a quarter of a mile from Pillage Point before the
+boats again took the ground at the distance of one hundred and fifty
+yards from the shore; and having ascertained by the men wading in every
+direction, that there was no deeper water, we made the boats fast side
+by side, and remained in that situation five hours.
+
+Shortly after the boats had been secured, seven or eight of the natives
+walked along the beach, and carrying on a conversation with Augustus,
+invited him to a conference on shore. I was at first very unwilling to
+permit him to go, but the brave little fellow entreated so earnestly
+that I would suffer him to land and reprove the Esquimaux for their
+conduct, that I at length consented, and the more readily, on seeing
+that the young chief who had acted in so friendly a manner was amongst
+the number on the beach. By the time that Augustus reached the shore,
+the number of Esquimaux amounted to forty, and we watched with great
+anxiety the animated conversation he carried on with them. On his return
+he told us that its purport was as follows:--"Your conduct," said he,
+"has been very bad, and unlike that of all other Esquimaux. Some of you
+even stole from me, your countryman, but that I do not mind; I only
+regret that you should have treated in this violent manner the white
+people who came solely to do you kindness. My tribe were in the same
+unhappy state in which you now are, before the white people came to
+Churchill, but at present they are supplied with every thing they need,
+and you see that I am well clothed; I get all that I want, and am very
+comfortable. You cannot expect, after the transactions of this day, that
+these people will ever bring goods to your country again, unless you
+show your contrition by returning the stolen goods. The white people
+love the Esquimaux, and wish to show them the same kindness that they
+bestow upon the Indians: do not deceive yourselves, and suppose that
+they are afraid of you; I tell you they are not, and that it is entirely
+owing to their humanity that many of you were not killed to-day; for
+they have all guns, with which they can destroy you either when near or
+at a distance. I also have a gun, and can assure you that if a white man
+had fallen, I would have been the first to have revenged his death."
+
+The veracity of Augustus was beyond all question with us; such a speech
+delivered in a circle of forty armed men, was a remarkable instance of
+personal courage. We could perceive, by the shouts of applause with
+which they filled the pauses in his harangue, that they assented to his
+arguments, and he told us that they had expressed great sorrow for
+having given us so much cause of offence, and pleaded, in mitigation of
+their conduct, that they had never seen white people before, that every
+thing in our possession was so new to them, and so desirable, that they
+could not resist the temptation of stealing, and begged him to assure us
+that they never would do the like again, for they were anxious to be on
+terms of friendship with us, that they might partake of the benefits
+which his tribe derived from their intercourse with the white people. I
+told Augustus to put their sincerity to the test by desiring them to
+bring back a large kettle and the tent, which they did, together with
+some shoes, having sent for them to the island whither they had been
+conveyed. After this act of restitution, Augustus requested to be
+permitted to join a dance to which they had invited him, and he was, for
+upwards of an hour, engaged in dancing and singing with all his might in
+the midst of a company who were all armed with knives, or bows and
+arrows. He afterwards told us that he was much delighted on finding that
+the words of the song, and the different attitudes of the dances, were
+precisely similar to those used in his own country when a friendly
+meeting took place with strangers. Augustus now learned from them that
+there was a regular ebb and flow of the tide in this bay, and that when
+the sun came round to a particular point there would be water enough to
+float the boats, if we kept along the western shore. This communication
+relieved me from much anxiety, for the water was perfectly fresh, and
+from the flood-tide having passed unperceived whilst we were engaged
+with the Esquimaux, it appeared to us to have been subsiding for the
+preceding twelve hours, which naturally excited doubts of our being able
+to effect a passage to the sea in this direction.
+
+The Esquimaux gradually retired as the night advanced; and when there
+were only a few remaining, two of our men were sent to a fire which they
+had made, to prepare chocolate for the refreshment of the party. Up to
+this period we remained seated in the boats, with our muskets in our
+hands, and keeping a vigilant look out on Augustus, and the natives
+around him. [Sidenote: Saturday, 8th.] As they had foretold, the water
+began to flow about midnight, and by half past one in the morning of the
+8th it was sufficiently deep to allow of our dragging the boats forward
+to a part where they floated. We pulled along the western shore about
+six miles, till the appearance of the sky bespoke the immediate approach
+of a gale; and we had scarcely landed before it came on with violence,
+and attended with so much swell as to compel us to unload the boats and
+drag them up on the beach.
+
+The whole party having been exhausted by the labour and anxiety of the
+preceding twenty-four hours, two men were appointed to keep watch, and
+the rest slept until eleven o'clock in the morning, when we began to
+repair the damage which the sails and rigging had sustained from the
+attempts made by the Esquimaux to cut away the copper thimbles. We were
+thus employed when Lieutenant Back espied, through the haze, the whole
+body of the Esquimaux paddling towards us. Uncertain of the purport of
+their visit, and not choosing to open a conference with so large a body
+in a situation so disadvantageous as our present one, we hastened to
+launch the boats through the surf, and load them with our utmost speed;
+conceiving that when once fairly afloat, we could keep any number at
+bay. We had scarcely pulled into deep water before some of the kaiyacks
+had arrived within speaking distance, and the man in the headmost one,
+holding out a kettle, called aloud that he wished to return it, and that
+the oomiak which was some distance behind, contained the things that had
+been stolen from us, which they were desirous of restoring, and
+receiving in return any present that we might be disposed to give. I did
+not deem it prudent, however, for the sake of the few things in their
+possession which we required, to hazard their whole party collecting
+around us, and, therefore, desired Augustus to tell them to go back; but
+they continued to advance until I fired a ball ahead of the leading
+canoe, which had the desired effect--the whole party veering round,
+except four, who followed us for a little way, and then went back to
+join their companions.
+
+I have been minute in my details of our proceedings with these
+Esquimaux, for the purpose of elucidating the character of the people we
+had to deal with; and I feel that the account would be incomplete
+without the mention, in this place, of some communications made to us in
+the month of August following, which fully explained the motives of
+their conduct. We learned that up to the time that the kaiyack was
+upset, the Esquimaux were actuated by the most friendly feelings towards
+us, but that the fellow whom we had treated so kindly after the
+accident, discovering what the boats contained, proposed to the younger
+men to pillage them. This suggestion was buzzed about, and led to the
+conference which the old men held together when I desired them to go
+away, in which the robbery was decided upon, and a pretty general wish
+was expressed that it should be attended with the total massacre of our
+party. Providentially a few suggested the impropriety of including
+Augustus; and for a reason which could scarcely have been imagined. "If
+we kill him," said they, "no more white people will visit our lands, and
+we shall lose the opportunity of getting a supply of their valuable
+goods; but if we spare him, he can be sent back with a story which we
+shall invent to induce another party of white people to come among us."
+This argument prevailed at the time; but after the interviews with
+Augustus at the dance, they retired to their island, where they were so
+much inflamed by the sight of the valuable articles which they had
+obtained, that they all, without exception, regretted that they had
+allowed us to escape. While in this frame of mind the smoke of our fire
+being discovered, a consultation was immediately held, and a very artful
+plan laid for the destruction of the party, including Augustus, whom
+they conceived to be so firmly attached to us that it was in vain to
+attempt to win him to their cause. They expected to find us on shore;
+but to provide against the boats getting away if we should have
+embarked, they caused some kettles to be fastened conspicuously to the
+leading kaiyack, in order to induce us to stop. The kaiyacks were then
+to be placed in such a position as to hamper the boats, and their owners
+were to keep us in play until the whole party had come up, when the
+attack was to commence. Through the blessing of Providence, their scheme
+was frustrated.
+
+But to resume the narrative of the voyage. The breeze became moderate
+and fair; the sails were set, and we passed along the coast in a W.N.W.
+direction, until eleven in the evening, when we halted on a low island,
+covered with drift wood, to repair the sails, and to put the boats in
+proper order for a sea voyage. [Sidenote: Sunday, 9th.] The continuance
+and increase of the favourable wind urged us to make all possible
+despatch, and at three in the morning of the 9th again embarking, we
+kept in three fathoms water at the distance of two miles from the land.
+After sailing twelve miles, our progress was completely stopped by the
+ice adhering to the shore, and stretching beyond the limits of our view
+to seaward. We could not effect a landing until we had gone back some
+miles, as we had passed a sheet of ice which was fast to the shore; but
+at length a convenient spot being found, the boats were hauled up on the
+beach. We quickly ascended to the top of the bank to look around, and
+from thence had the mortification to perceive that we had just arrived
+in time to witness the first rupture of the ice. The only lane of water
+in the direction of our course was that from which we had been forced to
+retreat: in every other part the sea appeared as firmly frozen as in
+winter; and even close to our encampment the masses of ice were piled up
+to the height of thirty feet. Discouraging as was this prospect, we had
+the consolation to know that our store of provision was sufficiently
+ample to allow of a few days' detention.
+
+The coast in this part consists of black earth, unmixed with stones of
+any kind, and its general elevation is from sixty to eighty feet, though
+in some places it swells into hills of two hundred and fifty feet. A
+level plain, abounding in small lakes, extends from the top of these
+banks to the base of a line of hills which lie in front of the Rocky
+Mountains. The plain was clothed with grass and plants, then in flower,
+specimens of which were collected. We recognised in the nearest range of
+the Rocky Mountains, which I have named after my much-esteemed companion
+Dr. Richardson, the Fitton and the Cupola Mountains, which we had seen
+from Garry Island at the distance of sixty miles. Few patches of snow
+were visible on any part of the range.
+
+Having obtained observations for longitude and variation, we retired to
+bed about eight A.M., but had only just fallen asleep when we were
+roused by the men on guard calling out that a party of Esquimaux were
+close to the tents; and, on going out, we found the whole of our party
+under arms. Three Esquimaux had come upon us unawares, and, in terror at
+seeing so many strangers, they were on the point of discharging their
+arrows, when Augustus's voice arrested them, and by explaining the
+purpose of our arrival, soon calmed their fears. Lieutenant Back and I
+having made each of them a present, and received in return some arrows,
+a very amicable conference followed, which was managed by Augustus with
+equal tact and judgment. It was gratifying to observe our visitors
+jumping for joy as he pointed out the advantages to be derived from an
+intercourse with the white people, to whom they were now introduced for
+the first time. We found that they belonged to a party whose tents were
+pitched about two miles from us; and as they were very desirous that
+their friends might also enjoy the gratification of seeing us, they
+begged that Augustus would return with them to convey the invitation;
+which request was granted at his desire.
+
+Before their departure, marks being set up on the beach one hundred and
+fifty yards in front of the tent, and twice that distance from the
+boats, they were informed that this was the nearest approach which any
+of their party would be permitted to make; and that at this boundary
+only would gifts be made, and barter carried on. Augustus was likewise
+desired to explain to them the destructive power of our guns, and to
+assure them that every person would be shot who should pass the
+prescribed limit. This plan was adopted in all succeeding interviews
+with the Esquimaux. After five hours' absence Augustus returned,
+accompanied by twenty men and two elderly women, who halted at the
+boundary. They had come without bows or arrows, by the desire of
+Augustus, and, following his instruction, each gave Lieutenant Back and
+myself a hearty shake of the hand. We made presents to every one, of
+beads, fish-hooks, awls, and trinkets; and that they might have entire
+confidence in the whole party, our men were furnished with beads to
+present to them. The men were directed to advance singly, and in such a
+manner as to prevent the Esquimaux from counting our number, unless they
+paid the greatest attention, which they were not likely to do while
+their minds were occupied by a succession of novelties.
+
+Our visitors were soon quite at ease, and we were preparing to question
+them respecting the coast, and the time of removal of the ice, when
+Augustus begged that he might put on his gayest dress, and his medals,
+before the conference began. This was the work of a few seconds; but
+when he returned, surprise and delight at his altered appearance and
+numerous ornaments so engaged their minds, that their attention could
+not be drawn to any other subject for the next half hour. "Ah," said an
+old man, taking up his medals, "these must have been made by such people
+as you have been describing, for none that we have seen could do any
+thing like it;" then taking hold of his coat, he asked "what kind of
+animal do these skins which you and the chiefs wear belong to? we have
+none such in our country." The anchor buttons also excited their
+admiration. At length we managed to gain their attention, and were
+informed that, as soon as the wind should blow strong from the land, the
+ice might be expected to remove from the shore, so as to open a passage
+for boats, and that it would remain in the offing until the reappearance
+of the stars. "Further to the westward," they continued, "the ice often
+adheres to the land throughout the summer; and when it does break away,
+it is carried but a short distance to seaward, and is brought back
+whenever a strong wind blows on the coast. If there be any channels in
+these parts, they are unsafe for boats, as the ice is continually
+tossing about." "We wonder, therefore," they said, "that you are not
+provided with sledges and dogs, as our men are, to travel along the
+land, when these interruptions occur." They concluded by warning us not
+to stay to the westward after the stars could be seen, because the
+winds would then blow strong from the sea, and pack the ice on the
+shore. On further inquiry we learned that this party is usually
+employed, during the summer, in catching whales and seals, in the
+vicinity of the Mackenzie, and that they seldom travel to the westward
+beyond a few days' journey. We were, therefore, not much distressed by
+intelligence which we supposed might have originated in exaggerated
+accounts received from others. In the evening Augustus returned with
+them to their tents, and two of the men undertook to fetch a specimen of
+the rock from Mount Fitton, which was distant about twenty miles. The
+following observations were obtained:--Latitude 69 degrees 1 minute 24
+seconds N.; longitude 137 degrees 35 minutes W.; variation 46 degrees 41
+minutes E.; dip 82 degrees 22 minutes.
+
+The party assembled at divine service in the evening. The wind blew in
+violent squalls during the night, which brought such a heavy swell upon
+the ice, that the larger masses near the encampment were broken before
+the morning of the 10th, but there was no change in the main body.
+
+[Sidenote: Monday, 10th.] The Esquimaux revisited us in the morning,
+with their women and children; the party consisted of forty-eight
+persons. They seated themselves as before, in a semicircle, the men
+being in front, and the women behind. Presents were made to those who
+had not before received any; and we afterwards purchased several pairs
+of seal-skin boots, a few pieces of dressed seal-skin, and some
+deer-skin cut and twisted, to be used as cords. Beads, pins, needles,
+and ornamental articles, were most in request by the women, to whom the
+goods principally belonged, but the men were eager to get any thing that
+was made of iron. They were supplied with hatchets, files, ice chisels,
+fire-steels, Indian awls, and fish-hooks. They were very anxious to
+procure knives, but as each was in possession of one, I reserved the few
+which we had for another occasion. The quarter from whence these knives
+were obtained, will appear in a subsequent part of the narrative. It was
+amusing to see the purposes to which they applied the different articles
+given to them; some of the men danced about with a large cod-fish hook
+dangling from the nose, others stuck an awl through the same part, and
+the women immediately decorated their dresses with the ear-rings,
+thimbles, or whatever trinkets they received. There was in the party a
+great proportion of elderly persons, who appeared in excellent health,
+and were very active. The men were stout and robust, and taller than
+Augustus, or than those seen on the east coast by Captain Parry. Their
+cheek-bones were less projecting than the representations given of the
+Esquimaux on the eastern coast, but they had the small eye, and broad
+nose, which ever distinguish that people. Except the young persons, the
+whole party were afflicted with sore eyes, arising from exposure to the
+glare of ice and snow, and two of the old men were nearly blind. They
+wore the hair on the upper lip and chin; the latter, as well as that on
+their head, being permitted to grow long, though in some cases a
+circular spot on the crown of the head was cut bare, like the tonsure of
+the Roman catholic clergy. Every man had pieces of bone or shells thrust
+through the septum of his nose; and holes were pierced on each side of
+the under lip, in which were placed circular pieces of ivory, with a
+large blue bead in the centre, similar to those represented in the
+drawings of the natives on the N.W. coast of America, in Kotzebue's
+Voyage. These ornaments were so much valued, that they declined selling
+them; and when not rich enough to procure beads or ivory, stones and
+pieces of bone were substituted. These perforations are made at the age
+of puberty; and one of the party, who appeared to be about fourteen
+years old, was pointed out, with delight, by his parents, as having to
+undergo the operation in the following year. He was a good-looking boy,
+and we could not fancy his countenance would be much improved by the
+insertion of the bones or stones, which have the effect of depressing
+the under lip, and keeping the mouth open.
+
+Their dress consisted of a jacket of rein-deer skin, with a skirt behind
+and before, and a small hood; breeches of the same material, and boots
+of seal-skin. Their weapons for the chase were bows and arrows, very
+neatly made; the latter being headed with bone or iron; and for fishing,
+spears tipped with bone. They also catch fish with nets and lines. All
+were armed with knives, which they either keep in their hand, or thrust
+up the sleeve of their shirt. They had received from the Loucheux
+Indians some account of the destructive effects of guns. The dress of
+the women differed from that of the men only in their wearing wide
+trowsers, and in the size of their hoods, which do not fit close to the
+head, but are made large, for the purpose of receiving their children.
+These are ornamented with stripes of different coloured skins, and round
+the top is fastened a band of wolf's hair, made to stand erect. Their
+own black hair is very tastefully turned up from behind to the top of
+the head, and tied by strings of white and blue beads, or cords of white
+deer-skin. It is divided in front, so as to form on each side a thick
+tail, to which are appended strings of beads that reach to the waist.
+The women were from four feet and a half to four and three quarters
+high, and generally fat. Some of the younger females, and the children,
+were pretty.
+
+It would appear that the walrus does not visit this part of the coast,
+as none of these people recognised a sketch of one, which Lieutenant
+Back drew; but they at once knew the seal and rein-deer. We learned that
+the polar bear is seldom seen, and only in the autumn; and likewise that
+there are very few of the brown bears, which we frequently saw on the
+coast eastward of the Coppermine River. We had already seen a few white
+whales, and we understood that they would resort to this part of the
+coast in greater numbers with the following moon.
+
+The habits of these people were similar, in every respect, to those of
+the tribes described by Captain Parry, and their dialect differed so
+little from that used by Augustus, that he had no difficulty in
+understanding them. He was, therefore, able to give them full
+particulars relative to the attack made by the other party, and they
+expressed themselves much hurt at their treacherous conduct. "Those are
+bad men," they said, "and never fail either to quarrel with us, or steal
+from us, when we meet. They come, every spring, from the eastern side of
+the Mackenzie, to fish at the place where you saw them, and return as
+soon as the ice opens. They are distinguished from us, who live to the
+westward of the river, by the men being tattoed across the face. Among
+our tribes the women only are tattoed;" having five or six blue lines
+drawn perpendicular from the under lip to the chin. The speaker added,
+"If you are obliged to return by this way, before these people remove,
+we, with a reinforcement of young men, will be in the vicinity, and will
+willingly accompany you to assist in repelling any attack." Augustus
+returned with the Esquimaux to their tents, as there was not the least
+prospect of our getting forward, though the ice was somewhat broken.
+
+[Sidenote: Tuesday, 11th.] A strong breeze from the westward during the
+night, contributed, with the swell, to the further reduction of the ice,
+in front of the encampment; and on the morning of the 11th, the wind
+changed to the eastward, and removed the pieces a little way off shore,
+though they were tossing too violently for the boats to proceed. The
+swell having subsided in the afternoon, we embarked; but at the end of a
+mile and a half were forced to land again, from the ice being fixed to
+the shore; and as the wind had now become strong, and was driving the
+loose pieces on the land, the boats were unloaded and landed on the
+beach. From the summit of an adjoining hill we perceived an unbroken
+field of ice to the west, and, consequently, a barrier to our progress.
+
+We encamped on the spot which our Esquimaux friends had left in the
+morning, to remove in their oomiaks and kaiyacks towards the Mackenzie,
+where they could set their fishing nets, and catch whales and seals. One
+of them showed his honesty, by returning some arrows, and a piece of a
+pemmican bag, that we had left at our last resting-place. The men also
+joined us here with specimens of rock from Mount Fitton.
+
+The Esquimaux winter residences at this spot were constructed of drift
+timber, with the roots of the trees upwards, and contained from one to
+three small apartments, beside a cellar for their stores. There were
+generally two entrances, north and south, so low as to make it necessary
+to crawl through them. The only aperture was a hole at the top for the
+smoke, which, as well as the doorways, could be filled up with a block
+of snow at pleasure. When covered with snow, and with lamps of fire
+burning within, these habitations must be extremely warm, though to our
+ideas rather comfortless. Lofty stages were erected near them for the
+purpose of receiving their canoes, and bulky articles. A north-east gale
+came on in the evening, and rolled such a heavy surf on the beach, that
+twice, during the night, we were obliged to drag the boats and cargoes
+higher up.
+
+[Sidenote: Wednesday, 12th.] About three the next morning a heavy rain
+commenced, and continued, without intermission, through the day; at
+which we were delighted, however comfortless it made our situation,
+because we saw the ice gradually loosening from the land under its
+effects. We found the keeping a tide-pole fixed in the loose gravel
+beach impracticable here, as well as at the last resting-place, on
+account of the swell. It appeared to be high water this morning at half
+past one A.M., and that the rise of tide was about two feet. I need
+hardly observe that we had the sun constantly above the horizon, were it
+not for the purpose of mentioning the amusing mistakes which the men
+made as to the hour. In fact, when not employed, a question as to the
+time of day never failed to puzzle them, except about midnight, when the
+sun was near the northern horizon.
+
+Lieutenant Back missing the protractor which he used for laying down his
+bearings on the map, Augustus set off in the rain early this forenoon to
+recover it from an Esquimaux woman, whom he had seen pick it up. The
+rain ceased in the afternoon, the wind gradually abated, and by eight in
+the evening it was calm. A south wind followed, which opened a passage
+for the boat, but Augustus was not in sight. [Sidenote: Thursday, 13th.]
+At midnight we became greatly alarmed for his safety, having now found
+that he had taken his gun, which we supposed the natives might have
+endeavoured to wrest from him, and we were on the point of despatching a
+party in search of him, when he arrived at four in the morning of the
+13th, much fatigued, accompanied by three of the natives. His journey
+had been lengthened by the Esquimaux having gone farther to the eastward
+than he had expected, but he had recovered the protractor which had been
+kept in their ignorance of its utility to us. His companions brought
+five white fish, and some specimens of crystal, with other stones, from
+the mountains, which we purchased, and further rewarded them for their
+kindness in not allowing Augustus to return alone.
+
+The boats were immediately launched, and having pulled a short distance
+from the land, we set the sails, our course being directed to the outer
+point in view, to avoid the sinuosities of the coast. We passed a wide,
+though not deep bay, whose points were named after my friends Captains
+Sabine and P.P. King; and we were drawing near the next projection, when
+a compact body of ice was discovered, which was joined to the land
+ahead. At the same time a dense fog came on, that confined our view to a
+few yards; it was accompanied by a gale from the land, and heavy rain.
+We had still hopes of getting round the point, and approached the shore
+in that expectation, but found the ice so closely packed that we could
+neither advance nor effect a landing. We, therefore, pulled to seaward,
+and turned the boat's head to the eastward, to trace the outer border of
+the ice. In this situation we were exposed to great danger from the
+sudden change of wind to S.E., which raised a heavy swell, and brought
+down upon us masses of ice of a size that, tossed as they were by the
+waves, would have injured a ship. We could only catch occasional
+glimpses of the land through the fog, and were kept in the most anxious
+suspense, pulling in and out between the floating masses of ice, for
+five hours, before we could get near the shore. We landed a little to
+the west of Point Sabine, and only found sufficient space for the boats
+and tents between the bank and the water. The rain ceased for a short
+time in the evening, and during this interval, we perceived, from the
+top of the bank, that the whole space between us and the distant point,
+as well as the channel by which we had advanced to the westward, were
+now completely blocked; so that we had good reason to congratulate
+ourselves on having reached the shore in safety.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+Babbage River--Meet Natives at Herschel Island--Their Trade with the
+Russians, through the Western Esquimaux--Ascend Mount Conybeare--Boundary
+of the British Dominions on this Coast--Delayed at Icy Reef--Barter
+Island--Detention at Foggy Island--Return Reef--Limit of outward Voyage.
+
+
+[Sidenote: Friday, 14th.] Although it rained heavily during the night,
+and the wind blew strong off the land for some hours, there was no other
+change in the state of the ice on the morning of the 14th, than that the
+smaller pieces were driven a short way from the beach. The day was foggy
+and rainy, but the evening fine. The bank under which we were encamped
+is of the same earthy kind as that described on the 9th, but rather
+higher and steeper. It contains much wood coal, similar to that found in
+the Mackenzie River, and at Garry's Island. The beach and the beds of
+the rivulets that flow through the ravines, consist of coarse gravel.
+Specimens of its stones, of the coal, and of the plants in flower, were
+added to the collection. We saw two marmots, and two rein-deer, which
+were too wary to allow of our getting within shot of them. Between noon
+and ten P.M. the loose ice was driving in front of the encampment from
+the N.W. to S.E., and at the latter hour it stopped. We could not detect
+any difference in the height of the water, and there was a calm the
+whole time. A light breeze from S.E. after midnight, brought the masses
+close to the beach. [Sidenote: Saturday, 15th.] On the morning of the
+15th, having perceived that the ice was loosened from the land near the
+outer point, to which I have given the name of Kay, after some much
+esteemed relatives, we embarked, and in the course of a few hours
+succeeded in reaching it, by passing between the grounded masses of ice.
+On landing at Point Kay, we observed that our progress must again be
+stopped by a compact body of ice that was fast to the shore of a deep
+bay, and extended to our utmost view seaward; and that we could not
+advance farther than the mouth of a river which discharged its waters
+just round the point. The boats were, therefore, pulled to its entrance,
+and we encamped. Former checks had taught us to be patient, and we,
+therefore, commenced such employments as would best serve to beguile the
+time, consoling ourselves with the hope that a strong breeze would soon
+spring up from the land and open a passage. Astronomical observations
+were obtained, the map carried on, and Lieutenant Back sketched the
+beautiful scenery afforded by a view of the Rocky Mountains, while I was
+employed in collecting specimens of the plants in flower. The men amused
+themselves in various ways, and Augustus went to visit an Esquimaux
+family that were on an island contiguous to our encampment.
+
+We now discovered that the Rocky Mountains do not form a continuous
+chain, but that they run in detached ranges at unequal distances from
+the coast. The Richardson chain commencing opposite the mouth of the
+Mackenzie, terminates within view of our present situation. Another
+range, which I have named in honour of Professor Buckland, begins on the
+western side of Phillips Bay, and extending to the boundary of our view,
+is terminated by the Conybeare Mountain.
+
+It gave me great pleasure to affix the name of my friend Mr. Babbage to
+the river we had discovered, and that of Mr. Phillips, Professor of
+Painting at the Royal Academy, to the bay into which its waters are
+emptied. We learned from the Esquimaux that this river, which they call
+Cook-Keaktok, or Rocky River, descends from a very distant part of the
+interior, though they are unacquainted with its course beyond the
+mountains. It appeared to us to flow between the Cupola and Barn
+mountains of the Richardson chain. There are many banks of gravel near
+its mouth, but above these obstructions the channel appeared deep, and
+to be about two miles broad. There were no rocks _in situ_, or large
+stones, near the encampment; the rolled pebbles on the beach were
+sandstone of red and light brown colours, greenstone, and slaty
+limestone. We gathered a fine specimen of tertiary pitch-coal.
+
+Augustus returned in the evening with a young Esquimaux and his wife,
+the only residents at the house he had visited. They had now quite
+recovered the panic into which they had been thrown on our first
+appearance, which was heightened by their being unable to escape from us
+owing to the want of a canoe. We made them happy by purchasing the fish
+they brought, and giving them a few presents; they continued to skip and
+laugh as long as they staid. The man informed us that judging from the
+rapid decay of the ice in the few preceding days, we might soon expect
+it to break from the land, so as to allow of our reaching Herschel
+Island, which was in view; but he represented the coast to the westward
+of the island as being low, and so generally beset with ice, that he was
+of opinion we should have great difficulty in getting along. This
+couple had been left here to collect fish for the use of their
+companions, who were to rejoin them for the purpose of killing whales,
+as soon as the ice should break up; and they told us the black whales
+would soon come after its rupture took place. It would be interesting to
+ascertain where the whales retire in the winter, as they require to
+inhale the air frequently. Those of the white kind make their appearance
+when there are but small spaces of open water; and we afterwards saw two
+black whales in a similar situation. One might almost infer from these
+circumstances that they do not remove very far. Is it probable that they
+go, at the close of the autumn, to a warmer climate? or can the sea be
+less closely covered with ice in the high northern latitudes? The
+situation of our encampment was observed to be, latitude 69 degrees 19
+minutes N.; longitude 138 degrees 10-1/2 minutes W.; variation 46
+degrees 16 minutes E.; and a rise and fall of nine inches in the water.
+The wind blew from the west during the night, and drove much ice near
+the boats; but as the masses took ground a little way from the shore, we
+were spared the trouble of removing the boats higher up the beach.
+
+[Sidenote: Sunday, 16th.] We were favoured in the forenoon of the 16th
+by a strong breeze from the land, which, in the course of a few hours,
+drove away many of these pieces towards Point Kay, and opened a passage
+for the boats. We immediately embarked to sail over to the western side
+of Phillips Bay, concluding, from the motion of the ice, that it must
+now be detached from that shore. On reaching it, we had the pleasure of
+finding an open channel close to the beach, although the entrance was
+barred by a stream of ice lying aground on a reef. The boats being
+forced by poles over this obstruction, we stood under sail along the
+coast to about five miles beyond Point Stokes; but there we were again
+compelled by the closeness of the ice to stop, and from the top of a
+sand-hill we could not discover any water in the direction of our
+course. The tents were therefore pitched, and the boats unloaded, and
+hauled on the beach. Heavy rain came on in the evening, by which we
+indulged the hope that the ice might be loosened. We were encamped on a
+low bank of gravel which runs along the base of a chain of sand-hills
+about one hundred and fifty feet high, and forms the coast line. The
+bank was covered with drift timber, and is the site of a deserted
+Esquimaux village. The snow still remaining in the ravines was tinged
+with light red spots. [Sidenote: Monday, 17th.] The night was calm, and
+the ice remained in the same fixed state until six in the morning of the
+17th, when, perceiving the pieces in the offing to be in motion we
+launched the boats, and by breaking our way at first with hatchets, and
+then forcing with the poles through other streams of ice, we contrived
+to reach some lanes of water, along which we navigated for four hours. A
+strong breeze springing up from seaward, caused the ice to close so fast
+upon the boat, that we were obliged to put again to the shore, and land
+on a low bank, similar to that on which we had rested the night before.
+It was intersected, however, by many pools and channels of water, which
+cut off our communication with the land. As we could not obtain, from
+our present station, any satisfactory view of the state of the ice to
+the westward, I despatched Duncan and Augustus to take a survey of it
+from Point Catton, while Lieutenant Back and I made some astronomical
+observations. They returned after an absence of two hours, and reported
+that there was water near Herschel Island, and a channel in the offing
+that appeared to lead to it. We, therefore, embarked; and by pushing the
+boats between the masses that lay aground, for some distance, we
+succeeded in reaching open water at the entrance of the strait which
+lies between the island and the main, and through which the loose pieces
+of ice were driving fast to the westward. Having now the benefit of a
+strong favourable breeze, we were enabled to keep clear of them, and
+made good progress. Arriving opposite the S.E. end of Herschel Island,
+we perceived a large herd of rein-deer just taking the water, and on
+approaching the shore to get within shot, discovered three Esquimaux in
+pursuit. These men stood gazing at the boats for some minutes, and after
+a short consultation, we observed them to change the heads of their
+arrows, and prepare their bows. They then walked along the south shore,
+parallel to our course, for the purpose, as we soon found, of rejoining
+their wives. We reached the place at which the ladies were before them,
+and though invited to land, we were not able, on account of the surf.
+Augustus was desired to assure them of our friendship, and of our
+intention to stop at the first sheltered spot, to which they and their
+husbands might come to receive a present. More than this our little
+friend could not be prevailed upon to communicate, because they were
+"old wives;" and it was evident that he considered any further
+conversation with women to be beneath his dignity. On passing round the
+point we discovered that the ice was closely packed to leeward, and such
+a heavy swell setting upon it, that it was unsafe to proceed. We,
+therefore, encamped, and Augustus set off immediately to introduce
+himself to the Esquimaux. The tents were scarcely pitched, and the
+sentinels placed, before he returned, accompanied by twelve men and
+women, each bringing a piece of dried meat, or fish, to present to us.
+We learned from them that the boats, when at a distance, had been taken
+for pieces of ice; but when we drew near enough for them to distinguish
+the crews, and they perceived them clothed differently from any men they
+had seen, they became alarmed, and made ready their arrows, as we had
+observed. On receiving some presents, they raised a loud halloo, which
+brought five or six others from an adjoining island, and in the evening
+there was a further addition to the party of some young men, who had
+been hunting, and who afterwards sent their wives to bring us a part of
+the spoils of their chase. They remained near the tents the greater part
+of the night, and testified their delight by dancing and singing. An old
+woman, whose hair was silvered by age, made a prominent figure in these
+exhibitions.
+
+The information we obtained from them confirmed that which we had
+received from the last party, namely, that they procure the iron,
+knives, and beads, through two channels, but principally from a party of
+Esquimaux who reside a great distance to the westward, and to meet whom
+they send their young men every spring with furs, seal-skins, and oil,
+to exchange for those articles; and also from the Indians, who come
+every year from the interior to trade with them by a river that was
+directly opposite our encampment; which I have, therefore, named the
+Mountain Indian River. These Indians leave their families and canoes at
+two days' march from the mouth of the river, and the men come alone,
+bringing no more goods than they intend to barter. They were represented
+to be tall stout men, clothed in deer-skins, and speaking a language
+very dissimilar to their own. They also said that the Esquimaux to the
+westward, speak a dialect so different from theirs, that at the first
+opening of the communication, which was so recent as to be within the
+memory of two of our present companions, they had great difficulty in
+understanding them. Several quarrels took place at their first meetings,
+in consequence of the western party attempting to steal; but latterly
+there has been a good understanding between them, and the exchanges have
+been fairly made.
+
+Our visitors did not know from what people either the Indians or the
+Esquimaux obtained the goods, but they supposed from some "Kabloonacht,"
+(white people,) who reside far to the west. As the articles we saw were
+not of British manufacture, and were very unlike those sold by the
+Hudson's Bay Company to the Indians, it cannot be doubted that they are
+furnished by the Russian Fur Traders, who receive in return for them all
+the furs collected on this northern coast. Part of the Russian iron-work
+is conveyed to the Esquimaux dwelling on the coast east of the
+Mackenzie. The western Esquimaux use tobacco, and some of our visitors
+had smoked it, but thought the flavour very disagreeable. Until I was
+aware of their being acquainted with the use of it, I prohibited my men
+from smoking in their presence, and afterwards from offering their pipes
+to the Esquimaux at any time. At the conclusion of this conference, our
+visitors assured us, that having now become acquainted with white
+people, and being conscious that the trade with them would be
+beneficial, they would gladly encourage a further intercourse, and do
+all in their power to prevent future visitors from having such a
+reception as we had on our arrival in these seas. We learned that this
+island, which has been distinguished by the name of Herschel, is much
+frequented by the natives at this season of the year, as it abounds with
+deer, and its surrounding waters afford plenty of fish. It is composed
+of black earth, rises, in its highest point, to about one hundred feet,
+and at the time of our visit was covered with verdure. The strait
+between it and the main shore, is the only place that we had seen, since
+quitting the Mackenzie, in which a ship could find shelter; but even
+this channel is much interrupted by shoals. Latitude 69 degrees 33-1/2
+minutes N.; longitude 139 degrees 3 minutes W.; were observed at the
+encampment.
+
+[Sidenote: Tuesday, 18th.] On the morning of the 18th the fog was so
+thick that we could not see beyond the beach. It dispersed about noon,
+and we discovered that there was a channel of open water near the main
+shore, though in the centre of the strait the ice was heavy, and driving
+rapidly to the north-west. We embarked at once, in the expectation of
+being able to penetrate between the drift ice and the land, but the
+attempt was frustrated by the shallowness of the water; and the fog
+again spreading as thick as before, we landed on a sand-bank. We were
+soon visited by another party of the Esquimaux, who brought deer's meat
+for sale; and although the whole quantity did not amount to a deer, we
+had to purchase it in small pieces. This practice of dividing the meat
+among the party, we found to prevail throughout the voyage; and they
+avowed as their reason for it, the desire that every one might obtain a
+share of the good things we distributed. One of the men drew on the sand
+a sketch of the coast to the westward, as far as he was acquainted with
+it; from which it appeared that there was a line of reefs in front of
+the coast the whole way; the water being deep on the outside of them,
+but on the inside too shallow even for their oomiaks to float. We
+subsequently found that his knowledge of the coast did not extend beyond
+a few days' march.
+
+The atmosphere becoming more clear about two P.M., we again embarked,
+and endeavoured to get to seaward. The boats, however, soon grounded;
+and finding all our attempts to push through any of the channels between
+the reefs ineffectual, we pulled back close to Herschel Island.
+Following, then, the course of the drift ice, we passed near to its
+south-west point, which was found to be the only deep passage through
+the strait. We afterwards entered into a fine sheet of open water, the
+main body of the ice being about half a mile to seaward, and only a few
+bergs lying aground in the direction of our course. The outer parts of
+the island appeared closely beset with it. At the end of five miles we
+discerned another large party of Esquimaux, encamped on a reef; they
+waved their jackets as signals for us to land, which we declined doing,
+as we perceived the water to be shallow between us and them. They ran
+along the beach as far as the end of the reef, tempting us by holding up
+meat. Only two of the party were provided with canoes, and they followed
+us to a bluff point of the main shore, on which we landed. These proved
+to be persons whom we had seen at Herschel Island, and who had visited
+the Esquimaux in this quarter on purpose to make them acquainted with
+our arrival. We were happy to learn from them that we should not see any
+more of their countrymen for some time, because, while surrounded by
+them, the necessity of closely watching their motions, prevented us from
+paying due attention to other objects. Resuming our voyage, we pulled
+along the outer border of a gravel reef, about two hundred yards broad,
+that runs parallel to, and about half a mile from, the coast, having a
+line of drift ice on the outside of us. The wind being contrary, and the
+evening cold, temperature 40 degrees, we encamped on the reef at eight
+P.M., where we found plenty of drift timber; the water was brackish. The
+distance travelled this day was eight miles and a half. The main shore
+opposite the encampment was low to a great distance from the coast; it
+then appeared to ascend gradually to the base of the Buckland chain of
+mountains.
+
+[Sidenote: Wednesday, 19th.] The following morning being calm, and very
+fine, the boats were launched at three A.M., and we set off in high
+spirits; but after pulling three miles, we perceived the channel of open
+water becoming narrow, and the pieces of ice heavier than any we had
+before seen, some of them being aground in three fathoms water. At six
+A.M., after having gone five miles and a half, we were stopped by the
+ice which adhered to the reef, and was unbroken to seaward. Imagining we
+saw water at some distance beyond this barrier, we were induced to drag
+the boats across the reef, and launch them into the channel on the
+inside, in the hope of reaching it. This proved to be a bay, at the head
+of which we arrived in a short time. It was then discovered that a fog
+hanging over the ice had been mistaken for water. The boats were,
+therefore, reconveyed across the reef, the tents pitched, and we had to
+draw largely on our nearly exhausted stock of patience, as we
+contemplated the dreary view of this compact icy field. A herd of
+rein-deer appeared very opportunely to afford some employment, and most
+of the men were despatched on the chase, but only one was successful.
+The following observations were obtained:--Latitude 69 degrees 36
+minutes N.; longitude 139 degrees 42 minutes W.; variation 46 degrees 13
+minutes E. Being now abreast of Mount Conybeare, Lieutenant Back and I
+were on the point of setting out to visit its summit, when we were
+stopped by a very dense fog that accompanied a fresh breeze from the
+N.W., followed by heavy rain. [Sidenote: Thursday, 20th.] The weather
+continued bad, until ten the following morning; the ice near the beach
+was broken into smaller pieces, but as yet too closely packed for our
+proceeding. The water being brackish in front of the reef, we despatched
+two men to bring some from the pools at a distance inland, which was
+found to have the same taste; from this circumstance, as well as from
+the piles of drift wood, thrown up far from the coast, one may infer
+that the sea occasionally washes over this low shore. The ice broken off
+from large masses, and permitted to drain before it was melted, did not
+furnish us with better water. A couple of pin-tailed ducks were shot,
+the only pair seen; the black kind were more numerous, but were not
+fired at, as they are fishing ducks, and, therefore, not good to eat. We
+also saw a few geese and swans.
+
+[Sidenote: Friday, 21st.] The atmosphere was calm, and perfectly clear,
+on the morning of the 21st; and as there was not any change in the
+position of the ice, I visited Mount Conybeare, accompanied by Duncan
+and Stewart. Though its distance was not more than twelve miles from the
+coast, the journey proved to be very fatiguing, owing to the swampiness
+of the ground between the mountain and the sea. We had also the
+discomfort of being tormented the whole way by myriads of musquitoes.
+The plain was intersected by a winding river, about forty yards broad,
+which we forded, and on its western side found a thicket of willows,
+none of which were above seven inches in circumference, and only five or
+six feet high. At the foot of the mountain were three parallel
+platforms, or terraces, whose heights we estimated at fifty, eighty, and
+one hundred and thirty feet; composed of transition slate, the stone of
+the lowest being of the closest texture. We found the task of climbing
+above the upper terraces difficult, in consequence of the looseness of
+the stones, which did not afford a firm footing, but after an hour's
+labour, we succeeded in reaching the top. The mountain is also composed
+of slate, but so much weathered near the summit, as to appear a mere
+collection of stones. Its height above the sea we estimated at eight
+hundred feet. Two or three hardy plants were in flower, at the highest
+elevation, which we gathered, though they were of the same kind that had
+been collected in the lower lands; and during the whole march we did not
+meet with any plant different from the specimens we had already
+obtained. On arriving at the top of the mountain, we were refreshed by a
+strong south wind, which we fondly hoped might reach to the coast, and
+be of service, by driving the ice from the land. This hope, however,
+lasted only a few minutes; for, on casting our eyes to seaward, there
+appeared no open water into which it could be moved, except near
+Herschel Island. The view into the interior possessed the charm of
+novelty, and attracted particular regard. We commanded a prospect over
+three ranges of mountains, lying parallel to the Buckland chain, but of
+less altitude. The view was bounded by a fourth range of high-peaked
+mountains, for the most part covered with snow. This distant range was
+afterwards distinguished by the name of the British Chain; and the
+mountains at its extremities were named in honour of the then Chancellor
+of the Exchequer, and President of the Board of Trade--the Right
+Honourable Mr. Robinson, now Lord Goderich, and Mr. Huskisson. When seen
+from the coast, the mountains of the Buckland chain appeared to form a
+continuous line, extending from N.W. by N., to S.E. by S.; but from our
+present situation we discovered that they were separated from each other
+by a deep valley, and a rivulet, and that their longest direction was
+N.N.E. and S.S.W. The same order prevailed in the three ranges behind
+the Buckland chain; and the highest of their mountains, like Mount
+Conybeare, were round and naked at the top; the vallies between them
+were grassy. We erected a pile of stones of sufficient height to be seen
+from the sea, and deposited underneath it a note, containing the
+latitude, longitude, and some particulars relative to the Expedition.
+
+[Sidenote: Saturday, 22nd.] The 22nd was a calm sultry day, the
+temperature varying between 58 degrees and 63 degrees, and we were
+tormented by musquitoes. The ice remained very close to the beach.
+[Sidenote: Sunday, 23rd.] Impatient of our long detention, we gladly
+availed ourselves, at three in the morning of the 23rd, of a small
+opening in the ice, to launch the boats, and push them forward as far as
+we could get them. We thus succeeded in reaching a lane of water,
+through which we made tolerable progress, though after two hours and a
+half of exertion, we were gradually hemmed in, and forced again to
+encamp at the mouth of a small stream westward of Sir Pulteney Malcolm
+River. We had, however, the satisfaction of finding, by the
+observations, that we had gained ten miles. Latitude 69 degrees 36
+minutes N.; longitude 140 degrees 12 minutes W.; variation 45 degrees 6
+minutes E. The temperature of the water at the surface a quarter of a
+mile from the shore was 40 degrees, that of the air being 49 degrees.
+The water was two fathoms deep, ten yards from the beach.
+
+The coast here was about fifteen feet high; and from the top of the bank
+a level plain extended to the base of the mountains, which, though very
+swampy, was covered with verdure. At this place we first found boulder
+stones, which were deeply seated in the gravel of the beach. They
+consisted of greenstone, sandstone, and limestone; the first mentioned
+being the largest, and the last the most numerous. Having seen several
+fish leaping in the river, a net was set across its mouth, though
+without success, owing to the meshes being too large. Two men were
+despatched to examine the state of the ice; and on their return from a
+walk of several miles, they reported that, with the exception of a small
+spot close to the beach, it was quite compact. They had observed, about
+two miles from the encampment, stumps of drift wood fixed in the ground
+at certain distances, extending from the coast across the plain towards
+the Rocky Mountains, in the direction of two piles of stones, which were
+erected on the top of the latter. We were at a loss to conjecture what
+motive the Esquimaux could have had for taking so much trouble, unless
+these posts were intended to serve as decoys for the rein-deer. The
+party assembled at divine service in the evening, as had been our
+practice every Sunday.
+
+[Sidenote: Monday, 24th.] On the morning of the 24th we were able to
+make a further advance of two miles and three quarters, by forcing the
+boats between the masses of ice, as far as the debouche of another
+rivulet, in latitude 69 degrees 36-1/2 minutes N., and longitude 140
+degrees 19-1/2 minutes W. Under any other circumstance than that of
+being beset by ice, the beautifully calm and clear weather we then had
+would have been delightful; but as our hope of being released rested
+solely on a strong wind, we never ceased to long for its occurrence. A
+breeze would have been, at any rate, beneficial in driving away the
+musquitoes, which were so numerous as to prevent any enjoyment of the
+open air, and to keep us confined to a tent filled with smoke, the only
+remedy against their annoyance.
+
+[Sidenote: Tuesday, 25th.] We were still detained the two following
+days, and the only things we saw were a grey wolf, some seals, and some
+ducks. More tedious hours than those passed by us in the present
+situation, cannot well be imagined. After the astronomical observations
+had been obtained and worked, the survey brought up, a sketch made of
+the encampment, and specimens of the plants and stones in the vicinity
+collected, there was, literally, nothing to do. The anxiety which was
+inseparable from such an enterprize as ours, at such an advanced period
+of the season, left but little disposition to read, even if there had
+been a greater choice of books in our travelling library, and still less
+composure to invent amusement. Even had the musquitoes been less
+tormenting, the swampiness of the ground, in which we sank ankle deep at
+every step, deprived us of the pleasure of walking. A visit to the Rocky
+Mountains was often talked of, but they were now at a distance of two
+days' journey, and we dared not to be absent from the boats so long,
+lest the ice, in its fickle movements, should open for a short time.
+Notwithstanding the closeness of the ice, we perceived a regular rise
+and fall of the water, though it amounted only to seven inches, except
+on the night of the 24th, when the rise was two feet; but the direction
+of the flood was not yet ascertained. We found a greater proportion of
+birch-wood, mixed with the drift timber to the westward of the Babbage
+than we had done before; between the Mackenzie and that river it had
+been so scarce, that we had to draw upon our store of bark to light the
+fires. Some lunar observations were obtained in the afternoon of the
+25th, and their results assured us that the chronometers were going
+steadily. At midnight we were visited by a strong S.W. breeze,
+accompanied by rain, thunder, and lightning. This weather was succeeded
+by calm, and a fog that continued throughout the next day, and confined
+our view to a few yards. Temperature from 41 degrees to 43 degrees.
+[Sidenote: Wednesday, 26th.] On the atmosphere becoming clear about nine
+in the evening of the 26th, we discovered a lane of water, and
+immediately embarking, we pulled, for an hour, without experiencing much
+interruption from the ice. A fresh breeze then sprung up from the N.W.,
+which brought with it a very dense fog, and likewise caused the ice to
+close so fast upon us, that we were compelled to hasten to the shore. We
+had just landed, when the channel was completely closed. We encamped on
+the western side of a river about two hundred yards broad, which, at the
+request of Lieutenant Back, was named after Mr. Backhouse, one of the
+under Secretaries of State for Foreign Affairs. It appeared that the
+water that flowed from this channel had caused the opening by which we
+had travelled from our last resting-place; for beyond it, the ice was
+closely packed.
+
+[Sidenote: Thursday, 27th.] Some heavy rain fell in the night, and the
+morning of the 27th was foggy; but the sun, about noon, having dispersed
+the fog, we discovered an open channel about half a mile from the shore.
+No time was lost in pushing the boats into it. By following its course
+to the end, and breaking our way through some streams of ice, we were
+brought, at the end of eight miles, to the mouth of a wide river that
+flows from the British range of mountains. This being the most westerly
+river in the British dominions on this coast, and near the line of
+demarcation between Great Britain and Russia, I named it the Clarence,
+in honour of His Royal Highness the Lord High Admiral. Under a pile of
+drift timber which we erected on the most elevated point of the coast
+near its mouth, was deposited a tin box, containing a royal silver
+medal, with an account of the proceedings of the Expedition; and the
+union flag was hoisted under three hearty cheers, the only salute that
+we could afford. This ceremony did not detain us longer than half an
+hour; when we launched into a larger space of open water than we had
+seen since the 9th of the month. This circumstance, together with the
+appearance of several seals, and the water becoming more salt, created a
+hope that we should soon enter upon a brisker navigation. But this too
+sanguine expectation was dispelled in little more than an hour, by a
+close and heavy field of ice, which obliged us to pull to the shore. The
+tent was pitched under a steep bank of mud, in latitude 69 degrees 38
+minutes N.; longitude 140 degrees 46 minutes W. The soundings this day
+varied from two to ten fathoms; and the temperature of the air from 37
+degrees to 45 degrees. [Sidenote: Friday, 28th.] The ice having opened
+near the beach by noon of the 28th, so as to admit the boats, we
+embarked, to try if we could not advance by thrusting the masses aside
+with poles. After spending several hours in this labour, and gaining
+only two miles, further exertion became ineffectual, owing to the ice
+being closely packed, and many of the pieces from fifteen to twenty feet
+high, lying aground. We had however, gained by the removal the comforts
+of dry ground, and good water, which had been wanting at the last
+encampment. Among the drift timber on the beach was a pine tree, seven
+feet and a quarter in girth, by thirty-six long. We had previously seen
+several, little inferior in size. The temperature this day varied from
+39 degrees to 48 degrees. We had observed, for the preceding fortnight,
+that the musquitoes assailed us as soon as the temperature rose to 45
+degrees, and that they retired quickly on its descending below that
+height.
+
+[Sidenote: Saturday, 29th.] The morning of the 29th opened with heavy
+rain and fog; the precursors of a strong gale from E.N.E., which brought
+back the ice we had already passed, and closely packed it along the
+beach, but we could not perceive that the wind had the slightest effect
+on the main body at a distance from the shore. This was a very cold,
+comfortless day, the temperature between 38 degrees and 42 degrees.
+[Sidenote: Sunday, 30th.] On the following morning a brilliant sun
+contributed with the gale to the dispersion of the mist which had, for
+some days past, overhung the Rocky Mountains, and we had the
+gratification of seeing, for the first time, the whole length of the
+British Chain of Mountains, which are more peaked and irregular in their
+outline, and more picturesque than those of the Buckland Range. The
+following observations were obtained here:--Latitude 69 degrees 38
+minutes N.; longitude 140 degrees 51 minutes W.; variation 45 degrees 43
+minutes E.; dip 83 degrees 27 minutes. In exploring the bed of a rivulet
+we found several pieces of quartz, containing pyrites of a very bright
+colour, which so much attracted the attention of the crews, that they
+spent several hours in examining every stone, expecting to have their
+labour rewarded by the discovery of some precious metal.
+
+The gale having abated in the evening, we quickly loaded the boats, and
+pulled them into a lane of water that we had observed about half a mile
+from the shore. This, however, extended only a short way to the west,
+and at the end of a mile and a half inclined towards the beach, the ice
+beyond it being closely packed. Before the boats could be brought to the
+land, they received several heavy blows in passing through narrow
+channels, and over tongues of grounded ice. I walked to the extreme
+point that we had in view from the tent, and was rejoiced by the sight
+of a large space of water in the direction of our course; but up to the
+point the ice was still compact, and heavy. On my way I passed another
+Esquimaux village, where there were marks of recent visitors.
+
+We witnessed the setting of the sun at eleven P.M.; an unwelcome sight,
+which the gloomy weather had, till then, spared us; for it forced upon
+our minds the conviction that the favourable season for our operations
+was fast passing away, though we had, as yet, made so little progress.
+This was not the only uncomfortable circumstance that attended us this
+evening. Our friend Augustus was seized with a shivering fit, in
+consequence of having imprudently rushed, when in full perspiration,
+into a lake of cold water, to drag out a rein-deer which he had killed.
+He was unable to walk on coming out of the water, and the consequence
+would have been more serious had it not been for the kindness of his
+companion, Wilson, who deprived himself of his flannels and waistcoat to
+clothe him. On their arrival at the tent, Augustus was put between
+blankets, and provided with warm chocolate, and the only inconvenience
+that he felt next morning was pain in his limbs.
+
+[Sidenote: Monday, 31st.] We had several showers of rain during the
+night, with a steady S.W. breeze, and in the morning of the 31st were
+delighted by perceiving the ice loosening and driving off the land. We
+were afloat in a few minutes, and enjoyed the novelty of pulling through
+an uninterrupted channel as far as Point Demarcation, which has been so
+named from its being situated in longitude 141 degrees W., the boundary
+between the British and Russian dominions on the northern coast of
+America. This point seems to be much resorted to by the Esquimaux, as we
+found here many winter houses, and four large stages. On the latter were
+deposited several bundles of seal and deer skins, and several pair of
+snow-shoes. The snow-shoes were netted with cords of deer-skin, and were
+shaped like those used by the Indians near the Mackenzie. A favourable
+breeze now sprang up; and having ascertained, by mounting one of the
+Esquimaux stages, that there was still a channel of open water between a
+low island and the main shore, we set sail to follow its course. At the
+end of three miles we found the water gradually to decrease from three
+fathoms to as many feet, and shortly afterwards the boats repeatedly
+took the ground. In this situation we were enveloped by a thick fog,
+which limited our view to a few yards. We, therefore, dragged the boats
+to the land, until we could see our way; this did not happen before ten
+in the evening, when it was discovered from the summit of an eminence,
+about two miles distant, that though the channel was of some extent, it
+was very shallow, and seemed to be barred by ice to the westward. We
+also ascertained that it was bounded to the seaward by a long reef. The
+night proved very stormy, and we were but scantily supplied with drift
+wood.
+
+[Sidenote: August 1st.] Though the morning of the 1st of August
+commenced with a heavy gale from E.N.E., and very foggy weather, we
+proceeded to the reef, after much fatigue in dragging the boats over
+the flats, under the supposition that our best chance of getting forward
+would be by passing on the outside of it. But there finding heavy ice
+lying aground, and so closely packed as to preclude the possibility of
+putting the boats into the water, it was determined to examine the
+channel by walking along the shore of the reef. An outlet to the sea was
+discovered, but the channel was so flat that gulls were, in most parts,
+wading across; and there was, therefore, no other course than to await
+the separation of the ice from the reef. On the dispersion of the fog in
+the afternoon, we perceived that some of the masses of ice were from
+twenty to thirty feet high; and we derived little comfort from
+beholding, from the top of one of them, an unbroken surface of ice to
+seaward.
+
+[Sidenote: Wednesday, 2nd.] The gale blew without the least abatement
+throughout the night, and until noon of the 2nd, when it terminated in a
+violent gust, which overthrew the tents. The field of ice was broken in
+the offing, and the pieces put in motion; and in the evening there
+appeared a large space of open water, but we could not take advantage of
+these favourable circumstances, in consequence of the ice still closely
+besetting the reef. We remarked large heaps of gravel, fifteen feet
+above the surface of the reef, on the largest iceberg, which must have
+been caused by the pressure of the ice; and from the top of this berg we
+had the satisfaction of discovering that a large herd of rein-deer were
+marching in line towards the opposite side of the channel. Our party was
+instantly on the alert, and the best hunters were sent in the Reliance
+in chase of them. The boat grounded about midway across, and the eager
+sportsmen jumped overboard and hastened to the shore; but such was their
+want of skill, that only three fawns were killed, out of a herd of three
+or four hundred. The supply, however, was sufficient for our present
+use, and the circumstances of the chase afforded amusing conversation
+for the evening. The astronomical observations place our encampment in
+latitude 69 degrees 43 minutes N.; longitude 141 degrees 30 minutes W.
+The temperature this day varied from 40 degrees to 42 degrees.
+
+[Sidenote: Thursday, 3rd.] On the morning of the 3rd a strong breeze set
+in from the east, which we were rejoiced to find caused a higher flood
+in the channel than we had yet seen, and the hope of effecting a passage
+by its course was revived; as the ice was still fast to the reef, and
+likely to continue so, it was considered better to occupy ourselves in
+dragging the boats through the mud, than to continue longer in this
+irksome spot, where the wood was already scarce, and the water
+indifferent. The boats, therefore, proceeded with four men in each,
+while the rest of the crew walked along the shore, and rendered
+assistance wherever it was necessary, to drag them over the shallow
+parts. After four hours' labour, we reached the eastern part of the bay,
+which I have had the pleasure of naming after my friend Captain
+Beaufort, R.N., and which was then covered with ice. We had also the
+happiness of finding a channel that led to seaward, which enabled us to
+get on the outside of the reef; but as we pushed as close as we could to
+the border of the packed ice, our situation, for the next four hours,
+was attended with no little anxiety. The appearance of the clouds
+bespoke the return of fog, and we were sailing with a strong breeze
+through narrow channels, between heavy pieces of drift ice, on the
+outside of a chain of reefs that stretched across Beaufort Bay, which we
+knew could not be approached within a mile, owing to the shallowness of
+the water.
+
+Beyond Point Humphrys, the water being deep close to the coast, we
+travelled in more security, though the ice was less open than before. We
+halted to sup on a gravel reef that extends from the main shore to Point
+Griffin, having run twenty-eight miles, the greatest distance we had
+made on one day since our departure from the Mackenzie.
+
+A black whale, and several seals, having been seen just before we
+landed, the water now decidedly salt, and the ice driving with great
+rapidity to the westward, were circumstances that we hailed with
+heartfelt joy; as affording the prospect of getting speedily forward,
+and in the evening we lost sight of Mount Conybeare, which had been
+visible since the 9th of July. There were several huts on the reef, and
+one large tent, capable of holding forty persons, which appeared to have
+been lately occupied, besides eighteen sledges, that we supposed to have
+been left by the men who had gone from Herschel Island, to exchange
+their furs with the western Esquimaux. Among the baggage we found a
+spoon, made out of the musk ox horn, like those used by the Canadian
+voyagers. At six this evening we passed the termination of the British
+Chain of Mountains, and had now arrived opposite the commencement of
+another range, which I named after the late Count Romanzoff, Chancellor
+of the Russian Empire, as a tribute of respect to the memory of that
+distinguished patron and promoter of discovery and science.
+
+Having taken the precaution of supplying ourselves with fresh water, we
+quitted the reef, to proceed on our voyage under sail, but shortly
+afterwards arrived at very heavy ice, apparently packed. We found,
+however, a narrow passage, and by forcing the boats through it, reached
+a more open channel, where the oars could be used. This extended along a
+reef, so that we could pursue our course with safety, being ready to
+land in the event of the ice drifting upon us. [Sidenote: Friday, 4th.]
+The sun set this evening at half past ten P.M.; and the temperature of
+the air during its disappearance was 38 degrees. Between the reefs and
+the low main land the water was entirely free from ice. After passing
+Point Sir Henry Martin, we were tempted, by the appearance of a bay, to
+steer within the reefs, as we could then use the sails, and make a more
+direct course than by winding among the ice. The water proved so shallow
+that the boats took the ground, at the distance of three miles from the
+shore, which caused us to alter our plan, and follow the line of drift
+ice near the border of the pack. The breeze died away; and in proceeding
+under oars beyond Point Manning, we descried a collection of tents
+planted on a low island, with many oomiaks, kaiyacks, and dogs around
+them. The Esquimaux being fast asleep, Augustus was desired to hail
+them, and after two or three loud calls, a female appeared in a state of
+nudity; after a few seconds she called out to her husband, who awoke at
+the first sound of her voice, and shouting out that strangers were close
+at hand, the whole space between the tents and the water was, in a few
+minutes, covered with armed, though naked, people. Their consternation
+on being thus suddenly roused by strangers, of whose existence they had
+never heard, can be better imagined than described. We drew near the
+shore, to let Augustus inform them who we were, and of the purpose of
+our visit, which produced a burst of acclamation, and an immediate
+invitation to land. This we declined doing, having counted fifty-four
+grown persons, and knowing that we had not the means of furnishing such
+a number with the articles they might crave. Besides, it was evident,
+from their hurried manner, that they were in a state of high excitement,
+and might then, perhaps, have been disposed to seize upon everything
+within their grasp. Four of the kaiyacks being launched, after we had
+receded to a proper distance from the island, we allowed them to come
+alongside; and presents were given to the men. We then learned that
+these were the people who had conveyed the furs, &c., from Herschel
+Island, and that the exchange with the Esquimaux had been made at the
+place where they were encamped, only a few days before. They intended to
+commence their return this day to Herschel Island, where the iron and
+beads would be distributed among their relations, according to the
+furs, &c. they had supplied. The Esquimaux saluted us at parting with
+many vociferations of _teyma_, and we continued our journey for five
+miles; at the end of which, the wind setting in strongly against us, we
+landed at the western part of Barter Island, to refresh the crew. We
+then found that a rapid tide was running to the eastward, and at eleven
+the water had risen one foot, from the time of our landing. The tents
+were scarcely pitched before we saw two kaiyacks coming towards us from
+the westward, and the man in the headmost accepted, without hesitation,
+our invitation to land. His companion was asleep, and his canoe was
+driving with the wind and tide; but when awaked by the voice of
+Augustus, he also came. These were young men returning from hunting to
+the tents that we had passed; and being much fatigued, they made but a
+short stay. The only information collected from them was, that the coast
+before us was similar to that along which we had been travelling, and
+that the ice was broken from the shore. The latitude 70 degrees 5
+minutes N.; longitude 143 degrees 55 minutes W.; variation 45 degrees 36
+minutes E.; were observed.
