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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Hastings and Neighbourhood, by Walter Higgins
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Hastings and Neighbourhood
+
+Author: Walter Higgins
+
+Illustrator: E. W. Haslehust
+
+Release Date: July 1, 2010 [EBook #33042]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HASTINGS AND NEIGHBOURHOOD ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Al Haines
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Cover art]
+
+
+
+
+======================================================================
+
+[Frontispiece: THE OLD TOWN, HASTINGS]
+
+A few old timbered houses, the two churches, one on each side of the
+slope, form, with the castle, the sum total of the tangible reminders
+of ancient days.
+
+(_See page 10_)
+
+======================================================================
+
+
+HASTINGS
+
+AND NEIGHBOURHOOD
+
+
+
+Described by Walter Higgins
+
+Painted by E. W. Haslehust
+
+
+
+[Illustration: Title page]
+
+
+
+BLACKIE AND SON LIMITED
+
+LONDON GLASGOW AND BOMBAY
+
+1920
+
+
+
+
+BEAUTIFUL ENGLAND
+
+BATH AND WELLS--BOURNEMOUTH AND
+CHRISTCHURCH--CAMBRIDGE--CANTERBURY--CHESTER AND THE DEE--THE CORNISH
+RIVIERA--DARTMOOR--DICKENS-LAND--THE DUKERIES--THE ENGLISH
+LAKES--EXETER--FOLKESTONE AND DOVER--HAMPTON COURT--HASTINGS AND
+NEIGHBOURHOOD--HEREFORD AND THE WYE--THE ISLE OF WIGHT--THE NEW
+FOREST--NORWICH AND THE BROADS--OXFORD--THE PEAK DISTRICT--RIPON AND
+HARROGATE--SCARBOROUGH--SHAKESPEARE-LAND--SWANAGE AND
+NEIGHBOURHOOD--THE THAMES--WARWICK AND LEAMINGTON--THE HEART OF
+WESSEX--WINCHESTER--WINDSOR CASTLE--YORK.
+
+
+
+BEAUTIFUL SCOTLAND
+
+EDINBURGH--THE SHORES OF FIFE.
+
+
+BEAUTIFUL IRELAND
+
+LEINSTER--ULSTER--MUNSTER--CONNAUGHT.
+
+
+BEAUTIFUL SWITZERLAND
+
+LUCERNE--VILLARS AND CHAMPERY--CHAMONIX--LAUSANNE AND ITS ENVIRONS.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+
+HASTINGS
+
+PEVENSEY AND HURSTMONCEUX
+
+BATTLE ABBEY
+
+ECCLESBOURNE AND FAIRLIGHT
+
+WINCHELSEA
+
+RYE
+
+BODIAM
+
+
+
+
+LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
+
+
+The Old Town, Hastings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . _Frontispiece_
+
+Hastings Castle
+
+Hastings and St. Leonards from the Castle
+
+St. Leonards Gardens
+
+Pevensey Castle
+
+The Gateway, Battle Abbey
+
+Fairlight Glen
+
+The Strand Gate, Winchelsea
+
+Winchelsea Church
+
+Rye
+
+Rye Church
+
+Bodiam Castle
+
+
+[Illustration: Hastings headpiece]
+
+
+
+
+HASTINGS
+
+Hastings is the gateway into an enchanted garden.
+
+Between the hills and the sea it lies--the most romantic province in
+this England of ours.  Scarcely a place in it seems to belong to this
+present: from end to end it is built up almost entirely of memories.
+The very repetition of the names--Rye, Winchelsea, Pevensey, Battle,
+Bodiam, Hurstmonceux--conjures up the past in all its magnificence and
+all its sadness.  Nowhere in so small a space shall you find so many
+monuments to the greatness of England's former days, to the
+imperishable glory of her people; nowhere in our coasts shall you find
+a stretch of land so crowded with the ghosts of dead men and dead
+empires.
+
+If for this alone, the territory, no matter how ill-favoured and
+unattractive, would be worth visiting and revisiting.  But there is yet
+another call--that of the intrinsic beauty of the country-side.  And
+the call here is insistent.  Hills and the sea; great folding downs and
+little valleys dropping fatness; immense stretches of lonely marsh and
+the nestling charms of copse-hidden villages; gentlest of streams
+slipping lazily through peacefullest of domains; wildest of breakers
+spending themselves at the base of steep tawny cliffs.  Thus is the
+land compact.  One is always reminded of a passage from Mark Twain:
+"That beauty which is England is alone; it has no duplicate.  It is
+made up of very simple details, just grass, and trees, and shrubs, and
+roads, and hedges, and gardens, and houses, and churches, and castles,
+and here and there a ruin, and over all a mellow dreamland of history.
+But its beauty is incomparable and all its own."  And search where you
+will--north, south, east, west--nowhere can you come upon a spot to
+which these words might with greater fitness be applied; for this
+sequestered little area is the microcosm of England.
+
+Despite its wilderness of bricks and mortar, Hastings itself is, under
+certain conditions, a place by no means unbeautiful.  Possibly it is
+from the sea that it appears in happiest mood.  One can take a boat on
+a high summer's morning, when the sun is shining gaily on its steep
+grass-capped cliffs, its fragment of castle ruin, its red and blue-grey
+roofs, when the sea is mazing away into every tint of emerald and
+sapphire.  Then it is a place fair to behold and pleasing to remember.
+Or one can clamber to the top of the castle hill, and, Janus-like,
+comprehend the town in its entirety--eastwards the old town and the
+Past; westwards the modern watering-place and the Future.  Then it is a
+place for soliloquy and moralizing.
+
+Of the very early history of Hastings we know practically nothing, save
+that it seems to have been for many years a place apart.  Shut off from
+the west by the invious flats of Pevensey, then one vast network of
+lagoons: from the east by the greater marsh of Romney; secluded on the
+north by the grey mystery of Andredesweald, which in those days came as
+far south as the top of Fairlight Hill, the people experienced a
+certain splendid isolation.  So much so, in fact, that in the early
+records it was quite customary to refer to them as a race apart, as
+distinct as either of their nearest neighbours, the Jutes of Kent or
+the Saxons of Sussex.  "And all Kent and Sussex and Hastings" was a
+phrase running easily from the pens of ancient chroniclers.
+
+No one knows their origin.  There was a tribe of Hastengi dwelling on
+the seaboard between the Elbe and what is now Denmark, having as a
+chieftain one Haesten, a piratical Dane, with whose name that of the
+town is often linked (erroneously, say some).  In all probability,
+following on some raid rather more extensive and successful than usual,
+a party of these Hastengi came by this district as an allotment, and
+chose to settle here, bringing over their families and herds.  Maybe
+thus the town was originated.
+
+One of their earliest tasks, doubtless, was the construction of a
+stronghold, either the strengthening of an existing British earthwork
+or the formation of an entirely new one.  The conditions of life
+demanded that they should possess such a fortification, a place which
+should be at once the residence of the chief and a refuge for the
+people in time of danger.  And thus it happened that ere long there
+came into existence the Hastinga-ceastre, mention of which is made in
+the Anglo-Saxon Chronicle in 1050: "A little before that [the murder of
+Beorn by Sweyn] the men of Hastinga-ceastre and thereabouts won two of
+his ships with two of their ships and slew all the men and brought the
+ships to Sandwich to the King".  But prior to 1050 the town must have
+attained to a considerable maritime strength and commercial eminence,
+for in 924 Athelstan founded a mint here.  The site of this successful
+Saxon town and harbour is a matter of conjecture; only the hurrying sea
+knows where it lies.
+
+History proper begins with the coming of the Norman adventurer,
+although, singularly enough, that worthy paid little attention to the
+town.  Landing at Pevensey on 28th September, 1066, William made his
+way to Hastinga-ceastre, which he occupied without much show of
+resistance (despite the picture of burning houses in the Bayeux
+Tapestry), for the ships had gone north with Harold, and the folks
+around had neither the means nor the mind to fight.  He stayed in the
+district a fortnight, scouring round for provisions and terrorizing the
+natives.  During that time he set to work to build some sort of a
+castle, probably on or near the spot where the ancient camp had stood,
+and where later the Castle proper eventually rose.  This we gather from
+the Bayeux Tapestry, which depicts the digging and timbering of a
+makeshift stronghold.  On 14th October William marched northwards to
+meet Harold, and the famous Battle of Hastings, or Senlac, was fought.
+
+Thence onward the town seems to have had a very chequered career.
+Previous to the coming of the Normans the encroachments of the sea and
+the gradual silting up of the old harbour (wherever it was) had
+rendered necessary the laying down of a new town in a securer place,
+and in all probability the building of the town between the east and
+west cliffs was in that way begun--at a spot far to the south of the
+present Old Town, of course.  The township thus commenced was the _New
+Burgh_ afterwards mentioned in Domesday Book, and placed by William
+under the jurisdiction of his kinsman, Robert, Count of Eu, and of the
+Abbot of Fecamp.
+
+The Norman occupation heralded a period of prosperity, for everything
+was done by William to foster good relationship between the kingdom and
+the duchy.  The continual passage of the monks between France and
+England, the importation of Caen stone for the building of the abbey
+(done until similar stone was discovered near at hand), made for
+commercial growth and stimulated that shipbuilding industry which the
+proximity of Andredesweald rendered possible.  Robert of Eu at once
+replaced the hastily-formed wooden fortress by a small stone castle,
+and this was added to from time to time.  And so the gradual progress
+went on till the days of the completion of the Abbey in the reign of
+the Red King: when Hastings reached its heyday.
