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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of My Trip Around the World, by Eleonora Hunt
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: My Trip Around the World
+       August, 1895-May, 1896
+
+Author: Eleonora Hunt
+
+Release Date: July 4, 2010 [EBook #33079]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MY TRIP AROUND THE WORLD ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Asad Razzaki and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was
+produced from images generously made available by The
+Internet Archive/American Libraries.)
+
+
+
+
+
+Transcriber's Note:
+
+  Variations in spelling and hyphenation have been retained as in
+    the original.
+
+
+[Illustration: Portrait of the Author.]
+
+
+
+
+         My Trip Around the
+               World
+
+                BY
+
+           ELEONORA HUNT
+
+      AUGUST, 1895--MAY, 1896
+
+  PRIVATELY PRINTED FOR THE AUTHOR
+              CHICAGO
+               1902
+
+
+
+
+         DEDICATED TO MY
+            GRANDSONS
+
+    _John and Hunt Wentworth_
+
+
+
+
+_Introduction._
+
+
+_I must acknowledge that I hesitate to place this manuscript in print.
+It has been a struggle for me in my declining days, with impaired health
+and imperfect vision; but my desire is that my grandsons, John and Hunt
+Wentworth, to whom I dedicate this book, may glean from its leaves some
+knowledge and, perhaps, it may create a desire to take the same trip
+some day, having first gained for themselves a storehouse of knowledge
+with which they may be enabled to see the Orient and other foreign lands
+with a greater degree of appreciation. By that time, the "Problems of
+the Far East" may have been solved, and light divine will shine in the
+dark places._
+
+_If a few copies find their way into the hands of friends, those who
+know me well will have charity, as they know the difficulties I have had
+to surmount in accomplishing the work._
+
+                                                       _E. H._
+
+    _July 31, 1902._
+
+    Wm. Johnston Printing Company
+              Chicago
+
+
+
+
+_My Trip Around the World_
+
+
+                                CHICAGO, August 19, 1895.
+
+Have you ever had a desire so great that it became a controlling
+influence, and when that desire or wish was gratified and that day dream
+became a reality to feel an overwhelming sadness--a heart failure? If
+so, you can realize how on August 19, 1895, at 6:30 p. m., I left
+Chicago with a heavy heart for a voyage around the world in company with
+my brother, his wife and son, the latter just relieved from college
+life.
+
+We arrived in St. Paul in time for breakfast, the train already made
+up that was to convey us on the Canadian Pacific Railroad to Vancouver,
+B. C.
+
+Our attention was at once directed to the immense wheat fields of
+Minnesota and villages few and far between. Through the endless prairies
+of the Dakotas, with no signs of vegetation along the railway, and but
+little animal life. A few Indians visit the station on the arrival of
+trains; some to barter, others--blind or crippled--to beg. The third day
+out, at 1:30 p. m., we reached the Glaciers, where we remained
+twenty-four hours. Through Assinniboin, north of western Dakota, we had
+noticed deep furrowed trails of the buffalo crossing the road from north
+to south. Now and then, their bones were seen in white patches on the
+prairies, and at the stations tons were ready for shipment east to make
+tooth-brush handles and bone dust for soda fountains, etc. We had been
+advised to stop at the Glaciers instead of Banff, perhaps by some
+traveler who felt the inconvenience of getting up at three o'clock in
+the morning to take the train. We regretted it, however, when we were
+told that the hotel is nestled among the mountains rising over 5,000
+feet above it, all of them snow capped and far down the sides of the
+deep gorges was still seen the same white vestment. The Glacier House,
+where we spent the night, is like a Swiss chalet in architecture. To sit
+upon its piazza and gaze on the lofty mountain peaks is a sublime sight.
+To watch the sun climbing its sides, rose-tinting the snows which lie
+like a mantle over their height, is not soon forgotten; and to listen to
+the mighty roar of the foaming cataract, which tumbles over the
+precipitous foothills, one can but exclaim: Almighty One, how great are
+thy works! The path leading through the forest to the glacier is most
+picturesque, but not easily trodden. The constant fear of encountering a
+wolf or bear, together with the sight of the great mountain of ice, soon
+cools one's ardor, and we were content to retrace our steps and to
+gather after dinner around an old-fashioned stove in the exchange of the
+Inn with a score of travelers and listen to the stories of their
+adventures and have for an object lesson skins of the grizzlies but
+lately captured, which had not a soporific effect, but less terrific
+than meeting their majesties face to face.
+
+The scenery from the Glacier House to Vancouver, through the Selkirk
+Mountains is overpowering; around countless curves, over lofty trestles
+and ragged edges of fearful precipices the line of cars pursues its way.
+The stupendous heights are at times absolutely shrouded in smoke; the
+climb of twenty-seven hundred feet in thirty miles around the mountain
+shelves and through vast snow sheds (most expensive in their
+construction), to emerge again into the light for a glance down the
+gorges into the glaciers, over and above to the lofty summits, is all
+the imagination can picture, and the traveler feels like a "mighty atom"
+in the midst thereof.
+
+On the fifth day out from home we arrived in the city of Vancouver. Our
+vessel, the "Empress of Japan," lay at anchor very near the wharf, and
+after securing our cabins and seats at the table we returned to the
+Hotel Vancouver, where we remained from Saturday till Monday morning.
+Owing to a delayed train, we did not sail before midnight. We had
+forty-seven out-going missionaries, some returning from a vacation
+granted once in seven years, others were about to enter on untried
+duties. The Rev. S. F. J. Schereschewsky, wife and daughter, were among
+the number. He was a paralytic--the stroke was superinduced by a
+sunstroke in China, where he had labored heroically in a translation of
+the Bible into the Chinese language. He was taken to Paris where, under
+Charcot's care, he recovered sufficiently to return to Cambridge, Mass.,
+where his work was completed ready for publication. This he desired to
+have done in Shanghai. We were told his translation would excel all
+others that have ever been made.
+
+At 10 o'clock each day, during the voyage of fourteen days the
+missionaries would gather together for a short service in the salon,
+where admittance was free to all. The ship averaged 370 miles a day; a
+few of the passengers found the "rocking in the cradle of the deep"
+rather disagreeable, but the majority of them kept their chairs and were
+well repaid, for the air was a tonic too good to be missed. The ship was
+well disciplined, the table inviting, the service entirely
+Chinese--whose sense of decorum was most marked.
+
+On Sunday evening, the thirteenth day out, we expected to anchor at
+Yokohama, but a fearful wind arose; the captain left his seat at the
+dinner table in haste and ordered the ship's course changed. We were
+skirting a terrific typhoon. We were in sight of land, but instead of
+reaching it at seven-thirty in the evening we did not accomplish it
+until 10 o'clock Monday morning. The steamer "Belgic" was stranded that
+night forty-three miles from Yokohama. The captain, who had for forty
+years made successful trips, was destined to see his vessel wrecked; no
+lives were lost but the rebuke he received cost him the loss of his
+position--and much greater the loss of reason. He was taken to a
+madhouse.
+
+The 9th of September found us in the hands of our guide, who had been
+engaged to meet us on board the vessel on our arrival. Jinrikishas were
+in waiting, we rode to the custom house and from there to the Hotel
+Grand, along the Bund skirting the water's edge. The sun shone
+brilliantly, and all Nature seemed to bid us welcome. The hotel site is
+unequaled; the gentle sea breezes seem to follow us; Englishmen and
+Americans crowded the verandas, and apparently gave us a warm welcome.
+Long lines of jinrikishas formed a barrier between the waters of Yeddo
+Bay and the hotel, each in charge of a coolie, whose dress (if any)
+shocked us; but to this nude condition we soon became oblivious.
+
+A ride along the shore of the Mississippi Bay, and through the country
+where rice and millet grow abundantly, in a jinrikisha with a good
+natured coolie is a delight. The Bungalow of the native all exposed to
+view is a sample of neatness, while the children, most gentle with each
+other, play in numbers around the home.
+
+On this drive and but a short distance from Yokohama is the English
+concession, homes hidden almost from view by high walls and dense
+foliage. In that land of sunshine, with the cool breeze from the sea,
+the constant influx of European and American travelers, keeping one in
+touch with the world and with the simplicity of the surroundings, one
+can imagine a tranquilizing life and a happy coterie.
+
+The streets of Yokohama are narrow, the houses of one, sometimes two
+stories, all on line with the sidewalk and with apparently no privacy.
+The gutters are flushed with water, which seems to be used for all
+purposes, even to the bathing of children. The absence of horses gives
+ample room for the masses of men, women and children who throng the
+streets. No haste is manifested, save when a line of jinrikishas of
+heavily freighted coolies appear, and then with perfect good nature the
+right of way is given. No menace, no insults are heard. The perennial
+smile of women and the submission of the men is enough to conquer all
+antagonism to foreigners, if any exists. Nevertheless, a guide is
+indispensable to protect against intrusive curiosity, for wherever you
+stop, there the gaping crowd surrounds you.
+
+The shopping fever seems to manifest itself almost immediately on
+arrival at Yokohama; in fact, I heard of no epidemic so fatal to
+visitors. Your guide, who has an eye to the commission he will receive
+on all your purchases, gives you his advice as to where you shall
+buy--to his best advantage. As truthfulness is not a Japanese virtue, it
+is well to consult your fellow traveler and to use your own judgment as
+to quality. Each city of Japan seems to have its specialty; for
+instance: We found the handsomest kimonas, the finest cloisonais in
+Yokohama: the best carving in ivory in Tokio.
+
+As for a gentleman's outfit it would be advisable to go to Yokohama with
+an empty trunk, for good materials and perfect fit are guaranteed for
+marvelously low prices. There your duck suits, Pongees and silk
+underwear for the tropics are laid in with great satisfaction. The
+adaptation in imitation is most striking. A waist of a dress given the
+tailor will be so closely copied in fit and style and delivered in so
+brief a space of time that it makes you fairly sigh when you think of
+the waste of time and mistakes that our own modistes often subject us
+to, but there is no originality displayed by the Japanese.
+
+The native woman is always clothed; the unmarried, known by the style of
+hair dressing, are neat and gayly attired in their kimonas and bright
+sashes, are attractive, but the absolute negligence of the mothers is
+revolting. The hair if not in strings, is most loosely bound up; no more
+pomade and bows; their teeth blackened, and their bosoms so exposed that
+their elongated condition becomes revolting. We were told that supply of
+the human dairy never ceases while the demand exists. No sooner does one
+child let go, than another takes hold--hence the accessibility.
+
+To visit the temples is of daily occurrence. There, hundreds of natives
+are huddled together, prostrating themselves before the tinselled
+altars, leaving behind them in the space they have occupied a coin, of
+but little value, it may be, but something to denote their willingness
+to support their religion. These coins are gathered by the priests, and
+a theft is unknown.
+
+Strangers are admitted without hesitancy to the rooms where cloisonai
+and bronze are manufactured, the close quarters, the simplicity of
+utensils, the perfection of workmanship, the untiring patience is to the
+nervous American the wonder of the age.
+
+At night the streets of the city are thronged. Along and outside the
+curbstone are peddlers with their wares spread upon the ground with a
+single lamp light, around which gather the customers. The jugglers
+seated behind open lattice work perform their feats to admiring groups,
+while theatrical performances all in full blast, shut up from view from
+the street with but a slight screen, seem well patronized.
+
+Many women are sold by their parents for the payment of a debt or the
+support of their families. The government confines these characters to
+their own quarters; they are not allowed on the streets of the city. We
+turn willingly on the following day to something more elevating and
+visit Enoshina, via the Imperial Railroad. The chief object of interest
+at Kamakura, our first stopping place, is the "Dai Butsa"--"Great
+Buddha." It stands alone as the highest embodiment of Japanese art;
+height, forty-nine feet and seven inches; circumference, ninety-seven
+feet and two inches; surrounded by beautiful Camphor and Echo trees.
+This bronze image is supposed to have been erected in 1252. The temple
+built over this image was destroyed in 1494. Since then it has remained
+exposed to the elements. Within the image is a space containing a
+shrine. The eyes of Buddha are of pure gold; the silver boss on the
+forehead weighs thirty pounds--it signifies light, or wisdom. Not far
+from this image of bronze stands the temple of Kovanon, the Goddess of
+Mercy, whose image is seen indistinctly behind folding doors. It is of
+brown lacquer, gilded and is thirty feet high. We enter and
+involuntarily lay our hand upon it for the virtue that may arise from
+our act of faith.
+
+We again summon our coolies and, along the water's edge, are drawn to
+the hillside on whose summit is one of the most picturesque tea houses
+in Japan. The ascent is rather steep, but through shaded paths lined on
+either side with stands where attractive souvenirs may be purchased,
+chopsticks of fancy design, jewelry, shell ornaments, etc., etc. The
+view from the tea house overlooking the sea is most charming. There our
+guide has laid for us a tempting lunch brought from the hotel at
+Yokohama. Tea and service is offered us by most graceful Japanese
+waitresses, who have no hesitation in assisting our gentlemen change
+their clothing for the bathing suit, that they may follow them to the
+water's edge to see them sport like fish in the bright blue waters, and
+were it not for the pestiferous fleas, one might declare the excursion
+perfect.
+
+The journey to Niko by rail is most diversified, shaded for miles by the
+Cryptomeria trees. The pear tree, trellised with its luscious fruit
+somewhat like our Russet apple or a taste akin to watermelon, is seen.
+The day's journey is made all the more agreeable by the luncheon of
+quail sandwiches, fruits and hot tea, the latter made by our guide in
+our compartment. At five-thirty o'clock in the evening we arrive at the
+Hotel Niko, the weather cold and rainy, a poor table and damp,
+uninviting apartments. A brazier is at the solicitation of the guests
+placed in the drawing room. There we barter all evening with natives for
+furs of the monkey, idols of ivory and objects of interest of wood and
+bronze. The trip to Lake Chuzendi, eight miles from Niko, is made by
+chairs and jinrikishas carried and drawn by the coolies. For our party
+of four we take two chairs and three jinrikishas and seventeen
+coolies--four for each chair, two to pull and one to push the
+jinrikishas. The third jinrikisha is for our guide and hamper of
+provisions. The road zigzags in many turns up the steep sides of the
+mountain, followed by a dashing stream issuing from Lake Chuzendi, known
+as "Kenon-no-taks," which falls in beautiful cascades and seethes over
+the dizzy heights, while our sturdy pullers keep up a tremendous pace
+with a continuous cry of warning to a chance pedestrian or cart of a
+street vender, whom we meet on the narrow ledges drawn by the same
+patient coolie. Baskets hung on a pole and borne by two men often
+contain a native woman and perhaps a child; mules with panniers so large
+filled with vegetables and merchandise that you can scarcely see the
+poor animal, slowly plodding along this highway led by a woman or more
+often a small boy with a rain cloak of straw and a wide brimmed hat of
+the same material, which are so cumbersome that you look almost in vain
+for the wearer. We dismount wherever a fine view is obtainable, and
+invariably find a tea house. Attentive waitresses, clad in their bright
+kimonas, regale you with small cups of tea and cake, to say nothing of
+the peppermint candies offered for a few pennies with a low bow and
+bewitching smile. Cushions to rest upon--with invisible occupants
+(fleas), who insist upon accompanying you during the journey,
+notwithstanding your efforts to shake them off. If a bright day is
+vouchsafed the traveler the view from the summit is glorious, the tea
+house commodious; fishing with nets adroitly thrown brings in an
+abundant supply for the table. Our curiosity led us into an apartment
+where the noon meal was being prepared by a wife for her liege lord. The
+cooking was done over a few coals in a brass brazier filled with ashes.
+A steel skewer placed upright in the ashes on which was suspended a
+fish, overhanging the coals, which by frequent turnings was most
+effectually dried and apparently made a savory dish. An omelet most
+tempting and a bowl of rice was then placed upon a low table before
+which the husband sat upon his haunches and ate most leisurely, while
+the wife retired into a corner endeavoring to satisfy a hungry infant.
+The great question of the Orient is: Will the day ever come when an
+equality of sex will be acknowledged? We put the question to our
+well-educated guide, who shook his head and replied, "In America women
+rule, but in Japan the master is man." A missionary told me that they
+endeavored early to marry the converted man to the Christian woman and
+to insist that they should sit together at their meals, but it was a
+hard lesson and seldom adopted.
+
+The temples of Niko surpass all others that we saw in Japan. Broad
+avenues, well shaded, lead up to the hills upon which they were built.
+In 1617 Hidetada, the second Shogun, removed the body of his father to
+this spot. He was deified by an order of the Mikado, under a name
+signifying "The Light of the East," the great incarnation of Buddha. His
+grandson finished the temple erected in memory of his grandfather and
+was himself enshrined there. The five-story pagoda, 105 feet high, lends
+interest to this spot. The decorations of these temples are of carved
+wood in panels, painted in gorgeous coloring. Much of this carving is
+the handiwork of the celebrated "Hidare Jingoro," other work that of
+"Tunza." The group of three monkeys, blind, deaf and dumb, and the
+"sleeping cat," all have religious signification. The floors of these
+temples are covered with padded matting; in consequence, no one is
+allowed to enter without removing his shoes, or slipping a cotton
+covering over those he has on. The altars are ornamented with immense
+brass storks, with candelabra in their mouths, and tinselled lotus
+flowers with leaves of brass are much in vogue. The tombs are guarded
+with painted monsters representing gods of Wind and Thunder. The
+services are not unlike those conducted in the Catholic Church by
+continuous chanting. Pilgrims are coming and going, offering their
+prayers after first signaling the gods by ringing a bell, the rope of
+which is often made of human hair, a sacrifice made to appease the gods
+during an epidemic. Near by and in the same enclosure is the sacred
+horse, a stupid looking animal, guarded by an old woman, who for a
+trifling recompense will feed it a few beans from a small saucer.
+
+From Niko we go to Tokio, a city of magnificent distances, the home of
+the Mikado. We stop at the Imperial Hotel, the best kept in Japan.
+Temples and tombs set apart in sequestered groves, seem to be the resort
+of pleasure-seekers and pilgrims. Once the ceremonial worship is over,
+the people clap their hands to notify their god of their duties having
+been performed, and turn for rice, tea or chat. Many of the petitions
+are written on slips of paper and are left on the gratings that protect
+the idols, and those frightful guardians at the entrance are frequently
+covered with moistened balls of paper containing their written prayers.
+
+Thirty years of civilization has not changed the agricultural
+implements. The same plow that upheaved the soil one thousand years ago
+turns it now; the same punt that furrowed the waters is the same to-day;
+the style of architecture of the old Tartar order, derived from the old
+Tartar tents, with immense curving and overhanging roof, repeats itself
+in keeps and temples. Possibly this stereotype is the result of being
+for ages cut off from other nations. The ponderous bells, struck by
+great beams of wood swung from the outside, give forth mighty mysterious
+murmurings.
+
+The population of the city of Tokio is a million and a half (1895) and
+covers a territory as large as London. The castle of the Mikado, in the
+center of the city, occupies a space of several miles in circumference.
+There are three castles, and between each a moat; the inner side of each
+has a wall of sixty to ninety feet high, built of huge stones of massive
+weight. The inner castle is surrounded by beautiful wooded grounds,
+miniature lakes, streams and meadows. The public buildings and those
+occupied by government officials are of European architecture. The
+streets of the city are narrow, no sidewalks, and the one-story houses
+serve as workshop and residence for the occupant. The inhabitants go
+bareheaded, carrying umbrellas. The convenience of the river that runs
+through Tokio and the canals that intersperse its streets is very
+apparent. Public education is compulsory. Japan in its whole extent,
+with all its islands included, covers about as much territory as North
+and South Dakota combined. Although it has an immense system of
+irrigation, only one-twelfth of its soil is under cultivation, and the
+rice crop entirely dependent upon it. The population of forty million of
+people of untiring industry is rewarded by a mere living. For centuries
+the cultured class of patrons of the temples have given these people
+work, for every rich temple adds to its wealth bronzes, lacquered work,
+vestments of brocades, tapestries and carvings of images, each having
+its fire-proof building in which its treasures are kept; they are not
+seen in the temples. As for the missionary work, we visited the "Mary
+Colby Seminary," a boarding and day school in Yokohama, Miss Grafton of
+Vermont being principal. At that time there were fifty native children
+as scholars, most of them able to pay for their own tuition. It is
+impossible to calculate the strength and influence of these teachings,
+and where the schools become self-supporting they must be strongholds.
+We were told that demand for teachers was much less than the number
+waiting to be called. At Kiota we visited the "Dobisha School," a
+university started in 1875, under the auspices of the American Board of
+Missions; connected with this institution is the girls' school and
+training school for nurses; also a hospital. A warm reception by Miss
+Benton, the principal of the girls' school, from Los Angeles, Cal.,
+awaited us, and we were shown through the buildings, and were most
+astonished at the well built and commodious edifices, surrounded by well
+laid out grounds. There were not a half-dozen scholars. On inquiring why
+the accommodations were so great and the number of occupants so small,
+we were told cholera had kept many away. The few half-grown girls were
+seated around the table intent in reading a translation from Shakespeare
+of "King Lear," and others Walter Scott's "Lady of the Lake."
+
+One of the girls played upon an instrument some four feet long with two
+wire strings. Upon the third finger of her left hand she wore an ivory
+ring, and with this she would strike the ivory knots placed at intervals
+on the instrument, producing sounds not unlike a guitar. She sat upon
+the floor and seemed sullen. The teacher remarked to us that many were
+very obstinate. We saw the table prepared for their dinner--a large bowl
+of rice in the center and small bowls at each plate, with a dried fish
+upon it and a pair of chop sticks. One of the studies most enjoyed is
+the arrangement of flowers, which is really a life's study. The
+ceremonial tea is conducted with great precision and is regarded as a
+graceful accomplishment. The price of tuition was 2 yen 80 sen per
+month, caring for their own rooms and doing their own washing. It is
+under the Congregational and Presbyterian auspices, and was not in a
+flourishing condition financially. After this we visited a dancing
+school which was most interesting. The teacher, a gray-headed woman, sat
+upon the floor with a dozen or more pupils around her. In one hand she
+held a wand, in the other a fan. Each child received individual
+instruction, the scholar standing bare-footed, with her eyes fixed upon
+the instructor; in her hand an oiled paper parasol, which when swaying
+her body to and fro she handled most gracefully, while the only music
+was the old woman's voice in mournful cadence, by the rhythm of which
+her fan seemed in sympathy. With the wand she would strike her fan when
+she wished an emphatic stamping of feet.
+
+The bronze factories, open to the traveler, are well worthy of a visit.
+The mixture of gold, copper, tin and silver into these ornaments are
+regulated in price by the quantity of gold and silver used. The intaglio
+figures are overlaid with these precious metals, and the deft hand of
+cunning workmanship is perceptible in every article produced. The Rapids
+of Katsuragawa (a famous resort in the maple season) is fourteen miles
+by jinrikisha from Kiota, which takes about three hours and a half to
+accomplish. Our party of five required five jinrikishas and ten men,
+much of the road being upgrade and through tunnels. Rice fields abounded
+and the scenery wild and picturesque. A tea house at the end of the ride
+affords room for us to have our own luncheon spread, and after an hour's
+rest we take a boat, to which our jinrikishas and coolies are
+transferred. The descent of the rapids requires two hours' time. The
+pilot stands half clad at the helm, while three men with long ropes
+attached to the vessel run along the rocky shore, pulling with all their
+strength. The bed of the river is rocky. Artificial improvements have
+been made rendering the channel more navigable, but the weirdness of the
+scene is heightened by the flashes of lightning and the low,
+reverberating thunder claps that were followed by slight rain. The boat
+trembles and bends before the fury of the waters. We are assured that
+the pilot is skillful and an accident is the exception. We land at
+Arashizama and resume our jinrikisha ride to Kiota.
+
+Alternate days are spent in the shops. We find jade to be an expensive
+article. The stone is very difficult to carve, hence its value. The pale
+green in color is most desirable; a cup of cornelian red, very tiny, was
+145 yen; a small figure of a lion, beautifully carved, 175 yen. There is
+a superstition among the natives of Japan and China that anklets or
+bracelets of jade keep off the evil eye.
