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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Cruise of the Revenue-Steamer Corwin in
+Alaska and the N.W. Arctic Ocean in 1881: Botatical Notes, by John Muir
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Cruise of the Revenue-Steamer Corwin in Alaska and the N.W. Arctic Ocean in 1881: Botatical Notes
+       Notes and Memoranda: Medical and Anthropological; Botanical;
+       Ornithological.
+
+Author: John Muir
+
+Release Date: August 15, 2010 [EBook #33443]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CRUISE OF THE ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Colin Bell, Joseph Cooper and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net
+
+
+
+
+
+
+THE EXECUTIVE DOCUMENTS OF THE HOUSE OF REPRESENTATIVES
+
+FOR THE SECOND SESSION OF THE FORTY-SEVENTH CONGRESS.
+
+1882-'83.
+
+IN TWENTY-FIVE VOLUMES.
+
+VOLUME 23.
+
+WASHINGTON:
+GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE.
+_1883._
+
+
+
+
+47TH CONGRESS, }   HOUSE OF REPRESENTATIVES.  { Ex. Doc.
+_2d Session_.  }                              { No. 105.
+
+
+CRUISE OF THE REVENUE-STEAMER CORWIN IN ALASKA
+AND THE N. W. ARCTIC OCEAN IN 1881.
+
+
+NOTES AND MEMORANDA: MEDICAL AND ANTHROPOLOGICAL;
+BOTANICAL; ORNITHOLOGICAL.
+
+
+WASHINGTON:
+GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE.
+1883.
+
+
+
+
+    LETTER FROM THE SECRETARY OF THE TREASURY, IN RESPONSE TO
+
+    _A resolution of the House of Representatives transmitting the
+    observations and notes made during the cruise of the revenue-cutter
+    Corwin in 1881._
+
+
+    MARCH 3, 1883.--Referred to the Committee on Commerce and
+    ordered to be printed.
+
+
+TREASURY DEPARTMENT, _March_ 3, 1883.
+
+SIR: I have the honor to acknowledge the receipt of resolution of the
+House, dated March 3, 1883, requesting that the Secretary of the
+Treasury furnish, as soon as convenient, to the Speaker of the House
+copies of documents in the possession of the Treasury Department
+containing observations on glaciation, birds, natural history, and the
+medical notes made upon cruises of revenue-cutters in the year 1881.
+
+In reply, I transmit herewith the observations on glaciation in the
+Arctic Ocean and the Alaska region, made by Mr. John Muir; notes upon
+the birds and natural history of Bering Sea and the northwestern
+region, by Mr. E. W. Nelson; and medical notes and anthropological
+notes relating to the natives of Alaska and the northwestern Arctic
+region, made by Dr. Irving C. Rosse.
+
+All these notes were made upon the cruise of the revenue-cutter Corwin
+in 1881.
+
+Very respectfully,
+
+    H. F. FRENCH,
+          _Acting Secretary_.
+
+    Hon. J. W. KEIFER,
+          _Speaker of the House of Representatives_.
+
+
+
+
+BOTANICAL NOTES ON ALASKA.
+
+
+BY JOHN MUIR.
+
+
+
+
+BOTANICAL NOTES.
+
+By John Muir.
+
+
+INTRODUCTORY.
+
+The plants named in the following notes were collected at many
+localities on the coasts of Alaska and Siberia, and on Saint Lawrence,
+Wrangel, and Herald Islands, between about latitude 54° and 71°,
+longitude 161° and 178°, in the course of short excursions, some of
+them less than an hour in length.
+
+Inasmuch as the flora of the arctic and subarctic regions is nearly the
+same everywhere, the discovery of many species new to science was not
+to be expected. The collection, however, will no doubt be valuable for
+comparison with the plants of other regions.
+
+In general the physiognomy of the vegetation of the polar regions
+resembles that of the alpine valleys of the temperate zones; so much so
+that the botanist on the coast of Arctic Siberia or America might
+readily fancy himself on the Sierra Nevada at a height of 10,000 to
+12,000 feet above the sea.
