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diff --git a/33042-h/33042-h.htm b/33042-h/33042-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..586346a --- /dev/null +++ b/33042-h/33042-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,2528 @@ +<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.01 Transitional//EN"> +<HTML> +<HEAD> + +<META HTTP-EQUIV="Content-Type" CONTENT="text/html; charset=iso-8859-1"> + +<TITLE> +The Project Gutenberg E-text of Hastings and Neighbourhood, by Walter Higgins +</TITLE> + +<STYLE TYPE="text/css"> +BODY { color: Black; + background: White; + margin-right: 10%; + margin-left: 10%; + font-family: "Times New Roman", serif; + text-align: justify } + +P {text-indent: 4% } + +P.noindent {text-indent: 0% } + +P.poem {text-indent: 0%; + margin-left: 10%; } + +P.letter {text-indent: 0%; + margin-left: 10% ; + margin-right: 10% } + +P.caption {text-indent: 0% ; + font-size: 85% ; + margin-left: 10% ; + margin-right: 10% } + +P.caption2 {text-indent: 0% ; + font-size: 85% ; + text-align: center ; + margin-left: 10% ; + margin-right: 10% } + +P.transnote {text-indent: 0% ; + margin-left: 0% ; + margin-right: 0% } + +P.finis { font-size: larger ; + text-align: center ; + text-indent: 0% ; + margin-left: 0% ; + margin-right: 0% } + +H4.h4center { margin-left: 0; + margin-right: 0 ; + margin-bottom: .5% ; + margin-top: 0; + float: none ; + clear: both ; + text-align: center } + +IMG.imgcenter { margin-left: auto; + margin-bottom: 0; + margin-top: 1%; + margin-right: auto; } + +</STYLE> + +</HEAD> + +<BODY> + + +<pre> + +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Hastings and Neighbourhood, by Walter Higgins + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Hastings and Neighbourhood + +Author: Walter Higgins + +Illustrator: E. W. Haslehust + +Release Date: July 1, 2010 [EBook #33042] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HASTINGS AND NEIGHBOURHOOD *** + + + + +Produced by Al Haines + + + + + +</pre> + + +<BR><BR> + +<A NAME="img-cover"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-cover.jpg" ALT="Cover art" BORDER="0" WIDTH="573" HEIGHT="785"> +</CENTER> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<HR> + +<BR> + +<A NAME="img-front"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-front.jpg" ALT="THE OLD TOWN, HASTINGS" BORDER="0" WIDTH="512" HEIGHT="820"> +<H4 CLASS="h4center" STYLE="width: 512px"> +THE OLD TOWN, HASTINGS +</H4> +</CENTER> + +<P CLASS="caption"> +A few old timbered houses, the two churches, one on each side of the +slope, form, with the castle, the sum total of the tangible reminders +of ancient days. +</P> + +<P CLASS="caption2"> +(<I>See page 10</I>) +</P> + +<BR> + +<HR> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<H1 ALIGN="center"> +HASTINGS +</H1> + +<H2 ALIGN="center"> +AND NEIGHBOURHOOD +</H2> + +<BR> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +Described by Walter Higgins +<BR> +Painted by E. W. Haslehust +</H3> + +<BR><BR> + +<A NAME="img-title"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-title.jpg" ALT="Title page" BORDER="0" WIDTH="299" HEIGHT="423"> +</CENTER> + +<BR><BR> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +BLACKIE AND SON LIMITED +</H3> + +<H4 ALIGN="center"> +LONDON GLASGOW AND BOMBAY +<BR> +1920 +</H4> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +BEAUTIFUL ENGLAND +</H3> + +<P CLASS="noindent" STYLE="margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%"> +BATH AND WELLS—BOURNEMOUTH AND +CHRISTCHURCH—CAMBRIDGE—CANTERBURY—CHESTER AND THE DEE—THE CORNISH +RIVIERA—DARTMOOR—DICKENS-LAND—THE DUKERIES—THE ENGLISH +LAKES—EXETER—FOLKESTONE AND DOVER—HAMPTON COURT—HASTINGS AND +NEIGHBOURHOOD—HEREFORD AND THE WYE—THE ISLE OF WIGHT—THE NEW +FOREST—NORWICH AND THE BROADS—OXFORD—THE PEAK DISTRICT—RIPON AND +HARROGATE—SCARBOROUGH—SHAKESPEARE-LAND—SWANAGE AND +NEIGHBOURHOOD—THE THAMES—WARWICK AND LEAMINGTON—THE HEART OF +WESSEX—WINCHESTER—WINDSOR CASTLE—YORK. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +BEAUTIFUL SCOTLAND +</H3> + +<P CLASS="noindent" STYLE="margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%"> +EDINBURGH—THE SHORES OF FIFE. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +BEAUTIFUL IRELAND +</H3> + +<P CLASS="noindent" STYLE="margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%"> +LEINSTER—ULSTER—MUNSTER—CONNAUGHT. +</P> + +<BR> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +BEAUTIFUL SWITZERLAND +</H3> + +<P CLASS="noindent" STYLE="margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%"> +LUCERNE—VILLARS AND CHAMPERY—CHAMONIX—LAUSANNE AND ITS ENVIRONS. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<H2 ALIGN="center"> +CONTENTS +</H2> + +<BR> + +<H4> +<A HREF="#chap01">HASTINGS</A> +</H4> + +<H4> +<A HREF="#chap02">PEVENSEY AND HURSTMONCEUX</A> +</H4> + +<H4> +<A HREF="#chap03">BATTLE ABBEY</A> +</H4> + +<H4> +<A HREF="#chap04">ECCLESBOURNE AND FAIRLIGHT</A> +</H4> + +<H4> +<A HREF="#chap05">WINCHELSEA</A> +</H4> + +<H4> +<A HREF="#chap06">RYE</A> +</H4> + +<H4> +<A HREF="#chap07">BODIAM</A> +</H4> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<H2 ALIGN="center"> +LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS +</H2> + +<BR> + +<H4> +<A HREF="#img-front"> +The Old Town, Hastings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . <I>Frontispiece</I> +</A> +</H4> + +<H4> +<A HREF="#img-008"> +Hastings Castle +</A> +</H4> + +<H4> +<A HREF="#img-016"> +Hastings and St. Leonards from the Castle +</A> +</H4> + +<H4> +<A HREF="#img-021"> +St. Leonards Gardens +</A> +</H4> + +<H4> +<A HREF="#img-024"> +Pevensey Castle +</A> +</H4> + +<H4> +<A HREF="#img-028"> +The Gateway, Battle Abbey +</A> +</H4> + +<H4> +<A HREF="#img-033"> +Fairlight Glen +</A> +</H4> + +<H4> +<A HREF="#img-040"> +The Strand Gate, Winchelsea +</A> +</H4> + +<H4> +<A HREF="#img-048"> +Winchelsea Church +</A> +</H4> + +<H4> +<A HREF="#img-053"> +Rye +</A> +</H4> + +<H4> +<A HREF="#img-056"> +Rye Church +</A> +</H4> + +<H4> +<A HREF="#img-060"> +Bodiam Castle +</A> +</H4> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="chap01"></A> + +<A NAME="img-005"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-005.jpg" ALT="Hastings headpiece" BORDER="0" WIDTH="577" HEIGHT="318"> +</CENTER> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +HASTINGS +</H3> + +<P> +Hastings is the gateway into an enchanted garden. +</P> + +<P> +Between the hills and the sea it lies—the most romantic province in +this England of ours. Scarcely a place in it seems to belong to this +present: from end to end it is built up almost entirely of memories. +The very repetition of the names—Rye, Winchelsea, Pevensey, Battle, +Bodiam, Hurstmonceux—conjures up the past in all its magnificence and +all its sadness. Nowhere in so small a space shall you find so many +monuments to the greatness of England's former days, to the +imperishable glory of her people; nowhere in our coasts shall you find +a stretch of land so crowded with the ghosts of dead men and dead +empires. +</P> + +<P> +If for this alone, the territory, no matter how ill-favoured and +unattractive, would be worth visiting and revisiting. But there is yet +another call—that of the intrinsic beauty of the country-side. And +the call here is insistent. Hills and the sea; great folding downs and +little valleys dropping fatness; immense stretches of lonely marsh and +the nestling charms of copse-hidden villages; gentlest of streams +slipping lazily through peacefullest of domains; wildest of breakers +spending themselves at the base of steep tawny cliffs. Thus is the +land compact. One is always reminded of a passage from Mark Twain: +"That beauty which is England is alone; it has no duplicate. It is +made up of very simple details, just grass, and trees, and shrubs, and +roads, and hedges, and gardens, and houses, and churches, and castles, +and here and there a ruin, and over all a mellow dreamland of history. +But its beauty is incomparable and all its own." And search where you +will—north, south, east, west—nowhere can you come upon a spot to +which these words might with greater fitness be applied; for this +sequestered little area is the microcosm of England. +</P> + +<P> +Despite its wilderness of bricks and mortar, Hastings itself is, under +certain conditions, a place by no means unbeautiful. Possibly it is +from the sea that it appears in happiest mood. One can take a boat on +a high summer's morning, when the sun is shining gaily on its steep +grass-capped cliffs, its fragment of castle ruin, its red and blue-grey +roofs, when the sea is mazing away into every tint of emerald and +sapphire. Then it is a place fair to behold and pleasing to remember. +Or one can clamber to the top of the castle hill, and, Janus-like, +comprehend the town in its entirety—eastwards the old town and the +Past; westwards the modern watering-place and the Future. Then it is a +place for soliloquy and moralizing. +</P> + +<P> +Of the very early history of Hastings we know practically nothing, save +that it seems to have been for many years a place apart. Shut off from +the west by the invious flats of Pevensey, then one vast network of +lagoons: from the east by the greater marsh of Romney; secluded on the +north by the grey mystery of Andredesweald, which in those days came as +far south as the top of Fairlight Hill, the people experienced a +certain splendid isolation. So much so, in fact, that in the early +records it was quite customary to refer to them as a race apart, as +distinct as either of their nearest neighbours, the Jutes of Kent or +the Saxons of Sussex. "And all Kent and Sussex and Hastings" was a +phrase running easily from the pens of ancient chroniclers. +</P> + +<P> +No one knows their origin. There was a tribe of Hastengi dwelling on +the seaboard between the Elbe and what is now Denmark, having as a +chieftain one Haesten, a piratical Dane, with whose name that of the +town is often linked (erroneously, say some). In all probability, +following on some raid rather more extensive and successful than usual, +a party of these Hastengi came by this district as an allotment, and +chose to settle here, bringing over their families and herds. Maybe +thus the town was originated. +</P> + +<P> +One of their earliest tasks, doubtless, was the construction of a +stronghold, either the strengthening of an existing British earthwork +or the formation of an entirely new one. The conditions of life +demanded that they should possess such a fortification, a place which +should be at once the residence of the chief and a refuge for the +people in time of danger. And thus it happened that ere long there +came into existence the Hastinga-ceastre, mention of which is made in +the Anglo-Saxon Chronicle in 1050: "A little before that [the murder of +Beorn by Sweyn] the men of Hastinga-ceastre and thereabouts won two of +his ships with two of their ships and slew all the men and brought the +ships to Sandwich to the King". But prior to 1050 the town must have +attained to a considerable maritime strength and commercial eminence, +for in 924 Athelstan founded a mint here. The site of this successful +Saxon town and harbour is a matter of conjecture; only the hurrying sea +knows where it lies. +</P> + +<P> +History proper begins with the coming of the Norman adventurer, +although, singularly enough, that