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| author | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-14 19:59:24 -0700 |
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| committer | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-14 19:59:24 -0700 |
| commit | 7cbe9d93c5e309c36e9562e00c9615b7352af120 (patch) | |
| tree | ffe9bcdbbaf6cbcf96a0feccac39245d96fceac8 /33359-h | |
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diff --git a/33359-h/33359-h.htm b/33359-h/33359-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..52143fd --- /dev/null +++ b/33359-h/33359-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,11366 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.1//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml11/DTD/xhtml11.dtd"> +<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" xml:lang="en"> + <head> + <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=iso-8859-1" /> + <meta http-equiv="Content-Style-Type" content="text/css" /> + <title> + The Project Gutenberg eBook of The Unveiling of Lhasa, by Edmund Candler. + </title> + <style type="text/css"> + +body { margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; } +h1,h2,h3,h4,h5,h6 { text-align: center; clear: both;} +h1 span, h2 span { display: block; padding-bottom: 0.5em; } +#author { font-size: 80%; } +#by { font-size: 60%; padding-top: 2em; padding-bottom: 2em; } +div.chapter { page-break-before: always; padding-top: 2em; } +p { margin-top: .75em; text-align: justify; margin-bottom: .75em; } +p.hr15t { text-align: center; margin: auto; width: 16em; + border-top: solid black 1px; } +p.imgcap { font-size:90%; margin-left: 15%; margin-right: 15%; + margin-top: .25em; text-align: left; margin-bottom: .25em; + padding-left: 2em; text-indent: -2em; } +hr { width: 33%; margin-top: 2em; margin-bottom: 2em; margin-left: auto; + margin-right: auto; clear: both;} +table { margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;} +table.margleft { margin: 0cm 0cm 0cm 0cm; } +td.chap { text-align: center; vertical-align: top;} +td.chap2 { text-align: center; vertical-align: top; font-size: small;} +td.desc { text-align: left; vertical-align: top; padding-left: 2em; + text-indent: -2em;} +td.pgno { text-align: right; vertical-align: bottom; padding-left: 1em;} +td.fp { text-align: center; vertical-align: bottom;} + +.notebox {margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; margin-top: 5%; + margin-bottom: 5%; padding: 1em; border: solid black 1px;} +ins.corr { text-decoration: none; border-bottom: thin dotted;} +a img { border: solid white 2px; } +img:hover { border: solid blue 2px; } +hr.tb {width: 45%;} +hr.full {width: 95%;} + +.pagenum { position: absolute; left: 92%; font-size: smaller; + font-style: normal; text-align: right; text-indent: 0em;} +.ind1 { text-align: left; margin-left: 1em; text-indent: 1em;} +p.right { text-align: right;} +.r1 { text-align: right; padding-right: 6em; } +.r2 { text-align: right; padding-right: 3em; } +.center {text-align: center;} +.smcap {font-variant: small-caps;} +.caption {font-size: 90%; font-variant: small-caps;} +.figcenter { margin: auto; text-align: center; padding-bottom:1em;} +.footnotes {border: dashed 1px;} +.footnote {margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; font-size: 0.9em;} +.footnote .label {position: absolute; right: 84%; text-align: right;} +.fnanchor { vertical-align: super; font-size: .8em; text-decoration: none; } +.poem { margin-left:10%; margin-right:10%; text-align: left;} +.poem br {display: none;} +.poem .stanza {margin: 1em 0em 1em 0em;} +.poem span.i0 { display: block; margin-left: 0em; + padding-left: 3em; text-indent: -3em; } +.poem span.i2 { display: block; margin-left: 2em; + padding-left: 3em; text-indent: -3em; } + + </style> + </head> +<body> + + +<pre> + +The Project Gutenberg EBook of The Unveiling of Lhasa, by Edmund Candler + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: The Unveiling of Lhasa + +Author: Edmund Candler + +Release Date: August 6, 2010 [EBook #33359] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE UNVEILING OF LHASA *** + + + + +Produced by Steven Gibbs, Asad Razzaki and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net + + + + + + +</pre> + + +<div class="notebox"> +<p>Transcriber's Notes:</p> + +<p>Variations in spelling and hyphenation have been retained as +in the original.</p> + +<p>A few typographical errors have been corrected. They are +shown in the text with <ins class="corr" title= +"like this">mouse-hover popups</ins>. Position your mouse over +the word to see the correction.</p> + +<p>A complete list of changes <a href="#TN">follows</a> the +text.</p> +</div> +<hr class="full" /> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<a id="frontis"></a><a href="images/frontis.jpg"> +<img src="images/frontiss.jpg" alt="Frontispiece." title="" /></a> +<span class="caption"><br />A Cold Day in Tibet.</span> +</div> +<hr /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_iii"> </a></span></p> + +<h1><span id="title">THE UNVEILING +OF LHASA</span> + +<span id="by">BY</span> + +<span id="author">EDMUND CANDLER</span></h1> + +<p class="center"><span class="smcap">Author of 'A Vagabond in Asia'</span></p> + +<p class="center"><i>WITH ILLUSTRATIONS AND MAP</i></p> + +<p class="center">LONDON<br /> +EDWARD ARNOLD<br /> +Publisher to H.M. India Office<br /> +41 & 43 MADDOX STREET, BOND STREET, W.<br /> +1905<br /> +[<i>All rights reserved</i>]</p> +<hr /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_iv"> </a></span><br /></p> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_v"> </a></span></p> +<p class="center"><small>THESE PAGES,<br /> +WRITTEN MOSTLY IN THE DRY COLD WIND OF TIBET,<br /> +OFTEN WHEN INK WAS FROZEN AND ONE'S HAND TOO NUMBED<br /> +TO FEEL A PEN, ARE DEDICATED TO</small><br /> +<br /> +COLONEL HOGGE, C.B.,<br /> +<br /> +<small>AND</small><br /> +<br /> +THE OFFICERS OF THE 23<span class="smcap">rd</span> SIKH PIONEERS,<br /> +<small>WHOSE GENIAL SOCIETY IS ONE OF THE MOST PLEASANT<br /> +MEMORIES OF A RIGOROUS CAMPAIGN.</small> +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_vi"> </a></span></p> + +<hr /> +<div class="chapter" id="preface"> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_vii">[Pg vii]</a></span></p> +<h2>PREFACE</h2> + +<p>The recent expedition to Lhasa was full of interest, +not only on account of the political issues involved +and the physical difficulties overcome, but owing +to the many dramatic incidents which attended the +Mission's progress. It was my good fortune to +witness nearly all these stirring events, and I have +written the following narrative of what I saw in +the hope that a continuous story of the affair may +interest readers who have hitherto been able to +form an idea of it only from the telegrams in the +daily Press. The greater part of the book was +written on the spot, while the impressions of events +and scenery were still fresh. Owing to wounds I +was not present at the bombardment and relief of +Gyantse, but this phase of the operations is dealt +with by Mr. Henry Newman, <i>Reuter's</i> correspondent, +who was an eye-witness. I am especially +indebted to him for his account, which was written +in Lhasa, and occupied many mornings that might +have been devoted to well-earned rest.</p> + +<p>My thanks are also due to the Proprietors of the +<i>Daily Mail</i> for permission to use material of which +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_viii">[Pg viii]</a></span> +they hold the copyright; and I am indebted to the +Editors of the <i>Graphic</i> and <i>Black and White</i> for +allowing me to reproduce certain photographs by +Lieutenant Bailey.</p> + +<p>The illustrations are from sketches by Lieutenant +Rybot, and photographs by Lieutenants Bailey, +Bethell, and Lewis, to whom I owe my cordial +thanks.</p> + +<p class="right"><span class="r2">EDMUND CANDLER.</span></p> +<p class="ind1"><span class="smcap">London</span>,<br /> +<i>January, 1905</i>.</p> +</div> + +<hr /> +<div class="chapter"> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_ix">[Pg ix]</a></span></p> +<h2><a id="contents"></a>CONTENTS</h2> + +<div class="center"> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="Table of Contents."> + +<tr><td class="chap" colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_I">CHAPTER I</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td class="chap2" colspan="2">THE CAUSES OF THE EXPEDITION</td></tr> + +<tr><td class="pgno" colspan="2"><small><small>PAGES</small></small></td></tr> + +<tr><td class="desc">A retrospect—Early visitors to Lhasa—The Jesuits—The +Capuchins—Van der Putte—Thomas Manning—The +Lazarist fathers—Policy of exclusion due to Chinese +influence—The Nepalese invasion—Bogle and Turner—The +Macaulay Mission—Tibetans invade Indian +territory—The expedition of 1888—The convention +with China—British blundering—Our treatment of +the Shata Shapé—The Yatung trade mart—Tibetans +repudiate the convention—Fiction of the Chinese +suzerainty—A policy of drift—Tibetan Mission to the +Czar—Dorjieff and his intrigues—The Dalai Lama and +Russian designs—Our great countermove—Boycotted +at Khamba Jong—The advance sanctioned—Winter +quarters at Tuna</td><td class="pgno">1-21</td></tr> + +<tr><td class="chap" colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_II">CHAPTER II</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td class="chap2" colspan="2">OVER THE FRONTIER</td></tr> + +<tr><td class="desc">From the base to Gnatong—A race to Chumbi—A +perilous night ride—Forest scenery—Gnatong +three years ago and now—Gnatong in action—A +mountain lake—The Jelap la and beyond—Undefended +barriers—Yatung and its Customs House—Chumbi—The +first Press message from Tibet—Arctic +clothing—Scenes in camp—A very uncomfortable +'picnic'</td><td class="pgno">22-34 +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_x">[Pg x]</a></span></td></tr> + +<tr><td class="chap" colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_III">CHAPTER III</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td class="chap2" colspan="2">THE CHUMBI VALLEY</td></tr> + +<tr><td class="desc">The Tomos—A hardy race—Their habits and diversions—Chinamen +in exile—A prosperous valley—But a cheerless +clime—Kasi and his statistics—Trade figures—Tibetan +cruelties—Kasi as general provider—Mountain +scenery—The spirit of the Himalayas—A glorious +flora—The Himalayas and the Alps—The wall of +Gob-sorg—Chinamen and Tomos—A future hill-station—Lingmathang—A +cosy cave—The Mounted Infantry +Corps—Two famous regiments—Sport at Lingmathang—The +Sikkim stag—Gamebirds and wildfowl—Gautsa +camp</td><td class="pgno">35-61</td></tr> + +<tr><td class="chap" colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_IV">CHAPTER IV</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td class="chap2" colspan="2">PHARI JONG</td></tr> + +<tr><td class="desc">Gautsa to Phari Jong—A wonderful old fortress—Tibetan +dirt—A medical armoury—The Lamas' library—Roadmaking +and sport—The Tibetan gazelle and other +animals—Evening diversions—Cold, grime, and misery—Manning's +journal—Bogle's account of Phari—History +of the fortress—The town and its occupants—The +mystery of Tibet—The significance of the +frescoes—Departure from Phari—The monastery of +the Red Lamas—Chumulari—The Tibetan New Year—Bogle's +narrative—The Tang la and the road to Lhasa</td><td class="pgno">62-82</td></tr> + +<tr><td class="chap" colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_V">CHAPTER V</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td class="chap2" colspan="2">THE ROAD AND TRANSPORT</td></tr> + +<tr><td class="desc">A transport 'show'—Difficulties of the way—Vicissitudes +of climate—Frozen heights and sweltering valleys—Disease +amongst transport animals—A tale of disaster—The +stricken Yak Corps—Troubles of the transport +officer—Mules to the rescue—The coolie transport +corps—Carrying power of the transport items—The +problem and its solution—The ekka and the yak—A +providentially ascetic beast—Splendid work of the +transport service—Courage and endurance of officers +and men—The 12th Mule Corps benighted in a +blizzard—Rifle-bolts and Maxims frost-jammed—Difficulties +of a Russian advance on Lhasa—The new +Ammo Chu cart-road</td><td class="pgno">83-98 +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_xi">[Pg xi]</a></span></td></tr> + +<tr><td class="chap" colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_VI">CHAPTER VI</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td class="chap2" colspan="2">THE ACTION AT THE HOT SPRINGS</td></tr> + +<tr><td class="desc">The deadlock at Tuna—Discomforts of the garrison—The +Lamas' curse—The attitude of Bhutan—A diplomatic +triumph—Tedious delays—A welcome move forward—The +Tibetan camp at Hot Springs—The Lhasa +Depon meets Colonel Younghusband—Futile conferences—The +Tibetan position surrounded—Coolness +of the Sikhs and Gurkhas—The disarming—A sudden +outbreak—A desperate struggle—The action of the +Lhasa General—The rabble disillusioned in their gods—A +beaten and bewildered enemy—Reflections after +the event—Tibetans in hospital—Three months afterwards</td><td class="pgno">99-114</td></tr> + +<tr><td class="chap" colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_VII">CHAPTER VII</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td class="chap2" colspan="2">A HUMAN MISCELLANY</td></tr> + +<tr><td class="desc">In a doolie to the base—Tibetan bearers—A retrospect—A +reverie and a reminiscence—Snow-bound +at Phari—The Bhutia as bearer—The Lepchas and +their humours—Mongolian odours—The road at last—Platitudes +in epigram—Lucknow doolie-wallahs—Their +hymn of the obvious—Meetings on the road—A +motley of races—Through a tropical forest—The +Tista and civilization</td><td class="pgno">115-126</td></tr> + +<tr><td class="chap" colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_VIII">CHAPTER VIII</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td class="chap2" colspan="2">THE ADVANCE OF THE MISSION OPPOSED</td></tr> + +<tr><td class="desc">The Tibetans responsible for hostilities—Their version of +the Hot Springs affair—Treacherous attack at Samando—Wall-building—The +Red Idol Gorge action—A stiff +climb—The enemy outflanked—Impressed peasants—First +phase of the opposition—Bad generalship—Lack +of enterprise—Erratic shooting—All quiet at Gyantse—Enemy +occupy Karo la—A booby trap—Colonel +Brander's sortie—Frontal attack repulsed—Captain +Bethune killed—Failure of flanking movement—A +critical moment—Sikhs turn the position—Flight and +pursuit—Second phase of the opposition—Advanced +tactics—Danger of being cut off—The attack on +Kangma—Desperate gallantry of the enemy—Patriots +or fanatics?</td><td class="pgno">127-151 +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_xii">[Pg xii]</a></span></td></tr> + +<tr><td class="chap" colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_IX">CHAPTER IX</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td class="chap2" colspan="2">GYANTSE (BY HENRY NEWMAN)</td></tr> + +<tr><td class="desc">A happy valley—Devastated by war—Why the Jong was +evacuated—The lull before the storm—Tibetans +massing—The attack on the mission—A hot ten +minutes—Pyjamaed warriors—Wounded to the rescue—The +Gurkhas' rally—The camp bombarded—The +labour of defence work—Hadow's Maxim—Life +during the siege—Tibetans reinforced—They enfilade +our position—The taking of the 'Gurkha Post'—Terrible +carnage</td><td class="pgno">152-169</td></tr> + +<tr><td class="chap" colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_X">CHAPTER X</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td class="chap2" colspan="2">GYANTSE—<i>continued</i></td></tr> + +<tr><td class="desc">Attack on the postal riders—Brilliant exploit of the +Mounted Infantry—Communications threatened—Clearing +the villages—A narrow shave—Arrival of +reinforcements—The storming of Palla—House-fighting—Capture +of the post—A fantastic display—Night +attacks—Seven miles of front—Advance of the relief +column—The Tibetans cornered—Naini monastery +taken—Capture of Tsaden—Our losses—The armistice—Tibetans +refuse to surrender the Jong—A bristling +fortress—The attack at dawn—The breach—Gallantry +of Lieutenant Grant and his Gurkhas—Capture of +the Jong</td><td class="pgno">170-194</td></tr> + +<tr><td class="chap" colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_XI">CHAPTER XI</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td class="chap2" colspan="2">GOSSIP ON THE ROAD TO THE FRONT</td></tr> + +<tr><td class="desc">A garden in the forest—A jeremiad on transport—The +servant question—Jung Bir—British Bhutan—<ins class="corr" title="Kalimpang">Kalimpong</ins>—'The +Bhutia tat'—Father Desgodins—An +adventurous career—A lost opportunity—Chinese +duplicity—Phuntshog—New arms and new friends +for Tibet—A mysterious Lama—Dorjieff again—The +inscrutable Tibetan</td><td class="pgno">195-206 +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_xiii">[Pg xiii]</a></span></td></tr> + +<tr><td class="chap" colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_XII">CHAPTER XII</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td class="chap2" colspan="2">TO THE GREAT RIVER</td></tr> + +<tr><td class="desc">Failure of peace negociations—Opposition expected—Details +of force—March to the Karo la—Villages +deserted—The second Karo la action—The Gurkhas' +climb—The Tibetan rout—The Kham prisoners—Hopelessness +of the Tibetans' struggle—Their troops +disheartened—Arrival at Nagartse—Tedious delegates—The +victory of a personality—Brush with +Tibetan cavalry—The last shot—The Shapés despoiled—Modern +rifles—Exaggerated reports of Russian +assistance—The Yamdok Tso—Dorje Phagmo—Legends +of the lake—The incubus of an army—Why +men travel—Wildfowl—Pehte—View from the +Khamba Pass—From the desert to Arcadia—The +Tibetan of the tablelands—The Tuna plateau—Homely +scenes—A mood of indolence—The course +of the Tsangpo—The Brahmaputra Irawaddy controversy—The +projected Tsangpo trip—Legendary +geography—Lost opportunities</td><td class="pgno">207-238</td></tr> + +<tr><td class="chap" colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_XIII">CHAPTER XIII</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td class="chap2" colspan="2">LHASA AND ITS VANISHED DEITY</td></tr> + +<tr><td class="desc">The passage of the river—Major Bretherton drowned—The +Kyi Chu valley—Tropical heat—Atisa's tomb—Foraging +in holy places—First sight of the Potala—Hidden +Lhasa—Symbols of remonstrance—Prophecies +of invasion—And decay of Buddhism—Medieval Tibet—Spiritual +terrorism—Lamas' fears of enlightenment—The +last mystery unveiled—Arrival at Lhasa—View +from the Chagpo Ri—Entry into the city—Apathy of +the people—The Potala—Magnificence and squalor—The +secret of romance—A vanished deity—'Thou +shalt not kill'—Secret assassinations—A marvellous +disappearance—The Dalai Lama joins Dorjieff—His +personality and character—The verdict of the +Nepalese Resident—The voice without a soul—The +wisdom of his flight—A romantic picture—The place +of the dead</td><td class="pgno">239-264 +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_xiv">[Pg xiv]</a></span></td></tr> + +<tr><td class="chap" colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_XIV">CHAPTER XIV</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td class="chap2" colspan="2">THE CITY AND ITS TEMPLES</td></tr> + +<tr><td class="desc">Sullen monks—A Lama runs amok—The environs of +Lhasa—The Lingkhor—The Ragyabas—The cathedral—Service +before the Great Buddhas—The Lamas' +chant—Vessels of gold—'Hell'—White mice—The +many-handed Buddha—Silence and abstraction—The +bazaar—Hats—The Mongolians—Curio-hunting—The +Ramo-ché—Sorcery—The adventures of a soul—Lamaism +and Roman Catholicism—The decay of +Buddhism—The three great monasteries—Their +political influence—Depung—An ecclesiastical University—The +'impossible' Tibetan—An ultimatum—Consternation +at Depung—Temporizing and evasion—An +ugly mob—A political deadlock</td><td class="pgno">265-285</td></tr> + +<tr><td class="chap" colspan="2"><a href="#CHAPTER_XV">CHAPTER XV</a></td></tr> + +<tr><td class="chap2" colspan="2">THE SETTLEMENT</td></tr> + +<tr><td class="desc">An irresponsible administration—An insolent reply—Tibetan +haggling—Release of the Lachung men—Social +relations with the Tibetans—A guarded ultimatum—A +diplomatic triumph—The signing of the +treaty—Colonel Younghusband's speech—The terms—Political +prisoners liberated—Deposition of the +Dalai Lama—The Tashe Lama—Prospect of an +Anglophile Pope—The practical results of the expedition—Russia +discredited—Why a Resident should +be left at Lhasa—China hesitates to sign the Treaty—The +'vicious circle' again—Her acquiescence not of +vital importance—The attitude of Tibet to Great +Britain—Fear and respect the only guarantee of +future good conduct</td><td class="pgno">286-304</td></tr> +</table></div> +</div> + +<div class="chapter" id="loi"> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_xv">[Pg xv]</a></span></p> +<h2><a id="LIST_OF_ILLUSTRATIONS"></a>LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS</h2> + +<div class="center"> +<table width="80%" border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="List of Illustrations."> +<tr><td class="desc"><span class="smcap"><a href="#frontis">A Cold Day in Tibet</a></span></td><td class="pgno" colspan="2"> <i>frontispiece</i></td></tr> +<tr><td class="desc"><span class="smcap"><a href="#fp006">Headquarters of the Mission at Lhasa</a></span></td><td class="fp"><i>to face p.</i></td><td class="pgno">6</td></tr> +<tr><td class="desc"><span class="smcap"><a href="#fp012-1">Chorten</a></span></td><td class="fp">"</td><td class="pgno">12</td></tr> +<tr><td class="desc"><span class="smcap"><a href="#fp012-2">Panorama of a Convent</a></span></td><td class="fp">"</td><td class="pgno">12</td></tr> +<tr><td class="desc"><span class="smcap"><a href="#fp020">Tuna Village</a></span></td><td class="fp">"</td><td class="pgno">20</td></tr> +<tr><td class="desc"><span class="smcap"><a href="#fp030-1">Chinese General Ma</a></span></td><td class="fp">"</td><td class="pgno">30</td></tr> +<tr><td class="desc"><span class="smcap"><a href="#fp030-2">On the Road to Gautsa</a></span></td><td class="fp">"</td><td class="pgno">30</td></tr> +<tr><td class="desc"><span class="smcap"><a href="#p041">Rock Sculptures</a></span></td><td class="fp"></td><td class="pgno">41</td></tr> +<tr><td class="desc"><span class="smcap"><a href="#fp054-1">Praying-flags and Mani Wall</a></span></td><td class="fp"><i>to face p.</i></td><td class="pgno">54</td></tr> +<tr><td class="desc"><span class="smcap"><a href="#fp054-2">Officers' Tents, Mounted Infantry Camp, Lingmathang</a></span></td><td class="fp"><i>to face p.</i></td><td class="pgno">54</td></tr> +<tr><td class="desc"><span class="smcap"><a href="#fp060">Subadar Sangat Singh, 1st Mounted Infantry</a></span></td><td class="fp">"</td><td class="pgno">60</td></tr> +<tr><td class="desc"><span class="smcap"><a href="#fp070-1">Wounded Kyang</a></span></td><td class="fp">"</td><td class="pgno">70</td></tr> +<tr><td class="desc"><span class="smcap"><a href="#fp070-2">Goa, or Tibetan Gazelle</a></span></td><td class="fp">"</td><td class="pgno">70</td></tr> +<tr><td class="desc"><span class="smcap"><a href="#fp076-1">The Tang La</a></span></td><td class="fp">"</td><td class="pgno">76</td></tr> +<tr><td class="desc"><span class="smcap"><a href="#fp076-2">Phari Jong</a></span></td><td class="fp">"</td><td class="pgno">76</td></tr> +<tr><td class="desc"><span class="smcap"><a href="#fp094-1">Mounted Infantry Ponies, Tuna Camp</a></span></td><td class="fp">"</td><td class="pgno">94</td></tr> +<tr><td class="desc"><span class="smcap"><a href="#fp094-2">Yak in Ekka</a></span></td><td class="fp">"</td><td class="pgno">94</td></tr> +<tr><td class="desc"><span class="smcap"><a href="#fp102">The Depon's Last Conference with Colonel Younghusband</a></span></td><td class="fp"><i>to face p.</i></td><td class="pgno">102</td></tr> +<tr><td class="desc"><span class="smcap"><a href="#fp106-1">Tibetans retreating from Sangars</a></span></td><td class="fp">"</td><td class="pgno">106</td></tr> +<tr><td class="desc"><span class="smcap"><a href="#fp106-2">Turning Tibetans out of the Sangars on the Hillside</a></span></td><td class="fp"><i>to face p.</i></td><td class="pgno">106</td></tr> +<tr><td class="desc"><span class="smcap"><a href="#fp110">Diagrammatic View of Hot Springs Action</a></span></td><td class="fp">"</td><td class="pgno">110</td></tr> +<tr><td class="desc"><span class="smcap"><a href="#fp118-1">The Tibetan Dead</a></span></td><td class="fp">"</td><td class="pgno">118</td></tr> +<tr><td class="desc"><span class="smcap"><a href="#fp118-2">Field-Hospital Doolie with Tibetan Bearers</a></span></td><td class="fp">"</td><td class="pgno">118</td></tr> +<tr><td class="desc"><span class="smcap"><a href="#fp124">Tibetan Soldiers</a></span></td><td class="fp">"</td><td class="pgno">124</td></tr> +<tr><td class="desc"><span class="smcap"><a href="#fp130-1">Wounded Tibetan</a></span></td><td class="fp">"</td><td class="pgno">130</td></tr> +<tr><td class="desc"><span class="smcap"><a href="#fp130-2">Wounded Tibetan in British Hospital</a></span></td><td class="fp">"</td><td class="pgno">130 +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_xvi">[Pg xvi]</a></span></td></tr> +<tr><td class="desc"><span class="smcap"><a href="#fp142">Pioneers destroying Kangma Wall</a></span></td><td class="fp"><i>to face p.</i></td><td class="pgno">142</td></tr> +<tr><td class="desc"><span class="smcap"><a href="#fp154">Gyantse Jong</a></span></td><td class="fp">"</td><td class="pgno">154</td></tr> +<tr><td class="desc"><span class="smcap"><a href="#fp182-1">Golden-roofed Temple, Gyantse</a></span></td><td class="fp">"</td><td class="pgno">182</td></tr> +<tr><td class="desc"><span class="smcap"><a href="#fp182-2">Buddhas in Palkhor Choide</a></span></td><td class="fp">"</td><td class="pgno">182</td></tr> +<tr><td class="desc"><span class="smcap"><a href="#fp198-1">Tsachen Monastery</a></span></td><td class="fp">"</td><td class="pgno">198</td></tr> +<tr><td class="desc"><span class="smcap"><a href="#fp198-2">Group of Shapés parleying</a></span></td><td class="fp">"</td><td class="pgno">198</td></tr> +<tr><td class="desc"><span class="smcap"><a href="#p213">Sketch of the Karo la</a></span></td><td class="fp"></td><td class="pgno">213</td></tr> +<tr><td class="desc"><span class="smcap"><a href="#fp214-1">Kham Prisoners</a></span></td><td class="fp"><i>to face p.</i></td><td class="pgno">214</td></tr> +<tr><td class="desc"><span class="smcap"><a href="#fp214-2">Gurkhas climbing at the Karo la</a></span></td><td class="fp">"</td><td class="pgno">214</td></tr> +<tr><td class="desc"><span class="smcap"><a href="#fp222">Pehté Jong</a></span></td><td class="fp">"</td><td class="pgno">222</td></tr> +<tr><td class="desc"><span class="smcap"><a href="#fp230">Gubchi Jong</a></span></td><td class="fp">"</td><td class="pgno">230</td></tr> +<tr><td class="desc"><span class="smcap"><a href="#fp236-1">Old Chain-Bridge at Chaksam</a></span></td><td class="fp">"</td><td class="pgno">236</td></tr> +<tr><td class="desc"><span class="smcap"><a href="#fp236-2">Crossing the Tsangpo</a></span></td><td class="fp">"</td><td class="pgno">236</td></tr> +<tr><td class="desc"><span class="smcap"><a href="#fp244">The Potala</a></span></td><td class="fp">"</td><td class="pgno">244</td></tr> +<tr><td class="desc"><span class="smcap"><a href="#fp250-1">Entry into Lhasa</a></span></td><td class="fp">"</td><td class="pgno">250</td></tr> +<tr><td class="desc"><span class="smcap"><a href="#fp250-2">Corner of Courtyard of Astrologer's Temple, +Nechang</a></span></td><td class="fp"><i>to face p.</i></td><td class="pgno">250</td></tr> +<tr><td class="desc"><span class="smcap"><a href="#fp260-1">The Potala, West Front</a></span></td><td class="fp">"</td><td class="pgno">260</td></tr> +<tr><td class="desc"><span class="smcap"><a href="#fp260-2">Mounted Infantry Guard at the Potala</a></span></td><td class="fp">"</td><td class="pgno">260</td></tr> +<tr><td class="desc"><span class="smcap"><a href="#fp268-1">Metal Bowls outside the Jokhang</a></span></td><td class="fp">"</td><td class="pgno">268</td></tr> +<tr><td class="desc"><span class="smcap"><a href="#fp268-2">Street Scene in Lhasa</a></span></td><td class="fp">"</td><td class="pgno">268</td></tr> +<tr><td class="desc"><span class="smcap"><a href="#fp274-1">The Tsarung Shapé</a></span></td><td class="fp">"</td><td class="pgno">274</td></tr> +<tr><td class="desc"><span class="smcap"><a href="#fp274-2">Mongolians in Lhasa</a></span></td><td class="fp">"</td><td class="pgno">274</td></tr> +<tr><td class="desc"><span class="smcap"><a href="#fp286-1">The Ta Lama</a></span></td><td class="fp">"</td><td class="pgno">286</td></tr> +<tr><td class="desc"><span class="smcap"><a href="#fp286-2">Soldier of the Amban's Escort</a></span></td><td class="fp">"</td><td class="pgno">286</td></tr> +<tr><td class="desc"><span class="smcap"><a href="#fp290">Colonel Younghusband and the Amban at the +Races</a></span></td><td class="fp"><i>to face p.</i></td><td class="pgno">290</td></tr> +<tr><td class="desc"><span class="smcap"><a href="#fp294">The Tsarung Shapé and the Sechung Shapé leaving +Lhalu House after the Durbar</a></span></td><td class="fp"><i>to face p.</i></td><td class="pgno">294</td></tr> +<tr><td class="desc"><span class="smcap"><a href="#fp298">Tibetan Drama played in the Courtyard of Lhalu +House</a></span></td><td class="fp"><i>to face p.</i></td><td class="pgno">298</td></tr> +</table></div> +</div> + +<div class="chapter" id="chapter_1"> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_1">[Pg 1]</a></span></p> +<p class="center"><big><big>THE UNVEILING OF LHASA</big></big><br /><br /></p> + +<h2><a id="CHAPTER_I"></a><span>CHAPTER I</span> + +<small>THE CAUSES OF THE EXPEDITION</small></h2> + +<p><span class="smcap">The</span> conduct of Great Britain in her relations with +Tibet puts me in mind of the dilemma of a big +boy at school who submits to the attacks of a precocious +youngster rather than incur the imputation +of 'bully.' At last the situation becomes intolerable, +and the big boy, bully if you will, turns on +the youth and administers the deserved thrashing. +There is naturally a good deal of remonstrance +from spectators who have not observed the byplay +which led to the encounter. But sympathy +must be sacrificed to the restitution of fitting and +respectful relations.</p> + +<p>The aim of this record of an individual's impressions +of the recent Tibetan expedition is to +convey some idea of the life we led in Tibet, the +scenes through which we passed, and the strange +people we fought and conquered. We killed +several thousand of these brave, ill-armed men; +and as the story of the fighting is not always +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_2">[Pg 2]</a></span> +pleasant reading, I think it right before describing +the punitive side of the expedition to make +it quite clear that military operations were unavoidable—that +we were drawn into the vortex +of war against our will by the folly and obstinacy +of the Tibetans.</p> + +<p>The briefest review of the rebuffs Great Britain +has submitted to during the last twenty years +will suffice to show that, so far from being to +blame in adopting punitive measures, she is open +to the charge of unpardonable weakness in allowing +affairs to reach the crisis which made such +punishment necessary.</p> + +<p>It must be remembered that Tibet has not +always been closed to strangers. The history of +European travellers in Lhasa forms a literature +to itself. Until the end of the eighteenth century +only physical obstacles stood in the way of an +entry to the capital. Jesuits and Capuchins +reached Lhasa, made long stays there, and were +even encouraged by the Tibetan Government. +The first<a id="FNanchor_1_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_1_1" class="fnanchor">[1]</a> Europeans to visit the city and leave +an authentic record of their journey were the +Fathers Grueber and d'Orville, who penetrated +Tibet from China in 1661 by the Sining route, and +stayed in Lhasa two months. In 1715 the Jesuits +Desideri and Freyre reached Lhasa; Desideri +stayed there thirteen years. In 1719 arrived +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_3">[Pg 3]</a></span> +Horace de la Penna and the Capuchin Mission, +who built a chapel and a hospice, made several +converts, and were not finally expelled till 1740.<a id="FNanchor_2_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_2_2" class="fnanchor">[2]</a> +The Dutchman Van der Putte, first layman to +penetrate to the capital, arrived in 1720, and +stayed there some years. After this we have no +record of a European reaching Lhasa until the +adventurous journey in 1811 of Thomas Manning, +the first and only Englishman to reach the city +before this year. Manning arrived in the retinue +of a Chinese General whom he had met at Phari +Jong, and whose gratitude he had won for medical +services. He remained in the capital four months, +and during his stay he made the acquaintance of +several Chinese and Tibetan officials, and was even +presented to the Dalai Lama himself. The influence +of his patron, however, was not strong +enough to insure his safety in the city. He was +warned that his life was endangered, and returned +to India by the same way he came. In 1846 the +Lazarist missionaries Huc and Gabet reached +Lhasa in the disguise of Lamas after eighteen +months' wanderings through China and Mongolia, +during which they must have suffered as much +from privations and hardships as any travellers +who have survived to tell the tale. They were +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_4">[Pg 4]</a></span> +received kindly by the Amban and Regent, but +permission to stay was firmly refused them on +the grounds that they were there to subvert the +religion of the State. Despite the attempts of +several determined travellers, none of whom got +within a hundred miles of Lhasa, the Lazarist +fathers were the last Europeans to set foot in the +city until Colonel Younghusband rode through +the Pargo Kaling gate on August 4, 1904.</p> + +<p>The records of these travellers to Lhasa, and +of others who visited different parts of Tibet +before the end of the eighteenth century, do not +point to any serious political obstacles to the +admission of strangers. Two centuries ago, +Europeans might travel in remote parts of Asia +with greater safety than is possible to-day. Suspicions +have naturally increased with our encroachments, +and the white man now inspires +fear where he used only to awake interest.<a id="FNanchor_3_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_3_3" class="fnanchor">[3]</a></p> + +<p>The policy of strict exclusion in Tibet seems to +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_5">[Pg 5]</a></span> +have been synchronous with Chinese ascendancy. +At the end of the eighteenth century the Nepalese +invaded and overran the country. The Lamas +turned to China for help, and a force of 70,000 +men was sent to their assistance. The Chinese +drove the Gurkhas over their frontier, and practically +annihilated their army within a day's march +of Khatmandu. From this date China has virtually +or nominally ruled in Lhasa, and an important +result of her intervention has been to sow +distrust of the British. She represented that we +had instigated the Nepalese invasion, and warned +the Lamas that the only way to obviate our +designs on Tibet was to avoid all communication +with India, and keep the passes strictly closed to +foreigners.</p> + +<p>Shortly before the Nepalese War, Warren Hastings +had sent the two missions of Bogle and +Turner to Shigatze. Bogle was cordially received +by the Grand Teshu Lama, and an intimate +friendship was established between the two men. +On his return to India he reported that the only +bar to a complete understanding with Tibet was +the obstinacy of the Regent and the Chinese +agents at Lhasa, who were inspired by Peking. +An attempt was arranged to influence the Chinese +Government in the matter, but both Bogle and +the Teshu Lama died before it could be carried +out. Ten years later Turner was despatched to +Tibet, and received the same welcome as his predecessor. +Everything pointed to the continuance +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_6">[Pg 6]</a></span> +of a steady and consistent policy by which the +barrier of obstruction might have been broken +down. But Warren Hastings was recalled in +1785, and Lord Cornwallis, the next Governor-General, +took no steps to approach and conciliate +the Tibetans. It was in 1792 that the Tibetan-Nepalese +War broke out, which, owing to the +misrepresentations of China, precluded any possibility +of an understanding between India and +Tibet. Such was the uncompromising spirit of +the Lamas that, until Lord Dufferin sanctioned +the commercial mission of Mr. Colman Macaulay +in 1886, no succeeding Viceroy after Warren +Hastings thought it worth while to renew the +attempt to enter into friendly relations with the +country.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<a id="fp006"></a><a href="images/fp006.jpg"> +<img src="images/fp006s.jpg" alt="" title="" /></a> +<span class="caption"><br />Headquarters of the Mission at Lhasa.</span> +</div> + +<p>The Macaulay Mission incident was the beginning +of that weak and abortive policy which +lost us the respect of the Tibetans, and led to +the succession of affronts and indignities which +made the recent expedition to Lhasa inevitable. +The escort had already advanced into Sikkim, +and Mr. Macaulay was about to join it, when +orders were received from Government for its +return. The withdrawal was a concession to the +Chinese, with whom we were then engaged in the +delimitation of the Burmese frontier. This display +of weakness incited the Tibetans to such a +pitch of vanity and insolence that they invaded +our territory and established a military post at +Lingtu, only seventy miles from Darjeeling. +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_7">[Pg 7]</a></span></p> + +<p>We allowed the invaders to remain in the protected +State of Sikkim two years before we made +any reprisal. In 1888, after several vain appeals +to China to use her influence to withdraw the +Tibetan troops, we reluctantly decided on a +military expedition. The Tibetans were driven +from their position, defeated in three separate +engagements, and pursued over the frontier as +far as Chumbi. We ought to have concluded a +treaty with them on the spot, when we were in a +position to enforce it, but we were afraid of offending +the susceptibilities of China, whose suzerainty +over Tibet we still recognised, though she had +acknowledged her inability to restrain the Tibetans +from invading our territory. At the conclusion +of the campaign, in which the Tibetans showed +no military instincts whatever, we returned to +our post at Gnatong, on the Sikkim frontier.</p> + +<p>After two years of fruitless discussion, a convention +was drawn up between Great Britain and +China, by which Great Britain's exclusive control +over the internal administration and foreign relations +of Sikkim was recognised, the Sikkim-Tibet +boundary was defined, and both Powers undertook +to prevent acts of aggression from their respective +sides of the frontier. The questions of pasturage, +trade facilities, and the method in which official +communications should be conducted between the +Government of India and the authorities at Lhasa +were deferred for future discussion. Nearly +three more years passed before the trade regulations +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_8">[Pg 8]</a></span> +were drawn up in Darjeeling—in December, +1903. The negociations were characterized by +the same shuffling and equivocation on the part +of the Chinese, and the same weak-kneed policy +of forbearance and conciliation on the part of the +British. Treaty and regulations were alike impotent, +and our concessions went so far that we +exacted nothing as the fruit of our victory over +the Tibetans—not even a fraction of the cost of +the campaign.</p> + +<p>Our ignorance of the Tibetans, their Government, +and their relations with China was at this +time so profound that we took our cue from the +Chinese, who always referred to the Lhasa +authorities as 'the barbarians.' The Shata Shapé, +the most influential of the four members of Council, +attended the negociations on behalf of the Tibetans. +He was officially ignored, and no one thought of +asking him to attach his signature to the treaty. +The omission was a blunder of far-reaching consequences. +Had we realized that Chinese authority +was practically non-existent in Lhasa, and that +the temporal affairs of Tibet were mainly directed +by the four Shapés and the Tsong-du (the very +existence of which, by the way, was unknown to +us), we might have secured a diplomatic agent in +the Shata Shapé who would have proved invaluable +to us in our future relations with the country. +Unfortunately, during his stay in Darjeeling the +Shapé's feelings were lacerated by ill-treatment +as well as neglect. In an unfortunate encounter +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_9">[Pg 9]</a></span> +with British youth, which was said to have arisen +from his jostling an English lady off the path, he +was taken by the scruff of the neck and ducked +in the public fountain. So he returned to Tibet +with no love for the English, and after certain +courteous overtures from the agents of 'another +Power,' became a confirmed, though more or less +accidental, Russophile. Though deposed,<a id="FNanchor_4_4"></a><a href="#Footnote_4_4" class="fnanchor">[4]</a> he has +at the present moment a large following among +the monks of the Gaden monastery.</p> + +<p>In the regulations of 1893 it was stipulated that +a trade mart should be established at Yatung, a +small hamlet six miles beyond our frontier. The +place is obviously unsuitable, situated as it is in +a narrow pine-clad ravine, where one can throw +a stone from cliff to cliff across the valley. No +traders have ever resorted there, and the Tibetans +have studiously boycotted the place. To show +their contempt for the treaty, and their determination +to ignore it, they built a wall a quarter of a +mile beyond the Customs House, through which +no Tibetan or British subject was allowed to +pass, and, to nullify the object of the mart, a tax +of 10 per cent. on Indian goods was levied at +Phari. Every attempt was made by Sheng Tai, +the late Amban, to induce the Tibetans to substitute +Phari for Yatung as a trade mart. But, +as an official report admits, 'it was found impossible +to overcome their reluctance. Yatung was +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_10">[Pg 10]</a></span> +eventually accepted both by the Chinese and +British Governments as the only alternative to +breaking off the negociations altogether.' This +confession of weakness appears to me abject +enough to quote as typical of our attitude throughout. +In deference to Tibetan wishes, we allowed +nearly every clause of the treaty to be separately +stultified.</p> + +<p>The Tibetans, as might be expected, met our +forbearance by further rebuffs. Not content with +evading their treaty obligations in respect to trade, +they proceeded to overthrow our boundary pillars, +violate grazing rights, and erect guard-houses at +Giagong, in Sikkim territory. When called to +question they repudiated the treaty, and said +that it had never been shown them by the Amban. +It had not been sealed or confirmed by any +Tibetan representative, and they had no intention +of observing it.</p> + +<p>Once more the 'solemn farce' was enacted of +an appeal to China to use her influence with the +Lhasa authorities. And it was only after repeated +representations had been made by the +Indian Government to the Secretary of State that +the Home Government realized the seriousness of +the situation, and the hopelessness of making any +progress through the agency of China. 'We +seem,' said Lord Curzon, 'in respect to our policy +in Tibet, to be moving in a vicious circle. If we +apply to Tibet we either receive no reply or are +referred to the Chinese Resident; if we apply to +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_11">[Pg 11]</a></span> +the latter, he excuses his failure by his inability +to put any pressure upon Tibet.' In the famous +despatch of January 8, 1903, the Viceroy described +the Chinese suzerainty as 'a political fiction,' only +maintained because of its convenience to both +parties. China no doubt is capable of sending +sufficient troops to Lhasa to coerce the Tibetans. +But it has suited her book to maintain the present +elusive and anomalous relations with Tibet, which +are a securer buttress to her western dependencies +against encroachment than the strongest army +corps. For many years we have been the butt of +the Tibetans, and China their stalking-horse.</p> + +<p>The Tibetan attitude was clearly expressed by +the Shigatze officials at Khamba Jong in September +last year, when they openly boasted that +'where Chinese policy was in accordance with their +own views they were ready enough to accept the +Amban's advice; but if this advice ran counter +in any respect to their national prejudices, the +Chinese Emperor himself would be powerless to +influence them.' China has on several occasions +confessed her inability to coerce the Tibetans. +She has proved herself unable to enforce the observance +of treaties or even to restrain her subjects +from invading our territory, and during the recent +attempts at negociations she had to admit that +her representative in Lhasa was officially ignored, +and not even allowed transport to travel in the +country. In the face of these facts her exceedingly +shadowy suzerainty may be said to have +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_12">[Pg 12]</a></span> +entirely evaporated, and it is unreasonable to +expect us to continue our relations with Tibet +through the medium of Peking.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<a id="fp012-1"></a><a href="images/fp012-1.jpg"> +<img src="images/fp012-1s.jpg" alt="" title="" /></a> +<span class="caption"><br />Chorten.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<a id="fp012-2"></a><a href="images/fp012-2.jpg"> +<img src="images/fp012-2s.jpg" alt="" title="" /></a> +<span class="caption"><br />Panorama of a Convent.</span> +</div> + +<p>It was not until nine years after the signing of +the convention that we made any attempt to +open direct communications with the Tibetans +themselves. It is astonishing that we allowed +ourselves to be hoodwinked so long. But this +policy of drift and waiting is characteristic of +our foreign relations all over the world. British +Cabinets seem to believe that cure is better than +prevention, and when faced by a dilemma have +seldom been known to act on the initiative, or +take any decided course until the very existence +of their dependency is imperilled.</p> + +<p>In 1901 Lord Curzon was permitted to send a +despatch to the Dalai Lama in which it was +pointed out that his Government had consistently +defied and ignored treaty rights; and in view of +the continued occupation of British territory, the +destruction of frontier pillars, and the restrictions +imposed on Indian trade, we should be compelled +to resort to more practical measures to enforce +the observance of the treaty, should he remain +obstinate in his refusal to enter into friendly +relations. The letter was returned unopened, +with the verbal excuse that the Chinese did not +permit him to receive communications from any +foreign Power. Yet so great was our reluctance +to resort to military coercion that we might even +at this point have let things drift, and submitted +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_13">[Pg 13]</a></span> +to the rebuffs of these impossible Tibetans, had +not the Dalai Lama chosen this moment for +publicly flaunting his relations with Russia.</p> + +<p>The second<a id="FNanchor_5_5"></a><a href="#Footnote_5_5" class="fnanchor">[5]</a> Tibetan Mission reached St. Petersburg +in June, 1901, carrying autograph letters and +presents to the Czar from the Dalai Lama. Count +Lamsdorff declared that the mission had no +political significance whatever. We were asked +to believe that these Lamas travelled many +thousand miles to convey a letter that expressed +the hope that the Russian Foreign Minister was +in good health and prosperous, and informed him +that the Dalai Lama was happy to be able to say +that he himself enjoyed excellent health.</p> + +<p>It is possible that the mission to St. Petersburg +was of a purely religious character, and that there +was no secret understanding at the time between +the Lhasa authorities and Russia. Yet the fact +that the mission was despatched in direct contradiction +to the national policy of isolation that had +been respected for over a century, and at a time +when the Tibetans were aware of impending +British activity to exact fulfilment of the treaty +obligations so long ignored by them, points to +some secret influence working in Lhasa in favour +of Russia, and opposed to British interests. The +process of Russification that has been carried on +with such marked success in Persia and Turkestan, +Merv and Bokhara, was being applied in Tibet. It +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_14">[Pg 14]</a></span> +has long been known to our Intelligence Department +that certain Buriat Lamas, subjects of the +Czar, and educated in Russia, have been acting +as intermediaries between Lhasa and St. Petersburg. +The chief of these, one Dorjieff, headed the +so-called religious mission of 1901, and has been +employed more than once as the Dalai Lama's +ambassador to St. Petersburg. Dorjieff is a man +of fifty-eight, who has spent some twenty years +of his life in Lhasa, and is known to be the right-hand +adviser of the Dalai Lama. No doubt +Dorjieff played on the fears of the Buddhist Pope +until he really believed that Tibet was in danger +of an invasion from India, in which eventuality +the Czar, the great Pan-Buddhist Protector, would +descend on the British and drive them back over +the frontier. The Lamas of Tibet imagine that +Russia is a Buddhist country, and this belief has +been fostered by adventurers like Dorjieff, Tsibikoff, +and others, who have inspired dreams of a +consolidated Buddhist church under the spiritual +control of the Dalai Lama and the military ægis +of the Czar of All the Russias.</p> + +<p>These dreams, full of political menace to ourselves, +have, I think, been dispelled by Lord +Curzon's timely expedition to Lhasa. The presence +of the British in the capital and the helplessness +of Russia to lend any aid in such a crisis +are facts convincing enough to stultify the effects +of Russian intrigue in Buddhist Central Asia +during the last half-century. +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_15">[Pg 15]</a></span></p> + +<p>The fact that the first Dalai Lama who has been +allowed to reach maturity has plunged his country +into war by intrigue with a foreign Power proves +the astuteness of the cold-blooded policy of removing +the infant Pope, and the investiture of +power in the hands of a Regent inspired by Peking. +It is believed that the present Dalai Lama was +permitted to come of age in order to throw off +the Chinese yoke. This aim has been secured, +but it has involved other issues that the Lamas +could not foresee.</p> + +<p>And here it must be observed that the Dalai +Lama's inclination towards Russia does not represent +any considerable national movement. The +desire for a rapprochement was largely a matter +of personal ambition inspired by that arch-intriguer +Dorjieff, whose ascendancy over the +Dalai Lama was proved beyond a doubt when +the latter joined him in his flight to Mongolia on +hearing the news of the British advance on Lhasa. +Dorjieff had a certain amount of popularity with +the priest population of the capital, and the +monks of the three great monasteries, amongst +whom he is known to have distributed largess +royally. But the traditional policy of isolation +is so inveterately ingrained in the Tibetan character +that it is doubtful if he could have organized +a popular party of any strength.</p> + +<p>It may be asked, then, What is, or was, the +nature of the Russian menace in Tibet? It is +true that a Russian invasion on the North-East +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_16">[Pg 16]</a></span> +frontier is out of the question. For to reach the +Indian passes the Russians would have to traverse +nearly 1,500 miles of almost uninhabited country, +presenting difficulties as great as any we had to +contend with during the recent campaign. But +the establishment of Russian influence in Lhasa +might mean military danger of another kind. It +would be easy for her to stir up the Tibetans, +spread disaffection among the Bhutanese, send +secret agents into Nepal, and generally undermine +our prestige. Her aim would be to create a +diversion on the Tibet frontier at any time she +might have designs on the North-West. The +pioneers of the movement had begun their work. +They were men of the usual type—astute, insidious, +to be disavowed in case of premature discovery, or +publicly flaunted when they had prepared any +ground on which to stand.</p> + +<p>Our countermove—the Tibet Expedition—must +have been a crushing and unexpected +blow to Russia. For the first time in modern +history Great Britain had taken a decisive, +almost high-handed, step to obviate a danger +that was far from imminent. We had all the +best cards in our hands. Russia's designs in +Lhasa became obvious at a time when we could +point to open defiance on the part of the Tibetans, +and provocation such as would have goaded any +other European nation to a punitive expedition +years before. We could go to Lhasa, apparently +without a thought of Russia, and yet undo all the +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_17">[Pg 17]</a></span> +effects of her scheming there, and deal her prestige +a blow that would be felt throughout the whole of +Central Asia. Such was Lord Curzon's policy. It +was adopted in a half-hearted way by the Home +Government, and eventually forced on them by +the conduct of the Tibetans themselves. Needless +to say, the discovery of Russian designs was the +real and prime cause of the despatch of the +mission, while Tibet's violation of treaty rights +and refusal to enter into any relations with us +were convenient as ostensible motives. It cannot +be denied that these grievances were valid enough +to justify the strongest measures.</p> + +<p>In June, 1903, came the announcement of +Colonel Younghusband's mission to Khamba Jong. +I do not think that the Indian Government ever +expected that the Tibetans would come to any +agreement with us at Khamba Jong. It is to their +credit that they waited patiently several months +in order to give them every chance of settling +things amicably. However, as might have been +expected, the Commission was boycotted. Irresponsible +delegates of inferior rank were sent by +the Tibetans and Chinese, and the Lhasa delegates, +after some fruitless parleyings, shut themselves +up in the fort, and declined all intercourse, +official or social, with the Commissioners.<a id="FNanchor_6_6"></a><a href="#Footnote_6_6" class="fnanchor">[6]</a></p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_18">[Pg 18]</a></span></p> + +<p>At the end of August news came that the +Tibetans were arming. Colonel Younghusband +learnt that they had made up their minds to have +no negociations with us <i>inside</i> Tibet. They had +decided to leave us alone at Khamba Jong, and to +oppose us by force if we attempted to advance +further. They believed themselves fully equal to +the English, and far from our getting anything +out of them, they thought that they would be +able to force something out of us. This is not +surprising when we consider the spirit of concession +in which we had met them on previous occasions.</p> + +<p>At Khamba Jong the Commissioners were informed +by Colonel Chao, the Chinese delegate, +that the Tibetans were relying on Russian assistance. +This was confirmed later at Guru by the +Tibetan officials, who boasted that if they were +defeated they would fall back on another Power.</p> + +<p>In September the Tibetans aggravated the +situation by seizing and beating at Shigatze two +British subjects of the Lachung Valley in Sikkim. +These men were not restored to liberty until we +had forced our way to Lhasa and demanded their +liberation, twelve months afterwards.</p> + +<p>The mission remained in its ignominious position +at Khamba Jong until its recall in November. +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_19">[Pg 19]</a></span> +Almost at the same time the expedition to Gyantse +was announced.<a id="FNanchor_7_7"></a><a href="#Footnote_7_7" class="fnanchor">[7]</a></p> + +<p>In the face of the gross and deliberate affront +to which we had been subjected at Khamba Jong +it was now, of course, impossible to withdraw +from Tibetan territory until we had impressed +on the Lamas the necessity of meeting us in a +reasonable spirit. It was clear that the Tibetans +meant fighting, and the escort had to be increased +to 2,500 men. The patience of Government was +at last exhausted, and it was decided that the +mission was to proceed into Tibet, dictate terms +to the Lamas, and, if necessary, enforce compliance. +The advance to Gyantse was sanctioned +in the first place. But it was quite expected that +the obstinacy of the Tibetans would make it +necessary to push on to Lhasa.</p> + +<p>Colonel Younghusband crossed the Jelap la into +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_20">[Pg 20]</a></span> +Tibet on December 13, meeting with no opposition. +Phari Jong was reached on the 20th, and the fort +surrendered without a shot being fired. Thence +the mission proceeded on January 7 across the +Tang Pass, and took up its quarters on the cold, +wind-swept plateau of Tuna, at an elevation of +15,300 feet. Here it remained for three months, +while preparations were being made for an advance +in the spring. Four companies of the 23rd +Pioneers, a machine-gun section of the Norfolk +Regiment, and twenty Madras sappers, were left +to garrison the place, and General Macdonald, with +the remainder of the force, returned to Chumbi for +winter quarters. Chumbi (10,060 feet) is well +within the wood belt, but even here the thermometer +falls to 15° below zero.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<a id="fp020"></a><a href="images/fp020.jpg"> +<img src="images/fp020s.jpg" alt="" title="" /></a> +<span class="caption"><br />Tuna Village.</span> +</div> + +<p>A more miserable place to winter in than Tuna +cannot be imagined. But for political reasons, it +was inadvisable that the mission should spend +the winter in the Chumbi Valley, which is not +geographically a part of Tibet proper. A retrograde +movement from Khamba Jong to Chumbi +would be interpreted by the Tibetans as a sign +of yielding, and strengthen them in their opinion +that we had no serious intention of penetrating +to Gyantse.</p> + +<p>With this brief account of the facts that led to +the expedition I abandon politics for the present, +and in the succeeding chapters will attempt to +give a description of the Chumbi Valley, which, +I believe, was untrodden by any European before +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_21">[Pg 21]</a></span> +Colonel Younghusband's arrival in December, +1903.</p> + +<p>I was in India when I received permission to +join the force. I took the train to Darjeeling +without losing a day, and rode into Chumbi in +less than forty-eight hours, reaching the British +camp on January 10.</p> +</div> + +<div class="chapter" id="chapter_2"> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_22">[Pg 22]</a></span></p> +<h2><a id="CHAPTER_II"></a><span>CHAPTER II</span> + +<small>OVER THE FRONTIER</small></h2> + +<p class="right"><span class="r1"><span class="smcap">Chumbi</span>,</span><br /> +<span class="r2"><i>January</i> 13.</span></p> + +<p><span class="smcap">From</span> Darjeeling to Lhasa is 380 miles. These, +as in the dominions of Namgay Doola's Raja, are +mostly on end. The road crosses the Tibetan +frontier at the Jelap la (14,350 feet) eighty miles +to the north-east. From Observatory Hill in +Darjeeling one looks over the bleak hog-backed +ranges of Sikkim to the snows. To the north and +north-west lie Kinchenjunga and the tremendous +chain of mountains that embraces Everest. To +the north-east stretches a lower line of dazzling +rifts and spires, in which one can see a thin gray +wedge, like a slice in a Christmas cake. That is +the Jelap. Beyond it lies Tibet.</p> + +<p>There is a good military road from Siliguri, the +base station in the plains to Rungpo, forty-eight +miles along the Teesta Valley. By following the +river-bed it avoids the two steep ascents to Kalimpong +and Ari. The new route saves at least a +day, and conveys one to Rungli, nearly seventy +miles from the base, without compassing a single +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_23">[Pg 23]</a></span> +tedious incline. It has also the advantage of +being practicable for bullock-carts and ekkas as +far as Rungpo. After that the path is a 6-foot +mule-track, at its best a rough, dusty incline, at +its worst a succession of broken rocks and frozen +puddles, which give no foothold to transport +animals. From Rungpo the road skirts the stream +for sixteen miles to Rungli, along a fertile valley +of some 2,000 feet, through rice-fields and orange-groves +and peaceful villages, now the scene of +military bustle and preparation. From Rungli it +follows a winding mountain torrent, whose banks +are sometimes sheer precipitous crags. Then it +strikes up the mountain side, and becomes a +ladder of stone steps over which no animal in +the world can make more than a mile and a half +an hour. From the valley to Gnatong is a climb +of some 10,000 feet without a break. The scenery +is most magnificent, and I doubt if it is possible +to find anywhere in the same compass the characteristics +of the different zones of vegetation—from +tropical to temperate, from temperate to alpine—so +beautifully exhibited.