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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Legends of the Skyline Drive and the Great
+Valley of Virginia, by Carrie Hunter Willis and Etta Belle Walker
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Legends of the Skyline Drive and the Great Valley of Virginia
+
+Author: Carrie Hunter Willis
+        Etta Belle Walker
+
+Release Date: June 29, 2010 [EBook #33018]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LEGENDS OF THE SKYLINE DRIVE ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Mark C. Orton, Louise Pattison and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+                   LEGENDS
+
+                   of the
+
+                SKYLINE DRIVE
+
+                   and the
+
+          Great Valley of Virginia
+
+
+                     BY
+            CARRIE HUNTER WILLIS
+                     AND
+              ETTA BELLE WALKER
+
+
+                RICHMOND, VA.:
+
+        THE DIETZ PRESS, _Publishers_
+
+                    1940
+
+
+
+
+              COPYRIGHT, 1940
+
+                     BY
+
+            CARRIE HUNTER WILLIS
+
+                    AND
+
+              ETTA BELLE WALKER
+
+  _Printed in the United States of America_
+
+
+
+
+Foreword
+
+
+Tucked away among the hills and valleys in and near the Shenandoah
+National Park and the Great Valley of Virginia are stories of the
+beginnings of the white man's life beyond the comparative ease of early
+Tidewater Virginia. These stories are true ones and they depict
+something of the courage and hardihood of the early Virginia pioneer.
+Perhaps in reading of their lives we may catch something of the majesty
+and charm of their surroundings which were reflected to a marked degree
+in their way of living. Surely they must often have said, "I will look
+unto the hills from whence cometh my strength" or how else may we
+account for the developments which came as the result of their constant
+struggle for survival?
+
+Stories of colonial Virginia on the eastern seaboard are numerous and
+usually exciting but they are quite different from the tales beyond the
+Piedmont. A combination of them may enable us to know Virginia as a
+whole in a more appreciative way.
+
+Long before the Knights of the Golden Horseshoe ever set foot in the
+wilds of Virginia, intrepid explorers had passed through various parts
+of the Valley country.
+
+In 1654--more than sixty years before the Governor's expedition--Colonel
+Abraham Wood received permission to explore beyond the mountains. His
+purpose was to establish trade relations with the Indians. His journey
+carried him through the lower Blue Ridge, crossing the range near the
+Virginia-North Carolina line.
+
+Reference is made elsewhere of the explorations conducted by the
+one-time monk, John Lederer, whose journal of the trip was first
+translated from German and published in London in 1672.
+
+Let us plainly understand however that each of these trips was of a
+migratory nature; not a thought was entertained by any of the
+participants of remaining in the Virginia mountains. Any white man found
+in these sections at this time was there because of good hunting
+grounds, hopes of good trading, the zeal of a missionary spirit or love
+of adventure and exploration.
+
+The earliest settlers in the Valley in most part came either from
+Maryland or Pennsylvania. They came in search of rich, cheap land or for
+economic reasons or in the hope of establishing greater freedom for
+themselves and their children.
+
+Two nationalities invaded the Great Valley almost simultaneously: the
+Germans and Scotch-Irish--both fine, sturdy, healthy and thrifty stock
+which is reflected in marked degree among the present inhabitants of the
+region. Their real interest in the new settlements may truthfully be
+said to have begun about 1730 when land grants were obtained. About two
+years later the actual move into the country and the house building
+commenced in earnest.
+
+The German settlers located chiefly along the territory extending from
+Winchester to Staunton. The Scotch-Irish on the other hand selected
+Staunton and the valley south of the town for their claims. No nice
+distinction can be made so easily, for we shall find the two groups
+interspersed all along the entire length of the Valley. But generally
+speaking their domains may be defined thus.
+
+So much fighting during the wars of our country could not have been
+fought in this section of the State without leaving in its wake the
+stories of chivalry, courage and accomplishment, a few of which are
+included.
+
+It is our desire that the trips along the Skyline Drive and in the Great
+Valley country may be enriched and the imagination stirred because of
+the accounts included in this small book.
+
+
+
+
+Table of Contents
+
+
+                                                                    PAGE
+
+    KNIGHTS OF THE GOLDEN HORSESHOE                                    1
+
+      Progress to the Mines                                            2
+
+    ADAM MILLER AND HIS NEIGHBORS                                      5
+
+    JOIST HITE, THE PIONEER                                            7
+
+    GERMAN NEIGHBORS, Quakers                                          9
+
+      Dunkards                                                        11
+
+    THE SCOTCH-IRISH IN THE VALLEY                                    12
+
+    INDIANS                                                           15
+
+    INDIAN TALES                                                      18
+
+    THE MOORE MASSACRE                                                20
+
+    WASHINGTON'S BOYHOOD FRIEND--LORD FAIRFAX                         24
+
+    WINCHESTER--THE FRONTIER TOWN OF THE VALLEY                       26
+
+    THE VALLEY PIKE                                                   31
+
+    BERRYVILLE                                                        33
+
+    FRONT ROYAL                                                       34
+
+    FLINT HILL                                                        36
+
+    THE SKYLINE DRIVE                                                 37
+
+    STRASBURG                                                         40
+
+    ORKNEY SPRINGS                                                    42
+
+    STEPHENS CITY                                                     42
+
+    MIDDLETOWN                                                        43
+
+    THE STORY TELLER OF THE VALLEY--SAMUEL KERCHEVAL
+
+      Pioneer Life                                                    44
+
+    WOODSTOCK                                                         53
+
+      The Lincoln Family                                              55
+
+    NEW MARKET                                                        56
+
+      Endless Caverns                                                 57
+
+    LURAY                                                             59
+
+    STONEWALL JACKSON'S VALLEY CAMPAIGN                               61
+
+    BELLE BOYD, THE SPY                                               67
+
+    HARRISONBURG                                                      72
+
+      Massanutten Caverns                                             73
+
+      Grand Caverns                                                   73
+
+      Massanetta Springs                                              75
+
+    STAUNTON                                                          75
+
+    WAYNESBORO AND AFTON                                              79
+
+    NATURAL BRIDGE                                                    81
+
+    ROCKBRIDGE                                                        84
+
+      The First Academy in the Valley                                 86
+
+    VALLEY INVENTIONS                                                 87
+
+    WASHINGTON COLLEGE                                                88
+
+    LEXINGTON                                                         89
+
+    THE VIRGINIA MILITARY INSTITUTE                                   92
+
+    CULPEPER MINUTE MEN                                               94
+
+    BLIND PREACHER                                                    95
+
+    HEBRON CHURCH                                                     96
+
+    HOOVER'S CAMP ON THE RAPIDAN RIVER                                97
+
+    CHARLOTTESVILLE AND ALBEMARLE COUNTY                              98
+
+      Jack Jouett's Ride                                             104
+
+      Lewis and Clark Expedition                                     105
+
+    FREDERICKSBURG                                                   106
+
+    KENMORE--1752                                                    111
+
+    THE MARY WASHINGTON HOUSE                                        115
+
+    RISING SUN TAVERN                                                117
+
+    ROANOKE                                                          121
+
+    DRAPER'S MEADOW                                                  124
+
+    WASHINGTON COUNTY                                                127
+
+    HUNGRY MOTHER STATE PARK                                         129
+
+    WHITE TOP                                                        129
+
+
+
+
+List of Illustrations
+
+                                                                    PAGE
+
+    George Washington's Headquarters, Winchester, Virginia            27
+
+    View Along the Skyline Drive in the Shenandoah National Park      38
+
+    "The Cypress Garden", a Scene in Endless Caverns                  57
+
+    "The Manse", Woodrow Wilson's Birthplace, Staunton, Virginia      76
+
+    Woodrow Wilson's Bed, Staunton, Virginia                          78
+
+    Natural Bridge                                                    81
+
+    Washington and Lee University, Lexington, Virginia                90
+
+    Virginia Military Institute                                       92
+
+    "Monticello", near Charlottesville, Virginia                      99
+
+    Rotunda of University of Virginia                                102
+
+    "Kenmore", the Home of Fielding Lewis and Betty Washington
+        Lewis, Fredericksburg, Virginia                              107
+
+    James Monroe's Law Office                                        109
+
+    "The Mary Washington House", Fredericksburg, Virginia            116
+
+    "Rising Sun Tavern", Fredericksburg, Virginia                    118
+
+    Scenic Highway in Southwest Virginia                             126
+
+    Hungry Mother State Park                                         130
+
+[Blank Page]
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+Knights of The Golden Horseshoe
+
+
+Alexander Spotswood was the first Virginia Governor to become interested
+in the glowing accounts which the hunters and trappers brought back from
+the hill sections of the colony. He determined to see for himself those
+distant blue ridges.
+
+And while historians have not told us who guided him to the upper or
+western boundary of what was then Essex County, we are told that he
+became enthusiastic over the rich iron ore which he found in the
+peninsula formed by the Rapidan River. He decided to build iron furnaces
+at a point near the river. Later he had his agent, Baron de Graffenreid,
+go to Germany and bring master mechanics and their families to Virginia.
+
+The first German colony came in 1714 to Virginia and journeyed to
+Germanna, as they called their new home on the bank of the Rapidan
+River. They were made up of twelve families and numbered forty-two
+people in all, men, women and children.
+
+The Virginia Council passed an act which provided protection for the
+Germans. A fort was built for them, ammunition and two cannon were sent
+and an order was given for a road to be made to the settlement.
+
+These men and women were brave, loyal and deeply religious. They
+belonged to the German Reformed Church, which was a branch of the
+Presbyterian family of churches. Here they organized the first
+congregation of that faith in America and here they built their church.
+They had come from Westphalia, in Germany, and of course had brought
+their own customs and manners, which are not entirely gone even in our
+modern Virginia. Later, as we shall see, many of this first colony left
+Germanna and settled on Licking Run near Warrenton.
+
+In 1717 came a second German colony to Germanna. They too were brave,
+loyal, and devout; but were different from the first, being Lutherans
+and representing twenty families from Pennsylvania.
+
+Two years later, the third colony of Germans came to Germanna and from
+there they settled in Orange and Madison counties.
+
+If Governor Spotswood earned the title of "Tubal Cain of America", it
+was because these Germans were industrious, thrifty and honest.
+
+The Governor liked the neighborhood so well that he had a palace built
+for his family. There was a terraced garden, which one may trace in the
+ruins found there today. A courthouse was built there, for a new county
+had been cut from Essex and was called Spotsylvania, in the Governor's
+honor. Nearby was a bubbling fountain spring at which tourists stop
+today to quench their thirst. This has been marked by the Colonial Dames
+and over it there is a hand-wrought iron standard, giving the legend of
+the spring.
+
+In 1732, Colonel William Byrd of Westover visited Governor Spotswood at
+Germanna. He was one of the Commissioners who ran the boundary line
+between Virginia and North Carolina. He held many positions of honor and
+trust in the colony. His writings give an intimate picture of Governor
+Spotswood's settlement:
+
+     _Progress to the Mines._
+
+     "Here I arrived about three o'clock, and found only Mrs.
+     Spotswood at home, who received her old acquaintance with many
+     gracious smiles. I was carried into a room elegantly set off
+     with pier glasses, the largest of which came soon to an odd
+     misfortune. Amongst other favorite animals to cheer this lady's
+     solitude, a brace of deer ran familiarly about the house, and
+     one of them came to stare at me as a stranger. But unluckily
+     spying his own figure in the glass, he made a spring over the
+     tea-table that stood under it, and shattered the glass to
+     pieces, and falling back upon the tea-table made a terrible
+     fracas among the china. This exploit was so sudden and
+     accompanied with such a noise, that it surprised me and
+     perfectly frightened Mrs. Spotswood. But it was worth all the
+     damage to show the moderation and good humor with which she
+     bore the disaster. In the evening the noble Colonel came home
+     from his mines, who saluted me very civilly, and Mrs.
+     Spotswood's sister, Miss Theky, who had been to meet him _en
+     cavalier_, was kind too, as to bid me welcome.
+
+     "We talked over a legion of old stories, supped about nine, and
+     then prattled with the ladies till it was time to retire. In
+     the meantime, I observed my old friend to be very uxorious and
+     exceedingly fond of his children. This was opposite to the
+     maxims he used to preach before he was married, that I could
+     not forbear rubbing up the memory of them. But he gave a very
+     good natural turn to his change of sentiments, by alleging that
+     whoever brings a poor gentlewoman to so solitary a place, from
+     all her friends and acquaintances, would be very ungrateful not
+     to use her and all that belongs to her with all possible
+     tenderness.
+
+     "We all kept snug in our apartments till nine, except Miss
+     Theky, who was the housewife of the family. At that hour we met
+     over a pot of coffee, which was not quite strong enough to give
+     us the palsy. After breakfast the Colonel and I left the ladies
+     to their domestic affairs, and took a turn in the garden which
+     has nothing but three terraced walks that fall in slopes one
+     below the other.... I let him know that I had come to be
+     instructed by so great a master in the mystery of making iron
+     and that he led the way and was the Tubal Cain of America....
+     He assured me he was not only the first in this country, but
+     the first in North America who had erected a regular furnace,
+     that they ran altogether upon bloomeries in New England and
+     Pennsylvania, till his example had made them attempt greater
+     works.... At night we drank prosperity to all the Colonel's
+     projects in a bowl of rack punch, and then retired to our
+     devotions....