+
+There is no line of perpetual snow on any portion of the arctic regions
+known to explorers. The snow disappears every summer not only from the
+low sandy shores and boggy tundras but also from the tops of the
+mountains and all the upper slopes and valleys with the exception of
+small patches of drifts and avalanche-heaps hardly noticeable in
+general views. But though nowhere excessively deep or permanent, the
+snow-mantle is universal during winter, and the plants are solidly
+frozen and buried for nearly three-fourths of the year. In this
+condition they enjoy a sleep and rest about as profound as death, from
+which they awake in the months of June and July in vigorous health, and
+speedily reach a far higher development of leaf and flower and fruit
+than is generally supposed. On the drier banks and hills about Kotzebue
+Sound, Cape Thompson, and Cape Lisbourne many species show but little
+climatic repression, and during the long summer days grow tall enough
+to wave in the wind, and unfold flowers in as rich profusion and as
+highly colored as may be found in regions lying a thousand miles
+farther south.
+
+
+_OUNALASKA._
+
+To the botanist approaching any portion of the Aleutian chain of
+islands from the southward during the winter or spring months, the view
+is severely desolate and forbidding. The snow comes down to the water's
+edge in solid white, interrupted only by dark outstanding bluffs with
+faces too steep for snow to lie on, and by the backs of rounded rocks
+and long rugged reefs beaten and overswept by heavy breakers rolling in
+from the Pacific, while throughout nearly every month of the year the
+higher mountains are wrapped in gloomy dripping storm-clouds.
+
+Nevertheless vegetation here is remarkably close and luxuriant, and
+crowded with showy bloom, covering almost every foot of the ground up
+to a height of about a thousand feet above the sea--the harsh trachytic
+rocks, and even the cindery bases of the craters, as well as the
+moraines and rough soil beds outspread on the low portions of the short
+narrow valleys.
+
+On the 20th of May we found the showy _Geum glaciale_ already in
+flower, also an arctostaphylos and draba, on a slope facing the south,
+near the harbor of Ounalaska. The willows, too, were then beginning to
+put forth their catkins, while a multitude of green points were
+springing up in sheltered spots wherever the snow had vanished. At a
+height of 400 and 500 feet, however, winter was still unbroken, with
+scarce a memory of the rich bloom of summer.
+
+During a few short excursions along the shores of Ounalaska Harbor and
+on two of the adjacent mountains, towards the end of May and beginning
+of October we saw about fifty species of flowering plants--empetrum,
+vaccinium, bryanthus, pyrola, arctostaphylos, ledum, cassiope, lupinus,
+zeranium, epilobium, silene, draba, and saxifraga being the most
+telling and characteristic of the genera represented. _Empetrum
+nigrum_, a bryanthus, and three species of vaccinium make a grand
+display when in flower and show their massed colors at a considerable
+distance.
+
+Almost the entire surface of the valleys and hills and lower slopes of
+the mountains is covered with a dense spongy plush of lichens and
+mosses similar to that which cover the tundras of the Arctic regions,
+making a rich green mantle on which the showy flowering plants are
+strikingly relieved, though these grow far more luxuriantly on the
+banks of the streams where the drainage is less interrupted. Here also
+the ferns, of which I saw three species, are taller and more abundant,
+some of them arching their broad delicate fronds over one's shoulders,
+while in similar situations the tallest of the five grasses that were
+seen reaches a height of nearly six feet, and forms a growth close
+enough for the farmer's scythe.
+
+Not a single tree has yet been seen on any of the islands of the chain
+west of Kodiak, excepting a few spruces brought from Sitka and planted
+at Ounalaska by the Russians about fifty years ago. They are still
+alive in a dwarfed condition, having made scarce any appreciable growth
+since they were planted. These facts are the more remarkable, since in
+Southeastern Alaska lying both to the north and south of here, and on
+the many islands of the Alexander Archipelago, as well as on the
+mainland, forests of beautiful conifers flourish exuberantly and attain
+noble dimensions, while the climatic conditions generally do not appear
+to differ greatly from those that obtain on these treeless islands.