</p> + +<p>At ordinary seasons transport is easy, and one +can take the road in comfort; but now every mule +and pony in Sikkim and the Terai is employed on +the lines of communication, and one has to pay +300 rupees for an animal of the most modest pretensions. +It is reckoned eight days from Darjeeling +to Chumbi, but, riding all day and most +of the night, I completed the journey in two. +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_24">[Pg 24]</a></span> +Newspaper correspondents are proverbially in a +hurry. To send the first wire from Chumbi I +had to leave my kit behind, and ride with poshteen<a id="FNanchor_8_8"></a><a href="#Footnote_8_8" class="fnanchor">[8]</a> +and sleeping-bag tied to my saddle. I was +racing another correspondent. At Rungpo I +found that he was five hours ahead of me, but he +rested on the road, and I had gained three hours +on him before he left the next stage at Rora +Thang. Here I learnt that he intended to camp +at Lingtam, twelve miles further on, in a tent +lent him by a transport officer. I made up my +mind to wait outside Lingtam until it was dark, +and then to steal a march on him unobserved. +But I believed no one. Wayside reports were +probably intended to deceive me, and no doubt +my informant was his unconscious confederate.</p> + +<p>Outside Rungli, six miles further on, I stopped +at a little Bhutia's hut, where he had been resting. +They told me he had gone on only half an hour +before me. I loitered on the road, and passed +Lingtam in the dark. The moon did not rise till +three, and riding in the dark was exciting. At +first the white dusty road showed clearly enough +a few yards ahead, but after passing Lingtam it +became a narrow path cut out of a thickly-wooded +cliff above a torrent, a wall of rock on one side, a +precipice on the other. Here the darkness was +intense. A white stone a few yards ahead looked +like the branch of a tree overhead. A dim shapeless +object to the left might be a house, a rock, a +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_25">[Pg 25]</a></span> +bear—anything. Uphill and downhill could only +be distinguished by the angle of the saddle. +Every now and then a firefly lit up the white +precipice an arm's-length to the right. Once +when my pony stopped panting with exhaustion +I struck a match and found that we had come to +a sharp zigzag. Part of the revetment had fallen; +there was a yard of broken path covered with fern +and bracken, then a drop of some hundred feet to +the torrent below. After that I led my beast for +a mile until we came to a charcoal-burner's hut. +Two or three Bhutias were sitting round a log +fire, and I persuaded one to go in front of me with +a lighted brand. So we came to Sedongchen, +where I left my beast dead beat, rested a few hours, +bought a good mule, and pressed on in the early +morning by moonlight. The road to Gnatong lies +through a magnificent forest of oak and chestnut. +For five miles it is nothing but the ascent of stone +steps I have described. Then the rhododendron +zone is reached, and one passes through a forest of +gnarled and twisted trunks, writhing and contorted +as if they had been thrust there for some penance. +The place suggested a scene from Dante's 'Inferno.' +As I reached the saddle of Lingtu the +moon was paling, and the eastern sky-line became +a faint violet screen. In a few minutes Kinchenjunga +and Kabru on the north-west caught the +first rays of the sun, and were suffused with the +delicate rosy glow of dawn.</p> + +<p>I reached Gnatong in time to breakfast with +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_26">[Pg 26]</a></span> +the 8th Gurkhas. The camp lies in a little cleft +in the hills at an elevation of 12,200 feet. When +I last visited the place I thought it one of the +most desolate spots I had seen. My first impressions +were a wilderness of gray stones and gray, +uninhabited houses, felled tree-trunks denuded of +bark, white and spectral on the hillside. There +was no life, no children's voices or chattering +women, no bazaar apparently, no dogs barking, +not even a pariah to greet you. If there was a +sound of life it was the bray of some discontented +mule searching for stray blades of grass among +the stones. There were some fifty houses nearly +all smokeless and vacant. Some had been barracks +at the time of the last Sikkim War, and of +the soldiers who inhabited them fifteen still lay +in Gnatong in a little gray cemetery, which was +the first indication of the nearness of human life. +The inscriptions over the graves were all dated +1888, 1889, or 1890, and though but fourteen +years had passed, many of them were barely +decipherable. The houses were scattered about +promiscuously, with no thought of neighbourliness +or convenience, as though the people were +living there under protest, which was very probably +the case. But the place had its picturesque +feature. You might mistake some of the houses +for tumbledown Swiss châlets of the poorer sort +were it not for the miniature fir-trees planted on +the roofs, with their burdens of prayers hanging +from the branches like parcels on a Christmas-tree. +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_27">[Pg 27]</a></span></p> + +<p>These were my impressions a year or two +ago, but now Gnatong is all life and bustle. In +the bazaar a convoy of 300 mules was being +loaded. The place was crowded with Nepalese +coolies and Tibetan drivers, picturesque in their +woollen knee-boots of red and green patterns, +with a white star at the foot, long russet cloaks +bound tightly at the waist and bulging out with +cooking-utensils and changes of dress, embroidered +caps of every variety and description, as often as +not tied to the head by a wisp of hair. In Rotten +Row—the inscription of 1889 still remains—I met +a subaltern with a pair of skates. He showed me +to the mess-room, where I enjoyed a warm breakfast +and a good deal of chaff about correspondents +who 'were in such a devil of a hurry to get to a +God-forsaken hole where there wasn't going to be +the ghost of a show.'</p> + +<p>I left Gnatong early on a borrowed pony. A +mile and a half from the camp the road crosses +the Tuko Pass, and one descends again for another +two miles to Kapup, a temporary transport stage. +The path lies to the west of the Bidang Tso, a +beautiful lake with a moraine at the north-west +side. The mountains were strangely silent, and +the only sound of wild life was the whistling of the +red-billed choughs, the commonest of the <i>Corvidæ</i> +at these heights. They were flying round and +round the lake in an unsettled manner, whistling +querulously, as though in complaint at the intrusion +of their solitude. +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_28">[Pg 28]</a></span></p> + +<p>I reached the Jelap soon after noon. No snow +had fallen. The approach was over broken rock +and shale. At the summit was a row of cairns, +from which fluttered praying-flags and tattered bits +of votive raiment. Behind us and on both sides +was a thin mist, but in front my eyes explored +a deep narrow valley bathed in sunshine. Here, +then, was Tibet, the forbidden, the mysterious. +In the distance all the land was that yellow and +brick-dust colour I had often seen in pictures +and thought exaggerated and unreal. Far to the +north-east Chumulari (23,930 feet), with its magnificent +white spire rising from the roof-like mass +behind, looked like an immense cathedral of snow. +Far below on a yellow hillside hung the Kanjut +Lamasery above Rinchengong. In the valley +beneath lay Chumbi and the road to Lhasa.</p> + +<p>There is a descent of over 4,000 feet in six miles +from the summit of the Jelap. The valley is +perfectly straight, without a bend, so that one +can look down from the pass upon the Kanjut +monastery on the hillside immediately above +Yatung. The pass would afford an impregnable +military position to a people with the rudiments +of science and martial spirit. A few riflemen on +the cliffs that command it might annihilate a +column with perfect safety, and escape into +Bhutan before any flanking movement could be +made. Yet miles of straggling convoy are allowed +to pass daily with the supplies that are necessary +for the existence of the force ahead. The road to +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_29">[Pg 29]</a></span> +Phari Jong passes through two military walls. +The first at Yatung, six miles below the pass, is +a senseless obstruction, and any able-bodied +Tommy with hobnailed boots might very easily +kick it down. It has no block-houses, and would +be useless against a flank attack. Before our +advance to Chumbi the wall was inhabited by +three Chinese officials, a dingpon, or Tibetan +sergeant, and twenty Tibetan soldiers. It served +as a barrier beyond which no British subject was +allowed to pass. The second wall lies across the +valley at Gob-sorg, four miles beyond our camp +at Chumbi. It is roofed and loop-holed like the +Yatung barrier, and is defended by block-houses. +This fortification and every mile of valley between +the Jelap and Gautsa might be held by a single +company against an invading force. Yet there +are not half a dozen Chinese or Tibetan soldiers +in the valley. No opposition is expected this side +of the Tang la, but nondescript troops armed with +matchlocks and bows hover round the mission on +the open plateau beyond. Our evacuation of +Khamba Jong and occupation of Chumbi were so +rapid and unexpected that it is thought the +Tibetans had no time to bring troops into the +valley; but to anyone who knows their strategical +incompetence, no explanation is necessary.</p> + +<p>Yatung is reached by one of the worst sections +of road on the march; one comes across a dead +transport mule at almost every zigzag of the +descent. For ten years the village has enjoyed +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_30">[Pg 30]</a></span> +the distinction of being the only place in Southern +Tibet accessible to Europeans. Not that many +Europeans avail themselves of its accessibility, +for it is a dreary enough place to live in, shrouded +as it is in cloud more than half the year round, +and embedded in a valley so deep and narrow +that in winter-time the sun has hardly risen +above one cliff when it sinks behind another. +The privilege of access to Yatung was the result +of the agreement between Great Britain and +China with regard to trade communications between +India and Tibet drawn up in Darjeeling +in 1893, subsequently to the Sikkim Convention. +It was then stipulated that there should be a trade +mart at Yatung to which British subjects should +have free access, and that there should be special +trade facilities between Sikkim and Tibet. It is +reported that the Chinese Amban took good care +that Great Britain should not benefit by these new +regulations, for after signing the agreement which +was to give the Indian tea-merchants a market in +Tibet, he introduced new regulations the other +side of the frontier, which prohibited the purchase +of Indian tea. Whether the story is true or not, +it is certainly characteristic of the evasion and +duplicity which have brought about the present +armed mission into Tibet.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<a id="fp030-1"></a><a href="images/fp030-1.jpg"> +<img src="images/fp030-1s.jpg" alt="" title="" /></a> +<span class="caption"><br />Chinese General Ma.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<a id="fp030-2"></a><a href="images/fp030-2.jpg"> +<img src="images/fp030-2s.jpg" alt="" title="" /></a> +<span class="caption"><br />On the Road to Gautsa.</span> +</div> + +<p>To-day, as one rides through the cobbled +street of Yatung, the only visible effects of the +Convention are the Chinese Customs House with +its single European officer, and the residence +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</a></span> +of a lady missionary, or trader, as the exigencies +of international diplomacy oblige her to term +herself. The Customs House, which was opened +on May 1, 1894, was first established with the +object of estimating the trade between India +and Tibet—traffic is not permitted by any +other route than the Jelap—and with a view to +taxation when the trade should make it worth +while. It was stipulated that no duties should +be levied for the period of five years. Up to the +present no tariff has been imposed, and the only +apparent use the Customs House serves is to +collect statistics, and perhaps to remind Tibet of +the shadowy suzerainty of China. The natives +have boycotted the place, and refuse to trade +there, and no European or native of India has +thought it worth while to open a market. Phari +is the real trade mart on the frontier, and Kalimpong, +in British Bhutan, is the foreign trade mart. +But the whole trade between India and Tibet is +on such a small scale that it might be in the hands +of a single merchant.</p> + +<p>The Customs House, the missionary house, and +the houses of the clerks and servants of the +Customs and of the headman, form a little block. +Beyond it there is a quarter of a mile of barren +stony ground, and then the wall with military +pretensions. I rode through the gate unchallenged.</p> + +<p>At Rinchengong, a mile beyond the barrier, the +Yatung stream flows into the Ammo Chu. The +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_32">[Pg 32]</a></span> +road follows the eastern bank of the river, passing +through Cheuma and Old Chumbi, where it crosses +the stream. After crossing the bridge, a mile of +almost level ground takes one into Chumbi camp. +I reached Chumbi on the evening of January 12, +and was able to send the <i>Daily Mail</i> the first +cable from Tibet, having completed the journey +from Darjeeling in two days' hard riding.</p> + +<p>The camp lies in a shallow basin in the hills, and +is flanked by brown fir-clad hills which rise some +1,500 feet above the river-bed, and preclude a +view of the mountains on all sides. The situation +is by no means the best from the view of +comfort, but strategic reasons make it necessary, +for if the camp were pitched half a mile further +up the valley, the gorge of the stream which +debouches into the Ammo River to the north of +Chumbi would give the Tibetans an opportunity +of attacking us in the rear. Despite the protection +of almost Arctic clothing, one shivers until +the sun rises over the eastern hill at ten o'clock, +and shivers again when it sinks behind the opposite +one at three. Icy winds sweep the valley, +and hurricanes of dust invade one's tent. Against +this cold one clothes one's self in flannel vest and +shirt, sweater, flannel-lined coat, poshteen or +Cashmere sheepskin, wool-lined Gilgit boots, and +fur or woollen cap with flaps meeting under the +chin. The general effect is barbaric and picturesque. +In after-days the trimness of a military +club may recall the scene—officers clad in gold-embroidered +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_33">[Pg 33]</a></span> +poshteen, yellow boots, and fur caps, +bearded like wild Kerghizes, and huddling round +the camp fire in this black cauldron-like valley +under the stars.</p> + +<p>Officers are settling down in Chumbi as comfortably +as possible for winter quarters. Primitive +dens have been dug out of the ground, walled +up with boulders, and roofed in with green fir-branches. +In some cases a natural rock affords +a whole wall. The den where I am now writing +is warmed by a cheerful pinewood blaze, a luxury +after the <i>angeiti</i> in one's tent. I write at an +operating-table after a dinner of minal (pheasant) +and yak's heart. A gramophone is dinning in +my ears. It is destined, I hope, to resound in +the palace of Potala, where the Dalai Lama and +his suite may wonder what heathen ritual is +accompanied by 'A jovial monk am I,' and 'Her +golden hair was hanging down her back.'</p> + +<p>Both at home and in India one hears the Tibet +Mission spoken of enviously as a picnic. There +is an idea of an encampment in a smiling valley, +and easy marches towards the mysterious city. +In reality, there is plenty of hard and uninteresting +work. The expedition is attended with all +the discomforts of a campaign, and very little of +the excitement. Colonel Younghusband is now +at Tuna, a desolate hamlet on the Tibetan plateau, +exposed to the coldest winds of Asia, where the +thermometer falls to 25° below zero. Detachments +of the escort are scattered along the line +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_34">[Pg 34]</a></span> +of communications in places of varying cold and +discomfort, where they must wait until the necessary +supplies have been carried through to Phari. +It is not likely that Colonel Younghusband will +be able to proceed to Gyantse before March. In +the meanwhile, imagine the Pioneers and Gurkhas, +too cold to wash or shave, shivering in a dirty +Tibetan fort, half suffocated with smoke from a +yak-dung fire. Then there is the transport officer +shut up in some narrow valley of Sikkim, trying +to make half a dozen out of three with his camp +of sick beasts and sheaf of urgent telegrams calling +for supplies. He hopes there will be 'a show,' +and that he may be in it. Certainly if anyone +deserves to go to Lhasa and get a medal for it, +it is the supply and transport man. But he will +be left behind.</p> +</div> + +<div class="chapter" id="chapter_3"> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_35">[Pg 35]</a></span></p> +<h2><a id="CHAPTER_III"></a><span>CHAPTER III</span> + +<small>THE CHUMBI VALLEY</small></h2> + +<p class="right"><span class="r1"><span class="smcap">Chumbi</span>,</span><br /> +<span class="r2"><i>February, 1904</i>.</span></p> + +<p><span class="smcap">The</span> Chumbi Valley is inhabited by the Tomos, +who are said to be descendants of ancient cross-marriages +between the Bhutanese and Lepchas. +They only intermarry among themselves, and speak +a language which would not be understood in other +parts of Tibet. As no Tibetan proper is allowed +to pass the Yatung barrier, the Tomos have the +monopoly of the carrying trade between Phari and +Kalimpong. They are voluntarily under the protection +of the Tibetans, who treat them liberally, +as the Lamas realize the danger of their geographical +position as a buffer state, and are shrewd +enough to recognise that any ill treatment or +oppression would drive them to seek protection +from the Bhutanese or British.</p> + +<p>The Tomos are merry people, hearty, and good-natured. +They are wonderfully hardy and enduring. +In the coldest winter months, when the +thermometer is 20° below zero, they will camp +out at night in the snow, forming a circle of +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_36">[Pg 36]</a></span> +their loads, and sleep contentedly inside with no +tent or roofing. The women would be comely if +it were not for the cutch that they smear over +their faces. The practice is common to the +Tibetans and Bhutanese, but no satisfactory reason +has been found for it. The Jesuit Father, Johann +Grueber, who visited Tibet in 1661, attributed the +custom to a religious whim:—'The women, out of +a religious whim, never wash, but daub themselves +with a nasty kind of oil, which not only causes +them to stink intolerably, but renders them extremely +ugly and deformed.' A hundred and +eighty years afterwards Huc noticed the same +habit, and attributed it to an edict issued by the +Dalai Lama early in the seventeenth century. +'The women of Tibet in those days were much +given to dress, and libertinage, and corrupted the +Lamas to a degree to bring their holy order into a +bad repute.' The then Nome Khan (deputy of the +Dalai Lama), accordingly issued an order that the +women should never appear in public without +smearing their faces with a black disfiguring paste. +Huc recorded that though the order was still +obeyed, the practice was observed without much +benefit to morals. If you ask a Tomo or Tibetan +to-day why their women smear and daub themselves +in this unbecoming manner, they invariably +reply, like the Mussulman or Hindu, that it is +custom. Mongolians do not bother themselves +about causes.</p> + +<p>The Tomo women wear a flat green distinctive +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_37">[Pg 37]</a></span> +cap, with a red badge in the front, which harmonizes +with their complexion—a coarse, brick red, of which +the primal ingredients are dirt and cutch, erroneously +called pig's blood, and the natural ruddiness +of a healthy outdoor life in a cold climate. +A procession of these sirens is comely and picturesque—at +a hundred yards. They wrap themselves +round and round with a thick woollen +blanket of pleasing colour and pattern, and wear +on their feet high woollen boots with leather or +rope soles. If it was not for their disfiguring toilet +many of them would be handsome. The children +are generally pretty, and I have seen one or two +that were really beautiful. When we left a camp +the villagers would generally get wind of it, and +come down for loot. Old newspapers, tins, bottles, +string, and cardboard boxes were treasured prizes. +We threw these out of our cave, and the children +scrambled for them, and even the women made +dives at anything particularly tempting. My last +impression of Lingmathang was a group of women +giggling and gesticulating over the fashion plates +and advertisements in a number of the <i>Lady</i>, which +somebody's <i>memsahib</i> had used for the packing of +a ham.</p> + +<p>The Tomos, though not naturally given to cleanliness, +realize the hygienic value of their hot springs. +There are resorts in the neighbourhood of Chumbi +as fashionable as Homburg or Salsomaggiore; +mixed bathing is the rule, without costumes. +These healthy folk are not morbidly conscious of +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_38">[Pg 38]</a></span> +sex. The springs contain sulphur and iron, and +are undoubtedly efficacious. Where they are not +hot enough, the Tomos bake large boulders in the +ashes of a log fire, and roll them into the water to +increase the temperature.</p> + +<p>Tomos and Tibetans are fond of smoking. They +dry the leaves of the wild rhubarb, and mix them +with tobacco leaves. The mixture is called <i>dopta</i>, +and was the favourite blend of the country. +Now hundreds of thousands of cheap American +cigarettes are being introduced, and a lucrative +tobacco-trade has sprung up. Boxes of ten, which +are sold at a pice in Darjeeling, fetch an anna at +Chumbi, and two annas at Phari. Sahibs smoke +them, sepoys smoke them, drivers and followers +smoke them, and the Tomo coolies smoke nothing +else. Tibetan children of three appreciate them +hugely, and the road from Phari to Rungpo is literally +strewn with the empty boxes.</p> + +<p>There is a considerable Chinese element in the +Chumbi Valley—a frontier officer, with the local +rank of the Fourth Button, a colonel, clerks of the +Customs House, and troops numbering from one +to two hundred. These, of course, were not in +evidence when we occupied the valley in December. +The Chinese are not accompanied by their wives, +but take to themselves women of the country, +whose offspring people the so-called Chinese +villages. The pure Chinaman does not remain in +the country after his term of office. Life at +Chumbi is the most tedious exile to him, and he +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_39">[Pg 39]</a></span> +looks down on the Tomos as barbarous savages. +He is as unhappy as a Frenchman in Tonquin, cut +off from all the diversions of social and intellectual +life. The frontier officer at Bibi-thang told me +that he had brought his wife with him, and the +poor lady had never left the house, but cried incessantly +for China and civilization. Yet to the uninitiated +the Chinese villages of Gob-sorg and Bibi-thang +might have been taken from the far East +and plumped down on the Indian frontier. There +is the same far-Eastern smell, the same doss-house, +the same hanging lamps, the same red lucky paper +over the lintels of the doors, and the same red and +green abortions on the walls.</p> + +<p>Much has been written and duly contradicted +about the fertility of the Chumbi Valley. If one +does not expect orange-groves and rice-fields at +12,000 feet, it must be admitted that the valley +is, relatively speaking, fertile—that is to say, its +produce is sufficient to support its three or four +thousand inhabitants.</p> + +<p>The lower valley produces buckwheat, turnips, +potatoes, radishes, and barley. The latter, the +staple food of the Tibetans, has, when ground, an +appetizing smell very like oatmeal. The upper +valley is quite sterile, and produces nothing but +barley, which does not ripen; it is gathered for +fodder when green, and the straw is sold at high +prices to the merchants who visit Phari from Tibet +and Bhutan. This year the Tibetan merchants are +afraid to come, and the commissariat benefits by a +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_40">[Pg 40]</a></span> +very large supply of fodder which ought to see them +through the summer.</p> + +<p>The idea that the valley is unusually fertile +probably arose from the well-to-do appearance of +the natives of Rinchengong and Chumbi, and their +almost palatial houses, which give evidence of a +prosperity due to trade rather than agriculture.</p> + +<p>The hillsides around Chumbi produce wild strawberries, +raspberries, currants, and cherries; but these +are quite insipid in this sunless climate.</p> + +<p>The Chinese Custom's officer at Yatung tells +me that the summer months, though not hot, are +relaxing and enervating. The thermometer never +rises above 70°. The rainfall does not average +quite 50 inches; but almost daily at noon a mist +creeps up from Bhutan, and a constant drizzle falls. +In June, July, and August, 1901, there were only +three days without rain.</p> + +<p>At Phari I met a venerable old gentleman who +gave me some statistics. The old man, Katsak +Kasi by name, was a Tibetan from the Kham +province, acting at Phari as trade agent for the +Bhutanese Government. His face was seared and +parchment-like from long exposure to cold winds +and rough weather. His features were comparatively +aquiline—that is to say, they did not look +as if they had been flattened out in youth. He +wore a very large pair of green spectacles, with a +gold bulb at each end and a red tassel in the +middle, which gave him an air of wisdom and distinction. +He answered my rather inquisitive +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_41">[Pg 41/42]</a></span> +questions with courtesy and decision, and yet with +such a serious care for details that I felt quite sure +his figures must be accurate.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<a id="p041"></a><a href="images/p041.jpg"> +<img src="images/p041s.jpg" alt="Page 41." title="" /></a> +<span class="caption"><br />Rock Sculpturers.</span> +</div> + +<p>If statistics were any gauge of the benefits Indian +trade would derive from an open market with Tibet, +the present mission, as far as commercial interests +are concerned, would be wasted. According to +Kasi's statistics, the cost of two dozen or thirty +mules would balance the whole of the annual +revenue on Indian imports into the country. The +idea that duties are levied at the Yatung and Gob-sorg +barriers is a mistake. The only Customs +House is at Phari, where the Indian and Bhutanese +trade-routes meet. The Customs are under the +supervision of the two jongpens, who send the +revenue to Lhasa twice a year.</p> + +<p>The annual income on imports from India, Kasi +assured me, is only 6,000 rupees, whereas the income +on exports amounts to 20,000. Tibetan +trade with India consists almost entirely of wool, +yaks'-tails, and ponies. There is a tax of 2 rupees +8 annas on ponies, 1 rupee a maund on wool, and +1 rupee 8 annas a maund on yaks'-tails. Our imports +into Tibet, according to Kasi's statistics, are +practically nil. Some piece goods, iron vessels, and +tobacco leaves find their way over the Jelap, but +it is a common sight to see mules returning into +Tibet with nothing but their drivers' cooking +utensils and warm clothing.<a id="FNanchor_9_9"></a><a href="#Footnote_9_9" class="fnanchor">[9]</a></p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_43">[Pg 43]</a></span></p> + +<p>At present no Indian tea passes Yatung. That +none is sold at Phari confirms the rumour I mentioned +that the Chinese Amban, after signing the +trade regulations between India and Tibet in Darjeeling, +1893, crossed the frontier to introduce new +laws, virtually annulling the regulations. Indian +tea might be carried into Tibet, but not sold there. +Tibet has consistently broken all her promises and +treaty obligations. She has placed every obstacle +in the way of Indian trade, and insulted our Commissioners; +yet the despatch of the present mission +with its armed escort has been called an act of +aggression.</p> + +<p>When I asked Kasi if the Tibetans would be +angry with him for helping us, he said they would +certainly cut off his head if he remained in the fort +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_44">[Pg 44]</a></span> +after we had left. There is some foundation in +travellers' stories about the punishment inflicted on +the guards of the passes and other officials who fail +to prevent Europeans entering Tibet or pushing on +towards Lhasa.</p> + +<p>Some Chumbi traders who were in Lhasa when +we entered the valley are still detained there, as far +as I can gather, as hostages for the good behaviour +of their neighbours. In Tibet the punishment does +not fit the crime. The guards of a pass are punished +for letting white men through, quite irrespective of +the opposing odds.</p> + +<p>The commonest punishment in Tibet is flogging, +but the ordeal is so severe that it often proves fatal. +I asked Kasi some questions about the magisterial +powers of the two jongpens, or district officers, who +remained in the fort some days after we occupied +it. He told me that they could not pass capital +sentence, but they might flog the prisoners, and if +they died, nothing was said. Several victims have +died of flogging at Phari.</p> + +<p>The natives in Darjeeling have a story of +Tibetan methods, which have always seemed to me +the refinement of cruelty. At Gyantse, they say, +the criminal is flung into a dark pit, where he +cannot tell whether it is night or day. Cobras and +scorpions and reptiles of various degrees of venom +are his companions; these he may hear in the darkness, +for it is still enough, and seek or avoid as he +has courage. Food is sometimes thrown in to +tempt any faint-hearted wretch to prolong his +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_45">[Pg 45]</a></span> +agony. I asked Kasi if there were any truth in +the tale. He told me that there were no venomous +snakes in Tibet, but he had heard that there was a +dark prison in Gyantse, where criminals sometimes +died of scorpion bites; he added that only the +worst offenders were punished in this way. The +modified version of the story is gruesome enough.</p> + +<p>It is usual for Tibetan and Bhutanese officials +to receive their pay in grain, it being understood +that their position puts them in the way of obtaining +the other necessaries of life, and perhaps a few +of its luxuries. Kasi, being an important official, +receives from the Bhutan Government forty maunds +of barley and forty maunds of rice annually. He +receives, in addition, a commission on the trade +disputes that he decides in proportion to their importance. +He is now an invaluable servant of the +British Government. At his nod the barren solitudes +round Phari are wakening into life. From +the fort bastions one sees sometimes on the hills +opposite an indistinct black line, like a caterpillar +gradually assuming shape. They are Kasi's yaks +coming from some blind valley which no one but a +hunter or mountaineer would have imagined to +exist. Ponies, grain, and fodder are also imported +from Bhutan and sold to the mutual gratification +of the Bhutanese and ourselves. The yaks are +hired and employed on the line of communications.</p> + +<p>It is to be hoped that the Bhutanese, when they +hear of our good prices, will send supplies over the +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_46">[Pg 46]</a></span> +frontier to hasten our advance. But we must take +care than no harm befalls Kasi for his good <ins class="corr" title="services,">services.</ins> +When I asked him how he stood with the Tibetan +Government, he laid his hand in a significant +manner across his throat.</p> + +<p class="right"><span class="r1"><span class="smcap">LINGMATHANG</span>,</span><br /> +<span class="r2"><i>February</i>.</span></p> + +<p>Before entering the bare, unsheltered plateau +of Tibet, the road to Lhasa winds through seven +miles of pine forest, which recalls some of the most +beautiful valleys of Switzerland.</p> + +<p>The wood-line ends abruptly. After that there +is nothing but barrenness and desolation. The +country round Chumbi is not very thickly forested. +There are long strips of arable land on each side of +the road, and villages every two or three miles. +The fields are terraced and enclosed within stone +walls. Scattered on the hillside are stone-built +houses, with low, over-hanging eaves, and long +wooden tiles, each weighed down with a gray +boulder. One might imagine one's self in Kandersteg +or Lauterbrunnen; only lofty praying flags +and <i>mani</i>-walls brightly painted with Buddhistic +pictures and inscriptions dispel the illusion.</p> + +<p>There is no lack of colour. In the winter months +a brier with large red berries and a low, foxy-brown +thornbush, like a young osier in March, lend +a russet hue to the landscape. Higher on the hills +the withered grass is yellow, and the blending of +these quiet tints, russet, brown, and yellow, gives +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_47">[Pg 47]</a></span> +the valley a restful beauty; but in cloud it is +sombre enough.</p> + +<p>Three years ago I visited Yatung in May. In +springtime there is a profusion of colour. The +valley is beautiful, beyond the beauty of the +grandest Alpine scenery, carpeted underfoot with +spring flowers, and ablaze overhead with flowering +rhododendrons. To try to describe mountains and +forests is a most unprofitable task; all the adjectives +of scenic description are exhausted; the +coinage has been too long debased. For my own +part, it has been almost a pain to visit the most +beautiful parts of the earth and to know that one's +sensations are incommunicable, that it is impossible +to make people believe and understand. To those +who have not seen, scenery is either good, bad, +or indifferent; there are no degrees. Ruskin, the +greatest master of description, is most entertaining +when he is telling us about the domestic circle at +Herne Hill. But mountain scenery is of all the +most difficult to describe. The sense of the +Himalayas is intangible. There are elusive lights +and shades, and sounds and whispers, and unfamiliar +scents, and a thousand fleeting manifestations +of the genius of the place that are impossible +to arrest. Magnificent, majestic, splendid, are +weak, colourless words that depict nothing. It is +the poets who have described what they have not +seen who have been most successful. Milton's +hell is as real as any landscape of Byron's, and the +country through which Childe Roland rode to +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_48">[Pg 48]</a></span> +the Dark Tower is more vivid and present to us +than any of Wordsworth's Westmoreland tarns +and valleys. So it is a poem of the imagination—'Kubla +Khan'—that seems to me to breathe something +of the spirit of the Yatung and Chumbi +Valleys, only there is a little less of mystery and +gloom here, and a little more of sunshine and +brightness than in the dream poem. Instead of +attempting to describe the valley—Paradise would +be easier to describe—I will try to explain as +logically as possible why it fascinated me more +than any scenery I have seen.</p> + +<p>I had often wondered if there were any place +in the East where flowers grow in the same profusion +as in Europe—in England, or in Switzerland. +The nearest approach I had seen was in the +plateau of the Southern Shan States, at about +4,000 feet, where the flora is very homelike. But +the ground is not <i>carpeted</i>; one could tread without +crushing a blossom. Flowers are plentiful, too, +on the southern slopes of the Himalayas, and on +the hills on the Siamese side of the Tennasserim +frontier, but I had seen nothing like a field of +marsh-marigolds and cuckoo-flowers in May, or +a meadow of buttercups and daisies, or a bank of +primroses, or a wood carpeted with bluebells, or a +hillside with heather, or an Alpine slope with +gentians and ranunculus. I had been told that +in Persia in springtime the valleys of the Shapur +River and the Karun are covered profusely with +lilies, also the forests of Manchuria in the neighbourhood +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_49">[Pg 49]</a></span> +of the Great White Mountain; but until +I crossed the Jelapla and struck down the valley +to Yatung I thought I would have to go West +to see such things again. Never was such profusion. +Besides the primulas<a id="FNanchor_10_10"></a><a href="#Footnote_10_10" class="fnanchor">[10]</a>—I counted eight +different kinds of them—and gentians and anemones +and celandines and wood sorrel and wild strawberries +and irises, there were the rhododendrons +glowing like coals through the pine forest. As one +descended the scenery became more fascinating; +the valley narrowed, and the stream was more +boisterous. Often the cliffs hung sheer over the +water's edge; the rocks were coated with green +and yellow moss, which formed a bed for the dwarf +rhododendron bushes, now in full flower, white and +crimson and cream, and every hue between a dark +reddish brown and a light sulphury yellow—not +here and there, but everywhere, jostling one +another for nooks and crannies in the rock.<a id="FNanchor_11_11"></a><a href="#Footnote_11_11" class="fnanchor">[11]</a></p> + +<p>These delicate flowers are very different from +their dowdy cousin, the coarse red rhododendron +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_50">[Pg 50]</a></span> +of the English shrubbery. At a little distance +they resemble more hothouse azaleas, and equal +them in wealth of blossom.</p> + +<p>The great moss-grown rocks in the bed of the +stream were covered with equal profusion. Looking +behind, the snows crowned the pine-trees, and +over them rested the blue sky. And here is the +second reason—as I am determined to be logical +in my preference—why I found the valley so +fascinating. In contrasting the Himalayas with +the Alps, there is always something that the +former is without. Never the snows, and the +water, and the greenery at the same time; if +the greenery is at your feet, the snows are far +distant; where the Himalayas gain in grandeur +they lose in beauty. So I thought the wild valley +of Lauterbrunnen, lying at the foot of the Jungfrau, +the perfection of Alpine scenery until I saw the +valley of Yatung, a pine-clad mountain glen, +green as a hawthorn hedge in May, as brilliantly +variegated as a beechwood copse in autumn, and +culminating in the snowy peak that overhangs the +Jelapla. The valley has besides an intangible +fascination, indescribable because it is illogical. +Certainly the light that played upon all these +colours seemed to me softer than everyday sunshine; +and the opening spring foliage of larch and +birch and mountain ash seemed more delicate and +varied than on common ground. Perhaps it was +that I was approaching the forbidden land. But +what irony, that this seductive valley should be +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_51">[Pg 51]</a></span> +the approach to the most bare and unsheltered +country in Asia!</p> + +<p>Even now, in February, I can detect a few +salmon-coloured leaf-buds, which remind me that +the month of May will be a revelation to the +mission force, when their veins are quickened by +the unfamiliar warmth, and their eyes dazzled by +this unexpected treasure which is now germinating +in the brown earth.</p> + +<p>Four miles beyond Chumbi the road passes +through the second military wall at the Chinese +village of Gob-sorg. Riding through the quiet +gateway beneath the grim, hideous figure of the +goddess Dolma carved on the rock above, one +feels a silent menace. One is part of more than a +material invasion; one has passed the gate that has +been closed against the profane for centuries; one +has committed an irretrievable step. Goddess and +barrier are symbols of Tibet's spiritual and material +agencies of opposition. We have challenged and +defied both. We have entered the arena now, and +are to be drawn into the vortex of all that is most +sacred and hidden, to struggle there with an implacable +foe, who is protected by the elemental +forces of nature.</p> + +<p>Inside the wall, above the road, stands the +Chinese village of Gob-sorg. The Chinamen come +out of their houses and stand on the revetment to +watch us pass. They are as quiet and ugly as their +gods. They gaze down on our convoys and modern +contrivances with a silent contempt that implies a +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_52">[Pg 52]</a></span> +consciousness of immemorial superiority. Who can +tell what they think or what they wish, these undivinable +creatures? They love money, we know, +and they love something else that we cannot know. +It is not country, or race, or religion, but an inscrutable +something that may be allied to these +things, that induces a mental obstinacy, an unfathomable +reserve which may conceal a wisdom +beyond our philosophy or mere callousness and +indifference. The thing is there, though it has no +European name or definition. It has caused many +curious and unexplained outbreaks in different +parts of the world, and it is no doubt symbolized +in their inexpressibly hideous flag. The element +is non-conductive, and receives no current from +progress, and it is therefore incommunicable to us +who are wrapped in the pride of evolution. The +question here and elsewhere is whether the Chinese +love money more or this inscrutable dragon element. +If it is money, their masks must have concealed a +satisfaction at the prospect of the increased trade +that follows our flag; if the dragon element, a +grim hope that we might be cut off in the wilderness +and annihilated by Asiatic hordes.</p> + +<p>Unlike the Chinese, the Tomos are unaffectedly +glad to see us in the valley. The humblest peasant +is the richer by our presence, and the landowners +and traders are more prosperous than they have +been for many years. Their uncompromising reception +of us makes a withdrawal from the Chumbi +Valley impossible, for the Tibetans would punish +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_53">[Pg 53]</a></span> +them relentlessly for the assistance they have given +their enemies.</p> + +<p>A mile beyond Gob-sorg is the Tibetan village of +Galing-ka, where the praying-flags are as thick as +masts in a dockyard, and streams of paper prayers +are hung across the valley to prevent the entrance +of evil spirits. Chubby little children run out and +salute one with a cry of 'Backsheesh!' the first +alien word in their infant vocabulary.</p> + +<p>A mile further a sudden turn in the valley +brings one to a level plain—a phenomenally flat +piece of ground where one can race two miles along +the straight. No one passes it without remarking +that it is the best site for a hill-station in Northern +India. Where else can one find a racecourse, polo-ground, +fishing, and shooting, and a rainfall that +is little more than a third of that of Darjeeling? +Three hundred feet above the stream on the west +bank is a plateau, apparently intended for building +sites. The plain in the valley was naturally designed +for the training of mounted infantry, and is +now, probably for the first time, being turned to +its proper use.</p> + +<p class="right"><span class="r1"><span class="smcap">Lingmathang</span>,</span><br /> +<span class="r2"><i>March 18</i>.</span></p> + +<p>I have left the discomforts of Phari, and am +camping now on the Lingmathang Plain. I am +writing in a natural cave in the rock. The opening +is walled in by a sangar of stones 5 feet high, +from which pine-branches support a projecting +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_54">[Pg 54]</a></span> +roof. On fine days the space between the roof +and wall is left open, and called the window; but +when it snows, gunny-bags are let down as purdahs, +and the den becomes very warm and comfortable. +There is a natural hearth, a natural chimney-piece, +and a natural chimney that draws excellently. The +place is sheltered by high cliffs, and it is very +pleasant to look out from this snugness on a wintry +landscape, and ground covered deep with snow.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<a id="fp054-1"></a><a href="images/fp054-1.jpg"> +<img src="images/fp054-1s.jpg" alt="" title="" /></a> +<span class="caption"><br />Praying-flags and Mani Wall.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<a id="fp054-2"></a><a href="images/fp054-2.jpg"> +<img src="images/fp054-2s.jpg" alt="" title="" /></a> +<span class="caption"><br />Officers' Tents, Mounted Infantry Camp, Lingmathang.</span> +</div> + +<p>Outside, seventy shaggy Tibetan ponies, rough +and unshod, averaging 12·2 hands, are tethered +under the shelter of a rocky cliff. They are being +trained according to the most approved methods of +modern warfare. The Mounted Infantry Corps, +mostly volunteers from the 23rd and 32nd Pioneers +and 8th Gurkhas, are under the command of +Captain Ottley of the 23rd. The corps was raised +at Gnatong in December, and though many of +the men had not ridden before, after two months' +training they cut a very respectable figure in the +saddle. A few years ago a proposal was made to +the military authorities that the Pioneers, like other +regiments, should go in for a course of mounted +infantry training. The reply caused much amusement +at the time. The suggestion was not adopted, +but orders were issued that 'every available opportunity +should be taken of teaching the Pioneers to +ride in carts.' A wag in the force naturally suggests +that the new Ekka Corps, now running +between Phari and Tuna, should be utilized to +carry out the spirit of this order. Certainly on the +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_55">[Pg 55]</a></span> +road beyond the Tangla the ekkas would require +some sitting.</p> + +<p>The present mission is the third 'show' on which +the 23rd and 32nd have been together during the +last nine years. In Chitral and Waziristan they +fought side by side. It is no exaggeration to say +that these regiments have been on active service +three years out of five since they were raised in +1857. The original draft of the 32nd, it will be +remembered, was the unarmed volunteer corps of +Mazbi Sikhs, who offered themselves as an escort +to the convoy from Lahore to Delhi during the +siege. The Mazbis were the most lawless and +refractory folk in the Punjab, and had long been +the despair of Government. On arrival at Delhi +they were employed in the trenches, rushing in to +fill up the places of the killed and wounded as fast +as they fell. It will be remembered that they +formed the fatigue party who carried the powder-bags +to blow up the Cashmere Gate. A hundred +and fifty-seven of them were killed during the +siege. With this brilliant opening it is no wonder +that they have been on active service almost continually +since.</p> + +<p>A frontier campaign would be incomplete without +the 32nd or 23rd. It was the 32nd who +cut their way through 5 feet of snow, and +carried the battery guns to the relief of Chitral. +The 23rd Pioneers were also raised from the Mazbi +Sikhs in the same year of the Mutiny, 1857. The +history of the two regiments is very similar. The +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_56">[Pg 56]</a></span> +23rd distinguished themselves in China, Abyssinia, +Afghanistan, and numerous frontier campaigns. +One of the most brilliant exploits was when, with +the Gordon Highlanders under Major (now Sir +George) White, they captured the Afghan guns at +Kandahar. To-day the men of the two regiments +meet again as members of the same corps on the +Lingmathang Plain. Naturally the most cordial +relations exist between the men, and one can hear +them discussing old campaigns as they sit round +their pinewood fires in the evenings. They and +the twenty men of the 8th Gurkhas (of Manipur +fame) turn out together every morning for exercise +on their diminutive steeds. They ride without +saddle or stirrups, and though they have only been +horsemen for two months, they seldom fall off at +the jumps. The other day, when a Mazbi Sikh +took a voluntary into the hedge, a genial Gurkha +reminded him of the eccentric order 'to practise +riding in carts.'</p> + +<p>At Lingmathang we have had a fair amount of +sport of a desultory kind. The neighbouring forests +are the home of that very rare and little-known +animal, the shao, or Sikkim stag. The first animal +of the species to fall to a European gun was shot +by Major Wallace Dunlop on the Lingmathang +Hills in January. A month later Captain Ottley +wounded a buck which he was not able to follow +up on account of a heavy fall of snow. Lately one +or two shao—does in all cases—have come down to +visit the plain. While we were breakfasting on the +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_57">[Pg 57]</a></span> +morning of the 16th, we heard a great deal of +shouting and halloaing, and a Gurkha jemadar ran +up to tell us that a female shao, pursued by village +dogs, had broken through the jungle on the hillside +and emerged on the plain a hundred yards +from our camp. We mounted at once, and Ottley +deployed the mounted infantry, who were ready +for parade, to head the beast from the hills. The +shao jinked like a hare, and crossed and recrossed +the stream several times, but the poor beast was +exhausted, and, after twenty minutes' exciting +chase, we surrounded it. Captain Ottley threw +himself on the animal's neck and held it down +until a sepoy arrived with ropes to bind its hind-legs. +The chase was certainly a unique incident in +the history of sport—a field of seventy in the +Himalayas, a clear spurt in the open, no dogs, and +the quarry the rarest zoological specimen in the +world. The beast stood nearly 14 hands, and was +remarkable for its long ears and elongated jaw. +The sequel was sad. Besides the fright and +exhaustion, the captured shao sustained an injury +in the loin; it pined, barely nibbled at its food, +and, after ten days, died.</p> + +<p>Sikkim stags are sometimes shot by native +shikaris, and there is great rivalry among members +of the mission force in buying their heads. They +are shy, inaccessible beasts, and they are not met +with beyond the wood limit.</p> + +<p>The shooting in the Chumbi Valley is interesting +to anyone fond of natural history, though it is a +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_58">[Pg 58]</a></span> +little disappointing from the sportsman's point of +view. When officers go out for a day's shooting, +they think they have done well if they bring home +a brace of pheasants. When the sappers and miners +began to work on the road below Gautsa, the blood-pheasants +used to come down to the stream to watch +the operations, but now one sees very few game-birds +in the valley. The minal is occasionally shot. +The cock-bird, as all sportsmen know, is, with the +exception of the Argus-eye, the most beautiful +pheasant in the world. There is a lamasery in +the neighbourhood, where the birds are almost +tame. The monks who feed them think that they +are inhabited by the spirits of the blest. Where +the snow melts in the pine-forests and leaves soft +patches and moist earth, you will find the blood-pheasant. +When you disturb them they will run +up the hillside and call vociferously from their +new hiding-place, so that you may get another +shot. Pheasant-shooting here is not sport; the +birds seldom rise, and when they do it is almost +impossible to get a shot at them in the thick +jungle. One must shoot them running for the +pot. Ten or a dozen is not a bad bag for one +gun later in the year, when more snow has fallen.</p> + +<p>At a distance the blood-pheasant appears a dowdy +bird. The hen is quite insignificant, but, on a closer +acquaintance, the cock shows a delicate colour-scheme +of mauve, pink, and green, which is quite +different from the plumage of any other bird I +have seen. The skins fetch a good price at home, +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_59">[Pg 59]</a></span> +as fishermen find them useful for making flies. A +sportsman who has shot in the Yatung Valley +regularly for four years tells me that the cock-bird +of this species is very much more numerous than +the hen. Another Chumbi pheasant is the tracopan, +a smaller bird than the minal, and very beautifully +marked. I have not heard of a tracopan being shot +this season; the bird is not at all common anywhere +on this side of the Himalayas.</p> + +<p>Snow-partridge sometimes come down to the +Lingmathang hills; in the adjacent Kongbu Valley +they are plentiful. These birds are gregarious, and +are found among the large, loose boulders on the +hill-tops. In appearance they are a cross between +the British grouse and the red-legged partridge, +having red feet and legs uncovered with feathers, +and a red bill and chocolate breast. The feathers +of the back and rump are white, with broad, +defined bars of rich black.</p> + +<p>Another common bird is the snow-pigeon. Large +flocks of them may be seen circling about the +valley anywhere between Phari and Chumbi. +Sometimes, when we are sitting in our cave after +dinner, we hear the tweek of solitary snipe flying +overhead, but we have never flushed any. Every +morning before breakfast I stroll along the river +bank with a gun, and often put up a stray duck. +I have frequently seen goosanders on the river, +but not more than two or three in a party. They +never leave the Himalayas. The only migratory +duck I have observed are the common teal and +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_60">[Pg 60]</a></span> +Brahminy or ruddy sheldrake, and these only in +pairs. The latter, though despised on the plains, +are quite edible up here. I discredit the statement +that they feed on carrion, as I have never seen one +near the carcasses of the dead transport animals +that are only too plentiful in the valley just now. +After comparing notes with other sportsmen, I +conclude that the Ammo Chu Valley is not a +regular route for migratory duck. The odd teal +that I shot in February were probably loiterers +that were not strong enough to join in the flight +southwards.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<a id="fp060"></a><a href="images/fp060.jpg"> +<img src="images/fp060s.jpg" alt="" title="" /></a> +<span class="caption"><br />Subadar Sangat Singh, 1st Mounted Infantry.</span> +</div> + +<p>Near Lingmathang I shot the ibis bill (<i>Ibidorhynchus +Struthersi</i>), a bird which is allied to the +oyster catchers. This was the first Central Asian +species I met.</p> + +<p class="right"><span class="r1"><span class="smcap">Gautsa</span>,</span><br /> +<span class="r2"><i>February</i>.</span></p> + +<p>Gautsa, which lies five miles north of Lingmathang, +nearly half-way between Chumbi and +Phari, must be added to the map. A week or two +ago the place was deserted and unnamed; it did +not boast a single cowherd's hut. Now it is a busy +camp, and likely to be a permanent halting-place +on the road to Phari. The camp lies in a deep, +moss-carpeted hollow, with no apparent egress. +On three sides it is flanked by rocky cliffs, densely +forested with pine and silver birch; on the fourth +rises an abrupt wall of rock, which is suffused with +a glow of amber light an hour before sunset. The +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_61">[Pg 61]</a></span> +Ammo Chu, which is here nothing but a 20-foot +stream frozen over at night, bisects the camp. +The valley is warm and sheltered, and escapes +much of the bitter wind that never spares Chumbi. +After dinner one prefers the open-air and a camp +fire. Officers who have been up the line before +turn into their tents regretfully, for they know that +they are saying good-bye to comfort, and will not +enjoy the genial warmth of a good fire again until +they have crossed the bleak Tibetan tablelands and +reached the sparsely-wooded Valley of Gyantse.</p> +</div> + +<div class="chapter" id="chapter_4"> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_62">[Pg 62]</a></span></p> +<h2><a id="CHAPTER_IV"></a><span>CHAPTER IV</span> + +<small>PHARI JONG</small></h2> + +<p class="right"><span class="r2"><i>February</i> 15.</span></p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Icy</span> winds and suffocating smoke are not conducive +to a literary style, though they sometimes +inspire a rude eloquence that is quite unfit for +publication. As I write we are huddling over the +mess-room brazier—our youngest optimist would +not call it a fire. Men drop in now and then from +fatigue duty, and utter an incisive phrase that +expresses the general feeling, while we who write +for an enlightened public must sacrifice force for +euphemism. A week at Phari dispels all illusions; +only a bargee could adequately describe the place. +Yet the elements, which 'feelingly persuade us' +what we are, sometimes inspire us with the +eloquence of discomfort.</p> + +<p>At Gautsa the air was scented with the fragrance +of warm pine-trees, and there was no indication of +winter save the ice on the Ammo Chu. The +torrent roared boisterously beneath its frozen surface, +and threw up little tentacles of frozen spray, +which glistened fantastically in the sun. Three +miles further up the stream the wood-belt ends +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_63">[Pg 63]</a></span> +abruptly; then, after another three miles, one +passes the last stunted bush; after that there is +nothing but brown earth and yellow withered +grass.</p> + +<p>Five miles above Gautsa is Dotah, the most +cheerless camp on the march. The wind blows +through the gorge unceasingly, and penetrates to +the bone. On the left bank of the stream is the +frozen waterfall, which might be worshipped by +the fanciful and superstitious as embodying the +genius of the place, hard and resistless, a crystallized +monument of the implacable spirit of Nature +in these high places.</p> + +<p>At Kamparab, where we camped, two miles higher +up the stream, the thermometer fell to 14° below +zero. Close by is the meeting-place of the sources +of the Ammo Chu. All the plain is undermined +with the warrens of the long-haired marmots and +voles, who sit on their thresholds like a thousand +little spies, and curiously watch our approach, then +dive down into their burrows to tell their wives of +the strange bearded invaders. They are the despair +of their rivals, the sappers and miners, who are +trying to make a level road for the new light +ekkas. One envies them their warmth and snugness +as one rides against the bitter penetrating +winds.</p> + +<p>Twelve miles from Gautsa a turn in the valley +brings one into view of Phari Jong. At first sight +it might be a huge isolated rock, but as one +approaches the bastions and battlements become +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_64">[Pg 64]</a></span> +more distinct. Distances are deceptive in this +rarefied air, and objects that one imagines to be +quite close are sometimes found to be several miles +distant.</p> + +<p>The fort is built on a natural mound in the +plain. It is a huge rambling building six stories +high, surrounded by a courtyard, where mules and +ponies are stabled. As a military fortification +Phari Jong is by no means contemptible. The +walls are of massive stonework which would take +heavy guns to demolish. The angles are protected +from attacking parties by machicolated galleries, and +three enormous bastions project from each flank. +These are crumbling in places, and the Pioneers +might destroy the bastion and breach the wall with +a bag or two of guncotton. On the eastern side +there is a square courtyard like an Arab caravanserai, +where cattle are penned. The fortress would +hold the whole Tibetan army, with provisions for a +year. It was evacuated the night before we reconnoitred +the valley.</p> + +<p>The interior of the Jong is a warren of stairs, +landings, and dark cavernous rooms, which would +take a whole day to explore. The walls are built +of stone and mud, and coated with century-old +smoke. There are no chimneys or adequate +windows, and the filth is indescribable. When +Phari was first occupied, eighty coolies were +employed a whole week clearing away refuse. +Judging by the accretion of dirt, a new-comer +might class the building as medieval; but filth is +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_65">[Pg 65]</a></span> +no criterion of age, for everything left in the same +place becomes quickly coated with grime an inch +thick. The dust that invades one's tent at Chumbi +is clean and wholesome compared to the Phari dirt, +which is the filth of human habitation, the secretion +of centuries of foul living. It falls from the roof on +one's head, sticks to one's clothes as one brushes +against the wall, and is blown up into one's eyes +and throat from the floor.</p> + +<p>The fort is most insanitary, but a military occupation +is necessary. The hacking coughs which +are prevalent among officers and men are due to +impurities of the air which affect the lungs. Cartloads +of dirt are being scraped away every day, but +gusts of wind from the lower stories blow up more +dust, which penetrates every nook and cranny of +the draughty rooms, so that there is a fresh layer +by nightfall. To clear the lower stories and cellars +would be a hopeless task; even now rooms are +found in unexpected places which emit clouds of +dust whenever the wind eddies round the basement.