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diff --git a/33079-h/33079-h.htm b/33079-h/33079-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..ea80f31 --- /dev/null +++ b/33079-h/33079-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,5806 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.1//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml11/DTD/xhtml11.dtd"> +<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml"> + <head> + <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=iso-8859-1" /> + <meta http-equiv="Content-Style-Type" content="text/css" /> + <title> + The Project Gutenberg eBook of My Trip Around the World, by Eleonora Hunt. + </title> + <style type="text/css"> + +body { margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; } +h1,h2,h3,h4,h5,h6 { text-align: center; clear: both;} +h1 span, h2 span { display: block; margin-bottom: .5em; } +#auth { font-size: 80%; } +#by { font-size: 60%; margin-top: 2em; margin-bottom: 2em; } +p { margin-top: .75em; text-align: justify; margin-bottom: .75em; } +hr { width: 33%; margin-top: 2em; margin-bottom: 2em; margin-left: auto; + margin-right: auto; clear: both;} +table { margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;} + +p.detail {Text-align:right; margin-right:10%; text-indent: -1em;} +.notebox {margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; margin-top: 5%; + margin-bottom: 5%; padding: 1em; border: solid black 1px;} +.box { margin: 0 auto; padding: .5em; border: solid black 1px; text-align: center;} +ins.corr { text-decoration: none; border-bottom: thin dotted;} +a img { border: none; } + +td.desc { text-align: left; vertical-align: top; padding-left: 2em; + text-indent: -2em;} +td.pgno { text-align: right; vertical-align: bottom; padding-left: 1em;} +hr.chap {width: 65%; page-break-before: always;} + +.pagenum { position: absolute; left: 92%; font-size: smaller; + font-style: normal; text-align: right; text-indent: 0em;} +.center {text-align: center;} +.smcap {font-variant: small-caps;} +.u {text-decoration: underline;} +.caption {font-size: 90%;} +.figcenter { margin: auto; text-align: center;} +.poem { margin-left:10%; margin-right:10%; text-align: left;} +.poem br {display: none;} +.poem .stanza {margin: 1em 0em 1em 0em;} +.poem span.i0 { display: block; margin-left: 0em; + padding-left: 3em; text-indent: -3em; } +.poem span.i05 { display: block; margin-left: 0.5em; + padding-left: 3em; text-indent: -3em; } +.poem span.i1 { display: block; margin-left: 1em; + padding-left: 3em; text-indent: -3em; } +.poem span.i2 { display: block; margin-left: 2em; + padding-left: 3em; text-indent: -3em; } +.poem span.i4 { display: block; margin-left: 4em; + padding-left: 3em; text-indent: -3em; } + + </style> + </head> +<body> + + +<pre> + +The Project Gutenberg EBook of My Trip Around the World, by Eleonora Hunt + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: My Trip Around the World + August, 1895-May, 1896 + +Author: Eleonora Hunt + +Release Date: July 4, 2010 [EBook #33079] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MY TRIP AROUND THE WORLD *** + + + + +Produced by Asad Razzaki and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was +produced from images generously made available by The +Internet Archive/American Libraries.) + + + + + + +</pre> + + +<div class="notebox"> +<p>Transcriber's Notes:</p> + +<p>Variations in spelling and hyphenation have been retained as +in the original.</p> + +<p>A few typographical errors have been corrected. They are +shown in the text with <ins class="corr" title= +"like this">mouse-hover popups</ins>. Position your mouse over +the word to see the correction.</p> + +<p>The book did not have a table of contents, one is generated +in the html version</p> +</div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 294px;"> +<img src="images/cover.jpg" width="294" height="450" alt="Book Cover." title="" /> +</div> +<hr /> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 249px;"> +<a href="images/port-b.jpg"><img src="images/port-s.jpg" width="249" height="400" alt="Portrait of the Author." title="" /></a> +</div> + +<hr /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_1">[Pg 1]</a></span></p> + +<h1><span>My Trip Around the +World</span> + +<span id="by">BY</span> + +<span id="auth">ELEONORA HUNT</span></h1> + +<p class="center"><br /><br />AUGUST, 1895—MAY, 1896</p> + +<p class="center"><br /><br /><small>PRIVATELY PRINTED FOR THE AUTHOR<br /> +CHICAGO<br /> +1902</small></p> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_2">[Pg 2]</a></span></p> +<hr /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_3">[Pg 3]</a></span></p> + +<div class="box" style="width: 15em;"> +<p class="center">DEDICATED TO MY<br /> +GRANDSONS<br /> +<br /> +<i>John and Hunt Wentworth</i><br /></p> +</div> + +<hr /> +<!-- Autogenerated TOC. Modify or delete as required. --> +<div class="center"> +<table border="0" cellpadding="4" cellspacing="0" summary="Table of Contents"> +<tr><td class="desc">CHAPTER</td><td class="pgno">PAGE</td></tr> +<tr><td class="desc"><a href="#Introduction"><b>Introduction.</b></a></td><td class="pgno">5</td></tr> +<tr><td class="desc"><a href="#My_Trip_Around_the_World"><b>My Trip Around the World</b></a></td><td class="pgno">7</td></tr> +<tr><td class="desc"><a href="#FROM_JAPAN_TO_CHINA"><b>FROM JAPAN TO CHINA</b></a></td><td class="pgno">29</td></tr> +<tr><td class="desc"><a href="#INDIA"><b>INDIA.</b></a></td><td class="pgno">57</td></tr> +<tr><td class="desc"><a href="#EGYPT"><b>EGYPT.</b></a></td><td class="pgno">103</td></tr> +<tr><td class="desc"><a href="#FROM_EGYPT_TO_FRANCE"><b>FROM EGYPT TO FRANCE</b></a></td><td class="pgno">149</td></tr> +<tr><td class="desc"><a href="#HOMEWARD_BOUND"><b>HOMEWARD BOUND</b></a></td><td class="pgno">157</td></tr> +</table></div> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_4">[Pg 4]</a></span></p> +<hr class="chap" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_5">[Pg 5]</a></span></p> +<h2><a id="Introduction"></a><i>Introduction.</i></h2> + +<p><i>I must acknowledge that I hesitate to place +this manuscript in print. It has been a struggle +for me in my declining days, with impaired +health and imperfect vision; but my desire is +that my grandsons, John and Hunt Wentworth, +to whom I dedicate this book, may glean from its +leaves some knowledge and, perhaps, it may create +a desire to take the same trip some day, having first +gained for themselves a storehouse of knowledge +with which they may be enabled to see the Orient +and other foreign lands with a greater degree of +appreciation. By that time, the "Problems of +the Far East" may have been solved, and light +divine will shine in the dark places.</i></p> + +<p><i>If a few copies find their way into the hands +of friends, those who know me well will have +charity, as they know the difficulties I have had +to surmount in accomplishing the work.</i></p> + +<p class="detail"><i>E. H.</i></p> + +<p class="date"><i>July 31, 1902.</i></p> +<hr /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_6">[Pg 6]</a></span></p> + +<p class="center"><small>Wm. Johnston Printing Company<br /> +Chicago</small></p> + +<hr class="chap" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_7">[Pg 7]</a></span></p> +<h2><a id="My_Trip_Around_the_World"></a><i>My Trip Around the World</i></h2> + +<p class="detail"><span class="smcap">Chicago</span>, August 19, 1895.</p> + +<p>Have you ever had a desire so great that it +became a controlling influence, and when that +desire or wish was gratified and that day +dream became a reality to feel an overwhelming +sadness—a heart failure? If so, you can +realize how on August 19, 1895, at 6:30 p. m., I +left Chicago with a heavy heart for a voyage +around the world in company with my brother, +his wife and son, the latter just relieved +from college life.</p> + +<p>We arrived in St. Paul in time for breakfast, +the train already made up that was to convey +us on the Canadian Pacific Railroad to Vancouver, +B. C.</p> + +<p>Our attention was at once directed to the +immense wheat fields of Minnesota and villages +few and far between. Through the endless +prairies of the Dakotas, with no signs of +vegetation along the railway, and but little +animal life. A few Indians visit the station on +the arrival of trains; some to barter, others—blind +or crippled—to beg. The third day out, +at 1:30 p. m., we reached the Glaciers, where +we remained twenty-four hours. Through +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_8">[Pg 8]</a></span> +Assinniboin, north of western Dakota, we had +noticed deep furrowed trails of the buffalo +crossing the road from north to south. Now +and then, their bones were seen in white +patches on the prairies, and at the stations +tons were ready for shipment east to make +tooth-brush handles and bone dust for soda +fountains, etc. We had been advised to stop +at the Glaciers instead of Banff, perhaps by +some traveler who felt the inconvenience of +getting up at three o'clock in the morning to +take the train. We regretted it, however, +when we were told that the hotel is nestled +among the mountains rising over 5,000 feet +above it, all of them snow capped and far +down the sides of the deep gorges was still seen +the same white vestment. The Glacier House, +where we spent the night, is like a Swiss chalet +in architecture. To sit upon its piazza and gaze +on the lofty mountain peaks is a sublime sight. +To watch the sun climbing its sides, rose-tinting +the snows which lie like a mantle over +their height, is not soon forgotten; and to listen +to the mighty roar of the foaming cataract, +which tumbles over the precipitous foothills, +one can but exclaim: Almighty One, +how great are thy works! The path leading +through the forest to the glacier is most +picturesque, but not easily trodden. The constant +fear of encountering a wolf or bear, together +with the sight of the great mountain +of ice, soon cools one's ardor, and we were +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_9">[Pg 9]</a></span> +content to retrace our steps and to gather +after dinner around an old-fashioned stove in +the exchange of the Inn with a score of travelers +and listen to the stories of their adventures +and have for an object lesson skins of +the grizzlies but lately captured, which had +not a soporific effect, but less terrific than +meeting their majesties face to face.</p> + +<p>The scenery from the Glacier House to Vancouver, +through the Selkirk Mountains is overpowering; +around countless curves, over lofty +trestles and ragged edges of fearful precipices +the line of cars pursues its way. The stupendous +heights are at times absolutely shrouded +in smoke; the climb of twenty-seven hundred +feet in thirty miles around the mountain +shelves and through vast snow sheds (most +expensive in their construction), to emerge +again into the light for a glance down the +gorges into the glaciers, over and above to the +lofty summits, is all the imagination can picture, +and the traveler feels like a "mighty atom" +in the midst thereof.</p> + +<p>On the fifth day out from home we arrived +in the city of Vancouver. Our vessel, the +"Empress of Japan," lay at anchor very near +the wharf, and after securing our cabins +and seats at the table we returned to the +Hotel Vancouver, where we remained from +Saturday till Monday morning. Owing to a +delayed train, we did not sail before midnight. +We had forty-seven out-going missionaries, +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_10">[Pg 10]</a></span> +some returning from a vacation granted once +in seven years, others were about to enter on +untried duties. The Rev. S. F. J. Schereschewsky, +wife and daughter, were among the +number. He was a paralytic—the stroke was +superinduced by a sunstroke in China, where +he had labored heroically in a translation of +the Bible into the Chinese language. He was +taken to Paris where, under Charcot's care, he +recovered sufficiently to return to Cambridge, +Mass., where his work was completed ready for +publication. This he desired to have done in +Shanghai. We were told his translation would +excel all others that have ever been made.</p> + +<p>At 10 o'clock each day, during the voyage +of fourteen days the missionaries would gather +together for a short service in the salon, +where admittance was free to all. The ship +averaged 370 miles a day; a few of the passengers +found the "rocking in the cradle of the +deep" rather disagreeable, but the majority +of them kept their chairs and were well repaid, +for the air was a tonic too good to be missed. +The ship was well disciplined, the table inviting, +the service entirely Chinese—whose sense +of decorum was most marked.</p> + +<p>On Sunday evening, the thirteenth day out, +we expected to anchor at Yokohama, but a +fearful wind arose; the captain left his seat at +the dinner table in haste and ordered the ship's +course changed. We were skirting a terrific +typhoon. We were in sight of land, but instead +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_11">[Pg 11]</a></span> +of reaching it at seven-thirty in the evening +we did not accomplish it until 10 o'clock Monday +morning. The steamer "Belgic" was stranded +that night forty-three miles from Yokohama. The +captain, who had for forty years made successful +trips, was destined to see his vessel wrecked; +no lives were lost but the rebuke he received +cost him the loss of his position—and much +greater the loss of reason. He was taken to +a madhouse.</p> + +<p>The 9th of September found us in the hands +of our guide, who had been engaged to meet +us on board the vessel on our arrival. Jinrikishas +were in waiting, we rode to the custom +house and from there to the Hotel Grand, +along the Bund skirting the water's edge. The +sun shone brilliantly, and all Nature seemed +to bid us welcome. The hotel site is unequaled; +the gentle sea breezes seem to follow +us; Englishmen and Americans crowded the +verandas, and apparently gave us a warm welcome. +Long lines of jinrikishas formed a +barrier between the waters of Yeddo Bay and +the hotel, each in charge of a coolie, whose +dress (if any) shocked us; but to this nude +condition we soon became oblivious.</p> + +<p>A ride along the shore of the Mississippi +Bay, and through the country where rice and +millet grow abundantly, in a jinrikisha with +a good natured coolie is a delight. The Bungalow +of the native all exposed to view is a sample +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_12">[Pg 12]</a></span> +of neatness, while the children, most gentle +with each other, play in numbers around +the home.</p> + +<p>On this drive and but a short distance from +Yokohama is the English concession, homes +hidden almost from view by high walls and +dense foliage. In that land of sunshine, with +the cool breeze from the sea, the constant influx +of European and American travelers, +keeping one in touch with the world and with +the simplicity of the surroundings, one can +imagine a tranquilizing life and a happy +coterie.</p> + +<p>The streets of Yokohama are narrow, the +houses of one, sometimes two stories, all on +line with the sidewalk and with apparently no +privacy. The gutters are flushed with water, +which seems to be used for all purposes, even +to the bathing of children. The absence of +horses gives ample room for the masses of men, +women and children who throng the streets. +No haste is manifested, save when a line of +jinrikishas of heavily freighted coolies appear, +and then with perfect good nature the right +of way is given. No menace, no insults are +heard. The perennial smile of women and +the submission of the men is enough to conquer +all antagonism to foreigners, if any +exists. Nevertheless, a guide is indispensable +to protect against intrusive curiosity, for +wherever you stop, there the gaping crowd +surrounds you.</p> +<p> +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_13">[Pg 13]</a></span></p> +<p>The shopping fever seems to manifest itself +almost immediately on arrival at Yokohama; +in fact, I heard of no epidemic so fatal to visitors. +Your guide, who has an eye to the +commission he will receive on all your purchases, +gives you his advice as to where you +shall buy—to his best advantage. As truthfulness +is not a Japanese virtue, it is well to +consult your fellow traveler and to use your +own judgment as to quality. Each city of +Japan seems to have its specialty; for instance: +We found the handsomest kimonas, the finest +cloisonais in Yokohama: the best carving in +ivory in Tokio.</p> + +<p>As for a gentleman's outfit it would be advisable +to go to Yokohama with an empty +trunk, for good materials and perfect fit are +guaranteed for marvelously low prices. There +your duck suits, Pongees and silk underwear +for the tropics are laid in with great satisfaction. +The adaptation in imitation is most +striking. A waist of a dress given the tailor +will be so closely copied in fit and style and +delivered in so brief a space of time that it +makes you fairly sigh when you think of the +waste of time and mistakes that our own +modistes often subject us to, but there is no +originality displayed by the Japanese.</p> + +<p>The native woman is always clothed; the +unmarried, known by the style of hair dressing, +are neat and gayly attired in their +kimonas and bright sashes, are attractive, +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_14">[Pg 14]</a></span> +but the absolute negligence of the mothers +is revolting. The hair if not in strings, is +most loosely bound up; no more pomade and +bows; their teeth blackened, and their bosoms +so exposed that their elongated condition becomes +revolting. We were told that supply +of the human dairy never ceases while the demand +exists. No sooner does one child let go, +than another takes hold—hence the accessibility.</p> + +<p>To visit the temples is of daily occurrence. +There, hundreds of natives are huddled together, +prostrating themselves before the +tinselled altars, leaving behind them in the +space they have occupied a coin, of but little +value, it may be, but something to denote their +willingness to support their religion. These +coins are gathered by the priests, and a theft +is unknown.</p> + +<p>Strangers are admitted without hesitancy to +the rooms where cloisonai and bronze are +manufactured, the close quarters, the simplicity +of utensils, the perfection of workmanship, +the untiring patience is to the nervous +American the wonder of the age.</p> + +<p>At night the streets of the city are thronged. +Along and outside the curbstone are peddlers +with their wares spread upon the ground with +a single lamp light, around which gather the +customers. The jugglers seated behind open +lattice work perform their feats to admiring +groups, while theatrical performances all in +full blast, shut up from view from the street +with but a slight screen, seem well patronized.</p> +<p> +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_15">[Pg 15]</a></span></p> +<p>Many women are sold by their parents +for the payment of a debt or the support of their +families. The government confines these characters +to their own quarters; they are not allowed +on the streets of the city. We turn willingly on +the following day to something more elevating +and visit Enoshina, via the Imperial Railroad. +The chief object of interest at Kamakura, our first +stopping place, is the "Dai Butsa"—"Great Buddha." +It stands alone as the highest embodiment +of Japanese art; height, forty-nine feet and seven +inches; circumference, ninety-seven feet and +two inches; surrounded by beautiful Camphor +and Echo trees. This bronze image is supposed +to have been erected in 1252. The temple +built over this image was destroyed in +1494. Since then it has remained exposed to +the elements. Within the image is a space +containing a shrine. The eyes of Buddha are +of pure gold; the silver boss on the forehead +weighs thirty pounds—it signifies light, or +wisdom. Not far from this image of bronze +stands the temple of Kovanon, the Goddess of +Mercy, whose image is seen indistinctly behind +folding doors. It is of brown lacquer, +gilded and is thirty feet high. We enter and +involuntarily lay our hand upon it for the virtue +that may arise from our act of faith.</p> + +<p>We again summon our coolies and, along +the water's edge, are drawn to the hillside on +whose summit is one of the most picturesque +tea houses in Japan. The ascent is rather +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_16">[Pg 16]</a></span> +steep, but through shaded paths lined on either +side with stands where attractive souvenirs +may be purchased, chopsticks of fancy design, +jewelry, shell ornaments, etc., etc. The view +from the tea house overlooking the sea is most +charming. There our guide has laid for us a +tempting lunch brought from the hotel at +Yokohama. Tea and service is offered us by +most graceful Japanese waitresses, who have +no hesitation in assisting our gentlemen +change their clothing for the bathing suit, that +they may follow them to the water's edge to +see them sport like fish in the bright blue +waters, and were it not for the pestiferous +fleas, one might declare the excursion perfect.</p> + +<p>The journey to Niko by rail is most diversified, +shaded for miles by the Cryptomeria +trees. The pear tree, trellised with its luscious +fruit somewhat like our Russet apple or a +taste akin to watermelon, is seen. The day's +journey is made all the more agreeable by the +luncheon of quail sandwiches, fruits and hot +tea, the latter made by our guide in our compartment. +At five-thirty o'clock in the evening we +arrive at the Hotel Niko, the weather cold +and rainy, a poor table and damp, uninviting +apartments. A brazier is at the solicitation +of the guests placed in the drawing room. +There we barter all evening with natives for +furs of the monkey, idols of ivory and objects +of interest of wood and bronze. The trip to +Lake Chuzendi, eight miles from Niko, is made +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_17">[Pg 17]</a></span> +by chairs and jinrikishas carried and drawn +by the coolies. For our party of four we take +two chairs and three jinrikishas and seventeen +coolies—four for each chair, two to pull and +one to push the jinrikishas. The third jinrikisha +is for our guide and hamper of provisions. +The road zigzags in many turns up the steep +sides of the mountain, followed by a dashing +stream issuing from Lake Chuzendi, known as +"Kenon-no-taks," which falls in beautiful cascades +and seethes over the dizzy heights, while +our sturdy pullers keep up a tremendous pace +with a continuous cry of warning to a chance +pedestrian or cart of a street vender, whom +we meet on the narrow ledges drawn by the +same patient coolie. Baskets hung on a pole +and borne by two men often contain a native +woman and perhaps a child; mules with panniers +so large filled with vegetables and +merchandise that you can scarcely see the +poor animal, slowly plodding along this highway +led by a woman or more often a small boy +with a rain cloak of straw and a wide brimmed +hat of the same material, which are so cumbersome +that you look almost in vain for the +wearer. We dismount wherever a fine view is +obtainable, and invariably find a tea house. +Attentive waitresses, clad in their bright kimonas, +regale you with small cups of tea and +cake, to say nothing of the peppermint candies +offered for a few pennies with a low bow and +bewitching smile. Cushions to rest upon—with +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_18">[Pg 18]</a></span> +invisible occupants (fleas), who insist +upon accompanying you during the journey, +notwithstanding your efforts to shake them +off. If a bright day is vouchsafed the traveler +the view from the summit is glorious, +the tea house commodious; fishing with nets +adroitly thrown brings in an abundant supply +for the table. Our curiosity led us into an +apartment where the noon meal was being +prepared by a wife for her liege lord. The +cooking was done over a few coals in a brass +brazier filled with ashes. A steel skewer +placed upright in the ashes on which was suspended +a fish, overhanging the coals, which by +frequent turnings was most effectually dried and +apparently made a savory dish. An omelet +most tempting and a bowl of rice was +then placed upon a low table before which +the husband sat upon his haunches and ate +most leisurely, while the wife retired into +a corner endeavoring to satisfy a hungry infant. +The great question of the Orient is: +Will the day ever come when an equality of +sex will be acknowledged? We put the question +to our well-educated guide, who shook his +head and replied, "In America women rule, but +in Japan the master is man." A missionary told +me that they endeavored early to marry the converted +man to the Christian woman and to insist +that they should sit together at their meals, +but it was a hard lesson and seldom adopted.</p> + +<p>The temples of Niko surpass all others that we +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_19">[Pg 19]</a></span> +saw in Japan. Broad avenues, well shaded, lead +up to the hills upon which they were built. In +1617 Hidetada, the second Shogun, removed the +body of his father to this spot. He was deified by +an order of the Mikado, under a name signifying +"The Light of the East," the great incarnation of +Buddha. His grandson finished the temple +erected in memory of his grandfather and was +himself enshrined there. The five-story pagoda, +105 feet high, lends interest to this spot. The +decorations of these temples are of carved wood +in panels, painted in gorgeous coloring. Much +of this carving is the handiwork of the celebrated +"Hidare Jingoro," other work that of "Tunza." +The group of three monkeys, blind, deaf and +dumb, and the "sleeping cat," all have religious +signification. The floors of these temples are +covered with padded matting; in consequence, +no one is allowed to enter without removing +his shoes, or slipping a cotton covering over +those he has on. The altars are ornamented +with immense brass storks, with candelabra in +their mouths, and tinselled lotus flowers with +leaves of brass are much in vogue. The tombs +are guarded with painted monsters representing +gods of Wind and Thunder. The services are +not unlike those conducted in the Catholic +Church by continuous chanting. Pilgrims are +coming and going, offering their prayers after +first signaling the gods by ringing a bell, the +rope of which is often made of human hair, a +sacrifice made to appease the gods during an +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_20">[Pg 20]</a></span> +epidemic. Near by and in the same enclosure is +the sacred horse, a stupid looking animal, +guarded by an old woman, who for a trifling +recompense will feed it a few beans from a small +saucer.</p> + +<p>From Niko we go to Tokio, a city of magnificent +distances, the home of the Mikado. We stop +at the Imperial Hotel, the best kept in Japan. +Temples and tombs set apart in sequestered +groves, seem to be the resort of pleasure-seekers +and pilgrims. Once the ceremonial worship is +over, the people clap their hands to notify their +god of their duties having been performed, and +turn for rice, tea or chat. Many of the petitions +are written on slips of paper and are left on the +gratings that protect the idols, and those frightful +guardians at the entrance are frequently covered +with moistened balls of paper containing +their written prayers.</p> + +<p>Thirty years of civilization has not changed +the agricultural implements. The same plow +that upheaved the soil one thousand years ago +turns it now; the same punt that furrowed the +waters is the same to-day; the style of architecture +of the old Tartar order, derived from the +old Tartar tents, with immense curving and +overhanging roof, repeats itself in keeps and +temples. Possibly this stereotype is the result of +being for ages cut off from other nations. The +ponderous bells, struck by great beams of wood +swung from the outside, give forth mighty mysterious +murmurings.</p> +<p> +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_21">[Pg 21]</a></span></p> +<p>The population of the city of Tokio is a million +and a half (1895) and covers a territory as +large as London. The castle of the Mikado, in +the center of the city, occupies a space of several +miles in circumference. There are three castles, +and between each a moat; the inner side of each +has a wall of sixty to ninety feet high, built of +huge stones of massive weight. The inner castle +is surrounded by beautiful wooded grounds, +miniature lakes, streams and meadows. The +public buildings and those occupied by government +officials are of European architecture. The +streets of the city are narrow, no sidewalks, and +the one-story houses serve as workshop and +residence for the occupant. The inhabitants go +bareheaded, carrying umbrellas. The convenience +of the river that runs through Tokio +and the canals that intersperse its streets is very +apparent. Public education is compulsory. +Japan in its whole extent, with all its islands included, +covers about as much territory as North +and South Dakota combined. Although it has +an immense system of irrigation, only one-twelfth +of its soil is under cultivation, and the rice crop +entirely dependent upon it. The population of +forty million of people of untiring industry is +rewarded by a mere living. For centuries the +cultured class of patrons of the temples have +given these people work, for every rich temple +adds to its wealth bronzes, lacquered work, vestments +of brocades, tapestries and carvings of +images, each having its fire-proof building in +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_22">[Pg 22]</a></span> +which its treasures are kept; they are not seen +in the temples. As for the missionary work, we +visited the "Mary Colby Seminary," a boarding +and day school in Yokohama, Miss Grafton of +Vermont being principal. At that time there +were fifty native children as scholars, most +of them able to pay for their own tuition. +It is impossible to calculate the strength and influence +of these teachings, and where the schools +become self-supporting they must be strongholds. +We were told that demand for teachers +was much less than the number waiting to be +called. At Kiota we visited the "Dobisha +School," a university started in 1875, under the +auspices of the American Board of Missions; +connected with this institution is the girls' +school and training school for nurses; also a +hospital. A warm reception by Miss Benton, +the principal of the girls' school, from Los +Angeles, Cal., awaited us, and we were shown +through the buildings, and were most astonished +at the well built and commodious edifices, surrounded +by well laid out grounds. There were +not a half-dozen scholars. On inquiring why the +accommodations were so great and the number +of occupants so small, we were told cholera had +kept many away. The few half-grown girls were +seated around the table intent in reading a +translation from Shakespeare of "King Lear," +and others Walter Scott's "Lady of the Lake."