+
+As soon as the latitude had been obtained, we embarked, favoured by wind
+and tide, to cross the bay, which has been named in honour of the
+Marquess Camden. The water was of a seagreen colour, perfectly salt, and
+from three to five fathoms deep; the temperature 35 degrees at the
+surface, that of the air, 43 degrees. The day was very clear, and
+exposed to our view the outline of the Romanzoff chain of Mountains,
+whose lofty peaks were covered with snow. At the end of ten miles we
+observed four tents planted on a reef, and several women standing about
+them, who made many signs for us to land, but the surf was rolling too
+heavily on the beach. As we proceeded, their husbands were perceived on
+the main shore, in pursuit of a large herd of rein-deer, which they
+seemed to be surrounding so as to drive the deer into the water, where
+they would probably spear them to more advantage.
+
+Continuing along the shore beyond the reef at the distance of two miles
+from the land, the boats touched the ground several times, which made us
+conclude we were steering into a bay, though its outline could not be
+seen. The wind changed at the time to the north, blew strong, and raised
+a heavy swell, which induced us to haul out to seaward, and we soon
+afterwards discovered an island, which we just reached under sail. From
+its summit we perceived a chain of low reefs, extending from its
+northern point for several miles to the westward, on which the wind was
+then blowing, and bringing down the drift ice. We were, therefore,
+compelled to halt, and await more moderate weather. This island, like
+the projecting points of the main shore, is a mere deposit of earthly
+mud, covered with verdure, about twenty or twenty-five feet high. There
+was another island adjoining, which seemed to be a collection of boulder
+stones; from whence it was named.
+
+The ice appeared closely packed to the seaward; nearer to the island
+were icebergs aground, and within these, streams of loose pieces driving
+towards the reefs. In the hurry of embarkation from Barter Island, one
+of the crew of the Reliance left his gun and ammunition, which we
+regretted the more, from being apprehensive that an accident might
+happen to the natives. The circumstance was not known before the boats
+were a great distance from the island, or we should have put back to
+have recovered it.
+
+A very thick fog came on in the evening. This weather, however, did not
+prevent our receiving a visit from two of the natives about midnight,
+who told Augustus that, having scented the smoke of a fire from the
+opposite side of the bay, they had come to ascertain who had made it.
+They were armed with bows and arrows, and advanced towards the tent
+without any alarm. We found that they had been hunting, with several
+other men, at the foot of the Romanzoff Mountains, and that they were
+now going to rejoin their friends at Barter Island, with the fruits of a
+successful chase. Their knowledge of the coast terminated at this place,
+which is as far to the westward as any of the party from Herschel Island
+travel.
+
+The western Esquimaux had parted from them seven nights before, but they
+supposed that they had not made much progress, as their oomiaks were
+heavily laden. Those people had informed them that the coast to the
+westward was low, and fronted by reefs, like that we had already passed;
+the water also was very shallow; they therefore recommended that we
+should keep on the outside of every reef. Our visitors had no sooner
+received their presents than they raised a loud cry, which was intended
+to bring their friends. On the dispersion of the fog at the time, we
+discovered an oomiak, filled with people paddling, and some other men
+wading towards us. [Sidenote: Saturday, 5th.] It being calm, and the
+swell having abated, we did not wait for their arrival, but embarked at
+one in the morning of the 5th, and pursued our course to the westward,
+keeping on the outside of the reefs. The water, however, was very
+shallow, even at the distance of two miles, and we were much teased by
+the boats repeatedly touching the ground. This was particularly the
+case when we arrived opposite to the large river, which was named in
+honour of the late Mr. Canning, where we found the water perfectly
+fresh, three miles from the land. The ice being more loose abreast of
+this river, we pulled out to seaward into deep water. The land was then
+hidden from our view by the haze, though not more than four miles
+distant, and our course was directed by the masses of ice lying aground;
+but at the end of three miles, our further progress was stopped at six
+A.M., by the ice being closely packed on the outer border of a reef, in
+latitude 70 degrees 7 minutes N.; longitude 145 degrees 27 minutes W.
+
+We perceived, on landing, by the driving of the loose pieces of ice,
+that the tide was running strongly to the eastward, through the channel
+we had passed along, and that it continued to do so, until ten this
+morning, during which time the water was falling. It changed at ten, and
+the water rose one foot before one P.M. This observation would indicate
+the flood to come from the eastward, though contrary to what was
+remarked at Barter Island the day before; but in a sea so closely beset
+with ice, no accurate observations as to the direction of the tide could
+be obtained.
+
+The Rocky Mountains either terminated abreast of our present situation,
+or receded so far to the southward as to be imperceptible from the coast
+a few miles beyond this reef. The ice being somewhat loosened by the
+flood tide, we embarked at one P.M., to force the boats through the
+narrow channels, and in the course of two hours reached Point Brownlow,
+where we landed, for the purpose of ascertaining whether the ice could
+be avoided by passing into the bay that then opened to our view,
+trending to the south. We perceived that this bay was in every part
+flat, and strewed with stones; and that the only prospect of getting
+forward was by entering the ice again, and pushing to an island about
+two miles further to the west, which we reached after receiving several
+heavy blows in passing through the loose ice at the entrance of the
+strait, between the central reef and the island, where the pieces were
+much tossed by the tide.
+
+The view from the south-east part of the island led us, at first, to
+suppose that we might proceed by keeping close to its south shore; but
+in making the attempt, the boats repeatedly took the ground, and we were
+obliged to seek a passage by the north side of the island. At the end of
+a mile in that direction we were stopped by the ice being unbroken from
+the shore, and closely packed to seaward. Since the day after our
+departure from the Mackenzie, when we first came to the ice, we had not
+witnessed a more unfavourable prospect than that before us. No water was
+to be seen, either from the tents, or from the different points of the
+island which we visited, for the purpose of examining into the state of
+the ice. We were now scantily supplied with fuel; the drift timber being
+covered by the ice high up the bank, except just where the boat had
+landed.
+
+[Sidenote: Sunday, 6th.] In the evening a gale came on from the east,
+and blew throughout the following day: we vainly hoped this would
+produce some favourable change; and the water froze in the kettle on the
+night of the 5th. The position of the encampment was ascertained by
+observation to be, latitude 70 degrees 11 minutes N.; longitude 145
+degrees 50 minutes W.; variation 42 degrees 56 minutes E.; so that
+notwithstanding the obstructions we had met, an advance of two degrees
+of longitude had been made in the two preceding days.
+
+This island received the name of Flaxman, in honour of the late eminent
+sculptor. It is about four miles long and two broad, and rises, at its
+highest elevation, about fifty feet. In one of the ravines, where a
+portion of the bank had been carried away by the disruption of the ice,
+we perceived that the stratum of loose earth was not more than eighteen
+inches thick, the lower bed being frozen mud; yet this small quantity of
+soil, though very swampy, nourished grasses, several of the arctic
+plants, and some few willows, that were about three inches high. Several
+boulder stones were scattered on its beach, and also in the channel that
+separates it from the main shore.
+
+[Sidenote: Monday, 7th.] An easterly wind gave place to a calm on the
+morning of the 7th: and as this change, though it produced no effect in
+loosening the ice to the north, caused more water to flow into the
+channel between the island and the main, we succeeded with little
+difficulty in crossing the flats that had before impeded us. Beyond this
+bar the water gradually deepened to three fathoms; and a favourable
+breeze springing up, we set the sail, and steered for the outer point of
+land in sight. We continued in smooth water until we reached Point
+Thompson, when, having lost the shelter of the ice which was aground on
+a tongue of gravel projecting from Flaxman Island, we became exposed to
+an unpleasant swell.
+
+The Lion was very leaky, in consequence of the blows she had received
+from the ice; but as we could keep her free by baling, we did not lose
+the favourable moment by stopping to repair her. Our course was
+continued past Point Bullen, until we came to an island lying three
+miles from the shore, which proved to be connected with the main land by
+a reef. Dazzled by the glare of the sun in our eyes, the surf, which was
+breaking on this reef, was mistaken for a ripple of the tide; and
+although the sails were lowered, as a measure of precaution, we were so
+near before the mistake was discovered, that the strength of the wind
+drove the Lion aground, by which accident she took in much water. The
+exertions of the crew soon got her afloat, and both boats were pulled to
+windward of the island. The sails were then set, but as the wind had by
+this time increased to a strong gale, they were close reefed. We stood
+along the coast, looking for a favourable landing place, that we might
+obtain shelter from an approaching storm which the appearance of the sky
+indicated, and to repair the damage which the Lion had sustained. At
+length, some posts that had been erected by the Esquimaux on a point,
+denoted an approachable part of the coast, and we effected a landing
+after lightening the boats, by carrying part of the cargo two hundred
+yards through the water. The main shore to the westward of Flaxman
+Island is so low that it is not visible at the distance of three miles,
+with the exception of three small hummocks, which look like islands.
+
+[Sidenote: Tuesday, 8th.] The carpenter had finished the repairs of the
+boat by midnight, and we were prepared to go forward, but were prevented
+from moving by a very thick fog, which continued throughout the night,
+and till eleven on the morning of the 8th. The storm continued violent
+throughout the day, but the fog cleared away for the space of two hours,
+and enabled us to perceive that the ice, which in the preceding evening
+had been at a considerable distance from the land, was now tossing
+about, in large masses, close to the border of the shallow water. We
+were also enabled, during the interval of clear weather, to ascertain,
+by astronomical observations, the latitude 70 degrees 16 minutes 27
+seconds N.; longitude 147 degrees 38 minutes W.; and variation 43
+degrees 15 minutes E.
+
+The hunters were sent out in pursuit of some deer that were seen, and
+Augustus killed one. They ascertained, during the chase, that we were on
+an island, separated from the main shore by a channel, fordable at low
+water. At this encampment we remarked the first instance of regularity
+in the tide. It was low water at half past nine on the evening of the
+7th, and high water at half past two the following morning; the rise
+being sixteen inches. An equally regular tide was observed on the 8th,
+but we could not ascertain the direction of the flood. [Sidenote:
+Wednesday, 9th.] After sunset the squalls became extremely violent; and
+until three in the afternoon of the 9th, the fog was so dense that every
+object more distant than forty yards, was hidden. After that period, a
+partial clearness of the atmosphere discovered to us the waves more high
+than the day before, and beating heavily against the weather beach of
+the island. We rejoiced, however, at seeing a large stream of ice to
+windward, supposing that its presence there would cause the swell to go
+down, and that we should be able to proceed as soon as the wind should
+fall. We employed ourselves in observing the dip with Meyer's and the
+common needles, as well as the magnetic force. The mean dip was 82
+degrees 26 minutes. The temperature of the air this day varied from 38
+degrees to 45 degrees. High water took place at fifteen minutes after
+three P.M., the rise being two feet. The water did not fall so low as
+yesterday, owing to the wind blowing more across the mouth of the bay.
+
+[Sidenote: Thursday, 10th.] On the 10th, the continuance of the gale,
+and of the fog more opaque, if possible, than before, and more wet, were
+not only productive of irksome detention, but they prevented us from
+taking exercise; our walks being confined to a space between the marks
+which the Esquimaux had put up on two projecting points, whither we went
+at every glimpse of clearness, to examine into the state of the waves.
+We witnessed with regret, in these short rambles, the havoc which this
+dreary weather made amongst the flowers. Many that had been blooming on
+our arrival, were now lying prostrate and withered. These symptoms of
+decay could not fail painfully to remind us that the term of our
+operations was fast approaching; and often, at this time, did every one
+express a wish that we had some decked vessel, in which the provision
+could be secured from the injury of salt water, and the crew sheltered
+when they required rest, that we might quit this shallow coast, and
+steer at once towards Icy Cape. We designated this dreary place by the
+name of Foggy Island. As an instance of the illusion occasioned by the
+fog, I may mention that our hunters sallied forth, on more than one
+occasion, to fire at what they supposed to be deer, on the bank about
+one hundred yards from the tents, which, to their surprise, took wing,
+and proved to be cranes and geese.
+
+[Sidenote: Friday, 11th.] The wind changed from east to west in the
+course of the night, and at eight in the morning of the 11th, the fog
+dispersed sufficiently to allow of our seeing a point bearing N.W. by
+W., about three miles and a half distant which we supposed to be an
+island. We, therefore, hastened to embark; but before the boats could be
+dragged so far from the shore that they would float, the fog returned.
+The wind, however, being light, we resolved to proceed, and steer by
+compass, to the land that had been seen. Soon after quitting the beach
+we met with shoals, which forced us to alter the course more to the
+north; and having made the distance at which we estimated the point to
+be, and being ignorant which way the coast trended beyond it, we rested
+for some time upon the oars, in the hope that the fog would clear away,
+even for a short time, to enable us to shape our course anew; but in
+vain; all our movements in the bay being impeded by the flats that
+surrounded us, we were compelled to return to Foggy Island. Scarcely had
+the men made a fire to dry their clothes, which were thoroughly wet from
+wading over the flats, than the fog again dispersing, we pushed off once
+more. On this occasion we arrived abreast of the point whilst the
+weather continued clear, but found a reef, over which the waves washed,
+stretching to the north-west, beyond the extent of our view. Just as we
+began to proceed along the reef, the recurrence of the fog rendered it
+necessary for us to seek for shelter on the shore; and as we were
+heartily tired of our late encampment, we endeavoured to find another,
+but the shoals prevented our reaching any landing-place. We, therefore,
+retraced our course, though with much reluctance, to Foggy Island, which
+the men declared to be an enchanted island. Though our wanderings this
+day did not exceed seven miles, the crews were employed upwards of two
+hours in dragging the boats through the mud, when the temperature of the
+water was at 40 degrees, and that of the air 41 degrees. They endured
+this fatigue with the greatest cheerfulness, though it was evident they
+suffered very much from the cold; and in the evening we witnessed the
+ill effects of this kind of labour by finding their legs much swelled
+and inflamed. The fear of their becoming ill from a frequent repetition
+of such operations made me resolve not to attempt the passage of these
+flats again till the weather should be so clear that we might ascertain
+their extent, and see in what way they might be passed with less risk.
+Fog is, of all others, the most hazardous state of the atmosphere for
+navigation in an icy sea, especially when it is accompanied by strong
+breezes, but particularly so for boats where the shore is
+unapproachable. If caught by a gale, a heavy swell, or drifting ice, the
+result must be their wreck, or the throwing the provisions overboard to
+lighten them, so as to proceed into shoal water. Many large pieces of
+ice were seen on the borders of the shallow water; and from the lowness
+of the temperature, we concluded that the main body was at no great
+distance. We had also passed through a stream of perfectly fresh water,
+which we supposed was poured out from a large river in the intermediate
+vicinity, but the fog prevented our seeing its outlet. [Sidenote:
+Saturday, 12th.] The atmosphere was equally foggy throughout the night,
+and all the 12th, although the wind had changed to the east, and blew a
+strong breeze. Winds from this quarter had been extremely prevalent
+since the preceding April: but on our former visit to the Polar Sea,
+they had been of rare occurrence, and confined to the spring months,
+which we passed at Fort Enterprize. The obstinate continuance of fog
+forms another material difference between this season and the same
+period of 1821. We were only detained three times in navigating along
+the coast that year to the east of the Coppermine River; but on this
+voyage hardly a day passed after our departure from the Mackenzie that
+the atmosphere was not, at some time, so foggy as to hide every object
+more distant than four or five miles. The day that I visited Mount
+Conybeare, and that spent on Flaxman Island, form the only exceptions to
+this remark. A question, therefore, suggests itself:--Whence arises this
+difference? which, I presume, can be best answered by reference to the
+greater accumulation of ice on this coast, and to the low and very
+swampy nature of the land. There is a constant exhalation of moisture
+from the ice and swamps during the summer months, which is, perhaps,
+prevented from being carried off by the vicinity of the Rocky Mountains,
+and, therefore, becomes condensed into a fog. The coast to the eastward
+of the Coppermine River is high and dry, and far less encumbered with
+ice.
+
+Some deer appearing near the encampment, a party was despatched in
+pursuit of them; but having been previously fired at by Augustus, they
+proved too wary. The exertions of the men were, however, rewarded by the
+capture of some geese and ducks. The whole of the vegetation had now
+assumed the autumnal tint.
+
+[Sidenote: Sunday, 13th.] There was not the least abatement in the wind,
+or change in the murky atmosphere, throughout the 13th. The party
+assembled at divine service, and afterwards amused themselves as they
+could in their tents, which were now so saturated with wet as to be very
+comfortless abodes; and in order to keep ourselves tolerably warm we
+were obliged to cover the feet with blankets; our protracted stay
+having caused such a great expenditure of the drift-wood, that we found
+it necessary to be frugal in its use, and only to light the fire when we
+wanted to cook the meals. The nights, too, we regretted to find, were
+lengthening very fast; so that from ten P.M. to two A.M., there was too
+little light for proceeding in any unknown tract.
+
+[Sidenote: Monday, 14th.] The wind this day was moderate, but the fog
+was more dense, and very wet. Tired, however, of the confinement of the
+tent, most of the party wandered out in search of amusement, though we
+could not see one hundred yards; and some partridges, ducks, and geese,
+were shot.
+
+[Sidenote: Tuesday, 15th.] The fog was dispersed at seven in the morning
+of the 15th, by a north-east gale, which created too great a surf on the
+beach for us to launch the boats, and the fog returned in the evening.
+The temperature fell to 35 degrees, and in the course of the night ice
+was formed on the small pools near the encampment. Augustus set off in
+the afternoon to cross over to the main shore for the purpose of
+hunting, and to see whether there were any traces of the western
+Esquimaux, but he found none, and only saw three rein-deer.
+
+[Sidenote: Wednesday, 16th.] The weather again became clear, after the
+sun rose, on the 16th, and we embarked as soon as the flowing of the
+tide enabled us to launch the boats, all in the highest spirits at the
+prospect of escaping from this detestable island. We took advantage of
+the fair wind, set the sails, and steered to the westward parallel to
+the coast. We had never more than from three to six feet water, for the
+first seven miles, until we had passed round the reef that projects from
+the point we had so often attempted to reach, and which was named Point
+Anxiety.
+
+Between Point Anxiety and Point Chandos, which is eight miles further to
+the westward, the land was occasionally seen; but after rounding the
+latter point we lost sight of it, and steered to the westward across the
+mouth of Yarborough Inlet, the soundings varying from five feet to five
+fathoms. The fog returned, and the wind freshening, soon created such a
+swell upon the flats, that it became necessary to haul further from the
+land; but the drift ice beginning to close around us, we could no longer
+proceed with safety, and, therefore, endeavoured to find a
+landing-place. An attempt was made at Point Herald, and another on the
+western point of Prudhoe bay, but both were frustrated by the shoalness
+of the water, and the height of the surf. The increasing violence of the
+gale, however, and density of the fog, rendering it absolutely
+necessary for us to obtain some shelter, we stood out to seaward, with
+the view of making fast to a large piece of ice. In our way we fell
+among gravelly reefs, and arriving at the same time suddenly in smooth
+water, we effected a landing on one of them. A temporary dispersion of
+the fog showed that we were surrounded with banks nearly on a level with
+the water, and protected to seaward by a large body of ice lying
+aground. The patch of gravel on which we were encamped, was about five
+hundred yards in circumference, destitute of water, and with no more
+drift wood than a few willow branches, sufficient to make one fire.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+Commence Return to the Mackenzie--Delayed again at Foggy Island--Ice
+packed on the Reefs near Beaufort Bay, and on the Coast about Clarence
+River--Pass the Channels near Herschel Island in a Gale and Fog--A
+sudden Gale--Escape an Attack which the Mountain Indians meditated--Enter
+the Mackenzie--Peel River--Arrival at Fort Franklin.
+
+
+[Sidenote: Wednesday, 16th.] The period had now arrived when it was
+incumbent on me to consider, whether the prospect of our attaining the
+object of the voyage was sufficiently encouraging to warrant the
+exposure of the party to daily increasing risk, by continuing on. We
+were now only half way from the Mackenzie River to Icy Cape; and the
+chance of reaching the latter, depended on the nature of the coast that
+was yet unexplored, and the portion of the summer which yet remained for
+our operations.
+
+I knew, from the descriptions of Cook and Burney, that the shore about
+Icy Cape resembled that we had already passed, in being flat, and
+difficult of approach; while the general trending of the coast from the
+Mackenzie to the west-north-west, nearly in the direction of Icy Cape,
+combined with the information we had collected from the Esquimaux, led
+me to conclude that no material change would be found in the
+intermediate portion.
+
+The preceding narrative shows the difficulties of navigating such a
+coast, even during the finest part of the summer; if, indeed, any
+portion of a season which had been marked by a constant succession of
+fogs and gales could be called fine. No opportunity of advancing had
+been let slip, after the time of our arrival in the Arctic Sea; and the
+unwearied zeal and exertion of the crews had been required, for an
+entire month, to explore the ten degrees of longitude between Herschel
+Island and our present situation, I had, therefore, no reason to suppose
+that the ten remaining degrees could be navigated in much less time. The
+ice, it is true, was more broken up, and the sea around our present
+encampment was clear; but we had lately seen how readily the drift ice
+was packed upon the shoals by every breeze of wind blowing towards the
+land. The summer, bad as it had been, was now nearly at an end, and on
+this point I had the experience of the former voyage for a guide. At
+Point Turn-again, two degrees to the south of our present situation,
+the comparatively warm summer of 1821 was terminated on the 17th of
+August, by severe storms of wind and snow; and in the space of a
+fortnight afterwards, winter set in with all its severity. Last year,
+too, on the 18th and following days of the same month, we had a heavy
+gale at the mouth of the Mackenzie; and appearances did not indicate
+that the present season would prove more favourable. The mean
+temperature of the atmosphere had decreased rapidly since the sun had
+begun to sink below the horizon, and the thermometer had not lately
+shown a higher temperature than 37 degrees. Ice, of considerable
+thickness, formed in the night, and the number of the flocks of geese
+which were hourly seen pursuing their course to the westward, showed
+that their autumnal flight had commenced.
+
+While a hope remained of reaching Behring Straits, I looked upon the
+hazard to which we had, on several occasions, been exposed, of shipwreck
+on the flats, or on the ice, as inseparable from a voyage of the nature
+of that which we had undertaken; and if such an accident had occurred, I
+should have hoped, with a sufficient portion of the summer before me, to
+conduct my party in safety back to the Mackenzie. But the loss of the
+boats when we should have been far advanced, and at the end of the
+season, would have been fatal. The deer hasten from the coast as soon as
+the snow falls; no Esquimaux had been lately seen, nor any
+winter-houses, to denote that this part of the coast was much
+frequented; and if we did meet them under adverse circumstances, we
+could not, with safety, trust to their assistance for a supply of
+provision; nor do I believe that, if willing, even they would have been
+able to support our party for any length of time.
+
+Till our tedious detention at Foggy Island, we had had no doubt of
+ultimate success; and it was with no ordinary pain that I could now
+bring myself even to think of relinquishing the great object of my
+ambition, and of disappointing the flattering confidence that had been
+reposed in my exertions. But I had higher duties to perform than the
+gratification of my own feelings; and a mature consideration of all the
+above matters forced me to the conclusion, that we had reached that
+point beyond which perseverance would be rashness, and our best efforts
+must be fruitless. In order to put the reader completely in possession
+of the motives which would have influenced me, had I been entirely a
+free agent, I have mentioned them without allusion to the clause in my
+instructions which directed me to commence my return on the 15th or 20th
+of August, "if, in consequence of slow progress, or other unforeseen
+accident, it should remain doubtful whether we should be able to reach
+Kotzebue's Inlet the same season."
+
+In the evening I communicated my determination to the whole party; they
+received it with the good feeling that had marked their conduct
+throughout the voyage, and they assured me of their cheerful
+acquiescence in any order I should give. The readiness with which they
+would have prosecuted the voyage, had it been advisable to do so, was
+the more creditable, because many of them had their legs swelled and
+inflamed from continually wading in ice-cold water while launching the
+boats, not only when we accidentally ran on shore, but every time that
+it was requisite to embark, or to land upon this shallow coast. Nor were
+these symptoms to be overlooked in coming to a determination; for though
+no one who knows the resolute disposition of British sailors can be
+surprised at their more than readiness to proceed, I felt that it was my
+business to judge of their capability of so doing, and not to allow
+myself to be seduced by their ardour, however honourable to them, and
+cheering to me.
+
+Compelled as I was to come to the determination of returning, it is a
+great satisfaction to me to know, as I now do, that the reasons which
+induced me to take this step were well-founded. This will appear by the
+following extract from Captain Beechey's official account of his
+proceedings in advancing eastward from Icy Cape, with which I have been
+favoured.
+
+"Mr. Elson, (the master,) after quitting the ship off Icy Cape, on the
+18th August, had proceeded along the coast without interruption, until
+the 22nd of the month, when he arrived off a very low sandy spit, beyond
+which, to the eastward, the coast formed a bay, with a more easterly
+trending than that on the west side; but it was so low that it could not
+be traced far, and became blended with the ice before it reached the
+horizon. It was found impossible to proceed round the spit, in
+consequence of the ice being grounded upon it, and extending to the
+horizon in every direction, except that by which the boat had advanced,
+and was so compact that no openings were seen in any part of it. This
+point, which is the most northern part of the continent yet known, lies
+in latitude, by meridian altitude of the sun, 71 degrees 23 minutes 39
+seconds N.; and longitude, by several sets of lunar distances, both
+observed on an iceberg, 156 degrees 21 minutes W.; and is situated one
+hundred and twenty miles beyond Icy Cape. Between these two stations,
+and, indeed, to the southward of the latter, the coast is very flat,
+abounding in lakes and rivers, which are too shallow to be entered by
+anything but a baidar. The greater part of the coast is thickly
+inhabited by Esquimaux, who have their winter-habitations close to the
+beach.
+
+"The barge had not been off this point sufficiently long to complete the
+necessary observations, when the same westerly wind, which had induced
+me to proceed round Cape Lisburn, brought the ice down upon the coast,
+and left the boat no retreat. It at the same time occasioned a current
+along shore to the northward, at the rate of three and four miles per
+hour. The body of ice took the ground in six and seven fathoms water,
+but pieces of a lighter draft filled up the space between it and the
+shore, and, hurried along by the impetuosity of the current, drove the
+barge ashore, but fortunately without staving her. By the exertions of
+her officers and crew she was extricated from this perilous situation,
+and attempts were made to track her along the land wherever openings
+occurred, in execution of which the greatest fatigue was endured by all
+her crew. At length all efforts proving ineffectual, and the spaces
+between the ice and the shore becoming frozen over, it was proposed to
+abandon the boat, and the crew to make their way along the coast to
+Kotzebue Sound, before the season should be too far advanced.
+Preparations were accordingly made; and that the boat might not be
+irrevocably lost to the ship, it was determined to get her into one of
+the lakes, and there sink her, that the natives might not break her up,
+and from which she might be extricated the following summer, should the
+ship return. During this period of their difficulties they received much
+assistance from the natives, who, for a little tobacco, put their hands
+to the tow-rope. Their conduct had, in the first instance, been
+suspicious; but in the time of their greatest distress, they were well
+disposed, bringing venison, seal's flesh, oil, &c., and offered up a
+prayer that the wind would blow off the shore, and liberate the boat
+from her critical situation. Before the necessary arrangements were made
+respecting the barge, appearances took a more favourable turn; the ice
+began to move off shore, and after much tracking, &c., the boat was got
+clear, and made the best of her way toward the sound; but off Cape
+Lisburn she met with a gale of wind, which blew in eddies so violently,
+that it is said the spray was carried up to the tops of the mountains;
+and the boat, during this trial, behaved so well, that not a moment's
+anxiety for her safety was entertained. I must not close the account
+without expressing my warm approbation of the conduct of Mr. Elson."
+
+The barge rejoined Captain Beechey on the 10th September, at Chamisso
+Island, the Blossom having gone thither to wood and water, and being
+further forced to quit the coast to the northward, in consequence of
+strong westerly winds.
+
+Could I have known, or by possibility imagined, that a party from the
+Blossom had been at the distance of only one hundred and sixty miles
+from me, no difficulties, dangers, or discouraging circumstances, should
+have prevailed on me to return; but taking into account the uncertainty
+of all voyages in a sea obstructed by ice, I had no right to expect that
+the Blossom had advanced beyond Kotzebue Inlet, or that any party from
+her had doubled Icy Cape. It is useless now to speculate on the probable
+result of a proceeding which did not take place; but I may observe,
+that, had we gone forward as soon as the weather permitted, namely, on
+the 18th, it is scarcely possible that any change of circumstances could
+have enabled us to overtake the Blossom's barge.[3]
+
+[Sidenote: Thursday, 17th.] The wind changed to N.E. after midnight, the
+squalls were more violent, and in the morning of the 17th such a surf
+was beating on the borders of the reef, that the boats could not be
+launched. The fog disappeared before the gale about eleven, and during
+the afternoon we enjoyed the clearest atmosphere that we had witnessed
+since our departure from Mount Conybeare. This was the first opportunity
+there had been, for the seven preceding days, of making astronomical
+observations, and we gladly took advantage of it, to observe the
+latitude, 70 degrees 26 minutes N.; longitude 148 degrees 52 minutes W.;
+and variation 41 degrees 20 minutes E. We had likewise the gratification
+of being able to trace the land round Gwydyr Bay, to its outer point,
+bearing S. 79 W. ten miles, which I have named after my excellent
+companion Lieutenant Back, and of seeing a still more westerly hummock,
+bearing S. 84 W., about fifteen miles, that has been distinguished by
+the name of my friend Captain Beechey; at which point, in latitude 70
+degrees 24 minutes N., longitude 149 degrees 37 minutes W., our
+discoveries terminated. The fog returned at sunset, and as the wind was
+piercingly cold, and we had neither fire nor room for exercise, we crept
+between the blankets, as the only means of keeping ourselves warm.
+
+[Sidenote: Friday, 18th.] The gale having considerably abated, and the
+weather being clear, we quitted Return Reef on the morning of the 18th,
+and began to retrace our way towards the Mackenzie. As the waves were
+still very high to seaward, we attempted to proceed inside of the reefs,
+but as the boats were constantly taking the ground, we availed ourselves
+of the first channel that was sufficiently deep to pull on the outside
+of them. The swell being too great there for the use of the oars, the
+sails were set double reefed, and the boats beat to the eastward against
+the wind, between the drift ice and the shallow water.
+
+A gale rose after noon from N.E. by N., which enabled us to shape a
+course for Foggy Island, where we arrived at three P.M., just at a time
+when the violence of the squalls, and the increased height of the swell,
+would have rendered further proceeding very hazardous. We now enjoyed
+the comforts of a good fire and a warm meal, which we had not had since
+the evening of the 16th. The men were afterwards employed in erecting a
+square pile of drift timber, on the highest part of the island fronting
+the sea, on which a red cornet flag was left flying, and underneath it
+was deposited, in a tin case, a letter for Captain Parry, containing an
+account of our proceedings; also a silver medal and a halfpenny: and in
+order that government might have some chance of hearing of our
+proceedings, should any accident subsequently befal the party, there was
+also deposited an unsealed letter, wrapped in bark, addressed to the
+Russian Fur Traders, in the expectation that the Esquimaux might
+probably convey it to their Establishment. An ice-chisel, a knife, a
+file, and a hatchet, were hung up on the pile, for the Esquimaux. On
+digging to erect these posts, the ground was found frozen at the depth
+of sixteen inches; and the thermometer, during the day, seldom rose
+above 37 degrees. This evening the temperature was 33 degrees.
+[Sidenote: Saturday, 19th.] We were vexatiously detained the 19th, and
+following day, by the continuance of the gale, and a thick fog; during
+which time many large flocks of geese were observed passing away to the
+westward. The tides were now much higher than during our first visit.
+
+[Sidenote: Monday, 21st.] The breeze was moderate on the morning of the
+21st, yet we were prevented from embarking until ten o'clock, by the
+return of the fog. We then hastened to escape from this ill-omened
+island. The boats were pulled to seaward, so as to gain a sufficient
+offing for them to pass on the outside of the shallow water; and by the
+aid of the oars and sails we made good progress, and encamped within
+sight of Flaxman Island. A black whale, a seal of the largest kind, and
+numerous flocks of geese were seen in the course of this day. Several
+stars were visible after ten P.M. [Sidenote: Tuesday, 22nd.] Showers of
+snow fell during the night, but the morning of the 22nd was calm and
+clear. We embarked at daylight, and in the course of three hours arrived
+abreast of the east end of Flaxman Island. The ice had broken from the
+northern shore during our absence, and was now lying about a mile from
+the land, apparently aground on reefs, as we had observed it to be along
+the outer border of the one at the west end of the island. The water was
+much deeper between Flaxman Island and the main than when we passed in
+the early part of August. Eastward of Point Brownlow there was an open
+channel of three or four miles wide. And by keeping close to the borders
+of the drift ice we avoided the shallows at the mouth of the Canning
+River, and arrived at Boulder Island about noon. Here we found an
+Esquimaux grave, containing three bodies, covered with drift timber, and
+by their side there were placed the canoes, arrows, and fishing
+implements of the deceased. Not being able to procure fresh water here,
+we set forward to cross Camden Bay, touched at one of the points to fill
+the water-casks, and reached Barter Island after dark; the crews much
+fatigued, having been pulling for nineteen hours. We regretted to find
+the Esquimaux had visited this spot during our absence, and carried away
+the gun and ammunition which had been left by mistake at the encampment
+on the 4th of August, because we were not only apprehensive that some
+accident might have occurred in the attempt to discharge the gun, but
+were desirous to prevent the introduction of fire-arms among these
+people. [Sidenote: Wednesday, 23rd.] Being now near the point of the
+coast at which we had seen a considerable number of the natives, we
+remained at the encampment until ten o'clock on the morning of the 23d,
+to clean the guns and issue a fresh supply of ammunition to the party.
+The day was calm and cloudless; the whole range of the Romanzoff
+Mountains was in sight, and they appeared to be more covered with snow
+than when we passed to the westward. A few musquitoes made their
+appearance, but they were very feeble. Having landed at Point Manning to
+replenish the water-casks, we afterwards pulled throughout the day close
+to the edge of the ice, which was still heavy, though loose, and
+encamped near Point Griffin. Some large-sized medusae, and several of the
+gelatinous substances known to seamen by the name of blubber, were found
+on the beach, which accounted for the number of black ducks that had
+been seen in the course of the day, as they feed on those substances.
+The temperature varied this day from 35 degrees to 46 degrees; and the
+thermometer rose to 64 degrees at two P.M., when exposed to the sun's
+rays.
+
+[Sidenote: Thursday, 24th.] The morning of the 24th was calm; we set
+forward at daylight, and having proceeded a few miles between heavy
+floating ice, about half a mile from the shore we met with a large sheet
+of bay ice of last night's formation, of sufficient thickness to impede
+though not to stop the boats. Having arrived abreast of Point Humphrys,
+we steered out to seaward, for the purpose of avoiding the shallows that
+extend across Beaufort Bay, intending to direct our course in a line for
+Mount Conybeare, which was in sight. We were then exposed to a long
+rolling swell, and we soon afterwards perceived that it had driven the
+ice upon the reefs at the eastern extremity of the bay, which would have
+precluded our retreat to the shore in the event of the wind rising. It
+therefore became necessary to penetrate into the pack, and keep by the
+side of the reefs; but in doing so, the boats were exposed to no little
+danger of being broken in passing through the narrow channels between
+the masses of ice which were tossing with the swell, and from which
+large pieces frequently fell. At six P.M. we passed our former
+encampment on Icy Reef, and afterwards proceeded through an open space
+to Demarcation Point, where we encamped, and hauled up the boats to
+prevent them from being injured by the surf. We found here two families
+of Esquimaux, which belonged to the party that had been to Barter
+Island, waiting the return of a man from hunting, in order to follow
+their companions to the eastward. They showed much joy at seeing us
+again, and remained the greater part of the night talking with Augustus.
+The most active young man of the party, not thinking himself
+sufficiently smart for the occasion, retired to the oomiak to change his
+dress and mouth ornaments, capering about on his return, evidently proud
+of his gayer appearance.
+
+[Sidenote: Friday, 25th.] The morning was foggy, but there being little
+wind, we launched the boats, and pulled for an hour close to the shore,
+when we came to a body of ice so closely packed as scarcely to afford a
+passage, and it was with difficulty that we arrived at Clarence River.
+There we perceived four tents; near which we had been warned by our
+visitors last night not to land, as the party had recently lost their
+parents, and it was feared that, in the state of mind in which they then
+were, they might be disposed to do us some injury. We pulled near enough
+to inquire about the gun, and learned that the person who had it was
+farther to the eastward. The difficulties of forcing a passage were not
+diminished beyond this place, and we were further impeded in our
+advance by new ice formed between the larger masses, which required
+additional labour to break through. The fog cleared away at ten; we
+halted to breakfast at Backhouse River, and remained whilst Augustus
+went in pursuit of two rein-deer, one of which he killed.
+
+Renewing our course, we passed on the outside of the ice until we were
+nearly abreast of Mount Conybeare, when the wind came strong from the
+eastward, and obliged us to have recourse again to its shelter. This
+barrier, however, terminated at the end of five miles, and being then
+exposed to the wind and swell, against which the men were unable to
+pull, we encamped.
+
+The experience we had now gained of the ice being packed upon this shore
+by a wind from the sea, assured us of the correctness of the report
+which the Esquimaux had given, and likewise afforded a reason for their
+expression of surprise at our being unprovided with sledges, as it was
+evident, unless a strong wind blew from the land, that the new ice would
+soon unite the pack with the shore, and preclude the possibility of
+making the passage in boats, unless by going outside of the ice, which
+would be extremely hazardous, from the want of shelter in the event of a
+gale springing up. The pieces of ice were generally from ten to fifteen
+feet in height, many of them were from twenty to thirty feet: their
+length was from twenty to one hundred yards. We saw several white whales
+in the open water, and a flock of white geese at the encampment, which
+were the first noticed on this coast. The rising of the wind from E.N.E.
+this afternoon was accompanied by an increase of temperature from 43
+degrees to 53 degrees, and we felt a comfortable sensation of warmth, to
+which we had been strangers for the preceding month.
+
+[Sidenote: Saturday, 26th.] We took advantage of a favourable breeze to
+embark before daylight on the morning of the 26th; at sunrise it
+increased to a gale, and raised a heavy sea. In two hours we ran to the
+commencement of the intricate channels leading to Herschel Island, where
+the Esquimaux seen at Barter Island were encamped on a reef, and
+apparently gazing in astonishment at the speed of our boats. They made
+many signs for us to land, which we were desirous of doing had it been
+practicable for the surf. That the boats might be perfectly manageable,
+we took two reefs in the sails, and shaped the course for Herschel
+Island; but scarcely were the sails reset before a fog came on that
+hid every mark that could guide us; a heavy swell was rolling at the
+time, and to arrive at the island we had to pass through a channel only
+about two hundred yards broad. To find this, surrounded as it was by
+shoals, in the midst of a dense fog, was a task of considerable anxiety
+and danger, and our situation was not rendered more agreeable by being
+assailed the whole way with continued shouting from persons to us
+invisible; our arrival having been communicated by the Esquimaux who
+first descried us, to their companions on the neighbouring reefs. We
+effected it, however, and landed in safety, though we did not discover
+the island till we were within forty yards of its shore. We had scarcely
+landed before the fog dispersed, and discovered to us a solitary tent on
+an adjacent point. Three men soon paid us a visit, whom we had not seen
+before, and they informed us that nearly the whole of the tribe was now
+collected in the vicinity for the purpose of hunting deer, and catching
+whales and seals for the winter's consumption. We quitted the island at
+ten A.M., and steered directly for Point Kay, to avoid the sinuosities
+of the coast, and the frequent interruption of the Esquimaux, whose
+tents were observed to be scattered on the beach nearly the whole way to
+Babbage River. Three men and some women came off to bring us fish, and
+being liberally rewarded, they went away perfectly happy, singing the
+praises of the white people. We passed round Point Kay at four P.M.,
+with a moderate breeze from W.N.W., and steered for Point King, keeping
+about two miles from the land. As the afternoon wore away, gloomy clouds
+gathered in the north-west; and at six a violent squall came from that
+quarter, attended with snow and sleet. The gale increased with rapidity:
+in less than ten minutes the sea was white with foam, and such waves
+were raised as I had never before been exposed to in a boat. The spray
+and sea broke over us incessantly, and it was with difficulty that we
+could keep free by baling. Our little vessels went through the water
+with great velocity under a close-reefed sail, hoisted about three feet
+up the main-mast, and proved themselves to be very buoyant. Their small
+size, however, and the nature of their construction, necessarily adapted
+for the navigation of shallow rivers, unfitting them for withstanding
+the sea then running, we were in imminent danger of foundering. I
+therefore resolved on making for the shore, as the only means of saving
+the party, although I was aware that, in so doing, I incurred the hazard
+of staving the boats, there being few places on this part of the coast
+where there was sufficient beach under the broken cliffs. The wind
+blowing along the land we could not venture on exposing the boat's side
+to the sea by hauling directly in, but, edging away with the wind on the
+quarter, we most providentially took the ground in a favourable spot.
+The boats were instantly filled with the surf, but they were unloaded
+and dragged up without having sustained any material damage. Impressed
+with a sense of gratitude for the signal deliverance we had experienced
+on this and other occasions, we assembled in the evening to offer up
+praise and thanksgiving to the Almighty.
+
+[Sidenote: Sunday, 27th.] On the 27th the weather was calm; but as a
+heavy surf prevented our embarkation, we took advantage of the delay to
+dry our bedding, clothes, and pemmican. The guns were likewise cleaned,
+and every thing put in order. There was an Esquimaux party at this spot,
+which had witnessed the landing of the boats in the storm with
+astonishment, having expected to see every man drowned. Augustus passed
+the night at their tents; and having brought the whole party to our
+encampment, the women, with much good nature, sewed soles of seal-skins
+to the men's mocassins, in order to fit them better for the operation of
+tracking, in which they were soon to be employed. These Esquimaux had
+recently returned from a visit to the gang that had pillaged the boats
+at the mouth of the Mackenzie; and we now learned the intention that had
+been entertained of destroying our party, along with the other
+particulars that have been already mentioned.
+
+[Sidenote: Monday, 28th.] Our approach to the Mackenzie was marked by
+the quantity of drift timber floating about. We passed several families
+of the natives, without visiting them, until we perceived one party
+taking some fish from their nets, which tempted us to land. The fish
+were large _tittameg_ and _inconnu_, and proved remarkably fine. We
+again embarked, but having to pull head to the sea, we took in much
+water, and were glad to seek shelter on a gravel reef, where three
+Esquimaux tents were pitched. The whole party quickly mustered around
+us, and we were not a little surprised to find so many inhabitants as
+twenty-seven, including women and children, in three tents only; but on
+inquiry we found that the number was not greater than usual. Two of the
+men were very aged and feeble, the rest were young and active. They
+practise jumping, as an amusement, from their youth; and we had an
+opportunity of witnessing some of their feats, which displayed much
+agility. The women cheerfully repaired our mocassins, and their
+industry, as well as the good conduct of the men, were rewarded by some
+valuable presents. We were astonished to learn that there had been fog
+only a day and a half in this neighbourhood since we passed, but the
+wind had been generally strong. Augustus gained some information
+respecting the western Esquimaux, and the coast to the westward, which
+he did not communicate to me until some days afterwards, otherwise I
+should have endeavoured to elicit more satisfactory details. It was to
+the following purport:--The western Esquimaux having purchased the furs
+from those men that dwell near the Mackenzie, at Barter Island, proceed
+to the westward again without delay. A few days journey beyond a part of
+the coast which Augustus understood from description to be Return Reef,
+the sea is still more shallow than that which we had navigated, and the
+water is still, except at certain periods of the year, when it is
+agitated like a strong rapid, by the efflux of the waters of a deep
+inlet, or strait. The land is visible on both sides from the middle of
+this opening; the Esquimaux make for the west side, and on reaching it
+relinquish their canoes, and drag their furs overland to the Russian
+establishments, which are situated in the interior, where the land is
+more elevated than on the coast. The Mountain Indians come down annually
+in large parties to this inlet, and warm contests often arise between
+them and the Esquimaux. The latter are frequently worsted, from their
+inferior numbers, and lose their property, which the Indians bring by
+land to the neighbourhood of Herschel Island, to dispose of to the
+Esquimaux in that quarter. The direction of the inlet was supposed, by
+Augustus, to be about south-west. I am inclined to think that it is the
+estuary of a large river, flowing to the west of the Rocky Mountains,
+obstructed by sand-banks, like the mouth of the Mackenzie. In the course
+of the day three Esquimaux, who had seen our tent from a distance, came
+to visit us. One of them was recognised to have been of the party which
+attacked us at the mouth of the Mackenzie. He gave Augustus a detailed
+account of their schemes on that occasion, which exactly corresponded
+with that we had received on the preceding day. He further told us that
+the party which had assailed us had certainly removed to the eastward;
+but if any of them should have remained, to watch our motions, they
+could be avoided by entering the river by a more westerly branch than
+the one which we had descended, and offered to guide us thither. This
+man was very intelligent, and having carefully examined the boats,
+intimated that he would construct an oomiak after the same plan. We
+embarked at four in the evening with our new friend for a guide, and in
+a short time arrived at the main shore where his tent stood, and where
+he asked the party to encamp, as he intended to go no farther. We were
+not, however, so disposed; and having filled the casks with fresh water,
+and made some presents to the women, we pushed off to take advantage of
+the remaining daylight in getting round a reef which projected far
+seaward. We could not effect this, and at sunset, not being able to land
+on the reef on account of the shallowness of the water, we put back to
+within a mile and a half of the Esquimaux tents. Garry Island was seen
+soon after sunset; and the aurora borealis appeared in the night for the
+first time this season. The temperature of the air varied from 30
+degrees to 49 degrees, and that of the sea water was 37 degrees 2
+minutes, a quarter of a mile from the shore. [Sidenote: Tuesday, 29th.]
+A gale coming on in the night, and continuing till the following
+evening, detained us on shore. During our stay we were visited by a
+numerous party of Esquimaux, and found it necessary to draw a line round
+the tents, which they were not permitted to pass. These people told us
+that Dr. Richardson's party had been seen clear of the Mackenzie, and
+had given kettles to men in three canoes, after escaping an attempt made
+by the Esquimaux to drag the boats on shore. This account, showing that
+the propensity to plunder was not confined to the Esquimaux with whom we
+had met, excited painful apprehensions for the safety of the eastern
+party, if they should find it necessary to return by the Mackenzie,
+because we now learned that the natives collect in numbers near its
+mouth at the close of summer. In ordinary seasons the weather is mild,
+and the winds variable until the ice breaks up, which is usually about
+the end of August, when north-west winds, and stormy weather, are
+expected. In this season, however, the winds had been so boisterous that
+the Esquimaux had seldom been able to venture out to sea, and their
+whale fishery had consequently failed. Our visitors left us about two
+P.M.; but, shortly afterwards, we heard loud cries, and on looking round
+saw two young Esquimaux running in breathless haste to announce that a
+large party of Indians had come down from the mountains with the express
+purpose of attacking the boats and killing every man of the party. They
+desired us to embark instantly, as the only means of escape; for the
+Indians, they said, were already at the tents within our view, and when
+they left them they were on the point of spreading round us to commence
+the onset. They further said, that the Indians, having been provoked by
+our trading with the Esquimaux, had been along the coast in search of
+us, and that it was only this afternoon they had espied our tents,
+which, by the fluttering in the wind, they knew did not belong to the
+Esquimaux. On this discovery they had come to the nearest party of
+Esquimaux to make known their intention, and to request their aid. They
+were met by our two young friends, who were out hunting, but who
+returned with them to their tents, and after learning the plans in
+agitation, had stolen off to apprize us of our danger. As soon as Spinks
+returned, who had gone to shoot, we shoved off; and never were men more
+delighted than our two Esquimaux friends seemed to be at our escape; and
+especially at that of Augustus, to save whom, they asserted more than
+once, was their principal motive in coming to us. While Spinks was out
+of sight, they climbed up to the top of an old house to look for him,
+with the greatest apparent solicitude, and were the first to discover
+him returning. Up to the time of his arrival they kept repeating every
+particular respecting the Indians, and pointing out the mode of avoiding
+them. It was their intention, they said, to pursue us to the Mackenzie,
+but that we should get there before them, because there were two rivers
+in the way which the Indians would have great difficulty in crossing,
+being unprovided with canoes. They urged us to make all speed, and not
+to halt in the night, nor to go to sleep; but, if the crew became tired,
+to put up on an island out of gun-shot of the main shore, because the
+Indians were armed with guns as well as bows. They instructed Augustus
+minutely as to the course we were to steer round the reef, and directed
+us to keep along the main shore until we should come to a large opening,
+which was the western outlet of the Mackenzie, and had a deep channel.
+We rewarded their friendly conduct by a considerable present of iron,
+which they received with an indifference that showed them not to have
+been actuated by interested motives in making the communications.
+Previous to the arrival of these men we had perceived the smoke of a
+distant fire, which we had little regarded, supposing it to have been
+made by some Esquimaux who were hunting, but which, it seems, was the
+fire of the Indians. Having pulled round the reef, and being aided by a
+westerly breeze, we soon regained the main shore, and passed the mouth
+of the two rivers of which the Esquimaux had spoken. The night beginning
+to close in we pulled up to the head of an inlet; when heavy rain and
+squalls coming on, we determined to halt. [Sidenote: Wednesday, 30th.]
+As soon as the day dawned, which was about half-past two in the morning,
+we returned to Shoal Water Bay; and, sailing along the coast for two or
+three miles to the eastward, arrived at another opening, in which the
+water was fresh, and we did not doubt but it would prove the deep
+channel by which we had been instructed to ascend. There was plenty of
+water near its mouth, but it gradually shoaled; and, at the distance of
+four miles, we ascertained that this promising opening was likewise an
+inlet. I now relinquished the search for a more westerly outlet than the
+one by which we had descended, and, therefore, steered for Pillage
+Point, which soon afterwards came in sight. After dragging the boats
+for two hours, over the shoals, we rounded Pillage Point at ten A.M.,
+and reached the deep water most opportunely; for, almost at the instant,
+a violent north-west gale came on, attended by thunder, lightning, and
+torrents of rain. The wind, however, was fair, and brought so much water
+into the channel of the river, that we passed, without obstruction, the
+shallow parts above Pillage Point. A temporary cessation of the rain at
+noon enabled us to land to breakfast; and we afterwards continued to
+scud before the gale until sunset, when we encamped. The temperature
+fell from 48 degrees to 40 degrees in the gale, and we had several
+showers of snow.
+
+During the above run Augustus entertained us with an account, which he
+had learned from the two Esquimaux, respecting the Mountain Indians; the
+substance was as follows:--Seven men of that tribe had been to Herschel
+Island to trade with the Esquimaux, who showed them the different
+articles they had received from us, and informed them of our being still
+on the coast, and that our return by this route was not improbable. This
+intelligence they set off at once to communicate to the rest of their
+tribe, who, supposing that we should ruin their trade with the
+Esquimaux, resolved on coming down in a body to destroy us; and that
+they might travel with expedition, their wives and families were left
+behind. They came to the sea coast by the Mountain Indian River,
+opposite Herschel Island, and finding that we had not returned, but
+supposing it possible that we might pass them there, as they had no
+canoes to intercept us, they determined on travelling to the mouth of
+the Mackenzie, where they could conveniently subsist by fishing and
+hunting until our arrival. They had been informed of the manner in which
+we had been robbed by the Esquimaux at that place, and they formed a
+similar plan of operations. When our crews were wading and launching the
+boats over the flats in Shoal Water Bay, a few of them were to have
+offered their assistance, which they imagined would be readily accepted,
+as we should probably take them for Indians belonging to the Loucheux
+tribe, with whom we were acquainted. While pretending to aid us they
+were to have watched an opportunity of staving the boats, so as to
+prevent them from floating in the deeper channel, which runs close to
+the land near Pillage Point. The rest of the party, on a signal being
+given, were then to rush forth from their concealment, and join in the
+assault. They were, in pursuance of this plan, travelling towards the
+Mackenzie, when they discovered our tents; and it appeared that the two
+young men who brought us the intelligence, had been sent as an act of
+gratitude by an old Esquimaux, to whom we had given a knife and some
+other things, on the preceding day. After hearing the plans of the
+Indians, he called the young men aside and said to them, "These white
+people have been kind to us, and they are few in number, why should we
+suffer them to be killed? You are active young men, run and tell them to
+depart instantly." The messengers suggested that we had guns, and could
+defend ourselves. "True," said he, "against a small force, but not
+against so large a body of Indians as this, who are likewise armed with
+guns, and who will crawl under cover of the drift timber, so as to
+surround them before they are aware; run, therefore, and tell them not
+to lose a moment in getting away, and to be careful to avoid the flats
+at the mouth of the river by entering the western channel."
+
+As the goods which the Mountain Indians exchange with the Esquimaux at
+Herschel Island, are very unlike those issued from any of the Hudson's
+Bay Company's posts, I conclude that they obtain them from the Russians;
+but the traders of that nation being prohibited by their government from
+supplying guns to any Indians, I am at a loss to account for these
+people having them;--perhaps, the prohibition only applies to the
+Esquimaux, or the people on the sea coast. That the Mountain Indians
+have fire-arms we learned, not only on the present occasion, but in our
+first interview with the Esquimaux, at Herschel Island.
+
+The few general remarks which I have to offer, on the subject of a
+North-West Passage, will appear in a subsequent part of the narrative;
+and here I shall only state, that we traced the coast, westward from the
+mouth of the Mackenzie, three hundred and seventy-four miles, without
+having found one harbour in which a ship could find shelter.
+
+[Sidenote: Thursday, 31st.] On the 31st, we continued the ascent of the
+river, and encamped in the evening within the limit of the spruce fir
+trees.
+
+[Sidenote: September 1st.] Favoured by a strong north-west gale, on the
+1st of September, we sailed the whole day along the western main shore,
+and, generally, within view of the Rocky Mountains. One of the numerous
+bends of the river took us within eight miles of part of the mountains,
+which appeared to be composed of a yellow stone, and was from eight
+hundred to a thousand feet in height. In the course of the day we came
+to the most northerly poplars, where the foliage had now assumed the
+yellow autumnal hue. [Sidenote: Saturday, 2nd.] The gale continued with
+strong squalls on the 2nd, and we advanced rapidly under double-reefed
+sails, though the course of the river was very winding. The temperature
+of the air varied from 41 degrees to 35 degrees. [Sidenote: Sunday,
+3rd.] On the third we had calm weather, and still keeping the western
+land aboard, we were led into a river which we had not discovered in our
+descent. The course of this river, was, for a time, parallel to our
+route, and we took it at first for one of the channels of the Mackenzie;
+but, in the afternoon, we saw a mountain to the eastward, and
+ascertained that we were to the Southward of Point Separation. We,
+therefore, began to descend the river again, and encamped shortly after
+sunset. Just after it became dark, voices were heard on the opposite
+side of the river, to which we replied, and soon afterwards, three
+Indians were observed crossing towards us in canoes. They approached
+cautiously, but on being invited to land, they did so, though one of
+them was so great a cripple as to require being carried from the canoe
+to the fire-side. The alarm these poor people had felt, was soon
+dissipated by kind treatment. They were armed with bows and arrows only,
+and clothed in hare skins and leather. Their trowsers were similar to
+those worn by the lower Loucheux, to which tribe they, probably,
+belonged. We could communicate with them only by signs, except by using
+a few words of Chipewyan, which one of them appeared to understand. We
+collected from them that they knew of Fort Good Hope, but none of them
+seemed to have visited it, as they had not a single article of European
+manufacture about their persons. They delineated on a stone the course
+of the Mackenzie, and of the river we had newly discovered, which
+appears to flow from the Rocky Mountains, and to break through the same
+ridge of hill that the Mackenzie does at the Narrows. It is probable,
+that it was to this river the Loucheux alluded, when they told Sir
+Alexander Mackenzie, opposite the present site of Fort Good Hope, that
+there was a river which conducted them to the sea in five days. I have
+distinguished this river by the name of Peel, in honour of His Majesty's
+Secretary of State for the Home Department. It is from a quarter to half
+a mile wide, and its banks are clothed with spruce, birch, and poplar
+trees, like those of the Mackenzie in the same parallel. [Sidenote:
+Monday, 4th.] We set forward at four A.M. on the 4th, with a strong
+favourable breeze, and in an hour, passed another river descending from
+the Rocky Mountains, and nearly as large as the Peel, into which it
+flows. We regained the Mackenzie at noon, and at five P.M. arrived at
+Point Separation, where we encamped. Here we found the boat, rope, and
+kettle, in the same state in which we had deposited them. The kettle was
+a great acquisition to us, because we had suffered much inconvenience in
+having only one for cooking, after the Esquimaux had robbed us of the
+others. The temperature varied during the day from 29 degrees to 55
+degrees, and, in the evening, the sand flies were troublesome.
+[Sidenote: Tuesday, 5th.] We quitted our encampment at day light on the
+5th, and crossed the river to look for a mark which Dr. Richardson was
+to have erected, if he returned by the Mackenzie; but not finding any,
+we deposited a letter and a bag of pemmican, in case he should come at a
+later period, and that his party should be in want of provision. In the
+vicinity of the Red River, we met Barbue, the Chief of the Loucheux, and
+two or three families, who seemed in a sorry condition from want of
+food, the water being too low for fishing. The chief appeared very
+anxious to communicate some intelligence, which he evidently considered
+important, but we could not understand him. We learned afterwards at the
+fort, that it related to the death of a chief by violence on the sea
+coast; this had given rise to a rumour of the death of myself, and
+afterwards of Dr. Richardson, which occasioned us, for a time, much
+anxiety. The weather, on this and several days, was remarkably fine;
+berries of various kinds were very abundant on the banks, and quite
+ripe. [Sidenote: Thursday, 7th.] By the aid of the tracking line, with
+the occasional use of the oars and sails, we proceeded up the river at a
+quick rate, and reached Fort Good Hope, at half-past four on the 7th. In
+consequence of the above-mentioned rumour, I requested Mr. Bell, the
+gentleman in charge of the fort, to despatch two of the Loucheux as
+quickly as possible to the eastern mouth of the river, in order to gain
+any information the Esquimaux could give regarding Dr. Richardson's
+party; and, that the messengers might not be delayed by hunting on the
+way, I left a bag of pemmican for their use. We were sorry to learn that
+there was some apprehension of a serious quarrel arising between the
+upper and lower Loucheux, in consequence of one of Barbue's sons having
+killed his wife, a woman of the latter tribe.
+
+[Sidenote: Friday, 8th.] We quitted Fort Good Hope at noon on the 8th,
+arrived at the entrance of Bear Lake River on the 16th, and on the 21st
+reached Fort Franklin, where we had the happiness of meeting our friends
+in safety. [Sidenote: Thursday, 21st.] The eastern detachment had
+arrived on the 1st of September, after a most successful voyage; and Dr.
+Richardson being anxious to extend his geological researches, as far as
+the season would permit, had gone in a canoe to the Great Slave Lake,
+having previously sent a report of his proceedings, to meet me at Fort
+Good Hope, in case of our being obliged to return by the Mackenzie; but
+the bearer of them passed us without being seen. Having read Mr.
+Kendall's journal, I drew up a brief account of the proceedings of both
+parties for the information of His Majesty's Government, and transmitted
+it by canoe, to Slave Lake on the following morning.
+
+The distance travelled in the three months of our absence from Fort
+Franklin, amounted to two thousand and forty-eight statute miles, of
+which six hundred and ten were through parts not previously discovered.
+
+I cannot close this account of our sea voyage without expressing the
+deep obligation I feel to Lieutenant Back for his cordial co-operation,
+and for his zealous and unwearied assiduity during its progress. Beside
+the daily delineation of the coast in the field book, the service is
+indebted to him for numerous drawings of scenery, as well as of the
+natives; and for an interesting collection of plants. My warmest thanks
+are likewise due to the men of my party, who met every obstacle with an
+ardent desire to surmount it, and cheerfully exerted themselves to the
+utmost of their power. Their cool, steady conduct is the more
+commendable, as the sea navigation was entirely novel to the whole,
+except the seamen Duncan and Spinks, and Hallom, the corporal of
+Marines. The Canadian voyagers, Felix and Vivier, first saw the ocean on
+this occasion.