+
+     "I sallied out at the first summons to breakfast, where our
+     conversation with the ladies, like whipped sillibub, was very
+     pretty, but had nothing in it. This it seems was Miss Theky's
+     birthday, upon which I made her my compliments, and wished she
+     might live twice as long a married woman as she had lived a
+     maid. I did not presume to pry into the secret of her age, nor
+     was she forward to disclose it.... She contrived to make this a
+     day of mourning for having nothing better at present to set her
+     affections upon."
+
+It was really from Germanna that the Great Expedition to the Mountains
+began. Of course we know that Williamsburg was the scene of great
+excitement when the Governor and some of his staff gathered for the
+first start. The party consisted of the Governor, Fontaine, whose diary
+gives us accounts of the journey, Beverley, the historian of Virginia in
+1703, Colonel Robertson, Austin Smith, Dr. Robinson, Messrs. Talor,
+Brooke and Mason and Captains Smith and Clouder. Others were gentlemen,
+servants and guides. All were delayed when an old trapper told them that
+their horses' feet would be ruined if not shod. In the sandy soil of
+eastern Virginia it was not necessary to shoe one's horse, but the
+rocks, as one travelled inland, would ruin the horse's feet. The party
+made the best of the long wait by drinking the health of the King,
+toasts to the maids left behind and in other farewells.
+
+The party, after five days, reached Germanna and it is from Fontaine's
+journal that we are told of the details of the trip. He relates the
+hardships; some, including the writer, had fevers and chills and drank
+Jesuits' bark tea. Their beds, made of boughs, were not soft enough and
+the men slept badly and were sore the next day after camping out in the
+wilderness. They made about six miles a day. Their food was bear's meat,
+venison, and wild game, which they roasted on long wooden forks over
+glowing coals. And each time they ate, they also drank the King's
+health, not forgetting any of his children in their toasts. Fontaine
+writes--
+
+     "We saw when we were over the mountain the footing of elks and
+     buffaloes, and their beds. We saw a vine which bore a sort of
+     wild cucumber and a shrub with fruit like unto a currant. We
+     ate very good wild grapes.... We crossed a river which we
+     called the Euphrates. It is very deep, the main course of the
+     water is north, it is four score yards wide in the narrowest
+     part.... I got some grasshoppers and fished ... we catched a
+     dish of fish, some perch and a fish called Chub. The others
+     went ahunting and killed deer and turkeys.... I engraved my
+     name on a tree by the river's side and the Governor buried a
+     bottle with a paper inside, on which he writ that he took
+     possession of this place in the name of King George the First
+     of England....
+
+     "We had a good dinner, and after it we got the men together and
+     loaded all their arms and we drank the King's health in
+     champagne and fired a volley, and the Princess's health in
+     Burgundy and fired a volley, and all the rest of the Royal
+     family in claret and a volley. We drank the Governor's health
+     and fired a volley.
+
+     "We had several sorts of liquors, viz Virginian red wine and
+     white Irish usquebaugh, brandy, shrub, two sorts of rum,
+     champagne, canary, cherry punch water and cider."
+
+It was thirty-six days after leaving Williamsburg that the party finally
+reached the mountain and scaled Swift Run Gap and for the first time a
+group of Englishmen looked down into the fertile valley beyond.
+
+The Governor was a romantic person, as well as practical, so he wanted
+to have something tangible by which all of his party might remember
+their thrilling trip. He asked some of his men what they thought of the
+idea and someone suggested, no doubt in fun, that they call themselves
+the "Knights of the Golden Horseshoe".
+
+Anyway, historians relate that when he returned to Williamsburg, he
+promptly wrote a letter to His Majesty and told him of the wonderful
+country "beyond the mountains". He also asked for a grant for the Order
+of the Knights of the Golden Horseshoe. In due time a proclamation
+arrived from England creating The Order of the Golden Horseshoe and also
+fifty tiny golden horseshoes inscribed in Latin "_Sic jurat transcerde
+mantes_". There was a seal and a signature and the title of Knight was
+conferred upon the Governor.
+
+The King also had his own sense of humor and included with all the rest,
+the bill for the golden horseshoes! And we are told the sporting
+Governor paid for them out of his own pocket without any regrets.
+
+Let us start our journey from this historic spot and drive along the
+recently built Skyline Drive. As we go we may look down upon the first
+settlers' homes, around which are built the thrifty towns of today.
+
+
+
+
+Adam Miller and His Neighbors
+
+
+Among the earliest settlers in the valley were young Germans, Adam
+Mueller and his wife and his sister. Adam, as was his family, was born
+in Germany. Like many others, he had left because of religious
+persecution, devastating wars and social unrest. His first home in the
+new country was in Lancaster, Pennsylvania.
+
+Adam Miller (as his name was soon after spelled) journeyed to
+Williamsburg, Virginia. There, he told someone, he wanted to make his
+home. It was not long after the Knights of the Golden Horseshoe had
+returned with their glowing accounts of the land beyond the mountains.
+Adam listened with deep interest to the descriptions of the Valley where
+a native grass grew on which buffalo fattened, where game lived all year
+and where a forest fringed the fertile valleys. He decided to go with
+some hunters and he found the kind of land which he wanted. Before he
+returned to Lancaster he had built a rude log cabin. He returned home by
+way of Williamsburg, and soon his wife and sister were getting ready to
+set forth. Many of his German neighbors were interested also, and
+historians claim he was the first German to build near Massanutten
+Mountain.
+
+His neighbors were Abram Strickler, Mathias Selser, Phillip Long, Paul
+Long, Michael Rinehart, and Jonathan Rood. Some give the date of this
+settlement as early as 1726. Adam Miller took out his naturalization
+papers a few years later and today, the visitor may read the quaint
+document hanging on the walls of the Miller home, near Elkton, Virginia.
+
+His log cabin was soon outgrown. He was a good farmer and his wife and
+sister helped him. His crops were larger each year. Besides, Adam was a
+business man. He secured a large land grant and he soon was selling off
+farms to other Germans who came from Pennsylvania and from Germany.
+
+The Millers built a larger home and they bought some good sturdy
+furniture to replace the crude tables and chairs which were home-made.
+They took pleasure in getting the home all ready before they moved into
+it. They had even spread the beds with the new hand-woven coverlets
+which his wife and sister had made during the long winter nights. The
+next night they would sleep in their new home. But during the night, a
+fire broke out--no one ever knew its origin--and everything was
+destroyed before the family woke up!
+
+The Millers were undaunted, so they built again. We are told what good
+neighbors there were in those days. The men took their own axes and cut
+down the trees. They dressed the lumber, sawed the timbers by careful
+measurements, laid foundations, and built chimneys. It did not take so
+long to build a house. The visitor today will see a big white house on
+the road between Luray and Elkton, almost beneath the shadow of old
+Massanutten Mountain. He will see the marker which tells him that this
+house was built by the Miller family. Inside, the visitor will see
+priceless early American furniture. He will see rosewood and later
+Empire furniture, too, as other generations added to their heritage. But
+when one goes into the log cabin kitchen he will stand in reverence
+before a collection of early Dutch tables, chairs, platters, plates of
+Delft and pewter, spoons of the same ware. There is a huge corner
+cupboard which everyone would like to have for his own. This house no
+longer has a direct descendant of Adam and his good wife to occupy it,
+for the last one of his line recently died.
+
+Adam Miller was not only a good neighbor to his German friends but we
+are told they did not have much trouble with the Indians during the
+first years he lived in the Valley. However, he was a brave fighter
+during the Indian Wars and his record is given in _Henning's Statutes_.
+He lived through most of the Revolutionary War and no doubt longed to
+fight in behalf of the country which had given him the opportunity to
+develop it.
+
+     "On Sunday evening, Dec. 3rd, 1749 a young Franciscan went with
+     us (_Diary of Leonard Schell, a Moravian Missionary_) to show
+     us the way to Mathias Schawb, who immediately on my offer to
+     preach for them, sent messengers to announce my sermon. In a
+     short time a considerable number of people assembled to whom I
+     preached. After the sermon I baptised a child of Holland's. We
+     stayed overnight with Mathias Schawb. His wife told us we were
+     always welcome and we must come to them whenever we came into
+     that district.
+
+     "Toward evening a man from another Dutch settlement, Adam
+     Miller passed. I told him that I would like to come to his
+     house and preach there. He asked if I were sent by God and I
+     answered yes. He said if I were sent by God I should be
+     welcome, but he said there are at present so many kinds of
+     people that often one does not know where they come from. I
+     requested him to notify his neighbors that I would preach which
+     he did.
+
+     "On Dec. 4th we left Schawb's house commending the whole family
+     to God. We travelled through the rain across the South
+     Shenandoah to Adam Miller's house who received us with much
+     love. We stayed over night.
+
+     "On Dec. 5th I preached at Adam Miller's house on 'Whosoever
+     thirsteth let him come to the water and drink.' A number of
+     thirsty souls were present. Especially Adam Miller took in
+     every word and after the sermon declared himself well pleased.
+     In the afternoon we travelled a short distance, staying
+     overnight with a Swiss."
+
+
+
+
+Joist Hite, the Pioneer
+
+
+When Joist Hite arrived in Virginia he and his family were required to
+settle on the land bought from the VanMeters. His purchase was made in
+June 1731. In October of the same year, he and Robert McKay obtained a
+grant from the Colonial Government to have 100,000 acres of land
+surveyed on the west side of the mountain, with the agreement to bring
+in one hundred settlers within two years. During that year, Hite moved
+in and settled on that land, but he got an extension of time for
+bringing in other settlers. By Christmas of 1735 Hite had brought in
+fifty-four families.
+
+All this land was in the County of Spotsylvania and Hite found that he
+and his brothers were too far away from the courts so he became
+interested in getting a new county organized in 1734. This was named
+Orange, in honor of the Duke of Orange. Later on, having acquired more
+land, he found himself again too far removed from a court house. And
+again he applied for a new county. In fact he needed two counties for
+all his lands and ever-increasing settlers. In 1738 Orange County was
+divided into three counties, namely: Orange, Frederick, and Augusta to
+the west of the mountain. With Joist Hite and his wife Anna Maria came
+their daughters, Mary, her husband George Bowman, Elizabeth and her
+husband Paul Froman, Magadelena and her husband Jacob Chrisman, and
+their sons John, Jacob, Isaac, Abraham and Joseph. Hite, we are told,
+allowed his sons-in-law to choose their own homesteads.
+
+His wife, Anna Maria, died in 1738 at Long Meadows and soon he married
+again. We read the following quaint marriage contracts between him and
+his second wife:
+
+     "In the Name of Jesus
+
+     "Whereas, we, two persons, I, Joist Hite and Maria Magadelena,
+     Relict and Widow of Christian Nuschanger, according to God's
+     holy ordinance and the knowledge and consent of our Friends and
+     Children and Relations are going to enter into the holy state
+     of Matrimony. We have made this Nuptial part one with the
+     others. First promise to the aforesaid Maria Magadalena all the
+     Christian Love and Faithfulness. Secondly, as neither of us are
+     a moment secure from death so I promise her Home or Widow Seat
+     so long as she lives and the Heir to whom the said House shall
+     fall shall provide the necessary Diet and Cloathes and if that
+     do not please but that she rather desire to have her
+     commendations in any other place, so shall the foresaid Heir to
+     the House yearly pay her Six Pounds ready money and this is my
+     well considered desire.
+
+                                             "JOIST HITE."
+
+     "And Likewise wife, I Maria Magadalena promise the aforesaid
+     Joist Hite. First of all, Love and Obedience. Secondly, I am
+     designed to bring with me to him some cattle, money, household
+     goods which in agreement with attested witnesses shall be
+     Described and should I die before the said Hite so shall the
+     said Hite have the half thereof and the other half shall be
+     delivered back again to my heirs and this is also my well
+     considered desire. Thirdly and Lastly, whoever of the aforesaid
+     persons shall die first the half of the portion the Woman
+     brings with her shall go back to her heirs."
+
+The following goods were brought by the said Mary Magadelena to Joist
+Hite:
+
+    "1  In ready money, twenty two pounds seventeen Shillings and
+        four pence.
+
+     2  Two mares one colt value of fourteen pounds.
+
+     3  Two drawing steers value three pounds, ten shillings.
+
+     4  Two coarse beds Cloathes in all three pounds, Sixteen
+        Shillings and six pence. And said money is adjudged to be in
+        Virginia Currency the 16th day of November, 1741, also one
+        horse mare, six pounds."
+
+Another neighbor pioneering in the Valley was Jacob Stover who secured
+land grants. History records that he resorted to unusual methods in
+obtaining them. Upon application, it was necessary to convince the
+authorities that the applicant could furnish a sufficient number of
+families to settle the land requested. Stover did not have the required
+number. He took himself to England to petition the King and in order to
+be convincing he gave names to every living thing he possessed--dogs,
+sheep, horses, cows and pigs! After his successful trip which resulted
+in receiving the land grant, he commenced selling small acreages to the
+new-comers. He enriched himself materially, but incurred the wrath of
+his associates.