+
+Wherever cattle have been introduced they have prospered and grown fat
+on the abundance of rich nutritious pasturage to be found almost
+everywhere in the deep withdrawing valleys and on the green slopes of
+the hills and mountains, but the wetness of the summer months will
+always prevent the making of hay in any considerable quantities.
+
+The agricultural possibilities of these islands seem also to be very
+limited. The hardier of the cereals--rye, barley, and oats--make a good
+vigorous growth, and head out, but seldom or never mature, on account
+of insufficient sunshine and overabundance of moisture in the form of
+long-continued drizzling fogs and rains. Green crops, however, as
+potatoes, turnips, cabbages, beets, and most other common garden
+vegetables, thrive wherever the ground is thoroughly drained and has a
+southerly exposure.
+
+
+_SAINT LAWRENCE ISLAND._
+
+Saint Lawrence Island, as far as our observations extended, is mostly a
+dreary mass of granite and lava of various forms and colors, roughened
+with volcanic cones, covered with snow, and rigidly bound in ocean ice
+for half the year.
+
+Inasmuch as it lies broadsidewise to the direction pursued by the great
+ice-sheet that recently filled Bering Sea, and its rocks offered
+unequal resistance to the denuding action of the ice, the island is
+traversed by numerous ridges and low gap-like valleys all trending in
+the same general direction, some of the lowest of these transverse
+valleys having been degraded nearly to the level of the sea, showing
+that had the glaciation to which the island has been subjected been
+slightly greater we should have found several islands here instead of
+one.
+
+At the time of our first visit, May 28, winter still had full
+possession, but eleven days later we found the dwarf willows, drabas,
+crizerons, saxifrages pushing up their buds and leaves, on spots bare
+of snow, with wonderful rapidity. This was the beginning of spring at
+the northwest end of the island. On July 4 the flora seemed to have
+reached its highest development. The bottoms of the glacial valleys
+were in many places covered with tall grasses and carices evenly
+planted and forming meadows of considerable size, while the drier
+portions and the sloping grounds about them were enlivened with
+gay highly-colored flowers from an inch to nearly two feet in
+height--_Aconitum Napellus_, L. var. _delphinifolium_ ser. _Polemonium
+coeruleum_, L. _Papaver nudicaule_, _Draba alpina_, and _Silene
+acaulis_ in large closely flowered tufts, Andromeda, Ledum Linnæa,
+Cassiope, and several species of Vaccinium and Saxifraga.
+
+
+_SAINT MICHAEL'S._
+
+The region about Saint Michael's is a magnificent tundra, crowded with
+Arctic lichens and mosses, which here develop under most favorable
+conditions. In the spongy plush formed by the lower plants, in which
+one sinks almost knee-deep at every step, there is a sparse growth of
+grasses, carices, and rushes, tall enough to wave in the wind, while
+empetrum, the dwarf birch, and the various heathworts flourish here in
+all their beauty of bright leaves and flowers. The moss mantle for the
+most part rests on a stratum of ice that never melts to any great
+extent, and the ice on a bed rock of black vesicular lava. Ridges of
+the lava rise here and there above the general level in rough masses,
+affording ground for plants that like a drier soil. Numerous hollows
+and watercourses also occur on the general tundra, whose well-drained
+banks are decked with gay flowers in lavish abundance, and meadow
+patches of grasses shoulder high, suggestive of regions much farther
+south.
+
+The following plants and a few doubtful species not yet determined were
+collected here:
+
+    Linnæa borealis, Gronov.
+
+    Cassiope tetragone, Desv.
+
+    Andromeda polifolia, L.
+
+    Loiseleuria procumbeus, Desv.