+
+The following Chapters contain the narrative of the proceedings of Dr.
+Richardson in his own words; and I embrace this opportunity of conveying
+my sincere thanks to him, to Mr. Kendall, and to their respective crews.
+I may be allowed to bear my testimony to the union of caution, talent,
+and enterprise in the former, which enabled him to conduct, with
+singular success, an arduous service of a kind so foreign from his
+profession and ordinary pursuits; and to the science and skill, combined
+with activity, of Mr. (now Lieutenant) Kendall, which must heighten the
+character he has already obtained for general ability and energy in his
+profession. I must not omit to state, that these officers describe the
+conduct of their crews to have been excellent.
+
+_ABSTRACT of the Mean Temperature for each Day during the Voyage along
+the Sea Coast west of the Mackenzie, and on the return to Bear Lake._
+
+  1826. Daily
+  Date.  Mean  Wind and Weather.                Situation.
+  ----------------------------------------------------------------------
+  July.  degs.
+     1   52.8  NNW, WNW, moderate, gloomy       Fort Good Hope
+     2   58.3  West, fresh, clear               } Mackenzie River,
+     3   50.3  WNW, fresh, clear                } betwn lat. 67 deg.
+     4   55.8  West, SSW, N, light, gloomy      } 28 min., & 60 deg.
+     5   53.7  SW, NE, moderate, gloomy, foggy  } 53 min. N., longitude
+     6   45.1  NNW, ENE, fresh, moderate, rain  } 130-1/2 deg. &
+     7   41.6  SE, moderate, clear              } 136-1/2 deg. W.
+     8 } Not                                    Mouth of the
+       } regist'd.                              Mackenzie.
+     9 } Thermom.    ENE, strong, fog and rain
+    10 } stolen by                              } Between the
+    11 } Esquimaux.                             } Mackenzie &
+    12   51.6  EbyN. fresh, gloomy              } Herschel Isld.
+    13   53.3  Variable, fog and rain           } lat 68 deg. 53 min. &
+    14   50.5  Calm, rain, ENE, moderate, clear } 60 deg. 34 min. N.,
+    15   48.6  Calm, clear, NW, moderate, foggy } long. 136 deg. 19. min
+    16   47.3  SSE, moderate, snow, fog         } & 139 deg. 5 min. W.
+    17   44.8  NW, North, moderate, hazy        Herschel Island.
+    18   43.6  NW, moderate, clear              }
+    19   43.4  NW, moderate, heavy rain and fog }
+    20   39.3  NW, fresh, fog                   }
+    21   51.3  East, SE, clear                  }
+    22   58.5  SE, light, clear                 } Between Icy Reef &
+    23   51.6  West, calm, East, clear          } Herschel Island,
+    24   45.6  Calm, variable, clear            } latitude 69 deg. 34
+    25   42.0  West, light, calm, foggy         } min. & 69 deg. 44
+    26   44.3  Calm, NW, fog                    } min. N., longitude 139
+    27   41.4  West, NW, moderate, fog          } deg. 5 min. and 141
+    28   43.2  ENE, light, gloomy               } deg. 30 min. W.
+    29   41.6  ENE, strong, misty               }
+    30   40.3  ENE, fresh, moderate, clear      }
+    31   42.7  NE, moderate, clear, fresh and   }
+         -----                           foggy  }
+  Mean   47.61
+  ----------------------------------------------------------------------
+   Aug.
+     1   42.0  NE, gale, foggy                  } Between Icy Reef &
+     2   44.6  ENE, strong, moderate, clear     } Flaxman's Island, lat.
+     3   44.1  ENE, moderate, clear             } 69 deg. 44 min. & 70
+     4   40.7  East, moderate, clear            } deg. 11 min. N., long.
+     5   42.6  Calm, WbyN, moderate             } 141 deg. 30 min. & 145
+     6   43.2  Calm, ESE, light, clear          } deg. 50 min. W.
+     7   42.8  ENE, fresh, clear               _}
+     8   42.9  ENE, strong, fog                 }
+     9   41.6  NE, strong, fog                  }
+    10   39.5  ENE, strong, fog                 } Foggy Island, lat.
+    11   41.1  NE, moderate, fog                } 70 deg. 16 min. N.
+    12   41.1  East, moderate, very foggy       } longitude 147 deg.
+    13   41.6  NE, strong, foggy                } 38 min. W.
+    14   41.3  ENE, NE, moderate, foggy         }
+    15   38.1  NE, fresh, hazy                  }
+
+_ABSTRACT the Mean Temperature for each Day during the Voyage along the
+Sea Coast west of the Mackenzie, and on the return to Bear Lake._
+
+  1826. Daily
+  Date.  Mean  Wind and Weather.                Situation.
+  ----------------------------------------------------------------------
+   Aug.  degs.
+    16   35.0  ENE, fresh, foggy                } Return Reef, lat.
+    17   37.4  NE, gale, very foggy             } 70 deg. 26 min. N. lg.
+    18   36.2  NE, strong, clear               _} 148 deg. 52 min. W.
+    19   36.4  NE, strong, foggy                } Foggy
+    20   36.4  NE, fresh, foggy                _} Island.
+    21   35.7  NNE, North, moderate, clear      }
+    22   37.6  North, NE, light, clear          } Between Foggy Island &
+    23   41.0  Calm, clear                      } the Mouth of the
+    24   39.4  Calm, clear, foggy in the night  } Mackenzie, lat. 70
+    25   41.2  Calm, fog, NE, light, ESE, strong} deg. 16 min. and 68
+    26   39.6  WNW, NW, heavy gale, snow, sleet } deg. 53 min. N. lon.
+    27   39.8  Calm, ESE, light, clear          } 147 deg. 38 min. and
+    28   43.0  SW, strong, clear                } 136 deg. 19 min. W.
+    29   52.5  SSW, heavy gale                 _}
+    30   45.6  NW, Heavy gale, rain             } Mackenzie
+    31   42.4  Calm, SW, gloomy                 } River.
+         -----
+  Mean   40.85
+  ----------------------------------------------------------------------
+  Sept.
+     1   38.3  NW, gale, snow                   }
+     2   38.6  NW, strong, clear                }
+     3   41.1  Calm, moderate, SE, clear        }
+     4   41.3  SE, NW, moderate, clear          }
+     5   45.9  SE, light, clear                 }
+     6   51.0  Variable, light, clear           }
+     7   44.8  SE, light, NW, strong            }
+     8   41.0  NW, strong, snow                 }
+     9   39.3  East, moderate, clear            }
+    10   45.8  SE, light, clear                 } Mackenzie
+    11   45.8  NW, moderate rain                } River.
+    12   37.3  NW, moderate, gloomy             }
+    13   37.2  Calm, SE, light, clear           }
+    14   37.9  ESE, moderate, clear             }
+    15   42.7  Calm, moderate, fresh, gloomy    }
+    16   44.5  Variable, light, gloomy          }
+    17   36.9  Variable, moderate, rain         }
+    18   29.4  NW, fresh, gloomy                }
+    19   24.6  NW, moderate, gloomy             }
+    20   29.2  ESE, fresh, clear                }
+    21   31.1  ENE, fresh, clear                Fort Franklin.
+         -----
+  Mean   39.22
+  ----------------------------------------------------------------------
+  NOTE.--The thermometer used in this register, was compared with those
+  in use at Fort Franklin during ten days after our return, and found to
+  coincide with them.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[3] I have recently learned, by letter from Captain Beechey, that the
+barge turned back on the 25th of August, having been several days beset
+by the ice. He likewise informs me, that the summer of 1827 was so
+unfavourable for the navigation of the northern coast of America, that
+the Blossom did not reach so high a latitude as in the preceding year;
+nor could his boat get so far to the east of Icy Cape, by one hundred
+miles. The natives, he says, were numerous, and, in some instances,
+ill-disposed.
+
+
+
+
+DR. RICHARDSON'S NARRATIVE OF THE PROCEEDINGS OF THE EASTERN DETACHMENT
+OF THE EXPEDITION.
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+Leave Point Separation and descend the Eastern Channel of the
+Mackenzie--Arrive at Sacred Island--Esquimaux Graves--Interview with the
+Natives; their thievish disposition--Attempt to gain possession of the
+Union--Heavy Gale--Find Shelter in Refuge Cove--Low
+Coast--Mirage--Stopped by Ice at Point Toker--Reach the Sea.
+
+
+[Sidenote: July 4th.] The two parties of which the Expedition was
+composed, having spent the evening of the 3rd of July in cheerful
+conversation about their future prospects, prepared to separate on the
+morning of the 4th. By six o'clock all the boats were stowed; and
+Captain Franklin, Lieutenant Back, and their party, had committed
+themselves to the stream in the Lion and Reliance; while the Eastern
+Detachment, drawn up on the beach, cheered them on their departure with
+three hearty huzzas. The voices of our friends were heard in reply until
+the current had carried their boats round a projecting point of land,
+when we also embarked to proceed on our voyage. Our detachment was
+composed of twelve individuals, distributed in two boats, named the
+Dolphin and Union.
+
+        IN THE DOLPHIN.                      IN THE UNION.
+
+  Dr. Richardson.                    Mr. Kendall.
+  Thomas Gillet, _Coxswain_.         John M'Leay, _Coxswain_.
+  John M'Lellan, _Bowman_.           George Munroe, _Bowman_.
+  Shadrach Tysoe, _Marine_.          William Money, _Marine_.
+  Thomas Fuller, _Carpenter_.        John M'Duffey.
+  Ooligbuck, _Esquimaux_.            George Harkness.
+
+The instructions we received were, to trace the coast between the
+Mackenzie and Coppermine Rivers, and to return from the latter overland
+to Great Bear Lake. Ice was the only impediment we dreaded as likely to
+prove an obstacle to the execution of these orders. We knew that the
+direct distance between the two rivers did not amount to five hundred
+miles; and, having provisions for upwards of eighty days stowed in the
+boats, we were determined not to abandon the enterprize on light
+grounds, especially after we had seen the friends that had just parted
+from us embark with so much cheerfulness in their more arduous
+undertaking.
+
+On leaving Point Separation we pulled, for two hours, against the
+current, to regain the entrance of the "Middle Channel," which was first
+explored by Mackenzie, on his way to the sea, in 1798, and more
+perfectly surveyed by Captain Franklin, on his voyage to Garry's Island,
+last autumn. It has a breadth of nearly a mile, and a depth of from
+three to five fathoms; though in one place, where there was a ripple,
+the sounding lead struck against a flat bed of stone in nine feet water.
+Having proceeded about ten miles in this channel, we entered a branch
+flowing to the eastward, with the view of tracing the course of the main
+land. Mackenzie, on his return from the sea by this route, observed many
+trees having their upper branches lopped off by the Esquimaux, and we
+saw several such trees in the course of the day. The lands are low and
+marshy, and inclose small lakes which are skirted by willows. The
+summits of the banks are loaded with drift-timber, showing that they are
+all inundated by the spring floods, except a few sandy ridges which
+bound the principal channels, and which are clothed with well-grown
+white spruce trees. Our voyage amongst these uninteresting flats was
+greatly enlivened by the busy flight and cheerful twittering of the
+sand-martins, which had scooped out thousands of nests in the banks of
+the river, and we witnessed with pleasure their activity in thinning the
+ranks of our most tormenting foes the musquitoes. When our precursor,
+Sir Alexander Mackenzie, passed through these channels on the 10th of
+July, 1789, they were bounded by walls of ice veined with black earth,
+but the present season was so much milder, that the surface of the banks
+was every where thawed.
+
+An hour before noon we put ashore to cook our breakfast, near a clump of
+spruce trees, where several fires had recently been made by a party
+which had left many foot-prints on the sand; probably a horde of
+Esquimaux, on their return from trading with the Indians at the Narrows.
+A thunder storm that obscured the sky, prevented Mr. Kendall from
+ascertaining the latitude at noon, which was the hour we chose for
+breakfast throughout the voyage, in order to economize time, as it was
+necessary to land to obtain the meridian observation of the sun. In the
+afternoon we continued to descend the same channel, which has a smooth
+and moderately rapid current, and a general depth of two or three
+fathoms. At four P.M. we obtained a view of a ridge of land to the
+eastward, which we have since learned is named by the natives the
+Rein-Deer Hills, and at seven encamped near two conical hills of
+limestone, about two hundred feet high, and clothed with trees to their
+tops. The length of the day's voyage was forty-two miles. We selected a
+sandy bank, covered with willows sixteen feet high, for our encamping
+place; and here again we found that a party of Esquimaux had lately
+occupied the same spot, the ashes of their fires being still fresh, and
+the leaves of the willow poles to which they had attached their nets,
+unwithered. Before we retired to bed, the arms were examined, and a
+watch was set; a practice which we kept up for the remainder of the
+voyage. Much rain fell in the night.
+
+[Sidenote: Wednesday, 5th.] On the 5th we embarked at four in the
+morning, and soon afterwards, the channel conducting us to the base of
+the Rein-Deer Hills, Mr. Kendall and I ascended an eminence, which was
+about four hundred feet high. Its summit was thinly coated with gravel,
+and its sides were formed of sand and clay, inclosing some beds of
+brownish-red sandstone, and of gray-coloured slate-clay. Clumps of trees
+grew about half way up, but the top produced only a thin wiry grass. At
+eleven A.M. we landed to breakfast, and remained on shore until noon, in
+the hope of obtaining an observation for latitude, but the sun was
+obscured by clouds. In the afternoon I had an extensive view from the
+summit of a hill of flat alluvial lands, divided into islands by
+inosculations of the channels of the river, and bounded, at the distance
+of about forty miles to the westward, by the Rocky Mountains. As we
+advanced to the northward, we perceived the trees to diminish in size,
+becoming more scattered, and ascend a shorter way up the sides of the
+hills, and they altogether terminated in latitude 68 degrees 40 minutes,
+in an even line running across the islands; though one solitary spruce
+fir was seen in 68 degrees 53 minutes. Perhaps the lands to the
+northward of this abrupt line were too low and wet for the growth of the
+white spruce, the tree which attains the highest latitude on this
+continent.
+
+We pitched our tents for the night on the site of another Esquimaux
+encampment, where a small bit of moose deer's meat was still attached to
+a piece of wood at the fire-place; and we saw, from the tracks of the
+people and dogs in the sand, that a party had left the river here to
+cross the Rein-Deer Hills. From information obtained through the
+Sharp-eyed, or Quarreller tribe of Indians, this appears to be one of
+the Esquimaux routes to a large piece of brackish water named Esquimaux
+Lake, and alluded to by Mackenzie in several parts of his narrative. The
+length of our voyage this day was forty-four miles, and our encampment
+was opposite to an island named by Captain Franklin after William
+Williams, Esq., late governor of Prince Rupert's land. We observed here
+an unusually large spruce tree, considering the high latitude in which
+it grew; it measured seven feet in circumference, at the height of four
+feet from the ground. A hole was dug at the foot of the hill, in sandy
+soil, to the depth of three feet without reaching frozen ground.
+
+[Sidenote: Thursday, 6th.] On the 6th, heavy and continued rain delayed
+our embarkation until ten o'clock in the forenoon, and the weather,
+during the rest of the day, was hazy, with occasional showers of small
+rain. Before leaving the encampment, we lopped the branches from a tree,
+and suspended to it a small kettle, a hatchet, an ice-chisel, and a few
+strings of beads, together with a letter written in hieroglyphics, by
+Mr. Kendall, denoting that a party of white people presented these
+articles to the Esquimaux as a token of friendship.[4] As we advanced,
+we came to the union of several ramifications of the middle channel with
+the eastern branch of the river, and the breadth of the latter increased
+to two miles; its depth of water being rarely less than three fathoms.
+In latitude 69 degrees, the eastern channel of the Mackenzie makes a
+turn round the end of the Rein-deer-hills which terminate there, having
+previously diminished in height to about two hundred feet. At the
+commencement of this turn, there is a small island nearly equal to the
+main land in height, and appearing when viewed from the southward, to be
+a continuation of it. Its position pointing it out to be the one
+described by Mackenzie as possessing "a sacred character," and being
+still a burial place of the Esquimaux, I named it Sacred Island. We saw
+here two recent, and several more ancient graves. The bodies were
+wrapped in skins closely covered with drift-wood, and laid with their
+heads to the west; so that the rule mentioned by Captain Lyon in his
+account of Melville peninsula, does not obtain on this part of the
+coast; for there none but the bodies of infants are placed in that
+direction. Various articles, such as canoes, sledges, and fishing nets,
+were deposited near the graves.
+
+Sacred Island is formed entirely of layers of fine sand of different
+colours, covered by a little vegetable mould. One of its sides being
+steeply escarped by the waves, showed its structure completely. Amongst
+the vegetable productions of this spot, we noticed the perennial lupine,
+the narrow-leaved epilobium, and some currant bushes in full flower, and
+growing with great luxuriance. From its summit we had a view of the
+river flowing in many channels, both to the eastward and westward. The
+islands lying in sight to the westward are low, and apparently inundated
+when the river is flooded; but to the eastward, there are many islands
+having hummocks as high as Sacred Island, and judging from those that
+were near, they are, like it, composed of sand. The channels surrounding
+the island appear to be shallow.
+
+After leaving that island, we steered along the main shore to a sandy
+point about four miles distant, and encamped near a very recent resting
+place of a large party of Esquimaux, not fewer than ten fires having
+been made since the heavy rain of the morning. There was also vestiges
+of five or six winter-houses on this point. Richards' Island, which was
+named in honour of the Governor of the Bank of England, forms the
+opposite bank of the channel here, and exhibits, like the neighbouring
+islands, some sandy hummocks and cliffs. The length of the day's voyage
+was twenty-five miles, and our encampment was situated in lat. 69
+degrees 4 minutes N., long. 134 degrees 10 minutes W.
+
+[Sidenote: Friday, 7th.] We embarked on the morning on the 7th at four
+o'clock, in cold, hazy weather, and soon came to a point of Richards'
+Island, on which there were four or five Esquimaux tents, with several
+skin canoes, and boats lying on the beach. I had previously arranged
+that on our first interview with the Esquimaux, I was to land with
+Ooligbuck, whilst Mr. Kendall kept the boats afloat ready to lend us
+such aid as might be required; conceiving that this was the best way of
+inspiring the natives with confidence, should they be distrustful, or of
+securing freedom of action to our crews should they prove unfriendly.
+The muskets were kept in the arm-chest out of sight, but ready for
+instant use. As we drew near the point, two women, who were walking
+along the shore, looked at us with amazement for some minutes, and then
+ran into the tents and alarmed their inmates. Several men instantly
+rushed out, nearly naked, with their bows and quivers in their hands,
+making furious gestures and apparently much frightened. I desired
+Ooligbuck to speak to them, and called to them myself in their own
+language that we were friends; but their terror and confusion was so
+great, that they did not appear to comprehend us. I then took a few
+beads, files, and knives, in my hand, and landing with Ooligbuck, made
+some presents to the men, and told them I was come to trade. The moment
+I mentioned the word "trade" (_noowoerlook_), their fears subsided, and
+they sent away their bows, but retained their long knives; those that
+were clothed thrusting them into their pockets or up their sleeves. An
+old woman who seemed to have greater self-possession than the rest, and
+to understand my meaning more readily, ran and fetched some dried fish,
+for which I gave her beads; and the others then began to manifest an
+eager desire of exchanging their fish for any thing that I offered. More
+people coming from the tents, a crowd was formed, who obtained all the
+trading articles I had brought on shore. As their surprise subsided,
+their boldness and clamour increased, and some few of them began again
+to use threatening expressions and gestures, either from a dislike to
+strangers coming into their country, or for the purpose of intimidation
+and extortion. When the interview assumed this disagreeable character,
+Ooligbuck said that they were very bad people, and entreating me to
+embark, took me on his back and carried me on board. At the same time,
+several of the natives ran into the water and attempted to drag the boat
+ashore, but on my calling to them they desisted. One fellow, whose
+countenance, naturally disagreeable, had been rendered hideous by the
+insertion of a large brass thimble into a perforation in the under lip,
+seized upon our tea-kettle, and endeavoured to conceal it under water,
+but being seen from the Union, he was made to return it.
+
+When we left the shore, all the males, twenty-one in number, embarked in
+their small canoes or kaiyacks and accompanied us; and in less than a
+quarter of an hour, the women had struck the tents and embarked them,
+together with their children, dogs, and luggage, in their row boats or
+oomiaks, and were in close pursuit. For a time we proceeded down the
+river together in an amicable manner, bartering beads, steels, flints,
+files, knives, hatchets, and kettles, for fish, adzes, spears, and
+arrows. The natives seemed to have a correct idea of property, and
+showed much tact in their commerce with us; circumstances which have
+been held by an eminent historian to be evidences of a considerable
+progress towards civilization[5]. They were particularly cautious not to
+glut the market by too great a display of their stock in trade;
+producing only one article at a time, and not attempting to out-bid each
+other; nor did I ever observe them endeavour to deprive one another of
+any thing obtained in barter or as a present. As is usual with other
+tribes of Esquimaux, they asked our names and told us theirs, a practice
+diametrically opposite to that of the Indians, who conceive it to be
+improper to mention a man's name in his presence, and will not, on any
+account, designate their near relatives, except by some indirect phrase.
+They showed much more curiosity respecting the construction of our boats
+than any of the tribes of Indians we had seen, and expressed great
+admiration of the rudder, soon comprehending its mode of action,
+although it is a contrivance of which they were previously ignorant.
+They were incessant in their inquiries as to the use of every thing they
+saw in our possession, but were sometimes content with an answer too
+brief to afford much explanation; as in the following instance.
+Ooligbuck had lighted his pipe and was puffing the smoke from his mouth,
+when they shouted "_ookah, ookah_," (fire, fire,) and demanded to be
+told what he was doing. He replied with the greatest gravity,
+"_poo-yoo-al-letchee-rawmah_" (I smoke); and this answer sufficed. On my
+referring to an Esquimaux vocabulary, Ooligbuck, in answer to their
+questions, told them that the book spoke to me, when they entreated me
+to put it away. I afterwards detected the rogue with the brass thimble
+endeavouring to steal this book, and placed it, as I thought, out of his
+reach; it was missing in the evening, but I never ascertained whether it
+had been purloined by the Esquimaux or had fallen overboard in moving
+some of the stores. Seeing me use my pocket telescope, they speedily
+comprehended its use, and called it "_eetee-yawgah_" (far eyes) the name
+that they give to the wooden shade which is used to protect their eyes
+from the glare of the snow; and which, from the smallness of its
+aperture, enables them to see distant objects more clearly. Of our
+trading articles, light copper kettles were in the greatest request, and
+we were often asked for the long knives which are used for flinching
+whales. It is creditable to the Esquimaux habits of cleanliness, that
+combs were in great demand, and we saw wooden ones of their own
+manufacture, not dissimilar to ours in form. I distributed
+looking-glasses to some of the young men, but they were mostly returned
+again, although I do not know on what account.
+
+This party of Esquimaux, being similar in features and dress to the
+tribe seen by Captain Franklin, and not differing materially from the
+Esquimaux inhabiting Melville peninsula which have been so fully
+described by Captains Parry and Lyon, it is not necessary to enter into
+any detail here on those points. Ooligbuck's dialect and theirs differed
+a little, but they mutually understood one another. I observed that they
+invariably sounded the letter _m_ instead of _g_, when in the middle of
+a word, calling Ooligbuck, Oolimbauk. Ooligbuck's attempts to pronounce
+"Doctor" were sufficiently imperfect, but to our visitors, the word
+seemed utterly unattainable, and they could designate me only by the
+term _Eheumattak_ or chief. They succeeded better with the names of some
+of the men, readily naming Tysoe, and calling Gillet "_Hillet_." The
+females, as they passed in their oomiaks, bestowed on us some glances
+that could scarcely be misconstrued,--their manners, in this respect,
+differed widely from those of the Indian women, who have a modest and
+even shy demeanour. Some of the young girls had a considerable share of
+beauty, and seemed to have spared no pains in ornamenting their persons.
+Their hair was turned up in a neat knot, on the crown of the head, and a
+lock or queue, tied by a fillet of beads, hung down by the ears, on each
+side. Mr. Nuttall, in his account of the Quapaws or Arkansas, mentions
+that the unmarried women wear their hair braided into two parts, brought
+round to either ear in a cylindrical form and ornamented with beads; and
+a similar attention to head-dress is paid by some of the Indian women
+inhabiting the borders of the great Canada lakes, and also by the
+Tawcullies or Carriers of New Caledonia;[6] but the females of all the
+tribes of Indians that we saw in our route through the northern parts of
+the fur countries, suffer their hair to hang loose about their ears,
+and, in general, adorn their persons less than the men of the same
+tribes. The Esquimaux women dressing better, and being required to
+labour less, than the Indian females, may be considered as a proof that
+the former nation has made the greater progress towards civilization;
+and I am of opinion that the Esquimaux would adopt European habits and
+customs much more readily than the Indians.
+
+Though there are many circumstances which widely distinguish the
+Esquimaux from their Indian neighbours, they might all, possibly, be
+traced to the necessity of associating in numbers for the capture of the
+whale, and of laying up large hoards of blubber for winter consumption.
+Thus have they been induced to build villages for their common
+residence, and from thence have originated those social habits which are
+incompatible with the wandering and precarious life of an Indian hunter.
+It would lead, however, to too long a digression, were I to enter into
+details on this subject, and I resume, therefore, the narrative of the
+voyage.[7]
+
+In the course of the morning we came to several other encampments, one
+of them consisting of nine tents; and each party no sooner learnt who we
+were, than they embarked bag and baggage and followed us. Some of the
+new comers were shy, and kept aloof, but in general they were too
+forward. Emboldened by their increase of numbers, they gradually became
+more daring, and running their kaiyacks alongside, laid hold of the
+boat's gunwale, and attempted to steal any thing within their reach. To
+lessen their opportunities of annoying us, I was obliged to keep the
+crews constantly rowing, for when we attempted to rest, three or four
+fellows would instantly seize the opportunity of lifting the blades of
+the oars and pushing their kaiyacks alongside, whilst others would cling
+on by the bows and quarters, nor could they be dislodged without much
+trouble. They manifested great cunning and dexterity in their pilfering
+attempts, and frequently acted in concert. Thus, one fellow would lay
+hold of the boat with both his hands; and while the coxswain and I were
+disengaging them, his comrade on the other side would make the best use
+of his time in transferring some of our property into his canoe, with
+all the coolness of a practised thief. The smaller things being,
+however, put as well out of the way as possible, and a strict look-out
+kept, they were, in almost every instance, detected; and they restored,
+with the most perfect good humour, every article they had taken, as soon
+as it was demanded, often laughing heartily at their own want of
+address. They succeeded only in purloining a bag of ball, and a
+powder-horn, as the theft was not perceived at the time. I was
+unwilling to check this conduct by a display of arms, because I was
+desirous of gaining the natives by kindness and forbearance, the more
+especially, as our ignorance of the state of the ice rendered it
+doubtful, whether we might not be under the necessity of encamping, for
+some time, in their neighbourhood. Had we resented their pilfering
+attempts too hastily, we should have appeared the aggressors, for they
+expressed great good-will towards us, readily answered such questions as
+we were able to put to them about the course of the river, pointed out
+to us the deepest channels, invited us to go ashore to cook our
+breakfast, and even offered to provide us with wives, if we would pass
+the night at their tents. For very obvious reasons we declined all their
+invitations; but our crews being fatigued with continual rowing, and
+faint from want of food, we halted at one P.M., by the side of a steep
+bank, and breakfasted in the boats, insisting on the Esquimaux keeping
+aloof whilst we were so engaged.
+
+In the afternoon we had to search for a passage amongst islands, there
+being no longer water enough near the main shore to float our boats. The
+Esquimaux undertook to guide us, but whether through accident or design,
+they led us, on one occasion, into a shallow channel, where we grounded
+on a sand-bank, over which there was a strong current setting; and we
+had not only much difficulty in getting afloat, but had to pull, for an
+hour, against the stream, to regain the passage we had left. Soon after
+this, one of the natives made a forcible attempt to come into the
+Dolphin, under the pretext of bartering two large knives which he held
+in his hand; and the dexterity with which he leaped from his kaiyack was
+remarkable. There were three other kaiyacks betwixt him and our boats,
+which, on his giving the signal, were, by their owners laying their
+broad paddles across, instantly converted into a platform, over which he
+ran with velocity and sprang upon the stern seat of the Dolphin, but he
+was immediately tumbled out again. Judging from the boldness of this
+fellow's behaviour, and the general tenour of the conduct of the
+natives, that sooner or later they might be tempted to make an attack
+upon us, I adopted, as a measure of precaution, the plan of purchasing
+their bows, which are their most powerful weapons. They were at first
+unwilling to part with them; but finding that we would take nothing else
+in exchange for the articles we had to dispose of, they ultimately let
+us have a good number. The Esquimaux bows are formed of spruce-fir,
+strengthened on the back by cords made of the sinews of the rein-deer,
+and would have been prized, even beyond their favourite yew, by the
+archers of Sherwood. They are far superior to the bows of the Indians,
+and are fully capable of burying "the goose-wing of a cloth-yard shaft"
+in the heart of a deer.
+
+Several of the young men tried the speed of their kaiyacks against our
+boats, and seemed to delight in showing us how much their little vessels
+excelled ours in velocity. Towards evening the women's oomiaks had all
+gone ahead, and we were given to understand that they were about to
+encamp for the night. Thinking that they would choose the best route, we
+followed them into a channel, which proved too shallow; and when we put
+about to try another, the natives became more urgent than ever that we
+should land and encamp along with them. Just as we were about to enter a
+passage which the Esquimaux, doubtless, knew was deep enough, and led by
+the shortest route to the sea, the Union grounded upon a bank, about
+half a bow-shot from the shore. Seven or eight of the natives instantly
+jumped out of their kaiyacks, and laying hold of the boat's bow and
+steering-sweep, attempted to drag her ashore. They were speedily joined
+by others, who hurried from the beach with knives in their hands; and
+Mr. Kendall seeing that he would almost immediately be surrounded by a
+force too great to permit his men to act, called to me that he should be
+obliged to fire. Fully aware of the necessity of prompt measures, I
+answered that he was at liberty to fire if necessary. Upon which,
+snatching up his fowling-piece, he presented it at three of the most
+daring who had hold of the sweep-oar, and his crew who were now in the
+water endeavouring to shove the boat off, and struggling with the
+natives, jumped on board and seized their muskets. The crew of the
+Dolphin likewise displayed their arms and stood ready, but I ordered
+that no individual should fire until called upon by name. They were,
+however, the instant that a shot was fired from the Union, to lay the
+Dolphin aground alongside of her, that thus we might present only two
+assailable sides to the enemy. Happily there was no occasion to fire at
+all; the contests of the Esquimaux with the Indians had taught them to
+dread fire-arms, and on the sudden sight of every man armed with a
+musket, they fled to the shore. Until that moment we had kept our guns
+carefully concealed in the arm-chest, to prevent any of the natives from
+snatching them away and disarming us, and also that they might not deem
+our intentions to be other than pacific.
+
+I do not believe that the natives had matured a plan of attack, but the
+stranding of a boat on their own shore was too great a temptation to be
+resisted. Some individuals had previously shown unequivocal signs of
+good feeling towards us, such as bringing back the Union's sweep-oar,
+which had slipped from the coxswain's hands; and also in pointing out
+the channel we afterwards pursued to the sea, as preferable to the one
+which the oomiaks had taken. Even the better-disposed, however, would,
+doubtless, have joined the others, had they began to plunder with
+success; for they told us in the forenoon that there was no one of their
+horde acknowledged as a chief. It is probable that the Esquimaux were
+doubtful as to the sex of some of our party, until they saw them prepare
+for battle. None but women row in their oomiaks, and they had asked
+Ooligbuck if all the white women had beards.
+
+The crews on this occasion behaved with a coolness and resolution worthy
+of the utmost praise, executing without the slightest confusion the
+orders they received. Mr. Kendall acted with his usual judgment; and his
+prudence and humanity, in refraining from firing, merit the highest
+encomiums. The Union being speedily set afloat by her crew, we pulled
+together through a wide channel, three feet deep. The spot where this
+transaction took place has been named Point Encounter, and is in
+latitude 69 degrees 16 minutes N., and longitude 136 degrees 20 minutes W.
+
+The Esquimaux seemed to hold a consultation on the beach after we left
+them; but, as none attempted to follow us immediately, we enjoyed the
+respite from their forwardness and clamour, which had become very
+harrassing, particularly to Mr. Kendall and myself, who had other duties
+to attend to. He had full occupation in surveying and delineating the
+route; and as the Dolphin led the way through a shoal and intricate
+navigation, it was requisite that I should keep the sounding-lead
+constantly going, and be on the watch for any change in the appearance
+of the current which might indicate shoal water, the smallness of our
+crews preventing me from appointing any man to that service. In about an
+hour after leaving Point Encounter, we observed ten kaiyacks coming
+towards us from a cluster of islands; they soon overtook us, but kept at
+a reasonable distance, and no longer gave us any trouble by coming
+alongside. We wished to show that we had no desire to hurt them,
+notwithstanding their past conduct, and, therefore, began again to trade
+with them; yet we were naturally anxious that they should leave us
+before we encamped, because, from the fleetness of their kaiyacks, they
+could soon collect a great number of their countrymen, and give us much
+annoyance in the night. Our wishes were seconded by a fresh breeze of
+wind springing up and enabling us to set the sails, by which the crews
+enjoyed a rest, after fourteen hours' labour at the oars; and the
+Esquimaux had greater difficulty in keeping up with the increased
+velocity of our boats. Thinking that they would quit us as soon as they
+lost the hope of getting more goods, I desired Ooligbuck to tell them I
+would trade no more, and they accordingly, one by one, dropped behind
+and left us. Three followed us longer than the others, and as they were
+not of the party which attacked the Union, and had hitherto received
+nothing from us, I made each of them a small present of beads and
+fire-steels, when they also took leave, calling out "_teymah,
+peechaw-ooloo_," "friendship is good."
+
+We learned in the course of the day, from the natives, that they call
+themselves _Kitte-garroe-oot_, (inhabitants of the land near the
+mountains,) and that they were now on their way to a place favourable
+for the capture of white whales, as in the sea, which they said was many
+days' march distant, there was too much ice to take the black whales at
+this season. It also appeared that they annually ascend to the Narrows
+of Mackenzie River, for the purpose of trading with the Quarrellers, and
+were accustomed to spend their summers in a large lake of brackish
+water, (Esquimaux Lake,) lying to the eastward, where they occasionally
+meet parties of Loucheux. They informed us that the land to the eastward
+of Encounter Point is a collection of islands, and that there were many
+of their countrymen fishing in the rivers which separate them. They had
+heard of the Esquimaux at the mouth of the Coppermine River, and knew
+them by their name of _Naggoe-ook-tor-moe-oot_, (or Deer-horns,) but
+said they were very far off, and that they had no intercourse with them;
+adding, that all the inhabitants of the coast to the eastward were bad
+people. They knew white people by the name of _Kabloonacht_, and Indians
+by that of _Eitkallig_, the same appellations that are used by the
+Esquimaux of Hudson's Bay; but their name for the black whale was
+different from that given to it by Ooligbuck; and they also gave names
+to some of their utensils which he had never heard before. Ooligbuck was
+not of much use as an interpreter, in our intercourse with these people,
+for he spoke no English; but his presence answered the important purpose
+of showing that the white people were on terms of friendship with the
+distant tribes of Esquimaux. As a boatman he was of the greatest
+service, being strongly attached to us, possessing an excellent temper,
+and labouring cheerfully at his oar.
+
+We could not ascertain the numbers of Esquimaux we saw in the course of
+the day, because they were always coming and going, but we passed at
+least thirty tents, and had reason to believe that on some of the
+islands there were tents which we did not see. Four grown people is,
+perhaps the average number of the inhabitants of each tent. A short time
+before the attack on the Union, I counted forty kaiyacks round the two
+boats.
+
+The wind freshened, and the night began to look stormy, as we stood
+across a wide sound which was open from the N.W. to the N.E., and had a
+depth of water varying from three to seven feet. White whales were seen;
+and some of the crew thought the water tasted brackish. About nine P.M.
+a drizzling rain came on, attended with very dark weather, which induced
+us to make for a round islet, with a view of encamping, and securing the
+boats for the night; it was skirted by shoals that prevented us from
+landing, and we therefore anchored the boats by poles stuck in the mud,
+raised the coverings of the cargo on masts and oars, so as to turn off
+the rain; and after eating our supper and setting a watch, we
+endeavoured to get some repose by lying down in our clothes, wet as they
+were. We had scarcely laid down, however, before the wind changed and
+began to blow with violence directly on the shore, so as to render it
+necessary for us to shift our situation without delay. An attempt was
+made to row the boats round to the other side of the islet, but they
+drifted upon the shoals in spite of the exertions of the crew, and began
+to strike violently. [Sidenote: Saturday, 8th.] In this perilous
+situation we perceived some smooth water to leeward, upon which setting
+the foresails, the boats were pushed over a sandy bar into two fathoms
+water. We then stood towards the eastern shore, and keeping in deep
+water, entered a small inlet, which received the name of Refuge Cove;
+where having made fast the boats to the beach, pitched a tent on the
+shore, and set a watch, we attempted a second time to obtain some rest.
+
+We were not, however, destined to enjoy much repose that night, for we
+had scarcely overcome the chilliness occasioned by lying down in wet
+clothes, when the Union broke from her moorings in a violent gust of
+wind, and began to drive across the inlet towards the lee-shore, on
+which there was a considerable surf. Mr. Kendall and one of the crew,
+who were sleeping on board, to be ready in case of accident, lowered the
+covering with the utmost expedition, and taking the oars, kept her from
+driving far, until the rest of the party arrived to their assistance in
+the Dolphin. The boats were brought to the beach and secured, and we had
+again retired to rest, when the tent-pegs, although loaded with drift
+timber, were drawn up by the force of the wind, and the tent, drenched
+with rain, fell upon us. It was in vain to attempt to sleep after this,
+benumbed as we were by the coldness of the weather; but the rain ceasing
+about four in the morning of the 8th, we were enabled to make a good
+fire, and dry our clothes. The cargo of the boats was then landed, the
+wet packages spread out to dry, and the boats were drawn upon the beach
+so as to form, with the baggage, a three-sided breast-work, to which we
+could retreat, should the Esquimaux pay us a hostile visit. These
+arrangements being made, the tent was removed to a more sheltered spot,
+and we slept quietly until ten o'clock in the morning. In the night an
+accident happened to Mr. Kendall, which might have had fatal
+consequences, and alarmed us at the time exceedingly. The point of a
+small two-edged knife which he wore in a sheath slung from his neck,
+was, by his falling against one of the tent-poles, forced through the
+sheath into his side, exactly in the region of the heart. Through the
+mercy of Providence, its progress was arrested by one of the ribs, and
+the wound healed in the course of a few days. At noon a meridian
+observation was obtained, which placed the mouth of Refuge Cove in
+latitude 69 degrees 29 minutes N.; and the sun's bearing showed the
+variation of the magnetic needle to be 49-1/2 degrees easterly. The
+length of our voyage the preceding day was fifty-seven miles. Refuge
+Cove has an irregular form; its length is about two miles and a half,
+and its greatest width one mile. It is upwards of two fathoms deep at
+the entrance, and for some distance within; but a bar runs from Shoal
+Islet to its north side. Its shores are flat and sandy, but here and
+there hummocks rise abruptly to the height of one hundred feet,
+resembling the downs on the Norfolk coast. The sandy hummocks are bound
+together by the creeping fibrous roots of a species of grass, named
+_Elymus mollis_; and many of them are covered by a coat of black
+vegetable mould. Ruins of Esquimaux houses, that appeared to have been
+deserted for many years, were scattered along the borders of the cove,
+and much drift-timber lay on the low grounds. We saw some ducks and
+geese, and two of the crew went to hunt round the harbour for deer, but
+they had no success.
+
+The wind having moderated in the evening, we prepared to resume the
+voyage, and had begun to load the boats, when I thought I saw a
+_kaiyack_ paddle across the mouth of the cove. It was followed by many
+others, that were in succession lost behind the point, with the
+exception of one which seemed to return and look into the inlet. I
+concluded that the natives were in search of us; and, as it was
+desirable to have all the cargo on board when they arrived, the utmost
+despatch was used in loading the boats. Before this operation was
+completed, Mr. Kendall, on attentively examining one of the objects with
+his telescope, suggested that it was not a kaiyack; and accompanying me
+to a sandy eminence nearer the entrance of the cove, we ascertained that
+the whole was an optical deception, caused by the haze of an easterly
+wind magnifying the stumps of drift wood, over which the surf was
+rolling. The imagination, no doubt, assisted in completing the
+resemblance, but the deception, for a few minutes, was perfect.
+
+We quitted Refuge Cove at nine o'clock in the evening, and rounding
+Shoal Islet, steered to the northward along the coast. The circuit of
+Shoal Islet was made because there was too little water to float our
+boats over the bar, which we had crossed the preceding evening. The
+temperature of the air on leaving the cove, was 36 degrees, but it fell
+at midnight to 32 degrees; and the night proved fine. When resting on
+our oars, the boats were drifted to the westward, by a current which we
+ascertained, by subsequent observations, to be the flood tide.
+
+[Sidenote: Sunday, 9th.] After pulling along the coast for some time,
+the ice-blink appeared in the horizon, and about one o'clock in the
+morning on the 9th, we could perceive a stream of ice lying at the
+distance of eight or nine miles from the shore, and inclosing several
+small icebergs. At four o'clock, a northerly breeze springing up,
+brought a quantity of loose ice down upon us, and we made for the shore.
+This part of the coast is skirted to the distance of two miles by flat
+sands, on which there is not more than a foot or eighteen inches of
+water. The depth of water gradually increases to four fathoms, which it
+attains at the distance of six or seven miles from the shore, and the
+heavy ice we saw outside, showed that the depth there was considerable.
+Esquimaux winter-huts occur frequently on the coast, and the rows of
+drift-trees planted in the sand with the roots uppermost, in their
+vicinity, assume very curious forms, when seen through a hazy
+atmosphere. They frequently resembled a crowd of people, and sometimes
+we fancied they were not unlike the spires of a town just appearing
+above the horizon. We learnt by experience that the shore was more
+approachable at the points on which the Esquimaux had built, and we
+effected a landing at one of those places, when, having discharged the
+cargoes, we hauled the boats up, and pitched the tents. The water at our
+landing-place was fresh, but too hard to make tea; and at four or five
+miles from the shore, it was disagreeable to drink. Out of respect to
+Captain Toker of the Royal Navy, under whom I had once the honour to
+serve, his name was given to this Point. Mr. Kendall ascertained its
+latitude to be 69 degrees 38 minutes N.; its longitude by reckoning, 132
+degrees 18 minutes W.; and the variation of the magnetic needle 50-1/2
+degrees easterly. The distance rowed from Refuge Cove was about twelve
+miles. A tide pole was erected, by which it appeared that the ebb ran
+from four o'clock, the time at which we landed, until ten in the
+morning, producing a fall of eighteen inches; but the afternoon tide did
+not rise so high, and at 10h. 50 minutes P.M. it was low water again,
+the wind blowing fresh from the northward all the time.
+
+The vicinity of Point Toker, like the rest of the lands to the eastward
+of Point Encounter, consists of level sands, inclosing pieces of water
+which communicate with the estuary of the river, and interspersed with
+detached conical hills rising from one to two hundred feet above the
+general level. These hills are sometimes escarped by the action of the
+water, and are then seen to consist of sand of various colours, in which
+very large logs of drift-timber are imbedded. They are covered by a coat
+of black vegetable earth, from six inches to a foot in thickness, which
+shows that they cannot be of very recent formation, though at some
+distant period they may have been formed by the drifting of moveable
+sands. At present, the highest floods reach only to the foot of the
+hills, where they deposit a thick layer of drift-timber. One straight
+log of spruce fir, thirty feet long, was seven feet in circumference at
+the small end, and twelve a short distance above the root. The branches
+and bark are almost always rubbed off from the drift-timber which
+reaches the sea, but a few of the main divisions of the root are
+generally left. Various instruments tied up in bundles were suspended to
+poles near some of the Esquimaux houses, such as spear-heads and ice
+chisels made from the tooth of the narwhal, and spoons of musk-ox horn.
+The marine animals that frequent this part of the coast, according to
+the information we obtained from the Esquimaux, are, the white whale,
+the narwhal, large and small seals, (_oggoe-ook_ and _nat-choe-ook_,)
+and a species of black whale, named _aggee-woerk_. There are also many
+sea-fish, of which the capeline (_ang-mag-goe-ook_,) that abound on the
+shoals at this season, are most easily caught. The natives are
+unacquainted with sea-horses. Swans, Canada and white geese, and Arctic
+ducks, are numerous, and we killed several. Ooligbuck likewise killed a
+rein-deer, which afforded us an agreeable change of diet.
+
+In the evening, having assembled in one of the tents, prayers were read,
+a practice to which we adhered on every Sunday evening during the
+voyage. At 10h. 45m. P.M., I lighted a piece of touchwood with a convex
+lens, an inch in diameter, the altitude of the sun being then 3 degrees
+6 minutes. It is seldom that the sun in warmer climates affords so much
+heat at so low an altitude.
+
+[Sidenote: Monday, 10th.] The ice opening a little, we resumed the
+voyage at five o'clock in the morning of the 10th, but had not rowed
+above five miles, when our further progress was impeded by a ridge of
+grounded-ice, extending apparently far out to sea. We landed to obtain a
+view from a height, and took advantage of the opportunity to prepare
+breakfast. Whilst thus engaged, we discovered, on the opposite side of a
+bay which we had just crossed, two of the natives couched upon the sand,
+and evidently watching us; but before we had concluded our meal, they
+went off. On re-embarking, we went round the ice which was aground on
+extensive sandy spits, and then pulled in for the shore; but a fresh
+breeze of wind created such a swell, that we did not advance above three
+miles in two hours. Deeming it unadvisable to fatigue the crews, while
+the progress was so small, we pulled into a sandy bay, and made the
+boats fast to one of many large pieces of ice which were stranded on the
+beach, having gained since setting out in the morning, eight miles.
+
+Just as we made for the shore, we observed three Esquimaux regarding us
+from an eminence, and two others soon afterwards joined them: the latter
+being, as we discovered from the direction of their path over the sands,
+the two we had seen at breakfast-time. They retired as we drew near the
+beach, and on reconnoitring the neighbourhood, we discovered three
+skin-tents, whose owners were running off with their effects in great
+alarm. As we had experienced how troublesome the natives were, when
+relieved from their fears, we did not seek an interview at this time;
+and to guard against accidents from parties of them way-laying our men,
+I determined that, while we remained in this anchorage, the crews should
+land only to cook their provisions and then be accompanied either by Mr.
+Kendall or myself. The water at our anchorage was decidedly brackish,
+the beach was strewed with _sertulariae_ and other marine productions,
+and several white whales were seen in the offing; all which
+circumstances being considered as decided evidences of our having
+reached the mouth of the river, that event was celebrated by issuing to
+each of the men a glass of grog, which had been reserved for the
+occasion.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[4] As the reader may desire to know what hieroglyphics were used to
+express our intentions, a copy of the letter is annexed.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+[5] Robertson's _History of America_.
+
+[6] _Harmon's Journal_, p. 288.
+
+[7] The Esquimaux method of settling disputes, which we learned from
+Augustus, deserves to be mentioned, not only as being very different
+from the sullen conduct of an affronted Indian, but from its coincidence
+with the practice of a people widely separated from them--the native
+inhabitants of Sydney, in New South Wales. Mr. Cunningham, in his
+entertaining work on New South Wales, says, "The common practice of
+fighting amongst the natives is still with the _waddie_, each
+alternately stooping the head to receive the other's blows, until one
+tumbles down, it being considered cowardly to evade a stroke." The
+Esquimaux use the fist instead of the waddie, in these singular duels,
+but there is no other difference betwixt their practice and that of the
+New South Wales' people. Another coincidence betwixt the Esquimaux and
+the inhabitants of Australasia, is the use of the throwing stick for
+discharging their spears.
+
+
+
+
+CONTINUATION OF THE PROCEEDINGS OF THE EASTERN DETACHMENT.
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+Detention by wind--Visited by Esquimaux--Cross a large Stream of fresh
+Water--Winter Houses on Atkinson Island--Gale of Wind, and Fog--Run into
+Browell Cove--Double Cape Dalhousie--Liverpool Bay and Esquimaux
+Lake--Icy Cliffs--Meet another Party of Esquimaux--Cape Bathurst.
+
+
+[Sidenote: Tuesday, 11th.] The wind blew so strongly during the 11th,
+that we remained in our mooring-place, landing occasionally to take a
+little exercise on the beach; and as it continued to freshen from the
+north-east in the evening, most of the ice in the offing had drifted out
+of sight, while a great reduction took place at the same time in the
+number and size of the pieces of stranded ice. One of them which had
+grounded about a mile outside of us, and rose fifteen feet above the
+water, fell over and floated away with the ebb tide. Mr. Kendall
+obtained a meridian observation for latitude, and afterwards took
+several sets of lunar distances, whose results placed our anchorage in
+latitude 69 degrees 42-1/2 minutes N., and longitude 131 degrees 58
+minutes W. In the afternoon two Esquimaux were seen walking fast over a
+hill, and often stopping and looking anxiously around them. About
+midnight two black foxes carried off the scraps of meat that had been
+left at our cooking-place, and buried them carefully in the sand above
+high-water mark. We observed that they dug separate hiding-places for
+each piece, and that they were careful to carry the largest bits
+farthest from the sea. The time spent inactively at the anchorage was so
+irksome, that even the movements of these animals were a subject of much
+interest to us, and we felt great regret when they were scared away by
+the talking of the men in the boats.
+
+[Sidenote: Wednesday, 12th.] No material alteration took place in the
+weather on the 12th. The temperature was 45 degrees; but from the force
+of the wind, and our confinement in the boats, we felt cold. In the
+evening two elderly Esquimaux came to us in their kaiyacks, shouting as
+they approached the boats, and paddling boldly alongside. They told us
+that they were the same two whom we had seen in the morning of the 10th
+watching us while at breakfast, though they had first discovered us on
+the 9th, and had seen Ooligbuck kill the deer, which had alarmed them
+greatly; they had since been to inquire about us from the party at
+Point Encounter, and having learnt that we were well-disposed, they had
+come to open a communication. In allusion, I suppose, to the attempt on
+the Union, they often said that the Esquimaux at the river's mouth were
+bad people, but that they themselves were good-hearted men; and they
+struck their breasts forcibly with their hands, to give energy to their
+assurances. They told us that a large party of their countrymen, who
+were at present fishing at the mouth of a river to the eastward, would
+soon move in this direction to kill white whales. Eetkoo-yak, the
+principal spokesman, invited us to go to his tents, where he said, the
+women would be glad to receive us; and added, that next day he would
+bring four of his countrymen to visit us. We made them a handsome
+present of iron-work; and having paid, with beads, for some dried fish,
+sent them away highly contented.
+
+[Sidenote: Thursday, 13th.] At seven o'clock in the morning of the 13th,
+nine Esquimaux came to us, amongst whom were our two acquaintances of
+yesterday. Some of the young men inquired when we were going away, and
+seemed to be anxious that we should depart; but our friend Eetkoo-yak
+gave us a pressing invitation to his tents, and wished to embark in the
+boats to conduct us thither. We declined his proposal, and the wind
+having moderated, we unmoored the boats, and rowed along the coast. The
+natives followed us, and soon afterwards four women and two boys came
+off in an oomiak, and exchanged some boots, pieces of leather, deer's
+meat, and fish for beads. The point on which their tents were pitched
+was named Point Warren after my friend Captain Samuel Warren, R.N. As we
+continued our course the oomiak returned to the shore, and the men also
+left us soon afterwards, apparently pleased with our departure; for the
+knowledge of the effect of our muskets seemed to have impressed them
+with some dread. They were tattooed across the cheeks. The tribes to the
+westward of the Mackenzie are described by Captain Franklin, (p. 111,)
+as following a different fashion in the application of this ornament.
+
+We coasted this day a flat shore, with dry sands running off to the
+distance of two or three miles, and we passed within several shoals, on
+which some heavy ice had grounded. Only a few small streams of ice were
+seen, although the ice-blink was visible the whole day. Soon after
+rounding Point Warren, we crossed the mouth of a large river, the water
+being muddy and fresh for a breadth of three miles, and the sounding
+lead was let down to the depth of five fathoms, without striking the
+bottom. This river is, perhaps, a branch of the Mackenzie, and falls
+into a bay, on which I have bestowed the name of my esteemed friend
+Copland Hutchinson, Esq. Surgeon Extraordinary to His Royal Highness
+the Duke of Clarence. On its east side there is an island, which was
+named after Captain Charles Phillips, R.N. to whom the nautical world is
+indebted for the double-capstan, and many other important inventions.
+
+At five o'clock in the afternoon, rainy weather setting in, we made for
+a small island, and mooring the boats as near the beach as we could,
+covered them up, and landed to prepare supper. The length of the day's
+voyage was twenty-eight miles and a half. Mr. Kendall named the island
+in honour of Mr. Atkinson, of Berry-House; it is situated in latitude 69
+degrees 55 minutes N., longitude 130 degrees 43 minutes W., and is
+separated from a flat, and occasionally inundated shore, by a narrow
+creek. It is bounded towards the sea by a bulwark of sand-hills, drifted
+by the wind to the height of 30 feet. Under their shelter 17
+winter-houses have been erected by the natives besides a large building
+which from its structure, seemed to be intended for a place of assembly
+for the tribe. Ooligbuck thought it was a general eating-room, but he
+was not certain, as his tribe erect no such buildings.
+
+I annex a section and ground plan of one of the largest of the
+dwelling-houses. The centre (A) is a square of ten feet, having a level
+flooring, with a post at each corner (D,D) to support the
+ridge-poles,[8] on which the roof rests. The recesses (B) are intended
+for sleeping-places. Their floors have a gentle inclination inwards, and
+are raised a foot above the central flooring. Their back walls are a
+foot high, and incline outwards like the back of a chair. The
+ridge-poles are six feet above the floor, the roof being flat in the
+centre, and sloping over the recesses. The inside of the building is
+lined with split-wood, and the outside is strongly but roughly built of
+logs, the whole being covered with earth. An inclined platform (C) forms
+the ascent to the door, which is in the middle of one of the recesses,
+and is four feet high; and the threshold, being on a level with the
+central flooring, is raised three feet above the surrounding ground, to
+guard against inundations. There is a square hole in the roof, near the
+door, intended for ventilation, or for an occasional entrance. As we
+observed no fire-places in these dwellings, it is probable that they are
+heated, and the cookery performed in the winter, with lamps. Some of the
+houses were built front to front, with a very narrow passage between
+them leading to the doors, which were opposite to each other. This
+passage must form a snug porch in the winter when it is covered with
+slabs of frozen snow, and one end stopped up. Some of the larger houses
+which stood single, had log-porches to shelter their doors; and near
+each house there was a square or oblong pit, four feet beneath the
+surface of the ground, lined and covered with drift timber, which was
+evidently intended for a store-house.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+The large building for an assembly-room was, in the interior, a square
+of 27 feet, having the log-roof supported on two strong ridge poles, two
+feet apart, and resting on four upright posts. The floor in the centre,
+formed of split logs, dressed and laid with great care, was surrounded
+by a raised border about three feet wide, which was, no doubt, meant for
+seats. The walls, three feet high, were inclined outwards, for the
+convenience of leaning the back against them, and the ascent to the
+door, which was on the south side was formed of logs. The outside,
+covered with earth, had nearly a hemispherical form, and round its base
+there were ranged the skulls of 21 whales. There was a square hole in
+the roof, and the central log of the floor had a basin-shaped cavity,
+one foot in diameter, which was, perhaps, intended for a lamp. The
+general attention to comfort in the construction of the village, and the
+erection of a building of such magnitude, requiring a union of purpose
+in a considerable number of people, are evidences of no small progress
+towards civilization. Whale skulls were confined to the large building,
+and to one of the dwelling-houses, which had 3 or 4 placed round it.
+Many wooden trays, and hand-barrows for carrying whale blubber, were
+lying on the ground, most of them in a state of decay.
+
+Myriads of musquitoes, which reposed among the grass, rose in clouds
+when disturbed, and gave us much annoyance. Many snow birds were
+hatching on the Point, and we saw swans, Canada geese, eider, king,
+arctic, and surf ducks; several glaucous, silvery, black-headed, and
+ivory gulls, together with terns and northern divers. Some laughing
+geese passed to the northward in the evening, which may be considered as
+a sure indication of land in that direction. The sea-water at Atkinson
+Island being quite salt, and the ponds on the shore brackish, we had
+recourse to the ice that lay aground for a supply of fresh water. Strong
+gales of wind, with heavy rain, continued all night.
+
+[Sidenote: Friday, 14th.] The rain ceasing at four o'clock in the
+morning of the 14th, we embarked, and pulled along a sandy bar which
+projected five or six miles from Atkinson Island, and was covered by
+masses of ice. We had not left the beach above an hour, when a thick fog
+hid the land from our view, and a noise of breakers being at the same
+time heard, we deemed it prudent to moor the boats to a piece of
+grounded ice, and wait for clear weather. After a time, the fog
+dispersing partially, we made sail before a fresh breeze towards the
+most easterly point of land in sight, but we had not advanced above five
+or six miles before the looming of the shore on the larboard bow made it
+necessary to haul to the wind; and the fog becoming as dense as ever, we
+ran aground on some flats, where the surf nearly filled the boats. On
+lowering the sails, deeper water was attained, but the wind began to
+blow hard directly upon the shore, and we could not discover a
+landing-place, nor did we even know our distance from the beach. In this
+dilemma we saw a long line of floating sea-weed, and Ooligbuck
+suggesting that it came from the mouth of a river, we followed its
+direction, and, with the aid of the sounding lead, groped our way
+betwixt two shoals into a well sheltered inlet. Here there was a good
+landing-place, and we deemed ourselves peculiarly fortunate in reaching
+so snug a harbour, for the fog continued all day, and the wind increased
+to a heavy gale.
+
+The inlet was named Browell Cove, in honour of the Lieutenant-Governor
+of the Royal Hospital at Greenwich, and the bay to the westward of it,
+M'Kinley Bay, out of respect to Captain George M'Kinley, of the Naval
+Asylum. The latitude of the mouth of Browell Cove is 70 degrees N., and
+the longitude 130 degrees 19 minutes W. We did not ascertain its extent,
+but as its water is brackish, it probably communicates with Esquimaux
+Lake, which, according to Indian report, lies behind the islands that
+form this part of the coast. Several large basins of salt water
+communicate with the cove. Some herds of deer were seen, but too many
+hunters going in pursuit of them they were frightened away. The
+temperature throughout the day was 42 degrees.
+
+I observed forty species of plants in flower here, of which nearly
+one-third were grasses and carices. The Thrift common on the sandy parts
+of the British coast is a frequent ornament of Browell Cove; and seven
+or eight of the other plants seen there, are natives of the Scottish
+hills. Two dwarf species of willows were the only shrubs.
+
+[Sidenote: Saturday, 15th.] The fog clearing away, and the wind
+moderating, we embarked about three in the morning of the 15th; and
+steering along the coast, came to a group of low sandy islands, that
+were separated by wide but very shallow channels, and skirted, to the
+distance of five or six miles, by sand-banks, which were nearly dry at
+low water. In rounding these banks our soundings varied from two feet to
+two fathoms, and we were occasionally led almost out of sight of the
+land. During the whole day we saw much ice to seaward, and in some
+places it was so closely packed as to render it doubtful whether a ship
+would have been able to make way through it. The line of deep water was
+marked by large masses of ice lying aground, and was about ten miles
+from the shore. As we could not reach the beach, we disembarked upon a
+piece of ice at noon, and cutting up a spare seat for fire-wood,
+proceeded to cook our breakfast, and make observations for latitude and
+magnetic variation.
+
+After rounding the shoals, we made a traverse of ten miles across an
+inlet, where the water ran out with a strong current; and, though five
+fathoms deep, it was nearly fresh. This I supposed to be another
+communication betwixt Esquimaux Lake and the sea, and named it Russel
+Inlet, after the distinguished Professor of Clinical Surgery in the
+University of Edinburgh. The land on its western side was called Cape
+Brown, out of respect to the eminent botanist, whose scientific
+researches reflect so much credit on British talent; and that to the
+eastward of the inlet received the name of Dalhousie, in honour of His
+Excellency the Governor-in-Chief of the Canadas. Cape Dalhousie consists
+of a number of high, sandy islands, resembling those seen from Sacred
+Island, in the mouth of the Mackenzie. We entered some deep inlets
+amongst them, in search of a landing-place, but the beach was every
+where too flat. At length, after dragging the boats through the mud for
+a considerable way, and carrying the cargoes for a quarter of a mile
+over a flat sand, we reached the shore, and pitched the tents. The
+island on which we encamped was similar to the others, being from one
+hundred to one hundred and fifty feet high above the water, and bounded
+on all sides by steep, sandy cliffs, which were skirted by flat sands.