</p> + +<p>One of the girls played upon an instrument +some four feet long with two wire strings. Upon +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_23">[Pg 23]</a></span> +the third finger of her left hand she wore an +ivory ring, and with this she would strike +the ivory knots placed at intervals on the +instrument, producing sounds not unlike a +guitar. She sat upon the floor and seemed +sullen. The teacher remarked to us that many +were very obstinate. We saw the table prepared +for their dinner—a large bowl of rice in the +center and small bowls at each plate, with a +dried fish upon it and a pair of chop sticks. One +of the studies most enjoyed is the arrangement +of flowers, which is really a life's study. The +ceremonial tea is conducted with great precision +and is regarded as a graceful accomplishment. +The price of tuition was 2 yen 80 sen per month, +caring for their own rooms and doing their own +washing. It is under the Congregational and +Presbyterian auspices, and was not in a flourishing +condition financially. After this we visited a +dancing school which was most interesting. The +teacher, a gray-headed woman, sat upon the floor +with a dozen or more pupils around her. In one +hand she held a wand, in the other a fan. Each +child received individual instruction, the scholar +standing bare-footed, with her eyes fixed upon the +instructor; in her hand an oiled paper parasol, +which when swaying her body to and fro she +handled most gracefully, while the only music +was the old woman's voice in mournful cadence, +by the <ins class="corr" title="original had 'rythm'">rhythm</ins> of which her fan seemed in sympathy. +With the wand she would strike her fan +when she wished an emphatic stamping of feet. +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_24">[Pg 24]</a></span></p> + +<p>The bronze factories, open to the traveler, are +well worthy of a visit. The mixture of gold, +copper, tin and silver into these ornaments are +regulated in price by the quantity of gold and +silver used. The intaglio figures are overlaid +with these precious metals, and the deft hand of +cunning workmanship is perceptible in every +article produced. The Rapids of Katsuragawa +(a famous resort in the maple season) is fourteen +miles by jinrikisha from Kiota, which takes +about three hours and a half to accomplish. +Our party of five required five jinrikishas and +ten men, much of the road being upgrade and +through tunnels. Rice fields abounded and the +scenery wild and picturesque. A tea house at +the end of the ride affords room for us to have +our own luncheon spread, and after an hour's +rest we take a boat, to which our jinrikishas +and coolies are transferred. The descent of the +rapids requires two hours' time. The pilot +stands half clad at the helm, while three men +with long ropes attached to the vessel run along +the rocky shore, pulling with all their strength. +The bed of the river is rocky. Artificial improvements +have been made rendering the channel +more navigable, but the weirdness of the +scene is heightened by the flashes of lightning +and the low, reverberating thunder claps that +were followed by slight rain. The boat trembles +and bends before the fury of the waters. +We are assured that the pilot is skillful and an +accident is the exception. We land at Arashizama +and resume our jinrikisha ride to Kiota.</p> +<p> +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_25">[Pg 25]</a></span></p> +<p>Alternate days are spent in the shops. We +find jade to be an expensive article. The stone +is very difficult to carve, hence its value. The +pale green in color is most desirable; a cup of +cornelian red, very tiny, was 145 yen; a small +figure of a lion, beautifully carved, 175 yen. +There is a superstition among the natives of +Japan and China that anklets or bracelets of +jade keep off the evil eye.</p> + +<p>We next visit Nara, the holy city. It is +not to-day a tenth of its former size, as it is no +longer the imperial seat of government. Situated +at the foot of a range of mountains are +beautiful groves, through which wind broad +avenues, shaded by the cryptomeria trees. Temples +are hid away in sequestered spots; in one +of these the sacred rite of an ancient dance is +kept up by priestesses. For a stated fee you +can have it executed. The dress worn is of +ancient type and bears the Wisteria crest of the +Hasaga temple. These dancers wear a white, +expressionless mask; their movements, together +with the doleful music furnished by the priests +with kotos, pipes and drums, make you feel well +satisfied with a brief performance, the tune suggesting +Watts' "Hark from the tombs, the doleful +sound," etc. Here we meet crowds of pilgrims +enjoying the beautiful groves with old +trunks of trees covered with camellias, wisterias, +plum and wild ivy, which are the marvels of the +place. The great bell, thirteen feet high, containing +thirty-six tons of copper, an image of +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_26">[Pg 26]</a></span> +Buddha, fifty-three feet in height, and a museum +erected and sustained by the government are the +chief attractions of Nara. Together with the +Temple of Taconda, with its fine wood carvings +and its beautiful little lake near by, with shoals +of speckled fish which are fed daily for the entertainment +of visitors. Our inn was strictly +Japanese. The apartment set aside for us was +partitioned into rooms by mosquito netting. +Imagine a room sixty feet long; at intervals of +fifteen feet were hooks, placed in the cornice, +upon which were hung mosquito nets with +teaster-tops, forming, as it were, a square chamber. +On the floor of each, beds were made, +which consisted of three or four comforters or +futahs, immaculately clean, placed one upon the +other, while one was rolled for our head rest. +Before retiring we were asked to place our valuables +in the hands of the proprietor for safety, +which we did in part. Our dinner consisted +of soup, chicken and potatoes, beefsteak and +onions. The curiosity of the waitresses of the +inn is laughable; nothing escapes their eyes; +even the linings of our dress skirts were investigated.</p> + +<p>The founder of one of the temples is said +to have ridden to this place in 767 on a spotted +deer. Since then the animal is almost deified +and is by some supposed to be a messenger +from earth to heaven. The groves are full +of these favorites.</p> +<p> +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_27">[Pg 27]</a></span></p> +<p>Osaka, the Birmingham of Japan, is built +upon canals, on either side of which are lines +of storehouses containing cotton goods, chinaware +and wooden utensils. The castle here was +occupied by a military force, and all admittance +was denied. Kobe, two hours' ride via railroad, +is the point of departure for us from Japan, after +sailing through the Inland sea and stopping a +few hours at Nagasaki. Kobe has an English +concession. Club houses, banks and good hotels +gives it a European appearance. The Japanese +portion has its bazaar, crematories and temples. +The hour for cremating is at six o'clock in the +evening, and we visited this place in time to see +three bodies already placed in the furnaces; two +of these were in casks, as they were in a sitting +position; that of an infant in a rude box, in such +as our oranges are shipped, and tied with twine. +The crematory was on the summit of a hill, at the +foot of which was the cemetery, where the ashes +were interred. The sailing of the "Empress of +China" through the Inland Sea is lovely beyond +description. The sky cloudless, temperature +about 72 (Oct. 1st, 1895); Americans and English +crowded the deck. The harbor at Nagasaki +is fine. War vessels from almost every country +lie at anchor in the sparkling waters. The +"Centurion" of the British line and the "Charleston," +of the American, commanded by Captain +Coffin, Messrs. Sharp and Littlefield, officers, +gave us a courteous welcome. When the day was +far spent and the last rays of the setting sun reflected +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_28">[Pg 28]</a></span> +its beautiful coloring on the waters, which +glistened like diamonds in an emerald setting +around the vessels, our own flag waved its +colors and the soul-stirring strain, "Should +Auld Acquaintance Be Forgot," aroused all the +patriotism and tenderness in our hearts. As +we waved a good-bye to the land of "The Rising +Sun" it was with the desire that we might +return to the scenes that had contributed so +much to our enjoyment. The twelve guns fired +from the "Centurion" in honor of the occasion +seemed as echoes from the hills bidding us adieu +with an au revoir.</p> + +<hr class="chap" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_29">[Pg 29]</a></span></p> +<h2><a id="FROM_JAPAN_TO_CHINA"></a>FROM JAPAN TO CHINA<br /> +AND CEYLON.</h2> + +<p class="detail"><span class="smcap">Steamer Empress of Japan,<br /> +Yellow Sea</span>, October 4, 1895.</p> + +<p>Seated at the table with the first officer, who +proves most loquacious and intelligent, we discuss +the "Prince of Wales," the English rule in +foreign lands and the works of George D. Curzon, +a man of great expectations and great possibilities. +He loaned me "Problems of the Far East," +which I found most entertaining, clear and authentic. +On my left are seated Dr. and Mrs. Ashmore. +The former has been forty-five years in +the missionary field in China. Mrs. Ashmore, +as Mrs. Brown, was the founder of the "Mary +Colby Seminary" at Yokohama, afterwards removing +to China with her second husband. One +of her daughters married Mr. Curtis, editor of +a Kobe paper, the other, Mr. McCarty, a transportation +merchant of Yokohama. Mrs. Ashmore +expressed her views freely regarding the +Dobisha school in Kiota. The great extravagance +in building and in furnishing the university +had forced it to the verge of bankruptcy. +Dr. and Mrs. Ashmore labor under the Baptist +auspices, and both feel that the most encouragement +is offered the missionary in China rather +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_30">[Pg 30]</a></span> +than Japan. The conversion of the Chinese was +far more permanent when once accomplished +than that of the Japanese; they were more truthful +and with less varnish. We have on board +Isabella Bird Bishop, gray-haired and with mild +blue eyes, rather below the average height of +woman. She writes so much in favor of Japan +that the freedom of the hotels is offered her. +After the third day of smooth sailing we anchor +in the Yang-tse-kiang, as one writer says, "a +stream of lofty dignity of conscious might." +Broken short ridges of mountains are seen +from a distance, with valleys and plains interspersed. +The great plain lying on the sea coast +is alluvial, made so by the deposit of the Hoang-Ho +and the Yang-tse-kiang (Broad River) combined. +The former river often bursts its confines, +causing great destruction to life and property. +The mouth of the Yang-tse-kiang to-day +is far removed from where it was many years +ago. The Hoang-Ho is for the greater part of +the year unnavigable, owing to floods during the +summer months, the disasters being so great it is +sometimes called the "Chinese sorrow." Fish +abound and is the flesh food of the average Chinaman, +although pork is his delight. The mode of +fishing is varied; often men and boys dive for +them, but the more entertaining method is by the +cormorant. A dozen or more of these trained +birds are perched on a bamboo pole across the +bow of a boat, but before diving, a cord is +placed around their throat to prevent them from +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</a></span> +swallowing their prey, and they rarely fail to +bring up one or more fish. Their eagerness for +success is most noticeable, and they are rewarded +after having satisfied their owner, by being given +some of the small fry. Our steamer anchored +fifteen miles off of Shanghai, and our heavily +freighted tender was two hours reaching land. +The harbor was filled with bright colored sailing +vessels, junks and sampans, stern-wheel +kickaway and chop boats; also the bateaux of +the "Tanka" girls who work the ferries. The +form of the natural eye painted on these vessels +is most apparent; the reason for so doing is, +the Chinese will reply, "No eye, no see."</p> + +<p>We at once contrast the well-built and improved +bund which skirts the water's edge with +the less pretentious Japanese ports. It is not +until we enter the Chinese quarters, with its +low dwellings and apparent squalor, that we +realize what the English concessions are to the +traveler. The dress of the Chinese is refreshing +to the eye after our sojourn in Japan, where +among the coolies little was left to the imagination.</p> + +<p>The drive to the "Bubbling-Well," a square +enclosure of stone some eight feet in dimension, +reveals a spring of water whose surface was +green with slime, from which issued two clear +streams of pure crystal fluid. Well-dressed, +painted Chinese women, guarded by eunuchs, +drive in landaus along this fashionable drive, +which leads to club houses and well laid out +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_32">[Pg 32]</a></span> +grounds. The tiny feet of the women as they +peep out from under the richly embroidered +gowns assured us that navigation to them on +foot was almost impossible. This process of deformity +is begun about the sixth year of their +lives and rarely fully accomplished before the +seventeenth. The suffering is said to be intense. +Government has in many provinces interfered, +and as civilization advances it is to be hoped this +cruelty will be abolished. A missionary told me, +in appealing to the Chinese, "to desist from this +vain and sinful habit, they would at once retaliate +by replying, 'Why do American or European +women deform their waists?'" The rough, uncultivated +fields attached to the homes along the +drives we are told are burial places of their dead. +Mere hillocks of earth, so scant as to allow the +caskets to be seen plainly, and oftimes skeletons +protrude. Do you wonder that epidemics prevail? +The warning is constantly given the travelers to +keep away from native quarters, but curiosity +leads us into temptation. Warehouses, manufactories, +shops, theaters, dwellings and temples +are crowded together; the streets offensive and +disgusting. The shops for silks in the English +concession are most fascinating. Beauty of +coloring and quality, with most unique designs, +are offered at such low prices that one must +have great control over herself to resist buying +in quantities. The better class of Chinese +are most elaborately gowned in these gold embroidered +textures—far more costly than the +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_33">[Pg 33]</a></span> +simple embroidered kimonas of the Japanese. +The absence of jewelry in the latter makes the +love of it with the Chinese most conspicuous. +Anklets, imitation of jade and silver bangles are +always in evidence.</p> + +<p>Jugglers throng the piazzas of the hotel, and +for a trifling compensation will swallow a sword +three feet long which he flaunts before our eyes +and which disappears to all appearances down +his throat with great strangling; this we do not +ask him to repeat.</p> + +<p>A charming sail of three days brought us into +the harbor of Hongkong. The city is built on +the mountainside; a narrow strip along the +water's edge is laid out in a fine driveway, warehouses, +hotels and club houses facing the water. +The dwellings, with beautiful gardens attached, +are built upon the terraces of the mountains, +which can only be reached in sedan chairs, +borne by coolies. The botanical gardens are +most attractive and are within walking distance +of the hotel. Alongside of these gardens is the +St. John's Cathedral, in Gothic style of architecture. +The clock tower is a conspicuous building +from which all local distances are measured. +On the summit of the mountain overlooking the +city is Victoria Gap. An inclined railway, +worked by means of cable to an elevation of +fourteen hundred feet, leads to it. It cost the +city 140,000 Mexican dollars, and pays about five +per cent on the investment. The round trip is +fifty cents. The views are grand in extent, but +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_34">[Pg 34]</a></span> +it requires considerable nerve to face the apparent +danger. However, we find ourselves +on the summit in an incredibly brief space +of time. The ten square miles of harbor +is spread out before you with its myriads +of vessels and floating hospitals. The enjoyment +of this scene quite repays one for +the undertaking. Queen's road (the principal +street of Hongkong) runs parallel with the +water; from this street, running toward the +mountain, the grade is uphill. We ascend stone +steps, twenty to thirty in number, to reach the +street beyond; consequently we do not frequent +them often. Flowers are in profusion for sale +and most artistically arranged. The drive to the +"Happy Valley," the burial place of the European, +Parsees and Mahometans, each within their +own walls, is indeed aptly named. We were preceded +by two sedan chairs borne by four coolies, +each dressed in red kilted skirts and white turbans. +The occupants were two small boys, eight +and ten years of age, with their amia, or nurses, +who bore quantities of lovely flowers. On alighting +we followed them to two freshly made graves; +from these the boys removed decayed flowers and +placed most lavishly those they had brought with +them. It was a touching sight. We imagined +the parents had been the victims of a scourge that +was still hovering over the city. It is a trying +climate. The American consul, Mr. Hunt, from +Tennessee, called upon us, and we returned the +visit at his home, nestled among the palm trees +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_35">[Pg 35]</a></span> +and alongside the botanical gardens. His family +were feeling the effect of their protracted sojourn +here and yearned for a change.</p> + +<p>The distance from Hongkong to Canton is +ninety-five miles by the river. We were somewhat +surprised to find the captain of our vessel +from Prairie du Chien, Wis., whose family +was still residing there. It is said that a population +of 300,000 people live in boats upon these +waters and have no other home. With the baby +on her back the mother swings the heavy scull, +while the other children act as ducks in the +water, some being tethered to the vessel, apparently +without any sense of danger. At the slightest +indication that one of these boats are needed, +fifty or more will rush to the spot, clambering +in loud voices for their rights; while the wonder +is that the baby's head does not roll off of +its shoulders. The mother is seemingly indifferent +as to its existence. Along the shores of +the river are rice fields and orchards, interspersed +with pagodas, which from a distance +look like hanging gardens. Chance wind bears +sand and seed to these overhanging roofs, and +shrubs and flowers grow and bloom. Whampun +and Homan, two lofty pagodas, made famous by +their age and height, are seen from the steamer, +and an occasional dead body of a Chinaman +floats by us. As we near the landing of Canton +small boats filled with lepers come alongside +soliciting alms. They are most pitiful in appearance +and, judging from the coins thrown them, +it is the only means of their maintenance.</p> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_36">[Pg 36]</a></span></p> + +<p>Guides are in waiting at the steamer's wharf, +and we only feel safe when protected by them. +Six chairs with four men each, made up our van. +Mr. Wilder, of Honolulu, had joined us. These +coolies groan as they trot along. With the +thermometer about 80 and no clothing save the +loin cloth, they stop only long enough to change +the pole from one shoulder to the other, which +are lacerated and in great welts. If it were not +for the novel sights that meet the eye the sympathy +aroused would be too trying for the traveler. +Canton is called the "City of Rams," or the +"City of the Genii." These names are derived +from the supposed visit of fire-protecting spirits +that came from heaven two thousand years ago. +It is the chief trading city of southern China. +Foreigners first visited here in the eighth century. +In 1568 the Portuguese were in China, and in +1615 the Tartars invaded it. We passed through +what is known as the Tartar town; it was neater +and cleaner than the other quarters. Later the +East India Company took possession and for a +century and a half controlled the foreign trade. +The British invaded the city of Canton in 1841 +and took possession, but the ransom of six +million was made for its redemption. Again in +1857 the allied forces of British and French captured +it, and for nearly four years it was in the +hands of foreigners, its government being administered +by a joint commission. It has now its +European concession. Canton is a typical Chinese +city, the contracted streets, not exceeding six feet +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_37">[Pg 37]</a></span> +in width except in spaces where some official residence +or temple is built. It is with great difficulty +we make any headway through these narrow +lanes, and are often compelled to leave our +chairs and with our guide pursue our way on +foot. If by chance a shop is entered a gaping +crowd so surrounds you that you are not only in +danger of being robbed, but of losing your +guide. The foreign quarters are separated from +the mainland by a stream of water connected +by two bridges. A wall encircles the native +quarter and the gates are closed at night and +guarded; the discharge of firecrackers in the +early morning announce their opening, and from +the river boats another discharge, almost deafening, +which is supposed to keen them from the +"evil one" through the day.</p> + +<p>The Temples of Confucius, Buddha and +Shinto religions are much alike in their construction. +One of the most famous of these is that of +the five hundred Genii, founded in five hundred, +the year of our Lord, and was rebuilt forty years +ago. In the midst of these immortal five hundred +images is that of "Marco Polo," who visited +here in the twelfth century. The Temple of +Horrors, whose tableaux in brass and wood represent +the punishments meted out to those in +Buddha's purgatory, boiling the culprit in oil, or +grinding him in a mill, or still worse, to place +him in an upright position between two planks +of wood and then sawing him in pieces—all these +pleasant reminders are heightened by the reincarnation +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_38">[Pg 38]</a></span> +against the will of a man's soul into that +of a wild beast, destined to another life here on +earth, which is too realistic to dwell upon.</p> + +<p>The Examination Hall, where all males from +eighteen to eighty years of age may compete for +honors, is well worth a visit. Stalls are built for +12,000 students, in which are placed a table and +chair. Once the man is seated there is no release +for three days. A strict watch is kept to +prevent any communication; even if a death occurs +a hole must be knocked in the surrounding +wall to transport the body, for under no circumstances +are the gates opened during the trial. +A subject for an essay is given, and each applicant +is forced to render an example of his ability. +Less than two score of these receive degrees, +and from this examination they go to a higher +court in Pekin and there high honors await them +in official positions. No caste is observed. The +water clock, built five hundred years ago, is +composed of three copper vessels placed on top +of each other with an indicator in the lower one. +The passing of time is indicated by the raising of +the water in this lower one, into which trickles +the same fluid from those above. The prisons +seemed crowded; the inmates were chained to +stones or bars of iron, all apparently in one large +hall, separated from the spectators by upright +bars of iron. When we approached they made a +rush toward us as well as their heavily burdened +limbs would allow, and begged for money with +which their freedom could be bought. The yoke +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_39">[Pg 39]</a></span> +some wore was most torturing. I could think only +of Dante's inferno. The execution grounds was a +most grewsome place, about twenty-five feet +long and ten or twelve feet wide, used daily for +drying and storing pottery. The prisoner was +made to kneel, bowing his head, while the executioner's +ax did the work. We saw a head +which had been decapitated before our arrival. +From the wall of Canton we could see mountainsides, +which seemed to be one vast number of +graves, whose entrance were in the form of a +horseshoe. In the city is a building they call +the "Old Man's Paradise." It is kept up by the +wealthy class. The remains of the male dead +can be left here for five years, incased in a huge +lacquered wood coffin, costing $1,500. Under it +is placed plates of lime to prevent white ants +from destroying the wood. Before the coffin is +a drop curtain to shield it from the gaze of the +passer by, in front of which is an altar decked +with tinselled flowers; beside this is an empty +chair, around which are grouped wooden images +supposed to be the servants of the departed master +waiting his return, with rice and tea prepared +and placed near by. A couch for a servant who +guarded the body was occupied each night. The +place was rather attractive than otherwise. We +lunched upon the walls of Canton in a deserted +building, but old with memories. We visited +some shops where the crepe, for which the +manufactory is noted, can be found in almost all +colors, some beautifully embroidered, for moderate +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_40">[Pg 40]</a></span> +prices. The markets are disgusting with +the skinned rats and bloody fish which are +offered for sale, and a few days' sojourn amidst +such surroundings satisfies the traveler.</p> + +<p>On our return to Hongkong (the port from +which we sailed) the sight of the French steamer +"Melbourne," which was to bear us on our journey, +was an agreeable vision, although on that +line of steamers little is done for the pleasure of +the passengers. We took on at Saigon the Governor +of Siberia, his wife and secretary; also the +Siberian Minister to China, with his wife, with +many Russians. The ladies of the party were +handsome, and often regaled us with their beautiful +voices. A Japanese colonel, who had by +his feats of bravery made himself famous, sat at +my right at the table, and it was with great interest +I listened to him telling of his trip on +horseback from Russia on the Trans-Siberian +line to China, which took seventeen months to +accomplish, with the use of three horses. The +extreme cold of Siberia, 45 degrees below zero, +with those sluggish people, made the days he +spent with them most memorable. He averaged +twenty-five miles a day, traveling through grand +forests, and, as daylight continued till midnight, +he was enabled to travel much at night during +the summer months. He was in the employ of +the Japanese government. We afterward met +him at Cairo. Two days out from Hongkong +(Oct. 19, 1895) we skirted the Island of Hainan, +which is separated from the mainland of China +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_41">[Pg 41]</a></span> +by the Gulf of Tonquin, and passing the Empire +of Anan we enter the St. James River, eight degrees +north of the equator—Far. 83. The river in +width is about forty rods, the banks of which on +either side are covered with dense jungles. The +mango and banana tree were strangely intermingled +with vines covered with flowers, while +groups of monkeys keep up a perpetual chatter +and bright plumed parrots were seen at every +turn, to say nothing of the wild boar that were +hid among the jungles. The low thatched huts +along the shore, surrounded by the waving palm +tree, looked rather attractive at a distance. The +dress of the Coachin-Chinamen consists of long, +loose flowing trousers, with a black or white +robe falling from the shoulders, and a red or +white turban on their heads. The heat at Saigon +in October was oppressive, and we were advised +to keep aboard the vessel till late in the evening. +Our ride to the botanical gardens over +smooth roads of red clay in the jinrikisha, with +a bright turbaned coolie, was most picturesque +amid the perfection of tropical growth of plants +and trees. Convoys of storks, plumed golden +pheasants, the Coachin China chickens, cages of +monkeys, leopards and bears all amuse and entertain +the traveler. Saigon is a French concession +and has at least 100,000 inhabitants. Late +in the afternoon the Governor General of +Coachin China boarded the vessel with his son. +Citizens in their white duck suits and pith helmets +and soldiers escorted him to the steamer +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_42">[Pg 42]</a></span> +in their bright uniforms with great ceremony to +bid him bon voyage to France to negotiate a +loan in behalf of a projected railroad. The governor +wore the decoration of the Legion of +Honor and was most dignified in his bearing.