+
+
+
+
+German Neighbors
+
+QUAKERS
+
+
+Long ago, a shrewd trader from New York, John VanMeter, came into the
+Valley. He made friends with the Delawares and often went with them on
+their hunting trips. Once he even fought on their side against their
+enemies, the Catawbas. While on this visit South, he saw for the first
+time the fertile native grass, which grew "five or six feet high", in
+the Valley. When he returned to New York he told his sons about the rich
+country, far to the South, and advised them to secure some of it. One of
+them, Isaac, took his father's advice and came to Virginia in 1736-7 and
+with a tomahawk cut certain trees, thus making his original claim. This
+was called the "Tomakawk Right".
+
+Isaac and his brother John secured a warrant from Governor Gooch for
+forty thousand acres of land. Later on they sold or transferred part of
+their grant to Joist Hite who was later called the "Old Baron". The
+latter was one of the hardiest pioneers and in 1734 was appointed by the
+Virginia Council to act as magistrate. This gave him authority to settle
+disputes, and to uphold the laws of Virginia as well as to punish all
+offenders.
+
+Hite soon built a stone house on Opequon Creek and his sons and
+daughters grew to be splendid men and women. His sons-in-law, George
+Bowman, Jacob Chrisman and Paul Froman and their families had come with
+him from Pennsylvania. Robert McKay, Robert Green, William Duff, Peter
+Stevens and several other families helped each other select land, build
+homes and a fort.
+
+We are told that the Indians had heard of the kindly relations which
+existed between the Indians and William Penn's colonists. We know he
+paid the Indians for their lands, and records show that many of the
+Germans, especially the Quakers, who settled on Apple Pie Ridge also
+bought lands from the Indians. These settlers were never disturbed by
+the Indians. However, when it came to the lands which we now call the
+Great Valley of Virginia, the Indians were agreed among themselves that
+no one tribe was to possess any of it. The lands were so fertile and so
+much game feasted there, that all should be at peace when in the Valley.
+
+So when the first Quakers came we find these names recorded: the Neills,
+Walkers, Bransons, McKays, Hackneys, Beesoms, Luptons, Barretts, Dillons
+and Fawcetts.
+
+Another Quaker, Ross, obtained a warrant for surveying lands and his
+lines were run along the Opequon, north of Winchester, and up to Apple
+Pie Ridge. Soon many other Quakers from Pennsylvania were moving into
+the Valley to settle on Ross's surveys. By 1738 these deeply religious
+people had built homes and were holding monthly meetings to worship God.
+They had tiny settlements up and down the Valley. They cultivated their
+farms, took little interest in politics, cared very little for worldly
+intercourse and made excellent neighbors. Their manners and dress were
+plain, their furniture only what was necessary, their homes were crude,
+but their barns were large and their cattle were well protected.
+
+They refused to pay taxes during the Revolutionary War or to bear arms.
+Then their neighbors began to ridicule them, calling them cowards, and
+were no longer friendly. Officers came and seized their crops or
+property and sold them to raise funds with which to carry on the War
+against England. The Legislature enacted a law whereby a Quaker either
+had to fight or pay a substitute to fight for him. Their personal
+property was put under the hammer and soon they were reduced to poverty.
+One incident will give us a picture of those far-off days. James Gotharp
+lived with his neighbors on Apple Pie Ridge. One day during the
+Revolutionary War officers came, demanding that he should march away
+with them to join the militia; he refused. The men forced him to come
+along and later he was made a guard. He was placed beside a baggage
+wagon and told to let no man go into the wagon who did not have a
+written order from the commanding officer. Along came an officer who
+started to climb into the vehicle. James called to him and demanded to
+see his order of authority. The officer cursed him and stepped up to
+climb in. James caught him by his legs and pulled his feet off the step.
+This caused the officer to fall, striking his face against the wagon,
+bruising his nose and mouth severely.
+
+The dress of the Quakers is still picturesque and many are to be seen in
+certain sections of the Valley. They wear a broad brimmed hat, a long
+frock coat, generally black. The women wear full skirts, down to their
+ankles, black hose, plain black shoes, with round toes. Their bodices,
+usually black or gray in color, are severely cut, with long plain
+sleeves, with a high neck, relieved by a white collar. They usually wear
+a small cap, made of the same material as their dress.
+
+
+DUNKARDS
+
+Lending an air of uniqueness yet to the Valley towns is that religious
+sect called Dunkards. One sees the women of that denomination, with
+their little black bonnets, on almost any street in any town along the
+Lee Highway.
+
+At one time the sect was called Tunkers. They are an offshoot of the
+Seventh-Day Baptists and had their beginnings in the Valley a little
+after 1732.
+
+When Dr. Thomas Walker passed through the section on his way westward he
+noted in his journal on March 17th, 1750, "The Dunkards are an odd set
+of people, who make it a matter of religion not to Shave their Beards,
+ly on Beds, or eat Flesh though at present, in the last, they
+transgress, being constrained to it, as they say, by the want of a
+sufficiency of Grain and Roots, they having not long been seated here. I
+doubt the plenty and deliciousness of the Venison and Turkeys has
+contributed not a little to this. The unmarried have no private
+Property, but live on a common Stock. They don't baptize either Young or
+Old, they keep their Sabbath on Saturday, and hold that all men shall be
+happy hereafter, but first must pass through punishment according to
+their Sins. They are very hospitable."
+
+The Dunkards built a part of their faith around their disapproval of
+violence, even for self-defense, and their submission to fraud or
+wrongdoing rather than resorting to court trials.
+
+
+
+
+The Scotch-Irish in the Valley
+
+
+Many reasons caused the people of Europe to emigrate during the
+eighteenth century. In Ireland and Scotland an unrest was spreading as
+seen in the story of John Lewis.
+
+He was born in Ireland and was a thrifty gentleman. He fell in love with
+and married Margaret Lynn, daughter of the laird of Loch Lynn, a
+descendant of a powerful Scotch clan. They were very happy with their
+three little sons and soon John Lewis rented more lands from a landlord.
+These lands brought him more and more wealth and the landlord grew
+jealous. He told Lewis that he would not let him continue to cultivate
+them, although the lease was not expired.
+
+One day the landlord came to the Lewis home. He brought many of his
+hirelings and demanded that Lewis vacate the house at once. At the time,
+Lewis' brother was ill and could not help him defend his home.
+Margaret, his wife, and a few servants quickly barred the doors and
+windows and defied the landlord to enter.
+
+The infuriated man began to fire into the house and one shot killed John
+Lewis' brother and one wounded Margaret. John could not stand such an
+outrage any longer, so he rushed out and in the fight which followed, he
+killed the landlord.
+
+His family and neighbors, knowing the influential Irish would not give
+him a fair trial, urged him to flee the country. At last he consented to
+go, but before he did, he carefully wrote down all the details of the
+trouble and sent it to the proper authorities. Then he hastily left the
+country and soon was on his way to Virginia. Lewis went to Williamsburg
+after landing in Virginia. There he met a weaver, Salling, who told him
+some of the wildest stories he had ever heard.
+
+The weaver had known a peddler, named Marlin, who took his pack far into
+the land beyond the mountains and traded his pewter ware, beads,
+compasses and other small articles to the Indians for furs. He told
+Salling such marvelous stories of the Indians and country that the
+weaver asked to let him go on one of his trips with him. This he did,
+and the weaver had plenty of adventures before he finally got back to
+Williamsburg.
+
+The two men reached the Valley and were far beyond the Blue Ridge
+Mountains when the Cherokee Indians, thinking they were spies, took them
+prisoners. Marlin had the good fortune to get away, but Salling was
+carried farther across another mountain range into what is now Kentucky,
+where the Indians went to hunt buffalo. Here the Cherokees were attacked
+by their enemies from Illinois. Salling was again captured and carried
+off to the southwest. He was adopted by an old Indian squaw as her son
+and for some time he lived with her. At last a Spaniard bought him and
+took him as an interpreter to Canada. There he met the French Governor
+who sent him to New York and after six years, he at last reached
+Williamsburg.
+
+You would think Salling after this would have settled down and become a
+weaver again. But life was too tame. When Lewis asked him about the
+lands in the Valley, Salling decided to take him and the Englishman,
+John Mackay, who also wanted to go. Lewis found the country all that
+Salling had promised him and he decided to settle on a creek which bears
+his name today.
+
+He obtained authority to 100,000 acres of land in and near the ground on
+which he built his fort-like house. Before very long, many of his
+friends and neighbors from Ireland were on their way to Virginia to join
+him. Many of them settled in Western Augusta near Fort Lewis. One can
+imagine how happy it made John Lewis to be told that the authorities,
+upon investigation, had granted him a pardon and absolved him from all
+blame in the killing of his landlord before he left Ireland. These
+Scotch-Irish, like their German neighbors, did not have very much
+trouble from the Indians for several years.
+
+Thomas, a son of John Lewis, studied and went to represent his county in
+the House of Burgesses. He was a man of sound judgment and voted for
+Patrick Henry's celebrated resolutions.
+
+Andrew, another son, was a soldier, and made his home in Botetourt
+County. During the Indian Wars, he was made a General but not until he
+had proved his worth in many a battle. He served with George Washington
+on July 4th, 1754 when Fort Necessity was taken, and he was present when
+the articles of the treaty were agreed upon. When Washington was made
+Commander-in-Chief, it is said he asked Lewis to accept the commission
+of brigadier-general. In 1776 he commanded the Virginians when Governor
+Dunnmore was driven from Gwynn's Island and we are told he gave the
+order for attacking the enemy and he himself lighted the match to the
+eighteen-pounder.
+
+General Lewis resigned in 1780 and on his way home was taken ill with
+fever. He died near Bedford, about forty miles from home.
+
+We cannot give all the accounts of William, Andrew and Charles, the
+other sons, but if one would read interesting captures and escapes from
+Indians, he will find that of Charles most exciting.
+
+The sons of John and Margaret Lynn Lewis helped to develop the Valley of
+Virginia and their name is an honored one wherever it is found.
+
+
+
+
+Indians
+
+
+Early historians give us some accounts of the various Indians in
+Virginia. Opechancanough, a warrior chief from the East, went to war
+with Sherando, a member of the Iroquois tribe. Opechancanough in
+crossing the mountains on a foraging expedition was once attacked by
+Sherando who felt his tribe should not have to share its hunting grounds
+with anyone else and resented the invasion. A fierce battle took place,
+with no one victor.
+
+Opechancanough liked the country, so when he returned to his town below
+Williamsburg on the Chickahominy, he left his son and a few warriors to
+watch the hunting grounds which he had found so rich in game. This son,
+Shee-wa-a-nee, with his band soon had to fight the main body of the
+Iroquois and Sherando drove the Chief east of the mountains.
+
+Opechancanough left the lowlands as soon as the news was brought to him
+by runners. He gathered his warriors and set off with a large force. He
+fell upon Sherando and in the fierce battles which followed, he slowly
+drove him from his grounds, and he never returned from his home near the
+Great Lakes.
+
+Sheewa-a-nee was left again in charge of the Hunting Grounds and from
+that day the Shawnees held the lovely Valley until the coming of the
+white settlers.
+
+The settlers kept many of the Indian names for both mountains and
+streams. Opechancanough river was so called for the Great Chief. Legend
+and history tell us that in his later years he became blind and could no
+longer hunt in the lovely Shenandoah Valley.
+
+There were many tribes of Indians in the country and though they did not
+all speak the same language, they did have a common tongue and could
+understand each other.
+
+After 1710 all the lands west of the Blue Ridge Mountains were spoken of
+as Indian Country. The different tribes evidently had understanding
+among themselves about certain boundary lines as individual tribes had
+certain domains. When one violated these rights, there was a war in
+which whole tribes sometimes would be completely wiped out.
+
+The Shawnees, the most powerful and warlike of all, claimed all the
+hunting grounds west of the Blue Ridge and as far west across the
+Alleghany as the Mississippi. They had three large towns in the Valley.
+One was near where Winchester stands today, one on the North River in
+Shenandoah County, and one on the South Branch, near where Moorefield is
+situated. They did allow other tribes to visit them in the Valley on
+condition they pay them tribute in skins or loot.
+
+The next tribe was the Tuscaroras, and they spent most of their time in
+what is now West Virginia.
+
+Another tribe was an offshoot from the Sherandos and were called
+Senedos. They were completely wiped out by the fierce tribe of Cherokees
+from the South, in 1732.
+
+The Catawbas were from South Carolina and had their towns along the
+river which still bears that name.
+
+The Delawares came from Pennsylvania and their villages were along the
+Susquehanna River. The Susquenoughs were a large and friendly tribe on
+the Chesapeake Bay and they were good to the white settlers until their
+enemies, the Cenela tribes, drove them away from Tidewater Virginia.
+Then they went to the upper Potomac River. The Cenelas soon followed
+them to the same region. Another tribe, the Piscataway, lived along the
+headwaters of the Chesapeake Bay.
+
+The Cherokees had their villages on the Tennessee River down in the
+Carolinas and Georgia and Alabama. This tribe was made up of the nations
+of the South, the Muscogluges, the Seminoles, Chickasaws, Choctaws and
+Creeks. At certain times, all these Indians made forages into the
+Valley. Besides these there were those from New York--the Senecas,
+Mohawks, Oneidas, Onondagas and Cayugas. These were called the Five
+Nations and they too claimed the right to hunt in the Valley. These
+Indians believed, we are told, that the Great Spirit had given this
+Valley to all Indians and it is not surprising that they resented the
+coming of the white men who soon began to build homes, barns and fences
+and who claimed the right to shoot the Indians if they came on their
+property.