+
+Not long, however, did it remain thus in the full flush of existence,
+for from the time of Stephen onwards it began steadily to decay.  Why
+Hastings ever was the premier port of the Cinque Ports Confederacy it
+is difficult to say.  There were, as the name suggests, five
+towns--Hastings, Sandwich, Dover, Romney, and Hythe; and in addition
+there were Winchelsea and Rye, which differed merely in name, being
+called the Antient Towns.  If Hastings were ever the most successful of
+these, it soon yielded pride of place to its neighbour and rival,
+Winchelsea.  The sovereigns, especially the Angevins, gradually
+transferred their attentions to the more easterly rivals, proffering no
+royal aid even when Hastings suffered badly.  Slowly, therefore, but
+certainly, the town sank to an insignificant position, with just here
+and there a tiny patch of more glorious life; and it revived again only
+as a result of one of the vagaries of fashion.
+
+It was about 1750 that it took on its second lease of life, soon after
+the time when Brighton emerged from the obscurity of a small
+fishing-village to form the fashionable watering-place.  Society
+doctors about that time discovered and began to recommend the
+advantages of sea-bathing; and, the vogue spreading, Hastings began
+rapidly to extend.  When the Duke of Wellington brought his wife hither
+in 1806 there were less than four thousand inhabitants; but little by
+little the cosy valley, where the old town had so long nestled, ceased
+to be big enough, so that the town overflowed its confines; and
+eventually the modern resort commenced to flourish, west of the Castle
+hill--like a garish fungoid growth at the end of some fallen monarch of
+the forest.  It was this modern development that excited the bitterness
+of Charles Lamb when he wrote his well-known tirade: "I love town or
+country; but this detestable Cinque Port is neither....  There is no
+sense of home at Hastings.  It is a place of fugitive resort, an
+heterogeneous assemblage of sea-mews and stockbrokers, Amphitrites of
+the town, and misses that coquet with the Ocean.  If it were what it
+was in its primitive state, and what it ought to have remained, a fair,
+honest fishing-town, and no more, it were something--with a few
+straggling fishermen's huts scattered about, artless as its cliffs, and
+with their materials filched from them, it were something.  I could
+abide to dwell with Meshech, to assort with fisher-swains, and
+smugglers....  But it is the visitants from town, that come here to say
+that they have been here, with no more relish of the sea than a
+pond-perch or a dace might be supposed to have, that are my
+aversion....  What can they want here?  What mean these scanty
+book-rooms--marine libraries as they entitle them--if the sea were, as
+they would have us believe, a book to read strange matter in?  What are
+their foolish concert-rooms, if they come, as they would fain be
+thought to do, to listen to the music of the waves?  All is false and
+hollow pretension.  They come because it is the fashion, and to spoil
+the nature of the place."
+
+======================================================================
+
+[Illustration: HASTINGS CASTLE]
+
+A fragment of the castle alone remains, grimly clinging to the edge of
+the cliff.
+
+(_See page 13_)
+
+======================================================================
+
+As we stroll about the streets of Hastings of to-day, it is difficult,
+nay, it is impossible, to conjure up the past, to people these hills
+and dales with the ghosts of days long since gone.  True, there is the
+Castle ruin, grimly clinging to the edge of the cliff; else there is
+little but aggressive modernity.  Such haven as there is now gives
+cause rather for ridicule than pride.  Few, standing at the Albert
+Memorial, could ever conceive that here in this Priory valley was at
+one time the great Port, protected on the east by the Castle hill, on
+the west by the White Rock, and flushed from the north by the Old Roar
+River.  Well might our old Sussex poet, James Howell, sing:
+
+  "Thou old sea-town, crouching beneath the rocks
+  Like a strong lion waiting for his prey!
+  Where are thy river, harbour, and the docks
+  In which the navy of Old England lay?
+  Why didst thou slumber, when in Pevensey Bay
+  The Normans' mighty host profaned our soil,
+  When thou, the Cinque-Port Queen, didst hold the key
+  Which locked the sea-gates of this freedom-isle?"
+
+
+Who, standing towards the south of the old town, where now are those
+black, bill-plastered structures famed as "the fishermen's huts", could
+call to mind a great wall with a gate and portcullis defending the town
+on the seaward side?  Yet a writer as late as 1828 could say: "Hastings
+was formerly defended, towards the sea, by a wall, which extended from
+the castle cliff across the hollow in which the town lies, to the east
+cliff....  A very small portion of this wall still exists, and may be
+traced near the Bourne's mouth, where there was a portcullis or gate; a
+considerable part of it is stated to have remained about forty years
+since." (William Herbert, the unacknowledged author of "_The History
+and Antiquities of the Town and Port of Hastings_", by W. G. Moss,
+draughtsman to H.R.H the Duke of Cambridge.)
+
+Now all has gone.  Only the town remains much as before.  The
+description penned in 1828 (_ibid._)--"The town consists principally of
+two streets, High Street, and All Saints Street, each about half a mile
+in length, running parallel nearly north and south, and separated by a
+rivulet, called the Bourne, which runs into Hastings in a narrow and
+inconsiderable stream, and empties itself into the sea.  These narrow
+streets are intersected by various smaller ones, or, more properly
+speaking, alleys, which contain the dwellings of the fishermen and
+other poor inhabitants of the place"--might well serve for the present
+day, save that the inconsiderable Bourne has now entirely disappeared.
+For the rest, a few old timbered houses, the two churches, All Saints
+and St. Clements, one on each slope, form, with the Castle, the sum
+total of the tangible reminders of ancient days.
+
+Nor has the town many definite associations as far as personalities go.
+True, Titus Oates was baptized here in 1619, when his father was rector
+of All Saints, and was himself curate in 1674; but the town can
+scarcely be proud of him.  One of the few old timbered houses in All
+Saints Street is pointed out as the home of the mother of Sir
+Cloudesley Shovell, but the only evidence in support of the claim is
+the following extract (generally discredited) from De la Prynne's
+diary: "I heard a gentleman say, who was in the ship with him six years
+ago, that as they were sailing over against the town of Hastings in
+Sussex, Sir Cloudesley called out: 'Pilot, put near; I have a little
+business on shore.'  They came to a little house--'Come,' says he, 'my
+business is here; I came on purpose to see the good woman of this
+house.'  Upon which they knocked at the door, and out came a poor old
+woman, upon which Sir Cloudesley kissed her, and then, falling down on
+his knees, begged her blessing, and called her mother."
+
+Coventry Patmore and Sir John Moore both lived in the town for a time.
+Otherwise the famous folk have for the most part been visitors.  The
+Duke of Wellington, then Major-General Wellesley, came hither with his
+bride in 1806, he being then in charge of some twelve thousand soldiers
+encamped near by.  In August, 1814, Byron stayed for a period.  "I have
+been renewing my acquaintance with my old friend Ocean," he wrote, "and
+I find his bosom as pleasant a pillow for one's head in the morning as
+his daughters of Paphos could be in the twilight.  I have been swimming
+and eating turbot and smuggling neat brandies and silk handkerchiefs,
+and walking on cliffs and tumbling down hills, and making the most of
+the _dolce far niente_ of the last fortnight."  Thomas Hood spent his
+honeymoon in the town about a decade later.  Garrick, while staying at
+East Cliffe House, planted in the garden a slip from Shakespeare's
+mulberry-tree.
+
+West of Hastings, and now merging into it, is the town of St. Leonards.
+It was founded in 1828 by a Mr. Burton, and took its name from the
+sixth-century hermit after whom the well-known forest and a number of
+churches round about were called.  Here, at St. Leonards, Thomas
+Campbell, the poet, lived, and his well-known "Address to the Sea",
+commencing: "Hail to thy face and odours, glorious Sea!" was inspired
+by the view from this point.  If ever the town needed a testimonial it
+could scarcely find better than the following passage from Theodore
+Hook: "From the meditation in which he was absorbed, Jack [Bragg] was
+roused upon his arrival at the splendid creation of modern art and
+industry, St. Leonards, which perhaps affords one of the most beautiful
+proofs of individual taste, judgment and perseverance that our nation
+exhibits.  Under the superintendence of Mr. Burton, a desert has become
+a thickly peopled town.  Buildings of an extensive nature and most
+elegant character rear their heads where but lately the barren cliffs
+presented their sandy fronts to the storm and wave, and rippling stream
+and hanging groves adorn the vale which a few years since was a sterile
+and shrubless ravine."  But perhaps the eulogy must not be taken too
+seriously.
+
+======================================================================
+
+[Illustration: HASTINGS AND ST. LEONARDS FROM THE CASTLE]
+
+West of Hastings, and now merging into it, is the town of St. Leonards,
+"the splendid creation of modern art and industry.  Buildings of an
+extensive nature and most elegant character rear their heads where but
+lately the barren cliffs presented their sandy fronts to the storm and
+wave."