+From the summit of the island we had the unpleasant view of a sea
+covered with floating ice, as far as the eye could reach to the
+eastward. Temperature during the greater part of the day 55 degrees; at
+nine P.M. 52 degrees. Wind easterly. The length of this day's voyage was
+thirty miles and a half; the latitude of the encampment 70 degrees 12
+minutes, and longitude 129 degrees 21 minutes W.
+
+[Sidenote: Sunday, 16th.] On the 16th the boats were afloat, and loaded
+by seven in the morning, when we pulled round Cape Dalhousie, and found
+the land trending as we wished to the south-east. Since reaching the
+sea, the coast had gradually inclined to the northward, which with the
+increased quantity of ice seen on the two or three last days, led us to
+fear that a cape might exist, extending so far to the northward, as to
+prevent us from reaching the Coppermine River within the period to which
+our voyage was limited. It was, therefore, with peculiar satisfaction,
+that, on putting ashore to cook breakfast, we saw distant land to the
+S.E., apparently of greater height than that which we had recently
+coasted; and we now flattered ourselves that we were about to leave
+behind us the low coasts and shoals, which render the boat navigation
+across the mouths of the Mackenzie and Esquimaux Lake so perplexing and
+hazardous. Many deer were seen at our breakfasting-place, and the
+musquitoes annoyed them so much that there would have been no difficulty
+in approaching them, if we could have spared time to send out the
+hunters.
+
+Having obtained an observation for latitude, we directed our course to a
+projecting point across an inlet, with no land visible towards its
+bottom. The soundings in the middle of the opening exceeded nine
+fathoms; the water became less salt as we advanced, and at last could
+only be termed brackish. The point proved to be an Island sixteen miles
+distant from our breakfasting-place; and as we approached it, we had the
+mortification to perceive a coast seven or eight miles beyond it,
+apparently continuous, and trending away to the north-north-west. The
+island was named Nicholson Island, as a mark of my esteem for William
+Nicholson, Esq., of Rochester. It is bounded by high cliffs of sand and
+mud, and rises in the interior to the height of four hundred feet above
+the sea. The cliffs were thawed to the depth of three feet, but frozen
+underneath, and the water issuing from the thawing ground caused the mud
+to boil out and flow down the banks. There were many small lakes on the
+island, and a tolerably good vegetation. Amongst other plants I gathered
+here a very beautiful American cowslip, (_dodecatheon_,) which grew in
+the moist valleys. From the summit of the island a piece of water,
+resembling a large river, and bearing south, was seen winding through a
+country pleasantly varied by gently swelling hills and dales, and
+differing so much in character from the alluvial islands we had just
+left, that I thought myself justified in considering it to be part of
+the main land. From S.W. to W.N.W. open water was seen, broken only by a
+few islands, that were named after Major-General Campbell, of the Royal
+Marines. This large sheet of water is undoubtedly the Esquimaux Lake,
+which, according to the natives, not only communicates with the eastern
+branch of the Mackenzie, but receives, besides, two large rivers; and,
+consequently, the whole of the land which we coasted from Point
+Encounter, is a collection of islands. The temperature varied this day
+from 38 degrees to 55 degrees. The length of the day's voyage was
+thirty-three miles, the latitude of our encampment 69 degrees 57
+minutes, and longitude 128 degrees 18 minutes W.
+
+[Sidenote: Monday, 17th.] On the 17th a thick fog detained us until nine
+o'clock in the morning, when it dispersed, and we left our encampment.
+About two miles from Nicholson's Island the water was nine fathoms deep,
+and had a brackish taste; but as we continued our course to the
+northward, it became shoaler and salter. This added to the probability
+of the winding channel, which bore south, being a large river; and that
+opinion was further strengthened by our observing, when we landed to
+breakfast, the shore to be strewed with tide-wrack, resembling that
+which is generally found on the banks of rivers in this country, such as
+pieces of willows, fragments of fresh-water plants, and lumps of peat
+earth. We were delighted to find here a beach of sand and fine gravel,
+bold enough to admit of our running the boats upon it. The fresh
+footsteps of a party of Esquimaux were seen on the sand.
+
+After obtaining an observation for latitude, we embarked, and continued
+our course along the coast until we came to the extremity of a cape,
+which was formed by an island separated from the main by a shallow
+channel. The cliffs of this island were about forty feet high, and the
+snow which had accumulated under them in the winter, was not yet
+dissolved, but, owing to the infiltration and freezing of water, now
+formed an inclined bank of ice, nearly two-thirds of the height of the
+cliff. This bank, or iceberg, being undermined by the action of the
+waves, maintained its position only by its adhesion to the frozen cliffs
+behind it. In some places large masses had broken off and floated away,
+whilst in others the currents of melting snow floating from the flat
+land above, had covered the ice with a thick coating of earth; so that
+at first sight it appeared as if the bank had broken down; the real
+structure of the iceberg being perceptible only where rents existed. In
+a similar manner the frozen banks, or icebergs, covered with earth,
+mentioned by Lieutenant Kotzebue, in his voyage to Behring Straits,
+might have been formed. Had the whole mass of frozen snow broken off
+from this bank, an iceberg would have been produced thirty feet wide at
+its base, and covered on one side to the depth of a foot, or more, with
+black earth. The island was composed of sand and slaty clay, into which
+the thaw had not penetrated above a foot. The ravines were lined with
+fragments of compact white limestone, and a few dwarf-birches and
+willows grew on their sides. The sun's rays were very powerful this day,
+and the heat was oppressive, even while sitting at rest in the boat; the
+temperature of the air at noon being, in the shade, 62 degrees, and that
+of the surface water, where the soundings were three fathoms, 55
+degrees.
+
+Immediately after rounding the cape, which was named after His
+Excellency Sir Peregrine Maitland, Lieutenant-Governor of Upper Canada,
+we entered a channel ten miles wide, running to the eastward, with an
+open horizon in that direction; and a doubt arose as to whether it was a
+strait, or merely a bay. Many large masses of ice were floating in it,
+which proved to us that it had considerable depth; but the water being
+only brackish, excited a suspicion that there was no passage through it.
+While we were hesitating whether to hazard a loss of time by exploring
+the opening, or to cross over at once to the northern land, several deer
+were seen, and the hope of procuring a supply of fresh meat, induced us
+to put ashore and encamp for the night, that the hunters might go in
+chase. The beach here was strewed with fragments of dark-red sandstone,
+white sandstone, white compact limestone, and a few pieces of syenite.
+There were many large trunks of spruce-firs lying on the sand,
+completely denuded of their bark and branches; and numerous exuviae of a
+marine crustaceous animal (_gammarus borealis_) lay at high water mark.
+Our hunters were successful, Ooligbuck and M'Leay each killing a deer.
+Many of these animals had fled to the cool moist sands on the coast, but
+even there the musquitoes tormented them so much as to render them
+regardless of the approach of the hunters. The latitude of our
+encampment was 70 degrees 7 minutes, longitude 127 degrees 45 minutes;
+and the length of the day's voyage twenty-three miles. The temperature
+varied from 52 degrees to 63 degrees. By watching the motion of the tide
+for the greater part of the night, I fully satisfied myself that the ebb
+set out of the opening, and that the flood came round the land on the
+north side; hence I concluded that there could be no passage to the
+eastward in this direction, and that the opening led into a bay, to
+which the name of Harrowby was given, in honour of the Right Honourable
+the Earl of Harrowby.
+
+[Sidenote: Tuesday, 18th.] Embarking on the 18th at three in the
+morning, we set the sails to a favourable though light breeze, and using
+the oars at the same time, crossed Harrowby Bay, at its mouth. During
+the traverse, land was seen round the bottom of the bay. On nearing the
+shore we distinguished twelve Esquimaux tents on an eminence; and a
+woman who was walking on the beach gave the alarm, but not until we were
+near enough to speak to her, her surprise having fixed her to the spot
+for a time. The men then rushed out, brandishing their knives, and,
+using the most threatening expressions, forbade us to land, and desired
+us to return by the way we came. Ooligbuck endeavoured to calm their
+fears, by telling them that we were friends, but they replied only by
+repeating their threats, and by hideous grimaces and gestures, which
+displayed great agility; frequently standing on one foot and throwing
+the other nearly as high as the head. At length on my bawling
+"_noowoerlawgo_," (I wish to barter,) they became quiet at once, and one
+of them running to his kaiyack, and paddling off to us, was followed by
+many of the others, even before they could witness the reception we gave
+him. They came boldly alongside, and exchanged their spears, arrows,
+bows, and some pieces of well-dressed seal-skin, for bits of old
+iron-hoop, files and beads. They were not so well furnished with
+iron-work as the Esquimaux we had seen further to the westward, and very
+eagerly received a supply from us. In our intercourse with them we
+experienced much advantage from a simple contrivance suggested by Mr.
+Kendall, and constructed during our halt in Refuge Cove: it was a
+barricade formed by raising the masts and spare oars eighteen inches
+above the gunwale on two crutches or davits, which not only prevented
+our Esquimaux visitors from stealing out of the boats, but, in the event
+of a quarrel, could have been rendered arrow proof by throwing the
+blankets or sails over it. On a light breeze springing up we set the
+sails, and continuing to ply the oars, advanced at the rate of four
+miles an hour, attended by eleven kaiyacks. Three oomiaks with the
+women followed us, and we found that, when rowed by two women, and
+steered by a third, they surpassed our boats in speed.
+
+The females, unlike those of the Indian tribes, had much handsomer
+features than the men; and one young woman of the party would have been
+deemed pretty even in Europe. Our presents seemed to render them
+perfectly happy, and they danced with such ecstasy in their slender
+boats as to incur, more than once, great hazard of being overset. A
+bundle of strings of beads being thrown into an oomiak, it was caught by
+an old woman, who hugged the treasure to her breast with the strongest
+expression of rapture, while another elderly dame, who had stretched out
+her arms in vain, became the very picture of despair. On my explaining,
+however that the present was for the whole, an amicable division
+instantly took place; and to show their gratitude, they sang a song to a
+pleasing air, keeping time with their oars. They gave us many pressing
+invitations to pass the night at their tents, in which they were joined
+by the men; and to excite our liberality the mothers drew their children
+out of their wide hoods, where they are accustomed to carry them naked,
+and holding them up begged beads for them. Their entreaties were, for a
+time, successful; but being desirous of getting clear of our visitors
+before breakfast-time, we at length told them that our stock was
+exhausted, and they took leave.
+
+These Esquimaux were as inquisitive as the others we had seen respecting
+our names, and were very desirous of teaching us the true pronunciation
+of theirs. They informed us that they had seen Indians, and had heard of
+white people, but had never seen any before. My giving a little deer's
+meat to one of them in exchange for fish, led to an inquiry as to how we
+killed the animal. On which Ooligbuck showed them his gun, and obtaining
+permission, fired it off after cautioning them not to be alarmed. The
+report astonished them much, and an echo from some neighbouring pieces
+of ice made them think that the ball had struck the shore, then upwards
+of a mile distant. The women had left us previously; several of the men
+departed the instant they heard the report; and the rest, in a short
+time, followed their example. They applied to the gun the same name
+they give to their harpoons for killing whales.
+
+We learned from these people that the shore we were now coasting was
+part of the main land, and that some land to the northward, which
+appeared soon after we had passed their tents, consisted of two islands;
+between which and the main shore, there was a passage leading to the
+open sea. On landing to cook breakfast and obtain a meridian observation
+for latitude, we observed the interior of the country to be similar to
+that seen from Nicholson's Island. The soil was in some spots sandy,
+but, generally, it consisted of a tenacious clay which cracks in the
+sun. The air was perfumed by numerous tufts of a beautiful phlox, and of
+a still handsomer and very fragrant cruciform flower, of a genus
+hitherto undescribed.
+
+On re-embarking we pulled about eight miles farther betwixt the islands
+and the main, and found a narrow opening to the sea nearly barred up.
+The bottom was so soft and muddy that the poles sunk deep into it, and
+we could not carry the cargo ashore to lighten the boats. We succeeded,
+however, in getting through, after much labour, and the moment we
+crossed the bar, the water was greenish, and perfectly salt. The cape
+forming the eastern point of this entrance lies in latitude 70 degrees
+36 minutes N., longitude 127 degrees 35 minutes W. and proved to be the
+most northerly part of the main shore which we saw during the voyage. It
+is a few miles farther north than Return Reef of Captain Franklin, and
+is most probably, with the exception of the land near Icy Cape, since
+discovered by Captain Beechey, in the Blossom, the most northern point
+of the American Continent. It was called Cape Bathurst, in honour of the
+Right Honourable the Earl of Bathurst, and the islands lying off it were
+named after George Baillie, Esq., of the Colonial Office. I could not
+account in any other way for the comparative freshness of the sheet of
+water we had left, than by supposing that a sand-bank extended from Cape
+Dalhousie to Baillie's Islands, impeding the communication with the sea,
+and this notion was supported by a line of heavy ice which was seen both
+from Cape Bathurst and Cape Dalhousie, in the direction of the supposed
+bar, and apparently aground.
+
+Taking for granted that the accounts we received from the natives were
+(as our own observations led us to believe) correct, Esquimaux Lake is a
+very extensive and curious piece of water. The Indians say that it
+reaches to within four days' march of Fort Good Hope; and the Esquimaux
+informed us that it extends from Point Encounter to Cape Bathurst, thus
+ascribing to it an extent from north to south of more than one hundred
+and forty miles, and from east to west of one hundred and fifty. It is
+reported to be full of islands, to be every where brackish; and, besides
+its communication with the eastern branch of the Mackenzie, to receive
+two other large rivers. If a conjecture may be hazarded about the
+original formation of a lake which we had so few opportunities of
+examining, it seems probable that the alluvial matters brought down by
+the Mackenzie, and other rivers, have gradually formed a barrier of
+islands and shoals, which, by preventing the free access of the tide,
+enables the fresh water to maintain the predominance behind it. The
+action of the waves of the sea has a tendency to increase the height of
+the barrier, while the currents of the rivers and ebb-tide preserve the
+depth of the lake. A great formation of wood-coal will, I doubt not, be
+ultimately formed by the immense quantities of drift-timber annually
+deposited on the borders of Esquimaux Lake.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[8] The ridge-poles were omitted in the section by mistake.
+
+
+
+
+CONTINUATION OF THE PROCEEDINGS OF THE EASTERN DETACHMENT.
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+Double Cape Bathurst--Whales--Bituminous-shale Cliffs on Fire--Enter
+Franklin Bay--Heavy Gale--Peninsula of Cape Parry--Perforated
+Rock--Detention at Cape Lyon by Wind--Force of an Esquimaux Arrow--Meet
+with heavy Ice--Pass Union and Dolphin Straits--Double Cape Krusenstern,
+and enter George the Fourth's Coronation Gulph--Reach the Coppermine
+River--Remarks--Meteorological Table.
+
+
+As soon as we entered the clear green water off Cape Bathurst, we
+perceived a strong flood tide setting against us, and saw several white
+whales, and some black ones of a large size, but of a species unknown to
+Ooligbuck.[9] The natives term them _aggeewoerk_, which is the name
+given, by the Esquimaux of Hudson's Bay, to the black whales that
+frequent the Welcome. Many large masses of ice were floating about, but
+they were no impediment to the boats. The beach, from the time we left
+Esquimaux Lake, was bold, there being two or three fathoms water close
+to the shore. We hailed this change of circumstances with pleasure, for
+the shoals and islands skirting Esquimaux Lake had embarrassed us much,
+and the brackishness of the water, combined with the trending of the
+coast to the northward, and even westward, had excited in our minds an
+apprehension, that we might possibly be obliged to make a great circuit
+in search of a passage, out of that extraordinary piece of water, and
+that the opening, when found, might lie so far to the northward as to be
+obstructed by an icy sea. Fortunately our fears were groundless; and, to
+increase our joy, the coast-line from Cape Bathurst appeared to run in a
+straight direction for Coppermine River. There were many winter-houses
+built by the Esquimaux on Cape Bathurst. The cliffs facing the sea were
+still frozen, but the water trickling down their sides showed that they
+were thawing rapidly. We encamped on the beach in latitude 70 degrees
+32-1/2 minutes N., longitude 127 degrees 21 minutes W., having sailed
+that day thirty-seven miles. A plentiful supply of very fine sorrel
+(_oxyria reniformis_) being obtained from the banks, proved an agreeable
+addition to our supper.
+
+[Sidenote: Wednesday, 19th.] Embarking at four o'clock in the morning of
+the 19th, we rowed along the coast close to the beach, in from two to
+three fathoms water. We landed at noon to observe the latitude; and at
+four P.M. a thunder-storm coming on, induced us to encamp for the night.
+The day's voyage was thirty-two miles, and our encampment was situated
+in latitude 70 degrees 11 minutes N., longitude 126 degrees 15 minutes
+W., on a point which was named after Dr. Fitton, the distinguished
+President of the Geological Society. No land was visible to seaward, nor
+were any fields of ice or large floes seen, but we passed many smaller
+pieces and some masses, that, having stranded on the beach, were
+dissolving with great rapidity. A regular tide of six hours affecting
+the rate of our progress, an allowance was made for it in the reckoning.
+
+The coast consists of precipitous banks, similar in structure to the
+bituminous-shale cliffs at Whitby, in Yorkshire. They gradually increase
+in altitude from Cape Bathurst, and near our encampment their height
+exceeded two hundred and fifty feet. The shale was in a state of
+ignition in many places, and the hot sulphureous airs from the land were
+strongly contrasted with cold sea-breezes with which, in the morning,
+they alternated. The combustion had proceeded to a considerable extent
+on the point where we landed at noon. Much alum had formed, and the
+baked clays of yellow, brown, white, and red colours, caused the place
+to resemble a brick-field or a pottery. This point, which was named
+after Dr. Traill, of Liverpool, lies in latitude 70 degrees 19 minutes
+N. The interior of the country, as seen from the top of the cliffs,
+appeared to be nearly level, and to abound in small lakes. The soil was
+clayey, and from the recent thaw wet and soft. Tufts of the beautiful
+phlox, before mentioned, were scattered over these, otherwise unsightly
+wastes; and, notwithstanding the scanty vegetation, rein-deer were
+numerous. Some of the young ones, to whom man was doubtless a novel
+object, came trotting up to gratify their curiosity, and were suffered
+to depart unmolested. The sea here abounds in molluscae, and many black
+whales were seen; also king-ducks, eiders, snow-birds, hawks, and a
+large moth.
+
+[Sidenote: Thursday, 20th.] We embarked at half-past two on the morning
+of the 20th, and ran alongshore for two hours with a strong and
+favourable breeze, when shoals lying off the mouth of a pretty large
+river, led us six or seven miles from the coast. The breeze, which was
+off the land, freshened considerably, and raised a short breaking sea,
+through which we attempted to pull towards the shore, but the boats
+shipped much water, and made little head-way. We, therefore, set the
+sails again, and, fortunately fetched under a headland, and effected a
+landing. The whole of the pemmican in the Union, and some of that in the
+Dolphin, was wet on this occasion. In the morning we had passed two
+Esquimaux tents, pitched on the beach, but the inmates seeming to be
+asleep, we did not disturb them, being unwilling to lose the fair wind
+by any delay.
+
+Soon after landing the weather became very foggy, and the wind increased
+to a heavy gale. The cliffs at our encampment consisted of slate-clay,
+and bituminous alum-slate, and were six hundred feet high. The river,
+whose mouth we passed, ran close behind them, having a course parallel
+to the coast for some miles before it makes its way to the sea. It was
+named Wilmot Horton River, in honour of the Under Secretary of State for
+the Colonial Department. Its breadth is about three hundred yards, and
+it seems, from the quantity of drift-timber that was piled on the shoals
+at its mouth, to flow through a wooded country. The length of this day's
+voyage was twenty-four miles, and the position of our encampment was in
+latitude 69 degrees 50 minutes N., longitude 125 degrees 55 minutes W.
+At high-water, which took place at a quarter past four in the afternoon,
+the small slip of beach on which we had encamped was almost covered, and
+we had to pile the baggage on the shelving cliff. A very showy species
+of gromwell grew near our encampment, in company with the common
+sea-gromwell, (_lithospermum maritimum_.)
+
+[Sidenote: Friday, 21st.] On the 21st strong winds and foggy weather,
+with a considerable surf on the beach, detained us until after eight
+o'clock in the morning, when many large masses of ice coming in, took
+the ground near the shore, and smoothed the water sufficiently to enable
+us to embark. The fog was dense to seaward and over the land, but the
+height of the cliffs left a space of about a mile from the beach, over
+which it was carried by the violence of the wind.
+
+About two miles from our late encampment, the bituminous shale was again
+noticed to be on fire, giving out much smoke; and as we advanced, the
+cliffs became less precipitous, appearing as if they had fallen down
+from the consumption of the combustible strata. They gradually
+terminated in a green and sloping bank, whose summit, about two miles
+from the sea, rose to the height of about six hundred feet. For the
+information of the general reader, I may mention that the shale takes
+fire in consequence of its containing a considerable quantity of sulphur
+in a state of such minute division, that it very readily attracts oxygen
+from the atmosphere, and inflames. The combustion is rendered more
+lively by the presence of bitumen; and the sulphuric acid, which is one
+of its products, unites with the alumina of the shale to form, with the
+addition of a small quantity of potass, the triple salt, well known by
+the name of alum. The moistening of the strata by the sea-spray
+accelerates the process. In some alum-works, where nature has not been
+so favourable as in the cliffs of Cape Bathurst, a deficiency of the
+bituminous matter requisite to keep up the proper intensity of
+combustion, is supplied by brush-wood, which is strewed in alternate
+layers with shale that has been previously much divided by long exposure
+to the weather, and the whole is then moistened with salt-water. A
+further account of these cliffs is given in page xl. of the Appendix.
+
+In the forenoon we passed the mouths of two small rivers, which were
+designated after Sir Henry Jardine, Bart., King's Remembrancer in the
+Court of Exchequer for Scotland; and Dr. Burnett, Commissioner of the
+Victualling Board. A meridian observation was obtained in latitude 69
+degrees 38 minutes N.
+
+In the afternoon the wind blowing more on the shore, caused a tumbling
+sea. We sailed amongst much stranded ice, and, following the line of
+coast, were gradually led into a deep bay, whose east side, having a
+northerly direction, was formed by low land, and so much broken by
+numerous and extensive inlets, as to look more like a collection of
+islands than a part of the main land. We were now, reckoning by degrees
+of longitude, fully half way from Point Separation to the Coppermine
+River, and the coast from Cape Bathurst had been so exactly in the
+proper direction, as to excite high hopes of a short and prosperous
+voyage: it was, therefore, no pleasant sight to us to behold land
+running out at right angles to our course, and we were willing to
+believe that a passage existed betwixt it and the main. This opinion was
+supported by the direction of the high land, which had hitherto skirted
+the shore, continuing to be south-easterly, until lost to the sight at
+the distance of fifteen or twenty miles. We, therefore, endeavoured to
+find a passage, but the first opening that we came to, led into a
+circular basin of water, apparently land-locked, and about five miles in
+diameter. We halted at its entrance to cook our supper, and, during our
+stay, perceiving that the ebb-tide set out of it, we determined on
+searching for a passage elsewhere. This inlet is six fathoms deep at its
+entrance, and would prove an excellent harbour for a ship, only for the
+sand-banks, which skirt this part of the coast, and which render the
+passage into it too intricate for vessels having a greater draught of
+water than our boats. It was named Langton Harbour, after the agent for
+the Hudson's Bay Company at Liverpool.
+
+Leaving this harbour, and steering to the northward, we passed several
+inlets, into which the flood-tide set with a strong current. We could
+not see land towards their bottoms, but their mouths were shoal, and we
+felt convinced that there was no passage through them, because the
+flood-tide entered them from the westward. [Sidenote: Saturday, 22nd.]
+We, therefore, proceeded on our voyage without wasting time in examining
+them; and at two o'clock, on the morning of the 22nd, having come
+fifty-four miles, we encamped on a beach composed of small fragments of
+limestone, and strewed with sea-weed. This beach, which received the
+name of Point Stivens, separates an extensive sheet of salt-water from
+the sea, and is similar in character to the Chesil Beach, that connects
+the Isle of Portland to the shore. It varies in breadth from one hundred
+yards to a quarter of a mile, is several miles long, has a northern
+direction, and seems to have been formed by the sweep of the tide round
+the bay, meeting the ebb from the basins that intersects the peninsular
+promontory with which it is connected. There are several narrow breaches
+in it through which the tide flows. Anxious to discover the termination
+of this promontory which was leading us so much out of the direct course
+to the Coppermine, I went to the summit of a rising ground, about five
+miles distant, but the view was closed by some small hills, two or three
+miles off. The soil was clayey, and vegetation scanty.
+
+In taking wood to make a fire, from a large pile of drift-timber which
+had been collected by the Esquimaux, the nest of a snow-bird, containing
+four young, was discovered. The parent bird was at first scared away,
+but affection for its offspring at length gave it courage to approach
+them with food; and as it was not molested it soon became quite
+fearless, and fed them with the larvae of insects, whilst the party were
+seated at breakfast close by the nest.
+
+At nine o'clock, A.M., we embarked again, and running before a
+favourable breeze, came to a point consisting of cliffs of limestone,
+twenty feet high, with a small island of the same kind of rock at its
+extremity. Many large boulders of greenstone were seen here. After
+ascertaining the latitude by meridian observation to be 69 degrees 42
+minutes N., we continued our voyage along a bold shore, consisting of
+precipices of limestone, forty or fifty feet high, with three or four
+fathoms of water at the base. In the evening, having reached a
+projection which appeared to be the western pitch of the cape, we
+encamped in a bay near a remarkable perforated rock, having come
+twenty-six miles since leaving Point Stivens. In the course of the day's
+voyage we had to make our way through some pretty extensive streams of
+ice, composed of pieces which rose eight or ten feet above the water;
+and we saw a considerable quantity of what is termed sailing ice to
+seaward, being such as a ship could make her way through. I had now the
+gratification of naming the extensive bay we had been coasting for three
+days, after my friend and commanding officer; and to the several inlets
+on its eastern side I assigned the names of Wright, Cracroft, and
+Sellwood, in honour of his near relatives. A group of islands to the
+northward was named Booth Islands on the same account.
+
+In bestowing the name of Franklin on this remarkable bay, I paid an
+appropriate compliment to the officer, under whose orders and by whose
+arrangements the delineation of all that is known of the northern coast
+of the American Continent has been effected; with the exception of the
+parts in the vicinity of Icy Cape discovered by Captain Beechey. It
+would not be proper, nor is it my intention, to descant on the
+professional merits of my superior officer; but after having served
+under Captain Franklin for nearly seven years, in two successive voyages
+of discovery, I trust I may be allowed to say, that however high his
+brother officers may rate his courage and talents, either in the
+ordinary line of his professional duty, or in the field of discovery,
+the hold he acquires upon the affections of those under his command, by
+a continued series of the most conciliating attentions to their
+feelings, and an uniform and unremitting regard to their best interests,
+is not less conspicuous. I feel that the sentiments of my friends and
+companions, Captain Back and Lieutenant Kendall, are in unison with my
+own, when I affirm, that gratitude and attachment to our late commanding
+officer will animate our breasts to the latest period of our lives.
+After this feeble but sincere tribute of respect and regard, in which I
+hope I have not overstepped the proper bounds of a narrative, I hasten
+to resume the details of the voyage.
+
+The country in the neighbourhood of the encampment consisted entirely of
+limestone, mostly of the variety named dolomite, and, as is usual where
+that stone prevails, it was extremely barren. The cliffs and points of
+land present many caverns and perforated rocks, which have very strong
+resemblances to the windows and crypts of Gothic buildings. The common
+kittiwake breeds in great numbers on the rocky ledges in this quarter,
+and their young were already fledged. The temperature during the day was
+nearly stationary at 46 degrees, the wind south. The evening being very
+fine, the pemmican was taken out of the bags, which were scraped and
+dried; and our loss of provision, by the wetting it sustained in the
+gale of the 20th, proved to be less than we had expected.
+
+[Sidenote: Sunday, 23rd.] Embarking at four o'clock, A.M. of the 23d, we
+sailed with a favourable breeze for nine miles, betwixt Booth Islands
+and a shore presenting alternately projecting rocky shoals and narrow
+inlets. We then landed, and ascended a hill, about seven hundred feet
+high, to ascertain the direction of the coast, and had the satisfaction
+of finding that we had now reached the northern extremity of this
+remarkable promontory. It was named Cape Parry after the distinguished
+navigator whose skill and perseverance have created an era in the
+progress of northern discovery, and a letter addressed to him,
+containing information of our proceedings and of Captain Franklin's as
+far as was known to us, was deposited under a pile of stones which we
+erected on the summit of the hill. From this elevated situation, land
+was faintly seen bearing S.E. by S., about forty miles distant; and from
+thence round to Booth Islands there appeared an open sea, merely studded
+with a few streams of sailing ice, but no islands were seen in that
+direction. There are many well sheltered coves in the vicinity of Cape
+Parry and amongst Booth Islands, but the bottom is rocky, and numerous
+reefs render the navigation unsafe for a ship. The eastern side of Cape
+Parry exhibits a succession of limestone cliffs, similar to those which
+form its western shores; and as we continued our voyage, we passed many
+excavations ornamented by graceful slender pillars, and exhibiting so
+perfect a similarity to the pure Gothic arch, that had Nature made many
+such displays in the Old world, there would be but one opinion as to the
+origin of that style of architecture. A small island, on which we landed
+to cook breakfast, was named after the late Daniel Moore, Esq., of
+Lincoln's Inn. It was composed of a cellular limestone, containing many
+crystals of quartz. The whole party went in pursuit of a polar hare
+which was seen here, but, although it had no other shelter than the
+rocks, it contrived to escape from us all.
+
+In the evening we encamped on an island, which was named by Mr. Kendall
+after the Reverend Dr. Burrow of Epping. It is situated in latitude 69
+degrees 49 minutes N., longitude 123 degrees 33 minutes W. The length of
+the day's voyage was thirty-one miles. Fine weather, and a temperature
+of 52 degrees, entailed upon us a visit from the musquitoes. The sea
+water here is of a light blue colour and clear, the bottom being
+distinctly visible in five fathoms. Pieces of ice still adhered to the
+cliffs.
+
+[Sidenote: Monday, 24th.] We were detained in the morning of the 24th by
+a thick fog, which cleared up about eight o'clock; but the moon being
+then in distance, we remained until noon, that Mr. Kendall might take
+observations for lunars and latitude. These necessary operations being
+completed, a short voyage of nine miles brought us to an island on which
+we encamped, and which obtained from us the name of Clapperton, in
+honour of the undaunted explorer of central Africa. In our way we passed
+through several streams of ice, composed of pieces of considerable size,
+but all evidently in a state of rapid dissolution, under a bright sun;
+the water flowing from their surfaces in rivulets. Many black whales,
+and various kinds of seals, were seen this day. We saw no black whales
+farther to the eastward.
+
+From Clapperton Island we had a view of a ridge of hills, which, from
+their direction, appeared to be a continuation of those on the west side
+on Franklin Bay. The island itself, like the neighbouring coast, is
+composed of limestone, and many detached rocks skirt it, rising from
+water that is beautifully clear. When we landed there was a strong
+current setting to the eastward, round the end of the island, but it
+ceased at four P.M., the time of low water, and was probably produced by
+the ebb setting out of some of the inlets of Cape Parry. In the evening
+the ice made a noise so like the regular firing of half-minute guns, as
+to excite, at first, an idea that we heard the guns of a ship. The
+temperature at six o'clock in the evening was as high as 74 degrees in
+the shade.
+
+Clapperton Island lies in latitude 69 degrees 41-1/2 minutes N., and
+nearly in the longitude of Fort Franklin, from which it is distant
+three hundred and thirteen miles in a straight line; but the distance
+between the nearer part of the Great Bear Lake and the Arctic Sea here,
+does not much exceed one hundred and ninety miles.
+
+[Sidenote: Tuesday, 25th.] Taking advantage of a light breeze and very
+fine weather, we embarked at midnight, and crossed over to the east side
+of the bay, passing through some heavy streams of ice by rather
+intricate channels. At half past five in the morning of the 25th, we
+landed on a point of the main shore, and Mr. Kendall took observations
+for three sets of lunars. On re-embarking we proceeded a few miles
+further, when a heavy gale of wind suddenly springing up, we ran for
+shelter into a small creek at the extremity of a cape, which I named
+after the distinguished traveller Captain G.F. Lyon, R.N. The bay which
+lies betwixt it and Cape Parry, was called Darnley, in honour of the
+Earl of Darnley. The distance from Clapperton Island to Cape Lyon is
+fourteen miles.
+
+The country in the neighbourhood of Cape Lyon presents a surface varied
+by gently swelling eminences, covered with a grassy sward, and
+intersected by several narrow ridges of naked trap rocks, rising about
+one hundred and fifty feet above the general level. The trap ridges,
+when they reach the coast, form high cliffs, and the clay-slate and
+limestone lie in nearly horizontal strata beneath them. The view inland
+was terminated by the range of hills which we had seen at the bottom of
+Darnley Bay, to which the name of Melville Range was now given, in
+honour of the Right Honourable the Lord Viscount Melville.
+
+From the top of the highest trap-hill, near the extremity of the cape,
+we saw some heavy ice to seaward, but with enough of open water for the
+passage of a ship; and, occasionally, during our stay, there was an
+appearance of land to the north-westward, occupying two points of the
+compass; but we were uncertain whether it might not be a fog-bank
+hanging over a field of ice. If it was land, it could not be less than
+twenty-five or thirty miles distant, and must, from the portion of the
+horizon it occupied, be a large island. Upon the summit of the hill we
+erected a pile of stones, and deposited another letter for Captain
+Parry, containing a short account of our proceedings.
+
+A gale of wind detained us two days at Cape Lyon, during which Ooligbuck
+supplied us with rein-deer meat, and Mr. Kendall obtained several sets
+of lunars. The latitude of our encampment, by the mean of three meridian
+observations, was 69 degrees 46-1/2 minutes N.; and the longitude, by
+lunar distances, 122 degrees 51 minutes W. The temperature of the air,
+during the gale, was about 45 degrees, that of the water 35 degrees.
+During our stay at Cape Lyon the tides were regular, but the rise and
+fall were short of twenty inches. At midnight on the 26th of July, the
+sun's lower limb was observed to touch the horizon for the first time
+since our arrival on the coast. Some old winter houses were seen in our
+walks, but we perceived no indications of the Esquimaux having recently
+visited this quarter.
+
+[Sidenote: Thursday, 27th.] The gale moderated on the 27th, and at eight
+in the evening it was sufficiently abated to permit us to proceed on our
+voyage. After rowing about two miles, the horns of a deer were seen over
+a rock at the summit of a cliff, on which M'Leay, the coxswain of the
+Union, landed and killed it. This poor animal had been previously
+wounded by an Esquimaux arrow, which had broken its shoulder bone. The
+jagged bone-head of the arrow was buried in the flesh, and its copper
+point bent up where it had struck the bone. The wound was open, and
+seemed to have been inflicted at least a fortnight before, but the
+animal was still fat. The extremity of Cape Lyon lies about three miles
+north-east of the encampment we had left, and in its neighbourhood the
+cliffs form bold headlands and several small rocky islands. Soon after
+rounding it we came to a projecting point, consisting of cliffs of
+limestone, in which there was a remarkable cave, opening to the sea by
+an archway, fifty feet high and twenty wide. The walls of the cavern
+were two hundred feet high, and a large circular aperture in the roof
+gave free admission to the daylight. Mr. Kendall named this point after
+Mr. Pearce, a particular friend of his.
+
+The night was fine but cold, the temperature having fallen to 35 degrees
+soon after we started, and at midnight the sun sunk for nearly half an
+hour beneath the horizon. [Sidenote: Friday, 28th.] We passed much heavy
+stream-ice, and towards the morning a quantity of new, or, as the seamen
+term it, "bay ice," having formed on the surface on the sea, the boats
+were so much retarded that we put ashore at four o'clock of the 28th, to
+wait until the increasing heat of the day dissolved it. The point on
+which we landed was named after Admiral Sir Richard Godwin Keats,
+G.C.B., Governor of Greenwich Hospital, and lies in latitude 69 degrees
+49 minutes N. and longitude 122 degrees W., being about eighteen miles
+distant from our encampment on Cape Lyon. The rocks at Point Keats
+consist of flesh-coloured sandstone. The Melville range of hills
+approaches there within eight or ten miles of the sea, and the
+intervening country is traversed by ridges of greenstone. On the coast
+from Cape Lyon to Point Keats there is a line of large drift timber,
+evidently thrown up by the waves, about twelve feet perpendicular
+height, above the ordinary spring tides: a sufficient proof of the sea
+being nearly clear of ice at the time it was thrown up; for the presence
+of any considerable quantity, even of stream-ice, prevents the waves
+from rising high. After two hours halt, the bay-ice having dissolved we
+re-embarked.
+
+From Cape Lyon to Point Keats the coast runs nearly east; after quitting
+the latter we found it trending a little to the southward, and from a
+point, which was named in honour of John Deas Thompson, Esq.,
+Commissioner of His Majesty's Navy, it has nearly a south-east
+direction. We landed a little to the eastward of Point Deas Thompson, to
+take a meridian observation for latitude, in a small bay, bounded by
+cliffs of limestone, one hundred and forty feet high, in which the waves
+had sculptured some beautiful Gothic arches. From the summit of the
+cliffs we saw a dark appearance in the eastern horizon, but it was too
+indistinct to permit us to decide whether it was land or merely a
+fog-bank. To the eastward of these cliffs the coast decreased in height,
+and, at the distance of five miles, we passed a small river, which was
+named after Francis Palgrave, Esq. Near this river, on the summit of a
+cliff, which was twenty-five feet high, we noticed several large logs of
+drift timber, with some hummocks of gravel, that appeared to have been
+thrown up by the waves. A portion of the Melville Range lies within
+three miles of the shore there; and one of its most remarkable hills was
+named after my esteemed friend, William Jackson Hooker, LL.D., Regius
+Professor of Botany in the University of Glasgow; and another after
+Colonel Colby, of the Royal Engineers, one of the Members of the Board
+of Longitude. About four o'clock in the afternoon we came to a stream
+flowing from a lake, and as it was an excellent boat harbour, we entered
+it and encamped. It was named Roscoe, after the eloquent historian of
+the Medici; and a conical hill of the Melville Range, visible from its
+mouth, received the name of the venerable geographer Major Rennel.
+
+We passed this day through heavier and more crowded streams of ice than
+any we had previously seen on the voyage. The navigation amongst it was
+tedious and difficult, and just before we put ashore much motion was
+imparted to it by a fresh south-west wind. The temperature during the
+day varied from 35 degrees to 50 degrees. The mouth of Roscoe River lies
+in latitude 69 degrees 41 minutes N., longitude 121 degrees 2 minutes
+W., and is forty-eight miles distant from Cape Lyon.
+
+[Sidenote: Saturday, 29th.] We embarked on the 29th, with a fair wind;
+but the ice lay so close, that we could not venture to set more than a
+reefed foresail, and were ultimately obliged to lower the sail entirely,
+and to find a passage through ice with oars and poles. The pieces of ice
+were of sufficient magnitude to deserve the name of floes, and were
+sometimes several fathoms thick. They were all moving before the breeze,
+which caused them to arrange themselves in the form of streams parallel
+to the coast, and, consequently, left lanes of open water in the
+direction of our course. These lanes, however, were continually changing
+their form; and, on several occasions, when we had been tempted by the
+favourable appearance of a piece of open water to venture from the
+coast, we had great difficulty in extricating ourselves from the ice
+which closed around us. The thickness of the ice led me to conclude that
+the sea had not been long open in this quarter; and I observed that the
+vegetation was later on this part of the coast than on the western side
+of Cape Parry.
+
+For the first twelve miles after leaving our encampment, the coast was
+low and sandy; the Melville Range still forming the back-ground, at the
+distance of four or five miles from the sea. The low beaches were
+terminated by a rocky headland, which obtained from us the name of De
+Witt Clinton, as a testimony of our sense of the urbanity and love of
+science which had prompted his Excellency the Governor of the state of
+New York[10] to show so much attention to the members of the Expedition,
+in their passage through his government. Some miles beyond Point De Witt
+Clinton we came to a steep cliff, where the ice was so closely packed
+that we could not force a passage. The cargoes were, therefore, carried
+along the foot of the cliff, and the boats launched for a few yards over
+a piece of ice. In this operation, the shelving base of an iceberg,
+which had formed under the cliff, and still adhered to it, but which was
+undermined by the waves, gave way whilst several of the men were
+standing upon it; but, fortunately, it did not overset, and they
+received no injury, as it was large enough to support them in the water.
+At nine o'clock, A.M., we were stopped by the closeness of the ice, and
+put ashore until the tide or wind should produce some change.
+
+The tides, since leaving the Mackenzie, had never been observed to have
+a greater rise than eighteen inches: but in the neighbourhood of our
+encampment, the sea-wrack and lines of drift timber indicated a washing
+of the sea to the perpendicular height of twenty feet. The country in
+this vicinity consists of a bluish limestone, interstratified with
+slate-clay: and naked and rugged ridges of trap rocks rise in various
+places above the general level. The soil is composed of clay and
+limestone gravel. The latitude of our encampment was ascertained, by
+meridian observation, to be 69 degrees 29 minutes N.; its longitude was
+120 degrees 20 minutes W.; and its distance from Roscoe River was
+twenty-five miles.
+
+[Sidenote: Sunday, 30th.] A breeze of wind from the land having opened a
+passage two miles wide, we embarked at two o'clock in the morning of the
+30th, and ran seven miles under sail; when, having overtaken the ice
+which had passed in the night, we found it too closely packed to allow
+us to proceed. In making for the beach, the Union narrowly escaped being
+crushed by two large floes of ice, which came together with violence
+just as she was about to run betwixt them. The Dolphin had sailed
+through the same passage not two minutes before. From an eminence near
+our encampment, we had the unpleasant view of a sea covered, as far as
+the eye could reach, with ice, excepting a few lanes of open water far
+to seaward. The tide fell here seven inches in the morning, and eleven
+in the evening, although the north-west wind increased in the afternoon
+to a pretty strong gale. The greater fall of the water with that wind,
+showing that it found an exit to the eastward, relieved us from an
+apprehension, which we had begun to entertain, that we were entering a
+deep bay, which might be encumbered by the drift-ice for many days. Much
+ice drove past us in the course of the day, before a west-north-west
+wind, its progress being only slightly checked for a time by the flood
+tide. Recent footsteps of a small party of Esquimaux were seen on the
+beach. Our encampment was situated in latitude 69 degrees 24 minutes N.,
+and longitude 120 degrees 03 minutes W.
+
+[Sidenote: Monday, 31st.] Embarking on the 31st, at two o'clock in the
+morning, we succeeded in getting about six miles through the ice: when
+we were again obliged to put ashore at the mouth of a small river, which
+was named after James Buchanan, Esq., his Majesty's Consul at New York,
+whose friendly attention to the officers of the Expedition well entitled
+him to their gratitude. After waiting for a while the tide loosened the
+ice a little, and we made some progress by debarking upon the floes, and
+pushing them apart with poles, until a sufficient opening was made. This
+operation was tedious, and not devoid of hazard to the boats, arising
+from the rotatory motion frequently given to the floes, by the pressure
+of the body of the ice. At noon, an observation for latitude was
+obtained on a projecting point, which was named after William Tinney,
+Esq., of Lincoln's Inn. At three in the afternoon, our progress being
+again arrested by the compactness of the ice, we hauled the boats upon
+the beach, and M'Leay having killed a fat buck rein-deer, the party had
+an excellent supper after the fatigues of the day. The length of the
+day's voyage was twenty-two miles; the latitude of our encampment, 69
+degrees 17-1/2 minutes N., and its longitude 119 degrees 27 minutes W.
+The coast line in this quarter is lower, few of the cliffs exceeding
+forty feet in height, and there is a greater proportion of flat beach
+than occurs nearer Cape Lyon. The ground is strewed with gravel,
+apparently arising from a limestone conglomerate which exists there in
+considerable quantity. The Melville Range is within four or five miles
+of the shore at this place, and does not rise more than five hundred
+feet above the sea. Many small rivulets flow from the rising grounds
+into the sea, through wide gravelly beds, indicating that at times they
+swell into large torrents.
+
+[Sidenote: August 1st.] A light westerly wind having opened a narrow
+channel between the ice and the shore, we embarked early in the morning
+of the 1st of August, and, three miles from our encampment, came to a
+river, which discharged itself by various shallow mouths, separated by
+sand banks. Its westernmost and easternmost mouths were five miles
+apart; and the latter, which was the largest, was one hundred and fifty
+yards wide. Although the outlet of this river is so much barred up, it
+discharges a considerable volume of water, and probably has its sources
+in the hills which are visible from the northern shores of Great Bear
+Lake. It was named after John Wilson Croker, Esq., Secretary to the
+Admiralty. Further on we had a view of a high island, lying ten or
+twelve miles from the shore, which received the appellation of Sir
+George Clerk's Island. M'Leay, who was now acknowledged to be our best
+hunter, was sent in pursuit of a deer, which we saw from the boats, and
+being successful, we landed to cook our breakfast, after having rowed
+twenty miles in the course of the morning. An observation for latitude
+was obtained a mile further at a point which was named after Waller
+Clifton, Esq., Secretary to the Victualling Board, The coast here makes
+a turn to the southward, and about six miles further on, where it
+resumes its easterly direction, a river about one hundred yards wide
+flows into the sea, betwixt two sand hills. To this river Mr. Kendall
+gave the name of Inman, out of respect to the Reverend and Learned
+Professor of the Royal Naval College at Portsmouth. A conical hill,
+about ten miles distant, in a south-west direction, was named after the
+late President of the Royal Society, the highly distinguished Sir
+Humphry Davy, Baronet. This was the last part we saw of the Melville
+Chain. We encamped at half past seven in the evening, under a high cliff
+of limestone, having advanced during the day thirty-seven miles. The
+point on which we encamped, received from Mr. Kendall, the name of Wise,
+after Captain M.F. Wise, of the Royal Navy, under whose command he
+sailed in His Majesty's ship Spartan. It is situated in latitude 69
+degrees 03-1/2 minutes N., longitude 118 degrees W.
+
+The coast from Cape Clifton to Point Wise consists of limestone in
+horizontal layers, forming cliffs, which are separated from each other
+by intervening shelving beaches, and it is skirted to the distance of a
+quarter of a mile by rocky shoals, having sufficient water on them for
+our boats, but not enough to admit the heavy ice. This was the cause of
+our making greater progress than we had been led to expect from the
+appearance of the ice in the morning. The cliffs at Point Wise are two
+hundred feet high, and from their summits, the ice appeared closely
+packed, as far as the eye could reach; no lanes of open water being
+visible. It was, however, composed of pieces, and not a continuous
+field, for we could distinctly perceive that several of the hummocks it
+inclosed were in motion. This was the first time during the voyage that
+we saw ice so closely packed, as to appear impenetrable to a ship when
+impelled by a good breeze, but it is necessary to state that, even from
+a considerable height, we could not tell with certainty the state of the
+ice six miles off; scattered pieces at that distance assuming the
+appearance of a close pack. The weather this day was fine, the
+temperature varying from 43 degrees to 50 degrees.
+
+[Sidenote: Wednesday, 2d.] Soon after setting out on the 2d, the
+temperature, which had been about 40 degrees throughout the night, fell
+to 34 degrees, and a fog came on. The wind also freshening and putting
+the ice in motion, the boats received some heavy blows; but we continued
+to advance, though slowly, and with much caution. About ten miles from
+our encampment, we passed the mouth of a small river, which was named
+after Captain Hoppner, of the Royal Navy, second in command to Captain
+Parry, on his third voyage of discovery. Towards noon the fog cleared
+away, and a meridian observation was obtained in latitude 68 degrees 56
+minutes N. Three miles further on we arrived at the mouth of a wide but
+shallow river, which flowed over a rocky bottom, betwixt two sand hills,
+and joined the sea by several mouths, separated by shoals. To this river
+Mr. Kendall gave the name of his friend, Lieutenant Harding, of the
+Royal Navy. Five miles beyond this river, on the extremity of a rocky
+cape, the Esquimaux had constructed several store-houses, of drift
+timber, which were filled with dried deer-meat and seal-blubber; along
+with which, cooking kettles, and lamps made of potstone, copper-headed
+spears, and various other articles, were carefully laid up. The ashes of
+the recently extinguished fires showed that the natives had quitted this
+place only a few days, and we felt much pleasure in figuring to
+ourselves the surprise and joy with which they would behold, on their
+return, the iron utensils that we deposited in the store-houses for
+their use. The cape received the name of "Young," after the learned
+Secretary to the Board of Longitude.
+
+From Cape Young we had a view of the sea thickly covered with ice, of a
+greater thickness than any we had previously encountered; and we
+perceived that there was a deeply indented bay lying in our route, and
+so filled with ice, that our only method of passing it appeared to be by
+keeping close to the shore, although under the disadvantage of trebling
+the distance. The coast in this quarter is similar to that which we had
+passed on the two or three preceding days, and is formed of high
+limestone cliffs, with intervening shingly beaches; but the country is
+still more barren, the quantity of limestone debris almost excluding any
+soil. Flat limestone rocks, having only a few inches of water upon them,
+skirt the beach, and terminate like a wall in four or five fathoms
+water. The ice was closely packed against these rocks, and for five
+miles after passing Cape Young, we made a way for the boats only by the
+constant use of the hatchet and ice-chisel, and gladly encamped at six
+o'clock in the evening, after a day's voyage of thirty-one miles. A herd
+of twenty rein-deer were grazing on the beach, but our hunters were too
+much fatigued to go in pursuit of them. The encampment was situated in
+latitude 68 degrees 53 minutes N., and longitude 116 degrees 50 minutes
+W. The temperature varied in the course of the day from 34 degrees to 50
+degrees. We observed that the ice continued to dissolve, but not so
+rapidly as in the month of July, when the sun did not sink below the
+horizon.
+
+[Sidenote: Thursday, 3rd.] We resumed our operations on the morning of
+the 3d at the usual hour, and with great labour made a passage for the
+boats. At eleven o'clock we landed to refresh ourselves on a projecting
+point at the western entrance of a deep bay, having previously passed a
+river which was about one hundred yards wide, but very shallow. After
+breakfasting, and obtaining a meridian observation in latitude 68
+degrees 53 minutes N., we pushed off again, and for some time made very
+slow progress. The shores of the bay consisted of beds of limestone,
+which, shelving into the water, were covered with masses of ice, forced
+up by the pressure of the pack outside. We were, therefore, compelled to
+work our way in deeper water, and there the boats, which led by turns,
+were occasionally exposed to the hazard of being overset by pieces of
+buoyant ice, which frequently broke off from the bases of the floes. In
+the language of the whalers, the ice is said to _calf_, when masses are
+detached in this manner, and they are sometimes of sufficient magnitude
+in the Greenland seas to endanger large vessels. The Dolphin was, at one
+time, nearly crushed to pieces by the closing of two floes; but,
+fortunately, she had reached a small recess, just as they came in
+contact, and they recoiled sufficiently to leave a passage for her exit,
+after she had sustained the trifling damage of a few cracks in the upper
+planks. The rays of the sun, and the waves acting on the surface of the
+floes, had, by thawing them irregularly, formed lakes of fresh water of
+some extent upon their surface. When these pieces of water were of
+sufficient depth, we availed ourselves of them to make some progress in
+our voyage, and in this way we frequently sailed over a considerable
+thickness of ice.
+
+At four o'clock P.M. we had advanced five miles, when to our joy we
+found a lane of open water, which permitted us to cross to the other
+side of the bay, where we encamped in latitude 68 degrees 51-1/2 minutes
+N., and longitude 116 degrees 03 minutes W., having sailed in the course
+of the day eighteen miles and a half. The bay was named Stapylton in
+honour of Major-General the Honourable G.A.C. Stapylton, Chairman of the
+Victualling Board; and on ascending a rising ground we perceived that it
+communicates with a long, narrow lake. A few miles from the coast the
+land rises from three to five hundred feet above the sea, and presents
+many precipitous limestone cliffs, and chains of small lakes. The
+country is very barren, the only plant we gathered being the yellow
+poppy, (_papaver nudicaule_.) By our reckoning we were now nearly in the
+longitude of the mouth of the Coppermine River, but about seventy miles
+to the northward of it, we, therefore, entertained an opinion that we
+were coasting a narrow peninsula, and that we should soon have the
+pleasure of perceiving the coast take a southerly direction. It was,
+consequently, with some hopes of beholding the sea on the opposite side
+of the peninsula that I walked seven or eight miles to the eastward in
+the night, but I was disappointed. In my way I had occasion to wade
+through a small lake, when two birds, about the size of the _northern
+diver_, and apparently of that genus, swam, with bold and angry
+gestures, to within a few yards of me, evidently very impatient of any
+intruder on their domain. Their necks were of a beautiful pale yellow
+colour, their bodies black with white specks. I considered them to
+belong to a species not yet described, and regretted that, having left
+my gun at the tent, it was not in my power to procure one of them for a
+specimen.
+
+[Sidenote: Friday, 4th.] Embarking at three A.M. on the 4th, we found
+little difficulty in reaching the eastern cape of Stapylton Bay, the
+wind having formed a narrow channel between the ice and the shore in the
+night. The temperature was low, and in the morning some new ice was
+formed which we easily broke. We noticed several eider ducks breaking a
+way through the thin ice for their young ones with their wings, and in
+this operation they made greater progress than we did in the boats.
+
+On reaching the cape[11] which was named after Vice-Admiral Sir William
+Johnstone Hope, G.C.B., we descried another point about four or five
+leagues distant, bearing east-north-east, the intervening bay being
+filled with closely packed ice. We were now within twelve miles of Cape
+Young, after a laborious navigation of four times that distance, and the
+prospect of another bay, equally unpromising, was very vexatious; but
+our apprehensions were increased by the view of a continuous line of
+land, extending from north-north-west until it was hid behind the nearer
+cape, which bore east-north-east, for we feared that it might prove to
+be a continuation of the main shore. Our crews, though concerned at the
+delay that so much ice was likely to occasion, set about overcoming the
+obstacle with a hearty good will, and after an intricate and troublesome
+navigation of ten or twelve miles amongst the ice, we found the bottom
+of the bay more open, and were enabled to cross over to the eastern side
+where we encamped. This bay received the name of the eminent astronomer
+James South, Esq.
+
+Mr. Kendall having gone to ascertain from the higher ground the trending
+of the coast, returned in about two hours with the cheering intelligence
+that the land to the northward was unconnected with the main shore, and
+that he had seen the latter inclining to the south-east, with a much
+more open sea than we had lately been accustomed to. As soon as supper
+was over, I also set out to enjoy the gratifying prospect, and from the
+extremity of the cape on which we were encamped, and which was named in
+honour of the Right Honourable Lord Bexley, I beheld the northern land
+running from north-north-west till it was lost in the horizon on a north
+73 degrees east bearing. It seemed to be pretty high but not
+mountainous; and although broken towards the east, the principal portion
+of it appeared to be continuous. This island, by far the largest one
+that was seen, either in the present voyage or on Captain Franklin's
+former Expedition, was named after that most distinguished philosopher
+Dr. Hyde Wollaston. The main shore had a direction nearly parallel to
+Wollaston Land, its most distant point in sight, which I estimated to be
+fifteen miles off, bearing S. 61 degrees E. On the strait, separating
+the two shores, I bestowed the names of our excellent little boats, the
+Dolphin and Union. It varies in width from twelve to twenty miles, and
+to the eastward seemed to contain merely detached streams of ice, not
+likely to obstruct the progress of a vessel; but to the westward lay the
+closely packed ice, filling South's Bay, and extending to seaward. The
+ice did not, however, entirely close the strait, for I could discern
+lanes of open water towards Wollaston Land. The packed ice which we had
+seen lining the coast between Point Clifton and Cape Bexley, may be
+perhaps considered as an illustration of the remark made by Captain
+Parry, that the western sides of seas and inlets in those latitudes are
+more encumbered with ice than the opposite sides; and it is very
+probable that a ship might have found a passage by keeping along
+Wollaston Land, an opinion which the appearance of the ice as seen from
+Cape Bexley, tended to confirm. The latitude of our encampment was 68
+degrees 58 minutes N., and its longitude 115 degrees 47 minutes W.; it
+was within ten miles of our encampment of the preceding night, although
+we had travelled twenty-five miles in the course of the day.
+
+[Sidenote: Saturday, 5th.] The party embarked on the 5th, at the usual
+hour in the morning, with their spirits pleasantly excited by the
+intelligence of the favourable trending of the coast, communicated by
+Mr. Kendall, and after doubling Cape Bexley, proceeded under sail,
+before a west-north-west wind, with a rapidity to which they had lately
+been unaccustomed. The point of land which Cape Bexley terminates,
+consists entirely of horizontal beds of limestone, and is nowhere more
+than three hundred feet above the sea. On the west side, the water is
+two or three fathoms deep, close to the shore, and the land attains its
+greatest elevation by a steep rise from the beach. On the east side
+there are some precipitous cliffs, but the coast in general is skirted
+by shelving rocks. No soil was seen on the Cape, nor any appearance of
+vegetation, the ground being every where covered, to the depth of a
+foot, by fragments of limestone, which are detached by the frost from
+the solid strata lying beneath. We were much puzzled at first with the
+appearance of several parallel trenches, a foot deep, running for a
+great distance amongst the fragments, but on examination they were
+ascertained to originate in fissures of the subjacent strata. Much
+quartz being intermixed with the limestone of Cape Bexley, the fragments
+which covered the ground had, by the action of the weather, lost most of
+the softer calcareous matter, and were converted into a kind of rasp,
+very annoying to pedestrians, being capable of destroying a pair of
+stout English shoes in a walk of a few hours.
+
+At eleven o'clock we came to a pack of ice abutting against the shore,
+but while we halted to cook breakfast, the wind opened a way for us. In
+the course of the morning we passed many heavy streams of ice, separated
+by lanes of open water, which would have afforded an easy passage for a
+ship. Having obtained a meridian observation for latitude, we
+re-embarked, and pulled for five miles through an open channel, to Point
+Cockburn, on the opposite side of a bay, which appeared to be four or
+five miles deep, and to be quite filled with drift-ice. Many deer were
+seen grazing near this point, but we did not stop to send a hunter in
+pursuit of them. We afterwards crossed several other indentations of the
+coast, skirted by reefs of limestone and low islets, and encamped on
+Chantry Island, lying close to the main shore, in latitude 68 degrees 45
+minutes N., longitude 114 degrees 23 minutes W., having sailed
+thirty-nine miles in the course of the day. Two islands, lying opposite
+to our encampment, received the appellations of Manners Sutton and Sir
+Robert Liston's Islands. The degree of motion in the ice, which was
+drifting between these islands and the shore, indicated a stronger
+current of both flood and ebb than we had hitherto seen.
+
+[Sidenote: Sunday, 6th.] On the 6th, we commenced the day's voyage at
+three in the morning, but were compelled to put ashore soon afterwards
+by a stream of ice barring our way. At six o'clock, however, the flowing
+tide opened it sufficiently to enable us to push the boats along with
+poles, our progress being occasionally facilitated by the rocky reefs,
+which kept the heavier masses from pressing down upon us. Much of the
+ice lay aground, in nine fathoms, but none of it rose more than five or
+six feet above the surface of the water. We estimated the velocity of
+the flood tide, off some of the rocky points, at three miles an hour,
+and at such places we had much trouble in endeavouring to keep the boats
+clear of the drifting ice. The circular motion which the pieces
+occasionally acquired was particularly difficult to guard against, and
+had we not depended on the tongues of ice, which, lying deep under
+water, prevented the upper parts of the floes to which they belonged
+from coming in contact, we should scarcely have ventured amongst them.
+We did not, however, entirely escape, for the Dolphin was caught between
+a floe and a piece that lay aground, and fairly raised out of the water
+by the pressure, which broke one of her timbers and several of her
+planks. We put ashore on a small island to repair the damage, and during
+our stay Mr. Kendall had a meridian observation in latitude 68 degrees
+36-1/2 minutes N. Another island, lying about two miles from the main
+land, was distinguished by the name of Aylmer Bourke Lambert, Esq.,
+Vice-President of the Linnean Society. The sea water there was
+beautifully clear.
+
+At half-past one, the Dolphin being again rendered sea-worthy, we
+prosecuted our voyage until five P.M., when the flood-tide set with such
+velocity round a rocky point, and brought so much ice with it, that we
+considered it prudent to put ashore. The violent eddies in the currents
+there, and the sudden approach and collision of the large masses of ice,
+reminded us forcibly of the poet's description of Scylla and Charybdis.
+The length of the day's voyage was twenty-one miles, and our encampment
+was situated in latitude 68 degrees 32 minutes N., longitude 113 degrees
+53 minutes W. The temperature at nine P.M. was 60 degrees.