</p> + +<p>I explored the ground-floor with a lantern, and +was completely lost in the maze of passages and +dark chambers. When we first occupied the fort, +they were filled with straw, gunpowder, and old +arms. A hundred and forty maunds of inferior +gunpowder was destroyed, and the arms now litter +the courtyard. These the Tibetans themselves +abandoned as rubbish. The rusty helmets, shields, +and breastplates are made of the thinnest iron +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_66">[Pg 66]</a></span> +plates interlaced with leathern thongs, and would +not stop an arrow. The old bell-mouthed matchlocks, +with their wooden ground-rests, would be +more dangerous to the Tibetan marksmen than the +enemy. The slings and bows and arrows are +reckoned obsolete even by these primitive warriors. +Perhaps they attribute more efficacy to the praying-wheels +which one encounters at every corner +of the fort. The largest are in niches in the wall +to left and right of the gateway; rows of smaller +ones are attached to the banisters on the landings +and to the battlements of the roof. The wheels are +covered with grime—the grime of Lamas' hands. +Dirt and religion are inseparable in Tibet. The +Lamas themselves are the most filthy and malodorous +folk I have met in the country. From +this it must not be inferred that one class is more +cleanly in its habits than another, for nobody ever +thinks of washing. Soap is not included in the list +of sundries that pass the Customs House at +Yatung. If the Lamas are dirtier than the yak-herds +and itinerant merchants it is because they +lead an indoor life, whereas the pastoral folk are +continually exposed to the purifying winds of the +tablelands, which are the nearest equivalent in +Tibet to a cold bath.</p> + +<p>I once read of a Tibetan saint, one of the pupils +of Naropa, who was credited with a hundred +miraculous gifts, one of which was that he could +dive into the water like a fish. Wherein the +miracle lay had often puzzled me, but when I met +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_67">[Pg 67]</a></span> +the Lamas of the Kanjut Gompa I understood at +once that it was the holy man's contact with the water.</p> + +<p>Phari is eloquent of piety, as it is understood in +Tibet. The better rooms are frescoed with +Buddhistic paintings, and on the third floor is a +library, now used as a hospital, where xylograph +editions of the Lamaist scriptures and lives of the +saints are pigeon-holed in lockers in the wall. The +books are printed on thin oblong sheets of Chinese +paper, enclosed in boards, and illuminated with +quaint coloured tailpieces of holy men in devotional +attitudes. Phari fort, with its casual blending +of East and West, is full of incongruous effects, +but the oddest and most pathetic incongruity is the +chorten on the roof, from which, amidst praying-flags +and pious offerings of coloured raiment, +flutters the Union Jack.</p> + +<p class="right"><span class="r2"><i>February</i> 18.</span></p> + +<p>The troops are so busy making roads that they +have very little time for amusements. The +8th Gurkhas have already constructed some eight +miles of road on each side of Phari for the ekka +transport. Companies of the 23rd Pioneers are +repairing the road at Dotah, Chumbi, and Rinchengong. +The 32nd are working at Rinchengong, +and the sappers and miners on the Nathula and +at Gautsa.</p> + +<p>We have started football, and the Gurkhas have +a very good idea of the game. One loses one's +wind completely at this elevation after every spurt +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_68">[Pg 68]</a></span> +of twenty yards, but recovers it again in a wonderfully +short time. Other amusements are sliding +and tobogganing, which are a little disappointing +to enthusiasts. The ice is lumpy and broken, and +the streamlets that run down to the plain are so tortuous +that fifty yards without a spill is considered +a good run for a toboggan. The funniest sight is to +see the Gurkha soldiers trying to drag the toboggan +uphill, slipping and tumbling and sprawling on the +ice, and immensely enjoying one another's discomfiture.</p> + +<p>To clear the dust from one's throat and shake +off the depression caused by weeks of waiting in +the same place, there is nothing like a day's shooting +or exploring in the neighbourhood of Phari. +I get up sometimes before daybreak, and spend the +whole day reconnoitring with a small party of +mounted infantry. Yesterday we crossed a pass +which looked down into the Kongbu Valley—a +likely camping-ground for the Tibetan troops. +The valley is connected to the north with the +Tuna plateau, and is almost as fertile in its lower +stretches as Chumbi. A gray fortress hangs over +the cliff on the western side of the valley, and +above it tower the glaciers of Shudu-Tsenpa and +the Gora Pass into Sikkim. On the eastern side, +at a creditable distance from the fort, we could +see the Kongbu nunnery, which looked from where +we stood like an old Roman viaduct. The nuns, +I was told, are rarely celibate; they shave the +head and wear no ornaments. +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_69">[Pg 69]</a></span></p> + +<p>Riding back we saw some burrhel on the opposite +hills, too far off to make a successful stalk possible. +The valley is full of them, and a week later some +officers from Phari on a yak-collecting expedition +got several good heads. The Tibetan gazelle, +or goa (<i>Gazella hirticaudata</i>), is very common +on the Phari plateau, and we bagged two that afternoon. +When the force first occupied the Jong, +they were so tame that a sportsman could walk up +to within 100 yards of a herd, and it was not +an uncommon thing for three buck to fall to the +same gun in a morning. Now one has to manœuvre +a great deal to get within 300 yards of them.</p> + +<p>Sportsmen who have travelled in other parts of +Tibet say the goa are very shy and inaccessible. +Perhaps their comparative tameness near Phari +may be accounted for by the fact that the old trade +route crosses the plateau, and they have never been +molested by the itinerant merchants and carriers. +Gazelle meat is excellent. It has been a great +resource for the garrison. No epicure could wish +for anything better.</p> + +<p>Another unfamiliar beast that one meets in the +neighbourhood of Phari is the kyang, or Tibetan +wild ass (<i>Equus hemionus</i>), one or two of which +have been shot for specimens. The kyang is more +like a zebra than a horse or donkey. Its flesh, I +believe, is scorned even by camp-followers. Hare +are fairly plentiful, but they are quite flavourless. +A huge solitary gray wolf (<i>Canis laniger</i>) was shot +the other day, the only one of its kind I have +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_70">[Pg 70]</a></span> +seen. Occasionally one puts up a fox. The Tibetan +species has a very fine brush that fetches a fancy +price in the bazaar. At present there is too much +ice on the plain to hunt them, but they ought to +give good sport in the spring.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<a id="fp070-1"></a><a href="images/fp070-1.jpg"> +<img src="images/fp070-1s.jpg" alt="" title="" /></a> +<span class="caption"><br />Wounded Kyang.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<a id="fp070-2"></a><a href="images/fp070-2.jpg"> +<img src="images/fp070-2s.jpg" alt="" title="" /></a> +<span class="caption"><br />Goa, or Tibetan Gazelle.</span> +</div> + +<p>It was dark when we rode into the Jong. After +a long day in the saddle, dinner is good, even +though it is of yak's flesh, and it is good to sit in +front of a fire even though the smoke chokes you. +I went so far as to pity the cave-dwellers at Chumbi. +Phari is certainly very much colder, but it has its +diversions and interests. There is still some shooting +to be had, and the place has a quaint old-world +individuality of its own, which seasons the monotony +of life to a contemplative man. One is on the +borderland, and one has a Micawber-like feeling that +something may turn up. After dinner there is +bridge, which fleets the time considerably, but at +Chumbi there were no diversions of any kind—nothing +but dull, blank, uninterrupted monotony.</p> + +<p class="right"><span class="r2"><i>February</i> 20.</span></p> + +<p>For two days half a blizzard has been blowing, +and expeditions have been impossible. Everything +one eats and drinks has the same taste of argol +smoke. At breakfast this morning we had to put +our <i>chapatties</i> in our pockets to keep them clean, +and kept our meat covered with a soup-plate, +making surreptitious dives at it with a fork. After +a few seconds' exposure it was covered with grime. +Sausages and bully beef, which had just been +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_71">[Pg 71]</a></span> +boiled, were found to be frozen inside. The smoke +in the mess-room was suffocating. So to bed, +wrapped in sheepskins and a sleeping-bag. Under +these depressing conditions I have been reading +the narratives of Bogle and Manning, old English +worthies who have left on record the most vivid +impressions of the dirt and cold and misery of +Phari.</p> + +<p>It is ninety years since Thomas Manning passed +through Phari on his way to Lhasa. Previously +to his visit we only know of two Englishmen who +have set foot in Phari—Bogle in 1774, and Turner +in 1783, both emissaries of Warren Hastings. +Manning's journal is mostly taken up with complaints +of his Chinese servant, who seems to have +gained some mysterious ascendancy over him, and +to have exercised it most unhandsomely. As a +traveller Manning had a genius for missing effects; +it is characteristic of him that he spent sixteen days +at Phari, yet except for a casual footnote, evidently +inserted in his journal after his return, he makes no +mention of the Jong. Were it not for Bogle's +account of thirty years before, we might conclude +that the building was not then in existence.</p> + +<p>On October 21, 1811, Manning writes in his +diary: 'We arrived at Phari Jong. Frost. Frost +also two days before. I was lodged in a strange +place, but so were the natives.' On the 27th +he summarized his impressions of Phari:—'Dirt, +dirt, grease, smoke, misery, but good mutton.'</p> + +<p>Manning's journal is expressive, if monosyllabic. +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_72">[Pg 72]</a></span> +He was of the class of subjective travellers, who +visit the ends of the earth to record their own +personal discomforts. Sensitive, neurotic, ever on +the look-out for slights, he could not have been a +happy vagabond. A dozen lines record the impressions +of his first week at Phari. He was cheated; +he was treated civilly; he slighted the magistrates, +mistaking them for idle fellows; he was turned out +of his room to make way for Chinese soldiers; he +quarrelled with his servant. A single extract +portrays the man to the life, as if he were sitting +dejectedly by his yak-dung fire at this hour brooding +over his wrongs:—</p> + +<p>"The Chinaman was cross again." Says I, +"Was that a bird at the magistrate's that flapped +so loud?" Answer: "What signifies whether it +was a bird or not?" Where he sat I thought he +might see; and I was curious to know if such large +birds frequented the <i>building</i>. These are the +answers I get. He is always discontented and +grumbling, and takes no trouble off my hands. +Being younger, and, like all Asiatics, able to stoop +and crouch without pain or difficulty, he might +assist me in many things without trouble to himself. +A younger brother or any English young +gentleman would in his place of course lay the +cloth, and do other little services when I am tired; +but he does not seem to have much of the generous +about him, nor does he in any way serve me, or +behave to me with any show of affection or goodwill: +consequently I grow no more attached to +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_73">[Pg 73]</a></span> +him than the first day I saw him. I could not have +thought it possible for me to have lived so long +with anyone without either disliking him or caring +sixpence for him. He has good qualities, too. The +strangeness of his situation may partly excuse him. +(I am more attached to my guide, with all his +faults, who has been with me but a few days.) +My guide has behaved so damnably ill since I +wrote that, that I wish it had not come into my +mind.'</p> + +<p>I give the extract at length, not only as an +illuminating portrait of Manning, but as an incidental +proof that he visited the Jong, and that it was +very much the same building then as it is to-day. +But had it not been for the flapping of the bird +which occasioned the quarrel with his Chinese +servant, Manning would have left Phari without a +reference to the wonderful old fortress which is the +most romantic feature on the road from India to +Gyantse. Appended to the journal is this footnote +to the word <i>building</i>, which I have italicized in the +extract: 'The building is immensely large, six or +more stories high, a sort of fortress. At a distance +it appears to be all Phari Jong. Indeed, most of +it consists of miserable galleries and holes.'</p> + +<p>Members of the mission force who have visited +Phari will no doubt attribute Manning's evident +ill-humour and depression during his stay there to +the environments of the place, which have not +changed much in the last ninety years. But his +spirits improved as he continued his journey to +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_74">[Pg 74]</a></span> +Gyantse and Lhasa, and he reveals himself the +kindly, eccentric, and affectionate soul who was the +friend and intimate of Charles Lamb.</p> + +<p>Bogle arrived at Phari on October 23, 1774. He +and Turner and Manning all entered Tibet through +Bhutan. 'As we advanced,' he wrote in his +journal, 'we came in sight of the castle of Phari +Jong, which cuts a good figure from without. +It rises into several towers with the balconies, and, +having few windows, has the look of strength; it is +surrounded by the town.' The only other reference +he makes to the Jong shows us that the fortress +was in bad repair so long ago as 1774. 'The two +Lhasa officers who have the government of Phari +Jong sent me some butter, tea, etc., the day after +my arrival; and letting me know that they expected +a visit from me, I went. The inside of the castle +did not answer the notion I had formed of it. The +stairs are ladders worn to the bone, and the rooms +are little better than garrets.'</p> + +<p>The origin of the fort is unknown. Some of the +inhabitants of Phari say that it was built more than +a hundred years ago, when the Nepalese were overrunning +Sikkim. But this is obviously incorrect, +as the Tibetan-Nepalese War, in which the Chinese +drove the Gurkhas out of Tibet, and defeated their +army within a day's march of Khatmandu, took +place in 1788-1792, whereas Bogle's description of +the Jong was written fourteen years earlier. A +more general impression is that centuries ago orders +came from Lhasa to collect stones on the hillsides, +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_75">[Pg 75]</a></span> +and the building was constructed by forced labour +in a few months. That is a tale of endurance and +suffering that might very likely be passed from +father to son for generations.</p> + +<p>Bogle's description of the town might have been +written by an officer of the garrison to-day, only +he wrote from the inmate's point of view. He +noticed the houses 'so huddled together that one +may chance to overlook them,' and the flat roofs +covered with bundles of straw. He knocked his +head against the low ceilings, and ran against the +pillars that supported the beams. 'In the middle +of the roof,' he wrote, 'is a hole to let out smoke, +which, however, departs not without making the +whole room as black as a chimney. The opening +serves also to let in the light; the doors are full of +holes and crevices, through which the women and +children keep peeping.' Needless to say nothing +has changed in the last hundred and thirty years, +unless it is that the women are bolder. I looked +down from the roof this morning on Phari town, +lying like a rabbit-warren beneath the fort. All +one can see from the battlement are the flat roofs +of low black houses, from which smoke issues in +dense fumes. The roofs are stacked with straw, +and connected by a web of coloured praying-flags +running from house to house, and sometimes over +the narrow alleys that serve as streets. Enormous fat +ravens perch on the wall, and innumerable flocks +of twittering sparrows. For warmth's sake most +of the rooms are underground, and in these subterranean +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_76">[Pg 76]</a></span> +dens Tibetans, black as coal-heavers, +huddle together with yaks and mules. Tibetan +women, equally dirty, go about, their faces smeared +and blotched with caoutchouc, wearing a red, hoop-like +head-dress, ornamented with alternate turquoises +and ruby-coloured stones.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<a id="fp076-1"></a><a href="images/fp076-1.jpg"> +<img src="images/fp076-1s.jpg" alt="" title="" /></a> +<span class="caption"><br />The Tang La.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<a id="fp076-2"></a><a href="images/fp076-2.jpg"> +<img src="images/fp076-2s.jpg" alt="" title="" /></a> +<span class="caption"><br />Phari Jong.</span> +</div> + +<p>In the fort the first thing one meets of a morning +is a troop of these grimy sirens, climbing the stairs, +burdened with buckets of chopped ice and sacks of +yak-dung, the two necessaries of life. The Tibetan +coolie women are merry folk; they laugh and +chatter over their work all day long, and do not in +the least resist the familiarities of the Gurkha +soldiers. Sometimes as they pass one they giggle +coyly, and put out the tongue, which is their way +of showing respect to those in high places; but +when one hears their laughter echoing down the +stairs it is difficult to believe that it is not intended +for saucy impudence. Their merriment sounds +unnatural in all this filth and cold and discomfort. +Certainly if Bogle returned to Phari he would find +the women very much bolder, though, I am afraid, +not any cleaner. Could he see the Englishmen in +Phari to-day, he might not recognise his compatriots.</p> + +<p>Often in civilized places I shall think of the +group at Phari in the mess-room after dinner—a +group of ruffianly-looking bandits in a blackened, +smut-begrimed room, clad in wool and fur from +head to foot, bearded like wild men of the woods, +and sitting round a yak-dung fire, drinking rum. +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_77">[Pg 77]</a></span> +After a week at Phari the best-groomed man might +qualify for a caricature of Bill Sikes. Perhaps one +day in Piccadilly one may encounter a half-remembered +face, and something familiar in walk or gait +may reveal an old friend of the Jong. Then in +'Jimmy's,' memories of argol-smoke and frozen +moustaches will give a zest to a bottle of beaune +or chablis, which one had almost forgotten was +once dreamed of among the unattainable luxuries +of life.</p> + +<p class="right"><span class="r2"><i>March 26-28.</i></span></p> + +<p>Orders have come to advance from Phari Jong. +It seems impossible, unnatural, that we are going +on. After a week or two the place becomes part +of one's existence; one feels incarcerated there. +It is difficult to imagine life anywhere else. One +feels as if one could never again be cold or dirty, +or miserably uncomfortable, without thinking of +that gray fortress with its strange unknown +history, standing alone in the desolate plain. For +my own part, speaking figuratively—and unfigurative +language is impotent on an occasion like this—the +place will leave an indelible black streak—very +black indeed—on a kaleidoscopic past. There +can be no faint impressions in one's memories of +Phari Jong. The dirt and smoke and dust are +elemental, and the cold is the cold of the Lamas' +frigid hell.</p> + +<p>All the while I was in Phari I forgot the +mystery of Tibet. I have felt it elsewhere, but +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_78">[Pg 78]</a></span> +in the Jong I only wondered that the inscrutable +folk who had lived in the rooms where we slept, +and fled in the night, were content with their +smut-begrimed walls, blackened ceilings, and +chimneyless roofs, and still more how amidst these +murky environments any spiritual instincts could +survive to inspire the religious frescoings on the +wall. Yet every figure in this intricate blending of +designs is significant and symbolical. One's first +impression is that these allegories and metaphysical +abstractions must have been meaningless to the +inmates of the Jong; for we in Europe cannot +dissociate the artistic expression of religious feeling +from cleanliness and refinement, or at least pious +care. One feels that they must be the relics of a +decayed spirituality, preserved not insincerely, but +in ignorant superstition, like other fetishes all over +the world. Yet this feeling of scepticism is not +so strong after a month or two in Tibet. At first +one is apt to think of these dirty people as merely +animal and sensual, and to attribute their religious +observances to the fear of demons who will +punish the most trivial omission in ritual.</p> + +<p>Next one begins to wonder if they really believe +in the efficacy of mechanical prayer, if they take +the trouble to square their conscience with their +inclinations, and if they have any sincere desire to +be absorbed in the universal spirit. Then there +may come a suspicion that the better classes, +though not given to inquiry, have a settled dogma +and definite convictions about things spiritual and +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_79">[Pg 79]</a></span> +natural that are not easily upset. Perhaps before +we turn our backs on the mystery of Tibet we +will realize that the Lamas despise us as gross +materialists and philistines—we who are always +groping and grasping after the particular, while +they are absorbed in the sublime and universal.</p> + +<p>After all, devious and unscrupulous as their +policy may have been, the Tibetans have had one +definite aim in view for centuries—the preservation +of their Church and State by the exclusion of all +foreign and heretical influences. When we know +that the Mongol cannot conceive of the separation +of the spiritual and temporal Government, it is +only natural to infer that the first mission, spiritual +or otherwise, to a foreign Court should introduce +the first elements of dissolution in a system of +Government that has held the country intact for +centuries. And let it be remarked that Great +Britain is not responsible for this deviation in a +hitherto inveterate policy.</p> + +<p>But to return to Phari. My last impression of +the place as I passed out of its narrow alleys was +a very dirty old man, seated on a heap of yak-dung +over the gutter. He was turning his prayer-wheel, +and muttering the sacred formula that was +to release him from all rebirth in this suffering +world. The wish seemed natural enough.</p> + +<p>It was a bright, clear morning when we turned +our backs on the old fort and started once more +on the road to Lhasa. Five miles from Phari we +passed the miserable little village of Chuggya, +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_80">[Pg 80]</a></span> +which is apparently inhabited by ravens and sparrows, +and a diminutive mountain-finch that looks +like a half-starved robin. A mile to the right +before entering the village is the monastery of +the Red Lamas, which was the lodging-place +of the Bhutanese Envoy during his stay at +Phari. The building, which is a landmark for +miles, is stone-built, and coated over with red +earth, which gives it the appearance of brick. Its +overhanging gables, mullioned windows without +glass, that look like dominoes in the distance, the +pendent bells, and the gay decorations of Chinese +paper, look quaint and mystical, and are in keeping +with the sacred character of the place. Bogle +stopped here on October 27, 1774, and drank tea +with the Abbot. It is very improbable that any +other white man has set foot in the monastery +since, until the other day, when some of the +garrison paid it a visit and took photographs of +the interior. The Lamas were a little deprecatory, +but evidently amused. I did not expect them to +be so tolerant of intrusion, and their clamour for +backsheesh on our departure dispelled one more +illusion.</p> + +<p>At Chuggya we were at the very foot of Chumulari +(23,930 feet), which seems to rise sheer from +the plain. The western flank is an abrupt wall of +rock, but, as far as one can see, the eastern side is +a gradual ascent of snow, which would present no +difficulties to the trained mountaineer. One could +ride up to 17,000 feet, and start the climb from a +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_81">[Pg 81]</a></span> +base 2,000 feet higher than Mont Blanc. Chumulari +is the most sacred mountain in Tibet, and it is +usual for devout Buddhists to stop and offer a +sacrifice as they pass. Bogle gives a detailed +account of the service, the rites of which are very +similar to some I witnessed at Galingka on the +Tibetan New Year, February 16.</p> + +<p>'Here we halted,' he wrote in his journal, 'and +the servants gathering together a parcel of dried +cow-dung, one of them struck fire with his tinder-box +and lighted it. When the fire was well +kindled, Parma took out a book of prayers, one +brought a copper cup, another filled it with a kind +of fermented liquor out of a new-killed sheep's +paunch, mixing in some rice and flour; and after +throwing some dried herbs and flour into the flame, +they began their rites. Parma acted as chaplain. +He chanted the prayers in a loud voice, the others +accompanying him, and every now and then the +little cup was emptied towards the rock, about +eight or ten of these libations being poured forth. +The ceremony was finished by placing upon the +heap of stones the little ensign which my fond +imagination had before offered up to my own +vanity.'</p> + +<p>Most of the flags and banners one sees to-day on +the chortens and roofs of houses, and cairns on the +mountain-tops, must be planted with some such +inaugural ceremony.</p> + +<p>Facing Chumulari on the west, and apparently +only a few miles distant, are the two Sikkim peaks +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_82">[Pg 82]</a></span> +of Powhunri (23,210 feet) and Shudu-Tsenpa +(22,960 feet). From Chuggya the Tangla is +reached by a succession of gradual rises and depressions. +The pass is not impressive, like the +Jelap, as a passage won through a great natural +barrier. One might cross it without noticing the +summit, were it not for the customary cairns and +praying-flags which the Lamas raise in all high +places.</p> + +<p>From a slight rise on the east of the pass one +can look down across the plateau on Tuna, an +irregular black line like a caterpillar, dotted with +white spots, which glasses reveal to be tents. The +Bamtso lake lies shimmering to the east beneath +brown and yellow hills. At noon objects dance +elusively in the mirage. Distances are deceptive. +Yaks grazing are like black Bedouin tents. Here, +then, is the forbidden land. The approach is as it +should be. One's eyes explore the road to Lhasa +dimly through a haze. One would not have it +laid out with the precision of a diagram.</p> +</div> + +<div class="chapter" id="chapter_5"> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_83">[Pg 83]</a></span></p> +<h2><a id="CHAPTER_V"></a><span>CHAPTER V</span> + +<small>THE ROAD AND TRANSPORT</small></h2> + +<p><span class="smcap">To</span> write of any completed phase of the expedition +at this stage, when I have carried my readers +only as far as Tuna, is a lapse in continuity that +requires an apology. My excuse is that to all +transport officers, and everyone who was in touch +with them, the Tuna and Phari plains will be +remembered as the very backbone of resistance, +the most implacable barriers to our advance.</p> + +<p>The expedition was essentially a transport +'show.' It is true that the Tibetans proved +themselves brave enemies, but their acquired +military resources are insignificant when compared +with the obstacles Nature has planted in +the path of their enemies. The difficulty of the +passes, the severity of the climate, the sterility +of the mountains and tablelands, make the interior +of the country almost inaccessible to an +invading army. That we went through these +obstacles and reached Lhasa itself was a matter +of surprise not only to the Tibetans, but to +many members of the expeditionary force.</p> + +<p>To appreciate the difficulties the mission force +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_84">[Pg 84]</a></span> +had to contend with, one must first realize the +extraordinary changes of climate that are experienced +in the journey from Siliguri to Tuna. +Choose the coldest day in the year at Kew Gardens, +expose yourself freely to the wind, and then spend +five minutes in the tropical house, and you may +gather some idea of the sensation of sleeping in +the Rungpo Valley the night after crossing the +Jelapla.</p> + +<p>When I first made the journey in early January, +even the Rungpo Valley was chilly, and the +vicissitudes were not so marked; but I felt the +change very keenly in March, when I made a +hurried rush into Darjeeling for equipment and +supplies. Our camp at Lingmathang was in the +pine-forest at an elevation of 10,500 feet. It was +warm and sunny in the daytime, in places where +there was shelter from the wind. Leaf-buds were +beginning to open, frozen waterfalls to thaw, +migratory duck were coming up the valley in +twos and threes from the plains of India—even a +few vultures had arrived to fatten on the carcasses +of the dead transport animals. The morning after +leaving Lingmathang I left the pine-forest at +13,000 feet, and entered a treeless waste of shale +and rock. When I crossed the Jelapla half a +hurricane was blowing. The path was a sheet +of ice, and I had to use hands and knees, and take +advantage of every protuberance in the rock to +prevent myself from being blown over the <i>khud</i>. +The road was impassable for mules and ponies. +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_85">[Pg 85]</a></span> +The cold was numbing. The next evening, in a +valley 13,000 feet beneath, I was suffering from +the extreme of heat. The change in scenery and +vegetation is equally striking—from glaciers and +moraines to tropical forests brilliant with the +scarlet cotton-flower and purple Baleria. In Tibet +I had not seen an insect of any kind for two +months, but in the Sikkim valleys the most +gorgeous butterflies were abundant, and the rest-house +at Rungpo was invested by a plague of +flies. In the hot weather the climate of the +Sikkim valleys is more trying than that of most +stations in the plains of India. The valleys are +close and shut in, and the heat is intensified by +the radiation from the rocks, cliffs, and boulders. +In the rains the climate is relaxing and malarious. +The Supply and Transport Corps, who were left +behind at stages like Rungpo through the hot +weather, had, to my mind, a much harder time +on the whole than the half-frozen troops at the +front, and they were left out of all the fun.</p> + +<p>Besides the natural difficulties of the road, the +severity of climate, and the scarcity of fodder and +fuel, the Transport Corps had to contend with +every description of disease and misfortune—anthrax, +rinderpest, foot and mouth disease, +aconite and rhododendron poisoning, falling over +precipices, exhaustion from overwork and underfeeding. +The worst fatalities occurred on the +Khamba Jong side in 1903. The experiments +with the transport were singularly unsuccessful. +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_86">[Pg 86]</a></span> +Out of two hundred buffaloes employed at low +elevations, only three survived, and the seven +camels that were tried on the road between Siliguri +and Gantok all died by way of protest. +Later on in the year the yak corps raised in Nepal +was practically exterminated. From four to five +thousand were originally purchased, of which +more than a thousand died from anthrax before +they reached the frontier. All the drinking-water +on the route was infected; the Nepalese +did not believe the disease was contagious, and +took no precautions. The disease spread almost +universally among the cattle, and at the worst +time twenty or thirty died a day. The beasts +were massed on the Nepal frontier. Segregation +camps were formed, and ultimately, after much +patient care, the disease was stamped out.</p> + +<p>Then began the historic march through Sikkim, +which, as a protracted struggle against natural +calamities, might be compared to the retreat of +the Ten Thousand, or the flight of the Kalmuck +Tartars. Superstitious natives might well think +that a curse had fallen on us and our cattle. +As soon as they were immune from anthrax, the +reduced corps were attacked by rinderpest, which +carried off seventy. When the herds left the +Singli-la range and descended into the valley, the +sudden change in climate overwhelmed hundreds. +No real yak survived the heat of the Sikkim +valleys. All that were now left were the zooms, or +halfbreeds from the bull-yaks and the cow, and the +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_87">[Pg 87]</a></span> +cross from the bull and female yaks. In Sikkim, +which is always a hotbed of contagious cattle +diseases, the wretched survivors were infected +with foot and mouth disease. The epidemic is +not often fatal, but visiting an exhausted herd, +fever-stricken, and weakened by every vicissitude +of climate, it carried off scores. Then, to avoid +spreading contagion, the yaks were driven through +trackless, unfrequented country, up and down +precipitous mountain-sides, and through dense +forests. Again segregation camps were formed, +and the dead cattle were burnt, twenty and thirty +at a time. Every day there was a holocaust. +Then followed the ascent into high altitudes, +where a more insidious evil awaited the luckless +corps. The few survivors were exterminated by +pleuro-pneumonia. When, on January 23, the +3rd Yak Corps reached Chumbi, it numbered 437; +two months afterwards all but 70 had died. On +March 21, 80 exhausted beasts straggled into +Chumbi; they were the remainder of the 1st and +2nd Yak Corps, which originally numbered 2,300 +heads. The officers, who, bearded and weather-beaten, +deserted by many of their followers, after +months of wandering, reached our camp with the +remnants of the corps, told a story of hardship +and endurance that would provide a theme for an +epic.</p> + +<p>The epic of the yaks does not comprise the +whole tale of disaster. Rinderpest carried off +77 pack-bullocks out of 500, and a whole corps +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_88">[Pg 88]</a></span> +was segregated for two months with foot and +mouth disease. Amongst other casualties there +were heavy losses among the Cashmere pony +corps, and the Tibet pony corps raised locally. +The animals were hastily mobilized and incompletely +equipped, overworked and underfed. +Cheap and inferior saddlery was issued, which +gave the animals sore backs within a week. +The transport officer was in a constant dilemma. +He had to overwork his animals or delay the +provisions, fodder, and warm clothing so urgently +needed at the front. Ponies and mules had no +rest, but worked till they dropped. Of the +original draft of mules that were employed +on the line to Khamba Jong, fully 50 per +cent. died. It is no good trying to blink the +fact that the expedition was unpopular, and +that at the start many economical shifts were +attempted which proved much more expensive +in the end. Our party system is to blame. The +Opposition must be appeased, expenses kept down, +and the business is entered into half-heartedly. +In the usual case a few companies are grudgingly +sent to the front, and then, when something like +a disaster falls or threatens, John Bull jumps at +the sting, scenting a national insult. A brigade +follows, and Government wakes to the necessity +of grappling with the situation seriously.</p> + +<p>But to return to the spot where the evil effects +of the system were felt, and not merely girded at. +To replace and supplement the local drafts of +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_89">[Pg 89]</a></span> +animals that were dying, trained Government +mule corps were sent up from the plains, properly +equipped and under experienced officers. These +did excellent work, and 2,600 mules arrived in +Lhasa on August 3 in as good condition as one +could wish. Of all transport animals, the mule is +the hardiest and most enduring. He does not +complain when he is overloaded, but will go on +all day, and when he drops there is no doubt that +he has had enough. Nine times out of ten when +he gives up he dies. No beast is more indifferent +to extremes of heat and cold. On the road from +Kamparab to Phari one day, three mules fell over +a cliff into a snowdrift, and were almost totally +submerged. Their drivers could not pull them +out, and, to solve the dilemma, went on and reported +them dead. The next day an officer found +them and extricated them alive. They had been +exposed to 46° of frost. They still survive.</p> + +<p>Nothing can beat the Sircar mule when he is in +good condition, unless it is the Balti and Ladaki +coolie. Several hundred of these hardy mountaineers +were imported from the North-West +frontier to work on the most dangerous and difficult +sections of the road. They can bear cold and +fatigue and exposure better than any transport +animal on the line, and they are surer-footed. +Mules were first employed over the Jelap, but were +afterwards abandoned for coolies. The Baltis are +excellent workers at high altitudes, and sing +cheerily as they toil up the mountains with their +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_90">[Pg 90]</a></span> +loads. I have seen them throw down their packs +when they reached the summit of a pass, make a +rush for the shelter of a rock, and cheer lustily +like school-boys. But the coolies were not all +equally satisfactory. Those indented from the +Nepal durbar were practically an impressed gang. +Twelve rupees a month with rations and warm +clothing did not seem to reconcile them to hard +work, and after a month or two they became discontented +and refractory. Their officers, however, +were men of tact and decision, and they +were able to prevent what might have been a +serious mutiny. The discontented ones were +gradually replaced by Baltis, Ladakis, and Garwhalis, +and the coolies became the most reliable +transport corps on the line.</p> + +<p>Thus, the whole menagerie, to use the expression +current at the time, was got into working order, +and a system was gradually developed by which +the right animal, man, or conveyance was working +in the right place, and supplies were sent through +at a pace that was very creditable considering the +country traversed.</p> + +<p>From the railway base at Siliguri to Gantok, a +distance of sixty miles, the ascent in the road is +scarcely perceptible. With the exception of a few +contractors' ponies, the entire carrying along this +section of the line was worked by bullock-carts. +Government carts are built to carry 11 maunds +(880 pounds), but contractors often load theirs +with 15 or 16 maunds. As the carrying power +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_91">[Pg 91]</a></span> +of mules, ponies, and pack-bullocks is only +2 maunds, it will be seen at once that transport +in a mountainous country, where there can be no +road for vehicles, is nearly five times as difficult +and complicated as in the plains. And this is +without making any allowance for the inevitable +mortality among transport animals at high elevations, +or taking into account the inevitable congestion +on mountain-paths, often blocked by +snow, carried away by the rains, and always too +narrow to admit of any large volume of traffic.</p> + +<p>In the beginning of March, when the line was +in its best working order, from 1,500 to 2,000 +maunds were poured into Rungpo daily. Of +these, only 400 or 500 maunds reached Phari; the +rest was stored at Gantok or consumed on the +road. Later, when the line was extended to +Gyantse, not more than 100 maunds a day reached +the front.</p> + +<p>In the first advance on Gyantse, our column +was practically launched into the unknown. As +far as we knew, no local food or forage could be +obtained. It was too early in the season for the +spring pasturage. We could not live on the +country. The ever-lengthening line of communication +behind us was an artery, the severing of +which would be fatal to our advance.</p> + +<p>One can best realize the difficulties grappled +with by imagining the extreme case of an army +entering an entirely desert country. A mule, it +must be remembered, can only carry its own food +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_92">[Pg 92]</a></span> +for ten days. That is to say, in a country where +there is no grain or fodder, a convoy can make +at the most nine marches. On the ninth day +beasts and drivers will have consumed all the +supplies taken with them. Supposing on the +tenth day no supply-base has been reached, the +convoy is stranded, and can neither advance nor +retire. Nor must we forget that our imaginary +convoy, which has perished in the desert, has contributed +nothing to the advance of the army. +Food and clothing for the troops, tents, bedding, +guns, ammunition, field-hospital, treasury, still +await transport at the base.</p> + +<p>Fortunately, the country between our frontier +and Lhasa is not all desert. Yet it is barren +enough to make it a matter of wonder that, with +such short preparation, we were able to push +through troops to Gyantse in April, when there +was no grazing on the road, and to arrive in +Lhasa in August with a force of more than 4,000 +fighting men and followers.</p> + +<p>Before the second advance to Gyantse the +spring crops had begun to appear. Without them +we could not have advanced. All other local +produce on the road was exhausted. That is to +say, for 160 miles, with the important exception +of wayside fodder, we subsisted entirely on our +own supplies. The mules carried their own grain, +and no more. Gyantse once reached, the Tibetan +Government granaries and stores from the monasteries +produced enough to carry us on. But +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_93">[Pg 93]</a></span> +besides the transport mules, there were 100 +Maxim and battery mules, as well as some 200 +mounted infantry ponies, and at least 100 officers' +mounts, to be fed, and these carried nothing—contributed +nothing to the stomach of the army.</p> + +<p>How were these beasts to be fed, and how was +the whole apparatus of an army to be carried +along, when every additional transport animal was +a tax on the resources of the transport? There +were two possible solutions, each at first sight +equally absurd and impracticable:—wheeled transport +in Tibet, or animals that did not require +feeding. The Supply and Transport men were +resourceful and fortunate enough to provide both. +It was due to the light ekka and that providentially +ascetic beast, the yak, that we were able to reach +Lhasa.</p> + +<p>The ekkas were constructed in the plains, and +carried by coolies from the cart-road at Rungpo +eighty miles over the snow passes to Kamparab +on the Phari Plain. The carrying capacity of +these light carts is 400 pounds, two and a half +times that of a mule, and there is only one mouth +to feed. They were the first vehicles ever seen +in Tibet, and they saved the situation.</p> + +<p>The ekkas worked over the Phari and Tuna +plains, and down the Nyang Chu Valley as far as +Kangma. They were supplemented by the yaks.</p> + +<p>The yak is the most extraordinary animal +Nature has provided the transport officer in his +need. He carries 160 pounds, and consumes +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_94">[Pg 94]</a></span> +nothing. He subsists solely on stray blades of +grass, tamarisk, and tufts of lichen, that he picks +up on the road. He moves slowly, and wears a +look of ineffable resignation. He is the most +melancholy disillusioned beast I have seen, and +dies on the slightest provocation. The red and +white tassels and favours of cowrie-shells the +Tibetans hang about his neck are as incongruous +on the poor beast as gauds and frippery on the +heroine of a tragedy.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<a id="fp094-1"></a><a href="images/fp094-1.jpg"> +<img src="images/fp094-1s.jpg" alt="" title="" /></a> +<span class="caption"><br />Mounted Infantry Ponies, Tuna Camp.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<a id="fp094-2"></a><a href="images/fp094-2.jpg"> +<img src="images/fp094-2s.jpg" alt="" title="" /></a> +<span class="caption"><br />Yak in Ekka.</span> +</div> + +<p>If only he were dependable, our transport difficulties +would be reduced to a minimum. But he +is not. We have seen how the four thousand died +in their passage across Sikkim without doing a +day's work. Local drafts did better. Yet I have +often passed the Lieutenant in command of the +corps lamenting their lack of grit. 'Two more of +my cows died this morning. Look, there goes +another! D—n the beasts! I believe they do +it out of spite!' And the chief Supply and Transport +officer, always a humorist in adversity, +when asked why they were dying off every day, +said: 'I think it must be due to overfeeding.' +But we owe much to the yak.</p> + +<p>The final advance from Gyantse to Lhasa was +a comparatively easy matter. Crops were plentiful, +and large supplies of grain were obtained from +the monasteries and jongs on the road. We +found, contrary to anticipation, that the produce +in this part of Tibet was much greater than the +consumption. In many places we found stores +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_95">[Pg 95]</a></span> +that would last a village three or four years. Our +transport animals lived on the country. We +arrived at Lhasa with 2,600 mules and 400 coolies. +The yak and donkey corps were left at the river +for convoy work. It would have been impossible +to have pushed through in the winter.</p> + +<p>All the produce we consumed on the road was +paid for. In this way the expense of the army's +keep fell on the Lhasa Government, who had to +pay the indemnity, and our presence in the country +was not directly, at any rate, a burden on the +agricultural population of the villages through +which we passed.</p> + +<p>Looking back on the splendid work accomplished +by the transport, it is difficult to select any special +phase more memorable than another. The complete +success of the organization and the endurance +and grit displayed by officers and men are equally +admirable. I could cite the coolness of a single +officer in a mob of armed and mutinous coolies, +when the compelling will of one man and a few +blows straight from the shoulder kept the discontented +harnessed to their work and quelled +a revolt; or the case of another who drove his +diseased yaks over the snow passes into Chumbi, +and after two days' rest started with a fresh corps +on ten months of the most tedious labour the +mind of man can imagine, rising every day before +daybreak in an almost Arctic cold, traversing the +same featureless tablelands, and camping out at +night cheerfully in the open plain with his escort +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_96">[Pg 96]</a></span> +of thirty rifles. There was always the chance of +a night attack, but no other excitement to break +the eternal monotony. But it was all in the day's +work, and the subaltern took it like a picnic. +Another supreme test of endurance in man and +beast were the convoys between Chumbi and +Tuna in the early part of the year, which for +hardships endured remind me of Skobeleff's dash +through the Balkans on Adrianople. Only our +labours were protracted, Skobeleff's the struggle +of a few days. Even in mid-March a convoy of +the 12th Mule Corps, escorted by two companies +of the 23rd Pioneers, were overtaken by a blizzard +on their march between Phari and Tuna, and +camped in two feet of snow with the thermometer +18° below zero. A driving hurricane made it impossible +to light a fire or cook food. The officers +were reduced to frozen bully beef and neat spirits, +while the sepoys went without food for thirty-six +hours. The fodder for the mules was buried +deep in snow. The frozen flakes blowing through +the tents cut like a knife. While the detachment +was crossing a stream, the mules fell through the +ice, and were only extricated with great difficulty. +The drivers arrived at Tuna frozen to the waist. +Twenty men of the 12th Mule Corps were frostbitten, +and thirty men of the 23rd Pioneers were +so incapacitated that they had to be carried in on +mules. On the same day there were seventy cases +of snow-blindness among the 8th Gurkhas.</p> + +<p>Until late in April all the plain was intersected +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_97">[Pg 97]</a></span> +by frozen streams. Blankets were stripped from +the mules to make a pathway for them over the +ice. Often they went without water at night, and +at mid-day, when the surface of the ice was +melted, their thirst was so great that many died +from overdrinking.</p> + +<p>Had the Tibetans attacked us in January, they +would have taken us at a great disadvantage. +The bolts of our rifles jammed with frozen oil. +Oil froze in the Maxims, and threw them out of +gear. More often than not the mounted infantry +found the butts of their rifles frozen in the buckets, +and had to dismount and use both hands to extricate +them.</p> + +<p>I think these men who took the convoys through +to Tuna; the 23rd, who wintered there and supplied +most of the escort; and the 8th Gurkhas, who cut +a road in the frost-bound plain, may be said to +have broken the back of the resistance to our +advance. They were the pioneers, and the troops +who followed in spring and summer little realized +what they owed to them.</p> + +<p>The great difficulties we experienced in pushing +through supplies to Tuna, which is less than 150 +miles from our base railway-station at Siliguri, +show the absurdity of the idea of a Russian +advance on Lhasa. The nearest Russian outpost +is over 1,000 miles distant, and the country +to be traversed is even more barren and inhospitable +than on our frontier.</p> + +<p>Up to the present the route to Chumbi has been +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_98">[Pg 98]</a></span> +viâ Siliguri and the Jelap and Nathu Passes, but +the natural outlet of the valley is by the Ammo +Chu, which flows through Bhutan into the Dooars, +where it becomes the Torsa. The Bengal-Dooars +Railway now extends to Madhari Hat, fifteen miles +from the point where the Torsa crosses the frontier, +whence it is only forty-eight miles as the crow flies +to Rinchengong in the Chumbi Valley. When the +projected Ammo Chu cart-road is completed, all +the difficulty of carrying stores into Chumbi will +be obviated. Engineers are already engaged on +the first trace, and the road will be in working +order within a few months. It avoids all snow +passes, and nowhere reaches an elevation of more +than 9,000 feet. The direct route will shorten +the journey to Chumbi by several days, bring +Lhasa within a month's journey of Calcutta, and +considerably improve trade facilities between +Tibet and India.</p> +</div> + +<div class="chapter" id="chapter_6"> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_99">[Pg 99]</a></span></p> +<h2><a id="CHAPTER_VI"></a><span>CHAPTER VI</span> + +<small>THE ACTION AT THE HOT SPRINGS</small></h2> + +<p><span class="smcap">The</span> village of Tuna, which lies at the foot of bare +yellow hills, consists of a few deserted houses. +The place is used mainly as a halting-stage by +the Tibetans. The country around is sterile and +unproductive, and wood is a luxury that must be +carried from a distance of nearly fifty miles.</p> + +<p>It was in these dismal surroundings that Colonel +Younghusband's mission spent the months of +January, February, and March. The small garrison +suffered all the discomforts of Phari. The +dirt and grime of the squalid little houses became +so depressing that they pitched their tents in an +open courtyard, preferring the numbing cold to the +filth of the Tibetan hovels. Many of the sepoys +fell victims to frost-bite and pneumonia, and nearly +every case of pneumonia proved fatal, the patient +dying of suffocation owing to the rarefied air.</p> + +<p>Colonel Younghusband had not been at Tuna +many days before it became clear that there could +be no hope of a peaceful solution. The Tibetans +began to gather in large numbers at Guru, eight +miles to the east, on the road to Lhasa. The +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_100">[Pg 100]</a></span> +Depon, or Lhasa General, whom Colonel Younghusband +met on two occasions, repeated that he +was only empowered to treat on condition that +we withdrew to Yatung. Messages were sent +from the Tibetan camp to Tuna almost daily +asking us to retire, and negociations again came +to a deadlock. After a month the tone of the +Tibetans became minatory. They threatened to +invest our camp, and an attack was expected +on March 1, the Tibetan New Year. The Lamas, +however, thought better of it. They held a Commination +Service instead, and cursed us solemnly +for five days, hoping, no doubt, that the British +force would dwindle away by the act of God. +Nobody was 'one penny the worse.'</p> + +<p>Though we made no progress with the Tibetans +during this time, Colonel Younghusband utilized +the halt at Tuna in cementing a friendship with +Bhutan. The neutrality of the Bhutanese in the +case of a war with Tibet was a matter of the +utmost importance. Were these people unfriendly +or disposed to throw in their lot with their co-religionists, +the Tibetans, our line of communications +would be exposed to a flank attack along the +whole of the Tuna Plain, which is conterminous +with the Bhutan frontier, as well as a rear attack +anywhere in the Chumbi Valley as far south as +Rinchengong. The Bhutanese are men of splendid +physique, brave, warlike, and given to pillage. +Their hostility would have involved the despatch +of a second force, as large as that sent to Tibet, +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_101">[Pg 101]</a></span> +and might have landed us, if unprepared, in a +serious reverse. The complete success of Colonel +Younghusband's diplomacy was a great relief to +the Indian Government, who were waiting with +some anxiety to see what attitude the Bhutanese +would adopt. Having secured from them assurances +of their good will, Colonel Younghusband +put their friendship to immediate test by broaching +the subject of the Ammo Chu route to Chumbi +through Bhutanese territory. Very little time +was lost before the concession was obtained from +the Tongsa Penlop, ruler of Bhutan, who himself +accompanied the mission as far as Lhasa in the +character of mediator between the Dalai Lama +and the British Government. The importance +of the Ammo Chu route in our future relations +with Tibet I have emphasized elsewhere.</p> + +<p>I doubt if ever an advance was more welcome +to waiting troops than that which led to the +engagement at the Hot Springs.</p> + +<p>For months, let it be remembered, we had been +marking time. When a move had to be made to +escort a convoy, it was along narrow mountain-paths, +where the troops had to march in single +file. There was no possibility of an attack this +side of Phari. The ground covered was familiar +and monotonous. One felt cooped in, and was +thoroughly bored and tired of the delay, so that +when General Macdonald marched out of Phari +with his little army in three columns, a feeling of +exhilaration communicated itself to the troops. +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_102">[Pg 102]</a></span></p> + +<p>Here was elbow-room at last, and an open +plain, where all the army corps of Europe might +manœuvre. At Tuna, on the evening of the 29th, +it was given out in orders that a reconnaissance +in force was to be made the next morning, and +two companies of the 32nd Pioneers would be left +at Guru. The Tibetan camp at the Hot Springs +lay right across our line of march, and the hill that +flanked it was lined with their sangars. They must +either fight or retire. Most of us thought that +the Tibetans would fade away in the mysterious +manner they have, and build another futile wall +further on. The extraordinary affair that followed +must be a unique event in military history.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<a id="fp102"></a><a href="images/fp102.jpg"> +<img src="images/fp102s.jpg" alt="" title="" /></a> +<span class="caption"><br />The Depon's Last Conference with Colonel Younghusband.</span> +</div> + +<p>The morning of the 30th was bitterly cold. An +icy wind was blowing, and snow was lying on the +ground. I put on my thick sheepskin for the +first time for two months, and I owe my life to it.</p> + +<p>About an hour after leaving Tuna, two or three +Tibetan messengers rode out from their camp to +interview Colonel Younghusband. They got down +from their ponies and began chattering in a very +excited manner, like a flock of frightened parrots. +It was evident to us, not understanding the language, +that they were entreating us to go back, +and the constant reference to Yatung told us that +they were repeating the message that had been +sent into the Tuna camp almost daily during the +past few months—that if we retired to Yatung +the Dalai Lama would send an accredited envoy +to treat with us. Being met with the usual +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_103">[Pg 103]</a></span> +answer, they mounted dejectedly and rode off +at a gallop to their camp.</p> + +<p>Soon after they had disappeared another group +of horsemen were seen riding towards us. These +proved to be the Lhasa Depon, accompanied by +an influential Lama and a small escort armed with +modern rifles. The rifles were naturally inspected +with great interest. They were of different +patterns—Martini-Henri, Lee-Metford, Snider—but +the clumsily-painted stocks alone were enough +to show that they were shoddy weapons of native +manufacture. They left no mark on our troops.</p> + +<p>According to Tibetan custom, a rug was spread +on the ground for the interview between Colonel +Younghusband and the Lhasa Depon, who +conferred sitting down. Captain O'Connor, the +secretary of the mission, interpreted. The Lhasa +Depon repeated the entreaty of the messengers, +and said that there would be trouble if we proceeded. +Colonel Younghusband's reply was terse +and to the point.</p> + +<p>'Tell him,' he said to Captain O'Connor, 'that +we have been negociating with Tibet for fifteen +years; that I myself have been waiting for eight +months to meet responsible representatives from +Lhasa, and that the mission is now going on to +Gyantse. Tell him that we have no wish to fight, +and that he would be well advised if he ordered +his soldiers to retire. Should they remain blocking +our path, I will ask General Macdonald to +remove them.' +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_104">[Pg 104]</a></span></p> + +<p>The Lhasa Depon was greatly perturbed. He +said that he had no wish to fight, and would try +and stop his men firing upon us. But before he +left he again tried to induce Colonel Younghusband +to turn back. Then he rode away to join his +men. What orders he gave them will never be +known.</p> + +<p>I do not think the Tibetans ever believed in our +serious intention to advance. No doubt they +attributed our evacuation of Khamba Jong and +our long delay in Chumbi to weakness and vacillation. +And our forbearance since the negociations +of 1890 must have lent itself to the same interpretation.</p> + +<p>As we advanced we could see the Tibetans running +up the hill to the left to occupy the sangars. +To turn their position, General Macdonald deployed +the 8th Gurkhas to the crest of the ridge; +at the same time the Pioneers, the Maxim detachment +of the Norfolks, and Mountain Battery +were deployed on the right until the Tibetan +position was surrounded.</p> + +<p>The manœuvre was completely successful. The +Tibetans on the hill, finding themselves outflanked +by the Gurkhas, ran down to the cover of the wall +by the main camp, and the whole mob was encircled +by our troops.</p> + +<p>It was on this occasion that the Sikhs and +Gurkhas displayed that coolness and discipline +which won them a European reputation. They +had orders not to fire unless they were fired upon, +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_105">[Pg 105]</a></span> +and they walked right up to the walls of the sangars +until the muzzles and prongs of the Tibetan matchlocks +were almost touching their chests. The +Tibetans stared at our men for a moment across +the wall, and then turned and shambled down +sulkily to join their comrades in the redan.</p> + +<p>No one dreamed of the sanguinary action +that was impending. I dismounted, and hastily +scribbled a despatch on my saddle to the effect +that the Tibetan position had been taken without +a shot being fired. The mounted orderly who +carried the despatch bore a similar message from +the mission to the Foreign Office. Then the disarming +began. The Tibetans were told that if +they gave up their arms they would be allowed to +go off unmolested. But they did not wish to give +up their arms. It was a ridiculous position, Sikh +and Mongol swaying backwards and forwards as +they wrestled for the possession of swords and +matchlocks. Perhaps the humour of it made one +careless of the underlying danger. Accounts differ +as to how this wrestling match developed into +war, how, to the delight of the troops, the toy +show became the 'real thing.' Of one thing I +am certain, that a rush was made in the south-east +corner before a shot was fired. If there had +been any firing, I would not have been wandering +about by the Tibetan flank without a revolver in +my hand. As it was, my revolver was buried in +the breast pocket of my Norfolk jacket under my +poshteen. +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_106">[Pg 106]</a></span></p> + +<p>I have no excuse for this folly except a misplaced +contempt for Tibetan arms and courage—a +contempt which accounted for our only serious +casualty in the affair of 1888.