+
+(_See page 16_)
+
+======================================================================
+
+Taken together, Hastings and St. Leonards form a typical modern
+watering-place,--with the quieter portion to the west, as is usual on
+the south coast.  Here, as an old guide book puts it, "every reasonable
+wish may be gratified, whether the object of the visitant be health or
+pleasure".  And certainly the place does offer a fine selection of
+attractions.  For your more strenuous visitor there are ample
+facilities for golf, tennis, swimming, &c.; for your ardent angler
+there is the unique combination of good deep-sea and river fishing; for
+your artist or photographer there are countless objects of beauty and
+historical interest.  For those who are content merely to idle away the
+time amid beautiful surroundings there are the magnificent public
+gardens,--Alexandra Park, Gensing Gardens, and St. Leonards Gardens.
+Few towns in England can boast so rich a possession as the park, with
+its lake, its woodland glades, its fine stretches of greenest turf, its
+indescribably beautiful flowers; and few municipalities realize so
+adequately the value of such a possession, if one may judge by the care
+bestowed upon it.
+
+======================================================================
+
+[Illustration: ST. LEONARDS GARDENS]
+
+Few towns in England can boast so rich a possession as the park, with
+its lake, woodland glades, and beautiful flowers.
+
+(_See page 17_)
+
+======================================================================
+
+However, the surroundings of Hastings must still be its greatest asset.
+To quote once more the grandiloquent old guide book,--"The vicinity of
+the town abounds with delightful rides and walks; the pleasantness and
+diversified character of which it is impossible not to admire; and
+these are not only of a description superior, perhaps, to what are to
+be found in almost any other part of the coast, but so numerous as to
+afford that change which prevents the satiety arising from repetition".
+
+Still farther west lies Bexhill, a typically modern seaside resort.
+Then follows a considerable stretch of meadow land, and at the other
+side the first of the romantic centres in this cradle of English
+history.
+
+
+
+
+PEVENSEY AND HURSTMONCEUX
+
+In all this storied region there is no spot so rich in memories as
+Pevensey (or Pemsey, as it is called locally).  Before such ancient
+settlements as Rye and Winchelsea were dreamed of, while yet Hastings
+was the merest collection of barbarian huts, Pevensey, or rather its
+Roman predecessor, Anderida, was a fortified place with all the ebb and
+flow of a flourishing life.
+
+Like Winchelsea, it has seen great changes--not quite so tragic
+perhaps, but no less momentous--and like Winchelsea, too, in its tide
+of fortune or disaster, it has been at the idle mercy of the fickle
+sea.  Where now--from the Channel inland for three or four
+miles--stretches a wide plain, centuries ago the sea went on its way,
+reaching inland as far as Hailsham, and leaving Pevensey and other
+"eys"--Horseye, Chilleye, Rickney--islanded in its midst.  In those
+days Pevensey served a double purpose: it was an island stronghold and
+a port--a gate to shut out and a gateway to welcome the alien mariner,
+according to his intentions and its own will.  Then the waters of the
+Channel receded, and the puissant fortress, robbed of its vital
+strength, sprawled helplessly at the mercy of any Philistine invader.
+
+It has had just this much of compensation: through its centuries of
+serviceable isolation it has seen real life as a castle--withstood
+sieges, beaten off marauding foes, taken sides in internal strife--and
+in that it has had the cry over the most of our Sussex fortresses.
+
+Originally a Celtic stronghold, it became, by reason of its unique
+situation, the Anderida of the Romans, a fortified enclosure following
+roughly the shape of the knoll on which it stood.  This was in the
+third century.  Two hundred years later, when the Romans had departed
+and left behind an enervated British race, the invading Saxons
+descended on the stronghold, put to death every Briton they could find,
+and destroyed all traces of the Roman settlement within the walls.  For
+centuries after this the enclosure was unoccupied; but the port
+continued its activities, for we read that in the years 1042 and 1049
+Earl Godwin and his sons, Sweyn and Harold, fell upon the place with
+sword and torch, and carried off many ships.
+
+But its real value as a castle site was only completely realized when,
+in September of the year 1066, William the Norman landed there with his
+hordes of mailed warriors.  He straightway gave the derelict to his
+half-brother, Robert of Mortain, who proceeded to erect a Norman
+fortress at the east end of the enclosure, using the strengthened Roman
+walls as an outer line of defence.  To this was added, two centuries
+later, a strong inner keep.
+
+Since the time of the Norman landing Pevensey seems to have sustained
+at least four earnest sieges.  The first took place in 1088, when Odo,
+Bishop of Bayeux, and supporter of Robert of Normandy, defended the
+castle against the Red King: the second in 1147, when the place was
+held for the Empress Matilda against King Stephen; and in both of these
+cases the defenders were compelled by famine to surrender.  The third
+important attack was that of 1264, following the battle of Lewes, when
+Simon de Montfort and the Barons sought in vain to reduce a garrison of
+obstinate Royalists.  It was during this particular siege that the
+larger gap in the original Roman wall was initiated.  The fourth and
+last storming happened during the Wars of the Roses, when Lady Pelham,
+a stanch supporter of the Lancastrian cause, successfully held out
+against a force of local followers of Richard of York.
+
+After that the glory of the place departed, and it became a State
+prison, wherein were incarcerated such illustrious personages as
+Edward, Duke of York; James the First of Scotland; and Queen Joan of
+Navarre, wife of Henry the Fourth.  From the days of the seventh Henry
+onwards it gradually fell into decay; and its present dilapidated
+condition is due not so much to the violence of the sieges as to the
+habit of the local gentry of using the remains as a handy quarry for
+house-building purposes.  For the presence of any remains at all our
+thanks are due to that much-reviled thing the Spanish Armada.  In the
+year previous to the sailing of the fleet, orders were given for the
+complete restoration or total demolition of the castle.  Happily, in
+the general confusion of the time, the instructions seem to have been
+forgotten.  Pevensey now is one of the most picturesque spots in the
+south of England.  The knoll on which it stands is sufficiently high to
+give the castle a dignified appearance, as it rises up out of the
+encompassing marshes; and yet there is none of that grim, forbidding
+aspect generally so noticeable about castles perched on an eminence.
+Rather is there about these ivy-mantled walls an atmosphere of sunlit
+serenity quite out of keeping with the story of the place.  Around the
+little hill still stretch those amazing ancient Roman walls, with but
+two considerable breaches.  These walls for the most part fail to get
+the attention they deserve.  Visitors enter the little western gate and
+pass across the meadow--once the outer ward--and so come to the
+mediaeval castle; but the outer walls are nearly a thousand years older
+and of transcendent interest.  What magnificent masons those old Romans
+were!  And what a secret they must have possessed for the making of
+mortar and cement!  In several places here the cement has endured
+through all these hundreds of years, while even the outer stones have
+crumbled away.  At other points, too, the actual marks of the masons'
+tools are visible in the ancient mortar.
+
+======================================================================
+
+[Illustration: PEVENSEY CASTLE FROM THE MEADOWS]
+
+Through centuries of serviceable isolation it has seen real life as a
+castle--withstood sieges, beaten off marauding foes, and taken sides in
+internal strife.
+
+(_See page 23_)
+
+======================================================================
+
+At the eastern end of the enclosure is the castle itself, with a
+reed-grown moat on the northern and western sides.  Most of this ruin
+dates back only to the time of Edward the First, for the original
+Norman fabric suffered too many sieges to endure in any completeness.
+One of the great towers flanking the main gateway still stands, but the
+other, like the drawbridge, has long since disappeared; three others
+project from the wall at various intervals.  Inside, very little
+remains.  Fragmentary ruins reveal the original site of the keep: the
+extent of the chapel may be traced on the sward.  But, for all the
+scarcity of definite relics, the place is one to linger in and conjure
+up the past, when these grass-grown spaces were instinct with a
+hurrying life, when the meadows where now the cattle browse were filled
+with anxious faces and beating hearts.
+
+Pevensey can own to one famous son at least, Andrew Borde, a man of
+many parts.  Carthusian monk, physician to Henry the Eighth,
+litterateur, poor Borde died a prisoner in the Fleet Prison in 1549.
+He was one of those unfortunates who seem never to do or say the right
+thing at the right time.  Born at the vicarage early in the sixteenth
+century, he developed a turn for jesting, and it proved his undoing,
+for bishops and kings had not his lively wit, and failed lamentably to
+appreciate what was at once his gift and his failing.  To his ready pen
+have been ascribed the immortal epic "Tom Thumb", and the oft-told
+"Merry Tales of the Wise Men of Gotham"--the latter collected and put
+into literary form from the oral traditions of the country-side.
+
+Just up under the eastern wall of the castle is the so-called Mint
+House, where Borde is reputed to have spent many of his days.  It was
+an interesting old place, with its panelled walls and numerous
+passages; but it has now been rendered quite impossible by reason of
+its conversion into a glorified old curiosity shop with a heterogeneous
+collection of antiques.  Other delightful houses there are, too, in
+this double village of Pevensey and Westham, straggling away at either
+side of the castle--low, picturesque timbered dwellings, at once the
+delight and despair of would-be artists.  At Westham is a noble old
+church, the first built by the Conqueror, with remnants of the original
+Norman fabric still serving their purpose.