+
+    Vaccinium Vitis Idæa, L.
+
+    Arctostaphylos alpina, Spring.
+
+    Ledum palustre, L.
+
+    Nardosmia frigida, Hook.
+
+    Saussurea alpina, Dl.
+
+    Senecio frigidus, Less.
+            palustris, Hook.
+
+    Arnica angustifolia, Vahl.
+
+    Artemisia arctica, Bess.
+
+    Matricaria inodora, L.
+
+    Rubus chamoe morus, L.
+          arcticus, L.
+
+    Potentilla nivea, L.
+
+    Dryas octopetala, L.
+
+    Draba alpina, L.
+          incana, L.
+
+    Entrema arenicola, Hook?
+
+    Pedicularis sudetica, Willd.
+                euphrasioides, Steph.
+
+    Langsdorffii, Fisch, var. lanata, Gray.
+
+    Diapensia Lapponica, L.
+
+    Polemoium coeruleum, L.
+
+    Primula borealis, Daly.
+
+    Oxytropis podocarpa, Gray.
+
+    Astragalus alpinus, L.
+               frigidus, Gray, var. littoralis.
+
+    Lathyrus maritimus, Bigelow.
+
+    Arenaria lateriflora, L.
+
+    Stellaria longipes, Goldie.
+
+    Silene acaulis, L.
+
+    Saxifraga nivalis, L.
+              hieracifolia, W. and K.
+
+    Anemone narcissiflora, L.
+            parviflora, Michx.
+
+    Caltha palustris, L., var. asarifolia, Rothr.
+
+    Valeriana capitata, Willd.
+
+    Lloydia serotina, Reichmb.
+
+    Tofieldia coccinea, Richards.
+
+    Armeria vulgaris, Willd.
+
+    Corydalis pauciflora.
+
+    Pinguicula Villosa, L.
+
+    Mertensia paniculata, Desv.
+
+    Polygonum alpinum, All.
+
+    Epilobium latifolium, L.
+
+    Betula nana, L.
+
+    Alnus viridis, Dl.
+
+    Eriophorum capitatum.
+
+    Carex vulgaris, Willd, var. alpina.
+
+    Aspidium fragrans, Swartz.
+
+    Woodsia Iloensis, Bv.
+
+
+_GOLOVIN BAY._
+
+The tundra flora on the west side of Golovin Bay is remarkably close
+and luxuriant, covering almost every foot of the ground, the hills as
+well as the valleys, while the sandy beach and a bank of coarsely
+stratified moraine material a few yards back from the beach were
+blooming like a garden with _Lathyrus maritimus_, _Iris sibirica_,
+_Polemonium coeruleum_, &c., diversified with clumps and patches of
+_Elymus arenarius_, _Alnus viridis_, and _Abies alba_.
+
+This is one of the few points on the east side of Bering Sea where
+trees closely approach the shore. The white spruce occurs here in small
+groves or thickets of well developed erect trees 15 or 20 feet high,
+near the level of the sea, at a distance of about 6 or 8 miles from the
+mouth of the bay, and gradually become irregular and dwarfed as they
+approach the shore. Here a number of dead and dying specimens were
+observed, indicating that conditions of soil, climate, and relations to
+other plants were becoming more unfavorable, and causing the tree-line
+to recede from the coast.
+
+The following collection was made here July 10:
+
+    Pinguicula villosa, L.
+
+    Vaccinium vitis Idæa, L.
+
+    Spiræa betulæfolia, Pallas.
+
+    Rubus arcticus, L.
+
+    Epilobium latifolium, L.
+
+    Polemonium coevuleum, L.
+
+    Trientalis europæa, L. var. arctica, Ledeb.
+
+    Entrema arenicola, Hook.
+
+    Iris sibirica, L.
+
+    Lloydia serotina, Reichemb.
+
+    Chrysanthemum arcticum, L.
+
+    Artemisia Tilesii, Ledeb.