worthy paid little attention to the +town. Landing at Pevensey on 28th September, 1066, William made his +way to Hastinga-ceastre, which he occupied without much show of +resistance (despite the picture of burning houses in the Bayeux +Tapestry), for the ships had gone north with Harold, and the folks +around had neither the means nor the mind to fight. He stayed in the +district a fortnight, scouring round for provisions and terrorizing the +natives. During that time he set to work to build some sort of a +castle, probably on or near the spot where the ancient camp had stood, +and where later the Castle proper eventually rose. This we gather from +the Bayeux Tapestry, which depicts the digging and timbering of a +makeshift stronghold. On 14th October William marched northwards to +meet Harold, and the famous Battle of Hastings, or Senlac, was fought. +</P> + +<P> +Thence onward the town seems to have had a very chequered career. +Previous to the coming of the Normans the encroachments of the sea and +the gradual silting up of the old harbour (wherever it was) had +rendered necessary the laying down of a new town in a securer place, +and in all probability the building of the town between the east and +west cliffs was in that way begun—at a spot far to the south of the +present Old Town, of course. The township thus commenced was the <I>New +Burgh</I> afterwards mentioned in Domesday Book, and placed by William +under the jurisdiction of his kinsman, Robert, Count of Eu, and of the +Abbot of Fécamp. +</P> + +<P> +The Norman occupation heralded a period of prosperity, for everything +was done by William to foster good relationship between the kingdom and +the duchy. The continual passage of the monks between France and +England, the importation of Caen stone for the building of the abbey +(done until similar stone was discovered near at hand), made for +commercial growth and stimulated that shipbuilding industry which the +proximity of Andredesweald rendered possible. Robert of Eu at once +replaced the hastily-formed wooden fortress by a small stone castle, +and this was added to from time to time. And so the gradual progress +went on till the days of the completion of the Abbey in the reign of +the Red King: when Hastings reached its heyday. +</P> + +<P> +Not long, however, did it remain thus in the full flush of existence, +for from the time of Stephen onwards it began steadily to decay. Why +Hastings ever was the premier port of the Cinque Ports Confederacy it +is difficult to say. There were, as the name suggests, five +towns—Hastings, Sandwich, Dover, Romney, and Hythe; and in addition +there were Winchelsea and Rye, which differed merely in name, being +called the Antient Towns. If Hastings were ever the most successful of +these, it soon yielded pride of place to its neighbour and rival, +Winchelsea. The sovereigns, especially the Angevins, gradually +transferred their attentions to the more easterly rivals, proffering no +royal aid even when Hastings suffered badly. Slowly, therefore, but +certainly, the town sank to an insignificant position, with just here +and there a tiny patch of more glorious life; and it revived again only +as a result of one of the vagaries of fashion. +</P> + +<P> +It was about 1750 that it took on its second lease of life, soon after +the time when Brighton emerged from the obscurity of a small +fishing-village to form the fashionable watering-place. Society +doctors about that time discovered and began to recommend the +advantages of sea-bathing; and, the vogue spreading, Hastings began +rapidly to extend. When the Duke of Wellington brought his wife hither +in 1806 there were less than four thousand inhabitants; but little by +little the cosy valley, where the old town had so long nestled, ceased +to be big enough, so that the town overflowed its confines; and +eventually the modern resort commenced to flourish, west of the Castle +hill—like a garish fungoid growth at the end of some fallen monarch of +the forest. It was this modern development that excited the bitterness +of Charles Lamb when he wrote his well-known tirade: "I love town or +country; but this detestable Cinque Port is neither.... There is no +sense of home at Hastings. It is a place of fugitive resort, an +heterogeneous assemblage of sea-mews and stockbrokers, Amphitrites of +the town, and misses that coquet with the Ocean. If it were what it +was in its primitive state, and what it ought to have remained, a fair, +honest fishing-town, and no more, it were something—with a few +straggling fishermen's huts scattered about, artless as its cliffs, and +with their materials filched from them, it were something. I could +abide to dwell with Meshech, to assort with fisher-swains, and +smugglers.... But it is the visitants from town, that come here to say +that they have been here, with no more relish of the sea than a +pond-perch or a dace might be supposed to have, that are my +aversion.... What can they want here? What mean these scanty +book-rooms—marine libraries as they entitle them—if the sea were, as +they would have us believe, a book to read strange matter in? What are +their foolish concert-rooms, if they come, as they would fain be +thought to do, to listen to the music of the waves? All is false and +hollow pretension. They come because it is the fashion, and to spoil +the nature of the place." +</P> + +<HR> + +<BR> + +<A NAME="img-008"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-008.jpg" ALT="HASTINGS CASTLE" BORDER="0" WIDTH="505" HEIGHT="801"> +<H4 CLASS="h4center" STYLE="width: 505px"> +HASTINGS CASTLE +</H4> +</CENTER> + +<P CLASS="caption"> +A fragment of the castle alone remains, grimly clinging to the edge of +the cliff. +</P> + +<P CLASS="caption2"> +(<I>See page 13</I>) +</P> + +<BR> + +<HR> + +<P> +As we stroll about the streets of Hastings of to-day, it is difficult, +nay, it is impossible, to conjure up the past, to people these hills +and dales with the ghosts of days long since gone. True, there is the +Castle ruin, grimly clinging to the edge of the cliff; else there is +little but aggressive modernity. Such haven as there is now gives +cause rather for ridicule than pride. Few, standing at the Albert +Memorial, could ever conceive that here in this Priory valley was at +one time the great Port, protected on the east by the Castle hill, on +the west by the White Rock, and flushed from the north by the Old Roar +River. Well might our old Sussex poet, James Howell, sing: +</P> + +<P CLASS="poem"> +"Thou old sea-town, crouching beneath the rocks<BR> +Like a strong lion waiting for his prey!<BR> +Where are thy river, harbour, and the docks<BR> +In which the navy of Old England lay?<BR> +Why didst thou slumber, when in Pevensey Bay<BR> +The Normans' mighty host profaned our soil,<BR> +When thou, the Cinque-Port Queen, didst hold the key<BR> +Which locked the sea-gates of this freedom-isle?"<BR> +</P> + +<BR> + +<P> +Who, standing towards the south of the old town, where now are those +black, bill-plastered structures famed as "the fishermen's huts", could +call to mind a great wall with a gate and portcullis defending the town +on the seaward side? Yet a writer as late as 1828 could say: "Hastings +was formerly defended, towards the sea, by a wall, which extended from +the castle cliff across the hollow in which the town lies, to the east +cliff.... A very small portion of this wall still exists, and may be +traced near the Bourne's mouth, where there was a portcullis or gate; a +considerable part of it is stated to have remained about forty years +since." (William Herbert, the unacknowledged author of "<I>The History +and Antiquities of the Town and Port of Hastings</I>", by W. G. Moss, +draughtsman to H.R.H the Duke of Cambridge.) +</P> + +<P> +Now all has gone. Only the town remains much as before. The +description penned in 1828 (<I>ibid.</I>)—"The town consists principally of +two streets, High Street, and All Saints Street, each about half a mile +in length, running parallel nearly north and south, and separated by a +rivulet, called the Bourne, which runs into Hastings in a narrow and +inconsiderable stream, and empties itself into the sea. These narrow +streets are intersected by various smaller ones, or, more properly +speaking, alleys, which contain the dwellings of the fishermen and +other poor inhabitants of the place"—might well serve for the present +day, save that the inconsiderable Bourne has now entirely disappeared. +For the rest, a few old timbered houses, the two churches, All Saints +and St. Clements, one on each slope, form, with the Castle, the sum +total of the tangible reminders of ancient days. +</P> + +<P> +Nor has the town many definite associations as far as personalities go. +True, Titus Oates was baptized here in 1619, when his father was rector +of All Saints, and was himself curate in 1674; but the town can +scarcely be proud of him. One of the few old timbered houses in All +Saints Street is pointed out as the home of the mother of Sir +Cloudesley Shovell, but the only evidence in support of the claim is +the following extract (generally discredited) from De la Prynne's +diary: "I heard a gentleman say, who was in the ship with him six years +ago, that as they were sailing over against the town of Hastings in +Sussex, Sir Cloudesley called out: 'Pilot, put near; I have a little +business on shore.' They came to a little house—'Come,' says he, 'my +business is here; I came on purpose to see the good woman of this +house.' Upon which they knocked at the door, and out came a poor old +woman, upon which Sir Cloudesley kissed her, and then, falling down on +his knees, begged her blessing, and called her mother." +</P> + +<P> +Coventry Patmore and Sir John Moore both lived in the town for a time. +Otherwise the famous folk have for the most part been visitors. The +Duke of Wellington, then Major-General Wellesley, came hither with his +bride in 1806, he being then in charge of some twelve thousand soldiers +encamped near by. In August, 1814, Byron stayed for a period. "I have +been renewing my acquaintance with my old friend Ocean," he wrote, "and +I find his bosom as pleasant a pillow for one's head in the morning as +his daughters of Paphos could be in the twilight. I have been swimming +and eating turbot and smuggling neat brandies and silk handkerchiefs, +and walking on cliffs and tumbling down hills, and making the most of +the <I>dolce far niente</I> of the last fortnight." Thomas Hood spent his +honeymoon in the town about a decade later. Garrick, while staying at +East Cliffe House, planted in the garden a slip from Shakespeare's +mulberry-tree. +</P> + +<P> +West of Hastings, and now merging into it, is the town of St. Leonards. +It was founded in 1828 by a Mr. Burton, and took its name from the +sixth-century hermit after whom the well-known forest and a number of +churches round about were called. Here, at St. Leonards, Thomas +Campbell, the poet, lived, and his well-known "Address to the Sea", +commencing: "Hail to thy face and odours, glorious Sea!" was inspired +by the view from this point. If ever the town needed a testimonial it +could scarcely find better than the following passage from Theodore +Hook: "From the meditation in which he was absorbed, Jack [Bragg] was +roused upon his arrival at the splendid creation of modern art and +industry, St. Leonards, which perhaps affords one of the most beautiful +proofs of individual taste, judgment and perseverance that our nation +exhibits. Under the superintendence of Mr. Burton, a desert has become +a thickly peopled town. Buildings of an extensive nature and most +elegant character rear their heads where but lately the barren cliffs +presented their sandy fronts to the storm and wave, and rippling stream +and hanging groves adorn the vale which a few years since was a sterile +and shrubless ravine." But perhaps the eulogy must not be taken too +seriously. +</P> + +<HR> + +<BR> + +<A NAME="img-016"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-016.jpg" ALT="HASTINGS AND ST. LEONARDS FROM THE CASTLE" BORDER="0" WIDTH="507" HEIGHT="836"> +<H4 CLASS="h4center" STYLE="width: 507px"> +HASTINGS AND ST. LEONARDS FROM THE CASTLE +</H4> +</CENTER> + +<P CLASS="caption"> +West of Hastings, and now merging into it, is the town of St. Leonards, +"the splendid creation of modern art and industry. Buildings of an +extensive nature and most elegant character rear their heads where but +lately the barren cliffs presented their sandy fronts to the storm and +wave." +</P> + +<P CLASS="caption2"> +(<I>See page 16</I>) +</P> + +<BR> + +<BR> + +<P> +Taken together, Hastings and St. Leonards form a typical modern +watering-place,—with the quieter portion to the west, as is usual on +the south coast. Here, as an old guide book puts it, "every reasonable +wish may be gratified, whether the object of the visitant be health or +pleasure". And certainly the place does offer a fine selection of +attractions. For your more strenuous visitor there are ample +facilities for golf, tennis, swimming, &c.; for your ardent angler +there is the unique combination of good deep-sea and river fishing; for +your artist or photographer there are countless objects of beauty and +historical interest. For those who are content merely to idle away the +time amid beautiful surroundings there are the magnificent public +gardens,—Alexandra Park, Gensing Gardens, and St. Leonards Gardens. +Few towns in England can boast so rich a possession as the park, with +its lake, its woodland glades, its fine stretches of greenest turf, its +indescribably beautiful flowers; and few municipalities realize so +adequately the value of such a possession, if one may judge by the care +bestowed upon it. +</P> + +<BR> + +<BR> + +<A NAME="img-021"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-021.jpg" ALT="ST. LEONARDS GARDENS" BORDER="0" WIDTH="723" HEIGHT="549"> +<H4 CLASS="h4center" STYLE="width: 723px"> +ST. LEONARDS GARDENS +</H4> +</CENTER> + +<P CLASS="caption"> +Few towns in England can boast so rich a possession as the park, with +its lake, woodland glades, and beautiful flowers. +</P> + +<P CLASS="caption2"> +(<I>See page 17</I>) +</P> + +<BR> + +<HR> + +<P> +However, the surroundings of Hastings must still be its greatest asset. +To quote once more the grandiloquent old guide book,—"The vicinity of +the town abounds with delightful rides and walks; the pleasantness and +diversified character of which it is impossible not to admire; and +these are not only of a description superior, perhaps, to what are to +be found in almost any other part of the coast, but so numerous as to +afford that change which prevents the satiety arising from repetition". +</P> + +<P> +Still farther west lies Bexhill, a typically modern seaside resort. +Then follows a considerable stretch of meadow land, and at the other +side the first of the romantic centres in this cradle of English +history. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="chap02"></A> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +PEVENSEY AND HURSTMONCEUX +</H3> + +<P> +In all this storied region there is no spot so rich in memories as +Pevensey (or Pemsey, as it is called locally). Before such ancient +settlements as Rye and Winchelsea were dreamed of, while yet Hastings +was the merest collection of barbarian huts, Pevensey, or rather its +Roman predecessor, Anderida, was a fortified place with all the ebb and +flow of a flourishing life. +</P> + +<P> +Like Winchelsea, it has seen great changes—not quite so tragic +perhaps, but no less momentous—and like Winchelsea, too, in its tide +of fortune or disaster, it has been at the idle mercy of the fickle +sea. Where now—from the Channel inland for three or four +miles—stretches a wide plain, centuries ago the sea went on its way, +reaching inland as far as Hailsham, and leaving Pevensey and other +"eys"—Horseye, Chilleye, Rickney—islanded in its midst. In those +days Pevensey served a double purpose: it was an island stronghold and +a port—a gate to shut out and a gateway to welcome the alien mariner, +according to his intentions and its own will. Then the waters of the +Channel receded, and the puissant fortress, robbed of its vital +strength, sprawled helplessly at the mercy of any Philistine invader. +</P> + +<P> +It has had just this much of compensation: through its centuries of +serviceable isolation it has seen real life as a castle—withstood +sieges, beaten off marauding foes, taken sides in internal strife—and +in that it has had the cry over the most of our Sussex fortresses. +</P> + +<P> +Originally a Celtic stronghold, it became, by reason of its unique +situation, the Anderida of the Romans, a fortified enclosure following +roughly the shape of the knoll on which it stood. This was in the +third century. Two hundred years later, when the Romans had departed +and left behind an enervated British race, the invading Saxons +descended on the stronghold, put to death every Briton they could find, +and destroyed all traces of the Roman settlement within the walls. For +centuries after this the enclosure was unoccupied; but the port +continued its activities, for we read that in the years 1042 and 1049 +Earl Godwin and his sons, Sweyn and Harold, fell upon the place with +sword and torch, and carried off many ships. +</P> + +<P> +But its real value as a castle site was only completely realized when, +in September of the year 1066, William the Norman landed there with his +hordes of mailed warriors. He straightway gave the derelict to his +half-brother, Robert of Mortain, who proceeded to erect a Norman +fortress at the east end of the enclosure, using the strengthened Roman +walls as an outer line of defence. To this was added, two centuries +later, a strong inner keep. +</P> + +<P> +Since the time of the Norman landing Pevensey seems to have sustained +at least four earnest sieges. The first took place in 1088, when Odo, +Bishop of Bayeux, and supporter of Robert of Normandy, defended the +castle against the Red King: the second in 1147, when the place was +held for the Empress Matilda against King Stephen; and in both of these +cases the defenders were compelled by famine to surrender. The third +important attack was that of 1264, following the battle of Lewes, when +Simon de Montfort and the Barons sought in vain to reduce a garrison of +obstinate Royalists. It was during this particular siege that the +larger gap in the original Roman wall was initiated. The fourth and +last storming happened during the Wars of the Roses, when Lady Pelham, +a stanch supporter of the Lancastrian cause, successfully held out +against a force of local followers of Richard of York. +</P> + +<P> +After that the glory of the place departed, and it became a State +prison, wherein were incarcerated such illustrious personages as +Edward, Duke of York; James the First of Scotland; and Queen Joan of +Navarre, wife of Henry the Fourth. From the days of the seventh Henry +onwards it gradually fell into decay; and its present dilapidated +condition is due not so much to the violence of the sieges as to the +habit of the local gentry of using the remains as a handy quarry for +house-building purposes. For the presence of any remains at all our +thanks are due to that much-reviled thing the Spanish Armada. In the +year previous to the sailing of the fleet, orders were given for the +complete restoration or total demolition of the castle. Happily, in +the general confusion of the time, the instructions seem to have been +forgotten. Pevensey now is one of the most picturesque spots in the +south of England. The knoll on which it stands is sufficiently high to +give the castle a dignified appearance, as it rises up out of the +encompassing marshes; and yet there is none of that grim, forbidding +aspect generally so noticeable about castles perched on an eminence. +Rather is there about these ivy-mantled walls an atmosphere of sunlit +serenity quite out of keeping with the story of the place. Around the +little hill still stretch those amazing ancient Roman walls, with but +two considerable breaches. These walls for the most part fail to get +the attention they deserve. Visitors enter the little western gate and +pass across the meadow—once the outer ward—and so come to the +mediæval castle; but the outer walls are nearly a thousand years older +and of transcendent interest. What magnificent masons those old Romans +were! And what a secret they must have possessed for the making of +mortar and cement! In several places here the cement has endured +through all these hundreds of years, while even the outer stones have +crumbled away. At other points, too, the actual marks of the masons' +tools are visible in the ancient mortar. +</P> + +<HR> + +<BR> + +<A NAME="img-024"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-024.jpg" ALT="PEVENSEY CASTLE FROM THE MEADOWS" BORDER="0" WIDTH="730" HEIGHT="591"> +<H4 CLASS="h4center" STYLE="width: 730px"> +PEVENSEY CASTLE FROM THE MEADOWS +</H4> +</CENTER> + +<P CLASS="caption"> +Through centuries of serviceable isolation it has seen real life as a +castle—withstood sieges, beaten off marauding foes, and taken sides in +internal strife. +</P> + +<P CLASS="caption2"> +(<I>See page 23</I>) +</P> + +<BR> + +<HR> + +<P> +At the eastern end of the enclosure is the castle itself, with a +reed-grown moat on the northern and western sides. Most of this ruin +dates back only to the time of Edward the First, for the original +Norman fabric suffered too many sieges to endure in any completeness. +One of the great towers flanking the main gateway still stands, but the +other, like the drawbridge, has long since disappeared; three others +project from the wall at various intervals. Inside, very little +remains. Fragmentary ruins reveal the original site of the keep: the +extent of the chapel may be traced on the sward. But, for all the +scarcity of definite relics, the place is one to linger in and conjure +up the past, when these grass-grown spaces were instinct with a +hurrying life, when the meadows where now the cattle browse were filled +with anxious faces and beating hearts. +</P> + +<P> +Pevensey can own to one famous son at least, Andrew Borde, a man of +many parts. Carthusian monk, physician to Henry the Eighth, +litterateur, poor Borde died a prisoner in the Fleet Prison in 1549. +He was one of those unfortunates who seem never to do or say the right +thing at the right time. Born at the vicarage early in the sixteenth +century, he developed a turn for jesting, and it proved his undoing, +for bishops and kings had not his lively wit, and failed lamentably to +appreciate what was at once his gift and his failing. To his ready