+
+Striking east from the castle, the way out to Hurstmonceux lies down
+through the village street, with the sea away to the right and the
+marsh to the left.  All along the coast here stand the Martello towers,
+monuments to the hysteria of a former day.  Poor Cobbett, in his _Rural
+Rides_, could scarce find words bitter enough for these works.  "To
+think that I should be destined to behold these monuments of the wisdom
+of Pitt and Dundas and Perceval!  Good G--!  Here they are, piles of
+brick in a circular form about three hundred feet (guess) circumference
+at the base, about forty feet high, and about one hundred feet
+circumference at the top....  Cannons were to be fired from the top of
+these things, in order to defend the country against the French
+Jacobins!  I think I could have counted along here upwards of thirty of
+these ridiculous things, which, I dare say, cost five, perhaps ten,
+thousand pounds each: and one of which was, I am told, _sold_ on the
+coast of Sussex, the other day, for two hundred pounds...."  Some have
+now been dismantled, having been rendered useless or dangerous by the
+encroachments of the sea.  Here and there is to be found one providing
+habitation for a fisherman or a coastguard, or let out for the purpose
+of a summer residence to some more than usually enterprising
+holiday-maker.
+
+As soon as the water of Pevensey Haven is crossed, the way to
+Hurstmonceux turns sharply to the north; and thence onward the road is
+a perfectly flat one, winding in and out across the levels with seeming
+aimlessness.  Ahead, visible nearly all the way, the castle nestles
+among the low hills that break sharply away from the flats, outposts of
+the uplands of that same sandstone Forest Ridge which presses on
+eastwards to form the cliffs beyond Hastings.  On either side, away to
+the distant hills, stretch the greenest of meadows, intersected by
+innumerable watercourses, with but a few stunted thorns and an
+occasional tuft of rushes to break the trackless level.  Here the
+soft-eyed Sussex beasts browse knee-deep in luxuriant pasturage.  It is
+a lonely spot, a place of drowsy solitude, where the plaintive call of
+the plover seems the most natural melody.  Yet, on a spring morning,
+when great white clouds ride across the clear blue sky, when the thorn
+is in bloom, and every ditch is brocaded with the gold of myriad
+kingcups, then, indeed, it is a place of indescribable sweetness.
+
+Built at the time of the "last of the barons", Hurstmonceux marked the
+transition in domestic architecture from the heavily-defended fortress
+to the comfortable and luxurious manor-house.  As early as the reign of
+Edward the Third attempts had been made to combine the strength of
+massive masonry with the convenience of more sumptuous apartments, such
+castles as Raglan and Warwick leading the way.  We have only to stroll
+round the present remains to find ample evidence of this double
+service.  The great arched gateway and battlemented walls, the
+machicolated octagonal towers, the moat and drawbridge, the loopholes
+for cross-bows, the oeillets for the matchlock guns,--all witness to
+the one purpose; while the size and number of the windows in the
+dwelling-rooms quite well testify to the other.
+
+In these days the ruined castle is a place of great beauty.  Time has
+dealt less hardly with it than with some.  The colour of the huge
+red-brick front has been softened down by wind and rain to a restful
+mellow tint in full harmony with the sombre green of the overhanging
+masses of ivy; and, though the broken walls with their towers and
+half-towers still have a martial air, they have lost much of their
+severity of outline.
+
+In the full flush of its being it was a magnificent structure.  Just
+inside the great gateway there was a courtyard, generally known as the
+"Green Court", surrounded by the cloisters.  Just beyond this stood the
+great dining-hall, a spacious chamber, 54 feet long and 28 wide, with
+massive timbered roof and tiled floor; and, opening from it, the Pantry
+Court, from which again a paved passage led to the garden.  The east
+side of the castle included the principal dwelling-apartments,--the
+enormous drawing-room, where Grinling Gibbons's vine, a masterpiece of
+carving, spread its magnificence over the walls and ceiling; the
+chapel, extending up through the two stories; and, on the upper floor,
+the "Ladies' Bower" with its peculiar oriel window--a room wherein,
+tradition says, one of the fair daughters of Hurstmonceux was starved
+to death in her twenty-first year.  On the west were the domestic
+apartments, among them the great kitchen and bakehouse, with an oven in
+which, it was declared, a coach and horses might easily turn.  On the
+upper floor, lighted by the open space of the Green Court, were the
+Bethlehem chambers, otherwise the guest-rooms, and the Green Gallery, a
+room filled with pictures and hung with green cloth.  One old writer
+speaks of these upper rooms as "sufficient to lodge a garrison"; and
+adequate provision would seem to have been necessary, for in its heyday
+Hurstmonceux had many and illustrious visitors.  Everything seems to
+have been done on such a lavish scale that we are fully prepared for
+such interesting details as the record that at the marriage of Grace
+Naylor "butts of beer were left standing at the park gates for the
+refreshment of chance passers-by"; also that twenty old female
+retainers were kept constantly employed at the weeding and tidying of
+the Green and other courtyards.
+
+For long it was a mere skeleton, at the mercy of nature and man.  As
+late as 1752 Horace Walpole could write of it in a letter to his friend
+Richard Bentley: "It was built in the reign of Henry VI, and is as
+perfect as the first day.  It does not seem to have ever been quite
+finished, or at least that age was not arrived at the luxury of
+whitewash, for almost all the walls are in their native brick-hood."
+And yet, despite Mr. Walpole's assertions as to its continued
+perfectness, so soon after this as 1777 the castle was dismantled.  The
+truth is: if the castle has escaped the general fate of this region and
+avoided the scourge of the invader, it has nevertheless suffered much
+at the hands of its friends.  In the year mentioned the owner was a
+Mrs. Henrietta Hare, ancestor of the author of _Memorials of a Quiet
+Life_, a volume which deals very faithfully with this ancient fabric.
+This lady, desiring to use the materials for the construction of a new
+mansion on a higher site, called in the arch-vandal Wyatt, and he (to
+quote Augustus Hare's _Memorials_) "declared that the castle was in a
+hopeless state of dilapidation, though another authority had just
+affirmed that in all material points its condition was as good as on
+the day on which it was built....  The castle was unroofed....  A great
+sale was held in the park, whither the London brokers came in troops,
+and lived in an encampment of tents during the six weeks which the sale
+lasted.  Almost everything of value was then dispersed.  Mrs. Hare and
+her husband afterwards resided at Hurstmonceux Place, the new house
+which Wyatt was commissioned to build, and lived there in such
+extravagance that they always spent a thousand a year more than their
+income, large as it was, and annually sold a farm from the property to
+make up the deficiency.  It was a proverb in the neighbourhood at that
+time that 'people might hunt either Hares or foxes'."
+
+And thus it stood, a ruined shell, until comparatively recent years.
+The many curious staircases built in the thicknesses of the walls, the
+secret underground passages, and the general isolation on the edge of
+the marsh, all contrived to render the ruin an ideal rendezvous for
+smugglers and a suitable depository for their stores of contraband.
+
+Now, fortunately, the castle is in the hands of one who, appreciating
+such a possession, is taking steps to prevent any further decay, and
+with a loving care and a sense of fitness is proceeding with the
+delicate task of necessary restoration.
+
+
+
+
+BATTLE ABBEY
+
+To Battle is the excursion of paramount interest from the popular point
+of view.  The association with one of the most momentous events in the
+history of the land, the peculiar entertainment of standing on the
+actual ground where the battle took place and the "last of the English"
+fell, the intrinsic pleasure in the inspection of a ruin at once rich
+in memories and comely in setting,--all contrive to make it the
+pilgrimage into the country around.  Other ruins may surpass it in
+degree of preservation, in individual reminiscence, in charm of
+situation, but none, not even Pevensey, can vie with the Abbey in
+strength of appeal.
+
+It was erected on the actual place of the contest.  On the eve of the
+battle, when the rival forces were assembled and ready for the shock of
+arms, William, in a sudden fit of piety--or nervousness--made a solemn
+vow that, should victory be his, he would found a mighty church, in
+token of his thankfulness for the Divine intervention.  And when it was
+all over, and the English had fallen, he quickly made good his promise.
+Practical men came to him urging the unsuitable nature of the site,
+high up on the hill-side away from all water.  Rather would they build
+down there in the hollow, where the springs ever gushed forth freely.
+But not so William: the church should rise on the field of blood, and
+the high altar should mark the spot where his adversary had fallen.
+And for the matter of water: if that were lacking, well, wine should be
+more plentiful in the new Abbey than water in other religious houses.
+Thus came the venerable Abbey of St. Martin into existence.
+
+The story of the battle is perhaps the most fascinating in all our
+catalogue of worthy fights.  When William landed on these shores Harold
+was at York, recuperating after the superhuman efforts which culminated
+in the battle of Stamford Bridge, where he entirely defeated an
+invading force under Harold Haardrada and his own brother, Tostig.  He
+had marched two hundred miles or more to defeat one foe, and it was now
+necessary for him to carry out a still greater expedition to engage a
+second.  He halted several days in the capital while the process of
+collecting troops from the midlands and the south went on.  At last, on
+October the twelfth, he moved on to meet William.  With him he took but
+a small army.  Had he waited just a short time longer (the delay would
+not have mattered, for William had no intention of leaving the coast)
+he could have gathered a force sufficiently large to overwhelm the
+invaders; but he made the common mistake of holding the enemy too
+cheaply.  A series of forced marches commenced in the hopes of catching
+William unawares came to nought, owing to the vigilance of the Duke's
+marauding bands.  On the night of the thirteenth he arrived at the
+fatal hill, and pitched his camp on the site of the present town of
+Battle.