+
+    Arenaria peploides, L.
+
+    Gentiana glanca, Pallas.
+
+    Elymus arenarius, L.
+
+    Poa trivialis, L.
+
+    Carex vesicaria, L. var. alpigma, Fries.
+
+    Aspidium spinulosum, Sw.
+
+
+_KOTZEBUE SOUND._
+
+The flora of the region about the head of Kotzebue Sound is hardly less
+luxuriant and rich in species than that of other points visited by the
+Corwin lying several degrees farther south. Fine nutritious grasses
+suitable for the fattening of cattle and from 2 to 6 feet high are not
+of rare occurrence on meadows of considerable extent and along
+streambanks wherever the stagnant waters of the tundra have been
+drained off, while in similar localities the most showy of the Arctic
+plants bloom in all their freshness and beauty, manifesting no sign of
+frost, or unfavorable conditions of any kind whatever.
+
+A striking result of the airing and draining of the boggy tundra soil
+is shown on the ice-bluffs around Escholtze Bay, where it has been
+undermined by the melting of the ice on which it rests. In falling down
+the face of the ice-wall it is well shaken and rolled before it again
+comes to rest on terraced or gently sloping portions of the wall. The
+original vegetation of the tundra is thus destroyed, and tall grasses
+spring up on the fresh mellow ground as it accumulates from time to
+time, growing lush and rank, though in many places that we noted these
+new soil-beds are not more than a foot in depth, and lie on the solid
+ice.
+
+At the time of our last visit to this interesting region, about the
+middle of September, the weather was still fine, suggesting the Indian
+Summer of the Western States. The tundra glowed in the mellow sunshine
+with the colors of the ripe foliage of vaccinium, empetrum,
+arctostaphylos, and dwarf birch; red, purple, and yellow, in pure
+bright tones, while the berries, hardly less beautiful, were scattered
+everywhere as if they had been sown broadcast with a lavish hand, the
+whole blending harmoniously with the neutral tints of the furred bed of
+lichens and mosses on which the bright leaves and berries were painted.
+
+On several points about the sound the white spruce occurs in small
+compact groves within a few miles of the shore; and pyrola, which
+belongs to wooded regions, is abundant where no trees are now in sight,
+tending to show that areas of considerable extent, now treeless, were
+once forested.
+
+The plants collected are:
+
+    Pyrola rotundifolia, L. var. pumila, Hook.
+
+    Arctostaphylos alpina, Spring.
+
+    Cassiope tetragone, Desr.
+
+    Ledum palustre.
+
+    Vaccinium Vitis Idæa, L.
+
+    Uliginosum, L. var. mucronata, Hender.
+
+    Empetrum nigrum.
+
+    Potentilla, anserina, L. var.
+                biflora, Willd.
+                fruticosa.
+
+    Stellaria longipes, Goldie.
+
+    Cerastium alpinum, L. var. Behringianum. Regel.
+
+    Mertensia maritima, Derr.
+
+    Papaver nudicale, L.
+
+    Saxifraga tricuspidata, Retg.
+
+    Trientalis europæa, L. var. arctica, Ledeb.
+
+    Lupinus arcticus, Watson.
+
+    Hedysarum boreale, Nutt.
+
+    Galium boreale, L.
+
+    Armeria vulgaris, Willd, var. Arctica, Cham.
+
+    Allium schænoprasum, L.
+
+    Polygonum Viviparum, L.
+
+    Castilleia pallida, Kunth.
+
+    Pedicularis sudetica, Willd.
+                verticillata, L.
+
+    Senecio palustris, Hook.
+
+    Salix polaris, Wahl.
+
+    Luzula hyperborea, R. Br.
+
+
+_CAPE THOMPSON._
+
+The Cape Thompson flora is richer in species and individuals than that
+of any other point on the Arctic shores we have seen, owing no doubt
+mainly to the better drainage of the ground through the fissured
+frost-cracked limestone, which hereabouts is the principal rock.