</p> + +<p>A smooth sea and fair breeze made the next +two days and a half fairly enjoyable, but the heat +was overpowering at times; the nights were +spent by many on deck, where the firmament +could be enjoyed, as the Southern Cross was +seen in its great beauty. Singapore, the next +stopping place, afforded us a fine drive in a chariot +through the country. These vehicles seat comfortably +four persons, a charioteer, who drove, +and an outrider seated behind. Their turkey-red +calico sacques, with a white cheese cloth skirt and +high red turban, gave them a showy appearance, +while the diminutive animal which drew us in +the most submissive fashion plodded his way over +the well-rolled roads of red clay. The tropical +growth of trees and shrubbery almost hid from +view the bungalows of the better class of people. +These buildings were one story in height, surrounded +by wide verandas, the roofs of which +were thatched with huge palm leaves, while the +bamboo split in two formed excellent gutters to +convey the water to the ground. Dates hung in +profusion upon the trees alongside of the road, +and bananas half as long as your arm were offered +you, the taste of which is very unlike ours. +The palm and rubber trees grow like the forest +trees in our own land. The red and white arbiscus, +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_43">[Pg 43]</a></span> +running wild over trees and house, with the +ox-eyed daisy, almost as large as the sunflower, +and the marigold, which is the flower that the +Indian idolater uses in his worship, grows in profusion +here. The abundant moisture from frequent +showers, followed by a blazing sunshine, +produces that tropical luxuriance for which this +portion of the Orient is celebrated. To sit upon +the steamer's deck at early dawn one sees close +to the horizon in the north the Pole Star, in the +south a few degrees higher the constellation of +the southern cross is in full view, while on land +the scene of the greatest activity is at this +hour. The rude cart, drawn by cream-colored, +humped-back, reversed-horn cattle, driven by a +coal-black Tamil in a bright red turban and perhaps +a loin cloth, lends interest to the picture, and +the superb shoulders of the natives are well exhibited, +as they unload from barges drawn close +to the steamer's side huge sacks of coal, which +they heave to one another till they reach the hold +of the vessel. This is performed mostly by +women with a weird chant of "heave ho" that +seems to render the task less irksome.</p> + +<p>Singapore was purchased by the British. It +is the greatest tin producing country in the +world. Sago is grown in quantities and shipped +to every port; it is the pith of the tree trunk. +Here the gum of the rubber tree is gathered and +dried in chunks, placed in gunny bags and sent +to all quarters of the globe in the crude state. +The rattan, which is elaborately woven by the +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_44">[Pg 44]</a></span> +natives into chairs and other useful pieces of +furniture, is light in weight and capable of great +endurance. The tree grows like a palm to a +great height, throwing above ground long +tendrils extending a half mile. These are cut in +lengths of thirty feet, soaked, scraped and ready +for use. The indigo bush is cut and dried, then +boiled, the sediment forming the dry substance +exported. Tea is also cultivated successfully. +Mangoes, yellow as pumpkins, in shape of pears, +with disagreeable flavor, but most in favor with +the natives, as well as the children of adoption, +are the Dorean fruits, with custard-like contents, +offensive to the smell, but agreeable to the taste. +The business portion of the city is substantially +built, but we were told that the use of opium, +like the Upas tree, casts a blight on this fair +country and its inhabitants. We invited a missionary +to dine on the steamer with us. He conducted +a boys' school of 600 pupils. The building +cost $20,000, built by local contributions of +the English and Chinese. They practice the +Salvation Army methods in gathering audiences +for Bible instruction, and those who accepted +Christianity closely adhered to their vows.</p> + +<p>We now enter the straits of Malacca, as +smooth as a river, but clouds and showers render +the atmosphere low and depressing. We +meet on the steamer those who have spent years +in this climate. A lady from Holland told me +that it was so exhausting that life was almost +unendurable. She spoke of the Queen of Holland, +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_45">[Pg 45]</a></span> +the young "Wilhelmina," and of her +mother, the Dowager Queen Emma, now acting +as regent. She was the second wife of King +William of Holland, and had this only daughter. +He had three sons by his first wife, all deceased. +This present widow was a German princess, and +at this time (1895) was thirty-four years old and +her daughter fifteen. It was very evident from +the conversation of this Holland lady that Germans +were in disrepute with her people—the +Holland Dutch. From the straits we run into +the Indian Ocean, "with a wet sheet and a flowing +sea, and a wind that follows fast." To forget +the swell I take up a sensational novel, "The +Old Love and the New," but that influence is +not enough to drive away mal de mer, that soon +gets the better of the passengers and drives us +to our cabins. Four days of sailing brings us +to Ceylon's shores, where we fail to catch the +spicy breezes of which we have so often sung. +We are on deck early to realize the descriptions +given of the southern coast of this island, then +turn northward and round into the harbor of +Colombo. The hotels and government buildings +are located along the quay. The forest of cocoanut +palms and the lofty peaks of the mountain +form an impressive background. Ceylon +is two-thirds as large as Ireland and is in possession +of the English. Some English writer has +said "that in the train of England's conquests +comes the broadest, wisest and most tolerant +statesmanship the world has ever witnessed. To +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_46">[Pg 46]</a></span> +be humbled by her is to be exalted by her." +There seemed a good feeling between the natives +and their rulers. The Oriental Hotel swarms +with people of all nations. Breakfast is served +in your room, consisting of coffee, toast, fruit +and sweets. Luncheon is a hasty meal, but +dinner to the foreigner, served at 7 or 8 p. m., +seems thoroughly enjoyable. The Englishman, +dressed in black trousers, broad sash-belts of +black or red silk, which seems to make more pronounced +the smooth shirt bosom, with a spotless +white pea-jacket, forms a refreshing costume. +Ladies almost invariably are in low-neck black +dresses, with a broad piece of white lace which +droops gracefully as a bertha, with bright +flowers in their hair, while a band of stringed +instruments makes the scene enlivening. The +broad arcade from which you enter the dining +hall is after dinner filled to overflowing +with guests seated around small tables, +where brandy and coffee is served, and is the +harvest time of the tradesmen, who are allowed +to spread before you their embroideries, laces, +jewels and baskets of curious workmanship and +bright colors, together with elephants of ebony +and ivory. Close to the entrance of the hotel are +jugglers with their baskets of cobras, whose +poisonous fangs have been extracted; together +with the dwarfed trees which miraculously grow +before your eyes, and divers tricks are performed +to entertain the stranger and to earn for themselves +a scant livelihood. The Singhalese and +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_47">[Pg 47]</a></span> +Tamil women, men and children, whose features +seemed carved in ebony, are of the <ins class="corr" title="original had 'Ayran'">Aryan</ins> race—so +different from the Mongol Malay race. It is +amusing when riding to be followed by the native +children crying "No papa, no mamma, no +rice." And when these claims are recognized +they laugh immoderately and wait for other +persons to attack with the same pathetic appeal. +A drive to the Cinnamon garden, in the midst +of which is a fine museum with a rare collection +of sea urchins; these fasten themselves to a +rock, in which with their black, stiff, cigar-shaped +feelers they dig a cell, resembling machine +work so accurate are they in their measurement +to fit their bodies. Here we are shown +the original tooth of Buddha, which looks more +like a small tusk of an elephant. This is placed +under a glass cover; the sea-horse suckling its +young, the myriads of birds, besides every wild +beast of the forest are finely preserved. The +bungalows of more wealthy inhabitants are built +along these beautiful drives, and are almost concealed +by the dense foliage, and must necessarily +be damp, as the sun's rays can scarcely enter. +We are offered neatly bound bunches of camphor +wood and cinnamon by children on the +road, but which have little aroma left. The men +are athletic in appearance, erect and graceful, +hair black and curly. The Singhalese wear a circular +shell comb to confine their glossy curls. +The men are semi-clad; the women wear low-neck +corset covers with an ample strip of cloth +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_48">[Pg 48]</a></span> +that is pinned around the body for a skirt, which +shows the ankles with their silver anklets, +while the black neck and arms are adorned with +gilt beads and bangles, the nose and lobes of the +ear being pierced and fairly weighed down with +jeweled rings. The deformity is appalling +among the lower class; their only compensation +is that the stranger never passes them by +without bestowing some gift, denoting their +sympathy. We are in Ceylon in the tail end of a +monsoon (October 30). Such sheets of water, +deluging alike streets and people, are scarcely +heeded—so soon do the sun's rays dry up the +roads. We take a cart drawn by two bullocks, +goaded by a small boy, who sits on the yoke and +so close to the animals that one can scarcely detect +his mode of thrusting a sharp steel instrument +into the body to make them move, but this is +his great incentive, as he easily could outwalk +them; it is the novelty that attracts, not the speed. +We are landed close by the market, where all +fish, fowl and vegetables are sold. We purchase a +bunch of Betel leaves, neatly piled one upon the +other. The nut of the same bush is cut into small +pieces, mixed with a teaspoonful of slackened +lime, and a little tobacco or more often opium. +This mixture laid upon a leaf is rolled and we +are asked to try it. We give that pleasure to +our small boy or guide. One of these leaves +will be material enough for two or three hours' +pleasure, and the coolie is seldom seen without +this delectable morsel in his mouth. He seldom +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_49">[Pg 49]</a></span> +expectorates but seems to swallow the fluid, +which is like red ink in color; the habit is most +disgusting, but assuages hunger.</p> + +<p>We frequently see on the children's naked body +a cord around the loins. The placing of this is a +religious ceremony, with a religious signification. +The drive along the beach is grand, and the roads +smooth. The crowds of English and Australians +taking their evening outing, cheered by the music +of the military band and stimulated by the dashing +of the breakers on the sea-girt shore add to +the pleasure. If you are walking you are waylaid +at every step by some drummer who represents +his own or the shop of some one whose jewels are +displayed in the greatest profusion. Sapphires, +diamonds, rubies and pearls and other stones are +shown the customer until the eye fairly wearies +of the sparkle. If you decide not to purchase +them but to call again, woe be to you if you do +not keep your word, as you are followed and the +cry of "Lady, come back, you promised!" becomes +a trifle wearisome.</p> + +<p>To visit Kandy, situated eighteen hundred +feet above the sea, in the mountains of the +interior of Ceylon, we take passage on a railroad +of marvelous engineering. To quote a +traveler's words may give you some idea of +the beauty of the views obtained: "As one +skirts the flanks of the mountains and looks +down into an enormous gorge, its sides clad +with the most beautiful and varied foliage of +flowers and trees, and on the level bottom +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_50">[Pg 50]</a></span> +lands can be seen cascades, which are formed +by the artificial lakes that overflow the exquisitely +delicate green of the young rice." Our +attention is directed to the Tollipot tree, which +flourishes for sixty years, and blooms just before +it dies. The bloom is at the top of the tree +and reminded me of huge bunches of pampas +grass. The distance from Colombo to Kandy +is seventy-eight miles. Roundabout this region +live the tea planters with their families. +Kandy is a resort, during the summer season, +for the inhabitants of the lowlands, and is +built on the shore of a charming little lake, its +banks shaded by the Tamarind and royal palms. +The vine-clad bungalows add to its attractiveness. +Within sight of the hotel is the Malagawa +Buddhist temple, the most sacred of the +shrines of Buddhism. We are again shown +an actual tooth of the Deity, two and one-half +inches long and one inch wide.</p> + +<p>On the evening of our arrival a great festival +was held at the temple. The procession +was headed by eight standard bearers, dressed +in full white skirts, followed by eight more +in red costumes. Their waists were uncovered. +They bore aloft flaming torches, followed +by the most fantastically dressed musicians +beating drums and dancing in a frantic +manner. Close behind these were the +"Devil dancers," four in number, whose +skirts of gay-colored silks were elaborately +studded with jewels and turbans to match. +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_51">[Pg 51]</a></span> +These skirts were so full that when making +their convolutions they looked like inflated +balloons. The contortions of their bodies were +painful to witness, and as the reflection from +the torches lit up their faces one could but feel +they were aptly named. Three elephants +walked abreast, most gorgeously apparelled, +and moved with a dignity most surprising. +They wore jewelled masks, their bodies enveloped +with jewelled mantles, while on the back +of the center animal rested a gilded cage, in +which, in a pagoda-shaped vessel, was the sacred +tooth. Following the elephants were +more drummers, more Devil dancers and other +elephants, whose huge tusks were incased in +gold. Each animal was closely guarded by +his keeper, while riders sat astride in the most +gorgeous-colored skirts and turbans. The +chief man of the temple, representative of the +old Kandy kings, rivaled Falstaff in his appearance. +He wore a full white skirt, a large +white hat, with a white mantle or cape thrown +over his shoulders. His dignified tread was +akin to that of Jumbo, and was greeted by all +along the procession. We were told he was +the banker of the village. During the August +festival the procession is much more impressive, +as three hundred elephants are in line. +The festivities ended by a feast at the temple. +Along each side of the entrance the +poor of the village sat with their empty vessels, +which were to be filled by those in authority. +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_52">[Pg 52]</a></span> +Buddha was most conspicuous on the +altar of the temple, carved woods and ivories +surrounding the image, where later a dance +was performed; but we were too unholy to be +permitted to remain and witness it. A description +of the Paradeniza gardens would be like +attempting to picture to one's imagination the +Garden of Eden. The two hundred and fifty +varieties of palms, the bamboo, one hundred +feet high and growing in clumps one hundred +and fifty feet in circumference, give some idea +of the tropical growth. We see spicy cinnamon, +the chinchona, the upas tree, the latter +bearing to a great height its lofty head, not unlike +a palm in growth, with its bark gray and +spotted like a snake. It is not indigenous to +the soil, but comes from Java, where its dense +groves are called the "Valley and Shadow of +Death," and when I stood under its shade without +knowing the tree, I will confess a superstitious +fear came over me when I was told by our frightened +guide that I was in danger. The candle tree +produces a fruit shaped like a candle, but not edible. +The traveler's palm gives the thirsty traveler +a refreshing drink when an incision in the +stem of its leaves is made. Cocaine grows in profusion, +while alongside, coffee and tea plants and +nutmegs and other spices grow apace. The +Jacqueminot and La France roses grow to the +size of saucers, while the orchids fasten themselves +like grape vines over wooden props, beautiful +and varied in color, and are native to the +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_53">[Pg 53]</a></span> +jungles, brought therefrom and sold by coolies +to the traveler for a pittance. The governor's +palace is beautifully located. From its windows +we gaze upon a beautiful river, while the +grounds are watered from the spray of fountains. +The palace was unoccupied and we +were permitted to go through its spacious +rooms and halls. The drives all about Kandy +are fascinating, and are made more so by now +and then a temple hid almost from sight, but +of interest when visited, while the industrious +weaver of straw mats, a yard and a half in +length and a yard wide, meets us along the +way, urging us to buy—a temptation we cannot +resist, although we wonder what we shall +do with them when we get them. But +adieux must be made to Ceylon, with its spicy +breezes, for the "Steamer Pekin" lies at anchor +off Colombo which is to bear us over 1,300 +miles to Calcutta, the voyage only broken by +a short stay at Madras, where a brief visit is +long enough, for the heat and dust are oppressive. +We see the juggernaut car lying in disuse +on the roadside under a temporary covering +of a palm thatched roof. A most cumbersome +vehicle, the wheels of which are so closely +set together that one can imagine the poor +victims over whose body it rolls, could easily +be reduced to powder. Government interferes +in its further usage, save in territories not +easily managed. The official buildings are +European, but the homes of the natives are +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_54">[Pg 54]</a></span> +of burnt clay, with no windows—a small open +door reveals its inmates stretched out sleeping, +almost devoured by flies. The filth of the quarter +makes it uninviting; the botanical garden +is hardly worth the ride there. We take the +only small vessel in use to carry us back to +the steamer awaiting us in this beautiful +Bay of Bengal. The governor's house is +lofty in appearance, the exterior dingy from +dust and dirt, but we are told the household +appointments are magnificent, the decorations +partly in the oriental and some of them in +European style; servants by the score, hundreds +of coolies who do nothing but keep the +Punkas (swinging fans) in motion in every +part of the building by day and night. The +natives of Madras are quite dark in color, with +straight hair and regular features, diminutive +in stature, slender forms, with small hands and +feet, and have a pensive look and manner. The +deformity among the beggars is revolting, and +we fear to alight from our chariot, lest we +may come in contact with these poor, unfortunate +beings. We learn that the wheels of +government move slowly in these oriental +countries. If an audience with the governor +is desired, a book is given you in which the +name of the solicitor is registered. At the +end of two weeks the governor gives notice +that he will give a public breakfast at the +palace, and those who have registered their +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_55">[Pg 55]</a></span> +names will be received and their requests will +be heard. Time seems not to be considered +of any import.</p> + +<p>The calm waters of the Bay of Bengal, with +its southern breezes, makes the journey pleasant, +as the traveler seeks his extended chair +on deck of the steamer, protected from the +scorching sun by its broad awnings. On entrance +to the Hoogly River, a native pilot +comes aboard—for here the ever-moving sands +render navigation uncertain and perilous—until +the dangerous sand bars of the James and +Mary rivers are passed; every sailor must be +at his post as the steamer wends its way +through the treacherous channel, and each +passenger silently congratulates himself when +he is assured the Rubicon is past. The bottom +of these rivers is a vast quicksand. +The vessel entering must await the tide. The +banks are low and sandy. Straw thatched +huts, shaded by clusters of date palms, gave +a picturesque appearance to the shores, and +the tropical growth grew richer and more +dense as we approached Calcutta. The excitement +on arrival of the steamer is intense; custom +house officers present themselves: all +baggage is ordered from the cabins on deck, +even to the smallest hand-bag; search is made +for fire arms: strict laws regarding them are +enforced, and if you are unfortunate enough +to have one in your possession, as was one of our +party, you are quickly relieved of it, and only +by paying as much as the original price, with +much red tape, are you enabled to regain it.</p> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_56">[Pg 56]</a></span></p> + +<hr class="chap" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_57">[Pg 57]</a></span></p> +<h2><a id="INDIA"></a>INDIA.</h2> + +<p>India, in 1892, had a population of 300,000,000. +The area of the land on which they live is +equal to the United States, east of the Rocky +Mountains of Colorado. Much of it is uncultivated; +other lands yield crops under irrigation. +The soil in places has become exhausted by use +without manure. Between monsoons (that is, +periods of no rainfall), these regions cease to +produce and there is a scarcity.</p> + +<p>Regions cultivated by irrigation are enhanced +in value, for the products bring better prices, +but when rivers and tanks dry up from which +water for irrigation is drawn, then scarcity becomes +a famine, where the rain has failed. +There are two annual crops in India; the former +inferior grade is used for home consumption, the +other for export. Of the army, seventy thousand +strong, forty per cent are incapacitated by diseases. +Civil servants are superannuated at fifty-five +years of age and are sent home on a pension, +seldom enjoying life longer than two years afterward.</p> + +<p>Seven per cent native males read and write; +only one per cent native females can read or +write. The different castes will not intermarry +and will not touch each other's food.</p> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_58">[Pg 58]</a></span></p> + +<p>Calcutta is a city of 500,000 inhabitants, +of these, 14,000 are Europeans.</p> + +<p>The streets of the English concession are +broad and well laid out. Fine hotel buildings, +banks and storehouses line the main thoroughfare. +The hotels have broad verandas extending +from the second floor, over the sidewalk, affording +a cool resting place for the guests, and +would be most acceptable were it not for the myriads +of insects that cover you. The protection these +porches afford at night to the natives who, wrapped +in their cotton blankets, lie closely huddled together +along the sidewalk, while scarcely leaving +room enough for a pathway for the pedestrian +serve to exempt them (the natives) from the +dews of the night. The palace of the viceroy, +centrally located, is surrounded by beautiful +grounds, with magnificent shade trees. It is built +upon the grand esplanade, three miles in length, +and skirts the water's edge. From the hours of +5:00 till 8:00 p. m. this grand avenue presents +a lively appearance, for all the elite of Calcutta +seems gathered there. Handsome victorias +drawn by beautiful horses, coachmen and footmen, +with their bright turbans and oriental +dress, lends enchantment to the view and reminded +one of the display Aladdin made when +he went to claim his bride. In the Garden of +Eden, near by, a band of forty native musicians, +well trained, discourse sweet music—the +latest European airs. During the performances +all vehicles must remain in one position, +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_59">[Pg 59]</a></span> +thus affording the scores of flower venders +opportunity to move noiselessly roundabout +the carriages, offering the beautiful orchids, +camellias and roses, for a small pittance, +to the occupants. To say nothing of toy +monkeys, which one cannot resist buying. +The European residence quarters lie along this +beautiful, sun-baked road. The houses are +large and well built, with the luxuriant surroundings +of tropical growth that almost hide +the homes from view. On every veranda is +the tea table, with its urn or samovar; all English +observe the hour of 4:00 o'clock to serve +the necessary stimulant at home and abroad. +The city is supplied with water from the +Hoogly River, gathered into large reservoirs, +and filtered. The Esplanade is sprinkled by +the native coolie, who, from his well-filled +goatskin, moves gracefully in a surpentine +fashion over its well rolled surface; while the +streets in the business portion are watered +from carts managed by women. A visit to the +crematory at the early dawn—the hour set +apart for burning their dead—is interesting, +but horrible, to witness. A building of 100 +feet is located upon the bank of the river. At +intervals of ten feet on its earthen floor are +trenches, dug the length of a body; they do +not exceed two feet in depth, if that. In this +excavation is placed some clean straw and +sandal wood with myrrh and sweet perfumes. +Upon this is laid, first crosswise and then +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_60">[Pg 60]</a></span> +lengthwise, sticks of cordwood, and a fresh +bed of straw, upon which the body is laid. The +body of an aged woman was brought in for +cremation while we stood there. It was +wrapped in white cheese cloth and rested on +the bed upon which she died, which is their +custom to burn. It is the length of the body, +made of rope interlaced; at each end are two +small wooden legs which support the wooden +sides and are, in height, like the old-fashioned +trundle bed. The winding sheet was removed, +the body anointed with oil and rubbed with +saffron powder. The face, which was most emaciated +and betrayed great suffering, was completely +besmeared with this mixture. The body was +then placed face downwards on the pile. Being +somewhat longer than the bed prepared for +it, the limb from the knee was bent towards +the body. The cracking of the dry bones was +most grewsome. The body had a fresh wrap +of cheese cloth thrown over it, the face having +her caste designated by lines of ashes on +her forehead, made by a priest, and sticks +of cordwood were placed crosswise and then +lengthwise so close together that the entire +body was concealed. A pitcher of water from +the sacred Hoogly River, nearby, was brought +and thrown over the pile. Then the nearest +relative of the deceased ran violently around +the body seven times, crying in a loud voice +to the gods that another soul was awaiting reincarnation, +while a wild-eyed, maniacal-looking +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_61">[Pg 61]</a></span> +priest took up a huge bunch of straw and +made the circuit seven times, giving vent to +the most uncanny wail, when the son or husband +of the dead touched the burning torch +to the straw underneath; soon all was ablaze. +The mourners, a few women, withdrew, and +a man, whose office it is, stood near by, and as +the arms or legs or pieces of burning wood +fell, would replace them with a pitch fork. +Scores of bodies were brought in that morning, +but seeing two cremations was all we needed +to make an indelible impression not easily +eradicated. It requires about two hours to reduce +the body to ashes, or a granulated substance, +when it is gathered and thrown into the holy +river, and the excavation is made clean for another +body.</p> + +<p>The Ghats or sacred steps leading down to +the waters of the Hoogly are in the same vicinity. +Throngs of bathing pilgrims, of both +sexes, were gathered for their morning ablutions. +After wading out nearly waist deep, +they would place their hands reverently together, +and apparently after a prayer with +great earnestness, dip themselves three times +into the water, and those who had flowers (the +marigold seemed the favorite), as they prayed +would cast them upon the waters one by one, +then scour their feet, rinse their mouth and +wash their garment, filling a brass vessel which +hung to their side with the holy water, and proceed +to the well situated under a Boho tree at +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_62">[Pg 62]</a></span> +the head of a Ghat, when they would sprinkle +the diminutive gods that were placed there. +Priests stood in readiness with paint and +ashes and made upon their foreheads the +mark of their caste, for which they received +a compensation. At a time during the +eclipse of the moon, 100,000 pilgrims often find +their way to this holy water. It seems as if half +their lives are spent in making these pilgrimages +in these eastern countries, and if they die +far from the holy stream, they are cremated +and their ashes sent to some priest, whose office +is to make the consecration before sprinkling +them on the sacred rivers.</p> + +<p>We turn from this scene, not wishing to obliterate +the memory, but to forget for awhile +in other and perhaps no less disgusting scenes +in the native quarters. We are warned to +make our visits few, for contagious diseases +lurk in these narrow streets and among these +filthy people.</p> + +<p>We enter narrow lanes, in these quarters, +flanked on either side by tumbled-down +houses. We are in pursuit of pearls. Strange +surroundings for such beautiful gems. We +are led into a narrow hall and up a long +flight of steps of stone, so worn by the tread +of time that we could scarcely keep our foothold. +We reach a chamber fronting on a court. +The floors are covered with padded matting +over which were sheets spread. Kneeling, or +rather squatting on these were natives busily +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_63">[Pg 63]</a></span> +employed sorting pearls. Before each were +piles of different sizes. The wonderful dexterity +displayed by these coolies in separating +the large, medium and smaller seed pearls from +each other in parcels, by or through the sense +of touch of the index finger, seemed to convey +to their minds weight and size.