+
+Mr. Kendall and I took a walk of some miles along the shore, and were
+happy to observe the coast inclining to the southward, although no doubt
+now existed as to our accomplishing the voyage sufficiently early to
+allow us to cross the barren grounds, to the eastward of Great Bear
+Lake, before the cold weather set in. The flowering season for most of
+the plants on the coast was already past, but our route for the
+remainder of the distance to Bear Lake, inclining much to the southward,
+would naturally have the effect of prolonging to us the duration of the
+summer. A conspicuous hill, discovered in our walk, received the name of
+Mount Barrow, in honour of John Barrow, Esq., Secretary to the
+Admiralty; and two islands in the offing were named after Commanders
+Bayfield and Douglas, of the Royal Navy, to both of whom the officers of
+the Expedition were indebted for much assistance and personal kindness,
+in their progress through Canada. The interior of the country was flat,
+but the limestone formed cliffs on the shore two hundred feet high. From
+the form of the islands, I was led to believe that they consisted of
+trap rocks. Wollaston Land, as seen from this encampment, appeared to
+recede gradually from the main, and it sunk under the horizon, on a
+north-east bearing. By estimation, the most easterly part of it which we
+saw, is in latitude 68 degrees 45 minutes N., and longitude 113 degrees
+53 minutes W. The navigation of the Dolphin and Union Straits would be
+dangerous to ships, from the many sunken rocks which we observed near
+the southern shore.
+
+[Sidenote: Monday, 7th.] Embarking at two A.M. on the 7th, we crossed a
+deeply indented bay, which was named after Lieutenant-Colonel Pasley, of
+the Royal Engineers, to whose invention we owe the portable boat, named
+the Walnut-shell, which we carried out with us. On the east side of
+Pasley Cove there are some bold limestone cliffs, that form the
+extremity of a promontory, to which we gave the name of Cape
+Krusenstern, in honour of the distinguished Russian hydrographer. It
+lies in latitude 68 degrees 23 minutes N., longitude 113 degrees 45
+minutes W., and is the most eastern part of the main land which we
+coasted. From a cliff, two hundred feet high, two miles to the southward
+of Cape Krusenstern, we had a distinct view of the high land about
+Inman's Harbour, on the western side of Cape Barrow, which was the most
+easterly land seen on this voyage, and lies in longitude 111 degrees 20
+minutes W. The space between Capes Barrow and Krusenstern is crowded
+with islands.
+
+By entering George the Fourth's Coronation Gulf at Cape Krusenstern, we
+connected the discoveries of this voyage with those made by Captain
+Franklin on his former expedition, and had the honour of completing a
+portion of the north-west passage, for which the reward of five thousand
+pounds was established by his Majesty's Order in Council, but as it was
+not contemplated, in framing the Order, that the discovery should be
+made from west to east, and in vessels so small as the Dolphin and
+Union, we could not lay claim to the pecuniary reward.
+
+While the party were at breakfast I visited Mount Barrow, which is a
+steep hill about three hundred feet high, surrounded by a moat fifty or
+sixty feet wide and twenty deep, and having a flat summit bounded by
+precipices of limestone. Three banks, like causeways, afforded the means
+of crossing the moat, and the hill altogether formed a remarkably
+complete natural fortification. The Esquimaux had marked most of the
+prominent points in this quarter, by erecting piles of stones similar to
+the cairns built for land-marks by the shepherds in Scotland. These
+erections were occasionally noticed, after doubling Cape Parry, but they
+were more numerous here. The ice which we saw this day was in form of
+loose streams, and offered no material impediment. Several wreaths of
+snow lay at the base of the cliffs that had a northern exposure, being
+the remains of that which had accumulated in the winter.
+
+The latitude 68 degrees 13 minutes N. was observed at noon on a low
+point which projected from some higher lands. From this point, which was
+named after Edward H. Locker, Esq., Secretary to the Royal Hospital at
+Greenwich, we had a view of Cape Hearne, the form of which I thought I
+recognised from my recollections of it on the former voyage. We reached
+Cape Hearne in the evening, having in the afternoon skirted a low and
+indented coast; a bay immediately to the north of it was named after
+Captain Basil Hall, of the Royal Navy. Cape Hearne itself is a low
+point, not visible from the mouth of the Coppermine; but the high land
+behind it, when seen from a distance, appears like a steep promontory,
+and is that designated as Cape Hearne in Captain Franklin's chart of his
+former voyage. The latitude of this cape is 68 degrees 11 minutes N.,
+and its longitude 114 degrees 54 minutes W. The length of the day's
+voyage was forty miles. Many deer were seen here, and Ooligbuck killed a
+very fine one in the evening. After encamping I went a few miles into
+the interior, and found that the country was composed of limestone,
+which rose by a succession of terraces to the height of about three
+hundred feet above the sea. The heat of the day was considerable, the
+thermometer, when exposed to the rays of the sun, indicating 86 degrees,
+without the bulb being blackened, or any other means used to retain the
+heat.
+
+[Sidenote: Tuesday, 8th.] Embarking early on the eighth, and passing
+through several loose streams of ice, some pieces of which were
+twenty-four feet thick, we landed at nine o'clock on a bold cape to
+prepare breakfast. It is formed of columnar greenstone, reposing on
+slaty limestone, and rising precipitously from the sea to the height of
+three hundred and fifty feet. I named this well marked point Cape
+Kendall, after my highly esteemed friend and companion, and had the
+pleasure of pointing out to him, from its summit, the gap in the hills
+at Bloody Fall, through which the Coppermine River flows. Mr. Kendall
+having taken the necessary bearings and sketches for the completion of
+his chart, we descended the hill to announce to the men, that a short
+traverse would bring us to the mouth of the Coppermine River. As we were
+aware of the disappointment which often springs from the premature
+excitement of hope, we had not previously acquainted them with our near
+approach to the termination of our voyage; fearing that an unfavourable
+trending of coast, or an intervening body of ice, might protract it
+some days longer than we expected. The gratifying intelligence that we
+now conveyed to them, was, therefore, totally unexpected, and the
+pleasure they experienced found vent in heartfelt expressions of
+gratitude to the Divine Being, for his protection on the voyage. At noon
+the latitude of Cape Kendall was ascertained to be 67 degrees 58 minutes
+N., and its longitude by reckoning was 115 degrees 18 minutes W.
+
+Re-embarking, we steered for the mouth of the Coppermine River with the
+sails set to a fine breeze, plying the oars at the same time, and on
+rounding Cape Kendall, we opened a magnificent inlet, or bay, rendered
+very picturesque by the manner in which its lofty cliffs came
+successively in sight as we crossed its mouth. We distinguished it by
+the name of our mutual friend and companion Captain Back. One of
+Couper's Islands, on which we landed, consists of greenstone, rising
+from the water like steps of a stair; and from its summit we perceived
+that a low piece of land, which, on the former voyage, had been mistaken
+for an island, was, in fact, the extremity of Point Mackenzie, and that
+Richardson River was merely a ravine, now dry.[12] Having reached the
+mouth of the Coppermine River, we encamped within a hundred yards of the
+position of the tents on Captain Franklin's former Expedition. Some
+half-burnt wood, the remains of the fires then made, were still lying on
+the spot; and I also recognised the Esquimaux stage, which we visited on
+that occasion, but there were no skins nor utensils on it now.
+
+The completion of our sea voyage so early in the season was a subject of
+mutual congratulation to us all; and to Mr. Kendall and myself it was
+highly gratifying to behold our men still fresh and vigorous, and ready
+to commence the laborious march across the barren grounds, with the same
+spirit that they had shown in overcoming the obstacles which presented
+themselves to their progress by sea. We all felt that the comfort and
+ease with which the voyage had been performed, were greatly owing to the
+judicious and plentiful provision of stores and food which Captain
+Franklin had made for us; and gratitude for his care mingling with the
+pleasure excited by our success, and directing our thoughts more
+strongly to his party, the most ardent wishes were expressed that they
+might prove equally fortunate. The correctness of Mr. Kendall's
+reckoning was another source of pleasure. Having been deprived of the
+aid of chronometers, by the breaking of the two intended for the eastern
+detachment of the Expedition, during the intense winter cold, our only
+resource for correcting the dead reckoning was lunar observations, made
+as frequently as opportunities offered; yet when we approached the
+Coppermine River, Mr. Kendall's reckoning differed from the position of
+that place, ascertained on Captain Franklin's former Expedition, only
+twenty seconds of time, or about two miles and a half of distance, which
+is a very trifling difference when the length of the voyage and the
+other circumstances are taken into consideration. The distance between
+Point Separation and the mouth of the Coppermine River, by the route we
+pursued, is nine hundred and two geographical miles.
+
+In our progress along the coast no opportunity was omitted of noting the
+times of high-water, and a tide-table drawn up by Mr. Kendall, is given
+in pages 236, 237. We nowhere observed the rise of the tide to exceed
+twenty-two inches, and in some places it was not more than eight or
+nine; but the velocity of the flood and ebb was greater than could have
+been expected from so small a rise. Off the Alluvial Islands, lying
+between the outlets of the Mackenzie River and Esquimaux Lake, it was in
+the strength of the flood about a mile an hour; at Cape Bathurst it
+exceeded a mile and a half; and in the Dolphin and Union Straits it was
+fully three miles. The stream of the flood set every where from the
+eastward.
+
+The variation of the magnetic needle, which was forty-six degrees
+easterly at Point Separation, attained to 50 degrees at Refuge Cove, 53
+degrees at Point Maitland, and 56 degrees at Cape Parry; after which it
+gradually decreased as we went to the south-east; and at the mouth of
+the Coppermine, it was 48 degrees.
+
+We saw no ice that would have much impeded a ship, except between Sir
+George Clerk's Island and Cape Bexley, where it was heavy and closely
+packed. The appearance, however, of lanes of open water towards
+Wollaston Land, opposite to Cape Bexley, induced us to think that there
+might be a good passage for a ship on the outside of the ice, which
+lined the south shore, and which seems to have been packed into the
+indentations of the coast by the strong north-west winds that had
+prevailed for some days. A ship would find shelter amongst the islands
+of George the Fourth's Coronation Gulf, in Back's Inlet, in Darnley Bay,
+and amongst Booth's Islands, lying off Cape Parry; but the bottom, at
+the latter place, is rocky, and there are many sunken rocks along the
+whole of that coast. To the westward of Cape Parry, we saw no ship
+harbours, and the many sand-banks skirting the outlets of Esquimaux
+Lake would render it dangerous for a ship to approach the shore in that
+quarter. There is such an abundance of drift-timber on almost every part
+of the coast, that a sufficient supply of fuel for a ship might easily
+be collected, and wherever we landed on the main shore we found streams
+or small lakes of fresh water. Should the course of events ever
+introduce a steam-vessel into those seas, it may be important to know
+that in coasting the shores between Cape Bathurst and the Mackenzie,
+fire-wood sufficient for her daily consumption may be gathered, and that
+near the Babbage River, to the westward of the Mackenzie, a tertiary
+pitch-coal exists of excellent quality, which Captain Franklin describes
+as forming extensive beds.
+
+The height to which the drift-timber is thrown up on the shores at the
+western entrance of the Dolphin and Union Straits is, I think, an
+indication of an occasional great rise in the sea, which, as the tides
+are in comparison so insignificant, I can ascribe only to the north-west
+winds driving the waters of an open sea towards the funnel-shaped
+entrance of the straits. If this view is correct, Wollaston Land
+probably extends far to the north, and closely adjoins to Banks' Land,
+or is connected with it. Captain Parry found the strait between Melville
+Island and Banks' Land obstructed by ice, and this will naturally be
+generally the case, both there and in the Dolphin and Union Straits, if
+they form the principal openings through a range of extensive islands,
+which run north and south, and bound a large tract of sea, comparatively
+free from land. The heat of the summer in that quarter seems to be
+always or almost always sufficient to admit of the ice breaking up, but
+not powerful enough to dissolve it entirely. Hence the loose ice driven
+about by the winds, and carried to the lee-side of the wider expanses of
+sea, is firmly packed in the narrow straits and winding passages amongst
+the islands, from whence it can be dislodged only by a concurrence of
+very favourable circumstances, and where the waste by the solar rays is
+replaced by every breeze blowing from the open sea. The north-west winds
+being the strongest and most prevalent in the latter part of the summer,
+it is at the western end of a strait that the ice is most frequently and
+closely packed. Captain Parry remarks that "there was something peculiar
+about the south-west extremity of Melville Island, which made the icy
+sea there extremely unfavourable to navigation, and which seemed to bid
+defiance to all efforts to proceed farther to the westward in that
+parallel of latitude." The Dolphin and Union Straits hold out greater
+prospects of success for a similar attempt, not only from their more
+southern position, but from the strong current of flood and ebb which
+flows through them and keeps the ice in motion.
+
+We noticed on the coast about one hundred and seventy _phaenogamous_, or
+flowering plants, being one-fifth of the number of species which exist
+fifteen degrees of latitude farther to the southward. The grasses,
+bents, and rushes, constitute only one-fifth of the number of species on
+the coast, but the two former tribes actually cover more ground than all
+the rest of the vegetation. The cruciferous, or cress-like tribes afford
+one-seventh of the species, and the compound flowers are nearly as
+numerous. The _shrubby plants_ that reach the sea-coast are the common
+juniper, two species of willow, the dwarf Birch (_betula glandulosa_),
+the common alder, the hippophae, a gooseberry, the red bearberry
+(_arbutus uva ursi_), the Labrador tea plant, (_ledum palustre_,) the
+Lapland rose (_rhododendron lapponicum_,) the bog whortleberry
+(_vaccinium uliginosum_,) and the crow-berry (_empetrum nigrum_.) The
+kidney-leaved oxyria grows in great luxuriance there, and occasionally
+furnished us with an agreeable addition to our meals, as it resembles
+the garden sorrel in flavour, but is more juicy and tender. It is eaten
+by the natives, and must, as well as many of the cress-like plants,
+prove an excellent corrective of the gross, oily, rancid, and frequently
+putrid meat, on which they subsist. The small bulbs of the Alpine
+bistort (_polygonum viviparum_,) and the long, succulent, and sweet
+roots of many of the _astragaleae_, which grow on the sandy shores, are
+eatable; but we did not learn that the Esquimaux were acquainted with
+their use. A few clumps of white spruce-fir, with some straggling black
+spruces and canoe birches, grow at the distance of twenty or thirty
+miles from the sea, in sheltered situations, on the banks of rivers.
+
+_ABSTRACT of the Meteorological Register, kept by the Eastern
+Detachment, in their Voyage between the Mouths of the Mackenzie and
+Coppermine Rivers._
+
+     Temperature in the Shade.
+             Highest.      Direction of
+  Date.  Lowest.    Mean.  the Winds.    Weather and Remarks.
+  ----------------------------------------------------------------------
+  July
+     9   32    38    35    East; NEbE.   Fresh breezes. Clear sky with
+                                         fog over the ice.
+    10   45    57    51    ESE.          Strong breezes, clear weather.
+    11   42    51    43    East.         Strong breezes, clear sky, and
+                                         bright sun.
+    12   45    50    47    Do.           Ditto,          ditto.
+    13   46    57    52    East; SE.     Moderate breezes. Clear sky;
+                                         rain in the night.
+    14   42    42    42    West.         Heavy gales. Thick fog.
+    15   52    57    55    Nearly calm.  Very fine weather.
+    16   38    55    47    South.        Moderate breezes. Cloudy A.M.,
+                                         clear P.M.
+    17   50    62    54    West; North.  Fog A.M. When wind veered to
+                                         north cleared up. Temperature
+                                         of sea 55 degrees.
+    18   45    56    50    South; East.  Light airs A.M.; fresh breezes
+                                         P.M.; calm in the night.
+    19   44    54    49    East; West.   Fresh breezes and cloudy A.M.
+                                         Four P.M. West wind and foggy
+                                         weather.
+    20   46    50    48    NW., WNW.     Foggy; fresh breezes A.M.
+                                         Increased to a strong gale P.M.
+    21   42    48    46    WNW.; NW.     Fresh breezes and foggy A.M.
+                                         Fine and clear P.M.
+    22   45    47    46    South.        Fresh breezes A.M. Fine
+                                         weather P.M.
+    23   46    58    52    SW.           Moderate and cloudy. Many
+                                         Musquitoes.
+
+_Meteorological Register, &c.--Concluded._
+
+     Temperature in the Shade.
+             Highest.      Direction of
+  Date.  Lowest.    Mean.  the Winds.    Weather and Remarks.
+  ----------------------------------------------------------------------
+  July
+    24   50    76    66    West.         Moderate breezes. Foggy A.M.
+                                         Occasionally hazy P.M. Myriads
+                                         of Musquitoes.
+    25   45    66    55    South; NE.    Fine A.M. Strong gales and
+                                         partial fogs P.M.
+    26   35    47    41    NE.           Strong gales and clear.
+                                         Temperature of sea 35 deg.
+    27   35    45    40    ENE.          Moderate.
+    28   35    50    42    Calm; North.  Fine clear weather.
+    29   37    41    38    WNW.          Moderate breezes; foggy.
+    30   36    40    38    WNW.          Fog hanging over the ice;
+                                         clear inland; moderate breezes.
+    31   38    45    41    NW.           Moderate breezes; occasionally
+                                         hazy, fog over the ice.
+  Aug.
+     1   43    50    48    West.         Moderate breezes; hazy to seaward.
+     2   34    50    41    West; variable. Hazy and occasionally foggy.
+     3   38    43    40    NE.; East.    Light breezes and clear.
+     4   38    55    46    NE.; ESE.     Fine clear weather.
+     5   39    56    47    EbS.; WSW.    Do.               Moderate P.M.
+     6   42    56    47    South; variable. Do.
+     7   36    68    52    SSE.          Fine and very clear.
+                                         Temperature in the sun 86 deg.
+     8   44    60    52    North.        Do.
+         -----------------
+         41.45 51.92 46.48
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[9] The appearance of whales on the north coast, nearly midway between
+the nearest passages into Behring's and Barrow's Straits, and upwards of
+a thousand miles distant from either, affords subject for interesting
+speculation. It is known that they must come frequently to the surface
+to breathe, and the following questions naturally arise:--Are there at
+all seasons large spaces of open water in the Arctic Seas? or do these
+animals travel from the Atlantic or Pacific Oceans immediately on the
+breaking up of the ice off Cape Bathurst, and so early in the season as
+the middle of July; while the sea, to the eastward and westward, is
+still covered with ice? if the latter is the fact, it is a very curious
+part of the natural history of these animals. The Esquimaux informed us,
+that they are rarely seen when the ice lies close, and in accordance
+with this remark Captain Franklin saw few to the westward, and we also
+lost them as we approached the Coppermine River, and met with more ice.
+
+[10] Since the above passage was written, the world has had to mourn the
+loss of this distinguished statesman and philosopher.
+
+[11] Its latitude was ascertained by meridional observations to be 68
+degrees 58 minutes N.
+
+[12] Captain Franklin has since transferred the name of Richardson to
+the Bay between Point Mackenzie and the mouth of the Coppermine River.
+
+
+
+
+PROCEEDINGS OF THE EASTERN DETACHMENT CONCLUDED.
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+Ascend the Coppermine River--Abandon the Boats and Stores--Commence the
+Land Journey--Cross the Copper Mountains and Height of Land--Meet
+Indians who bring Provisions--Arrive at Great Bear Lake--Detained by
+want of a Boat--Send out Hunters--Arrival of Beaulieu--Collect the
+Party, and proceed to Fort Franklin--Conclusion.
+
+
+[Sidenote: Wednesday, 9th.] At four o'clock in the morning of the 9th of
+August, we left our encampment at the mouth of the Coppermine River, and
+proceeded in the boats to Bloody Fall, a distance of about eleven miles.
+The river was very low, and, in many places, there was scarcely water
+enough for our boats, which did not draw more than fourteen inches. On
+the preceding evening an Esquimaux dog had come to our encampment: his
+meagre aspect showed that he had fared badly, and hunger had rendered
+him so tame that he readily ate from our hands. After following us a
+considerable way up the river he left us; and we found, on our arrival
+at Bloody Fall, that a party of Esquimaux had just quitted that place;
+probably having discovered us from a distance.
+
+The Coppermine River, for forty miles above Bloody Fall, flows over an
+uneven stony bed, betwixt precipitous rocky walls, and is full of
+rapids. It is totally impracticable to ascend it in boats having a
+greater draught of water than a few inches; and even a small canoe must
+be frequently carried over land for considerable distances, to avoid the
+numerous obstacles which occur. It was necessary, therefore, that we
+should leave at this place the Dolphin and Union, and every thing that
+was not absolutely necessary for our journey. We determined, however, on
+taking with us Colonel Pasley's canvass boat, the Walnut-shell, in the
+hope of its occasionally relieving the men of their burdens for a short
+time, should any part of the river admit of its use. The afternoon
+was employed in arranging the loads for crossing the barren grounds. Twenty
+pounds of pemmican were allotted to each man, and the packages of
+maccaroni, arrow-root, portable-soup, chocolate, sugar, and tea, were
+equally distributed; together with the nautical almanack, astronomical
+tables, charts, two fishing nets, the collection of plants, specimens of
+rocks, and the portable boat, kettles, and hatchets; all of which, with
+the blankets, spare shoes, guns, and ammunition, made a load of about
+seventy-two pounds a man. Mr. Kendall undertook to carry the sextant and
+azimuth-compass; and I took the artificial horizon and a package of
+paper for drying plants, besides which we each carried a blanket, gun,
+and ammunition. As I feared that some of the party would over-rate their
+strength, and, through a desire of saving some favourite article, load
+themselves too heavily at the outset, which could not fail to prove very
+injurious to the regularity and speed of our march, I informed them,
+that, as soon as we were at a convenient distance from our present
+encampment, I should halt and examine all their bundles.
+
+The boats were drawn up on shore, out of the reach of any flood, and the
+remainder of the articles, that we had brought to give the Esquimaux,
+were put into boxes and placed in the tents, that they might be readily
+found by the first party of that nation that passed this way. They
+consisted of fish-hooks, lines, hatchets, knives, files, fire-steels,
+kettles, combs, awls, needles, thread, blue and red cloth, gartering,
+and beads, sufficient to serve a considerable number of Esquimaux for
+several years. The tents were securely pitched, and the Union Jack
+hoisted, partly for the purpose of attracting the attention of the
+natives, and partly to show them the mode of using the tents, which may
+prove to be very useful in their summer journeys. That no accident might
+occur from the natives finding any of our powder, all that we did not
+require to take with us was thrown into the river.
+
+[Sidenote: Thursday, 10th.] At six o'clock on the morning of the 10th,
+after the men had been down to the beach to take a last look of our
+little boats, we began our march to Bear Lake, intending to keep on the
+banks of the Coppermine as far as its bend at the Copper Mountains, and
+to strike from thence straight across the hills for the mouth of Dease's
+River, which falls into the north-east arm of Bear Lake. We set off at a
+pretty quick pace, and the first hill, after leaving our encampment,
+being steep, tried the wind of most of the party, so that the few who
+had loaded themselves with superfluous articles, were glad to throw
+them away during a short halt on its summit, and when I examined their
+packages, at the next resting-place, I found little to reject. A path
+beaten by the rein-deer and the Esquimaux conducted us down the southern
+face of this range of hill to the plain beneath, when we halted to
+prepare breakfast, and to make some further arrangements, as several of
+the party, being unaccustomed to carry loads, advanced slowly. After
+breakfast the portable boat was put together, and the baggage being
+placed in it, we endeavoured to tow it up the river, but found this to
+be impracticable, owing to the badness of the towing-path, the numerous
+high cliffs which bound the stream, and the form of the boat, which
+permitted the water in strong rapids to flow over its bows. This boat
+was admirably adapted for the purpose for which it was constructed by
+Colonel Pasley, that of crossing a river or lake, as we had ascertained
+by previous trials; but we knew that no river, except such as we could
+ford, could occur on our route to Bear Lake; and I, therefore,
+determined on leaving it, together with half a bag of arrow-root, and
+five muskets, by which the loads were reduced about fifteen pounds a
+man. The march was then resumed with alacrity, and, notwithstanding that
+the day was hot and sultry, we proceeded with greater speed and
+satisfaction. Mr. Kendall walked at the head of the line at a steady
+pace, halting for five minutes every half hour to rest the party, and
+prevent straggling. At five we encamped, having marched about six miles
+in a direct line. The route throughout the journey was regulated, from
+time to time, by our taking the bearing of a distant hill, or other
+conspicuous object, by the compass, and walking directly for it; and the
+distance was estimated by noting the time and guessing the rate of our
+march. Of this, which was in general a little more than two miles an
+hour, previous practice had enabled us to judge so correctly, that the
+estimate seldom erred more than a mile a day. The error, whatever it
+was, was always corrected at noon, when the latitude was observed, and
+the course and distance were then calculated anew.
+
+During the day several small herds of rein-deer were seen, but I would
+not permit any one to leave the line of march to go in pursuit of them;
+after encamping, however, M'Leay killed a fine buck. A solitary stunted
+spruce-fir grew near our encampment, and the most northerly clump on the
+river was seen about two miles to the southward. When supper was over
+and a watch set, we stretched ourselves on the ground, and soon sunk
+into sound sleep. The temperature at sunset was 62 degrees.
+
+[Sidenote: Friday, 11th.] Setting out on the 11th, at six in the
+morning, we halted to breakfast at nine, and Mr. Kendall took an
+observation at noon, in latitude 67 degrees 33 minutes N. We encamped at
+half past five P.M. amongst some small pines. The day was fine, and a
+fresh easterly wind rendered it agreeable for walking; but the men were
+much annoyed by their burdens, and appeared jaded when we halted for the
+night. Their loads could not have exceeded fifty-two pounds each, but
+the frequent ascent and descent in crossing the small hills that lay in
+our way, and the occasional sponginess of the ground, and insecurity of
+footing, rendered marching much more laborious than it would have been
+on a hard English highway. The direct distance travelled this day was
+about twelve miles. We saw many gray Arctic marmots (_Arctomys Parryi_,)
+sporting near their burrows, and a little terrier dog, which had been
+our fellow voyager from England, showed much dexterity in cutting off
+their retreat, and succeeded in catching several of them. The dog's long
+confinement in the boat rendered the exercise he now took very
+fatiguing, and when we halted for the night he was the most tired of the
+party. Many young rein-deer were also seen, and after we encamped
+Ooligbuck killed one. The temperature in the evening was 50 degrees, but
+the night was cold.
+
+[Sidenote: Saturday, 12th.] Our march on the 12th was rendered pleasant
+by a cool northerly breeze, and the men being now familiar with their
+loads, which had also suffered some diminution by the preceding
+evening's repast, we made a more rapid progress. The length of the march
+was seventeen miles, being, exclusive of the half hourly halts and the
+time occupied by breakfast, at the rate of two miles and a half an hour.
+In the course of the day we crossed several ridges of the Copper
+Mountains to avoid a bend of the river. The Whisky-John (_corvus
+Canadensis_) visited our encampment in the evening for the first time
+since we left the Mackenzie.
+
+[Sidenote: Sunday, 13th.] On the 13th, commencing the day's march at
+five A.M., we walked along the banks of the river until nine, when we
+halted to prepare breakfast, at the place where Captain Franklin
+encamped on the 11th of July 1821. After breakfast we forded the small
+stream, on the banks of which several pieces of native copper and some
+copper ore were found on the former Expedition. A quantity of ice formed
+by snow, consolidated by the oozing of the stream, still remained in the
+bed of this rivulet.
+
+At noon the latitude was observed in 67 degrees 13 minutes N., and as we
+were now on the spot where the Coppermine makes the nearest approach to
+the north-east arm of Bear Lake, we decided on striking directly from
+this place to the mouth of Dease's River, and the course and distance
+were accordingly calculated. Our route lay over rocks of old red
+sandstone, clay-slate, and greenstone disposed in ridges, which had a
+direction from E.S.E. to W.N.W. The sides of many of the ridges were
+precipitous, and their uneven and stony summits were two hundred or two
+hundred and fifty feet high. The valleys were generally swampy and
+abounded in small lakes. A few scattered and thin clumps of pines
+existed in the more sheltered spots, but the country was, in general,
+naked. Several burrows of wolves were seen in the mountains. We crossed
+two small streams in the course of the day, flowing towards the
+Coppermine, and encamped at four P.M. on the banks of a small lake.
+Sand-flies, the first we had seen this season, were numerous and
+troublesome in the evening, the temperature then being 53 degrees.
+
+[Sidenote: Monday, 14th.] Setting out at five A.M. on the 14th, we
+halted to breakfast at nine, after a pretty brisk walk through a country
+entirely destitute of wood. Some partridges, which were so tame as to be
+easily killed with stones, furnished us with an agreeable variety of
+diet. A meridional observation was obtained in latitude 67 degrees 10
+minutes N. In endeavouring to get round the south end of a small chain
+of lakes, which lay in our route, we were stopped by a narrow stream
+about six feet deep, flowing from them towards the Coppermine River;
+but, on sounding the lake a little way from the head of the stream, we
+found that it was fordable without difficulty. We marched to a late hour
+in search of fuel to cook some deer's meat, which M'Leay had procured in
+the course of the day, and were fortunate in at length finding a wooded
+valley on the banks of a small stream, that fell into the chain of lakes
+which we had crossed. It is probably this river, and chain of lakes,
+that the Indians ascend from the Coppermine River in canoes to the
+height of land which they cross on their route to Bear Lake.[13] The
+ridges of hill over which we marched on this day consisted of spotted
+sandstone and porphyry. The temperature in the evening was 47 degrees,
+and the night was frosty. Two white wolves took a survey of our
+bivouack, but did not venture within gun-shot.
+
+[Sidenote: Tuesday, 15th.] Starting on the 15th at five o'clock, we
+marched until eight, when we halted to breakfast. The air felt very
+cold, although the thermometer was not below 39 degrees. In the early
+part of the day we crossed some ridges of sandstone, and towards noon we
+travelled over granite, similar to that which abounds in the
+neighbourhood of Fort Enterprize. Much wood was seen in a valley far to
+the westward, but the hills over which our course lay were quite naked.
+The bog whortleberry (_vaccinium uliginosum_,) however, grew abundantly
+on these hills, and as its fruit was now in the highest perfection, the
+men at every resting-place threw themselves down, and indulged freely,
+without sustaining any injury.
+
+In the afternoon our route was over nearly horizontal strata of spotted
+sandstone and conglomerate. About three o'clock we had gained the summit
+of the height of land separating the Coppermine River from Great Bear
+Lake, and obtained from it an extensive view of a lower and well wooded
+country; but all the grounds in our immediate neighbourhood consisted of
+barren sandstone strata. After looking in vain for a comfortable
+sleeping-place, as the night threatened to be stormy, and a moist and
+cold fog was setting in, we were obliged to content ourselves with
+building a rude shelter with blocks of sandstone; and to use for firing
+a black lichen (_cornicularia divergens_,) which, fortunately, grew
+plentifully in the crevices of the rock. The distance walked this day
+was about fourteen miles. We had no meridional observations, because the
+sky was obscured.
+
+We had supped, and most of the men had retired to rest, when Mr.
+Kendall, in sweeping the horizon with his telescope, saw three Indians
+coming down a hill, and directing their steps towards us. More moss was
+immediately thrown on the fire, and the St. George's ensign hoisted on
+the end of a musquet, to point out to the comers who we were; but as
+they hid the youngest of their number in a ravine, at the foot of the
+hill, and the two seniors seemed to approach slowly and with suspicion,
+Mr. Kendall and I went unarmed to meet them. They came up, one with his
+bow and arrows in his hand, and the other with his gun cocked; but as
+soon as they recognised our dress, which was the same that I had worn in
+our voyage round Bear Lake, the preceding autumn, when I had seen most
+of the Hare Indian tribe, they shouted in an ecstasy of joy, shook hands
+most cordially with us, and called loudly for the young lad to come up.
+The meeting was no less gratifying to us: these people had brought furs
+and provisions to Fort Franklin in the winter, and they now seemed to be
+friends come to rejoice with us on the termination of our voyage. We
+learned from them, partly by signs, and partly from the little we
+understood of their language, that by the advice of It-chinnah, the
+Hare Indian Chief, they had been hunting for some time in this
+neighbourhood, in the hopes of falling in with us on our way from the
+sea; that they would give us all the provision they had collected,
+accompany us to Bear Lake, and warn all the Indians in the neighbourhood
+of our arrival. They appeared much surprised, when, placing the compass
+on the ground, we showed them the exact bearing of the mouth of Dease's
+River; and they were not able to comprehend how we knew the way in a
+quarter through which we had never travelled. They said, however, that
+they would conduct us in the morning to the Indian portage road, where
+we would have better walking than by keeping the direct route across the
+hills. We had reserved but little that we could present to these kind
+people, though every one contrived to muster some small article for
+them, which they gratefully received. They were dressed, after the
+manner of their tribe, with fillets of deer-skin round their heads and
+wrists, and carried in their hands a pair of deer's horns and a few
+willow twigs, which are all serviceable in enabling them to approach the
+rein-deer, in the way described by Mr. Wentzel in the Narrative of
+Captain Franklin's former voyage.
+
+Ooligbuck, who had gone out to hunt, returned in the night. He met an
+Indian who had just killed a deer with an arrow, and had tried to
+persuade him to come to us; but neither of them understood the other's
+language, and the Indian, probably terrified by the sight of an
+Esquimaux armed with a gun, presented him with a piece of the deer's
+meat, and then made off in an opposite direction. Many of the Hare
+Indians abstain from visiting the forts for several years, and it is
+possible that this one had not heard of us, or at least had not received
+a distinct account of our intention of returning his way, and of our
+having an Esquimaux with us. Our Indian friends told us that they did
+not know that any of their countrymen were hunting in the direction
+which Ooligbuck pointed out.
+
+[Sidenote: Wednesday, 16th.] On the 16th a thick fog prevented us from
+quitting our bivouack until seven o'clock, when the Indians led us down
+the hill about a mile to the portage road, and we resumed the precise
+line of march that we had followed from the Coppermine River, (S. 63
+degrees W.) Such of our Highlandmen as had been in the service of the
+Hudson's Bay Company, and, consequently knew from experience the
+difficulty of travelling through a country without guides, could not
+help expressing their surprise at the justness of the course we had
+followed. We had not concealed from them, that from want of
+observations, or from the difficulty of estimating the distance walked,
+we might err a mile or two in our reckoning, so that they were prepared,
+on our reaching Bear Lake, to turn a little to the right or left in
+search of the river; but they had scarcely hoped to have reached that
+point without having to perform a single mile of unnecessary walking.
+
+The portage-road conducted us in a short time to the principal branch of
+Dease's River, on the banks of which, at the distance of six miles from
+our encampment, we halted to breakfast. The stream there receives
+another branch, but it is fordable without difficulty, being nowhere
+much above knee-deep. A little way further to the westward, however, it
+is less rapid, and forms frequent lake-like expansions. Our march from
+last night's encampment was over sandstone rocks, and down a pretty
+rapid ascent. The ground was barren in the extreme, except at our
+breakfasting place, where there was a convenient clump of wood and a
+profusion of whortleberries. Having finished this meal, we resumed the
+march, with the intention of halting a few miles further on, that our
+Indian friends might rejoin us with their provision, which lay in store
+to the southward of our route. We therefore encamped at half past two
+o'clock in a pleasant pine clump, and immediately set fire to a tree to
+apprize the Indians of our situation. They arrived at sunset, heavily
+laden with tongues, fat, and half-dried meat; and M'Leay also killed two
+deer after we encamped, so that we revelled in abundance. The length of
+the day's journey was fourteen miles, and the estimated distance of the
+mouth of Dease's River twenty miles.
+
+[Sidenote: Thursday, 17th.] The provisions obtained from the Indians
+being distributed amongst the men, we commenced the march at five
+o'clock in the morning, and walked, until the usual breakfasting hour,
+over a piece of fine level ground. A range of sandstone hills rose on
+our left, and the river ran nearly parallel to our course on the right,
+but we walked at the distance of one or two miles from it, to avoid its
+windings and the swampy grounds on its borders. Pine-trees grow only in
+small detached clumps on its south bank; but the uneven valley, which we
+saw spreading for ten or twelve miles to the northward, was well wooded.
+The Needagazza Hills, which lie on the north shore of the Bear Lake,
+closed the view to the westward. Several columns of smoke were seen to
+the westward, and one to the southward; the latter, the Indians informed
+us, was made by It-chinnah. We breakfasted on the banks of a small
+stream, where the whortleberry bushes were loaded with fruit of a finer
+flavour than any we had previously met with. At noon we crossed a hill,
+on the summit of which Mr. Kendall had an observation, that placed it in
+66 degrees 58 minutes of north latitude. Our route afterwards led us
+across several deep ravines close to the river, which there runs by the
+base of some lofty cliffs, of light red sandstone, and we pushed on in
+great spirits, and at a rapid pace, with the intention of reaching Bear
+Lake that evening; but the Indians complaining that they were unable to
+keep up with us, we halted at three P.M. Several trees were then set on
+fire to apprize It-chinnah and his party of our approach; and, after
+supper, I went to the summit of a hill, and readily recognised the
+islands in Dease's Bay of Bear Lake, from their peculiar form and
+disposition.
+
+[Sidenote: Friday, 18th.] Setting out at three A.M. on the 18th, the
+Indians conducted us over a rising ground, covered with white spruces,
+to a bay of the Great Bear Lake, about a mile from Dease's River. After
+breakfast, our stock of provisions being examined, it was found that we
+had two days' allowance remaining. A party was next sent to Dease's
+River to make a raft for setting the two nets, and they were also
+directed to look for traces of Beaulieu and his party. He had been
+ordered by Captain Franklin to leave the fort on the 6th of August, and
+to make the best of his way to the rendezvous, where he was to remain to
+the 20th of September. The length of his voyage, allowing for two or
+three days detention by adverse winds, was not expected to exceed seven
+or eight days, nor to be protracted, under any circumstances, beyond ten
+or twelve. We had, therefore, reason to suppose that he might have
+reached Dease's River by this time. He was fully aware of the
+inconvenience that we might experience, should we reach the appointed
+spot and find no provisions there; and to stimulate him to make as much
+haste as possible, I had promised him a fowling-piece, on condition that
+we found him waiting for us on our arrival. Huts were made to sleep in,
+and several trees set on fire to point out our position to the Indians
+in the neighbourhood.
+
+[Sidenote: Saturday, 19th.] The mossy ground near our encampment caught
+fire in the night, and the flames spread so rapidly that we were obliged
+on the morning of the 19th, to move to the banks of the river, where we
+made new huts. Owing to the loss of a hatchet in driving the stakes,
+only one net had been set the preceding evening, and in it we took eight
+carp. The raft being made of green wood was not sufficiently buoyant,
+and a new one was, therefore, constructed this day of dried timber. The
+carp afforded a breakfast for the party, and supper consumed all our
+deer's meat, together with a portion of the remainder of the pemmican.
+The young Indian went off in the afternoon in quest of It-chinnah's
+party. A strong easterly wind blowing all this day, was adverse to
+Beaulieu's advance.
+
+[Sidenote: Sunday, 20th.] On Sunday, the 20th, prayers were read, and
+thanks returned to the Almighty for his gracious protection and the
+success which had attended our voyage. The nets yielding seventeen pike,
+carp, and white fish, provided an ample breakfast for the party, and
+before supper time the young Indian returned with two of his countrymen,
+bringing meat sufficient for three days consumption. Part of it was the
+flesh of the musk-ox, which was fat and juicy, but had a high musky
+flavour. We had seen none of these animals on our march from the
+Coppermine River, although we frequently noticed their foot marks.
+Frequent squalls during the day brought much rain, but the huts which we
+had made of pine branches kept us dry. We could not but consider
+ourselves fortunate in having had no rain in the journey overland, when
+there was not sufficient wood to afford us the shelter we now
+experienced.
+
+[Sidenote: Monday, 21st.] On the 21st the nets yielded sixteen fish,
+which were enough for breakfast. Mr. Kendall crossed the river on a
+raft, and went to the top of a hill to the westward to look for
+Beaulieu; and, by way of keeping the men employed, I sent M'Leay and
+some of our best hunters in quest of deer, and set the carpenter and the
+remainder of the party to make oars. Our Indian friends left us to warn
+some more of their countrymen, of our situation, and five others arrived
+in the evening, bringing meat and large basketfuls of whortleberries.
+M'Leay and the other hunters returned without having seen any deer.
+
+[Sidenote: Tuesday, 22nd.] To secure a stock of provision for our
+journey to the fort, in the event of any accident preventing the arrival
+of the boat, I resolved to send half the party on a distant excursion,
+and on the 22nd, Gillet, M'Leay, M'Duffie, M'Lellan, and Ooligbuck, were
+despatched to hunt in the neighbourhood of Limestone Point, on the north
+shore of the lake, with orders not to extend their excursions beyond
+Haldanes River, which falls into the lake about sixty miles to the
+westward of Dease River. If they went on to Haldanes River, they were to
+set up a mark on Limestone Point, that I might know whether they had
+passed or not. They took with them a small supply of provision, and an
+Indian guide. In the evening two Indians came with more meat. They were
+desirous of being paid with ammunition, which they much needed, but we
+had none to give them, and they cheerfully took our notes of hand for
+payment, on their arrival at the fort in the winter.
+
+[Sidenote: Wednesday, 23rd.] The 23d day of August having passed away
+like the four preceding ones, in anxious expectation of Beaulieu's
+arrival, I began to apprehend that some serious accident had happened to
+his boat, and to fear that we should be obliged to walk round the Lake
+to the Fort. The distance exceeding three hundred miles, we could not
+expect to accomplish it in less than three weeks, and not without much
+fatigue and suffering, for the men's stock of shoes was nearly
+exhausted, their clothing ill adapted for the frosty nights that occur
+in September, and deer do not frequent, at this season, much of the
+country through which our route lay. I naturally looked forward to such
+a march with uneasiness, yet, as the season was drawing to a close, I
+determined not to delay setting out beyond the 28th, when I intended to
+engage some Indians as guides, and to take with us as much dried meat as
+we could carry. The wind blew from the south-west this day, and we were
+much tormented by sand-flies.
+
+[Sidenote: Thursday, 24th.] On the evening of the 24th, as we were about
+to retire to bed, having given up all hopes of Beaulieu's arrival that
+day, we heard people talking in the direction of the mouth of the river,
+and soon afterwards saw a boat and several canoes. A musket being fired
+to show them our position, they steered for the encampment, and landed
+opposite to the huts. They proved to be Beaulieu's party, consisting of
+four Canadians, four Chipewyan hunters, and ten Dog-Ribs, which, with
+their wives and children, amounted to about thirty in all. We learnt
+from Beaulieu, that he had been sent off from the Fort by Mr. Dease, on
+the 6th, with strict injunctions to proceed to the rendezvous with his
+utmost speed; but he pleaded the badness of the weather and the adverse
+winds as the cause of his delay. He had not seen the five men I sent off
+on the 22d, though he had noticed a fire in a bay near Limestone Point,
+which I had no doubt was made by them; I therefore embarked directly to
+rejoin them at that place, accompanied by Mr. Kendall and the remainder
+of our party, two of the Canadians, and an Indian named the Babillard;
+directing Beaulieu to stay at the huts until he heard from us again. We
+rowed all night, and soon after day-break reached the spot where the
+fire had been made, but found no marks to indicate which way our men had
+gone: neither was there any mark at Limestone Point; I therefore caused
+a large fire to be made at the latter place, and remained there the
+whole day.
+
+[Sidenote: Saturday, 26th.] Our people not appearing on the 26th, I
+returned in the boat to Dease River, leaving Mr. Kendall and the
+Babillard at Limestone Point. Beaulieu had seen nothing of the
+absentees, and it was therefore evident that they had gone on to Haldane
+River, whither I resolved to proceed in search of them; but that they
+might not suffer from want of food, if by any chance we missed them, I
+directed Beaulieu's party to remain where they were, until I sent them
+permission to depart by two Canadians, whom I took with me on purpose in
+a small canoe. Mr. Dease had directed Beaulieu to go to M'Tavish Bay to
+hunt deer, and dry meat for the fort, as soon as we arrived; and as the
+boat was well adapted for carrying dried provision, I now exchanged it
+with his north canoe.
+
+[Sidenote: Sunday, 27th.] We rejoined Mr. Kendall at Limestone Point at
+day-break on the morning of the 27th, and afterwards paddled along the
+coast until two P.M., when a strong head-wind obliged us to put ashore.
+As soon as we landed, I set out with the Babillard for Haldane River,
+carrying a small quantity of pemmican, lest the people should be in want
+of food; and after a walk, or rather a run, of five miles, I had the
+happiness of finding them all well, and with plenty of provisions, as
+they had killed six deer. Their Indian guide had taken them a little
+inland, by which they had missed Limestone Point; but they were very
+sorry it had so happened, when they learned the anxiety they had
+occasioned to Mr. Kendall and myself, by their not erecting the mark
+there as they had been directed to do. The wind moderating after sunset,
+Mr. Kendall joined us with the two canoes, so that the party was again
+happily reunited. [Sidenote: Monday, 28th.] On Monday the 28th, I sent
+back the small canoe with the Babillard and two Canadians, to join
+Beaulieu, and proceed with the rest of the party in the larger canoe to
+Fort Franklin, where we arrived on Friday, the 1st of September, and
+received a warm welcome from Mr. Dease, after an absence of seventy-one
+days, during which period we had travelled by land and water one
+thousand seven hundred and nine geographical, or nineteen hundred and
+eighty statute miles.
+
+Having now brought the Narrative of the proceedings of the Eastern
+Detachment to a conclusion, the pleasing duty remains of expressing my
+gratitude to the party for their cheerful and obedient conduct. Not a
+murmur of discontent was heard throughout the voyage, but every
+individual engaged with alacrity in the laborious tasks he was called
+upon to perform. Where all behaved with the greatest zeal, it would be
+invidious to particularize any; and I am happy in having it in my power
+to add, that since our return to England, Gillet, Fuller and Tysoe, who
+were in His Majesty's service previous to their being employed on the
+Expedition, have been rewarded by promotion. Our good-natured and
+faithful Esquimaux friend Ooligbuck, carried with him to his native
+lands the warmest wishes and esteem of the whole party. His attachment
+to us was never doubtful, even when we were surrounded by a tribe of his
+own nation.
+
+The general abilities and professional skill of my companion, Lieutenant
+Kendall, are duly appreciated in higher quarters, and can derive little
+lustre from any eulogium from me; but I cannot deny myself the
+gratification of recording my deep sense of the good fortune and
+happiness I experienced in being associated with a gentleman of such
+pleasing manners, and one upon whose friendly support and sound judgment
+I could with confidence rely, on occasions of difficulty and doubt
+inseparable from such a voyage.
+
+_End of Dr. Richardson's Narrative of the Proceedings of the Eastern
+Detachment._
+
+
+
+
+_TABLE of the distances travelled by both Branches of the Expedition,
+and of the extent of their Discoveries in 1827._
+
+  BY THE WESTERN PARTY.                                 _Statute Miles._
+  ----------------------------------------------------------------------
+  From Fort Franklin, by Fort Norman, to Point Separation (river
+  course)                                                            525
+    Point Separation to Pillage Point, at the Mouth of the Mackenzie 129
+    Pillage Point to Return reef (sea-voyage out)                    374
+    Return Reef, back to Fort Franklin, including Peel River        1020
+                                                                    ----
+      Distance travelled by the Western Party in July, August,
+      September, 1826.                                              2048
+
+  BY THE EASTERN PARTY.
+  ----------------------------------------------------------------------
+  From Fort Franklin to Point Separation, along with the western
+  party                                                              525
+    Point Separation to Point Encounter (river course.)              159
+    Encounter to the Coppermine River (sea-voyage[14])               863
+   The mouth of the Coppermine, over land to Fort Franklin           433
+                                                                    ----
+     Distance travelled by the Eastern Party in July and
+     August, 1826                                                   1980
+
+  EXTENT OF THE DISCOVERIES OF THE WESTERN PARTY IN 1826.
+  ----------------------------------------------------------------------
+  From Point Separation to the mouth of the Mackenzie, by a western
+  branch, not previously known                                       129
+    Pillage Point by the sea-coast to Point Beechey, which was
+    seen from Return Reef                                            391
+  Peel River and a branch of the Mackenzie surveyed for the first
+  time, on the return                                                 90
+                                                                    ----
+                                                                     610
+
+  EXTENT OF THE DISCOVERIES OF THE EASTERN PARTY IN 1826.
+  ----------------------------------------------------------------------
+  From Sacred Island to Point Encounter, being a portion of the
+  river lying to the eastward of Mackenzie's route                    37
+    Point Encounter, along the coast to the Coppermine River         863
+    The Copper Mountains, overland to Bear Lake                      115
+                                                                    ----
+                                                                    1015
+
+_TABLE of Times of High Water, reduced to Full and Change, by E.N.
+Kendall, Lieutenant, R.N._
+
+                           Geographic    Times of High Water.   Winds.
+                           Position.
+                                                     Reduced
+          Names of Places  Lat     Lon.              to full  Direction.
+  Date.   of Observations.  N.      W.     Observed  & change.    Force.
+
+                                                        General Remarks.
+  ----------------------------------------------------------------------
+  1825.                    d. m.   d. m.   h. m.     h. m.
+  Aug.
+    16 Garry Island        69 29  135 41   1  0 P.M. 10 19   N.E.      6
+                                                         No ice visible.
+  1826.
+  July
+     9 Point Toker         69 38  132 18   4 25 P.M. 1  45   N.E.b.E.  5
+                        Loose ice covering the sea. Rise of water 20 in.
+
+    10 } Bay between  }                  { 5 0  P.M. 0  56   East.     8
+       } Points Toker }    69 43  131 58 {          Heavy pieces of ice.
+    12 } and Warren   }                  { 6 48 P.M. 1  48   -         5
+                                                     Little ice visible.
+
+    13 Atkinson Island     69 55  130 43   7 0  P.M. 0  32   S.E.      1
+                                                Rise and fall 18 inches.
+
+    14 Browell Cove        70 00  130 20   7 0  P.M. 1  12   West.     6
+                                              Very little rise and fall.
+
+    18 Point Sir           70 08  127 45   3 15 A.M. 3  47   Calm.     -
+       P. Maitland
+    19 Near Cape Bathurst  70 33  127 21   1 30 A.M. 1  28   E.S.E.    6
+                                   { In the mouth of Harrowby Bay, round
+                         (18 & 19) {    which the tide appeared to flow.
+                                   {    Flood setting from the Eastward.
+                                   {        Rise and fall 14-1/2 inches.
+
+    20 Point Fitton        70 11  126 14   4 00 A.M. 3  18   N.W.      6
+                                                Rise and fall 13 inches.
+
+_TABLE of Times of High Water, &c.--Concluded._
+
+                           Geographic    Times of High Water.   Winds.
+                           Position.
+                                                     Reduced
+          Names of Places  Lat     Lon.              to full  Direction.
+  Date.   of Observations.  N.      W.     Observed  & change.    Force.
+
+                                                        General Remarks.
+  ----------------------------------------------------------------------
+  1826.                    d. m.   d. m.   h. m.     h. m.
+  July
+    20 W. Horton River     69 50  125 55   4 15 P.M. 3 15    W.N.W.    9
+
+    21 -                   -  -   -   -    5 0  A.M. 3 49     -        7
+
+    27 Cape Lyon           69 46  122 51 {11 50 A.M. 6 33    E.N.E.    8
+                                         {      Stream of flood from the
+                                         {       Eastward. Rise and fall
+    30 {Three miles from }               {                    14 inches.
+       {Buchanan River   } 69 24  120 03 { 5 0  P.M. 8 20    W.N.W.    8
+                            Ice close and heavy, Rise and fall 9 inches.
+  Aug.
+     1 Point Wise          69 03  119 00   8 30 P.M. 7 04    West.     4
+                                                            Compact ice.
+
+     3 Stapylton Bay       68 52  116 03   9 0  P.M. 8 22    East.     2
+                                               In a bay filled with ice.
+
+     4 { Between C. Hope }
+       { and C. Bexley   } 68 57  115 48   3 15 P.M. 8 25    E.S.E.    4
+                                                         Ice to seaward.
+
+     5 Chantry Island      68 45  114 23   8 30 P.M. 7 22    W.S.W.    3
+                                                    Loose masses of ice.
+
+     6 {Seven miles from }
+       {C. Krusenstern   } 68 32  113 53   9 00 P.M. 7 13    Variable. -
+                            Flood from the S.E. Velocity 3 miles an hour.
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[13] Franklin's First Journey to the Polar Sea, p. 337.
+
+[14] All the distances mentioned in the narrative of the proceedings of
+the eastern detachment, are geographical miles.
+
+
+
+
+CAPTAIN FRANKLIN'S NARRATIVE RESUMED.
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+Brief Notices of the Second Winter at Bear Lake--Traditions of the
+Dog-Ribs--Leave Fort Franklin--Winter Journey to Fort Chipewyan--Remarks
+on the progress of improvement in the Fur Countries--Set out in Canoes
+on the Voyage Homeward--Join Dr. Richardson at Cumberland House--Mr.
+Drummond's Narrative--Arrival in Canada, at New York, and London.
+
+
+[Sidenote: Thursday, 21st] During our absence on the sea-coast, Mr.
+Dease had employed the Canadians in making such repairs about the
+buildings as to fit them for another winter's residence, but he had not
+been able to complete his plans before the arrival of Dr. Richardson's
+party, through whose assistance they were finished shortly after our
+return. The inconvenience arising from the unfinished state of the
+houses was a trifle, when compared to the disappointment we felt at the
+poverty of our store, which contained neither meat nor dried fish, and
+the party was living solely on the daily produce of the nets, which, at
+this time, was barely sufficient for its support. Notwithstanding the
+repeated promises which the Fort hunters and the Dog-Ribs in general had
+given us, of exerting themselves to collect provisions during the
+summer, we found that they had not supplied more than three deer since
+our departure. The only reason they assigned to Mr. Dease, on his
+remonstrating with them, was, that they had been withheld from hunting
+at any great distance from the Fort, by the fear of meeting the Copper
+Indians, who, they fancied, would be lying in wait to attack them. This
+excuse, however, had been so often alleged without a cause, that it was
+considered mere evasion, and we attributed their negligence to the
+indolence and apathy which mark the character of this tribe.
+
+I need not dilate upon the anxieties which we felt at the prospect of
+commencing the winter with such a scanty supply of food. We at once
+sent off five men, provided with nets and lines, to the fishery in
+M'Vicar's Bay, which had been so productive in the preceding year, in
+the hope that, besides gaining their own subsistence, they might store
+up some fish for us, which could be brought to the Fort when the lake
+was frozen. Our anxiety was, in some measure, relieved on the 28th of
+September, by the arrival of Beaulieu and some hunters, from the north
+side of Bear Lake, with a supply of dried meat. The term of Beaulieu's
+engagement being now expired, he was desirous of quitting our service;
+and though he was our best hunter, Mr. Dease advised me to comply with
+his request, as he had collected a number of useless followers, whom we
+must have fed during the short days. He accordingly took his departure,
+accompanied by seventeen persons, which was a very important relief to
+our daily issue of provision. I furnished them with ammunition from the
+store to enable them to hunt on their way to Marten Lake, where they
+intended to fish until the return of spring.
+
+[Sidenote: October.] Calculating that the stores, which had been ordered
+from York Factory, must have arrived at Fort Norman, I despatched Mr.
+Kendall for them; and he returned on the 8th of October, with as much of
+them as his canoe would carry. The men were immediately furnished with
+warm clothing, of which the eastern party were in great need, having
+left every thing on quitting the sea-coast, except one suit each. We
+were rejoiced at the receipt of a large packet of letters from England,
+dated in the preceding February. They brought out the gratifying
+intelligence that my friend Lieutenant Back had been promoted, in
+December, 1825, to the rank of Commander. I likewise received a large
+packet of news papers from his Excellency the Earl of Dalhousie,
+Governor-in-Chief of Canada, to whom I take this opportunity of
+returning my best thanks for the warm interest he took in the welfare of
+the Expedition.
+
+I shall now briefly trace the advance of winter: the nights were frosty
+and the weather was unsettled and gloomy, from the time of our arrival
+to the close of September. Heavy rain fell on the 2nd of October, which
+on the following day was succeeded by hard frost and much snow. The snow
+which fell on the 8th remained on the ground for the rest of the season.
+The small lake was frozen on the 12th, from which day we dated the
+commencement of winter as we had done in the preceding year. There was a
+succession of gales, and almost constant snow from that time to the
+close of the month; and on the 30th the thermometer first descended
+below zero. The snow then was much deeper than at the close of November
+in the former year. The last of the migratory birds, which were a few
+hardy ducks, took their departure on the 18th of October.
+
+[Sidenote: November.] Stormy weather kept the Bear Lake open until the
+16th of November, nine days later than the year before; and for some
+weeks we received no assistance from the nets, which again reduced our
+stock of meat to a small quantity. The same occupations, amusements, and
+exercise, were followed by the officers and men as in the former
+residence; and the occurrences were so similar, that particular mention
+of them is unnecessary. On the 25th of November we despatched some men
+with dogs and sledges to bring the remainder of the stores from Fort
+Norman. As it was my intention, as soon as the maps and drawings could
+be finished, to proceed on the ice to Fort Chipewyan, in order to secure
+provisions for the out-going of the party, and to reach England by the
+earliest conveyance, I requested of Mr. Brisbois to provide a cariole,
+sledges, and snow-shoes, for my journey, the birch of which they are
+made being plentiful in the neighbourhood of Fort Norman, and he having
+a better workman than any at our establishment. On the 28th Mackenzie
+arrived from M'Vicar's Bay, with an acceptable supply of fine
+white-fish. We learned from him that our party, as well as the Indians,
+were living in abundance; and that the latter had shown their wisdom
+this season, not only in taking up their quarters at that place, instead
+of remaining about the Fort, as they had done in the former year, but
+also in building themselves houses like those of our men, and thus
+having more comforts and better shelter than they had ever before
+enjoyed. The fishery opposite the Fort was now sufficiently productive
+for our wants, though the fish, from being out of season, disagreed so
+much with several of the men as to cause great debility, which was the
+more distressing to us, as we were unable to supply the invalids with
+meat on more than two days in the week. Contrary to what had happened
+last season, we did not receive meat this year from more than six or
+seven persons of either the Hare Indians or Dog-Rib tribes, after the
+ice set in; this happened, probably, from our being now unprovided with
+goods to exchange for their furs; though they had been expressly told in
+the spring, that we should have abundance of ammunition, tobacco, and
+other supplies, to purchase all the meat they would bring.
+
+By the return of our men from Fort Norman, we learned that one of our
+Dog-Rib hunters had murdered a man of his tribe, in the autumn, near
+the mouth of the Bear Lake River. The culprit being at the house, we
+inquired into the truth of the report, which was found correct; and he
+was in consequence instantly discharged from our service. His victim had
+been a man of notoriously loose habits, and in this instance had carried
+off the hunter's wife and child, while he was in pursuit of deer, at a
+great distance from the Fort. The husband pursued the guilty pair the
+moment he discovered their flight, and, on overtaking them, instantly
+shot the seducer; but the woman escaped a similar fate, by having the
+presence of mind to turn aside the muzzle of the gun when in the act of
+being discharged. She did not, however, escape punishment: her husband
+struck her senseless to the ground with the stock of his gun, and would
+have completed her destruction, but for the cries and intreaties of
+their only child. This transaction adds another to the melancholy list
+of about thirty murders which have been perpetrated on the borders of
+this lake since 1799, when the first trading post was established.
+
+The Dog-Rib Indians, being derived from the same stock with the
+Chipewyans, have many traditions and opinions in common with that
+people. I requested Mr. Dease to obtain answers from the old men of the
+tribe to a few queries which I drew up, and the following is the
+substance of the information he procured, which may be compared with the
+more extended statements by Hearne and Mackenzie, of the general belief
+of the Chipewyans.
+
+The _first man_, they said, was, according to the tradition of their
+fathers, named Chapewee. He found the world well stocked with food, and
+he created children, to whom he gave two kinds of fruit, the black and
+the white, but forbade them to eat the black. Having thus issued his
+commands for the guidance of his family, he took leave of them for a
+time, and made a long excursion for the purpose of conducting the sun to
+the world. During this, his first absence, his children were obedient,
+and ate only the white fruit, but they consumed it all; the consequence
+was, that when he a second time absented himself to bring the moon, and
+they longed for fruit, they forgot the orders of their father, and ate
+of the black, which was the only kind remaining. He was much displeased
+on his return, and told them that in future the earth would produce bad
+fruits, and that they would be tormented by sickness and
+death--penalties which have attached to his descendants to the present
+day. Chapewee himself lived so long that his throat was worn out, and he
+could no longer enjoy life; but he was unable to die, until, at his own
+request, one of his people drove a beaver-tooth into his head.
+
+The same, or another Chapewee (for there is some uncertainty on this
+head,) lived with his family on a strait between two seas. Having there
+constructed a weir to catch fish, such a quantity were taken, that the
+strait was choked up, and the water rose and overflowed the earth.