+
+Then the French about this time began to build forts along the St.
+Lawrence River, the Great Lakes and on down the Mississippi River to the
+Gulf of Mexico. The French made every effort to make friends with the
+Indians and told them the British had no right to take their lands. The
+French said they would protect their rights if the Indians would let
+them. Consequently, they became allies of the French and they began to
+move their villages and towns toward the French lines. They continued to
+keep a part of their homes and to send back bands of hunters to look
+after the hunting grounds beyond the mountains.
+
+If the Indians had not been friendly to those pioneers who dared to
+build homes in the Valley, there would not have been any civilization
+there until a much later date. But as we have seen, many of them came
+from Pennsylvania where William Penn and his colonists had dealt so
+fairly with the Indians. Naturally then, the Indians thought all the
+settlers would be like those. Besides, there were so few of them, they
+did not at first realize that their hunting grounds were being taken
+from them. Consequently, the Delawares and Catawbas in hunting did no
+harm, though they were bitter enemies and the settlers often saw them
+with prisoners from the other tribes.
+
+There were Indian villages on the Potomac and on both branches of the
+Shenandoah. Numerous Indian mounds and graves are still to be seen in
+certain sections of the Valley. Many of these have been opened and
+skeletons found to be in a wonderful state of preservation; utensils,
+pipes, axes, tomahawks, pots and hominy pestles have been found. Their
+pots and utensils were made of a mixture of clay and hard shells, very
+crude as to workmanship but very strong.
+
+After twenty or more years of comparative peace, the Indians suddenly
+left the Valley. In 1753 messengers came from the Western Indians into
+the Valley and invited them to cross the Alleghany mountains. Historians
+claim this was done through the influence of the French and later
+consequences seem to establish the point.
+
+
+
+
+Indian Tales
+
+
+In the year 1774 the Indians began to give serious trouble to the
+settlers on New River. One day several children, those of the Lybrooks'
+and the Snydow's, were playing down by the river. They heard a dog
+barking and upon looking up, saw some Indians approaching. One of the
+boys ran along the edge of the stream trying to make his escape and warn
+the family. But one of the Indians ran ahead and cut off that means of
+escape. He also fired at two boys who were farther out in the stream,
+but fortunately missed them.
+
+While the Indian was aiming at the boys, one of them ran up a rough path
+which had been made by the animals as they went back and forth to drink.
+The boy scrambled up this path and darted by the Indian who tried his
+best to catch him. The Indian gave pursuit and the boy ran until he came
+to a wide gulley about ten feet wide. This the boy easily jumped, but
+the Indian hesitated and threw a buffalo tug which struck his head and
+hurt his back. But he never stopped running until he reached his
+father's home and slipped into the fort where he told the parents of the
+attack.
+
+In the meantime, five of the children who were playing in the river
+climbed into the canoe. The Indians waded out, then swimming to the side
+of it, pulled out the children, killed them, and took their scalps.
+
+An older girl, about thirteen years old, turned over the canoe and swam
+downstream, then jumped to the opposite bank. One of the Indians pursued
+her and she screamed loudly for help. A faithful guard dog came to her
+rescue and as the Indian reached out to grab her, the dog jumped at the
+Indian, tearing the flesh in his thigh, and threw him down. This gave
+the girl time to make her escape.
+
+The Indian struck the dog a blow with his club which finally made him
+let up on the man. The faithful dog went to the canoe and stood guard
+over the five scalped children until their people came to take them away
+for burial. Then the dog refused to leave the spot and began to howl in
+a most pitiful way. He ran into the woods and back again, keeping up his
+cries until one of the men followed him to see what was troubling him.
+There near a tree, he found a little boy of six years, bleeding to death
+from a scalp wound.
+
+In 1760 two Indians were seen hiding around Mill Creek. Mr. Painter, his
+brother John and William Moore went in search of them. After some time
+they came to a newly fallen pine tree which had a very bushy top.
+
+"We had better be careful," Mathias Painter said as they neared the
+fallen tree. "There may be Indians hidden in it." As he spoke, an Indian
+fired from the tree. His bullet grazed John's temple not injuring him.
+Then the other two white men fired at the Indians, striking one of them
+who fell to the ground. They supposed him to be dead, so they pursued
+the one who had fled, leaving his gun and loot behind him.
+
+But the Indian was strong and he outran the two men. Imagine their
+surprise when they returned, and found the Indian gone whom they had
+supposed dead, taking the guns and pack of skins with him. The white men
+picked up his trail and followed him. He hid himself in a sink-hole and
+when the men came near he opened fire on them. He poured out his powder
+on the dry grass in front of him so he could reload his gun more
+quickly. He fired at least thirty times before the two men finally were
+able to kill him.
+
+The Indian who had gotten away met a young woman of the neighborhood who
+was riding horseback. He tore her from the horse and forced her to go
+with him. This happened near where New Market stands today. They
+travelled about twenty miles or more. The Indian became impatient
+because she complained of being so tired. People near Keesleton heard
+cries in the night. The next day when they went to see who had made
+them, they found a pine knot on which blood was still fresh. Nearby,
+they found the poor girl, already dead from the cruel blows and from
+loss of blood.
+
+
+
+
+The Moore Massacre
+
+
+One of the most beautiful sections in Southwestern Virginia is called
+Ab's Valley, in Tazewell County. It was first settled by Captain James
+Moore, one of the Scotch-Irish Presbyterians, who had moved from
+Rockingham County in 1775. There was no river running through the ten
+miles of fertile grounds, but several springs watered the tall grass
+which afforded fine grazing for stock and game. Captain Moore's
+brother-in-law, Mr. Robert Poage, came to live nearby, but they were the
+only settlers in that neighborhood. Their nearest neighbors and a fort
+were over twelve miles away.
+
+In the Spring of 1782 the Indians came to Mr. Poage's house and burst
+through the heavy door without any warning. They did not expect to find
+any men there and when they saw there were three they did not attempt to
+enter the house. The next morning, a man named Richardson, who worked on
+the place, went out to look at some deer skins which he had soaking in a
+nearby pond. The Indians crept up and shot him, taking his scalp.
+
+Two years passed before the Indians attacked the Moore family. James, a
+young boy of fourteen, was sent by Captain Moore to get some horses from
+a field about two miles from his home. He wanted James to go to the mill
+and for this he needed an extra horse.
+
+James had gone only a short distance when three Indians sprang from
+behind a log and caught hold of the boy. He screamed and the Indian laid
+his hand over his mouth and in the Indian language told him to keep
+still.
+
+Black Wolf was the name of the middle-aged Indian. His son was about
+eighteen years old. The other Indian seemed to be one of Black Wolf's
+men. James said he was not so very much frightened after he was told he
+belonged to Black Wolf, though he was one of the sternest looking men he
+had ever seen. Black Wolf gave James some salt and told him to catch
+some of his father's horses for him. James said he would, meaning he
+would catch two, and try to make his escape on one of them. But every
+time he caught a horse the Indians ran up and frightened it so it would
+get away. At last the Indians gathered up their blankets and pots where
+they were hidden in the grass and motioned for James to fall in line.
+The young Indian went first, then the Indian man, then James, followed
+by Black Wolf.
+
+James tried to break off pieces of bushes so his father could tell which
+way he had gone. Black Wolf tapped his shoulder and shook his head. Then
+he tried to leave signs by digging his toes down into the soft earth.
+Again Black Wolf shook his head.
+
+After they had gone a long way, about sundown Black Wolf gave a long
+war-whoop. He did the same the next morning at sunrise. The Indians did
+this to show they had a prisoner. They gave one cry for each prisoner
+taken. If they had taken scalps, the cry would have been a different
+kind.
+
+Before they lay down in the thicket that night, Black Wolf searched
+James to see if he carried a knife. Then he took out a halter and tied
+it fast to James' neck and wrapped the other end around his hand.
+
+The next morning Black Wolf left James with the other two Indians and
+went off to get a Dutch oven which he had taken on one of his other
+expeditions. He gave this to James to carry. He fastened it to James'
+back, but after it rubbed a sore place, James threw it down and refused
+to carry it further. Black Wolf then took off the huge bundle which he
+carried and told James to take it. But he could not even lift it from
+the ground. The Indian then pointed to the Dutch oven, and he found it
+was not so bad to carry after he padded it with leaves.
+
+He found out how long the Indians could go without much food. For three
+whole days they had only water in which poplar bark had been steeped. On
+the fourth day they shot a buffalo. They took a small bit of the meat
+and made a clear broth which they drank but Black Wolf did not let them
+eat any of the meat until the next day, this being their custom after
+fasting.
+
+James said he travelled the whole way barefooted. Of course his feet
+became sore from bruises. He saw many rattlesnakes, but he was not
+allowed to kill them as the Indians considered them to be their friends.
+
+James knew that the Shawnees, of whom Black Wolf was a member, lived far
+to the West. He believed they must be nearing their town after he had
+travelled for twenty days. He told of how they made a raft of logs on
+which they crossed the Ohio and other streams. He learned how to twine
+the long grapevines around the logs to make the raft. He saw how the
+Indians made crude pictures in the banks of the streams to let other
+Indians know they had a prisoner. Black Wolf stopped and drew three
+Indians and a boy.
+
+When the Indians came near their town they painted themselves black.
+They left him white as an omen of safety. Black Wolf traded James to his
+half-sister for a horse. James later found out why he was not taken into
+the town. It was a time of peace and if they had seen the new prisoner,
+they might have made him run the gauntlet. The old squaw was kind to him
+and sometimes left him alone in the wigwam for days at a time. He said
+he prayed to God to keep him safe. We cannot give all his experiences
+with the Indians, but he was finally sold to a French trader from
+Detroit. His name was Baptist Ariome and he liked James, for he looked
+like his own son. He gave the old squaw fifty dollars' worth of silver
+brooches, beads, and other trinkets in Indian money.
+
+James met a man who was a trader from Kentucky, a Mr. Sherlock. This man
+promised to write to James' father and tell him of his capture, of his
+being sold and of his being taken to Detroit. After some time, as we
+shall see, he did get back to Virginia.
+
+But in the meantime, many other things were happening to the Moore
+family. In July 1786, several of the hundred head of horses which
+belonged to Captain Moore came in to the salt block to get salt. Captain
+Moore went out to see them, about two hundred yards from the house.
+Nearby were two of his children, William and Rebecca, who were coming
+from the spring; not far away was another child, Alexander. All at once
+a stream of bullets began to fly. Thirty Indians had hidden themselves
+in the tall grass which almost surrounded the Moore home. William and
+Rebecca were killed instantly. Captain Moore ran to the fence which
+separated the lot from the house and as he climbed over, he was struck
+by several bullets. The Indians then ran up and scalped him.
+
+Two men who lived with the Moores were not far away in a field, reaping
+wheat. When they heard the shooting they ran toward the house but when
+they saw it was surrounded by Indians they made their escape and went
+off to give the alarm to other settlers who were six miles away.
+
+Mrs. Moore and Martha Evans, the girl in the house with her, quickly
+barred the door when they saw the tragedy. They took down the rifles
+which had been fired the night before and gave them to an old
+Englishman, John Simpson, who was ill, to load for them. But the old man
+could not help them, for he had been struck by a bullet as he lay sick.
+
+Martha Evans soon decided to hide under a loose board in the floor of
+the cabin. Polly Moore, a little girl of eight, was holding her baby
+sister who was screaming with fear. Martha told Polly to get under the
+board too, but she decided to stay with the baby.
+
+Then the Indians burst down the door and lunged in. They took Mrs. Moore
+prisoner and four children, John, Polly, Jane, and Peggy. They took
+everything they fancied, then set the house on fire.
+
+Poor Mrs. Moore saw the Indians kill her son because he was sick and
+could not keep up with them. They killed the baby because it cried so
+pitiously. They had to have their hands tied, as had James, and they,
+too, fasted.
+
+When at last they reached the Indian town, Mrs. Moore and Jane were
+killed by torture and death at the stake. Polly was treated more kindly
+and was finally sold to a man near Lake Erie, for a half gallon of rum!
+
+Now fate seems to have taken a hand in bringing Polly and her brother
+James together in that far-away country. While on a hunting expedition
+James heard about the destruction of his family. He was told that his
+sister Polly had been bought by a Mr. Stogwell, a man of bad character.
+It was in the Winter, so James waited until Spring when Mr. Stogwell
+moved into the same section of the country where he was living.
+
+When James went to see them he found Polly very miserable. Her clothing
+was only rags and she had almost lost hope of ever seeing any of her
+people again. James found that Mr. Stogwell was unkind, too, so he went
+with Simon Girty to Colonel McKee, Superintendent of Indians, to get her
+release. He had Mr. Stogwell brought to trial, but they did not have
+enough evidence and Polly could not leave him. However, after much
+trouble, James was able to get passage for Polly and himself on a
+trading boat and came down the Great Lakes. They landed in a Moravian
+town where they met some friends owning horses. They journeyed to
+Pittsburgh and stayed until Spring. Then they set off for Virginia, sad,
+of course, knowing how few there would be to welcome them. Yet they were
+delighted to find their brother Joseph was still safe. He had been
+visiting his grandfather in Rockbridge County at the time of the
+massacre.
+
+Polly met and married the Reverend Samuel Brown, a Presbyterian
+preacher. They had seven sons, and five of them were ministers.