+
+We next visit Nara, the holy city. It is not to-day a tenth of its
+former size, as it is no longer the imperial seat of government.
+Situated at the foot of a range of mountains are beautiful groves,
+through which wind broad avenues, shaded by the cryptomeria trees.
+Temples are hid away in sequestered spots; in one of these the sacred
+rite of an ancient dance is kept up by priestesses. For a stated fee you
+can have it executed. The dress worn is of ancient type and bears the
+Wisteria crest of the Hasaga temple. These dancers wear a white,
+expressionless mask; their movements, together with the doleful music
+furnished by the priests with kotos, pipes and drums, make you feel well
+satisfied with a brief performance, the tune suggesting Watts' "Hark
+from the tombs, the doleful sound," etc. Here we meet crowds of pilgrims
+enjoying the beautiful groves with old trunks of trees covered with
+camellias, wisterias, plum and wild ivy, which are the marvels of the
+place. The great bell, thirteen feet high, containing thirty-six tons of
+copper, an image of Buddha, fifty-three feet in height, and a museum
+erected and sustained by the government are the chief attractions of
+Nara. Together with the Temple of Taconda, with its fine wood carvings
+and its beautiful little lake near by, with shoals of speckled fish
+which are fed daily for the entertainment of visitors. Our inn was
+strictly Japanese. The apartment set aside for us was partitioned into
+rooms by mosquito netting. Imagine a room sixty feet long; at intervals
+of fifteen feet were hooks, placed in the cornice, upon which were hung
+mosquito nets with teaster-tops, forming, as it were, a square chamber.
+On the floor of each, beds were made, which consisted of three or four
+comforters or futahs, immaculately clean, placed one upon the other,
+while one was rolled for our head rest. Before retiring we were asked to
+place our valuables in the hands of the proprietor for safety, which we
+did in part. Our dinner consisted of soup, chicken and potatoes,
+beefsteak and onions. The curiosity of the waitresses of the inn is
+laughable; nothing escapes their eyes; even the linings of our dress
+skirts were investigated.
+
+The founder of one of the temples is said to have ridden to this place
+in 767 on a spotted deer. Since then the animal is almost deified and is
+by some supposed to be a messenger from earth to heaven. The groves are
+full of these favorites.
+
+Osaka, the Birmingham of Japan, is built upon canals, on either side of
+which are lines of storehouses containing cotton goods, chinaware and
+wooden utensils. The castle here was occupied by a military force, and
+all admittance was denied. Kobe, two hours' ride via railroad, is the
+point of departure for us from Japan, after sailing through the Inland
+sea and stopping a few hours at Nagasaki. Kobe has an English
+concession. Club houses, banks and good hotels gives it a European
+appearance. The Japanese portion has its bazaar, crematories and
+temples. The hour for cremating is at six o'clock in the evening, and we
+visited this place in time to see three bodies already placed in the
+furnaces; two of these were in casks, as they were in a sitting
+position; that of an infant in a rude box, in such as our oranges are
+shipped, and tied with twine. The crematory was on the summit of a hill,
+at the foot of which was the cemetery, where the ashes were interred.
+The sailing of the "Empress of China" through the Inland Sea is lovely
+beyond description. The sky cloudless, temperature about 72 (Oct. 1st,
+1895); Americans and English crowded the deck. The harbor at Nagasaki is
+fine. War vessels from almost every country lie at anchor in the
+sparkling waters. The "Centurion" of the British line and the
+"Charleston," of the American, commanded by Captain Coffin, Messrs.
+Sharp and Littlefield, officers, gave us a courteous welcome. When the
+day was far spent and the last rays of the setting sun reflected its
+beautiful coloring on the waters, which glistened like diamonds in an
+emerald setting around the vessels, our own flag waved its colors and
+the soul-stirring strain, "Should Auld Acquaintance Be Forgot," aroused
+all the patriotism and tenderness in our hearts. As we waved a good-bye
+to the land of "The Rising Sun" it was with the desire that we might
+return to the scenes that had contributed so much to our enjoyment. The
+twelve guns fired from the "Centurion" in honor of the occasion seemed
+as echoes from the hills bidding us adieu with an au revoir.
+
+
+
+
+FROM JAPAN TO CHINA AND CEYLON.
+
+
+                                STEAMER EMPRESS OF JAPAN,
+                                  YELLOW SEA, October 4, 1895.
+
+Seated at the table with the first officer, who proves most loquacious
+and intelligent, we discuss the "Prince of Wales," the English rule in
+foreign lands and the works of George D. Curzon, a man of great
+expectations and great possibilities. He loaned me "Problems of the Far
+East," which I found most entertaining, clear and authentic. On my left
+are seated Dr. and Mrs. Ashmore. The former has been forty-five years in
+the missionary field in China. Mrs. Ashmore, as Mrs. Brown, was the
+founder of the "Mary Colby Seminary" at Yokohama, afterwards removing to
+China with her second husband. One of her daughters married Mr. Curtis,
+editor of a Kobe paper, the other, Mr. McCarty, a transportation
+merchant of Yokohama. Mrs. Ashmore expressed her views freely regarding
+the Dobisha school in Kiota. The great extravagance in building and in
+furnishing the university had forced it to the verge of bankruptcy. Dr.
+and Mrs. Ashmore labor under the Baptist auspices, and both feel that
+the most encouragement is offered the missionary in China rather than
+Japan. The conversion of the Chinese was far more permanent when once
+accomplished than that of the Japanese; they were more truthful and with
+less varnish. We have on board Isabella Bird Bishop, gray-haired and
+with mild blue eyes, rather below the average height of woman. She
+writes so much in favor of Japan that the freedom of the hotels is
+offered her. After the third day of smooth sailing we anchor in the
+Yang-tse-kiang, as one writer says, "a stream of lofty dignity of
+conscious might." Broken short ridges of mountains are seen from a
+distance, with valleys and plains interspersed. The great plain lying on
+the sea coast is alluvial, made so by the deposit of the Hoang-Ho and
+the Yang-tse-kiang (Broad River) combined. The former river often bursts
+its confines, causing great destruction to life and property. The mouth
+of the Yang-tse-kiang to-day is far removed from where it was many years
+ago. The Hoang-Ho is for the greater part of the year unnavigable, owing
+to floods during the summer months, the disasters being so great it is
+sometimes called the "Chinese sorrow." Fish abound and is the flesh food
+of the average Chinaman, although pork is his delight. The mode of
+fishing is varied; often men and boys dive for them, but the more
+entertaining method is by the cormorant. A dozen or more of these
+trained birds are perched on a bamboo pole across the bow of a boat, but
+before diving, a cord is placed around their throat to prevent them
+from swallowing their prey, and they rarely fail to bring up one or
+more fish. Their eagerness for success is most noticeable, and they are
+rewarded after having satisfied their owner, by being given some of the
+small fry. Our steamer anchored fifteen miles off of Shanghai, and our
+heavily freighted tender was two hours reaching land. The harbor was
+filled with bright colored sailing vessels, junks and sampans,
+stern-wheel kickaway and chop boats; also the bateaux of the "Tanka"
+girls who work the ferries. The form of the natural eye painted on these
+vessels is most apparent; the reason for so doing is, the Chinese will
+reply, "No eye, no see."
+
+We at once contrast the well-built and improved bund which skirts the
+water's edge with the less pretentious Japanese ports. It is not until
+we enter the Chinese quarters, with its low dwellings and apparent
+squalor, that we realize what the English concessions are to the
+traveler. The dress of the Chinese is refreshing to the eye after our
+sojourn in Japan, where among the coolies little was left to the
+imagination.
+
+The drive to the "Bubbling-Well," a square enclosure of stone some eight
+feet in dimension, reveals a spring of water whose surface was green
+with slime, from which issued two clear streams of pure crystal fluid.
+Well-dressed, painted Chinese women, guarded by eunuchs, drive in
+landaus along this fashionable drive, which leads to club houses and
+well laid out grounds. The tiny feet of the women as they peep out from
+under the richly embroidered gowns assured us that navigation to them on
+foot was almost impossible. This process of deformity is begun about the
+sixth year of their lives and rarely fully accomplished before the
+seventeenth. The suffering is said to be intense. Government has in many
+provinces interfered, and as civilization advances it is to be hoped
+this cruelty will be abolished. A missionary told me, in appealing to
+the Chinese, "to desist from this vain and sinful habit, they would at
+once retaliate by replying, 'Why do American or European women deform
+their waists?'" The rough, uncultivated fields attached to the homes
+along the drives we are told are burial places of their dead. Mere
+hillocks of earth, so scant as to allow the caskets to be seen plainly,
+and oftimes skeletons protrude. Do you wonder that epidemics prevail?
+The warning is constantly given the travelers to keep away from native
+quarters, but curiosity leads us into temptation. Warehouses,
+manufactories, shops, theaters, dwellings and temples are crowded
+together; the streets offensive and disgusting. The shops for silks in
+the English concession are most fascinating. Beauty of coloring and
+quality, with most unique designs, are offered at such low prices that
+one must have great control over herself to resist buying in quantities.
+The better class of Chinese are most elaborately gowned in these gold
+embroidered textures--far more costly than the simple embroidered
+kimonas of the Japanese. The absence of jewelry in the latter makes the
+love of it with the Chinese most conspicuous. Anklets, imitation of jade
+and silver bangles are always in evidence.
+
+Jugglers throng the piazzas of the hotel, and for a trifling
+compensation will swallow a sword three feet long which he flaunts
+before our eyes and which disappears to all appearances down his throat
+with great strangling; this we do not ask him to repeat.
+
+A charming sail of three days brought us into the harbor of Hongkong.
+The city is built on the mountainside; a narrow strip along the water's
+edge is laid out in a fine driveway, warehouses, hotels and club houses
+facing the water. The dwellings, with beautiful gardens attached, are
+built upon the terraces of the mountains, which can only be reached in
+sedan chairs, borne by coolies. The botanical gardens are most
+attractive and are within walking distance of the hotel. Alongside of
+these gardens is the St. John's Cathedral, in Gothic style of
+architecture. The clock tower is a conspicuous building from which all
+local distances are measured. On the summit of the mountain overlooking
+the city is Victoria Gap. An inclined railway, worked by means of cable
+to an elevation of fourteen hundred feet, leads to it. It cost the city
+140,000 Mexican dollars, and pays about five per cent on the investment.
+The round trip is fifty cents. The views are grand in extent, but it
+requires considerable nerve to face the apparent danger. However, we
+find ourselves on the summit in an incredibly brief space of time. The
+ten square miles of harbor is spread out before you with its myriads of
+vessels and floating hospitals. The enjoyment of this scene quite repays
+one for the undertaking. Queen's road (the principal street of Hongkong)
+runs parallel with the water; from this street, running toward the
+mountain, the grade is uphill. We ascend stone steps, twenty to thirty
+in number, to reach the street beyond; consequently we do not frequent
+them often. Flowers are in profusion for sale and most artistically
+arranged. The drive to the "Happy Valley," the burial place of the
+European, Parsees and Mahometans, each within their own walls, is indeed
+aptly named. We were preceded by two sedan chairs borne by four coolies,
+each dressed in red kilted skirts and white turbans. The occupants were
+two small boys, eight and ten years of age, with their amia, or nurses,
+who bore quantities of lovely flowers. On alighting we followed them to
+two freshly made graves; from these the boys removed decayed flowers and
+placed most lavishly those they had brought with them. It was a touching
+sight. We imagined the parents had been the victims of a scourge that
+was still hovering over the city. It is a trying climate. The American
+consul, Mr. Hunt, from Tennessee, called upon us, and we returned the
+visit at his home, nestled among the palm trees and alongside the
+botanical gardens. His family were feeling the effect of their
+protracted sojourn here and yearned for a change.
+
+The distance from Hongkong to Canton is ninety-five miles by the river.
+We were somewhat surprised to find the captain of our vessel from
+Prairie du Chien, Wis., whose family was still residing there. It is
+said that a population of 300,000 people live in boats upon these waters
+and have no other home. With the baby on her back the mother swings the
+heavy scull, while the other children act as ducks in the water, some
+being tethered to the vessel, apparently without any sense of danger. At
+the slightest indication that one of these boats are needed, fifty or
+more will rush to the spot, clambering in loud voices for their rights;
+while the wonder is that the baby's head does not roll off of its
+shoulders. The mother is seemingly indifferent as to its existence.
+Along the shores of the river are rice fields and orchards, interspersed
+with pagodas, which from a distance look like hanging gardens. Chance
+wind bears sand and seed to these overhanging roofs, and shrubs and
+flowers grow and bloom. Whampun and Homan, two lofty pagodas, made
+famous by their age and height, are seen from the steamer, and an
+occasional dead body of a Chinaman floats by us. As we near the landing
+of Canton small boats filled with lepers come alongside soliciting alms.
+They are most pitiful in appearance and, judging from the coins thrown
+them, it is the only means of their maintenance.
+
+Guides are in waiting at the steamer's wharf, and we only feel safe when
+protected by them. Six chairs with four men each, made up our van. Mr.
+Wilder, of Honolulu, had joined us. These coolies groan as they trot
+along. With the thermometer about 80 and no clothing save the loin
+cloth, they stop only long enough to change the pole from one shoulder
+to the other, which are lacerated and in great welts. If it were not for
+the novel sights that meet the eye the sympathy aroused would be too
+trying for the traveler. Canton is called the "City of Rams," or the
+"City of the Genii." These names are derived from the supposed visit of
+fire-protecting spirits that came from heaven two thousand years ago. It
+is the chief trading city of southern China. Foreigners first visited
+here in the eighth century. In 1568 the Portuguese were in China, and in
+1615 the Tartars invaded it. We passed through what is known as the
+Tartar town; it was neater and cleaner than the other quarters. Later
+the East India Company took possession and for a century and a half
+controlled the foreign trade. The British invaded the city of Canton in
+1841 and took possession, but the ransom of six million was made for its
+redemption. Again in 1857 the allied forces of British and French
+captured it, and for nearly four years it was in the hands of
+foreigners, its government being administered by a joint commission. It
+has now its European concession. Canton is a typical Chinese city, the
+contracted streets, not exceeding six feet in width except in spaces
+where some official residence or temple is built. It is with great
+difficulty we make any headway through these narrow lanes, and are often
+compelled to leave our chairs and with our guide pursue our way on foot.
+If by chance a shop is entered a gaping crowd so surrounds you that you
+are not only in danger of being robbed, but of losing your guide. The
+foreign quarters are separated from the mainland by a stream of water
+connected by two bridges. A wall encircles the native quarter and the
+gates are closed at night and guarded; the discharge of firecrackers in
+the early morning announce their opening, and from the river boats
+another discharge, almost deafening, which is supposed to keen them from
+the "evil one" through the day.
+
+The Temples of Confucius, Buddha and Shinto religions are much alike in
+their construction. One of the most famous of these is that of the five
+hundred Genii, founded in five hundred, the year of our Lord, and was
+rebuilt forty years ago. In the midst of these immortal five hundred
+images is that of "Marco Polo," who visited here in the twelfth century.
+The Temple of Horrors, whose tableaux in brass and wood represent the
+punishments meted out to those in Buddha's purgatory, boiling the
+culprit in oil, or grinding him in a mill, or still worse, to place him
+in an upright position between two planks of wood and then sawing him in
+pieces--all these pleasant reminders are heightened by the
+reincarnation against the will of a man's soul into that of a wild
+beast, destined to another life here on earth, which is too realistic to
+dwell upon.
+
+The Examination Hall, where all males from eighteen to eighty years of
+age may compete for honors, is well worth a visit. Stalls are built for
+12,000 students, in which are placed a table and chair. Once the man is
+seated there is no release for three days. A strict watch is kept to
+prevent any communication; even if a death occurs a hole must be knocked
+in the surrounding wall to transport the body, for under no
+circumstances are the gates opened during the trial. A subject for an
+essay is given, and each applicant is forced to render an example of his
+ability. Less than two score of these receive degrees, and from this
+examination they go to a higher court in Pekin and there high honors
+await them in official positions. No caste is observed. The water clock,
+built five hundred years ago, is composed of three copper vessels placed
+on top of each other with an indicator in the lower one. The passing of
+time is indicated by the raising of the water in this lower one, into
+which trickles the same fluid from those above. The prisons seemed
+crowded; the inmates were chained to stones or bars of iron, all
+apparently in one large hall, separated from the spectators by upright
+bars of iron. When we approached they made a rush toward us as well as
+their heavily burdened limbs would allow, and begged for money with
+which their freedom could be bought. The yoke some wore was most
+torturing. I could think only of Dante's inferno. The execution grounds
+was a most grewsome place, about twenty-five feet long and ten or twelve
+feet wide, used daily for drying and storing pottery. The prisoner was
+made to kneel, bowing his head, while the executioner's ax did the work.
+We saw a head which had been decapitated before our arrival. From the
+wall of Canton we could see mountainsides, which seemed to be one vast
+number of graves, whose entrance were in the form of a horseshoe. In the
+city is a building they call the "Old Man's Paradise." It is kept up by
+the wealthy class. The remains of the male dead can be left here for
+five years, incased in a huge lacquered wood coffin, costing $1,500.
+Under it is placed plates of lime to prevent white ants from destroying
+the wood. Before the coffin is a drop curtain to shield it from the gaze
+of the passer by, in front of which is an altar decked with tinselled
+flowers; beside this is an empty chair, around which are grouped wooden
+images supposed to be the servants of the departed master waiting his
+return, with rice and tea prepared and placed near by. A couch for a
+servant who guarded the body was occupied each night. The place was
+rather attractive than otherwise. We lunched upon the walls of Canton in
+a deserted building, but old with memories. We visited some shops where
+the crepe, for which the manufactory is noted, can be found in almost
+all colors, some beautifully embroidered, for moderate prices. The
+markets are disgusting with the skinned rats and bloody fish which are
+offered for sale, and a few days' sojourn amidst such surroundings
+satisfies the traveler.
+
+On our return to Hongkong (the port from which we sailed) the sight of
+the French steamer "Melbourne," which was to bear us on our journey, was
+an agreeable vision, although on that line of steamers little is done
+for the pleasure of the passengers. We took on at Saigon the Governor of
+Siberia, his wife and secretary; also the Siberian Minister to China,
+with his wife, with many Russians. The ladies of the party were
+handsome, and often regaled us with their beautiful voices. A Japanese
+colonel, who had by his feats of bravery made himself famous, sat at my
+right at the table, and it was with great interest I listened to him
+telling of his trip on horseback from Russia on the Trans-Siberian line
+to China, which took seventeen months to accomplish, with the use of
+three horses. The extreme cold of Siberia, 45 degrees below zero, with
+those sluggish people, made the days he spent with them most memorable.
+He averaged twenty-five miles a day, traveling through grand forests,
+and, as daylight continued till midnight, he was enabled to travel much
+at night during the summer months. He was in the employ of the Japanese
+government. We afterward met him at Cairo. Two days out from Hongkong
+(Oct. 19, 1895) we skirted the Island of Hainan, which is separated from
+the mainland of China by the Gulf of Tonquin, and passing the Empire of
+Anan we enter the St. James River, eight degrees north of the
+equator--Far. 83. The river in width is about forty rods, the banks of
+which on either side are covered with dense jungles. The mango and
+banana tree were strangely intermingled with vines covered with flowers,
+while groups of monkeys keep up a perpetual chatter and bright plumed
+parrots were seen at every turn, to say nothing of the wild boar that
+were hid among the jungles. The low thatched huts along the shore,
+surrounded by the waving palm tree, looked rather attractive at a
+distance. The dress of the Coachin-Chinamen consists of long, loose
+flowing trousers, with a black or white robe falling from the shoulders,
+and a red or white turban on their heads. The heat at Saigon in October
+was oppressive, and we were advised to keep aboard the vessel till late
+in the evening. Our ride to the botanical gardens over smooth roads of
+red clay in the jinrikisha, with a bright turbaned coolie, was most
+picturesque amid the perfection of tropical growth of plants and trees.
+Convoys of storks, plumed golden pheasants, the Coachin China chickens,
+cages of monkeys, leopards and bears all amuse and entertain the
+traveler. Saigon is a French concession and has at least 100,000
+inhabitants. Late in the afternoon the Governor General of Coachin China
+boarded the vessel with his son. Citizens in their white duck suits and
+pith helmets and soldiers escorted him to the steamer in their bright
+uniforms with great ceremony to bid him bon voyage to France to
+negotiate a loan in behalf of a projected railroad. The governor wore
+the decoration of the Legion of Honor and was most dignified in his
+bearing.
+
+A smooth sea and fair breeze made the next two days and a half fairly
+enjoyable, but the heat was overpowering at times; the nights were spent
+by many on deck, where the firmament could be enjoyed, as the Southern
+Cross was seen in its great beauty. Singapore, the next stopping place,
+afforded us a fine drive in a chariot through the country. These
+vehicles seat comfortably four persons, a charioteer, who drove, and an
+outrider seated behind. Their turkey-red calico sacques, with a white
+cheese cloth skirt and high red turban, gave them a showy appearance,
+while the diminutive animal which drew us in the most submissive fashion
+plodded his way over the well-rolled roads of red clay. The tropical
+growth of trees and shrubbery almost hid from view the bungalows of the
+better class of people. These buildings were one story in height,
+surrounded by wide verandas, the roofs of which were thatched with huge
+palm leaves, while the bamboo split in two formed excellent gutters to
+convey the water to the ground. Dates hung in profusion upon the trees
+alongside of the road, and bananas half as long as your arm were offered
+you, the taste of which is very unlike ours. The palm and rubber trees
+grow like the forest trees in our own land. The red and white arbiscus,
+running wild over trees and house, with the ox-eyed daisy, almost as
+large as the sunflower, and the marigold, which is the flower that the
+Indian idolater uses in his worship, grows in profusion here. The
+abundant moisture from frequent showers, followed by a blazing sunshine,
+produces that tropical luxuriance for which this portion of the Orient
+is celebrated. To sit upon the steamer's deck at early dawn one sees
+close to the horizon in the north the Pole Star, in the south a few
+degrees higher the constellation of the southern cross is in full view,
+while on land the scene of the greatest activity is at this hour. The
+rude cart, drawn by cream-colored, humped-back, reversed-horn cattle,
+driven by a coal-black Tamil in a bright red turban and perhaps a loin
+cloth, lends interest to the picture, and the superb shoulders of the
+natives are well exhibited, as they unload from barges drawn close to
+the steamer's side huge sacks of coal, which they heave to one another
+till they reach the hold of the vessel. This is performed mostly by
+women with a weird chant of "heave ho" that seems to render the task
+less irksome.
+
+Singapore was purchased by the British. It is the greatest tin producing
+country in the world. Sago is grown in quantities and shipped to every
+port; it is the pith of the tree trunk. Here the gum of the rubber tree
+is gathered and dried in chunks, placed in gunny bags and sent to all
+quarters of the globe in the crude state. The rattan, which is
+elaborately woven by the natives into chairs and other useful pieces of
+furniture, is light in weight and capable of great endurance. The tree
+grows like a palm to a great height, throwing above ground long tendrils
+extending a half mile. These are cut in lengths of thirty feet, soaked,
+scraped and ready for use. The indigo bush is cut and dried, then
+boiled, the sediment forming the dry substance exported. Tea is also
+cultivated successfully. Mangoes, yellow as pumpkins, in shape of pears,
+with disagreeable flavor, but most in favor with the natives, as well as
+the children of adoption, are the Dorean fruits, with custard-like
+contents, offensive to the smell, but agreeable to the taste. The
+business portion of the city is substantially built, but we were told
+that the use of opium, like the Upas tree, casts a blight on this fair
+country and its inhabitants. We invited a missionary to dine on the
+steamer with us. He conducted a boys' school of 600 pupils. The building
+cost $20,000, built by local contributions of the English and Chinese.
+They practice the Salvation Army methods in gathering audiences for
+Bible instruction, and those who accepted Christianity closely adhered
+to their vows.