<a id="FNanchor_12_12"></a><a href="#Footnote_12_12" class="fnanchor">[12]</a> Also I think there +was in the margin of my consciousness a feeling +that one individual by an act of rashness might +make himself responsible for the lives of hundreds. +Hemmed in as the Tibetans were, no one gave +them credit for the spirit they showed, or imagined +that they would have the folly to resist. But we +had to deal with the most ignorant and benighted +people on earth, most of whom must have thought +our magazine rifles and Maxims as harmless as +their own obsolete matchlocks, and believed that +they bore charms by which they were immune +from death.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<a id="fp106-1"></a><a href="images/fp106-1.jpg"> +<img src="images/fp106-1s.jpg" alt="" title="" /></a> +<span class="caption"><br />Tibetans retreating from Sangars.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<a id="fp106-2"></a><a href="images/fp106-2.jpg"> +<img src="images/fp106-2s.jpg" alt="" title="" /></a> +<span class="caption"><br />Turning Tibetans out of the Sangars on the Hillside.</span> +</div> + +<p>The attack on the south-east corner was so +sudden that the first man was on me before I had +time to draw my revolver.<a id="FNanchor_13_13"></a><a href="#Footnote_13_13" class="fnanchor">[13]</a> He came at me with +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_107">[Pg 107]</a></span> +his sword lifted in both hands over his head. He +had a clear run of ten yards, and if I had not +ducked and caught him by the knees he must +have smashed my skull open. I threw him, and +he dragged me to the ground. Trying to rise, I +was struck on the temple by a second swordsman, +and the blade glanced off my skull. I received +the rest of my wounds, save one or two, on my +hands—as I lay on my face I used them to protect +my head. After a time the blows ceased; +my assailants were all shot down or had fled. I +lay absolutely still for a while until I thought it +safe to raise my head. Then I looked round, and, +seeing no Tibetans near in an erect position, I got +up and walked out of the ring between the rifles +of the Sikhs. The firing line had been formed in +the meantime on a mound about thirty yards +behind me, and I had been exposed to the bullets +of our own men from two sides, as well as the +promiscuous fire of the Tibetans.</p> + +<p>The Tibetans could not have chosen a spot more +fatal for their stand—a bluff hill to the north, a +marsh and stream on the east, and to the west a +stone wall built across the path, which they had +to scale in their attempted assault on General +Macdonald and his escort. Only one man got +over. Inside there was barely an acre of ground, +packed so thickly with seething humanity that +the cross-fire which the Pioneers poured in offered +little danger to their own men.</p> + +<p>The Lhasa General must have fired off his +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_108">[Pg 108]</a></span> +revolver after I was struck down. I cannot credit +the rumour that his action was a signal for a +general attack, and that the Tibetans allowed +themselves to be herded together as a ruse to +get us at close quarters. To begin with, the demand +that they should give up their arms, and +the assurance that they might go off unmolested, +must have been quite unexpected by them, and +I doubt if they realized the advantage of an attack +at close quarters.</p> + +<p>My own impression is that the shot was the act +of a desperate man, ignorant and regardless of +what might ensue. To return to Lhasa with his +army disarmed and disbanded, and without a shot +having been fired, must have meant ruin to him, +and probably death. When we reached Gyantse +we heard that his property had been confiscated +from his family on account of his failure to prevent +our advance.</p> + +<p>The Depon was a man of fine presence and +bearing. I only saw him once, in his last interview +with Colonel Younghusband, but I cannot +dissociate from him a personal courage and a +pride that must have rankled at the indignity of +his position. Probably he knew that his shot was +suicidal.</p> + +<p>The action has been described as one of extreme +folly. But what was left him if he lived except +shame and humiliation? And what Englishman +with the same prospect to face, caught in this +dark eddy of circumstance, would not have done +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_109">[Pg 109]</a></span> +the same thing? He could only fire, and let his +men take their chance, God help them!</p> + +<p>And the rabble? They have been called +treacherous. Why, I don't know. They were +mostly impressed peasants. They did not wish to +give up their arms. Why should they? They knew +nothing of the awful odds against them. They +were being hustled by white men who did not +draw knives or fire guns. Amid that babel of +1,500 men, many of them may not have heard the +command; they may not have believed that their +lives would have been spared.</p> + +<p>Looking back on the affair with all the sanity +of experience, nothing is more natural than what +happened. It was folly and suicide, no doubt; +but it was human nature. They were not going +to give in without having a fling. I hope I shall +not be considered a pro-Tibetan when I say that +I admire their gallantry and dash.</p> + +<p>As my wounds were being dressed I peered over +the mound at the rout. They were walking away! +Why, in the name of all their Bodhisats and +Munis, did they not run? There was cover behind +a bend in the hill a few hundred yards distant, +and they were exposed to a devastating hail +of bullets from the Maxims and rifles, that seemed +to mow down every third or fourth man. Yet +they walked!</p> + +<p>It was the most extraordinary procession I have +ever seen. My friends have tried to explain the +phenomenon as due to obstinacy or ignorance, or +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_110">[Pg 110]</a></span> +Spartan contempt for life. But I think I have the +solution. They were bewildered. The impossible +had happened.</p> + +<p>Prayers, and charms, and mantras, and the +holiest of their holy men, had failed them. I +believe they were obsessed with that one thought. +They walked with bowed heads, as if they had +been disillusioned in their gods.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<a id="fp110"></a><a href="images/fp110.jpg"> +<img src="images/fp110s.jpg" alt="" title="" /></a> +<span class="caption"><br />Diagrammatic View of Hot Springs Action.</span> +</div> + +<p>After the last of the retiring Tibetans had disappeared +round the corner of the Guru road, the +8th Gurkhas descended from the low range of hills +on the right of the position, and crossed the Guru +Plain in extended order with the 2nd Mounted +Infantry on their extreme left. Orders were then +received by Major Row, commanding the detachment, +to take the left of the two houses which +were situated under the hills at the further side +of the plain. This movement was carried out in +conjunction with the mounted infantry. The +advance was covered by the 7-pounder guns +of the Gurkhas under Captain Luke, R.A. The +attacking force advanced in extended order by a +series of small rushes. Cover was scanty, but the +Tibetans, though firing vigorously, fired high, and +there were no casualties. At last the force reached +the outer wall of the house, and regained breath +under cover of it. A few men of the Gurkhas +then climbed on to the roof and descended into +the house, making prisoners of the inmates, who +numbered forty or fifty. Shortly afterwards the +door, which was strongly barricaded, was broken +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_111">[Pg 111]</a></span> +in, and the remainder of the force entered the +house.</p> + +<p>During the advance a number of the Tibetans +attempted to escape on mules and ponies, but +the greater number of these were followed up and +killed. The Tibetan casualties were at least 700.</p> + +<p>Perhaps no British victory has been greeted +with less enthusiasm than the action at the Hot +Springs. Certainly the officers, who did their +duty so thoroughly, had no heart in the business +at all. After the first futile rush the Tibetans +made no further resistance. There was no +more fighting, only the slaughter of helpless +men.</p> + +<p>It is easy to criticise after the event, but it +seems to me that the only way to have avoided +the lamentable affair at the Hot Springs would +have been to have drawn up more troops round +the redan, and, when the Tibetans were hemmed +in with the cliff in their rear, to have given them +at least twenty minutes to lay down their arms. +In the interval the situation might have been +made clear to everyone. If after the time-limit +they still hesitated, two shots might have brought +them to reason. Then, if they were mad enough +to decide on resistance, their suicide would be on +their own heads. But to send two dozen sepoys +into that sullen mob to take away their arms was +to invite disaster. Given the same circumstances, +and any mob in the world of men, women, or +children, civilized or savage, and there would be +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_112">[Pg 112]</a></span> +found at least one rash spirit to explode the mine +and set a spark to a general conflagration.</p> + +<p>It was thought at the time that the lesson +would save much future bloodshed. But the +Tibetan is so stubborn and convinced of his self-sufficiency +that it took many lessons to teach him +the disparity between his armed rabble and the +resources of the British Raj. In the light of after-events +it is clear that we could have made no +progress without inflicting terrible punishment. +The slaughter at Guru only forestalled the inevitable. +We were drawn into the vortex of war by +the Tibetans' own folly. There was no hope of +their regarding the British as a formidable Power, +and a force to be reckoned with, until we had killed +several thousand of their men.</p> + +<p>After the action the Tibetan wounded were +brought into Tuna, and an abandoned dwelling-house +was fitted up as a hospital. An empty +cowshed outside served as an operating-theatre. +The patients showed extraordinary hardihood and +stoicism. After the Dzama Tang engagement +many of the wounded came in riding on yaks from +a distance of fifty or sixty miles. They were consistently +cheerful, and always ready to appreciate +a joke. One man, who lost both legs, said: 'In +my next battle I must be a hero, as I cannot run +away.' Some of the wounded were terribly mutilated +by shell. Two men who were shot through +the brain, and two who were shot through the +lungs, survived. For two days Lieutenant Davys, +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_113">[Pg 113]</a></span> +Indian Medical Service, was operating nearly all +day. I think the Tibetans were really impressed +with our humanity, and looked upon Davys as +some incarnation of a medicine Buddha. They +never hesitated to undergo operations, did not +flinch at pain, and took chloroform without fear. +Their recuperative power was marvellous. Of +the 168 who were received in hospital, only 20 +died; 148 were sent to their homes on hired yaks +cured. Everyone who visited the hospital at +Tuna left it with an increased respect for the +Tibetans.</p> + +<hr class="tb" /> + +<p>Three months after the action I found the +Tibetans still lying where they fell. One shot +through the shoulder in retreat had spun as he +fell facing our rifles. Another tore at the grass +with futile fingers through which a delicate pink +primula was now blossoming. Shrunk arms and +shanks looked hideously dwarfish. By the stream +the bodies lay in heaps with parched skin, like +mummies, rusty brown. A knot of coarse black +hair, detached from a skull, was circling round in +an eddy of wind. Everything had been stripped +from the corpses save here and there a wisp of +cloth, looking more grim than the nakedness it +covered, or round the neck some inexpensive +charm, which no one had thought worth taking +for its occult powers. Nature, more kindly, had +strewn round them beautiful spring flowers +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_114">[Pg 114]</a></span>—primulas, +buttercups, potentils. The stream +'bubbled oilily,' and in the ruined house bees +were swarming.</p> + +<p>Ten miles beyond the Springs an officer was +watering his horse in the Bamtso Lake. The +beast swung round trembling, with eyes astare. +Among the weeds lay the last victim.</p> +</div> + +<div class="chapter" id="chapter_7"> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_115">[Pg 115]</a></span></p> +<h2><a id="CHAPTER_VII"></a><span>CHAPTER VII</span> + +<small>A HUMAN MISCELLANY</small></h2> + +<p><span class="smcap">The</span> Tibetans stood on the roofs of their houses +like a row of cormorants, and watched the doolie +pass underneath. At a little distance it was hard +to distinguish the children, so motionless were +they, from the squat praying-flags wrapped in +black skin and projecting from the parapets of +the roof. The very babes were impassive and +inscrutable. Beside them perched ravens of an +ebony blackness, sleek and well groomed, and so +consequential that they seemed the most human +element of the group.</p> + +<p>My Tibetan bearers stopped to converse with +a woman on the roof who wore a huge red hoop in +her hair, which was matted and touzled like a +negress's. A child behind was searching it, with +apparent success. The woman asked a question, +and the bearers jerked out a few guttural monosyllables, +which she received with indifference. +She was not visibly elated when she heard that +the doolie contained the first victim of the Tibetan +arms. I should like to have heard her views on +the political situation and the question of a settlement. +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_116">[Pg 116]</a></span> +Some of her relatives, perhaps, were +killed in the mêlée at the Hot Springs. Others +who had been taken prisoners might be enlisted +in the new doolie corps, and receiving an unexpected +wage; others, perhaps, were wounded +and being treated in our hospitals with all the +skill and resources of modern science; or they +were bringing in food-stuffs for our troops, or +setting booby-traps for them, and lying in wait +behind sangars to snipe them in the Red Idol +Gorge.</p> + +<p>The bearers started again; the hot sun and +the continued exertion made them stink intolerably. +Every now and then they put down the +doolie, and began discussing their loot—ear-rings +and charms, rough turquoises and ruby-coloured +stones, torn from the bodies of the dead and +wounded. For the moment I was tired of Tibet.</p> + +<p>I remembered another exodus when I was disgusted +with the country. I had been allured +across the Himalayas by the dazzling purity of +the snows. I had escaped the Avernus of the +plains, and I might have been content, but there +was the seduction of the snows. I had gained an +upper story, but I must climb on to the roof. +Every morning the Sun-god threw open the magnificent +portals of his domain, dazzling rifts and +spires, black cliffs glacier-bitten, the flawless +vaulted roof of Kinchenjunga—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">'Myriads of topaz lights and jacinth work<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Of subtlest jewellery.'<br /></span> + +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_117">[Pg 117]</a></span></div></div> + +<p>One morning the roof of the Sun-god's palace +was clear and cloudless, but about its base hung +little clouds of snow-dust, as though the Olympians +had been holding tourney, and the dust had risen +in the tracks of their chariots. All this was seen +over galvanized iron roofs. The Sun-god had +thrown open his palace, and we were playing pitch +and toss on the steps. While I was so engrossed +I looked up. Columns of white cloud were rising +to obscure the entrance. Then a sudden shaft +of sunlight broke the fumes. There was a vivid +flash, a dazzle of jewel-work, and the portals +closed. I was covered with bashfulness and +shame. It was a direct invitation. I made some +excuse to my companion, said I had an engagement, +went straight to my rooms, and packed.</p> + +<p>But while the aroma of my carriers insulted +the pure air, and their chatter over their tawdry +spoil profaned the silent precincts of Chumulari, +their mountain goddess, I thought more of the disenchantment +of that earlier visit. I remembered +sitting on a hillside near a lamasery, which was +surrounded by a small village of Lamas' houses. +Outside the temple a priest was operating on a +yak for vaccine. He had bored a large hole in +the shoulder, into which he alternately buried his +forearm and squirted hot water copiously. A +hideous yellow trickle beneath indicated that the +poor beast was entirely perforated. A crowd of +admiring little boys and girls looked on with +relish. The smell of the poor yak was distressing, +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_118">[Pg 118]</a></span> +but the smell of the Lama was worse. I turned +away in disgust—turned my back contentedly +and without regret on the mysterious land and +the road to the Forbidden City. At that moment, +if the Dalai Lama himself had sent me a chaise +with a dozen outriders and implored me to come, +I would not have visited him, not for a thousand +yaks. The scales of vagabondage fell from my +eyes; the spirit of unrest died within me. I had +a longing for fragrant soap, snowy white linen, +fresh-complexioned ladies and clean-shaven, well-groomed +men.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<a id="fp118-1"></a><a href="images/fp118-1.jpg"> +<img src="images/fp118-1s.jpg" alt="" title="" /></a> +<span class="caption"><br />The Tibetan Dead.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<a id="fp118-2"></a><a href="images/fp118-2.jpg"> +<img src="images/fp118-2s.jpg" alt="" title="" /></a> +<span class="caption"><br />Field-Hospital Doolie with Tibetan Bearers.</span> +</div> + +<p>And here again I was returning very slowly to +civilization; but I was coming back with half an +army corps to shake the Dalai Lama on his throne—or +if there were no throne or Dalai Lama, to do +what? I wondered if the gentlemen sitting +snugly in Downing Street had any idea.</p> + +<p>At Phari I was snow-bound for a week, and +there were no doolie-bearers. The Darjeeling +dandy-wallahs were no doubt at the front, where +they were most wanted, as the trained army +doolie corps are plainsmen, who can barely +breathe, much less work, at these high elevations. +At last we secured some Bhutias who were +returning to the front.</p> + +<p>The Bhutia is a type I have long known, though +not in the capacity of bearer. These men regarded +the doolie with the invalid inside as a piece +of baggage that had to be conveyed from one +camp to another, no matter how. Of the art of +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_119">[Pg 119]</a></span> +their craft they knew nothing, but they battled +with the elements so stoutly that one forgave +them their awkwardness. They carried me along +mountain-paths so slippery that a mule could find +no foothold, through snow so deep and clogging +that with all their toil they could make barely +half a mile an hour; and they took shelter once +from a hailstorm in which exposure without thick +head-covering might have been fatal. Often they +dropped the doolie, sometimes on the edge of a +precipice, in places where one perspired with +fright; they collided quite unnecessarily with +stones and rocks; but they got through, and +that was the main point. Men who have carried +a doolie over a difficult mountain-pass (14,350 feet), +slipping and stumbling through snow and ice in +the face of a hurricane of wind, deserve well of +the great Raj which they serve.</p> + +<p>On the road into Darjeeling, owing to the +absence of trained doolie-bearers, I met a human +miscellany that I am not likely to forget. Eight +miles beyond the Jelap lies the fort of Gnatong, +whence there is a continual descent to the plains +of India. The neighbouring hills and valleys had +been searched for men; high wages were offered, +and at last from some remote village in Sikkim +came a dozen weedy Lepchas, simian in appearance, +and of uncouth speech, who understood no +civilized tongue. They had never seen a doolie, +but in default of better they were employed. It +was nobody's fault; bearers must be had, and +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_120">[Pg 120]</a></span> +the profession was unpopular. I was their 'first +job.' I settled myself comfortably, all unconscious +of my impending fate. They started off +with a wild whoop, threw the doolie up in the air, +caught it on their shoulders, and played cup and +ball with the contents until they were tired. I +swore at them in Spanish, English, and Hindustani, +but it was small relief, as they didn't take +the slightest notice, and I had neither hands to +beat them nor feet to kick them over the <i>khud</i>. +My orderly followed and told them in a mild +North-Country accent that they would be punished +if they did it again; there is some absurd army +regulation about British soldiers striking followers. +For all they knew, he was addressing the stars. +They dropped the thing a dozen times in ten miles, +and thought it the hugest joke in the world. I +shall shy at a hospital doolie for the rest of my +natural life.</p> + +<p>There is a certain Mongol smell which is the +most unpleasant human odour I know. It is +common to Lepchas, Bhutanese, and Tibetans, +but it is found in its purest essence in these low-country, +cross-bred Lepchas, who were my close +companions for two days. When we reached the +heat of the valley, they jumped into the stream +and bathed, but they emerged more unsavoury +than ever. It was a relief to pass a dead mule. +At the next village they got drunk, after which +they developed an amazing surefootedness, and +carried me in without mishap. +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_121">[Pg 121]</a></span></p> + +<p>After two days with my Lepchas we reached +Rungli (2,000 feet), whence the road to the plains +is almost level. Here a friend introduced me to +a Jemadar in a Gurkha regiment.</p> + +<p>'He writes all about our soldiers and the +fighting in Tibet,' he said. 'It all goes home +to England on the telegraph-wire, and people at +home are reading what he says an hour or two +after he has given <i>khubber</i> to the office here.'</p> + +<p>'Oh yes,' said the Jemadar in Hindustani, 'and +if things are well the people in England will be +very glad; and if we are ill and die, and there is +too much cold, they will be very sorry.'</p> + +<p>The Jemadar smiled. He was most sincere +and sympathetic. If an Englishman had said the +same thing, he would have been thought half-witted, +but Orientals have a way of talking platitudes +as if they were epigrams.</p> + +<p>The Jemadar's speech was so much to the point +that it called up a little picture in my mind of +the London Underground and a liveried official +dealing out <i>Daily Mails</i> to crowds of inquirers +anxious for news of Tibet. Only the sun blazed +overhead and the stream made music at our feet.</p> + +<p>I left the little rest-hut in the morning, resigned +to the inevitable jolting, and expecting another +promiscuous collection of humanity to do duty as +<i>kahars</i>. But, to my great joy, I found twelve +Lucknow doolie-wallahs waiting by the veranda, +lithe and erect, and part of a drilled corps. Drill +discipline is good, but in the art of their trade +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_122">[Pg 122]</a></span> +these men needed no teaching. For centuries +their ancestors had carried palanquins in the +plains, bearing Rajas and ladies of high estate, +perhaps even the Great Mogul himself. The running +step to their strange rhythmic chants must +be an instinct to them. That morning I knew +my troubles were at an end. They started off +with steps of velvet, improvising as they went a +kind of plaintive song like an intoned litany.</p> + +<p>The leading man chanted a dimeter line, +generally with an iambus in the first foot; but +when the road was difficult or the ascent toilsome, +the metre became trochaic, in accordance with +the best traditions of classical poetry. The hind-men +responded with a sing-song trochaic dimeter +which sounded like a long-drawn-out monosyllable. +They never initiated anything. It was +not custom; it had never been done. The laws +of Nature are not so immutable as the ritual of a +Hindu guild.</p> + +<p>We sped on smoothly for eight miles, and when +I asked the <i>kahars</i> if they were tired, they said +they would not rest, as relays were waiting on the +road. All the way they chanted their hymn of +the obvious:—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">'Mountains are steep;<br /></span> +<span class="i2"><i>Chorus</i>: Yes, they are.<br /></span> +<span class="i0">The road is narrow;<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Yes, it is.<br /></span> +<span class="i0">The sahib is wounded;<br /></span> +<span class="i2">That is so. +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_123">[Pg 123]</a></span><br /></span> +<span class="i0">With many wounds;<br /></span> +<span class="i2">They are many.<br /></span> +<span class="i0">The road goes down;<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Yes, it does.<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Now we are hurrying;<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Yes, we are.'<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>Here they ran swiftly till the next rise in the hill.</p> + +<p>Waiting in the shade for relays, I heard two +Englishmen meet on the road. One had evidently +been attached, and was going down to join his +regiment; the other was coming up on special +service. I caught fragments of our crisp expressive +argot.</p> + +<p><i>Officer going down</i> (<i>apparently disillusioned</i>): +'Oh, it's the same old bald-headed maidan we +usually muddle into.'</p> + +<p><i>Officer coming up</i>: '... Up above Phari ideal +country for native cavalry, isn't it?... A few +men with lances prodding those fellows in the +back would soon put the fear of God into them. +Why don't they send up the —th Light Cavalry?'</p> + +<p><i>Officer going down</i>: 'They've Walers, and you +can't feed 'em, and the —th are all Jats. They're +no good; can't do without a devil of a lot of milk. +They want bucketsful of it. Well, bye-bye; +you'll soon get fed up with it.'</p> + +<p>The doolie was hitched up, and the <i>kahars</i> resumed +their chant:</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">'A sahib goes up;<br /></span> +<span class="i2">Yes, he does.<br /></span> +<span class="i0">A sahib goes down;<br /></span> +<span class="i2">That is so.'<br /></span> + +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_124">[Pg 124]</a></span></div></div> + +<p>The heat and the monotonous cadence induced +drowsiness, and one fell to thinking of this odd +motley of men, all of one genus, descended from +the anthropoid ape, and exhibiting various phases +of evolution—the primitive Lepcha, advanced +little further than his domestic dog; the Tibetan +<i>kahar</i> caught in the wheel of civilization, and +forming part of the mechanism used to bring his +own people into line; the Lucknow doolie-bearer +and the Jemadar Sahib, products of a hoary +civilization that have escaped complexity and +nerves; and lord of all these, by virtue of his +race, the most evolved, the English subaltern. +All these folk are brought together because the +people on the other side of the hills will insist on +being obsolete anachronisms, who have been asleep +for hundreds of years while we have been developing +the sense of our duty towards our neighbour. +They must come into line; it is the will of the +most evolved.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<a id="fp124"></a><a href="images/fp124.jpg"> +<img src="images/fp124s.jpg" alt="" title="" /></a> +<span class="caption"><br />Tibetan Soldiers.</span> +</div> + +<p>The next day I was carried for miles through a +tropical forest. The damp earth sweated in the +sun after last night's thunder-storm, and the +vegetation seemed to grow visibly in the steaming +moisture. Gorgeous butterflies, the epicures of a +season, came out to indulge a love of sunshine and +suck nectar from all this profusion. Overhead, +birds shrieked and whistled and beat metal, and +did everything but sing. The cicadas raised a +deafening din in praise of their Maker, seeming to +think, in their natural egoism, that He had made +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_125">[Pg 125]</a></span> +the forest, oak, and gossamer for their sakes. We +were not a thousand feet above the sea. Thousands +of feet above us, where we were camping a +day or two ago, our troops were marching through +snow.</p> + +<p>The next morning we crossed the Tista River, +and the road led up through sal forests to a tea-garden +at 3,500 feet. Here we entered the most +perfect climate in the world, and I enjoyed genial +hospitality and a foretaste of civilization: a bed, +sheets, a warm bath, clean linen, fruit, sparkling +soda, a roomy veranda with easy-chairs, and outside +roses and trellis-work, and a garden bright +with orchids and wild-turmeric and a profusion of +semi-tropical and English flowers—all the things +which the spoilt children of civilization take as a +matter of course, because they have never slept +under the stars, or known what it is to be hungry +and cold, or exhausted by struggling against the +forces of untamed Nature.</p> + +<p>At noon next day, in the cantonments at Jelapahar, +an officer saw a strange sight—a field-hospital +doolie with the red cross, and twelve +<i>kahars</i>, Lucknow men, whose plaintive chant +must have recalled old days on the North-West +frontier. Behind on a mule rode a British orderly +of the King's Own Scottish Borderers, bearded and +weather-stained, and without a trace of the spick-and-spanness +of cantonments. I saw the officer's +face lighten; he became visibly excited; he could +not restrain himself—he swung round, rode after +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_126">[Pg 126]</a></span> +my orderly, and began to question him without +shame. Here was civilization longing for the +wilderness, and over there, beyond the mist, +under that snow-clad peak, were men in the +wilderness longing for civilization.</p> + +<p>A cloud swept down and obscured the Jelap, as +if the chapter were closed. But it is not. That +implacable barrier must be crossed again, and +then, when we have won the most secret places +of the earth, we may cry with Burton and his +Arabs, 'Voyaging is victory!'</p> +</div> + +<div class="chapter" id="chapter_8"> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_127">[Pg 127]</a></span></p> +<h2><a id="CHAPTER_VIII"></a><span>CHAPTER VIII</span> + +<small>THE ADVANCE OF THE MISSION OPPOSED</small></h2> + +<p><span class="smcap">The</span> intention of the Tibetans at the Hot Springs +has not been made clear. They say that their +orders were to oppose our advance, but to avoid +a battle, just as our orders were to take away +their arms, if possible, without firing a shot. The +muddle that ensued lends itself to several interpretations, +and the Tibetans ascribe their loss to +British treachery. They say that we ordered them +to destroy the fuses of their matchlocks, and then +fired on them. This story was taken to Lhasa, +with the result that the new levies from the +capital were not deterred by the terrible punishment +inflicted on their comrades. Orders were +given to oppose us on the road to Gyantse, and +an armed force, which included many of the +fugitives from Guru, gathered about Kangma.</p> + +<p>The peace delegates always averred that we +fired the first shot at Guru. But even if we give +the Tibetans the benefit of the doubt, and admit +that the action grew out of the natural excitement +of two forces struggling for arms, both of whom +were originally anxious to avoid a conflict, there +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_128">[Pg 128]</a></span> +is still no doubt that the responsibility of continuing +the hostilities lies with the Tibetans.</p> + +<p>On the morning of April 7 ten scouts of the +2nd Mounted Infantry, under Captain Peterson, +found the Tibetans occupying the village of Samando, +seventeen miles beyond Kalatso. As our +men had orders not to fire or provoke an attack, +they sent a messenger up to the walls to ask one +of the Tibetans to come out and parley. They +said they would send for a man, and invited us +to come nearer. When we had ridden up to +within a hundred yards of the village, they opened +a heavy fire on us with their matchlocks. Our +scouts spread out, rode back a few hundred yards, +and took cover behind stones. Not a man or +pony was hit. Before retiring, the mounted infantry +fired a few volleys at the Tibetans who +were lining the roofs of two large houses and a +wall that connected them, their heads only appearing +above the low turf parapets. Twice the +Tibetans sent off a mounted man for reinforcements, +but our shooting was so good that each +time the horse returned riderless. The next +morning we found the village unoccupied, and discovered +six dead left on the roofs, most of whom +were wounded about the chest. Our bullets had +penetrated the two feet of turf and killed the man +behind. Putting aside the question of Guru, the +Samando affair was the first overt act of hostility +directed against the mission.</p> + +<p>After Samando there was no longer any doubt +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_129">[Pg 129]</a></span> +that the Tibetans intended to oppose our advance. +On the 8th the mounted infantry discovered a +wall built across the valley and up the hills just +this side of Kangma, which they reported as +occupied by about 1,000 men. As it was too late +to attack that night, we formed camp. The next +morning we found the wall evacuated, and the +villagers reported that the Tibetans had retired +to the gorge below. This habit of building formidable +barriers across a valley, stretching from +crest to crest of the flanking hills, is a well-known +trait of Tibetan warfare. The wall is often built +in the night and abandoned the next morning. +One would imagine that, after toiling all night to +make a strong position, the Tibetans would hold +their wall if they intended to make a stand +anywhere. But they do not grudge the labour. +Wall-building is an instinct with them. When a +Tibetan sees two stones by the roadside, he cannot +resist placing one on the top of the other. +So wherever one goes the whole countryside is +studded with these monuments of wasted labour, +erected to propitiate the genii of the place, or +from mere force of habit to while away an idle +hour. During the campaign of 1888 it was this +practice of strengthening and abandoning positions +more than anything else which gained the +Tibetans the reputation of cowardice, which they +have since shown to be totally undeserved.</p> + +<p>On April 8, owing to the delay in reconnoitring +the wall, we made only about eight miles, and +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_130">[Pg 130]</a></span> +camped. The next morning we had marched +about two miles, when we found the high ridge +on the left flank occupied by the enemy, and the +mounted infantry reported them in the gorge +beyond. Two companies of the 8th Gurkhas +under Major Row were sent up to the hill on +the left to turn the enemy's right flank, and the +mountain battery (No. 7) came into action on +the right at over 3,000 yards. The enemy kept +up a continuous but ineffectual fire from the +ridge, none of their jingal bullets falling anywhere +near us. The Gurkhas had a very difficult climb. +The hill was quite 2,000 feet above the valley; +the lower and a good deal of the other slopes were +of coarse sand mixed with shale, and the rest +nothing but slippery rock. The summit of the +hill was approached by a number of step-like +shale terraces covered with snow. When only +a short way up, a snowstorm came on and obscured +the Gurkhas from view. The cold was +intense, and the troops in the valley began to +collect the sparse brushwood, and made fires to +keep themselves warm.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<a id="fp130-1"></a><a href="images/fp130-1.jpg"> +<img src="images/fp130-1s.jpg" alt="" title="" /></a> +<span class="caption"><br />Wounded Tibetan.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<a id="fp130-2"></a><a href="images/fp130-2.jpg"> +<img src="images/fp130-2s.jpg" alt="" title="" /></a> +<span class="caption"><br />Wounded Tibetan in British Hospital.</span> +</div> + +<p>On account of the nature of the hillside and the +high altitude, the progress of the Gurkhas was very +slow, and it took them nearly three hours to reach +the ridge held by the enemy. When about two-thirds +of the way up, they came under fire from +the ridge, but all the shots went high. The +jingals carried well over them at about 1,200 +yards. The enemy also sent a detachment to +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_131">[Pg 131]</a></span> +meet them on the top, but these did not fire long, +and retired as the Gurkhas advanced. When the +8th reached the summit, the Tibetans were in full +flight down the opposite slope, which was also +snow-covered. Thirty were shot down in the +rout, and fifty-four who were hiding in the caves +were made prisoners.</p> + +<p>In the meanwhile the battery had been making +very good practice at 3,000 yards. Seven men +were found dead on the summit, and four wounded, +evidently by their fire.</p> + +<p>But to return to the main action in the gorge. +The Tibetans held a very strong position among +some loose boulders on the right, two miles beyond +the gully which the Gurkhas had ascended to +make their flank attack. The rocks extended +from the bluff cliff to the path which skirted the +stream. No one could ask for better cover; it +was most difficult to distinguish the drab-coated +Tibetans who lay concealed there. To attack this +strong position General Macdonald sent Captain +Bethune with one company of the 32nd Pioneers, +placing Lieutenant Cook with his Maxim on a +mound at 500 yards to cover Bethune's advance. +Bethune led a frontal attack. The Tibetans fired +wildly until the Sikhs were within eighty yards, and +then fled up the valley. Not a single man of the +32nd was hit during the attack, though one sepoy +was wounded in the pursuit by a bullet in the +hand from a man who lay concealed behind a +rock within a few yards of him. While the 32nd +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_132">[Pg 132]</a></span> +were dislodging the Tibetans from the path and +the rocks above it, the mounted infantry galloped +through them to reconnoitre ahead and cut off +the fugitives in the valley. They also came +through the enemy's fire at very close quarters +without a casualty. On emerging from the gorge +the mounted infantry discovered that the ridge +the Tibetans had held was shaped like the letter +S, so that by doubling back along an almost +parallel valley they were able to intercept the +enemy whom the Gurkhas had driven down the +cliffs. The unfortunate Tibetans were now +hemmed in between two fires, and hardly a +man of them escaped.</p> + +<p>The Tibetan casualties, as returned at the time, +were much exaggerated. The killed amounted +to 100, and, on the principle that the proportion +of wounded must be at least two to one, it +was estimated that their losses were 300. But, +as a matter of fact, the wounded could not have +numbered more than two dozen.</p> + +<p>The prisoners taken by the Gurkhas on the top +of the ridge turned out to be impressed peasants, +who had been compelled to fight us by the Lamas. +They were not soldiers by inclination or instinct, +and I believe their greatest fear was that they +might be released and driven on to fight us again.</p> + +<p>The action at the Red Idol Gorge may be regarded +as the end of the first phase of the Tibetan +opposition. We reached Gyantse on April 11, +and the fort was surrendered without resistance. +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_133">[Pg 133]</a></span> +Nothing had occurred on the march up to disturb +our estimate of the enemy. Since the campaign +of 1888 no one had given the Tibetans any credit +for martial instincts, and until the Karo la action +and the attack on Gyantse they certainly displayed +none. It would be hard to exaggerate the +strategical difficulties of the country through +which we had to pass. The progress of the +mission and its escort under similar conditions +would have been impossible on the North-West +frontier or in any country inhabited by a people +with the rudiments of sense or spirit. The difficulties +of transport were so great that the escort +had to be cut down to the finest possible figure. +There were barely enough men for pickets, and +many of the ordinary precautions of field manœuvres +were out of the question. But the Tibetan +failed to realize his opportunities. He avoided +the narrow forest-clad ravines of Sikkim and +Chumbi, and made his first stand on the open +plateau at Guru. Fortunately for us, he never +learnt what transport means to a civilized army. +A bag of barley-meal, some weighty degchies, and +a massive copper teapot slung over the saddle are +all he needs; evening may produce a sheep or a +yak. His movements are not hampered by supplies. +If the importance of the transport question +had ever entered his head, he would have +avoided the Tuna camp, with its Maxims and +mounted infantry, and made a dash upon the +line of communications. A band of hardy mountaineers +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_134">[Pg 134]</a></span> +in their own country might very easily +surprise and annihilate an ill-guarded convoy in +a narrow valley thickly forested and flanked by +steep hills. To furtively cut an artery in your +enemy's arm and let out the blood is just as +effective as to knock him on the head from in +front. But in this first phase of the operations +the Tibetans showed no strategy; they were +badly led, badly armed, and apparently devoid +of all soldier-like qualities. Only on one or two +occasions they displayed a desperate and fatal +courage, and this new aspect of their character +was the first indication that we might have to +revise the views we had formed sixteen years +ago of an enemy who has seemed to us since +a unique exception to the rule that a hardy +mountain people are never deficient in courage +and the instinct of self-defence.</p> + +<p>The most extraordinary aspect of the fighting +up to our arrival at Gyantse was that we had only +one casualty from a gunshot wound—the Sikh +who was shot in the hand at the Dzama Tang +affair by a Tibetan whose jezail was almost touching +him. Yet at the Hot Springs the Tibetans +fired off their matchlocks and rifles into the thick +of us, and at Guru an hour afterwards the Gurkhas +walked right up to a house held by the enemy, +under heavy fire, and took it without a casualty. +The mounted infantry were exposed to a volley +at Samando at 100 yards, and again in the Red +Idol Gorge they rode through the enemy's fire +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_135">[Pg 135]</a></span> +at an even shorter range. In the same action +the 32nd made a frontal attack on a strong position +which was held until they were within eighty +yards, and not a man was hit. No wonder we had +a contempt for the Tibetan arms. Their matchlocks, +weapons of the rudest description, must +have been as dangerous to their own marksmen +as to the enemy; their artillery fire, to judge by +our one experience of it at Dzama Tang, was +harmless and erratic; and their modern Lhasa-made +rifles had not left a mark on our men. The +Tibetans' only chance seemed to be a rush at close +quarters, but they had not proved themselves +competent swordsmen. My own individual case +was sufficient to show that they were bunglers. +Besides the twelve wounds I received at the Hot +Springs, I found seven sword-cuts on my poshteen, +none of which were driven home. During the +whole campaign we had only one death from +sword-wounds.</p> + +<p>Arrived at Gyantse, we settled down with some +sense of security. A bazaar was held outside the +camp. The people seemed friendly, and brought +in large quantities of supplies. Colonel Younghusband, +in a despatch to the Foreign Office, reported +that with the surrender of Gyantse Fort +on April 12 resistance in that part of Tibet was +ended. A letter was received from the Amban +stating that he would certainly reach Gyantse +within the next three weeks, and that competent +and trustworthy Tibetan representatives would +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_136">[Pg 136]</a></span> +accompany him. The Lhasa officials, it was said, +were in a state of panic, and had begged the +Amban to visit the British camp and effect a +settlement.</p> + +<p>On April 20 General Macdonald's staff, with the +10-pounder guns, three companies of the 23rd +Pioneers, and one and a half companies of the +8th Gurkhas, returned to Chumbi to relieve the +strain on the transport and strengthen the line of +communications. Gyantse Jong was evacuated, +and we occupied a position in a group of houses, +as we thought, well out of range of fire from the +fort.</p> + +<p>Everything was quiet until the end of April, +when we heard that the Tibetans were occupying +a wall in some strength near the Karo la, forty-two +miles from Gyantse, on the road to Lhasa. +Colonel Brander, of the 32nd Pioneers, who was +left in command at Gyantse, sent a small party +of mounted infantry and pioneers to reconnoitre +the position. They discovered 2,000 of the enemy +behind a strong loopholed wall stretching across +the valley, a distance of nearly 600 yards. As the +party explored the ravine they had a narrow escape +from a booby-trap, a formidable device of Tibetan +warfare, which was only employed against our +troops on this occasion. An artificial avalanche +of rocks and stones is so cunningly contrived +that the removal of one stone sends the whole +engine of destruction thundering down the hillside. +Luckily, the Tibetans did not wait for +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_137">[Pg 137]</a></span> +our main body, but loosed the machine on an +advance guard of mounted infantry, who were +in extended order and able to take shelter behind +rocks.</p> + +<p>On the return of the reconnaissance Colonel +Brander decided to attack, as he considered the +gathering threatened the safety of the mission. +The Karo Pass is an important strategical position, +lying as it does at the junction of the two +roads to India, one of which leads to Kangma, +the other to Gyantse. A strong force holding the +pass might at any moment pour troops down the +valley to Kangma, cut us off in the rear, and +destroy our line of communications. When Colonel +Brander led his small force to take the pass, it +was not with the object of clearing the road to +Lhasa. The measure was purely defensive: the +action was undertaken to keep the road open +for convoys and reinforcements, and to protect +isolated posts on the line. The force with the +mission was still an 'escort,' and so far its operations +had been confined to dispersing the armed +levies that blocked the road.</p> + +<p>On May 3 Colonel Brander left Gyantse with +his column of 400 rifles, comprising three companies +of the 32nd Pioneers, under Captains +Bethune and Cullen and Lieutenant Hodgson; +one company of the 8th, under Major Row +and Lieutenant Coleridge, with two 7-pounder +guns; the Maxim detachment of the Norfolks, +under Lieutenant Hadow; and forty-five of the +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_138">[Pg 138]</a></span> +1st Mounted Infantry, under Captain Ottley. On +the first day the column marched eighteen miles, +and halted at Gobshi. On the second day they +reached Ralung, eleven miles further, and on the +third marched up the pass and encamped on an +open spot about two miles from where the Tibetans +had built their wall. A reconnaissance that afternoon +estimated the enemy at 2,000, and they +were holding the strongest position on the road to +Lhasa. They had built a wall the whole length +of a narrow spur and up the hill on the other side +of the stream, and in addition held detached +sangars high up the steep hills, and well thrown +forward. Their flanks rested on very high and +nearly precipitous rocks. It was only possible to +climb the ridge on our right from a mile behind, +and on the left from nearly three-quarters of a +mile. Colonel Brander at first considered the +practicability of delaying the attack on the main +wall until the Gurkhas had completed their flanking +movements, cleared the Tibetans out of the +sangars that enfiladed our advance in the valley, +and reached a position on the hills beyond the +wall, whence they could fire into the enemy's +rear. But the cliffs were so sheer that the ascent +was deemed impracticable, and the next morning +it was decided to make a frontal attack without +waiting for the Gurkhas to turn the flank. No +one for a moment thought it could be done.</p> + +<p>The troops marched out of camp at ten o'clock. +One company of the 32nd Pioneers, under Captain +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_139">[Pg 139]</a></span> +Cullen, was detailed to attack on the right, and +a second company, under Captain Bethune, to +follow the river-bed, where they were under cover +of the high bank until within 400 yards of the +wall, and then rush the centre of the position. +The 1st Mounted Infantry, under Captain Ottley, +were to follow this company along the valley. +The guns, Maxims, and one company of the 32nd +in reserve, occupied a small plateau in the centre. +Half a company of the 8th Gurkhas were left +behind to guard the camp. A second half-company, +under Major Row, were sent along the hillside +on the left to attack the enemy's extreme +right sangar, but their progress over the shifting +shale slopes and jagged rocks was so slow that the +front attack did not wait for them.</p> + +<p>The fire from the wall was very heavy, and the +advance of Cullen's and Bethune's companies was +checked. Bethune sent half a company back, +and signalled to the mounted infantry to retire. +Then, compelled by some fatal impulse, he changed +his mind, and with half a company left the cover +of the river-bed and rushed out into the open +within forty yards of the main wall, exposed to a +withering fire from three sides. His half-company +held back, and Bethune fell shot through +the head with only four men by his side—a bugler, +a store-office babu, and two devoted Sikhs. What +the clerk was doing there no one knows, but +evidently the soldier in the man had smouldered in +suppression among the office files and triumphed +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_140">[Pg 140]</a></span> +splendidly. It was a gallant reckless charge +against uncounted odds. Poor Bethune had +learnt to despise the Tibetans' fire, and his contempt +was not unnatural. On the march to +Gyantse the enemy might have been firing blank +cartridges for all the effect they had left on our +men. At Dzama Tang Bethune had made a +frontal attack on a strong position, and carried it +without losing a man. Against a similar rabble +it might have been possible to rush the wall with +his handful of Sikhs, but these new Kham levies +who held the Karo la were a very different type +of soldier.</p> + +<p>The frontal attack was a terrible mistake, as +was shown four hours afterwards, when the +enemy were driven from their position without +further loss to ourselves by a flanking movement +on the right.</p> + +<p>At twelve o'clock Major Row, after a laborious +climb, reached a point on a hillside level with the +sangars, which were strongly held on a narrow +ledge 200 yards in front of him. Here he sent up +a section of his men under cover of projecting +rocks to get above the sangars and fire down into +them. In the meanwhile some of the enemy +scrambled on to the rocks above, and began throwing +down boulders at the Gurkhas, but these +either broke up or fell harmless on the shale slopes +above. After waiting an hour, Major Row went +back himself and found his section checked half-way +by the stone-throwing and shots from above; +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_141">[Pg 141]</a></span> +they had tried another way, but found it impracticable.</p> + +<p>Keeping a few men back to fire on any stone-throwers +who showed themselves, Row dribbled +his men across the difficult place, and in half +an hour reached the rocky ledge above the +sangars and looked right down on the enemy. +At the first few shots from the Gurkhas they +began to bolt, and, coming into the fire of the +men below, who now rushed forward, nearly +every man—forty in all—was killed. One or two +who escaped the fire found their flight cut off by +a precipice, and in an abandonment of terror +hurled themselves down on the rocks below. +After clearing the sangar, the Gurkhas had only +to surmount the natural difficulties of the rocky +and steep hill; for though the enemy fired on +them from the wall, their shooting was most +erratic. When at last they reached a small spur +that overlooked the Tibetan main position, they +found, to their disgust, that each man was protected +from their fire by a high stone traverse, +on the right-hand of which he lay secure, and +fired through loopholes barely a foot from the +ground.</p> + +<p>The Gurkhas had accomplished a most difficult +mountaineering feat under a heavy fire; they +had turned the enemy out of their sangars, and +after four hours' climbing they had scaled the +heights everyone thought inaccessible. But their +further progress was barred by a sheer cliff; they +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_142">[Pg 142]</a></span> +had reached a cul-de-sac. Looking up from the +valley, it appeared that the spot where they +stood commanded the enemy's position, but we +had not reckoned on the traverses. This amazing +advance in the enemy's defensive tactics had +rendered their position unassailable from the +left, and made the Gurkhas' flanking movement +a splendid failure.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<a id="fp142"></a><a href="images/fp142.jpg"> +<img src="images/fp142s.jpg" alt="" title="" /></a> +<span class="caption"><br />Pioneers destroying Kangma Wall.</span> +</div> + +<p>It was now two o'clock, and, except for the capture +of the enemy's right sangars, we had done +nothing to weaken their opposition. The frontal +and flanking attacks had failed. Bethune was +killed, and seventeen men. Our guns had made +no impression on their wall. Looking down from +the spur which overlooked the Tibetan camp and +the valley beyond, the Gurkhas could see a large +reinforcement of at least 500 men coming up to +join the enemy. The situation was critical. In +four hours we had done nothing, and we knew +that if we could not take the place by dusk we +would have to abandon the attack or attempt to +rush the camp at night. That would have been a +desperate undertaking—400 men against 3,000, a +rush at close quarters with the bayonet, in which +the superiority of our modern rifles would be +greatly discounted.</p> + +<p>Matters were at this crisis, when we saw the +Tibetans running out of their extreme left sangars. +At twelve o'clock, when the front attack had +failed and the left attack was apparently making +no progress, fifteen men of the 32nd who were +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_143">[Pg 143]</a></span> +held in reserve were sent up the hill on the right. +They had reached a point above the enemy's left +forward sangar, and were firing into it with great +effect. Twice the Tibetans rushed out, and, coming +under a heavy Maxim fire, bolted back again. +The third time they fled in a mass, and the +Maxims mowed down about thirty. The capture +of the sangars was a signal for a general +stampede. From the position they had won the +Sikhs could enfilade the main wall itself. The +Tibetans only waited a few shots; then they +turned and fled in three huge bodies down the +valley. Thus the fifteen Sikhs on the right saved +the situation. The tension had been great. In +no other action during the campaign, if we except +Palla, did the success of our arms stand so long in +doubt. Had we failed to take the wall by daylight, +Colonel Brander's column would have been +in a most precarious position. We could not +afford to retire, and a night attack could only +have been pushed home with heavy loss.</p> + +<p>Directly the flight began, the 1st Mounted Infantry—forty-two +men, under Captain Ottley—rode +up to the wall. They were ten minutes +making a breach. Then they poured into the +valley and harassed the flying masses, riding on +their flanks and pursuing them for ten miles to +within sight of the Yamdok Tso. It showed +extraordinary courage on the part of this little +band of Masbis and Gurkhas that they did not +hesitate to hurl themselves on the flanks of this +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_144">[Pg 144]</a></span> +enormous body of men, like terriers on the heels +of a flock of cattle, though they had had experience +of their stubborn resistance the whole day +long, and rode through the bodies of their fallen +comrades. Not a man drew rein. The Tibetans +were caught in a trap. The hills that sloped +down to the valley afforded them little cover. +Their fate was only a question of time and ammunition. +The mounted infantry returned at +night with only three casualties, having killed +over 300 men.</p> + +<p>The sortie to the Karo la was one of the most +brilliant episodes of the campaign. We risked +more then than on any other occasion. But the +safety of the mission and many isolated posts on +the line was imperilled by this large force at the +cross-roads, which might have increased until it +had doubled or trebled if we had not gone out +to disperse it. A weak commander might have +faltered and weighed the odds, but Colonel +Brander saw that it was a moment to strike, and +struck home. His action was criticised at the +time as too adventurous. But the sortie is one +of the many instances that our interests are best +cared for by men who are beyond the telegraph-poles, +and can act on their own initiative without +reference to Government offices in Simla.</p> + +<p>As the column advanced to the Karo la, a +message was received that the mission camp at +Gyantse had been attacked in the early morning +of the 5th, and that Major Murray's men—150 +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_145">[Pg 145]</a></span> +odd rifles—had not only beaten the enemy off, +but had made three sorties from different points +and killed 200.</p> + +<p>With the action at the Karo la and the attack +on the mission at Gyantse began the second phase +of the operations, during which we were practically +besieged in our own camp, and for nine +weeks compelled to act on the defensive. The +courage of the Tibetans was now proved beyond +a doubt. The new levies from Kham and Shigatze +were composed of very different men from +those we herded like sheep at Guru. They were +also better armed than our previous assailants, and +many of them knew how to shoot. At the same +time they were better led. The primitive ideas +of strategy hitherto displayed by the Tibetans +gave place to more advanced tactics. The usual +story got wind that the Tibetans were being led +by trained Russian Buriats. But there was no +truth in it. The altered conditions of the campaign, +as we may call it, after it became necessary +to begin active operations, were due to the force +of circumstances—the arrival of stouter levies +from the east, the great numerical superiority of +the enemy, and their strongly fortified positions.</p> + +<p>The operations at Gyantse are fully dealt with +in another chapter, and I will conclude this account +of the opposition to our advance with a description +of the attack on the Kangma post, the only +attempt on the part of the enemy to cut off +our line of communications. Its complete failure +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_146">[Pg 146]</a></span> +seems to have deterred the Tibetans from subsequent +ventures of the kind.</p> + +<p>From Ralung, ten miles this side of the Karo la, +two roads branch off to India. The road leading +to Kangma is the shortest route; the other road +makes a détour of thirty miles to include Gyantse. +Ralung lies at the apex of the triangle, as shown +in this rough diagram. Gyantse and Kangma +form the two base angles.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<a href="images/p146.png"><img src="images/p146s.png" alt="Diagram." title="" /></a> +</div> + +<p>If it had been possible, a strong post would have +been left at the Karo la after the action of May 6. +But our small force was barely sufficient to garrison +Gyantse, and we had to leave the alternative +approach to Kangma unguarded. An attack was +expected there; the post was strongly fortified, +and garrisoned by two companies of the 23rd +Pioneers, under Captain Pearson.</p> + +<p>The attack, which was made on June 7, was +unexpectedly dramatic. We have learnt that the +Tibetan has courage, but in other respects he is +still an unknown quantity. In motive and action +he is as mysterious and unaccountable as his +paradoxical associations would lead us to imagine. +In dealing with the Tibetans one must expect +the unexpected. They will try to achieve the +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_147">[Pg 147]</a></span> +impossible, and shut their eyes to the obvious. +They have a genius for doing the wrong thing at +the wrong time. Their élan, their dogged courage, +their undoubted heroism, their occasional acuteness, +their more general imbecile folly and vacillation +and inability to grasp a situation, make it +impossible to say what they will do in any given +circumstances. A few dozen men will hurl themselves +against hopeless odds, and die to a man +fighting desperately; a handful of impressed +peasants will devote themselves to death in the +defence of a village, like the old Roman patriots. +At other times they will forsake a strongly +sangared position at the first shot, and thousands +will prowl round a camp at night, shouting grotesquely, +but too timid to make a determined +attack on a vastly outnumbered enemy.