+
+
+
+
+Washington's Boyhood Friend--Lord Fairfax
+
+
+"The Proprietor of the Northern Neck," Lord Fairfax, lived at "Greenway
+Court" after first having a country seat at Belvoir near the Potomac
+River in what is now Fairfax County.
+
+An interesting character this Fairfax must have been. Born with a title
+in England, he moved in intellectual circles there, was acquainted with
+men of letters such as Addison and actually contributed some articles to
+the _Spectator_. Either through boredom or a disappointment in not
+winning the lady of his choice he decided to leave his country and come
+to Virginia.
+
+It may be of passing interest to learn that Lord Fairfax, although
+proprietor of thousands upon thousands of acres, lived in a
+comparatively simple way. His home was an unpretentious story and a half
+frame building, situated in a large grove of trees, and surrounded by
+smaller homes for servants and tenants. "Greenway Court," the name given
+the home, very probably lacked more indications of elegance and grace
+because of Fairfax's bachelor state.
+
+A mile from the house he had erected a white-oak post which served as
+guide for those in search of his dwelling. At White Post, the village
+which derived its name from the signpost, one may see a replica of the
+original, located on the site of the first one placed there in 1760 by
+the proprietor.
+
+His domain, called the "Northern Neck of Virginia," comprised the
+present counties of Lancaster, Northumberland, Richmond, Westmoreland,
+Stafford, King George, Prince William, Fairfax, Loudon, Fauquier,
+Culpeper, Clarke, Madison and Page in Virginia and numerous counties in
+West Virginia.
+
+Lord Fairfax was exceptionally interested in fox hunting and reserved
+great tracts for this sport. Sometimes he spent weeks at a time hunting.
+He made a rule that whoever caught the fox should cut off its tail and
+hold it aloft and should have no part of the expense of the subsequent
+frolic. As soon as a fox was started all the young men would gallop off
+at a great rate, while Fairfax waited behind with a servant familiar
+with the hills and streams and who had a good ear; following the
+servant's directions he frequently stuck the fox's tail in his hat and
+rejoined the hunters!
+
+Familiar to everyone is the fact that Lord Fairfax engaged Washington, a
+boy of about sixteen, to survey his vast lands beyond the Blue Ridge.
+Through this undertaking the latter gained a thorough knowledge of
+frontier life and a reputation for dependability and self-confidence.
+These attributes were to be needed later for participation in the French
+and Indian War. A warm and lasting friendship grew up between the
+proprietor and Washington.
+
+Being British by birth and sympathy the course of the Revolution was
+watched with mingled hopes and anxieties by Fairfax. When news of the
+final capitulation at Yorktown arrived late in October 1781 the feeble,
+disappointed and tired old man called his servant and asked to be put to
+bed since he felt the time had come for him to die. In December of that
+same year the great proprietor of the Northern Neck of Virginia died.
+
+
+
+
+Winchester--The Frontier Town of the Valley
+
+
+The first inhabitants of Winchester were a large tribe of Shawnee
+Indians. Two houses occupied by white men are supposed to have been
+standing as early as 1738.
+
+Known as Old Town and Fredericktown it was named Winchester in 1752 in
+honor of the English home of its founder, Colonel James Wood. The
+settlement grew so rapidly it was necessary several times to enlarge its
+boundaries. Colonel Wood and Lord Fairfax both donated additional lots
+in order to extend the corporate limits of the town.
+
+During the French and Indian War Colonel George Washington was asked to
+go to Winchester to defend the Valley. He found refugees overrunning the
+place and determined to build a fort on the outskirts of the town which
+would afford protection in case of raids. He imported his own blacksmith
+to do the foundry work, so anxious was he to speed the construction of
+the fortifications. Fort Loudon was the name given, after Lord Loudon
+the commander of the colonial forces, and a successful defense was made
+against the French there. It may be of interest to learn that the fort's
+bastion still remains and the well which supplied water during the
+French and Indian War is still in use today.
+
+No account of Winchester would be complete if the story of General
+Daniel Morgan were omitted. Of Scotch-Irish extraction he came with his
+parents from New Jersey to the new settlement. As a youngster he was
+considered something of a bully. The story goes that around
+"Battletown," an intersection in the roads where toughs used to fight
+for the joy of combat, young Morgan was in the habit of placing large
+stones at strategic points. In case he had to retreat he was able to
+draw on this supply of ammunition!
+
+Tradition has it that on one occasion young Dan Morgan had just arrived
+in Winchester from the Western settlements on the South Branch--as a
+driver of a pack for the fur traders. George Washington was ready with
+his small party to go to the Ohio Country with a message to the French
+officials not to continue their fort building on English property.
+
+[Illustration:-_Courtesy Virginia State Chamber of Commerce_
+
+GEORGE WASHINGTON'S HEADQUARTERS, WINCHESTER, VA.]
+
+Washington's journal gives the following notes: "On Ye 17th day of Ye
+month of Novemo,--the party consists of one guide and packer, one Indian
+interpreter, one French interpreter and four gentlemen." We know now
+that the celebrated Gist was his guide and Vanbraam his interpreter. It
+is said that Morgan offered his services too as a guide, and was
+accepted. It was on this perilous trip, perhaps, that each of these
+young men realized the fine traits of the other.
+
+It was Daniel Morgan who, at the outbreak of the Revolution, marched a
+hundred men with one wagon of supplies to Boston to report to General
+Washington. He fought at Quebec and Saratoga and defeated Tarleton at
+Cowpens. He had charge of Hessian prisoners captured at Saratoga and
+there are evidences yet of his supervision of construction of stone
+walls and homes and the mill at Millwood built with prisoner labor.
+
+"Saratoga" is the name he gave his home near Boyce; it was built mainly
+by the Hessian artisans. On his way to Gettysburg in 1863 General Lee
+used the fine old house as headquarters. This estate is on the road
+between Winchester and Boyce and is in full view of the highway.
+
+There is a wealth of amusing tales told about the old city, some dating
+as far back as its conception; others have to do with the activities of
+later times.
+
+The story is still heard in Winchester of the time when guests and
+village loafers were congregated in one of the taverns at the close of a
+day to discuss weighty topics over their glasses of ale. From a window
+they saw an old man get out of his gig, taking with him luggage for
+overnight accommodation. The gig was comparable to the famed One Horse
+Shay in its state of near collapse. Comments were passed among the group
+inside as to the man's shabby appearance, his business and ultimate
+destination. He was soon forgot in the midst of the ensuing conversation
+between several young lawyers, one of whom remarked that he had heard a
+sermon delivered which equalled the eloquence and fluency usually
+reserved to lawyers pleading their cases. This brought forth eventually
+a heated discussion of the merits of the Christian religion, argued pro
+and con by those present lasting from six in the evening till eleven.
+
+Finally one young fellow turned to the quiet old traveller. The latter
+had sat with apparent interest and meekness throughout the five-hour
+debate and had not joined in. The question was asked, "Well, old
+gentleman, what's your opinion?"
+
+The reply lasted almost an hour; he answered argument for argument in
+the exact order in which each had occurred and with the greatest
+simplicity and dignity. At the conclusion no one spoke for some time. At
+last inquiry was ventured as to his identity. He was Chief Justice John
+Marshall.
+
+In his _Virginia: A History of the People_ John Esten Cooke relates this
+story. An Irish laborer and his wife came in 1767 to the lower valley
+country and stopped at the home of a Mr. and Mrs. Strode, German
+landowner. For several years they lived with the German family and
+during the time a son was born. When they decided to push on farther
+south the Strode children followed, begging that they leave the little
+boy behind with them. They had become very much attached to the baby and
+were reluctant to see him go away. The parents naturally refused the
+request. While stopping for a short rest they placed the baby on the
+ground and the children would have run off with him if they could.
+
+The family kept its southward course and at last reached the Waxhaws in
+North Carolina. Here the boy grew up and later his name was familiar to
+every one--Andrew Jackson, seventh President of the United States.
+
+The legend may or may not be true, according to Mr. Cooke. But at least
+there was a clear, cool spring on the Strode farm called "Jackson's
+Spring."
+
+A pamphlet compiled at Winchester on "What To See and How To See It"
+tells us that the town changed hands seventy-six times during the War
+Between the States. Other sources give a fraction of a smaller figure.
+The exact number of times the town was under first Federal then
+Confederate forces does not matter, but it is well to know that so much
+of the fighting took place around the neighborhood. More will be said
+about the Valley warfare later on.
+
+Beginning in November 1861 and continuing until March of the following
+year General Jackson had his headquarters in Winchester. After finding
+suitable quarters he sent for his wife who had remained at their home in
+Lexington, Virginia. Colonel Henderson in his well-known book,
+_Stonewall Jackson,_ quotes Mrs. Jackson as saying of her stay that
+Winter:
+
+     "The Winchester ladies were amongst the most famous of Virginia
+     housekeepers, and lived in a good deal of old-fashioned
+     elegance and profusion. The old border town had not then
+     changed hands with the conflicting armies, as it was destined
+     to do so many times during the war. Under the rose-colored
+     light in which I viewed everything that winter, it seemed to me
+     that no people could have been more cultivated, attractive, and
+     noble-hearted. Winchester was rich in happy homes and pleasant
+     people; and the extreme kindness and appreciation shown General
+     Jackson by all bound us to them so closely and warmly that ever
+     after that winter he called the place our 'war home'."
+
+Winchester rightly claims that it is in the "heart of the apple
+industry," for thousands of acres are devoted to the growing of fine
+apples. Over a million barrels are harvested annually and at Winchester,
+we believe, is the largest cold storage apple plant in the world.
+
+Celebrating its crop each year, the city stages an apple blossom
+festival during the latter part of April or the first of May when the
+orchards for miles around are filled with the delicately tinted pink
+blooms. This is a lavish sort of entertainment. A queen is selected to
+reign over the festivities, her maids are invited from surrounding
+sections of the country to participate in the parades and balls which
+are given during the days' programs. If you haven't been already, plan
+to attend an Apple Blossom Festival and see Virginia in one of her
+prettiest moods--with gay young ladies and bloom-filled orchards.
+
+You know of the "Tom, Dick and Harry" trio of Winchester and its
+neighborhood, don't you? They are the world famous Byrd brothers,
+descendants of the founder of Richmond, Colonel William Byrd of Westover
+on the James. Tom Byrd is a successful planter and orchardist. Richard
+Byrd is noted for his polar expeditions; now he is devoting all his
+energies towards the perpetuation of peace for our country. Harry Byrd
+was at one time a progressive young Governor of the State and now serves
+as a Senator in the United States Congress.
+
+
+
+
+The Valley Pike
+
+
+"Route Eleven" as the road is called from Winchester to Bristol is one
+of the most historic as well as the most beautiful in all Virginia. It
+stretches, like a broad silver ribbon, for over three hundred and fifty
+miles. It begins at the northern end of the Valley, near the Potomac
+River, and leads one through the fertile Valley, southward and winding
+ever westward through the Blue Ridge and the Alleghany mountains.
+
+Let us review this famous driveway. Long before the coming of the white
+men, the Indians followed almost a natural trail, as they journeyed back
+and forth into the richest hunting grounds known anywhere in all their
+world. Along it they found the big elk, bear, buffalo, wolves, foxes,
+wild turkeys and smaller game.
+
+The first pioneers followed this Indian Trail, as they called it. Then,
+as they developed the country more and more, they brought in horses and
+oxen. This made a wider road and soon they were rolling their hogsheads
+of tobacco and grain over it. They carried their products to market in
+heavy wagons, swapping their wild bees' honey, venison, grain, and
+hand-woven linen for the precious salt, sugar, iron and lead. Over this
+road came an ever increasing number of other pioneers to settle near
+those already living in the rich Valley. They brought their furniture,
+guns, and families and a most fervent respect for the priceless liberty
+to be found there. Liberty where one could worship God as one pleased.
+Liberty where one's children could share in the development and in a new
+country, full of opportunities.
+
+Historians claim that the young George Washington surveyed this road
+through the Valley. Engineers today say that he did a wonderful work and
+that they would make a few changes in it. Let us look at some of the
+famous names of those who lived near or travelled over it. Some of them
+lived within sight of the beautiful Blue Ridge Mountains while others
+visited from one end of it to the other. As one travels near Winchester,
+he reads the names of John Marshall, George Washington, and General
+Morgan. From Charlottesville one reads of Patrick Henry visiting Thomas
+Jefferson at Monticello. There, too, were Lewis and Clarke, men famous
+in the development of our West, the McCormicks, the Houstons, the
+Austins and other noted Virginians who went West and settled there.
+
+By now the Road was being called by many names, such as "The Old Indian
+Trail", "The Great Road", the "Settlers's Road", while still others
+called it the "Wilderness Road".
+
+Then came peace and prosperity after the French and Indian War and that
+of the Revolution. Finer horses and carriages were being brought into
+the Valley and so a better road had to be built. Some thrifty soul
+suggested having a splendid road which should be maintained by
+tollgates. And so was built the famous "Valley Pike". This was the
+pride, not only of the Valley, but of all Virginia and the South.