+
+Where the hill-slopes are steepest the rock frequently occurs in loose
+angular masses and is entirely bare of soil. But between these barren
+slopes there are valleys where the showiest of the Arctic plants bloom
+in rich-profusion and variety, forming brilliant masses of color--purple,
+yellow, and blue--where certain species form beds of considerable size,
+almost to the exclusion of others.
+
+The following list was obtained here July 19:
+
+    Phlox Sibirica, L.
+
+    Polemonium humile. Willd.
+               coeruleum, L.
+
+    Myosotis sylvatica, var. alpestris.
+
+    Eritrichium nanum, var. arctioides, Hedu.
+
+    Dodecatheon media, var. frigidum, Gray.
+
+    Androsace chamoejasme, Willd.
+
+    Anemone narcissiflora, L.
+            multifida, Poir.
+            parviflora, Michx.
+            parviflora, Michx. var.
+
+    Ranunculus affinis, R. Br.
+
+    Caltha aserifolia, Dl.
+
+    Geum glaciale, Fisch.
+
+    Dryas octopetala, L.
+
+    Polygonum Bistorta, L.
+
+    Rumex Crispus, L.
+
+    Boykinia Richardsonii, Gray.
+
+    Saxifraga tricuspidata, Retg.
+              cernua, L.
+              flagellaris, Willd.
+              davarica, Willd.
+              punctata, L.
+              nivalis, L.
+
+    Nardosmia carymbosa, Hook?
+
+    Erigeron Muirii, Gray, n. sp.
+
+    Taraxacum palustre, Dl.
+
+    Senicio frigidus, Less.
+
+    Artemisia glomerata, Ledt.
+
+    Potentilla biflora, Willd.
+               nivea, L.
+
+    Draba stellata, Jacq. var. nivalis, Regel.
+          incana, L.
+
+    Cardamine pratensis, L.?
+
+    Cheiranthus pygmæus, Adans.
+
+    Parrya nudicaulis, Regel. var. aspera, Regel.
+
+    Hedysarum borealis, Nutt.
+
+    Oxytropis podocarpa, Gray.
+
+    Cerastium alpinum, L. var. Behringianum, Regel.
+
+    Silene acaulis, L.
+
+    Arenaria verna, L. var. rubella, Hook, f.
+             arctica, Ster.
+
+    Stellaria longipes, Goldie.
+
+    Artemisia tomentosa.
+
+    Pedicularis capitata, Adans.
+
+    Papaver nudicaule, L.
+
+    Epilobium latifolium, L.
+
+    Cassiope tetragone, Desr.
+
+    Vaccinium uliginosum, L. var. Mucronata, Hender.
+              vitis idæa, L.
+
+    Salix polaris, Wahl, and two other species undetermined.
+
+    Festuca Sativa?
+
+    Glyceria, ----
+
+    Trisetum subspicatum, Beaur, var. Molle, Gray.
+
+    Carex variflora, Wahl.
+          vulgaris, Fries, var. Alpina, (C. rigida, Good).
+
+    Cystoperis fragilis, Bernt.
+
+
+_CAPE PRINCE OF WALES._
+
+At Cape Prince of Wales we obtained:
+
+    Loiseleuria procumbens, Desr.
+
+    Andromeda polifolia, L. forma arctica.
+
+    Vaccinium Vitis Idæa, L.
+
+    Androsace chamoejasme, Willd.
+
+    Tofieldia coccinæa, Richards.
+
+    Armeria arctica, Ster.
+
+    Taraxacum palustre, Dl.
+
+
+_TWENTY MILES EAST OF CAPE LISBOURNE._
+
+    Lychnis apetala, L.
+
+    Androsace chamoejasme, Willd.
+
+    Geum glaciate, Fisch.
+
+    Potentilla nivea, L.
+               biflora, Willd.
+
+    Phlox Sibirica, L.
+
+    Primula borealis, Daly.