</p> + +<p>The uncertainty of the enemy may be accounted +for to some extent by the fact that we are not +often opposed by the same levies, which would +imply that theirs is greatly the courage of ignorance. +Yet in the face of the fighting at Palla, +Naini, and Gyantse Jong, this is evidently no +fair estimate of the Tibetan spirit. The men who +stood in the breach at Gyantse in that hell of +shrapnel and Maxim and rifle fire, and dropped +down stones on our Gurkhas as they climbed the +wall, met death knowingly, and were unterrified +by the resources of modern science in war, the +magic, the demons, the unseen, unimagined messengers +of death. +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_148">[Pg 148]</a></span></p> + +<p>But the men who attacked the Kangma post, +what parallel in history have we for these? They +came by night many miles over steep mountain +cliffs and rocky ravines, perhaps silently, with +determined purpose, weighing the odds; or, as +I like to think, boastfully, with song and jest, +saying, 'We will steal in upon these English at +dawn before they wake, and slay them in their +beds. Then we will hold the fort, and kill all +who come near.'</p> + +<p>They came in the gray before dawn, and hid +in a gully beside our camp. At five the reveillé +sounded and the sentry left the bastions. Then +they sprang up and rushed, sword in hand, their +rifles slung behind their backs, to the wall. The +whole attack was directed on the south-east front, +an unscalable wall of solid masonry, with bastions +at each corner four feet thick and ten feet high. +They directed their attack on the bastions, the +only point on that side they could scramble over. +They knew nothing of the fort and its tracing. +Perhaps they had expected to find us encamped +in tents on the open ground. But from the shallow +nullah where they lay concealed, not 200 yards +distant, and watched our sentry, they could survey +the uncompromising front which they had +set themselves to attack with the naked sword. +They had no artillery or guncotton or materials +for a siege, but they hoped to scale the wall and +annihilate the garrison that held it. They had +come from Lhasa to take Kangma, and they +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_149">[Pg 149]</a></span> +were not going to turn back. They came on undismayed, +like men flushed with victory. The +sepoys said they must be drunk or drugged. They +rushed to the bottom of the wall, tore out stones, +and flung them up at our sepoys; they leapt up +to seize the muzzles of our rifles, and scrambled +to gain a foothold and lift themselves on to the +parapet; they fell bullet-pierced, and some turned +savagely on the wall again. It was only a question +of time, of minutes, and the cool mechanical +fire of the 23rd Pioneers would have dropped every +man. One hundred and six bodies were left under +the wall, and sixty more were killed in the pursuit. +Never was there such a hopeless, helpless struggle, +such desperate and ineffectual gallantry.</p> + +<p>Almost before it was light the yak corps with +their small escort of thirty rifles of the 2nd +Gurkhas were starting on the road to Kalatso. +They had passed the hiding-place of the Tibetans +without noticing the 500 men in rusty-coloured +cloaks breathing quietly among the brown stones. +Then the Tibetans made their charge, just as the +transport had passed, and a party of them made +for the yaks. Two Tibetan drivers in our service +stood directly in their path. 'Who are you?' +cried one of the enemy. 'Only yak-drivers,' was +the frightened answer. 'Then, take that,' the +Tibetan said, slashing at his arm with no intent +to kill. The Gurkha escort took up a position +behind a sangar and opened fire—all save one +man, who stood by his yak and refused to come +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_150">[Pg 150]</a></span> +under cover, despite the shouts and warnings of +his comrades. He killed several, but fell himself, +hacked to pieces with swords. The Tibetans +were driven off, and joined the rout from the +fort. The whole affair lasted less than ten +minutes.</p> + +<p>Our casualties were: the isolated Gurkha killed, +two men in the fort wounded by stones, and three +of the 2nd Gurkhas severely wounded—two by +sword-cuts, one by a bullet in the neck.</p> + +<p>But what was the flame that smouldered in +these men and lighted them to action? They +might have been Paladins or Crusaders. But the +Buddhists are not fanatics. They do not stake +eternity on a single existence. They have no +Mahdis or Juggernaut cars. The Tibetans, we +are told, are not patriots. Politicians say that +they want us in their country, that they are priest-ridden, +and hate and fear their Lamas. What, +then, drove them on? It was certainly not fear. +No people on earth have shown a greater contempt +for death. Their Lamas were with them until the +final assault. Twenty shaven polls were found +hiding in the nullah down which the Tibetans had +crept in the dark, and were immediately despatched. +What promises and cajoleries and +threats the holy men used no one will ever know. +But whatever the alternative, their simple followers +preferred death.</p> + +<p>The second phase of the operations, in which we +had to act on the defensive in Gyantse, and the +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_151">[Pg 151]</a></span> +beginning of the third phase, which saw the arrival +of reinforcements and the collapse of the Tibetan +opposition, are described by an eye-witness in the +next two chapters. During the whole of these +operations I was invalided in Darjeeling, owing to +a second operation which had to be performed on +my amputation wound.</p> +</div> + +<div class="chapter" id="chapter_9"> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_152">[Pg 152]</a></span></p> +<h2><a id="CHAPTER_IX"></a><span>CHAPTER IX</span> + +<small>GYANTSE</small></h2> + +<p class="center">[<span class="smcap">By Henry Newman</span>]</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">Gyantse Plain</span> lies at the intersection of four +great valleys running almost at right angles to +one another. In the north-eastern corner there +emerge two gigantic ridges of sandstone. On one +is built the jong, and on the other the monastery. +The town fringes the base of the jong, and creeps +into the hollow between the two ridges. The +plain, about six miles by ten, is cultivated almost +to the last inch, if we except a few stony patches +here and there. There are, I believe, thirty-three +villages in the plain. These are built in the midst +of groves of poplar and willow. At one time, no +doubt, the waters from the four valleys united to +form a lake. Now they have found an outlet, +and flow peacefully down Shigatze way. High up +on the cold mountains one sees the cold bleached +walls of the Seven Monasteries, some of them +perched on almost inaccessible cliffs, whence they +look sternly down on the warmth and prosperity +below.</p> + +<p>For centuries the Gyantse folk had lived self-contained +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_153">[Pg 153]</a></span> +and happy, practising their simple arts +of agriculture, and but dimly aware of any world +outside their own. Then one day there marched +into their midst a column of British troops—white-faced +Englishmen, dark, lithe Gurkhas, great, +solemn, bearded Sikhs—and it was borne in upon +the wondering Gyantse men that beyond their +frontiers there existed great nations—so great, +indeed, that they ventured to dispute on equal +terms with the awful personage who ruled from +Lhasa. It is true that from time to time there +must have passed through Gyantse rumours of +war on the distant frontier. The armies that we +defeated at Guru and in the Red Idol Gorge had +camped at Gyantse on their way to and fro. +Gyantse saw and wondered at the haste of Lhasa +despatch-riders. But I question whether any +Gyantse man realized that events, great and +shattering in his world, were impending when +the British column rounded the corner of Naini +Valley.</p> + +<p>At first we were received without hostility, or +even suspicion. The ruined jong, uninhabited +save for a few droning Lamas, was surrendered +as soon as we asked for it. A clump of buildings +in a large grove near the river was rented +without demur—though at a price—to the Commission. +And when the country-people found +that there was a sale for their produce, they +flocked to the camp to sell. The entry of the +British troops made no difference to the peace +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_154">[Pg 154]</a></span> +of Gyantse till the Lamas of Lhasa embarked +on the fatal policy of levying more troops in +Lhasa, Shigatze, and far-away Kham, and sending +them down to fight. Then there entered the +peaceful valley all the horrors of war—dead and +maimed men in the streets and houses, burning +villages, death and destruction of all kinds. +Gyantse Plain and the town became scenes of +desolation. To the British army in India war, +unfortunately, is nothing new, but one can +imagine what an upheaval this business of +which I am about to write meant to people who +for generations had lived in peace.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<a id="fp154"></a><a href="images/fp154.jpg"> +<img src="images/fp154s.jpg" alt="" title="" /></a> +<span class="caption"><br />Gyantse Jong.</span> +</div> + +<p>The incidents connected with the arrival of the +mission with its escort at Gyantse need not be +described in detail. On the day of arrival we +camped in the midst of some fallow fields about +two miles from the jong. The same afternoon a +Chinese official, who called himself 'General' Ma, +came into camp with the news that the jong was +unoccupied, and that the local Tibetans did not +propose to offer any resistance. The next morning +we took quiet possession of the jong, placing +two companies of Pioneers in garrison. The +General with a small escort visited the monastery +behind the fort, and was received with friendliness +by the venerable Abbot. Neither the villagers nor +the towns-people showed any signs of resentment +at our presence. The Jongpen actively interested +himself in the question of procuring an official residence +for Colonel Younghusband and the members +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_155">[Pg 155]</a></span> +of the mission. There were reports of the Dalai +Lama's representatives coming in haste to treat. +Altogether the outlook was so promising that +nobody was surprised when, after a stay of a +week, General Macdonald, bearing in mind the +difficulty of procuring supplies for the whole force, +announced his intention of returning to Chumbi +with the larger portion of the escort, leaving a +sufficient guard with the mission.</p> + +<p>The guard left behind consisted of four +companies of the 32nd Pioneers, under Colonel +Brander; four companies of the 8th Gurkhas, +under Major Row; the 1st Mounted Infantry, +under Captain Ottley; and the machine-gun +section of the Norfolks, under Lieutenant Hadow. +Mention should also be made of the two 7-pounder +mountain-guns attached to the 8th Gurkhas, +under the command of Captain Luke.</p> + +<p>Before the General left for Chumbi he decided +to evacuate the jong. The grounds on which +this decision was come to were that the whole +place was in a ruinous and dangerous condition, +the surroundings were insanitary, there was only +one building fit for human habitation, the water-supply +was bad and deficient, and there seemed +to be no prospect of further hostilities. Besides, +from the military point of view there was some +risk in splitting up the small guard to be left +behind between the jong and the mission post. +However, the precaution was taken of further +dismantling the jong. The gateways and such +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_156">[Pg 156]</a></span> +portions as seemed capable of lending themselves +to defence were blown up.</p> + +<p>The house, or, rather, group of houses, rented +by Colonel Younghusband for the mission was +situated about 100 yards from a well-made stone +bridge over the river. A beautiful grove, mostly +of willow, extended behind the post along the +banks of the river to a distance of about 500 yards. +The jong lay about 1,800 yards to the right front. +There were two houses in the intervening space, +built amongst fields of iris and barley. Small +groups of trees were dotted here and there. Altogether, +the post was located in a spot as pleasant +as one could hope to find in Tibet.</p> + +<p>For some days before the General left, all the +troops were engaged in putting the post in a +state of defence. It was found that the force +to be left behind could be easily located within +the perimeter of a wall built round the group +of houses. There was no room, however, for +200 mules and their drivers, needed for convoy +purposes. These were placed in a kind of hornwork +thrown out to the right front.</p> + +<p>After the departure of the General we resigned +ourselves to what we conceived would be a monotonous +stay at Gyantse of two or three months, +pending the signing of the treaty. The people +continued to be perfectly friendly. A market was +established outside the post, to which practically +the whole bazaar from Gyantse town was removed. +We were able to buy in the market, very cheap, +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_157">[Pg 157]</a></span> +the famous Gyantse carpets, for which enormous +prices are demanded at Darjeeling and elsewhere +in India. Unarmed officers wandered freely about +Gyantse town, and the monks of Palkhor Choide, +the monastery behind the fort, willingly conducted +parties over the most sacred spots. They even +readily sold some of the images before the altars, +and the silk screens which shrouded the forms +of the gigantic Buddhas. I mention these facts +about the carpets and images because, when hereafter +they adorned Simla and Darjeeling drawing-rooms, +unkind people began to say that British +officers had wantonly looted Palkhor Choide, one +of the most famous monasteries in Tibet.</p> + +<p>A little shooting was to be had, and officers +wandered about the plain, gun in hand, bringing +home mountain-hare—a queer little beast with a +blue rump—duck, and pigeon. Occasionally an +excursion up one of the side valleys would result +in the shooting of a burhel or of a Tibetan gazelle. +The country-people met with were all perfectly +friendly.</p> + +<p>Another feature of those first few peaceful days +at Gyantse was the eagerness with which the +Tibetans availed themselves of the skilled medical +attendance with the mission. At first only one +or two men wounded at the Red Idol Gorge were +brought in, but the skill of Captain Walton, Indian +Medical Service, soon began to be noised abroad, +and every morning the little outdoor dispensary +was crowded with sufferers of all kinds. +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_158">[Pg 158]</a></span></p> + +<p>But during the last week in May reports began +to reach Colonel Younghusband that, so far from +attempting to enter into negociations, the Lhasa +Government was levying an army in Kham, and +that already five or six hundred men were camped +on the other side of the Karo la, and were busily +engaged in building a wall. Lieutenant Hodgson +with a small force was sent to reconnoitre. He +came back with the news that the wall was already +built, stretching from one side of the valley to the +other, and that there were several thousand well-armed +men behind it. Both Colonel Younghusband +and Colonel Brander considered it highly +necessary that this gathering should be immediately +dispersed, for it is a principle in Indian +frontier warfare to strike quickly at any tribal +assembly, in order to prevent it growing into +dangerous proportions. The possibly exciting +effect the force on the Karo la might have on the +inhabitants of Gyantse had particularly to be considered. +Accordingly, on May 3 Colonel Brander +led the major portion of the Gyantse garrison +towards the Karo la, leaving behind as a guard to +the post two companies of Gurkhas, a company +of the 32nd Pioneers, and a few mounted infantry, +all under the command of Major Murray.</p> + +<p>I accompanied the Karo la column, and must +rely on hearsay as to my facts with regard to the +attack on the mission. We heard about the +attack the night before Colonel Brander drove +the Tibetans from their wall on the Karo la, after +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_159">[Pg 159]</a></span> +a long fight which altered all our previous conceptions +of the fighting qualities of the Tibetans. +The courage shown by the enemy naturally +excited apprehension about the safety of the +mission. Colonel Brander did not stay to rest +his troops after their day of arduous fighting, but +began his return march next morning, arriving at +Gyantse on the 9th.</p> + +<p>The column had been warned that it was likely +to be fired on from the jong if it entered camp by +the direct Lhasa road. Accordingly, we marched +in by a circuitous route, moving in under cover +of the grove previously mentioned. The Maxims +and guns came into action at the edge of the +grove to cover the baggage. But, though numbers +of Tibetans were seen on the walls of the jong, +not a shot was fired.</p> + +<p>We then learnt the story of the attack on the +post. It appears that the day after Colonel +Brander left for the Karo la (May 3) certain +wounded and sick Tibetans that we had been +attending informed the mission that about 1,000 +armed men had come down towards Gyantse +from Shigatze, and were building a wall about +twelve miles away. It was added that they might +possibly attack the post if they got to know that +the garrison had been largely depleted. This +news seemed to be worth inquiring into, and, +accordingly, next day Major Murray sent some +mounted infantry to reconnoitre up the Shigatze +road. The latter returned with the information +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_160">[Pg 160]</a></span> +that they had gone up the valley some seven or +eight miles, but had found no signs of any enemy.</p> + +<p>The very next morning the post was attacked +at dawn. It appears that the Shigatze force, +about 1,000 strong, was really engaged in building +a wall twelve miles away. Hearing that very +few troops were guarding the mission, its commander—who, +I hear, was none other than +Khomba Bombu, the very man who arrested +Sven Hedin's dash to Lhasa—determined to +make a sudden attack on the post. He marched +his men during the night, and about an hour +before sunrise had them crouching behind trees +and inside ditches all round the post.</p> + +<p>The attack was sudden and simultaneous. A +Gurkha sentry had just time to fire off his rifle +before the Tibetans rushed to our walls and had +their muskets through our loopholes. The enemy +did not for the moment attempt to scale, but contented +themselves with firing into the post through +the loopholes they had taken. This delay proved +fatal to their plans, for it gave the small garrison +time to rise and arm. The brunt of the Tibetan +fire was directed on the courtyard of the house +where the tents of the members of the mission +were pitched. Major Murray, who had rushed +out of bed half clad, first directed his attention +to this spot. The Sikhs, emerging from their +tents with bandolier and rifle, in extraordinary +costumes, were directed towards the loopholes. +Some were sent on the roof of the mission-house, +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_161">[Pg 161]</a></span> +whence they could enfilade the attackers. Elsewhere +various junior officers had taken command. +Captain Luke, who, owing to sickness, had not +gone on with the Karo la column, took charge of +the Gurkhas on the south and west fronts. Lieutenant +Franklin, the medical officer of the 8th +Gurkhas, rallied Gurkhas and Pioneers to the +loopholes on the east and north. Lieutenant +Lynch, the treasure-chest officer, who had a guard +of about twenty Gurkhas, took his men to the +main gate to the south. There were at this time +in hospital about a dozen Sikhs, who had been +badly burnt in a lamentable gunpowder explosion +a few days previously. These men, bandaged +and crippled as they were, rose from their couches, +made their painful way to the tops of the houses, +and fired into the enemy below. About a dozen +Tibetans had just begun to scramble over the +wall by the time the defenders had manned the +whole position, which was now not only held by +fighting men, but by various members of the +mission, including Colonel Younghusband, who +had emerged with revolvers and sporting guns. +A few of the enemy got inside the defences, and +were immediately shot down.</p> + +<p>Our fire was so heavy and so well directed that +it is supposed that not more than ten minutes +elapsed from the time the first shot was fired +to the time the enemy began to withdraw. The +withdrawal, however, was only to the shelter of +trees and ditches a few hundred yards away, +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_162">[Pg 162]</a></span> +whence a long but almost harmless fusillade was +kept up on the post. After about twenty minutes +of this firing, Major Murray determined on a rally. +Lieutenant Lynch with his treasure guard dashed +out from the south gate. Some five-and-twenty +Tibetans were discovered hiding in a small refuse +hut about fifteen yards from the gate. The +furious Gurkhas rushed in upon them and killed +them all, and then dashed on through the long +grove, clearing the enemy in front of them. Returning +along the banks of the river, the same +party discovered another body of Tibetans hiding +under the arches of the bridge. Twenty or thirty +were shot down, and about fifteen made prisoners. +Similar success attended a rally from the north-east +gate made by Major Murray and Lieutenant +Franklin. The enemy fled howling from their +hiding-places towards the town and jong as soon +as they saw our men issue. They were pursued +almost to the very walls of the fort. Indeed, but +for the fringe of houses and narrow streets at the +base of the jong, Major Murray would have gone +on. The Tibetans, however, turned as soon as +they reached the shelter of walls, and it would +have been madness to attack five or six hundred +determined men in a maze of alleys and passages +with only a weak company. Major Murray accordingly +made his way back to the post, picking +up a dozen prisoners <i>en route</i>.</p> + +<p>In this affair our casualties only amounted to +five wounded and two killed. One hundred and +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_163">[Pg 163]</a></span> +forty dead of the enemy were counted outside the +camp.</p> + +<p>During the course of the day Major Murray sent +a flag of truce to the jong with an intimation to +the effect that the Tibetans could come out and +bury their dead without fear of molestation. The +reply was that we could bury the dead ourselves +without fear of molestation. As it was impossible +to leave all the bodies in the vicinity of the camp, +a heavy and disagreeable task was thrown on the +garrison.</p> + +<p>Towards sundown the enemy in the jong began +to fire into the camp, and our troops became +aware of the unpleasant fact that the Tibetans +possessed jingals, which could easily range from +1,800 to 2,000 yards. It was also realized that +the jong entirely dominated the post; that our +walls and stockades, protection enough against +a direct assault from the plain, were no protection +against bullets dropped from a height. +So for the next four days, pending the return of +the Karo la column, the little garrison toiled unceasingly +at improving the defences. Traverses +were built, the walls raised in height, the +gates strengthened. It was discovered that the +Tibetan fire was heaviest when we attempted to +return it by sniping at figures seen on the jong. +Accordingly, pending the completion of the traverses +and other new protective works, Major +Murray forbade any return fire.</p> + +<p>Such was the position of affairs when the Karo la +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_164">[Pg 164]</a></span> +column returned. One of Colonel Brander's first +acts, after his weary troops had rested for an hour +or two, was to turn the Maxim on the groups who +could be seen wandering about the jong. They +quickly disappeared under cover, but only to man +their jingals. Then began the bombardment of +the post, which we had to endure for nearly seven +weeks.</p> + +<p>This is the place to speak of the bombardment +generally, for it would be tedious to recapitulate +in the form of a diary incidents which, however +exciting at the time, now seem remarkable only +for their monotony. It may be said at once that +the bombardment was singularly ineffective. +From first to last only fifteen men in the post +were hit. Of these twelve were either killed or +died of the wound. Of course, I exclude the +casualties in the fighting, of which I will presently +speak, outside the post. But the futility of the +bombardment must not be entirely put down to +bad marksmanship on the part of the Tibetans. +That our losses were not heavier is largely due to +the fact that the garrison laboured daily—and at +first at night also—in erecting protecting walls +and traverses. Practically every tent had a +traverse built in front of it. It was found that +the hornwork in which the mules were located +came particularly under fire of the jong. This +was pulled down one dark night, and the mules +transferred to a fresh enclosure at the back of the +post. Strong parapets of sand-bags were built on +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_165">[Pg 165]</a></span> +the roofs of the houses. Every window facing the +jong was securely blocked with mud bricks. It +will be realized how considerable was the labour +involved in building the traverses when it is +remembered that the jong looked down into the +post. The majority of the walls had to be considerably +higher than the tents themselves. They +were mostly built of stakes cut from the grove, +with two feet of earth rammed in between. After +the first week or so the enemy brought to bear on +the post several brass cannon, throwing balls +weighing four or five pounds, and travelling with +a velocity which enabled them to penetrate our +traverses—when they struck them, for the majority +of shots from the cannon whistled harmlessly over +our heads.</p> + +<p>Practically, we did not return the fire from the +jong. All that was done in this direction was to +place one of Lieutenant Hadow's Maxims on the +roof of the house occupied by the mission, and +thence to snipe during the daylight hours at any +warriors who showed themselves above the walls +of the jong. Hadow was very patient and persistent +with his gun, and quickly made it clear to +the Tibetans that, if we were obliged to keep under +cover, so were they. But our fire from the post +was probably as ineffective as that of the enemy +from the jong, for the Tibetans build walls with +extraordinary rapidity. Working mostly at night +in order to avoid the malignant Maxim, the enemy +within a few days almost altered the face of the +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_166">[Pg 166]</a></span> +jong. New walls, traverses, and covered ways +seemed to spring up with the rapidity of mushrooms.</p> + +<p>Our life during the siege, if so the bombardment +can be called, was hardly as unpleasant as people +might imagine. To begin with, we were never +short of food—that is to say, of Tibetan barley +and meat. The commissariat stock of tea—a +necessity in Tibet—also never gave out. From +time to time also convoys and parcel-posts with +little luxuries came through. Again, the longest +period for which we were without a letter-post +was eight days. Socially, the relations of the +officers with one another and with the members +of the Commission were most harmonious. I make +a point of mentioning this fact, because all those +who have had any experience of sieges, or of +similar conditions where small communities are +shut up together in circumstances of hardship and +danger, know how apt the temper is to get on +edge, how often small differences are likely to give +rise to bitter animosities. But we had in the +Gyantse garrison men of such vast experience and +geniality as Colonel Brander, of such high culture +and attainment as Colonel Younghusband, Captain +O'Connor, and Mr. Perceval Landon—the correspondent +of <i>The Times</i>; men whose spirits never +failed, and who found humour in everything, such +as Major Row, Captain Luke, Captain Coleridge, +Lieutenant Franklin. Amongst the besieged +was Colonel Waddell, I.M.S., an Orientalist and +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_167">[Pg 167]</a></span> +Sinologist of European fame. Hence, in some +of its aspects the Gyantse siege was almost a +delightful episode. In the later days, when all +the outpost fighting occurred, our spirits were +somewhat damped, for we had to mourn brave +men killed and sympathize with others dangerously +wounded.</p> + +<p>Of course, one of the first questions for consideration +when the Karo la column returned to +Gyantse was whether the enemy could or could +not be turned out of the jong. To make a +frontal attack on the frowning face overlooking +the post would have been foolhardy, but Colonel +Brander decided to make a reconnaissance to a +monastery on the high hills to our right, whence +the jong itself could be overlooked. A subsidiary +reason for visiting this monastery was that it was +known to have afforded shelter to a number of +those who had fled from the attack on the post. +The hill was climbed with every military precaution, +but only a few old monks were found in +occupation of the buildings. More disappointing +was the fact that an examination through telescopes +of the rear of the jong showed that the +Tibetans had been also building indefatigably +there. A strong loopholed wall ran zigzagging up +the side of the rock. It was clear that nothing +could be done till the General returned from +Chumbi with more troops and guns.</p> + +<p>For more than two weeks our rear remained +absolutely open. The post, carried by mounted +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_168">[Pg 168]</a></span> +infantry, came in and went out regularly. Two +large convoys reached us unopposed. The only +danger lay in the fact that people seen entering +or leaving the post came under a heavy fire from +the jong. To minimize risks, departures from the +post were always made before dawn.</p> + +<p>During the two weeks streams of men could be +seen entering the jong from both the Shigatze and +Lhasa roads. Emboldened by numbers, and also +by our non-aggressive attitude, the enemy began +to cast about for means of taking the post. One +of the first steps taken by the Tibetan General in +pursuance of this policy was to occupy during the +night a small house surrounded by trees, lying to +our left front, almost midway between the jong +and the post. On the morning of the 18th bullets +from a new direction were whizzing in amongst +us, and partly enfilading our traverses. This was +not to be tolerated, and the same night arrangements +were made for the capture of the position.</p> + +<p>Five companies stole out during the hours of +darkness and surrounded the house. The rush, +delivered at dawn, was left to the Gurkhas. But +the entrance was found blocked with stones, and +the enemy was thoroughly awake by the time the +Gurkhas were under the wall. Luckily, the loopholes +were not so constructed as to allow the +Tibetans to fire their jingals down upon our men, +who had only to bear the brunt of showers of +stones thrown upon them from the roof. The +shower was well directed enough to bruise a +good many Gurkhas. Three officers were struck +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_169">[Pg 169]</a></span>— +Major Murray, Lieutenant Lynch, and Lieutenant +Franklin, I.M.S. Whilst the Gurkhas were +striving to effect an entrance, the Pioneer companies +deployed on the flanks came under +a heavy fire from the jong. We had three men +hit. One fell on a bit of very exposed ground, +and was gallantly dragged under cover by Colonel +Brander and Captain Minogue, Staff officer.</p> + +<p>It was soon evident that the Gurkhas would +never get in without explosives. Accordingly, Lieutenant +Gurdon, 32nd Pioneers, was sent to join +them with a box of guncotton. Gurdon speedily +blew a hole through the wall, and the Gurkhas +dashed in yelling. The Tibetans on the roof could +easily at this time have jumped off and escaped +towards the jong. But they chose a braver part. +They slid down into the middle of the courtyard, +and, drawing their swords, awaited the Gurkha +onset. I must not describe the pitiful struggle +that followed. The Tibetans—about fifty in +number—herded themselves together as if to +meet a bayonet charge, but our troops, rushing +through the door, extended themselves along the +edges of the courtyard, and emptied their magazines +into the mob. Within a minute all the fifty +were either dead or mortally wounded.</p> + +<p>The house was hereafter held by a company of +Gurkhas all through the bombardment, and proved +a great thorn in the side of the enemy; for the +Gurkhas often used to sally out at night and +ambuscade parties of men and convoys on the +Shigatze road.</p> +</div> + +<div class="chapter" id="chapter_10"> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_170">[Pg 170]</a></span></p> +<h2><a id="CHAPTER_X"></a><span>CHAPTER X</span> + +<small>GYANTSE—<i>continued</i></small></h2> + +<p class="center">[<span class="smcap">By Henry Newman</span>]</p> + +<p><span class="smcap">On</span> the afternoon of the day on which the house +was taken we were provided with a new excitement—continuous +firing was heard to the rear of +the post about a mile away. Captain Ottley +galloped out with his mounted infantry, and +was only just in time to save a party of his men +who were coming up from Kangma with the +letter-bags. These Sikhs—eight in number—were +riding along the edge of the river, when they were +met by a fusillade from a number of the enemy +concealed amongst sedges on the opposite bank. +Before the Sikhs could take cover, one man was +killed, three wounded, and seven out of the eight +horses shot down. The remaining men showed +rare courage. They carried their wounded comrades +under cover of a ditch, untied and brought +to the same place the letter-bags, and then lay +down and returned the fire of the enemy. The +Tibetans, however, were beginning to creep round, +and the ammunition of the Sikhs was running low, +when Captain Ottley dashed up to the rescue. +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_171">[Pg 171]</a></span> +Without waiting to consider how many of the +enemy might be hiding in the sedge, Ottley took +his twenty men splashing through the river. +Nearly 300 Tibetans bolted out in all directions +like rabbits from a cover. The mounted infantry, +shooting and smiting, chased them to the very +edge of the plain. On reaching hilly ground the +enemy, who must have lost about fifty of their +number, began to turn, having doubtless realized +that they were running before a handful of men. +At the same time shots were fired from villages, +previously thought unoccupied, on Ottley's left, +and a body of matchlock men were seen running +up to reinforce from a large village on the Lhasa +road. Under these conditions it would have been +madness to continue the fight, and Ottley cleverly +and skilfully withdrew without having lost a +single man. In the meanwhile a company of +Pioneers had brought in the men wounded in the +attack on the postal riders.</p> + +<p>This affair was even more significant than the +occupation by the enemy of the position taken by +the Gurkhas in the early morning. It showed +that the Tibetan General had at last conceived a +plan for cutting off our line of communications. +This was a rude shock. It implied that the +enemy had received reinforcements which were to +be utilized for offensive warfare of the kind most +to be feared by an invader. We knew that so +long as our ammunition lasted there was absolutely +no danger of the post being captured. +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_172">[Pg 172]</a></span> +But an enemy on the lines would certainly cause +the greatest annoyance to, and might even cut +off, our convoys. As it would be very difficult +to get messages through, apprehensions as to +our safety would be excited in the outer world. +Further, General Macdonald's arrangements for +the relief of the mission would have to be considerably +modified if he were obliged to fight his +way through to us.</p> + +<p>With the same prompt decision that marked his +action with regard to the gathering on the Karo la, +Colonel Brander determined on the very next day +to clear the villages found occupied by the mounted +infantry. As far as could be discovered, the +villages were five in number, all on the right bank +of the river, and occupying a position which could +be roughly outlined as an equilateral triangle. +Captain Ottley was sent round to the rear of the +villages to cut off the retreat of the enemy; Captain +Luke took his two mountain-guns, under cover of +the right bank of the river, to a position whence he +could support the infantry attack, if necessary, by +shell fire. Two companies of Pioneers with one +in reserve were sent forward to the attack.</p> + +<p>The first objective was two villages forming the +base of the triangle of which I have spoken. The +troops advanced cautiously, widely extended, but +both villages were found deserted. They were set +on fire. Then Captain Hodgson with a company +went forward to the village forming the apex of +the triangle. He came under a flanking fire from +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_173">[Pg 173]</a></span> +the villages on the left, and had one man severely +wounded. The houses in front seemed to be unoccupied, +and our right might have been swung +round to face this fire; but Colonel Brander was +determined to do the work thoroughly, and Hodgson +was directed to move on and burn the village +ahead of him before changing front. The troops +accordingly took no notice of the flanking fire, +and moved on till they were under the walls of +the two houses of which the village was composed.</p> + +<p>Suddenly fire was opened on our soldiers from +the upper windows of the two houses. All the doors +were found blocked with bricks and stones. Two +Sikhs dropped, and for the moment it seemed as +if we would lose heavily. But Lieutenant Gurdon +with half a dozen men rushed up with a box of +explosives, and blew a breach in the wall. Two +of the party helping to lay the fuse were killed by +shots fired from a loophole a few feet above. +Captain Hodgson was the first man through the +breach. He was confronted by a swordsman, who +cut hard just as Hodgson fired his revolver. The +man fell dead, but Hodgson received a severe +wound on the wrist. But this was the only man +who stood after the explosion. About thirty +others in the village rushed to the roofs of the +houses, jumped off, and fled to the left. They +came, however, under a very heavy fire as they +were running away, and the majority dropped.</p> + +<p>Preparations were now made for taking the remaining +village. This was protected by a high +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_174">[Pg 174]</a></span> +loopholed embankment, which sheltered about +five or six hundred of the enemy. The Pioneers +had just extended, and were advancing, when +someone who happened to be looking at the jong +through his glasses suddenly uttered a loud exclamation. +Turning round, we all saw a dense +stream of men, several thousands in number, +forming up at the base of the rock, evidently +with the intention of rushing the mission post +whilst the majority of the garrison and the guns +were engaged elsewhere. Colonel Brander immediately +gave the order for the whole force to +retire into the post at the double. The withdrawal +was effected before the Tibetans made +their contemplated rush, but we all felt that it +was rather a narrow shave.</p> + +<p>Troops were to have gone out again the next +day to clear the village we had left untaken, +but the mounted infantry reconnoitring in the +morning reported that the enemy had fled, +and that the lines of communication were again +clear.</p> + +<p>On the succeeding day a large convoy and reinforcements +under Major Peterson, 32nd Pioneers, +came safely through. The additional troops included +a section of No. 7 (British) Mountain +Battery, under Captain Easton; one and a half +companies of Sappers and Miners, under Captain +Shepherd and Lieutenant Garstin; and another +company of the 32nd Pioneers. Major Peterson +reported that his convoy had come under a heavy +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_175">[Pg 175]</a></span> +fire from the village and monastery of Naini. +This monastery lies about seven miles from +Gyantse in an opening of the valley just before +the road turns into Gyantse Plain. It holds +about 5,000 monks. When the column first +passed by it, the monks were extremely friendly, +bringing out presents of butter and eggs, and +readily selling flour and meat. The monastery +is surrounded by a wall thirty feet high, and at +least ten feet thick. The buildings inside are +also solidly built of stone. Altogether the position +was a very difficult one to tackle, but Colonel +Brander, following his usual policy, decided that +the enemy must be turned out of it at all costs. +Accordingly, on the 24th a column, which included +Captain Easton's two guns, marched out to Naini. +But the monastery and the group of buildings outside +it were found absolutely deserted. The walls +were far too heavy and strong to be destroyed by +a small force, which had to return before nightfall, +but Captain Shepherd blew up the four towers at +the corners and a portion of the hall in which the +Buddhas were enthroned.</p> + +<p>The 27th provided a new excitement. About +1,000 yards to the right of the post stood what +was known as the Palla House, the residence of a +Tibetan nobleman of great wealth. The building +consisted of a large double-storied house, surrounded +by a series of smaller buildings, each +within a courtyard of its own. During the night +the Tibetans in the jong built a covered way +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_176">[Pg 176]</a></span> +extending about half the distance between the +jong and Palla. In the morning the latter place +was seen to be swarming with men, busily occupied +in erecting defences, making loopholes, and generally +engaged in work of a menacing character. +The enemy could less be tolerated in Palla than +in the Gurkha outpost, for fire from the former +would have taken us absolutely in the flank, and +the garrison was not strong enough to provide the +labour necessary for building an entirely new +series of traverses.</p> + +<p>That very night Colonel Brander detailed the +troops that were to take Palla by assault at +dawn. The storming-party was composed of +three companies of the 32nd under Major Peterson, +assisted by the Sappers and Miners with +explosives under Captain Shepherd. Our four +mountain-guns, the 7-pounders under Captain +Luke, and the 10-pounders under Captain Easton, +escorted by a company of Gurkhas, were detailed +to occupy a position on a ridge which overlooked +Palla. The troops fell in at two in the morning. +The night was pitch-dark, but with such care were +the operations conducted that the troops had +made a long détour, and got into their respective +positions before dawn, without an alarm being +raised.</p> + +<p>Daylight was just breaking when Captain Shepherd +crept up to the wall of the house on the +extreme left, where it was believed the majority +of the enemy were located, and laid his explosives. +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_177">[Pg 177]</a></span> +A tremendous explosion followed, the +whole side of the house falling in. A minute afterwards, +and Palla was alarmed and firing furiously +all round, and even up in the air. The jong also +awoke, and from that time till the village was +finally ours poured a continuous storm of bullets +into Palla, regardless whether friend or foe was +hit. Our guns on the ridge did their best to +quiet the jong, but without much effect. Against +Tibetan walls, provided as they are with head +cover, our experience showed shrapnel to be +almost entirely useless.</p> + +<p>A company of Pioneers followed Captain Shepherd +into the breach he had made. But they +found themselves only in a small courtyard, with +no means of entering the rest of the village, +except over or through high walls lined by the +enemy. All that could be done was to blow in +another breach. The preparations for doing this +were attended with a good deal of danger. Of +three men who attempted to rush across the +courtyard, two were killed and the third mortally +wounded. However, by creeping along under +cover of the wall, Captain Shepherd and Lieutenant +Garstin were able to lay the guncotton +and light the fuse for another explosion. They +were fired at from a distance of a few yards, but +escaped being hit by a miracle. But the second +explosion only led into another courtyard, from +which there was also no exit. There was the +same fire to be faced from the next house whilst +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_178">[Pg 178]</a></span> +the needful preparations were being made for +making a third breach.</p> + +<p>During the time Shepherd with his gallant lieutenants +and equally gallant sepoys was working +his way in from the left, the companies of Pioneers +lining ditches and banks outside Palla were exposed +to a persistent fire from about a hundred +of the enemy inside the big two-storied house +mentioned above. The men in this house—all +Kham warriors—seemed to be filled with an extraordinary +fury. Many exposed themselves boldly at +the windows, calling to our men to come on. A +dozen or so even climbed to the roof of the house, +and danced about thereon in what seemed frantic +derision. There was a Maxim on the ridge with +the mountain-guns, the fire from which put an end +to the fantastic display. Our rifle fire, however, +seemed totally unable to check the Tibetan +warriors in the loopholed windows. They kept +up a fusillade which made a rush impossible. +Major Peterson finally, with great daring, led a +few men into the dwelling on the extreme right. +The escalade was managed by means of a ruined +tree which projected from the wall. But Peterson, +like Shepherd, found himself in a courtyard +with high walls which baffled further progress.</p> + +<p>The fight now began to drag. Hours passed +without any signal incident. The Tibetans were +greatly elated at the failure of our troops to make +progress. They shouted and yelled, and were +encouraged by answering cheers from the jong. +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_179">[Pg 179]</a></span> +Then about mid-day the jong Commandant conceived +the idea of reinforcing Palla. A dozen +men mounted on black mules, followed by about +fifty infantry, suddenly dashed out from the half-completed +covered way mentioned above, and +made for the village. This party was absolutely +annihilated. As soon as it emerged from the +covered way it came under the fire, not only of +the troops round the village and on the hill, but +of the Maxim on the roof of the mission-house. +In three minutes every single man and mule was +down, except one animal with a broken leg, +gazing disconsolately at the body of its master.</p> + +<p>This disaster evidently shook the Tibetans in +Palla. Their fire slackened. Captain Luke on +the ridge was then directed to put some common +shell into the roof of the double-storied house. +He dropped the shells exactly where they were +wanted, and so disconcerted the enemy that +Shepherd was able to resume his preparations +for making a way into the Tibetan stronghold. +But he still had to face an awkward fire, and the +three further breaches he made were attended +by the loss of several men, including Lieutenant +Garstin, shot through the head. But the last +explosion led our troops into the big house. +Tibetan resistance then practically ceased. About +twenty or thirty men made an attempt to get +away to the jong, but the majority were shot +down before they could reach the covered way.</p> + +<p>In this affair our total casualties were twenty-three. +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_180">[Pg 180]</a></span> +In addition to Lieutenant Garstin, we had +seven men killed. The wounded included Captain +O'Connor, R.A., secretary to the mission, and +Lieutenant Mitchell, 32nd Pioneers. The enemy +must have lost quite 250 in killed and wounded. +The position at Palla was too important to be +abandoned, and for the rest of the bombardment +it was held by a company of Sikhs. In order to +provide free communication both day and night, +Captain Shepherd, with his usual energy, dug a +covered way from the post to the village.</p> + +<p>The fight at Palla was the last affair of any +importance in which the garrison was engaged +pending the arrival of the relieving force. The +Tibetans had received such a shock that in future +they confined themselves practically to the defensive, +if we except five half-hearted night +attacks which were never anywhere near being +pushed home. There were no more attempts to +interrupt our lines of communication, though +later on Naini was again occupied as part of the +Tibetan scheme for resisting General Macdonald's +advance. The jong Commandant devoted his +energies chiefly to strengthening his already strong +position.</p> + +<p>The night attacks were all very similar in character, +and may be summed up and dismissed in a +paragraph. Generally about midnight, bands of +Tibetans would issue from the jong and take up +their position about four or five hundred yards from +the post. Then they would shout wildly, and fire +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_181">[Pg 181]</a></span> +off their matchlocks and Martini rifles. The troops +would immediately rush to their loopholes, clad +in impossible garments, and wait shivering in the +cold, finger on trigger, for the rush that never +came. After shouting and firing for about an +hour, the Tibetans would retire to the jong and +our troops creep back to their beds. On no occasion +did the enemy come close enough to be seen +in the dark. We never fired a single shot from +the post. Twice, however, the Gurkha outpost +and the Sikhs at Palla were enabled to get in +a few volleys at Tibetans as they slunk past. +During the night attacks the jong remained silent, +except on one occasion, when there was so much +firing from the Gurkha outpost that the enemy +thought we were about to make a counter-attack. +Every jingal, musket, and rifle in the jong was +then loosed off in any and every direction. We +even heard firing in the rear of the monastery. +Although no one was hit in this wild fire, the +volume of it was ominously indicative of the +strength in which the jong was held.</p> + +<p>But even more ominous against the day when +our troops should be called upon to take the jong +were the defensive preparations mentioned above. +Nearly every morning we found that during the +night the enemy had built up a new wall or covered +way somewhere on the jong or about the village +that fringed the base of the rock. When the +fortress was fortified as strongly as Tibetan wit +could devise, the jong Commandant began to +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_182">[Pg 182]</a></span> +fortify and place in a position of defence the +villages and monasteries on his right and left. +It was calculated that, from the small monastery +perched on the hills to his left to Tsechen Monastery +on a ridge to his right, the Tibetan General +had occupied and fortified a position with nearly +seven miles of front.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<a id="fp182-1"></a><a href="images/fp182-1.jpg"> +<img src="images/fp182-1s.jpg" alt="" title="" /></a> +<span class="caption"><br />Golden-roofed Temple, Gyantse.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<a id="fp182-2"></a><a href="images/fp182-2.jpg"> +<img src="images/fp182-2s.jpg" alt="" title="" /></a> +<span class="caption"><br />Buddhas in Palkhor Choide.</span> +</div> + +<p>Whilst the Tibetans were engaged in making +these preparations, our garrison was busy collecting +forage for the enormous number of animals +coming up with the relief column. Our rear being +absolutely open, small parties with mules were +able to collect quantities of hay from villages +within a radius of seven miles behind us. It was +the fire opened on these parties when they attempted +to push to the right or left of the jong +which first revealed to us the full extent of the +defensive position occupied by the enemy.</p> + +<p>On June 6 Colonel Younghusband left the post +with a returning convoy, in order to confer with +the General at Chumbi. This convoy was attacked +whilst halting at the entrenched post at +Kangma. The enemy in this instance came down +from the Karo la, and it is for this reason that I +do not include the Kangma attack amongst the +operations at and around Gyantse.</p> + +<p>It was not till June 15 that we got definite news +of the approaching advance of the relief column. +Reinforcements had come up to Chumbi from +India in the interval, and the General was accompanied +by the 2nd Mounted Infantry under Captain +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_183">[Pg 183]</a></span> +Peterson, No. 7 British Mountain Battery +under Major Fuller, a section of No. 30 Native +Mountain Battery under Captain Marindin, four +companies of the Royal Fusiliers under Colonel +Cooper, four companies of the 40th Pathans under +Colonel Burn, five companies of the 23rd Pioneers +under Colonel Hogge, and the two remaining companies +of the 8th Gurkhas under Colonel Kerr, +together with the usual medical and other details.</p> + +<p>The force arrived at Kangma on June 23. On +the 25th a party of mounted infantry from Gyantse +met Captain Peterson's mounted infantry reconnoitring +at the monastery of Naini, previously +mentioned. Whilst greetings were being exchanged +a sudden fire was opened on our men +from the monastery, which the enemy had apparently +occupied and fortified during the night. +The position was apparently held in strength, and +the mounted infantry had no other course except +to retire to their respective camps. Captain +Peterson had one man mortally wounded.</p> + +<p>On the evening of the 26th the sentries at the +mission post saw about twenty mounted men, +followed by two or three hundred infantry, issue +from the rear of the jong and creep up the hills +on our left in the direction of Naini. It was +evident that a determined effort was to be made +at the monastery to check the advance of the +relief column, which was expected at Gyantse +next day. Colonel Brander came to the conclusion +that he had found an opportunity for catching +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_184">[Pg 184]</a></span> +the Tibetans in a trap. He determined to +send out a force which would block the retreat of +the enemy when they retired before the advance +of the relief column. Accordingly, before dawn +four companies of Pioneers, four guns, and the +Maxim gun left the post, and ascended the hills +overlooking the monastery. Captain Ottley's +mounted infantry were directed to close the road +leading directly from Gyantse to the monastery.</p> + +<p>Colonel Brander's forces were in position some +hours before the mounted infantry of the relief +column appeared in sight. It was discovered that +the enemy not only held the monastery, but some +ruined towers on the hill above, and a cluster of +one-storied dwellings in a grove below. Captain +Peterson with his mounted infantry appeared in +front of the monastery at eleven o'clock. He +had with him a company of the 40th Pathans, +and his orders were to clear the monastery with +this small force, if the enemy made no signs of a +stubborn resistance. Otherwise he was to await +the arrival of more troops with the mountain-guns.</p> + +<p>Peterson delivered his attack from the left, +having dismounted his troopers, who, together +with the 40th Pathans, were soon very hotly +engaged. The troops came under a heavy fire +both from the monastery and from a ruined +tower above it, but advanced most gallantly. +When under the walls of the monastery, they +were checked for some time by the difficulty of +finding a way in. In the meanwhile, hearing the +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_185">[Pg 185]</a></span> +heavy firing, the General and his Staff, followed +by Major Fuller's battery and the rest of the +40th, had hastened up. The battery came into +action against the tower, and the 40th rushed up +in support of their comrades. Colonel Brander's +guns and Maxim on the top of the hill were also +brought into play. For nearly an hour a furious +cannonade and fusillade raged. Then the Pathans +and Peterson's troopers, circling round the walls +of the monastery, found a ramp up which they +could climb. They swarmed up, and were quickly +inside the building. But the Tibetans had realized +that their retreat was cut off, and, instead of +making a clean bolt for it, only retired slowly from +room to room and passage to passage. Two companies +of the 23rd were sent up to assist in clearing +the monastery. It proved a perfect warren of dark +cells and rooms. The Tibetan resistance lasted +for over two hours. Bands of desperate swordsmen +were found in knots under trap-doors and +behind sharp turnings. They would not surrender, +and had to be killed by rifle shots fired at +a distance of a few feet.</p> + +<p>While the monastery was being cleared, another +fight had developed in the cluster of dwellings outside +it to the right. From this spot Tibetan riflemen +were enfilading our troops held in reserve. +The remaining companies of the 23rd were sent +to clear away the enemy. They took three houses, +but could not effect an entrance into the fourth, +which was very strongly barricaded. Lieutenant +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_186">[Pg 186]</a></span> +Turnbull, walking up to a window with a section, +had three men hit in a few seconds. One man fell +directly under the window. Turnbull carried him +into safety in the most gallant fashion. Then the +General ordered up the guns, which fired into the +house at a range of a few hundred yards. But not +till it was riddled with great gaping holes made by +common shell did the fire from the house cease.</p> + +<p>At about three o'clock the Tibetan resistance +had completely died away, and the column resumed +its march towards Gyantse, which was not +reached till dark. But as the transport was +making its slow way past Naini, about half a +dozen Tibetans who had remained in hiding in +the monastery and village opened fire on it. The +Gurkha rearguard had a troublesome task in +clearing these men out, and lost one man killed.</p> + +<p>In this affair at Naini our casualties were six +killed and nine wounded, including Major Lye, +23rd Pioneers, who received a severe sword-cut +in the hand.</p> + +<p>The General's camp was pitched about a mile +from the mission post, well out of range of the +jong, though our troops whilst crossing the river +came under fire from some of the bigger jingals. +The next day was one of rest, which the troops +badly needed after their long march from Chumbi. +The Tibetans in the jong also refrained from firing. +On the 29th the General began the operations intended +to culminate in the capture of the jong. +His objective was Tsechen Monastery, on the extreme +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_187">[Pg 187]</a></span> +left. But before the monastery could be +attacked, some twelve fortified villages between +it and the river had to be cleared. It proved +a difficult task, not so much on account of the +resistance offered by the enemy—for after a few +idle shots the Tibetans quickly retired on the +monastery—as because of the nature of the ground +that had to be traversed. The whole country +was a network of deep irrigation channels and +water-cuts, in the fording and crossing of which +the troops got wet to the skin. However, by four +in the afternoon all the villages had been cleared, +and the Fusiliers were lying in a long grove under +the right front of the monastery.</p> + +<p>It was then discovered that not only was +Tsechen very strongly held, but that masses of +the enemy were lying behind the rocks on the +top of the ridge, on the summit of which there +was a ruined tower, also held by fifty or sixty +men. The General sent two companies of Gurkhas +to scale the ridge from the left, whilst the 40th +Pathans were ordered to make a direct assault on +the monastery. A hundred mounted infantry +made their way to the rear to cut off the retreat +of the enemy. Fuller and Marindin with their +guns covered the advance of the infantry. Four +Maxims were also brought into action. Our guns +made splendid practice on the top of the ridge, +and time and again we could see the enemy bolting +from cover. But with magnificent bravery +they would return to oppose the advance of the +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_188">[Pg 188]</a></span> +Gurkhas creeping round their flank. The guns +had presently to cease fire to enable the Gurkhas +to get nearer. A series of desperate little fights +then took place on the top of the ridge, the +Tibetans slinging and throwing stones when they +found they could not load their muskets quickly +enough. But as the Gurkhas would not be +stopped, the Tibetans had to move. In the +meanwhile the Pathans worked through the +monastery below, only meeting with small resistance +from a band of men in one house. The +Tibetans fled in a mass over the right edge of +the ridge into the jaws of the mounted infantry +lying in wait below. Slaughter followed.</p> + +<p>It was now quite dark, and the troops made +their way back to camp. Next morning a party +went up to Tsechen, found it entirely deserted, +and set fire to it. The taking of the monastery +cost us the lives of Captain Craster, 40th Pathans, +and two sepoys. Our wounded numbered ten, +including Captains Bliss and Humphreys, 8th +Gurkhas.