+
+======================================================================
+
+[Illustration: THE GATEWAY, BATTLE ABBEY]
+
+The Abbey was erected on the field of the Battle of Hastings.  The
+gateway was added in 1338 to the work begun by William the Conqueror.
+
+(_See page 36_)
+
+======================================================================
+
+Harold apparently knew this part of Sussex quite well, being the lord
+of several manors round about; and so his well-chosen ground does not
+surprise us.  A long spur of upland here thrusts out boldly from the
+main mass of wooded hill-side, and commands a view over a wide stretch
+of rolling ground away to the sea.  On a crest of this spur he ranged
+his army, with the mailed warriors in front forming a continuous
+shield-wall.
+
+The descriptions of the night before the battle--all from Norman
+sources, by the way--make vastly interesting reading.  Albeit they vary
+in certain minor matters, they are in one accord concerning the
+characters of the rival armies--the drunken English and the pious
+Normans.  The former spent the night in one big carousal--dancing,
+singing, drinking immense quantities of liquor; the latter devoted
+their time to prayers and the confession of their sins.  And yet,
+strange to say, the English seem to have been quite fit in the morning,
+for they put up a remarkably good fight.  They held their own through
+the best part of the day, and in the end were defeated only by their
+own eagerness.
+
+Hour after hour the Normans surged up the hill, assailing the English
+position, and again and again were they driven back by the terrible
+battle-axes of their opponents.  So well was Harold's position chosen
+that they could make little impression; and it is fair to hazard that
+in the end they would have met with defeat, had not some of the
+less-disciplined troops forsaken their advantage and impetuously
+pursued the panic-stricken enemy into the valley below.  Here the
+conditions were different, and the sword was more than a match for the
+battle-axe and javelin, with the consequence that the rash English were
+badly cut up.  William noticed this, and determined to try the
+"strategic retreat" on a larger scale.  Accordingly one wing--the
+western--was ordered to turn tail and retire as though in disorder.
+This they did.  The English, lured on by their wily foes, readily gave
+up their more favourable position, and then, as before, the French
+turned and engaged them, while a wedge of cavalry inserted itself and
+harassed them in the rear.  This descending movement had left open a
+considerable portion of the English line, and on this William
+concentrated the pick of his forces.  But still the English fought on
+stubbornly.  In one place they also saw the advantage of the feigned
+flight, and induced the French cavalry to charge into an unsuspected
+ravine, whence not a man escaped.
+
+As the shades of evening fell no one might say where the advantage lay:
+the English shield-wall was broken in places, but it still presented a
+formidable line; the French still pressed on eagerly.  Then to Duke
+William came the great inspiration which turned the day, and won for
+him the battle and the crown.  So far his archers had done little to
+justify their presence on the field.  Now William saw that if they were
+ordered to shoot their arrows high into the air these would descend
+with terrific force upon the heads of the foe, and work great
+execution.  The command was carried out, and one of the first to fall
+was the English king himself, his right eye pierced by a shaft.
+
+With Harold fell the English fortunes.  His soldiers struggled on
+desperately till night closed down, but their valour was in vain, and
+after a day's continuous fighting the Normans were left the victors of
+the field.
+
+Building operations were duly commenced, and proceeded apace.  The
+growing Abbey was richly endowed, and its Superior granted numerous and
+great privileges.  Not, however, till William had been dead some seven
+years was it finished.  Then for several centuries it enjoyed a
+flourishing existence, extending its scope and increasing its wealth.
+The great gateway was added in 1338, and was the work of Abbot Retlyng.
+
+The income of the Abbey was enormous, and the wanton generosity of the
+brothers made Battle a happy hunting-ground for the pilgrims and
+vagabonds and ne'er-do-wells in the south-east of England.  But its
+long years of prosperity proved its undoing, for slothful ease gave way
+to greater evils.  The great place decayed in every sense, and when, in
+1538, Henry's commissioners appeared at its gate, it was in a fit
+condition to be suppressed.  Layton, the chief commissioner, says of
+it: "So beggarly a house I never see, nor so filthy stuff.  I will no
+20s. for all the hangings in this house, as the bearer can tell you....
+So many evil I never see, the stuff is like the persons"; and he
+further speaks of the inmates as "the worst that ever I see in all
+other places, whereat I see specially the blake sort of dyvellyshe
+monks".
+
+As we pass through the magnificent gateway, worthy indeed to guard the
+treasure within, our pleasure increases at every step, for though the
+ruins are but few and fragmentary they are enshrined in that most
+glorious of settings, a beautiful garden.  The great church itself has
+long since disappeared, for Sir Anthony Browne, to whom the place was
+given after the visit of the vandal commissioners, saw nothing of worth
+in it.  Just a fragment of the nave wall is pointed out in the woodyard
+at the back of the modern mansion, and a piece of the cloister arcading
+on the east side.  But we can get a very good idea of its great size
+from the disposition of the ruins.  The spot to which we turn with
+eagerness is the site of the high altar, the death-place of Harold.  It
+is a spot of beauty now, with its moss-grown stones, its ferns and
+greenery; and we would fain linger awhile to think on all the Norman
+invasion brought, all its woes and its brightnesses; but the guide is
+inexorable: we must pass on with the flock of tourists to view the only
+considerable remain, the Early English hall, generally known as the
+Refectory.  The walls of this stand roofless to the sky, with a lawn in
+place of a floor.  Below there are three fine vaulted chambers--one,
+the Scriptorium, with a good geometrical window and a vaulted roof
+supported by graceful pillars.
+
+But after all we come away with no very clear idea of the place; and
+perhaps it is as well.  Instead, we have a vague, an impressionist
+picture of flowers and ruins, grey stones mantled with gorgeous
+blossoms; and over all a brooding serenity.
+
+The pedestrian's route, by which we may either come to Battle or
+return, passes through Hollington and Crowhurst.  At the latter place
+is one of the most famous yews in the country; at the former is the
+notorious "Church in the Wood".  Just why this little church should
+ever have attained to its present eminence as a goal of pilgrimage we
+fail utterly to comprehend.  There is nothing remarkable about the
+edifice itself, either in the way of structure or ornaments; the
+graveyard is too crowded with the hideous monuments of parvenu
+strangers to be interesting; the approach is little more than
+commonplace.  Yet for all that, thousands come and go through the
+summer months, and on fine Sundays the little sanctuary is packed to
+the door, doubtless to the entire satisfaction of the clergy.  Charles
+Lamb discovered the place many years ago, when the surroundings were
+rather more favourable; and we should certainly give thanks, for the
+visit gave rise to an inimitable passage: "It is a very Protestant
+Loretto, and seems dropt by some angel for the use of the hermit, who
+was at once parishioner and a whole parish....  It is built to the text
+of 'two or three are assembled in my name'.  It reminds me of the grain
+of mustard seed.  If the glebe land is proportionate, it may yield two
+potatoes.  Tithes out of it could be no more split than a hair.  Its
+first fruits must be its last, for 'twould never produce a couple.  It
+is truly the strait and narrow way, and few there be--of London
+visitants--that find it....  It is secure from earthquakes, not more
+from sanctity than size, for 'twould feel a mountain thrown upon it no
+more than a taper-worm would.  Go and see, but not without your
+spectacles."
+
+
+
+
+ECCLESBOURNE AND FAIRLIGHT
+
+East of the old town is a stretch of cliffs several miles long, made
+up, like the Forest Ridge, of Lower Cretaceous rocks.  Several little
+wooded valleys extend from the high lands right down to the sea, and
+two of these have attained to a desirable celebrity under the names of
+Ecclesbourne and Fairlight Glens.
+
+Many folk, visiting these two spots in August, go away with a feeling
+of utter disappointment, for the grass is rusty and the place strewn
+with the indescribable litter of a myriad picnic-parties.  But in the
+spring of the year, when the little watercourse at the bottom is at its
+fullest, when there are countless primroses beneath the fine old trees,
+when everything is green down to the water's edge, then do these glens
+deserve their reputations.
+
+======================================================================
+
+[Illustration: FAIRLIGHT GLEN]
+
+In the spring of the year, when the little watercourse is at its
+fullest, there are countless primroses beneath the fine old trees, and
+everything is green down to the water's edge.
+
+(_See page 39_)
+
+======================================================================
+
+In Fairlight there are two famous spots--the Dripping Well and the
+Lovers' Seat.  The well, situated at the northern end of the glen,
+shows a decided tendency to follow the custom of most local waters, but
+we can nevertheless get some idea of what a pretty little spot it must
+have been at its best.  The Lovers' Seat is a little to the east, high
+up on the face of a steep, shrub-grown cliff.  A large rock overhangs
+at the top, and beneath is a tiny platform, slowly disappearing.  It is
+a fine place, especially on an early summer morning, when the air is
+athrob with the tumultuous melody of the birds in the glen below, and
+the sea birds wheel round the aerie--a place well fitted to stir even
+Charles Lamb to praise: "Let me hear that you have clambered up to
+Lovers' Seat; it is as fine in that neighbourhood as Juan Fernandez, as
+lonely too, when the fishing-boats are not out; I have sat for hours
+staring upon a shipless sea.  The salt sea is never so grand as when it
+is left to itself."  Of course it has a story: what similar romantic
+spot has not?  Doubt has been cast on the veracity; but such pretty
+tales certainly _ought_ to be true.