+
+We now enter the straits of Malacca, as smooth as a river, but clouds
+and showers render the atmosphere low and depressing. We meet on the
+steamer those who have spent years in this climate. A lady from Holland
+told me that it was so exhausting that life was almost unendurable. She
+spoke of the Queen of Holland, the young "Wilhelmina," and of her
+mother, the Dowager Queen Emma, now acting as regent. She was the second
+wife of King William of Holland, and had this only daughter. He had
+three sons by his first wife, all deceased. This present widow was a
+German princess, and at this time (1895) was thirty-four years old and
+her daughter fifteen. It was very evident from the conversation of this
+Holland lady that Germans were in disrepute with her people--the Holland
+Dutch. From the straits we run into the Indian Ocean, "with a wet sheet
+and a flowing sea, and a wind that follows fast." To forget the swell I
+take up a sensational novel, "The Old Love and the New," but that
+influence is not enough to drive away mal de mer, that soon gets the
+better of the passengers and drives us to our cabins. Four days of
+sailing brings us to Ceylon's shores, where we fail to catch the spicy
+breezes of which we have so often sung. We are on deck early to realize
+the descriptions given of the southern coast of this island, then turn
+northward and round into the harbor of Colombo. The hotels and
+government buildings are located along the quay. The forest of cocoanut
+palms and the lofty peaks of the mountain form an impressive background.
+Ceylon is two-thirds as large as Ireland and is in possession of the
+English. Some English writer has said "that in the train of England's
+conquests comes the broadest, wisest and most tolerant statesmanship the
+world has ever witnessed. To be humbled by her is to be exalted by
+her." There seemed a good feeling between the natives and their rulers.
+The Oriental Hotel swarms with people of all nations. Breakfast is
+served in your room, consisting of coffee, toast, fruit and sweets.
+Luncheon is a hasty meal, but dinner to the foreigner, served at 7 or 8
+p. m., seems thoroughly enjoyable. The Englishman, dressed in black
+trousers, broad sash-belts of black or red silk, which seems to make
+more pronounced the smooth shirt bosom, with a spotless white
+pea-jacket, forms a refreshing costume. Ladies almost invariably are in
+low-neck black dresses, with a broad piece of white lace which droops
+gracefully as a bertha, with bright flowers in their hair, while a band
+of stringed instruments makes the scene enlivening. The broad arcade
+from which you enter the dining hall is after dinner filled to
+overflowing with guests seated around small tables, where brandy and
+coffee is served, and is the harvest time of the tradesmen, who are
+allowed to spread before you their embroideries, laces, jewels and
+baskets of curious workmanship and bright colors, together with
+elephants of ebony and ivory. Close to the entrance of the hotel are
+jugglers with their baskets of cobras, whose poisonous fangs have been
+extracted; together with the dwarfed trees which miraculously grow
+before your eyes, and divers tricks are performed to entertain the
+stranger and to earn for themselves a scant livelihood. The Singhalese
+and Tamil women, men and children, whose features seemed carved in
+ebony, are of the Aryan race--so different from the Mongol Malay race.
+It is amusing when riding to be followed by the native children crying
+"No papa, no mamma, no rice." And when these claims are recognized they
+laugh immoderately and wait for other persons to attack with the same
+pathetic appeal. A drive to the Cinnamon garden, in the midst of which
+is a fine museum with a rare collection of sea urchins; these fasten
+themselves to a rock, in which with their black, stiff, cigar-shaped
+feelers they dig a cell, resembling machine work so accurate are they in
+their measurement to fit their bodies. Here we are shown the original
+tooth of Buddha, which looks more like a small tusk of an elephant. This
+is placed under a glass cover; the sea-horse suckling its young, the
+myriads of birds, besides every wild beast of the forest are finely
+preserved. The bungalows of more wealthy inhabitants are built along
+these beautiful drives, and are almost concealed by the dense foliage,
+and must necessarily be damp, as the sun's rays can scarcely enter. We
+are offered neatly bound bunches of camphor wood and cinnamon by
+children on the road, but which have little aroma left. The men are
+athletic in appearance, erect and graceful, hair black and curly. The
+Singhalese wear a circular shell comb to confine their glossy curls. The
+men are semi-clad; the women wear low-neck corset covers with an ample
+strip of cloth that is pinned around the body for a skirt, which shows
+the ankles with their silver anklets, while the black neck and arms are
+adorned with gilt beads and bangles, the nose and lobes of the ear being
+pierced and fairly weighed down with jeweled rings. The deformity is
+appalling among the lower class; their only compensation is that the
+stranger never passes them by without bestowing some gift, denoting
+their sympathy. We are in Ceylon in the tail end of a monsoon (October
+30). Such sheets of water, deluging alike streets and people, are
+scarcely heeded--so soon do the sun's rays dry up the roads. We take a
+cart drawn by two bullocks, goaded by a small boy, who sits on the yoke
+and so close to the animals that one can scarcely detect his mode of
+thrusting a sharp steel instrument into the body to make them move, but
+this is his great incentive, as he easily could outwalk them; it is the
+novelty that attracts, not the speed. We are landed close by the market,
+where all fish, fowl and vegetables are sold. We purchase a bunch of
+Betel leaves, neatly piled one upon the other. The nut of the same bush
+is cut into small pieces, mixed with a teaspoonful of slackened lime,
+and a little tobacco or more often opium. This mixture laid upon a leaf
+is rolled and we are asked to try it. We give that pleasure to our small
+boy or guide. One of these leaves will be material enough for two or
+three hours' pleasure, and the coolie is seldom seen without this
+delectable morsel in his mouth. He seldom expectorates but seems to
+swallow the fluid, which is like red ink in color; the habit is most
+disgusting, but assuages hunger.
+
+We frequently see on the children's naked body a cord around the loins.
+The placing of this is a religious ceremony, with a religious
+signification. The drive along the beach is grand, and the roads smooth.
+The crowds of English and Australians taking their evening outing,
+cheered by the music of the military band and stimulated by the dashing
+of the breakers on the sea-girt shore add to the pleasure. If you are
+walking you are waylaid at every step by some drummer who represents his
+own or the shop of some one whose jewels are displayed in the greatest
+profusion. Sapphires, diamonds, rubies and pearls and other stones are
+shown the customer until the eye fairly wearies of the sparkle. If you
+decide not to purchase them but to call again, woe be to you if you do
+not keep your word, as you are followed and the cry of "Lady, come back,
+you promised!" becomes a trifle wearisome.
+
+To visit Kandy, situated eighteen hundred feet above the sea, in the
+mountains of the interior of Ceylon, we take passage on a railroad of
+marvelous engineering. To quote a traveler's words may give you some
+idea of the beauty of the views obtained: "As one skirts the flanks of
+the mountains and looks down into an enormous gorge, its sides clad with
+the most beautiful and varied foliage of flowers and trees, and on the
+level bottom lands can be seen cascades, which are formed by the
+artificial lakes that overflow the exquisitely delicate green of the
+young rice." Our attention is directed to the Tollipot tree, which
+flourishes for sixty years, and blooms just before it dies. The bloom is
+at the top of the tree and reminded me of huge bunches of pampas grass.
+The distance from Colombo to Kandy is seventy-eight miles. Roundabout
+this region live the tea planters with their families. Kandy is a
+resort, during the summer season, for the inhabitants of the lowlands,
+and is built on the shore of a charming little lake, its banks shaded by
+the Tamarind and royal palms. The vine-clad bungalows add to its
+attractiveness. Within sight of the hotel is the Malagawa Buddhist
+temple, the most sacred of the shrines of Buddhism. We are again shown
+an actual tooth of the Deity, two and one-half inches long and one inch
+wide.
+
+On the evening of our arrival a great festival was held at the temple.
+The procession was headed by eight standard bearers, dressed in full
+white skirts, followed by eight more in red costumes. Their waists were
+uncovered. They bore aloft flaming torches, followed by the most
+fantastically dressed musicians beating drums and dancing in a frantic
+manner. Close behind these were the "Devil dancers," four in number,
+whose skirts of gay-colored silks were elaborately studded with jewels
+and turbans to match. These skirts were so full that when making their
+convolutions they looked like inflated balloons. The contortions of
+their bodies were painful to witness, and as the reflection from the
+torches lit up their faces one could but feel they were aptly named.
+Three elephants walked abreast, most gorgeously apparelled, and moved
+with a dignity most surprising. They wore jewelled masks, their bodies
+enveloped with jewelled mantles, while on the back of the center animal
+rested a gilded cage, in which, in a pagoda-shaped vessel, was the
+sacred tooth. Following the elephants were more drummers, more Devil
+dancers and other elephants, whose huge tusks were incased in gold. Each
+animal was closely guarded by his keeper, while riders sat astride in
+the most gorgeous-colored skirts and turbans. The chief man of the
+temple, representative of the old Kandy kings, rivaled Falstaff in his
+appearance. He wore a full white skirt, a large white hat, with a white
+mantle or cape thrown over his shoulders. His dignified tread was akin
+to that of Jumbo, and was greeted by all along the procession. We were
+told he was the banker of the village. During the August festival the
+procession is much more impressive, as three hundred elephants are in
+line. The festivities ended by a feast at the temple. Along each side of
+the entrance the poor of the village sat with their empty vessels, which
+were to be filled by those in authority. Buddha was most conspicuous on
+the altar of the temple, carved woods and ivories surrounding the image,
+where later a dance was performed; but we were too unholy to be
+permitted to remain and witness it. A description of the Paradeniza
+gardens would be like attempting to picture to one's imagination the
+Garden of Eden. The two hundred and fifty varieties of palms, the
+bamboo, one hundred feet high and growing in clumps one hundred and
+fifty feet in circumference, give some idea of the tropical growth. We
+see spicy cinnamon, the chinchona, the upas tree, the latter bearing to
+a great height its lofty head, not unlike a palm in growth, with its
+bark gray and spotted like a snake. It is not indigenous to the soil,
+but comes from Java, where its dense groves are called the "Valley and
+Shadow of Death," and when I stood under its shade without knowing the
+tree, I will confess a superstitious fear came over me when I was told
+by our frightened guide that I was in danger. The candle tree produces a
+fruit shaped like a candle, but not edible. The traveler's palm gives
+the thirsty traveler a refreshing drink when an incision in the stem of
+its leaves is made. Cocaine grows in profusion, while alongside, coffee
+and tea plants and nutmegs and other spices grow apace. The Jacqueminot
+and La France roses grow to the size of saucers, while the orchids
+fasten themselves like grape vines over wooden props, beautiful and
+varied in color, and are native to the jungles, brought therefrom and
+sold by coolies to the traveler for a pittance. The governor's palace is
+beautifully located. From its windows we gaze upon a beautiful river,
+while the grounds are watered from the spray of fountains. The palace
+was unoccupied and we were permitted to go through its spacious rooms
+and halls. The drives all about Kandy are fascinating, and are made more
+so by now and then a temple hid almost from sight, but of interest when
+visited, while the industrious weaver of straw mats, a yard and a half
+in length and a yard wide, meets us along the way, urging us to buy--a
+temptation we cannot resist, although we wonder what we shall do with
+them when we get them. But adieux must be made to Ceylon, with its spicy
+breezes, for the "Steamer Pekin" lies at anchor off Colombo which is to
+bear us over 1,300 miles to Calcutta, the voyage only broken by a short
+stay at Madras, where a brief visit is long enough, for the heat and
+dust are oppressive. We see the juggernaut car lying in disuse on the
+roadside under a temporary covering of a palm thatched roof. A most
+cumbersome vehicle, the wheels of which are so closely set together that
+one can imagine the poor victims over whose body it rolls, could easily
+be reduced to powder. Government interferes in its further usage, save
+in territories not easily managed. The official buildings are European,
+but the homes of the natives are of burnt clay, with no windows--a
+small open door reveals its inmates stretched out sleeping, almost
+devoured by flies. The filth of the quarter makes it uninviting; the
+botanical garden is hardly worth the ride there. We take the only small
+vessel in use to carry us back to the steamer awaiting us in this
+beautiful Bay of Bengal. The governor's house is lofty in appearance,
+the exterior dingy from dust and dirt, but we are told the household
+appointments are magnificent, the decorations partly in the oriental and
+some of them in European style; servants by the score, hundreds of
+coolies who do nothing but keep the Punkas (swinging fans) in motion in
+every part of the building by day and night. The natives of Madras are
+quite dark in color, with straight hair and regular features, diminutive
+in stature, slender forms, with small hands and feet, and have a pensive
+look and manner. The deformity among the beggars is revolting, and we
+fear to alight from our chariot, lest we may come in contact with these
+poor, unfortunate beings. We learn that the wheels of government move
+slowly in these oriental countries. If an audience with the governor is
+desired, a book is given you in which the name of the solicitor is
+registered. At the end of two weeks the governor gives notice that he
+will give a public breakfast at the palace, and those who have
+registered their names will be received and their requests will be
+heard. Time seems not to be considered of any import.
+
+The calm waters of the Bay of Bengal, with its southern breezes, makes
+the journey pleasant, as the traveler seeks his extended chair on deck
+of the steamer, protected from the scorching sun by its broad awnings.
+On entrance to the Hoogly River, a native pilot comes aboard--for here
+the ever-moving sands render navigation uncertain and perilous--until
+the dangerous sand bars of the James and Mary rivers are passed; every
+sailor must be at his post as the steamer wends its way through the
+treacherous channel, and each passenger silently congratulates himself
+when he is assured the Rubicon is past. The bottom of these rivers is a
+vast quicksand. The vessel entering must await the tide. The banks are
+low and sandy. Straw thatched huts, shaded by clusters of date palms,
+gave a picturesque appearance to the shores, and the tropical growth
+grew richer and more dense as we approached Calcutta. The excitement on
+arrival of the steamer is intense; custom house officers present
+themselves: all baggage is ordered from the cabins on deck, even to the
+smallest hand-bag; search is made for fire arms: strict laws regarding
+them are enforced, and if you are unfortunate enough to have one in your
+possession, as was one of our party, you are quickly relieved of it, and
+only by paying as much as the original price, with much red tape, are
+you enabled to regain it.
+
+
+
+
+INDIA.
+
+
+India, in 1892, had a population of 300,000,000. The area of the land on
+which they live is equal to the United States, east of the Rocky
+Mountains of Colorado. Much of it is uncultivated; other lands yield
+crops under irrigation. The soil in places has become exhausted by use
+without manure. Between monsoons (that is, periods of no rainfall),
+these regions cease to produce and there is a scarcity.
+
+Regions cultivated by irrigation are enhanced in value, for the products
+bring better prices, but when rivers and tanks dry up from which water
+for irrigation is drawn, then scarcity becomes a famine, where the rain
+has failed. There are two annual crops in India; the former inferior
+grade is used for home consumption, the other for export. Of the army,
+seventy thousand strong, forty per cent are incapacitated by diseases.
+Civil servants are superannuated at fifty-five years of age and are sent
+home on a pension, seldom enjoying life longer than two years afterward.
+
+Seven per cent native males read and write; only one per cent native
+females can read or write. The different castes will not intermarry and
+will not touch each other's food.
+
+Calcutta is a city of 500,000 inhabitants, of these, 14,000 are
+Europeans.
+
+The streets of the English concession are broad and well laid out. Fine
+hotel buildings, banks and storehouses line the main thoroughfare. The
+hotels have broad verandas extending from the second floor, over the
+sidewalk, affording a cool resting place for the guests, and would be
+most acceptable were it not for the myriads of insects that cover you.
+The protection these porches afford at night to the natives who, wrapped
+in their cotton blankets, lie closely huddled together along the
+sidewalk, while scarcely leaving room enough for a pathway for the
+pedestrian serve to exempt them (the natives) from the dews of the
+night. The palace of the viceroy, centrally located, is surrounded by
+beautiful grounds, with magnificent shade trees. It is built upon the
+grand esplanade, three miles in length, and skirts the water's edge.
+From the hours of 5:00 till 8:00 p. m. this grand avenue presents a
+lively appearance, for all the elite of Calcutta seems gathered there.
+Handsome victorias drawn by beautiful horses, coachmen and footmen, with
+their bright turbans and oriental dress, lends enchantment to the view
+and reminded one of the display Aladdin made when he went to claim his
+bride. In the Garden of Eden, near by, a band of forty native musicians,
+well trained, discourse sweet music--the latest European airs. During
+the performances all vehicles must remain in one position, thus
+affording the scores of flower venders opportunity to move noiselessly
+roundabout the carriages, offering the beautiful orchids, camellias and
+roses, for a small pittance, to the occupants. To say nothing of toy
+monkeys, which one cannot resist buying. The European residence quarters
+lie along this beautiful, sun-baked road. The houses are large and well
+built, with the luxuriant surroundings of tropical growth that almost
+hide the homes from view. On every veranda is the tea table, with its
+urn or samovar; all English observe the hour of 4:00 o'clock to serve
+the necessary stimulant at home and abroad. The city is supplied with
+water from the Hoogly River, gathered into large reservoirs, and
+filtered. The Esplanade is sprinkled by the native coolie, who, from his
+well-filled goatskin, moves gracefully in a surpentine fashion over its
+well rolled surface; while the streets in the business portion are
+watered from carts managed by women. A visit to the crematory at the
+early dawn--the hour set apart for burning their dead--is interesting,
+but horrible, to witness. A building of 100 feet is located upon the
+bank of the river. At intervals of ten feet on its earthen floor are
+trenches, dug the length of a body; they do not exceed two feet in
+depth, if that. In this excavation is placed some clean straw and sandal
+wood with myrrh and sweet perfumes. Upon this is laid, first crosswise
+and then lengthwise, sticks of cordwood, and a fresh bed of straw, upon
+which the body is laid. The body of an aged woman was brought in for
+cremation while we stood there. It was wrapped in white cheese cloth and
+rested on the bed upon which she died, which is their custom to burn. It
+is the length of the body, made of rope interlaced; at each end are two
+small wooden legs which support the wooden sides and are, in height,
+like the old-fashioned trundle bed. The winding sheet was removed, the
+body anointed with oil and rubbed with saffron powder. The face, which
+was most emaciated and betrayed great suffering, was completely
+besmeared with this mixture. The body was then placed face downwards on
+the pile. Being somewhat longer than the bed prepared for it, the limb
+from the knee was bent towards the body. The cracking of the dry bones
+was most grewsome. The body had a fresh wrap of cheese cloth thrown over
+it, the face having her caste designated by lines of ashes on her
+forehead, made by a priest, and sticks of cordwood were placed crosswise
+and then lengthwise so close together that the entire body was
+concealed. A pitcher of water from the sacred Hoogly River, nearby, was
+brought and thrown over the pile. Then the nearest relative of the
+deceased ran violently around the body seven times, crying in a loud
+voice to the gods that another soul was awaiting reincarnation, while a
+wild-eyed, maniacal-looking priest took up a huge bunch of straw and
+made the circuit seven times, giving vent to the most uncanny wail, when
+the son or husband of the dead touched the burning torch to the straw
+underneath; soon all was ablaze. The mourners, a few women, withdrew,
+and a man, whose office it is, stood near by, and as the arms or legs or
+pieces of burning wood fell, would replace them with a pitch fork.
+Scores of bodies were brought in that morning, but seeing two cremations
+was all we needed to make an indelible impression not easily eradicated.
+It requires about two hours to reduce the body to ashes, or a granulated
+substance, when it is gathered and thrown into the holy river, and the
+excavation is made clean for another body.
+
+The Ghats or sacred steps leading down to the waters of the Hoogly are
+in the same vicinity. Throngs of bathing pilgrims, of both sexes, were
+gathered for their morning ablutions. After wading out nearly waist
+deep, they would place their hands reverently together, and apparently
+after a prayer with great earnestness, dip themselves three times into
+the water, and those who had flowers (the marigold seemed the favorite),
+as they prayed would cast them upon the waters one by one, then scour
+their feet, rinse their mouth and wash their garment, filling a brass
+vessel which hung to their side with the holy water, and proceed to the
+well situated under a Boho tree at the head of a Ghat, when they would
+sprinkle the diminutive gods that were placed there. Priests stood in
+readiness with paint and ashes and made upon their foreheads the mark of
+their caste, for which they received a compensation. At a time during
+the eclipse of the moon, 100,000 pilgrims often find their way to this
+holy water. It seems as if half their lives are spent in making these
+pilgrimages in these eastern countries, and if they die far from the
+holy stream, they are cremated and their ashes sent to some priest,
+whose office is to make the consecration before sprinkling them on the
+sacred rivers.
+
+We turn from this scene, not wishing to obliterate the memory, but to
+forget for awhile in other and perhaps no less disgusting scenes in the
+native quarters. We are warned to make our visits few, for contagious
+diseases lurk in these narrow streets and among these filthy people.
+
+We enter narrow lanes, in these quarters, flanked on either side by
+tumbled-down houses. We are in pursuit of pearls. Strange surroundings
+for such beautiful gems. We are led into a narrow hall and up a long
+flight of steps of stone, so worn by the tread of time that we could
+scarcely keep our foothold. We reach a chamber fronting on a court. The
+floors are covered with padded matting over which were sheets spread.
+Kneeling, or rather squatting on these were natives busily employed
+sorting pearls. Before each were piles of different sizes. The wonderful
+dexterity displayed by these coolies in separating the large, medium and
+smaller seed pearls from each other in parcels, by or through the sense
+of touch of the index finger, seemed to convey to their minds weight and
+size.
+
+A table or counter was in one end of this room, behind which were seated
+dignified patriarchal looking dealers, and evidently owners of the
+establishment. We were shown diamonds of such weight and brilliancy that
+fairly bewildered us and dazzled our eyes. Emeralds, sapphires, and
+pearls of different colors (black, pink and white), the former of such
+size that we almost doubted their genuineness. Evidently we were in a
+wholesale department, for while there, there came in foreign buyers
+collecting many of these precious stones. Prices were fixed. The dealers
+were in touch with the world's market, and values ruled accordingly;
+there seemed no chance to barter. Our address is taken when we decline
+to purchase, which means that we will be followed to the hotel by a
+native who will there unfold the wonders of India's product again to
+us--specimens even more tempting than those shown in the shops. Our lack
+of confidence in ourselves as experts and a growing distrust of the
+dealer makes a breach between buyer and seller. In these places where
+gems are kept the stock ofttimes seems meager, and we manifest our
+disappointment, but are at once assured that their supply is large, but
+at the present time the rarest and most costly have been sent to some
+Maha Rajah who makes regal purchases, and those he declines, perhaps
+from his sufficiency, are returned for sale to those whose love for gems
+is weighed in a balance with their purse.
+
+An English lady artist who was solicited to paint the portrait of one of
+these Rajahs in his own palace, and to abide in the premises during her
+time of labor, told me her powers of description failed her in the
+attempt to portray to others what the coffers of these rulers of
+provinces contained, and with which they adorned themselves on state
+occasions, and to convey to canvas their beauties, would have been the
+work of the Hand that created them.
+
+Calcutta, city of palaces, has a number of theaters, one of which we
+attended. The evening was warm; the audience quite large. In the gallery
+sat parties in groups; over each stood stalwart coolies, in whose hands
+were held a long-handled palm-leaf fan. Not for one moment did they
+falter, but with an unerring movement, gracefully and uninterruptedly
+handled this cumbersome article, which must have had a soothing effect.
+The play was not well supported; now and then was pleasure or
+displeasure manifested by the audience in a loud voice speaking, we were
+told, direct to the actors. After the play was over (by the way, it was
+long drawn out) the foyer rapidly filled and great hilarity prevailed.
+Full dress, now in evidence among the ladies, and gentlemen with their
+tall silk hats and boutonierres looked most like English swells, while
+those in Oriental dress were not eclipsed in brilliant coloring.