</p> + +<p>A table or counter was in one end of this +room, behind which were seated dignified patriarchal +looking dealers, and evidently owners +of the establishment. We were shown diamonds +of such weight and brilliancy that fairly +bewildered us and dazzled our eyes. Emeralds, +sapphires, and pearls of different colors +(black, pink and white), the former of +such size that we almost doubted their genuineness. +Evidently we were in a wholesale +department, for while there, there came in foreign +buyers collecting many of these precious +stones. Prices were fixed. The dealers were +in touch with the world's market, and values +ruled accordingly; there seemed no chance to +barter. Our address is taken when we decline +to purchase, which means that we will be followed +to the hotel by a native who will there +unfold the wonders of India's product again +to us—specimens even more tempting than +those shown in the shops. Our lack of confidence +in ourselves as experts and a growing +distrust of the dealer makes a breach between +buyer and seller. In these places where gems +are kept the stock ofttimes seems meager, and +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_64">[Pg 64]</a></span> +we manifest our disappointment, but are at +once assured that their supply is large, but at +the present time the rarest and most costly +have been sent to some Maha Rajah who +makes regal purchases, and those he declines, +perhaps from his sufficiency, are returned for +sale to those whose love for gems is weighed in +a balance with their purse.</p> + +<p>An English lady artist who was solicited +to paint the portrait of one of these Rajahs in +his own palace, and to abide in the premises +during her time of labor, told me her powers +of description failed her in the attempt to portray +to others what the coffers of these rulers +of provinces contained, and with which they +adorned themselves on state occasions, and +to convey to canvas their beauties, would have +been the work of the Hand that created them.</p> + +<p>Calcutta, city of palaces, has a number of +theaters, one of which we attended. The +evening was warm; the audience quite large. +In the gallery sat parties in groups; over each +stood stalwart coolies, in whose hands were +held a long-handled palm-leaf fan. Not for +one moment did they falter, but with an unerring +movement, gracefully and uninterruptedly +handled this cumbersome article, which +must have had a soothing effect. The play +was not well supported; now and then was +pleasure or displeasure manifested by the audience +in a loud voice speaking, we were told, +direct to the actors. After the play was over +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_65">[Pg 65]</a></span> +(by the way, it was long drawn out) the foyer +rapidly filled and great hilarity prevailed. +Full dress, now in evidence among the ladies, +and gentlemen with their tall silk hats and +boutonierres looked most like English swells, +while those in Oriental dress were not eclipsed +in brilliant coloring.</p> + +<p>The insect life in Calcutta was most annoying. +Before going to the theatre I had left a +small flicker from the gas jet in my room and +the windows open. What was my dismay on +returning to find the originally whitewashed +walls of my apartment of a dull grey appearance. +I doubted if my steamer trunk had not +been transferred in my absence to a more +sombre looking chamber, but on my appeal to +Brahma, my servant, who lay at my door, he +assured me that it was innumerable shad flies +(as we would call them) which had been +caught by the glare and had lined walls and +ceilings and covered my bed spread. Dust +pans and brushes were in requisition, counterpane +shaken, and lace mosquito netting +drawn down and tucked in before I felt like +retiring for the night. To attempt to read by +an overhanging light was simply impossible, +for the print of paper or book would be completely +obscured by these pestiferous creatures, +and when we sought an outside veranda +that we might, in the darkness, at least, carry +on a conversation, they would fly down one's +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_66">[Pg 66]</a></span> +throat, when we opened our mouths. Imagine +what a sacrifice this was to be compelled to be +dumb, when we had so much to say.</p> + +<p>In traveling through India a body servant +is indispensable. He lies at the door of your +sleeping apartment, waits upon you at the +table, buys your ticket, cares for your baggage +and divers other attentions are rendered by the +patient but most indolent Mohammedan. We +are advised not to employ a Hindoo servant, +as they refuse to serve flesh or fowl to you at +the table; according to their religious belief, +it would be pollution.</p> + +<p>At 9:15 p. m., Nov. 18, 1895, we find ourselves +in a most comfortable compartment car, +with shower bath and other conveniences. +Alongside, but not connected in a way that +we could speak to them only by calling from +the car window or door, was the apartment +designated for servants. They lie down at +night on the floor with an extra cotton wrap, +which is used for the purpose, and I fancy +they use their turban for their pillow. To our +party of four we were entitled to an entire +compartment, and no intrusion can be made +en route, on our privacy. On either side of +the car are long, cushioned seats, well upholstered +and covered with dark green leather; +over these are suspended corresponding ones +which, if not in use, are thrown to the ceiling, +where they are made secure. At the one end +is a shorter seat (width of the car) and at the +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_67">[Pg 67]</a></span> +opposite side a door leads into a toilet room. +The traveler provides his own bedding, which +consists of pillows or cushions, and steamer +blankets or shawls. The nights are cold, but +the heat through the day, were we not in motion, +would be insupportable, together with the +dust that arises along the road, for lack of +rain, adds nothing to our comfort. Our coolies, +if called upon to roll up our bedding, whether +from lack of inclination or from physical weakness +we know not, would look morose, or call +in, if at a station, additional help to share in +the labor, and never fail at the end of the day +to ask for compensation for the annas expended +on their co-workers.</p> + +<p>I could better appreciate the statement made +by an English missionary from the Isle of +Wight that he kept sixteen servants in his own +household (and he was a bachelor); that no +one coolie would perform what he himself +considered to be the work of two men. I must +confess to their indolence, but it appeared to +me a trifle extravagant for a dependant upon +the missionary board. He was a most agreeable +gentleman, however, and I am under +many obligations for a prescription which enabled +me, when I had it filled, to accomplish +my sight seeing, and travel in India, our own +remedies having no effect in that country +or climate. In returning to the question +of manual labor: the working of the "punkas," +or swinging fans, alone required many +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_68">[Pg 68]</a></span> +men, to keep the air in motion for the comfort +of people. In the hotel dining room these +fans were hung on wires, stretched at intervals +the entire length and breadth of the salon, say +five feet apart. The material used was a white +or drab drilling (cotton cloth) made into +huge box plaits; wire or rope was attached +to and drawn above these punkas to holes in +the wall, which separated the dining room +from a corridor. There sat, or rather squatted, +a dozen, more or less, coolies with these +wires either in their hands or fastened to their +feet, and would sway to and fro, causing a vibration +in the air that was most acceptable in +these warm climates, while eating.</p> + +<p>The native coolies are neither scrupulously +truthful nor honest, indolent to a degree, rather +sullen, but to all appearances submissive. They +are fond of stimulants, more especially opium +and tobacco. In traveling you are under the surveillance +of your servants, fearing you may make +some purchase without their knowledge, causing +them to lose a commission to which they +feel themselves entitled for having directed your +steps or <ins class="corr" title="original had 'attenion'">attention</ins> to the shop of the dealer.</p> + +<p>They receive their stipulated wages, traveling +expenses defrayed by the employer, but added +to this is a constant appeal to your sympathies; +for instance: "I am just in receipt of news from +home. My son is lying (great stress on son) +very ill. My mother has no money to employ +a doctor. What am I to do if the good lady +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_69">[Pg 69]</a></span> +will not assist me to send some help to her?" +It has been proven that these same applicants +have no family and have recklessly spent their +allowance in riotous living on their journey. +We have to provide a winter outfit if it is cold, +such as a night blanket of cotton cloth, and some +clothing—for during the heated term clothing is +unnecessary—and pay for the return trip to +their home, without we find travelers going the +same route we have just taken, and if the servants +have merited a recommendation we give +it to them and are thus relieved ourselves. We +found one of the tricks of the trade was for +the coolie to secure a returning party—we +will say, to make ourselves lucid, from Bombay +to Calcutta—but to keep the matter secret +from us so that we might give them a return +ticket, which they could easily sell. In spite of +our experience there must be some good and +true natives, for her majesty, Queen Victoria, +has for her closest body-servant the Indian, +chosen for his submission and faithfulness.</p> + +<p>Our journey to Benares was at night, because +of the freedom from dust and heat. The early +dawn found us awake and peeping out of shutters +for a sight of the country through which +we were passing. The stations are well built, +and crowds of natives, men and women, flock +there on arrival of trains, offering for sale flowers, +sweets, fruits, the cocoanut, lemons and a +sort of banana. At your desire the cocoanut, +nicely scraped and clean, will be broken so that +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_70">[Pg 70]</a></span> +you may quaff at your leisure what must be to +them a delicious cool drink—a little goes a +good way with me. It is well to be supplied +with plenty of their small coin, for they are so +slow in making the necessary change that the +car has proceeded on its way before they have +accomplished the task.</p> + +<p>The experience of one of our party was a lesson +to us. A gentleman from California, desiring +some nuts or fruit, gave in exchange a +pound in gold—all he had at hand. The train +started, but all in vain were his protestations; +the speed increased, and what was most provoking, +was to see at a safe distance the naked boy +running, apparently, trying to overtake us, but +laughing immoderately at the joke—he will get +his reward. This reminds me of a story to the +point. On one occasion in my own native land +I had an appeal made for help for a poor family. +Having often allowed my heart to run away +with my head, I determined this time to be +forearmed. So I visited the house of distress, +found things clean and tidy, but cupboards empty +and a man in bed, supposed to be the husband +of the woman who had sought my aid. It was +with apparent difficulty he spoke to me. I hurried +to order from the adjacent market a full +supply for several days. After exhausting my +strength I felt myself unable to go farther into +the city where I could replace an undershirt his +loving spouse said had been stolen from the +clothes line, and his need of a change was most +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_71">[Pg 71]</a></span> +pressing. On my way home, tired and footsore, +I resolved to call on a neighboring friend +where gentlemen were more plentiful than with +me, and ask for cast-off underwear. On interrogating +me, my friend laughed to see my distress, +and informed me it was an old trick of +the woman. The sick man was a perfectly +strong, well man—and rarely was the same man +on exhibition. Alack, for me! I had, during +the day, met our pastor, Mr. Monroe Gibson, +and begged that he might call at his earliest +convenience, lest the dying man might go out +of the world without a prayer, for his soul's +salvation. In the twilight I retraced my steps +to tell Mr. Gibson how, in common parlance, +"I had been sold." After a sympathetic look, +he in his Scotch brogue said: "Well, never +mind; you remember the man who put a crown +in the contribution box where he intended to +put a penny and, on retiring from the church, +went to the man who had charge of the alms +box and told him that he had made a mistake. +The pastor did not offer to refund it, but simply +said: 'Brother, you will have your reward in +heaven'" (for a good intention, not for the +amount given).</p> + +<p>Low mud houses, hid among the palms, afforded +shelter from the sun during the noonday +hours. Men, women and children, the former +and latter nude or scantily clad, grouped +together along the road; the faces of the women +were partially veiled. The scene is rather picturesque, +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_72">[Pg 72]</a></span> +with the chatter of the monkeys and +the singing of bright plumaged birds. They +lend some animation to the otherwise barren +prospects. We learn there are common schools +throughout the country for the male population, +but women are uneducated except in religious +art and duties. Government no longer +tolerates the wife sacrificing her body on the +pyre of her dead husband; but death is preferable +to a life of widowhood, owing to the self-denial +forced upon her by his family.</p> + +<p>The climate of India is conducive to economy +in clothing, as little, if any, is needed. The diet +of the native would be starvation in a cooler +clime. A mud hut gives the needed shelter, +and the offal of the animals, dried in cakes on +the sides of their hovels, give them sufficient +fuel to boil their rice and other vegetables. The +masses have never known anything but oppression; +they are apparently kind to man and beast. +We never heard any wrangling, nor witnessed +any street brawls. A native will step aside, +rather than tread upon an ant, which is the pest +of the country.</p> + +<p>Benares is sixteen hours' ride from Calcutta, +a distance of 450 miles. We find there Clark's +Hotel patronized by tourists, on the outskirts of +the city, a refreshing looking spot and most restful +bungalow. We rested under the cool shades +of the palm trees until a favorable hour, and then +drove to the "Holiest of Holy Cities," situated on +the Ganges river, once alike holy to the Buddhist +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_73">[Pg 73]</a></span> +as it is now to the Hindoo. The sacred, the +three-fold divine river, runs, according to their +religion, through Heaven, Hell and Earth. To +die on its banks, and to have one's ashes thrown +upon its bosom, is a through ticket to Paradise. +Troops of men, women and children, tired and +footsore, are met wending their way to the +shrines. To bathe in the Ganges is to wash away +all sins.</p> + +<p>Crowds throng the narrow, dusty streets; +the women rather gracefully attired, with a profusion +of silver ornaments, ear-rings, nose-rings, +bracelets and bangles; the men nude or +with a scant loin cloth. The houses are built +of clay, sun baked, some of brick, stuccoed, +ancient as time in appearance, unfit for habitation, +but are grouped among the shops and temples +in close proximity. The monkey temple +is especially interesting, surrounded by well +wooded grounds where the monkeys frisk and +frolic all day long and are fed by an admiring +crowd, who regard them as sacred animals. +These temples are reached by a long flight of +stone steps, which I found myself slowly climbing, +when, without warning, I was rudely pushed to +one side. On looking around, I saw a diminutive +grey cow ascending the steps with great dignity, +and it was the contact with this animal +that had so shocked me. I quickened my gait, +and in my attempt to get out of the way. I +rushed into the first opening that met my view, +which proved to be the entrance to the temple +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_74">[Pg 74]</a></span> +grounds, set apart for these sacred cows. The +animal was close beside me and I vaulted like a +school boy to a neighboring ledge of rock. I +became agile from fear, but the fright occasioned +by the cow's triumphant entry was nothing +to the brandishing of arms of the natives +in charge. I was brushed aside like a fly in the +sacred enclosure, where no heretic was allowed +to enter. Truly, I felt far from home! Garlands +of marigolds, kept fresh at wells of water, +are sold to devotees to lay at the feet or to +encircle the gods of brass and stone that are +seen in every direction. We are not permitted +to enter a Hindoo temple, but get a glimpse +in passing of their tinselled gaudiness. This +seething caldron, where beasts usurp the rights +of men, women and children, who are all bowing +down to objects of wood and stone, is a +sight one may long for—but once in a lifetime +is quite satisfactory, and we gladly withdraw.</p> + +<p>The early dawn of day finds us driving +through the already crowded streets on our way +to the "Ghats." Boats lie in readiness to convey +us along the sacred shore of the Ganges, +for but one bank is consecrated; the opposite +shore seems a dreary waste. For miles homes +and sacred structures are reared; here and +there massive ruins attest the powers of the +Ganges' floods on solid masonry. From a distance +it is picturesque, but on close inspection +has a most dilapidated appearance. The well-built +stone steps, or Ghats, are crowded at this +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_75">[Pg 75]</a></span> +early hour with pilgrims and devotees wrapped +in their white robes. They wade out into the +holy stream, bowing and drinking double hands +full of water, so nauseous in appearance, and +taking off from themselves garlands of marigolds, +throw them on the surface of the water, +then wash their mouths, and return on shore +for certain ministrations that the priests stood +in readiness to perform for them, which seemed +to complete the purification. Their caste was +manifested by certain marks made with ashes +or paint on their foreheads.</p> + +<p>From the upper deck of our small steamer we +overlook the ceremony of cremation, not unlike +that we had seen in Calcutta. The bodies +were wrapped in crimson-colored cheese cloth +and laid upon a rude bier composed of two +poles, laced together with rope; so near the +water were these bodies placed that the feet +were completely covered. We were told that +very sick persons were brought when dying, and +the immersion in the holy water would bring +about a reaction, and restoration to health would +ensue. No mourners were around the body, and +those who ministered at the cremation were +ostracized socially, being considered unclean +for a certain length of time, and are of the +lowest caste. The sheik who has charge of the +burning has the ashes thoroughly sifted to secure +any jewelry that may have been on the +body, and as theft is often committed by the +men employed to rake up the ashes, great disputes +arise in consequence. +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_76">[Pg 76]</a></span></p> + +<p>The colossal form in stone of the "God +Beem" lies prostrate on the ground, and women +in peril of childbirth come in throngs on moonlight +nights to pray for the safe deliverance of +a son; girls are at a discount in the Orient. We +saw a man stretched upon a bed of spikes, paying +penance for some sin committed, or to find +favor by self-abnegation with his god. When +we appeared, incredulous as to the actual facts, +the man arose to show the pierced flesh and the +sharp points of which his bed was composed. +The upholding of an arm until the flesh withers, +and the limb stiffens, is most revolting. These +devotees allow their finger nails to become, so +extended that they look like claws, or more like +the roots of a tree seen in Ceylon, which lie on +top of the ground. We are privileged to visit +the palace of the Maha Rajah, which is quite a +distance from Benares and on the unconsecrated +shore of the Ganges. Numbers of naked +coolies run along the shore, pulling with all +their strength on the ropes attached to the +boat. When we arrive opposite the palace we +are transferred to a raft, which is rowed and +pushed to the landing. The gloomy structure +rises before us, and the approach to it is rather +intricate, through courtyards much littered up +with debris. As we enter with our guide, we +are informed of the Rajah's absence from +home, but we are permitted to wander through +rooms most inhospitable in appearance. A few +pictures adorn the walls and some handsome +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_77">[Pg 77]</a></span> +bric-a-brac is scattered here and there. We are +told that the Rajah himself is most hospitable, +and much more would have been shown us had +he been at home. The great attraction in making +this visit is to see the hundreds of elephants +and tigers he has in his possession, but "the +shades of night were falling fast" and we declined +any further delay.</p> + +<p>Our trip to Benares was much more rapid +on returning. We floated down the Ganges +by moonlight; it was a grewsome scene. We +were gathered together on the deck of our steamer, +while our guide, at our feet, was beguiling +the weary hours by his weird tales. Visions of +crocodiles, awaiting their prey, float before our +eyes; lights from the shore grew indistinct, and +our little group most abject; but the landing +place at length was in sight, and we had kept +our carriage awaiting our return. We were +driven through dark, narrow streets to the garden +of a temple, where lived the holy man of +Benares. We remained in our vehicle until our +guide ascertained whether we could have an interview. +It was 9:00 p. m., but being American +tourists, we were admitted. He was a man apparently +sanctified by his mode of living, not +unlike that of Buddha. He was emaciated, and +as we approached him, he arose from his cot +not entirely nude, but a simple loin cloth was +his only clothing. A canopy was above his +bed, and that was his home, day and night. He +is a profound Hindoo scholar, and without +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_78">[Pg 78]</a></span> +doubt will be canonized after death. His manner +toward us was most cordial and especially +towards the one of our group who hailed from +Chicago. He spoke through an interpreter, saying +that the governor of Chicago had called on +him before the World's Fair, urging the holy +man to visit him at the time of the exhibition, +but he could not think of ever leaving India. +He then sent for his book of registration and +showed us the name registered as Carter H. +Harrison. We were asked to write our names, +which we did, and were then offered by an attendant +fruits and given a book containing his +own life to date. He was born in 1833, married +at twelve years of age, and was a father at eighteen. +Like Buddha, he withdrew from all natural +ties and set himself apart for a religious life. +When asked if he did not feel the cold night air +to be injurious, his reply was in his graceful +gesture pointing heavenward, and in his signal +language made us understand that under a watchful +eye no harm could befall him.</p> + +<p>The country from Benares to Lucknow is +but little different from what we have already +passed, though the distance is 190 miles. Population, +250,000. Manufacturers of carpets, rugs, +gold lace and embroideries are found here, and +seemingly the natives are interested in their +employment, but are poor and oppressed. The +remains of mausoleums and palaces attest former +grandeur before its ownership was absolutely +in the hands of its conquerors. Hotel +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_79">[Pg 79]</a></span> +accommodations are poor. We drove to the +park to "Leeundea Bagh," where during the +mutiny of 1857 two thousand mutineers were +killed within two hours—Sir Colin Campbell +under command. The residency was built in +1800 by Sahondah Ally Kahn. During the +mutiny it contained only 927 Europeans, who +were besieged by the rebels. Shot and shell +marks are to be seen in the walls. The Fort +Mueks' Bhawan, built during the famine as relief +work at great cost, is of much interest; also +a museum filled with objects of curiosity. Lucknow, +famous in song, ran through my mind as +we looked in vain for a Lalla Rookh, the imaginary +character of the poet Moore.</p> + +<p>Cawnpoor, thirty miles further on, with 130,000 +inhabitants, presents large industries of +leather work, rice mills and jute manufactories. +The drive to the beautiful park, which now +crosses the battlefield, is most interesting. The +stately monument of pure white marble, surmounted +by a female figure, with widespread +wings, and in each hand a palm of most exquisite +workmanship, combined with gracefulness. +An English officer stands near by ready +to give you a brief but graphic account of the +mutiny. The monument stands on the spot +over the great well, into which were thrown +alive 700 men, women and children, who were +hurled into it in one day by the order of Nana +Sahib. A beautiful memorial church not far +away has been erected in memory of the loved +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_80">[Pg 80]</a></span> +and lost. We enter during vesper hours; such +perfect peace and quiet reigns in and around +this sacred spot, where many English men and +women were gathered at the service. It seemed +so isolated to me so far from home. The drives +in the vicinity are fascinating, yet the rice fields +were beginning to grow scarce and less grass +was seen. We journey on. Wheat fields appear +more frequently; apparently no demarcation +between land of different owners. +Trees are scarce, but the excrement +of cattle is sun baked and used for fuel. +The homes of the people are mud-walled pens, +huddled together, surrounded by walls of the +same material. This grouping of homes, such +as they were, attracted our attention all along +our journey. This is evidently for protection. +No isolated farm houses, with the comforts of +life, were in evidence.</p> + +<p>The pay of the laborers who construct the +railroad is three annas a day (2¼ cents); an +English-speaking servant will get 34 cents a +day (one rupee and four annas) for food. We +do not realize how thickly settled the country is +in traveling on the railroad, but by and by we +see the mud-walled village again with its hundreds +of inhabitants, who rush out on the approach +of the train, the women and children +crying piteously for backsheesh. The wealth +and strength of the past ages is now seen in +their morgues, mausoleums and palaces, many +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_81">[Pg 81]</a></span> +of them wrecks of their former beauty, but +patience and long years of toil are evident in +their crumbling walls.</p> + +<p>The Punjab country lies between the five +great branches of the Indus River. The men +here are magnificent specimens of physical development. +The Sikh soldiers are the handsomest +known. We see them acting as policemen +at Hongkong, and we stop to admire +their erect carriage and military tread. There +is one defect, however, in the anatomy of the +men of India; they have no calves to their +legs. The Sikh is less servile than any other +tribe, hard fighters, but attain to more or less +civility in their contact with Europeans.</p> + +<p>Our next stopping place to Benares was Aigra, +so full of interest; namely, the Fort; the Pearl +Mosque, the imperial palace, built by Abkur, +the grandfather of Shah Jehan; the palace +of wonders; its walls inlaid with agates, topaz, +tagula and other more precious stones. The +rooms set apart for the harem women are exquisitely +beautiful. The oriental imagination +must have lost itself in the construction and +adornment of this palace. The apartments +built for his favorite wife, with a boudoir and +marble baths—the water furnished for the latter +was delicately perfumed—and walls, mirrored +with small pieces of glass, looked like +the firmament in its brightness, but it remained +for Shah Jehan to astonish the world +with the mausoleum built for his (not the most +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_82">[Pg 82]</a></span> +correct) wife. The Tag Mahal, the tomb of his +sultana, Montag Mahal, is the most beautiful +creation in marble in existence. We are told +she was beautiful; her devotion to Shah Jehan +was proverbial, and his for her idolatrous. Her +dying request was that her husband should +never take for himself another wife, and in her +memory should build a tomb that could have +no rival, and one that all the world would admire. +"Tag" is a pet name of endearment; +"Mahal" means great or beautiful; "Montag +Mahal," the chosen of the palace. In the words +of another I will describe the Tag Mahal, as I +know no more fitting words to use. "Passing +through a majestic Saracenic arch, eighty feet in +height, supported by two abutments of sand +stone, on the panels of which are carved passages +from the Koran, is a long vista +of cypress trees, shading a marble +paved canal, on either side of which are +beds of flowers and crystal fountains. At the +end of this magic avenue stands the "Tag" on +a terrace; at either corner of this square is an +edifice of sandstone, with a dome of the same +material. The "Tag" is built of polished white +marble, its oriental dome shaped like a globe, +tapering up into a spire surmounted by a golden +crescent. The platform upon which the +"Tag" is placed is a square of 313 feet each +side and eighteen feet in height. From each +of the corners rise four lesser domes of the +same matchless marble, forming graceful minarets. +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_83">[Pg 83]</a></span> +By moonlight and by sunset we gaze +upon this Arabian night or day dream. "A +thing of beauty is a joy forever." Italian, Sarascenic +and Persian are all suggested in its +architecture, and we are told that Shah Jehan +expected to build for himself a tomb of black +polished marble within sight, but on the other +side of the River Jumna, but the depleted state +of the treasury caused alarm in the mind of +his son; fearing he would be impoverished, he +made his father a prisoner in the imperial palace. +We stood in the room wherein he had lain +in his dying hours, and gazed out of the windows, +as he did, upon the beautiful vision +which was within his sight, his last wish was +gratified, and his earthly vision failed in the view +he had of Montag's tomb. He looked out beyond +the Jumna, as the western sun's rays kissed +the pure white marble, reflecting on its polished +surface—the reflex it may have been of a +heavenly vision, vouchsafed only to those who +pass the portals.