+
+    Anemone narcissiflora, L. var.
+
+    Oxytropis campestris, Dl.
+
+    Erigeron uniflorus, L.
+
+    Artemisia glomerata, Ledb.
+
+    Saxifraga escholtzii, Sternb.
+              flagellaris, Willd.
+
+    Chrysosplenium alternifolium, L.
+
+    Draba hirta, L.
+
+
+_CAPE WANKEREM, SIBERIA._
+
+Near Cape Wankerem, August 7 and 8, we collected:
+
+    Claytonia Virginica, L.?
+
+    Ranunculus pygmæus, Wahl.
+
+    Pedicularis Langsdorffii, Fisch.
+
+    Chrysosplenium alternifolium, L.
+
+    Saxifraga cernua, L.
+              stellaris, L. var. cornosa.
+              rivularis, L. var. hyperborea, Hook.
+
+    Polemonium coeruleum, L.
+
+    Lychnis apetala, L.
+
+    Nardosmia frigida, Hook.
+
+    Chrysanthemum arcticum, L.
+
+    Senecio frigidus, Less.
+
+    Artemisia vulgaris, var. Telesii, Ledeb.
+
+    Elymus arenarius, L.
+
+    Alopocurus alpinus, Smith.
+
+    Poa arctica, R. Br.
+
+    Calamagrostis deschampsioides, Trin.?
+
+    Luzula hyperborea, R. Br.
+           spicato Desv.
+
+
+_PLOVER BAY, SIBERIA._
+
+The mountains bounding the glacial fiord called Plover Bay, though
+beautiful in their combinations of curves and peaks as they are seen
+touching each other delicately and rising in bold, picturesque groups,
+are nevertheless severely desolate looking from the absence of trees
+and large shrubs, and indeed of vegetation of any kind dense enough to
+give color in telling quantities, or to soften the harsh rockiness of
+the steepest portions of the walls. Even the valleys opening back from
+the water here and there on either side are mostly bare as seen at a
+distance of a mile or two, and show only a faint tinge of green,
+derived from dwarf willows, heathworts, and sedges chiefly.
+
+The most interesting of the plants found here are _Rhododendron
+Kamtschaticum_, Pall., and the handsome blue-flowered _Saxifraga
+oppositifolia_, L., both of which are abundant.
+
+The following were collected July 12 and August 26:
+
+    Gentiana glauca, Pall.
+
+    Geum glaciale, Fisch.
+
+    Dryas octopetala, L.
+
+    Aconitum Napellus, L. var. delphinifolium, Ser.
+
+    Saxifraga oppositifolia, L.
+              punctata, L.
+              coespitosa, L.
+
+    Diapensia Lapponica, L.
+
+    Rhododendron Kamtschaticum, Pall.
+
+    Cassiope tetragona, Desv.
+
+    Anemone narcissiflora, L.
+
+    Arenaria macrocarpa, Pursh.
+
+    Draba alpina, L.
+
+    Parrya Ermanni, Ledb.
+
+    Oxytropis, podocarpa, Gray.
+
+
+_HERALD ISLAND._
+
+On Herald Island the common polar cryptogamous vegetation is well
+represented and developed. So also are the flowering plants, almost the
+entire surface of the island, with the exception of the sheer crumbling
+bluffs along the shores, being quite tellingly dotted and tufted with
+characteristic species. The following list was obtained:
+
+    Saxifraga punctata, L.?
+              serpyllifolia, Pursh.
+              sileniflora, Sternb.
+              bronchialis, L.
+              stellaris, L. var. comosa, Poir.
+              rivularis, L. var. hyperborea, Hook.
+              hieracifolia, Waldst & Kit.
+
+    Papaver nuedicaule, L.
+
+    Draba alpina, L.
+
+    Gymnandra Stelleri, Cham. & Schlecht.
+
+    Stellaria longipes, Goldie, var. Edwardsii T. & G.
+
+    Senecio frigidus, Less.