+
+The insect life in Calcutta was most annoying. Before going to the
+theatre I had left a small flicker from the gas jet in my room and the
+windows open. What was my dismay on returning to find the originally
+whitewashed walls of my apartment of a dull grey appearance. I doubted
+if my steamer trunk had not been transferred in my absence to a more
+sombre looking chamber, but on my appeal to Brahma, my servant, who lay
+at my door, he assured me that it was innumerable shad flies (as we
+would call them) which had been caught by the glare and had lined walls
+and ceilings and covered my bed spread. Dust pans and brushes were in
+requisition, counterpane shaken, and lace mosquito netting drawn down
+and tucked in before I felt like retiring for the night. To attempt to
+read by an overhanging light was simply impossible, for the print of
+paper or book would be completely obscured by these pestiferous
+creatures, and when we sought an outside veranda that we might, in the
+darkness, at least, carry on a conversation, they would fly down one's
+throat, when we opened our mouths. Imagine what a sacrifice this was to
+be compelled to be dumb, when we had so much to say.
+
+In traveling through India a body servant is indispensable. He lies at
+the door of your sleeping apartment, waits upon you at the table, buys
+your ticket, cares for your baggage and divers other attentions are
+rendered by the patient but most indolent Mohammedan. We are advised not
+to employ a Hindoo servant, as they refuse to serve flesh or fowl to you
+at the table; according to their religious belief, it would be
+pollution.
+
+At 9:15 p. m., Nov. 18, 1895, we find ourselves in a most comfortable
+compartment car, with shower bath and other conveniences. Alongside, but
+not connected in a way that we could speak to them only by calling from
+the car window or door, was the apartment designated for servants. They
+lie down at night on the floor with an extra cotton wrap, which is used
+for the purpose, and I fancy they use their turban for their pillow. To
+our party of four we were entitled to an entire compartment, and no
+intrusion can be made en route, on our privacy. On either side of the
+car are long, cushioned seats, well upholstered and covered with dark
+green leather; over these are suspended corresponding ones which, if not
+in use, are thrown to the ceiling, where they are made secure. At the
+one end is a shorter seat (width of the car) and at the opposite side a
+door leads into a toilet room. The traveler provides his own bedding,
+which consists of pillows or cushions, and steamer blankets or shawls.
+The nights are cold, but the heat through the day, were we not in
+motion, would be insupportable, together with the dust that arises along
+the road, for lack of rain, adds nothing to our comfort. Our coolies, if
+called upon to roll up our bedding, whether from lack of inclination or
+from physical weakness we know not, would look morose, or call in, if at
+a station, additional help to share in the labor, and never fail at the
+end of the day to ask for compensation for the annas expended on their
+co-workers.
+
+I could better appreciate the statement made by an English missionary
+from the Isle of Wight that he kept sixteen servants in his own
+household (and he was a bachelor); that no one coolie would perform what
+he himself considered to be the work of two men. I must confess to their
+indolence, but it appeared to me a trifle extravagant for a dependant
+upon the missionary board. He was a most agreeable gentleman, however,
+and I am under many obligations for a prescription which enabled me,
+when I had it filled, to accomplish my sight seeing, and travel in
+India, our own remedies having no effect in that country or climate. In
+returning to the question of manual labor: the working of the "punkas,"
+or swinging fans, alone required many men, to keep the air in motion
+for the comfort of people. In the hotel dining room these fans were hung
+on wires, stretched at intervals the entire length and breadth of the
+salon, say five feet apart. The material used was a white or drab
+drilling (cotton cloth) made into huge box plaits; wire or rope was
+attached to and drawn above these punkas to holes in the wall, which
+separated the dining room from a corridor. There sat, or rather
+squatted, a dozen, more or less, coolies with these wires either in
+their hands or fastened to their feet, and would sway to and fro,
+causing a vibration in the air that was most acceptable in these warm
+climates, while eating.
+
+The native coolies are neither scrupulously truthful nor honest,
+indolent to a degree, rather sullen, but to all appearances submissive.
+They are fond of stimulants, more especially opium and tobacco. In
+traveling you are under the surveillance of your servants, fearing you
+may make some purchase without their knowledge, causing them to lose a
+commission to which they feel themselves entitled for having directed
+your steps or attention to the shop of the dealer.
+
+They receive their stipulated wages, traveling expenses defrayed by the
+employer, but added to this is a constant appeal to your sympathies; for
+instance: "I am just in receipt of news from home. My son is lying
+(great stress on son) very ill. My mother has no money to employ a
+doctor. What am I to do if the good lady will not assist me to send
+some help to her?" It has been proven that these same applicants have no
+family and have recklessly spent their allowance in riotous living on
+their journey. We have to provide a winter outfit if it is cold, such as
+a night blanket of cotton cloth, and some clothing--for during the
+heated term clothing is unnecessary--and pay for the return trip to
+their home, without we find travelers going the same route we have just
+taken, and if the servants have merited a recommendation we give it to
+them and are thus relieved ourselves. We found one of the tricks of the
+trade was for the coolie to secure a returning party--we will say, to
+make ourselves lucid, from Bombay to Calcutta--but to keep the matter
+secret from us so that we might give them a return ticket, which they
+could easily sell. In spite of our experience there must be some good
+and true natives, for her majesty, Queen Victoria, has for her closest
+body-servant the Indian, chosen for his submission and faithfulness.
+
+Our journey to Benares was at night, because of the freedom from dust
+and heat. The early dawn found us awake and peeping out of shutters for
+a sight of the country through which we were passing. The stations are
+well built, and crowds of natives, men and women, flock there on arrival
+of trains, offering for sale flowers, sweets, fruits, the cocoanut,
+lemons and a sort of banana. At your desire the cocoanut, nicely scraped
+and clean, will be broken so that you may quaff at your leisure what
+must be to them a delicious cool drink--a little goes a good way with
+me. It is well to be supplied with plenty of their small coin, for they
+are so slow in making the necessary change that the car has proceeded on
+its way before they have accomplished the task.
+
+The experience of one of our party was a lesson to us. A gentleman from
+California, desiring some nuts or fruit, gave in exchange a pound in
+gold--all he had at hand. The train started, but all in vain were his
+protestations; the speed increased, and what was most provoking, was to
+see at a safe distance the naked boy running, apparently, trying to
+overtake us, but laughing immoderately at the joke--he will get his
+reward. This reminds me of a story to the point. On one occasion in my
+own native land I had an appeal made for help for a poor family. Having
+often allowed my heart to run away with my head, I determined this time
+to be forearmed. So I visited the house of distress, found things clean
+and tidy, but cupboards empty and a man in bed, supposed to be the
+husband of the woman who had sought my aid. It was with apparent
+difficulty he spoke to me. I hurried to order from the adjacent market a
+full supply for several days. After exhausting my strength I felt myself
+unable to go farther into the city where I could replace an undershirt
+his loving spouse said had been stolen from the clothes line, and his
+need of a change was most pressing. On my way home, tired and footsore,
+I resolved to call on a neighboring friend where gentlemen were more
+plentiful than with me, and ask for cast-off underwear. On interrogating
+me, my friend laughed to see my distress, and informed me it was an old
+trick of the woman. The sick man was a perfectly strong, well man--and
+rarely was the same man on exhibition. Alack, for me! I had, during the
+day, met our pastor, Mr. Monroe Gibson, and begged that he might call at
+his earliest convenience, lest the dying man might go out of the world
+without a prayer, for his soul's salvation. In the twilight I retraced
+my steps to tell Mr. Gibson how, in common parlance, "I had been sold."
+After a sympathetic look, he in his Scotch brogue said: "Well, never
+mind; you remember the man who put a crown in the contribution box where
+he intended to put a penny and, on retiring from the church, went to the
+man who had charge of the alms box and told him that he had made a
+mistake. The pastor did not offer to refund it, but simply said:
+'Brother, you will have your reward in heaven'" (for a good intention,
+not for the amount given).
+
+Low mud houses, hid among the palms, afforded shelter from the sun
+during the noonday hours. Men, women and children, the former and latter
+nude or scantily clad, grouped together along the road; the faces of the
+women were partially veiled. The scene is rather picturesque, with the
+chatter of the monkeys and the singing of bright plumaged birds. They
+lend some animation to the otherwise barren prospects. We learn there
+are common schools throughout the country for the male population, but
+women are uneducated except in religious art and duties. Government no
+longer tolerates the wife sacrificing her body on the pyre of her dead
+husband; but death is preferable to a life of widowhood, owing to the
+self-denial forced upon her by his family.
+
+The climate of India is conducive to economy in clothing, as little, if
+any, is needed. The diet of the native would be starvation in a cooler
+clime. A mud hut gives the needed shelter, and the offal of the animals,
+dried in cakes on the sides of their hovels, give them sufficient fuel
+to boil their rice and other vegetables. The masses have never known
+anything but oppression; they are apparently kind to man and beast. We
+never heard any wrangling, nor witnessed any street brawls. A native
+will step aside, rather than tread upon an ant, which is the pest of the
+country.
+
+Benares is sixteen hours' ride from Calcutta, a distance of 450 miles.
+We find there Clark's Hotel patronized by tourists, on the outskirts of
+the city, a refreshing looking spot and most restful bungalow. We rested
+under the cool shades of the palm trees until a favorable hour, and then
+drove to the "Holiest of Holy Cities," situated on the Ganges river,
+once alike holy to the Buddhist as it is now to the Hindoo. The sacred,
+the three-fold divine river, runs, according to their religion, through
+Heaven, Hell and Earth. To die on its banks, and to have one's ashes
+thrown upon its bosom, is a through ticket to Paradise. Troops of men,
+women and children, tired and footsore, are met wending their way to the
+shrines. To bathe in the Ganges is to wash away all sins.
+
+Crowds throng the narrow, dusty streets; the women rather gracefully
+attired, with a profusion of silver ornaments, ear-rings, nose-rings,
+bracelets and bangles; the men nude or with a scant loin cloth. The
+houses are built of clay, sun baked, some of brick, stuccoed, ancient as
+time in appearance, unfit for habitation, but are grouped among the
+shops and temples in close proximity. The monkey temple is especially
+interesting, surrounded by well wooded grounds where the monkeys frisk
+and frolic all day long and are fed by an admiring crowd, who regard
+them as sacred animals. These temples are reached by a long flight of
+stone steps, which I found myself slowly climbing, when, without
+warning, I was rudely pushed to one side. On looking around, I saw a
+diminutive grey cow ascending the steps with great dignity, and it was
+the contact with this animal that had so shocked me. I quickened my
+gait, and in my attempt to get out of the way. I rushed into the first
+opening that met my view, which proved to be the entrance to the temple
+grounds, set apart for these sacred cows. The animal was close beside me
+and I vaulted like a school boy to a neighboring ledge of rock. I became
+agile from fear, but the fright occasioned by the cow's triumphant entry
+was nothing to the brandishing of arms of the natives in charge. I was
+brushed aside like a fly in the sacred enclosure, where no heretic was
+allowed to enter. Truly, I felt far from home! Garlands of marigolds,
+kept fresh at wells of water, are sold to devotees to lay at the feet or
+to encircle the gods of brass and stone that are seen in every
+direction. We are not permitted to enter a Hindoo temple, but get a
+glimpse in passing of their tinselled gaudiness. This seething caldron,
+where beasts usurp the rights of men, women and children, who are all
+bowing down to objects of wood and stone, is a sight one may long
+for--but once in a lifetime is quite satisfactory, and we gladly
+withdraw.
+
+The early dawn of day finds us driving through the already crowded
+streets on our way to the "Ghats." Boats lie in readiness to convey us
+along the sacred shore of the Ganges, for but one bank is consecrated;
+the opposite shore seems a dreary waste. For miles homes and sacred
+structures are reared; here and there massive ruins attest the powers of
+the Ganges' floods on solid masonry. From a distance it is picturesque,
+but on close inspection has a most dilapidated appearance. The
+well-built stone steps, or Ghats, are crowded at this early hour with
+pilgrims and devotees wrapped in their white robes. They wade out into
+the holy stream, bowing and drinking double hands full of water, so
+nauseous in appearance, and taking off from themselves garlands of
+marigolds, throw them on the surface of the water, then wash their
+mouths, and return on shore for certain ministrations that the priests
+stood in readiness to perform for them, which seemed to complete the
+purification. Their caste was manifested by certain marks made with
+ashes or paint on their foreheads.
+
+From the upper deck of our small steamer we overlook the ceremony of
+cremation, not unlike that we had seen in Calcutta. The bodies were
+wrapped in crimson-colored cheese cloth and laid upon a rude bier
+composed of two poles, laced together with rope; so near the water were
+these bodies placed that the feet were completely covered. We were told
+that very sick persons were brought when dying, and the immersion in the
+holy water would bring about a reaction, and restoration to health would
+ensue. No mourners were around the body, and those who ministered at the
+cremation were ostracized socially, being considered unclean for a
+certain length of time, and are of the lowest caste. The sheik who has
+charge of the burning has the ashes thoroughly sifted to secure any
+jewelry that may have been on the body, and as theft is often committed
+by the men employed to rake up the ashes, great disputes arise in
+consequence.
+
+The colossal form in stone of the "God Beem" lies prostrate on the
+ground, and women in peril of childbirth come in throngs on moonlight
+nights to pray for the safe deliverance of a son; girls are at a
+discount in the Orient. We saw a man stretched upon a bed of spikes,
+paying penance for some sin committed, or to find favor by
+self-abnegation with his god. When we appeared, incredulous as to the
+actual facts, the man arose to show the pierced flesh and the sharp
+points of which his bed was composed. The upholding of an arm until the
+flesh withers, and the limb stiffens, is most revolting. These devotees
+allow their finger nails to become, so extended that they look like
+claws, or more like the roots of a tree seen in Ceylon, which lie on top
+of the ground. We are privileged to visit the palace of the Maha Rajah,
+which is quite a distance from Benares and on the unconsecrated shore of
+the Ganges. Numbers of naked coolies run along the shore, pulling with
+all their strength on the ropes attached to the boat. When we arrive
+opposite the palace we are transferred to a raft, which is rowed and
+pushed to the landing. The gloomy structure rises before us, and the
+approach to it is rather intricate, through courtyards much littered up
+with debris. As we enter with our guide, we are informed of the Rajah's
+absence from home, but we are permitted to wander through rooms most
+inhospitable in appearance. A few pictures adorn the walls and some
+handsome bric-a-brac is scattered here and there. We are told that the
+Rajah himself is most hospitable, and much more would have been shown us
+had he been at home. The great attraction in making this visit is to see
+the hundreds of elephants and tigers he has in his possession, but "the
+shades of night were falling fast" and we declined any further delay.
+
+Our trip to Benares was much more rapid on returning. We floated down
+the Ganges by moonlight; it was a grewsome scene. We were gathered
+together on the deck of our steamer, while our guide, at our feet, was
+beguiling the weary hours by his weird tales. Visions of crocodiles,
+awaiting their prey, float before our eyes; lights from the shore grew
+indistinct, and our little group most abject; but the landing place at
+length was in sight, and we had kept our carriage awaiting our return.
+We were driven through dark, narrow streets to the garden of a temple,
+where lived the holy man of Benares. We remained in our vehicle until
+our guide ascertained whether we could have an interview. It was 9:00
+p. m., but being American tourists, we were admitted. He was a man
+apparently sanctified by his mode of living, not unlike that of Buddha.
+He was emaciated, and as we approached him, he arose from his cot not
+entirely nude, but a simple loin cloth was his only clothing. A canopy
+was above his bed, and that was his home, day and night. He is a
+profound Hindoo scholar, and without doubt will be canonized after
+death. His manner toward us was most cordial and especially towards the
+one of our group who hailed from Chicago. He spoke through an
+interpreter, saying that the governor of Chicago had called on him
+before the World's Fair, urging the holy man to visit him at the time of
+the exhibition, but he could not think of ever leaving India. He then
+sent for his book of registration and showed us the name registered as
+Carter H. Harrison. We were asked to write our names, which we did, and
+were then offered by an attendant fruits and given a book containing his
+own life to date. He was born in 1833, married at twelve years of age,
+and was a father at eighteen. Like Buddha, he withdrew from all natural
+ties and set himself apart for a religious life. When asked if he did
+not feel the cold night air to be injurious, his reply was in his
+graceful gesture pointing heavenward, and in his signal language made us
+understand that under a watchful eye no harm could befall him.
+
+The country from Benares to Lucknow is but little different from what we
+have already passed, though the distance is 190 miles. Population,
+250,000. Manufacturers of carpets, rugs, gold lace and embroideries are
+found here, and seemingly the natives are interested in their
+employment, but are poor and oppressed. The remains of mausoleums and
+palaces attest former grandeur before its ownership was absolutely in
+the hands of its conquerors. Hotel accommodations are poor. We drove to
+the park to "Leeundea Bagh," where during the mutiny of 1857 two
+thousand mutineers were killed within two hours--Sir Colin Campbell
+under command. The residency was built in 1800 by Sahondah Ally Kahn.
+During the mutiny it contained only 927 Europeans, who were besieged by
+the rebels. Shot and shell marks are to be seen in the walls. The Fort
+Mueks' Bhawan, built during the famine as relief work at great cost, is
+of much interest; also a museum filled with objects of curiosity.
+Lucknow, famous in song, ran through my mind as we looked in vain for a
+Lalla Rookh, the imaginary character of the poet Moore.
+
+Cawnpoor, thirty miles further on, with 130,000 inhabitants, presents
+large industries of leather work, rice mills and jute manufactories. The
+drive to the beautiful park, which now crosses the battlefield, is most
+interesting. The stately monument of pure white marble, surmounted by a
+female figure, with widespread wings, and in each hand a palm of most
+exquisite workmanship, combined with gracefulness. An English officer
+stands near by ready to give you a brief but graphic account of the
+mutiny. The monument stands on the spot over the great well, into which
+were thrown alive 700 men, women and children, who were hurled into it
+in one day by the order of Nana Sahib. A beautiful memorial church not
+far away has been erected in memory of the loved and lost. We enter
+during vesper hours; such perfect peace and quiet reigns in and around
+this sacred spot, where many English men and women were gathered at the
+service. It seemed so isolated to me so far from home. The drives in the
+vicinity are fascinating, yet the rice fields were beginning to grow
+scarce and less grass was seen. We journey on. Wheat fields appear more
+frequently; apparently no demarcation between land of different owners.
+Trees are scarce, but the excrement of cattle is sun baked and used for
+fuel. The homes of the people are mud-walled pens, huddled together,
+surrounded by walls of the same material. This grouping of homes, such
+as they were, attracted our attention all along our journey. This is
+evidently for protection. No isolated farm houses, with the comforts of
+life, were in evidence.
+
+The pay of the laborers who construct the railroad is three annas a day
+(2-1/4 cents); an English-speaking servant will get 34 cents a day (one
+rupee and four annas) for food. We do not realize how thickly settled
+the country is in traveling on the railroad, but by and by we see the
+mud-walled village again with its hundreds of inhabitants, who rush out
+on the approach of the train, the women and children crying piteously
+for backsheesh. The wealth and strength of the past ages is now seen in
+their morgues, mausoleums and palaces, many of them wrecks of their
+former beauty, but patience and long years of toil are evident in their
+crumbling walls.
+
+The Punjab country lies between the five great branches of the Indus
+River. The men here are magnificent specimens of physical development.
+The Sikh soldiers are the handsomest known. We see them acting as
+policemen at Hongkong, and we stop to admire their erect carriage and
+military tread. There is one defect, however, in the anatomy of the men
+of India; they have no calves to their legs. The Sikh is less servile
+than any other tribe, hard fighters, but attain to more or less civility
+in their contact with Europeans.
+
+Our next stopping place to Benares was Aigra, so full of interest;
+namely, the Fort; the Pearl Mosque, the imperial palace, built by Abkur,
+the grandfather of Shah Jehan; the palace of wonders; its walls inlaid
+with agates, topaz, tagula and other more precious stones. The rooms set
+apart for the harem women are exquisitely beautiful. The oriental
+imagination must have lost itself in the construction and adornment of
+this palace. The apartments built for his favorite wife, with a boudoir
+and marble baths--the water furnished for the latter was delicately
+perfumed--and walls, mirrored with small pieces of glass, looked like
+the firmament in its brightness, but it remained for Shah Jehan to
+astonish the world with the mausoleum built for his (not the most
+correct) wife. The Tag Mahal, the tomb of his sultana, Montag Mahal, is
+the most beautiful creation in marble in existence. We are told she was
+beautiful; her devotion to Shah Jehan was proverbial, and his for her
+idolatrous. Her dying request was that her husband should never take for
+himself another wife, and in her memory should build a tomb that could
+have no rival, and one that all the world would admire. "Tag" is a pet
+name of endearment; "Mahal" means great or beautiful; "Montag Mahal,"
+the chosen of the palace. In the words of another I will describe the
+Tag Mahal, as I know no more fitting words to use. "Passing through a
+majestic Saracenic arch, eighty feet in height, supported by two
+abutments of sand stone, on the panels of which are carved passages from
+the Koran, is a long vista of cypress trees, shading a marble paved
+canal, on either side of which are beds of flowers and crystal
+fountains. At the end of this magic avenue stands the "Tag" on a
+terrace; at either corner of this square is an edifice of sandstone,
+with a dome of the same material. The "Tag" is built of polished white
+marble, its oriental dome shaped like a globe, tapering up into a spire
+surmounted by a golden crescent. The platform upon which the "Tag" is
+placed is a square of 313 feet each side and eighteen feet in height.
+From each of the corners rise four lesser domes of the same matchless
+marble, forming graceful minarets." By moonlight and by sunset we gaze
+upon this Arabian night or day dream. "A thing of beauty is a joy
+forever." Italian, Sarascenic and Persian are all suggested in its
+architecture, and we are told that Shah Jehan expected to build for
+himself a tomb of black polished marble within sight, but on the other
+side of the River Jumna, but the depleted state of the treasury caused
+alarm in the mind of his son; fearing he would be impoverished, he made
+his father a prisoner in the imperial palace. We stood in the room
+wherein he had lain in his dying hours, and gazed out of the windows, as
+he did, upon the beautiful vision which was within his sight, his last
+wish was gratified, and his earthly vision failed in the view he had of
+Montag's tomb. He looked out beyond the Jumna, as the western sun's rays
+kissed the pure white marble, reflecting on its polished surface--the
+reflex it may have been of a heavenly vision, vouchsafed only to those
+who pass the portals.
+
+Delhi, the next station en route, notwithstanding the dust and heat, has
+its attractions. The Bungalow Hotel is kept by an Englishwoman who, with
+her sons, had a number of hostelries in India and along the tourist line
+of travel. This one offered but few comforts. The proprietress assured
+me that they would soon build a good hotel, as travel demanded it. She
+evidently had received a telegram that we were on our way from her son's
+place, at whose table we had sat at Aigra. She sent her private
+conveyance for us to the depot, and received us herself with some
+cordiality, and was much gratified to learn of our pleasant memories of
+Aigra, with its tombs, temples, and its exquisite embroideries--the best
+we saw in India--woven of the finest texture and wrought upon with such
+delicacy that we could scarce realize that the dark, swarthy fingers of
+those poor native Indians could work out such marvels. We bought
+handsome table decorations in embroidered satin and bemoaned that we did
+not get more, after we were too far away to retrace our steps.
+
+One of the attractions of Delhi is the tower of Kutah Mina, rising to a
+height of 240 feet, divided into five stories, built of red, buff and
+pink sandstone. The column, or tower, is of fluted architecture for most
+of the height, and decorated at intervals with layers of white marble
+slabs. We were told it was built for a favorite daughter of the ruling
+monarch, that she might, from its height, view the Holy River Jumna,
+which was at a great distance from her home. According to the tale told
+us, this tower must be ascended before she broke her morning fast. Near
+by stands the iron pillar, nearly a foot and a half in diameter and over
+forty feet high above the ground. It is a solid shaft of malleable iron,
+the natives claim its foundation is laid in the center of the earth. To
+see the tower and iron pillar necessitates a ride of eleven miles
+through dust and dirt and but little of any interest along the wayside.
+We visited the tomb of Johanara, the daughter of Shah Jehan, who shared
+her father's captivity. Pure in spirit and humble she chose a plain
+block of marble or alabaster, to cover her grave, screened by a
+delicately wrought white marble. The epitaph inscribed on her tomb
+reads:
+
+    "Place naught but one green herb above my head;
+     This alone befits the poor and lonely dead."