+Chapewee embarked with his family in a canoe, taking with them all
+manner of birds and beasts. The waters covered the earth for many days,
+but, at length, Chapewee said, we cannot live always thus, we must find
+land again, and he accordingly sent a beaver to search for it. The
+beaver was drowned, and his carcase was seen floating on the water; on
+which Chapewee despatched a musk-rat on the same errand. The second
+messenger was long absent, and when he did return was near dying with
+fatigue, but he had a little earth in his paws. The sight of the earth
+rejoiced Chapewee, but his first care was about the safety of his
+diligent servant, the rat, which he rubbed gently with his hands, and
+cherished in his bosom, until it revived. He next took up the earth, and
+mouldering it with his fingers, placed it on the water, where it
+increased by degrees until it formed an island in the ocean. A wolf was
+the first animal Chapewee placed on the infant earth, but the weight
+proving too great, it began to sink on one side, and was in danger of
+turning over. To prevent this accident the wolf was directed to move
+round the island, which he did for a whole year, and in that time the
+earth increased so much in size, that all on board the canoe were able
+to disembark on it. Chapewee, on landing, stuck up a piece of wood,
+which became a fir-tree, and grew with amazing rapidity, until its top
+reached the skies. A squirrel ran up this tree, and was pursued by
+Chapewee, who endeavoured to knock it down, but could not overtake it.
+He continued the chase, however, until he reached the stars, where he
+found a fine plain, and a beaten road. In this road he set a snare made
+of his sister's hair, and then returned to the earth. The sun appeared
+as usual in the heavens in the morning, but at noon it was caught by the
+snare which Chapewee had set for the squirrel, and the sky was instantly
+darkened. Chapewee's family on this said to him, you must have done
+something wrong when you were aloft, for we no longer enjoy the light of
+day; "I have," replied he, "but it was unintentionally." Chapewee then
+endeavoured to repair the fault he had committed, and sent a number of
+animals up the tree to release the sun, by cutting the snare, but the
+intense heat of that luminary reduced them all to ashes. The efforts of
+the more active animals being thus frustrated, a ground mole, though
+such a grovelling and awkward beast, succeeded by burrowing under the
+road in the sky, until it reached and cut asunder the snare which bound
+the sun. It lost its eyes, however, the instant it thrust its head into
+the light, and its nose and teeth have ever since been brown, as if
+burnt. Chapewee's island, during these transactions, increased to the
+present size of the American Continent; and he traced the course of the
+rivers, and scraped out the lakes by drawing his fingers through the
+earth. He next allotted to the quadrupeds, birds, and fishes, their
+different stations, and endowing them with certain capacities, he told
+them that they were in future to provide for their own safety, because
+man would destroy them whenever he found their tracks; but to console
+them, he said, that when they died they should be like a seed of grass,
+which, when thrown into the water, springs again into life. The animals
+objected to this arrangement, and said, let us when we die be as a stone
+which, when thrown into a lake, disappears forever from the sight of
+man. Chapewee's family complained of the penalty of death entailed upon
+them for eating the black fruit, on which he granted that such of them
+as dreamed certain dreams should be men of medicine, capable of curing
+diseases and of prolonging life. In order to preserve this virtue, they
+were not to tell their dreams until a certain period had elapsed. To
+acquire the power of foretelling events, they were to take an ant alive,
+and insert it under the skin of the palm of the hand, without letting
+any one know what they had done.
+
+For a long time Chapewee's descendants were united as one family, but at
+length some young men being accidentally killed in a game, a quarrel
+ensued, and a general dispersion of mankind took place. One Indian fixed
+his residence on the borders of the lake, taking with him a dog big with
+young. The pups in due time were littered, and the Indian, when he went
+out to fish, carefully tied them up to prevent their straying. Several
+times as he approached his tent, he heard a noise of children talking
+and playing; but on entering it he only perceived the pups tied up as
+usual. His curiosity being excited by the noises he had heard, he
+determined to watch, and one day pretending to go out and fish,
+according to custom, he concealed himself in a convenient place. In a
+short time he again heard voices, and rushing suddenly into the tent,
+beheld some beautiful children sporting and laughing, with the dog-skins
+lying by their side. He threw the skins into the fire, and the children,
+retaining their proper forms, grew up, and were the ancestors of the
+Dog-Rib nation.
+
+On Mr. Dease questioning some of the elderly men as to their knowledge
+of a supreme Being, they replied--"We believe that there is a Great
+Spirit, who created every thing, both us and the world for our use. We
+suppose that he dwells in the lands from whence the white people come,
+that he is kind to the inhabitants of those lands, and that there are
+people there who never die: the winds that blow from that quarter
+(south) are always warm. He does not know the wretched state of our
+island, nor the pitiful condition in which we are."
+
+To the question, whom do your medicine men address when they conjure?
+They answered,--"We do not think that they speak to the master of life,
+for if they did, we should fare better than we do, and should not die.
+He does not inhabit our lands."
+
+[Sidenote: December.] On the evening of the 1st of December a brilliant
+comet appeared in the western quarter, which had been indistinctly seen
+the two preceding nights. A line drawn through alpha and eta Ursae Majoris
+led to its position; it also formed a trapezium with alpha Aquilae and alpha
+Lyrae and alpha Coronae Borealis. This was the last night of its being
+visible. The temperature had been unusually high for several days, about
+this time +18 above zero; and, with the exception of the night of the
+1st, the atmosphere gloomy; and we amused ourselves with conjecturing,
+whether this extraordinary warmth, and the density of the clouds, could
+in any way be ascribed to the comet.
+
+At Christmas we were favoured by a visit from Mr. Brisbois, to whom we
+felt much obliged for the care he had taken of our sea-stores, beside
+many personal civilities. The visit of a stranger is always heartily
+welcomed in such a desolate region, and to provide for the entertainment
+of the party during Mr. Brisbois's stay, Captain Back and Mr. Kendall
+displayed their ingenuity in cutting out several pasteboard figures, to
+represent behind an illuminated screen the characters of a comic piece,
+which Captain Back had written for the occasion. The exhibition was
+entirely new to most of the party, and its execution afforded such
+general amusement, that it was repeated on three nights at the request
+of the men. [Sidenote: January.] The New Year was celebrated by a dance,
+which closed our festivities; and on Mr. Brisbois quitting us the
+following day, we resumed our ordinary occupations. Two Hare Indians
+arrived at the fort, whom Mr. Kendall recognised as the persons who had
+brought provisions to Dr. Richardson's party, as soon as they had heard
+of his having reached the Bear Lake Portage; and we had much pleasure
+in rewarding their promptitude on that occasion, by a substantial
+present and a silver medal. They were particularly pleased at the
+medals, and assured us that they should be proud to show them to the
+rest of their tribe as tokens of our approbation.
+
+On the evening of the 4th of January, the temperature being -52.2
+degrees, Mr. Kendall froze some mercury in the mould of a pistol bullet,
+and fired it against a door at the distance of six paces. A small
+portion of the mercury penetrated to the depth of one eighth of an inch,
+but the remainder only just lodged in the wood. Much snow fell in the
+second week of January; and on the 12th, we ascertained that its average
+depth was two feet in the sheltered parts of the woods. The weather
+became mild after the 20th; and on the 22nd, the sun's rays were so
+powerful as to raise a spirit thermometer with a blackened bulb, to
++30.5 degrees, when the temperature of the air was -3.5 degrees. A very
+brilliant and clearly defined parhelion was visible at the time, and
+there were only a few light clouds. The wind was east, and as usual,
+with the wind from that quarter when the sky is clear, the distant land
+appeared much distorted by refraction.
+
+The documents which had been preparing being now nearly finished, we
+sent for the cariole, &c. from Fort Norman. [Sidenote: 18th.] When the
+men came back, they brought the information, that, according to the
+report of the Indians, the ice was so rough on the Mackenzie above Fort
+Norman, that travelling would be extremely difficult. I therefore
+abandoned the intention of proceeding by that way, and resolved on
+passing through the woods to Fort Simpson, as soon as guides could be
+procured. The delay afforded me the opportunity of registering the
+lowest temperature we had witnessed in this country. [Sidenote:
+February.] At a quarter after eight in the morning of the 7th of
+February, the thermometer descended to -58 degrees; it had been -57.5
+degrees, and 57.3 degrees thrice in the course of this and the preceding
+day--between the 5th and 8th, its general state was from -48 degrees to
+-52 degrees, though it occasionally rose to -43 degrees.
+
+At Fort Enterprise, during a similar degree of cold, the atmosphere had
+been calm: but here we had a light wind, which sometimes approached to a
+fresh breeze. The sky was cloudless the whole time. Some of our men, as
+well as the Indians, were travelling on the lake during this cold
+without experiencing any greater inconvenience than having their faces
+frost bitten. The dogs, however, suffered severely, three being
+completely lamed by the frost, and all of them becoming much
+thinner.[15] These cold days were followed by windy though mild weather,
+which brought the rein-deer nearer to the Establishment; and our hunters
+killed seven within a day's march. Their reappearance in our
+neighbourhood was very gratifying to the whole party, as we were
+heartily tired of a fish-diet, and I felt an especial pleasure at being
+able to quit the place without the least apprehension of the party being
+in want of provision.
+
+The following is a list of the amount of provision we obtained at Fort
+Franklin, from the time of Mr. Dease's arrival to the close of January
+1827; independent of the supplies of pemmican, &c. for the sea voyage,
+which were procured from the Hudson's Bay Company.
+
+Small Fish, Bear Lake Herring, 79,440.--Trout, 3,475.--Pounds of fresh
+meat, 24,053.--Dried ribs of Rein Deer, 2,370.--Pounds of pounded deer's
+meat, 1,744.--Pounds of fat or tallow, 2,929.--Rein-deer tongues,
+1,849.--Beaver, 12.--Partridges, 386.--Hares, 52.
+
+On the 16th of February, Augustus and two Dog-Ribs were sent forward to
+be at the track in the line of my intended route. My departure being
+fixed for the 20th, the charts, drawings, journals, and provisions were
+distributed between the cariole and three sledges of which my train
+consisted; and as the dogs were in too weak a condition for drawing
+heavy burdens, two Indians were engaged, to accompany us four days, for
+the purpose of carrying part of the pemmican. I afterwards delivered
+written instructions to Captain Back, directing him to proceed to York
+Factory as soon as the ice should break, and from thence, by the
+Hudson's Bay ship, to England, taking with him the British party, but to
+send the Canadians to Montreal. Augustus and Ooligbuck were to be
+forwarded to Churchill, that they might rejoin their relatives.
+
+[Sidenote: Tuesday, 20th.] At ten A.M., I quitted the Fort, accompanied
+by five of our men and the two Indians, the latter dragging each sixty
+pounds of pemmican on their sledges. Captain Back, the officers, and men
+assembled to give us a farewell salute of three hearty cheers, which
+served to renew my regret at leaving a society whose members had
+endeared themselves to me by unremitting attention to their duties, and
+the greatest personal kindness. We crossed the lake expeditiously,
+favoured by a north-west gale, and then continued our course to the
+southward until sunset. The mode of bivouacking in the winter, as well
+as the course of proceeding, having been so fully described in my former
+Narrative, and by several other travellers in this country, I need not
+repeat them. We usually set forward at the first appearance of light and
+marched until sunset, halting an hour to breakfast. The rate of walking
+depended on the depth of snow; where the track was good, we made about
+two miles in the hour.
+
+On the evening of the second day, we were deserted by our Indian
+companions, who, as we afterwards learned, took advantage of the rest of
+the party being some distance in advance of them, to turn back to the
+nearest wood, and there deposit the pemmican on a stage which they
+constructed by the road side. Supposing that they had only halted in
+consequence of the gale that was then blowing, we did not send to look
+after them before the following morning, when every trace of their path
+was covered with the snow drift; and as I considered we might possibly
+spend some time in a fruitless search, I thought the wisest course was
+to put the party and dogs on a shorter allowance than usual, and proceed
+on our journey. Their conduct affords another instance of the little
+dependence that ought to be placed on the Indians of this country, when
+more than ordinary exertion is required.
+
+[Sidenote: March.] We travelled fifty miles through a swampy level
+country, thinly wooded, with a few ridges of hills visible in the
+distance, east and west of our course. The country was uneven and better
+wooded for the succeeding thirty miles. We next crossed a steep range of
+hills elevated about eight hundred feet above the surrounding land, and
+then passing over a succession of lower hills and vallies, descended to
+the Mackenzie, and following that river for thirty miles, came to Fort
+Simpson on the 8th of March; the whole distance being two hundred and
+twenty miles, and for the last one hundred and seventy miles, through a
+well wooded country. We crossed several rivers which flow into the
+Mackenzie, and some considerable lakes which are laid down in the map.
+But one solitary family of Indians were seen on the journey, and these
+were stationed within a day's march of Fort Simpson. They had inclosed
+large tracts of ground with hedges, in which they set snares for hares,
+and, being very successful, were living in abundance, and were well
+clothed, their dress consisting principally of hare skins.
+
+As soon as Mr. Smith, the chief Factor of the District, was informed of
+our approach, and that we were short of provisions, in consequence of
+the Indians having made off with the pemmican, he kindly sent a supply
+of fresh meat for our use; and on our arrival at the Fort, he gave us
+the most friendly reception. Our Indian guide had never been nearer to
+Fort Simpson by land, than the Lake of the Elevated Land, and only once
+by the course of the Mackenzie, many years before the Fort was built;
+and yet if he had not been led aside by falling upon the track leading
+to the Indians above-mentioned, he would have come upon the Mackenzie,
+directly opposite Fort Simpson. His course he told me was governed by
+his recollection of a particular mountain, which he remembered to have
+noticed from the Mackenzie, and which we now passed within two miles,
+but on his former visit, he did not approach it nearer than eighteen
+miles. Its outline must have appeared so different when seen from these
+distances, that one can hardly imagine a less observant eye than that of
+an Indian recognising any of its distinguishing points, especially as it
+was not a detached mountain, but formed one of a line of hills of
+considerable extent. Our dogs being completely tired, I remained a week
+to recruit their strength. During this interval I had the opportunity of
+examining all the accounts which the Hudson's Bay Company had to present
+for supplies to the Expedition from this department, and of making
+provision for the outward journey of Captain Back and his party.
+Arrangements were also made, that the Hudson's Bay Company should take,
+at a valuation, the spare stores of the Expedition on its quitting Bear
+Lake. I accompanied Mr. Smith to a part of the River of the Mountains,
+where a portion of the bank, several acres in extent, had been torn off,
+and thrown a considerable distance into the channel of the river. The
+disruption took place in the preceding November, some days after the
+water had been frozen, and when there was no apparent cause for its
+separation. When the water is flowing over the banks, and the earth is
+in consequence loosened, the falling of the bank is not unfrequent in
+the Mackenzie, though on a much smaller scale than in this instance. I
+can only account for the separation of the mass after the ground had
+been frozen, by the supposition, that there was some spring of warm
+water in its rear, which loosened the soil, and that the pressure of the
+ice contributed, with the weight of snow at the top, to its overthrow.
+
+At the time of my visit, an Indian woman committed suicide, by hanging
+herself, in a fit of jealousy, at an encampment a short distance from
+the Fort. I had thought that suicide was extremely rare among the
+Northern Indians; but I subsequently learned that it was not so uncommon
+as I had imagined, and I was informed of two instances that occurred in
+the year of 1826. The weather was remarkably mild; during my stay
+icicles were formed on the southern front of the house, and there were
+many other indications of an early spring.
+
+[Sidenote: Thursday, 15th.] On the afternoon of the 15th of March I took
+leave of Mr. Smith, who kindly furnished me with his best dog for my
+cariole, one of mine having proved unfit for the journey to Slave Lake;
+we were also indebted to him for the skin of a mountain goat and a lynx;
+and to Mr. M'Pherson for the skins of several smaller animals and birds,
+from the neighbourhood of the Rocky Mountains, which they added to our
+collection. Having sent back one of my men with the Indian guides to
+Bear Lake, we had now only two sledges; but as we were unable to carry
+the whole of our lading, Mr. Smith had the goodness to send a sledge and
+one of his men to convey a part of the provisions for four days. At the
+distance of eight miles we met two men with a cariole and sledge, which
+Mr. M'Vicar had sent for my use from Slave Lake; but being well provided
+I did not require the services of this party, though we derived great
+benefit from their track as we proceeded, and also from some deposits of
+provision which they had made on the route.
+
+[Sidenote: Wednesday, 21st.] Following the course of the Mackenzie, we
+arrived, on the 21st, at the expansion of the river called the Little
+Lake, and there had the pleasure of meeting two Canadians, on their way
+to Bear Lake, with a packet of letters from England. We hastened towards
+the shore and encamped; and though the night was piercingly cold, I
+spent the greatest part of it most agreeably, scanning the contents of
+the box by the unsteady light of a blazing fire. After breakfast next
+morning I despatched the packet to its destination, under the charge of
+M'Leay, who had accompanied me from Bear Lake, and retained one of the
+Canadians in his stead. We arrived at Fort Resolution, on the Slave Lake
+to breakfast, on the 26th, and I once more had the happiness of
+receiving the friendly attentions of Mr. M'Vicar, to whom it will be
+remembered by the readers of my last Narrative, that the members of that
+Expedition were so greatly indebted for his tender care of them after
+their sufferings. Dr. Richardson had quitted this place in the preceding
+December, for the purpose of joining Mr. Drummond, the Assistant
+Botanist in the Saskatchawan River, and that he might have the benefit
+of an earlier spring than in this quarter to collect plants. The
+prospect here being completely wintry, I made another halt of eight
+days, being desirous of remaining as long as I could, without incurring
+the risk of exposure to the thaw on my way to Fort Chipewyan.
+
+I was glad to find that the Chipewyans and Copper Indians were at length
+employing dogs to drag their sledges. A superstitious belief that their
+own origin was derived from those animals, had for several years past
+thrown this laborious and degrading occupation on the poor women, who,
+by the change, experienced a most happy relief. It was indeed, highly
+gratifying to observe that these Indians no longer beat their wives in
+the cruel manner to which they had been formerly accustomed; and that,
+in the comparative tenderness with which they now treat the sex, they
+have made the first and greatest step to all moral and general
+improvement.
+
+It will be recollected that on receiving, at Bear Lake, a report of the
+traces of white people having been seen near the sea-coast, I had
+requested that Mr. M'Vicar would collect a party of Indians, and send
+them to the spot to convey a letter from me to Captain Parry. Mr.
+M'Vicar now informed me that some Indians had left his Fort for the
+purpose, under the charge of a Canadian, named Joseph St. Pierre, who
+volunteered for the occasion, but the Indians continued with him only
+for a short distance beyond the east end of Slave Lake, when they became
+weary of their journey, and dropping off one by one, left him alone. St.
+Pierre, however, having determined to deliver the letter to Captain
+Parry, if possible, persevered for many days in a fruitless search for
+the river on the banks of which the marks were reported to have been
+seen; even after he had sustained the loss of all his clothes (except
+those on his person,) by the grass catching fire when he was asleep; but
+at length, being short of food, his shoes worn out, and almost without
+covering for his feet, he was compelled to return to the Fort. He was
+not at the house at the time of my visit, but I left an order with Mr.
+M'Vicar, that he might be rewarded for his zeal and exertions, and
+handsomely remunerated for his loss.
+
+[Sidenote: April.] The subsequent journey to the Athabasca Lake occupied
+eight days; we arrived at Fort Chipewyan in the afternoon of the 12th of
+April. I found Mr. Stewart, the Chief Factor of the Department,
+surrounded by a large body of Indians, who quitted the Fort as soon as
+they had exchanged their furs, in order to seek their living by fishing
+and hunting wild fowl, instead of passing four or five weeks in
+indolence about the Establishment, as had been their custom at this
+season for many preceding years. This beneficial change of conduct, on
+their part, is owing to the Hudson's Bay Company having ceased to bring
+spirits into the northern department; and to some other judicious
+regulations which the Directors have made respecting the trade with the
+natives. The plans now adopted offer supplies of clothes, and of every
+necessary, to those Indians who choose to be active in the collection of
+furs; and it was pleasing to learn, that the natives in this quarter had
+shown their acquiescence in these measures by increased exertion during
+the preceding winter. Some other very wholesome regulations have been
+introduced by the Company; amongst others, the Sabbath is ordered to be
+properly observed, and Divine Service to be read at every post. They
+have also directed, where the soil will allow, a portion of ground to be
+cultivated for the growth of culinary vegetables at each of their
+establishments, and I witnessed the good effects of this order, even at
+this advanced post, where the ground is rocky; the tables of the
+officers being supplied daily, and those of the men frequently, with
+potatoes and barley. Such luxuries were very rarely found beyond
+Cumberland House, on the route that we travelled during my former
+journey.
+
+Feeling a deep interest in the welfare of this country, in which I have
+spent a large portion of the last seven years, I have much pleasure in
+recording these improvements; and in stating my conviction, that the
+benevolent wishes of the Directors, respecting the inhabitants of their
+territories, will be followed up with corresponding energy by the
+resident Governor, the chief factors, and the traders of the Company.
+
+I mentioned in my former Narrative, that the Northern Indians had
+cherished a belief for some years, that a great change was about to take
+place in the natural order of things, and that among other advantages
+arising from it, their own condition of life was to be materially
+bettered. This story, I was now informed by Mr. Stewart, originated with
+a woman, whose history appears to me deserving of a short notice. While
+living at the N.W. Company's Post, on the Columbia River, as the wife of
+one of the Canadian servants, she formed a sudden resolution of becoming
+a warrior; and throwing aside her female dress, she clothed herself in a
+suitable manner. Having procured a gun, a bow and arrows, and a horse,
+she sallied forth to join a party of her countrymen then going to war;
+and, in her first essay, displayed so much courage as to attract general
+regard, which was so much heightened by her subsequent feats of bravery,
+that many young men put themselves under her command. Their example was
+soon generally followed, and, at length she became the principal leader
+of the tribe, under the designation of the "Manlike Woman." Being
+young, and of a delicate frame, her followers attributed her exploits to
+the possession of supernatural power, and, therefore, received whatever
+she said with implicit faith. To maintain her influence during peace,
+the lady thought proper to invent the above-mentioned prediction, which
+was quickly spread through the whole northern district. At a later
+period of her life, our heroine undertook to convey a packet of
+importance from the Company's Post on the Columbia to that in New
+Caledonia, through a tract of country which had not, at that time, been
+passed by the traders, and which was known to be infested by several
+hostile tribes. She chose for her companion another woman, whom she
+passed off as her wife. They were attacked by a party of Indians, and
+though the Manlike Woman received a wound in the breast, she
+accomplished her object, and returned to the Columbia with answers to
+the letters. When last seen by the traders, she had collected volunteers
+for another war excursion, in which she received a mortal wound. The
+faith of the Indians was shaken by her death, and soon afterwards the
+whole of the story she had invented fell into discredit.
+
+In the Athabasca department, which includes Slave Lake and Peace River,
+as well as in the more southern districts, the autumn of 1826, and the
+following winter, were unusually mild. Near the Saskatchawan River,
+there was so little snow before the middle of January, that the sledges
+could not be used; but at Bear Lake, and throughout the Mackenzie, the
+weather was severe during the same periods, and the snow came early;
+hence it would appear, that even in this climate the meteorological
+register kept at any one place, affords no index from whence we can
+judge of the season at another. In my journey from Slave Lake to the
+Athabasca we had a snow-storm for three days, which we found did not
+extend beyond sixty miles; and on our arrival at Fort Chipewyan, we
+learned there had not been a single shower during these days. The only
+coinciding circumstance, at the different stations this year, was the
+prevalence of north-east winds.
+
+[Sidenote: Sunday, 15th.] We welcomed the appearance of two of the
+large-sized swans on the 15th April, as the harbingers of spring; the
+geese followed on the 20th; the robins came on the 7th May; the house
+martins appeared on the 12th, and in the course of a week were busily
+employed repairing their nests; and the barn or forked-tail swallows
+arrived on the 20th; and on the same day, the small-sized swans were
+seen, which the traders consider the latest of the migratory birds.
+
+[Sidenote: May, 20th.] The only symptoms of reviving vegetation at this
+period, were a few anemones in flower, and the bursting of some catkins
+of willows; but we learned by an arrival of a boat from the Peace River
+that, even so early as the 14th, the trees were in full foliage at not
+more than a day's journey from the lake. The barley was sown at Fort
+Chipewyan on the 15th May, potatoes on the 21st, and the garden seeds on
+the 22d, which were expected to be ready for use by the close of the
+following September. As an experiment, whether the barley would yield a
+better crop by remaining in the ground through the winter, some had been
+sown in the preceding autumn, but only a few of the plants appeared at
+the close of this month, and the crop did not promise favourably.
+
+Some canoes having arrived on the 26th of May with the furs from Slave
+Lake, the last of the Company's brigade of boats was despatched to York
+Factory. Augustus, who was desirous of seeing Dr. Richardson again
+before his departure from the country, and two other men of the
+Expedition, embarked in them. I embarked on the 31st May in the
+Company's light canoe with Mr. Stewart and Mr. M'Vicar, having
+previously made the necessary arrangements for the passage of Captain
+Back and his party. We reached Cumberland House on the 18th June, where
+I had the happiness of meeting Dr. Richardson after a separation of
+eleven months. I learned from him that during our absence in the north,
+Mr. Drummond the Assistant Botanist had been indefatigable in collecting
+specimens of Natural History, having been sent for that purpose to the
+Rocky Mountains at the head of the Athabasca River; in the course of
+which service, he had been exposed to very great privations. To his
+perseverance and industry, science is indebted for the knowledge of
+several new and many rare quadrupeds, birds, and plants. That the reader
+may form some notion of the labour he sustained, and the zeal he
+displayed in making his very valuable and highly interesting
+collections, and to point out to the naturalist, the districts from
+whence they were brought, I subjoin his brief account of his journey in
+his own words.
+
+[Sidenote: 1825, June.] "I remained at Cumberland House about six weeks
+after the departure of Captain Back and Mr. Kendall, in June, 1825, when
+the Company's boats with the brigade of traders for the Columbia,
+arriving from York Factory, I accompanied them up the Saskatchawan River
+two hundred and sixty miles to Carlton House. The unsettled state of the
+Indians in that neighbourhood rendering excursions over the plains very
+unsafe, I determined on proceeding with the brigade as far as the Rocky
+Mountains. We left Carlton House on the 1st of September, and reached
+Edmonton, which is about four hundred miles distant on the 20th of the
+same month. Sandy plains extend without material alteration the whole
+way, and there is, consequently, little variety in the vegetation;
+indeed, I did not find a single plant that I had not seen within ten
+miles of Carlton House, although I had an opportunity of examining the
+country carefully, having performed the greater part of the journey on
+foot. After a halt of two days at Edmonton, we continued our route one
+hundred miles farther to Fort Assinaboyn on the Red Deer River, one of
+the branches of the Athapescow. This part of the journey was performed
+with horses through a swampy and thickly wooded country, and the path
+was so bad, that it was necessary to reduce the luggage as much as
+possible. I therefore took with me only one bale of paper for drying
+plants, a few shirts, and a blanket; Mr. M'Millan, one of the Company's
+chief traders, who had charge of the brigade, kindly undertaking to
+forward the rest of my baggage in the ensuing spring. [Sidenote:
+October, 2d.] We left Fort Assinaboyn to proceed up the Red Deer River
+to the Mountains, on the 2d of October; but the Canoe appointed for this
+service being very much lumbered, it was necessary that some of the
+party should travel by land, and of that number, I volunteered to be
+one. A heavy fall of snow, on the third day after setting out, rendered
+the march very fatiguing, and the country being thickly wooded and very
+swampy, our horses were rendered useless before we had travelled half
+the distance."
+
+"We reached the mountains on the 14th, and I continued to accompany the
+brigade, for fifty miles of the Portage-road, to the Columbia, when we
+met a hunter whom Mr. M'Millan hired to supply me with food during the
+winter. The same gentleman having furnished me with horses and a man to
+take care of them, I set out with the hunter and his family towards the
+Smoking River, one of the eastern branches of the Peace River, on which
+we intended to winter. [Sidenote: December.] My guide, however, loitered
+so much on the way, that the snow became too deep to admit of our
+proceeding to our destination, and we were under the necessity of
+leaving the Mountains altogether, and taking up our winter-quarters
+about the end of December, on the Baptiste, a stream which falls into
+the Red Deer River. During the journey, I collected a few specimens of
+the birds that pass the winter in the country, and which belong
+principally to the genera _tetrao_ and _strix_. I also obtained a few
+mosses, and on Christmas day, I had the pleasure of finding a very
+minute _gymnostomum_, hitherto undescribed."
+
+"In the winter, I felt the inconvenience of the want of my tent, the
+only shelter I had from the inclemency of the weather being a hut built
+of the branches of trees. Soon after reaching our wintering ground,
+provisions became very scarce, and the hunter and his family went off in
+quest of animals, taking with them the man who had charge of my horses
+to bring me a supply as soon as they could procure it. I remained alone
+for the rest of the winter, except when my man occasionally visited me
+with meat; and I found the time hang very heavy, as I had no books, and
+nothing could be done in the way of collecting specimens of Natural
+History. I took however, a walk every day in the woods to give me some
+practice in the use of snow shoes. The winter was very severe, and much
+snow fell until the end of March, when it averaged six feet in depth; in
+consequence of this, I lost one of my horses, and the two remaining ones
+became exceedingly poor. The hunter was still more unfortunate, ten of
+his young colts having died."
+
+[Sidenote: April 1826.] "In the beginning of April, 1826, setting out
+for the Columbia Portage road, I reached it after a fatiguing march on
+the sixth day, and two days afterwards, had the pleasure of meeting Mr.
+M'Millan, who brought me letters from Dr. Richardson, informing me of
+the welfare of the Expedition; and he also placed me in comparatively
+comfortable circumstances by bringing my tent, a little tea and sugar,
+and some more paper. [Sidenote: May, 6th.] I remained on the Portage
+preparing specimens of birds until the 6th of May, when the brigade from
+the Columbia arrived. On that day the _Anemone cuneifolia_, and
+_Ludoviciana_ and _Saxifraga oppositifolia_, began to flower in
+favourable situations. My hunter, who had, in the mean time, returned to
+our late wintering ground, now sent me word that he had changed his
+mind, and would not accompany me into the Mountains, as he had engaged
+to do. His fickleness deranged my plans, and I had no alternative but to
+remain with the man who had charge of the horses used on the Columbia
+Portage, and botanize in that neighbourhood."
+
+[Sidenote: August.] "On the 10th of August, I set out with another
+hunter, upon whom I had prevailed to conduct me to the Smoking River,
+although, being disappointed in a supply of ammunition, we were badly
+provided. We travelled for several days without meeting with any
+animals, and I shared the little dried provision which I had with the
+hunter's family. On the 15th we killed a Mountain sheep, which was
+quickly devoured, there not being the smallest apprehension at the time
+that famine would overtake us--day after day, however, passed away
+without a single head of game of any description being seen, and the
+children began to complain loudly; but the hunter's wife, a young
+half-breed woman, bore the abstinence with indifference, although she
+had two infant twins at the breast. On the 21st, we found two young
+porcupines, which were shared amongst the party, and two or three days
+afterwards, a few fine trout were caught. We arrived in the Smoking
+River on the 5th of September, where the hunter killed two sheep, and a
+period was put to our abstinence, for before the sheep were eaten, he
+shot several buffaloes."
+
+[Sidenote: September.] "We proceeded along the Mountains until the 24th
+of September, and had reached the head waters of the Peace River, when a
+heavy fall of snow stopped my collecting plants for that season. I was,
+however, very desirous of crossing the Mountains to obtain some
+knowledge of the vegetation on the Columbia River, and, accordingly, I
+commenced drying provisions to enable me to accompany the Columbia
+brigade, when it arrived from Hudson's Bay. [Sidenote: October.] I
+reached the Portage on the 9th of October, and on the 10th the brigade
+arrived, and I received letters from Captain Franklin, instructing me to
+descend in the spring of 1827, time enough to rejoin the Expedition on
+its way to York Factory. It was, therefore, necessary that I should
+speedily commence my return, and having gone with the brigade merely to
+the west-end of the Portage, I came back again on the 1st of November.
+The snow covered the ground too deeply to permit me to add much to my
+collections in this hasty trip over the Mountains, but it was impossible
+to avoid remarking the great superiority of climate on the western side
+of that lofty range. From the instant the descent toward the Pacific
+commences, there is a visible improvement in the growth of timber, and
+the variety of forest trees greatly increases. The few mosses that I
+gleaned in the excursion were so fine, that I could not but deeply
+regret that I was unable to pass a season or two in that interesting
+region."
+
+"Having packed up all my specimens, I embarked on the Red Deer River,
+with Mr. M'Donald, one of the Company's officers, who was returning from
+a long residence on the Columbia with his family, and continued to
+descend the stream until we were set fast by the frost. I then left Mr.
+M'Donald in the charge of the baggage, and, proceeding on foot to Fort
+Assinaboyn, for the purpose of procuring horses, I reached it on the
+fifth day. It was several days before the horses could be obtained, and
+they were several more in travelling from the Fort to Mr. M'Donald,
+during which time that gentleman and his family were very short of
+provisions. The relief, however, arrived opportunely, and they reached
+the Fort in safety. After resting a few days, I set out for Edmonton,
+where I remained for some months."
+
+[Sidenote: March.] "The winter express brought me a letter from Dr.
+Richardson, requesting me to join him at Carlton House in April, and I
+accordingly set out for that place on snow shoes, on the 17th of March,
+taking with me single specimens of all the plants gathered on the
+Mountains, lest any accident should happen to the duplicates which were
+to come by canoe in the spring. [Sidenote: April.] Two men with a sledge
+drawn by dogs accompanied me, but the Indian inhabitants of the plains
+being very hostile, we made a large circuit to avoid them, and did not
+reach Carlton House before the 5th of April. We suffered much from
+snow-blindness on the march, the dogs failed from want of food, we had
+to carry the baggage on our backs, and had nothing to eat for seven
+days. These sufferings were, however, soon forgotten in the kind welcome
+I received from Dr. Richardson, and Mr. Prudens, the Company's Chief
+Trader at Carlton, and the hospitable entertainment and good fare of the
+latter gentleman's table enabled me speedily to recruit my lost
+strength."
+
+"My collections on the Mountains amounted to about fifteen hundred
+species of plants, one hundred and fifty birds, fifty quadrupeds, and a
+considerable number of insects."
+
+[Sidenote: June.] There being yet two months in which Mr. Drummond might
+continue his researches, before Captain Back could arrive at Cumberland
+House, Dr. Richardson had left him on the Saskatchawan River.
+
+[Sidenote: 18th.] After remaining part of a day at Cumberland House, we
+proceeded on our journey, Dr. Richardson following in one of the
+Company's boats. I reached Norway House on the 24th of June, and Dr.
+Richardson on the third day after. Mr. Simpson, the resident Governor of
+the Company, was absent on urgent business at York Factory; but,
+previous to his departure, he had provided a canoe, and some additional
+men, with every other requisite for my journey. We found here Mr.
+Douglass, who had been sent to the Columbia River by the Horticultural
+Society, as a Collector of Natural History, and who had recently crossed
+the Rocky Mountains, for the purpose of proceeding to England from
+Hudson's Bay. This gentleman being desirous of occupying himself
+previous to the arrival of the ship, in making an addition to his
+collection from the neighbourhood of the Red River Colony, I felt happy
+in being able to give him a conveyance, in the canoe with Dr. Richardson
+and myself, through Lake Winipeg, to Fort Alexander, where he met
+another canoe that was going to the Colony.
+
+On quitting Norway House we took leave of our worthy companion,
+Augustus, who was to wait there until Captain Back should arrive. The
+tears which he shed at our parting, so unusual in those uncultivated
+tribes, showed the strength of his feelings, and I have no doubt, they
+proceeded from a sincere affection; an affection which, I can venture to
+say, was mutually felt by every individual. With great regret he learned
+that there was no immediate prospect of our again meeting, and he
+expressed a very strong desire to be informed, if another Expedition
+should be sent to any of the northern parts of America, whether by sea
+or land; and repeatedly assured me, that he and Ooligbuck would be ready
+at any time to quit their families and their country, to accompany any
+of their present officers, wherever the Expedition might be ordered.[16]
+
+We reached Fort Alexander on the 8th of July, and Mr. Douglass having
+left us, I was enabled to offer a passage, as far as Montreal, to
+Monsieur Picard, one of the clergymen attached to the Roman Catholic
+Mission at the Red River Colony. [Sidenote: August.] We arrived at
+Lachine, near Montreal, on the 18th of August, and were hospitably
+entertained by Mr. James Keith, Chief Factor, and Agent of the Hudson's
+Bay Company, with whom we remained five days, to settle the accounts of
+the Expedition. After I had paid my respects to his Excellency, the Earl
+of Dalhousie, Governor in Chief of Canada, we proceeded to New York by
+the way of Lake Champlain. In our passage through the United States, we
+received the same kind attentions we had before experienced; our
+personal baggage, and the collections of Natural History, were forwarded
+by the officers of the customs without examination, and every assistance
+we required was promptly rendered.
+
+[Sidenote: September.] Having embarked, in the packet ship, on the 1st
+of September, we reached Liverpool on the 26th, after an absence of two
+years, seven months and a half. Captain Back, Lieutenant Kendall, and
+Mr. Drummond, with the rest of the British party, arrived at Portsmouth
+on the 10th of October. I then received the distressing intelligence of
+the death of two excellent men, on their homeward passage from Bear Lake
+to York Factory; Archibald Stewart, who died from consumption; and
+Gustavus Aird, who was drowned in consequence of his jumping out of the
+boat, in his exertions to save her, when she was hurrying down the
+Pelican Fall, in Slave River. Until this account reached me, I had
+cherished the hope that our Expedition would have terminated without my
+having to record a single casualty. The loss of these men was the more
+deeply felt by me, from their uniform, steady, obedient, and meritorious
+conduct, which I had repeated opportunities of observing and admiring,
+while they were my companions in the Lion, during the voyage along the
+coast.
+
+I must be allowed to add, that in this long homeward journey, in which
+there were no fresh discoveries to be made, nor any of those excitements
+that relieve the monotony of constant labour, and in which they had to
+contend with a succession of dangerous rapids, there was the same
+masterly skill and exemplary conduct evinced by Captain Back and
+Lieutenant Kendall; and the same patient and ready obedience by the
+men[17], which had marked their whole conduct, while more immediately
+under my own observation.
+
+On my arrival in London, on the 29th of September, accompanied by Dr.
+Richardson, I had the honour of laying the charts and drawings before
+his Royal Highness the Lord High Admiral, and Mr. Secretary Huskisson;
+and, from the latter, I received directions to publish an account of our
+proceedings.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+In concluding this Narrative, I feel it incumbent on me to offer a few
+remarks on the subject of a _North-West Passage_, which, though it has
+not been the immediate object of the enterprises in which I have been
+engaged, is yet so intimately connected with them, as to have naturally
+excited in my mind, a strong and permanent interest. It is scarcely
+necessary to remark, that the opinion I ventured to express in my former
+work, as to the practicability of the passage[18], has been considerably
+strengthened by the information obtained during the present Expedition.
+The Northern Coast of America has now been actually surveyed from the
+meridian of 109 degrees to 149-1/2 degrees west; and again by the
+exertions of Captain Beechey, in His Majesty's ship the Blossom, from
+Icy Cape eastward to about 156 degrees west, leaving not more than fifty
+leagues of unsurveyed coast, between Point Turnagain and Icy Cape.
+Further, the delineation of the west side of Melville Peninsula, in the
+chart of Captain Parry's Second Voyage, conjoined with information which
+we obtained from the Northern Indians, fairly warrants the conclusion,
+that the coast preserves an easterly direction from Point Turnagain
+towards Repulse Bay; and that, in all probability, there are no
+insurmountable obstacles between this part of the Polar Sea and the
+extensive openings into the Atlantic, through Prince Regent Inlet and
+the Strait of the Fury and Hecla.
+
+Whenever it may be considered desirable to complete the delineation of
+the coast of the American Continent, I conceive that another attempt
+should be made to connect Point Turnagain with the important discoveries
+of Captain Parry, by renewing the Expedition which was undertaken by
+Captain Lyon, and which, but for the boisterous weather that disabled
+the Griper, must have long since repaid his well known zeal and
+enterprize with discoveries of very great interest.
+
+In considering the best means of effecting the North-West Passage in a
+ship, it has hitherto been impossible not to assent to the opinion so
+judiciously formed, and so convincingly stated, by Captain Parry, that
+the attempt should be made from the Atlantic rather than by Behring's
+Straits, because the enterprise is then commenced after a voyage of
+short duration, subject to comparatively few vicissitudes of climate,
+and with the equipments thoroughly effective. But important as these
+advantages are, they may, perhaps, be more than balanced by some
+circumstances which have been brought to light by our Expedition. The
+prevalence of north-west winds during the season that the ice is in the
+most favourable state for navigation, would greatly facilitate the
+voyage of a ship to the eastward, whilst it would be equally adverse to
+her progress in the opposite direction. It is also well known, that the
+coast westward of the Mackenzie is almost unapproachable by ships, and
+it would, therefore, be very desirable to get over that part of the
+voyage in the first season. Though we did not observe any such easterly
+current as was found by Captain Parry in the Fury and Hecla Strait, as
+well as by Captain Kotzebue, on his voyage through Behring's Straits;
+yet this may have arisen from our having been confined to the navigation
+of the flats close to the shore; but if such a current does exist
+throughout the Polar Sea, it is evident that it would materially assist
+a ship commencing the undertaking from the Pacific, and keeping in the
+deep water, which would, no doubt, be found at a moderate distance from
+the shore.
+
+The closeness and quantity of the ice in the Polar Seas vary much in
+different years; but, should it be in the same state that we found it, I
+would not recommend a ship's leaving Icy Cape earlier than the middle of
+August, for after that period the ice was not only broken up within the
+sphere of our vision, but a heavy swell rolling from the northward,
+indicated a sea unsheltered by islands, and not much encumbered by ice.
+By quitting Icy Cape at the time specified, I should confidently hope to
+reach a secure wintering place to the eastward of Cape Bathurst, in the
+direct route to the Dolphin and Union Straits, through which I should
+proceed.[19] If either, or both, of the plans which I have suggested be
+adopted, it would add to the confidence and safety of those who
+undertake them, if one or two depots of provisions were established in
+places of ready access, through the medium of the Hudson's Bay Company.
+
+Arctic discovery has been fostered principally by Great Britain; and it
+is a subject of just pride that it has been prosecuted by her from
+motives as disinterested as they are enlightened; not from any prospect
+of immediate benefit to herself, but from a steady view to the
+acquirement of useful knowledge, and the extension of the bounds of
+science. Each succeeding attempt has added a step towards the completion
+of northern geography; and the contributions to natural history and
+science have excited a general interest throughout the civilized world.
+It is, moreover, pleasing to reflect that the loss of life which has
+occurred in the prosecution of these discoveries does not exceed the
+average number of deaths in the same population at home under
+circumstances the most favourable. And it is sincerely to be hoped that
+Great Britain will not relax her efforts until the question of a
+north-west passage has been satisfactorily set at rest, or at least
+until those portions of the northern shores of America, which are yet
+unknown, be laid down in our maps; and which with the exception of a
+small space on the Asiatic continent eastward of Shelatskoi Noss, are
+the only intervals wanting to complete the outline of Europe, Asia, and
+America.
+
+END OF THE NARRATIVE.
+
+_Summary of the Distances travelled by the Expedition, from its Landing
+in America, until its Embarkation._
+
+                                                        _Statute Miles._
+  Distance travelled in 1825, as given in page 60                  5,803
+  Dr. Richardson and Mr. Kendall's excursion on the ice to
+  the eastern parts of Bear Lake, in the Spring of 1826              359
+  Distance travelled by the Western Party in 1826
+  (given in p. 235.)                                               2,048
+  Distance travelled by the Eastern Party in 1826, after
+  its separation from the Western Party                            1,455
+  Return from Fort Franklin to New York                            4,000
+  Captain Back and Lieutenant Kendall's journey to York
+  Factory, after quitting Captain Franklin's route                   520
+                                                                  ------
+  Distance travelled by the Expedition in going and returning,
+  including the excursions of detached parties                    14,185
+                                                                  ------
+  Number of miles surveyed and laid down in the maps, but not
+  all included under the head of discoveries, because the
+  routes have been traversed by Traders                            5,000
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[15] Notwithstanding the severity of the weather, we had great
+difficulty in causing these animals to depart from their usual custom of
+sleeping in the snow, and in inducing them to occupy the warm houses
+which were built for them.
+
+[16] I have pleasure in mentioning that, by permission of Government,
+the pay which was due to Augustus and Ooligbuck, has been delivered to
+the Directors of the Hudson's Bay Company, who have undertaken to
+distribute it to them annually, in the way suited to their wants.
+
+[17] I am happy to add, that those men who had been in His Majesty's
+service before the present Expedition, have been rewarded by promotion.
+
+[18] See page 388.
+
+[19] See Dr. Richardson's opinion in favour of this route, p. 218.
+
+
+
+
+APPENDIX.
+
+TOPOGRAPHICAL AND GEOLOGICAL NOTICES, BY JOHN RICHARDSON, M.D., F.R.S.,
+&c. SURGEON AND NATURALIST TO THE EXPEDITION.
+
+[_Read before the Geological Society._]
+
+
+A very limited portion of my time could be allotted to geological
+inquiries. For eight months in the year the ground in the northern parts
+of America is covered with snow; and during the short summer, the
+prosecution of the main object of the expedition rendered the slightest
+delay in our journey unadvisable. The few hours that could be stolen
+from the necessary halts, for rest and refreshment, were principally
+occupied in the collection of objects for the illustration of botany
+and zoology. It is evident, that an account of the rock formations,
+drawn up under such circumstances, cannot be otherwise than very
+imperfect; but I have been led to publish it from the belief that, in
+the absence of more precise information, even the slightest notice of
+the rocks of the extreme northern parts of the American continent would
+be useful to those employed in developing the structure of the crust of
+the earth; the more especially, as it is not probable that the same
+tract of country will soon be trod by an expert geologist. The specimens
+of rocks I obtained have been deposited in the Museum of the Geological
+Society, and are referred to in the ensuing pages by the numbers affixed
+to them. The notices are arranged nearly in the order of the route of
+the expedition, commencing with Great Bear Lake, where our winter
+quarters were situated.
+
+
+GREAT BEAR LAKE.
+
+Great Bear Lake is an extensive sheet of water, of a very irregular
+shape, being formed by the union of five arms or bays in a common
+centre. The greatest diameter of the lake, measuring about one hundred
+and fifty geographical miles, runs from the bottom of Dease Bay, which
+receives the principal feeding stream, to the bottom of Keith Bay, from
+whence the Bear Lake River issues, and has a direction from N.E. to S.W.
+The transverse diameter has a direction from N.W. by W. to S.E. by E.,
+through Smith and M'Tavish Bays, and is upwards of one hundred and
+twenty miles in length. M'Vicar Bay, the fifth arm of the lake, is
+narrower than the others, and being a little curved at its mouth,
+appears less connected with the main body of water. The light
+bluish-coloured water of Great Bear Lake is every where transparent, and
+is particularly clear near some primitive mountains, which exist in
+M'Tavish Bay. A piece of white rag, let down there, did not disappear
+until it descended fifteen fathoms. The depth of water, in the centre of
+the lake was not ascertained; but it is known to be very considerable.
+Near the shore, in M'Tavish Bay, forty-five fathoms of line did not
+reach the bottom. Owing to the barometers supplied to the expedition
+having been broken in an early period of its progress, the height of the
+surface of Bear Lake above the Arctic Sea could not be ascertained; but
+it is, probably, short of two hundred feet.[20] If this supposition
+comes near the truth, the bottom of M'Tavish Bay is below the level of
+the sea, and towards the centre of the basin of the lake the depression
+is probably still greater. The great lakes, Huron, Michigan, and
+Superior, which discharge their waters into the St. Lawrence, are
+reported to sink three hundred feet below the level of the ocean; and
+the Lake of the Mountains, or Chipewyan Lake and Great Slave Lake,[21]
+through which the Mackenzie flows, have, it is highly probable, some
+portions of their beds below the sea level.
+
+In the autumn of 1825, I coasted the western and northern shores of the
+Great Bear Lake; and in the spring of 1826, travelled on the ice along
+its eastern and southern arms, leaving no part of its shores unexamined
+on these two surveys, except the north side of M'Tavish Bay. I did not,
+however, on these occasions, make excursions inland.
+
+
+PRIMITIVE ROCKS.--GREAT BEAR LAKE.
+
+At the south-east corner of M'Tavish Bay, primitive rocks form a hilly
+range which, at the distance of a mile or two from the shore, attains
+an elevation of eight hundred or one thousand feet. The steep face of
+the range forms the shore of the lake for fifteen miles, and perhaps
+further, on a direction from N.W. by W. to S.E. by E., and is prolonged
+on the latter bearing, at the back of the lower country lying towards
+Point Leith. The general form of the hills is obtuse-conical, in some
+instances approaching to dome-shaped. None of them rise much above the
+others, and the vallies between them are seldom wide or deep. At a
+distance, some of the masses of rock appear round-backed; and in certain
+points of view, the crest of the ridge seems to consist of mammillary
+peaks. On a nearer approach, the individual hills are found to be
+composed of rounded eminences, having summits, generally, of an oblong
+form, and consisting of smooth, naked rock. Small mural precipices are
+frequent, and many detached blocks of stone lie beneath them. Between
+the eminences, there are level spots destitute of vegetation, and
+covered with small stones or gravel not much worn. A considerable
+portion of the gravel is granite or quartz, the debris, perhaps, of the
+rocks, of which the hills consist; it contains also some pieces of
+slate, and not a few of quartzose sandstone, neither of which I observed
+_in situ_. In the course of a walk of two miles over these hills, the
+only rock I observed was granite, verging in a few places towards
+gneiss, and generally whitish, with black mica. Sometimes the felspar is
+brownish-red, and the rock not unfrequently contains disseminated
+augite? The weathered surface of the stone was every where of a
+brick-red colour. In many spots the rocks split into such thin slaty
+looking tables that they have the appearance of being stratified. The
+slaty masses are, generally, vertical; but in one hill they were
+observed dipping 80 degrees to the south-east. The direction of the
+tabular masses is mostly across the oblong summits of the hills. The
+appearances of stratification were not observed to extend through a
+whole hill, and seemed, in fact, to be confined to the more decomposable
+granites; but the naked rocks are every where traversed by smooth
+fissures. The blocks, which lie under the cliffs, have sometimes a
+tabular form, but more generally come nearer to a cube or rhomboid, and
+present one or two very even faces. Few veins were noticed. In the more
+sheltered vallies, some clumps of white or black spruce trees occur; but
+the hills are barren.
+
+The point of land which lies between M'Tavish and M'Vicar Bays has low
+shores; but five or six miles inland, an even-backed ridge rises
+gradually to the height of three or four hundred feet, and abuts
+obliquely against the primitive hills. I did not visit this ridge, and
+the snow prevented me from seeing any flat beds of rocks, if such exist
+on the shore. On one point, however, near the north end of Dease Bay,
+many large angular blocks of whitish dolomite were piled up, and I have
+little doubt of the rock existing _in situ_ in that immediate
+neighbourhood.
+
+M'Tavish Bay is forty miles long, and twenty wide, and its depth of
+water, near the eastern shore, exceeds forty-five fathoms. Some shoals
+of boulders skirt the coast near Point Leith. M'Vicar Bay is about
+seventy miles long, and from eight to twelve wide; and at the "fishery,"
+in a narrow part, not far from its bottom, its depth of water, two miles
+from the shore, is twelve fathoms. Dease Bay is equal to M'Tavish Bay in
+extent, and opens to the S.W. into the body of the lake. The high lands
+at the N.E. end, or bottom of this bay, have an even outline, and appear
+to attain an elevation of eight or nine hundred feet, at the distance of
+six or seven miles from the shore. Near its east side lie the lofty
+islands of Narrakazzae which rise seven hundred feet above the lake.
+Dease River, the principal feeder of the lake, falls into the bottom of
+Dease Bay. It is two hundred yards wide, and from one to three fathoms
+deep near its mouth. A few miles up this river a formation of soft red
+sandstone occurs, which will be noticed hereafter.
+
+
+LIMESTONE.--GREAT BEAR LAKE.
+
+[Sidenote: 228*] At the mouth of Dease river there are hills five or six
+hundred feet high, composed principally, or entirely, of dolomite in
+horizontal strata. Some of the beds consist of a thick-slaty,
+fine-grained dolomite, containing dispersed scales of mica, which is
+most abundant on the surfaces of the slates. [Sidenote: 228] Most of the
+beds, however, consist of a thin-slaty, dull, purplish dolomite,
+traversed by veins of calc-spar. The structure of this rock is compact,
+approaching to fine granular; and some of the beds have what quarry-men
+term "clay-facings," that is, they are encrusted with a thin film of
+indurated clay.
+
+Greenstone slate? occurs in horizontal beds on the north shore, eight or
+nine miles to the westward of Dease River: and at Limestone Point,[22]
+about twenty miles from the river, a small range of hills terminates on
+the borders of the lake, in shelving, broken cliffs, about two hundred
+feet high. These cliffs consist chiefly of nearly compact light-coloured
+dolomite, interstratified with greenstone, and a brownish-red limestone,
+such as occurs in the hills at the mouth of the Dease River. In contact
+with the greenstone, there is a bed of talcose limestone, having a
+curved, slaty structure; most of the beds of dolomite are hard, and pass
+into chert.
+
+
+ALUMINOUS SHALE.--GREAT BEAR LAKE.
+
+The north shore of Bear Lake is low, and is skirted by many shoals,
+formed by boulders of limestone. No rocks, _in situ_, are exposed
+between Limestone Point and the Scented Grass Hill, a remarkable
+promontory, which separates Smith and Keith bays. Its height above the
+lake is betwixt eight and nine hundred feet, and in form and altitude it
+corresponds with the Great Bear Mountain, which, lying opposite to it,
+separates M'Vicar and Keith bays. I did not ascend either of these
+hills; but cliffs, corresponding in character to those of the aluminous
+shale-banks at Whitby, flank their bases; and the same formation
+probably extends along the north shore of Keith Bay, and some way down
+Bear Lake River. The ground skirting the Scented Grass and Great Bear
+Mountains is much broken, and consists of small, rounded and steep
+eminences, separated by narrow vallies and small lakes. Several shelving
+cliffs, about one hundred feet high, and some miles in extent are washed
+by Bear Lake. [Sidenote: 251] They consist of slate-clay and shale, more
+or less bituminous, and the dip of the strata is in several places to
+the N.W. by N. [Sidenotes: 244, 246, 247] At the foot of the Scented
+Grass Hill a rivulet has made a section to the depth of one hundred
+feet, and here the shaly beds are interstratified with thin layers of
+blackish-brown, earthy-looking swinestone, containing selenite and
+pyrites. Globular concretions of the same stone, and of a poor clay
+iron-stone, also occur in beds in the shale. [Sidenotes: 249, 250, 248]
+The surfaces of the slates were covered with an efflorescence of alum
+and sulphur. Many crystals of sulphate of iron lie at the bottom of the
+cliff, and several layers of plumose alum, half an inch thick, occur in
+the strata. At the base of Great Bear Mountain, the bituminous shale is
+interstratified with slate-clay, and I found imbedded in the former a
+single piece of brown coal, in which the fibrous structure of wood is
+apparent. Sections of slate-clay banks, and more rarely of bituminous
+shale, occur in several places on the north shore of Keith Bay. In one
+place, about seven or eight miles from Bear Lake River, a bed of plastic
+and bituminous clay occurs, and in another, near Fort Franklin, there is
+a deposit of an earthy coal, which possesses the characters of _black
+chalk_.
+
+It is probable that a magnesian limestone underlies this formation of
+bituminous shale. I have already mentioned the beds of dolomite, which
+are exposed on the north side of Bear Lake, and similar beds occur to
+the southward of the Great Bear Mountain, forming cliffs on the shores
+of M'Vicar Bay. At Manito Point, on the west side of the isthmus that
+connects Great Bear Mountain to the main shore, a low ridge of limestone
+rocks terminates on the borders of the lake, forming some bold cliffs
+and a remarkable cave. The stone has a gray colour and bituminous smell,
+and contains much interspersed calc-spar. The strata dip to the
+north-west.
+
+
+VICINITY OF FORT FRANKLIN, GREAT BEAR LAKE.
+
+Fort Franklin stands on the northern shore of Keith Bay, about four
+miles from Bear Lake River, upon a small terrace, which is elevated
+twenty-five or thirty feet above the lake. The bay, contracting towards
+the river, is about four miles wide opposite to the fort, and the depth
+of water there does not exceed four fathoms. Farther from the river, the
+east and west shores of Keith Bay recede to the distance of thirty miles
+from each other, and the depth of water in the centre of the channel
+greatly increases. The bottom of this bay, wherever it could be
+distinguished, was observed to be sandy, and thickly strewed with round
+boulders[23] of various primitive rocks of large size, which were
+particularly abundant near the river, and with large square blocks of
+limestone, most plentiful near the cape formed by the Scented Grass
+Hill. In the small bay between the fort and the river, shoals are formed
+by accumulations of boulders, and the shores are thickly strewed with
+them. [Sidenote: 261 to 308] Many of these travelled blocks consist of
+flesh-red granite, having only a small quantity of black mica, exactly
+resembling the primitive rocks seen in M'Tavish Bay, but noticed no
+where else near the lake. Boulders of the same description occur in
+shoals at the mouth of M'Tavish Bay, and on the shores which skirt the
+Scented Grass Hill which faces that bay, to all which places they may
+have been brought from the parent rock, by a current flowing from the
+east. On the northern shore of Bear Lake the great majority of the
+boulders consists of limestone. [Sidenote: 266 282] Two varieties of
+granite, which occur amongst the boulders, were recognised as being
+abundant rocks at Fort Enterprise, which is situated about one hundred
+and seventy miles south-east from M'Tavish Bay. Some of the boulders
+were of a peculiar-looking porphyry exactly resembling that which occurs
+in the height of land betwixt the Coppermine River and Dease Bay;
+several of sandstone and conglomerate, which probably came from the same
+quarter; of greenstone, perhaps, from the Copper Mountains, and of
+limestone from the northern shores of the lake, and from the isthmus of
+the Great Bear Mountain; all these places lying to the eastward or
+north-east.
+
+The soil in the immediate vicinity of Fort Franklin is sandy, or
+gravelly, and covers, to the depth of one or two feet, a bed of clay of
+unknown thickness. Gravel taken from a spot thirty feet above the
+present high-water level of the lake, and out of the reach of any stream
+or torrent, contained rounded pebbles of granite, of greenstone, of
+quartz rock, of lydian stone, and of various sandstones, of which some
+were spotted, and others presented zones of different colours. These
+sandstones form a considerable portion of the gravel.[24]
+
+The clay which lies under the soil is of a bluish-gray colour, and is
+plastic but not very tenacious. It is more or less mixed with gravel.
+During the greater part of the year it is firmly frozen; the thaw in the
+two seasons we remained there never penetrating more than twenty-one
+inches from the surface of the earth. In spots where the sandy soil is
+wanting, the clay is covered a foot deep, or more, by mosses, mostly
+_bryum palustre_, and some marsh _hypna_ and _dicrana_, in a living
+state, for they seem to be converted very slowly into peat in this
+climate.
+
+The ground rises gradually behind the fort, until it attains, at the
+distance of half a mile from the lake, the height of two hundred feet,
+forming, when viewed from the southward, an even ridge, running nearly
+east and west--which ridge is, in fact, the high bank of the lake, as it
+corresponds in height with the summit level of the banks of Bear Lake
+River, and of the southern shore of Keith Bay. The country extending to
+the northward, from the top of the bank, is nearly level, or has a very
+gentle ascent for about five miles, when a more abrupt ridge rises to
+perhaps three hundred or four hundred feet above the lake. The view from
+the summit of this second eminence is very extensive, the whole country
+as far as the eye can reach appearing to be a level, from which several
+narrow precipitous ridges of limestone arise. But, although the country
+around these ridges appears from a distance to be level, or very
+slightly undulated, yet it abounds in small eminences and steep-sided
+vallies of various shapes, some being rounded and basin-shaped, others
+long and narrow. Lakes and swamps are here so numerous, that the
+country, for at least sixty miles to the northward, is impassable in
+summer, even to the natives. There are many mounds of sand and gravel,
+and fragments of sandstone are frequent; but having travelled in this
+direction only in winter, when the ground was covered to the depth of
+upwards of three feet with snow, I had not an opportunity of examining
+its geological structure. White spruces cover the drier spots; larches,
+black spruces, and willows abound in moist places; the sandy hillocks
+are clothed with aspens, and the sides of the vallies support some canoe
+birches, with a thick undergrowth of dwarf birches, alders, and
+rose-bushes. The eminence from whence the view just described was
+obtained, appears like a ridge only in approaching it from the lake, for
+it rises very little above the general level of the country behind it.
+It has a direction from N.W. by N. to S.E. by S., and terminates about
+eight miles to the eastward of the fort, in a small bluff point on the
+shores of the lake and there the strata consist of slate-clay slightly
+bituminous. The banks immediately behind the fort also exhibit, in their
+ravines, a bluish slate-clay.