+
+Interesting stories are told every day, as one travels over this
+beautiful road, such as that of Charlotte Hillman who kept a tollgate
+along the Pike. While Sheridan was making his famous raid through the
+Valley (when he remarked that a crow travelling through the countryside
+would have to carry a knapsack with provisions for his flight), he came
+to the tollgate. Charlotte let down the gate and demanded toll from the
+army before allowing it to pass. The General and his staff paid the toll
+but he refused to pay for the entire corps. She lifted the gate but cut
+a notch on a tree for every ten soldiers who passed. At the close of the
+War she presented the United States Government with a bill--which is
+said to have been paid in full.
+
+Today Route Eleven is known as the Lee-Jackson Highway, so called in
+honor of Generals Robert Edward Lee and "Stonewall" Jackson. As you
+travel through the Great Valley of Virginia may you know more intimately
+the great men and women who have built not only the Great Valley of
+Virginia, but who have helped in the making of America. We hope this
+little book may make you know them and love Virginia more ... and we
+hope you will come again and again to enjoy the Great Valley of
+Virginia. Berryville
+
+Long before the County of Clarke was ordered to be carved from
+Frederick, a town was established called Battletown. This was so called,
+says tradition, because of the rough and-tumble fights of the gang who
+met there to drink their ale.
+
+Daniel Morgan, a picturesque character of the Valley, thought he had the
+right to stop such fights and so he frequently got into the fray. Old
+records show that Morgan sometimes had to pay a fine "for misbehavior."
+But no doubt it was here that he won his strength and learned to
+out-match the toughs of the neighborhood. Certainly he won a reputation
+for his prowess, and as a general he won distinction.
+
+The town changed its name in 1798 when it was granted a charter and
+became Berryville. It was named for its founder Benjamin Berry, who
+donated the land and when Clark County was formed in 1836, Berryville
+was chosen as the county seat.
+
+Tradition tells us that George Washington boarded with Captain Charles
+Smith when he was in the Valley surveying for Lord Fairfax. This home
+was about a half mile from the present Berryville. His office while in
+the Valley was a small log building which was used as a spring house for
+"Soldier's Rest." A cold spring of water flows under the floor of the
+first room, which is about twelve feet square. George used the room
+upstairs for his sleeping quarters. It was there he kept his instruments
+and carefully recorded in his diary his experiences. It was there he
+made out his reports for Lord Fairfax. Howe, an early historian, tells
+us about that youth of sixteen. Quoting Bancroft, he writes: "The woods
+of Virginia sheltered the youthful George Washington, the son of a
+widow. Born by the side of the Potomac, beneath the roof of a
+Westmoreland farmer, almost from infancy his lot had been the lot of an
+orphan. No academy had welcomed him to its shade, no college crowned him
+with its honors, to read, to write, to cipher--these had been his
+degrees of knowledge. And now at sixteen years, in quest of an honest
+maintainance, encountering intolerable toil, cheered onward by being
+able to write to a boyhood friend, 'Dear Richard, a doubloon is my
+constant gain every day, and sometimes six pistoles.' He was his own
+cook, having no spit but a forked stick, no plate but a large chip;
+roaming over the spurs of the Alleghanies and along the banks of the
+Shenandoah, alive to nature, among skin-clad savages, with their scalps
+and rattles, or uncouth emigrants that would never speak English, rarely
+sleeping in a bed, holding a bear skin a splendid couch, glad of a
+resting place for a night upon a little hay, straw or fodder ... this
+stripling surveyor in the woods, with no companion but his unlettered
+associates, and no implements of science but his compass and chain,
+contrasted strangely with his fellows. And yet God had not selected a
+Newcastle, nor a monarch of the Hapsburg, nor of Hanover, but the
+Virginia Stripling to give to human affairs and as far as events can
+depend upon individuals, had placed the rights and destinies of
+countless millions in the keeping of the widow's son."
+
+While in the Valley of Virginia the young George Washington learned how
+to tell the age of various trees by the thickness of their bark. The
+older a tree is, the thicker the bark and it is much rougher and thicker
+on the north side of the tree. He learned to know the course of the
+winds and to get to the leeward of his game when out hunting for food or
+skins. This was done by putting his finger in his mouth and holding it
+there until it became warm, then holding it high above his head; the
+side which became cold showed him which way the wind was blowing. He
+learned that the deer always seeks the sheltered places and the leeward
+side of the hills. In rainy weather, they keep in the open woods and on
+the highest grounds. He found that the fur or skins of animals are good
+in all those months in which an "R" is found in the spelling.
+
+He learned how to track animals, to know the various birds' songs and
+cries. He watched the hunters build their camp fires and learned how to
+cook his own game.
+
+
+
+
+Front Royal
+
+
+As most of us know, Charles II lived in such extravagant style and had
+such a luxurious court he had difficulty in keeping his bills paid. He
+was accustomed to resorting to one scheme after another in order to
+raise revenue. At one time he dreamt of great wealth from the Virginia
+colony through its tobacco crop--and it did supply him generously with
+taxes.
+
+Realizing a lucrative business might be established by trading in furs
+with the Indians, Charles ordered Governor Berkeley to send explorers
+beyond the mountains. The governor chose a man of whom history records
+very little. John Lederer was at one time a Franciscan monk. He
+obviously had leanings towards an adventuresome life. In 1761 he set out
+for the West, under the compulsion of Governor Berkeley. The party was
+composed of five Indian guides and a Colonel Catlett. They went through
+Manassas Gap in the neighborhood of Front Royal.
+
+The expedition proved a failure because of the unfriendly attitude of
+the Indians and the roughness of the country. Charles was destined for
+another disappointment.
+
+White settlers came to Front Royal as early as 1734 and built their
+little houses in sheltered coves near the Shenandoah. Soon, news of the
+desirable home sites in the Valley attracted other settlers. Lehewtown
+was the early name given the settlement.
+
+Rough characters began to find their way here and shootings, brawls and
+hard drinking were the order of the day--so much so that the place later
+became known as "Helltown." However, it acquired more dignity and order
+with the years and about 1788 it was incorporated under the name of
+Front Royal. And why did the town get its double name? There are several
+existing legends as to the derivation of the town's present name.
+
+The trails from Page and Shenandoah valleys crossed at this point. One
+account states that the settlers going from one place to another met at
+a tavern at the crossroads where the Royalist troops were stationed.
+Hence ground around the town was a military post. When the sentry on
+guard called out "Front" and the settlers were not able to give the
+password "Royal." The name Camp Front Royal was given the post and later
+it was known by the last two words.
+
+      *      *      *      *      *
+
+A particularly tragic battle occurred at Front Royal in May, 1862, when
+the First Maryland Regiment of the Union forces met the First Maryland
+Regiment of the Confederate Army. It happened when Stonewall Jackson
+came out suddenly from the Page valley and attacked General Banks' left
+wing stationed at this town. The Federals were defeated and were driven
+on through Rivertown where they tried hard to burn the bridges and cut
+off the Confederate advance. The cavalry of the latter under Ewell saved
+the bridges which spanned the two branches of the Shenandoah River.
+About two weeks later the Confederates themselves burned the bridges,
+but this was after Jackson had flanked Banks away from the position at
+Strasburg, followed him to Winchester and won a victory there.
+
+
+
+
+Flint Hill
+
+
+In 1861 young Albert Willis was a theological student. Like many others,
+he left his studies to enter the services of the Confederate Army. While
+he was not a chaplain in Mosby's Rangers in which he had enlisted, he
+did carry on his pastoral work with the men by giving them Bibles,
+holding some services, and writing home for those who could not write;
+no day passed during which he did not find an opportunity to be of
+service to the men.
+
+One day in October, 1864 he was granted a furlough and was riding
+southward to Culpeper, hoping to reach his home in that county. Not far
+away from Flint Hill his horse lost a shoe, so he stopped at Gaines
+Mill. There was a rickety old blacksmith shop at the crossroads. It had
+been raining and he was very wet. While the horse was being shod, he
+stood near the fire to dry his boots. The beat of the hammer on the iron
+drowned out the sounds of approaching horses on which rode Federal
+soldiers.
+
+Willis was taken captive and joined another prisoner outside. The two
+Confederates were told that one of them must die in reprisal for the
+death of a Federal soldier who had been killed the day before.
+
+The prisoners were carried before General William H. Powell, Union
+Cavalry leader. Someone told General Powell that Mr. Willis was a
+chaplain.
+
+"If you are a chaplain," General Powell told him, "your life will be
+spared."
+
+"I am not a chaplain," the young Confederate replied, "I am a soldier,
+fighting in the ranks."
+
+General Powell then told the Confederates that one of them would be
+hanged within an hour. They would be given straws to draw lots. In this
+way would one be spared.
+
+Willis replied that he was a Christian and was not afraid to die. He
+insisted that the other Confederate who was a married man, be set free.
+The doomed man was led out to a spot on the road near Flint Hill. A rope
+was placed around his neck while the other end was tied to a young
+sapling which had been bent down by the weight of several Federal
+soldiers.
+
+While the preparations were being made, young Willis knelt down and
+prayed. A witness said he never heard such a beautiful prayer, lacking
+all bitterness. When he was through, the men released the tree and it
+sprang into its natural position, swinging Willis high into the air,
+where the body was left.
+
+When the Federals had gone, Mr. John Ricketts came by with a companion
+and they cut down the rope, took the body of the brave Confederate and
+buried it in the cemetery at Flint Hill. Today there is a stone which
+marks his resting place and every Spring women go and place flowers on
+his grave. Nearby is a small chapel named in honor of him--"Willis
+Chapel."
+
+General Powell knew that young Willis was not accused as a spy, but he
+was carrying out an order, issued in August 1864 by General U. S. Grant,
+which read: "When any of Mosby's men are caught hang them without
+trial."
+
+
+
+
+The Skyline Drive
+
+
+This world famous drive is not very old in point of years, but its lure
+has and is attracting thousands of visitors every week to see the
+beauties along its borders. Beginning at the northern entrance at Front
+Royal, one winds around curving grades of finely built roads which pass
+through great forests of oak, walnut, maple and wonderful specimens of
+evergreens.
+
+West of the Drive one sees the eastern section of the Shenandoah Valley
+and Massanutten Mountain which divides the Shenandoah River into two
+forks for fifty miles or more. The river winds in and out and at one
+place the guide will point out eleven bits of blue river spots as it
+makes as many turns through the Valley. One thinks of old patchwork
+quilts as he looks into the Valley below, for there are patches of
+green fields, oblong bits of blue water, red roofs of barns and homes,
+besides the various shades of greenwood lots.
+
+[Illustration:--_Courtesy Virginia State Chamber of Commerce_
+
+VIEW ALONG THE SKYLINE DRIVE IN THE SHENANDOAH NATIONAL PARK]
+
+And no matter when or how often one goes, the views are never the same.
+Sometimes the blue haze from the Blue Ridge Mountains makes the sunlight
+turn to a golden mist. Clouds often cast huge moving shadows over the
+fields and forests below--and sometimes they shut out the patchwork
+entirely, leaving the visitor in a gray world, with only himself and the
+clouds below and above. But this is unusual.
+
+Tall stark gray chestnut trees make a striking contrast against the
+greens and flowers, especially in the Fall when the leaves are so
+brilliantly colored. These once-producing nut trees were killed by
+blight years ago.
+
+Occasionally one's attention is caught by a moving object high above on
+some peak. This will prove, upon investigation, to be a hiker, or maybe
+two or more. Every year more and more of these nature lovers are using
+the Appalachian Trail, which, as you know, is the foot-trail from Maine
+to Georgia. It was through the Potomac Appalachian Trail Club that this
+link in the trail was included in the Skyline Drive and they maintain
+locked shelters for hikers along the way within the park.
+
+Other trails invite one to lofty peaks through wild canyons and into
+groves of giant hemlocks. Another takes one through White Oak Canyon
+where a stream of pure water tumbles over huge rocks and makes a
+snow-white misty spray. Here one sees rare wild flowers, ferns, moss and
+herbs. There are trout lilies, Solomon's-seal, Hepaticae and many other
+varieties of flowers.
+
+There is a trail to Big and Little Devil's Staircases where two hundred
+foot cliffs protect narrow canyons filled with maidenhair fern,
+spleenwort, cinnamon, wild parsley, ginseng and ginger. Tall maple and
+tulip trees are lovingly intertwined by such clinging vines as trumpet
+vines and honeysuckle while at their feet grow rare ferns and carpets of
+moss. One hears the songs of the birds and sees the flashing of their
+brilliant colored wings.
+
+Not far from Mary's Rock is Skyland. Here the tourist finds
+accommodations for overnight or longer. Big roaring fires at evening
+make visitors linger to listen to the stories of the Valley.
+
+Horseback riding is great sport for the Skyline guests who explore the
+various trails nearby.
+
+The visitor may leave the drive at Panorama and go west down the
+mountain to Luray. Or he may go east from Panorama down a lovely road to
+Sperryville. Then on Route 211 he may motor north to Washington or, if
+he would like to go by way of Culpeper, Madison, Orange and
+Fredericksburg, he would find a rolling country and inviting roads to
+the west, south and east.
+
+If the visitor would continue the drive to Swift Run Gap, he could go
+over the Spotswood Trail to Elkton and to the Valley beyond. If he would
+go east, he would also use the Spotswood Trail to Stanardsville and
+Gordonsville, then to Orange or to Charlottesville.
+
+Who dreamed the dream or had the first vision of the Skyline Drive? What
+farsighted men started the movement which resulted in our national
+government's making a great scenic park in Virginia?