+
+Pious monks keep fresh grass on her tomb; a slab at the head of the
+grave bears this inscription in Arabic: "God is life and the
+resurrection." The shops are attractive and we find and purchase some
+ivories and, if one cares for the likeness of Shah Jehan, they will be
+able to purchase paintings in miniature of him and his wife, done on
+porcelain. Whether or not true to nature, we are unable to judge.
+Beautiful pink pearls are shown us. How often I have regretted not
+buying some of them; we never found them so perfect after leaving Delhi.
+The enameled bracelets are shown in great variety, and yet we pass them
+by.
+
+Jeypore is a typical Indian city, twelve hours by rail from Delhi. The
+streets are wide and well watered, the houses of stucco, gaudily painted
+in hieroglyphic designs, are two and three stories high. In the middle
+of the streets, at intervals of two or three squares, are stone wells,
+around which rested diminutive gods of wood and stone. In the early
+morning hours the natives lay an offering of flowers before these idols
+and wash their hands or faces in the water and go on their way
+rejoicing. Innumerable pigeons, regarded as sacred, swarm in the
+streets, where they are fed.
+
+We spend Thanksgiving day (November, 1895) in Jeypore, sight-seeing, our
+hearts longing for the dear ones at home. In our wanderings we met a
+wedding party. The bride, we are told, was twelve years old, the groom
+twenty-one. They were seated in a gaudily decorated car, drawn by oxen.
+A scarlet canopy, with India shawl draperies, hung gracefully down and
+almost concealed the little veiled lady; she wore a scarlet wrap. The
+groom elect, sat Turkish fashion, wore a tall hat and looked most
+solemn. We entered a bazaar, where bronze and lacquer were for sale,
+together with ancient armor, kept by one Mr. Zoroaster, a man of
+distinction. While on the second floor of the building, overlooking a
+court-yard, some gaily dressed veiled women came in and began to beat
+their tomtoms. Mr. Zoroaster remarked: "It is only on great occasions
+that my sister ever leaves her home. It is she who is below, accompanied
+by her women in waiting, and have come to bid my family to the wedding
+of her daughter." He told us the bride and groom were wealthy, and that
+her father was to give a feast to five thousand people on this, their
+wedding day. He, Mr. Zoroaster, told us the dress of his sister for the
+occasion cost 2,000 rupees. It was crimson, embroidered in gold, a
+fluted skirt; many yards in width. Her bracelets and bangles were
+studded with jewels. The band played as the procession moved slowly
+through the streets.
+
+The palace of the Maha Rajah was opened for inspection; the rugs were
+rolled; the furniture covered and, as the Rajah was away from home,
+things seemed neglected. Pigeons were stalking around and in the palace,
+and rare birds of bright plumage seemed to the manor born as they stood
+or flew in and out at their own sweet will. Hundreds of elephants were
+kept on these grounds and owned by the Maha Rajah. It was an imposing
+sight to see these clumsy but dignified animals with their oriental
+trappings and painted ear flaps. The coloring was most harmonious.
+Horses innumerable were in the stables and were with their care keepers,
+making ready for their daily outing. It is a scene, when elephants,
+horses and tigers are led through the streets and, perhaps, witnessed
+nowhere else in such regal splendor. Camels stalked through the highways
+with their burdens; panther dogs, led by their masters, strolled
+leisurely along; in fact, one might feel it was a gala day and a
+menagerie on exhibition. There are public cages here; lions and tigers
+can be seen within the city's limit. Around these cages, where the
+crowds gather, come the poor, wretched, deformed beggars, heart-rending
+to gaze upon--to say nothing of the loathsome lepers, which were more
+hideous than the wild beasts.
+
+A school of fine arts, sustained by the rulers of Jeypore, was well
+equipped with men and boys, who were industriously and skillfully
+beating and moulding brass into useful and decorative articles. Pottery,
+and especially lacquer work is carried on, we were told, to a greater
+degree of perfection than elsewhere in the world.
+
+It was at Jeypore we saw the Nautch girls, kept by the Maha Rajah for
+his own amusement. Our guide would have us believe that we were greatly
+favored in this, our opportunity. One hour spent with them was quite
+enough, and cost us six dollars, a ridiculous expenditure. However, we
+have started out to see the sights; this is one of them. We were taken
+to a house and led up to the second story back porch, we might call it,
+overlooking a gloomy courtyard. A white quilted rug was thrown upon the
+floor. Three native girls appeared, dressed gorgeously in knife-pleated
+skirts to the knees, embroidered in gold. On their heads were thrown
+beautiful grenadine scarfs, drawn gracefully over their shoulders.
+Coronets studded with jewels, with ear-rings, bracelets and bangles
+resplendent with dazzling gems. Three women stood behind these girls,
+advancing and retreating, keeping time with their rude musical
+instruments. They move their bodies in a most disgusting manner from the
+hip down, while they attempt to portray great intensity of feeling. In a
+short time they became very familiar, and disposed to be very
+flirtatious with the gentlemen of our party, taking off their bracelets,
+ear-rings and other ornaments and attempted to place them on their
+wrists or hang them on their ears. They, in return are anxious to secure
+a ring or any ornament we wear. They are repulsive and full of evil,
+judging from their looks and actions. They were roughly spoken to by an
+old, grey-headed woman, who evidently had them in charge, and, we
+thought, was urging them to offer us wine or refreshment, from which we
+could not escape before paying, but we had been forewarned and hastily
+withdrew, our guide settling our bill, while we hurried into our
+carriage. In their gyrations they would represent snake charmers,
+kite-flyers and divers and other mysterious movements that were anything
+but graceful.
+
+Our visit to Amber, a city of ruins adjacent to Jeypore, was made partly
+by carriage and the ascent of the mountain by elephant to the winter
+palace of the Rajah. A small ladder was attached to the howdah on the
+back of the animal, and one by one we climbed and took our seat, two on
+one side and two on the other--back to back. While making this climb
+the huge elephant knelt, all four feet doubled under him. When we were
+seated he arose. The motion was not pleasant, but all fear was dispelled
+by the two faithful coolies who walked on either side of Jumbo and
+directed his footsteps with an iron probe. We reach the palace, after a
+tedious ride, and to alight was a feat, but we were quite repaid by the
+interior views. We were too late for a sacrifice that had just been made
+of a sheep or lamb; saw nothing but a sprinkling of blood and the dying
+embers, or ashes, upon which a portion of the animal sacrificed is
+cooked for the priests in attendance. The walls of the palace were most
+unique. Doubtless, while the plaster was still wet, pieces of mirror,
+the size of a 25-cent piece were imbedded in it, and so thickly studded
+were these walls and ceilings that the effect was brilliant. The rooms
+were large and orange trees grew apace where a spot of ground appeared.
+The ruins of Amber, which we overlook, seemed the haunts of fakirs,
+naked and covered with dirt; with their thin, long hair matted, hanging
+over their shoulders or on their faces. These fanatics, in their self
+abnegation, are looking for their reward in Nirvanna, where they think
+only those enter who from self-denial purify themselves. Our return down
+the mountain seemed perilous, but our sure-footed Jumbo forbids fears
+and where his instincts failed the goad of the native caretakers seemed
+effective. We found it a slow mode of traveling, but sure. We could but
+admire the oriental coloring of Jumbo's ear flaps; they were those of a
+superb India shawl. On the wayside we saw altars for sacrifice and to
+imitate blood was rude bespatterment of red paint or a like mixture. I
+wondered if their religion taught them that this is emblematic of the
+blood that cleanseth from all sin. I could not learn from inquiries made
+of my guide.
+
+
+BOMBAY.
+
+The trip from Jeypore to Bombay was the most tedious of any made in
+India, as we made no stops. It took us from 10:30 p. m. Monday till 8:30
+p. m. on Wednesday. The road was monotonous and dusty; however, the
+nights were cool and comfortable. Our compartment, although commodious,
+was covered with, it seemed, the dust of ages, but on pointing it out to
+our stupid servant he immediately took off his turban of white cheese
+cloth and mopped with it the seats and floor, shook off the dust,
+literally, and replaced it in form of a turban, slightly changed in
+coloring. The chiaroscuro was striking. The meals obtained at the
+stations were most unattractive.
+
+Bombay is built upon an island, although the separation from the
+mainland is scarcely perceptible. The waters of the bay are studded with
+islands, and the harbor is capacious enough for the commerce of the
+world. The beautiful road skirting the bay leads to Malabar Hill, upon
+which are the homes of the foreign officials, and upon this boulevard is
+the exquisite statue in white marble, most delicately carved, of Queen
+Victoria in her palmy day appearance, when youth and hope make the
+countenance brighter. This statue was rudely defaced during the recent
+plague (1899) by unknown hands. On the summit of Malabar Hill are the
+Towers of Silence, surrounded by a grove of palm trees, with well laid
+out grounds. On either side of the entrance to these towers are chapels
+on whose altar burns the unquenchable fire and in whose purification the
+following of Zoroaster believe.
+
+There are eighty steps to ascend to reach these towers, the place where
+the Parsee dead are deposited. Four carriers support the bier, followed
+closely by two long-bearded men (who alone enter the tower, handling the
+corpse with tongs and gloved hands). Fifty or a hundred men follow, two
+by two (clothed in white, with the funnel-shaped hat worn by the
+Parsees). One peculiarity of this solemn procession was the tying of the
+right and left hand of each couple, which had some religious
+signification. A short burial service is held in the chapel and then the
+body deposited at the foot of a ladder that clings to and reaches the
+door of the tower. This aperture is about five feet from the top of the
+tower, wherein lies a gridiron circular in form, ready for the dead.
+The tower is cylindrical in shape, built of strong masonry, at a cost of
+from $100,000 to $150,000. There are four of these in the enclosure; the
+largest is twenty-five feet high, and from eighty to one hundred feet in
+diameter. A deep well is underneath the tower, and as the flesh is
+consumed by the vultures, which are perched close beside each other on
+top of this circular wall, the bones fall into a deep well
+(subterranean), where by some chemical process they soon dissolve and
+pass off through a conduit to the sea. The voracious vulture is so
+gluttonous over the amount of food brought for their consumption that
+they frequently become so gorged that they are unable to fly back to
+their perch from the grating. There is nothing visible that is
+revolting, and no odors are emitted. The winding-sheet used on and
+dispensed with on depositing the body in the tower is burnt; in this way
+there are no remains of impurity. The Parsees worship one supreme God,
+and revere the sun and fire only as manifestations of the Deity, and
+never fail to show their adoration when the sun is declining below the
+horizon, by stretching forth their hands and bowing to its expiring
+rays, thus acknowledging the teachings of Zoroaster, their leader.
+
+Bombay has a mixed population. Besides the native Indians are Persians,
+Arabians, Abyssinians, Syrians, Turks, Greeks and people from the Island
+of Madagascar, and--last and much in evidence--the English. The
+Parsees, the most respected sect, vie with the educated Hindoo in
+establishing charity schools and hospitals, and both are alike
+represented in the legislative councils. The more opulent of the Parsees
+educate their sons at Cambridge and Oxford, and generally are great
+travelers. They dress in European costume, but never at home lay aside
+their Parsee hat, so characteristic of the sect. We were told it is
+never discarded by day or night. Caste does not separate them and animal
+food is not forbidden.
+
+We are invited to the home of Mr. Tata, a Parsee gentleman. His family
+ranks high in wealth and position in Bombay. My brother had, on one
+occasion, traveled with him up the Nile. His father and mother adhere to
+the Parsee dress, but their sons, having been educated in Cambridge and
+Oxford, have adopted the European dress, but still wear the hat of their
+sect. Their home occupied an entire square, and a small park separated
+it from the boulevard. We were invited to a four-o'clock tea. As we
+drove into the grounds and to a porte cochere we passed, in a victoria,
+Mr. Tata's brother with his wife. She was dressed in the graceful,
+elegant robes that the Parsee lady wears with such apparent ease. The
+doors were thrown open on our approach, by two turbaned and handsomely
+clad servants. Their white turbans were striped with gold thread; their
+dignified, quiet demeanor was refreshing. At the head of some twenty
+marble steps, full thirty feet in length, we were met by more servants
+in oriental dress, and were shown into the reception room. Mr. Tata was
+there to receive us, and after a few commonplace remarks I could
+restrain myself no longer and began to expatiate on the surroundings. He
+then told us that the house was thrown open once a week for a length of
+time after it was first built, that their friends might come and bring
+guests to see their collection of bric-a-brac and the rare pictures. At
+the head of these marble steps we reached a hall, the walls of which
+were lined with valuable oil paintings. The house was built on the line
+of the street--a solid front--but the interior rooms faced a court yard,
+filled with the most exquisite foliage plant and palms like forest
+trees. A glass roof, that could be slid aside, kept these from the
+elements. With a modest air of ease Mr. Tata took us from room to room.
+The portieres separating these apartments had been made to order in
+Japan--embroideries on satin of pale grey, lined with different shades
+of pink, blue, nile green, and some with white silk. On both sides of
+these portieres were hung what we would call the sheerest linen cambric.
+Tying back each pair, when desired, were ribbons or tassels of
+corresponding colors. All the wood used in this house was imported, rare
+in quality. The collection of carved ivories was surpassingly
+beautiful, as were also articles of jade. We, who had priced them in
+China, Japan and India, knew their value. The dining room was oblong,
+and at an oblong table in the middle of the floor could be seated five
+hundred guests. The table had a hollow center. By lifting up a hinged
+leaf persons could be seated on either side. We were shown the butler's
+pantry, large enough for an army of servants. Its floors were inlaid as
+Mosaic with pieces of broken china and cut glass. Mr. Tata said it was
+his father's idea and he urged him to get out a patent. The wine
+department made one thirsty, and the coolers are most unique, built in
+the wall, each bottle lying on its side in marble chiseled grooves, the
+process of cooling being hid from sight. We ascended a stairway of
+marble, whose broad steps afforded a landing place for our feet, and we
+could but linger to admire the works of art hung upon the walls. A
+beautiful stained glass window, with full effect of the setting sun,
+fronted the south and west at the head of these steps of mammoth
+dimensions. We were taken into Mr. Tata's own private parlor and from
+his bed-room, or an anteroom, sprang at our approach more turbaned and
+splendidly arrayed servants, who immediately after seating us offered on
+gold salvers delicately shaped tea cups, filled with the inviting Indian
+tea, and delicious rolled sandwiches hid in doilies of jeweled satin.
+Well, we drank the tea, but visions of the castle that Aladdin had built
+in one night by the fairies was before my eyes, and fairly blinded me.
+We were disappointed in not meeting his mother and father, both of whom
+he said were at the bedside of his aunt, who was very ill. In bidding
+adieu to our admirable host, we were told a carriage was ready to join
+ours that would convey his best friend with us to a Parsee wedding. We
+wondered why Mr. Tata himself did not accompany us, but found no Parsee
+would be bidden or allowed to enter the place set apart for the guest at
+a wedding feast, without a wedding garment, and when we saw that of the
+gentleman who went with us, we thought Mr. Tata did not care to make
+such an appearance before his American friends.
+
+The dress of the men was of white cotton cloth, made into short, stiff
+and exceedingly full skirts reaching to the knee, an embroidered jacket
+and a tall Parsee hat, bare legs and sandals. The ladies wear one
+outside garment of silk crepe about five yards long of delicate pink,
+blue and other dainty tints and on either edge of this garment is a
+narrow velvet ribbon an inch wide, of a contrasting color--dark blue,
+light blue, pink or maroon in shade. This strip of velvet is embroidered
+in gold and silver thread and inlaid with turquoise, emeralds, pearls,
+etc. This article of drapery is first thrown over the head to cover one
+ear, on the other of which, by the way, is hung the most gorgeous
+solitaire diamond, emerald or ruby. This scarf is then draped most
+artistically about the shoulders and waist and droops in graceful folds
+over a silk or satin petticoat. They are very expensive; even those
+wrought with imitation gems cost more than we felt like expending.
+
+There seems to be a building, or rather two of them, set apart for the
+wedding ceremonies which, we were told, were only consummated at certain
+seasons of the year (December and January). The grounds around were
+beautifully laid out with arches of electric lights spanning the
+fountains, with their sparkling waters, made more scintillating by the
+flickering lights above them. The bride's house was on one side of the
+entrance, the groom's on the other. Her friends were with her; the
+groom's friends with him. He sat at the door, with a magnificent India
+shawl folded and thrown over his arm, the gift of his best man, and wore
+the costume described above. The bride wore a blue crepe of very light
+shade. At a given signal she, with a female friend, was followed by all
+of those men, women and children in procession from the door of her
+apartment to that of the groom's. He received her at the threshold and
+conducted her to one of four seats--two for themselves and two for their
+attendants. These chairs were placed on a rug. Priests, two in number,
+stood on either side of them. A table with a large silver salver,
+filled with well scraped cocoanut in their shells, together with two
+large bowls of rice were brought and placed before them, the former
+designating plenty, the latter denoting increase or conveying the
+command, "multiply and replenish." These the priests hold in their hands
+after first causing the bride to take a seat opposite her husband elect
+and, throwing a cord around their waists, tie them closely together, and
+begin alternately to speak in an emphatic manner, showering,
+continually, the rice on their devoted heads; when the quantity was
+exhausted the bowls were replenished. Afterwards cocoanuts were given to
+each to hold, and for two hours this went on. The crowd, in the
+meantime, stood while a rug was spread and chairs were given to us, the
+honored guests. The children were most elaborately attired in pink and
+blue satin, short and full skirt, with bracelets and bangles in
+profusion; they were very attractive. One of these dear little girls
+never let go my hand, but had led me in the procession to the groom's
+house, and sat with me during the ceremony. Love begets love and I felt
+like keeping her close to me. Beautiful little satin slippers matched
+their dresses. After the ceremony was over, the cord was loosened and
+the bride sat at her husband's left and received congratulations. We
+then returned to the bride's house, across the court-yard and had a rich
+feast of fruits, dainties and wines; a few drops of the latter turned
+my head, but had to be drank for the sake of politeness. The ceremony
+was only half over when we left, all exhausted, for immediately after
+refreshments another two hours of this harangue by the priests had to be
+endured. What bliss was this?
+
+On the following day the visit to the Elphanta caves by sailing vessel
+was most tedious, as the wind was against us, but on our return it was
+in our favor, "and we flew like a bird from the mountain" homeward. The
+landing at these caves was difficult. Stepping stones of huge dimensions
+stretch out into the water like a pier; an ascent of one hundred and
+fifty steps from the sea level brings us to the home of the carekeeper,
+who at once, for an admittance fee, proceeds to the temple close by and
+explains clearly all things necessary for our enlightenment. The temple
+is of solid rock; the builders began half way up the mountain of stone
+and cut down perpendicularly, thus removing the mountain face to a depth
+of thirty feet by one hundred and fifty feet in width. This Besaltic
+rock is chiseled into the interior of the mountain, where perfect
+chambers, with colossal gods, wrought by hand out of the stone, stand in
+representation of the Trinity gods. Brahma represents the creative
+power; Vishnu the preserving power, and Siva the destroying power. The
+guardian of this temple, an old Englishman and his wife, who keep things
+scrupulously clean, and in their own habitation offer us refreshments
+for a small compensation. Our ship the "Caledonia," Capt. Andrews in
+command, sails to-morrow. All is bustle and confusion at the Oriental
+Hotel. We have enjoyed Bombay, with its beautiful carved woods; its
+ivories, and lovely sandal wood boxes; its teak furniture; its markets,
+where everything from a shoe string to a monkey or parrot can be bought;
+its bazaars, where one must have a level head to survive the noise of
+bartering, to say nothing or but little of the jugglers who swarm
+beneath the veranda of the hotel, performing most marvelous feats with
+their cobras and swords for the few piasters that are thrown from an
+admiring and amazed crowd of travelers. We must not fail to speak of
+pleasant acquaintances made; of Sir Richard and Lady Campbell, who will
+be our companions en voyage when we leave this port of Bombay until we
+shall say good bye to them, and Mr. and Miss ----, of England, of whom
+I have before written. We ship all trunks, save our steamer, to Albert
+Docks, London, where we hope to reclaim them before re-embarking for
+home. The parting of retired army officers, their wives and daughters,
+from the sons and brothers who are left behind to achieve fame perhaps,
+or lose their lives in the farther service to their country, seemed less
+affecting than I imagined such scenes would be, but we find patriotism
+very pronounced among the British subjects. They expressed hope of a
+speedy return for one or many more wild boar or tiger hunts amid the
+jungles, where they may add to their already large stock of skins. We
+found the best stock of these for sale in Calcutta in a famous house on
+the opposite side of the street from the Grand Hotel. It is essential to
+select a tiger skin with perfect claws and natural teeth, as too often
+artificial ones are used to promote a sale, and to have them perfect in
+their curing is most desirable; if not, your trunk in which they are
+packed will be well filled with vermin. A zinc trunk is advisable, which
+can be purchased in the shops, and at reasonable prices.
+
+Adieux are spoken, the beautiful bay sparkles in the sunlight, and we
+bid a farewell to the land we may never see again. My own personal
+regrets are few, for I have suffered during the entire sojourn from a
+depression very unlike my normal condition. I hope this benighted race
+may yet be brought from darkness into light and that one common
+brotherhood may be established, and love divine shine over all.
+
+
+
+
+EGYPT.
+
+
+The Arabian sea is to me a reminder of tranquility; the thought of no
+more temples to see, no more heights to climb, no poor, wretched beings,
+whose only existence is prolonged agony to behold, for at least from the
+hour of sailing, 12 a. m., on Saturday, 14th of December, 1895, until we
+reach Ismalia, Saturday, December 21, at 12:30 p. m., what blissful
+anticipation, and so fully realized on this quiet trip. A snug, cool
+cabin all to myself, which opened into a private hallway with a great
+open hatchway, or open half-door, gave me the delicious sea air in its
+fulness of life and vigor without the necessity of my going on deck. Our
+steamer chairs bought at Hongkong were shipped through from Ismalia on
+the same vessel we were sailing to Albert Docks, London, where I found
+mine in good condition. I could recline in this private hall, book in
+hand, and cull from its valuable contents, information of the objects I
+had seen, and what was still in store for me--all the Oriental steamers
+have well-chosen libraries for the benefit of travelers. I had in
+anticipation from the beginning of my trip a strong desire to note in my
+diary items of interest, that I might have enough driftwood on my return
+home for winter fireside, and from further research to be able to leave
+to my grandchildren some fruit that would be to them a lasting
+remembrance of me.
+
+We have booked on the steamer "Caledonia" seventy first-class
+passengers. Among them, my new-made acquaintances, Sir Richard Campbell,
+wife and two daughters. The former was none too happy in his retirement
+from active service to a passive one in the bogs of Ireland or to a
+shoot on the moors of Scotland. We will credit him with no desire to
+capture and hold captive the native coolies, but with a longing while
+still in sight of India's coral strand for the boar and tiger haunts. I
+suggested when he bemoaned of having no longer sufficient work to do to
+keep him happy, that he would write a book of experiences of his life in
+English service. He replied: "The market is overstocked and with but
+little variety or freshness in the productions of the pen." His wife
+will long live in my memory as a fac simile of gentleness and
+refinement. I doubt whether she is in the body at my time of writing, as
+a slow but sure sapping of life's strength was going on from her long
+stay in India's treacherous climate.