+
+The land on the south side, or bottom, of Keith Bay, presents a nearly
+similar aspect to that just described, rising, on the borders of the
+lake, to the height of one hundred and fifty feet, and then running back
+to a great distance nearly level. It may be characterized as full of
+hollows, narrow vallies, ravines, and lakes; but it is not hilly,
+although it is traversed by ridges of limestone, which rise like walls
+through the flat country. The nearest of these ridges terminates on the
+borders of the lake at the _Manito Point_, (noticed in page vii.) It may
+be proper to remark here, that, in addition to the limestone ridges
+visible from Fort Franklin, or from the heights behind it, the summit of
+Clark Hill, bearing south, and forming part of a ridge about fifty miles
+distant, was distinctly seen. This hill lies behind Old Fort Norman on
+the Mackenzie, and has more the outline of a granitic rock, although
+some of the peaks which skirt it have the serrated crests which the
+limestone ridges in this quarter show. It was guessed to be 1500 feet
+high above the Mackenzie.
+
+This sketch of the general features of the country about Fort Franklin
+being premised, the ensuing geological notices follow in the order of
+the route of the Expedition.
+
+
+BEAR LAKE RIVER--SANDSTONE, LIMESTONE.
+
+Bear Lake River is about seventy miles long, from its origin in the lake
+till it falls into the Mackenzie, and throughout its whole length, its
+breadth is never less than one hundred and fifty yards, except at the
+_Rapid_, a remarkable place, about the middle of its course. It is from
+one to three fathoms deep, and very rapid, its velocity being estimated
+at six miles in the hour. Its waters are clear as they issue from the
+lake, but several branches of considerable size bring down muddy water,
+particularly one which flows from the north, and falls in below the
+rapid.
+
+Above the rapid, the valley of the river is very narrow, the banks every
+where sloping steeply from the level of the country. Their summit line,
+which is nearly straight, is about one hundred and fifty feet above the
+bed of the river. In some places they have an even face elevated at an
+angle of about forty-five degrees, and they are not unfrequently cut by
+ravines into pretty regular figures, resembling hay-ricks, or the
+parapet of a fort, the ravines representing the embrasures. Sections
+made by the river presented generally sand or clay; the sand probably
+proceeding from the disintegration of a friable, gray sandstone, which
+showed itself occasionally in a more solid form. The rapidity of our
+voyage, however, afforded us little opportunity of searching for the
+solid strata which are generally hid by the debris of the bank. About
+twelve miles above the rapid, a small-grained, friable sandstone, of a
+yellowish gray colour, and irregular earthy fracture, is associated with
+beds of bluish-gray slate-clay. These beds consist of concretions of
+various sizes and irregular shapes, but which may be said to approach in
+general to a depressed orbicular form; their surfaces are coloured
+purplish-brown by iron, and studded with crystals of sulphate of lime.
+This slate-clay contains many small round grains of quartz, and is
+exactly similar to that which occurs at the rapid, and which will be
+afterwards noticed. In other places the banks are covered by the debris
+of a slate-clay slightly bituminous, resembling wacke in its mode of
+disintegrating.
+
+The _Rapid_ is caused by the river struggling through a chasm bounded by
+two perpendicular walls of sandstone, over an uneven bed of the same
+material. On escaping from this narrow passage, it winds round the end
+of a lofty cliff of limestone, which forms part of a ridge that is
+continued through the country on both sides of the river.
+
+Viewed from the summit of this ridge, which rises about eight hundred
+feet above the river, the country towards Bear Lake appears level. The
+view down the river presents also a plain country, bounded on the
+Mackenzie by another limestone ridge, which, unless the eye was deceived
+by the distance, gradually inclined to the one at the rapid, and
+appeared, by joining it to the northward, to form a great basin. These
+ridges are also prolonged to the southward. The plain is covered with
+wood, intersected by chains of lakes, and seemed to lie rather below the
+summit level of the banks of Bear Lake River. It is only comparatively,
+that the country deserves the name of plain, for its surface is much
+varied by depressions, ravines, and small eminences, that do not,
+however, destroy the general level appearance when seen from a distance.
+The view from the hill is terminated, to the westward, by the distant
+chain of the Rocky Mountains, running nearly N.W. by N. A little below
+the rapid, a small stream from the southward flows into the Bear Lake
+River, near whose sources the Indians procure an excellent common salt,
+which is deposited from the springs by spontaneous evaporation.
+
+The walls of the rapid are about three miles long, and 120 feet high.
+[Sidenote: 25] They are composed of horizontal beds, the lower of which
+consist of an earthy-looking stone, intermediate between slate-clay and
+sandstone, having interiorly a dull yellowish-gray colour. Concretions,
+with smooth surfaces, about the thickness of a swan's quill, pass
+perpendicularly through the beds like pins, are prolonged beyond the
+partings, and bear some resemblance to portions of the roots or branches
+of a tree. The seam surfaces are very uneven. [Sidenote: 18] These beds
+are parted by thin, slaty layers, of a stone similar in appearance, but
+rather harder, and containing many interspersed scales of mica, and also
+some minute portions of carbonaceous matter in the form of lignite.
+[Sidenotes: 19, 1827] The thin layers contain impressions of ferns, and
+from the debris at the bottom of the cliff I gathered impressions of the
+bark of a tree (lepidodendron) and some ammonites in a brown iron-shot
+sandstone.[25] [Sidenote: 18, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 26, 27, 28] The upper
+beds are composed of a fine grained, quartzose, gray sandstone, having
+an earthy basis, and occasionally interspersed carbonaceous matter. Some
+of the beds are a foot and a half thick, and have sufficient tenacity to
+be fitted for making grindstones; most of the sandstone is, however,
+rather friable. Near the summit there is interposed a bed of
+fine-grained dolomite, and a friable sandstone, which forms the crest of
+the cliff, and exhibits in its weathering battlement-shaped projections
+and pinnacles. [Sidenote: 29] Covering this sandstone, but not quite to
+the margin of the cliff, there is a layer of slaty limestone, having a
+bluish or blackish-gray colour, a dull fracture, and rather compact
+structure. [Sidenote: 30] In the lower beds of the cliff there are some
+globular and disk-shaped concretions, of an indurated iron-shot
+slate-clay, or poor clay-iron-stone, containing pyrites. They vary in
+magnitude from six inches to a foot and a half in diameter, and appear
+to be formed of concentric layers, which are rendered apparent by the
+weathering of the stone. The sandstones and shales of the rapid have a
+strong resemblance in appearance to those of the coal measures; but
+pitch-coal was not detected at this place. Several distinct concretions
+of indurated slate-clay, assuming the appearance termed _cone in cone_,
+were picked up among the boulders on the banks of Bear Lake River, some
+way below the rapid, but they were not traced to their parent beds. They
+effervesce with acids.
+
+Between the walls of the rapid and the limestone ridge there is a piece
+of meadow-ground, having a soft, clayey soil, in which, near the base of
+the hill, a small rivulet flows to join the river. The bed of this
+rivulet presents accumulations of boulders of large size, arranged so as
+to form two terraces, the upper of which is considerably above the
+highest level either of the rivulet, or of Bear Lake River. The boulders
+consist of varieties of granite, gneiss, mica-slate with garnets,
+greenstone and porphyry. [Sidenote: 50] One of the porphyries is a
+beautiful stone, composed of hyacinth-red felspar, and irregular
+crystals of milky quartz, with a few specks of a dark green mineral,
+and very much resembles a rock which is not uncommon in the gneiss
+districts about Fort Enterprize. [Sidenotes: 45, 47, 50, 51, 49] Many of
+the boulders consist of conglomerates and sandstones that strongly
+resemble those of the old red sandstone formation, which forms the
+height of land between Dease Bay and Coppermine rivers. Also some flinty
+slates, mixed, in thin layers, with compact, yellowish limestone, and
+some pebbles of jasper interleaved with flinty slate.
+
+The limestone ridge below the rapid stands on a narrow base, whose
+transverse diameter does not exceed a quarter of a mile. Its summits are
+generally conical, but very rugged and craggy; the highest peak I had an
+opportunity of visiting is about a mile from Bear Lake River, and it has
+been already stated to be estimated at eight hundred feet above that
+stream, or nine hundred and fifty above the sea. The general direction
+of the ridge is from S.E. by S. to N.W. by N., or nearly parallel to the
+great Rocky Mountain chain, and to the smaller ridges betwixt it and
+that chain. Its prolongation through the flat surrounding strata, to the
+southward of Bear Lake River, can be traced for at least forty miles,
+and it is visible at nearly an equal distance, as it runs through the
+still more level country to the northward; but here, as has been already
+said, it appears to incline towards the similar ridge which is cut by
+the Mackenzie, at the mouth of the Bear Lake River, and is about
+twenty-five miles to the W.S.W., in a direct line. That part of the
+ridge which I had an opportunity of visiting, consisted entirely of
+limestone, generally in thick beds. Its stratification was not very
+evident, and in my very cursory examination the general dip was not
+clearly ascertained. A precipitous cliff, four hundred feet high, facing
+the S.E., and washed by the Bear Lake River, presents strata, inclined
+to the S.W. at an angle of 45 degrees, which may be perhaps considered
+as the general dip; for the ridge on that side slopes down to the
+surrounding country at an angle of about 30 degrees or 40 degrees, while
+on the N.E. side it presents lofty precipices formed by the cropping out
+of the strata. [Sidenote: 39, 34] Many of the beds in this hill
+consisted of a blackish-gray fine grained limestone, intersected by
+veins of calc-spar; [Sidenotes: 40; 35, 36; 42, 43, 44] but several
+layers of gray and dark coloured dolomites, and some of a yellowish-gray
+_rauchwacke_, were interstratified with them, and the upper parts of the
+precipitous cliff, [Sidenote: 35, 36] and also of the highest peak,
+consisted of a calcareous breccia, containing rounded pieces of brown
+limestone, and angular fragments of chert; and the faces of some
+cliffs, on the N.E. side of the hill, were incrusted with a fine
+crystalline gypsum to the depth of from one to two feet.[26]
+
+The banks of Bear Lake River below the rapid have a more gentle
+declivity than those above it, and they occasionally recede from the
+stream, so as to leave a grassy slope varying from a few yards to half a
+mile in breadth. The sections of these banks by torrents present only
+sand or clay; and the hollows of the ravines are lined with boulders
+principally of primitive rocks. No stone was observed _in situ_ from the
+rapid until we came to the junction of the river with the Mackenzie.
+
+The Bear Lake River flows into the Mackenzie at a right angle, and on
+its north bank, at its mouth, there is a hill, which has been already
+noticed as forming part of a ridge visible from the one at the rapid,
+with which it probably unites to form a great basin. These two hills
+seem to belong to the same formation. [Sidenote: 61, 62, 60] The body of
+the hill consists of highly-inclined beds of blackish-gray limestone,
+with sparry veins, and of brownish-gray dolomite, which cannot be
+distinguished in hand specimens from that of the hill at the rapid. The
+superior beds are formed of a calcareous breccia.[27] [Sidenote: 57,
+58, 59, 63, 64, 65] Associated with these strata, however, there are
+beds of limestone, highly charged with bitumen; and at the base of the
+hill there are beds of bituminous shale, some of which effervesce with
+acids, whilst others approach in hardness, and other characters, to
+flinty slate. These shaly beds were seen by Captain Franklin and Mr.
+Kendall in autumn 1825, and they also saw, at that time, some
+sulphureous springs and streams of mineral pitch issuing from the lower
+parts of the limestone strata: but the whole of them were hid by the
+height of the waters of the Mackenzie in the spring of 1826.[28]
+[Sidenote: 69, 66, 67, 68] The same cause prevented me from seeing some
+beds of lignite and sandstone, at the same place, of which Captain
+Franklin obtained specimens.
+
+
+LIGNITE FORMATION.--MACKENZIE'S RIVER.
+
+Having noticed the general features of this portion of the river, I have
+next to state, that the formation constituting its banks may be
+characterized as consisting of wood-coal in various states, alternating
+with beds of pipe-clay, potter's clay, which is sometimes bituminous,
+slate-clay, gravel, sand, and friable sandstones, and occasionally with
+porcelain earth. The strata are generally horizontal, and as many as
+four beds of lignite are exposed in some parts, the upper of which are
+above the level of the highest river-floods of the present day.
+
+The _lignite_, when recently detached from the beds, is pretty compact,
+but soon splits into rhomboidal pieces, which again separate into slates
+more or less fine. It burns with a very fetid smell, somewhat resembling
+that of phosphorus, with little smoke or flame, leaving a brownish-red
+ash, not one-tenth of the original bulk of the coal. The blacksmith
+found it unfit for welding iron when used alone, but it answered when
+mixed with charcoal, although the stench it created was a great
+annoyance. [Sidenote: 48] Different beds, and even different parts of
+the same bed, presented specimens of the fibrous brown-coal, earth-coal,
+conchoidal brown-coal, and trapezoidal brown-coal of Jameson. Some of
+the pieces have the external appearance of compact bitumen, but they
+generally exhibit, in the cross fracture, the fibrous structure of wood
+in concentric layers, apparently much compressed. Other specimens have a
+strong external resemblance to charcoal in structure, colour, and
+lustre. A frequent form of the lignite is that of slate, of a dull,
+brownish-black colour, but yielding a shining streak. The slate is
+composed of fragments, resembling charred wood, united together by a
+paste of more comminuted woody matter, mixed, perhaps, with a small
+portion of clay. In the paste there are some transparent crystals of
+sulphate of lime, and occasionally some minute portions of a substance
+like resin. These shaly beds bear a strong resemblance to peat, not only
+in structure but also in the mode of burning, and in the light whitish
+ashes which are left. The external shape of stems or branches of trees,
+is best preserved in some fragments impregnated with slate-clay, and
+occasionally with siliceous matter, which occur imbedded in the coal.
+The bark of these pieces has been converted into lignite. Some of them
+exhibit knots, such as occur where a branch has decayed, and others
+represent the twists and contortions of wood of stunted growth. The
+lignite is generally penetrated by fibrous roots, probably
+_rhizomorpha_, which insinuate their ramifications into every crevice.
+
+The beds of lignite appear to take fire spontaneously when exposed to
+the atmosphere. They were burning when Sir Alexander Mackenzie passed
+down the river in 1789, and have been on fire, in some part or other of
+the formation, ever since. In consequence of the destruction of the
+coal, large slips of the bank take place, and it is only where the
+debris has been washed away by the river that good sections are visible.
+The beds were on fire when we visited them, and the burnt clays,
+vitrified sand, agglutinated gravel, &c. gave many spots the appearance
+of an old brick-field.
+
+[Sidenote: 81] The _gravel_ interstratified with the lignite, consists
+of smooth pebbles of Lydian stone, of flinty slate, of white quartz, of
+quartzose sandstone, and conglomerate, like the sandstones and
+conglomerates of the old red sandstone formation, of claystone, and of
+slate-clay, varying in size from a pea to that of an orange. The gravel
+is often intermixed with a little clay, which gives the bed sufficient
+tenacity to form cliffs, but does not prevent the pebbles from
+separating, in the attempt to break off hand specimens. It is seamed by
+thin layers of fine sand: beds of sandstone are of occasional
+occurrence.
+
+_Potter's clay_ occurs in thick beds, has generally a gray or brown
+colour, and passes, in some places, into a highly bituminous thick-slaty
+clay, penetrated by ramifications of carbonaceous matter resembling the
+roots of vegetables.
+
+The _pipe-clay_ is deserving of particular notice. It is found in beds
+from six inches to a foot thick, and mostly in contact with the lignite.
+It has commonly a yellowish-white colour, but in some places its hue is
+light lake-red. The natives use it as an article of food in times of
+scarcity and it is said to have sustained life for a considerable time.
+It is termed _white mud_ by the traders, who whitewash their houses with
+it. It occurs also in lignite deposits on the upper branches of the
+Saskatchewan, and is associated with bituminous shale on the coast of
+the Arctic Sea. Mr. Nuttall mentions a similar substance, under the name
+of pink-clay, as being found in the lignite deposits on the Arkansa.[29]
+
+The _porcelain earth_ was observed only at one place where the beds were
+highly inclined, and there it appeared to replace the sandstones of
+other parts of the deposit. It has a whitish colour, and the appearance,
+at first sight, of chalk; but some of its beds, from the quantity of
+carbonaceous matter interspersed through them, having a grayish hue. Its
+beds are from two to three yards thick.
+
+In a note[30] I have mentioned the most remarkable sections of this
+formation which occur on the banks of the Mackenzie. The depth of the
+formation was not ascertained, but the sections will show the thickness
+of the beds which were exposed. The height above the sea of the summit
+of the banks it forms on the Mackenzie, was estimated to be from two
+hundred and fifty to three hundred feet.
+
+
+NOTICES OF OTHER LIGNITE FORMATIONS.
+
+Similar formations of lignite occur near the foot of the Rocky Mountain
+range farther to the southward; but I have not, after many inquiries,
+heard of any traces of them in the eastern parts of the Hudson's Bay
+lands. Sir Alexander Mackenzie, after describing the general course of
+the Rocky Mountains, says that "along their eastern edge, there occurs a
+narrow strip of marshy, boggy, and uneven ground, which produces coal
+and bitumen;" and that "he saw these on the banks of the Mackenzie in
+lat. 66 degrees, and, in his second journey, on the Peace River, in lat.
+56 degrees and 146 degrees W. long.;" and further, that "the same was
+observed by Mr. Fidler, on the south branch of the Saskatchewan, in lat.
+52 degrees long. 112-1/2 degrees W." Mr. Alexander Stewart, an
+intelligent chief factor of the Hudson's Bay Company, and well
+acquainted with those countries, informs me that there are beds of coal
+on fire, on the Smoking River, or east branch of the Peace River, and on
+the upper parts of the _Riviere la biche_, or Elk River; and that coal,
+although not on fire, occurs at Lesser Slave Lake, on a line with the
+other two localities. Mr. Small, a clerk to the Hudson's Bay Company,
+likewise acquaints me, that coal occurs at Edmonton, on the north branch
+of the Saskatchewan, in beds, sometimes seven or eight feet thick. Most
+of the coal is thin-slaty; but some beds yield shining, thick lumps,
+which break, as he expresses it, like Spanish liquorice. It lies over
+beds of bluish-gray sandstone, and is associated with a white clay,
+which froths in water and adheres to the fingers.
+
+Mr. Drummond brought specimens from the spot which Mr. Small alludes to
+and remarks, that the lignite occurs in beds from six inches to two feet
+thick, separated by clay and sandstones. [Sidenote: 1051, 1052, 1053]
+His specimens of the lignite are precisely similar to the slaty and
+conchoidal varieties, which occur at the mouth of the Bear Lake River;
+[Sidenote: 1055] and there is an equal resemblance betwixt the
+sandstones from the two places. [Sidenote: 1053] The slaty beds of
+lignite, at Edmonton, pass into a thin, slaty, friable sandstone, much
+impregnated by carbonaceous matter, and containing pieces of fibrous
+lignite. [Sidenote: 1056, 1062] In the neighbourhood of the lignite
+there are some beds of rather indurated, but highly bituminous shale,
+and the clayey banks contain clay-iron stones, in form of septaria. Mr.
+Drummond likewise found beds of a beautiful bituminous coal, which
+Professor Buckland, from its peculiar fracture, considers to be tertiary
+pitch-coal. [Sidenote: 1058, 1059, 1060] The banks of the Saskatchewan,
+near the same place, exhibit beds of a very compact stone, having a
+brown colour, and inclosing many fragments of bituminous limestone and
+some organic remains; likewise beds of a somewhat similar stone, but
+full of drusy cavities, and more resembling a recent calcareous tufa. I
+could not learn how far these beds were connected with the lignite
+deposit.
+
+Captain Franklin[31] saw beds of lignite and tertiary pitch-coal at
+Garry's Island, off the mouth of the Mackenzie, and there is an
+extensive deposit of it near the Babbage River, on the coast of the
+Arctic Sea, opposite to the termination of the Richardson chain of the
+Rocky Mountains.
+
+
+MACKENZIE RIVER FROM SLAVE LAKE TO THE BASE OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS.
+
+Having now described the strata in Bear Lake River, together with the
+exposed beds of the lignite at its mouth, as far as opportunities of
+observation enable me, and also added a slight account of similar
+formations which occupy a like situation at the foot of the Rocky
+Mountain range, were I to adapt the order of my notices strictly to the
+route of the expedition, I should next describe the banks of the
+Mackenzie from the junction of the Bear Lake River downwards to the
+Arctic Sea. It seems, however, more advisable to commence at the origin
+of the Mackenzie, in Great Slave Lake, and give as connected a view as I
+can of the principal geological features of that great river.
+
+The west end of Slave Lake is bounded by horizontal strata of a
+limestone, whose characters shall be afterwards given in detail; and I
+have merely to remark, at present, that it forms flat shores, which are
+skirted by shoals of boulders of limestone, and of primitive rocks. Much
+drift timber is accumulated in the small bays at this end of the lake,
+which, in process of time, is converted into a substance like peat. A
+chain of islands extends obliquely across the lake at the origin of the
+river, or where the current is first felt; and the depth of the water
+there is less than six feet. Below this, there is a dilatation termed
+the _first little lake_, and the river afterwards contracts to less than
+a mile in breadth; forming in one place, when the water is low, a strong
+rapid. A second dilatation, about twenty-five miles below the first, is
+termed the _second little lake_. The shores throughout this distance are
+generally flat and covered with boulders of limestone, compact felspar,
+granite, gneiss, and sienite, and there are many of these stones
+imbedded in a tenacious clay, which forms the beach. A ridge, having an
+even outline, and apparently of small elevation, commences behind Stony
+Point, in Slave Lake, some distance inland, and, running nearly parallel
+to the river, disappears about Fishing River, a stream which joins the
+Mackenzie, below the Second Little Lake. The Horn Mountains, a ridge of
+hills, of considerably greater elevation, and having a more varied
+outline than that on the south shore, are first visible on the north
+side of the Second Little Lake, and continue in sight nearly as far as
+the junction of the "River of the Mountains," or "Forks, of the
+Mackenzie," as the traders term the union of the two rivers. [Sidenote:
+120, 121] The only rocks seen _in situ_ between Slave Lake and the
+Forks, were a bituminous shale of a brownish-black colour, in thin
+slates, and a slate-clay of a pure yellowish-gray colour, which, as well
+as the bituminous shale, forms steep banks.
+
+
+ROCKY MOUNTAINS.
+
+About twenty-five or thirty miles below the forks, the first view is
+obtained of the Rocky Mountains, which there appear to consist of
+short-conical peaks, scarcely rising two thousand feet above the river.
+Some distance lower down, the river, changing its course from W.N.W. to
+N.N.E., turns sharply round the mountains, which are there disposed in
+ridges, having bases from one to two miles wide, and a direction of
+S.S.W. or S.W. by S. being nearly at right angles to the general course
+of the great range to which they belong. The eastern sides of the ridges
+present a succession of wall-sided precipices, having beneath them
+shelving acclivities formed by debris, and exhibiting on their faces
+regular lines of stratification. The western sides of the ridges are of
+more easy ascent. The vallies which separate these ridges and open
+successively to the river, are narrow, with pretty level bottoms, but
+very steep sides well clothed with trees. In the first ridge, the strata
+seemed to dip to the northward at an angle of 35 degrees. In some of the
+others they were horizontal, or had a southerly dip. The third ridge
+presents, when viewed from the westward, a magnificent precipice,
+seemingly about one thousand two hundred feet high, and which extends
+for at least fifteen miles. After passing this ridge, the river
+inclines to the eastward, and the forms of the hills are less distinctly
+seen.
+
+As I could not visit the Rocky Mountains, I know nothing of their
+structure except from report. An interpreter in the Hudson's Bay
+Company's service, who had travelled over them, informed me that there
+are fourteen or fifteen ridges, of which the three easternmost are the
+most rugged, those that succeed being broader and more rounded.
+[Sidenote: 122] This man gave me a specimen of a pearl-gray semi-opal,
+resembling obsidian, brought from the third or fourth ridge. The
+natives, by means of fire, cause this stone to break off in thin, flat,
+conchoidal fragments, with which they form arrow-heads and knives. The
+thin pieces are nearly transparent on the edges. [Sidenote: 123] He also
+gave me a specimen of plumbago, from the same quarter, and some specular
+iron.
+
+Mr. Macpherson, of the Hudson's Bay Company, in a letter respecting the
+Rocky Mountains, near _Fort au Liard_, on the River of the Mountains, or
+south branch of the Mackenzie, informs me, that "these mountains may be
+traced into somewhat uniform ranges, extending north-westerly and
+south-easterly, nearly parallel with the River of the Mountains, and are
+in appearance confusedly scattered and broken, rising here and there
+into high peaks." [Sidenote: 124, 125] This gentleman had the kindness
+to send me specimens of a cherty rock, some of which, he states, were
+from the third range westward from the river, and others from a spur
+which projects in a southern direction from the fourth range, and rises
+about six hundred feet above the adjacent valley. These specimens cannot
+be distinguished from those of Limestone Point, on the north shore of
+Great Bear Lake[32], Mounts Fitton and Conybeare, two remarkable peaks
+which terminate the Eastern range of the Rocky Mountains on the shores
+of the Arctic sea, were found by Captain Franklin to consist of
+transition rocks, of which an account is given in the subjoined
+note.[33]
+
+Sir Alexander Mackenzie, towards the conclusion of the interesting
+narrative of his voyages, says, of the Rocky Mountain range, "The last
+line of division is, the immense ridge, or succession of ridges of the
+stony mountains, whose northern extremity dips in the Arctic Sea in
+latitude 70 degrees north, and longitude 135 degrees west, running
+nearly south-east, and begins to be parallel to the coast of the Pacific
+ocean from Cook's inlet, and so onwards to the Columbia. From thence it
+appears to quit the coast, but still continuing with less elevation to
+divide the waters of the Atlantic from those of the Pacific. In these
+snow-clad mountains rises the Mississippi, if we admit the Missouri to
+be its source, which flows into the Gulph of Mexico; the river Nelson
+which is lost in Hudson's Bay; Mackenzie's river that discharges itself
+into the North Sea, and the Columbia emptying itself into the Pacific
+Ocean. The breadth of the mountains from Cook's inlet to the Columbia is
+from four to eight degrees easterly." I may add, that the great rivers
+mentioned by Mackenzie not only take their origin from the same range of
+mountains, but almost from the same hill; the head waters of the
+Columbia and Mackenzie being only about two hundred yards apart in
+latitude 54-1/2 degrees. Mr. Drummond, who crossed the mountains at that
+place, informs me, that the Eastern side of the range consists of
+conglomerate and sandstone, to which succeed limestone hills exceedingly
+barren, and afterwards clay-slate and granite.
+
+James, the intelligent naturalist, who accompanied Major Long on his
+first expedition, says of the Rocky Mountains to the southward of the
+Missouri, "They rise abruptly out of the plains which lie extended at
+their base on the east side, towering into peaks of great height, which
+renders them visible at the distance of more than one hundred miles from
+their base. They consist of ridges, knobs, and peaks, variously
+disposed, among which are interspersed many broad and fertile valleys.
+James's peak, one of the more elevated, was ascertained by
+trigonometrical measurement to rise 8500 feet above the common level.
+The rocky formations are uniformly of a primitive character, but a deep
+crust of secondary rocks appears to recline on the east side of the
+mountains, extending upwards from their base many hundred feet." In
+another place, he says, "The woodless plain is terminated by a range of
+naked and almost perpendicular rocks, visible at the distance of several
+miles, and resembling a vast wall parallel to the base of the mountain.
+These rocks are sandstone, and rise abruptly to an elevation of one
+hundred and fifty or two hundred feet." The sandstone walls seem to
+present an appearance not very dissimilar to some of the cliffs seen
+from the Mackenzie.
+
+Having thus mentioned as briefly as I could the extent of the
+information I was able to collect, respecting the Rocky Mountain range,
+I may remark, that a formation of primitive rocks, but little elevated
+above the general level of the country, appears to run from near the
+west end of Lake Superior, gradually and slightly converging towards the
+Rocky Mountains, until it attains the east side of Great Bear Lake. In
+lat. 50 degrees, the two ranges are nearly seven hundred miles apart,
+and there, and as far as lat. 60 degrees, the space between them is
+principally occupied by horizontal strata of limestone. There is also
+much limestone in the narrower interval north of 60 degrees, but the
+strata are more inclined, and form abrupt hills and ridges, particularly
+about lat. 66 degrees, where the primitive rocks on the east of Bear
+Lake are within two hundred miles of the Rocky Mountains. Sir Alexander
+Mackenzie has noticed that a chain of great lakes skirts this eastern
+range of primitive rocks, where they are approached by the flat
+limestone strata which lie to west of them. Thus the primitive rocks
+bound Great Slave Lake to the eastward of Slave River, and the flat
+limestone strata occupy the country westward of that lake, as has been
+already mentioned.
+
+After this digression, which seemed necessary for the purpose of giving
+a general idea of the structure of the country, I return to the
+description of the banks of the Mackenzie.
+
+
+MACKENZIE RIVER FROM THE FIRST SIGHT OF THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS TO BEAR LAKE
+RIVER.
+
+At the sharp turn of the river round the Rocky Mountains, its east bank
+swells gently into a hill several feet high. Below this the banks are
+broken into conical masses by ravines, and present a finely variegated
+outline. A pretty high ridge, looking like a continuation of the Horn
+Mountains, is visible on the east side some distance inland. Opposite to
+the Big Island there is a green hill three or four hundred feet high,
+which, as we descended the river, showed itself to be part of a range
+that had a direction apparently to the N.N.W., and towards its northern
+end became more rugged and craggy, exhibiting cliffs and rude
+embrasures, at the same time increasing in height to eight hundred or
+one thousand feet. The boulders on the beach change their character
+considerably about this place. Farther up, the yellowish-white limestone
+which occurs in Slave Lake formed a great portion of them; but here a
+greenish-gray, and rather dark-coloured, compact limestone, with a flat
+conchoidal fracture, replaces it. Variegated-sandstone, and some
+purplish, felspathose-sandstone, or compact felspar, also occur pretty
+frequently, together with slaty limestone, bituminous-shale,
+lydian-stone, pitchstone-porphyry, and various sienites, granites, and
+greenstones, almost all porphyritic.
+
+The Rock by the river's side presents the first solid strata that occur
+on the immediate banks of the river after passing the Forks. It is a
+round bluff hill about five hundred feet high, with a short
+obtuse-conical summit. A precipice three hundred feet high, washed by
+the river, is composed of strata of limestone, dipping N.W. by W. at an
+angle of 70 degrees; but the strata in other parts of the hill have in
+appearance the saddle-formed arrangement. [Sidenote: 127] The limestone
+is of a blackish-gray colour, slightly crystalline structure, and much
+resembles the stone of the principal beds in the hills at the rapid and
+mouth of Bear Lake River. Its beds are from one to two feet thick, and
+much intersected by small veins of calc-spar. There are also some larger
+veins a foot and a half thick, which traverse the strata obliquely,
+having their sides lined with calc-spar, and their centres filled with
+transparent gypsum. [Sidenote: 128] I observed a small imbedded pebble
+of white sandstone in the gypsum. [Sidenote: 127] Some of the beds of
+limestone consist of angular distinct concretions. [Sidenotes: 131, 132]
+A small island lying off this rock, having its strata dipping south at
+an angle of 20 degrees, presents a bed a foot thick, entirely composed
+of these angular concretions, covered by a thin-slaty limestone, and
+reposing on thicker beds, all of which are dark-coloured. No organic
+remains were observed.
+
+A few miles below the "Rock by the river side," a very rugged ridge
+appears on the eastern bank. It has sharp craggy summits, and is about
+five or six hundred feet high. For nearly sixty miles below this place
+the river continues about eight hundred yards wide, bounded by banks
+chiefly of clay; but in some places of a clayey shale having a bluish
+colour. The banks are in many places one hundred and fifty feet high,
+with a beach beneath covered with boulders. A little above the site of
+the Old Fort Norman the river dilates, and is full of islands; and a
+short way inland, on the east side, stands Clark's Hill, which is
+visible from Fort Franklin, and is supposed to be near 1500 feet high.
+It is shaped somewhat like the amphibolic-granite mountain of Criffel in
+Galloway, and in its immediate neighbourhood there are some less lofty,
+but very rugged and precipitous hills, resembling in outline the ridges
+of limestone on Bear Lake River. From this place to the commencement of
+the lignite formation, already described, the banks of the Mackenzie are
+high and clayey.
+
+
+MACKENZIE RIVER FROM BEAR LAKE RIVER TO THE NARROWS.
+
+Below Bear Lake River the general course of the Mackenzie for eighty
+miles is about N.W. by W., when a remarkable rapid is produced by ledges
+of stone which cross its channel. The width of the river varies in this
+distance from one to three miles, but the water-course is narrowed by
+numerous islands, and the current continues strong. The Rocky Mountains
+are visible, running in a direction from S.E. to N.W. Judging merely by
+the eye, we did not estimate their altitude above four thousand feet,
+and I may remark, that the snow disappears from their summits early in
+the summer. A back view of the hill at the mouth of Bear Lake River is
+also obtained for upwards of twenty miles, but the ridge of which it
+forms a part curves inland, probably uniting, as was formerly remarked,
+with the one which crosses Bear Lake River near the middle of its
+course. The banks of the Mackenzie are in general from one hundred and
+twenty to one hundred and fifty feet high in this part, and there are
+occasional sections of them, but we had little leisure to examine their
+structure. In the voyage of 1826 we drifted down the stream night and
+day, landing only when necessary to cook our provisions; and in the
+following geological notices, as far as the passage of the river named
+the _Narrows_, I have done little more than describe the specimens
+collected by Captain Franklin, when he ascended the river by the
+tow-line in 1825. The few notes that the rapidity of our voyage
+permitted me to make, as to the direction of the strata, &c., were
+inserted in the book that was purloined by the Esquimaux at the mouth of
+the river.
+
+About fifty miles below Bear Lake River there is an almost precipitous
+cliff of bituminous-shale, one hundred and twenty feet high, strongly
+resembling the cliffs which occur near the bases of the hill of
+Scented-Grass and Great Bear Mountain in Bear Lake already
+described[34], and at the mouth of the Clear Water River in lat. 56-1/2
+degrees. In the two former localities the shale is in the neighbourhood
+of horizontal strata of limestone; and in the latter it actually reposes
+on the limestone, which extends in horizontal strata as far as Great
+Slave Lake, is connected with many salt springs, and possesses many of
+the characters ascribed to the zechstein formation. [Sidenote: 133]
+Captain Franklin observed the beach under the shale cliffs of the
+Mackenzie to be strewed not only with fragments of the shale, but also
+with much lignite, similar to that which occurs at the mouth of the Bear
+Lake River. Twelve or fourteen miles below these cliffs there is a reach
+seventeen or eighteen miles long, bounded by walls of sandstone in
+horizontal beds. [Sidenotes: 134, 135] Specimens obtained by Captain
+Franklin at the upper end of the reach consist of fine-grained quartzose
+sandstone[35] of a gray colour, and having a clayey basis, resembling
+those which occur in the middle of Bear Lake River. At the commencement
+of the "Great Rapid of the Mackenzie" there is a hill on each side of
+the river, named by Captain Franklin the eastern[36] and Western
+mountains of the Rapid. The Rocky Mountains appear at no great distance
+from this place, running about N.W. by W., until lost to the sight; and
+as the Mackenzie for forty or fifty miles below, winds away to the
+northward, and, in some reaches, a little to the eastward, they are not
+again visible, until the river has made a bend to the westward, and
+emerges from the defile termed "the Narrows."
+
+The "Eastern mountain of the rapid" seems to have a similar structure,
+with the "Hill by the River's side," the hill at the mouth of Bear Lake
+River, and the other limestone ridges which traverse this part of the
+country. [Sidenote: 136] From some highly inclined beds near its base I
+broke off specimens of a limestone, having an imperfectly crystalline
+structure, and a brown colour, which deepens into dull black on the
+surfaces of its natural seams. [Sidenotes: 137, 138, 139, 141] A piece
+of dark-gray, compact limestone, having the peculiar structure to which
+the name of "_cone in cone_" has been given, was found on the beach;
+also several pieces of chert, and some fragments of a trap-rock,
+consisting of pieces of greenstone, more or less iron-shot, cemented by
+calc-spar.
+
+Immediately below the rapid there are horizontal layers of sandstone
+which form cliffs, and also the bed of the river. Captain Franklin
+obtained specimens of this stone, which do not differ from the
+sandstones above the rapid. [Sidenote 142, 143, 140] And amongst the
+debris of the cliff he found other specimens of the "_cone in cone_,"
+such as it occurs in the clayey beds of the coal measures, and also some
+pieces of crystallized pyrites.
+
+[Sidenote: 144, 144a, 145, 146, 147, 144b] About forty miles below the
+rapid, the river flows through a narrow defile formed by the approach of
+two lofty banks of limestone in highly-inclined strata, above which
+there is a dilatation of the river, bounded by the walls of sandstone,
+which have weathered, in many places, into pillars, castellated forms,
+caves, &c. The sandstone strata are horizontal, have slate-clay
+partings, and seams of a poor clay-iron stone, but do not differ in
+general appearance from the sandstone beds at the rapid, except that a
+marly stone containing corallines, and having the general colour and
+aspect of the sandstone beds, is associated with them at this place.
+
+The very remarkable defile, below these sandstone beds, is designated
+"the _second rapid_" by Sir Alexander Mackenzie, and "the _ramparts_" by
+the traders, a name adopted by Captain Franklin. Mackenzie states it to
+be three hundred yards wide, three miles long, and to have fifty fathoms
+depth of water. If he is correct in his soundings, its bed is probably
+two hundred and fifty feet below the level of the sea. The walls of the
+defile rise from eighty to one hundred and fifty feet above the river,
+and the strata are inclined to the W.N.W., at an angle of seventy or
+eighty degrees. It is worthy of remark, that the course of the river
+through this chasm is E.N.E., and that just above the eastern mountain
+of the rapid it runs about W.S.W. through the sandstone strata, as if it
+had found natural rents by which to make its escape through the ridge of
+hills which cross its course here. Similar elbows occur in various parts
+of the River, and they may be almost always traced to some peculiarity
+in the disposition of the hills which traverse the country.
+
+Captain Franklin gathered many specimens of the limestone strata of the
+Ramparts, which are specified in a note.[37] [Sidenote: 148, 149] Some
+of the beds at the upper part of the Ramparts consist of a granular
+foliated limestone, which was not noticed elsewhere on the banks of the
+river, but the greater part are of limestone, strongly resembling that
+which has been already described, as forming the ridges in this quarter.
+Most of the beds are impregnated wholly, or in patches, with bitumen.
+Some of these specimens contain corallines and terebratulae; and at the
+lower end of the defile there are horizontal strata of limestone,
+covered by a thin layer of flinty slate.
+
+Below the _ramparts_ the river expands to the width of two miles, and
+for a reach or two its banks are less elevated. In lat. 66-3/4 degrees,
+about thirty miles from the ramparts, there are cliffs which Captain
+Franklin in his notes, remarks, "run on an E. by S. course for four
+miles, are almost perpendicular, about one hundred and sixty feet high,
+and present the same castellated appearances that are exhibited by the
+sandstone above the defile of the "ramparts." [Sidenote: 159, 160, 161,
+162] The cliffs[38] are, in fact, composed of sandstones similar, in
+general appearance, to those which occur higher up the river; but some
+of the beds contain the quartz in coarser grains, with little or no
+cement. [Sidenote: 163, 164, 165, 166] The beds are horizontal, and
+repose on horizontal limestone,[39] from which Captain Franklin broke
+many specimens in 1825. [Sidenote: 167, 168, 169, 170] We landed at this
+place in 1826 to see the junction of the two rocks, but the limestone
+was concealed by the high waters of the river. Captain Franklin's
+specimens are full of shells, many of which are identical with those of
+the flat limestone strata of the Athabasca River. [Sidenote: 171] One
+bed appears to be almost entirely composed of a fine large species of
+terebratula, not yet described, but of which Mr. Sowerby has a specimen
+from the carboniferous limestone of Neho, in Norway. Some of the beds
+contain the shells in fragments; in others, the shells are very entire.
+
+About forty miles below these sandstone walls the banks of the river are
+composed of marl-slate, which weathers so readily, that it forms
+shelving acclivities. [Sidenote: 172] In one reach the soft strata are
+cut by ravines into very regular forms, resembling piles of cannon shot
+in an arsenal, whence it was named _Shot-reach_.
+
+The river makes a short turn to the north below Shot Reach, and a more
+considerable one to the westward, in passing the present site of Fort
+Good Hope. The banks in that neighbourhood are mostly of clay, but beds
+of sandstone occasionally show themselves. The Indians travel from Fort
+Good Hope nearly due north, reach the summit of a ridge of land on the
+first night, and from thence following the course of a small stream they
+are conducted to the river _Inconnu_, and on the evening of the 4th day
+they reach the shores of Esquimaux Lake. Its water is brackish, the tide
+flowing into it. The neck of land which the Indians cross from Fort Good
+Hope is termed "isthmus" on Arrowsmith's map, from Mackenzie's
+information; and its breadth, from the known rate at which the Indians
+are accustomed to travel, cannot exceed sixty miles. The ridge is named
+the Carreboeuf, or Rein-deer Hills, and runs to lat. 69 degrees, forming
+a peninsula between the eastern channel of the Mackenzie and Esquimaux
+Lake.
+
+A small stream flows into the Mackenzie some way below Fort Good Hope,
+on the banks of which, according to Sir Alexander Mackenzie, the Indians
+and Esquimaux collect flints. He describes these banks as composed of "a
+high, steep, and soft rock, variegated with red, green, and yellow hues;
+and that, from the continual dripping of the water, parts of it
+frequently fall, and break into small, stony flakes, like slate, but not
+so hard. Amongst these are found pieces of petroleum, which bears a
+resemblance to yellow wax, but is more pliable." The flint he speaks of
+is most probably flinty-slate; but I do not know what the yellow
+petroleum is, unless it be the variety of alum, named rock-butter, which
+was observed in other situations, forming thin layers in bituminous
+shale.
+
+About twenty miles below Fort Good Hope there are some sandstone
+cliffs,[40] which Captain Franklin examined in 1825. [Sidenote: 173,
+174] The sandstones are similar to those occurring higher up the river,
+but some of the beds contain small pieces of bituminous shale; and they
+are interstratified with thin layers of flinty-slate, and of
+flinty-state passing into bituminous shale. [Sidenote: 175, 176] The
+flinty-slate contains iron pyrites, and its layers are covered with a
+sulphureous efflorescence. Some of the beds pass into a slate-clay,
+which contains vegetable impressions, and some veins of clay-iron stone
+also appear in the cliff.
+
+Sixty miles below Fort Good Hope the river turns to the northward, and
+makes a sharp elbow betwixt walls of sandstone eighty or ninety feet
+high, which continue for fifteen or twenty miles. Captain Franklin named
+this passage of the river "The Narrows."[41] [Sidenotes: 178, 179] The
+sandstones of the _Narrows_ lie in horizontal beds, and have generally a
+dark gray colour. [Sidenotes: 180, 181, 182] They are parted by thin
+slaty beds of sandstone, containing small pieces apparently of
+bituminous coal, and some casts of vegetables. [Sidenote: 183] Most of
+the beds contain scales of mica, and some of them have nodules of
+indurated iron-shot clay which exhibit obscure impressions of shells. A
+bed of imperfectly crystalline limestone was seen by Captain Franklin
+underlying the sandstones.
+
+
+MACKENZIE RIVER BELOW "THE NARROWS."
+
+The Mackenzie, on emerging from the Narrows, separates into many
+branches, which flow to the sea through alluvial or diluvial deltas and
+islands. The Rocky Mountains are seen on the western bank of the river,
+forming the boundary of those low lands; and the lower, but decided
+ridge, of the Rein-deer Hills holds nearly a parallel course on the east
+bank. The estuary lying between these two ranges, opens to the N.W. by
+N. into the Arctic Sea. I have already mentioned the specimens of rocks
+obtained at the few points of the Rocky Mountains that were visited,[42]
+and therefore shall now speak only of the Rein-deer Hills. We did not
+approach them until we had passed for thirty miles down a branch of the
+river which winds through alluvial lands. At this place there are
+several conical hills about two hundred feet high, which appeared to
+consist of limestone. Specimens taken from some slightly-inclined beds
+near their bases, consisted of a fine-grained, dark, bluish-gray
+limestone. After passing these limestone rocks, the Rein-deer Hills were
+pretty uniform in appearance, having a steep acclivity with rounded
+summits. Their height, on the borders of the river, is about four
+hundred feet, but a mile or two inland they attain an elevation of
+perhaps two hundred feet more. Their sides are deeply covered with sand
+and clay, arising most probably from the disintegration of the subjacent
+rocks. [Sidenote: 184, 185] A section made by a torrent, showed the
+summit of one of the hills to be formed of gray slate-clay, its middle
+of friable gray sandstone much iron-shot, and its base of dark
+bluish-gray slaty clay. The sandstone predominates in some parts of the
+range, forming small cliffs, underneath which there are steep
+acclivities of sand. It contains nearly an equal quantity of black
+flinty slate, or lydian stone, and white quartz in its composition, and
+greatly resembles the friable sandstones of the lignite formation at the
+mouth of Bear Lake River. [Sidenote: 186] In some parts the soil has a
+red colour from the disintegration of a reddish-brown slate-clay.
+[Sidenote: 187] The summits of the hills that were visited were thinly
+coated with loose gravel, composed of smooth pebbles of lydian-stone,
+intermixed with some pieces of green felspar, white quartz, limestone,
+and chert. In some places almost all the pebbles were as large as a
+goose-egg, in others none of them exceeded the size of a hazel nut. The
+Rein-deer Mountains terminate in lat. 69 degrees, having previously
+diminished in altitude to two hundred feet, and the eastern branch of
+the river turns round their northern extremity. White spruce trees grow
+at the base of these hills as far as lat. 68-1/2 degrees; north of which
+they become very stunted and straggling, and very soon disappear, none
+reaching to lat. 69 degrees.
+
+Sir Alexander Mackenzie, who, on his return from the sea, walked over
+these hills, says, "Though the country is so elevated, it is one
+continued morass, except on the summits of some barren hills. As I
+carried my hanger in my hand, I frequently examined if any part of the
+ground was in a state of thaw, but could never force the blade into it
+beyond the depth of six or eight inches. The face of the high land
+towards the river is, in some places, rocky, and in others a mixture of
+sand and stone, veined with a kind of red earth, with which the natives
+bedaub themselves." It was on the 14th of July that he made these
+observations. On the 5th of the same month, in a milder year, we found
+that the thaw had penetrated nearly a foot into the beds of clay at the
+base of the hills.
+
+
+ALLUVIAL ISLANDS AT THE MOUTH OF THE MACKENZIE.
+
+The space between the Rocky Mountains and Rein-deer Hills, ninety miles
+in length from lat. 67 degrees 40 minutes to 69 degrees 10 minutes, and
+from fifteen to forty miles in width, is occupied by flat alluvial
+islands, which separate the various branches of the river. Most of these
+islands are partially or entirely flooded in the spring, and have their
+centres depressed and marshy, or occupied by a lake; whilst their
+borders are higher and well clothed by white spruce trees. The spring
+floods find their way, through openings in these higher banks, into the
+hollow centres of the islands, carrying with them a vast quantity of
+drift timber, which, being left there, becomes water-soaked, and,
+finally, firmly impacted in the mud. The young willows, which spring up
+rapidly, contribute much towards raising the borders of the stream, by
+intercepting the drift sand which the wind sweeps from the margin of the
+shallow ponds as they dry up in summer. The banks, being firmly frozen
+in spring, are enabled to resist the weight of the temporary floods
+which occur in that season, and before they are thawed the river has
+resumed its low summer level. The trees which grow on the islands
+terminate suddenly, in lat. 68 degrees 40 minutes.
+
+I have already mentioned, that a large sheet of brackish water, named
+Esquimaux Lake, lies to the eastward of the Rein-deer Mountains, running
+to the southward, and approaching within sixty miles of the bend of
+Mackenzie's River at Fort Good Hope. This lake has a large outlet into
+Liverpool Bay, to the westward of Cape Bathurst, and there are many
+smaller openings betwixt that bay and Point Encounter, near the north
+end of the Rein-deer Hills, which are also supposed to form
+communications betwixt the lake and the sea. The whole coast-line from
+Cape Bathurst to the mouth of the Mackenzie, and the islands skirting
+it, as far as Garry and Sacred Islands, present a great similarity in
+outline and structure. They consist of extensive sandy flats, from which
+there arise, abruptly, hills of an obtuse conical form, from one to two
+hundred feet above the general level. Sandy shoals skirt the coast, and
+numerous inlets and basins of water divide the flat lands, and
+frequently produce escarpments of the hills, which show them to be
+composed of strata of sand of various colours, sometimes inclosing very
+large logs of drift timber. There is a coating of black vegetable earth,
+from six inches to a foot in thickness, covering these sandy hummocks,
+and some of the escarped sides appeared black, which was probably caused
+by soil washed from the summit.
+
+It is possible that the whole of these eminences may, at some distant
+period, have been formed by the drifting of moveable sands. At present
+the highest floods reach only to their bases, their height being marked
+by a thick layer of drift timber. When the timber has been thrown up
+beyond the reach of ordinary floods, it is covered with sand, and, in
+process of time, with vegetable mould. The _Elymus mollis_, and some
+similar grasses with long fibrous roots, serve to prevent the sand-hills
+from drifting away again. Some of the islands, however, consist of mud
+or clay. Captain Franklin describes Garry's Island as presenting cliffs,
+two hundred feet high, of black mud, in which there were inclined beds
+of lignite. [Sidenote: 188] Specimens of this lignite have the same
+appearance with the fibrous wood-coal occurring in the formation at the
+mouth of Bear Lake River, and, like it, contain resin. [Sidenotes: 189,
+190] Imbedded in the same bank, there were large masses of a dark-brown
+calc-tuff, full of cavities containing some greenish earthy substance.
+Some boulders of lydian stone strew the beach. The cliffs of
+Nicholson's Island also consisted of sand and mud, which, at the time
+of our visit, (July 16th,) had thawed to the depth of three feet. This
+island rises four hundred feet above the level of the sea, and is
+covered with a thin sward of grasses and bents.
+
+
+SEA-COAST.--BITUMINOUS ALUM SHALE.
+
+The main land to the east of Nicholson's Island, as far as Cape
+Bathurst, presents gently swelling hills, which attain the height of two
+hundred feet at the distance of two miles from the beach, and the ground
+is covered with a sward of moss and grasses. At Point Sir Peregrine
+Maitland there are cliffs forty-feet high of sand and slaty clay, and
+the ravines are lined with fragments of whitish compact limestone,
+exactly resembling that which occurs in Lakes Huron and Winipeg, and
+which was afterwards seen forming the promontory of Cape Parry, bearing
+E.N.E. from this place. The beach, on the south side of Harrowby Bay,
+not far from Point Maitland, was thickly strewed with fragments of dark
+red and of white sandstone, together with some blocks of the
+above-mentioned limestone, and a few boulders of sienite.
+
+From Cape Bathurst the coast line has a S.E. direction, and is formed by
+precipitous cliffs, which gradually rise in height from thirty feet to
+six hundred. The beds composing these cliffs appear to be analogous to
+those of the alum-shale banks at Whitby, and similar to those which
+skirt the Scented-grass Hill and Great Bear Mountain, in Great Bear
+Lake. The Scented-grass Hill is distant from Cape Bathurst about three
+hundred miles, on a S.E. bearing, which corresponds, within a point,
+with the direction of the principal mountain chains in the country.
+[Sidenote: 191] There is evidently a striking similarity in the form of
+the ground plan of these two promontories. At the extremity of Cape
+Bathurst the cliffs consist of slaty-clay, which, when dry, has a light
+bluish-gray colour, a slightly greasy feel, and falls down in flakes.
+The rain-water had penetrated the cliff to the depth of three yards from
+the summit; and this portion was frozen, on the 17th July, into an icy
+wall, which crumbled down as it thawed. On proceeding a little further
+along the coast, some beds were observed that possessed, when newly
+exposed to the air, tenacity enough to be denominated stone, but which,
+under the action of water, speedily softened into a tenacious
+bluish-clay.
+
+[Sidenotes: 192, 193, 197, 198, 199] At Point Traill we were attracted
+by the variegated colours of the cliff, and on landing found that they
+proceeded from clays baked by the heat of a bed of bituminous-alum-shale
+which had been on fire. Some parts of the earth were still warm. The
+shale is of a brown colour and thin slaty structure, with an earthy
+fracture. It contains many interspersed crystals of selenite; between
+its lamina there is much powdery alum, mixed with sulphur, and it is
+traversed by veins of brown selenite, in slender prismatic crystals.
+[Sidenotes: 200, 194, 195, 196] The bed was much broken down, and hid by
+the debris of the bank, but in parts it was several yards thick, and
+contained layers of the wax-coloured variety of alum, named Rock-butter.
+The shale is covered by a bed of stone, chiefly composed of oval
+distinct concretions of a poor calcareous clay-iron stone. These
+concretions have a straight cleavage in the direction of their short
+axis, and are often coated by fibrous calc-sinter and calcedony. The
+upper part of the cliff is clay and sand passing into a loosely cohering
+sandstone. The strata are horizontal, except in the neighbourhood of
+ravines, or of consumed shale, when they are often highly inclined,
+apparently from partial subsidence. The debris of the cliff form
+declivities, having an inclination of from fifty to eighty degrees, and
+the burnt clays variously coloured, yellow, white, and deep red, give it
+much the appearance of the rubbish of a brick-field. The view of the
+interior, from the summit of the cliff, presents a surface slightly
+varied by eminences, which swell gently to the height of fifty or sixty
+feet above the general level. The soil is clayey, with a very scanty
+vegetation, and there are many small lakes in the country.
+
+[Sidenote: 201] Ten miles further on, the alum-shale forms a cliff two
+hundred feet high, and presents layers of the Rock-butter about two
+inches thick, with many crystals of selenite on the surfaces of the
+slates. The summit of the cliff consists of a bed of marly gravel two
+yards thick, which is composed of pebbles of granite, sienite, quartz,
+lydian-stone, and compact limestone, all coated by a white powdery marl.
+The dip of the strata at this place is slightly to the northward.
+
+A few miles to the south-east of Wilmot Horton River the cliffs are six
+hundred feet high, and present acclivities having an inclination of from
+thirty to sixty degrees, formed of weathered slate-clay. Some beds of
+alum-shale are visible at the foot of these cliffs, containing much
+sulphate of alumina and masses of baked clay.
+
+Two miles further along the coast the shaly strata were on fire, giving
+out smoke, and beyond this the cliffs become much broken but less
+precipitous, having fallen down in consequence of the consumption of the
+combustible strata. These ruined cliffs gradually terminated in green
+and sloping banks, whose summit was from one to two miles inland, and
+about six hundred feet above the sea level. Considerable tracts of level
+ground occurred occasionally betwixt these banks and the beach. Wherever
+the ground was cut by ravines, beds of slate-clay were exposed. On
+reaching the bottom of Franklin Bay, we observed the higher grounds
+keeping an E.S.E. direction until lost to the view, becoming, however,
+somewhat peaked in the outline.
+
+
+SEA COAST.--LIMESTONE.
+
+Parry's Peninsula, where it joins the mainland, is very low, consisting
+mostly of gravel and sand, and is there greatly indented by shallow
+bays, but it gradually increases in height towards Cape Parry. The bays
+and inlets are separated from the sea by beaches composed of rolled
+pieces of compact limestone; and which, although they are in places only
+a few yards across, are several miles in length. The northern part of
+Parry's Peninsula belongs entirely to a formation which appears from the
+mineralogical characters of the stone composing the great mass of the
+strata, and the organic remains observed in it, to be identical with the
+limestone formations of Lakes Winipeg and Huron.
+
+[Sidenotes: 202, 204] On the north side of Sellwood Bay, in lat. 69
+degrees 42 minutes, cliffs about twenty feet high are composed of a
+fine-grained[43] brownish dolomite, in angular distinct concretions, and
+containing corallines and veins of calc-spar. [Sidenote: 203] In the
+same neighbourhood there is a bed of grayish-black compact luculite with
+drusses of calc-spar, very similar to the limestone which occurs in
+highly inclined strata at the "Rock by the River Side," on the
+Mackenzie, and in horizontal strata in an island near that rock, where
+it forms angular concretions.
+
+After passing Sellwood Bay, the north and east shores of Cape Parry, and
+the islands skirting them, present magnificent cliffs of limestone,
+which, from the weathering action of the waves of the sea, assume
+curious architectural forms. Many of the insulated rocks are perforated.
+Between the bold projecting cliffs of limestone there are narrow
+shelving beaches, formed of its debris, that afford access to the
+interior. The strata have generally a slight dip to the northward, and
+the most common Rock is a yellowish-gray dolomite which has a very
+compact structure, but presents some shining facets of disseminated
+calc-spar. This stone, which is not to be distinguished by its
+mineralogical characters from the prevailing limestone of Lake Winipeg,
+and at the passage of _La cloche_ in Lake Huron, forms beds six or eight
+feet thick, and is frequently interstratified with a cellular limestone,
+approaching to chert in hardness, and exhibiting the characters of
+rauchwacke. In some parts, the rauchwacke is the predominating rock, and
+has its cells beautifully powdered with crystals of quartz or of
+calc-spar, and contains layers of chert of a milky colour. The chert has
+sometimes the appearance of calcedony, and is finely striped.
+
+[Sidenote: 208, 209] The extremity of Cape Parry is a hill about seven
+hundred feet high, in which beds of brownish dolomite, impregnated with
+silica, are interstratified with a thin-slaty, gray limestone, having a
+compact structure.[44] The vegetation is very scanty, and there are some
+spots covered with fragments of dolomite, on which there is not the
+vestige even of a lichen. Many large boulders of greenstone were thrown
+upon the N.W. point of Cape Parry. The islands in Darnley Bay, between
+Capes Parry and Lyon, are composed of limestone.
+
+
+SEA-COAST.--FORMATION OF SLATE-CLAY, SANDSTONE, AND LIMESTONE, WITH
+TRAP-ROCKS.
+
+From Cape Lyon to Point Tinney, the rocks forming the coast-line are
+slate-clay, limestone, greenstone, sandstone, and calcareous
+puddingstone.
+
+[Sidenote: 214] Near the extremity of Cape Lyon the _slate-clay_
+predominates, occurring in straight, thin, bluish-gray layers, which are
+interspersed with detached scales of mica. [Sidenote: 215] It sometimes
+forms thicker slates, that are impregnated with iron, and occurs alone,
+or interstratified in thin beds with a reddish, small-grained limestone.
+The strata, in general, dip slightly to the N.E., and form
+gently-swelling grounds, which at the distance of about fifteen miles to
+the southward terminate in hills, named the Melville Range. These hills
+are apparently connected with those which skirt the coast to the
+westward of Parry's Peninsula, have rather a soft outline, and do not
+appear to attain an altitude of more than seven or eight hundred feet
+above the sea. Ridges of naked trap-rocks, which traverse the lower
+country betwixt the Melville hills and the extremity of the Cape, rise
+abruptly to the height of one hundred or one hundred and fifty feet, and
+have, in general, an E.N.E. direction. When these trap ridges reach the
+coast, they form precipices which frequently have a columnar structure,
+and the nearly horizontal strata of slate-clay are generally seen
+underlying the precipices. In many places the softer clay strata are
+worn considerably away, and the columns of greenstone hang over the
+beach. Columns of this description occur at the north-eastern extremity
+of the Cape, and the slate-clay is not altered at its point of contact
+with the greenstone. The soil in this neighbourhood is clayey, and some
+small streams have pretty lofty and steep clayey banks; the shaly strata
+appearing only at their base. A better sward of grasses and carices
+exists at Cape Lyon, than is usual on those shores. Many boulders of
+greenstone and large fragments of red sandstone strew the beach.
+
+At Point Pearce, four or five miles to the eastward of Cape Lyon, a
+reddish, small-grained limestone forms perpendicular cliffs two hundred
+feet high, in which a remarkable cavern occurs. Near these cliffs the
+slate-clay and reddish limestone are interstratified, and form a bold
+rocky point, in which the strata dip to the N.E. at an angle of 20
+degrees. The coast line becomes lower to the eastward, and at Point
+Keats a fine-grained, flesh-coloured sandstone occurs. This sandstone is
+quartzose, does not possess much tenacity, and is without any apparent
+basis.
+
+At Point Deas Thompson the limestone re-appears, having reddish-brown
+and flesh-red colours, and a splintery fracture. There are some
+beautiful Gothic arches formed in the cliffs there by the weathering of
+the strata.
+
+Five miles farther along the coast, near Roscoe River, the same kind of
+limestone forms cliffs twenty-five feet high, and is covered by thin
+layers of soft slate-clay. On the top of these cliffs we observed a
+considerable quantity of drift-timber and some hummocks of gravel. The
+spring tides do not rise above two feet. The Melville Range approaches
+within three miles of the coast there, and presents a few short conical
+summits, although the hills composing it are mostly round-backed.