</p> + +<p>Delhi, the next station en route, notwithstanding +the dust and heat, has its attractions. +The Bungalow Hotel is kept by an Englishwoman +who, with her sons, had a number of +hostelries in India and along the tourist line +of travel. This one offered but few comforts. +The proprietress assured me that they would +soon build a good hotel, as travel demanded it. +She evidently had received a telegram that we +were on our way from her son's place, at +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_84">[Pg 84]</a></span> +whose table we had sat at Aigra. She sent +her private conveyance for us to the depot, +and received us herself with some cordiality, +and was much gratified to learn of our pleasant +memories of Aigra, with its tombs, temples, +and its exquisite embroideries—the best +we saw in India—woven of the finest texture +and wrought upon with such delicacy that we +could scarce realize that the dark, swarthy +fingers of those poor native Indians could +work out such marvels. We bought handsome +table decorations in embroidered satin and bemoaned +that we did not get more, after we +were too far away to retrace our steps.</p> + +<p>One of the attractions of Delhi is the tower +of Kutah Mina, rising to a height of 240 feet, +divided into five stories, built of red, buff and +pink sandstone. The column, or tower, is of +fluted architecture for most of the height, and +decorated at intervals with layers of white +marble slabs. We were told it was built for a +favorite daughter of the ruling monarch, that +she might, from its height, view the Holy +River Jumna, which was at a great distance +from her home. According to the tale told +us, this tower must be ascended before +she broke her morning fast. Near by stands +the iron pillar, nearly a foot and a half +in diameter and over forty feet high above the +ground. It is a solid shaft of malleable iron, +the natives claim its foundation is laid in the +center of the earth. To see the tower and iron +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_85">[Pg 85]</a></span> +pillar necessitates a ride of eleven miles +through dust and dirt and but little of any interest +along the wayside. We visited the +tomb of Johanara, the daughter of Shah Jehan, +who shared her father's captivity. Pure in +spirit and humble she chose a plain block of +marble or alabaster, to cover her grave, +screened by a delicately wrought white marble. +The epitaph inscribed on her tomb reads:</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Place naught but one green herb above my head;<br /></span> +<span class="i05">This alone befits the poor and lonely dead."</span> +</div></div> + +<p>Pious monks keep fresh grass on her tomb; +a slab at the head of the grave bears this inscription +in Arabic: "God is life and the resurrection." +The shops are attractive and we +find and purchase some ivories and, if one +cares for the likeness of Shah Jehan, they will +be able to purchase paintings in miniature of +him and his wife, done on porcelain. Whether +or not true to nature, we are unable to judge. +Beautiful pink pearls are shown us. How often +I have regretted not buying some of them; we +never found them so perfect after leaving Delhi. +The enameled bracelets are shown in great variety, +and yet we pass them by.</p> + +<p>Jeypore is a typical Indian city, twelve hours +by rail from Delhi. The streets are wide and +well watered, the houses of stucco, gaudily +painted in hieroglyphic designs, are two and +three stories high. In the middle of the streets, +at intervals of two or three squares, are stone +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_86">[Pg 86]</a></span> +wells, around which rested diminutive gods of +wood and stone. In the early morning hours +the natives lay an offering of flowers before +these idols and wash their hands or faces in +the water and go on their way rejoicing. Innumerable +pigeons, regarded as sacred, swarm +in the streets, where they are fed.</p> + +<p>We spend Thanksgiving day (November, +1895) in Jeypore, sight-seeing, our hearts longing +for the dear ones at home. In our wanderings +we met a wedding party. The bride, +we are told, was twelve years old, the groom +twenty-one. They were seated in a gaudily decorated +car, drawn by oxen. A scarlet canopy, +with India shawl draperies, hung gracefully +down and almost concealed the little veiled +lady; she wore a scarlet wrap. The groom +elect, sat Turkish fashion, wore a tall hat +and looked most solemn. We entered a +bazaar, where bronze and lacquer were for +sale, together with ancient armor, kept by +one Mr. Zoroaster, a man of distinction. +While on the second floor of the building, +overlooking a court-yard, some gaily +dressed veiled women came in and began to +beat their tomtoms. Mr. Zoroaster remarked: +"It is only on great occasions that my sister +ever leaves her home. It is she who is below, +accompanied by her women in waiting, and +have come to bid my family to the wedding of +her daughter." He told us the bride and groom +were wealthy, and that her father was to give +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_87">[Pg 87]</a></span> +a feast to five thousand people on this, their +wedding day. He, Mr. Zoroaster, told us the +dress of his sister for the occasion cost 2,000 +rupees. It was crimson, embroidered in gold, +a fluted skirt; many yards in width. Her +bracelets and bangles were studded with jewels. +The band played as the procession moved +slowly through the streets.</p> + +<p>The palace of the <ins class="corr" title="original had 'Mahah'">Maha</ins> Rajah was opened +for inspection; the rugs were rolled; the furniture +covered and, as the Rajah was away from +home, things seemed neglected. Pigeons were +stalking around and in the palace, and rare +birds of bright plumage seemed to the manor +born as they stood or flew in and out at their +own sweet will. Hundreds of elephants were +kept on these grounds and owned by the Maha +Rajah. It was an imposing sight to see these +clumsy but dignified animals with their oriental +trappings and painted ear flaps. The coloring +was most harmonious. Horses innumerable +were in the stables and were with their +care keepers, making ready for their daily outing. +It is a scene, when elephants, horses and +tigers are led through the streets and, perhaps, +witnessed nowhere else in such regal +splendor. Camels stalked through the highways +with their burdens; panther dogs, led by +their masters, strolled leisurely along; in fact, +one might feel it was a gala day and a menagerie +on exhibition. There are public cages +here; lions and tigers can be seen within the +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_88">[Pg 88]</a></span> +city's limit. Around these cages, where the +crowds gather, come the poor, wretched, deformed +beggars, heart-rending to gaze upon—to +say nothing of the loathsome lepers, which +were more hideous than the wild beasts.</p> + +<p>A school of fine arts, sustained by the rulers +of Jeypore, was well equipped with men and +boys, who were industriously and skillfully +beating and moulding brass into useful and +decorative articles. Pottery, and especially +lacquer work is carried on, we were told, to a +greater degree of perfection than elsewhere in +the world.</p> + +<p>It was at Jeypore we saw the Nautch girls, +kept by the Maha Rajah for his own amusement. +Our guide would have us believe +that we were greatly favored in this, our +opportunity. One hour spent with them was +quite enough, and cost us six dollars, a ridiculous +expenditure. However, we have started out to +see the sights; this is one of them. We were +taken to a house and led up to the second story +back porch, we might call it, overlooking a +gloomy courtyard. A white quilted rug was +thrown upon the floor. Three native girls appeared, +dressed gorgeously in knife-pleated +skirts to the knees, embroidered in gold. On +their heads were thrown beautiful grenadine +scarfs, drawn gracefully over their shoulders. +Coronets studded with jewels, with ear-rings, +bracelets and bangles resplendent with +dazzling gems. Three women stood behind +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_89">[Pg 89]</a></span> +these girls, advancing and retreating, keeping +time with their rude musical instruments. They +move their bodies in a most disgusting manner +from the hip down, while they attempt to portray +great intensity of feeling. In a short time +they became very familiar, and disposed to be +very flirtatious with the gentlemen of our +party, taking off their bracelets, ear-rings and +other ornaments and attempted to place them +on their wrists or hang them on their ears. +They, in return are anxious to secure a ring +or any ornament we wear. They are repulsive +and full of evil, judging from their looks and +actions. They were roughly spoken to by an +old, grey-headed woman, who evidently had +them in charge, and, we thought, was urging +them to offer us wine or refreshment, from +which we could not escape before paying, but +we had been forewarned and hastily withdrew, +our guide settling our bill, while we hurried +into our carriage. In their gyrations they +would represent snake charmers, kite-flyers and +divers and other mysterious movements that +were anything but graceful.</p> + +<p>Our visit to Amber, a city of ruins adjacent +to Jeypore, was made partly by carriage and +the ascent of the mountain by elephant to +the winter palace of the Rajah. A small ladder +was attached to the howdah on the back of the +animal, and one by one we climbed and took +our seat, two on one side and two on the other—back +to back. While making this climb the +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_90">[Pg 90]</a></span> +huge elephant knelt, all four feet doubled under +him. When we were seated he arose. The +motion was not pleasant, but all fear was dispelled +by the two faithful coolies who walked +on either side of Jumbo and directed his footsteps +with an iron probe. We reach the palace, +after a tedious ride, and to alight was a +feat, but we were quite repaid by the interior +views. We were too late for a sacrifice +that had just been made of a sheep or +lamb; saw nothing but a sprinkling of blood +and the dying embers, or ashes, upon which a +portion of the animal sacrificed is cooked for +the priests in attendance. The walls of the +palace were most unique. Doubtless, while the +plaster was still wet, pieces of mirror, the size +of a 25-cent piece were imbedded in it, and so +thickly studded were these walls and ceilings +that the effect was brilliant. The rooms were +large and orange trees grew apace where a +spot of ground appeared. The ruins of Amber, +which we overlook, seemed the haunts of fakirs, +naked and covered with dirt; with their +thin, long hair matted, hanging over their +shoulders or on their faces. These fanatics, +in their self abnegation, are looking for their +reward in Nirvanna, where they think only those +enter who from self-denial purify themselves. +Our return down the mountain seemed perilous, +but our sure-footed Jumbo forbids fears +and where his instincts failed the goad of the +native caretakers seemed effective. We found +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_91">[Pg 91]</a></span> +it a slow mode of traveling, but sure. We +could but admire the oriental coloring of Jumbo's +ear flaps; they were those of a superb India +shawl. On the wayside we saw altars for +sacrifice and to imitate blood was rude bespatterment +of red paint or a like mixture. I +wondered if their religion taught them that +this is emblematic of the blood that cleanseth +from all sin. I could not learn from inquiries +made of my guide.</p> + +<h3>BOMBAY.</h3> + +<p>The trip from Jeypore to Bombay was the +most tedious of any made in India, as we made +no stops. It took us from 10:30 p. m. Monday +till 8:30 p. m. on Wednesday. The road was +monotonous and dusty; however, the nights +were cool and comfortable. Our compartment, +although commodious, was covered with, it +seemed, the dust of ages, but on pointing it out +to our stupid servant he immediately took off +his turban of white cheese cloth and mopped +with it the seats and floor, shook off the dust, +literally, and replaced it in form of a turban, +slightly changed in coloring. The chiaroscuro +was striking. The meals obtained at the stations +were most unattractive.</p> + +<p>Bombay is built upon an island, although +the separation from the mainland is scarcely +perceptible. The waters of the bay are studded +with islands, and the harbor is capacious +enough for the commerce of the world. The +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_92">[Pg 92]</a></span> +beautiful road skirting the bay leads to Malabar +Hill, upon which are the homes of the +foreign officials, and upon this boulevard is +the exquisite statue in white marble, most delicately +carved, of Queen Victoria in her palmy +day appearance, when youth and hope make the +countenance brighter. This statue was rudely +defaced during the recent plague (1899) by +unknown hands. On the summit of Malabar +Hill are the Towers of Silence, surrounded by +a grove of palm trees, with well laid out +grounds. On either side of the entrance to +these towers are chapels on whose altar burns +the unquenchable fire and in whose purification +the following of Zoroaster believe.</p> + +<p>There are eighty steps to ascend to reach +these towers, the place where the Parsee dead +are deposited. Four carriers support the bier, +followed closely by two long-bearded men (who +alone enter the tower, handling the corpse with +tongs and gloved hands). Fifty or a hundred +men follow, two by two (clothed in +white, with the funnel-shaped hat worn by +the Parsees). One peculiarity of this solemn +procession was the tying of the +right and left hand of each couple, which +had some religious signification. A short burial +service is held in the chapel and then the +body deposited at the foot of a ladder that +clings to and reaches the door of the tower. +This aperture is about five feet from the top +of the tower, wherein lies a gridiron circular +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_93">[Pg 93]</a></span> +in form, ready for the dead. The tower is +cylindrical in shape, built of strong masonry, +at a cost of from $100,000 to $150,000. There +are four of these in the enclosure; the largest +is twenty-five feet high, and from eighty to one +hundred feet in diameter. A deep well is underneath +the tower, and as the flesh is consumed +by the vultures, which are perched close +beside each other on top of this circular wall, +the bones fall into a deep well (subterranean), +where by some chemical process they soon dissolve +and pass off through a conduit to the sea. +The voracious vulture is so gluttonous over the +amount of food brought for their consumption +that they frequently become so gorged that +they are unable to fly back to their perch from +the grating. There is nothing visible that is +revolting, and no odors are emitted. The winding-sheet +used on and dispensed with on depositing +the body in the tower is burnt; in this +way there are no remains of impurity. The +Parsees worship one supreme God, and revere +the sun and fire only as manifestations of the +Deity, and never fail to show their adoration +when the sun is declining below the horizon, +by stretching forth their hands and bowing to +its expiring rays, thus acknowledging the +teachings of Zoroaster, their leader.</p> + +<p>Bombay has a mixed population. Besides +the native Indians are Persians, Arabians, Abyssinians, +Syrians, Turks, Greeks and people +from the Island of Madagascar, and—last and +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_94">[Pg 94]</a></span> +much in evidence—the English. The Parsees, +the most respected sect, vie with the educated +Hindoo in establishing charity schools and hospitals, +and both are alike represented in the +legislative councils. The more opulent of the +Parsees educate their sons at Cambridge and +Oxford, and generally are great travelers. They +dress in European costume, but never at +home lay aside their Parsee hat, so characteristic +of the sect. We were told it is never +discarded by day or night. Caste does not +separate them and animal food is not forbidden.</p> + +<p>We are invited to the home of Mr. Tata, a +Parsee gentleman. His family ranks high in +wealth and position in Bombay. My brother +had, on one occasion, traveled with him up the +Nile. His father and mother adhere to the +Parsee dress, but their sons, having been educated +in Cambridge and Oxford, have adopted +the European dress, but still wear the hat +of their sect. Their home occupied an entire +square, and a small park separated it from the +boulevard. We were invited to a four-o'clock +tea. As we drove into the grounds and to a +porte cochere we passed, in a victoria, Mr. Tata's +brother with his wife. She was dressed in the +graceful, elegant robes that the Parsee lady +wears with such apparent ease. The doors +were thrown open on our approach, by two +turbaned and handsomely clad servants. Their +white turbans were striped with gold +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_95">[Pg 95]</a></span> +thread; their dignified, quiet demeanor was +refreshing. At the head of some twenty marble +steps, full thirty feet in length, we were +met by more servants in oriental dress, and +were shown into the reception room. Mr. Tata +was there to receive us, and after a few commonplace +remarks I could restrain myself no +longer and began to expatiate on the surroundings. +He then told us that the house was +thrown open once a week for a length of time +after it was first built, that their friends might +come and bring guests to see their collection +of bric-a-brac and the rare pictures. At the +head of these marble steps we reached a hall, +the walls of which were lined with valuable +oil paintings. The house was built on the line +of the street—a solid front—but the interior +rooms faced a court yard, filled with the most +exquisite foliage plant and palms like forest +trees. A glass roof, that could be slid aside, +kept these from the elements. With a modest +air of ease Mr. Tata took us from room to +room. The portieres separating these apartments +had been made to order in Japan—embroideries +on satin of pale grey, lined with +different shades of pink, blue, nile green, and +some with white silk. On both sides of these portieres +were hung what we would call the +sheerest linen cambric. Tying back each pair, +when desired, were ribbons or tassels of corresponding +colors. All the wood used in this +house was imported, rare in quality. The +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_96">[Pg 96]</a></span> +collection of carved ivories was surpassingly +beautiful, as were also articles of +jade. We, who had priced them in China, +Japan and India, knew their value. The dining +room was oblong, and at an oblong table +in the middle of the floor could be seated five +hundred guests. The table had a hollow center. +By lifting up a hinged leaf persons could be +seated on either side. We were shown the butler's +pantry, large enough for an army +of servants. Its floors were inlaid as Mosaic +with pieces of broken china and cut +glass. Mr. Tata said it was his father's idea +and he urged him to get out a patent. The +wine department made one thirsty, and the coolers +are most unique, built in the wall, each bottle +lying on its side in marble chiseled grooves, +the process of cooling being hid from +sight. We ascended a stairway of marble, +whose broad steps afforded a landing place for +our feet, and we could but linger to admire +the works of art hung upon the walls. A beautiful +stained glass window, with full effect of +the setting sun, fronted the south and west at +the head of these steps of mammoth dimensions. +We were taken into Mr. Tata's own private +parlor and from his bed-room, or an anteroom, +sprang at our approach more turbaned and +splendidly arrayed servants, who immediately +after seating us offered on gold salvers delicately +shaped tea cups, filled with the +inviting Indian tea, and delicious rolled +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_97">[Pg 97]</a></span> +sandwiches hid in doilies of jeweled satin. +Well, we drank the tea, but visions of the +castle that Aladdin had built in one night by +the fairies was before my eyes, and fairly +blinded me. We were disappointed in not meeting +his mother and father, both of whom he said +were at the bedside of his aunt, who was very ill. +In bidding adieu to our admirable host, we were +told a carriage was ready to join ours that would +convey his best friend with us to a Parsee wedding. +We wondered why Mr. Tata himself did +not accompany us, but found no Parsee would be +bidden or allowed to enter the place set apart for +the guest at a wedding feast, without a wedding +garment, and when we saw that of the gentleman +who went with us, we thought Mr. Tata did +not care to make such an appearance before his +American friends.</p> + +<p>The dress of the men was of white cotton +cloth, made into short, stiff and exceedingly +full skirts reaching to the knee, an embroidered +jacket and a tall Parsee hat, bare legs +and sandals. The ladies wear one outside garment +of silk crepe about five yards long of delicate +pink, blue and other dainty tints and on +either edge of this garment is a narrow velvet ribbon +an inch wide, of a contrasting color—dark +blue, light blue, pink or maroon in shade. This +strip of velvet is embroidered in gold and silver +thread and inlaid with turquoise, emeralds, +pearls, etc. This article of drapery +is first thrown over the head to cover one ear, +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_98">[Pg 98]</a></span> +on the other of which, by the way, is hung the +most gorgeous solitaire diamond, emerald or +ruby. This scarf is then draped most artistically +about the shoulders and waist and droops in +graceful folds over a silk or satin petticoat. +They are very expensive; even those wrought +with imitation gems cost more than we felt like +expending.</p> + +<p>There seems to be a building, or rather two +of them, set apart for the wedding ceremonies +which, we were told, were only consummated +at certain seasons of the year (December and +January). The grounds around were beautifully +laid out with arches of electric lights spanning +the fountains, with their sparkling waters, +made more scintillating by the flickering +lights above them. The bride's house was on +one side of the entrance, the groom's on the +other. Her friends were with her; the groom's +friends with him. He sat at the door, with a +magnificent India shawl folded and thrown +over his arm, the gift of his best man, and +wore the costume described above. The bride +wore a blue crepe of very light shade. At a +given signal she, with a female friend, was +followed by all of those men, women and children +in procession from the door of her apartment +to that of the groom's. He received her +at the threshold and conducted her to one of +four seats—two for themselves and two for +their attendants. These chairs were placed on +a rug. Priests, two in number, stood on either +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_99">[Pg 99]</a></span> +side of them. A table with a large silver +salver, filled with well scraped cocoanut in +their shells, together with two large bowls of +rice were brought and placed before them, the +former designating plenty, the latter denoting +increase or conveying the command, "multiply +and replenish." These the priests hold in +their hands after first causing the bride to take +a seat opposite her husband elect and, throwing +a cord around their waists, tie them closely +together, and begin alternately to speak in +an emphatic manner, showering, continually, +the rice on their devoted heads; when the +quantity was exhausted the bowls were replenished. +Afterwards cocoanuts were given +to each to hold, and for two hours this went +on. The crowd, in the meantime, stood while +a rug was spread and chairs were given to us, +the honored guests. The children were most +elaborately attired in pink and blue satin, +short and full skirt, with bracelets and bangles +in profusion; they were very attractive. One +of these dear little girls never let go my hand, +but had led me in the procession to the groom's +house, and sat with me during the ceremony. +Love begets love and I felt like keeping her +close to me. Beautiful little satin slippers matched +their dresses. After the ceremony was over, +the cord was loosened and the bride sat at her +husband's left and received congratulations. We +then returned to the bride's house, across the +court-yard and had a rich feast of fruits, dainties +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_100">[Pg 100]</a></span> +and wines; a few drops of the latter turned my +head, but had to be drank for the sake of politeness. +The ceremony was only half over when we +left, all exhausted, for immediately after refreshments +another two hours of this harangue +by the priests had to be endured. What bliss +was this?</p> + +<p>On the following day the visit to the Elphanta +caves by sailing vessel was most tedious, as the +wind was against us, but on our return it was in +our favor, "and we flew like a bird from the +mountain" homeward. The landing at these caves +was difficult. Stepping stones of huge dimensions +stretch out into the water like a pier; an ascent of +one hundred and fifty steps from the sea level +brings us to the home of the carekeeper, who at +once, for an admittance fee, proceeds to the temple +close by and explains clearly all things necessary +for our enlightenment. The temple is of +solid rock; the builders began half way up the +mountain of stone and cut down perpendicularly, +thus removing the mountain face to a depth of +thirty feet by one hundred and fifty feet in width. +This Besaltic rock is chiseled into the interior of +the mountain, where perfect chambers, with +colossal gods, wrought by hand out of the stone, +stand in representation of the Trinity gods. +Brahma represents the creative power; Vishnu +the preserving power, and Siva the destroying +power. The guardian of this temple, an old +Englishman and his wife, who keep things +scrupulously clean, and in their own habitation +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_101">[Pg 101]</a></span> +offer us refreshments for a small compensation. +Our ship the "Caledonia," Capt. Andrews in +command, sails to-morrow. All is bustle and +confusion at the Oriental Hotel. We have enjoyed +Bombay, with its beautiful carved woods; +its ivories, and lovely sandal wood boxes; its +teak furniture; its markets, where everything +from a shoe string to a monkey or parrot can +be bought; its bazaars, where one must have a +level head to survive the noise of bartering, to +say nothing or but little of the jugglers who +swarm beneath the veranda of the hotel, performing +most marvelous feats with their cobras and +swords for the few piasters that are thrown +from an admiring and amazed crowd of travelers. +We must not fail to speak of pleasant acquaintances +made; of Sir Richard and Lady Campbell, +who will be our companions en voyage when we +leave this port of Bombay until we shall say good +bye to them, and Mr. and Miss———, of England, +of whom I have before written. We ship +all trunks, save our steamer, to Albert Docks, +London, where we hope to reclaim them before +re-embarking for home. The parting of retired +army officers, their wives and daughters, +from the sons and brothers who are left behind +to achieve fame perhaps, or lose their lives in +the farther service to their country, seemed less +affecting than I imagined such scenes would be, +but we find patriotism very pronounced among +the British subjects. They expressed hope of a +speedy return for one or many more wild boar or +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_102">[Pg 102]</a></span> +tiger hunts amid the jungles, where they may +add to their already large stock of skins. +We found the best stock of these for sale in Calcutta +in a famous house on the opposite side +of the street from the Grand Hotel. It is essential +to select a tiger skin with perfect claws +and natural teeth, as too often artificial ones are +used to promote a sale, and to have them perfect +in their curing is most desirable; if not, +your trunk in which they are packed will be well +filled with vermin. A zinc trunk is advisable, +which can be purchased in the shops, and at reasonable +prices.</p> + +<p>Adieux are spoken, the beautiful bay sparkles +in the sunlight, and we bid a farewell to the +land we may never see again. My own personal +regrets are few, for I have suffered during +the entire sojourn from a depression very +unlike my normal condition. I hope this benighted +race may yet be brought from darkness +into light and that one common brotherhood +may be established, and love divine shine over +all.</p> + +<hr class="chap" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_103">[Pg 103]</a></span></p> +<h2><a id="EGYPT"></a>EGYPT.</h2> + +<p>The Arabian sea is to me a reminder of tranquility; +the thought of no more temples to see, +no more heights to climb, no poor, wretched +beings, whose only existence is prolonged agony +to behold, for at least from the hour of sailing, +12 a. m., on Saturday, 14th of December, 1895, +until we reach Ismalia, Saturday, December 21, +at 12:30 p. m., what blissful anticipation, and +so fully realized on this quiet trip. A snug, +cool cabin all to myself, which opened into a +private hallway with a great open hatchway, +or open half-door, gave me the delicious sea +air in its fulness of life and vigor without the +necessity of my going on deck. Our steamer +chairs bought at Hongkong were shipped +through from Ismalia on the same vessel we +were sailing to Albert Docks, London, where I +found mine in good condition. I could recline +in this private hall, book in hand, and cull from +its valuable contents, information of the objects +I had seen, and what was still in store for +me—all the Oriental steamers have well-chosen +libraries for the benefit of travelers. I +had in anticipation from the beginning of my +trip a strong desire to note in my diary items +of interest, that I might have enough driftwood +on my return home for winter fireside, and from +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_104">[Pg 104]</a></span> +further research to be able to leave to my grandchildren +some fruit that would be to them a +lasting remembrance of me.