+
+A bulletin from the _Commonwealth_ gives the following summary:
+
+     "The movement which has made this area a national park was
+     begun in 1924 when the director of the National Park Service
+     and the Secretary of the Interior conferred on the
+     establishment of a park in the southern Appalachian Mountains.
+     The Secretary appointed a committee to choose the most
+     attractive and suitable area; in December, 1924, his committee
+     voted unanimously for the area of the Blue Ridge mountains
+     between Front Royal and Waynesboro to be the first large
+     national park in the East....
+
+     "Acquisition of the area was a very difficult task. In 1926 the
+     newly created Virginia State Commission on Conservation and
+     Development started field work, and the Shenandoah National
+     Park Association began a campaign to raise funds for the
+     purchase of the land. The required area was made up of 3,870
+     separate tracts. Most of the owners did not wish to sell; land
+     titles were not clear nor boundaries well defined; sufficient
+     money to make the purchase was not available. Congress reduced
+     the minimum area required for administration, protection, and
+     development of the park by the National Park Service. Certain
+     individuals made large donations. The Virginia legislature
+     appropriated $1,000,000 for acquisition and passed a special
+     law providing for wholesale condemnation of the land. Finally,
+     in 1935, at a total cost of approximately $2,000,000, 275
+     square miles were acquired, and the deed to the park area was
+     presented to the United States government by the State of
+     Virginia.
+
+     "The completion of this tremendous task of acquiring and
+     establishing the Shenandoah National Park has made available to
+     the people of the United States, for recreational and
+     educational purposes, an unusually attractive region of
+     mountains, hollows, dashing streams, forests and flowers.
+
+     "The mountains rise to a maximum height of slightly more than
+     4,000 feet above sea level, or approximately 3,200 feet above
+     the surrounding country."
+
+
+
+
+Strasburg
+
+
+We can hardly mention a Valley town which has retained its original name
+throughout the years. What is now known as Strasburg was in the
+beginning called Staufferstadt, which indicates its German background.
+Peter Stover was the founder from whom the settlement took its name but
+when he had the town incorporated in 1761 he changed it to Strasburg in
+honor of his home city in Germany.
+
+There are evidences of the pioneer life of the Valley to be seen near
+here. A house built about 1755 and occupied by the Hupps was so
+constructed as to serve efficiently as a fort during the Indian raids;
+this may still be seen. The home of George Bowman, a son-in-law of Joist
+Hite, is also close by Strasburg.
+
+Joist Hite had four famous grandsons born at this Bowman home. John was
+a governor of Kentucky. Abraham was a Colonel in the Revolutionary War
+and Isaac also served in that war. Joseph served under General George
+Rogers Clark in the expedition to the Northwest Territory.
+
+The story is told that a party of eight Indians with a white man named
+Abraham Mitchell killed George Miller and his wife and two children just
+two miles from Strasburg. They also killed John Dellinger and took his
+wife and baby prisoners.
+
+A group of white men set out to find them and overtook the Indians in
+the South Branch Mountains. They fired upon the Indians and killed one
+of them, allowing the others to make their escape. Mrs. Dellinger was
+forgotten in their flight so she came home with her neighbors. She told
+them the Indians had killed her baby by dashing out its brains on a
+tree--a favorite means of execution with them.
+
+Samuel Kercheval, who so frequently is quoted by us and of whom we have
+written elsewhere is buried near Strasburg at "Harmony Hall."
+
+The town saw Union and Confederate troops march by during the length of
+the war and several battles took place not far distant. A few trench
+lines may still be seen around the countryside. "Banks' Folly" was
+erected by General Banks when he expected Jackson to invade the
+territory from the south and later found to his dismay that the
+Confederates had entered the Valley from the opposite direction. Signal
+Knob on top of Massanutten Mountain was used by the latter general as a
+means of communication with the main division of the army on the
+Rappahannock River.
+
+
+
+
+Orkney Springs
+
+
+Orkney Springs, earlier known as the Yellow Springs, was named for the
+Earl of Orkney and was surveyed by George Washington, according to some
+accounts. The Springs may be reached by travelling west of Mount
+Jackson.
+
+     "The Orkney Springs are composed of several lively springs and
+     are strongly chalybeate. Everything the water touches or passes
+     through, or over, is beautifully lined with a bright yellow
+     fringe or moss. The use of this water is found beneficial for
+     the cure of several complaints. A free use of this water acts
+     as a most powerful cathartic, as does also a small quantity of
+     the fringe or moss, mixed with common water."
+
+So stated the historian Howe concerning the Springs. Around the waters
+there grew up a tiny village which accommodates the visitors to the
+section. An excellent hotel caters to the guests who seek either quiet
+and rest or zestful games.
+
+Near Orkney Springs there is a beautiful outdoor shrine where the
+Episcopal Church holds regular and impressive services during the Summer
+months--Shrinemont.
+
+
+
+
+Stephens City
+
+
+An act of the General Assembly in 1758 made Stephens City, or
+Stephensburg as it was then known, the second town in the Valley. The
+first was Winchester. Lewis Stephens the founder of this town came to
+Virginia with Joist Hite in 1732.
+
+Later on this was a thriving town manufacturing the Newtown-Stephensburg
+wagon that was the pride of teamsters who travelled all roads leading
+south and west. They took merchandise into the wilderness and returned
+with furs, skins and other products sent back by those settlers who had
+pushed on farther into the wilds of Virginia. Many a covered wagon which
+saw the plains of the Middle West had its birth in Stephensburg.
+
+When the Forty-Niners created companies which sent supplies to the gold
+fields of California they found that few wagons lasted more than six
+months. At last they began to order those being made in Stephensburg.
+These were found to be sturdier in build and could stand the strain of
+the rough roads and paths longer than other wagons on the market.
+
+The stores in the town were good ones, and often covered wagons came in
+drawn by splendid horses. The drivers of these teams put up overnight at
+the old taverns and many of the citizens gathered after supper to hear
+the news of what was going on in Alexandria or in Tennessee. The drivers
+would be called personal shoppers today, for they brought lists of
+articles to be carried back into the far-off country for the convenience
+of the homesteaders there. The lists probably included sugar, tea and
+coffee, cloth by the bolt and household articles. You can imagine the
+joy with which the covered wagons would be sighted days later!
+
+During Jackson's Valley Campaign the village was known as Newtown and
+mention is made in this book of fighting in the neighborhood.
+
+Today the main industry centers around lime which is found in large
+quantities close by.
+
+
+
+
+Middletown
+
+
+As an early village this was known as Senseny Town, in honor of the
+doctor by that name who owned the land. In 1795 it was called
+Middletown. Long ago it was a manufacturing town and was noted for the
+fine clocks and watches which were splendid time-keepers for the
+punctual and thrifty Valley folk. In fact, the demands for them came
+from far and near. The old wooden wheels were first used, then brass was
+introduced and the watch-makers learned to make the eight-day
+clocks--the last word in time-keepers until the advent of the modern
+electric clocks. The manufacturers of the watches and clocks soon made
+instruments for surveyors as well as the much needed compasses.
+
+The first successful effort to produce a machine to take the place of
+the flail and threshing floor for threshing wheat from the straw had its
+start in this same town. The machines were a marvel in their day and the
+villagers talked for months at the time when the machine beat out one
+hundred bushels of grain in one day!
+
+
+
+
+The Story Teller of the Valley--Samuel Kercheval
+
+PIONEER LIFE
+
+
+Samuel Kercheval as a boy saw many of the pioneer men and women who had
+cut their homes out of the wilderness. He never tired hearing of how
+they had left Germany, and later had come down from Pennsylvania into
+the Valley. He himself could remember many of the "Newcomers" who were
+themselves pioneers. He loved the stories of the forts, the Indian raids
+and the customs of the Germans and Scotch-Irish. He later began to write
+down many of these stories and after he was older he rode up and down
+the Valley gathering more and more stories and reading wills and old
+records. Nothing was of too little value for him to record, even
+accounts of the freaks of nature, like a six-legged calf, snakes and
+other animals.
+
+When Kercheval's friends insisted that he write a book about the Valley,
+he objected until they told him how much the children of the country
+would enjoy stories of their grandparents. His own children (there had
+been fourteen of them in all), like all children, loved stories. Now he
+began to get his notes in shape and about one hundred years after the
+first settlers came into the Valley, Samuel Kercheval's _History of the
+Valley of Virginia_ was ready for the publishers.
+
+This was so popular that all the first edition was soon exhausted. How
+pleased he was with the demands for more of them! However, he died
+before the second edition came out. He lived at the time of his death in
+1845 at "Harmony Hall" near Strasburg. This had at one time been a fort.
+During an Indian raid, we are told, sixteen families sought shelter
+within its old stone walls. They lived together so peaceably that they
+gave it the name of "Harmony Hall."
+
+It is from Kercheval that we get the first pictures of the Valley. He
+writes that it was long beautiful prairie, with tall rich grasses, five
+and six feet tall, with fringes of sturdy timbers following its swiftly
+running streams. He describes the kinds of soils and tells which is rich
+and which is poor. For instance he says where one finds slate he may
+rest assured the soil will not produce very good crops. On the other
+hand, where one finds limestone the soil will produce fine products,
+grains and fruits.
+
+Metal was found in some of the hillsides and mountains. An Englishman
+named Powell found silver ore on the mountain which bears his name. He
+smeltered the silver and from it made coins. This was breaking the laws,
+of course, and soon officers were attempting to arrest him. Powell fled
+to his mountain where he had a small fort hidden, and for years eluded
+them. After many years men found his little shop where he smeltered the
+ore and Kercheval himself saw the crude crucible in which the ore was
+refined and the iron utensils also.
+
+Kercheval tells that many of the farmers found it difficult to plough
+their lands and to make crops because of the innumerable small and large
+stones which they found everywhere. At last they decided to get rid of
+them and built many of the stone walls which one sees up and down the
+mountain sides, along winding roads and enclosing picturesque homes. He
+says the soil is so rich that seeds do not need to be planted very deep,
+as they will germinate if there is only enough soil to cover them.
+
+There were great sugar-maple trees too and he tells of those "sugar
+hills" in which there are four or five hundred acres of trees. They even
+look like sugar loaves from a distance and today on Paddy's Mountain you
+may still see some of them. You may already have guessed that the name
+Paddy was in honor of the owner Patrick Blake, an Irishman who built in
+the gap which is named for him.
+
+Kercheval lists carefully all the various healing springs and gives the
+properties of each. He even gives the names of many persons who were
+benefitted by drinking from or bathing in them.
+
+Let us pause here and read about these pioneers, how they built their
+houses, how they dressed, and something of their superstitions, manners
+and customs.
+
+The first settlers built plain sturdy houses made mostly from rough hewn
+logs. Some of these were covered with split clapboards, having weight
+poles to keep them in place. Many of them had no floors except the earth
+itself. If made of wood, they used rough logs, split in two and roughly
+smoothed with a broad ax. However, as they improved the lands and their
+families grew, some larger houses were built of stone, which the men and
+boys brought in from the fields.
+
+The married men generally shaved their heads and they wore wigs or linen
+caps. When the Revolutionary War broke out this custom was stopped for
+they could no longer buy wigs from Europe and none were made in this
+country. There was little linen, so they could not get enough for other
+needs and they could do without caps.
+
+The men's coats were mostly made with broad backs and straight short
+skirts. These had huge pockets with flaps. The waistcoats had skirts
+nearly down to the knees and pockets also. Their breeches were so short
+they hardly reached to their knees, and they were fastened with a tight
+band. Their stockings were drawn up under the knee-hand and tied with a
+red or blue garter below the knee so it could be seen. Their shoes were
+made of coarse leather, with straps and they were fastened with buckles
+of brass for every day--maybe with silver for Sundays and holidays. The
+men's hats were either of wool or fur with a round crown three or four
+inches in height and with a very broad brim. The shirt collar was only a
+narrow band and over it was worn a white linen stock drawn together at
+the ends and fastened with a broad metal buckle.
+
+The women wore a short gown and petticoat of plain materials and a
+calico cap. Their hair was combed back from the forehead and made into a
+plain knot at the nape of the neck.
+
+The women and girls worked in the fields and wore no shoes except in the
+winter. They worked from dawn 'til dark, for they milked, churned, made
+cheese, washed and ironed for the family, cooked, spun and wove, knitted
+stockings and quilted in their leisure moments. Kercheval tells us how
+they made apple butter and sourkrout. Of the latter he wrote:
+
+     "Sourkrout is made of the best of cabbage. A box about three
+     feet in length and six or seven inches wide, with a sharp blade
+     fixed across the bottom, something on the principle of the
+     jack plane, is used for cutting the cabbage. The head being
+     separated from the stalk and stripped of its outer leaves is
+     placed in this box and run back and forth. The cabbage thus cut
+     up is placed in a barrel, a little salt is sprinkled on from
+     time to time, then pressed down very closely and covered at the
+     open head. In the course of three or four weeks it acquires a
+     sourish taste and to persons accustomed to the use of it is a
+     very agreeable food. It is said the use of it within the last
+     few years on boards of ship has proved it to be the best
+     preventive known for scurvy. The use of it is becoming pretty
+     general among all classes in the Valley."