+
+[Sidenotes: 217, 218, 219] At Point De Witt Clinton, a compact
+blackish-blue limestone, traversed by veins of calc-spar, forms a bed
+thirty feet thick, which reposes on thin layers of a soft, compact,
+light, bluish-gray limestone or marl. The cliffs at this place are
+altogether about seventy feet high, but their bases were concealed by
+accumulations of ice. Veins filled with compact and fibrous gypsum
+traverse the upper limestone. Naked and barren ridges of greenstone,
+much iron-shot, cross the country here, in the same manner as at Cape
+Lyon. The soil consists of gravel and clay; the former mostly composed
+of whitish magnesian limestone; and the vegetation is very scanty.
+
+At Point Tinney, in lat. 69 degrees 20 minutes, cliffs of a calcareous
+puddingstone, about forty feet high, extend for a mile along the coast.
+The basis, in most of the beds, is calc-spar; but in some small layers
+it is calcareous sand. The imbedded pebbles are smooth, vary in
+magnitude, from the size of a pea to that of a man's hand, and are
+mostly or entirely of chert, which approaches to calcedony, and, when
+striped, to agate in its characters. Perhaps, much of the gravel which
+covers the country is derived from the destruction of this conglomerate
+rock.
+
+
+SEA COAST.--LIMESTONE.
+
+From Point Clifton to Cape Hearne, the whole coast consists of a
+formation of limestone precisely similar to that which occurs on Lake
+Winipeg and Parry's Peninsula.
+
+Dolomite, the prevailing rock in this formation, is generally in thin
+layers, and has a light smoke-gray colour, varying occasionally to
+yellowish gray, and buff. Its structure is compact, with little lustre,
+except from facets of disseminated calc-spar. It sometimes passes into
+milk-white chert, which forms beds. In some places the dolomite
+alternates with cellular limestone, which is generally much impregnated
+with quartz, and has its cavities powdered with crystals of that
+mineral. No organic remains were observed in the strata, but fragments,
+evidently derived from some beds of the formation, contained
+orthoceratites, like those of Lake Huron. The strata, though nearly
+horizontal, appear to crop out towards the north and east, forming
+precipices about ten feet high, facing in that direction, and running
+like a wall across the country. In many places, however, and
+particularly at Cape Krusenstern, the strata terminate in magnificent
+cliffs upwards of two hundred feet high, the country in the interior
+remaining level. Mount Barrow is a small hill of limestone, of a
+remarkable form, being a natural fortification surrounded by a moat. The
+coast line is indented by shallow bays, and skirted by rocks and
+islands.
+
+In the whole country occupied by this formation, the ground is covered
+with slaty fragments, sometimes to the depth of three feet or more.
+These slates appear to have been detached from the strata they cover, by
+the freezing of the water, which insinuates itself betwixt their layers.
+At Cape Bexley, the fragments of dolomite cover the ground to the
+exclusion of all other soil; and in a walk of several miles, I did not
+see the vestige of a vegetable, except a small green scum upon some
+stones that formed the lining of a pond which had dried up. In this
+neighbourhood there are a number of straight furrows a foot deep, as if
+a plough had been drawn through the loose fragments. After many
+conjectures as to the cause of this phenomenon, I ascertained that the
+furrows had their origin in fissures of the strata lying underneath.
+
+At the commencement of this formation between Point Tinney and Point
+Clifton, the coast is low, and a stream of considerable magnitude, named
+Croker River, together with many rivulets, flow into the sea. Its
+termination to the southward of Cape Hearne is also marked by a low
+coast line, which is bounded by the bold rocky hills of Cape Kendall.
+
+
+FORMATION SIMILAR TO THAT AT CAPE LYON.
+
+The beach between Cape Hearne and Cape Kendall is in some places
+composed of slate-clay, and of a clay resembling wacke. Many large
+boulders of greenstone occur there. Cape Kendall is a projecting rocky
+point, about five or six hundred feet high, and nearly precipitous on
+three sides, which are washed by the sea. On the north, its rocks
+consist entirely of greenstone, but on the south side of the Cape the
+greenstone in lofty columns reposes on thin-slaty beds of fine-grained,
+bluish-gray limestone. Back's Inlet presents on each side a succession
+of lofty precipitous headlands, which have the shape termed, by seamen,
+"the gunner's quoin." Most of the islands and points near the mouth of
+the Coppermine have this form, and are composed of trap rocks.
+[Sidenote: 220] One of Cowper's islands on which we landed consists of
+beds of greenstone cropping out like the steps of a stair.
+
+A low ridge of greenstone exists at the mouth of the Coppermine river,
+and from thence to Bloody-fall, a distance of ten miles, the country is
+nearly level, with the exception of some low ridges of trap which run
+through it. The channel of the river is sunk about one hundred and fifty
+feet below the surrounding country, and is bounded by cliffs of
+yellowish white sand, and sometimes of clay, from beneath which, beds of
+greenstone occasionally crop out.
+
+At Bloody-fall, a round-backed ridge of land, seven or eight hundred
+feet high, crosses the country. It has a gentle ascent on the north, but
+is steep towards the south. The river at the fall makes its way through
+a narrow gap, whose nearly precipitous sides consist of tenacious clay,
+the bed and immediate borders of the stream being formed of
+greenstone.[45] From thence to the Copper Mountains, gently undulated
+plains occur, intersected in various parts by precipitous ridges of trap
+rocks, and the river flows in a narrow chasm, sunk about one hundred
+feet below their level. A few miles above Bloody-fall, strata of light
+gray clay-slate, dipping to the north-east, at an angle of 20 degrees,
+support some greenstone cliffs on the banks of the river. [Sidenotes:
+222, 223, 224] From this place to the Copper Mountains the rocks
+observed in the ravines were a dark reddish-brown, felspathose
+sandstone, and gray slate-clay, in horizontal strata, with greenstone
+rising in ridges. The soil is sandy, and in many places clayey, with a
+pretty close grassy sward. Straggling spruce trees begin to skirt the
+banks of the river about eighteen or twenty miles from the sea.
+
+
+COPPER MOUNTAINS.
+
+The Copper Mountains rise perhaps eight or nine hundred feet above the
+bed of the river, and at a distance, present a somewhat soft outline,
+but on a nearer view they appear to be composed of ridges which have a
+direction from W.N.W. to E.S.E. Many of the ridges have precipitous
+sides, and their summits, which are uneven and stony, do not rise more
+than two hundred, or two hundred and fifty feet above the vallies, which
+are generally swampy and full of small lakes. The only rocks noticed
+when we crossed these hills on the late journey, were clay-slate,
+greenstone, and dark red sandstone, sometimes containing white
+calcareous concretions, resembling an amygdaloidal rock. On our first
+journey down the Coppermine River, we visited a valley where the Indians
+had been accustomed to look for native copper, and we found there many
+loose fragments of a trap rock, containing native copper, green
+malachite, copper glance, and iron-shot copper green; also trap
+containing greenish-gray prehnite with disseminated native copper,
+which, in some specimens was crystallized in rhomboidal dodecahedrons.
+Tabular fragments of prehnite, associated with calc-spar and native
+copper, were also picked up, evidently portions of a vein, but we did
+not discover the vein in its original repository. The trap-rock, whose
+fragments strewed the valley, consists of felspar, deeply coloured by
+hornblende. A few clumps of white spruce trees occur in the vallies of
+the Copper Mountains, but the country is in general naked. The
+Coppermine River makes a remarkable bend round the end of these hills.
+
+After quitting the Copper Mountains, and passing a valley occupied by a
+chain of small lakes in lat. 67 degrees 10 minutes, long. 116 degrees 45
+minutes, we travelled over a formation whose prevailing rocks are
+spotted sandstone and conglomerate, and which forms the _height of land_
+betwixt Bear Lake and the Coppermine River. The ascent to this height
+from the eastward is gradual, but the descent towards Bear Lake is more
+rapid. The country is broken and hilly, though the height of the hills
+above the sea is perhaps inferior to that of the Copper Mountains. The
+vallies through which the small streams that water the country flow, are
+narrow and deep, resembling ravines, and their sides are clayey. The
+ground is strewed with gravel.
+
+The _sandstone_ has very generally a purplish colour, with gray spots of
+various magnitudes. It is fine grained, hard, has a somewhat vitreous
+lustre and contains little or no disseminated mica.
+
+The _conglomerate_ consists of oval pebbles of white quartz, sometimes
+of very considerable magnitude, imbedded in an iron-shot cement. Many of
+the pebbles appear as if they had been broken and firmly re-united
+again. The conglomerate passes into a coarse sandstone.
+
+Porphyry and granite form hills amongst the sandstone strata.
+
+The _porphyry_ has a compact basis, like hornstone, of a dull brown
+colour, which contains imbedded crystals of felspar and quartz, and
+occasionally of augite. It forms some dome-shaped and short conical
+hills.
+
+The _granite_ is disposed in oblong ridges, with small mural precipices.
+It has, generally, a flesh-red colour, and contains some specks of
+augite, but little or no mica. The granite and porphyry were observed
+only on the east side of the height of land, the brow of which, and its
+whole western declivity, is formed of sandstone. Boulders of granite and
+porphyry, precisely similar to the varieties which occur _in situ_ on
+the height of land, are common on the beach at Fort Franklin, and on the
+banks of the Mackenzie above Bear Lake.
+
+To the westward of the height of land, the country on the banks of Dease
+River is more level, and few rocks _in situ_ were seen, until within
+five or six miles of Bear Lake, where the stream flows through a chasm,
+whose sides are composed of a soft, fine-grained red sandstone, like
+that which occurs in the vale of Dumfries, in Scotland. Several ravines
+here have their sides composed of fine sand, inclosing fragments of soft
+sandstone.
+
+About three miles from the mouth of Dease River we came to a limestone
+formation, which has been already noticed in the account of the
+geological structure of the shores of Great Bear Lake.
+
+
+EASTERN CHAIN OF PRIMITIVE ROCKS.
+
+The preceding part of the paper describing the rock formations which
+were noticed on the route of the expedition from Great Slave Lake down
+the Mackenzie along the shores of the Arctic Sea, the Coppermine, Great
+Bear Lake, and Great Bear River, being a distance of three thousand
+miles, I shall, by way of supplement, mention very briefly some of the
+more southern deposits.
+
+The first I have to speak of is the chain of primitive rocks to which I
+have alluded in page 289, as extending for a very great distance in a
+north-west direction, and inclining in the northern parts slightly
+towards the Rocky Mountain Chain. Dr. Bigsby, in his account of the
+geology of Lake Huron says, that "The primitive rocks on the northern
+shores of that lake are part of a vast chain, of which the southern
+portion, extending probably uninterruptedly from the north and east of
+Lake Winipeg, passes thence along the northern shores of Lakes Superior,
+Huron, and Simcoe, and after forming the granitic barrier of the
+Thousand Isles, at the outlet of Lake Ontario, spreads itself largely
+throughout the state of New York, and there joins with the Alleghanies,
+and their southern continuations." It is not my intention to say any
+thing further of the rocks in the districts of which Dr. Bigsby speaks,
+although in travelling from the United States to Lake Winipeg the
+expedition passed over them. That zealous geologist has already given,
+in various publications, many interesting and accurate details of the
+formations on the borders of the great lakes; an account of those which
+lie some degrees farther to the north is inserted in the second volume
+of the Geological Transactions,--and there are some notices of them in
+the Appendix to the narrative of Captain Franklin's First Journey. My
+object at present is, merely to trace the western boundary of the
+primitive rocks in their course through the more northerly parts of the
+American continent.
+
+I have already quoted Sir Alexander Mackenzie's original and important
+remark, of the principal lakes in those quarters being interposed
+betwixt the primitive rocks and the secondary strata, lying to the
+westward of them--Lake Winipeg is an instance in point. It is a long,
+narrow lake, and is bounded throughout on its east side by primitive
+rocks, mostly granitic, whilst its more indented western shore is formed
+of horizontal limestone strata. The western boundary of the primitive
+rocks, extending on this lake about two hundred and eighty miles, has
+nearly a north-north-west direction. From Norway Point, at the north end
+of the lake, to Isle a la Crosse, a distance of four hundred and twenty
+miles in a straight line, the boundary has a west-north-west direction.
+For two hundred and forty miles from Isle a la Crosse to Athabasca Lake,
+the course of the primitive rocks is unknown to me; but from Athabasca
+Lake to M'Tavish's Bay, in Great Bear Lake, a distance of five hundred
+miles, their western edge runs about north-west-by-west, and is marked
+by the Slave River, a deep inlet on the north side of Great Slave Lake,
+and a chain of rivers and lakes, (including great Marten Lake,) which
+discharge themselves into that inlet.
+
+Captain Franklin on his voyage crossed this primitive chain nearly at
+right angles to its line of direction, in proceeding from Hudson's Bay
+to Lake Winipeg--it was there two hundred and twenty miles wide.
+
+The hills composing the chain are of small elevation, none of them
+rising much above the surrounding country. They have mostly rounded
+summits, and they do not form continuous ridges; but are detached from
+each other, by vallies of various breadth, though generally narrow, and
+very seldom level. The sides of the hills are steep, often precipitous.
+When the vallies are of considerable extent, they are almost invariably
+occupied by a lake, the proportion of water in this primitive district
+being very great; from the top of the highest hill on the Hill River,
+which has not a greater altitude than six hundred feet, thirty-six lakes
+are said to be visible. The small elevation of the chain may be inferred
+from an examination of the map, which shows that it is crossed by
+several rivers, that rise in the Rocky Mountains, the most considerable
+of which are the Churchill and the Saskatchewan, or Nelson River. These
+great streams have, for many hundred miles from their origin, the
+ordinary appearance of rivers, in being bounded by continuous parallel
+banks; but on entering the primitive district, they present chains of
+lake-like dilatations, which are full of islands, and have a very
+irregular outline. Many of the numerous arms of these expansions wind
+for miles through the neighbouring country, and the whole district bears
+a striking resemblance, in the manner in which it is intersected by
+water, to the coast of Norway and the adjoining part of Sweden. The
+successive dilatations of the rivers have scarcely any current, but are
+connected to each other by one or more straits, in which the
+water-course is more or less obstructed by rocks, and the stream is very
+turbulent and rapid. The most prevalent rock in the chain is gneiss; but
+there is also granite and mica-slate, together with numerous beds of
+amphibolic rocks.
+
+
+LIMESTONE OF LAKE WINIPEG.
+
+To the westward of the chain of primitive rocks, through a great part,
+if not through the whole of its course, lies an extensive horizontal
+deposit of limestone.
+
+Dr. Bigsby, in the Geological Transactions, has described, in detail,
+the limestone of Lake Huron, and is disposed to refer "the cavernous and
+brecciated limestone of Michilimackinac to the magnesian breccia, which
+is in England connected with the red marl;" whilst the limestones of St.
+Joseph, and the northern isles, he considers as more resembling the
+well-known formation of Dudley, in Staffordshire. The limestone of
+Thessalon Isle, in which there occurs the remarkable species of
+orthoceratite which he has figured, he describes as decidedly magnesian.
+I observed this orthoceratite in the limestone strata of one of the
+isles forming the passage of La Cloche in Lake Huron. The limestone
+deposits of Lake Winipeg and Cape Parry exactly resemble that of La
+Cloche in mineralogical characters, and in containing the same
+orthoceratite which was also found by Captains Parry and Lyon at
+Igloolik.
+
+The colour of the limestone of Lake Winipeg is very generally
+yellowish-white, passing into buff, on the one hand, and into ash-gray
+on the other. A reddish tinge is also occasionally observed. Much of it
+has a flat fracture, with little or no lustre, and a fine-grained
+arenacious structure. A great portion of it, however, is compact, and
+has a flat conchoidal and slightly splintery fracture. This variety
+passes into a beautiful china-like chert. [Sidenote: 1001, 1014] Many of
+the beds are full of long, narrow vesicular cavities, which are lined
+sometimes with calc-spar, but more frequently with minute crystals of
+quartz. The beds of this formation seldom exceed a foot in thickness,
+and are often very thin and slaty. The arenacious and cherty varieties
+frequently occur in the same bed; sometimes they form distinct beds. The
+softer kinds weather readily into a white marl, which is used by the
+residents to whitewash their houses. Wherever extensive surfaces of the
+strata were exposed, as in the channels of rivers, they were observed to
+be traversed by rents crossing each other at various angles. The larger
+rents, which were sometimes two yards or more in width, were however,
+generally parallel to each other for a considerable distance.
+
+Professor Jameson enumerates _terebratulae_, _orthoceratites_,
+_encrinites_, _caryophyllitae_, and _lingulae_, as the organic remains in
+the specimens brought home by Captain Franklin on his first expedition.
+Mr. Stokes and Mr. James De Carle Sowerby have examined those which we
+procured on the last expedition, and found amongst them
+_terebratulites_, _spirifers_, _maclurites_, and _corallines_. The
+maclurites belonging to the same species, with specimens from Lakes Erie
+and Huron, and also from Igloolik, are perhaps referrible to the
+_Maclurea magna_ of Le Sueur. [Sidenote: 1015, 1019] Mr. Sowerby
+determined a shell, occurring in great abundance in the strata at
+Cumberland-house, about one hundred and twenty miles to the westward of
+Lake Winipeg, to be the _Pentamerus Aylesfordii_.
+
+The extent to the westward of the limestone deposit of Lake Winipeg is
+not well known to me; but I have traced it as far up the Saskatchewan as
+Carlton House, and its breadth there is at least two hundred and eighty
+miles. For about one hundred miles below Carlton House, the river
+Saskatchewan flows betwixt banks from one to two hundred feet in height,
+consisting of clay or sand, and the beds of limestone are exposed in
+very few places. The plains in the neighbourhood of Carlton abound in
+small lakes, some of which are salt. The country which the Saskatchewan
+waters for one hundred and ninety miles before it enters Lake Winipeg,
+is of a different kind. It is still more flat than that about Carlton,
+and is so little raised above the level of the river, that in the
+spring-floods the whole is inundated, and in several places the river
+sends off branches which reunite with it after a course of many miles.
+In this quarter the soil is generally thin, and the limestone strata are
+almost every where extensively exposed. To the southward of Cumberland
+House, the Basquiau Hill has considerable elevation. I had not an
+opportunity of visiting it; but in the flat limestone strata, near its
+foot, there are salt springs, from which the Indians sometimes procure a
+considerable quantity of salt by boiling; and there are several
+sulphureous springs within the formation.
+
+I observed no beds of conglomerate in it, and no sandstone associated
+with it; but the extensive plains which lie betwixt Carlton House and
+the Rocky Mountains are sandy, and beds of sandstone are said to be
+visible in some of the ravines.
+
+The line of contact of the limestone with the primitive rocks of Lake
+Winipeg, is covered with water; but at the Dog's-Head, and near the
+north end of Beaver Lake, they are exposed within less than a mile of
+each other. To the southward of the Dog's-Head in Lake Winipeg, and in a
+few other quarters, some schistose rocks, belonging to the transition
+series, are interposed between the two formations.
+
+Before quitting the formations of Lake Winipeg, I may remark, that the
+height of that lake above the sea is perhaps equal to that of Lake
+Superior, which is eight hundred feet.
+
+
+LIMESTONE OF THE ELK AND SLAVE RIVERS.
+
+The next formation I have to mention is one which appears to possess
+most of the characters ascribed by German geologists to the zechstein.
+It extends from the north side of the Methy carrying-place down the
+Clearwater, Elk, and Slave Rivers, and along the south shore of Great
+Slave Lake to the efflux of the Mackenzie. The line I have traced was
+the route of the expedition, and is also very nearly that of the eastern
+boundary of the limestone. Primitive rocks occur in Lake Mammawee,
+Athabasca Lake, and on the Stony River; and on several parts of the
+Slave River they are separated from the limestone only by the breadth of
+the stream. On Great Slave Lake, the Stony Island, on the north-east
+side of the mouth of Slave River, is composed of granite, whilst the
+limestone strata are exposed at Fort Resolution on the south-west side.
+
+[Sidenote: 1027, 1028] The limestone in this extensive tract is commonly
+in thin and nearly horizontal beds, and much of it exactly resembles in
+mineralogical characters the dolomite and chert of Lake Winipeg. It is
+interstratified with thin beds of soft white marl; and in a few places
+with a marly sandstone. Extensive beds of stinkstone also occur, and
+many beds of limestone containing fluid bitumen in cavities. The bitumen
+is in such quantity, in some quarters, as to flow in streams from
+fissures in the rock; and in an extensive district, around Pierre au
+Calumet on the Elk River, slaggy mineral pitch fills the crevices in the
+soil, and may be collected in large quantities by digging a well.
+
+A calcareous breccia also exists in various places, particularly on the
+Slave River. Springs depositing from their waters sulphur, and sulphate
+of lime, slightly mixed with sulphate of magnesia, muriate of soda, and
+iron, are common and copious. A few miles to the westward of the Slave
+River, there is a ridge of hills several miles long, and about two
+hundred feet high, having several beds of compact, grayish gypsum
+exposed on its sides. From the base of this hill there issue seven or
+eight very copious, and many smaller springs, whose waters deposit a
+great quantity of very fine muriate of soda by spontaneous evaporation.
+The collected rivulets from these springs form a stream which is, at its
+junction with the Slave River, sixty yards wide and eight or ten feet
+deep.
+
+[Sidenote: 1020 to 1026] The organic remains, in this deposit, according
+a list kindly furnished by Mr. Sowerby, consist of _spirifers_,
+[Sidenote: 1029 to 1032] one of which is the _spirifer acuta_; several
+new _terebratulae_, of which one resembles the _T. resupinata_, a
+_cirrus_, some crinoidal remains, and corals.
+
+At the union of Clearwater and Elk Rivers, the limestone beds are
+covered to the depth of one hundred and fifty feet with bituminous
+shale.
+
+I have stated, that on Slave River this limestone formation succeeds
+immediately to primitive rocks, but I am not acquainted with the rocks
+that lie to the eastward of it on the Elk River. The traders report that
+there are extensive deposits of sandstone on the eastern arm of the
+Athabasca Lake, and, perhaps, these sandstones extend nearly to
+Clearwater River. Sand covers the limestone on that river to the depth
+of eight or nine hundred feet, and the fragments of sandstone in it are
+large, numerous, and not worn.
+
+The quantity of gypsum in immediate connection with extremely copious
+and rich salt springs, and the great abundance of petroleum in this
+formation, together with the arenacious, soft, marly, and brecciated
+beds interstratified with the dolomite, and above all, the circumstance
+of the latter being by far the most common and extensive rock in the
+deposit, led me to think that the limestone of the Elk and Slave Rivers
+was equivalent to the zechstein of the continental geologists. My
+opinion, however, on this subject is, from a total want of practical
+acquaintance with the European rock formations, of little weight; and
+several eminent geologists are, after an examination of the organic
+remains and mineralogical characters of the specimens brought home,
+inclined to consider the formation as analogous to the carboniferous or
+mountain-limestone of England.
+
+As to the limestone formation of Lake Winipeg, I have no doubt of its
+identity with that occurring in the islands at the passage of La Cloche,
+in Lake Huron, and also with that at Cape Parry and at Cape Krusenstern,
+on the coast of the Arctic Sea. It is probable, also, that these four
+deposits belong to the same epoch with the limestone of Elk and Slave
+Rivers, although they differ in containing little or no petroleum. It is
+proper to mention, however adverse it may be to the opinion I have
+ventured to hint at above, of these extensive horizontal deposits of
+limestone being referable to the zechstein, that the limestone of Lake
+Huron is generally considered as belonging to the mountain-limestone;
+and Professor Jameson, from a review of the organic remains occurring in
+the Lake Winipeg deposit, considered that it also belonged to that
+formation. The formation of Cape Lyon may be, with less danger of a
+mistake, referred to the transition or mountain-limestone.
+
+THE END.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+FOOTNOTES:
+
+[20] This was estimated by allowing one foot descent per mile for Bear
+Lake River, whose length is seventy miles; and three inches per mile for
+the descent of Mackenzie River, from the junction of the former river to
+the sea, being a distance of five hundred miles.
+
+[21] In our former journey, we sounded near the Rein-Deer Islands in
+Slave Lake, with sixty-five fathoms line, without reaching the bottom.
+
+[22] Section of the cliffs at Limestone Point--strata dipping to the
+N.N.W.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+In the section the strata are represented much more inclined than they
+really are.
+
+231 Fine-grained, nearly compact, yellowish-gray dolomite, forming the
+summit of the hill, but the first, or lowest stratum, in the language of
+geologists.
+
+232 Compact, splintery dolomite, with a conchoidal fracture, and
+wax-yellow colour--second stratum.
+
+233 A cherty dolomite; containing calc-spar--third stratum.
+
+234 Bluish-gray dolomite, traversed by calc-spar--is nearly compact, and
+has an uneven, splintery fracture--forms the uppermost portion of the
+fourth stratum.
+
+235 Talcose? limestone, having a curved slaty structure, and containing
+cherty portions--from the lower part of the fourth stratum.
+
+236, 237 Earthy greenstone? forms the fifth stratum.
+
+238 Brownish-red dolomite, with an uneven fracture; scarcely splintery.
+It has a compact structure, and is intersected by veins of
+calc-spar--from the sixth stratum.
+
+239 Light yellowish gray dolomite, passing into chert--seventh stratum.
+
+240, 241 Thin slaty beds of brownish-red dolomite, like 238--eighth
+stratum.
+
+242 Bluish-white porcelain chert, sometimes mixed with red
+dolomite--243--ninth stratum.
+
+[23] _List of boulders gathered on the beach at Fort Franklin._
+
+261 Coarse crystalline granite; felspar flesh-red in large crystals;
+quartz gray; mica black.
+
+262 Granite; felspar paler, and less distinctly crystallized; quartz in
+small quantity, gray; mica blackish, and rather abundant.
+
+263 Granite; felspar partly reddish, partly yellowish-white, quartz in
+small grains; mica equalling the quartz in quantity, black.
+
+264 Granite, fine-grained: quartz and felspar, white, the former nearly
+transparent, black mica in small specks, garnets.
+
+265, 268 Granite; quartz in regular crystals; mica blackish, in small
+quantity.
+
+266 Granite? red felspar in large crystals; quartz gray; mica replaced
+by chlorite?
+
+267 Granite; felspar gray; chlorite? in small quantity.
+
+269 Granite, small grained, passing into gneiss; reddish-brown felspar
+and gray quartz, intimately mixed, and having in the aggregate, a
+vitreous lustre; mica in layers.
+
+270 Granite coarser grained than the preceding, containing more quartz;
+the mica disseminated.
+
+271, 273 Granite with little mica, some portions of the felspar tinged
+green.
+
+272, 274, 275, 277, 278, 279, 280, Granite grayish and small grained
+mica black.
+
+276 Granite; brick-red felspar; quartz; and augite?--no mica.
+
+The mica is mostly black in all the granite boulders that occur here,
+the felspar most frequently reddish.
+
+281 Porphyritic granite? felspar imperfectly crystallized, containing
+large, imbedded crystals; quartz; and chlorite?
+
+282 Granite? composed of felspar, of quartz, with, perhaps, a few minute
+grains of chlorite?
+
+283 Granite? contains little quartz, and a few scales of mica, with some
+chlorite?
+
+284 Sienite; felspar somewhat granular, a little quartz and chlorite?
+
+285 Porphyritic sienite? having a basis of slightly granular felspar,
+with light-coloured crystals of felspar, some quartz and disseminated
+grains of chlorite?
+
+286 Reddish-brown hornstone porphyry.
+
+287 Crystalline greenstone.
+
+288 Fine-grained greenstone.
+
+289 Porphyritic greenstone.
+
+290 Pitchstone porphyry.
+
+291 Greenstone slate with pyrites.
+
+292 Amygdaloidal claystone porphyry.
+
+293 Compact grayish-blue dolomite.
+
+294 Splintery dolomite.
+
+295 Cellular dolomite.
+
+296 Swinestone.
+
+297 Limestone with corallines.
+
+298 Chert.
+
+299 White quartz.
+
+300 Quartz-rock.
+
+301 Coarse sandstone.
+
+302 Fine-grained white sandstone.
+
+303 Fine-grained red sandstone.
+
+304 Fine-grained striped sandstone.
+
+305 Fine-grained spotted sandstone.
+
+306 Slaty sandstone verging towards slate-clay.
+
+307 Dark-red claystone.
+
+308 Light-coloured claystone.
+
+[24] _List of Specimens from Diluvial Gravel, Fort Franklin._
+
+1 Amphibolic granite, rather coarse crystalline, felspar flesh-red.
+
+2 Ditto, approaching to gneiss.
+
+3 Gneiss approaching to mica-slate, felspar white, and in small
+quantity.
+
+4 Greenstone with much felspar and minute disseminated pyrites.
+
+5 Quartz rock? having brownish and imperfect crystals, and a reddish
+disintegrated mineral disseminated.
+
+6 Brownish-red and fine granular quartz-rock, with a somewhat splintery
+fracture. It has the aspect of compact felspar.
+
+7 Quartz rock, reddish crystalline texture, and vitreous lustre, but
+with small rounded grains imbedded in it, bringing it near to sandstone.
+
+8 Coarse sandstone; rounded grains of quartz united by a clayey basis.
+
+9 Fine-grained purplish sandstone, with grayish spots. This sandstone
+occurs _in situ_ near the Copper Mountains, between Dease Bay and the
+Coppermine River.
+
+10 Fine-grained yellowish-white sandstone.
+
+11 Yellowish-gray sandstone, composed of small rounded grains of quartz
+united by a powdery white basis.
+
+12 Yellowish-gray sandstone, composed of fine grains of vitreous quartz.
+
+13 Sandstone, having different shades of brownish-red colour, in layers.
+
+14 Lydian stone.
+
+[25] Mr. Sowerby, who inspected all the specimens containing organic
+remains, says of this species of ammonite, "it is, as far as I can
+discover, new. It contains sulphate of barytes, and is probably
+referrible to some of the Oolites near the Oxford clay." Although it was
+found lying on the beach, I have no doubt of its having fallen from some
+of the beds of clayey sandstone, which form the walls of the rapid.
+
+[26] 33 This limestone appears as if composed of an aggregate of small
+crystals, and presents many drusy cavities.
+
+34 Is an adjoining bed of a similar colour, of a fine crystalline
+texture, but without the drusy cavities. It appears to be a dolomite.
+These two beds dip to the northward.
+
+35, 36 Calcareous breccia. The two preceding beds (33 and 34) were from
+the summit of the portion of the hill which forms the cliff, but taken a
+little farther to the N.W. In the cliff the beds dip, as has been
+stated, to the S.W. The following beds occur in going to the
+north-westward, towards the summit of the highest peak, commencing near
+its base, in a valley behind the cliff.
+
+37 A fine-grained blackish-gray dolomite, having interspersed many
+nodules of chert, or grayish-white quartz, not crystallized.
+
+38 A very compact, opaque limestone, of a smoke-gray colour, having a
+flat and slightly splintery fracture. Effervesces briskly.
+
+39 Blackish-gray rather compact limestone, having a flat and dull
+fracture, and intersected by small veins of calc-spar. This is a
+prevalent stone in the hill, and also occurs in quantity in other
+limestone ridges in the neighbourhood.
+
+40 An ash-gray, fine-granular dolomite.
+
+41 A conglomerate, forming the summit of the highest peak.
+
+[27] 57 This breccia has a white calcareous basis, which incloses
+angular fragments of compact, yellowish-gray limestone, with smooth dull
+surfaces.
+
+58 Grayish-white limestone, having a fine crystalline texture, with
+drusy cavities, incrusted with bitumen.
+
+59 Limestone, apparently composed of crystalline fragments, highly
+charged with bitumen, cemented by a whitish carbonate of lime in minute
+crystals. I could not satisfy myself whether this variety of colour
+proceeded from partial impregnations of bitumen, or from a brecciated
+structure. Specimens 58 and 59 were from beds near the western part of
+the hill.
+
+60 A fine-grained dolomite, approaching to compact, having a flat and
+somewhat splintery fracture, and a brownish-gray colour.
+
+61, 62 Limestone in the body of the hill, resembling No. 39 in the hill
+at the rapid in Bear Lake River, but with larger veins of calc-spar.
+
+63, 64 Dark blackish-brown bituminous shale, veined with calc-spar, and
+passing into bituminous marl-slate. It contains nodules of iron pyrites.
+
+65 Thin bed of indurated shale, approaching to flinty-slate, lying at
+the foot of some beds of bituminous limestone. Their connection not
+clearly made out.
+
+66, 67, 68 Bluish-gray, fine-grained sandstone, some of them passing
+into slate-clay, and scarcely to be distinguished from those at the
+rapid in Bear Lake River. Capt. Franklin took these specimens from
+horizontal beds at the foot of the hill facing Bear Lake River.
+
+[28] Sir Alexander Mackenzie, in p. 95 of his Voyage to the Arctic Sea,
+states, that he saw several small mineral springs running from the foot
+of this mountain, and found lumps of iron ore on the beach.
+
+[29] Travels in the Arkansa, p. 52-54.
+
+[30] Section I.
+
+  The section of the bank at the mouth of the Bear Lake River
+  is as follows, beginning with the lowest bed:--
+
+  81 Gravel, with thin layers of sand rising from the water's
+       edge in a perpendicular cliff, to the height of           30 feet
+     Lignite (70 to 80 and 84)                                    1
+  83 Potter's clay of a bluish gray colour, alternating
+       with layers of sand                                       40
+     A sloping uneven brow, covered with soil, extends
+       to the summit of the bank                                 20
+                                                                ----
+                                                                 91
+
+Lydian stone is the most abundant, and whitish quartz the least so of
+the pebbles mentioned in the text as entering into the composition of
+the gravel.
+
+[Sidenote: 82] A little farther up the Mackenzie, this bed of gravel
+passes into sand, which, in some spots, has sufficient coherence to
+merit for it the name of sandstone. During a great part even of the
+summer season, all the beds of sand are frozen into a hard sandstone;
+but a piece having been broken off and put into the pocket, speedily
+thawed into sand.
+
+[Sidenote: 83] Specimens of the clay, which I have denominated potter's
+clay, taken from near the beds of lignite, have a colour intermediate
+between yellowish-gray and clove-brown, a dull earthy fracture, and a
+slightly greasy feel. It is not gritty under the knife, and acquires a
+slightly shining smooth surface, adheres slightly to the tongue, and,
+when moistened with water, assumes a darker colour, and becomes plastic.
+
+Section II.
+
+  About five miles above Bear Lake River, the cliff consists
+  of Slaty sandstone evidently composed of the same materials
+  with the friable kinds described in the text, but having
+  tenacity enough to form a building stone. It incloses some
+  seams of lignite                                               10 feet
+  Lignite                                                         4-1/2
+  Clay and Sand                                                  50
+  Irregular slope from top of cliff to summit of bank            90
+                                                               ---------
+                                                                154-1/2
+
+Section III.
+
+  A little farther up the river than the preceding:--
+
+  85 Pipe-clay on a level with the water                          1 foot
+  86 Lignite                                                      1
+  90 Potter's clay                                               14 feet
+  87 Pipe-clay                                                    1 foot
+  89 Lignite                                                      1
+  91 Potter's clay                                               10 feet
+     Lignite                                                      1 foot
+     Sandstone                                                    8 feet
+     Lignite                                                      2-1/2
+     Potter's clay                                               10
+  94 Friable sandstone and clay                                  20
+     Sandstone a little more durable                             12
+     Sloping Summit                                              40
+                                                               ---------
+                                                                121-1/2
+
+The pipe-clay, when taken newly from the bed, is soft and plastic, has
+little grittiness, and when chewed for a little time, a somewhat
+unctuous but not unpleasant taste. When dried in the air it acquires the
+hardness of chalk, adheres to the tongue, and has the appearance of the
+whiter kinds of English pipe-clay, but is more meagre.
+
+Section IV.
+
+  A little above the preceding:--
+
+  A precipitous bank of gravel                                   12 feet
+  Lignite and clay, the beds concealed by debris                 40
+  Friable sandstone                                              30
+                                                                ----
+    Height of the cliff                                          82
+
+Section V.
+
+  Ten miles above Bear Lake River, at the junction of a small torrent
+  with the Mackenzie, there is a cliff about forty feet high, in which
+  the strata have a dip of sixty degrees to the southward.
+
+  98 Bed, No. 1  Porcelain clay                                 2 yards
+              2  Potter's clay slightly bituminous
+  99          3  Thin-slaty lignite, with two seams of          2-1/2
+  100, 101       clay-iron stone, an inch thick
+              4  Pipe clay, (nine inches)                         1/4
+  104         5  Porcelain clay                                 3
+  105         6  Bituminous clay                                3
+  106         7  Lignite, with a conchoidal fracture            2
+              8  Pipe clay                                        1/4
+  107         9  Porcelain clay                                 3
+             10  Bituminous clay                                3
+  110        11  Lignite, earthy paste, enclosing               2
+                 fibrous fragments
+             12  Porcelain earth                             }
+             13  Bituminous clay                             }  9
+             14  Porcelain earth                             }
+                                                              ----------
+                                                               31 yards.
+
+The three last beds it is probable, once inclosed seams of coal which
+have been consumed, but the quantity of debris prevented this from being
+ascertained satisfactorily during the hurried visit I paid to them.
+
+[Sidenote: 108] Over these inclined beds there is a shelving and
+crumbling cliff of sand and clay covered by a sloping bank of vegetable
+earth. A layer of peat at the summit has a thin slaty structure, and
+presents altogether, except in colour and lustre, a striking resemblance
+to the shaly lignite, forming bed No. 3 in the preceding Section.
+
+104, 98. The substance composing beds Nos. 1 and 5, which I have
+denominated Porcelain clay, has a fine, granular texture, and the
+appearance of some varieties of chalk. It adheres slightly to the
+tongue, yields readily to the nail, is meagre, and soils the fingers
+slightly. There are many specks of coaly matter disseminated through it,
+and some minute scales of mica, and perhaps of quartz. When moistened
+with water, it becomes more friable, and is not plastic. It does not
+effervesce with acids.
+
+Bed No. 9 is the same mineral that forms beds 1 and 5; but it has a
+grayer colour from the greater quantity of coaly particles, and its
+structure is slightly slaty.
+
+The bituminous clay of bed No. 6, has a thick-slaty structure, a
+grayish-black colour, and a shining resinous streak. It is sectile, but
+does not yield to the nail. Pieces of lignite occur imbedded in it, and
+it is traversed by fibrous ramifications of carbonaceous matter.
+
+Specimens 115, 116, 117, 118, 119, are of substances altered by contact
+with beds of burning coal.
+
+[31] See Page 50 of the Narrative.
+
+[32] Noticed in page 267.
+
+[33] List of specimens, collected by Captain Franklin, on the sea-coast,
+to the westward of the Mackenzie.
+
+_From Mount Fitton in the Richardson Chain._
+
+344 Grauwacke-slate in columnar concretions, detached from the rocky
+strata by an Esquimaux.
+
+348 Grauwacke-slate, resembling the preceding, from the same place. Used
+by the Esquimaux as a whetstone.
+
+345, 346 Globular balls of dark, blackish-gray, splintery limestone, and
+of flinty-slate, traversed by minute veins of calc-spar. Picked up at
+the base of the mountain.
+
+347 Worn pebbles of quartz, lydian stone, splintery limestone, and
+grauwacke, from the same spot.
+
+349 Fine-grained, mountain-green clay-slate, approaching to potstone;
+quarried by the Esquimaux in the Cupola Mountain of the same chain, and
+used to form utensils.
+
+350 Rock-crystal from the same chain of mountains.
+
+_From the beach between Point Sabine and Point King._
+
+351 Brown-coal, woody structure scarcely perceptible. There are beds of
+this coal in the earthy cliffs where the party was encamped on the 13th
+and 14th July near Point King.
+
+352 Clay-iron stone, forming boulders in the channels of the rills,
+which cut the earthy banks containing coal.
+
+353, 354 Pitch-coal, having a fibrous structure and a very beautiful
+fracture, presenting a congeries of circles. (This coal was recognised
+by Professor Buckland to be a tertiary pitch-coal, and is precisely
+similar to specimens brought from the upper branches of the
+Saskatchewan, by Mr. Drummond: see page 284.) The specimen was picked up
+from the gravelly beach at the mouth of the Babbage River.
+
+355 Greenish-gray limestone, with a somewhat earthy granular aspect;
+containing shells which Mr. Sowerby considers to be very like the
+_cyclas medius_ of the Sussex weald-clay. Picked up at the same place
+with the preceding specimen.
+
+Captain Franklin remarks, that "the Babbage flows between the mountains
+of the Richardson Chain, and that there were no solid strata nor any
+large boulders near its mouth. The gravel consisted of pebbles of red
+and white sandstone, slaty limestone, greenstone, and porphyry, much
+worn by attrition."
+
+_From Mount Conybeare, in the Buckland Chain._
+
+356 Greenish-gray grauwacke slate, (resembling No. 348,) with specks of
+effervescent carbonate of lime. The surfaces of the slates exhibit
+interspersed scales of mica. The specimens were broken from the summit
+of Mount Conybeare, at the western extreme of the Buckland Chain:
+latitude 69 degrees 27 minutes, longitude 139 degrees 53 minutes west.
+
+358 Fine-grained grauwacke-slate in columnar concretions, from the same
+place with specimen 356.
+
+357 Grauwacke-slate, in thick slaty columnar concretions, besprinkled
+with scales of mica. Taken from a bed about the middle of Mount
+Conybeare. The resemblance of this stone to that of Mount Fitton (No.
+344) is very remarkable.
+
+360 Similar rock to 358, with an adhering portion of a vein of
+crystallized quartz, and on one side a bit of bluish-gray slate. From
+the middle of Mount Conybeare.
+
+359 Columnar concretion of a slaty rock, like 356, but more quartzose,
+breaking into rhomboidal fragments. From the middle of Mount Conybeare.
+
+361, 362 Grauwacke-slate, with a thin adhering vein of carbonate of lime
+and numerous particles of disseminated mica. From the middle of Mount
+Conybeare.
+
+363 Bluish-gray grauwacke-slate, resembling Nos. 348 and 344. From the
+Upper Terrace, at the base of Mount Conybeare.
+
+364 Dark-bluish gray and very fine-grained grauwacke-slate, with a
+glimmering lustre, traversed by a vein of quartz. From the same place.
+
+365 A thick-slaty angular concretion of a very quartzose
+grauwacke-slate, (similar to Nos. 348 and 358,) decomposed on the
+surface and breaking into rhomboidal fragments. From the middle Terrace
+at the base of Mount Conybeare.
+
+366 A somewhat rhomboidal portion of flinty-slate, apparently part of a
+bed. From the Lower Terrace of Mount Conybeare, which is composed of
+this rock. The terrace is ten miles distant from the sea-coast, and the
+intervening ground is swampy.
+
+The whole series of specimens from Mount Conybeare, (Nos. 356 to 366,)
+appear to belong to transition rocks; and the continuity of the
+formation with that of Mount Fitton is rendered probable, both by the
+resemblance of the specimens and the geographical situation of the
+mountains.
+
+Captain Franklin saw no rocks, _in situ_, on the coast to the westward
+of the Richardson Chain; but he gathered boulders of the following rocks
+from the bed of the Net-setting Rivulet, which flows from the British
+Chain of the Rocky Mountains, and falls into the Arctic Sea, between Sir
+P. Malcolm River and Backhouse River.
+
+367 Greenstone; 368, yellowish-gray sandstone; 369, dark-coloured
+splintery-limestone; 370, 371, 372, dolomite; 373, quartzose sandstone,
+like the old red sandstone; 374, grauwacke-slate; 375, quartz and iron
+pyrites.
+
+Boulders of the under-mentioned rocks were gathered on Flaxman Island.
+
+378 Fine-grained, greenish clay-slate, obviously of primitive rock,
+abundant in the neighbourhood, and supposed to have been brought down by
+the rivulets which flow from the Romanzoff Chain. 379, quartz.
+
+376 and 377 were from Foggy Island, and are rolled specimens of
+flinty-slate; one of them containing corallines.
+
+[34] Page 268.
+
+[35] 134. These specimens have a wood-brown colour internally, and
+appear to be composed of minute grains of quartz, variously coloured,
+white, yellowish-brown and black, cemented together by an earthy basis.
+It is a hard and apparently durable stone, occurring in layers an inch
+thick, and having its seam-surfaces of a grayish-black colour, with
+little lustre, as if from a thin coating of bituminous clay.
+
+135, are specimens of a more compact, harder, and finer-grained
+quartzose sandstone, with less cement, and of a deeper bluish-gray
+colour.
+
+[36] Mackenzie attempted to ascend this hill, but was compelled to
+desist by clouds of musquitoes, (July 6th, 1789. _Voyage to the Arctic
+Sea_, p. 40.)
+
+136 This limestone effervesces strongly with acids, breaks into
+irregular fragments, but with an imperfect slaty structure, and has a
+brown colour, with considerable lustre in the cross fracture.
+
+The specimens collected by Captain Franklin were as follows:--
+
+144a Sandstone of an ash-gray colour, composed of rounded grains of
+semi-transparent quartz of various sizes, imbedded in a considerable
+proportion of a powdery basis which effervesces with acids. This bed
+weathers readily.
+
+145 Thick-slaty sandstone passing into slate-clay, having a very
+fine-grained earthy fracture, and a light bluish-gray colour. It is very
+similar to some of the softer sandstones that occur in the coal field at
+Edinburgh, particularly in the Calton Hill.
+
+146 Sectile ash-gray slate-clay which forms the partings of the beds.
+
+144b Bluish-gray marl, impregnated with quartz, forming a moderately
+hard stone, and containing corallines (_amplexus_.)
+
+[37] _Upper part of the ramparts._
+
+148 A fine-granular, foliated limestone, of a white colour, having large
+patches stained yellowish-brown, apparently by bitumen.
+
+149 A yellowish-gray slightly granular limestone, with disseminated
+calc-spar.
+
+150 Compact, white limestone, which, when examined with a lens, appears
+to be entirely composed of madrepores.
+
+151 Specimens of limestone, having a crystalline texture, a brownish
+colour and slaty structure.
+
+152 The seams are dark, as if from the carbonaceous matter--portions of
+this bed have the appearance of old mortar; but contain obscure
+madrepores.
+
+_From the middle of the ramparts._
+
+153 Fine-granular limestone, having a pale, wood-brown colour, and a
+splintery fracture. It resembles the limestone of the hill at the mouth
+of Bear Lake River.
+
+154 Pale yellowish-brown limestone, with a dull fracture, but
+interspersed with small, shining, sparry plates, and traversed by
+concretions of calc-spar, that appear to have originated in corallines.
+
+155 Yellowish-gray limestone, passing into a soft marl slate.
+
+156 Some beds contain a shell, which Mr. Sowerby refers, though with
+doubt, to the species named terebratula sphaeroidalis, a fossil of the
+cornbrash. The substance of the shells is preserved.
+
+Some of the specimens contain _producti_, and fragments of the coral
+named _amplexus_.
+
+_Lower end of the ramparts._
+
+157 Fine-grained limestone, of a dark-brown colour, containing some
+small, round, smooth balls of dark limestone--occurs in horizontal
+strata.
+
+158 Brownish-black flinty-slate, which forms a layer an inch thick, and
+covers the horizontal beds of limestone last mentioned. (157.)
+
+[38] _Specimens from the cliffs in lat. 66-3/4 degrees._
+
+159 Very fine-grained sandstone, with much clayey basis--portions of the
+bed iron-shot.
+
+160 Sandstone fine-grained, and appearing, when examined with a lens, to
+be composed of minute grains of whitish translucent quartz, black Lydian
+stone, and ochre-coloured grains, probably of disintegrated felspar.
+
+161 Rounded grains of nearly transparent quartz united without
+cement--this stone is friable.
+
+162 Sandstone composed of grains like the preceding, united by a basis,
+and forming a firmer stone.
+
+163 Hard, thin, slaty, bluish-gray sandstone, much iron-shot.
+
+164 Fine-grained, bluish-gray sandstone, not to be distinguished in
+hand-specimens from some of the sandstones which occur at the rapid in
+Bear Lake River.
+
+[39] _Horizontal limestone beds lying under the sandstone._
+
+166 Fine-grained limestone, with an earthy fracture, coloured brown and
+grayish-white in patches.
+
+167, 168 Similar stone to preceding, containing many shells. Some beds
+contain only broken shells.
+
+169 Bed of imperfectly crystalline limestone, of a brownish-gray colour,
+traversed by veins of calc-spar.
+
+170 Fragments containing madrepores and chain coral--occur amongst the
+debris of the limestone cliffs.
+
+[40] _Sandstone cliffs twenty miles below Fort Good Hope._
+
+173 Friable sandstone, composed of grayish-white quartz, in smooth,
+rounded grains, cemented by a brownish basis. Some carbonaceous matter
+is interspersed through the stone, and it contains small fragments of
+bituminous shale.
+
+174 Calcareous sandstone passing into slate-clay--bluish-gray colour.
+
+175 Black, flinty-slate, with a flat conchoidal cross fracture. Some of
+the pieces appear to be rhomboidal distinct concretions.
+
+176 Dull, flinty-slate, with an even fracture.
+
+178 Thin-slaty blackish-gray sandstone, much indurated, containing
+scales of mica.
+
+179, 180 Bluish-gray sandstone, containing many minute specks of
+carbonaceous matter; also, in patches, grains of chert, and
+flinty-slate, and imbedded pieces of iron-shot clay, which has obscure
+casts of shells. Scales of mica are interspersed through this stone.
+
+181, 182 Sandstone containing specks of bituminous? coal, and casts of
+some vegetable? substance.
+
+183 Gray limestone, much impregnated with quartz, and having an
+imperfect crystalline structure.
+
+[41] Mackenzie notices the precipices of "gray stone," which bound the
+river here, p. 71.
+
+[42] See page 288.
+
+[43] Specimens from Sellwood Bay.
+
+202 Fine-grained dark brownish-gray dolomite, with corallines filled
+with white calc-spar.
+
+203 Lucullite grayish-black, compact, and without lustre.
+
+204 Gray dolomite.
+
+205 A rolled piece, evidently of the same rock with the preceding,
+containing the impression of a _cardium_.
+
+206
+
+[44] Specimens from the Promontory of Cape Parry, which rises into a
+hill, seven hundred feet high. Strata dipping lightly to the northward.
+
+207 Yellowish-gray dolomite, imperfectly crystalline, being similar to
+the limestone of Lake Winipeg.
+
+208 Brownish dolomite impregnated with silica.
+
+209 Thin-slaty, gray limestone. Very common also in Lake Winipeg.
+
+210, 211 Boulders of dolomite.
+
+212
+
+213 Brown dolomite, with drusy cavities and veins, lined by calc-spar.
+
+[45] In the geological notices appended to the narrative of Captain
+Franklin's Journey to the Coppermine, I have termed this rock a dark
+purplish-red felspar rock. On examining it again on this journey, I
+perceived it to be a greenstone, whose surfaces weather of a rusty brown
+colour.
+
+
+Transcriber's Notes:
+
+The original makes extensive use of sidenotes, and several sidenotes
+are often associated with a single paragraph, especially within the
+final chapter. Because of this, inline sidenotes have been used and
+are positioned as close to the relevant passage as was possible during
+proofing.
+
+Old spellings are retained, e.g. musquitoes, felspar, Esquimaux,
+kaiyacks, imbedded, incloses, inclosing, inquiry, inquiries, moveable,
+incrusted, trowsers, bivouack, referrible, teazing. Both vallies and
+valleys are used interchangably and this has not altered. Names with
+suffixes "Mc" or "Mac" written as "M'" throughout text; this convention
+is retained. Only printer's errors have been corrected.
+
+"A.M." and "P.M." are shown without an internal space--spaces have been
+removed where they were present in manuscript. Usage was inconsistent,
+perhaps to better justify text. Internal spaces have also been removed
+from initials such as R.N., F.R.S., K.G., &c., to improve rewrap
+behaviour. Decimal points were locally denoted by commas. This
+convention is replaced by standard decimal point notation throughout.
+Degree, minute and second have been spelled out, replacing symbols in
+the original.
+
+Lengthy quotations were denoted by a leading quotation mark in the first
+column of each line. They are replaced with standard opening and closing
+quotation marks for each quoted passage.
+
+Italic text is surrounded by _underscores_. Greek letters are only used
+in a single paragraph concerning astronomy on page 244 and have been
+written as their English names. Small caps have been rendered as upper
+case. The oe ligature symbol in the original is represented by oe in
+this text.
+
+"Dog-Rib" Indians were sometimes referred to as "Dog-rib".  Usage is now
+"Dog-Rib" throughout.
+
+Specific corrections made to text follow. Note that examples are given
+after a colon and are the corrected text. All other printer's errors
+remain.
+
+  Page    Comment
+  ----------------------------------------------------------------------
+  14,51,79 "water-proof" changed to "waterproof".
+  16      "depot" changed to "depot".
+  17      "Hudsons's Bay Company" corrected to "Hudson's Bay Company".
+          "bat-/teau" corrected to "bateau" to be consistent with rest
+            of text.  Typo was across end of line hyphen.
+  24      "Hudson's Bay-Company" corrected to "Hudson's Bay Company".
+  25      "was dragged by other eight men" corrected to "was dragged by
+            another eight men".
+  26      "Riviere" corrected to "Riviere".
+          "Hudson" corrected to "Hudson's".
+  27      "or" corrected to "on": "live on dried provision".
+  28      "depend" corrected to "depends".
+  29      "chace" corrected to "chase". Whilst both forms are acceptable
+            for the time, both were used in the book.  The change makes
+            everything consistent. See also page 65.
+          "of" inserted: "under the roof of our hospitable friend".
+  30      "Winnipeg" corrected to "Winipeg" to be consistent with rest
+            of manuscript.
+  32,51   "northwest" corrected to "north-west" for consistency.
+  34      "eastermost" corrected to "easternmost".
+  39,53,65,96,202 "day-light" changed to daylight".
+  42      "sandbanks" changed to "sand-banks" for consistency with rest
+            of manuscript.
+  48,51   "rein deer" corrected to "rein-deer" twice on this page to
+          be consistent with rest of manuscript.
+  52,299  "lydianstone" corrected to "lydian-stone".
+  49      "Rocky mountains" capitalised to "Rocky Mountains".
+  52      "occurence" corrected to "occurrence".
+  53      "chissel" changed to "chisel": "ice-chisel".
+          Inserted comma after "ice-chisel" to correct list punctuation.
+  54      "Cannon-shot" changed to "Cannon-Shot" for consistency in
+            place name "Cannon-Shot Reach".
+  56      "where-ever" across end of line changed to "wherever" twice on
+            this page.
+  62      "skreening" amended to "screening": "screening us from the
+            snow".
+  65      "bag-pipes" to "bagpipes".
+          "chace" corrected to "chase".
+  70      "Chepewyan" corrected to "Chipewyan".
+          "invariable" corrected to "invariably": "the needle almost
+            invariably remained stationary".
+  77      "temperature in the shade +8 degrees 5 minutes": odd use of
+            minutes noted. It is not immediately obvious what is
+            intended.
+  80      "dimunition" corrected to "diminution".
+  83      "canvass" corrected to "canvas": "waterproof canvas".
+  88      "aud" corrected to "and": "iron-work, knives, and beads".
+  92      "northeast" changed to "north-east".
+  94      "Francois" changed to "Francois".
+          "westermost" changed to "westernmost".
+  95      "36' N" changed to "36' N.".
+  101     "mall" corrected to "small": "so small a number".
+  109     "mases" to "masses": "the larger masses".
+  111     "Copper-mine" to "Coppermine": "the Coppermine River".
+          "tatoed" to "tattoed": "men being tattoed".
+  112,119,130,132,172,173,190 "oomiacks" changed to "oomiaks".
+  115     "Rocky mountains" capitalised to "Rocky Mountains".
+  117     "liittle" to "little": "our little friend".
+  122     "seperated" corrected to "separated".
+  124     "ancle" amended to "ankle".
+  126     "Dip" made lower-case "dip" since mid-sentence.
+  129     "British chain" changed to "British Chain" for consistency.
+  132     "visiters" corrected to "visitors".
+          "oomiack" corrected to "oomiak".
+  132,148,152,190 "oomiack" corrected to "oomiak".
+  146     "ice chissel" changed to "ice-chisel".
+  147     "and the main, that when" changed to "and the main than when"
+            to correct typos.
+  148     "Humphreys" changed to "Humphrys" to be consistent.
+  156     "Capitalised start of sentence: "be killed? You are active".
+          Added closing quotation marks after "depart instantly".
+  157     "hair skins" changed to "hare skins" since "their dress
+            consisting principally of hare skins" is noted on page 247.
+  160     Degree symbol used instead of minute symbol. Correct form:
+            "latitude 69 deg 34 min & 69 deg 44 min N."
+  163     Comma changed to full-stop since it occurs at end of sentence:
+            "white spruce trees. Our voyage amongst these".
+  166     "Richard's" changed to "Richards'" since the governor was John
+            Baker Richards.
+          "island" changed to "Island": "Richards' Island".
+  167     Comma changed to full-stop since it occurs at end of sentence:
+            "intimidation and extortion. When the interview".
+          "kaiyaks" changed to "kaiyacks".
+  173     "harassing" changed to "harrassing".
+  174     It is unclear whether these Eskimo words were meant to have oe
+            or ae. The printer seems to have used the oe ligature
+            indifferently for ae, as sometimes happened at this period.
+            Cf. sertulariae p. 179 etc. And the only such word in
+            non-italic has ae: Narrakazzae p. 266. At any rate, later
+            writers certainly seem to have read them all as oe.
+          "peechaw-ooloo" has a macron (overscore) diacritical mark on
+            its final letter; this has been omitted.
+  177     "ice-bergs" changed to "icebergs".
+  180     "Wednesday 12th" changed to "Wednesday, 12th" to be consistent
+            with other sidenotes.
+  184     "grounded-ice" amended to "grounded ice".
+  185     "K'Kinley" corrected to "M'Kinley": "Captain George M'Kinley".
+  189     "sine" changed to "side".
+  190     "ecstacy" changed to "ecstasy".
+          "their wide boots" changed to "their wide hoods", cf. pp. 44,
+          110.
+  195     "head-land" changed to "headland".
+  199     "preservance" corrected to "perseverance".
+          "from" changed to "form": "those which form its western".
+  200     "short-voyage" changed to "short voyage".
+          Comma changed to full-stop since it occurs at end of sentence:
+            "south-east direction. We landed a little to the eastward".
+  202     "head-lands" changed to "headlands".
+          "day-light" changed to daylight".
+  204     "closenes" corrected to "closeness".
+  207     "lime-stone" corrected to "limestone".
+  208     "deers-meat" corrected to "deer-meat".
+  211     "semed" corrected to "seemed": "seemed to contain".
+  214     "lime-stone" corrected to "limestone".
+  225     "several of of them" changed to "several of them". Word was
+            repeated across end of line.
+          "dimunition" corrected to "diminution": "suffered some
+            diminution".
+  226     Comma changed to full-stop since it occurs at end of sentence:
+            "on their route to Bear Lake. The ridges of hill".
+  227     "ecstacy" corrected to "ecstasy".
+  230     "68" changed to "66": 3 days ago they were at 67 deg. 10', heading
+            SW; the northernmost point of Great Bear Lake is at about
+            67 deg..
+  232     "Thursday 24th" changed to "Thursday, 24th" to be consistent with
+            other sidenotes.
+          "I I therefore embarked" changed to "I therefore embarked";
+            repeat was across line break.
+  237     "Krusensten" changed to "Krusenstern" since the latter is used
+            in the rest of the text.
+  240     "indvalids" corrected to "invalids".
+  244     "extrordinary" corrected to "extraordinary"
+          "Corona" corrected to "Coronae".
+  245     "+30.5 degrees." changed to "+30.5 degrees,".
+  246     "re-appearance" corrected to "reappearance".
+  257     "house changed to "House".
+  261     "depots" changed to "depots".
+  268     "sulphat" corrected to "sulphate": "crystals of sulphate of
+            iron".
+  271     "moses" corrected to "mosses": "is covered a foot deep, or
+            more, by mosses".
+  274     "off" corrected to "of": "at the bottom of the cliff".
+  278     "sandsone" corrected to "sandstone".
+  279     "sand-stones" corrected to "sandstones".
+          "oscasionally" corrected to "occasionally".
+  280     "clay-stone" to "claystone".
+  283     "long;" changed to "long.;".
+  284     "formation" corrected to "formations": "similar formations
+            which occupy".
+  285     "limetone" corrected to "limestone".
+  290     "swells gently into a hill several feet high"; should this be
+            "several hundred feet high"?
+          "Horn Mountain" changed to "Horn Mountains".
+          "sienities" changed to "sienites".
+  293     "in some, reaches" changed to "in some reaches,".
+          Footnote 36: "very-fine grained" changed to "very fine-grained.
+  295     "specifind" corrected to "specified".
+          "sphoeroidalis" corrected to "sphaeroidalis".
+          "corbrash" corrected to "cornbrash".
+  296     Removed spurious opening quotation mark before "ramparts",
+            thereby balancing quotation marks.
+  297     "terrebratula" corrected to "terebratula".
+  303     "coasted" changed to "coated".
+  308     "othoceratites" changed to "orthoceratites".
+  318     "Sowbery" changed to "Sowerby".
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Narrative of a Second Expedition to
+the Shores of the Polar Sea, by John Franklin and John Richardson
+
+*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK NARRATIVE: THE POLAR SEA ***
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