+
+Sunday's service was read on board our steamer by an officer, at whose
+right hand at the table, I was seated during our voyage. He was clever
+and I enjoyed the conversations held with him. A smooth sea and a
+fresh-laundried shirt waist were most refreshing on that warm, but
+lovely sail. We landed at Aden, a British port and important coaling
+station, at 11:00 a. m., December 17 (Wednesday), where we lay three
+hours. From Aden is exported Mocha coffee. Where it grows I cannot
+imagine, for the port is to all appearances, the most rocky, barren
+shore we have yet seen--desolation of desolation. Fortunately no coaling
+was necessary for our vessel; it is a most disagreeable task, and
+passengers go ashore if possible to escape the dirt and noise. All the
+carpets and furniture are covered with temporary coverings during the
+transfer from the barges of these huge sacks filled with coal. From hand
+to hand are they tossed by the native coolies, the majority of the
+number employed being women. The labor here, as on the Nile, seems to be
+lightened by a cry, or wail, which never ceases till the work is
+accomplished. Natives in their canoes came in swarms around the steamer
+as she lay at anchor, bringing their stock in trade, which consisted of
+ostrich feather boas, black or a color bordering on it, with those of
+the original grey. In our excitement to get a bargain we purchased, but
+they were poor specimens and not worth the pound we paid for them, but
+we enjoyed the fun of bartering. Some of the passengers bought long,
+stiff, white plumes, which could be utilized in making fans. After our
+purchases were made Mrs. Dudley and myself having each selected a grey
+boa, were warned by one who had been there before that we had more than
+we bargained for, and that it would be better before depositing them in
+the trunks to investigate. We needed no farther explanation, but held at
+a safe distance the coveted articles and rushed to my cabin, while Mrs.
+Dudley sent to the head steward for a package of cayenne pepper, which
+had been my suggestion. After a fierce struggle, we succeeded in
+thoroughly sprinkling the feathery lengths, and then purloined a steamer
+towel, sewing them up until we should reach Paris, where we determined
+to have them steamed and curled, providing there was anything to curl.
+On my arrival in that city of fashion, I immediately sought a Tapissier
+or cleaner, and besought them not to sue me for damages, if they should,
+on opening the package, sneeze themselves to death. In a few days, on my
+return to our Pension with two friends, we passed the feather cleaner's
+establishment, when what to my wondering eyes did appear, but a huge
+caterpillar in appearance in the window, which we all declared, must
+have escaped from the jardin d'acclimatation. After many uncomplimentary
+remarks, I was compelled to acknowledge that it belonged to me and was
+bought in the Orient among other articles of "virtu." But to return to
+Aden. We were struck with the weird looks of the natives, with nothing
+to conceal their nakedness but the sacred cord around their loins. Their
+hair was red; their skin black; the "Witches of Endor" would have paled
+in comparison. The water seemed to be their native element; they would
+dive down and under the vessel, appearing on the opposite side for a
+piaster, which, when thrown from the deck of the vessel into the water,
+they would bring to the surface in their mouths.
+
+The day following we were on the Red Sea--smooth sailing, and no land in
+sight; weather, (December 18th,) beautifully cool and pleasant. The
+passengers on deck enjoyed the sport so much in vogue on these "P. and
+O." steamers. "Pull for your life," which enlisted the participation of
+ladies and gentlemen; the latter, after removing their shoes, could
+stand on the well-sanded deck. The leaders locked horns and their
+comrades chose sides, each placing their arms around the waists of the
+one preceding them, and then came the "tug of war." It was as great fun
+to the bystander as it was good exercise for those engaged in the sport.
+A reward followed to the victorious side, which, perhaps, took the form
+of ginger ale or seltzer. We enter the Suez canal at 4:00 p. m.,
+December 21st (Saturday afternoon). The evening shadows closed around
+us; the low shores sank into half-transparent vagueness, and threw into
+relief against the evening sky a solitary individual straying along the
+water's edge, while within, a hundred yards from shore, were a band of
+Arabs, folding their tents, preparatory to a long journey across the
+desert. It was a most impressive scene. The quiet was almost
+overpowering. The lonely hour and the more lonely surroundings, all
+combined, made an indelible impression. The camels were in the act of
+kneeling to receive the burden they must carry on the journey. In the
+moonlight, the undulating sands of the Lybian and Arabian deserts looked
+like the billows of an ocean, and the camels with their swaying motion
+like moving sail vessels, were lost to sight in solemn silence. This
+voyage on the Suez canal has a charm of its own indefinable.
+
+The Suez maritime canal is about 120 miles in length from sea to sea
+(Mediterranean to the Red). Out of this length only thirty-eight miles
+were found to be above sea level; the remaining eighty-two were either
+below or on the same level. About midway between the two seas is Lake
+Timsah, nine miles in circumference. That basin is converted into a
+central harbor, where vessels may at all times find a safe and
+convenient anchorage. From El Guise, through which the canal passes to
+the Mediterranean, the width is 240 feet, and from El Guise to Ismalia
+it is 180 feet, after which it passes into the proper width, 240 feet.
+The estimate of keeping the canal in order, from its completion in 1869
+to 1895, is about L75,000 sterling. Great dredges lie near the shore as
+we pass, from which vessels steer away. Charges agreed upon for transit
+are ten francs, or two dollars, per ton; hence, our steamer "Caledonia"
+paid for her weight of 4,125 tons, $825. The Indian steamers, instead of
+stopping at Suez, steam directly to Port Said, anchoring off Ismalia
+only long enough for passengers to land. We reached this point at 12:00
+p. m. Before arriving a late supper was ordered by a few to celebrate
+the leave-taking, for many who had traveled together so far were to
+continue their journey to Marseilles and from thence to England, and
+others with us were to go into Egypt. We here bade good-bye to Mr. and
+Miss Donnesthorpe, who had been with us en route from Nagasaki, Japan.
+Before leaving Mr. Donnesthorpe gave me his confidence regarding his
+engagement to an English girl he had left at home. The outward-bound
+vessels, instead of stopping at Alexandria, steam direct through the
+canal to Suez and Bombay, while one vessel homeward bound passes through
+this canal every week. Thus, two vessels a week make 104 a year.
+Averaging 1,000 tons per vessel, the aggregate 104,000 tons at two
+dollars a ton will produce the sum of L41,600 sterling annually. These
+vessels carry to and from home about 10,000 persons a year, and this
+number pay L4,000, so that from the Peninsular and Oriental line of
+steamers alone the canal company will receive L45,000 annually,
+exclusive of the duties received from coal ships. Total averages from
+other lines are about L185,000, to say nothing of the pilgrims from
+Tunis, Tripoli, on their pilgrimages to Medinah and Mecca. $5,000 to
+$8,000 is saved on this route of travel to the merchants from England
+to India. The depth of this canal in every part is twenty-six feet.
+Steam is supplanting the use of sails, for the Red Sea offers no
+exceptional difficulties to steamers. No vessel would require more than
+her sails, for the wind blows strong and steady during nine months of
+the year.
+
+The opening celebration of the canal by the viceroy was regal. An opera
+house, theatre and circus were constructed in Cairo; gas was introduced
+into the city of the Mameluke Caliphs; Ezhekiah plaza was renovated in a
+manner that ten years before would have been thought impossible; the
+streets were laid out and flanked by granite and freestone curbing, and
+sidewalks laid with massive flagstone; railway stations renovated and
+the streets leading to it improved, so that on first introduction a
+stranger would be favorably impressed. The viceroy's palaces were
+repainted and every hotel in Cairo was engaged for the guests of the
+Khedive, to feed them and lodge them at 48 shillings per day per capita;
+all carriages and cabs free and at their disposal, the cost of
+entertainment was $2,000,000. Light houses were erected at Bitter Lake,
+and electric lights of great power at Port Said. Ismalia, the center
+part of the Suez canal, is on Lake Tismah; it was filled with water from
+the Mediterranean, November, 1862, through the canal the average depth
+was nineteen feet. Ismalia stands at the confluence of three canals;
+the Maritime, Sweet Water from Suez to Ismalia, and the canal from
+Zazazed to Ismalia, which runs through Ancient Goshen, in whose confines
+dwelt the children of Israel 400 years.
+
+"The harbor of Suez roadbeds was found to afford anchorage for 500
+ships, its depth being from sixteen to twenty-four feet, bottomed with
+soft mud. In 1858 the canal company chose for its president M. Ferdinand
+de Lesseps. In 1859 the work was commenced. Mohammed Said Pasha of Egypt
+took 177,642 shares. In 1863 Said Pasha died and Ismail, son of Ibrahim,
+son of Mohammed Ali, succeeded to the vice-royalty of Egypt. England was
+jealous of the concession to France. The sultan wavered, but Napoleon
+III. had his eye on him, and he was frightened out of his intended
+course. Ismail broke his contract with the canal company and would
+furnish no fellahs. Napoleon III. came to the rescue of De Lesseps. A
+committee composed equally of French and Egyptians, was called by
+Napoleon and declared in favor of the company to the amount of
+L3,600,000, to be payable in installments in fifteen years."
+
+De Lesseps, long calumniated, individually persevered against
+disadvantages in the undertaking, until finally (November 17, 1869) he
+exhibits with worthy pride his mighty achievement to the civilized
+globe, represented by crowned heads and dignitaries of all countries,
+monarchial and republican.
+
+During our stay of twenty-four hours, or even less time, in Ismalia, we
+visited the home De Lesseps occupied during his sojourn here. It was
+within an enclosure where beautiful trees overshadowed the house and it
+looked lonely and forsaken. We also went to the house or palace which
+the Viceroy had built for himself. Dogs formidably guarded the entrance.
+We did not tarry long, but my brother and I wandered far enough into the
+sands of the desert to satisfy all our longings forevermore. The canal
+was built by the French, but the English bought most of the stock and
+have control of it, although it runs through Egyptian territory. From
+the inhospitable Hotel Victoria we rode on a tramway to the depot, where
+rather a poor train of cars awaited us, conveying us for miles through
+the desert sands, suddenly merging into plains and reaching Cairo at
+6:00 p. m., the 22nd of December. Little by little the plain becomes
+less green as we approach the Egyptian capital; the valley contracted
+and the pyramids appear roseate beneath the rays of the setting sun. On
+the right, through the palm trees, against the yellow tones of the
+Lybian desert, are the heights of Mokattam, with the citadel and the
+mosques of Mahomet Ali, the dome of which shines brilliantly between two
+tapering minarets. A forest of minarets and white walls and we have
+arrived amid deafening cries of the cabmen and the running omnibuses for
+the different hotels. My brown "Cheap Jack" purchased in Bombay to
+carry a steamer rug which I had bought there again proved a white
+elephant, but after many gestures it is transferred by a porter to
+Shephard's Hotel. Crowds stand waiting for rooms to be allotted them,
+and as good luck has so far followed me both on steamers and at hotels,
+I find myself in a brief time nicely ensconced in a sunny room. We
+hasten to make ready for dinner, and are most happy to be seated
+alongside of Mrs. John A. Logan and her party of four young ladies and
+Doctor B., who heads the table and proves himself a most fitting
+decoration. The salon is crowded, and at one end on a stage is stationed
+a band of native musicians, male and female, with European musical
+instruments upon which the latest opera airs were played. It is
+customary after dinner is served to join the immense crowd that
+promenades or is seated, according to choice, in the corridors and
+exchange of the building. There tiny cups of coffee with brandy,
+absinthe and cigarettes are offered by the coolies in picturesque dress.
+Ladies, as well as men, partook freely, handling the cigarette with an
+air of nonchalance which bespoke its frequent use. It seemed that people
+from every nation and every tribe were assembled there. The air became
+dense, and it has been truly said that nowhere else than in Shephard's
+Hotel can such a transformation scene be witnessed. Many of my own
+neighbors from Chicago were here. We met our Japanese colonel again. He
+had just returned from the Nile trip. He walked with the assurance of a
+man who had won laurels and was wearing them. I was glad to meet him, as
+our close proximity at the table on the steamers promoted a good feeling
+between us. Cairo is a winter resort for English, Arabians, Swedes and
+in fact the climate attracts from all over the world. The ladies who are
+there for the season make as great a display of fine clothes as we see
+in our own drawing rooms at home; in fact, the display of jewels is
+regal. But of this the traveler wearies, as our days are so busy; we
+willingly retire early to restore nature's wasted powers. One old lady
+from Wales sat with her gouty feet on a cushion, to which you were
+oblivious, for she was so bejewelled. She was an Egyptologist, she told
+me. I found her an agreeable woman, but fond of display. I apologized
+for my Quaker-like garb, explaining to her why I did not feel at ease in
+such a crowd in my quiet silk gown; that I had only a steamer trunk with
+me, and while its contents might ordinarily have passed muster, the
+piling on top of them--a lot of "Benares brass"--had crushed what little
+stiffness my balloon sleeves had once maintained. She scanned me closely
+and, with a confidential air, whispered: "You are a good
+conversationalist, anyhow, so never mind." I really began to feel a
+sense of inflation, and looked to see my sleeves puff up.
+
+The poor villages of Egypt, a collection of dilapidated houses built of
+clay, baked by the burning sun and roofed with dry sorghum leaves, were
+scattered here and there. Here are seen cafes built of loam and straw
+and rickety planks upon which exhausted beggars sleep in sordid rags,
+where poor peasants devour a doura cake and drink a cup of coffee; women
+in long, blue gowns, carrying water in heavy clay pitchers; camels
+loaded with sugar-cane; asses bending beneath bulky bags of rice; heron,
+plover and white pigeons; Pharaoh's chickens hover overhead, watching
+with piercing eyes their prey; pelicans amid the Papyrus, a blue lotus,
+a plant dear to the Pharaohs, which one finds everywhere engraved on the
+walls of their temples; dusky girls with long, slender hands and
+tapering fingers, the nails reddened with Henna, holding a corner of
+their garment between their teeth to hide their faces and pushing flocks
+of turkeys before them. They walk slowly, gazing frankly, while the
+copper bangles clank gently on their delicately moulded ankles.
+
+The population of Cairo in 1895 was about 350,000. The Khedive lives
+with his wife and family at the Palace of Ismalia, near the Nile bridge.
+He is a strict monogamist, loyal in his married life and detests slavery
+as much as polygamy. All his attendants are paid wages. He is said to
+rise at 4:00 or 5:00 a. m., eats no breakfast, exercises two hours, and
+between seven and eight o'clock drives in state to Abdin Palace, which
+is about a half mile from Ismalia, his home. Abdin is the usual place
+for receptions and ceremonial visits. Here the Khedive spends the day,
+transacting various business, seeing ministers, reading letters and
+telegrams and talking with his courtiers. At 5:00 p. m. he drives again
+with his guard, preceded by his athletic sais about forty feet in
+advance, while in his victoria sits always some companion beside him.
+These sais attract much attention, so very graceful are they in
+appearance. Their white Turkish trousers, their gold embroidered bolero
+jacket, with bright, oriental sashes and a cap of bright color that sets
+off their fine features and well-shaped head. They are very fleet, but
+we were told that their earthly race is soon run, the exercise being too
+violent. We take donkeys to visit the bazaars. There is a change of
+temperature, about 60 deg. Fah., but the attempt made to keep our seat
+on our lively animals brought out the perspiration, as this was our
+maiden effort. The name of the present Khedive is Lewfak (1895). On a
+recent occasion he was asked: "What would be the effect on the harem if
+the slaves and eunuchs were no longer on guard?" He replied: "The women
+would rush into all sorts of license." He agreed that education was the
+one thing needful, and in accordance with his convictions has started a
+high school for girls, at his own expense. The Mussulman women's morals
+are very low; their influence on the children of the harem is most
+deplorable. The Ezbekiah Garden confronts us nearby the hotel. It was
+formerly a lake surrounded by trees and habitations. At the present,
+after many changes, it is of rectangular form, with corners cut off,
+surrounded by an iron railing. A basin with swan, and carefully sanded
+paths with strange trees brought from the interior of Africa is a
+beautiful sight. The limpid blue sky and the rays of the magnificent
+eastern sun makes it an attractive place to linger, particularly so at
+4:00 p. m., when a military band performs its European repertoire. Beer
+shops, restaurants and photographic pavilions are installed in and near
+this garden; veiled women, men in silk gowns of various colors, mostly
+blues, roam about with the most perfect ease. Beautiful Egyptian tents
+were erected for a bazaar while we were there. No one can appreciate,
+without seeing their effective display, made of sailcloth, with red,
+yellow and blue calico in plain colors, appliqued on in strange
+hieroglyphic designs. Rugs were on the ground and tapestries were used
+as portieres, while the Turk or Egyptian sat in the doorway, apparently
+indifferent to the passerby. To visit Heliopolis, we took a victoria and
+an expert dragoman. We passed the viceroy's palace, with its lane of
+lemon trees and the well cultivated plain of Metarrah, covered with
+gardens. We stop at the virgin's tree, where Mary and the child rested
+in their flight to Egypt. This, with the field around it, is watered by
+a sakieh, which draws sweet and refreshing water from the bottom of a
+well. With the cooling draught, we are presented with a tiny bunch of
+flowers, for which we return a few piasters. A paling surrounds Mary's
+Sycamore, under whose shade, tradition says, she washed the infant's
+clothes, and that wherever a drop of water fell a Balsam tree sprang up.
+All that remains of Heliopolis, the city of the sun, is the obelisk of
+Usertesan. Heliopolis is the On of the Hebrews. It was here the Bennonz,
+Phoenix, the fabled bird, with its gold and crimson plumage, without a
+mate, came from Arabia every five hundred years to expire, and to be
+reborn of its own ashes on the altar of the sun.
+
+I left my companion in the victoria, and wended my way alone to the
+obelisk, not far distant. It may be he preferred to contemplate on
+Heliopolis' past glory, as he was fresh from Yale's classic shade, and
+deep, no doubt, in its lore, rather than touch its hieroglyphics. To see
+the bees so thickly settled there was of little satisfaction, but what
+were we there for if not to touch, taste and handle? The climatic
+effects will preserve this wonderful monument for ages, while their
+consorts on the Thames and in New York Central Park already show signs
+of decay.
+
+The ostrich farm was a more enlivening scene. One thousand of these
+ugly, vicious birds were kept in an enclosure, the fence surrounding
+them being so high we were obliged to seek an elevation from which we
+could look down upon them. They are most ungainly, but their strut is
+indicative of vanity. To probe them, as some did through an opening in
+the gateway, was to arouse their wrath, and the warning was soon given
+to desist, by the care-keepers. Many of the eggs were emptied of their
+contents and for sale. Throughout the land morgues are crumbling to
+ruins, the Arab seemingly powerless to repair them, or to build new
+ones. Cairo is built from the ruins of Heliopolis and Memphis.
+
+To return to Cairo by the Kooha road is to meet at 5:00 p. m. the
+Khedive and suite on their return from Abdin palace. It is said the
+Khedive is never seen to smile; we can testify that he did not smile on
+us, although we rode parallel with him that day. The tramp of his
+attendant cavalry always attracts a crowd. We see, as we drive along,
+the donkeys roll with their saddles in the sand; swarms of naked soiled
+children, with their deafening yell, increase the clamor made by the
+native pipe seller and blower. These are made of bamboo, and, when
+properly handled, give out a noise peculiar to those people.
+Water-sellers, with filled goatskins on their shoulders, leather aprons
+to their knees, striking their copper goblets one against the other,
+richly caparisoned mules, bearing venerable Mohammedan priests, whose
+gowns are kissed as they go by--all these and more join this medley in
+human or animal form. Traffic is suddenly stopped by a long string of
+camels coming, laden with thick pieces of timber, rugged stones or
+enormous bales of merchandise. They walk silently in the dust with long
+strides, waving to and fro, exhaling an insupportable odor. Their heavy,
+incommodious cargoes strike right and left, breaking everything before
+them. Woe betide the pedestrian, who does not anticipate their coming,
+and prepare to skip. These caravans are only momentary disturbances,
+then all is righted till another passes. Through all this pandemonium we
+drive to the tombs of the Caliphs, the independent sovereigns of Egypt
+from the ninth to the twelfth century. In the face of the ruins
+crumbling slowly beneath the action of centuries, one feels an
+unutterable melancholy. Mosque of El Achraf-ynal El Ghours is near the
+tombs of the Caliphs, their courts are full of rubbish and plants and
+brambles, with its fountains for ablutions in ruins. These mosques
+contain tombs and stone mausoleums. We pass out into a dilapidated
+village of low mud houses, few shops, with fruits to sell, camels lying
+down, asses and tattered children and old men. We ascend not far away
+the staircase with disjointed steps, the mosque of Karl Bey. The
+interior court, open to all elements, is paved with marble mosaics. The
+ceiling of the mosque is carved, painted and gilded. The rose windows,
+cut in massive stone, is in great perfection, but all is crumbling, like
+everything else in the east.
+
+The tombs of the Caliphs we overlook from the citadel, where we listen
+to the guide who relates the daring feats of the Mamelukes. To see the
+sun set from this point is one of the pleasures that Cairo affords. Here
+is a fortress, where Ramises II detained his Assyrian captives, when the
+Roman legion under Caesar held Egypt. The vile, stuffy smells that greet
+you on entering are appalling, and the ragged children eaten up by
+vermin, and afflicted by sore eyes rub against you. You enter the Coptic
+church of the Virgin Mary; partitions in woodwork separate three naves.
+Mother of pearl and ivory inlaid work decorate the interior, but it was
+so dark the beauties were lost to me, but we are not insensible to the
+vile uncleanliness, for that is paramount. We are taken to the banks of
+the Nile, shown the ancient Nile meter, and the exact spot where Moses
+was found in the bulrushes. From all this we turn with weary steps to
+the university, where scholars from the extreme north, south, and those
+who scarcely know from whence they came, are here to study the four
+rites taught from the Koran. They board at the Mosque and also receive a
+small allowance and oil for their lamps. Gathered together in circles,
+holding their tablets in their hands, lying or sitting on their mats
+covering the ground, they learn by heart verses from the Koran, which
+they recite aloud in a drawling voice, swinging the body, as is peculiar
+to the Orientals. A special fund is raised from pious fanatics for the
+support of the blind who become scholars, no less fanatic than their
+teachers.
+
+Another day for the museums at Boulah to be taken before, and after
+going up the Nile. From its terrace the views are splendid. The
+supporting walls bathe in the Nile, where multitudes of vessels lie side
+by side. Across the desert come caravans from Abyssinia, with coffee and
+incense from Arabia; pearls, precious stones, cassimeres and silks from
+India.
+
+In dahabehis from Esneh come ivories, ostrich feathers, acacia gum,
+nitre from Kenner, boats loaded with pottery of porous earth, in which
+to keep the water of the Nile in amphorae (large earthen jugs) in all
+sizes. Edfou sends its pipes, vases of red clay and black. Barges filled
+with indigo, cotton and barley, dahabehis of carpets and woolen stuffs
+with flagons of rose water. From the North come rice, maize and Syrian
+tobacco; draperies from Aleppo, Smyrna and Damascus; dried grapes from
+the mountains of Karamania; soap from the isles of the Archipelagos, and
+in the midst of all this enterprise, donkey boys yell, and camels make
+their unearthly cry, while I, who am mounted on a donkey, scarcely look
+to the right or left, lest I go over "Abraham Lincoln's" head.
+
+We have left the museum and are on the road leading to Cairo, the Champs
+Elysee of this capital city. Tuesdays and Sundays the gay world is met
+on this thoroughfare. We overlook the port of old Cairo to see all we
+have described, besides dahabehis from Nubia and Soudan with goods and
+passengers. The ferry passing between Bedrashen and old Cairo is full to
+overflowing. Men, women, Bedouin negroes, asses, camels overburdened
+with merchandise, cages of fowls, and fruit in kouffas; people
+gesticulating and grumbling in an inconceivable manner--all this
+confusion we pass through to reach our hotel to dream of our journey to
+the pyramids the following day. Our dragoman secures an open carriage
+that seats four persons, besides the coachman and himself on the
+coachmen's seat. We are told that twenty years were consumed in building
+the great pyramid, costing 600 talents (the Hebrew weight 94 lbs.) in
+Hebrew money; 100,000 men were employed on the works, and were changed
+every three months. They say nothing changes in the valley of the Nile;
+the Fellah has always bent the spine to the stick. Lives innumerable
+were sacrificed by the Pharaohs in building for themselves, and others,
+tombs that time could not change, and where thieves could not break
+through and steal. How all earthly plans are frustrated. Now the hidden
+places of the pyramids are laid bare. The museum at Boulah contains the
+mummied forms of the builders, and the entrances to their sepulchres
+are open to bats and men. I did not ascend the pyramids farther than to
+look into these excavations. This effort was most exhausting, even when
+assisted by these athletic Arabs, and the demand for backsheesh was
+overpowering. The sheik, under whose patronage these coolies work,
+stands looking on without intervention until your dragoman is forced to
+appeal to him to quell the disturbance, but we could see that he berated
+those who were delinquent in making their demands good. The sphinx near
+by can be reached either by camels, who stand in readiness to convey
+you, or you can walk. We prefer the latter rather than to have another
+bombardment for backsheesh, but waiving, as we did, all assistance but
+our dragoman, we were followed by these wretched persecutors. There is
+in this colossal figure a dignity--an air of mystery. It is with
+difficulty that the sands of the desert are kept from enveloping it, but
+the climatic effect is wonderful; it seems destined for time and
+eternity.