pen +have been ascribed the immortal epic "Tom Thumb", and the oft-told +"Merry Tales of the Wise Men of Gotham"—the latter collected and put +into literary form from the oral traditions of the country-side. +</P> + +<P> +Just up under the eastern wall of the castle is the so-called Mint +House, where Borde is reputed to have spent many of his days. It was +an interesting old place, with its panelled walls and numerous +passages; but it has now been rendered quite impossible by reason of +its conversion into a glorified old curiosity shop with a heterogeneous +collection of antiques. Other delightful houses there are, too, in +this double village of Pevensey and Westham, straggling away at either +side of the castle—low, picturesque timbered dwellings, at once the +delight and despair of would-be artists. At Westham is a noble old +church, the first built by the Conqueror, with remnants of the original +Norman fabric still serving their purpose. +</P> + +<P> +Striking east from the castle, the way out to Hurstmonceux lies down +through the village street, with the sea away to the right and the +marsh to the left. All along the coast here stand the Martello towers, +monuments to the hysteria of a former day. Poor Cobbett, in his <I>Rural +Rides</I>, could scarce find words bitter enough for these works. "To +think that I should be destined to behold these monuments of the wisdom +of Pitt and Dundas and Perceval! Good G—! Here they are, piles of +brick in a circular form about three hundred feet (guess) circumference +at the base, about forty feet high, and about one hundred feet +circumference at the top.... Cannons were to be fired from the top of +these things, in order to defend the country against the French +Jacobins! I think I could have counted along here upwards of thirty of +these ridiculous things, which, I dare say, cost five, perhaps ten, +thousand pounds each: and one of which was, I am told, <I>sold</I> on the +coast of Sussex, the other day, for two hundred pounds...." Some have +now been dismantled, having been rendered useless or dangerous by the +encroachments of the sea. Here and there is to be found one providing +habitation for a fisherman or a coastguard, or let out for the purpose +of a summer residence to some more than usually enterprising +holiday-maker. +</P> + +<P> +As soon as the water of Pevensey Haven is crossed, the way to +Hurstmonceux turns sharply to the north; and thence onward the road is +a perfectly flat one, winding in and out across the levels with seeming +aimlessness. Ahead, visible nearly all the way, the castle nestles +among the low hills that break sharply away from the flats, outposts of +the uplands of that same sandstone Forest Ridge which presses on +eastwards to form the cliffs beyond Hastings. On either side, away to +the distant hills, stretch the greenest of meadows, intersected by +innumerable watercourses, with but a few stunted thorns and an +occasional tuft of rushes to break the trackless level. Here the +soft-eyed Sussex beasts browse knee-deep in luxuriant pasturage. It is +a lonely spot, a place of drowsy solitude, where the plaintive call of +the plover seems the most natural melody. Yet, on a spring morning, +when great white clouds ride across the clear blue sky, when the thorn +is in bloom, and every ditch is brocaded with the gold of myriad +kingcups, then, indeed, it is a place of indescribable sweetness. +</P> + +<P> +Built at the time of the "last of the barons", Hurstmonceux marked the +transition in domestic architecture from the heavily-defended fortress +to the comfortable and luxurious manor-house. As early as the reign of +Edward the Third attempts had been made to combine the strength of +massive masonry with the convenience of more sumptuous apartments, such +castles as Raglan and Warwick leading the way. We have only to stroll +round the present remains to find ample evidence of this double +service. The great arched gateway and battlemented walls, the +machicolated octagonal towers, the moat and drawbridge, the loopholes +for cross-bows, the oeillets for the matchlock guns,—all witness to +the one purpose; while the size and number of the windows in the +dwelling-rooms quite well testify to the other. +</P> + +<P> +In these days the ruined castle is a place of great beauty. Time has +dealt less hardly with it than with some. The colour of the huge +red-brick front has been softened down by wind and rain to a restful +mellow tint in full harmony with the sombre green of the overhanging +masses of ivy; and, though the broken walls with their towers and +half-towers still have a martial air, they have lost much of their +severity of outline. +</P> + +<P> +In the full flush of its being it was a magnificent structure. Just +inside the great gateway there was a courtyard, generally known as the +"Green Court", surrounded by the cloisters. Just beyond this stood the +great dining-hall, a spacious chamber, 54 feet long and 28 wide, with +massive timbered roof and tiled floor; and, opening from it, the Pantry +Court, from which again a paved passage led to the garden. The east +side of the castle included the principal dwelling-apartments,—the +enormous drawing-room, where Grinling Gibbons's vine, a masterpiece of +carving, spread its magnificence over the walls and ceiling; the +chapel, extending up through the two stories; and, on the upper floor, +the "Ladies' Bower" with its peculiar oriel window—a room wherein, +tradition says, one of the fair daughters of Hurstmonceux was starved +to death in her twenty-first year. On the west were the domestic +apartments, among them the great kitchen and bakehouse, with an oven in +which, it was declared, a coach and horses might easily turn. On the +upper floor, lighted by the open space of the Green Court, were the +Bethlehem chambers, otherwise the guest-rooms, and the Green Gallery, a +room filled with pictures and hung with green cloth. One old writer +speaks of these upper rooms as "sufficient to lodge a garrison"; and +adequate provision would seem to have been necessary, for in its heyday +Hurstmonceux had many and illustrious visitors. Everything seems to +have been done on such a lavish scale that we are fully prepared for +such interesting details as the record that at the marriage of Grace +Naylor "butts of beer were left standing at the park gates for the +refreshment of chance passers-by"; also that twenty old female +retainers were kept constantly employed at the weeding and tidying of +the Green and other courtyards. +</P> + +<P> +For long it was a mere skeleton, at the mercy of nature and man. As +late as 1752 Horace Walpole could write of it in a letter to his friend +Richard Bentley: "It was built in the reign of Henry VI, and is as +perfect as the first day. It does not seem to have ever been quite +finished, or at least that age was not arrived at the luxury of +whitewash, for almost all the walls are in their native brick-hood." +And yet, despite Mr. Walpole's assertions as to its continued +perfectness, so soon after this as 1777 the castle was dismantled. The +truth is: if the castle has escaped the general fate of this region and +avoided the scourge of the invader, it has nevertheless suffered much +at the hands of its friends. In the year mentioned the owner was a +Mrs. Henrietta Hare, ancestor of the author of <I>Memorials of a Quiet +Life</I>, a volume which deals very faithfully with this ancient fabric. +This lady, desiring to use the materials for the construction of a new +mansion on a higher site, called in the arch-vandal Wyatt, and he (to +quote Augustus Hare's <I>Memorials</I>) "declared that the castle was in a +hopeless state of dilapidation, though another authority had just +affirmed that in all material points its condition was as good as on +the day on which it was built.... The castle was unroofed.... A great +sale was held in the park, whither the London brokers came in troops, +and lived in an encampment of tents during the six weeks which the sale +lasted. Almost everything of value was then dispersed. Mrs. Hare and +her husband afterwards resided at Hurstmonceux Place, the new house +which Wyatt was commissioned to build, and lived there in such +extravagance that they always spent a thousand a year more than their +income, large as it was, and annually sold a farm from the property to +make up the deficiency. It was a proverb in the neighbourhood at that +time that 'people might hunt either Hares or foxes'." +</P> + +<P> +And thus it stood, a ruined shell, until comparatively recent years. +The many curious staircases built in the thicknesses of the walls, the +secret underground passages, and the general isolation on the edge of +the marsh, all contrived to render the ruin an ideal rendezvous for +smugglers and a suitable depository for their stores of contraband. +</P> + +<P> +Now, fortunately, the castle is in the hands of one who, appreciating +such a possession, is taking steps to prevent any further decay, and +with a loving care and a sense of fitness is proceeding with the +delicate task of necessary restoration. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="chap03"></A> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +BATTLE ABBEY +</H3> + +<P> +To Battle is the excursion of paramount interest from the popular point +of view. The association with one of the most momentous events in the +history of the land, the peculiar entertainment of standing on the +actual ground where the battle took place and the "last of the English" +fell, the intrinsic pleasure in the inspection of a ruin at once rich +in memories and comely in setting,—all contrive to make it the +pilgrimage into the country around. Other ruins may surpass it in +degree of preservation, in individual reminiscence, in charm of +situation, but none, not even Pevensey, can vie with the Abbey in +strength of appeal. +</P> + +<P> +It was erected on the actual place of the contest. On the eve of the +battle, when the rival forces were assembled and ready for the shock of +arms, William, in a sudden fit of piety—or nervousness—made a solemn +vow that, should victory be his, he would found a mighty church, in +token of his thankfulness for the Divine intervention. And when it was +all over, and the English had fallen, he quickly made good his promise. +Practical men came to him urging the unsuitable nature of the site, +high up on the hill-side away from all water. Rather would they build +down there in the hollow, where the springs ever gushed forth freely. +But not so William: the church should rise on the field of blood, and +the high altar should mark the spot where his adversary had fallen. +And for the matter of water: if that were lacking, well, wine should be +more plentiful in the new Abbey than water in other religious houses. +Thus came the venerable Abbey of St. Martin into existence. +</P> + +<P> +The story of the battle is perhaps the most fascinating in all our +catalogue of worthy fights. When William landed on these shores Harold +was at York, recuperating after the superhuman efforts which culminated +in the battle of Stamford Bridge, where he entirely defeated an +invading force under Harold Haardrada and his own brother, Tostig. He +had marched two hundred miles or more to defeat one foe, and it was now +necessary for him to carry out a still greater expedition