</p> + +<p>We have booked on the steamer "Caledonia" +seventy first-class passengers. Among them, +my new-made acquaintances, Sir Richard Campbell, +wife and two daughters. The former was +none too happy in his retirement from active +service to a passive one in the bogs of Ireland +or to a shoot on the moors of Scotland. We +will credit him with no desire to capture and +hold captive the native coolies, but with a longing +while still in sight of India's coral strand +for the boar and tiger haunts. I suggested +when he bemoaned of having no longer +sufficient work to do to keep him happy, that +he would write a book of experiences of his life +in English service. He replied: "The market +is overstocked and with but little variety or +freshness in the productions of the pen." His +wife will long live in my memory as a fac simile +of gentleness and refinement. I doubt whether +she is in the body at my time of writing, as a +slow but sure sapping of life's strength was +going on from her long stay in India's treacherous +climate.</p> + +<p>Sunday's service was read on board our +steamer by an officer, at whose right hand at the +table, I was seated during our voyage. He was +clever and I enjoyed the conversations held with +him. A smooth sea and a fresh-laundried shirt +waist were most refreshing on that warm, but +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_105">[Pg 105]</a></span> +lovely sail. We landed at Aden, a British port +and important coaling station, at 11:00 a. m., +December 17 (Wednesday), where we lay three +hours. From Aden is exported Mocha coffee. +Where it grows I cannot imagine, for the port +is to all appearances, the most rocky, barren +shore we have yet seen—desolation of desolation. +Fortunately no coaling was necessary for our +vessel; it is a most disagreeable task, and passengers +go ashore if possible to escape the dirt and +noise. All the carpets and furniture are covered +with temporary coverings during the transfer +from the barges of these huge sacks filled +with coal. From hand to hand are they tossed +by the native coolies, the majority of the number +employed being women. The labor here, +as on the Nile, seems to be lightened by a cry, +or wail, which never ceases till the work is accomplished. +Natives in their canoes came in +swarms around the steamer as she lay at anchor, +bringing their stock in trade, which consisted +of ostrich feather boas, black or a color bordering +on it, with those of the original grey. +In our excitement to get a bargain we purchased, +but they were poor specimens and not +worth the pound we paid for them, but we enjoyed +the fun of bartering. Some of the passengers +bought long, stiff, white plumes, which +could be utilized in making fans. After our +purchases were made Mrs. Dudley and myself +having each selected a grey boa, were warned +by one who had been there before that we had +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_106">[Pg 106]</a></span> +more than we bargained for, and that it would be +better before depositing them in the trunks to +investigate. We needed no farther explanation, +but held at a safe distance the coveted articles and +rushed to my cabin, while Mrs. Dudley sent to +the head steward for a package of cayenne pepper, +which had been my suggestion. After a +fierce struggle, we succeeded in thoroughly +sprinkling the feathery lengths, and then purloined +a steamer towel, sewing them up until we +should reach Paris, where we determined to +have them steamed and curled, providing there +was anything to curl. On my arrival in that +city of fashion, I immediately sought a Tapissier +or cleaner, and besought them not to sue me for +damages, if they should, on opening the package, +sneeze themselves to death. In a few days, +on my return to our Pension with two friends, +we passed the feather cleaner's establishment, +when what to my wondering eyes did appear, +but a huge caterpillar in appearance in the window, +which we all declared, must have escaped +from the jardin d'acclimatation. After many uncomplimentary +remarks, I was compelled to acknowledge +that it belonged to me and was +bought in the Orient among other articles of +"virtu." But to return to Aden. We were +struck with the weird looks of the natives, with +nothing to conceal their nakedness but the +sacred cord around their loins. Their hair was +red; their skin black; the "Witches of Endor" +would have paled in comparison. The water +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_107">[Pg 107]</a></span> +seemed to be their native element; they would +dive down and under the vessel, appearing on +the opposite side for a piaster, which, when +thrown from the deck of the vessel into the water, +they would bring to the surface in their mouths.</p> + +<p>The day following we were on the Red Sea—smooth +sailing, and no land in sight; weather, +(December 18th,) beautifully cool and pleasant. +The passengers on deck enjoyed the sport so +much in vogue on these "P. and O." steamers. +"Pull for your life," which enlisted the participation +of ladies and gentlemen; the latter, after removing +their shoes, could stand on the well-sanded +deck. The leaders locked horns and their comrades +chose sides, each placing their arms around +the waists of the one preceding them, and then +came the "tug of war." It was as great fun to +the bystander as it was good exercise for those +engaged in the sport. A reward followed to the +victorious side, which, perhaps, took the form of +ginger ale or seltzer. We enter the Suez canal +at 4:00 p. m., December 21st (Saturday afternoon). +The evening shadows closed around us; +the low shores sank into half-transparent vagueness, +and threw into relief against the evening +sky a solitary individual straying along the +water's edge, while within, a hundred yards +from shore, were a band of Arabs, folding their +tents, preparatory to a long journey across the +desert. It was a most impressive scene. The +quiet was almost overpowering. The lonely +hour and the more lonely surroundings, all combined, +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_108">[Pg 108]</a></span> +made an indelible impression. The camels +were in the act of kneeling to receive the +burden they must carry on the journey. +In the moonlight, the undulating sands of the +Lybian and Arabian deserts looked like the billows +of an ocean, and the camels with their +swaying motion like moving sail vessels, were +lost to sight in solemn silence. This voyage on +the Suez canal has a charm of its own indefinable.</p> + +<p>The Suez maritime canal is about 120 miles +in length from sea to sea (Mediterranean to the +Red). Out of this length only thirty-eight miles +were found to be above sea level; the remaining +eighty-two were either below or on the +same level. About midway between the two +seas is Lake Timsah, nine miles in circumference. +That basin is converted into a central +harbor, where vessels may at all times find a +safe and convenient anchorage. From El Guise, +through which the canal passes to the Mediterranean, +the width is 240 feet, and from El Guise +to Ismalia it is 180 feet, after which it passes +into the proper width, 240 feet. The estimate +of keeping the canal in order, from its completion +in 1869 to 1895, is about £75,000 sterling. +Great dredges lie near the shore as we pass, +from which vessels steer away. Charges agreed +upon for transit are ten francs, or two dollars, +per ton; hence, our steamer "Caledonia" paid for +her weight of 4,125 tons, $825. The Indian steamers, +instead of stopping at Suez, steam directly +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_109">[Pg 109]</a></span> +to Port Said, anchoring off Ismalia only +long enough for passengers to land. We +reached this point at 12:00 p. m. Before arriving +a late supper was ordered by a few to +celebrate the leave-taking, for many who had +traveled together so far were to continue their +journey to Marseilles and from thence to England, +and others with us were to go into +Egypt. We here bade good-bye to Mr. and +Miss Donnesthorpe, who had been with us en +route from Nagasaki, Japan. Before leaving +Mr. Donnesthorpe gave me his confidence regarding +his engagement to an English girl he +had left at home. The outward-bound vessels, +instead of stopping at Alexandria, steam direct +through the canal to Suez and Bombay, while +one vessel homeward bound passes through +this canal every week. Thus, two vessels a +week make 104 a year. Averaging 1,000 tons +per vessel, the aggregate 104,000 tons at two +dollars a ton will produce the sum of £41,600 +sterling annually. These vessels carry to and +from home about 10,000 persons a year, and +this number pay £4,000, so that from the +Peninsular and Oriental line of steamers alone +the canal company will receive £45,000 annually, +exclusive of the duties received from +coal ships. Total averages from other lines +are about £185,000, to say nothing of the +pilgrims from Tunis, Tripoli, on their pilgrimages +to Medinah and Mecca. $5,000 to $8,000 +is saved on this route of travel to the merchants +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_110">[Pg 110]</a></span> +from England to India. The depth of +this canal in every part is twenty-six feet. +Steam is supplanting the use of sails, for the +Red Sea offers no exceptional difficulties to +steamers. No vessel would require more than +her sails, for the wind blows strong and steady +during nine months of the year.</p> + +<p>The opening celebration of the canal by the +viceroy was regal. An opera house, theatre +and circus were constructed in Cairo; gas was +introduced into the city of the Mameluke Caliphs; +Ezhekiah plaza was renovated in a manner +that ten years before would have been +thought impossible; the streets were laid out +and flanked by granite and freestone curbing, +and sidewalks laid with massive flagstone; railway +stations renovated and the streets leading +to it improved, so that on first introduction a +stranger would be favorably impressed. The +viceroy's palaces were repainted and every +hotel in Cairo was engaged for the guests of +the Khedive, to feed them and lodge them at +48 shillings per day per capita; all carriages +and cabs free and at their disposal, the cost of +entertainment was $2,000,000. Light houses +were erected at Bitter Lake, and electric lights +of great power at Port Said. Ismalia, the +center part of the Suez canal, is on Lake Tismah; +it was filled with water from the Mediterranean, +November, 1862, through the canal +the average depth was nineteen feet. Ismalia +stands at the confluence of three canals; the +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_111">[Pg 111]</a></span> +Maritime, Sweet Water from Suez to Ismalia, +and the canal from Zazazed to Ismalia, which +runs through Ancient Goshen, in whose confines +dwelt the children of Israel 400 years.</p> + +<p>"The harbor of Suez roadbeds was found to +afford anchorage for 500 ships, its depth +being from sixteen to twenty-four feet, bottomed +with soft mud. In 1858 the canal company +chose for its president M. Ferdinand de +Lesseps. In 1859 the work was commenced. +Mohammed Said Pasha of Egypt took 177,642 +shares. In 1863 Said Pasha died and Ismail, +son of Ibrahim, son of Mohammed Ali, succeeded +to the vice-royalty of Egypt. England +was jealous of the concession to France. The +sultan wavered, but Napoleon III. had his eye +on him, and he was frightened out of his intended +course. Ismail broke his contract with +the canal company and would furnish no fellahs. +Napoleon III. came to the rescue of De +Lesseps. A committee composed equally of +French and Egyptians, was called by Napoleon +and declared in favor of the company to the +amount of £3,600,000, to be payable in installments +in fifteen years."</p> + +<p>De Lesseps, long calumniated, individually +persevered against disadvantages in the undertaking, +until finally (November 17, 1869) +he exhibits with worthy pride his mighty +achievement to the civilized globe, represented +by crowned heads and dignitaries of all countries, +monarchial and republican. +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_112">[Pg 112]</a></span></p> + +<p>During our stay of twenty-four hours, or +even less time, in Ismalia, we visited the home +De Lesseps occupied during his sojourn here. +It was within an enclosure where beautiful +trees overshadowed the house and it looked +lonely and forsaken. We also went to the +house or palace which the Viceroy had built for +himself. Dogs formidably guarded the entrance. +We did not tarry long, but my brother +and I wandered far enough into the sands of +the desert to satisfy all our longings forevermore. +The canal was built by the French, but +the English bought most of the stock and have +control of it, although it runs through Egyptian +territory. From the inhospitable Hotel +Victoria we rode on a tramway to the depot, +where rather a poor train of cars awaited us, +conveying us for miles through the desert +sands, suddenly merging into plains and reaching +Cairo at 6:00 p. m., the <ins class="corr" title="original had '22d'">22nd</ins> of December. +Little by little the plain becomes less green as +we approach the Egyptian capital; the valley +contracted and the pyramids appear roseate beneath +the rays of the setting sun. On the right, +through the palm trees, against the yellow +tones of the Lybian desert, are the heights of +Mokattam, with the citadel and the mosques +of Mahomet Ali, the dome of which shines +brilliantly between two tapering minarets. A +forest of minarets and white walls and we have +arrived amid deafening cries of the cabmen +and the running omnibuses for the different +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_113">[Pg 113]</a></span> +hotels. My brown "Cheap Jack" purchased in +Bombay to carry a steamer rug which I had +bought there again proved a white elephant, +but after many gestures it is transferred by a +porter to Shephard's Hotel. Crowds stand waiting +for rooms to be allotted them, and as good +luck has so far followed me both on steamers +and at hotels, I find myself in a brief time +nicely ensconced in a sunny room. We hasten +to make ready for dinner, and are most happy +to be seated alongside of Mrs. John A. +Logan and her party of four young ladies and +Doctor B., who heads the table and proves +himself a most fitting decoration. The salon +is crowded, and at one end on a stage is stationed +a band of native musicians, male and female, +with European musical instruments upon +which the latest opera airs were played. It +is customary after dinner is served to join the +immense crowd that promenades or is seated, +according to choice, in the corridors and exchange +of the building. There tiny cups of +coffee with brandy, absinthe and cigarettes +are offered by the coolies in picturesque +dress. Ladies, as well as men, partook freely, +handling the cigarette with an air of nonchalance +which bespoke its frequent use. It seemed that +people from every nation and every tribe were +assembled there. The air became dense, and it +has been truly said that nowhere else than in +Shephard's Hotel can such a transformation +scene be witnessed. Many of my own neighbors +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_114">[Pg 114]</a></span> +from Chicago were here. We met our Japanese +colonel again. He had just returned from the +Nile trip. He walked with the assurance of a man +who had won laurels and was wearing them. +I was glad to meet him, as our close proximity +at the table on the steamers promoted a +good feeling between us. Cairo is a winter +resort for English, Arabians, Swedes and in +fact the climate attracts from all over the +world. The ladies who are there for the season +make as great a display of fine clothes as +we see in our own drawing rooms at home; in +fact, the display of jewels is regal. But of this +the traveler wearies, as our days are so busy; +we willingly retire early to restore nature's +wasted powers. One old lady from Wales sat +with her gouty feet on a cushion, to which you +were oblivious, for she was so bejewelled. She +was an Egyptologist, she told me. I found her +an agreeable woman, but fond of display. I +apologized for my Quaker-like garb, explaining +to her why I did not feel at ease in such a +crowd in my quiet silk gown; that I had only +a steamer trunk with me, and while its contents +might ordinarily have passed muster, the +piling on top of them—a lot of "Benares brass"—had +crushed what little stiffness my balloon +sleeves had once maintained. She scanned me +closely and, with a confidential air, whispered: +"You are a good conversationalist, anyhow, +so never mind." I really began to feel a sense +of inflation, and looked to see my sleeves puff +up. +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_115">[Pg 115]</a></span></p> + +<p>The poor villages of Egypt, a collection +of dilapidated houses built of clay, baked +by the burning sun and roofed with dry +sorghum leaves, were scattered here and +there. Here are seen cafes built of loam and +straw and rickety planks upon which exhausted +beggars sleep in sordid rags, where poor +peasants devour a doura cake and drink a cup +of coffee; women in long, blue gowns, carrying +water in heavy clay pitchers; camels loaded +with sugar-cane; asses bending beneath +bulky bags of rice; heron, plover and white +pigeons; Pharaoh's chickens hover overhead, +watching with piercing eyes their prey; pelicans +amid the Papyrus, a blue lotus, a plant +dear to the Pharaohs, which one finds everywhere +engraved on the walls of their temples; +dusky girls with long, slender hands and tapering +fingers, the nails reddened with Henna, +holding a corner of their garment between their +teeth to hide their faces and pushing flocks of +turkeys before them. They walk slowly, gazing +frankly, while the copper bangles clank gently +on their delicately moulded ankles.</p> + +<p>The population of Cairo in 1895 was about +350,000. The Khedive lives with his wife and +family at the Palace of Ismalia, near the Nile +bridge. He is a strict monogamist, loyal in +his married life and detests slavery as much as +polygamy. All his attendants are paid wages. +He is said to rise at 4:00 or 5:00 a. m., eats no +breakfast, exercises two hours, and between +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_116">[Pg 116]</a></span> +seven and eight o'clock drives in state to Abdin +Palace, which is about a half mile from Ismalia, +his home. Abdin is the usual place for +receptions and ceremonial visits. Here the +Khedive spends the day, transacting various +business, seeing ministers, reading letters and +telegrams and talking with his courtiers. +At 5:00 p. m. he drives again with his guard, +preceded by his athletic sais about forty feet +in advance, while in his victoria sits always +some companion beside him. These sais attract +much attention, so very graceful are +they in appearance. Their white Turkish +trousers, their gold embroidered bolero jacket, +with bright, oriental sashes and a cap of bright +color that sets off their fine features and well-shaped +head. They are very fleet, but we were +told that their earthly race is soon run, the exercise +being too violent. We take donkeys to +visit the bazaars. There is a change of temperature, +about 60 deg. Fah., but the attempt +made to keep our seat on our lively animals +brought out the perspiration, as this was our +maiden effort. The name of the present Khedive +is Lewfak (1895). On a recent occasion +he was asked: "What would be the effect on +the harem if the slaves and eunuchs were no +longer on guard?" He replied: "The women +would rush into all sorts of license." He agreed +that education was the one thing needful, and +in accordance with his convictions has started +a high school for girls, at his own expense. +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_117">[Pg 117]</a></span> +The Mussulman women's morals are very low; +their influence on the children of the harem is +most deplorable. The Ezbekiah Garden confronts +us nearby the hotel. It was formerly a +lake surrounded by trees and habitations. At +the present, after many changes, it is of rectangular +form, with corners cut off, surrounded +by an iron railing. A basin with swan, and +carefully sanded paths with strange trees +brought from the interior of Africa is a beautiful +sight. The limpid blue sky and the rays +of the magnificent eastern sun makes it an attractive +place to linger, particularly so at 4:00 +p. m., when a military band performs its European +repertoire. Beer shops, restaurants and +photographic pavilions are installed in and +near this garden; veiled women, men in silk +gowns of various colors, mostly blues, roam +about with the most perfect ease. Beautiful +Egyptian tents were erected for a bazaar +while we were there. No one can appreciate, +without seeing their effective display, made of +sailcloth, with red, yellow and blue calico in +plain colors, appliqued on in strange hieroglyphic +designs. Rugs were on the ground +and tapestries were used as portieres, while +the Turk or Egyptian sat in the doorway, apparently +indifferent to the passerby. To visit +Heliopolis, we took a victoria and an expert +dragoman. We passed the viceroy's palace, with +its lane of lemon trees and the well cultivated +plain of Metarrah, covered with gardens. We +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_118">[Pg 118]</a></span> +stop at the virgin's tree, where Mary and the +child rested in their flight to Egypt. This, with +the field around it, is watered by a sakieh, which +draws sweet and refreshing water from the bottom +of a well. With the cooling draught, we are +presented with a tiny bunch of flowers, for which +we return a few piasters. A paling surrounds +Mary's Sycamore, under whose shade, tradition +says, she washed the infant's clothes, and that +wherever a drop of water fell a Balsam tree +sprang up. All that remains of Heliopolis, the +city of the sun, is the obelisk of Usertesan. Heliopolis +is the On of the Hebrews. It was here the +Bennonz, Phoenix, the fabled bird, with its gold +and crimson plumage, without a mate, came from +Arabia every five hundred years to expire, and +to be reborn of its own ashes on the altar of the +sun.</p> + +<p>I left my companion in the victoria, and +wended my way alone to the obelisk, not far +distant. It may be he preferred to contemplate +on Heliopolis' past glory, as he was fresh from +Yale's classic shade, and deep, no doubt, in its +lore, rather than touch its hieroglyphics. To see +the bees so thickly settled there was of little +satisfaction, but what were we there for if not +to touch, taste and handle? The climatic effects +will preserve this wonderful monument +for ages, while their consorts on the Thames +and in New York Central Park already show +signs of decay. +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_119">[Pg 119]</a></span></p> + +<p>The ostrich farm was a more enlivening +scene. One thousand of these ugly, vicious +birds were kept in an enclosure, the fence +surrounding them being so high we were +obliged to seek an elevation from which we +could look down upon them. They are most +ungainly, but their strut is indicative of vanity. +To probe them, as some did through an opening +in the gateway, was to arouse their wrath, +and the warning was soon given to desist, by +the care-keepers. Many of the eggs were emptied +of their contents and for sale. Throughout +the land morgues are crumbling to ruins, +the Arab seemingly powerless to repair them, +or to build new ones. Cairo is built from the +ruins of Heliopolis and Memphis.</p> + +<p>To return to Cairo by the Kooha road is to +meet at 5:00 p. m. the Khedive and suite on +their return from Abdin palace. It is said the +Khedive is never seen to smile; we can testify +that he did not smile on us, although we rode +parallel with him that day. The tramp of his +attendant cavalry always attracts a crowd. We +see, as we drive along, the donkeys roll with +their saddles in the sand; swarms of naked +soiled children, with their deafening yell, increase +the clamor made by the native pipe seller +and blower. These are made of bamboo, and, +when properly handled, give out a noise peculiar +to those people. Water-sellers, with filled goatskins +on their shoulders, leather aprons to their +knees, striking their copper goblets one against +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_120">[Pg 120]</a></span> +the other, richly caparisoned mules, bearing +venerable Mohammedan priests, whose gowns are +kissed as they go by—all these and more join this +medley in human or animal form. Traffic is +suddenly stopped by a long string of camels +coming, laden with thick pieces of timber, rugged +stones or enormous bales of merchandise. +They walk silently in the dust with long strides, +waving to and fro, exhaling an insupportable +odor. Their heavy, incommodious cargoes +strike right and left, breaking everything before +them. Woe betide the pedestrian, who does not +anticipate their coming, and prepare to skip. +These caravans are only momentary disturbances, +then all is righted till another passes. +Through all this pandemonium we drive to the +tombs of the Caliphs, the independent sovereigns +of Egypt from the ninth to the twelfth +century. In the face of the ruins crumbling +slowly beneath the action of centuries, one feels +an unutterable melancholy. Mosque of El +Achraf-ynal El Ghours is near the tombs of the +Caliphs, their courts are full of rubbish and +plants and brambles, with its fountains for ablutions +in ruins. These mosques contain tombs +and stone mausoleums. We pass out into a +dilapidated village of low mud houses, few +shops, with fruits to sell, camels lying down, +asses and tattered children and old men. We +ascend not far away the staircase with disjointed +steps, the mosque of Karl Bey. The interior +court, open to all elements, is paved with marble +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_121">[Pg 121]</a></span> +mosaics. The ceiling of the mosque is +carved, painted and gilded. The rose windows, +cut in massive stone, is in great perfection, but +all is crumbling, like everything else in the east.</p> + +<p>The tombs of the Caliphs we overlook from +the citadel, where we listen to the guide who +relates the daring feats of the Mamelukes. To +see the sun set from this point is one of the +pleasures that Cairo affords. Here is a fortress, +where Ramises II detained his Assyrian captives, +when the Roman legion under Caesar held +Egypt. The vile, stuffy smells that greet you +on entering are appalling, and the ragged children +eaten up by vermin, and afflicted by sore +eyes rub against you. You enter the Coptic +church of the Virgin Mary; partitions in woodwork +separate three naves. Mother of pearl and +ivory inlaid work decorate the interior, but it +was so dark the beauties were lost to me, but +we are not insensible to the vile uncleanliness, +for that is paramount. We are taken to the +banks of the Nile, shown the ancient Nile meter, +and the exact spot where Moses was found in +the bulrushes. From all this we turn with weary +steps to the university, where scholars from the +extreme north, south, and those who scarcely +know from whence they came, are here to study +the four rites taught from the Koran. They +board at the Mosque and also receive a small +allowance and oil for their lamps. Gathered together +in circles, holding their tablets in their +hands, lying or sitting on their mats covering +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_122">[Pg 122]</a></span> +the ground, they learn by heart verses from +the Koran, which they recite aloud in a drawling +voice, swinging the body, as is peculiar +to the Orientals. A special fund is raised from +pious fanatics for the support of the blind who +become scholars, no less fanatic than their +teachers.</p> + +<p>Another day for the museums at Boulah to +be taken before, and after going up the Nile. +From its terrace the views are splendid. The +supporting walls bathe in the Nile, where multitudes +of vessels lie side by side. Across the +desert come caravans from Abyssinia, with coffee +and incense from Arabia; pearls, precious +stones, cassimeres and silks from India.