</p> + +<p>On July 1 the General intended assaulting the +jong, but in the interval the jong Commandant +sent in a flag of truce. He prayed for an armistice +pending the arrival of three delegates who were +posting down from Lhasa with instructions to +make peace. As Colonel Younghusband had been +directed to lose no opportunity of bringing affairs +to an end at Gyantse, the armistice was granted, +and two days afterwards the delegates, all +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_189">[Pg 189]</a></span> +Lamas, were received in open durbar in a large +room in the mission post. Colonel Younghusband, +after having satisfied himself that the delegates +possessed proper credentials, made them a speech. +He reviewed the history of the mission, pointing +out that we had only come to Gyantse because of +the obstinacy and evasion of the Tibetan officials, +who could easily have treated with us at Khamba +Jong and again at Tuna, had they cared to. We +were perfectly willing to come to terms here, and +it rested with the peace delegates whether we went +on to Lhasa or not. Younghusband then informed +the delegates that he was prepared to open +negociations on the next day. The delegates were +due at eleven next morning, but they did not put +in an appearance till three. They were then told +that as a preliminary they must surrender the +jong by noon on the succeeding day. They +demurred a great deal, but the Commissioner was +quite firm, and they went away downcast, with +the assurance that if the jong was not surrendered +we should take it by force. Younghusband, however, +added that after the capture of the fort he +was perfectly willing to open negociations again.</p> + +<p>Next day, shortly after noon, a signal gun was +fired to indicate that the armistice was at an +end, and the General forthwith began his preparations +to storm the formidable hill fortress. +The Tibetans had taken advantage of the armistice +to build more walls and sangars. No one +could look at the bristling jong without realizing +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_190">[Pg 190]</a></span> +how difficult was the task before our troops, and +without anxiety as to the outcome of the assault +in killed and wounded. But we all knew that +the jong had to be taken, whatever the cost.</p> + +<p>Operations began in the afternoon, the General +making a demonstration against the left face of +the jong and Palkhor Choide Monastery. Fuller's +battery took up a position about 1,600 yards +from the jong. Five companies of infantry were +extended on either flank. Both the jong and +monastery opened fire on our troops, and we +had one man mortally wounded. The General's +intention, however, was only to deceive the +Tibetans into thinking that we intended to assault +from that side. As soon as dusk fell, the troops +were withdrawn and preparations made for the +real assault.</p> + +<p>The south-eastern face of the rock on which the +jong is built is most precipitous, yet this was +exactly the face which the General decided to +storm. His reasons, I imagine, were that the fringe +of houses at the base of the rock was thinnest on +this side, and that the very multiplicity of sangars +and walls that the enemy had built prevented +their having the open field of fire necessary to +stop a rush. Moreover, down the middle of the +rock ran a deep fissure or cleft, which was commanded, +the General noticed, by no tower or +loopholed wall. At two points, however, the +Tibetans had built walls across the fissure. The +first of these the General believed could be +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_191">[Pg 191]</a></span> +breached by our artillery. Our troops through +that could work their way round to either flank, +and so into the heart of the jong.</p> + +<p>The plan of operations was very simple. Before +dawn three columns were to rush the fringe of +houses at the base. Then was to follow a storm +of artillery fire directed on all the salient points +of the jong, after which our guns were to make a +breach in the lower wall across the cleft up which +the storming-party was later on to climb.</p> + +<p>The action turned out exactly as was planned, +with the exception that the fighting lasted much +longer than was expected, for the Tibetans made +a heroic resistance. The troops were astir shortly +after midnight. The night was very dark, and +the necessary deployment of the three columns +took some hours. However, an hour before dawn +the troops had begun their cautious advance, the +General and his Staff taking up their position at +Palla. The alarm was not given till our leading +files were within twenty yards of the fringe of +houses at the base of the rock. The storm of fire +which then burst from the jong was an alarming +indication of the strength in which it was held. +The heavy jingals were all directed on Palla, and +the General and his Staff had many narrow +escapes. As on the previous occasion when the +jong bombarded us at night, there were moments +when every building in it seemed outlined in +flame.</p> + +<p>Of the three columns, only that on the extreme +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_192">[Pg 192]</a></span> +left, Gurkhas under Major Murray, was able to +get in at once. The other two columns were for +the time being checked, so bullet-swept was the +open space they had to cross. From time to time +small parties of two or three dashed across in the +dark, and gained the shelter of the walls of the +houses in front. There were barely twenty men +and half a dozen officers across when Captain +Shepherd blew in the walls of the house most +strongly held. The storming-party came under +a most heavy fire from the jong above. Among +those hit was Lieutenant Gurdon, of the 32nd. +He was shot through the head, and died almost +immediately. The breach made by Shepherd was +the point to which most of the men of the centre +and right columns made, but their progress became +very slow when daylight appeared and the +Tibetans could see what they were firing at. It +was not till nearly nine o'clock that the whole +fringe of houses at the base of the front face of +the rock was in our possession.</p> + +<p>Then followed several hours of cannonading and +small-arms fire. The position the troops had now +won was commanded almost absolutely from the +jong. It was found impossible to return the +Tibetan fire from the roofs of the houses we had +occupied without exposing the troops in an unnecessary +degree, but loopholes were hastily made +in the walls of the rooms below, and the 40th +Pathans were sent into a garden on the extreme +right, where some cover was to be had. Colonel +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_193">[Pg 193]</a></span> +Campbell, commanding the first line, was able to +show the enemy that our marksmen were still in +a position to pick off such Tibetans as were rash +enough to unduly expose themselves. In the +meanwhile, Luke's guns on the extreme right, +Fuller's battery at Palla, and Marindin's guns at +the Gurkha outpost threw a stream of shrapnel +on all parts of the jong.</p> + +<p>But it was not till four o'clock in the afternoon +that the General decided that the time had come +to make the breach aforementioned. The reserve +companies of Gurkhas and Fusiliers were sent +across from Palla in the face of very heavy jingal +and rifle fire, and took cover in the houses we had +occupied. In the meanwhile Fuller was directed +to make the breach. So magnificent was the +shooting made by his guns that a dozen rounds +of common shell, planted one below the other, +had made a hole large enough for active men +to clamber through. The enemy quickly saw the +purport of the breach. Dozens of men could be +distinctly seen hurrying to the wall above it.</p> + +<p>Then the Gurkhas and Fusiliers began their +perilous ascent. The nimble Gurkhas, led by +Lieutenant Grant, soon outpaced the Fusiliers, +and in ten brief minutes forty or fifty of them +were crouching under the breach. The Tibetans, +finding their fire could not stop us, tore great +stones from the walls and rolled them down the +cleft. Dozens of men were hit and bruised. +Presently Grant was through the breach, followed +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_194">[Pg 194]</a></span> +by fifteen or twenty flushed and shouting men. +The breach won, the only thought of the enemy +was flight. They made their way by the back +of the jong into the monastery. By six o'clock +every building in the great fortress was in our +possession.</p> + +<p>Our casualties in this affair were forty-three—Lieutenant +Gurdon and seven men killed, and +twelve officers, including the gallant Grant, and +twenty-three men wounded. These casualties +exclude a number of men cut and bruised with +stones.</p> + +<p>Next morning the monastery was found deserted. +It was reported that the bulk of the +enemy had fled to Dongtse, about ten miles up +the Shigatze road. A column was sent thither, +but found the place empty, except for a very +humble and submissive monk.</p> + +<p>On the 14th, having waited for over a week in +the hope of the peace delegates putting in an +appearance, the force started on its march to +Lhasa.</p> +</div> + +<div class="chapter" id="chapter_11"> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_195">[Pg 195]</a></span></p> +<h2><a id="CHAPTER_XI"></a><span>CHAPTER XI</span> + +<small>GOSSIP ON THE ROAD TO THE FRONT</small></h2> + +<p class="right"><span class="r1"><span class="smcap">Ari, Sikkim</span>,</span><br /> +<span class="r2"><i>June 24</i>.</span></p> + +<p><span class="smcap">I write</span> in an old forest rest-house on the borders +of British Bhutan.</p> + +<p>The place is quiet and pastoral; climbing roses +overhang the roof and invade the bedrooms; +martins have built their nests in the eaves; +cuckoos are calling among the chestnuts down +the hill. Outside is a flower-garden, gay with +geraniums and petunias and familiar English +plants that have overrun their straggling borders +and scattered themselves in the narrow plot of +grass that fringes the forest. Some Government +officer must have planted them years ago, and +left them to fight it out with Nature and the +caretaker.</p> + +<p>The forest has encroached, and it is hard to say +where Nature's hand or Art's begins and ends. +Beside a rose-bush there has sprung up the solid +pink club of the wild ginger, and from a bed of +amaryllis a giant arum raises itself four feet +in its dappled, snake-like sheath. Gardens have +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_196">[Pg 196]</a></span> +most charm in spots like this, where their mingled +trimness and neglect contrast with the insolent +unconcern of an encroaching forest.</p> + +<p>At Ari I am fifty miles from Darjeeling, on the +road to Lhasa.</p> + +<p>On June 21 I set my face to Lhasa for the +second time. I took another route to Chumbi, +viâ Kalimpong and Pedong in British Bhutan. +The road is no further, but it compasses some +arduous ascents. On the other hand it avoids +the low, malarious valleys of Sikkim, where the +path is constantly carried away by slips. There +is less chance of a block, and one is above the +cholera zone. The Jelap route, which I strike +to-morrow, is closed, owing to cholera and land-slips, +so that I shall not touch the line of communications +until within a few miles of Chumbi, in +which time my wound will have had a week longer +to heal before I risk a medical examination and +the chance of being sent back. The relief column +is due at Gyantse in a few days; it depends on +the length of the operations there whether I +catch the advance to Lhasa.</p> + +<p>Through avoiding the Nathu-la route to +Chumbi I had to arrange my own transport. In +Darjeeling my coolies bolted without putting a +pack on their backs. More were secured; these +disappeared in the night at Kalimpong without +waiting to be paid. Pack-ponies were hired to +replace them, but these are now in a state of +collapse. Arguing, and haggling, and hectoring, +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_197">[Pg 197]</a></span> +and blarneying, and persuading are wearisome at +all times, but more especially in these close steamy +valleys, where it is too much trouble to lift an +eyelid, and the air induces an almost immoral +state of lassitude, in which one is tempted to dole +out silver indifferently to anyone who has it in +his power to oil the wheels of life. I could fill a +whole chapter with a jeremiad on transport, but +it is enough to indicate, to those who go about in +vehicles, that there are men on the road to Tibet +now who would beggar themselves and their +families for generations for a macadamized highway +and two hansom cabs to carry them and their +belongings smoothly to Lhasa. Before I reached +Kalimpong I wished I had never left the 'radius.' +No one should embark on Asiatic travel who is +not thoroughly out of harmony with civilization.</p> + +<p>The servant question is another difficulty. No +native bearer wishes to join the field force. Why +should he? He has to cook and pack and do +the work of three men; he has to make long, exhausting +marches; he is exposed to hunger, cold, +and fatigue; he may be under fire every day; +and he knows that if he falls into the hands of the +Tibetans, like the unfortunate servants of Captain +Parr at Gyantse, he will be brutally murdered and +cut up into mincemeat. In return for which he +is fed and clothed, and earns ten rupees more a +month than he would in the security of his own +home. After several unsuccessful trials, I have +found one Jung Bir, a Nepali bearer, who is +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_198">[Pg 198]</a></span> +attached to me because I forget sometimes to +ask for my bazaar account, and do not object +to his being occasionally drunk. In Tibet the +poor fellow will have little chance of drinking.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<a id="fp198-1"></a><a href="images/fp198-1.jpg"> +<img src="images/fp198-1s.jpg" alt="" title="" /></a> +<span class="caption"><br />Tsachen Monastery.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<a id="fp198-2"></a><a href="images/fp198-2.jpg"> +<img src="images/fp198-2s.jpg" alt="" title="" /></a> +<span class="caption"><br />Group of Shapés parleying.</span> +</div> + +<p>My first man lost his nerve altogether, and, when +told to work, could only whine out that his father +and mother were not with him. My next applicant +was an opium-eater, prematurely bent and aged, +with the dazed look of a toad that has been incarcerated +for ages in a rock, and is at last restored +to light and the world by the blow of a mason's +hammer. He wanted money to buy more dreams, +and for this he was willing to expose his poor old +body to hardships that would have killed him in +a month. Jung Bir was a Gurkha and more +martial. His first care on being engaged was +to buy a long and heavy chopper—'for making +mince,' he said; but I knew it was for the Tibetans.</p> + +<p>To reach Ari one has to descend twice, crossing +the Teesta at 700 feet, and the Russett Chu at +1,500 feet. These valleys are hotter than the +plains of India. The streams run east and west, +and the cliffs on both sides catch the heat of +the early morning sun and hold it all day. The +closeness, the refraction from the rocks, and the +evaporation of the water, make the atmosphere +almost suffocating, and one feels the heat the +more intensely by the change from the bracing air +above. Crossing the Teesta, one enters British +Bhutan, a strip of land of less than 300 square +miles on the left bank of the river. It was ceded +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_199">[Pg 199]</a></span> +to us with other territories by the treaty of 1865; +or, in plain words, it was annexed by us as a +punishment for the outrage on Sir Ashley Eden, +the British Envoy, who was captured and grossly +insulted by the Bhutanese at Punakha in the +previous year. The Bhutanese were as arrogant, +exclusive, and impossible to deal with, in those +days, as the Tibetans are to-day. Yet they have +been brought into line, and are now our friends. +Why should not the Tibetans, who are of the +same stock, yield themselves to enlightenment? +Their evolution would be no stranger.</p> + +<p>Nine miles above the Teesta bridge is Kalimpong, +the capital of British Bhutan, and virtually +the foreign mart for what trade passes out of Tibet. +The Tomos of the Chumbi Valley, who have the +monopoly of the carrying, do not go further south +than this. At Kalimpong I found a horse-dealer +with a good selection of 'Bhutia tats.' These excellent +little beasts are now well known to be as +strong and plucky a breed of mountain ponies as +can be found anywhere. I discovered that their +fame is not merely modern when I came across +what must be the first reference to them in +history in the narrative of Master Ralph Fitch, +England's pioneer to India. 'These northern +merchants,' says Fitch, speaking of the Bhutia, +'report that in their countrie they haue very +good horses, but they be litle.' The Bhutias +themselves, equally ubiquitous in the Sikkim +Himalayas, but not equally indispensable, Fitch +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_200">[Pg 200]</a></span> +describes to the letter. At Kalimpong I found +them dirty, lazy, good-natured, independent +rascals, possessed, apparently, of wealth beyond +their deserts, for hard work is as alien to their +character as straight dealing. Even the drovers +will pay a coolie good wages to cut grass for +them rather than walk a mile downhill to fetch +it themselves.</p> + +<p>The main street of Kalimpong is laid out in +the correct boulevard style, with young trees protected +by tubs and iron railings. It is dominated +by the church of the Scotch Mission, whose steeple +is a landmark for miles. The place seems to be +overrun with the healthiest-looking English children +I have seen anywhere, whose parents are +given over to very practical good works.</p> + +<p>I took the Bhutan route chiefly to avoid running +the gauntlet of the medicals; but another inducement +was the prospect of meeting Father Desgodins, +a French Roman Catholic, Vicar Apostolic +of the Roman Catholic Mission to Western Tibet, +who, after fifty years' intimacy with various +Mongol types, is probably better acquainted with +the Tibetans than any other living European.</p> + +<p>I met Father Desgodins at Pedong. The rest-house +here looks over the valley to his symmetrical +French presbytery and chapel, perched on +the hillside amid waving maize-fields, whose spring +verdure is the greenest in the world. Scattered +over the fields are thatched Lamas' houses and +low-storied gompas, with overhanging eaves and +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_201">[Pg 201]</a></span> +praying-flags—'horses of the wind,' as the Tibetans +picturesquely call them, imagining that the prayers +inscribed on them are carried to the good god, +whoever he may be, who watches their particular +fold and fends off intruding spirits as well as +material invaders.</p> + +<p>Behind the presbytery are terraced rice-fields, +irrigated by perennial streams, and bordered by +thick artemisia scrub, which in the hot sun, after +rain, sends out an aromatic scent, never to be +dissociated in travellers' dreams and reveries +from these great southern slopes of the Himalayas.</p> + +<p>Père Desgodins is an erect old gentleman with +quiet, steely gray eyes and a tawny beard now +turning gray. He is known to few Englishmen, +but his adventurous travels in Tibet and his +devoted, strenuous life are known throughout +Europe.</p> + +<p>He was sent out from France to the Tibet +Mission shortly after the murder of Krick and +Bourry by the Mishmis. Failing to enter Tibet +from the south through Sikkim, he made preparations +for an entry by Ladak. His journey +was arrested by the Indian Mutiny, when he was +one of the besieged at Agra. He afterwards +penetrated Western Tibet as far as Khanam, +but was recalled to the Chinese side, where he +spent twenty-two perilous and adventurous +years in the establishment of the mission at +Batang and Bonga. The mission was burnt +down and the settlement expelled by the Lamas. +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_202">[Pg 202]</a></span> +In 1888 Father Desgodins was sent to Pedong, +his present post, as Pro-vicar of the Mission to +Western Tibet.</p> + +<p>With regard to the present situation in Tibet, +Father Desgodins expressed astonishment at our +policy of folded arms.</p> + +<p>'You have missed the occasion,' he said; 'you +should have made your treaty with the Tibetans +themselves in 1888. You could have forced them +to treat then, when they were unprepared for a +military invasion. You should have said to them'—here +Père Desgodins took out his watch—'"It +is now one o'clock. Sign that treaty by five, or +we advance to-morrow." What could they have +done? Now you are too late. They have +been preparing for this for the last fifteen +years.'</p> + +<p>Father Desgodins was right. It is the old story +of ill-advised conciliation and forbearance. We +were afraid of the bugbear of China. The British +Government says to her victim after the chastisement: +'You've had your lesson. Now run off +and be good.' And the spoilt child of arrested +civilization runs off with his tongue in his cheek +and learns to make new arms and friends. The +British Government in the meantime sleeps in +smug complacency, and Exeter Hall is appeased.</p> + +<p>'But why did you not treat with the Tibetans +themselves?' Père Desgodins asked. 'China!'—here +he made an expressive gesture—'I have +known China for fifty years. She is not your +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_203">[Pg 203]</a></span> +friend.' Of course it is to the interest of China +to keep the tea monopoly, and to close the market +to British India. Travellers on the Chinese +borders are given passports and promises of assistance, +but the natives of the districts they traverse +are ordered to turn them back and place every +obstacle in their way. Nobody knows this better +than Father Desgodins. China's policy is the +same with nations as with individuals. She will +always profess willingness to help, but protest +that her subjects are unmanageable and out of +hand. Why, then, deal with China at all? We +can only answer that she had more authority in +Lhasa in 1888. Moreover, we were more afraid +of offending her susceptibilities. But that bubble +has burst.</p> + +<p>Others who hold different views from Père +Desgodins say that this very unruliness of her +vassal ought to make China welcome our intervention +in Tibet, if we engage to respect her claims +there when we have subdued the Lamas. This +policy might certainly point a temporary way out +of the muddle, whereby we could save our face +and be rid of the Tibet incubus for perhaps a year. +But the plan of leaving things to the suzerain +Power has been tried too often.</p> + +<p>As I rode down the Pedong street from the presbytery +someone called me by name, and a little, +smiling, gnome-like man stepped out of a whitewashed +office. It was Phuntshog, a Tibetan +friend whom I had known six years previously +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_204">[Pg 204]</a></span> +on the North-East frontier. I dismounted, expecting +entertainment.</p> + +<p>The office was bare of furniture save a new +writing-table and two chairs, but heaped round +the walls were piles of cast steel and iron plates +and files and pipes for bellows. Phuntshog explained +that he was frontier trade examiner, and +that the steel had been purchased in Calcutta +by a Lama last year, and was confiscated on the +frontier as contraband. It was material for an +armoury. The spoilt child was making new +arms, like the schoolboy who exercises his muscle +to avenge himself after a beating.</p> + +<p>'Do you get much of this sort of thing?' I +asked.</p> + +<p>'Not now,' he said; 'they have given up trying +to get it through this way.'</p> + +<p>A few years ago eight Mohammedans, experts +in rifle manufacture, had been decoyed from a +Calcutta factory to Lhasa. Two had died there, +and one I traced at Yatung. His wife had not +been allowed to pass the barrier, but he was +given a Tibetan helpmate. The wife lived some +months at Yatung, and used to receive large +instalments from her husband; once, I was told, +as much as Rs. 1,400. But he never came back. +The Tibetans have learned to make rifles for +themselves now. Phuntshog had a story about +another suspicious character, a mysterious Lama +who arrived in Darjeeling in 1901 from Calcutta +with 5,000 alms bowls for Tibet, which he said +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_205">[Pg 205]</a></span> +he had purchased in Germany. The man was +detained in Darjeeling five months under police +espionage, and finally sent back to Calcutta.</p> + +<p>Our Intelligence Department on this frontier +is more alert than it used to be. Dorjieff, +Phuntshog told me, had been to Darjeeling +twice, and stayed in a trader's house at +Kalimpong several days. He wore the dress +of a Lama. The ostensible object of his +journey was to visit the sacred Chorten at +Khatmandu and the shrines of Benares. He +visited these, and was known to spend some +time in Calcutta. On the occasion of the mission +to St. Petersburg Dorjieff and his colleagues +entered India through Nepal, took train to Bombay, +and shipped thence to Odessa. The discovery +of the Lamas' visit to India was almost +simultaneous with their departure from Bombay.</p> + +<p>Phuntshog is not an admirer of our Tibetan +policy. We ought to have laid ourselves out, he +said, to influence the Lamas by secret agents, as +Russia did. There was no chance of a compromise +now; they would fight to the death. +Phuntshog said much more which I suspected +was inspired by the daily newspapers, so I +questioned him as to the feelings of the natives +of the district.</p> + +<p>'The feeling of patriotism is extinct,' he said; +and he looked at his stomach, showing that he +spoke the truth. 'We Tibetan British subjects +are fed well and paid well by your Government. +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_206">[Pg 206]</a></span> +We want nothing more. My family are here. +Now I have no trade to examine.' His eyes +slowly surveyed the room, glanced over his office +table, with its pen and ink and blank paper, +lit on the 150 maunds of cast-steel, and finally +rested on two volumes by his elbow.</p> + +<p>'Do you read much?' I asked.</p> + +<p>'Sometimes,' he said. 'I have learnt a good +deal from these books.'</p> + +<p>They were the Holy Bible and Miss Braddon's +'Dead Men's Shoes.'</p> + +<p>'Phuntshog,' I said, 'you are a psychological +enigma. Your mind is like that cast-iron huddled +in the corner there, bought in an enlightened +Western city and destined for your benighted +Lhasa, but stuck halfway. Only it was going +the other way. You don't understand? Neither +do I.'</p> + +<p>And here at Ari, as I look across the valley of +the Russett Chu to Pedong, and hear the vesper +bell, I cannot help thinking of that strange conflict +of minds—the devotee who, seeing further +than most men, has cared nothing for the things +of this incarnation, and Phuntshog, the strange +hybrid product of restless Western energies, stirring +and muddying the shallows of the Eastern +mind. Or are they depths?</p> + +<p>Who knows? I know nothing, only that these +men are inscrutable, and one cannot see into their +hearts.</p> +</div> + +<div class="chapter" id="chapter_12"> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_207">[Pg 207]</a></span></p> +<h2><a id="CHAPTER_XII"></a><span>CHAPTER XII</span> + +<small>TO THE GREAT RIVER</small></h2> + +<p><span class="smcap">I reached</span> Gyantse on July 12. The advance to +Lhasa began on the 14th. As might be expected +from the tone of the delegates, peace negociations +fell through. The Lhasa Government seemed to +be chaotic and conveniently inaccessible. The +Dalai Lama remained a great impersonality, and +the four Shapés or Councillors disclaimed all +responsibility. The Tsong-du, or National Assembly, +who virtually governed the country, had +sent us no communication. The delegates' attitude +of <i>non possumus</i> was not assumed. Though +these men were the highest officials in Tibet, they +could not guarantee that any settlement they +might make with us would be faithfully observed. +There seemed no hope of a solution to the deadlock +except by absolute militarism. If the +Tibetans had fought so stubbornly at Gyantse, +what fanaticism might we not expect at Lhasa! +Most of us thought that we could only reach the +capital through the most awful carnage. We +pictured the 40,000 monks of Lhasa hurling +themselves defiantly on our camp. We saw +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_208">[Pg 208]</a></span> +them mown down by Maxims, lanes of dead. +A hopeless struggle, and an ugly page in military +history. Still, we must go on; there was no help +for it. The blood of these people was on their +own heads.</p> + +<p>We left Gyantse on the 14th, and plunged into +the unknown towards Lhasa, which we had +reason to believe lay in some hidden valley +150 miles to the north, beyond the unexplored +basin of the Tsangpo. Every position on the +road was held. The Karo la had been enormously +strengthened, and was occupied by +2,000 men. The enemy's cavalry, which we had +never seen, were at Nagartse Jong. Gubshi, a +dilapidated fort, only nineteen miles on the road, +was held by several hundred. The Tibetans +intended to dispute the passage of the Brahmaputra, +and there were other strong positions where +the path skirted the Kyi-chu for miles beneath +overhanging rocks, which were carefully prepared +for booby-traps. We had to launch ourselves +into this intensely hostile region and compel +some people—we did not know whom—to attach +their signatures and seals to a certain parchment +which was to bind them to good behaviour in the +future, and a recognition of obligations they had +hitherto disavowed.</p> + +<p>Our force consisted of eight companies of the +8th Gurkhas, five companies of the 32nd Pioneers, +four companies of the 40th Pathans, four companies +of the Royal Fusiliers, two companies of +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_209">[Pg 209]</a></span> +Mounted Infantry, No. 30 British Mountain +Battery, a section of No. 7 Native Mountain +Battery, 1st Madras Sappers and Miners, machine-gun +section of the Norfolks, and details.<a id="FNanchor_14_14"></a><a href="#Footnote_14_14" class="fnanchor">[14]</a> The +23rd Pioneers, to their disgust, were left to garrison +Gyantse. The transport included mule, yak, +donkey, and coolie corps.</p> + +<p>The first three marches to Ralung were a repetition +of the country between Kalatso and Gyantse—in +the valley a strip of irrigated land, green and +gold, with alternate barley and mustard fields +between hillsides bare and verdureless save for +tufts of larkspur, astragalus, and scattered yellow +poppies. To Gyantse one descends 2,000 feet +from a country entirely barren of trees to a valley +of occasional willow and poplar groves; while +from Gyantse, as one ascends, the clusters of trees +become fewer, until one reaches the treeless zone +again at Ralung (15,000 feet). The last grove is +at Gubchi.</p> + +<p>I quote some notes of the march from my +diary:</p> + +<p>'<i>July 14.</i>—The villages by the roadside are +deserted save for old women and barking dogs. +The Tibetans came down from the Karo la and +impressed the villagers. Many have fled into the +hills, and are hiding among the rocks and caves. +Our pickets fired on some to-night. Seeing their +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_210">[Pg 210]</a></span> +heads bobbing up and down among the rocks, +they thought they were surrounded. Many of +the fugitives were women. Luckily, none were +hit. They were brought into camp whimpering +and salaaming, and became embarrassingly grateful +when it was made clear to them that they were +not to be tortured or killed, but set free. They +were called back, however, to give information +about grain, and thought their last hour had +come.'</p> + +<p>'<i>July 16.</i>—All the houses between Gubchi and +Ralung are decorated with diagonal blue, red, and +white stripes, characteristic of the Ning-ma sect +of Buddhists. They remind me of the walls of +Damascus after the visit of the German Emperor. +Heavy rain falls every day. Last night we +camped in a wet mustard-field. It is impossible +to keep our bedding dry.'</p> + +<p>From Ralung the valley widens out, and the +country becomes more bleak. We enter a plateau +frequented by gazelle. Cultivation ceases. The +ascent to the Karo Pass is very gradual. The +path takes a sudden turn to the east through a +narrow gorge.</p> + +<p>On the 17th we camped under the Karo la in +the snow range of Noijin Kang Sang, at an elevation +of 1,000 feet above Mont Blanc. The pass +was free of snow, but a magnificent glacier descended +within 500 feet of the camp. We lay +within four miles of the enemy's position. Most +of us expected heavy fighting the next morning, +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_211">[Pg 211]</a></span> +as we knew the Tibetans had been strengthening +their defences at the Karo la for some days. +Volleys were fired on our scouts on the 16th and +17th. The old wall had been extended east and +west until it ended in vertical cliffs just beneath +the snow-line. A second barrier had been built +further on, and sangars constructed on every prominent +point to meet flank attacks. The wall +itself was massively strong, and it was approached +by a steep cliff, up which it was impossible to +make a sustained charge, as the rarefied air at +this elevation (16,600 feet) leaves one breathless +after the slightest exertion. The Karo la was the +strongest position on the road to Lhasa. If the +Tibetans intended to make another stand, here +was their chance.</p> + +<p>In the messes there was much discussion as to +the seriousness of the opposition we were likely +to meet with. The flanking parties had a long +and difficult climb before them that would take +them some hours, and the general feeling was +that we should be lucky if we got the transport +through by noon. But when one of us suggested +that the Tibetans might fail to come up to the +scratch, and abandon the position without firing +a shot, we laughed at him; but his conjecture was +very near the mark.</p> + +<p>At 7 a.m. the troops forming the line of +advance moved into position. The disposition +of the enemy's sangars made a turning movement +extremely difficult, but a frontal attack on the +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_212">[Pg 212]</a></span> +wall, if stubbornly resisted, could not be carried +without severe loss. General Macdonald sent +flanking parties of the 8th Gurkhas on both sides +of the valley to scale the heights and turn the +Tibetan position, and despatched the Royal +Fusiliers along the centre of the valley to attack +the wall when the opposition had been weakened.</p> + +<p>Stretched on a grassy knoll on the left, enjoying +the sunshine and the smell of the warm turf, we +civilians watched the whole affair with our glasses. +It might have been a picnic on the Surrey downs +if it were not for the tap-tap of the Maxim, like a +distant woodpecker, in the valley, and the occasional +report of the 10-pounders by our side, +which made the valleys and cliffs reverberate like +thunder.</p> + +<p>The Tibetans' ruse was to open fire from the +wall directly our troops came into view, and then +evacuate the position. They thus delayed the +pursuit while we were waiting for the scaling-party +to ascend the heights.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<a id="p213"></a><a href="images/p213.jpg"> +<img src="images/p213s.jpg" alt="Page 213." title="" /></a> +<span class="caption"><br />KARO LA.</span> + +<p class="imgcap">A. Gurkhas line of Adv.</p> +<p class="imgcap">B. Rocks occupied by enemy +finally dislodged by +Gurkhas.</p> +<p class="imgcap">C. Distant rocky spur up which +majority of Enemy retired +from Walls. It was up this +ridge that 40th Pathans +eventually pursued.</p> +<p class="imgcap">D. Walls.</p> +<p class="imgcap">E. Fusiliers line of Advance.</p> +<p class="imgcap">F. 2 Coys Gorkhas.</p> +<p class="imgcap">G. Track.</p> +</div> + +<p>At nine o'clock the Gurkhas on the left signalled +that no enemy were to be seen. At the same +time Colonel Cooper, of the Royal Fusiliers, +heliographed that the wall was unoccupied and +the Tibetans in full retreat. The mounted +infantry were at once called up for the pursuit. +Meanwhile one or two jingals and some Tibetan +marksmen kept up an intermittent fire on the +right flanking party from clefts in the overhanging +cliffs. A battery replied with shrapnel, +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_213">[Pg 213/214]</a><br /></span> +covering our advance. These pickets on the +left stayed behind and engaged our right flanking +party until eleven o'clock. To turn the +position the Gurkhas climbed a parallel ridge, +and were for a long time under fire of their +jingals. The last part of the ascent was along +the edge of a glacier, and then on to the shoulder +of the ridge by steps which the Gurkhas cut in +the ice with their <i>kukris</i>, helping one another up +with the butts of their rifles. They carried rope +scaling-ladders, but these were for the descent. +At 11.30 Major Murray and his two companies +of Gurkhas appeared on the heights, and possession +was taken of the pass. The ridge that the +Tibetans had held was apparently deserted, but +every now and then a man was seen crouching +in a cave or behind a rock, and was shot down. +One Kham man shot a Gurkha who was looking +into the cave where he was hiding. He then ran +out and held up his thumbs, expecting quarter. +He was rightly cut down with <i>kukris</i>. The dying +Gurkha's comrades rushed the cave, and drove +six more over the precipice without using steel +or powder. They fell sheer 300 feet. Another +Gurkha cut off a Tibetan's head with his own +sword. On several occasions they hesitated to +soil their <i>kukris</i> when they could despatch their +victims in any other way.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<a id="fp214-1"></a><a href="images/fp214-1.jpg"> +<i><img src="images/fp214-1s.jpg" alt="" title="" /></i></a> +<span class="caption"><br />Kham Prisoners.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<a id="fp214-2"></a><a href="images/fp214-2.jpg"> +<img src="images/fp214-2s.jpg" alt="" title="" /></a> +<span class="caption"><br />Gurkhas climbing at the Karo la.</span> +</div> + +<p>On a further ridge, a heart-breaking ascent of +shale and boulders, we saw two or three hundred +Tibetans ascending into the clouds. We had +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_215">[Pg 215]</a></span> +marked them at the beginning of the action, before +we knew that the wall was unoccupied. Even then +it was clear that the men were fugitives, and +had no thought of holding the place. We could +see them hours afterwards, with our glasses, +crouching under the cliffs. We turned shrapnel +and Maxims on them; the hillsides began to move. +Then a company of Pathans was sent up, and +despatched over forty. It was at this point I +saw an act of heroism which quite changed my +estimate of these men. A group of four were +running up a cliff, under fire from the Pathans +at a distance of about 500 yards. One was hit, +and his comrade stayed behind to carry him. +The two unimpeded Tibetans made their escape, +but the rescuer could only shamble along with +difficulty. He and his wounded comrade were +both shot down.</p> + +<p>The 18th was a disappointing day to our +soldiers. But the action was of great interest, +owing to the altitude in which our flanking parties +had to operate. There is a saying on the Indian +frontier: 'There is a hill; send up a Gurkha.' +These sturdy little men are splendid mountaineers, +and will climb up the face of a rock while the +enemy are rolling down stones on them as coolly +as they will rush a wall under heavy fire on the +flat. Their arduous climb took three and a half +hours, and was a real mountaineering feat. The +cave fighting, in which they had three casualties, +took place at 19,000 feet, and this is probably the +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_216">[Pg 216]</a></span> +highest elevation at which an action has been +fought in history.</p> + +<p>A few of the Tibetans fled by the highroad, +along which the mounted infantry pursued, killing +twenty and taking ten prisoners. I asked a +native officer how he decided whom to spare or +kill, and he said he killed the men who ran, and +spared those who came towards him. The destiny +that preserved the lives of our ten Kham prisoners +when nearly the whole of the levy perished reminded +me in its capriciousness of Caliban's +whim in Setebos:</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">'Let twenty pass, and stone the twenty-first,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Loving not, hating not, just choosing so.'<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>These Kham men were in our mounted infantry +camp until the release of the prisoners in Lhasa, +and made themselves useful in many ways—loading +mules, carrying us over streams, fetching +wood and water, and fodder for our horses. They +were fed and cared for, and probably never fared +better in their lives. When they had nothing to +do, they would sit down in a circle and discuss +things resignedly—the English, no doubt, and +their ways, and their own distant country. +Sometimes they would ask to go home; their +mothers and wives did not know if they were +alive or dead. But we had no guarantee that +they would not fight us again. Now they knew +the disparity of their arms they might shrink +from further resistance, yet there was every +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_217">[Pg 217]</a></span> +chance that the Lamas would compel them to +fight. They became quite popular in the camp, +these wild, long-haired men, they were so good-humoured, +gentle in manner, and ready to help.</p> + +<p>I was sorry for these Tibetans. Their struggle +was so hopeless. They were brave and simple, +and none of us bore the slightest vindictiveness +against them. Here was all the brutality of war, +and none of the glory and incentive. These +men were of the same race as the people I had +been living amongst at Darjeeling—cheerful, jolly +fellows—and I had seen their crops ruined, their +houses burnt and shelled, the dead lying about +the thresholds of what were their homes, and all +for no fault of their own—only because their +leaders were politically impossible, which, of +course, the poor fellows did not know, and there +was no one to tell them. They thought our +advance an act of unprovoked aggression, and +they were fighting for their homes.</p> + +<p>Fortunately, however, this slaughter was beginning +to put the fear of God into them. We +never saw a Tibetan within five miles who did +not carry a huge white flag. The second action +at the Karo la was the end of the Tibetan resistance. +The fall of Gyantse Jong, which they +thought unassailable, seems to have broken their +spirit altogether. At the Karo la they had +evidently no serious intention of holding the +position, but fought like men driven to the front +against their will, with no confidence or heart +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_218">[Pg 218]</a></span> +in the business at all. The friendly Bhutanese +told us that the Tibetans would not stand where +they had once been defeated, and that levies +who had once faced us were not easily brought +into the field again. These were casual generalizations, +no doubt, but they contained a great deal +of truth. The Kham men who opposed us at +the first Karo la action, the Shigatze men who +attacked the mission in May, and the force from +Lhasa who hurled themselves on Kangma, were +all new levies. Many of our prisoners protested +very strongly against being released, fearing to +be exposed again to our bullets and their own +Lamas.</p> + +<p>On the 18th we reached Nagartse Jong, and +found the Shapés awaiting us. They met us in +the same impracticable spirit. We were not to +occupy the jong, and they were not empowered +to treat with us unless we returned to Gyantse. +It was a repetition of Khamba Jong and Tuna. +In the afternoon a durbar was held in Colonel +Younghusband's tent, when the Tibetans showed +themselves appallingly futile and childish. They +did not seem to realize that we were in a position +to dictate terms, and Colonel Younghusband had +to repeat that it was now too late for any compromise, +and the settlement must be completed +at Lhasa.</p> + +<p>From Nagartse we held interviews with these +tedious delegates at almost every camp. They +exhausted everyone's patience except the Commissioner's. +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_219">[Pg 219]</a></span> +For days they did not yield a point, +and refused even to discuss terms unless we +returned to Gyantse. But their protests became +more urgent as we went on, their tone less minatory. +It was not until we were within fifty miles +of Lhasa that the Tibetan Government deigned +to enter into communication with the mission. +At Tamalung Colonel Younghusband received the +first communication from the National Assembly; +at Chaksam arrived the first missive the British +Government had ever received from the Dalai +Lama. During the delay at the ferry the councillors +practically threw themselves on Colonel +Younghusband's mercy. They said that their +lives would be forfeited if we proceeded, and +dwelt on the severe punishment they might incur +if they failed to conclude negociations satisfactorily. +But Colonel Younghusband was equal to +every emergency. It would be impossible to find +another man in the British Empire with a personality +so calculated to impress the Tibetans. +He sat through every durbar a monument of +patience and inflexibility, impassive as one of +their own Buddhas. Priests and councillors found +that appeals to his mercy were hopeless. He, too, +had orders from his King to go to Lhasa; if he +faltered, <i>his</i> life also was at stake; decapitation +would await <i>him</i> on his return. That was the +impression he purposely gave them. It curtailed +palaver. How in the name of all their Buddhas +were they to stop such a man? +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_220">[Pg 220]</a></span></p> + +<p>The whole progress of negociations put me in +mind of the coercion of very naughty children. +The Lamas tried every guile to reduce his demands. +They would be cajoling him now if he had not +given them an ultimatum, and if they had not +learnt by six weeks' contact and intercourse with +the man that shuffling was hopeless, that he never +made a promise that was not fulfilled, or a threat +that was not executed. The Tibetan treaty was +the victory of a personality, the triumph of an +impression on the least impressionable people in +the world. But I anticipate.</p> + +<p>While the Shapés were holding Colonel Younghusband +in conference at Nagartse, their cavalry +were escorting a large convoy on the road to +Lhasa. Our mounted infantry came upon them +six miles beyond Nagartse, and as they were +rounding them up the Tibetans foolishly fired on +them. We captured eighty riding and baggage +ponies and mules and fourteen prisoners, and +killed several. They made no stand, though they +were well armed with a medley of modern rifles +and well mounted. This was actually the last +shot fired on our side. The delegates had been +full of assurances that the country was clear of +the enemy, hoping that the convoy would get +well away while they delayed us with fruitless +protests and reiterated demands to go back. +While they were palavering in the tent, they +looked out and saw the Pathans go past with +their rich yellow silks and personal baggage +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_221">[Pg 221]</a></span> +looted in the brush with the cavalry. Their +consternation was amusing, and the situation +had its element of humour. A servant rushed +to the door of the tent and delivered the whole +tale of woe. A mounted infantry officer arrived +and explained that our scouts had been fired on. +After this, of course, there was no talk of anything +except the restitution of the loot. The +Shapés deserved to lose their kit. I do not remember +what was arranged, but if any readers +of this record see a gorgeous yellow cloak of +silk and brocade at a fancy-dress ball in London, +I advise them to ask its history.</p> + +<p>This last encounter with the Tibetans is especially +interesting, as they were the best-armed +body of men we had met. The weapons we +captured included a Winchester rifle, several +Lhasa-made Martinis, a bolt rifle of an old +Austrian pattern, an English-made muzzle-loading +rifle, a 12-bore breech-loading shot-gun, some +Eley's ammunition, and an English gun-case. +The reports of Russian arms found in Tibet have +been very much exaggerated. During the whole +campaign we did not come across more than +thirty Russian Government rifles, and these were +weapons that must have drifted into Tibet from +Mongolia, just as rifles of British pattern found +their way over the Indian frontier into Lhasa. +Also it must be remembered that the weapons +locally made in Lhasa were of British pattern, +and manufactured by experts decoyed from a +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_222">[Pg 222]</a></span> +British factory. Had these men been Russian +subjects, we should have regarded their presence +in Lhasa as an unquestionable proof of Muscovite +assistance. Jealousy and suspicion make nations +wilfully blind. Russia fully believes that we are +giving underhand assistance to the Japanese, and +many Englishmen, who are unbiassed in other +questions, are ready to believe, without the +slightest proof, that Russia has been supplying +Tibet with arms and generals. We had been +informed that large quantities of Russian rifles +had been introduced into the country, and it was +rumoured that the Tibetans were reserving these +for the defence of Lhasa itself. But it is hardly +credible that they should have sent levies against +us armed with their obsolete matchlocks when +they were well supplied with weapons of a modern +pattern. Russian intrigue was active in Lhasa, +but it had not gone so far as open armament.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<a id="fp222"></a><a href="images/fp222.jpg"> +<img src="images/fp222s.jpg" alt="" title="" /></a> +<span class="caption"><br />Pehté Jong.</span> +</div> + +<p>At Nagartse we came across the great Yamdok +or Palti Lake, along the shores of which winds +the road to Lhasa. Nagartse Jong is a striking +old keep, built on a bluff promontory of hill +stretching out towards the blue waters of the +lake. In the distance we saw the crag-perched +monastery of Samding, where lives the mysterious +Dorje Phagmo, the incarnation of the goddess +Tara.</p> + +<p>The wild mountain scenery of the Yamdok +Tso, the most romantic in Tibet, has naturally +inspired many legends. When Samding was +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_223">[Pg 223]</a></span> +threatened by the Dzungarian invaders early in +the eighteenth century, Dorje Phagmo miraculously +converted herself and all her attendant +monks and nuns into pigs. Serung Dandub, the +Dzungarian chief, finding the monastery deserted, +said that he would not loot a place guarded only +by swine, whereupon Dorje Phagmo again metamorphosed +herself and her satellites. The terrified +invaders prostrated themselves in awe before +the goddess, and presented the monastery with +the most priceless gifts. Similarly, the Abbot of +Pehte saved the fortress and town from another +band of invaders by giving the lake the appearance +of green pasturelands, into which the Dzungarians +galloped and were engulfed. I quote +these tales, which have been mentioned in nearly +every book on Tibet, as typical of the country. +Doubtless similar legends will be current in a few +years about the British to account for the sparing +of Samding, Nagartse, and Pehte Jong.</p> + +<p>Special courtesy was shown the monks and +nuns of Samding, in recognition of the hospitality +afforded Sarat Chandra Dass by the last incarnation +of Dorje Phagmo, who entertained the Bengali +traveller, and saw that he was attended +to and cared for through a serious illness. A +letter was sent Dorje Phagmo, asking if she +would receive three British officers, including the +antiquary of the expedition. But the present +incarnation, a girl of six or seven years, was invisible, +and the convent was reported to be bare +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_224">[Pg 224]</a></span> +of ornament and singularly disappointing. There +were no pigs.</p> + +<p>If only one were without the incubus of an +army, a month in the Noijin Kang Sang country +and the Yamdok Plain would be a delightful +experience. But when one is accompanying a +column one loses more than half the pleasure of +travel. One has to get up at a fixed hour—generally +uncomfortably early—breakfast, and pack +and load one's mules and see them started in their +allotted place in the line, ride in a crowd all day, +often at a snail's pace, and halt at a fixed place. +Shooting is forbidden on the line of march. When +alone one can wander about with a gun, pitch +camp where one likes, make short or long marches +as one likes, shoot or fish or loiter for days in the +same place. The spirit which impels one to +travel in wild places is an impulse, conscious or +unconscious, to be free of laws and restraints, +to escape conventions and social obligations, to +temporarily throw one's self back into an obsolete +phase of existence, amidst surroundings which +bear little mark of the arbitrary meddling of man. +It is not a high ideal, but men often deceive themselves +when they think they make expeditions in +order to add to science, and forsake the comforts +of life, and endure hunger, cold, fatigue and loneliness, +to discover in exactly what parallel of unknown +country a river rises or bends to some +particular point of the compass. How many +travellers are there who would spend the same +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_225">[Pg 225]</a></span> +time in an office poring over maps or statistics +for the sake of geography or any other science? +We like to have a convenient excuse, and make a +virtue out of a hobby or an instinct. But why +not own up that one travels for the glamour of +the thing? In previous wanderings my experience +had always been to leave a base with several +different objectives in view, and to take the route +that proved most alluring when met by a choice +of roads—some old deserted city or ruined shrine, +some lake or marshland haunted by wild-fowl +that have never heard the crack of a gun, or a +strip of desert where one must calculate how to +get across with just sufficient supplies and no +margin. I like to drift to the magnet of great +watersheds, lofty mountain passes, frontiers where +one emerges among people entirely different in +habit and belief from folk the other side, but +equally convinced that they are the only enlightened +people on earth. Often in India I had +dreamed of the great inland waters of Tibet and +Mongolia, the haunts of myriads of duck and +geese—Yamdok Tso, Tengri Nor, Issik Kul, +names of romance to the wild-fowler, to be breathed +with reverence and awe. I envied the great +flights of mallard and pochard winging northward +in March and April to the unknown; and +here at last I was camping by the Yamdok Tso +itself—with an army.</p> + +<p>Yet I have digressed to grumble at the only +means by which a sight of these hidden waters +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_226">[Pg 226]</a></span> +was possible. When we passed in July, there +were no wild-fowl on the lake except the bar-headed +geese and Brahminy duck. The ruddy +sheldrake, or Brahminy, is found all over Tibet, +and will be associated with the memory of nearly +every march and camping-ground. It is distinctly +a Buddhist bird. From it is derived the +title of the established Church of the Lamas, the +Abbots of which wear robes of ruddy sheldrake +colour, Gelug-pa.<a id="FNanchor_15_15"></a><a href="#Footnote_15_15" class="fnanchor">[15]</a> In Burmah the Brahminy +is sacred to Buddhism as a symbol of devotion +and fidelity, and it was figured on Asoka's +pillars in the same emblematical character.<a id="FNanchor_16_16"></a><a href="#Footnote_16_16" class="fnanchor">[16]</a> +The Brahminy is generally found in pairs, and +when one is shot the other will often hover round +till it falls a victim to conjugal love. In India +the bird is considered inedible, but we were glad +of it in Tibet, and discovered no trace of fishy +flavour.</p> + +<p>Early in April, when we passed the Bam Tso +and Kala Tso we found the lakes frequented by +nearly all the common migratory Indian duck; +and again, on our return large flights came in. +But during the summer months nothing remained +except the geese and sheldrake and the goosander, +which is resident in Tibet and the Himalayas. I +take it that no respectable duck spends the +summer south of the Tengri Nor. At Lhasa, +mallard, teal, gadwall, and white-eyed pochard +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_227">[Pg 227]</a></span> +were coming in from the north as we were leaving +in the latter half of September, and followed us +down to the plains. They make shorter flights +than I imagined, and longer stays at their fashionable +Central Asian watering-places.</p> + +<p>We marched three days along the banks of the +Yamdok Tso, and halted a day at Nagartse. +Duck were not plentiful on the lake. Black-headed +gulls and redshanks were common. The +fields of blue borage by the villages were an +exquisite sight. On the 22nd we reached Pehte. +The jong, a medieval fortress, stands out on the +lake like Chillon, only it is more crumbling and +dilapidated. The courtyards are neglected and +overgrown with nettles. Soldiers, villagers, both +men and women, had run away to the hills with +their flocks and valuables. Only an old man and +two boys were left in charge of the chapel and the +fort. The hide fishing-boats were sunk, or carried +over to the other side. On July 24 we left the +lake near the village of Tamalung, and ascended +the ridge on our left to the Khamba Pass, 1,200 +feet above the lake level. A sudden turn in the +path brought us to the saddle, and we looked +down on the great river that has been guarded +from European eyes for nearly a century. In +the heart of Tibet we had found Arcadia—not a +detached oasis, but a continuous strip of verdure, +where the Tsangpo cleaves the bleak hills and +desert tablelands from west to east.</p> + +<p>All the valley was covered with green and +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_228">[Pg 228]</a></span> +yellow cornfields, with scattered homesteads surrounded +by clusters of trees, not dwarfish and +stunted in the struggle for existence, but stately +and spreading—trees that would grace the valley +of the Thames or Severn.</p> + +<p>We had come through the desert to Arcady. +When we left Phari, months and months before, +and crossed the Tang la, we entered the +desert.</p> + +<p>Tuna is built on bare gravel, and in winter-time +does not boast a blade of grass. Within a mile +there are stunted bushes, dry, withered, and sapless, +which lend a sustenance to the gazelle and +wild asses, beasts that from the beginning have +chosen isolation, and, like the Tibetans, who +people the same waste, are content with spare +diet so long as they are left alone.</p> + +<p>Every Tibetan of the tableland is a hermit by +choice, or some strange hereditary instinct has +impelled him to accept Nature's most niggard +gifts as his birthright, so that he toils a lifetime +to win by his own labour and in scanty +measure the necessaries which Nature deals +lavishly elsewhere, herding his yaks on the waste +lands, tilling the unproductive soil for his meagre +crop of barley, and searching the hillsides for +yak-dung for fuel to warm his stone hut and +cook his meal of flour.</p> + +<p>Yet north and south of him, barely a week's +journey, are warm, fertile valleys, luxuriant +crops, unstinted woodlands, where Mongols like +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_229">[Pg 229]</a></span> +himself accept Nature's largess philosophically +as the most natural thing in the world.</p> + +<p>It seems as if some special and economical law +of Providence, such a law as makes at least one +man see beauty in every type of woman, even the +most unlovely, had ordained it, so that no corner +of the earth, not even the Sahara, Tadmor, Tuna, +or Guru, should lack men who devote themselves +blindly and without question to live there, and +care for what one might think God Himself had +forgotten and overlooked.</p> + +<p>These men—Bedouin, Tibetans, and the like—enjoy +one thing, for which they forego most +things that men crave for, and that is freedom. +They do not possess the gifts that cause strife, +and divisions, and law-making, and political +parties, and changes of Government. They have +too little to share. Their country is invaded only +at intervals of centuries. On these occasions they +fight bravely, as their one inheritance is at stake. +But they are bigoted and benighted; they have +not kept time with evolution, and so they are +defeated. The conservatism, the exclusiveness, +that has kept them free so long has shut the +door to 'progress,' which, if they were enlightened +and introspective, they would recognise as a +pestilence that has infected one half of the world +at the expense of the other, making both unhappy +and discontented.</p> + +<p>The Tuna Plain is like the Palmyra Desert at +the point where one comes within view of the +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_230">[Pg 230]</a></span> +snows of Lebanon. It is not monotonous; there +is too much play of light and shade for that. +Everywhere the sun shines, the mirage dances; +the white calcined plain becomes a flock of +frightened sheep hurrying down the wind; the +stunted sedge by the lakeside leaps up like a +squadron in ambush and sweeps rapidly along +without ever approaching nearer. Sometimes a +herd of wild asses is mingled in the dance, grotesquely +magnified; stones and nettles become +walls and men. All the country is elusive and +unreal.