to engage a +second. He halted several days in the capital while the process of +collecting troops from the midlands and the south went on. At last, on +October the twelfth, he moved on to meet William. With him he took but +a small army. Had he waited just a short time longer (the delay would +not have mattered, for William had no intention of leaving the coast) +he could have gathered a force sufficiently large to overwhelm the +invaders; but he made the common mistake of holding the enemy too +cheaply. A series of forced marches commenced in the hopes of catching +William unawares came to nought, owing to the vigilance of the Duke's +marauding bands. On the night of the thirteenth he arrived at the +fatal hill, and pitched his camp on the site of the present town of +Battle. +</P> + +<HR> + +<BR> + +<A NAME="img-028"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-028.jpg" ALT="THE GATEWAY, BATTLE ABBEY" BORDER="0" WIDTH="509" HEIGHT="808"> +<H4 CLASS="h4center" STYLE="width: 509px"> +THE GATEWAY, BATTLE ABBEY +</H4> +</CENTER> + +<P CLASS="caption"> +The Abbey was erected on the field of the Battle of Hastings. The +gateway was added in 1338 to the work begun by William the Conqueror. +</P> + +<P CLASS="caption2"> +(<I>See page 36</I>) +</P> + +<BR> + +<HR> + +<P> +Harold apparently knew this part of Sussex quite well, being the lord +of several manors round about; and so his well-chosen ground does not +surprise us. A long spur of upland here thrusts out boldly from the +main mass of wooded hill-side, and commands a view over a wide stretch +of rolling ground away to the sea. On a crest of this spur he ranged +his army, with the mailed warriors in front forming a continuous +shield-wall. +</P> + +<P> +The descriptions of the night before the battle—all from Norman +sources, by the way—make vastly interesting reading. Albeit they vary +in certain minor matters, they are in one accord concerning the +characters of the rival armies—the drunken English and the pious +Normans. The former spent the night in one big carousal—dancing, +singing, drinking immense quantities of liquor; the latter devoted +their time to prayers and the confession of their sins. And yet, +strange to say, the English seem to have been quite fit in the morning, +for they put up a remarkably good fight. They held their own through +the best part of the day, and in the end were defeated only by their +own eagerness. +</P> + +<P> +Hour after hour the Normans surged up the hill, assailing the English +position, and again and again were they driven back by the terrible +battle-axes of their opponents. So well was Harold's position chosen +that they could make little impression; and it is fair to hazard that +in the end they would have met with defeat, had not some of the +less-disciplined troops forsaken their advantage and impetuously +pursued the panic-stricken enemy into the valley below. Here the +conditions were different, and the sword was more than a match for the +battle-axe and javelin, with the consequence that the rash English were +badly cut up. William noticed this, and determined to try the +"strategic retreat" on a larger scale. Accordingly one wing—the +western—was ordered to turn tail and retire as though in disorder. +This they did. The English, lured on by their wily foes, readily gave +up their more favourable position, and then, as before, the French +turned and engaged them, while a wedge of cavalry inserted itself and +harassed them in the rear. This descending movement had left open a +considerable portion of the English line, and on this William +concentrated the pick of his forces. But still the English fought on +stubbornly. In one place they also saw the advantage of the feigned +flight, and induced the French cavalry to charge into an unsuspected +ravine, whence not a man escaped. +</P> + +<P> +As the shades of evening fell no one might say where the advantage lay: +the English shield-wall was broken in places, but it still presented a +formidable line; the French still pressed on eagerly. Then to Duke +William came the great inspiration which turned the day, and won for +him the battle and the crown. So far his archers had done little to +justify their presence on the field. Now William saw that if they were +ordered to shoot their arrows high into the air these would descend +with terrific force upon the heads of the foe, and work great +execution. The command was carried out, and one of the first to fall +was the English king himself, his right eye pierced by a shaft. +</P> + +<P> +With Harold fell the English fortunes. His soldiers struggled on +desperately till night closed down, but their valour was in vain, and +after a day's continuous fighting the Normans were left the victors of +the field. +</P> + +<P> +Building operations were duly commenced, and proceeded apace. The +growing Abbey was richly endowed, and its Superior granted numerous and +great privileges. Not, however, till William had been dead some seven +years was it finished. Then for several centuries it enjoyed a +flourishing existence, extending its scope and increasing its wealth. +The great gateway was added in 1338, and was the work of Abbot Retlyng. +</P> + +<P> +The income of the Abbey was enormous, and the wanton generosity of the +brothers made Battle a happy hunting-ground for the pilgrims and +vagabonds and ne'er-do-wells in the south-east of England. But its +long years of prosperity proved its undoing, for slothful ease gave way +to greater evils. The great place decayed in every sense, and when, in +1538, Henry's commissioners appeared at its gate, it was in a fit +condition to be suppressed. Layton, the chief commissioner, says of +it: "So beggarly a house I never see, nor so filthy stuff. I will no +20s. for all the hangings in this house, as the bearer can tell you.... +So many evil I never see, the stuff is like the persons"; and he +further speaks of the inmates as "the worst that ever I see in all +other places, whereat I see specially the blake sort of dyvellyshe +monks". +</P> + +<P> +As we pass through the magnificent gateway, worthy indeed to guard the +treasure within, our pleasure increases at every step, for though the +ruins are but few and fragmentary they are enshrined in that most +glorious of settings, a beautiful garden. The great church itself has +long since disappeared, for Sir Anthony Browne, to whom the place was +given after the visit of the vandal commissioners, saw nothing of worth +in it. Just a fragment of the nave wall is pointed out in the woodyard +at the back of the modern mansion, and a piece of the cloister arcading +on the east side. But we can get a very good idea of its great size +from the disposition of the ruins. The spot to which we turn with +eagerness is the site of the high altar, the death-place of Harold. It +is a spot of beauty now, with its moss-grown stones, its ferns and +greenery; and we would fain linger awhile to think on all the Norman +invasion brought, all its woes and its brightnesses; but the guide is +inexorable: we must pass on with the flock of tourists to view the only +considerable remain, the Early English hall, generally known as the +Refectory. The walls of this stand roofless to the sky, with a lawn in +place of a floor. Below there are three fine vaulted chambers—one, +the Scriptorium, with a good geometrical window and a vaulted roof +supported by graceful pillars. +</P> + +<P> +But after all we come away with no very clear idea of the place; and +perhaps it is as well. Instead, we have a vague, an impressionist +picture of flowers and ruins, grey stones mantled with gorgeous +blossoms; and over all a brooding serenity. +</P> + +<P> +The pedestrian's route, by which we may either come to Battle or +return, passes through Hollington and Crowhurst. At the latter place +is one of the most famous yews in the country; at the former is the +notorious "Church in the Wood". Just why this little church should +ever have attained to its present eminence as a goal of pilgrimage we +fail utterly to comprehend. There is nothing remarkable about the +edifice itself, either in the way of structure or ornaments; the +graveyard is too crowded with the hideous monuments of parvenu +strangers to be interesting; the approach is little more than +commonplace. Yet for all that, thousands come and go through the +summer months, and on fine Sundays the little sanctuary is packed to +the door, doubtless to the entire satisfaction of the clergy. Charles +Lamb discovered the place many years ago, when the surroundings were +rather more favourable; and we should certainly give thanks, for the +visit gave rise to an inimitable passage: "It is a very Protestant +Loretto, and seems dropt by some angel for the use of the hermit, who +was at once parishioner and a whole parish.... It is built to the text +of 'two or three are assembled in my name'. It reminds me of the grain +of mustard seed. If the glebe land is proportionate, it may yield two +potatoes. Tithes out of it could be no more split than a hair. Its +first fruits must be its last, for 'twould never produce a couple. It +is truly the strait and narrow way, and few there be—of London +visitants—that find it.... It is secure from earthquakes, not more +from sanctity than size, for 'twould feel a mountain thrown upon it no +more than a taper-worm would. Go and see, but not without your +spectacles." +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="chap04"></A> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +ECCLESBOURNE AND FAIRLIGHT +</H3> + +<P> +East of the old town is a stretch of cliffs several miles long, made +up, like the Forest Ridge, of Lower Cretaceous rocks. Several little +wooded valleys extend from the high lands right down to the sea, and +two of these have attained to a desirable celebrity under the names of +Ecclesbourne and Fairlight Glens. +</P> + +<P> +Many folk, visiting these two spots in August, go away with a feeling +of utter disappointment, for the grass is rusty and the place strewn +with the indescribable litter of a myriad picnic-parties. But in the +spring of the year, when the little watercourse at the bottom is at its +fullest, when there are countless primroses beneath the fine old trees, +when everything is green down to the water's edge, then do these glens +deserve their reputations. +</P> + +<HR> + +<BR> + +<A NAME="img-033"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-033.jpg" ALT="FAIRLIGHT GLEN" BORDER="0" WIDTH="506" HEIGHT="819"> +<H4 CLASS="h4center" STYLE="width: 506px"> +FAIRLIGHT GLEN +</H4> +</CENTER> + +<P CLASS="caption"> +In the spring of the year, when the little watercourse is at its +fullest, there are countless primroses beneath the fine old trees, and +everything is green down to the water's edge. +</P> + +<P CLASS="caption2"> +(<I>See page 39</I>) +</P> + +<BR> + +<HR> + +<P> +In Fairlight there are two famous spots—the Dripping Well and the +Lovers' Seat. The well, situated at the northern end of the glen, +shows a decided tendency to follow the custom of most local waters, but +we can nevertheless get some idea of what a pretty little spot it must +have been at its best. The Lovers' Seat is a little to the east, high +up on the face of a steep, shrub-grown cliff. A large rock overhangs +at the top, and beneath is a tiny platform, slowly disappearing. It is +a fine place, especially on an early summer morning, when the air is +athrob with the tumultuous melody of the birds in the glen below, and +the sea birds wheel round the aerie—a place well fitted to stir even +Charles Lamb to praise: "Let me hear that you have clambered up to +Lovers' Seat; it is as fine in that neighbourhood as Juan Fernandez, as +lonely too, when the fishing-boats are not out; I have sat for hours +staring upon a shipless sea. The salt sea is never so grand as when it +is left to itself." Of course it has a story: what similar romantic +spot has not? Doubt has been cast on the veracity; but such pretty +tales certainly <I>ought</I> to be true. +</P> + +<P> +East of the glen lies Cliff End, where the brown sandstone cliffs dip +down sharply once more to the level marshlands. The path thither +meanders along the top of the cliffs, now approaching perilously near +the edge to give a glimpse of some sweet little hanging dell with trees +right down to the waves, now wandering inland a little through acres of +bee-thronged gorse and heather. It is such a spot as Richard Jefferies +loved: "All warmly lit with sunshine, deep under liquid sunshine like +sands under the liquid sea, no harshness of man-made sound to break the +isolation amid nature". +</P> + +<P> +Once at Cliff End we marvel, and yet offer up fervent thanks that it is +not one of the "show places" of the district. The low rolling hills, +having constituted the coast-line for half a dozen miles, at this point +break away inland to form a delightful country-side. By so doing they +enclose what was formerly a great lagoon or inland sea, having long +arms, or fiords, running up into the different river-valleys of Brede, +Tillingham, and Rother. Now the sea has gone, and there, in its place, +stretch away acres upon acres of marshland, marked out like a piece of +old patchwork by the countless watercourses—a place of stressless +labour and contentment. +</P> + +<P> +As we stand at this place and gaze out eastwards upon those broad acres +of sun-washed, wind-swept meadow-land, where now the cattle and sheep +graze peacefully and the shepherd slumbers at his post, it is difficult +to realize that here the fishermen once dropped their nets, and the +ships of war rode majestically at anchor—ready at any moment to +venture forth against marauding foes. Yet Winchelsea, which stands out +in the distance—seeming one day miles away and another barely a +stone's throw—and Rye, a tiny town, perched on its little hill some +three miles farther on, were each ports of the first +magnitude—veritable cradles of the navy and the Empire. +</P> + +<P> +From the Cliff End here we have a choice of two routes: either we can +proceed by road to Icklesham, a place well worth a visit for the sake +of its interesting old church, and then on to Winchelsea; or, better +still, we can tramp the few miles beside the old military canal, which +serves to link up that town with the sea. This latter is certainly a +delightful walk, and well worth the fatigue of an extended effort. As +we drop down the slope, we note, on the lower ridges of the hills, +Pett, the insignificant village which has given its name to the Level, +or tongue of "polder", stretching away to Rye, and extending eastwards +into that greater flat, the Romney Marsh; and, farther on, Guestling. +Not hastily, however, must Guestling be passed by, for though the +village is commonplace enough to the eye, the name is charged with +ancient memories. Originally the "Guestling" was a sort of conference +between the Ports and distant fishing colonies such as Yarmouth; but +gradually it developed into a local Parliament held to settle disputes +among the folks of the rival fisher towns as to questions of rights and +privileges. It met in the church itself, and possessed a Speaker and +something of the paraphernalia of full judicial power. Here is what +the good old Jeake says about it in his ancient <I>History of the Cinque +Ports</I>: "By the same name of <I>Guestling</I>, is also a Court called, that +consisteth but of <I>part</I> of the <I>Ports</I> and <I>two Towns</I>, as suppose +Hastings, Winchelsea, and Rye, raised upon request of one of them; +where by consent, and as by brotherly invitation, they appear to agree +on something necessary to their respective Towns." +</P> + +<P> +The old canal, like the Martello towers, roused the scorn of Cobbett: +"Here is a canal <I>to keep out the French</I>; for these armies who had so +often crossed the Rhine, and the Danube, were to be kept back by a +canal, made by Pitt, thirty feet wide at the most". But despite +Cobbett's words it was no mean feat of military engineering for those +days, as the following particulars, culled from Horsfield, the old +county historian, will show: "The Military Canal, which was cut, during +the late war with France, as a protection to the lowlands in the +eastern part of this county and the adjoining portion of the county of +Kent, by impeding the progress of an enemy, in the event of a landing +on this shore, commences at Cliffe End, in the parish of Pett, and +following the course of the rising ground, which skirts the extensive +flat forming Walland and Romney Marsh, crosses the Roman Road near +Hythe, and extends, in nearly a straight direction, along the coast to +its termination at Shorne Cliffe, in Kent; a distance of about +twenty-three miles. Its breadth is about twenty yards, and its depth +three; with a raised bank or redan on the northern side to shelter the +soldiery, and enable them to oppose the foe with greater advantage." +Now everything is changed; this monument of warlike stupidity has +become a haunt of peace. Thus has Time effected another of its little +travesties. +</P> + +<P> +Following the reed-grown, bird-haunted waterway, we skirt the peninsula +on which the town is perched, and come finally to the foot of the road +which winds diagonally up to the Strand Gate. Thus is the town entered +by its most beautiful approach. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="chap05"></A> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +WINCHELSEA +</H3> + +<P> +Every spot in this delectable corner of England—Pevensey, +Hurstmonceux, Hastings itself, Bodiam, Rye—is redolent of the triumph +of change; but Winchelsea stands before us a perfect memorial to the +futility of man's efforts against Nature, a tangible reminder of the +irony of Time. +</P> + +<P> +This ancient town, perched, like Rye, on a solitary hillock projecting +into the midst of a vast plain, is, despite its years and its ruins, +really a <I>new</I> Winchelsea. The old town—the city proper—a prosperous +place of seven hundred householders and fifty odd inns, lies beneath +the ever-changing sea, some two miles (some say, five) south-east of +the present site. Serious trouble began in 1250 with a great tempest, +concerning which Holinshed writes: "On the first day of October (1250) +the moon, upon her change, appearing exceeding red and swelled, began +to show tokens of the great tempest of wind that followed, which was so +huge and mightie, both by land and sea, that the like had not been +lightlie knowne, and seldome, or rather never heard of by men then +alive. The sea forced contrarie to his natural course, flowed twice +without ebbing, yielding such a rooring that the same was heard (not +without great woonder) a farre distance from the shore.... At +Winchelsey, besides other hurt that was doone in bridges, milles, +breakes, and banks, there were 300 houses and some churches drowned +with the high rising of the watercourse." Not even then did the people +give in; but from 1250 to 1287 Neptune and other sovereign powers +descended mightily on the poor old town, and its tragedy was completed +when, during an utterly disastrous tempest, the whole district between +Pett and Hythe was inundated. +</P> + +<P> +At this time Edward the First was Warden of the Cinque Ports, and the +planning of the new town seems to have been to him and his associates a +simple and congenial task. The present triangular plateau was chosen, +falling precipitously on three sides, with its narrow end towards +Hastings; and the new town was projected and begun on truly magnificent +lines. Edward seems to have been quite a pioneer in the modern science +of town-planning, for Winchelsea, like several other towns set out by +him, was given an oblong shape, and this was divided up into +thirty-nine or forty squares by means of wide streets intersecting at +right angles. +</P> + +<P> +On the north the town stood upon a cliff overhanging the Brede fiord; +on the east the land fell away precipitously to the sea itself. At the +north-east and north-west corners of the plateau, roads were made down +to the sea, with quays at the bottom of each, and great gates, the +Strand and Ferry, at the top. At the land end yet another gate was +built, the New, and the extremity protected by a moat and stone walls. +A castle was built, and full provision made for the resumption of the +commerce of the port. +</P> + +<HR> + +<BR> + +<A NAME="img-040"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-040.jpg" ALT="THE STRAND GATE, WINCHELSEA" BORDER="0" WIDTH="512" HEIGHT="829"> +<H4 CLASS="h4center" STYLE="width: 514px"> +THE STRAND GATE, WINCHELSEA +</H4> +</CENTER> + +<P CLASS="caption"> +Winchelsea stands upon a plateau, at the north-east and north-west +corners of which roads were made down to the sea, with quays at the +bottom of each, and great gates, the Strand and Ferry, at the top. +</P> + +<P CLASS="caption2"> +(<I>See page 49</I>) +</P> + +<BR> + +<HR> + +<P> +The various religious houses were reproduced as in the dead town, and +ere long the lusty life of the old place began again in earnest. The +town became self-supporting with its shipbuilding and fishing, and its +galaxy of representative craftsmen, and offered a splendid channel for +trade to and from the mainland. Being a serviceable defensive port, it +rehabilitated itself as a rendezvous for the navy, and combined with +that importance the added attraction of being the best base on the +coast for pirates. So well was the latter occupation organized that we +read of one of the mayors of the town—one Robert de Battayle—being +caught red-handed and summarily punished for acts of piracy. +</P> + +<P> +And what remains? Very little. At the northern end certain of the +spacious streets are inhabited but generally grass-grown. These show +the original divisions and dimensions; but southwards and westwards the +majestic squares have become merely green fields, until at last the +boundaries have been lost altogether. Ancient words of doom ring in +our ears as we survey the scene: "Thorns shall come up in her palaces, +nettles and brambles in the fortresses thereof.... They shall be left +altogether unto the fowls of the mountains and to the beasts of the +earth; and the fowls shall summer upon them, and all the beasts of the +earth shall winter upon them." +</P> + +<P> +The church, or rather a certain portion of it, still stands, with a +generous margin of green surrounding it, and within its walls the fine +canopied tomb of Gervase Alard, admiral of the Cinque Ports. A short +distance down the road, south-east of the church, is the mansion known +as "The Friars": in its beautiful grounds stands practically all that +remains of the