</p> + +<p>In dahabehis from Esneh come ivories, +ostrich feathers, acacia gum, nitre from Kenner, +boats loaded with pottery of porous earth, in +which to keep the water of the Nile in amphoræ +(large earthen jugs) in all sizes. Edfou sends +its pipes, vases of red clay and black. Barges +filled with indigo, cotton and barley, dahabehis +of carpets and woolen stuffs with flagons of rose +water. From the North come rice, maize and +Syrian tobacco; draperies from Aleppo, Smyrna +and Damascus; dried grapes from the mountains +of Karamania; soap from the isles of the Archipelagos, +and in the midst of all this enterprise, +donkey boys yell, and camels make their unearthly +cry, while I, who am mounted on a +donkey, scarcely look to the right or left, lest I +go over "Abraham Lincoln's" head. +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_123">[Pg 123]</a></span></p> + +<p>We have left the museum and are on the road +leading to Cairo, the Champs Elysee of this capital +city. Tuesdays and Sundays the gay world +is met on this thoroughfare. We overlook the +port of old Cairo to see all we have described, +besides dahabehis from Nubia and Soudan +with goods and passengers. The ferry passing +between Bedrashen and old Cairo is full to +overflowing. Men, women, Bedouin negroes, +asses, camels overburdened with merchandise, +cages of fowls, and fruit in kouffas; people gesticulating +and grumbling in an inconceivable +manner—all this confusion we pass through to +reach our hotel to dream of our journey to the +pyramids the following day. Our dragoman +secures an open carriage that seats four persons, +besides the coachman and himself on the +coachmen's seat. We are told that twenty years +were consumed in building the great pyramid, +costing 600 talents (the Hebrew weight 94 lbs.) +in Hebrew money; 100,000 men were employed +on the works, and were changed every three +months. They say nothing changes in the valley +of the Nile; the Fellah has always bent the +spine to the stick. Lives innumerable were +sacrificed by the Pharaohs in building for themselves, +and others, tombs that time could not +change, and where thieves could not break +through and steal. How all earthly plans are +frustrated. Now the hidden places of the <ins class="corr" title="original had 'pvramids'">pyramids</ins> +are laid bare. The museum at Boulah +contains the mummied forms of the builders, and +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_124">[Pg 124]</a></span> +the entrances to their sepulchres are open to +bats and men. I did not ascend the pyramids +farther than to look into these excavations. This +effort was most exhausting, even when assisted +by these athletic Arabs, and the demand for +backsheesh was overpowering. The sheik, under +whose patronage these coolies work, stands +looking on without intervention until your dragoman +is forced to appeal to him to quell the +disturbance, but we could see that he berated +those who were delinquent in making their demands +good. The sphinx near by can be reached +either by camels, who stand in readiness to convey +you, or you can walk. We prefer the latter +rather than to have another bombardment +for backsheesh, but waiving, as we did, all assistance +but our dragoman, we were followed by +these wretched persecutors. There is in this +colossal figure a dignity—an air of mystery. It +is with difficulty that the sands of the desert are +kept from enveloping it, but the climatic effect +is wonderful; it seems destined for time and +eternity.</p> + +<p>Friday is the day for religious service with +the howling dervishes. One never cares for a +repetition. Those who take active part in the +ceremony are men whose regular features are +set off by a tall, round, sugar-loafed hat, surrounded +at its base with a turban wound very +tight, clothed in long, flowing gowns, very full, +open in front. A second gown underneath of +mauve silk shows a blue jacket and orange-colored +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_125">[Pg 125]</a></span> +trousers. One carries a flute, and now and +then a soft, ethereal note is heard. Around this +musician are others with their instruments. In +a semi-circle, with arms falling at their sides, +stand at least thirty dervishes, their long gowns +of different colors fastened tight around their +waists with a red silk sash, red, white and green +turbans, and linen or woolen caps. Their hair +is of extraordinary length, dyed with henna, and +falling to their knees. At a signal from their +leader, all uncover their heads at the same moment, +and, as they bend balancing themselves +slowly at first, with each jerk pronouncing the +word "Allah!" This swinging motion becomes +by degrees rapid; voices burst out; one hears +the piercing note of the flute, and the ring of +the cymbals. The sepulchral roll of the Dara-bonkas +make the flesh creep, and finally ends in +a delirious exaltation.—They assume frightful +contortions; their bodies bend; the hair whips +the air and the cry of "Allah! Allah!" penetrates +bone and marrow. After a while their +ways become more regular, voices clearer, and +they seem again to possess their faculties.</p> + +<p>The great artery of trade cuts bazaar quarters +into the old Frank quarters where east and +west mixes. Living side by side, the occupants +of these shops speak, when opening the shutters +in the morning, and when closing them in +the evening, and frequently offer each other tea +and cigarettes through the day, and that terminates +all connection. A Babel street, dealers in +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_126">[Pg 126]</a></span> +French novelties; an American dentist; a barber, +a Jewish money changer side by side, +while on foot in the roadway divers people +from diverse nations throng—few groups +but a constant movement. Among them are +loaded camels, people on horses, donkeys, mules, +victorias drawn by Arab steeds always on the +trot. The guards driving to one side the crowd +by blows in the face with their sticks, water carriers, +soldiers, in fact, everybody, hustling, +bustling in search of something. In the bazaar +of Khan Khabiel we found copper utensils of all +forms and sizes, coffee pots, perfume burners, +ewers, chandeliers for mosques, Persian caskets +chiseled to perfection, articles of rhinoceros horn, +Circassian and Saracen steel armor, inlaid with +gold, tables of mother of pearl and ivory. A +dealer in old clothes sat at the angle of the +street playing a game of chance with his neighbor. +We see Koran letters in green on black +ground hung in black frames standing against +the wall, while the owner sits dreaming near by, +apparently deriving much comfort from his kief. +The streets are narrow, often hedged from +houses by a trellis work, fashioned from palm +leaves. The sun penetrates in spots. Through +these apertures one sees the clear blue sky and +black kites, vultures and hawks describing circles, +and at intervals wild geese from the north +go flying by. The roads are covered with dust +which, when it rains, becomes almost impassable. +We see coming towards us women accompanied +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_127">[Pg 127]</a></span> +by slave bathing attendants, going +to a public bath house reserved for females. +They meet by appointment, burn perfumed aloes, +etc., send for singers and treat themselves to +pastry and sweets.</p> + +<p>The roofs of carpet bazaars, half covered with +mats and shreds of cloth, permit the soft light to +filter through, and upon the sacred prayer rug +throws a mellowed light. Piles of camels' bags, +some brilliant in color, with mountains of rugs +from all parts of the east; those of the velvety +silken texture with blended colors come from +Persia. A coarser kind of many stripes comes +from Rabah, Tunis and Kurdistan. Long squares +with ground of soft blue are used by the Mohammedans +in their devotion and are made in +Smyrna and Bokhara. The gem polisher sits +within the doorway of his shop, with wheels +and implements, whereon he perfects his work. +We are interested in the Persian turquoise, the +most desirable to be purchased. We buy, we +think, flawless ones of exquisite shades.</p> + +<p>The Ramhadin, or season of fasting, by the +Moslems, continues one month, and during that +time they neither taste nor smell food or tobacco +between sunrise and sunset. After this +vile durance, we were told, their appetites can +scarcely be appeased, nor their tempers curbed.</p> + +<p>The weddings in December and January are +in rule and, by applying for an invitation, your +dragoman as a great favor to his lady, can and +will obtain one or more, for which you must +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_128">[Pg 128]</a></span> +compensate him, besides defraying all expenses, +and giving flowers and presents. You must expect +but little less expenditure than at our own weddings +in our own country, and but little to +repay you. On the evening of the 24th of December +(1895), Christmas trees were on exhibition +at the hotel for the benefit of the guests; the +ladies only received presents. The room was most +brilliant with electric lights and three large +trees most artistically decorated with bright +balls, cornucopias and trinkets. A card was +given each lady and the number thereon drew a +prize. My first was a box of candy and a small +toilet article. Not eating candy, I presented both +articles and asked Mr. Bailey, our host, for another +chance, which drew me a white satin sofa +cushion cover. For a time we almost forgot we +were so far from home. There were so many +familiar faces gathered around those trees, besides +no limit to others who believed that the +"Coming of Christ" meant good gifts to men. +The 30th of December my brother and his family +left me to return to America. I was over-persuaded +to go up the Nile, a trip I most reluctantly +made. As I felt the depression of the Egyptian +atmosphere, added to my depressed condition +from the medicine taken (prescribed by +a missionary doctor on board the steamer +"Pekin") throughout my Indian journey that +I was unfit to travel any longer—and I had +no desire to die so far from home—the pressure +against my own judgment outweighed in +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_129">[Pg 129]</a></span> +the balance, and I left Cairo on the steamer +"Ramises III" at 9:15 o'clock A. M. December +31st, 1895. The room assigned to me by Thomas +Cook & Co. was No. 63, on the upper deck. +I had no room mate, much to my joy. This +was my "mascot" from the time I boarded +the steamer at Vancouver—with but one exception, +and that was on the steamer "Pekin" +from Columbo to Calcutta where I had a dear +old lady from Australia (Mrs. Champion) +share my cabin. We had seventy first-class passengers. +Among them were Mrs. John A. Logan, +Dr. B., of Brooklyn, Miss Paul, Miss Koon and +Miss Dousman, Mr. and Mrs. George Hale and +his sister, Mrs. Mathews, Conan Doyle, wife and +sister, and from England we had the knighted +organist of Westminster Abbey and Lady +Campbell and daughter, while others I could +mention to whom I became attached were +Mrs. Allis and daughter, of Milwaukee, and +Mrs. Wilbur and daughter, from Flatbush, +Long Island. I must not fail to speak of Mr. +Osterburg, the Swedish consul in Cairo, who +made himself most agreeable. Our dragomen +were Richard and Claudius, the former a +Syrian, the latter I saw less of, but some of +the passengers, who became interested in him, +visited in person his little wife, about fourteen +years old, who had a mud hut in the vicinity of +one of the stopping places on the Nile.</p> + +<p>After lunch was served on our first day out +we made our first landing at Bedrashead, site +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_130">[Pg 130]</a></span> +of Memphis and Sakkarah, where we saw the +colossal statue of Ramises II, lying prostrate, +in readiness to be transferred to some less favored +spot. I had a fine mount, and Richard +stuck close to "my lady" (you must remember +that much respect is paid to the aged in the +Orient). The temple of Ptah, the step pyramid, +pyramid of Teta, pyramid of Pepi 1st, +and the Ape's Mausoleum, were shown us. +This last was most interesting. Magnesium +lights of the guides enabled us to distinguish +in these dark, subterranean passages, where +3,700 years ago, naked foot-prints left on layers +of sand, placed in the corners of these +mortuary chambers, testify to a primitive appearance. +Here people made superhuman effort +to hide their burial places for all ages to +come, to prevent rude hands from pulling +their bones apart until, according to their religion, +their souls would again return to their +well preserved bodies—to enjoy Nirvana.</p> + +<p>We saw the tomb of "Thi," Necropolis of +Saharah; also Marrek's house. To the latter +is due much credit for his perseverance in unearthing +and protecting the contents of these +buried ruins. My first donkey ride was a success, +not that I enjoyed it, but owing to a +most considerate donkey boy, who walked at +the side of the beast (instead of the rear) and +allowed me to hold in my left hand the reins +and my right arm around his swarthy neck. +Thus, I took all those excursions on the Nile +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_131">[Pg 131]</a></span> +without an accident, till I gave myself the title +of "the lady of a fond embrace," while others, +more daring and perhaps more dainty of touch, +were more than once thrown over the donkey's +head, suffering from bruises that took +more than a day to heal. Immediately on +reaching the steamer, at 4:30 p. m., tea was +served on deck. I was more than weary and +so sore I could scarcely taste of my dinner, +but, thanks to a kind Providence, I was by +morning on deck, but that day we made no excursions. +The following day we landed at +Beni-Hassan, visiting the Rock Tombs, consisting +of chambers, shaft and corridors, where +the mummies were once placed, but now all +are swept and garnished. All that remains +to tell the tale, are the writings and sculpturing +on the walls. The scribe has taken precaution +that he who runs may read. The series +of bas-reliefs is a biography in stone with +illustrations. The entire life of a man is written +there. I must quote from a writer a few +lines that have impressed me: "It is said that +man's head becomes smaller every day, his +muscle and chest enlarged; animal strength +develops at the expense of the brain, which +diminishes in proportion. The law of the +strongest is the law of human species, one-half +of which is seeking to destroy the other." +These scenes depicted on the crumbling ruins, +enriched by color, are strikingly realistic, built +partly during the life time, and often after the +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_132">[Pg 132]</a></span> +death of the person. These give the best possible +insight into the life of the Egyptians of +that period. From past ages to the present +hour are men building their own monuments, +immortalizing, if possible, their virtues. How +well the foundation should be laid, that the +principles, overlapping each other, may make +a fitting example for future generations.</p> + +<p>There are no new cities built of any magnitude; +the new would only depopulate the old. +From Memphis, reduced to a state of quarry, is +built Alexandria; from Heliopolis we have Cairo. +In passing the limestone cliffs we experience +cold and wind; the mummied crocodile pits we +pass, and stop at Aizril. Peddlers besiege the +vessel, and the vociferating yell was kept up +until long after 10:00 p. m., the hour when all +lights in the cabin are shut off. At Aizul, +we buy Nubian veils, which are made by embroideries +in gold stars on black and white +heavy netting, and are most becoming when +worn by Nubian women. Soudanese embroidery +is thrust upon us, but to all we turn +a deaf ear and again mount donkeys to +visit the bazaars. It was market day; the +roads dusty; long lines of camels with their +undulating necks and inhuman cry, impeded +our way and shocked our nerves. What +vagueness in the stare of a camel; what great, +sad eyes; walking slowly with their heavy +burdens, urged on by the voice and gesture +of sober-looking Bedouins, perched upon the +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_133">[Pg 133]</a></span> +beast. Women with ravaged features and +with soiled garments pass us, with babies +seated astride of their shoulders; little girls +clutching their gowns, with leather or silver +amulets on their neck or suspended between +their eyes; the flowing chemise, of crude colors, +mostly blue, their heads bound in a turban +of muslin, their black tresses flying in the wind. +The arms of these children of the desert +are encircled in bracelets, some of which +we purchased with a few annas. They are +gilded and tarnished, perhaps from lack of +usage. A sad smile seems to lurk on their +faces, casting a gleam in their dark eyes, and +they will follow for a great distance your donkey, +offering you their poor, little, ragged dolls +for a backsheesh; the very touch of them +would be pollution. You cannot resist, if an +anna is within reach, of throwing it to them +and receiving in return a glimpse of their pearly +teeth between their red lips in their attempts +at a smile. The Arab men, wrapped in +their burnoose, look on mechanically, turning +their rosewood beads in their hands. Their yellow +dogs, with pointed muzzles, prowl around +restlessly, as if they would cry out with joy +if a bone was thrown them. On passing +through the bazaars I spied a Nubian veil, +and to inspect it within a doorway, I was +obliged to dismount; not being satisfied with +work or quality, I attempted to remount, with +the assistance of my diminutive donkey boy, +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_134">[Pg 134]</a></span> +but alas, we were not equal to the feat; when, +from a distance, came a red coat, an English +soldier, who threw me on the saddle and +demanded a backsheesh. Is begging contagious, +or is their need so great? Over +the tranquil scenes creep the cold shadows of +night, with their unhealthy, impenetrable +gloom; lights of the steamer are extinguished; +the water shadoufs, with lean bullocks for +their motive power, with hanging fetlocks, +conducted by a little fellahin, gave a sharp, +hollow, grinding sound as the brake wheels +were made to revolve. These brake wheels set +others in motion, which in their turn start still +others at the extremity of the spokes on the +water circles, where jars of baked clay were +fastened with cords made of palm fiber. The +latter, in their constant rotation, scooped up +water, pouring it into basins, from which ran +gutters, dug at right angles in the earth, and +spread like silver threads through this thirsty +land. These shadoufs are placed at intervals +along the Nile and from its beneficent waters +the desert is made to bloom as the rose.</p> + +<p>The early mornings are bright, but cold. +As we proceed up the Nile the noonday sun +feels uncomfortable, but invariably the nights +are cold. Then it is that the awnings are +closely drawn around the upper deck, where +a piano, tables and chairs are placed for the +pleasure and convenience of the guests, while +flags of different nations brighten and enliven +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_135">[Pg 135]</a></span> +the scene, festooned on the canvas that wraps +us in from the prevailing miasma. An evening +on the Nile steamer may not be irksome, +although our steamer ties up at nightfall. The +lack of motion is made up by music and dancing +and pleasant intercourse. A few moments +after dinner I would retire to the saloon or +library room, where pens and paper were provided +for the guests. There I would jot down +in my journal my transactions of the day and +write home if we were within postal quarters. +We never made excursions on the Sabbath +day; our trips were so arranged by Cook, who +had our boat under his rules, that all who +cared for rest might enjoy it. We disembarked +at Dendarah, where we spent two hours in +the early morning. As we recall these days +on the Nile, with Richard in his Oriental robes +of lovely colors, fully conscious of his good +looks, taking his position between the extended +tables of the dining room at the close of the +meal and there make known the plan for the +next day's excursion. "Ladies and Gentlemen!" +was generally followed by an audible +smile, the guests knowing full well what was +to follow—breakfast at the early hour of seven, +a ride from five to fifteen miles either by +donkey or chair, with a set speech when we +arrived at tombs or temples; but we had come +to see, why not muster up courage for still another +prolonged agony? I found books in the +library, most entertaining when off duty, by +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_136">[Pg 136]</a></span> +Mrs. Edwards and Charles Dudley Warner, +together with the book furnished by Cook to +each purchaser of a passage ticket. This attempt +to post up on what I saw, and what was +yet in store for me, precluded much sociability, +of which I am fully aware with such pleasant +people as we had on board, was my loss. I +denied myself much, but I was unable to cope +with both to any great extent, but I shall long +recall with pleasure the few hours I gave myself +in this delightful recreation.</p> + +<p>Our arrival at Luxor by sunset was well +timed. The beautiful rays of the departing god +seemed to throw over all the surroundings a halo. +We knew an early breakfast meant early to bed, +which command I was not slow in obeying. +At 9:00 a. m. we took donkeys for Karnak, +passing through the village on a market day, +where each man squatted before his salable +articles spread upon the ground under the +shade of some umbrageous tree. Through a +long road, lined at intervals, were the remains +of the Sphinx, of which we have so often +read. The ruins are most imposing, excavations +were still being made. The Nile's inundations +are fast making inroads, undermining +the foundations, especially at Luxor, +which temple is located so near the bank. We +linger and gaze on the stupendous work, even +in its crumbling, tottering condition it is one +of the wonders of the age. We find the +Scarabaeus are bought here to an advantage. +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_137">[Pg 137]</a></span> +The Arabs, however, have no scruples in selling +false beetles for the genuine ones that are +sometimes taken from the tombs in excavating. +They are becoming more and more rare. +Mummies, so diminutive, made of metal or +plaster, Stela, a small column, having neither +base or capital, which are sold as the genuine +antique, is manufactured almost within sight. +One of the amusing scenes on shipboard is to +see purchasers comparing these articles; their +ignorance of their value is laughable. The +beetle, or Scarabaeus, is a symbol with this ancient +people of "eternal duration." We are +told it lays its eggs near the shores of the +Nile, afterwards to roll them through the dust +and sand to a safe place of deposit, thus providing +for a perpetuation of their species. I +am not an admirer of the beetle, consequently +bought no reminders of the bug. I did buy +here a string of red cornelian beads, not for +their value but as good specimens. The trip +to the tombs of the kings, most laborious of +all, I declined to take. I did not feel I was +able, but by remaining alone on board of the +steamer was like choosing between two evils. +The days when the vessel is deserted the crew +go through a systematic house cleaning process. +Truly, there is not a dry place for the +sole of your foot. My only safety was in +bed, but even there intrusions were frequent. +Like all Oriental workmen, they sway the +body and keep time to the scrub brush and +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_138">[Pg 138]</a></span> +broom with their voices, in a monotonous wail +of Allah! Allah! After some six to eight +hours it grows a trifle irksome, as it is incessant, +so that I quite resolved before the day +was over that tombs were pleasant places to +visit and donkeys delightful animals upon +which to ride. When a half-hour's ride was +suggested, the next day, to the temple of +"Rameses the Great" and tomb known as "35," +I did not remain on deck, but on the contrary +wandered through the Judgment Hall of +Osiris, and through the temple of Medinah +Kaboo; also inspected a small temple of +"Thotmas III," passing the "Colons" on our +way to the small boats, to which we were carried +through the water in the arms of natives. +We lay at Luxor three days, leaving at 11:00 +a. m. the fourth morning after our arrival. We +stopped at Esneh, where another temple was +on exhibition, and proceeded to Edfoo, where +we tied up for the night. There we saw really +a wonderful temple, fresh from the hands of +the excavators. On the 12th of January we +arrived at Assouan, at 4:00 p. m., and small +boats were brought alongside the steamer for +those who wished to visit the "Elephantine +caves." Not to see it would have been just +the thing you should not have missed. And +again we buckled on the armor and struck out +direct from the shoulder. The sail around +the island was an agreeable pastime, but the +Arabs clamoring for backsheesh and for the +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_139">[Pg 139]</a></span> +sale of their beads, were beyond human endurance. +I felt almost murderous. I bought +a few strings of beads, and for days, whenever +I touched them, each one seemed to cry +aloud: backsheesh! backsheesh! We went +from Annan to Philae by train; and what a +train! No provision whatever for the comfort +of the traveler. If by chance a seat was +given you, you were in luck; if none was secured, +"you beat the bush" all the way through +the desert sands. The distance is not great. +In a half or three-quarters of an hour we are +on the spot which artists have sought and +many have longed for and died without the sight. +We lunch in among the ruins, and are then +led into the interior of the temple as it now +stands, falling and fallen. Crowds of little +Arab children offer their services as guides, +and I recall, with a sense of pathetic pleasure, +Mr. George Hale, with his crown of grey +hair, being led by one of these little girls. +"December and May"—old age and infancy. +She was not over five years old, poorly clad, +with her silver amulet on a leather string +around her neck, and barefooted. In her hand +she carried a Nile fly brush, with which she +would gently attempt to brush off from Mr. +Hale any invader, and in the same breath +would whisk it with a vengeance in the face +of any of her comrades who sought to take her +charge from her. It was an amusing scene. +Many purchase from these children their +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_140">[Pg 140]</a></span> +amulet. I could but wonder if they were punished +on returning to their homes for having +parted with their talisman, which are religiously +placed upon them in childhood. We now +return to our boats. We are to skirt the first +cataract of the Nile. We are divided into +groups, and small boats are provided for each +party. With fear and trembling we embark, +but confiding in the Arab pilot, who seldom +fails in the work assigned him, we soon regain +our equilibrium. To me it was not as perilous +as the descent of Lachine Rapids, in the St. +Lawrence River, nor more exciting. That +everlasting wail of Allah! Allah! was kept up +until we landed near our Rameses III, and until +we had filled well the bag with piasters +that was handed around. We were not able +to disembark. As I hastened alone to the +gang plank of our river home, I saw Mrs. John +A. Logan, whose boat had preceded ours, with +her head of crowning glory, stretched from +the low window of her cabin and in her hand +was the "Red, white and blue" unfurled to the +Nile zephyrs. I thought of Barbara Frietchie, +and exclaimed: "Take in your flag!" That +night there was a jollification on board, for +the day following we were to begin our descent +of the Nile. We took on board many +passengers who had gone up on the previous +trip of the Rameses III, and gone beyond to +the second and third cataract and had returned +to Assuan for the downward trip. Among +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_141">[Pg 141]</a></span> +these were the widow of Major General Jed Baxter, +of Washington, D. C., and also Mrs. Stroud, +of Philadelphia. Mrs. Logan brought Mrs. Baxter +to me, and introduced her. "Can this be +my Mrs. Baxter?" I said, and she replied: +"And this my Mrs. Hunt, of whom dear Senator +Morrill has so often spoken?"</p> + +<p>We were mutually bound together by one +common friend, who had, by his praise, made +us friends without ever having met before. We +were no longer strangers. We stopped again +at Luxor. There I had time, before the night +shades gathered around us, to call at the hotel +Luxor, where a gentleman with an attack of +malarial fever had been transferred on our +upward trip. His wife and daughter I had +become much interested in. They were from +the state of Maine, and we had mutual friends. +They were glad to see me again, and were +feeling most depressed in their isolation, but +were buoyant with the hope that the husband +and father would soon be able to be taken +back to Cairo. They had been able to secure +a trained nurse, and a good physician. I think +Luxor is a military post. Many of the passengers +improved the shining hours in revisiting +the bazaars and by moonlight the gay, +light-hearted and free among our young folks +went again to see the ruins of Karnak. We +bought many photographs here, which were +most satisfactory. We next visited Keneh, +where the jugs and gargoulets are made, for +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_142">[Pg 142]</a></span> +the Nile water. The factories are near by and +many purchased these porous amphorae, hoping +that in their own homes the water poured +in them might come out as deliciously cool as +did the water of the Nile.</p> + +<p>We stop at Dirneh and Ballianah, but at +Abydos we linger longer, where we take a seven-mile +ride to the temple of Seti, finding on those +sculptured walls much to admire. We lunched +again in the ruins, and having no desire to eat, +I fed through the iron-barred gate my share to +the poor, wretched Arab children that swarmed +around. I hate to recall these poor, down-trodden +people. Is life worth living to them? What +I declined to eat, they devoured with such voraciousness +that it almost made me hungry. I +am told Cook & Co. are regarded by these natives +as a Godsend. He surely does much towards +bringing them in touch with humanity. +And now a day's rest is to follow this tiresome +one, and until we reach Assouit we can rest +without any rude alarms, which will be at least +for twenty-four hours. Confusion, worse confounded, +was the scene at the landing at Assouit. +The wharf was piled high with parcels +of merchandise, the owner of each crying in a +deafening voice, the surpassing features of their +commodities, pushing and pulling each other to +establish their rights. We dare not pass through +this motley crowd to mount our donkeys until +our dragoman interfered, striking indiscriminately +right and left with his stick, which too often +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_143">[Pg 143]</a></span> +fell upon their heads or backs. We did succeed +in examining the rhinoceros canes, made +of hides, which sold at $5.00 apiece, and of teak +wood, which, we were told, were inclined to +splinter. However, we took our chances. There +were also embroidered portieres, and draperies, +most elaborate Soudanese embroideries, specimens +of which I gladly possessed myself. If the +crowd is too threatening, you can barter from +the steamer's deck. These Arabs are very dexterous; +they bundle their goods, and with a +grace we know not of, throw them up to the +deck for inspection. Woe betide the unfortunate +one who attempts to return the articles by the +same process, if by mischance the precious +bundle falls into the water. Sheiks rush in +frenzy, and the noise from the crowd grows like +the roar of a mighty cataract; and in one case +of the kind, where the party was unlucky in +his aim, he was compelled, for the peace of the +passengers, to pay for the lost articles. I heard +among the crowd on deck some one exclaim: +"This is great fun!" Perhaps it is, but I failed +to appreciate it.