+
+East of the glen lies Cliff End, where the brown sandstone cliffs dip
+down sharply once more to the level marshlands.  The path thither
+meanders along the top of the cliffs, now approaching perilously near
+the edge to give a glimpse of some sweet little hanging dell with trees
+right down to the waves, now wandering inland a little through acres of
+bee-thronged gorse and heather.  It is such a spot as Richard Jefferies
+loved: "All warmly lit with sunshine, deep under liquid sunshine like
+sands under the liquid sea, no harshness of man-made sound to break the
+isolation amid nature".
+
+Once at Cliff End we marvel, and yet offer up fervent thanks that it is
+not one of the "show places" of the district.  The low rolling hills,
+having constituted the coast-line for half a dozen miles, at this point
+break away inland to form a delightful country-side.  By so doing they
+enclose what was formerly a great lagoon or inland sea, having long
+arms, or fiords, running up into the different river-valleys of Brede,
+Tillingham, and Rother.  Now the sea has gone, and there, in its place,
+stretch away acres upon acres of marshland, marked out like a piece of
+old patchwork by the countless watercourses--a place of stressless
+labour and contentment.
+
+As we stand at this place and gaze out eastwards upon those broad acres
+of sun-washed, wind-swept meadow-land, where now the cattle and sheep
+graze peacefully and the shepherd slumbers at his post, it is difficult
+to realize that here the fishermen once dropped their nets, and the
+ships of war rode majestically at anchor--ready at any moment to
+venture forth against marauding foes.  Yet Winchelsea, which stands out
+in the distance--seeming one day miles away and another barely a
+stone's throw--and Rye, a tiny town, perched on its little hill some
+three miles farther on, were each ports of the first
+magnitude--veritable cradles of the navy and the Empire.
+
+From the Cliff End here we have a choice of two routes: either we can
+proceed by road to Icklesham, a place well worth a visit for the sake
+of its interesting old church, and then on to Winchelsea; or, better
+still, we can tramp the few miles beside the old military canal, which
+serves to link up that town with the sea.  This latter is certainly a
+delightful walk, and well worth the fatigue of an extended effort.  As
+we drop down the slope, we note, on the lower ridges of the hills,
+Pett, the insignificant village which has given its name to the Level,
+or tongue of "polder", stretching away to Rye, and extending eastwards
+into that greater flat, the Romney Marsh; and, farther on, Guestling.
+Not hastily, however, must Guestling be passed by, for though the
+village is commonplace enough to the eye, the name is charged with
+ancient memories.  Originally the "Guestling" was a sort of conference
+between the Ports and distant fishing colonies such as Yarmouth; but
+gradually it developed into a local Parliament held to settle disputes
+among the folks of the rival fisher towns as to questions of rights and
+privileges.  It met in the church itself, and possessed a Speaker and
+something of the paraphernalia of full judicial power.  Here is what
+the good old Jeake says about it in his ancient _History of the Cinque
+Ports_: "By the same name of _Guestling_, is also a Court called, that
+consisteth but of _part_ of the _Ports_ and _two Towns_, as suppose
+Hastings, Winchelsea, and Rye, raised upon request of one of them;
+where by consent, and as by brotherly invitation, they appear to agree
+on something necessary to their respective Towns."
+
+The old canal, like the Martello towers, roused the scorn of Cobbett:
+"Here is a canal _to keep out the French_; for these armies who had so
+often crossed the Rhine, and the Danube, were to be kept back by a
+canal, made by Pitt, thirty feet wide at the most".  But despite
+Cobbett's words it was no mean feat of military engineering for those
+days, as the following particulars, culled from Horsfield, the old
+county historian, will show: "The Military Canal, which was cut, during
+the late war with France, as a protection to the lowlands in the
+eastern part of this county and the adjoining portion of the county of
+Kent, by impeding the progress of an enemy, in the event of a landing
+on this shore, commences at Cliffe End, in the parish of Pett, and
+following the course of the rising ground, which skirts the extensive
+flat forming Walland and Romney Marsh, crosses the Roman Road near
+Hythe, and extends, in nearly a straight direction, along the coast to
+its termination at Shorne Cliffe, in Kent; a distance of about
+twenty-three miles.  Its breadth is about twenty yards, and its depth
+three; with a raised bank or redan on the northern side to shelter the
+soldiery, and enable them to oppose the foe with greater advantage."
+Now everything is changed; this monument of warlike stupidity has
+become a haunt of peace.  Thus has Time effected another of its little
+travesties.
+
+Following the reed-grown, bird-haunted waterway, we skirt the peninsula
+on which the town is perched, and come finally to the foot of the road
+which winds diagonally up to the Strand Gate.  Thus is the town entered
+by its most beautiful approach.
+
+
+
+
+WINCHELSEA
+
+Every spot in this delectable corner of England--Pevensey,
+Hurstmonceux, Hastings itself, Bodiam, Rye--is redolent of the triumph
+of change; but Winchelsea stands before us a perfect memorial to the
+futility of man's efforts against Nature, a tangible reminder of the
+irony of Time.
+
+This ancient town, perched, like Rye, on a solitary hillock projecting
+into the midst of a vast plain, is, despite its years and its ruins,
+really a _new_ Winchelsea.  The old town--the city proper--a prosperous
+place of seven hundred householders and fifty odd inns, lies beneath
+the ever-changing sea, some two miles (some say, five) south-east of
+the present site.  Serious trouble began in 1250 with a great tempest,
+concerning which Holinshed writes: "On the first day of October (1250)
+the moon, upon her change, appearing exceeding red and swelled, began
+to show tokens of the great tempest of wind that followed, which was so
+huge and mightie, both by land and sea, that the like had not been
+lightlie knowne, and seldome, or rather never heard of by men then
+alive.  The sea forced contrarie to his natural course, flowed twice
+without ebbing, yielding such a rooring that the same was heard (not
+without great woonder) a farre distance from the shore....  At
+Winchelsey, besides other hurt that was doone in bridges, milles,
+breakes, and banks, there were 300 houses and some churches drowned
+with the high rising of the watercourse."  Not even then did the people
+give in; but from 1250 to 1287 Neptune and other sovereign powers
+descended mightily on the poor old town, and its tragedy was completed
+when, during an utterly disastrous tempest, the whole district between
+Pett and Hythe was inundated.
+
+At this time Edward the First was Warden of the Cinque Ports, and the
+planning of the new town seems to have been to him and his associates a
+simple and congenial task.  The present triangular plateau was chosen,
+falling precipitously on three sides, with its narrow end towards
+Hastings; and the new town was projected and begun on truly magnificent
+lines.  Edward seems to have been quite a pioneer in the modern science
+of town-planning, for Winchelsea, like several other towns set out by
+him, was given an oblong shape, and this was divided up into
+thirty-nine or forty squares by means of wide streets intersecting at
+right angles.
+
+On the north the town stood upon a cliff overhanging the Brede fiord;
+on the east the land fell away precipitously to the sea itself.  At the
+north-east and north-west corners of the plateau, roads were made down
+to the sea, with quays at the bottom of each, and great gates, the
+Strand and Ferry, at the top.  At the land end yet another gate was
+built, the New, and the extremity protected by a moat and stone walls.
+A castle was built, and full provision made for the resumption of the
+commerce of the port.
+
+======================================================================
+
+[Illustration: THE STRAND GATE, WINCHELSEA]
+
+Winchelsea stands upon a plateau, at the north-east and north-west
+corners of which roads were made down to the sea, with quays at the
+bottom of each, and great gates, the Strand and Ferry, at the top.
+
+(_See page 49_)
+
+======================================================================
+
+The various religious houses were reproduced as in the dead town, and
+ere long the lusty life of the old place began again in earnest.  The
+town became self-supporting with its shipbuilding and fishing, and its
+galaxy of representative craftsmen, and offered a splendid channel for
+trade to and from the mainland.  Being a serviceable defensive port, it
+rehabilitated itself as a rendezvous for the navy, and combined with
+that importance the added attraction of being the best base on the
+coast for pirates.  So well was the latter occupation organized that we
+read of one of the mayors of the town--one Robert de Battayle--being
+caught red-handed and summarily punished for acts of piracy.
+
+And what remains?  Very little.  At the northern end certain of the
+spacious streets are inhabited but generally grass-grown.  These show
+the original divisions and dimensions; but southwards and westwards the
+majestic squares have become merely green fields, until at last the
+boundaries have been lost altogether.  Ancient words of doom ring in
+our ears as we survey the scene: "Thorns shall come up in her palaces,
+nettles and brambles in the fortresses thereof....  They shall be left
+altogether unto the fowls of the mountains and to the beasts of the
+earth; and the fowls shall summer upon them, and all the beasts of the
+earth shall winter upon them."