religious houses—the ivy-grown ruin of the chapel of +the Franciscan Monastery. With this mansion and with the brothers +Weston, the rogues who dwelt in it, all lovers of Thackeray's <I>Denis +Duval</I> will doubtless be familiar. The gates of the town still frown +down on the approaching roads; but wall, castle, quays, all are gone, +and the place is now, to use Wesley's words, "that poor skeleton of +ancient Winchelsea". +</P> + +<HR> + +<BR> + +<A NAME="img-048"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-048.jpg" ALT="WINCHELSEA CHURCH" BORDER="0" WIDTH="514" HEIGHT="831"> +<H4 CLASS="h4center" STYLE="width: 514px"> +WINCHELSEA CHURCH +</H4> +</CENTER> + +<P CLASS="caption"> +The church, or a certain portion of it, still stands, with a generous +margin of green surrounding it, and within its walls the fine canopied +tomb of Gervase Alard, Admiral of the Cinque Ports. +</P> + +<P CLASS="caption2"> +(<I>See page 48</I>) +</P> + +<BR> + +<HR> + +<P> +And small wonder too, for every hand has been against it. At the time +of its building the Black Death made its appearance, destroying +countless inhabitants and dispersing the craftsmen. The town was +sacked by the French in 1359, when three thousand entered with sword +and torch. Again, in 1378, the same catastrophe occurred. In 1449 +they visited once more, but did little damage. For by this time +another enemy had set to work—the worst enemy of all. The sea, which +in its inconstancy had made the new Winchelsea at the expense of the +old, was calmly receding and leaving the Antient Town high and dry, +with a perpetually increasing bank of shingle in between. +</P> + +<P> +Now, as we stand at the Strand Gate, and watch the sea away to the +south, with its ever-changing pageant of azure and amethyst, and as we +turn about and enter through the old gate to walk the grass-grown +streets, we laugh at Neptune's jest; but there is something tragic in +the laughter. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="chap06"></A> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +RYE +</H3> + +<P> +Rye, as it stands, is the completest place in England. A little +conical hill rises abruptly out of the encompassing marshes, and all +around that little hill, wherever it can gain secure hold, clings the +town. The tall houses rest tier upon tier, as if standing on tiptoe to +get a better view of the approaching enemy; and the cobble-paved +streets wind in and about, so that every available inch of space may be +utilized for house or hanging garden. Crowning it all rises the +ancient church with its high red roofs and tower. +</P> + +<HR> + +<BR> + +<A NAME="img-053"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-053.jpg" ALT="RYE" BORDER="0" WIDTH="737" HEIGHT="576"> +<H4 CLASS="h4center" STYLE="width: 737px"> +RYE +</H4> +</CENTER> + +<P CLASS="caption"> +A conical hill rises abruptly out of the encompassing marshes, and all +around that little hill, wherever it can gain secure hold, clings the +town. +</P> + +<P CLASS="caption2"> +(<I>See page 50</I>) +</P> + +<BR> + +<HR> + +<P> +Probably the best approach is from Camber. We can tramp the three long +dusty miles of the military road from Winchelsea, catching just a +glimpse of the massive, low-lying structure of Camber Castle on the +other side of the stream; or else we can take the road to the right, +and, sweeping seawards, come round to the castle itself, pausing a +while to wander about these walls which have stood the rough usage of +the south-westerly gale so well since the time of the eighth Henry. +Leaving Camber, the way across to Rye is hazardous. So many waterways +intersect the shingly meadows that by the time we come out at the right +place an extraordinarily tortuous path has been followed. +</P> + +<P> +The history of Rye is much akin to that of the sister town, a story of +one long succession of struggles against the two enemies, the sea and +the French. Although the place was a natural stronghold by reason of +its unique formation, yet, after a time, the necessity for artificial +works was felt, and in the twelfth century a small tower, afterwards +known as the Ypres, was constructed near the top of the southward +cliffs, a square structure of two stories with a circular turret at +each angle. A few years afterwards, in the reign of Richard the First, +licence was granted for the building of a town wall; and still later, +in the reign of Edward the Third, the fortifications were completed by +the building of a gateway with portcullis at the north-east end of the +town. +</P> + +<P> +These fortifications were rendered necessary by the <I>inning</I> of the +shallows which separated Rye from the mainland, the sea having set to +work, with the true ironic touch, depositing shingle where salt water +was essential, and irrupting where it was most unwelcome. And, sure +enough, as the one enemy did its worst, filling in the harbour and +making access to the little hill more easy, so the other enemy took +advantage of the facilities offered, and the raids of the French +gradually became more frequent and more severe. In the fourteenth +century things were parlous for the island town. When it was not the +turn of Winchelsea, Rye suffered, and vice versa. They set upon the +town in 1337 with no great success, but in 1360 they spoiled both +Hastings and Rye. Immediately after the death of Edward they came +again, and "within five hours brought it wholly into ashes, with the +church that was there of a wonderful beauty, conveying away four of the +richest of the towne and slaying sixty-six; left not above eight in the +towne. Forty-two hogsheads of wine they carried thence to the ships +with the rest of their booty, and left the towne desolate." +</P> + +<P> +In 1378 the men of the Cinque Ports took some sort of revenge, +according to the following interesting account in Fuller's <I>Worthies of +England</I>: "May never French land on this shore, to the losse of the +English! But if so sad an accident should happen, send them our +Sussexians no worse success than their ancestors of Rye and Winchelsey +had, 1378, in the reign of Richard the Second, when they embarked for +Normandy: for in the night they entered a town called Peter's Port, +took all such prisoners who were able to pay ransome, and safely +returned home without losse, and with much rich spoil; and amongst the +rest they took out of the steeple the bells, and brought them into +England, bells which the French had taken formerly from these towns, +and which did afterwards ring the more merrily, restored to their +proper place, with addition of much wealth to pay for the cost of their +recovery." But their triumph was short-lived, for in 1380 the place +was again burned, despite the wall. Comparative quiet then reigned +till 1448, when the last and most terrible invasion occurred. Then, +according to Jeake, Rye was entirely burned, with the exception of the +Landgate, the walls of the parish church, Ypres Tower, and the +so-called Chapel of the Carmelite Friars in Watchbell Street. The town +was devastated to such an extent that it was unable to furnish its +quota of ships to the navy. +</P> + +<P> +Then the sea encroached once more, and, washing away the cliffs on the +east, destroyed the walls built under commission of Richard the First; +and such was the condition of the town that Chaucer could write: +</P> + +<P CLASS="poem"> +"As many another town is payrid and y-lassid<BR> +Within these few years, as we mow se at eye<BR> +Lo, Sirs, here fast by Wynchelse and Ry".<BR> +</P> + +<BR> + +<P> +Folks discovered that by skilful artificial drainage they could assist +the inning, and so obtain an additional field at the extremity of their +rightly-acquired land. In 1724 we have Defoe writing: "By digging +Ditches, and making Drains there are now Fields and Meadows where +antiently was nothing but Water. By this means Ships of but a middle +Size cannot come to any convenient distance near the Town, whereas +formerly the largest Vessels, and even whole Fleets together could +anchor just by the Rocks on which the Town stands." +</P> + +<P> +But still, despite its struggles—perhaps by reason of them—Rye has +always managed to carry on. It has had its systole and diastole of +success; but, unlike Winchelsea, it has never given up the fight. +Periods there have been when every hand has seemed against it; but +times there have been too—the Commonwealth, for instance—when the +town has enjoyed a compensating prosperity. It has fought for its +existence, and it has survived; and there are no more apt words +concerning the two Antient Towns than those of Coventry Patmore: +"Winchelsea is a town in a trance, a sunny dream of centuries ago, but +Rye is a bit of the Old World living on in happy ignorance of the New". +</P> + +<P> +At Winchelsea the church is the centre of everything: you cannot move a +hundred yards without coming into sight of it. But you might walk +round and about Rye all day and not notice it. Shut away at the top of +the hill, behind and away from all the everyday business of life, in +its isolation it somewhat resembles a cathedral. But there the +resemblance stops: there is no cathedral atmosphere. True, there is a +quiet in the square, but it is not the cold ghostly hush of the close +or the cloister. Instead, all is sunlight and warmth. The walls are +grey, the buttresses are grey, the tombs are grey, but it is a warm +familiar colour, at one with the red of the lichen-grown roofs, in full +harmony with the surrounding mosaic of colour. +</P> + +<HR> + +<BR> + +<A NAME="img-056"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-056.jpg" ALT="RYE CHURCH" BORDER="0" WIDTH="512" HEIGHT="831"> +<H4 CLASS="h4center" STYLE="width: 512px"> +RYE CHURCH +</H4> +</CENTER> + +<P CLASS="caption"> +Rye church stands at the top of the hill, behind and away from all the +everyday business of life. Its walls are grey, but it is a warm +familiar colour, at one with the red of the lichen-covered roofs. +</P> + +<P CLASS="caption"> +(<I>See page 54</I>) +</P> + +<BR> + +<HR> + +<P> +Just below the churchyard, in the south-east corner, the Ypres (or, as +it is called locally, the Wipers) Tower still stands, a squat, +heavy-looking building, not altogether beautiful; and at the other end +of the town the Landgate, the sole survivor of the town's five portals. +Between these two, dotted about here and there in the winding, +cobble-stoned streets, are buildings of great beauty, some +unfortunately modernized on the outside. One is the old rubble-stone +building in Watchbell Street, commonly known as the Carmelite Friary. +It is an interesting specimen of a small mediæval hall with chambers +below, but its association with the order is now pretty generally +recognized as a mistake. Steep little Mermaid Street—perhaps the most +beautiful of all the quaint turnings—has two notable buildings, the +Old Hospital and the Mermaid Inn. The Hospital is a fine timbered +structure with huge gables. The Inn is a Tudor building, surrounding a +tiny court. Little is to be seen from the road; but inside it is a +charming old-world place, with latticed windows and massive oak beams, +fine panelling and great fireplaces. In the stately red house at the +head of the street Mr. Henry James for many years found inspiration for +his wonderful studies of modern