</p> + +<p>At 4:00 p. m., the 19th of January, we landed +in Cairo, a tired but a wiser crowd, and we are +not yet through the wilderness. O, for a Moses! +Why did he not survive the Deluge? Backsheesh +from every one of that crew. Those who had +brushed the dust or sand from your shoes or +clothes as you flew by them at each landing +place; those with shoo-fly or brushes, whom +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_144">[Pg 144]</a></span> +we had never encountered during the entire trip, +were in line for a piaster, to say nothing of the +big fees expected by the male attendants at table +and in your cabin. But greatest of all were the +expectations of the dragomen, who were most +sullen if anything less than one or two pound +note or gold piece was offered them. It is safe +to say to go under "Thomas A. Cook & Co.'s +auspices up the Nile," you cannot get off without +paying at least three hundred dollars for a +three-weeks' excursion. Already, competing +companies at reduced prices are manifesting +themselves, and I heard with perfect satisfaction +to their patrons, but the Sheiks, they say, are +bought up by the "Cook's." How much of this +is Nile gossip, I did not attempt to fathom. I +had made the trip; never missed but one excursion, +and still being in the body, gave thanks +that it was finished.</p> + +<p>We were again booked for Shephards. What +a cosmopolitan crowd gathered in the exchange +of that hostelry that evening. Many permanent +guests for the season; many more in a transition +condition; many waiting for the return of our +vessel, as it was the best on the river, to go again +on that bourne, from which most travelers return. +The room allotted me was on the ground +floor; I think in my weakness I would have accepted +it, but Mrs. Stroud and Baxter, my patron +saints, declared it unfit for me, and a cot +was placed in a large upper room which had +been assigned these ladies, and I was forced by +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_145">[Pg 145]</a></span> +them to take the best bed. At the end of three +days the crowd grew less and accommodations +better, and a sunny, bright room was given me +all to myself. Can such kindness as those friends +conferred upon me ever be forgotten? Not by +me, nor those of the name who come after me. +One is not apt to forget an "oasis in the desert." +Having decided to remain in Cairo for at least +two weeks, in anticipation of meeting a friend +who had followed in my wake "around the +world," I decided to have some repairs made in +my wardrobe, such as old buttons taken off, new +ones in their place; new veils, new gloves, etc. +All this was done at a little shop near by, kept +by an English woman named Cole. There Mrs. +Baxter accompanied me, and I came out quite +renewed, as far as my clothes were concerned. +Having a spark of life yet remaining, and with +my usual amount of energy, I was again persuaded +to go to Jerusalem with a party, rather +than to remain for the Bombay steamer that +was, I supposed, to bring my friend with whom +I had agreed to return home. When the proposition +was made me by Mrs. Logan—I will confess, +even to my grandsons, to a little irreverence—the +very thought of more temples to see +and more tombs to encounter, was a trifle too +much for my endurance, and I simply said "No! +Not if I expected to meet my Lord!" for to tell +you the truth, I expected and felt He would +come and meet me if rest was not soon obtained. +But after a week's sojourn in Cairo I agreed to +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_146">[Pg 146]</a></span> +join the party and go over to Jerusalem and +Damascus for a brief stay of ten days. Plans +were made with T. Cook & Sons for dragomen +and provisions, when all were frustrated by +quarantine being declared. Our only escape +from Egypt was to be made by Brindisi and +Marseilles. All ports of the Turkish dominion +were shut off from us on account of several +cases of cholera which had broken out in Alexandria. +"To arms" was never before more readily +responded to than by the inmates of that caravansary. +Tickets were secured by those who had +not yet bought. I had, in purchasing mine at +Bombay, bought through to Marseilles; luggage +was brought forward, big bags, little bags and +my "Cheap Jack" was much in evidence. Lunch +baskets were prepared by the hotel for the journey +to Ismalia that resembled great wooden +bird cages. Among those friends we left behind +were those destined for the Nile trip and a few +habitues of Cairo, not easily frightened. With +homesick eyes, those of our country followed us, +and as a parting gift gave us lovely bouquets of +flowers.</p> + +<p>I must, before leaving Cairo, give an account +of a large ball given in honor of those who had +been up the Nile, and those who were awaiting +a departure thence. It was given by the proprietors +of Shepheards. The salon was cleared +of its tables and the military band assisted the +house musicians in furnishing music. The +crowd was large, but I speak truthfully and +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_147">[Pg 147]</a></span> +without exaggeration when I say that American +women take the palm in dancing. There is a +stiffness, a want of gracefulness, in those ladies +of foreign nations. We were shocked by the +innovation of the British army officers, with +their red coats, and swords dangling at their +side, which were permissible in this Oriental +city, but when their spurs were worn, to the detriment +of the gauzy draperies of ladies participating +in the dance, it was a breach we could +not overlook. +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_148">[Pg 148]</a></span></p> + +<hr class="chap" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_149">[Pg 149]</a></span></p> +<h2><a id="FROM_EGYPT_TO_FRANCE"></a>FROM EGYPT TO FRANCE</h2> + +<p>And now we are in Ismalia, our sailing port. +Two steamers are momentarily expected; one +bound for Brindisi, the other for Marseilles. The +poor hotel accommodations were emphasized +when this avalanche of people came down upon +them. After baggage was identified and there +was no room in the inn for many of us, I selected +a sofa in the drawing room, on which to +rest till the signal was given that the "Caledonia" +was in sight. It was not a bed of roses, but +many around me had a worse accommodation; +but upon it I became half unconscious from +sheer exhaustion, when a tender hand was laid +upon me, and a kind, persuasive voice whispered +in my ear: "Come with me; there is room for +you with us." Almost reluctantly I arose and +followed Mrs. Logan, who had, through her +well-known forethought, secured two apartments +for herself and party, the latter having +agreed to double up and give me the extra cot +in Mrs. Logan's room. We expected surely the +cry would come at midnight, and we slept with +one eye open to sight our steamer's coming. It +was a cold, moonlight night. The desert's glistening +sands were on one side of us, the sparkling +waters of Lake Tesmah in the Suez Canal +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_150">[Pg 150]</a></span> +on the other. There was a bird with a lone, +peculiar cry that added loneliness to the scene, +and when the morning light dawned upon us we +were still in Ismalia. A most inhospitable breakfast +was served us, and at nine o'clock came the +welcome cry: "Ship ahoy!" The wharf from off +which these steamers anchored was near to the +hotel and a procession of yawning pedestrians +was soon on its wending way, followed by innumerable +dragomen, who were still in anticipation +of one more backsheesh, and a crowd of +blear-eyed, frowsy Arab children brought up the +rear. Breakfast was awaiting us on the good +old ship "Caledonia," and a warm welcome from +Capt. Andrews. My spirits rose, and my traveling +friends, Mrs. Wilbur and her daughter, +soon were on deck, taking in the surroundings. +We landed at Port Said about 5:00 p. m. I invested +my last piaster in an olive wood paper +cutter. Port Said is said to be the most wicked +place on earth. As I hailed from Chicago I +thought perhaps honors were even. We did not +go ashore, but got our steamer chairs in readiness +for the next day, as we were told we would +have a choppy sea, and we fully realized the +truth of the prophecy. Our cabins proved the +safe retreat, and there I remained until we +reached Brindisi, at 6:00 a. m., February the +5th. At 5:30 we were called on deck by a visit +from the health officers, as our vessel hailed +from an infected district. All bore the inspection +and we soon set sail again and landed in Marseilles +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_151">[Pg 151]</a></span> +the 7th of February. My baggage was +soon O. K.'d, and a cab took me with my luggage +to the hotel. Later in the day I took a drive +through the city, and was much impressed with +the growth since a former visit in 1881. Off the +coast of Marseilles is built the famous prison +Chateau d'If, immortalized by the author of +Monte Cristo, a fine view of which is seen from +the church of Notre Dame, built on a high rock +on the outskirts of the city. The train for Paris +leaves at 9:00 p. m., and after a fair night's rest, +I am in the French custom house, where I have no +trouble. A cab is secured for me and I land safely +in time for coffee and rolls at Madame Therries, +where I am expected. A hasty toilet and refreshments +taken, gave me fresh strength, and I soon +found my way to Brown & Shipley, bankers, +where I found eight letters from home. I took up +one, the latest date; found from its contents "all +were well," and I retraced my steps to my own +apartment, where I spent a most blessed day, +reading and writing letters.</p> + +<p>Paris, as it is to-day (1896) strikes a visitor +as one of the most cleanly, most attractive cities +in the world with its triumphal arches, which +Napoleon had erected in commemoration of +his victories, one of which, "The Arc de +Triomphe," was begun in 1806, although the +work was not completed till 1836, long after the +founder and architect had passed away. This +arch is the largest in the world. The arch is +ninety feet high and forty-five feet wide. It is +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_152">[Pg 152]</a></span> +considered too narrow for its height, and the +insignificant ornaments along the top of the +structure destroy all grandeur of outline. You +will find "Hare's Walks" your best guide book +for Paris and its surroundings. A year and a +half's researches are herein condensed. I never +fail to revisit Versailles, when the opportunity +presents itself. Your early studies in history +will enable you, in later life, after seeing this +beautiful architectural pile, to long for a more +extended history. The fountains are only in +full play on the Sabbath day, and throngs of +people of all walks in life, are seen in these +grounds and crowd the corridors of historical +paintings. La Madeline, one of the popular +churches, resembles a Pagan temple. Begun by +Louis XV (1777) as a church, and finished under +Louis Philippe in 1832, it resembles the +Parthenon of the Greeks. You will hear fine +music at the Church of "La Trinita," but the +Parthenon is full of interest. The first church on +or near this site was built by Clovis, and dedicated +to St. Genevieve; it was burnt by the Normans +and after numerous changing of owners, +it was finally, by the order of Louis XV, torn +down and rebuilt, as a votive offering to St. +Genevieve, who he believed to be his patron +saint during his extreme illness. The first stone +of the new church was laid by this king in 1764, +and was completed by the architect, Rondelet, +the pupil of the first architect Soufflot (deceased), +in 1780. It is the burial place of illustrious +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_153">[Pg 153]</a></span> +citizens. Its possession was in a transition +state for years; first a church of God, then +a resting place for the immortal dead. At length, +in 1885, it was taken from the worship of God +and given Victor Hugo, whose tomb to the +right as you enter is usually the first to be +shown. The tombs of Voltaire and Rousseau are +empty, having been pillaged during the revolution. +Pere La Chaise and Montmartre are cemeteries +where familiar names are recorded on +tombstones and mausoleums. In the former lie +Abelard and Heloise, the tragedienne Rachel, +and the open sarcophagus ready for the remains +of Sarah Bernhardt, when she, too, shall lay off +this mortal coil. There are in Pere La Chaise, +and in Montmartre, many musical celebrities. +While I was there, in April or May (1896), Ambrose +Thomas' funeral cortege solemnly wended +its way from La Trinita to this field of tombs. +The funeral dress of the Frenchman is what we +term full evening dress. The bier or catafalque is +clothed in black broadcloth, embroidered in silver. +The floral offerings are piled upon it; colossal +wreaths of violets and immortelles, strung +on wire, are emblematic in their designs. No +music on that lonely march on foot but the quiet +tread beats a requiem for the dead.</p> + +<p>Fine views are obtained from the galleries of +the Trocadero. In the same vicinity is the "Palais +d'Industrie," which was used in 1852-55 for the +great exposition, and will be utilized again in +1900 for another fair. The shops of Paris are +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_154">[Pg 154]</a></span> +small; the windows seemingly contain most of +the stock. We must except those great magazines, +the "Louvre" and the "Bon Marche."</p> + +<p>"The Musee de Luxembourg, by the order of +Louis XVIII, contains only such works of +living artists as were acquired by the state. +The works of each artist are removed to the galleries +of the Louvre ten years after his death; +the pictures are constantly changing. The walks +in the Garden of the Luxembourg are the best +types of ancient palace pleasance. They are +considered the pleasantest spots in Paris. The +character of the Louvre has changed from a +fortress or a state prison (1367) to a picture +gallery. It was the great dungeon tower in the +center of this palace, or castle, called the +Louvre, that the great feudataires came to take +or renew the feudal oaths; it was there the great +ceremonies took place. The Louvre was enlarged +by Charles V, who added many towers +and surrounded it with a moat, which was supplied +from the Seine. He made a palace into a +complete rectangular, always preserving the +great central dungeon tower. Francis I destroyed +this tower (1527). It took five months +to do this, as it was as strong as the day it was +built. It was regretted by the populace, because +they lost the pleasure of seeing great lords imprisoned +there. The existing palace was begun +under Pierre Lescot in 1541. During Henry II's +reign of twelve years, Lescot continued his +work. After Henry II's death his widow, +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_155">[Pg 155]</a></span> +Catherine de Medici, came with her children to +live in the new palace. Henry IV united the +buildings that Catherine de Medici had built +with those she had previously built, which, +under the name of Tuilleries, were still outside +the limits of the town. And from this +time no one touched the Louvre till Richelieu demolished +all that remained of the feudal buildings +and used only in rebuilding the existing wings as +the half of his facade of his new Louvre, and +built two others on the same plan to make the +building a perfect square.</p> + +<p>While the minority of Louis XIV lasted, +Anne of Austria lived with her children in the +Palais Cardinal, now Palais Royal, and even +while the work was going on at the Louvre, +apartments were given to the exiled Henrietta +Maria of England, daughter of Henry IV, who +met with most generous treatment from her sister-in-law. +Little more was done toward improving +the Louvre through the reigns of Louis +XV and XVI, and then came the revolution +(1848). Napoleon III determined, as he was +in power, to unite the Tuilleries and Louvre into +one great whole. This was carried out and accomplished +in 1857."</p> + +<p>During my visits to Paris (1881 and 1896) +the repairs to the central facade of the Tuilleries +had not been made. This unmeaning, desolate +space presents to the mind the ruthless hand of +war in the conflict of man's ambition for supremacy. +Before the revolution of 1876, historians +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_156">[Pg 156]</a></span> +tell us that between the beautiful chestnut +avenues, across the brilliant flowers and +quaint orange trees of the garden, beyond the +sparkling glory of the fountains, rose the majestic +facade of a palace, infinitely harmonious in +color, indescribably picturesque and noble in +form, and interesting beyond description from +its associations, the one spot to be visited by +strangers, which attracted the sympathies of the +world.</p> + +<p>We see the Arc de Triomphe du Carousal, +built in 1806, by Fontaine, for Napoleon I. The +car and horses are a reproduction of the famous +group on St. Marks at Venice, which Napoleon +captured, but were afterwards restored by the +allies. The street scenes of Paris are most entertaining, +but to enjoy it in its perfection, go +when you are young, before your muscles grow +stiff and your eyes dim, for the "run for your +life" requires agility and good vision.</p> + +<hr class="chap" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_157">[Pg 157]</a></span></p> +<h2><a id="HOMEWARD_BOUND"></a>HOMEWARD BOUND</h2> + +<p>We now bid "au revoir" to Paris, and cross +the English channel, from Calais to Dover, without +any great inconvenience. And mighty Neptune +did not call on us for many returns of the +day. We proceed from Charing Cross station +to the hotel of the same name, where we remain +until we obtain more pleasant surroundings in +the west end of London. Daily excursions, always +on top of omnibuses, when there were +seats for us, run to the Picadilly, Pall Mall, down +Regent and Oxford streets and into Dickens' +haunts, when time afforded, out to St. John's +Woods, and without fail to Kensington, to the +Museum, which is most absorbing of time and +interest. We take carriages and drive through +Carleton terrace and through streets where the +city homes of the royalty are located. To drive +in Hyde Park or Rotten Row, with a crest on +your carriage door, would be fine, but as we had +left our crests at home we were denied many of +those privileges. I recall here with pleasure an +opportunity that was afforded my daughter and +myself, in 1881, while on a visit to Kensington. +While wandering in the vicinity of Albert Hall, +we were attracted by crowds of people gathering +roundabout its doors. On inquiry we learned +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_158">[Pg 158]</a></span> +a bazaar was in progress therein for the benefit +of some London hospital. By paying the admittance +fee of one pound each ($5.00) we +could enter, where we could see royalty, each +person of note in his or her booth with the name +attached. "Maidens like moths are caught by +glare," and we were soon in regal atmosphere. +Here were ladies of high degree, dressed in +Queen Anne's style, who had been brought +thither by lackeys in sedan chairs of that ancient +class. Most marvelous was the display of +jewels which met our bewildering gaze, and +these high-born ladies, with their pretty feet and +high insteps, delicately formed hands and tapering +fingers, gave evidence of good blood. We +were approached by these noble men and +women, soliciting us to take chances in prizes +that were to be raffled off, but we declined for +two reasons. In the first place, we could not +see how we could accommodate in our steamer +trunks the huge Chinese umbrella, under whose +shade at least fifty people or more could find +shelter at a garden party, and the greater reason +why we did not invest was that our entrance fee +was quite enough for the good cause. However, +we felt ourselves most favored at this extraordinary +opportunity of witnessing the gentle +manners, and hearing the musical intonation of +voice that marks good birth.</p> + +<p>On Sunday afternoon we went in search, in +the east end of London, for the "Palace of Delight," +and its surroundings. We took the tramway +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_159">[Pg 159]</a></span> +and inquired of a demure, missionary-looking +lady, the way to the most degraded quarters. +She replied: "You are in that region now," and +having no male escort, we were not particularly +over-confident of our position. The streets were +swarming with children; some fairly well clad, +others ragged and soiled. Groups of men and +women, many in Sunday attire, others whose +habiliments were evidences of great want and +poverty. But few were hilarious. On the contrary, +serious countenances betrayed earnest +conversation between and by these groups of +people. We encountered no special exhibition +of degradation; but upon the women's faces we +detected the marks of toil and care, and in many +of their offspring, idiotic, expressionless faces. +Woman's work among women may bring in +God's own good time a fulfillment of things +hoped for. Again, I recall a scene I witnessed +in 1881. We were inmates of Mr. Burr's hotel, +as he termed it. Among his guests were people +of some distinction. Mrs. Mary Livermore, of +Massachusetts, was in this category. She had +been sent over by her state or the city of Boston, +to investigate the "Coffee Houses" of London, +and Mr. Burr was known as a philanthropist +in that city. Preparations were made to +see London by gas light, and I was among the +few invited to go with Mrs. Livermore. Two +carriages were provided for the party, and each +held besides four occupants, a seat either for Mr. +Burr or his son, with the respective coachmen. + +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_160">[Pg 160]</a></span>We drove to the station and then took the steam +cars to "Wandsworth," a short distance from +London. On disembarking we walked to one of +the public resorts known as a "Coffee House," +where light refreshments, with tea, coffee and +chocolate are offered at a trifling price; also a bottled +drink labelled Ozone, which had no intoxicating +influence. These institutions were for the congregating +of the laboring classes, where they +might spend an hour or so in discussing the news +of the day, or in social intercourse, where no intoxicating +beverages could be obtained, and +which served to entertain and keep them off the +streets or from dens of infamy. Here husband +and wife, with clean hands and faces, and perhaps +sweethearts for aught we knew, were apparently +happy in this hour of recreation. Mrs. Livermore +was asked to speak to that body of people, +and her satellites drew close around her, not +knowing how she would be received. Suffice to +say that motherly face drew the attention of all, +and the appeals she made to men and women +present drew many a tear from the female portion, +and to suppress an emotion, an apologetic +cough issued from rough exteriors. We retraced +our steps to London and there our carriages +awaited us. We were driven to the "Seven +Dials," and worse places, if possible, where we +were subjected to jeers and penetrating glances +into our carriage by the passers-by. Across +these streets were hung clothes lines and under +the glare of electric or gas lights could be inspected +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_161">[Pg 161]</a></span> +the second-handed garments that were +hung thereon. Markets, whose stale and unhealthy +condition revealed itself to our sensitive +nostrils, and we were glad to turn away +from this unkempt crowd to a theatre in close +proximity, whose doors were thrown open +early to those who could afford a penny or more +to enter. On the stage was a young girl, dressed +in clean apparel. A check apron gathered at her +neck and fell nearly to the tops of her shoes. +She was amusing the audience with a dance +they called a "hoe down." She kept time to the +music by the clatter of slip-shod shoes. Then +some "Punch and Judy" exhibition followed, and +refreshments similar to those we saw at Wandsworth, +were passed around, from which the hungry +could appease their hunger, and with the +tea and coffee, their thirst was satisfied for a mere +trifle.</p> + +<p>Thus the hours wore away which might +have otherwise been spent, and would have +rendered these people unfit for the next day's +work. By ten o'clock all was over, and a +very orderly crowd dispersed, we will hope, +to their homes. The theaters in London are +well patronized. I saw among other plays +the "Prisoner of Zenda," and realized fully +that to wear the court train, and handle it, and +yourself gracefully must be to wear it often. +The boxes are well patronized by coroneted +women. I saw no one who struck me as being +to the manor born. The universal law of +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_162">[Pg 162]</a></span> +removing all head covering is most strictly observed. +The average appearance of the English +woman does not compare with dainty, +well-gowned French woman, but neither English +nor French rival the American woman, +when she starts out to please. No one visits +London for the first time without seeing the +tower, with its grewsome walls and its regal +splendor of the crown jewels. The national +and royal academies claim many hours, and +to visit the churches and cathedrals one makes +haste.</p> + +<p>We were in London on Easter Sunday. We +heard in his own pulpit Dr. Parker and, more +than that, his wife, now deceased, stood on the +left of the pulpit. Before the sermon by her +husband, she appealed to the women of London, +as well as the women of every nation, to +spare the birds, and repeated several verses of +her own composition in their behalf.</p> + +<p>We fully intended to visit the cathedral +towns of England, but sickness of one of our +party, deprived us of that privilege, and after +a lot of shopping, and more sight-seeing, we +spent one day at Windsor, and saw the Eton +College grounds. Not far away, but in sight, +I believe, of Windsor Castle, is "Stoke Pogis," +made memorable by "Gray's Elegy."</p> + +<p>Her majesty, the queen, was not at home. +We were shown one room in particular, which +has been thrown open to the public since my +visit there in 1881; that was, the one containing +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_163">[Pg 163]</a></span> +the "jubilee gifts of 1897," when hearts +and hands must have been emptied in making +these royal presents. The treasures of +India were there, those of Afric's sunny shores, +and from every nation and every tribe that +acknowledged Victoria. Queen and empress, +each and all, poured forth their trophies at her +feet. Her stables were shown us, well stocked +with thoroughbred steeds from far off Arabia +and the Shetland Isles.</p> + +<p>"Time and tide waits for no man," and we +are booked for the "Augusta Victoria," that +sails April——, 1896. Some love to roam, but +I like it better when I am nearer home. Our +trip across the Atlantic is not what we hoped +for, and a choppy sea with an occasional swell +made us feel uncomfortable. I had the pleasure +in Paris of making the acquaintance of a +gentleman, wife and young lady daughter, who +invited me to return to America in their company, +and seldom, if ever, has it been my lot +to have my lines cast among more delightful +people than they and, although our homes are +far apart, my heart often goes out to them.</p> + +<p>When our own home port is sighted and +the sensation the appearance of a custom-house +officer always creates is over, and the +welcome "O. K." is visible on our luggage, we +feel like taking off our chapeau to "Liberty Enlightening +the World."</p> + +<p>It is midnight when we land on the Jersey +shore, and the gallant captain, no less courteous +<span class="pagenum"><a id="Page_164">[Pg 164]</a></span> +on land than on sea, bids us return to our +cabins and rest, when we have obeyed our +country's mandate, the custom house officer.</p> + +<p>A hasty breakfast and a few good-byes are +spoken, and my heart swells within me, as I +spring from the gang-plank to the shore, and the +lines</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"My native country, thee,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Land of the noble free,<br /></span> +<span class="i1">Thy name I love;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">I love thy rocks and rills,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Thy woods and templed hills,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">My heart with rapture thrills<br /></span> +<span class="i1">Like that above,"<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>seem to express all and more than all that I +could say.</p> + +<p>A short stay of a few hours in New York, +and an uneventful trip on the New York Central +Railroad brought me into Chicago, where +those nearest and dearest to me were in waiting +to bid me welcome home. And now in +closing, my dear children, I will say: "That if +the work I have done in leaving you these impressions +and footprints, gives the pleasure +hoped for, I will feel compensated, notwithstanding +I have labored when the flesh was +weak and my vision clouded. When you +have reached my age (sixty-three), when +youth and vigor are not in their fulness, this +work of love may then be appreciated."</p> + +<p class="detail">Your Grandmother,<br /> +ELEONORA HUNT.</p> + +<p>Nov. 20, 1897.</p> + + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg's My Trip Around the World, by Eleonora Hunt + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK MY TRIP AROUND THE WORLD *** + +***** This file should be named 33079-h.htm or 33079-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + http://www.gutenberg.org/3/3/0/7/33079/ + +Produced by Asad Razzaki and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was +produced from images generously made available by The +Internet Archive/American Libraries.) + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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