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<a id="fp230"></a><a href="images/fp230.jpg"> +<img src="images/fp230s.jpg" alt="" title="" /></a> +<span class="caption"><br />Gubchi Jong.</span> +</div> + +<p>A few miles beyond Guru the road skirts the +Bamtso Lake, which must once have filled the +whole valley. Now the waters have receded, as +the process of desiccation is going on which has +entirely changed the geographical features of +Central Asia, and caused the disappearance of +great expanses of water like the Koko Nor, and +the dwindling of lakes and river from Khotan to +Gobi. The Roof of the World is becoming less and +less inhabitable.</p> + +<p>From the desert to Arcady is not a long journey, +but armies travel slowly. After months of waiting +and delay we reached the promised land. It +was all suddenly unfolded to our view when we +stood on the Khamba la. Below us was a purely +pastoral landscape. Beyond lay hills even more +barren and verdureless than those we had crossed. +But every mile or so green fan-shaped valleys, +irrigated by clear streams, interrupted the barrenness, +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_231">[Pg 231]</a></span> +opening out into the main valley east and +west with perfect symmetry. To the north-east +flowed the Kyi Chu, the valley in which Lhasa +lay screened, only fifty-six miles distant.</p> + +<p>To the south of the pass lay the great Yamdok +Lake, wild and beautiful, its channels twining +into the dark interstices of the hills—valleys of +mystery and gloom, where no white man has +ever trod. Lights and shadows fell caressingly +on the lake and hills. At one moment a peak +was ebony black, at another—as the heavy clouds +passed from over it, and the sun's rays illumined +it through a thin mist—golden as a field of buttercups. +Often at sunset the grassy cones of the +hills glow like gilded pagodas, and the Tibetans, +I am told, call these sunlit plots the 'golden +ground.'</p> + +<p>In bright sunlight the lake is a deep turquoise +blue, but at evening time transient lights and +shades fleet over it with the moving clouds, light +forget-me-not, deep purple, the azure of a butterfly's +wing—then all is swept away, immersed in +gloom, before the dark, menacing storm-clouds.</p> + +<p>On the 25th I crossed the river with the 1st +Mounted Infantry and 40th Pathans. My tent is +pitched on the roof of a rambling two-storied +house, under the shade of a great walnut-tree. +Crops, waist-deep, grow up to the walls—barley, +wheat, beans, and peas. On the roof are garden +flowers in pots, hollyhocks, and marigolds. The +cornfields are bright with English wild-flowers +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_232">[Pg 232]</a></span>— +dandelions, buttercups, astragalus, and a purple +Michaelmas daisy.</p> + +<p>There is no village, but farmhouses are dotted +about the valley, and groves of trees—walnut and +peach, and poplar and willow—enclosed within +stone walls. Wild birds that are almost tame are +nesting in the trees—black and white magpies, +crested hoopoes, and turtle-doves. The groves +are irrigated like the fields, and carpeted with +flowers. Homelike butterflies frequent them, and +honey-bees.</p> + +<p>Everything is homelike. There is no mystery +in the valley, except its access, or, rather, its inaccessibility. +We have come to it through snow +passes, over barren, rocky wildernesses; we have +won it with toil and suffering, through frost and +rain and snow and blistering sun.</p> + +<p>And now that we had found Arcady, I would +have stayed there. Lhasa was only four marches +distant, but to me, in that mood of almost immoral +indolence, it seemed that this strip of +verdure, with its happy pastoral scenes, was the +most impassable barrier that Nature had planted +in our path. Like the Tibetans, she menaced +and threatened us at first, then she turned to us +with smiles and cajoleries, entreating us to stay, +and her seduction was harder to resist.</p> + +<hr class="tb" /> + +<p>To trace the course of the Tsangpo River from +Tibet to its outlet into Assam has been the goal +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_233">[Pg 233]</a></span> +of travellers for over a century. Here is one of +the few unknown tracts of the world, where no +white man has ever penetrated. Until quite +recently there was a hot controversy among +geographers as to whether the Tsangpo was the +main feeder of the Brahmaputra or reappeared +in Burmah as the Irawaddy. All attempts to +explore the river from India have proved fruitless, +owing to the intense hostility of the Abor +and Passi Minyang tribes, who oppose all intrusion +with their poisoned arrows and stakes, sharp +and formidable as spears, cunningly set in the +ground to entrap invaders; while the vigilance +of the Lamas has made it impossible for any +European to get within 150 miles of the Tsangpo +Valley from Tibet. It was not until 1882 that +all doubt as to the identity of the Tsangpo and +Brahmaputra was set aside by the survey of the +native explorer A. K. And the course of the +Brahmaputra, or Dihong, as it is called in Northern +Assam, was never thoroughly investigated until +the explorations of Mr. Needham, the Political +Officer at Sadiya, and his trained Gurkhas, who +penetrated northwards as far as Gina, a village +half a day's journey beyond Passi Ghat, and only +about seventy miles south of the point reached by +A. K. from Tibet.</p> + +<p>The return of the British expedition from Tibet +was evidently the opportunity of a century for +the investigation of this unexplored country. We +had gained the hitherto inaccessible base, and +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_234">[Pg 234]</a></span> +were provided with supplies and transport on the +spot; we had no opposition to expect from the +Tibetans, who were naturally eager to help us +out of the country by whatever road we chose, +and had promised to send officials with us to +their frontier at Gyala Sendong, who would +forage for us and try to impress the villagers into +our service. The hostile tribes beyond the frontier +were not so likely to resist an expedition moving +south to their homes after a successful campaign +as a force entering their country from our Indian +frontier. In the latter case they would naturally +be more suspicious of designs on their independence. +The distance from Lhasa to Assam was +variously estimated from 500 to 700 miles. I +think the calculations were influenced, perhaps +unconsciously, by sympathy with, or aversion +from, the enterprise.</p> + +<hr class="tb" /> + +<p>The Shapés, it is true, though they promised to +help us if we were determined on it, advised us +emphatically not to go by the Tsangpo route. +They said that the natives of their own outlying +provinces were bandits and cut-throats, practically +independent of the Lhasa Government, +while the savages beyond the frontier were +dangerous people who obeyed no laws. The +Shapés' notions as to the course of the river +were most vague. When questioned, they said +there was a legend that it disappeared into a +hole in the earth. The country near its mouth +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_235">[Pg 235]</a></span> +was inhabited by savages, who went about unclothed, +and fed on monkeys and reptiles. It +was rumoured that they were horned like animals, +and that mothers did not know their own children. +But this they could not vouch for.</p> + +<p>It was believed that tracks of a kind existed +from village to village all along the route, but +these, of course, after a time would become impracticable +for pack transport. The mules would +have to be abandoned, and sent back to Gyantse +by our guides, or presented to the Tibetan officials +who accompanied us. Then we were to proceed +by forced marches through the jungle, with coolie +transport if obtainable; if not, each man was to +carry rice for a few days. The distance from the +Tibet frontier to Sadiya is not great, and the unexplored +country is reckoned not to be more than +seven stages. The force would bivouac, and, if +their advance were resisted, would confine themselves +solely to defensive tactics. In case of +opposition, the greatest difficulty would be the +care of the wounded, as each invalid would +need four carriers. Thus, a few casualties would +reduce enormously the fighting strength of the +escort.</p> + +<p>But opposition was unlikely. Mr. Needham, +who has made the tribes of the Dihong Valley +the study of a lifetime, and succeeded to some +extent in gaining their confidence, considered the +chances of resistance small. He would, he said, +send messages to the tribes that the force coming +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_236">[Pg 236]</a></span> +through their country from the north were his +friends, that they had been engaged in a punitive +expedition against the Lamas (whom the Abors +detested), that they were returning home by the +shortest route to Assam, and had no designs on +the territory they traversed. It was proposed +that Mr. Needham should go up the river as +far as possible and furnish the party with +supplies.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<a id="fp236-1"></a><a href="images/fp236-1.jpg"> +<img src="images/fp236-1s.jpg" alt="" title="" /></a> +<span class="caption"><br />Old Chain-Bridge at Chaksam.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<a id="fp236-2"></a><a href="images/fp236-2.jpg"> +<img src="images/fp236-2s.jpg" alt="" title="" /></a> +<span class="caption"><br />Crossing the Tsangpo.</span> +</div> + +<p>All arrangements had been made for the exploring-party, +which was to leave the main force +at Chaksam Ferry, and was expected to arrive in +Sadiya almost simultaneously with the winding +up of the expedition at Siliguri. Captain Ryder, +R.E., was to command the party, and his escort +was to be made up of the 8th Gurkhas, who had +long experience of the Assam frontier tribes, and +were the best men who could be chosen for the +work. Officers were selected, supply and transport +details arranged, everything was in readiness, +when at the last moment, only a day or two before +the party was to start, a message was received +from Simla refusing to sanction the expedition. +Colonel Younghusband was entirely in favour of +it, but the military authorities had a clean slate; +they had come through so far without a single +disaster, and it seemed that no scientific or +geographical considerations could have any +weight with them in their determination to take +no risks. Of course there were risks, and always +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_237">[Pg 237]</a></span> +must be in enterprises of the kind; but I think +the circumstances of the moment reduced them +to a minimum, and that the results to be obtained +from the projected expedition should have entirely +outweighed them.</p> + +<p>In European scientific circles much was expected +of the Tibetan expedition. But it has +added very little to science. The surveys that +were made have done little more than modify +the previous investigations of native surveyors.<a id="FNanchor_17_17"></a><a href="#Footnote_17_17" class="fnanchor">[17]</a></p> + +<p>An expedition to the mountains bordering the +Tengri Nor, only nine days north of Lhasa, would +have linked all the unknown country north of the +Tsang po with the tracts explored by Sven Hedin, +and left the map without a hiatus in four degrees +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_238">[Pg 238]</a></span> +of longitude from Cape Comorin to the Arctic +Ocean. But military considerations were paramount.</p> + +<p>For myself, the abandonment of the expedition +was a great disappointment. I had counted on +it as early as February, and had made all preparations +to join it.</p> +</div> + +<div class="chapter" id="chapter_13"> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_239">[Pg 239]</a></span></p> +<h2><a id="CHAPTER_XIII"></a><span>CHAPTER XIII</span> + +<small>LHASA AND ITS VANISHED DEITY</small></h2> + +<p><span class="smcap">The</span> passage of the river was difficult and dangerous. +If we had had to depend on the four +Berthon boats we took with us, the crossing +might have taken weeks. But the good fortune +that attended the expedition throughout did not +fail us. At Chaksam we found the Tibetans had +left behind their two great ferry-boats, quaint old +barges with horses' heads at the prow, capacious +enough to hold a hundred men. The Tibetan +ferrymen worked for us cheerfully. A number +of hide boats were also discovered. The transport +mules were swum over, and the whole force was +across in less than a week.</p> + +<p>But the river took its toll most tragically. +The current is swift and boisterous; the eddies +and whirlpools are dangerously uncertain. Two +Berthon boats, bound together into a raft, capsized, +and Major Bretherton, chief supply and +transport officer, and two Gurkhas were drowned. +It seemed as if the genius of the river, offended +at our intrusion, had claimed its price and carried +off the most valuable life in the force. It was +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_240">[Pg 240]</a></span> +Major Bretherton's foresight more than anything +that enabled us to reach Lhasa. His loss was +calamitous.</p> + +<p>We left our camp at the ferry on July 31, and +started for Lhasa, which was only forty-three +miles distant. It was difficult to believe that in +three days we would be looking on the Potala.</p> + +<p>The Kyi Chu, the holy river of Lhasa, flows into +the Tsangpo at Chushul, three miles below Chaksam +ferry, where our troops crossed. The river +is almost as broad as the Thames at Greenwich, +and the stream is swift and clear. The valley is +cultivated in places, but long stretches are bare +and rocky. Sand-dunes, overgrown with artemisia +scrub, extend to the margin of cultivation, +leaving a well-defined line between the green +cornfields and the barren sand. The crops were +ripening at the time of our advance, and promised +a plentiful harvest.</p> + +<p>For many miles the road is cut out of a precipitous +cliff above the river. A few hundred +men could have destroyed it in an afternoon, and +delayed our advance for another week. Newly-built +sangars at the entrance of the gorge showed +that the Tibetans had intended to hold it. But +they left the valley in a disorganized state the +day we reached the Tsangpo. Had they fortified +the position, they might have made it stronger +than the Karo la.</p> + +<p>The heat of the valley was almost tropical. +Summer by the Kyi Chu River is very different +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_241">[Pg 241]</a></span> +from one's first conceptions of Tibet. To escape +the heat, I used to write my diary in the shade of +gardens and willow groves. Hoopoes, magpies, +and huge black ravens became inquisitive and +confidential. I have a pile of little black notebooks +I scribbled over in their society, dirty and +torn and soiled with pressed flowers. For a +picture of the valley I will go to these. One's +freshest impressions are the best, and truer than +reminiscences.</p> + +<p class="right"><span class="r1"><span class="smcap">Nethang.</span></span></p> + +<p>In the most fertile part of the Kyi Chu Valley, +where the fields are intersected in all directions +by clear-running streams bordered with flowers, +in a grove of poplars where doves were singing +all day long, I found Atisa's tomb.</p> + +<p>It was built in a large, plain, barn-like building, +clean and sweet-smelling as a granary, and innocent +of ornament outside and in. It was the only +clean and simple place devoted to religion I had +seen in Tibet.</p> + +<p>In every house and monastery we entered on the +road there were gilded images, tawdry paintings, +demons and she-devils, garish frescoes on the +wall, hideous grinning devil-masks, all the Lama's +spurious apparatus of terrorism.</p> + +<p>These were the outward symbols of demonolatry +and superstition invented by scheming priests as +the fabric of their sacerdotalism. But this was +the resting-place of the Reformer, the true son +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_242">[Pg 242]</a></span> +of Buddha, who came over the Himalayas to +preach a religion of love and mercy.</p> + +<p>I entered the building out of the glare of the +sun, expecting nothing but the usual monsters +and abortions—just as one is dragged into a +church in some tourist-ridden land, where, if only +for the sake of peace, one must cast an apathetic +eye at the lions of the country. But as the +tomb gradually assumed shape in the dim light, +I knew that there was someone here, a priest or +a community, who understood Atisa, who knew +what he would have wished his last resting-place +to be; or perhaps the good old monk had left a +will or spoken a plain word that had been handed +down and remembered these thousand years, and +was now, no doubt, regarded as an eccentric's +whim, that there must be no gods or demons by +his tomb, nothing abnormal, no pretentiousness +of any kind. If his teaching had lived, how +simple and honest and different Tibet would be +to-day!</p> + +<p>The tomb was not beautiful—a large square +plinth, supporting layers of gradually decreasing +circumference and forming steps two feet in height, +the last a platform on which was based a substantial +vat-like structure with no ornament or +inscription except a thin line of black pencilled +saints. By climbing up the layers of masonry +I found a pair of slant eyes gazing at nothing +and hidden by a curve in the stone from gazers +below. This was the only painting on the tomb. +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_243">[Pg 243]</a></span></p> + +<p>Never in the thousand years since the good +monk was laid to rest at Nethang had a white +man entered this shrine. To-day the courtyard +was crowded with mules and drivers; Hindus and +Pathans in British uniform: they were ransacking +the place for corn. A transport officer was +shouting:</p> + +<p>'How many bags have you, babu?'</p> + +<p>'A hundred and seven, sir.'</p> + +<p>'Remember, if anyone loots, he will get fifty +<i>beynt</i>' (stripes with the cat-o'-nine-tails).</p> + +<p>Then he turned to me.</p> + +<p>'What the devil is that old thief doing over +there?' he said, and nodded at a man with +archæological interests, who was peering about +in a dark corner by the tomb. 'There is nothing +more here.'</p> + +<p>'He is examining Atisa's tomb.'</p> + +<p>'And who the devil is Atisa?'</p> + +<p>And who is he? Merely a name to a few dry-as-dust +pedants. Everything human he did is +forgotten. The faintest ripple remains to-day +from that stone cast into the stagnant waters so +many years ago. A few monks drone away their +days in a monastery close by. In the courtyard +there is a border of hollyhocks and snapdragon and +asters. Here the unsavoury guardians of Atisa's +tomb watch me as I write, and wonder what on +earth I am doing among them, and what spell or +mantra I am inscribing in the little black book +that shuts so tightly with a clasp. +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_244">[Pg 244]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<a id="fp244"></a><a href="images/fp244.jpg"> +<img src="images/fp244s.jpg" alt="" title="" /></a> +<span class="caption"><br />The Potala.</span> +</div> + +<p class="right"><span class="r1"><span class="smcap">Toilung.</span></span></p> + +<p>To-morrow we reach Lhasa.</p> + +<p>A few hours ago we caught the first glimpse +of the Potala Palace, a golden dome standing +out on a bluff rock in the centre of the valley. +The city is not seen from afar perched on a hill +like the great monasteries and jongs of the +country. It is literally 'hidden.' A rocky promontory +projects from the bleak hills to the +south like a screen, hiding Lhasa, as if Nature +conspired in its seclusion. Here at a distance +of seven miles we can see the Potala and the +Lamas' Medical College.</p> + +<p>Trees and undulating ground shut out the +view of the actual city until one is within a +mile of it.</p> + +<p>To-morrow we camp outside. It is nearly a +hundred years since Thomas Manning, the only +Englishman (until to-day) who ever saw Lhasa, +preceded us. Our journey has not been easy, +but we have come in spite of everything.</p> + +<p>The Lamas have opposed us with all their +material and spiritual resources. They have +fought us with medieval weapons and a medley +of modern firearms. They have held Commination +Services, recited mantras, and cursed us +solemnly for days. Yet we have come on.</p> + +<p>They have sent delegates and messengers of +every rank to threaten and entreat and plead +with us—emissaries of increasing importance as +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_245">[Pg 245]</a></span> +we have drawn nearer their capital, until the +Dalai Lama despatched his own Grand Chamberlain +and Grand Secretary, and, greater than these, +the Ta Lama and Yutok Shapé, members of the +ruling Council of Five, whose sacred persons had +never before been seen by European eyes. To-morrow +the Amban himself comes to meet Colonel +Younghusband. The Dalai Lama has sent him a +letter sealed with his own seal.</p> + +<p>Every stretch of road from the frontier to Lhasa +has had its symbol of remonstrance. Cairns and +chortens, and <i>mani</i> walls and praying-flags, +demons painted on the rock, writings on the +wall, white stones piled upon black, have emitted +their ray of protest and malevolence in vain.</p> + +<p>The Lamas knew we must come. Hundreds +of years ago a Buddhist saint wrote it in his book +of prophecies, Ma-ong Lung-Ten, which may be +bought to-day in the Lhasa book-shops. He +predicted that Tibet would be invaded and conquered +by the Philings (Europeans), when all of +the true religion would go to Chang Shambula, +the Northern Paradise, and Buddhism would +become extinct in the country.</p> + +<p>And now the Lamas believe that the prophecy +will be fulfilled by our entry into Lhasa, and that +their religion will decay before foreign influence. +The Dalai Lama, they say, will die, not by violence +or sickness, but by some spiritual visitation. His +spirit will seek some other incarnation, when he +can no longer benefit his people or secure his +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_246">[Pg 246]</a></span> +country, so long sacred to Buddhists, from the +contamination of foreign intrusion.</p> + +<p>The Tibetans are not the savages they are +depicted. They are civilized, if medieval. The +country is governed on the feudal system. The +monks are the overlords, the peasantry their +serfs. The poor are not oppressed. They and +the small tenant farmers work ungrudgingly for +their spiritual masters, to whom they owe a blind +devotion. They are not discontented, though +they give more than a tithe of their small income +to the Church. It must be remembered that +every family contributes at least one member to +the priesthood, so that, when we are inclined to +abuse the monks for consuming the greater part +of the country's produce, we should remember +that the laymen are not the victims of class prejudice, +the plebeians groaning under the burden +of the patricians, so much as the servants of a +community chosen from among themselves, and +with whom they are connected by family ties.</p> + +<p>No doubt the Lamas employ spiritual terrorism +to maintain their influence and preserve the temporal +government in their hands; and when they +speak of their religion being injured by our intrusion, +they are thinking, no doubt, of another unveiling +of mysteries, the dreaded age of materialism +and reason, when little by little their ignorant +serfs will be brought into contact with the facts +of life, and begin to question the justness of the +relations that have existed between themselves +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_247">[Pg 247]</a></span> +and their rulers for centuries. But at present +the people are medieval, not only in their system +of government and their religion, their inquisition, +their witchcraft, their incantations, their +ordeals by fire and boiling oil, but in every aspect +of their daily life.</p> + +<p>I question if ever in the history of the world +there has been another occasion when bigotry +and darkness have been exposed with such +abruptness to the inroad of science, when a +barrier of ignorance created by jealousy and fear +as a screen between two peoples living side by +side has been demolished so suddenly to admit +the light of an advanced civilization.</p> + +<p>The Tibetans, no doubt, will benefit, and +many abuses will be swept away. Yet there +will always be people who will hanker after the +medieval and romantic, who will say: 'We men +are children. Why could we not have been +content that there was one mystery not unveiled, +one country of an ancient arrested civilization, +and an established Church where men are still +guided by sorcery and incantations, and direct +their mundane affairs with one eye on a grotesque +spirit world, which is the most real thing +in their lives—a land of topsy-turvy and inverted +proportions, where men spend half their lives +mumbling unintelligible mantras and turning +mechanical prayers, and when dead are cut up +into mincemeat and thrown to the dogs and +vultures?' +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_248">[Pg 248]</a></span></p> + +<p>To-morrow, when we enter Lhasa, we will have +unveiled the last mystery <ins class="corr" title="the of">of the</ins> East. There are +no more forbidden cities which men have not +mapped and photographed. Our children will +laugh at modern travellers' tales. They will +have to turn again to Gulliver and Haroun al +Raschid. And they will soon tire of these. For +now that there are no real mysteries, no unknown +land of dreams, where there may still be genii +and mahatmas and bottle-imps, that kind of +literature will be tolerated no longer. Children +will be sceptical and matter-of-fact and disillusioned, +and there will be no sale for fairy-stories +any more.</p> + +<p>But we ourselves are children. Why could we +not have left at least one city out of bounds?</p> + +<p class="right"><span class="r1"><span class="smcap">Lhasa</span>,</span><br /> +<span class="r2"><i>August 3</i>.</span></p> + +<p>We reached Lhasa to-day, after a march of +seven miles, and camped outside the city. As +we approached, the road became an embankment +across a marsh. Butterflies and dragon-flies were +hovering among the rushes, clematis grew in the +stonework by the roadside, cows were grazing in +the rich pastureland, redshanks were calling, a +flight of teal passed overhead; the whole scene +was most homelike, save for the bare scarred +cliffs that jealously preclude a distant view of the +city.</p> + +<p>Some of us climbed the Chagpo Ri and looked +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_249">[Pg 249]</a></span> +down on the city. Lhasa lay a mile in front of +us, a mass of huddled roofs and trees, dominated +by the golden dome of the Jokhang Cathedral.</p> + +<p>It must be the most hidden city on earth. The +Chagpo Ri rises bluffly from the river-bank like a +huge rock. Between it and the Potala hill there +is a narrow gap not more than thirty yards wide. +Over this is built the Pargo Kaling, a typical +Tibetan chorten, through which is the main gateway +into Lhasa. The city has no walls, but +beyond the Potala, to complete the screen, +stretches a great embankment of sand right +across the valley to the hills on the north.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<a href="images/p249.png"><img src="images/p249s.png" alt="Diagram." title="" /></a> +</div> + +<p class="right"><span class="r1"><span class="smcap">Lhasa</span>,</span><br /> +<span class="r2"><i>August 4</i>.</span></p> + +<p>An epoch in the world's history was marked +to-day when Colonel Younghusband entered the +city to return the visit of the Chinese Amban. +He was accompanied by all the members of the +mission, the war correspondents, and an escort +of two companies of the Royal Fusiliers and +the 2nd Mounted Infantry. Half a company of +mounted infantry, two guns, a detachment of +sappers, and four companies of infantry were +held ready to support the escort if necessary.</p> + +<p>In front of us marched and rode the Amban's +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_250">[Pg 250]</a></span> +escort—his bodyguard, dressed in short loose +coats of French gray, embroidered in black, with +various emblems; pikemen clad in bright red with +black embroidery and black pugarees; soldiers +with pikes and scythes and three-pronged spears, +on all of which hung red banners with devices +embroidered in black.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<a id="fp250-1"></a><a href="images/fp250-1.jpg"> +<img src="images/fp250-1s.jpg" alt="" title="" /></a> +<span class="caption"><br />Entry into Lhasa.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<a id="fp250-2"></a><a href="images/fp250-2.jpg"> +<img src="images/fp250-2s.jpg" alt="" title="" /></a> +<span class="caption"><br />Corner of Courtyard of Astrologer's Temple, Nechang.</span> +</div> + +<p>We found the city squalid and filthy beyond +description, undrained and unpaved. Not a +single house looked clean or cared for. The +streets after rain are nothing but pools of stagnant +water frequented by pigs and dogs searching +for refuse. Even the Jokhang appeared mean +and squalid at close quarters, whence its golden +roofs were invisible. There was nothing picturesque +except the marigolds and hollyhocks in +pots and the doves and singing-birds in wicker +cages.</p> + +<p>The few Tibetans we met in the street were +strangely incurious. A baker kneading dough +glanced at us casually, and went on kneading. A +woman weaving barely looked up from her work.</p> + +<p>The streets were almost deserted, perhaps by +order of the authorities to prevent an outbreak. +But as we returned small crowds had gathered +in the doorways, women were peering through +windows, but no one followed or took more than +a listless interest in us. The monks looked on +sullenly. But in most faces one read only indifference +and apathy. One might think the +entry of a foreign army into Lhasa and the +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_251">[Pg 251]</a></span> +presence of English Political Officers in gold-laced +uniform and beaver hats were everyday +events.</p> + +<p>The only building in Lhasa that is at all imposing +is the Potala.</p> + +<p>It would be misleading to say that the palace +dominated the city, as a comparison would be +implied—a picture conveyed of one building +standing out signally among others. This is +not the case.</p> + +<p>The Potala is superbly detached. It is not a +palace on a hill, but a hill that is also a palace. +Its massive walls, its terraces and bastions +stretch upwards from the plain to the crest, as if +the great bluff rock were merely a foundation-stone +planted there at the divinity's nod. The +divinity dwells in the palace, and underneath, +at the distance of a furlong or two, humanity +is huddled abjectly in squalid smut-begrimed +houses. The proportion is that which exists +between God and man.</p> + +<p>If one approached within a league of Lhasa, +saw the glittering domes of the Potala, and turned +back without entering the precincts, one might +still imagine it an enchanted city, shining with turquoise +and gold. But having entered, the illusion +is lost. One might think devout Buddhists had +excluded strangers in order to preserve the myth +of the city's beauty and mystery and wealth, +or that the place was consciously neglected +and defaced so as to offer no allurements to +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_252">[Pg 252]</a></span> +heretics, just as the repulsive women one meets +in the streets smear themselves over with grease +and cutch to make themselves even more hideous +than Nature ordained.</p> + +<p>The place has not changed since Manning +visited it ninety years ago, and wrote:—'There is +nothing striking, nothing pleasing, in its appearance. +The habitations are begrimed with smut +and dirt. The avenues are full of dogs, some +growling and gnawing bits of hide that lie about +in profusion, and emit a charnel-house smell; +others limping and looking livid; others ulcerated; +others starved and dying, and pecked at by +ravens; some dead and preyed upon. In short, +everything seems mean and gloomy, and excites +the idea of something unreal.' That is the Lhasa +of to-day. Probably it was the same centuries +ago.</p> + +<p>Above all this squalor the Potala towers +superbly. Its golden roofs, shining in the sun +like tongues of fire, are a landmark for miles, and +must inspire awe and veneration in the hearts of +pilgrims coming from the desert parts of Tibet, +Kashmir, and Mongolia to visit the sacred city +that Buddha has blessed.</p> + +<p>The secret of romance is remoteness, whether +in time or space. If we could be thrown back to +the days of Agincourt we should be enchanted at +first, but after a week should vote everything +commonplace and dull. Falstaff, the beery lout, +would be an impossible companion, and Prince +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_253">[Pg 253]</a></span> +Hal a tiresome young cub who wanted a good +dressing-down. In travel, too, as one approaches +the goal, and the country becomes gradually +familiar, the husk of romance falls off. Childe +Roland must have been sadly disappointed in the +Dark Tower; filth and familiarity very soon +destroyed the romance of Lhasa.</p> + +<p>But romance still clings to the Potala. It is +still remote. Like Imray, its sacred inmate has +achieved the impossible. Divinity or no, he has +at least the divine power of vanishing. In the +material West, as we like to call it, we know how +hard it is for the humblest subject to disappear, in +spite of the confused hub of traffic and intricate +network of communications. Yet here in Lhasa, +a city of dreamy repose, a King has escaped, +been spirited into the air, and nobody is any the +wiser.</p> + +<p>When we paraded the city yesterday, we made +a complete circuit of the Potala. There was no +one, not even the humblest follower, so unimaginative +that he did not look up from time +to time at the frowning cliff and thousand sightless +windows that concealed the unknown. Those +hidden corridors and passages have been for centuries, +and are, perhaps, at this very moment, the +scenes of unnatural piety and crime.</p> + +<p>Within the precincts of Lhasa the taking of life +in any form is sacrilege. Buddha's first law was, +'Thou shalt not kill'; and life is held so sacred by +his devout followers that they are careful not to +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_254">[Pg 254]</a></span> +kill the smallest insect. Yet this palace, where +dwells the divine incarnation of the Bodhisat, the +head of the Buddhist Church, must have witnessed +more murders and instigations to crime than the +most blood-stained castle of medieval Europe.</p> + +<p>Since the assumption of temporal power by the +fifth Grand Lama in the middle of the seventeenth +century, the whole history of the Tibetan hierarchy +has been a record of bloodshed and intrigue. +The fifth Grand Lama, the first to receive the title +of Dalai, was a most unscrupulous ruler, who +secured the temporal power by inciting the +Mongols to invade Tibet, and received as his +reward the kingship. He then established his +claim to the godhead by tampering with Buddhist +history and writ. The sixth incarnation was +executed by the Chinese on account of his profligacy. +The seventh was deposed by the Chinese +as privy to the murder of the regent. After the +death of the eighth, of whom I can learn nothing, +it would seem that the tables were turned: the +regents systematically murdered their charge, +and the crime of the seventh Dalai Lama was +visited upon four successive incarnations. The +ninth, tenth, eleventh, and twelfth all died prematurely, +assassinated, it is believed, by their +regents.</p> + +<p>There are no legends of malmsey-butts, secret +smotherings, and hired assassins. The children +disappeared; they were absorbed into the Universal +Essence; they were literally too good to +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_255">[Pg 255]</a></span> +live. Their regents and protectors, monks only +less sacred than themselves, provided that the +spirit in its yearning for the next state should not +be long detained in its mortal husk. No questions +were asked. How could the devout trace the +comings and goings of the divine Avalokita, the +Lord of Mercy and Judgment, who ordains into +what heaven or hell, demon, god, hero, mollusc, +or ape, their spirits must enter, according to their +sins?</p> + +<p>So, when we reached Lhasa the other day, and +heard that the thirteenth incarnation had fled, no +one was surprised. Yet the wonder remains. A +great Prince, a god to thousands of men, has been +removed from his palace and capital, no one +knows whither or when. A ruler has disappeared +who travels with every appanage of state, inspiring +awe in his prostrate servants, whose movements, +one would think, were watched and talked +about more than any Sovereign's on earth. Yet +fear, or loyalty, or ignorance keeps every subject +tongue-tied.</p> + +<p>We have spies and informers everywhere, and +there are men in Lhasa who would do much to +please the new conquerors of Tibet. There are +also witless men, who have eyes and ears, but, it +seems, no tongues.</p> + +<p>But so far neither avarice nor witlessness has +betrayed anything. For all we know, the Dalai +Lama may be still in his palace in some hidden +chamber in the rock, or maybe he has never left +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_256">[Pg 256]</a></span> +his customary apartments, and still performs his +daily offices in the Potala, confident that there +at least his sanctity is inviolable by unbelievers.</p> + +<p>The British Tommy in the meanwhile parades +the streets as indifferently as if they were the +New Cut or Lambeth Palace Road. He looks up +at the Potala, and says: 'The old bloke's done a +bunk. Wish we'd got 'im; we might get 'ome +then.'</p> + +<p class="right"><span class="r1"><span class="smcap">Lhasa</span>,</span><br /> +<span class="r2"><i>August</i> —.</span></p> + +<p>We had been in Lhasa nearly three weeks +before we could discover where the Dalai Lama +had fled. We know now that he left his palace +secretly in the night, and took the northern road +to Mongolia. The Buriat, Dorjieff met him at +Nagchuka, on the verge of the great desert that +separates inhabited Tibet from Mongolia, 100 miles +from Lhasa. On the 20th the Amban told us +that he had already left Nagchuka twelve days, +and was pushing on across the desert to the +frontier.</p> + +<p>I have been trying to find out something about +the private life and character of the Grand Lama. +But asking questions here is fruitless; one can +learn nothing intimate. And this is just what +one might expect. The man continues a bogie, +a riddle, undivinable, impersonal, remote. The +people know nothing. They have bowed before +the throne as men come out of the dark into a +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_257">[Pg 257]</a></span> +blinding light. Scrutiny in their view would be +vain and blasphemous. The Abbots, too, will +reveal nothing; they will not and dare not. +When Colonel Younghusband put the question +direct to a head Lama in open durbar, 'Have +you news of the Dalai Lama? Do you know +where he is?' the monk looked slowly to left and +right, and answered, 'I know nothing.' 'The +ruler of your country leaves his palace and +capital, and you know nothing?' the Commissioner +asked. 'Nothing,' answered the monk, +shuffling his feet, but without changing colour.</p> + +<p>From various sources, which differ surprisingly +little, I have a fairly clear picture of the man's +face and figure. He is thick-set, about five feet +nine inches in height, with a heavy square jaw, nose +remarkably long and straight for a Tibetan, +eyebrows pronounced and turning upwards in a +phenomenal manner—probably trained so, to +make his appearance more forbidding—face pockmarked, +general expression resolute and sinister. +He goes out very little, and is rarely seen by the +people, except on his annual visit to Depung, +and during his migrations between the Summer +Palace and the Potala. He was at the Summer +Palace when the messenger brought the news that +our advance was inevitable, but he went to the +Potala to put his house in order before projecting +himself into the unknown.</p> + +<p>His face is the index of his character. He is a +man of strong personality, impetuous, despotic, +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_258">[Pg 258]</a></span> +and intolerant of advice in State affairs. He is +constantly deposing his Ministers, and has +estranged from himself a large section of the +upper classes, both ecclesiastical and official, +owing to his wayward and headstrong disposition. +As a child he was so precociously acute and +resolute that he survived his regent, and so +upset the traditional policy of murder, being the +only one out of the last five incarnations to reach +his majority. Since he took the government of +the country into his own hands he has reduced the +Chinese suzerainty to a mere shadow, and, with +fatal results to himself, consistently insulted and +defied the British. His inclination to a rapprochement +with Russia is not shared by his Ministers.</p> + +<p>The only glimpse I have had into the man +himself was reflected in a conversation with the +Nepalese Resident, a podgy little man, very ugly +and good-natured, with the manners of a French +comedian and a face generally expanded in a broad +grin. He shook with laughter when I asked him +if he knew the Dalai Lama, and the idea was +really intensely funny, this mercurial, irreverent +little man hobnobbing with the divine. 'I have +seen him,' he said, and exploded again. 'But +what does he do all day?' I asked. The Resident +puckered up his brow, aping abstraction, and +began to wave his hand in the air solemnly with +a slow circular movement, mumbling '<i>Om man +Padme om</i>' to the revolutions of an imaginary +praying-wheel. He was immensely pleased with +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_259">[Pg 259]</a></span> +the effort and the effect it produced on a sepoy +orderly. 'But has he no interests or amusements?' +I asked. The Resident could think of +none. But he told me a story to illustrate the +dulness of the man, for whom he evidently had +no reverence. On his return from his last visit +to India, the Maharaja of Nepal had given him +a phonograph to present to the Priest-King. +The impious toy was introduced to the Holy of +Holies, and the Dalai Lama walked round it +uneasily as it emitted the strains of English +band music, and raucously repeated an indelicate +Bhutanese song. After sitting a long while in +deep thought, he rose and said he could not live +with this voice without a soul; it must leave his +palace at once. The rejected phonograph found +a home with the Chinese Amban, to whom it was +presented with due ceremonial the same day. +'The Lama is <i>gumar</i>,' the Resident said, using a +Hindustani word which may be translated, according +to our charity, by anything between 'boorish' +and 'unenlightened.' I was glad to meet a man +in this city of evasiveness whose views were +positive, and who was eager to communicate +them. Through him I tracked the shadow, as it +were, of this impersonality, and found that to +many strangers in Lhasa, and perhaps to a few +Lhasans themselves, the divinity was all clay, a +palpable fraud, a pompous and puritanical dullard +masquerading as a god.</p> + +<p>For my own part, I think the oracle that +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_260">[Pg 260]</a></span> +counselled his flight wiser than the statesmen who +object that it was a political mistake. He has +lost his prestige, they say. But imagine him +dragged into durbar as a signatory, gazed at by +profane eyes, the subject of a few days' gossip +and comment, then sunk into commonplace, +stripped of his mystery like this city of Lhasa, +through which we now saunter familiarly, +wondering when we shall start again for the +<i>wilds</i>.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<a id="fp260-1"></a><a href="images/fp260-1.jpg"> +<img src="images/fp260-1s.jpg" alt="" title="" /></a> +<span class="caption"><br />The Potala, West Front.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<a id="fp260-2"></a><a href="images/fp260-2.jpg"> +<img src="images/fp260-2s.jpg" alt="" title="" /></a> +<span class="caption"><br />Mounted Infantry Guard at the Potala.</span> +</div> + +<p>To escape this ordeal he has fled, and to us, +at least, his flight has deepened the mystery +that envelops him, and added to his dignity and +remoteness; to thousands of mystical dreamers +it has preserved the effulgence of his godhead +unsoiled by contact with the profane world.</p> + +<p>From our camp here the Potala draws the eye +like a magnet. There is nothing but sky and +marsh and bleak hill and palace. When we look +out of our tents in the morning, the sun is striking +the golden roof like a beacon light to the faithful. +Nearly every day in August this year has opened +fine and closed with storm-clouds gathering from +the west, through which the sun shines, bathing +the eastern valley in a soft, pearly light. The +western horizon is dark and lowering, the eastern +peaceful and serene. In this division of darkness +and light the Potala stands out like a haven, not +flaming now, but faintly luminous with a restful +mystic light, soothing enough to rob Buddhist +metaphysics of its pessimism and induce a mood, +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_261">[Pg 261]</a></span> +even in unbelievers, in which one is content to +merge the individual and become absorbed in the +universal spirit of Nature.</p> + +<p>No wonder that, when one looks for mystery in +Lhasa, one's thoughts dwell solely on the Dalai +Lama and the Potala. I cannot help dwelling +on the flight of the thirteenth incarnation. It +plunges us into medievalism. To my mind, there is +no picture so romantic and engrossing in modern +history as that exodus, when the spiritual head of +the Buddhist Church, the temporal ruler of six +millions, stole out of his palace by night and was +borne away in his palanquin, no one knows on +what errand or with what impotent rage in his +heart. The flight was really secret. No one but +his immediate confidants and retainers, not even +the Amban himself, knew that he had gone. I +can imagine the awed attendants, the burying of +treasure, the locking and sealing of chests, faint +lights flickering in the passages, hurried footsteps +in the corridors, dogs barking intermittently at +this unwonted bustle—I feel sure the Priest-King +kicked one as he stepped on the terrace for the +last time. Then the procession by moonlight up +the narrow valley to the north, where the roar of +the stream would drown the footsteps of the +palanquin-bearers.</p> + +<p>A month afterwards I followed on his track, +and stood on the Phembu Pass twelve miles north +of Lhasa, whence one looks down on the huge belt +of mountains that lie between the Brahmaputra +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_262">[Pg 262]</a></span> +and the desert, so packed and huddled that their +crests look like one continuous undulating plain +stretching to the horizon. Looking across the +valley, I could see the northern road to Mongolia +winding up a feeder of the Phembu Chu. They +passed along here and over the next range, and +across range after range, until they reached the +two conical snow-peaks that stand out of the plain +beside Tengri Nor, a hundred miles to the north. +For days they skirted the great lake, and then, as +if they feared the Nemesis of our offended Raj +could pursue them to the end of the earth, broke +into the desert, across which they must be hurrying +now toward the great mountain chain of Burkhan +Buddha, on the southern limits of Mongolia.</p> + +<p class="right"><span class="r1"><span class="smcap">Lhasa</span>,</span><br /> +<span class="r2"><i>August 19</i>.</span></p> + +<p>The Tibetans are the strangest people on earth. +To-day I discovered how they dispose of their +dead.</p> + +<p>To hold life sacred and benefit the creatures are +the laws of Buddha, which they are supposed to +obey most scrupulously. And as they think they +may be reborn in any shape of mammal, bird, or +fish, they are kind to living things.</p> + +<p>During the morning service the Lamas repeat +a prayer for the minute insects which they have +swallowed inadvertently in their meat and drink, +and the formula insures the rebirth of these +microbes in heaven. Sometimes, when a Lama's +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_263">[Pg 263]</a></span> +life is despaired of, the monks will ransom a yak +or a bullock from the shambles, and keep him a +pensioner in their monastery, praying the good +Buddha to spare the sick man's life for the life +ransomed. Yet they eat meat freely, all save +the Gelug-pa, or Reformed Church, and square +their conscience with their appetite by the pretext +that the sin rests with the outcast assassin, the +public butcher, who will be born in the next +incarnation as some tantalized spirit or agonized +demon. That, however, is his own affair.</p> + +<p>But it is when a Tibetan dies that his charity +to the creatures becomes really practical. Then, +by his own tacit consent when living, his body is +given as a feast to the dogs and vultures. This +is no casual or careless gift to avoid the trouble of +burial or cremation. All creatures who have a +taste for these things are invited to the ceremony, +and the corpse is carved to their liking by an +expert, who devotes his life to the practice.</p> + +<p>When a Tibetan dies he is left three days in his +chamber, and a slit is made in his skull to let his +soul pass out. Then he is rolled into a ball, +wrapped in a sack, or silk if he is rich, packed +into a jar or basket, and carried along to the +music of conch shells to the ceremonial stone. +Here a Lama takes the corpse out of its vessel and +wrappings, and lays it face downwards on a large +flat slab, and the pensioners prowl or hop round, +waiting for their dole. They are quite tame. +The Lamas stand a little way apart, and see that +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_264">[Pg 264]</a></span> +strict etiquette is observed during the entertainment. +The carver begins at the ankle, and cuts +upwards, throwing little strips of flesh to the +guests; the bones he throws to a second attendant, +who pounds them up with a heavy stone.</p> + +<p>I passed the place to-day as I rode in from a +reconnaissance. The slab lies a stone's-throw +to the left of the great northern road to Tengri +Nor and Mongolia, about two miles from the city.</p> + +<p>A group of stolid vultures, too demoralized to +range in search of carrion, stood motionless on a +rock above, waiting the next dispenser of charity.</p> + +<p>A few ravens hopped about sadly; they, too, +were evidently pauperized. One magpie was +prying round in suspicious proximity, and dogs +conscious of shame slunk about without a bark +in them, and nosed the ground diligently. They +are always there, waiting.</p> + +<p>There was hardly a stain on the slab, so quick +and eager are the applicants for charity. Only +a few rags lay around, too poor to be carried away.</p> + +<p>I have not seen the ceremony, and I have no +mind to. My companion this morning, a hardened +young subaltern who was fighting nearly every +day in April, May, and June, and has seen more +bloodshed than most veterans, saw just as much +as I have described. He then felt very ill, dug +his spurs into his horse, and rode away.</p> +</div> + +<div class="chapter" id="chapter_14"> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_265">[Pg 265]</a></span></p> +<h2><a id="CHAPTER_XIV"></a><span>CHAPTER XIV</span> + +<small>THE CITY AND ITS TEMPLES</small></h2> + +<p><span class="smcap">By</span> the first week in September I had visited all +the most important temples and monasteries in +Lhasa. We generally went in parties of four and +five, and a company of Sikhs or Pathans was left +in the courtyard in case of accidents. We were +well armed, as the monks were sullen, though I +do not think they were capable of any desperate +fanaticism. If they had had the abandon of +dervishes, they might have rushed our camp long +before. They missed their chance at Gyantse, +when a night attack pushed home by overwhelming +numbers could have wiped out our little garrison. +In Lhasa there was the one case of the +Lama who ran amuck outside the camp with the +coat of mail and huge paladin's sword concealed +beneath his cloak, a medieval figure who thrashed +the air with his brand like a flail in sheer lust of +blood. He was hanged medievally the next day +within sight of Lhasa. Since then the exploit +has not been repeated, but no one leaves the +perimeter unarmed.</p> + +<p>I have written of the squalor of the Lhasa +streets. The environs of the city are beautiful +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_266">[Pg 266]</a></span> +enough—willow groves intersected by clear-running +streams, walled-in parks with palaces and +fish-ponds, marshes where the wild-duck flaunt +their security, and ripe barley-fields stretching +away to the hills. In September the trees +were wearing their autumn tints, the willows +were mostly a sulphury yellow, and in the pools +beneath the red-stalked <i>polygonum</i> and burnished +dock-leaf glowed in brilliant contrast. Just before +dusk there was generally a storm in the valley, +which only occasionally reached the city; but the +breeze stirred the poplars, and the silver under the +leaves glistened brightly against the background +of clouds. Often a rainbow hung over the Potala +like a nimbus.</p> + +<p>On the Lingkhor, or circular road, which winds +round Lhasa, we saw pilgrims and devotees moving +slowly along in prayer, always keeping the Potala +on their right hand. The road is only used for +devotion. One meets decrepit old women and +men, halting and limping and slowly revolving +their prayer-wheels and mumbling charms. I +never saw a healthy yokel or robust Lama performing +this rite. Nor did I see the pilgrims +whom one reads of as circumambulating the city +on their knees by a series of prostrations, bowing +their heads in the dust and mud. All the devotees +are poor and ragged, and many blind. It seems +that the people of Lhasa do not begin to think +of the next incarnation until they have nothing +left in this. +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_267">[Pg 267]</a></span></p> + +<p>When one leaves the broad avenues between the +walls of the groves and pleasure-gardens, and +enters the city, one's senses are offended by everything +that is unsightly and unclean. Pigs and +pariah dogs are nosing about in black oozy mud. +The houses are solid but dirty. It is hard to +believe that they are whitewashed every year.</p> + +<p>Close to the western entrance are the huts of +the Ragyabas, beggars, outcasts, and scavengers, +who cut up the dead. The outer walls of their +houses are built of yak-horns.</p> + +<p>Some of the houses had banks of turf built up +outside the doors, with borders of English flowers. +The dwellings are mostly two or three storied. +Bird-cages hang from the windows.</p> + +<p>The outside of the cathedral is not at all imposing. +From the streets one cannot see the +golden roof, but only high blank walls, and at +the entrance a forest of dingy pillars beside a +massive door. The door is thrown open by a +sullen monk, and a huge courtyard is revealed +with more dingy pillars that were once red. The +entire wall is covered with paintings of Buddhist +myth and symbolism. The colours are subdued +and pleasing. In the centre of the yard are +masses of hollyhocks, marigolds, nasturtiums, and +stocks. Beside the flower-borders is a pyramidical +structure in which are burnt the leaves +of juniper and pine for sacrifice.</p> + +<p>The cloisters are two-storied; on the upper +floor the monks have their cells. Looking up, +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_268">[Pg 268]</a></span> +one can see hundreds of them gazing at us with +interest over the banisters. The upper story, as +in every temple in Tibet, is coated with a dark +red substance which looks like rough paint, but +is really sacred earth, pasted on to evenly-clipped +brushwood so as to seem like a continuation of the +masonry. On the face of the wall are emblems in +gilt, Buddhist symbols, like our Prince of Wales's +feathers, sun and crescent moon, and various other +devices. A heavy curtain of yak-hair hangs above +the entrance-gate. On the roof are large cylinders +draped in yak-hair cloth topped by a crescent or +a spear. Every monastery and jong, and most +houses in Tibet, are ornamented with these. +When one first sees them in the distance they +look like men walking on the roof.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<a id="fp268-1"></a><a href="images/fp268-1.jpg"> +<img src="images/fp268-1s.jpg" alt="" title="" /></a> +<span class="caption"><br />Metal Bowls outside the Jokhang.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<a id="fp268-2"></a><a href="images/fp268-2.jpg"> +<img src="images/fp268-2s.jpg" alt="" title="" /></a> +<span class="caption"><br />Street Scene in Lhasa.</span> +</div> + +<p>Generally one ascends steps from the outer +courtyard to the temple, but in the Jokhang the +floors are level. We enter the main temple by a +dark passage. The great doorway that opens +into the street has been closed behind us, but we +leave a company of Pathans in the outer yard, +as the monks are sullen. Our party of four is +armed with revolvers.</p> + +<p>Service is being held before the great Buddhas +as we enter, and a thunderous harmony like an +organ-peal breaks the interval for meditation. +The Abbot, who is in the centre, leans forward +from his chair and takes a bundle of peacock-feathers +from a vase by his side. As he points +it to the earth there is a clashing of cymbals, a +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_269">[Pg 269]</a></span> +beating of drums, and a blowing of trumpets and +conch shells.</p> + +<p>Then the music dies away like the reverberation +of cannon in the hills. The Abbot begins the +chant, and the monks, facing each other like +singing-men in a choir, repeat the litany. They +have extraordinary deep, devotional voices, at +once unnatural and impressive. The deepest +bass of the West does not approach it, and their +sense of time is perfect.</p> + +<p>The voice of the thousand monks is like the +drone of some subterranean monster, musically +plaintive—the wail of the Earth God praying for +release to the God of the Skies.</p> + +<p>The chant sounds like the endless repetition of +the same formula; the monks sway to it rhythmically. +The temple would be dark if it were not +for the flickering of many thousands of votive +candles and butter lamps. Rows upon rows of +them are placed before every shrine.</p> + +<p>In an inner temple we found the three great +images of the Buddhist trinity—the Buddhas of +the past, present, and future. The images were +greater than life-size, and set with jewels from +foot to crown. As in the cloisters of an English +cathedral, there were little side-chapels, which +held sacred relics and shrines.</p> + +<p>There were lamps of gold, and solid golden +bowls set on altars, and embossed salvers of copper +and bronze.</p> + +<p>A hanging grille of chainwork protected the +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_270">[Pg 270]</a></span> +precincts from sacrilege, and an extended hand, +bloody and menacing, was stretched from the +wall, terrible enough when suddenly revealed in +that dim light to paralyze and strike to earth +with fright any profane thief who would dare to +enter.</p> + +<p>In the upper story we found a place which we +called 'Hell,' where some Lamas were worshipping +the demon protectress of the Grand Lama. The +music here was harsh and barbaric. There were +displayed on the pillars and walls every freak of +diabolical invention in the shape of scrolls and +devil-masks. The obscene object of this worship +was huddled in a corner—a dwarfish abortion, +hideous and malignant enough for such rites.</p> + +<p>All about the Lamas' feet ran little white mice +searching for grain. They are fed daily, and are +scrupulously reverenced, as in their frail white +bodies the souls of the previous guardians of the +shrine are believed to be reincarnated.</p> + +<p>In another temple we found the Lamas holding +service in worship of the many-handed Buddha, +Avalokitesvara. The picture of the god hung +from pillars by the altar. The chief Lamas were +wearing peaked caps picturesquely coloured with +subdued blue and gold, and vestments of the +same hue. The lesser Lamas were bare-headed, +and their hair was cropped.</p> + +<p>When we first entered, an acolyte was pouring +tea out of a massive copper pot with a turquoise +on the spout. Each monk received his tea in a +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_271">[Pg 271]</a></span> +wooden bowl, and poured in barley-flour to make +a paste.</p> + +<p>During this interval no one spoke or whispered. +The footsteps of the acolytes were noiseless. +Only the younger ones looked up at us self-consciously +as we watched them from a latticed +window in the corridor above.</p> + +<p>Centuries ago this service was ordained, and +the intervals appointed to further the pursuit +of truth through silence and abstraction. The +monks sat there quiet as stone. They had seen +us, but they were seemingly oblivious.</p> + +<p>One wondered, were they pursuing truth or were +they petrified by ritual and routine? Did they +regard us as immaterial reflexes, unsubstantial +and illusory, passing shadows of the world cast +upon them by an instant's illusion, to pass away +again into the unreal, while they were absorbed +in the contemplation of changeless and universal +truths? Or were we noted as food for gossip +and criticism when their self-imposed ordeal was +done?