+
+Friday is the day for religious service with the howling dervishes. One
+never cares for a repetition. Those who take active part in the ceremony
+are men whose regular features are set off by a tall, round,
+sugar-loafed hat, surrounded at its base with a turban wound very tight,
+clothed in long, flowing gowns, very full, open in front. A second gown
+underneath of mauve silk shows a blue jacket and orange-colored
+trousers. One carries a flute, and now and then a soft, ethereal note is
+heard. Around this musician are others with their instruments. In a
+semi-circle, with arms falling at their sides, stand at least thirty
+dervishes, their long gowns of different colors fastened tight around
+their waists with a red silk sash, red, white and green turbans, and
+linen or woolen caps. Their hair is of extraordinary length, dyed with
+henna, and falling to their knees. At a signal from their leader, all
+uncover their heads at the same moment, and, as they bend balancing
+themselves slowly at first, with each jerk pronouncing the word "Allah!"
+This swinging motion becomes by degrees rapid; voices burst out; one
+hears the piercing note of the flute, and the ring of the cymbals. The
+sepulchral roll of the Dara-bonkas make the flesh creep, and finally
+ends in a delirious exaltation.--They assume frightful contortions;
+their bodies bend; the hair whips the air and the cry of "Allah! Allah!"
+penetrates bone and marrow. After a while their ways become more
+regular, voices clearer, and they seem again to possess their faculties.
+
+The great artery of trade cuts bazaar quarters into the old Frank
+quarters where east and west mixes. Living side by side, the occupants
+of these shops speak, when opening the shutters in the morning, and when
+closing them in the evening, and frequently offer each other tea and
+cigarettes through the day, and that terminates all connection. A Babel
+street, dealers in French novelties; an American dentist; a barber, a
+Jewish money changer side by side, while on foot in the roadway divers
+people from diverse nations throng--few groups but a constant movement.
+Among them are loaded camels, people on horses, donkeys, mules,
+victorias drawn by Arab steeds always on the trot. The guards driving to
+one side the crowd by blows in the face with their sticks, water
+carriers, soldiers, in fact, everybody, hustling, bustling in search of
+something. In the bazaar of Khan Khabiel we found copper utensils of all
+forms and sizes, coffee pots, perfume burners, ewers, chandeliers for
+mosques, Persian caskets chiseled to perfection, articles of rhinoceros
+horn, Circassian and Saracen steel armor, inlaid with gold, tables of
+mother of pearl and ivory. A dealer in old clothes sat at the angle of
+the street playing a game of chance with his neighbor. We see Koran
+letters in green on black ground hung in black frames standing against
+the wall, while the owner sits dreaming near by, apparently deriving
+much comfort from his kief. The streets are narrow, often hedged from
+houses by a trellis work, fashioned from palm leaves. The sun penetrates
+in spots. Through these apertures one sees the clear blue sky and black
+kites, vultures and hawks describing circles, and at intervals wild
+geese from the north go flying by. The roads are covered with dust
+which, when it rains, becomes almost impassable. We see coming towards
+us women accompanied by slave bathing attendants, going to a public
+bath house reserved for females. They meet by appointment, burn perfumed
+aloes, etc., send for singers and treat themselves to pastry and sweets.
+
+The roofs of carpet bazaars, half covered with mats and shreds of cloth,
+permit the soft light to filter through, and upon the sacred prayer rug
+throws a mellowed light. Piles of camels' bags, some brilliant in color,
+with mountains of rugs from all parts of the east; those of the velvety
+silken texture with blended colors come from Persia. A coarser kind of
+many stripes comes from Rabah, Tunis and Kurdistan. Long squares with
+ground of soft blue are used by the Mohammedans in their devotion and
+are made in Smyrna and Bokhara. The gem polisher sits within the doorway
+of his shop, with wheels and implements, whereon he perfects his work.
+We are interested in the Persian turquoise, the most desirable to be
+purchased. We buy, we think, flawless ones of exquisite shades.
+
+The Ramhadin, or season of fasting, by the Moslems, continues one month,
+and during that time they neither taste nor smell food or tobacco
+between sunrise and sunset. After this vile durance, we were told, their
+appetites can scarcely be appeased, nor their tempers curbed.
+
+The weddings in December and January are in rule and, by applying for an
+invitation, your dragoman as a great favor to his lady, can and will
+obtain one or more, for which you must compensate him, besides
+defraying all expenses, and giving flowers and presents. You must expect
+but little less expenditure than at our own weddings in our own country,
+and but little to repay you. On the evening of the 24th of December
+(1895), Christmas trees were on exhibition at the hotel for the benefit
+of the guests; the ladies only received presents. The room was most
+brilliant with electric lights and three large trees most artistically
+decorated with bright balls, cornucopias and trinkets. A card was given
+each lady and the number thereon drew a prize. My first was a box of
+candy and a small toilet article. Not eating candy, I presented both
+articles and asked Mr. Bailey, our host, for another chance, which drew
+me a white satin sofa cushion cover. For a time we almost forgot we were
+so far from home. There were so many familiar faces gathered around
+those trees, besides no limit to others who believed that the "Coming of
+Christ" meant good gifts to men. The 30th of December my brother and his
+family left me to return to America. I was over-persuaded to go up the
+Nile, a trip I most reluctantly made. As I felt the depression of the
+Egyptian atmosphere, added to my depressed condition from the medicine
+taken (prescribed by a missionary doctor on board the steamer "Pekin")
+throughout my Indian journey that I was unfit to travel any longer--and
+I had no desire to die so far from home--the pressure against my own
+judgment outweighed in the balance, and I left Cairo on the steamer
+"Ramises III" at 9:15 o'clock a. m. December 31st, 1895. The room
+assigned to me by Thomas Cook & Co. was No. 63, on the upper deck. I had
+no room mate, much to my joy. This was my "mascot" from the time I
+boarded the steamer at Vancouver--with but one exception, and that was
+on the steamer "Pekin" from Columbo to Calcutta where I had a dear old
+lady from Australia (Mrs. Champion) share my cabin. We had seventy
+first-class passengers. Among them were Mrs. John A. Logan, Dr. B., of
+Brooklyn, Miss Paul, Miss Koon and Miss Dousman, Mr. and Mrs. George
+Hale and his sister, Mrs. Mathews, Conan Doyle, wife and sister, and
+from England we had the knighted organist of Westminster Abbey and Lady
+Campbell and daughter, while others I could mention to whom I became
+attached were Mrs. Allis and daughter, of Milwaukee, and Mrs. Wilbur and
+daughter, from Flatbush, Long Island. I must not fail to speak of Mr.
+Osterburg, the Swedish consul in Cairo, who made himself most agreeable.
+Our dragomen were Richard and Claudius, the former a Syrian, the latter
+I saw less of, but some of the passengers, who became interested in him,
+visited in person his little wife, about fourteen years old, who had a
+mud hut in the vicinity of one of the stopping places on the Nile.
+
+After lunch was served on our first day out we made our first landing at
+Bedrashead, site of Memphis and Sakkarah, where we saw the colossal
+statue of Ramises II, lying prostrate, in readiness to be transferred to
+some less favored spot. I had a fine mount, and Richard stuck close to
+"my lady" (you must remember that much respect is paid to the aged in
+the Orient). The temple of Ptah, the step pyramid, pyramid of Teta,
+pyramid of Pepi 1st, and the Ape's Mausoleum, were shown us. This last
+was most interesting. Magnesium lights of the guides enabled us to
+distinguish in these dark, subterranean passages, where 3,700 years ago,
+naked foot-prints left on layers of sand, placed in the corners of these
+mortuary chambers, testify to a primitive appearance. Here people made
+superhuman effort to hide their burial places for all ages to come, to
+prevent rude hands from pulling their bones apart until, according to
+their religion, their souls would again return to their well preserved
+bodies--to enjoy Nirvana.
+
+We saw the tomb of "Thi," Necropolis of Saharah; also Marrek's house. To
+the latter is due much credit for his perseverance in unearthing and
+protecting the contents of these buried ruins. My first donkey ride was
+a success, not that I enjoyed it, but owing to a most considerate donkey
+boy, who walked at the side of the beast (instead of the rear) and
+allowed me to hold in my left hand the reins and my right arm around his
+swarthy neck. Thus, I took all those excursions on the Nile without an
+accident, till I gave myself the title of "the lady of a fond embrace,"
+while others, more daring and perhaps more dainty of touch, were more
+than once thrown over the donkey's head, suffering from bruises that
+took more than a day to heal. Immediately on reaching the steamer, at
+4:30 p. m., tea was served on deck. I was more than weary and so sore I
+could scarcely taste of my dinner, but, thanks to a kind Providence, I
+was by morning on deck, but that day we made no excursions. The
+following day we landed at Beni-Hassan, visiting the Rock Tombs,
+consisting of chambers, shaft and corridors, where the mummies were once
+placed, but now all are swept and garnished. All that remains to tell
+the tale, are the writings and sculpturing on the walls. The scribe has
+taken precaution that he who runs may read. The series of bas-reliefs is
+a biography in stone with illustrations. The entire life of a man is
+written there. I must quote from a writer a few lines that have
+impressed me: "It is said that man's head becomes smaller every day, his
+muscle and chest enlarged; animal strength develops at the expense of
+the brain, which diminishes in proportion. The law of the strongest is
+the law of human species, one-half of which is seeking to destroy the
+other." These scenes depicted on the crumbling ruins, enriched by color,
+are strikingly realistic, built partly during the life time, and often
+after the death of the person. These give the best possible insight
+into the life of the Egyptians of that period. From past ages to the
+present hour are men building their own monuments, immortalizing, if
+possible, their virtues. How well the foundation should be laid, that
+the principles, overlapping each other, may make a fitting example for
+future generations.
+
+There are no new cities built of any magnitude; the new would only
+depopulate the old. From Memphis, reduced to a state of quarry, is built
+Alexandria; from Heliopolis we have Cairo. In passing the limestone
+cliffs we experience cold and wind; the mummied crocodile pits we pass,
+and stop at Aizril. Peddlers besiege the vessel, and the vociferating
+yell was kept up until long after 10:00 p. m., the hour when all lights
+in the cabin are shut off. At Aizul, we buy Nubian veils, which are made
+by embroideries in gold stars on black and white heavy netting, and are
+most becoming when worn by Nubian women. Soudanese embroidery is thrust
+upon us, but to all we turn a deaf ear and again mount donkeys to visit
+the bazaars. It was market day; the roads dusty; long lines of camels
+with their undulating necks and inhuman cry, impeded our way and shocked
+our nerves. What vagueness in the stare of a camel; what great, sad
+eyes; walking slowly with their heavy burdens, urged on by the voice and
+gesture of sober-looking Bedouins, perched upon the beast. Women with
+ravaged features and with soiled garments pass us, with babies seated
+astride of their shoulders; little girls clutching their gowns, with
+leather or silver amulets on their neck or suspended between their eyes;
+the flowing chemise, of crude colors, mostly blue, their heads bound in
+a turban of muslin, their black tresses flying in the wind. The arms of
+these children of the desert are encircled in bracelets, some of which
+we purchased with a few annas. They are gilded and tarnished, perhaps
+from lack of usage. A sad smile seems to lurk on their faces, casting a
+gleam in their dark eyes, and they will follow for a great distance your
+donkey, offering you their poor, little, ragged dolls for a backsheesh;
+the very touch of them would be pollution. You cannot resist, if an anna
+is within reach, of throwing it to them and receiving in return a
+glimpse of their pearly teeth between their red lips in their attempts
+at a smile. The Arab men, wrapped in their burnoose, look on
+mechanically, turning their rosewood beads in their hands. Their yellow
+dogs, with pointed muzzles, prowl around restlessly, as if they would
+cry out with joy if a bone was thrown them. On passing through the
+bazaars I spied a Nubian veil, and to inspect it within a doorway, I was
+obliged to dismount; not being satisfied with work or quality, I
+attempted to remount, with the assistance of my diminutive donkey boy,
+but alas, we were not equal to the feat; when, from a distance, came a
+red coat, an English soldier, who threw me on the saddle and demanded a
+backsheesh. Is begging contagious, or is their need so great? Over the
+tranquil scenes creep the cold shadows of night, with their unhealthy,
+impenetrable gloom; lights of the steamer are extinguished; the water
+shadoufs, with lean bullocks for their motive power, with hanging
+fetlocks, conducted by a little fellahin, gave a sharp, hollow, grinding
+sound as the brake wheels were made to revolve. These brake wheels set
+others in motion, which in their turn start still others at the
+extremity of the spokes on the water circles, where jars of baked clay
+were fastened with cords made of palm fiber. The latter, in their
+constant rotation, scooped up water, pouring it into basins, from which
+ran gutters, dug at right angles in the earth, and spread like silver
+threads through this thirsty land. These shadoufs are placed at
+intervals along the Nile and from its beneficent waters the desert is
+made to bloom as the rose.
+
+The early mornings are bright, but cold. As we proceed up the Nile the
+noonday sun feels uncomfortable, but invariably the nights are cold.
+Then it is that the awnings are closely drawn around the upper deck,
+where a piano, tables and chairs are placed for the pleasure and
+convenience of the guests, while flags of different nations brighten and
+enliven the scene, festooned on the canvas that wraps us in from the
+prevailing miasma. An evening on the Nile steamer may not be irksome,
+although our steamer ties up at nightfall. The lack of motion is made up
+by music and dancing and pleasant intercourse. A few moments after
+dinner I would retire to the saloon or library room, where pens and
+paper were provided for the guests. There I would jot down in my journal
+my transactions of the day and write home if we were within postal
+quarters. We never made excursions on the Sabbath day; our trips were so
+arranged by Cook, who had our boat under his rules, that all who cared
+for rest might enjoy it. We disembarked at Dendarah, where we spent two
+hours in the early morning. As we recall these days on the Nile, with
+Richard in his Oriental robes of lovely colors, fully conscious of his
+good looks, taking his position between the extended tables of the
+dining room at the close of the meal and there make known the plan for
+the next day's excursion. "Ladies and Gentlemen!" was generally followed
+by an audible smile, the guests knowing full well what was to
+follow--breakfast at the early hour of seven, a ride from five to
+fifteen miles either by donkey or chair, with a set speech when we
+arrived at tombs or temples; but we had come to see, why not muster up
+courage for still another prolonged agony? I found books in the library,
+most entertaining when off duty, by Mrs. Edwards and Charles Dudley
+Warner, together with the book furnished by Cook to each purchaser of a
+passage ticket. This attempt to post up on what I saw, and what was yet
+in store for me, precluded much sociability, of which I am fully aware
+with such pleasant people as we had on board, was my loss. I denied
+myself much, but I was unable to cope with both to any great extent, but
+I shall long recall with pleasure the few hours I gave myself in this
+delightful recreation.
+
+Our arrival at Luxor by sunset was well timed. The beautiful rays of the
+departing god seemed to throw over all the surroundings a halo. We knew
+an early breakfast meant early to bed, which command I was not slow in
+obeying. At 9:00 a. m. we took donkeys for Karnak, passing through the
+village on a market day, where each man squatted before his salable
+articles spread upon the ground under the shade of some umbrageous tree.
+Through a long road, lined at intervals, were the remains of the Sphinx,
+of which we have so often read. The ruins are most imposing, excavations
+were still being made. The Nile's inundations are fast making inroads,
+undermining the foundations, especially at Luxor, which temple is
+located so near the bank. We linger and gaze on the stupendous work,
+even in its crumbling, tottering condition it is one of the wonders of
+the age. We find the Scarabaeus are bought here to an advantage. The
+Arabs, however, have no scruples in selling false beetles for the
+genuine ones that are sometimes taken from the tombs in excavating. They
+are becoming more and more rare. Mummies, so diminutive, made of metal
+or plaster, Stela, a small column, having neither base or capital, which
+are sold as the genuine antique, is manufactured almost within sight.
+One of the amusing scenes on shipboard is to see purchasers comparing
+these articles; their ignorance of their value is laughable. The beetle,
+or Scarabaeus, is a symbol with this ancient people of "eternal
+duration." We are told it lays its eggs near the shores of the Nile,
+afterwards to roll them through the dust and sand to a safe place of
+deposit, thus providing for a perpetuation of their species. I am not an
+admirer of the beetle, consequently bought no reminders of the bug. I
+did buy here a string of red cornelian beads, not for their value but as
+good specimens. The trip to the tombs of the kings, most laborious of
+all, I declined to take. I did not feel I was able, but by remaining
+alone on board of the steamer was like choosing between two evils. The
+days when the vessel is deserted the crew go through a systematic house
+cleaning process. Truly, there is not a dry place for the sole of your
+foot. My only safety was in bed, but even there intrusions were
+frequent. Like all Oriental workmen, they sway the body and keep time to
+the scrub brush and broom with their voices, in a monotonous wail of
+Allah! Allah! After some six to eight hours it grows a trifle irksome,
+as it is incessant, so that I quite resolved before the day was over
+that tombs were pleasant places to visit and donkeys delightful animals
+upon which to ride. When a half-hour's ride was suggested, the next day,
+to the temple of "Rameses the Great" and tomb known as "35," I did not
+remain on deck, but on the contrary wandered through the Judgment Hall
+of Osiris, and through the temple of Medinah Kaboo; also inspected a
+small temple of "Thotmas III," passing the "Colons" on our way to the
+small boats, to which we were carried through the water in the arms of
+natives. We lay at Luxor three days, leaving at 11:00 a. m. the fourth
+morning after our arrival. We stopped at Esneh, where another temple was
+on exhibition, and proceeded to Edfoo, where we tied up for the night.
+There we saw really a wonderful temple, fresh from the hands of the
+excavators. On the 12th of January we arrived at Assouan, at 4:00 p. m.,
+and small boats were brought alongside the steamer for those who wished
+to visit the "Elephantine caves." Not to see it would have been just the
+thing you should not have missed. And again we buckled on the armor and
+struck out direct from the shoulder. The sail around the island was an
+agreeable pastime, but the Arabs clamoring for backsheesh and for the
+sale of their beads, were beyond human endurance. I felt almost
+murderous. I bought a few strings of beads, and for days, whenever I
+touched them, each one seemed to cry aloud: backsheesh! backsheesh! We
+went from Annan to Philae by train; and what a train! No provision
+whatever for the comfort of the traveler. If by chance a seat was given
+you, you were in luck; if none was secured, "you beat the bush" all the
+way through the desert sands. The distance is not great. In a half or
+three-quarters of an hour we are on the spot which artists have sought
+and many have longed for and died without the sight. We lunch in among
+the ruins, and are then led into the interior of the temple as it now
+stands, falling and fallen. Crowds of little Arab children offer their
+services as guides, and I recall, with a sense of pathetic pleasure, Mr.
+George Hale, with his crown of grey hair, being led by one of these
+little girls. "December and May"--old age and infancy. She was not over
+five years old, poorly clad, with her silver amulet on a leather string
+around her neck, and barefooted. In her hand she carried a Nile fly
+brush, with which she would gently attempt to brush off from Mr. Hale
+any invader, and in the same breath would whisk it with a vengeance in
+the face of any of her comrades who sought to take her charge from her.
+It was an amusing scene. Many purchase from these children their
+amulet. I could but wonder if they were punished on returning to their
+homes for having parted with their talisman, which are religiously
+placed upon them in childhood. We now return to our boats. We are to
+skirt the first cataract of the Nile. We are divided into groups, and
+small boats are provided for each party. With fear and trembling we
+embark, but confiding in the Arab pilot, who seldom fails in the work
+assigned him, we soon regain our equilibrium. To me it was not as
+perilous as the descent of Lachine Rapids, in the St. Lawrence River,
+nor more exciting. That everlasting wail of Allah! Allah! was kept up
+until we landed near our Rameses III, and until we had filled well the
+bag with piasters that was handed around. We were not able to disembark.
+As I hastened alone to the gang plank of our river home, I saw Mrs. John
+A. Logan, whose boat had preceded ours, with her head of crowning glory,
+stretched from the low window of her cabin and in her hand was the "Red,
+white and blue" unfurled to the Nile zephyrs. I thought of Barbara
+Frietchie, and exclaimed: "Take in your flag!" That night there was a
+jollification on board, for the day following we were to begin our
+descent of the Nile. We took on board many passengers who had gone up on
+the previous trip of the Rameses III, and gone beyond to the second and
+third cataract and had returned to Assuan for the downward trip. Among
+these were the widow of Major General Jed Baxter, of Washington, D. C.,
+and also Mrs. Stroud, of Philadelphia. Mrs. Logan brought Mrs. Baxter to
+me, and introduced her. "Can this be my Mrs. Baxter?" I said, and she
+replied: "And this my Mrs. Hunt, of whom dear Senator Morrill has so
+often spoken?"
+
+We were mutually bound together by one common friend, who had, by his
+praise, made us friends without ever having met before. We were no
+longer strangers. We stopped again at Luxor. There I had time, before
+the night shades gathered around us, to call at the hotel Luxor, where a
+gentleman with an attack of malarial fever had been transferred on our
+upward trip. His wife and daughter I had become much interested in. They
+were from the state of Maine, and we had mutual friends. They were glad
+to see me again, and were feeling most depressed in their isolation, but
+were buoyant with the hope that the husband and father would soon be
+able to be taken back to Cairo. They had been able to secure a trained
+nurse, and a good physician. I think Luxor is a military post. Many of
+the passengers improved the shining hours in revisiting the bazaars and
+by moonlight the gay, light-hearted and free among our young folks went
+again to see the ruins of Karnak. We bought many photographs here, which
+were most satisfactory. We next visited Keneh, where the jugs and
+gargoulets are made, for the Nile water. The factories are near by and
+many purchased these porous amphorae, hoping that in their own homes the
+water poured in them might come out as deliciously cool as did the water
+of the Nile.
+
+We stop at Dirneh and Ballianah, but at Abydos we linger longer, where
+we take a seven-mile ride to the temple of Seti, finding on those
+sculptured walls much to admire. We lunched again in the ruins, and
+having no desire to eat, I fed through the iron-barred gate my share to
+the poor, wretched Arab children that swarmed around. I hate to recall
+these poor, down-trodden people. Is life worth living to them? What I
+declined to eat, they devoured with such voraciousness that it almost
+made me hungry. I am told Cook & Co. are regarded by these natives as a
+Godsend. He surely does much towards bringing them in touch with
+humanity. And now a day's rest is to follow this tiresome one, and until
+we reach Assouit we can rest without any rude alarms, which will be at
+least for twenty-four hours. Confusion, worse confounded, was the scene
+at the landing at Assouit. The wharf was piled high with parcels of
+merchandise, the owner of each crying in a deafening voice, the
+surpassing features of their commodities, pushing and pulling each other
+to establish their rights. We dare not pass through this motley crowd to
+mount our donkeys until our dragoman interfered, striking
+indiscriminately right and left with his stick, which too often fell
+upon their heads or backs. We did succeed in examining the rhinoceros
+canes, made of hides, which sold at $5.00 apiece, and of teak wood,
+which, we were told, were inclined to splinter. However, we took our
+chances. There were also embroidered portieres, and draperies, most
+elaborate Soudanese embroideries, specimens of which I gladly possessed
+myself. If the crowd is too threatening, you can barter from the
+steamer's deck. These Arabs are very dexterous; they bundle their goods,
+and with a grace we know not of, throw them up to the deck for
+inspection. Woe betide the unfortunate one who attempts to return the
+articles by the same process, if by mischance the precious bundle falls
+into the water. Sheiks rush in frenzy, and the noise from the crowd
+grows like the roar of a mighty cataract; and in one case of the kind,
+where the party was unlucky in his aim, he was compelled, for the peace
+of the passengers, to pay for the lost articles. I heard among the crowd
+on deck some one exclaim: "This is great fun!" Perhaps it is, but I
+failed to appreciate it.