+
+    Potentilla frigida, Vill.?
+
+    Salax polaris, Wahl.
+
+    Alopecurus alpinus, Smith.
+
+    Luzula hyperborea, R. Br.
+
+
+_WRANGEL ISLAND._
+
+Our stay on the one point of Wrangel Island that we touched was far too
+short to admit of making anything like as full a collection of the
+plants of so interesting a region as was desirable. We found the rock
+formation where we landed and for some distance along the coast to the
+eastward and westward to be a close-grained clay slate, cleaving freely
+into thin flakes, with here and there a few compact metamorphic masses
+that rise above the general surface. Where it is exposed along the
+shore bluffs and kept bare of vegetation and soil by the action of the
+ocean, ice, and heavy snow-drifts the rock presents a surface about as
+black as coal, without even a moss or lichen to enliven its sombre
+gloom. But when this dreary barrier is passed the surface features of
+the country in general are found to be finely molded and collocated,
+smooth valleys, wide as compared with their depth, trending back from
+the shore to a range of mountains that appear blue in the distance, and
+round-topped hills, with their side curves finely drawn, touching and
+blending in beautiful groups, while scarce a single rock-pile is seen
+or sheer-walled bluff to break the general smoothness.
+
+The soil has evidently been derived mostly from the underlying slates,
+though a few fragmentary wasting moraines were observed containing
+traveled boulders of quartz and granite which doubtless were brought
+from the mountains of the interior by glaciers that have recently
+vanished--so recently that the outlines and sculptured hollows and
+grooves of the mountains have not as yet suffered sufficient post
+glacial denudation to mar appreciably their glacial characters.
+
+The banks of the river at the mouth of which we landed presented a
+striking contrast as to vegetation to that of any other stream we had
+seen in the Arctic regions. The tundra vegetation was not wholly
+absent, but the mosses and lichens of which it is elsewhere composed
+are about as feebly developed as possible, and instead of forming a
+continuous covering they occur in small separate tufts, leaving the
+ground between them raw and bare as that of a newly-ploughed field. The
+phanerogamous plants, both on the lowest grounds and the slopes and
+hilltops as far as seen, were in the same severely repressed condition
+and as sparsely planted in tufts an inch or two in diameter, with about
+from one to three feet of naked soil between them. Some portions of the
+coast, however, farther south presented a greenish hue as seen from the
+ship at a distance of eight or ten miles, owing no doubt to vegetation
+growing under less unfavorable conditions.
+
+From an area of about half a square mile the following plants were
+collected:
+
+    Saxifraga flegellaris, Willd.
+              stellaris, L. var. cornosa, Poir.
+              sileneflora, Sternb.
+              hieracifolia, Waldst. & Kit.
+              rivularis, L. var. hyperborea, Hook.
+              bronchialis, L.
+              serpyllifolia, Pursh.
+
+    Anemone parviflora, Michx.
+
+    Papaver nudicaule, L.
+
+    Draba alpina, L.
+
+    Cochleria officinalis, L.
+
+    Artemisia borealis, Willd.
+
+    Nardosmia frigida, Hook.
+
+    Saussurea monticola, Richards.
+
+    Senecio frigidus, Less.
+
+    Potentilla nivea, L.
+               frigida, Vill.?
+
+    Armeria macrocarpa, Pursh.
+            vulgaris, Willd.
+
+    Stellaria longipes, Goldie, var. Edwardsii T. & G.
+
+    Cerastium alpinum, L.
+
+    Gymnandra Stelleri, Chain & Schlecht.
+
+    Salix polaris, Wahl.
+
+    Luzulu hyperborea, R. Br.
+
+    Poa arctica, R. Br.
+
+    Aira cæspitosa, L. var. Arctica.
+
+    Alopecurus alpinus, Smith.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Cruise of the Revenue-Steamer Corwin
+in Alaska and the N.W. Arctic Ocean in 1881: Botatical Notes, by John Muir
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