</p> + +<p>The reek of the candles was almost suffocating. +'Thank God I am not a Lama!' said a subaltern +by my side. An Afridi Subadar let the butt of +his rifle clank from his boot to the pavement.</p> + +<p>At these calls to sanity we clattered out of +this unholy atmosphere of dreams as if by an +unquestioned impulse into the bright sunshine +outside.</p> + +<p>In the bazaar there is a gay crowd. The streets +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_272">[Pg 272]</a></span> +are thronged by as good-natured a mob as I have +met anywhere. Sullenness and distrust have +vanished. Officers and men, Tommies, Gurkhas, +Sikhs, and Pathans, are stared at and criticised +good-humouredly, and their accoutrements fingered +and examined. It is a bright and interesting +crowd, full of colour. In a corner of the square +a street singer with a guitar and dancing children +attracts a small crowd. His voice is a rich baritone, +and he yodels like the Tyrolese. The crowd +is parted by a Shapé riding past in gorgeous yellow +silks and brocades, followed by a mounted retinue +whose head-gear would be the despair of an +operatic hatter. They wear red lamp-shades, +yellow motor-caps, exaggerated Gainsboroughs, +inverted cooking-pots, coal-scuttles, and medieval +helmets. And among this topsy-turvy, which does +not seem out of place in Lhasa, the most eccentrically-hatted +man is the Bhutanese Tongsa +Penlop, who parades the streets in an English +gray felt hat.</p> + +<p>The Mongolian caravan has arrived in Lhasa, +after crossing a thousand miles of desert and +mountain tracks. The merchants and drivers +saunter about the streets, trying not to look too +rustic. But they are easily recognisable—tall, +sinewy men, very independent in gait, with faces +burnt a dark brick red by exposure to the wind +and sun. I saw one of their splendidly robust +women, clad in a sheepskin cloak girdled at the +waist, bending over a cloth stall, and fingering +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_273">[Pg 273]</a></span> +samples as if shopping were the natural business +of her life.</p> + +<p>On fine days the wares are spread on the cobbles +of the street, and the coloured cloth and china +make a pretty show against the background of +garden flowers. At the doors of the shops stand +pale Nuwaris, whose ancestors from Nepal settled +in Lhasa generations ago. They wear a flat +brown cap, and a dull russet robe darker than +that of the Lamas. The Cashmiri shopkeepers +are turbaned, and wear a cloak of butcher's blue. +They and the Nuwaris and the Chinese seem to +monopolize the trade of the city.</p> + +<p>British officers haunt the bazaars searching for +curios, but with very little success. Lhasa has +no artistic industries; nearly all the knick-knacks +come from India and China. Cloisonné ware is +rare and expensive, as one has to pay for the +1,800 miles of transport from Peking. Religious +objects are not sold. Turquoises are plentiful, +but coarse and inferior. Hundreds of paste +imitations have been bought. There is a certain +sale for amulets, rings, bells, and ornaments for +the hair, but these and the brass and copper work +can be bought for half the price in the Darjeeling +bazaar. The few relics we have found of the +West must have histories. In the cathedral there +was a bell with the inscription 'Te Deum laudamus,' +probably a relic of the Capuchins. In the +purlieus of the city we found a bicycle without +tyres, and a sausage-machine made in Birmingham. +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_274">[Pg 274]</a></span></p> + +<p>With the exception of the cathedral, most of +the temples and monasteries are on the outskirts +of the city. There is a sameness about these +places of worship that would make description +tedious. Only the Ramo-ché and Moru temples, +which are solely devoted to sorcery, are different. +Here one sees the other soul-side of the people.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<a id="fp274-1"></a><a href="images/fp274-1.jpg"> +<img src="images/fp274-1s.jpg" alt="" title="" /></a> +<span class="caption"><br />The Tsarung Shapé.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<a id="fp274-2"></a><a href="images/fp274-2.jpg"> +<img src="images/fp274-2s.jpg" alt="" title="" /></a> +<span class="caption"><br />Mongolians in Lhasa.</span> +</div> + +<p>The Ramo-ché is as dark and dingy as a vault. +On each side of the doorway are three gigantic +tutelary demons. In the vestibule is a collection +of bows, arrows, chain-armour, stag-horns, stuffed +animals, scrolls, masks, skulls, and all the paraphernalia +of devil-worship. On the left is a dark +recess where drums are being beaten by an unseen +choir.</p> + +<p>A Lama stands, chalice in hand, before a deep +aperture cut in the wall like a buttery hatch, and +illumined by dim, flickering candles, which reveal +a malignant female fiend. As a second priest +pours holy water into a chalice, the Lama raises +it solemnly again and again, muttering spells to +propitiate the fury.</p> + +<p>In the hall there are neither ornaments, gods, +hanging canopies, nor scrolls, as in the other +temples. There is neither congregation nor +priests. The walls are apparently black and unpainted, +but here and there a lamp reveals a +Gorgon's head, a fiend's eye, a square inch or two +of pigment that time has not obscured.</p> + +<p>The place is immemorially old. There are huge +vessels of carved metal and stone, embossed, like +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_275">[Pg 275]</a></span> +the roof, with griffins and skulls, which probably +date back to before the introduction of Buddhism +into Tibet, and are survivals of the old Bon +religion. There is nothing bright here in colour +or sound, nothing vivid or animated.</p> + +<p>Stricken men and women come to remove a +curse, vindictive ones to inflict one, bereaved ones +to pay the initiated to watch the adventures of +the soul in purgatory and guide it on its passage +to the new birth, while demons and furies are +lurking to snatch it with fiery claws and drag it +to hell.</p> + +<p>All these beings must be appeased by magic +rites. So in the Ramo-ché there is no rapture of +music, no communion with Buddha, no beatitudes, +only solitary priests standing before the shrines +and mumbling incantations, dismal groups of two +or three seated Buddha-fashion on the floor, and +casting spells to exercise a deciding influence, as +they hope, in the continual warfare which is +being waged between the tutelary and malignant +deities for the prize of a soul.</p> + +<p>In the chancel of the temple, behind the altar, is +a massive pile of masonry stretching from floor +to roof, under which, as folk believe, an abysmal +chasm leads down to hell. Round this there is a +dark and narrow passage which pilgrims circumambulate. +The floor and walls are as slippery as +ice, worn by centuries of pious feet and groping +hands. One old woman in some urgent need is +drifting round and round abstractedly. +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_276">[Pg 276]</a></span></p> + +<p>Elsewhere one might linger in the place fascinated, +but here in Lhasa one moves among +mysteries casually; for one cannot wonder, in this +isolated land where the elements are so aggressive, +among these deserts and wildernesses, heaped +mountain chains, and impenetrable barriers of +snow, that the children of the soil believe that +earth, air, and water are peopled by demons who +are struggling passionately over the destinies of +man.</p> + +<p>I will not describe any more of the Lhasa +temples. One shrine is very like another, and +details would be tedious. Personally, I do not +care for systematic sightseeing, even in Lhasa, +but prefer to loiter about the streets and bazaars, +and the gardens outside the city, watch the people, +and enjoy the atmosphere of the place. The +religion of Tibet is picturesque enough in an +unwholesome way, but to inquire how the layers +of superstition became added to the true faith, +and trace the growth of these spurious accretions, +I leave to archæologists. Perhaps one reader in +a hundred will be interested to know that a temple +was built by the illustrious Konjo, daughter of the +Emperor Tai-Tsung and wife of King Srong-btsan-gombo, +but I think the other ninety and nine will +be devoutly thankful if I omit to mention it.</p> + +<p>Yet one cannot leave the subject of the Lhasa +monasteries without remarking on the striking +resemblance between Tibetan Lamaism and the +Romish Church. The resemblance cannot be +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_277">[Pg 277]</a></span> +accidental. The burning of candles before altars, +the sprinkling of holy water, the chanting of +hymns in alternation, the giving alms and saying +Masses for the dead, must have their origin in the +West. We know that for many centuries large +Christian communities have existed in Western +China near the Tibetan frontier, and several +Roman Catholic missionaries have penetrated to +Lhasa and other parts of Tibet during the last +three centuries. As early <ins class="corr" title="a">as</ins> 1641 the Jesuit +Father Grueber visited Lhasa, and recorded that +the Lamas wore caps and mitres, that they used +rosaries, bells, and censers, and observed the +practice of confession, penance, and absolution. +Besides these points common to Roman Catholicism, +he noticed the monastic and conventual +system, the tonsure, the vows of poverty, chastity, +and obedience, the doctrine of incarnation and the +Trinity, and the belief in purgatory and paradise.<a id="FNanchor_18_18"></a><a href="#Footnote_18_18" class="fnanchor">[18]</a></p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_278">[Pg 278]</a></span></p> + +<p>We occasionally saw a monk with the refined +ascetic face of a Roman Cardinal. Te Rinpoche, +the acting regent, was an example. One or two +looked as if they might be humane and benevolent—men +who might make one accept the gentle old +Lama in 'Kim' as a not impossible fiction; but +most of them appeared to me to be gross and +sottish. I must confess that during the protracted +negociations at Lhasa I had little sympathy with +the Lamas. It is a mistake to think that they +keep their country closed out of any religious +scruple. Buddhism in its purest form is not +exclusive or fanatical. Sakya Muni preached a +missionary religion. He was Christlike in his +universal love and his desire to benefit all living +creatures. But Buddhism in Tibet has become +more and more degenerate, and the Lamaist +Church is now little better than a political +mechanism whose chief function is the uncompromising +exclusion of foreigners. The Lamas +know that intercourse with other nations must +destroy their influence with the people.</p> + +<p>And Tibet is really ruled by the Lamas. Outside +Lhasa are the three great monasteries of +Depung, Sera, and Gaden, whose Abbots, backed +by a following of nearly 30,000 armed and bigoted +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_279">[Pg 279]</a></span> +monks, maintain a preponderating influence in +the national assembly.<a id="FNanchor_19_19"></a><a href="#Footnote_19_19" class="fnanchor">[19]</a> These men wield a +greater influence than the four Shapés or the +Dalai Lama himself, and practically dictate the +policy of the country.</p> + +<p>The three great monasteries are of ancient +foundation, and intimately associated with the +history of the country. They are, in fact, ecclesiastical +Universities,<a id="FNanchor_20_20"></a><a href="#Footnote_20_20" class="fnanchor">[20]</a> and resemble in many ways +our Universities of Oxford and Cambridge. The +Universities are divided into colleges. Each has +its own Abbot, or Master, and disciplinary staff. +The undergraduates, or candidates for ordination, +must attend lectures and chapels, and pass +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_280">[Pg 280]</a></span> +examinations in set books, which they must learn +from cover to cover before they can take their +degree. Failure in examination, as well as +breaches in discipline and manners, are punished +by flogging. Corporal punishment is also dealt +out to the unfortunate tutors, who are held +responsible for their pupils' omissions. If a +candidate repeatedly fails to pass his examination, +he is expelled from the University, and can only +enter again on payment of increased fees. The +three leading Universities are empowered to confer +degrees which correspond to our Bachelor and +Doctor of Divinity. The monks live in rooms in +quadrangles, and have separate messing clubs, +but meet for general worship in the cathedral. +If their code is strictly observed, which I very +much doubt, prayers and tedious religious observances +must take up nearly their whole day. +But the Lamas are adept casuists, and generally +manage to evade the most irksome laws of their +scriptures.</p> + +<p>Soon after our arrival in Lhasa we had occasion +to visit Depung, which is probably the largest +monastery in the world. It stands in a natural +amphitheatre in the hillside two miles from the +city, a huge collection of temples and monastic +buildings, larger, and certainly more imposing, +than most towns in Tibet.</p> + +<p>The University was founded in 1414, during the +reign of the first Grand Lama of the Reformed +Church. It is divided into four colleges, and contains +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_281">[Pg 281]</a></span> +nearly 8,000 monks, amongst whom there +is a large Mongolian community. The fourth +Grand Lama, a Mongolian, is buried within the +precincts. The fifth and greatest Dalai Lama, +who built the Potala and was the first to combine +the temporal and spiritual power, was an Abbot +of Depung. The reigning Dalai Lama visits +Depung annually, and a palace in the university +is reserved for his use. The Abbot, of course, is +a man of very great political influence.</p> + +<p>All these facts I have collected to show that the +monks have some reason to be proud of their +monastery as the first in Tibet. One may forgive +them a little pride in its historic distinctions. +Even in our own alma mater we meet the best +of men who seem to gather importance from old +traditions and association with a long roll of distinguished +names. What, then, can we expect of +this Tibetan community, the most conservative +in a country that has prided itself for centuries +on its bigotry and isolation—men who are ignorant +of science, literature, history, politics, everything, +in fact, except their own narrow priestcraft and +confused metaphysics? We call the Tibetan +'impossible.' His whole education teaches him +to be so, and the more educated he is the more +'impossible' he becomes.</p> + +<p>Imagine, then, the consternation at Depung +when a body of armed men rode up to the monastery +and demanded supplies. We had refrained +from entering the monasteries of Lhasa and its +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_282">[Pg 282]</a></span> +neighbourhood at the request of the Abbots and +Shapés, but only on condition that the monks +should bring in supplies, which were to be paid +for at a liberal rate. The Abbots failed to keep +their promise, supplies were not forthcoming, and +it became necessary to resort to strong measures. +An officer was sent to the gate with an escort of +three men and a letter saying that if the provisions +were not handed over within an hour we would +break into the monastery and take them, if necessary, +by force. The messengers were met by a +crowd of excited Lamas, who refused to accept +the letter, waved them away, and rolled stones +towards them menacingly, as an intimation that +they were prepared to fight. As the messengers +rode away the tocsin was heard, warning the +villagers, women and children, who were gathered +outside with market produce, to depart.</p> + +<p>General Macdonald with a strong force of +British and native troops drew up within 1,300 +yards of the monastery, guns were trained on +Depung, the infantry were deployed, and we +waited the expiration of the period of grace +intimated in the letter. An hour passed by, and +it seemed as if military operations were inevitable, +when groups of monks came out with a white +flag, carrying baskets of eggs and a complimentary +scarf.</p> + +<p>Even in the face of this military display they +began to temporize. They bowed and chattered +and protested in their usual futile manner, and +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_283">[Pg 283]</a></span> +condescended so far as to say they would talk +the matter over if we retired at once, and send +the supplies to our camp the next day, if they +came to a satisfactory decision. The Lamas are +trained to wrangle and dispute and defer and +vacillate.<a id="FNanchor_21_21"></a><a href="#Footnote_21_21" class="fnanchor">[21]</a> They seem to think that speech was +made only to evade conclusions. The curt ultimatum +was repeated, and the deputation was +removed gently by two impassive sepoys, still +chattering like a flock of magpies.</p> + +<p>In the meanwhile we sat and waited and smoked +our pipes, and wondered if there were going to be +another Guru. It seemed the most difficult thing +in the world to save these poor fools from the +effects of their obstinate folly. The time-limit +had nearly expired, the two batteries were advanced +300 yards, the gunners took their sights +again, and trained the 10-pounders on the very +centre of the monastery.</p> + +<p>There were only five minutes more, and we were +stirred, according to our natures, by pity or +exasperation or the swift primitive instinct for +the dramatic, which sweeps away the humanities, +and leaves one to the conflict of elemental passions.</p> + +<p>At last a thin line of red-robed monks was seen +to issue from the gate and descend the hill, each +carrying a bag of supplies. The crisis was over, +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_284">[Pg 284]</a></span> +and we were spared the necessity of inflicting a +cruel punishment. I waited to see the procession, +a group of sullen ecclesiastics, who had never +bowed or submitted to external influence in their +lives, carrying on their backs their unwilling contribution +to the support of the first foreign army +that had ever intruded on their seclusion. It +must have been the most humiliating day in the +history of Depung.</p> + +<p>It must be admitted that it was not a moment +when the monks looked their best. Yet I could +not help comparing their appearance with that +of the simple honest-looking peasantry. Many of +them looked sottish and degraded; other faces +showed cruelty and cunning; their brows were +contracted as if by perpetual scheming; some +were almost simian in appearance, and looked +as if they could not harbour a thought that was +not animal or sensual. They waddled in their +walk, and their right arms, exposed from the +shoulder, looked soft and flabby, as if they had +never done an honest day's work in their life.</p> + +<p>One man had the face of an inquisitor—round, +beady eyes, puffed cheeks, and thin, tightly-shut +mouth.</p> + +<p>How they hated us! If one of us fell into their +hands secretly, I have no doubt they would rack +him limb from limb, or cut him into small pieces +with a knife.</p> + +<p>The Depung incident shows how difficult it was +to make any headway with the Tibetans without +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_285">[Pg 285]</a></span> +recourse to arms. We were present in the city +to insist on compliance with our demands. But +an amicable settlement seemed hopeless, and we +could not stay in Lhasa indefinitely. What if +these monks were to say, 'You may stay here +if you like. We will not molest you, but we +refuse to accept your terms'? We could only +retire or train our guns on the Potala. Retreat +was, of course, impossible.</p> +</div> + +<div class="chapter" id="chapter_15"> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_286">[Pg 286]</a></span></p> +<h2><a id="CHAPTER_XV"></a><span>CHAPTER XV</span> + +<small>THE SETTLEMENT</small></h2> + +<p><span class="smcap">The</span> political deadlock continued until within a +week of the signing of the treaty.</p> + +<p>For a long time no responsible delegates were +forthcoming. The Shapés, who were weak men +and tools of the fugitive Dalai Lama, protested +that any treaty they might make with us would +result in their disgrace. If, on the other hand, +they made no treaty, and we were compelled to +occupy the Potala, or take some other step offensive +to the hierarchy, their ruin would be equally +certain. Ruin, in fact, faced them in any case.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<a id="fp286-1"></a><a href="images/fp286-1.jpg"> +<img src="images/fp286-1s.jpg" alt="" title="" /></a> +<span class="caption"><br />The Ta Lama.</span> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<a id="fp286-2"></a><a href="images/fp286-2.jpg"> +<img src="images/fp286-2s.jpg" alt="" title="" /></a> +<span class="caption"><br />Soldier of the Amban's Escort.</span> +</div> + +<p>The highest officials in Tibet visited Colonel +Younghusband, expressed their eagerness to see +differences amicably settled, and, when asked to +arrange the simplest matter, said they were afraid +to take on themselves the responsibility. And +this was not merely astute evasiveness. It was +really a fact that there was no one in Lhasa who +dared commit himself by an action or assurance +of any kind.</p> + +<p>Yet there existed some kind of irresponsible +disorganized machine of administration which +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_287">[Pg 287]</a></span> +sometimes arrived at a decision about matters +of the moment. The National Assembly was +sufficiently of one mind to depose and imprison +the Ta Lama, the ecclesiastical member of Council. +His disgrace was due to his failure to persuade +us to return to Gyantse.</p> + +<p>The National Assembly held long sessions daily, +and after more than a week of discussion they +began to realize that there was at least one aim +that was common to them all—that the English +should be induced to leave Lhasa. They then +appointed accredited delegates, whose decisions, +they said, would be entirely binding on the +Dalai Lama, should he come back. The Dalai +Lama had left his seal with Te Rinpoche, the +acting regent, but with no authority to use it.</p> + +<p>The terms of the treaty were disclosed to the +Amban, who communicated them to the Tsong-du. +The Tsong-du submitted the draft of their +reply to the Amban before it was presented to +Colonel Younghusband. The first reply of the +Assembly to our demands ought to be preserved +as a historic epitome of national character. The +indemnity, they said, ought to be paid by us, +and not by them. We had invaded their territory, +and spoiled their monasteries and lands, +and should bear the cost. The question of +trade marts they were obstinately opposed to; +but, provided we carried out the other terms +of the treaty to their satisfaction, they would +consider the advisability of conceding us a +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_288">[Pg 288]</a></span> +market at Rinchengong, a mile and a half beyond +the present one at Yatung. They would not be +prepared, however, to make this concession unless +we undertook to pay for what we purchased on +the spot, to respect their women, and to refrain +from looting. Road-making they could not allow, +as the blasting and upheaval of soil offended +their gods and brought trouble on the neighbourhood. +The telegraph-wire was against their +customs, and objectionable on religious grounds. +With regard to foreign relations, they had never +had any dealings with an outside race, and they +intended to preserve this policy so long as they +were not compelled to seek protection from +another Power.</p> + +<p>The tone of the reply indicates the attitude of +the Tibetans. Obstinacy could go no further. +The document, however, was not forwarded +officially to the Commissioner, but returned to +the Assembly by the Amban as too impertinent +for transmission. The Amban explained to +Colonel Younghusband that the Tibetans regarded +the negociations in the light of a huckster's +bargain. They did not realize that we +were in a position to enforce terms, and that +our demands were unconditional, but thought +that by opening negociations in an unconciliatory +manner, and asking for more than they +expected, they might be able to effect a compromise +and escape the full exaction of the +penalty. +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_289">[Pg 289]</a></span></p> + +<p>The first concession on the part of the Tibetans +was the release of the two Lachung men, natives +of Sikkim and British subjects, who had been +captured and beaten at Tashilunpo in July, 1903, +while the Commission was waiting at Khamba +Jong. Their liberation was one of the terms of +the treaty. Colonel Younghusband made the +release the occasion of an impressive durbar, in +which he addressed a solemn warning to the +Tibetans on the sanctity of the British subject. +The imprisonment of the two men from Sikkim, +he said, was the most serious offence of which the +Tibetans had been guilty. It was largely on that +account that the Indian Government had decided +to advance to Gyantse. The prisoners were +brought straight from the dungeon to the audience-hall. +They had been incarcerated in a dark +underground cell for more than a year, and they +knew nothing of the arrival of the English in +Lhasa until the morning when Colonel Younghusband +told them they were free by the command +of the King-Emperor. I shall never forget +the scene—the bewilderment and delight of the +prisoners, their drawn, blanched features, and the +sullen acquiescence of the Tibetans, who learnt +for the first time the meaning of the old Roman +boast, 'Civis Romanus sum.'</p> + +<p>On August 20 Colonel Younghusband received +through the Amban the second reply to our +demands. The tone of the delegates was still +impossible, though slightly modified and more +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_290">[Pg 290]</a></span> +reasonable. Several durbars followed, but they +did not advance the negociations. Instead of +discussing matters vital to the settlement, the +Tibetan representatives would arrive with all the +formalities and ceremonial of durbar to beg us +not to cut grass in a particular field, or to request +the return of the empty grain-bags to the monasteries. +The Amban said that he had met with +nothing but shuffling from the 'barbarians' +during his term of office. They were 'dark and +cunning adepts at prevarication, children in the +conduct of affairs.'</p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<a id="fp290"></a><a href="images/fp290.jpg"> +<img src="images/fp290s.jpg" alt="" title="" /></a> +<span class="caption"><br />Colonel Younghusband and the Amban at the Races.</span> +</div> + +<p>The counsellors, however, began to show signs +of wavering. They were evidently eager to come +to terms, though they still hoped to reduce our +demands, and tried to persuade the Commissioner +to agree to conditions proposed by themselves.</p> + +<p>Throughout this rather trying time our social +relations with the Tibetans were of a thoroughly +friendly character. The Shapés and one or two +of the leading monks attended race-meetings and +gymkanas, put their money on the totalizator, +and seemed to enjoy their day out. When their +ponies ran in the visitors' race, the members of +Council temporarily forgot their stiffness, waddled +to the rails to see the finish, and were genuinely +excited. They were entertained at lunch and tea +by Colonel Younghusband, and were invited to a +Tibetan theatrical performance given in the courtyard +of the Lhalu house, which became the headquarters +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_291">[Pg 291]</a></span> +of the mission. On these occasions they +were genial and friendly, and appreciated our +hospitality.</p> + +<p>The humbler folk apparently bore us no vindictiveness, +and showed no signs of resenting our +presence in the city. Merchants and storekeepers +profited by the exaggerated prices we paid for +everything we bought. Trade in Lhasa was never +brisker. The poor were never so liberally treated. +One day a merry crowd of them were collected +on the plain outside the city, and largess was +distributed to more than 11,000. Every babe +in arms within a day's march of Lhasa was +brought to the spot, and received its dole of a +tanka (5d.).</p> + +<p>I think the Tibetans were genuinely impressed +with our humanity during this time, and when, +on the eve of our departure, the benign and venerable +Te Rinpoche held his hands over General +Macdonald in benediction, and solemnly blessed +him for his clemency and moderation in sparing +the monasteries and people, no one doubted his +thankfulness was sincere. The golden Buddha +he presented to the General was the highest pledge +of esteem a Buddhist priest could bestow.</p> + +<p>When, on September 1, the Tibetans, after +nearly a month's palaver, had accepted only two +of the terms of the treaty,<a id="FNanchor_22_22"></a><a href="#Footnote_22_22" class="fnanchor">[22]</a> Colonel Younghusband +decided that the time had come for a guarded +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_292">[Pg 292]</a></span> +ultimatum. He told the delegates that, if the +terms were not accepted in full within a week, +he would consult General Macdonald as to what +measures it would be necessary to take to enforce +compliance. Their submission was complete, and +immediate.</p> + +<p>Colonel Younghusband had achieved a diplomatic +triumph of the highest order. If the ultimatum +had been given three weeks, or even a fortnight, +earlier, I believe the Tibetans would have +resisted. When we reached Lhasa on August 3, +the Nepalese Resident said that 10,000 armed +monks had been ready to oppose us if we had +decided to quarter ourselves inside the city, and +they had only dispersed when the Shapés who +rode out to meet us at Toilung returned with +assurances that we were going to camp outside. +At one time it seemed impossible to make any +progress with negociations without further recourse +to arms. But patience and diplomacy +conquered. We had shown the Tibetans we +could reach Lhasa and yet respect their religion, +and left an impression that our strength was +tempered with humanity.</p> + +<p>The treaty was signed in the Potala on August 7, +in the Dalai Lama's throne-room. The Tibetan +signatories were the acting regent, who affixed +the seal of the Dalai Lama; the four Shapés; +the Abbots of the three great monasteries, Depung, +Sera, and Gaden; and a representative of the +National Assembly. The Amban was not empowered +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_293">[Pg 293]</a></span> +to sign, as he awaited 'formal sanction' +from Peking. Lest the treaty should be afterwards +disavowed through a revolution in Government, +the signatories included representatives of +every organ of administration in Lhasa.</p> + +<p>On the afternoon of the 7th our troops lined the +causeway on the west front of the Potala. Towards +the summit the rough and broken road became an +ascent of slippery steps, where one had to walk +crabwise to prevent falling, and plant one's feet +on the crevices of the age-worn flagstones, where +grass and dock-leaves gave one a securer foothold. +Then through the gateway and along a maze of +slippery passages, dark as Tartarus, but illumined +dimly by flickering butter lamps held by aged +monks, impassive and inscrutable. In the audience-chamber +Colonel Younghusband, General +Macdonald, and the Chinese Amban sat beneath +the throne of the Dalai Lama. On either side of +them were the British Political Officer and Tibetan +signatories. In another corner were the Tongsa +Penlop of Bhutan and his lusty big-boned men, +and the dapper little Nepalese Resident, wreathed +in smiles. British officers sat round forming a +circle. Behind them stood groups of Tommies, +Sikhs, Gurkhas, and Pathans. In the centre the +treaty, a voluminous scroll, was laid on a table, +the cloth of which was a Union Jack.</p> + +<p>When the terms had been read in Tibetan, the +signatories stepped forward and attached their +seals to the three parallel columns written in +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_294">[Pg 294]</a></span> +English, Tibetan, and Chinese. They showed no +trace of sullenness and displeasure. The regent +smiled as he added his name.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<a id="fp294"></a><a href="images/fp294.jpg"> +<img src="images/fp294s.jpg" alt="" title="" /></a> +<span class="caption"><br />The Tsarung Shapé and the Sechung Shapé leaving Lhalu House after the Durbar.</span> +</div> + +<p>After the signing Colonel Younghusband +addressed the Tibetans:</p> + +<p>'The convention has been signed. We are now +at peace, and the misunderstandings of the past +are over. The bases have been laid for mutual +good relations in the future.</p> + +<p>'In the convention the British Government +have been careful to avoid interfering in the +smallest degree with your religion. They have +annexed no part of your territory, have made no +attempt to interfere in your internal affairs, and +have fully recognised the continued suzerainty +of the Chinese Government. They have merely +sought to insure—</p> + +<p>'1. That you shall abide by the treaty made +by the Amban in 1890.</p> + +<p>'2. That trade relations between India and +Tibet, which are no less advantageous to you +than to us, should be established as they have +been with every other part of the Chinese Empire, +and with every other country in the world except +Tibet.</p> + +<p>'3. That British representatives should be +treated with respect in future.</p> + +<p>'4. That you should not depart from your +traditional policy in regard to political relations +with other countries.</p> + +<p>'The treaty which has now been made I promise +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_295">[Pg 295]</a></span> +you on behalf of the British Government we +will rigidly observe, but I also warn you that we +will as rigidly enforce it. Any infringement of it +will be severely punished in the end, and any +obstruction of trade, any disrespect or injury to +British subjects, will be noticed and reparation +exacted.</p> + +<p>'We treat you well when you come to India. +We do not take a single rupee in Customs duties +from your merchants. We allow any of you to +travel and reside wherever you will in India. +We preserve the ancient buildings of the Buddhist +faith, and we expect that when we come to Tibet +we shall be treated with no less consideration and +respect than we show you in India.</p> + +<p>'You have found us bad enemies when you +have not observed your treaty obligations and +shown disrespect to the British Raj. You will +find us equally good friends if you keep the treaty +and show us civility.</p> + +<p>'I hope that the peace which has at this moment +been established between us will last for ever, and +that we may never again be forced to treat you +as enemies.</p> + +<p>'As the first token of peace I will ask General +Macdonald to release all prisoners of war. I +expect that you on your part will set at liberty +all those who have been imprisoned on account +of dealings with us.'</p> + +<p>At the conclusion of the speech, which was +interpreted to the Tibetans sentence by sentence, +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_296">[Pg 296]</a></span> +and again in Chinese, the Shapés expressed their +intention to observe the treaty faithfully.<a id="FNanchor_23_23"></a><a href="#Footnote_23_23" class="fnanchor">[23]</a></p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_297">[Pg 297]</a></span></p> + +<p>The next day in durbar a scene was enacted +which reminded one of a play before the curtain +falls, when the characters are called on the stage +and apprised of their changed fortunes, and +everything ends happily. Among the mutual +pledges and concessions and evidences of goodwill +that followed we secured the release of the political +captives who had been imprisoned on account of +assistance rendered British subjects. An old man +and his son were brought into the hall looking +utterly bowed and broken. The old man's chains +had been removed from his limbs that morning +for the first time in twenty years, and he came in +blinking at the unaccustomed light like a blind +man miraculously restored to sight. He had been +the steward of the Phalla estate near Dongste; +his offence was hospitality shown to Sarat Chandra +Das in 1884. An old monk of Sera was released +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_298">[Pg 298]</a></span> +next. He was so weak that he had to be supported +into the room. His offence was that he had been +the teacher of Kawa Guchi, the Japanese traveller +who visited Lhasa in the disguise of a Chinese +pilgrim. We who looked on these sad relics of +humanity felt that their restitution to liberty +was in itself sufficient to justify our advance to +Lhasa.</p> + +<div class="figcenter"> +<a id="fp298"></a><a href="images/fp298.jpg"> +<img src="images/fp298s.jpg" alt="" title="" /></a> +<span class="caption"><br />Tibetan Drama played in the Courtyard of Lhalu House.</span> +</div> + +<p>On August 14 the Amban posted in the streets +of Lhasa a proclamation that the Dalai Lama was +deposed by the authority of the Chinese Emperor, +owing to the desertion of his trust at a national +crisis. Temporal power was vested in the hands +of the National Assembly and the regent, while +the spiritual power was transferred to Panchen +Rinpoche, the Grand Lama of Tashilunpo, who +is venerated by Buddhists as the incarnation of +Amitabha, and held as sacred as the Dalai Lama +himself. The Tashe Lama, as he is called in +Europe, has always been more accessible than +the Dalai Lama. It was to the Tashe Lama that +Warren Hastings despatched the missions of +Bogle and Turner, and the intimate friendship +that grew up between George Bogle and the +reigning incarnation is perhaps the only instance +of such a tie existing between an Englishman +and a Tibetan. The officials of the Tsang province, +where the Tashe Lama resides, are not so bigoted +as the Lhasa oligarchy. It was a minister of the +Tashe Lama who invited Sarat Chandra Das to +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_299">[Pg 299]</a></span> +Shigatze, learnt the Roman characters from him, +and sat for hours listening to his talk about +languages and scientific developments. The exile +of this man, and the execution of the Abbot of +Dongste, who was drowned in the Tsangpo, +for hospitality shown to the Bengali explorer, are +the most recent marks of the difference in attitude +between the Lhasans and the people of Tsang.</p> + +<p>The present incarnation has not shown himself +bitterly anti-foreign. During the operations in +Tibet he remained as neutral and inactive as +safety permitted, and it is not impossible that the +hope of Mr. Ular may be realized, and an Anglophile +Buddhist Pope established at Shigatze. +Herein lies a possible simplification of the Tibetan +problem, which has already lost some of its +complexity by the flight of the Dalai Lama to +Urga.</p> + +<p>In estimating the practical results of the Tibet +Expedition, we should not attach too much +importance to the exact observance of the terms +of the treaty. Trade marts and roads, and telegraph-wires, +and open communications are important +issues, but they were never our main +objective. What was really necessary was to +make the Tibetans understand that they could +not afford to trifle with us. The existence of a +truculent race on our borders who imagined that +they were beyond the reach of our displeasure +was a source of great political danger. We went +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_300">[Pg 300]</a></span> +to Tibet to revolutionize the whole policy of the +Lhasa oligarchy towards the Indian Government.</p> + +<p>The practical results of the mission are these: +The removal of a ruler who threatened our security +and prestige on the North-East frontier by overtures +to a foreign Power; the demonstration to +the Tibetans that this Power is unable to support +them in their policy of defiance to Great Britain, +and that their capital is not inaccessible to British +troops.</p> + +<p>We have been to Lhasa once, and if necessary +we can go there again. The knowledge of this is +the most effectual leverage we could have in +removing future obstruction. In dealing with +people like the Tibetans, the only sure basis of +respect is fear. They have flouted us for nearly +twenty years because they have not believed in +our power to punish their defiance. Out of this +contempt grew the Russian menace, to remove +which was the real object of the Tibet Expedition. +Have we removed it? Our verdict on the +success or failure of Lord Curzon's Tibetan policy +should, I think, depend on the answer to this +question.</p> + +<p>There can be no doubt that the despatch of +British troops to Lhasa has shown the Tibetans +that Russia is a broken reed, her agents utterly +unreliable, and her friendship nothing but a +hollow pretence. The British expedition has +not only frustrated her designs in Tibet: it has +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_301">[Pg 301]</a></span> +made clear to the whole of Central Asia the +insincerity of her pose as the Protector of the +Buddhist Church.</p> + +<p>But the Tibetans are not an impressionable +people. Their conduct after the campaign of +1888 shows us that they forget easily. To make +the results of the recent expedition permanent, +Lord Curzon's original policy should be carried +out in full, and a Resident with troops left in Lhasa. +It will be objected that this forward policy is too +fraught with possibilities of political trouble, and +too costly to be worth the end in view. But +half-measures are generally more expensive and +more dangerous in the long-run than a bold policy +consistently carried out.</p> + +<p>We have left a trade agent at Gyantse with an +escort of fifty men, as well as four or five companies +at Chumbi and Phari Jong, at distances of +100 and 130 miles. But no vigilance at Gyantse +can keep the Indian Government informed of +Russian or Chinese intrigue in Lhasa. Lhasa is +Tibet, and there alone can we watch the ever-shifting +pantomime of Tibetan politics and the +manœuvres of foreign Powers. If we are not +to lose the ground we have gained, the foreign +relations of Tibet must stand under British +surveillance.</p> + +<p>But putting aside the question of vigilance, our +prestige requires that there should be a British +Resident in Lhasa. That we have left an officer +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_302">[Pg 302]</a></span> +at Gyantse, and none at Lhasa, will be interpreted +by the Tibetans as a sign of weakness.</p> + +<p>Then, again, diplomatic relations with Tibet can +only continue a farce while we are ignorant of the +political situation in Lhasa. Influences in the +capital grow and decay with remarkable rapidity. +The Lamas are adepts in intrigue. When we left +Lhasa, the best-informed of our political officers +could not hazard a guess as to what party would +be in power in a month's time, whether the +Dalai Lama would come back, or in what manner +his deposition would affect our future relations +with the country. We only knew that our +departure from Lhasa was likely to be the signal +for a conflict of political factions that would +involve a state of confusion. The Dalai Lama +still commanded the loyalty of a large body of +monks. Sera Monastery was known to support +him, while Gaden, though it contained a party +who favoured the deposed Shata Shapé, numbered +many adherents to his cause. The only political +figure who had no following or influence of any +kind was the unfortunate Amban.<a id="FNanchor_24_24"></a><a href="#Footnote_24_24" class="fnanchor">[24]</a> Whatever +party gains the upper hand, the position of the +Chinese Amban is not enviable.</p> + +<p>At the moment of writing China has not signed +the treaty; she may do so yet, but her signature +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_303">[Pg 303]</a></span> +is not of vital importance. The Tibetans will +decide for themselves whether it is safe to provoke +our hostility. If they decide to defy us, then of +course trouble may arise from their refusing to +recognise the treaty of 1904 on the pretext that +it was not signed by the Amban.</p> + +<p>It will be remembered that after the campaign +of 1888 the convention we drew up in Calcutta was +signed by China, and afterwards repudiated by +Tibet. For many years the Tibetans have ignored +China's suzerainty, and refused to be bound by +a convention drawn up by her in their behalf; but +now the plea of suzerainty is convenient, they may +use it as a pretext to escape their new obligations.</p> + +<p>It is even possible that the Amban advised the +Tibetan delegates in Lhasa to agree to any terms +we asked, if they wanted to be rid of us, as any +treaty we might make with them would be invalid +without the acquiescence of China. Thus the +'vicious circle' revolves, and a more admirable +political device from the Chino-Tibetan point of +view cannot be conceived.</p> + +<p>But the permanence of the new conditions in +Tibet does not depend on China. If the Tibetans +think they are still able to flout us, they will do +so, and one pretext will serve as well as another. +But if they have learnt that our displeasure is +dangerous they will take care not to provoke it +again.</p> + +<p>The success or failure of the recent expedition +depends on the impression we have left on the +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_304">[Pg 304]</a></span> +Tibetans. If that impression is to be lasting, we +must see that our interests are well guarded in +Lhasa, or in a few months we may lose the ground +we gained, with what cost and danger to ourselves +only those who took part in the expedition can +understand.</p> +</div> + +<p class="center"><br /><br /><br />THE END<br /><br /><br /></p> + +<p class="hr15t"><small>BILLING AND SONS LIMITED, GUILDFORD.</small><br /><br /></p> + +<div class="footnotes" id="footnotes"><h2>FOOTNOTES:</h2> +<div class="footnote"><p><a id="Footnote_1_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_1_1"><span class="label">[1]</span></a> Friar Oderic of Portenone is supposed to have visited +Lhasa in 1325, but the authenticity of this record is open +to doubt.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a id="Footnote_2_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_2_2"><span class="label">[2]</span></a> When in Lhasa I sought in vain for any trace of these +buildings. The most enlightened Tibetans are ignorant, or +pretend to be so, that Christian missionaries have resided in +the city. In the cathedral, however, we found a bell with +the inscription, '<span class="smcap">TE DEUM LAUDAMUS</span>,' which is probably a relic +of the Capuchins.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a id="Footnote_3_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_3_3"><span class="label">[3]</span></a> Suspicion and jealousy of foreigners seems to have been +the guiding principle both of Tibetans and Chinese even in +the earlier history of the country. The attitude is well +illustrated by a letter written in 1774 by the Regent at +Lhasa to the Teshu Lama with reference to Bogle's mission: +'He had heard of two Fringies being arrived in the Deb +Raja's dominions, with a great retinue of servants; that the +Fringies were fond of war, and after insinuating themselves +into a country raised disturbances and made themselves +masters of it; that as no Fringies had ever been admitted +into Tibet, he advised the Lama to find some method of +sending them back, either on account of the violence of the +small-pox or on any other pretence.'</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a id="Footnote_4_4"></a><a href="#FNanchor_4_4"><span class="label">[4]</span></a> The Shata Shapé and his three colleagues were deposed +by the Dalai Lama in October, 1903.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a id="Footnote_5_5"></a><a href="#FNanchor_5_5"><span class="label">[5]</span></a> A previous mission had been received by the Czar at +Livadia in October, 1900.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a id="Footnote_6_6"></a><a href="#FNanchor_6_6"><span class="label">[6]</span></a> Their attitude was thus summed up by Captain O'Connor, +secretary to the mission: 'We cannot accept letters; we +cannot write letters; we cannot let you into our zone; we +cannot let you travel; we cannot discuss matters, because this +is not the proper place; go back to Giogong and send away +all your soldiers, and we will come to an agreement' (Tibetan +Blue-Book).</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a id="Footnote_7_7"></a><a href="#FNanchor_7_7"><span class="label">[7]</span></a> The situation was thus eloquently summarized by the +Government of India in a despatch to Mr. Brodrick, +November 5, 1903: 'It is not possible that the Tibet +Government should be allowed to ignore its treaty obligations, +thwart trade, encroach upon our territory, destroy our +boundary pillars, and refuse even to receive our communications. +Still less do we think that when an amicable conference +has been arranged for the settlement of these difficulties we +should acquiesce in our mission being boycotted by the very +persons who have been deputed to meet it, our officers +insulted, our subjects arrested and ill-used, and our authority +despised by a petty Power which only mistakes our forbearance +for weakness, and which thinks that by an attitude of +obstinate inertia it can once again compel us, as it has done +in the past, to desist from our intentions.'</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a id="Footnote_8_8"></a><a href="#FNanchor_8_8"><span class="label">[8]</span></a> Sheepskin.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a id="Footnote_9_9"></a><a href="#FNanchor_9_9"><span class="label">[9]</span></a> The only articles imported to the value of £1,000 are +cotton goods, woollen cloths, metals, chinaware, coral, indigo, +maize, silk, fur, and tobacco. +</p><p> +The only exports to the value of £1,000 are musk, ponies, +skins, wool, and yaks'-tails. +</p><p> +Appended are the returns for the years 1895-1902: +</p> + +<div class="center"> +<table class="margleft" border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="Returns for the years 1895-1902."> +<tr><td>Year.</td> +<td>Value of Articles<br /> +Imported into<br /> +Tibet.</td> +<td>Value of Articles<br /> +Exported from<br /> +Tibet.</td> +<td>Total Value of<br /> +Imports and<br /> +Exports.</td></tr> +<tr><td></td><td>Rs.</td><td>Rs.</td><td>Rs.</td></tr> +<tr><td>1895</td><td>416,218</td><td>634,086</td><td>1,050,304</td></tr> +<tr><td>1896</td><td>561,395</td><td>781,269</td><td>1,342,664</td></tr> +<tr><td>1897</td><td>674,139</td><td>820,300</td><td>1,494,436</td></tr> +<tr><td>1898</td><td>718,475</td><td>817,851</td><td>1,536,326</td></tr> +<tr><td>1899</td><td>962,637</td><td>822,760</td><td>1,785,397</td></tr> +<tr><td>1900</td><td>730,502</td><td>710,012</td><td>1,440,514</td></tr> +<tr><td>1901</td><td>734,075</td><td>783,480</td><td>1,517,555</td></tr> +<tr><td>1902</td><td>761,837</td><td>805,338</td><td>1,567,075</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p><i>Customs House Returns, Yatung.</i></p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a id="Footnote_10_10"></a><a href="#FNanchor_10_10"><span class="label">[10]</span></a> Between Gnatong and Gautsa, thirteen different species +of primulas are found. They are: <i>Primula Petiolaris</i>, +<i>P. glabra</i>, <i>P. Sapphirina</i>, <i>P. pusilia</i>, <i>P. Kingii</i>, <i>P. Elwesiana</i>, +<i>P. Capitata</i>, <i>P. Sikkimensis</i>, <i>P. Involucra</i>, <i>P. Denticulata</i>, +<i>P. Stuartii</i>, <i>P. Soldanelloides</i>, <i>P. Stirtonia</i>.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a id="Footnote_11_11"></a><a href="#FNanchor_11_11"><span class="label">[11]</span></a> The species are: <i>Rhododendron campanulatum</i>, purple +flowers; <i>R. Fulgens</i>, scarlet; <i>R. Hodgsonii</i>, rose-coloured; +<i>R. Anthopogon</i>, white; <i>R. Virgatum</i>, purple; <i>R. Nivale</i>, rose-red; +<i>R. Wightii</i>, yellow; <i>R. Falconeri</i>, cream-coloured; +<i>R. cinndbarinum</i>, brick-red ('The Gates of Tibet,' Appendix I., +J. A. H. Louis).</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a id="Footnote_12_12"></a><a href="#FNanchor_12_12"><span class="label">[12]</span></a> When Colonel Bromhead pursued a Tibetan unarmed. +Called upon to surrender, the Tibetan turned on Colonel +Bromhead, cut off his right arm, and badly mutilated the +left.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a id="Footnote_13_13"></a><a href="#FNanchor_13_13"><span class="label">[13]</span></a> The reports sent home at the time of the Hot Springs +affair were inaccurate as to the manner in which I was +wounded, and also Major Wallace Dunlop, who was the only +European anywhere near me at the time. Major Dunlop +shot his own man, but at such close quarters that the +Tibetan's sword slipped down the barrel of his rifle and cut +off two fingers of his left hand. General Macdonald and +Captain Bignell, who shot several men with their revolvers, +were standing at the corner where the wall joined the ruined +house, and did not see the attack on myself and Dunlop.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a id="Footnote_14_14"></a><a href="#FNanchor_14_14"><span class="label">[14]</span></a> Companies of Pathans and Gurkhas were left to +garrison Ralung, Nagartse, Pehte, Chaksam, and Toilung +Bridge.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a id="Footnote_15_15"></a><a href="#FNanchor_15_15"><span class="label">[15]</span></a> Waddell, 'Lamaism in Tibet,' p. 200.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a id="Footnote_16_16"></a><a href="#FNanchor_16_16"><span class="label">[16]</span></a> <i>Ibid.</i>, p. 409.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a id="Footnote_17_17"></a><a href="#FNanchor_17_17"><span class="label">[17]</span></a> The only expedition sanctioned is that which is now exploring +the little-known trade route between Gyantse and +Gartok, where a mart has been opened to us by the recent +Tibetan treaty. The party consists of Captain Ryder, R.E., +in command, Captain Wood, R.E., Lieutenant Bailey, of the +32nd Pioneers, and six picked men of the 8th Gurkhas. They +follow the main feeder of the Tsangpo nearly 500 miles, then +strike into the high lacustrine tableland of Western Tibet, +passing the great Mansarowar Lake to Gartok; thence over +the Indus watershed, and down the Sutlej Valley to Simla, +where they are expected about the end of January. The +party will be able to collect useful information about the +trade resources of the country; but the route has already +been mapped by Nain Singh, the Indian surveyor, and the +geographical results of the expedition will be small compared +with what would have been derived from the projected Tengri +Nor and Brahmaputra trips.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a id="Footnote_18_18"></a><a href="#FNanchor_18_18"><span class="label">[18]</span></a> It is interesting to compare Grueber's account with the +journal of Father Rubruquis, who travelled in Mongolia in +the thirteenth century. In 1253 he wrote of the Lamas: +</p><p> +'All their priests had their heads shaven quite over, and +they are clad in saffron-coloured garments. Being once +shaven, they lead an unmarried life from that time forward, +and they live a hundred or two of them in one cloister.... They +have with them also, whithersoever they go, a certain +string, with a hundred or two hundred nutshells thereupon, +much like our beads which we carry about with us; and they +do always mutter these words, "Om mani pectavi (om mani +padme hom)"—"God, Thou knowest," as one of them expounded +it to me; and so often do they expect a reward at +God's hands as they pronounce these words in remembrance +of God.... I made a visit to their idol temple, and found +certain priests sitting in the outward portico, and those which +I saw seemed, by their shaven beards, as if they had been our +countrymen; they wore certain ornaments upon their heads +like mitres made of paper.'</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a id="Footnote_19_19"></a><a href="#FNanchor_19_19"><span class="label">[19]</span></a> 'It may be asked how the monastic influence is brought +to bear on a Government in which three out of the four principal +Ministers (Shapé) are laymen. The fact seems to be that +lying behind the Tak Lama, the Shapés, and all the machinery +of the Tibetan Government, as we have hitherto been acquainted +with it, there is an institution called the "Tsong-du-chembo," +or "Tsong-dugze-tsom," which may reasonably +be compared with what we call a "National Assembly," or, +as the word implies, "Great Assembly." It is constituted +of the Kenpas or Abbots of the three great monasteries, +representatives from the four lings or small monasteries +actually in Lhasa city, and from all the other monasteries +in the province of U; and besides this, all the officials of the +Government are present—laymen and ecclesiastics alike—to +the number of several hundreds.'—Captain O'Connor's Diary +at Khamba Jong (Tibetan Blue-Book, 1904).</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a id="Footnote_20_20"></a><a href="#FNanchor_20_20"><span class="label">[20]</span></a> I have derived most of my information regarding the +discipline and constitution of Depung from 'Lamaism in +Tibet,' by Colonel Augustine Waddell, who accompanied the +expedition as Archæologist and Principal Medical Officer.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a id="Footnote_21_21"></a><a href="#FNanchor_21_21"><span class="label">[21]</span></a> The highest degree which is conferred on the Lamas by +their Universities is the Rabs-jam-pa (verbally overflowing +endlessly).—Waddell, 'Lamaism in Tibet.'</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a id="Footnote_22_22"></a><a href="#FNanchor_22_22"><span class="label">[22]</span></a> The liberation of the Lachung men and the destruction +of the Yatung and Gob-sorg barriers.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a id="Footnote_23_23"></a><a href="#FNanchor_23_23"><span class="label">[23]</span></a> The following is a draft of the terms as communicated +by <i>The Times</i> Correspondent at Peking. The terms have not +yet been disclosed in their final form, but I understand that +Dr. Morrison's summary contains the gist of them: +</p><p> +'1. Tibetans to re-erect boundary-stones at the Tibet +frontier. +</p><p> +'2. Tibetans to establish marts at Gyangtse, Yatung, +Gartok, and facilitate trade with India. +</p><p> +'3. Tibet to appoint a responsible official to confer with +the British officials regarding the alteration of any objectionable +features of the treaty of 1893. +</p><p> +'4. No further Customs duties to be levied upon merchandise +after the tariff shall have been agreed upon by +Great Britain and the Tibetans. +</p><p> +'5. No Customs stations to be established on the route +between the Indian frontier and the three marts mentioned +above, where officials shall be appointed to facilitate diplomatic +and commercial intercourse. +</p><p> +'6. Tibet to pay an indemnity of £500,000 in three +annual instalments, the first to be paid on January 1, 1906. +</p><p> +'7. British troops to occupy the Chumbi Valley for three +years, or until such time as the trading posts are satisfactorily +established and the indemnity liquidated in full. +</p><p> +'8. All forts between the Indian frontier on routes +traversed by merchants from the interior of Tibet to be +demolished. +</p><p> +'9. Without the consent of Great Britain no Tibetan +territory shall be sold, leased, or mortgaged to any foreign +Power whatsoever; no foreign Power whatsoever shall be +permitted to concern itself with the administration of the +government of Tibet, or any other affairs therewith connected; +no foreign Power shall be permitted to send either +official or non-official persons to Tibet—no matter in what +pursuit they may be engaged—to assist in the conduct of +Tibetan affairs; no foreign Power shall be permitted to +construct roads or railways or erect telegraphs or open mines +anywhere in Tibet. +</p><p> +'In the event of Great Britain's consenting to another +Power constructing roads or railways, opening mines, or +erecting telegraphs, Great Britain will make a full examination +on her own account for carrying out the arrangements +proposed. No real property or land containing minerals +or precious metals in Tibet shall be mortgaged, exchanged, +leased, or sold to any foreign Power. +</p><p> +'10. Of the two versions of the treaty, the English text +to be regarded as operative.' +</p><p> +The ninth clause, which precludes Russian interference and +consequent absorption, is of course the most vital article of +the treaty.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a id="Footnote_24_24"></a><a href="#FNanchor_24_24"><span class="label">[24]</span></a> The Amban or Chinese Resident in Lhasa is in the same +position as a British Resident in the Court of a protected +chief in India. Of late years, however, the Amban's +authority has been little more than nominal.</p></div> +</div> +<hr class="full" /> + +<div class="notebox"><a id="TN"></a> + +<h2>Transcriber's note:</h2> + +<p>The following corrections have been made to the text:</p> + +<p>Contents, Chapter XII: 'Kalimpang' replaced with 'Kalimpong'.</p> + +<p>Page 46: The comma after 'services' replaced with a period.</p> + +<p>Page 248: 'the of' replaced with 'of the'.</p> + +<p>Page 277: 'a' replaced with 'as'.</p> +</div> + + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg's The Unveiling of Lhasa, by Edmund Candler + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK THE UNVEILING OF LHASA *** + +***** This file should be named 33359-h.htm or 33359-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/3/3/3/5/33359/ + +Produced by StevenGibbs, Asad Razzaki and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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