+
+The church, or rather a certain portion of it, still stands, with a
+generous margin of green surrounding it, and within its walls the fine
+canopied tomb of Gervase Alard, admiral of the Cinque Ports.  A short
+distance down the road, south-east of the church, is the mansion known
+as "The Friars": in its beautiful grounds stands practically all that
+remains of the religious houses--the ivy-grown ruin of the chapel of
+the Franciscan Monastery.  With this mansion and with the brothers
+Weston, the rogues who dwelt in it, all lovers of Thackeray's _Denis
+Duval_ will doubtless be familiar.  The gates of the town still frown
+down on the approaching roads; but wall, castle, quays, all are gone,
+and the place is now, to use Wesley's words, "that poor skeleton of
+ancient Winchelsea".
+
+======================================================================
+
+[Illustration: WINCHELSEA CHURCH]
+
+The church, or a certain portion of it, still stands, with a generous
+margin of green surrounding it, and within its walls the fine canopied
+tomb of Gervase Alard, Admiral of the Cinque Ports.
+
+(_See page 48_)
+
+======================================================================
+
+And small wonder too, for every hand has been against it.  At the time
+of its building the Black Death made its appearance, destroying
+countless inhabitants and dispersing the craftsmen.  The town was
+sacked by the French in 1359, when three thousand entered with sword
+and torch.  Again, in 1378, the same catastrophe occurred.  In 1449
+they visited once more, but did little damage.  For by this time
+another enemy had set to work--the worst enemy of all.  The sea, which
+in its inconstancy had made the new Winchelsea at the expense of the
+old, was calmly receding and leaving the Antient Town high and dry,
+with a perpetually increasing bank of shingle in between.
+
+Now, as we stand at the Strand Gate, and watch the sea away to the
+south, with its ever-changing pageant of azure and amethyst, and as we
+turn about and enter through the old gate to walk the grass-grown
+streets, we laugh at Neptune's jest; but there is something tragic in
+the laughter.
+
+
+
+
+RYE
+
+Rye, as it stands, is the completest place in England.  A little
+conical hill rises abruptly out of the encompassing marshes, and all
+around that little hill, wherever it can gain secure hold, clings the
+town.  The tall houses rest tier upon tier, as if standing on tiptoe to
+get a better view of the approaching enemy; and the cobble-paved
+streets wind in and about, so that every available inch of space may be
+utilized for house or hanging garden.  Crowning it all rises the
+ancient church with its high red roofs and tower.
+
+======================================================================
+
+[Illustration: RYE]
+
+A conical hill rises abruptly out of the encompassing marshes, and all
+around that little hill, wherever it can gain secure hold, clings the
+town.
+
+(_See page 50_)
+
+======================================================================
+
+Probably the best approach is from Camber.  We can tramp the three long
+dusty miles of the military road from Winchelsea, catching just a
+glimpse of the massive, low-lying structure of Camber Castle on the
+other side of the stream; or else we can take the road to the right,
+and, sweeping seawards, come round to the castle itself, pausing a
+while to wander about these walls which have stood the rough usage of
+the south-westerly gale so well since the time of the eighth Henry.
+Leaving Camber, the way across to Rye is hazardous.  So many waterways
+intersect the shingly meadows that by the time we come out at the right
+place an extraordinarily tortuous path has been followed.
+
+The history of Rye is much akin to that of the sister town, a story of
+one long succession of struggles against the two enemies, the sea and
+the French.  Although the place was a natural stronghold by reason of
+its unique formation, yet, after a time, the necessity for artificial
+works was felt, and in the twelfth century a small tower, afterwards
+known as the Ypres, was constructed near the top of the southward
+cliffs, a square structure of two stories with a circular turret at
+each angle.  A few years afterwards, in the reign of Richard the First,
+licence was granted for the building of a town wall; and still later,
+in the reign of Edward the Third, the fortifications were completed by
+the building of a gateway with portcullis at the north-east end of the
+town.
+
+These fortifications were rendered necessary by the _inning_ of the
+shallows which separated Rye from the mainland, the sea having set to
+work, with the true ironic touch, depositing shingle where salt water
+was essential, and irrupting where it was most unwelcome.  And, sure
+enough, as the one enemy did its worst, filling in the harbour and
+making access to the little hill more easy, so the other enemy took
+advantage of the facilities offered, and the raids of the French
+gradually became more frequent and more severe.  In the fourteenth
+century things were parlous for the island town.  When it was not the
+turn of Winchelsea, Rye suffered, and vice versa.  They set upon the
+town in 1337 with no great success, but in 1360 they spoiled both
+Hastings and Rye.  Immediately after the death of Edward they came
+again, and "within five hours brought it wholly into ashes, with the
+church that was there of a wonderful beauty, conveying away four of the
+richest of the towne and slaying sixty-six; left not above eight in the
+towne.  Forty-two hogsheads of wine they carried thence to the ships
+with the rest of their booty, and left the towne desolate."
+
+In 1378 the men of the Cinque Ports took some sort of revenge,
+according to the following interesting account in Fuller's _Worthies of
+England_: "May never French land on this shore, to the losse of the
+English!  But if so sad an accident should happen, send them our
+Sussexians no worse success than their ancestors of Rye and Winchelsey
+had, 1378, in the reign of Richard the Second, when they embarked for
+Normandy: for in the night they entered a town called Peter's Port,
+took all such prisoners who were able to pay ransome, and safely
+returned home without losse, and with much rich spoil; and amongst the
+rest they took out of the steeple the bells, and brought them into
+England, bells which the French had taken formerly from these towns,
+and which did afterwards ring the more merrily, restored to their
+proper place, with addition of much wealth to pay for the cost of their
+recovery."  But their triumph was short-lived, for in 1380 the place
+was again burned, despite the wall.  Comparative quiet then reigned
+till 1448, when the last and most terrible invasion occurred.  Then,
+according to Jeake, Rye was entirely burned, with the exception of the
+Landgate, the walls of the parish church, Ypres Tower, and the
+so-called Chapel of the Carmelite Friars in Watchbell Street.  The town
+was devastated to such an extent that it was unable to furnish its
+quota of ships to the navy.
+
+Then the sea encroached once more, and, washing away the cliffs on the
+east, destroyed the walls built under commission of Richard the First;
+and such was the condition of the town that Chaucer could write:
+
+  "As many another town is payrid and y-lassid
+  Within these few years, as we mow se at eye
+  Lo, Sirs, here fast by Wynchelse and Ry".
+
+
+Folks discovered that by skilful artificial drainage they could assist
+the inning, and so obtain an additional field at the extremity of their
+rightly-acquired land.  In 1724 we have Defoe writing: "By digging
+Ditches, and making Drains there are now Fields and Meadows where
+antiently was nothing but Water.  By this means Ships of but a middle
+Size cannot come to any convenient distance near the Town, whereas
+formerly the largest Vessels, and even whole Fleets together could
+anchor just by the Rocks on which the Town stands."
+
+But still, despite its struggles--perhaps by reason of them--Rye has
+always managed to carry on.  It has had its systole and diastole of
+success; but, unlike Winchelsea, it has never given up the fight.
+Periods there have been when every hand has seemed against it; but
+times there have been too--the Commonwealth, for instance--when the
+town has enjoyed a compensating prosperity.  It has fought for its
+existence, and it has survived; and there are no more apt words
+concerning the two Antient Towns than those of Coventry Patmore:
+"Winchelsea is a town in a trance, a sunny dream of centuries ago, but
+Rye is a bit of the Old World living on in happy ignorance of the New".
+
+At Winchelsea the church is the centre of everything: you cannot move a
+hundred yards without coming into sight of it.  But you might walk
+round and about Rye all day and not notice it.  Shut away at the top of
+the hill, behind and away from all the everyday business of life, in
+its isolation it somewhat resembles a cathedral.  But there the
+resemblance stops: there is no cathedral atmosphere.  True, there is a
+quiet in the square, but it is not the cold ghostly hush of the close
+or the cloister.  Instead, all is sunlight and warmth.  The walls are
+grey, the buttresses are grey, the tombs are grey, but it is a warm
+familiar colour, at one with the red of the lichen-grown roofs, in full
+harmony with the surrounding mosaic of colour.
+
+======================================================================
+
+[Illustration: RYE CHURCH]
+
+Rye church stands at the top of the hill, behind and away from all the
+everyday business of life.  Its walls are grey, but it is a warm
+familiar colour, at one with the red of the lichen-covered roofs.
+
+(_See page 54_)
+
+======================================================================
+
+Just below the churchyard, in the south-east corner, the Ypres (or, as
+it is called locally, the Wipers) Tower still stands, a squat,
+heavy-looking building, not altogether beautiful; and at the other end
+of the town the Landgate, the sole survivor of the town's five portals.
+Between these two, dotted about here and there in the winding,
+cobble-stoned streets, are buildings of great beauty, some
+unfortunately modernized on the outside.  One is the old rubble-stone
+building in Watchbell Street, commonly known as the Carmelite Friary.
+It is an interesting specimen of a small mediaeval hall with chambers
+below, but its association with the order is now pretty generally
+recognized as a mistake.  Steep little Mermaid Street--perhaps the most
+beautiful of all the quaint turnings--has two notable buildings, the
+Old Hospital and the Mermaid Inn.  The Hospital is a fine timbered
+structure with huge gables.  The Inn is a Tudor building, surrounding a
+tiny court.  Little is to be seen from the road; but inside it is a
+charming old-world place, with latticed windows and massive oak beams,
+fine panelling and great fireplaces.  In the stately red house at the
+head of the street Mr. Henry James for many years found inspiration for
+his wonderful studies of modern temperaments,--about as remote as
+possible from the atmosphere of the quaint little grass-grown street.