+
+At 4:00 p. m., the 19th of January, we landed in Cairo, a tired but a
+wiser crowd, and we are not yet through the wilderness. O, for a Moses!
+Why did he not survive the Deluge? Backsheesh from every one of that
+crew. Those who had brushed the dust or sand from your shoes or clothes
+as you flew by them at each landing place; those with shoo-fly or
+brushes, whom we had never encountered during the entire trip, were in
+line for a piaster, to say nothing of the big fees expected by the male
+attendants at table and in your cabin. But greatest of all were the
+expectations of the dragomen, who were most sullen if anything less than
+one or two pound note or gold piece was offered them. It is safe to say
+to go under "Thomas A. Cook & Co.'s auspices up the Nile," you cannot
+get off without paying at least three hundred dollars for a three-weeks'
+excursion. Already, competing companies at reduced prices are
+manifesting themselves, and I heard with perfect satisfaction to their
+patrons, but the Sheiks, they say, are bought up by the "Cook's." How
+much of this is Nile gossip, I did not attempt to fathom. I had made the
+trip; never missed but one excursion, and still being in the body, gave
+thanks that it was finished.
+
+We were again booked for Shephards. What a cosmopolitan crowd gathered
+in the exchange of that hostelry that evening. Many permanent guests for
+the season; many more in a transition condition; many waiting for the
+return of our vessel, as it was the best on the river, to go again on
+that bourne, from which most travelers return. The room allotted me was
+on the ground floor; I think in my weakness I would have accepted it,
+but Mrs. Stroud and Baxter, my patron saints, declared it unfit for me,
+and a cot was placed in a large upper room which had been assigned these
+ladies, and I was forced by them to take the best bed. At the end of
+three days the crowd grew less and accommodations better, and a sunny,
+bright room was given me all to myself. Can such kindness as those
+friends conferred upon me ever be forgotten? Not by me, nor those of the
+name who come after me. One is not apt to forget an "oasis in the
+desert." Having decided to remain in Cairo for at least two weeks, in
+anticipation of meeting a friend who had followed in my wake "around the
+world," I decided to have some repairs made in my wardrobe, such as old
+buttons taken off, new ones in their place; new veils, new gloves, etc.
+All this was done at a little shop near by, kept by an English woman
+named Cole. There Mrs. Baxter accompanied me, and I came out quite
+renewed, as far as my clothes were concerned. Having a spark of life yet
+remaining, and with my usual amount of energy, I was again persuaded to
+go to Jerusalem with a party, rather than to remain for the Bombay
+steamer that was, I supposed, to bring my friend with whom I had agreed
+to return home. When the proposition was made me by Mrs. Logan--I will
+confess, even to my grandsons, to a little irreverence--the very thought
+of more temples to see and more tombs to encounter, was a trifle too
+much for my endurance, and I simply said "No! Not if I expected to meet
+my Lord!" for to tell you the truth, I expected and felt He would come
+and meet me if rest was not soon obtained. But after a week's sojourn in
+Cairo I agreed to join the party and go over to Jerusalem and Damascus
+for a brief stay of ten days. Plans were made with T. Cook & Sons for
+dragomen and provisions, when all were frustrated by quarantine being
+declared. Our only escape from Egypt was to be made by Brindisi and
+Marseilles. All ports of the Turkish dominion were shut off from us on
+account of several cases of cholera which had broken out in Alexandria.
+"To arms" was never before more readily responded to than by the inmates
+of that caravansary. Tickets were secured by those who had not yet
+bought. I had, in purchasing mine at Bombay, bought through to
+Marseilles; luggage was brought forward, big bags, little bags and my
+"Cheap Jack" was much in evidence. Lunch baskets were prepared by the
+hotel for the journey to Ismalia that resembled great wooden bird cages.
+Among those friends we left behind were those destined for the Nile trip
+and a few habitues of Cairo, not easily frightened. With homesick eyes,
+those of our country followed us, and as a parting gift gave us lovely
+bouquets of flowers.
+
+I must, before leaving Cairo, give an account of a large ball given in
+honor of those who had been up the Nile, and those who were awaiting a
+departure thence. It was given by the proprietors of Shepheards. The
+salon was cleared of its tables and the military band assisted the house
+musicians in furnishing music. The crowd was large, but I speak
+truthfully and without exaggeration when I say that American women take
+the palm in dancing. There is a stiffness, a want of gracefulness, in
+those ladies of foreign nations. We were shocked by the innovation of
+the British army officers, with their red coats, and swords dangling at
+their side, which were permissible in this Oriental city, but when their
+spurs were worn, to the detriment of the gauzy draperies of ladies
+participating in the dance, it was a breach we could not overlook.
+
+
+
+
+FROM EGYPT TO FRANCE
+
+
+And now we are in Ismalia, our sailing port. Two steamers are
+momentarily expected; one bound for Brindisi, the other for Marseilles.
+The poor hotel accommodations were emphasized when this avalanche of
+people came down upon them. After baggage was identified and there was
+no room in the inn for many of us, I selected a sofa in the drawing
+room, on which to rest till the signal was given that the "Caledonia"
+was in sight. It was not a bed of roses, but many around me had a worse
+accommodation; but upon it I became half unconscious from sheer
+exhaustion, when a tender hand was laid upon me, and a kind, persuasive
+voice whispered in my ear: "Come with me; there is room for you with
+us." Almost reluctantly I arose and followed Mrs. Logan, who had,
+through her well-known forethought, secured two apartments for herself
+and party, the latter having agreed to double up and give me the extra
+cot in Mrs. Logan's room. We expected surely the cry would come at
+midnight, and we slept with one eye open to sight our steamer's coming.
+It was a cold, moonlight night. The desert's glistening sands were on
+one side of us, the sparkling waters of Lake Tesmah in the Suez Canal
+on the other. There was a bird with a lone, peculiar cry that added
+loneliness to the scene, and when the morning light dawned upon us we
+were still in Ismalia. A most inhospitable breakfast was served us, and
+at nine o'clock came the welcome cry: "Ship ahoy!" The wharf from off
+which these steamers anchored was near to the hotel and a procession of
+yawning pedestrians was soon on its wending way, followed by innumerable
+dragomen, who were still in anticipation of one more backsheesh, and a
+crowd of blear-eyed, frowsy Arab children brought up the rear. Breakfast
+was awaiting us on the good old ship "Caledonia," and a warm welcome
+from Capt. Andrews. My spirits rose, and my traveling friends, Mrs.
+Wilbur and her daughter, soon were on deck, taking in the surroundings.
+We landed at Port Said about 5:00 p. m. I invested my last piaster in an
+olive wood paper cutter. Port Said is said to be the most wicked place
+on earth. As I hailed from Chicago I thought perhaps honors were even.
+We did not go ashore, but got our steamer chairs in readiness for the
+next day, as we were told we would have a choppy sea, and we fully
+realized the truth of the prophecy. Our cabins proved the safe retreat,
+and there I remained until we reached Brindisi, at 6:00 a. m., February
+the 5th. At 5:30 we were called on deck by a visit from the health
+officers, as our vessel hailed from an infected district. All bore the
+inspection and we soon set sail again and landed in Marseilles the 7th
+of February. My baggage was soon O. K.'d, and a cab took me with my
+luggage to the hotel. Later in the day I took a drive through the city,
+and was much impressed with the growth since a former visit in 1881. Off
+the coast of Marseilles is built the famous prison Chateau d'If,
+immortalized by the author of Monte Cristo, a fine view of which is seen
+from the church of Notre Dame, built on a high rock on the outskirts of
+the city. The train for Paris leaves at 9:00 p. m., and after a fair
+night's rest, I am in the French custom house, where I have no trouble.
+A cab is secured for me and I land safely in time for coffee and rolls
+at Madame Therries, where I am expected. A hasty toilet and refreshments
+taken, gave me fresh strength, and I soon found my way to Brown &
+Shipley, bankers, where I found eight letters from home. I took up one,
+the latest date; found from its contents "all were well," and I retraced
+my steps to my own apartment, where I spent a most blessed day, reading
+and writing letters.
+
+Paris, as it is to-day (1896) strikes a visitor as one of the most
+cleanly, most attractive cities in the world with its triumphal arches,
+which Napoleon had erected in commemoration of his victories, one of
+which, "The Arc de Triomphe," was begun in 1806, although the work was
+not completed till 1836, long after the founder and architect had passed
+away. This arch is the largest in the world. The arch is ninety feet
+high and forty-five feet wide. It is considered too narrow for its
+height, and the insignificant ornaments along the top of the structure
+destroy all grandeur of outline. You will find "Hare's Walks" your best
+guide book for Paris and its surroundings. A year and a half's
+researches are herein condensed. I never fail to revisit Versailles,
+when the opportunity presents itself. Your early studies in history will
+enable you, in later life, after seeing this beautiful architectural
+pile, to long for a more extended history. The fountains are only in
+full play on the Sabbath day, and throngs of people of all walks in
+life, are seen in these grounds and crowd the corridors of historical
+paintings. La Madeline, one of the popular churches, resembles a Pagan
+temple. Begun by Louis XV (1777) as a church, and finished under Louis
+Philippe in 1832, it resembles the Parthenon of the Greeks. You will
+hear fine music at the Church of "La Trinita," but the Parthenon is full
+of interest. The first church on or near this site was built by Clovis,
+and dedicated to St. Genevieve; it was burnt by the Normans and after
+numerous changing of owners, it was finally, by the order of Louis XV,
+torn down and rebuilt, as a votive offering to St. Genevieve, who he
+believed to be his patron saint during his extreme illness. The first
+stone of the new church was laid by this king in 1764, and was completed
+by the architect, Rondelet, the pupil of the first architect Soufflot
+(deceased), in 1780. It is the burial place of illustrious citizens.
+Its possession was in a transition state for years; first a church of
+God, then a resting place for the immortal dead. At length, in 1885, it
+was taken from the worship of God and given Victor Hugo, whose tomb to
+the right as you enter is usually the first to be shown. The tombs of
+Voltaire and Rousseau are empty, having been pillaged during the
+revolution. Pere La Chaise and Montmartre are cemeteries where familiar
+names are recorded on tombstones and mausoleums. In the former lie
+Abelard and Heloise, the tragedienne Rachel, and the open sarcophagus
+ready for the remains of Sarah Bernhardt, when she, too, shall lay off
+this mortal coil. There are in Pere La Chaise, and in Montmartre, many
+musical celebrities. While I was there, in April or May (1896), Ambrose
+Thomas' funeral cortege solemnly wended its way from La Trinita to this
+field of tombs. The funeral dress of the Frenchman is what we term full
+evening dress. The bier or catafalque is clothed in black broadcloth,
+embroidered in silver. The floral offerings are piled upon it; colossal
+wreaths of violets and immortelles, strung on wire, are emblematic in
+their designs. No music on that lonely march on foot but the quiet tread
+beats a requiem for the dead.
+
+Fine views are obtained from the galleries of the Trocadero. In the same
+vicinity is the "Palais d'Industrie," which was used in 1852-55 for the
+great exposition, and will be utilized again in 1900 for another fair.
+The shops of Paris are small; the windows seemingly contain most of the
+stock. We must except those great magazines, the "Louvre" and the "Bon
+Marche."
+
+"The Musee de Luxembourg, by the order of Louis XVIII, contains only
+such works of living artists as were acquired by the state. The works of
+each artist are removed to the galleries of the Louvre ten years after
+his death; the pictures are constantly changing. The walks in the Garden
+of the Luxembourg are the best types of ancient palace pleasance. They
+are considered the pleasantest spots in Paris. The character of the
+Louvre has changed from a fortress or a state prison (1367) to a picture
+gallery. It was the great dungeon tower in the center of this palace, or
+castle, called the Louvre, that the great feudataires came to take or
+renew the feudal oaths; it was there the great ceremonies took place.
+The Louvre was enlarged by Charles V, who added many towers and
+surrounded it with a moat, which was supplied from the Seine. He made a
+palace into a complete rectangular, always preserving the great central
+dungeon tower. Francis I destroyed this tower (1527). It took five
+months to do this, as it was as strong as the day it was built. It was
+regretted by the populace, because they lost the pleasure of seeing
+great lords imprisoned there. The existing palace was begun under Pierre
+Lescot in 1541. During Henry II's reign of twelve years, Lescot
+continued his work. After Henry II's death his widow, Catherine de
+Medici, came with her children to live in the new palace. Henry IV
+united the buildings that Catherine de Medici had built with those she
+had previously built, which, under the name of Tuilleries, were still
+outside the limits of the town. And from this time no one touched the
+Louvre till Richelieu demolished all that remained of the feudal
+buildings and used only in rebuilding the existing wings as the half of
+his facade of his new Louvre, and built two others on the same plan to
+make the building a perfect square.
+
+"While the minority of Louis XIV lasted, Anne of Austria lived with her
+children in the Palais Cardinal, now Palais Royal, and even while the
+work was going on at the Louvre, apartments were given to the exiled
+Henrietta Maria of England, daughter of Henry IV, who met with most
+generous treatment from her sister-in-law. Little more was done toward
+improving the Louvre through the reigns of Louis XV and XVI, and then
+came the revolution (1848). Napoleon III determined, as he was in power,
+to unite the Tuilleries and Louvre into one great whole. This was
+carried out and accomplished in 1857."
+
+During my visits to Paris (1881 and 1896) the repairs to the central
+facade of the Tuilleries had not been made. This unmeaning, desolate
+space presents to the mind the ruthless hand of war in the conflict of
+man's ambition for supremacy. Before the revolution of 1876, historians
+tell us that between the beautiful chestnut avenues, across the
+brilliant flowers and quaint orange trees of the garden, beyond the
+sparkling glory of the fountains, rose the majestic facade of a palace,
+infinitely harmonious in color, indescribably picturesque and noble in
+form, and interesting beyond description from its associations, the one
+spot to be visited by strangers, which attracted the sympathies of the
+world.
+
+We see the Arc de Triomphe du Carousal, built in 1806, by Fontaine, for
+Napoleon I. The car and horses are a reproduction of the famous group on
+St. Marks at Venice, which Napoleon captured, but were afterwards
+restored by the allies. The street scenes of Paris are most
+entertaining, but to enjoy it in its perfection, go when you are young,
+before your muscles grow stiff and your eyes dim, for the "run for your
+life" requires agility and good vision.
+
+
+
+
+HOMEWARD BOUND
+
+
+We now bid "au revoir" to Paris, and cross the English channel, from
+Calais to Dover, without any great inconvenience. And mighty Neptune did
+not call on us for many returns of the day. We proceed from Charing
+Cross station to the hotel of the same name, where we remain until we
+obtain more pleasant surroundings in the west end of London. Daily
+excursions, always on top of omnibuses, when there were seats for us,
+run to the Picadilly, Pall Mall, down Regent and Oxford streets and into
+Dickens' haunts, when time afforded, out to St. John's Woods, and
+without fail to Kensington, to the Museum, which is most absorbing of
+time and interest. We take carriages and drive through Carleton terrace
+and through streets where the city homes of the royalty are located. To
+drive in Hyde Park or Rotten Row, with a crest on your carriage door,
+would be fine, but as we had left our crests at home we were denied many
+of those privileges. I recall here with pleasure an opportunity that was
+afforded my daughter and myself, in 1881, while on a visit to
+Kensington. While wandering in the vicinity of Albert Hall, we were
+attracted by crowds of people gathering roundabout its doors. On inquiry
+we learned a bazaar was in progress therein for the benefit of some
+London hospital. By paying the admittance fee of one pound each ($5.00)
+we could enter, where we could see royalty, each person of note in his
+or her booth with the name attached. "Maidens like moths are caught by
+glare," and we were soon in regal atmosphere. Here were ladies of high
+degree, dressed in Queen Anne's style, who had been brought thither by
+lackeys in sedan chairs of that ancient class. Most marvelous was the
+display of jewels which met our bewildering gaze, and these high-born
+ladies, with their pretty feet and high insteps, delicately formed hands
+and tapering fingers, gave evidence of good blood. We were approached by
+these noble men and women, soliciting us to take chances in prizes that
+were to be raffled off, but we declined for two reasons. In the first
+place, we could not see how we could accommodate in our steamer trunks
+the huge Chinese umbrella, under whose shade at least fifty people or
+more could find shelter at a garden party, and the greater reason why we
+did not invest was that our entrance fee was quite enough for the good
+cause. However, we felt ourselves most favored at this extraordinary
+opportunity of witnessing the gentle manners, and hearing the musical
+intonation of voice that marks good birth.
+
+On Sunday afternoon we went in search, in the east end of London, for
+the "Palace of Delight," and its surroundings. We took the tramway and
+inquired of a demure, missionary-looking lady, the way to the most
+degraded quarters. She replied: "You are in that region now," and having
+no male escort, we were not particularly over-confident of our position.
+The streets were swarming with children; some fairly well clad, others
+ragged and soiled. Groups of men and women, many in Sunday attire,
+others whose habiliments were evidences of great want and poverty. But
+few were hilarious. On the contrary, serious countenances betrayed
+earnest conversation between and by these groups of people. We
+encountered no special exhibition of degradation; but upon the women's
+faces we detected the marks of toil and care, and in many of their
+offspring, idiotic, expressionless faces. Woman's work among women may
+bring in God's own good time a fulfillment of things hoped for. Again, I
+recall a scene I witnessed in 1881. We were inmates of Mr. Burr's hotel,
+as he termed it. Among his guests were people of some distinction. Mrs.
+Mary Livermore, of Massachusetts, was in this category. She had been
+sent over by her state or the city of Boston, to investigate the "Coffee
+Houses" of London, and Mr. Burr was known as a philanthropist in that
+city. Preparations were made to see London by gas light, and I was among
+the few invited to go with Mrs. Livermore. Two carriages were provided
+for the party, and each held besides four occupants, a seat either for
+Mr. Burr or his son, with the respective coachmen. We drove to the
+station and then took the steam cars to "Wandsworth," a short distance
+from London. On disembarking we walked to one of the public resorts
+known as a "Coffee House," where light refreshments, with tea, coffee
+and chocolate are offered at a trifling price; also a bottled drink
+labelled Ozone, which had no intoxicating influence. These institutions
+were for the congregating of the laboring classes, where they might
+spend an hour or so in discussing the news of the day, or in social
+intercourse, where no intoxicating beverages could be obtained, and
+which served to entertain and keep them off the streets or from dens of
+infamy. Here husband and wife, with clean hands and faces, and perhaps
+sweethearts for aught we knew, were apparently happy in this hour of
+recreation. Mrs. Livermore was asked to speak to that body of people,
+and her satellites drew close around her, not knowing how she would be
+received. Suffice to say that motherly face drew the attention of all,
+and the appeals she made to men and women present drew many a tear from
+the female portion, and to suppress an emotion, an apologetic cough
+issued from rough exteriors. We retraced our steps to London and there
+our carriages awaited us. We were driven to the "Seven Dials," and worse
+places, if possible, where we were subjected to jeers and penetrating
+glances into our carriage by the passers-by. Across these streets were
+hung clothes lines and under the glare of electric or gas lights could
+be inspected the second-handed garments that were hung thereon.
+Markets, whose stale and unhealthy condition revealed itself to our
+sensitive nostrils, and we were glad to turn away from this unkempt
+crowd to a theatre in close proximity, whose doors were thrown open
+early to those who could afford a penny or more to enter. On the stage
+was a young girl, dressed in clean apparel. A check apron gathered at
+her neck and fell nearly to the tops of her shoes. She was amusing the
+audience with a dance they called a "hoe down." She kept time to the
+music by the clatter of slip-shod shoes. Then some "Punch and Judy"
+exhibition followed, and refreshments similar to those we saw at
+Wandsworth, were passed around, from which the hungry could appease
+their hunger, and with the tea and coffee, their thirst was satisfied
+for a mere trifle.
+
+Thus the hours wore away which might have otherwise been spent, and
+would have rendered these people unfit for the next day's work. By ten
+o'clock all was over, and a very orderly crowd dispersed, we will hope,
+to their homes. The theaters in London are well patronized. I saw among
+other plays the "Prisoner of Zenda," and realized fully that to wear the
+court train, and handle it, and yourself gracefully must be to wear it
+often. The boxes are well patronized by coroneted women. I saw no one
+who struck me as being to the manor born. The universal law of removing
+all head covering is most strictly observed. The average appearance of
+the English woman does not compare with dainty, well-gowned French
+woman, but neither English nor French rival the American woman, when she
+starts out to please. No one visits London for the first time without
+seeing the tower, with its grewsome walls and its regal splendor of the
+crown jewels. The national and royal academies claim many hours, and to
+visit the churches and cathedrals one makes haste.
+
+We were in London on Easter Sunday. We heard in his own pulpit Dr.
+Parker and, more than that, his wife, now deceased, stood on the left of
+the pulpit. Before the sermon by her husband, she appealed to the women
+of London, as well as the women of every nation, to spare the birds, and
+repeated several verses of her own composition in their behalf.
+
+We fully intended to visit the cathedral towns of England, but sickness
+of one of our party, deprived us of that privilege, and after a lot of
+shopping, and more sight-seeing, we spent one day at Windsor, and saw
+the Eton College grounds. Not far away, but in sight, I believe, of
+Windsor Castle, is "Stoke Pogis," made memorable by "Gray's Elegy."
+
+Her majesty, the queen, was not at home. We were shown one room in
+particular, which has been thrown open to the public since my visit
+there in 1881; that was, the one containing the "jubilee gifts of
+1897," when hearts and hands must have been emptied in making these
+royal presents. The treasures of India were there, those of Afric's
+sunny shores, and from every nation and every tribe that acknowledged
+Victoria. Queen and empress, each and all, poured forth their trophies
+at her feet. Her stables were shown us, well stocked with thoroughbred
+steeds from far off Arabia and the Shetland Isles.
+
+"Time and tide waits for no man," and we are booked for the "Augusta
+Victoria," that sails April ----, 1896. Some love to roam, but I like it
+better when I am nearer home. Our trip across the Atlantic is not what
+we hoped for, and a choppy sea with an occasional swell made us feel
+uncomfortable. I had the pleasure in Paris of making the acquaintance of
+a gentleman, wife and young lady daughter, who invited me to return to
+America in their company, and seldom, if ever, has it been my lot to
+have my lines cast among more delightful people than they and, although
+our homes are far apart, my heart often goes out to them.
+
+When our own home port is sighted and the sensation the appearance of a
+custom-house officer always creates is over, and the welcome "O. K." is
+visible on our luggage, we feel like taking off our chapeau to "Liberty
+Enlightening the World."
+
+It is midnight when we land on the Jersey shore, and the gallant
+captain, no less courteous on land than on sea, bids us return to our
+cabins and rest, when we have obeyed our country's mandate, the custom
+house officer.
+
+A hasty breakfast and a few good-byes are spoken, and my heart swells
+within me, as I spring from the gang-plank to the shore, and the lines
+
+    "My native country, thee,
+    Land of the noble free,
+      Thy name I love;
+    I love thy rocks and rills,
+    Thy woods and templed hills,
+    My heart with rapture thrills
+      Like that above,"
+
+seem to express all and more than all that I could say.
+
+A short stay of a few hours in New York, and an uneventful trip on the
+New York Central Railroad brought me into Chicago, where those nearest
+and dearest to me were in waiting to bid me welcome home. And now in
+closing, my dear children, I will say: "That if the work I have done in
+leaving you these impressions and footprints, gives the pleasure hoped
+for, I will feel compensated, notwithstanding I have labored when the
+flesh was weak and my vision clouded. When you have reached my age
+(sixty-three), when youth and vigor are not in their fulness, this work
+of love may then be appreciated."
+
+                                   Your Grandmother,
+
+                                     ELEONORA HUNT.
+
+    Nov. 20, 1897.
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's My Trip Around the World, by Eleonora Hunt
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