temperaments,—about as remote as +possible from the atmosphere of the quaint little grass-grown street. +Perhaps the most interesting of all the buildings is the Old Flushing +Inn. It possesses some fine oakwork, but the greatest attraction is +the quaint mural painting in imitation of tapestry, covering the whole +of one wall, and dating from 1574. In olden days the place was a +popular rendezvous among gentlemen of the "free trade", for in the rear +it possessed a courtyard which extended right to the edge of the +cliff—at that point practically vertical and about sixty feet +high—and it was a simple matter to beach a boat just below. +</P> + +<P> +In High Street, almost facing the turning which leads up to the church, +is a dark red-brick building of the seventeenth century: this is +Pocock's Grammar School, which readers of Thackeray will remember as +the place where Denis Duval was sent to be educated. A little farther +along we come to Conduit Hill, in which is situate the Ancient +Monastery of the Austin Friars—a fair building, possessing that rare +thing, flamboyant tracery. If the ghosts of the little brothers of +bygone days ever return to their former haunts, they must be deeply +grieved or intensely amused, for the building has been everything from +a malt-house to a Salvation Army barracks. +</P> + +<P> +As we leave the town a flood of questions surges into the brain, +perhaps never to be answered. Why is it there is such an attraction +about Rye? Why will men and women travel half across the world to see +these crooked streets once more? Why should the very mention of the +name conjure up such haunting memories of the past? There is very +little in the place that is actually old—a gateway, one or two houses, +a small tower, a church—yet the impression is one of remotest +antiquity. +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR> + +<A NAME="chap07"></A> + +<H3 ALIGN="center"> +BODIAM +</H3> + +<P> +When in 1377, following on other successful raids, the French descended +on Rye and sacked and fired the town, it became evident that Hastings +could no longer afford sufficient protection to that stretch of the +coast, or to the important river valley leading thence inwards; and the +necessity for another stronghold was immediately realized. Thus did +Bodiam come into existence. +</P> + +<P> +It so happened that, at the moment when the defenceless condition of +the Rother became apparent, there had come into the district a knight +well skilled in all the military arts, one Edward Dalyngrigge, a member +of an old Sussex family and brother to the sheriff of the county. +Dalyngrigge had spent many years in France, and taken part in numerous +expeditions, some of them scarcely creditable. Following a fierce but +capable warrior, one ready for almost any emergency, he had learned not +only the art of the soldier but also the science of the castellan. +Now, Sir Edward was married to Elizabeth Wardeux, the heiress of the +manor of Bodiam, and therefore possessed of the old moated manor-house +some distance from the river. Consequently, in virtue of the necessity +of the times, Sir Edward had little difficulty in extracting the +licence to build a suitable castle. +</P> + +<HR> + +<BR> + +<A NAME="img-060"></A> +<CENTER> +<IMG CLASS="imgcenter" SRC="images/img-060.jpg" ALT="BODIAM CASTLE" BORDER="0" WIDTH="516" HEIGHT="817"> +<H4 CLASS="h4center" STYLE="width: 516px"> +BODIAM CASTLE +</H4> +</CENTER> + +<P CLASS="caption"> +The castle is a ruin—a mere empty shell—but outwardly its towers and +walls rise sheer from the lily-covered waters of the moat in a fine +state of preservation. +</P> + +<P CLASS="caption2"> +(<I>See page 59</I>) +</P> + +<BR> + +<HR> + +<P> +The site selected was the left bank of the Rother, at a spot some +thirty feet above the level of the water. Partly by excavation, partly +by damming up, a great reservoir was constructed, 525 feet from north +to south and 330 feet from east to west; and in the centre an island +was left, a little over an acre in extent. On this island the castle +was erected; and the basin was flooded from a little stream which the +premeditating builder had previously diverted and dammed. Northward +the ground rose pretty steeply from the moat, a circumstance which +seems to detract somewhat from the strength of the castle, till we +remember that the planning and building were done in the days before +artillery had become the deciding factor in warfare. Southwards the +ground fell away to the river, and because of this much doubt has been +cast on the efficacy of the stronghold. It has been pointed out +frequently that an investing army would have had little difficulty in +piercing the bank of the basin; but there was no mediæval siege whereby +its strength might have been tested. +</P> + +<P> +The castle was built in the form of a parallelogram, after the French +model, with four strong curtain walls protected at the angles by boldly +projecting round towers, 54 feet high and 29 in diameter. Three of the +curtain walls had intermediate square towers, while the fourth, that on +the northern side, had a double tower flanking the great gateway. +Between this deep and well-protected portal and the land stood an +octagonal platform on which was built an advance work, or barbican, the +intervening spaces being bridged by drawbridges. Thus was the way into +the castle strongly held by a succession of defences. +</P> + +<P> +As we approach the castle now from any side, it is difficult to realize +that it is a ruin—a mere empty shell. Outwardly its towers and walls +rise sheer from the lily-covered waters of the moat in a fine state of +preservation: curtain walls, round towers, square towers, +battlements,—all are there as in the days that were. True, the +drawbridges are gone, and of the barbican only a fragment remains; but +of the great donjon itself nothing appears to be missing until—until +we cross the causeway where once the drawbridge rose and fell, and so +come to the interior. Then do we realize the antiquity of the place; +for everything has crumbled to dust, leaving just here and there a +suggestion of what has been—a window, a buttress, a fireplace. Lines +from Lord Thurlow's sonnet come to mind: +</P> + +<P CLASS="poem"> +<SPAN STYLE="margin-left: 6em">"Thou hast had thy prime,</SPAN><BR> +And thy full vigour, and the eating harms<BR> +Of age have robb'd thee of thy warlike charms,<BR> +And placed thee here, an image in my rhyme;<BR> +The owl now haunts thee, and oblivion's plant,<BR> +The creeping ivy, has o'er-veil'd thy towers;<BR> +And Rother looking up with eye askant,<BR> +Recalling to his mind thy brighter hours,<BR> +Laments the time, when fair and elegant<BR> +Beauty first laugh'd from out thy joyous bowers".<BR> +</P> + +<BR> + +<P> +From the ruined fragments we mentally reconstruct the scene of the +interior, the single courtyard in the centre, the two-story buildings +all around with the chapel going up through both stories, and we note +with astonishment the comparative convenience and comfort of the +arrangements of the compact little fortalice. +</P> + +<P> +Certainly Bodiam (or Bojum, as it is pronounced locally) is the most +picturesque castle in the south, many say in the whole, of England. +Nestling in the little valley, surrounded by luxuriant greenery, it has +not the impressive grandeur of the stronghold flaunting its strength at +the head of some precipitous cliff, or bidding defiance to the hungry +seas, but it has a beauty more at one with the spirit of Sussex and the +south. +</P> + +<P> +And yet, Bodiam is a place of inviolate mystery. You can fall in love +with its unique situation, with its delightful lily-covered, +bird-haunted setting; you can be impressed by its note of artistic +completeness; but always there is something of loneliness and horror +about the place. Its walls are grey, but not with the grey of other +castles. It is a cold, pitiless grey, no matter how the sun shine, no +matter how the water throw up again the quivering light. There is a +shudder in the air on the blithest summer day. Perhaps it is that +places, no less than men, gradually take upon them a personality. If +that is so, then surely Bodiam has taken the personality of its old +founder, Dalyngrigge, a bleak enough man, if records speak truly, a man +dark in deed and light of word. +</P> + +<P> +At Bodiam we leave this Enchanted Garden; and as we go we begin to +wonder that a place so rich in memories and in charm has no +representative poet, or, indeed, school of poets. Sussex in general +seems to have been sadly neglected by our singers. Kipling has +probably sung most in her praises; but even for Kipling the great chalk +downs have always been Sussex. And most of our other poets—Habberton +Lulham, Arthur F. Bell, Rosamund Watson, Wilfred Scawen Blunt—have +followed in his steps. Only occasionally has one ventured down into +the marshlands and the low rolling hills and the little river valleys +in quest of beauty. And yet beauty indescribable is here for the +seeking. Probably the poet who knows us best is Ford Maddox Hueffer, +whose volume, <I>The Cinque Ports</I>, contains some magnificent +word-pictures of these happy little hills and dales, and whose novel, +<I>The 'Half Moon'</I>, gives such a faithful picture of Rye of ancient +days. The following fragment from one of his poems gives the marsh in +all its beauty: +</P> + +<P CLASS="poem"> +"Up here, where the air's very clear,<BR> +And the hills slope away nigh down to the bay,<BR> +It is very like Heaven....<BR> +</P> + +<P CLASS="poem"> +"For the sea's wine-purple and lies half asleep<BR> +In the sickle of the shore and, serene in the west,<BR> +Lion-like purple and brooding in the even,<BR> +Low hills lure the sun to rest.<BR> +</P> + +<P CLASS="poem"> +"Very like Heaven.... For the vast marsh dozes,<BR> +And waving plough-lands and willowy closes<BR> +Creep and creep up the soft south steep;<BR> +In the pallid North the grey and ghostly downs do fold away.<BR> +And, spinning spider-threadlets down the sea, the sea-lights dance,<BR> +And shake out a wavering radiance...."<BR> +</P> + +<BR> + +<P> +We close with a short passage from the volume on the Cinque Ports. It +was written concerning the old military canal at Winchelsea, but in its +brooding spirit of contentment it applies but little less to the whole +of this wonderful area. "Nowhere is one so absolutely alone; but +nowhere do inanimate things—the water plants and the lichens on the +stiles—afford so much company. It must not be hurried through, or it +is a dull, flat stretch. But linger and saunter through it, and you +are caught by the heels in a moment. You will catch a malady of +tranquillity—a kind of idle fever that will fall on you in distant +places for years after. And one must needs be the better, in times of +storm and stress, for that restful remembrance." +</P> + +<BR><BR><BR><BR> + + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg's Hastings and Neighbourhood, by Walter Higgins + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HASTINGS AND NEIGHBOURHOOD *** + +***** This file should be named 33042-h.htm or 33042-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/3/3/0/4/33042/ + +Produced by Al Haines + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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