+Perhaps the most interesting of all the buildings is the Old Flushing
+Inn.  It possesses some fine oakwork, but the greatest attraction is
+the quaint mural painting in imitation of tapestry, covering the whole
+of one wall, and dating from 1574.  In olden days the place was a
+popular rendezvous among gentlemen of the "free trade", for in the rear
+it possessed a courtyard which extended right to the edge of the
+cliff--at that point practically vertical and about sixty feet
+high--and it was a simple matter to beach a boat just below.
+
+In High Street, almost facing the turning which leads up to the church,
+is a dark red-brick building of the seventeenth century: this is
+Pocock's Grammar School, which readers of Thackeray will remember as
+the place where Denis Duval was sent to be educated.  A little farther
+along we come to Conduit Hill, in which is situate the Ancient
+Monastery of the Austin Friars--a fair building, possessing that rare
+thing, flamboyant tracery.  If the ghosts of the little brothers of
+bygone days ever return to their former haunts, they must be deeply
+grieved or intensely amused, for the building has been everything from
+a malt-house to a Salvation Army barracks.
+
+As we leave the town a flood of questions surges into the brain,
+perhaps never to be answered.  Why is it there is such an attraction
+about Rye?  Why will men and women travel half across the world to see
+these crooked streets once more?  Why should the very mention of the
+name conjure up such haunting memories of the past?  There is very
+little in the place that is actually old--a gateway, one or two houses,
+a small tower, a church--yet the impression is one of remotest
+antiquity.
+
+
+
+
+BODIAM
+
+When in 1377, following on other successful raids, the French descended
+on Rye and sacked and fired the town, it became evident that Hastings
+could no longer afford sufficient protection to that stretch of the
+coast, or to the important river valley leading thence inwards; and the
+necessity for another stronghold was immediately realized.  Thus did
+Bodiam come into existence.
+
+It so happened that, at the moment when the defenceless condition of
+the Rother became apparent, there had come into the district a knight
+well skilled in all the military arts, one Edward Dalyngrigge, a member
+of an old Sussex family and brother to the sheriff of the county.
+Dalyngrigge had spent many years in France, and taken part in numerous
+expeditions, some of them scarcely creditable.  Following a fierce but
+capable warrior, one ready for almost any emergency, he had learned not
+only the art of the soldier but also the science of the castellan.
+Now, Sir Edward was married to Elizabeth Wardeux, the heiress of the
+manor of Bodiam, and therefore possessed of the old moated manor-house
+some distance from the river.  Consequently, in virtue of the necessity
+of the times, Sir Edward had little difficulty in extracting the
+licence to build a suitable castle.
+
+======================================================================
+
+[Illustration: BODIAM CASTLE]
+
+The castle is a ruin--a mere empty shell--but outwardly its towers and
+walls rise sheer from the lily-covered waters of the moat in a fine
+state of preservation.
+
+(_See page 59_)
+
+======================================================================
+
+The site selected was the left bank of the Rother, at a spot some
+thirty feet above the level of the water.  Partly by excavation, partly
+by damming up, a great reservoir was constructed, 525 feet from north
+to south and 330 feet from east to west; and in the centre an island
+was left, a little over an acre in extent.  On this island the castle
+was erected; and the basin was flooded from a little stream which the
+premeditating builder had previously diverted and dammed.  Northward
+the ground rose pretty steeply from the moat, a circumstance which
+seems to detract somewhat from the strength of the castle, till we
+remember that the planning and building were done in the days before
+artillery had become the deciding factor in warfare.  Southwards the
+ground fell away to the river, and because of this much doubt has been
+cast on the efficacy of the stronghold.  It has been pointed out
+frequently that an investing army would have had little difficulty in
+piercing the bank of the basin; but there was no mediaeval siege whereby
+its strength might have been tested.
+
+The castle was built in the form of a parallelogram, after the French
+model, with four strong curtain walls protected at the angles by boldly
+projecting round towers, 54 feet high and 29 in diameter.  Three of the
+curtain walls had intermediate square towers, while the fourth, that on
+the northern side, had a double tower flanking the great gateway.
+Between this deep and well-protected portal and the land stood an
+octagonal platform on which was built an advance work, or barbican, the
+intervening spaces being bridged by drawbridges.  Thus was the way into
+the castle strongly held by a succession of defences.
+
+As we approach the castle now from any side, it is difficult to realize
+that it is a ruin--a mere empty shell.  Outwardly its towers and walls
+rise sheer from the lily-covered waters of the moat in a fine state of
+preservation: curtain walls, round towers, square towers,
+battlements,--all are there as in the days that were.  True, the
+drawbridges are gone, and of the barbican only a fragment remains; but
+of the great donjon itself nothing appears to be missing until--until
+we cross the causeway where once the drawbridge rose and fell, and so
+come to the interior.  Then do we realize the antiquity of the place;
+for everything has crumbled to dust, leaving just here and there a
+suggestion of what has been--a window, a buttress, a fireplace.  Lines
+from Lord Thurlow's sonnet come to mind:
+
+              "Thou hast had thy prime,
+  And thy full vigour, and the eating harms
+  Of age have robb'd thee of thy warlike charms,
+  And placed thee here, an image in my rhyme;
+  The owl now haunts thee, and oblivion's plant,
+  The creeping ivy, has o'er-veil'd thy towers;
+  And Rother looking up with eye askant,
+  Recalling to his mind thy brighter hours,
+  Laments the time, when fair and elegant
+  Beauty first laugh'd from out thy joyous bowers".
+
+
+From the ruined fragments we mentally reconstruct the scene of the
+interior, the single courtyard in the centre, the two-story buildings
+all around with the chapel going up through both stories, and we note
+with astonishment the comparative convenience and comfort of the
+arrangements of the compact little fortalice.
+
+Certainly Bodiam (or Bojum, as it is pronounced locally) is the most
+picturesque castle in the south, many say in the whole, of England.
+Nestling in the little valley, surrounded by luxuriant greenery, it has
+not the impressive grandeur of the stronghold flaunting its strength at
+the head of some precipitous cliff, or bidding defiance to the hungry
+seas, but it has a beauty more at one with the spirit of Sussex and the
+south.
+
+And yet, Bodiam is a place of inviolate mystery.  You can fall in love
+with its unique situation, with its delightful lily-covered,
+bird-haunted setting; you can be impressed by its note of artistic
+completeness; but always there is something of loneliness and horror
+about the place.  Its walls are grey, but not with the grey of other
+castles.  It is a cold, pitiless grey, no matter how the sun shine, no
+matter how the water throw up again the quivering light.  There is a
+shudder in the air on the blithest summer day.  Perhaps it is that
+places, no less than men, gradually take upon them a personality.  If
+that is so, then surely Bodiam has taken the personality of its old
+founder, Dalyngrigge, a bleak enough man, if records speak truly, a man
+dark in deed and light of word.
+
+At Bodiam we leave this Enchanted Garden; and as we go we begin to
+wonder that a place so rich in memories and in charm has no
+representative poet, or, indeed, school of poets.  Sussex in general
+seems to have been sadly neglected by our singers.  Kipling has
+probably sung most in her praises; but even for Kipling the great chalk
+downs have always been Sussex.  And most of our other poets--Habberton
+Lulham, Arthur F. Bell, Rosamund Watson, Wilfred Scawen Blunt--have
+followed in his steps.  Only occasionally has one ventured down into
+the marshlands and the low rolling hills and the little river valleys
+in quest of beauty.  And yet beauty indescribable is here for the
+seeking.  Probably the poet who knows us best is Ford Maddox Hueffer,
+whose volume, _The Cinque Ports_, contains some magnificent
+word-pictures of these happy little hills and dales, and whose novel,
+_The 'Half Moon'_, gives such a faithful picture of Rye of ancient
+days.  The following fragment from one of his poems gives the marsh in
+all its beauty:
+
+  "Up here, where the air's very clear,
+  And the hills slope away nigh down to the bay,
+  It is very like Heaven....
+
+  "For the sea's wine-purple and lies half asleep
+  In the sickle of the shore and, serene in the west,
+  Lion-like purple and brooding in the even,
+  Low hills lure the sun to rest.
+
+  "Very like Heaven....  For the vast marsh dozes,
+  And waving plough-lands and willowy closes
+  Creep and creep up the soft south steep;
+  In the pallid North the grey and ghostly downs do fold away.
+  And, spinning spider-threadlets down the sea, the sea-lights dance,
+  And shake out a wavering radiance...."
+
+
+We close with a short passage from the volume on the Cinque Ports.  It
+was written concerning the old military canal at Winchelsea, but in its
+brooding spirit of contentment it applies but little less to the whole
+of this wonderful area.  "Nowhere is one so absolutely alone; but
+nowhere do inanimate things--the water plants and the lichens on the
+stiles--afford so much company.  It must not be hurried through, or it
+is a dull, flat stretch.  But linger and saunter through it, and you
+are caught by the heels in a moment.  You will catch a malady of
+tranquillity--a kind of idle fever that will fall on you in distant
+places for years after.  And one must needs be the better, in times of
+storm and stress, for that restful remembrance."
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's Hastings and Neighbourhood, by Walter Higgins
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