+
+Kercheval even tells us what the pioneers did for medicine. When he was
+a boy he saw a man brought into the fort on horseback, who had been
+bitten by a rattlesnake. One of the men dragged the snake, fastened to a
+forked stick, behind the victim. The body of the snake was cut into
+small pieces, split and laid on the wounded flesh. This, they claimed,
+would draw out the poison of the bite. When this was done, the snake was
+burned to ashes. During this process, others gathered chestnut leaves
+and boiled them in a pot. Wide pieces of chestnut bark were applied to
+the man's wound and the chestnut-leaf mixture poured over some of the
+boiled leaves which had been made into a poultice. This was kept up
+during the first day and if not improved, the treatment was continued
+the next.
+
+Others suggested using boiled plantain, cooked in milk, which was given
+to the patient. Walnut fern was another remedy for snakebite. The braver
+patient submitted to cupping, sucking the wound or having someone cut
+out the flesh around the bite.
+
+Gunshot wounds were treated with slippery-elm bark, flax seed poultices
+or by scraping the wound itself and cauterizing it.
+
+The people suffering from rheumatism were rubbed with oil made from
+rattlesnakes, bears, geese, wolves or any wild animal. This was put on a
+flannel rag and bound to the parts affected.
+
+There were all kinds of syrups made from herbs such as spike nard and
+elecampane for coughs and tuberculosis. The Germans used songs or
+incantations for the cure of burns, nose-bleed and toothache. For one
+afflicted with erysipelas the blood of a black cat was given. Hence
+there were few cats which had not lost parts of their ears or tails.
+
+The sports of the boys in those early days were mostly those which
+developed their physical bodies. The boys were given a gun almost as
+soon as they were strong enough to carry one. They learned to make their
+own bows and to sharpen their own arrows and many of them could shoot as
+straight as the Indians who still roamed the hills.
+
+Throwing the tomahawk was another favorite sport. This axe-like weapon
+with its handle will make so many turns in a given distance. With a
+little practice a boy soon learned to throw his tomahawk and strike a
+tree as he walked through the forest.
+
+When a boy was twelve, he had his own small rifle and pouch and was made
+a member of the fort. He was given a certain port hole through which he
+took careful aim. He was often allowed to go with older men on hunting
+trips if he had proved himself worthy to be "among men."
+
+Dancing as we know it was unknown, but few ever enjoyed anything more
+than those boys and girls did dancing their jigs and reels. Their music
+was simple and singing was something both old and young enjoyed to the
+fullest. Story-telling was an art then, and year by year, old, old tales
+grew longer and longer and Jack the hero, always conquered all the
+giants.
+
+There was witchcraft in the Valley too, and when a crow or calf died or
+was sick, the owner often thought a witch had shot it with a hair ball
+or with some kind of curse. When a man lost his cunning in his once good
+aim, he was sure some one had put a "spell" on him. Some actually
+believed men were changed into horses and after being bridled, they were
+ridden all over the countryside. Many men thought this was why their
+bones ached and they felt too tired to work their farms.
+
+The men who did strange things were spoken of as wizards. Some called
+them witch-masters, and these claimed they could stop the mischievous
+work of the witches and cure baffling diseases.
+
+When a child was born with a frail body, or developed rickets, it was
+often thought to be caused by the spells of someone unfriendly to the
+family.
+
+If one would get rid of the witch in his neighborhood a picture of the
+supposed witch was drawn on a board or on a stump and shot at with a
+bullet which contained a bit of silver. This bullet, if it struck the
+picture, was thought to put a spell on the witch.
+
+We may smile at the thought of those superstitions, but few of us, if we
+are honest, will not admit that we have one pet superstition just as
+foolish as those referred to above.
+
+Kercheval tells us how difficult it often was for the farmer to retain
+all of his crops. There were so many animals, like the squirrels and
+raccoons, which liked their grains. Storms would come and huge trees
+would fall on their fences, letting their horses and cattle get into the
+fields.
+
+He makes us realize how difficult it was to procure the necessities of
+life. Where, for instance did they get the mills with which to grind
+their grains, where the instruments with which to make their farming
+implements and their household cooking utensils? Who were their weavers,
+their shoemakers, tailors, tanners and wagon makers? Of course there
+were none, for each farmer and his family had to rely on what they could
+do with their own hands or what they could trade to some neighbor in
+return for something done for him.
+
+The first mills or hominy blocks were made of wood. A block of wood
+about three feet long was burned at one end, wide at the mouth and
+narrow at the bottom, so that when the pestle hit the corn it was thrown
+up and as it fell down to the bottom it was mashed. Gradually, each
+grain of corn was ground to a like size. When the corn was soft, as it
+was in the Fall, this grinding made a fine meal for mush or "journey
+cake" as they called this form of bread. However, this was slow work
+later on when corn got hard.
+
+The farmer also used a different kind of mill. He used a sweep made of
+springy wood, thirty feet or more long. This pole was supported by two
+forks, placed about a third of its length from its butt end where it was
+securely fastened to some firm object. To this was attached a large
+mortise, a piece of sapling five or six inches in diameter and eight or
+more long. The lower end was shaped like a pestle and a pin of wood was
+put through it at a proper height so two people could work the sweep at
+once.
+
+Kercheval says he remembers the one which he helped work in his own
+home. It was made of a sugar-tree sapling and was kept almost in
+constant use either by his own family or by the neighbors who came to
+use it. He says these sweeps were used to make gunpowder from the
+saltpetre caves which the settlers soon found.
+
+The women often used a grater for the corn when it was very soft. This
+was made of a piece of tin, a few holes punched in on one side and then
+nailed to a block of wood and the corn scraped against it. This produced
+a form of corn-meal but was a very tedious method. Another kind was a
+mill made of two circular stones. The one on the bottom was called the
+bed stone and the upper one the runner. These were placed in a hoop with
+a spout for discharging the meal. A staff was let into the hole in the
+upper surface of the runner near the outer edge and its upper end
+through a hole in a board fastened to a joist above. The grain was put
+into the runner by hand. This type of mill, is one of the earliest ever
+known by man.
+
+Then every man tanned his own leather. The tan-vat was a huge tub which
+was sunk into the ground. A quantity of bark was quickly gotten each
+spring when the farmer cleared his land. This was first dried then
+brought in and on rainy days, the bark was stripped, shaved and pounded
+on a block of wood with an ax or mallet. Ashes were used in place of
+lime for taking off the hair from the skins of animals. They did not
+have fish-oil, so the settlers substituted bear's grease, or lard made
+from boiling the fat of these animals. This oil was used to make the
+leather soft and pliable. The leather was often very coarse, but it was
+tough and wore well. They made their blacking or polish for their shoes
+by mixing soot with lard. Not every man could make shoes, but everyone
+could make shoepacks, an article similar to the moccasin.
+
+Kercheval's father was a master weaver as well as a fine shoe maker. He
+made all the shoes worn by his family and would not let anyone else make
+his thread, as he thought no woman could spin it as well as he could. He
+made all the woodenware called set work. He hand-carved some of them,
+making grooves in which he fitted hoops to hold the staves in place.
+During the days when every man had to serve in some military service,
+the elder Kercheval was not strong enough to fight. The men brought all
+their firearms to him and he repaired them. He could straighten a
+crooked gun barrel with ease and file off any broken edges.
+
+Kercheval's father had been to school for only six weeks, yet he read,
+worked hard problems in mathematics and wrote letters, not only for
+himself, but for many of his friends. He drew up bonds, deeds of
+conveyance and wrote other articles for them. He taught his boy to use
+his hands, for Samuel tells that as a boy, he wove garters, belts and
+shot pouches. He, too, could make looms. He traded well, for he says he
+would swap a belt for a man's labor for a day, or give one to a man for
+making a hundred fence rails.
+
+An amusing custom developed among the German settlers regarding their
+weddings. Young men and women, termed "waiters," were selected to help
+officiate at a wedding. The groomsmen were proud to wear highly
+embroidered white aprons on such an occasion, for it was symbolic of
+protection to the bride. Each waiter tried to keep the bride from having
+her slippers stolen from her feet during the festivities. If she did
+sustain the loss the young man had to pay for it with a bottle of wine,
+since the bride's dancing depended upon its recovery.
+
+Characterized by their strong religious beliefs it was only natural for
+the Scotch-Irish Presbyterians to build their churches as they built
+their little homes. Opequon Church south of Winchester is thought by
+many to be the oldest church in the Valley. Not so with the Germans.
+They did not attempt to build separate houses of worship for a
+generation or more after coming to the new section but they did hold
+regular services in the homes of the settlers and waited until a better
+time to erect churches.
+
+There was an interesting custom among the Scotch-Irish at their
+weddings, too. It was called "running for the bottle." Usually the bride
+and groom went to the parson's home for the marriage ceremony, attended
+by their friends on horseback. At the conclusion of the ritual the young
+men took to their horses and dashed for the bride's father's house. The
+man on the fleetest horse was given a bottle of wine from which the
+returning bride and groom first drank and then it was passed on to
+others. In most instances the mad rush to the home was made in spite of
+numerous trees and small brush which were cut down to serve as obstacles
+in their paths.
+
+At Winchester these two distinct nationalities got along fairly well
+together. An example of their friendly relations is to be seen in their
+"War of the Guelphs and Ghibellines." The Dutch on St. Patrick's Day
+would parade through the village streets with effigies of St. Patrick
+wearing a necklace of Irish potatoes and his wife carrying an apron full
+of them.
+
+And then on the day of St. Michael, the patron of the Dutch, the Irish
+retaliated by holding aloft an effigy of the saint decorated with a
+necklace of sourkrout.
+
+As was to be expected these frolics occasionally went to the extreme and
+ended before the judge in the log cabin courthouse.
+
+It was hard for those early settlers to get such articles as salt, iron,
+steel and casting. There were no stores where they could purchase sugar,
+tea and hundreds of other necessities of today. Pelts, furs or skins
+were their only money before they had time to raise horses and cattle.
+In the Fall of the year, after all crops were harvested, every settler's
+family formed an association with some of their neighbors for starting a
+caravan.
+
+This consisted of two packhorses. A bell and collar was put on each
+horse, as were a pair of hobbles made from hickory withes. Bags were
+packed on the back of the saddles in which to bring back two bushels of
+alum salt, each bushel weighing eighty-four pounds. Each horse carried
+two bags on the return journey. This was not such a heavy load for a
+horse but one must remember the animal also had to carry its own food.
+Somewhere along the narrow trail, some of this grain was hidden until
+the return journey. Large pouches or bags were also carried in which
+were loaves of home-baked bread or "Journey Cake," a mixture of Indian
+meal and water baked on an iron skillet and boiled ham and cheese.
+
+The men traded first in Baltimore, Hagerstown and Cumberland. They also
+took along a cow and a calf, which was what they paid for one bushel of
+the much needed salt. While the salt was being weighed, no one was
+allowed to walk on the floor.
+
+
+
+
+Woodstock
+
+
+First called Muellerstadt after its founder Jacob Miller, Woodstock was
+granted its charter in 1761 by the General Assembly of Virginia. Miller
+was farsighted in his plans for the community and provided adequate
+building sites for homes and businesses.
+
+The historian Kercheval tells an interesting account of the appearance
+of Indians around Woodstock:
+
+     "In 1766, the Indians made a visit to the neighborhood of
+     Woodstock. Two men by the name of Sheetz and Taylor had taken
+     their wives and children into a wagon, and were on their way to
+     the fort. At the narrow passage, three miles south of
+     Woodstock, five Indians attacked them. The two men were killed
+     at the first onset, and the Indians rushed to seize the women
+     and children. The women, instead of swooning at the sight of
+     their bleeding, expiring husbands, seized their axes, and with
+     Amazonian firmness, and strength almost superhuman, defended
+     themselves and children. One of the Indians had succeeded in
+     getting hold of one of Mrs. Sheetz's children, and attempting
+     to drag it out of the wagon; but with the quickness of
+     lightning she caught her child in one hand, and with the other
+     made a blow at the head of the fellow which caused him to quit
+     his hold to save his life. Several of the Indians received
+     pretty sore wounds in this desperate conflict, and all at last
+     ran off, leaving the two women with their children to pursue
+     their way to the fort."
+
+When Lord Dunmore came to govern the colony of Virginia in 1772 the
+citizens passed a resolution endorsing his administration. They
+requested that a new county be formed from Frederick which would be
+called Dunmore County. Five years later, when he began to have trouble
+with the colonists the people of Woodstock instructed their burgess to
+get the name of their county changed to Shenandoah. This name is
+retained to the present time.
+
+About six miles from Woodstock a Mr. Wolfe erected a fort on Stony Creek
+years and years ago. He had a fine hunting dog and at the time of our
+story Indians were lurking in the neighborhood. This was during the
+period when the savages were endeavoring to rid the Valley of the white
+men.
+
+Mr. Wolfe went out hunting one morning and had not gone far before his
+dog began to run around and around him, blocking his path. Then he
+jumped up in front of his master, put his feet on his shoulders and
+seemed to try to stop Wolfe's progress. When the dog found he could not
+stop his master he ran back towards the fort, then back to his master,
+all the time whining a warning.
+
+The hunter suspected some danger, so he kept his hand on his gun and
+watched out for Indians. He soon saw two of them behind a tree.
+Evidently they were waiting for their man to come close enough for them
+to get a good shot at him. Mr. Wolfe began to walk backward, making a
+rapid retreat to the fort. Long afterwards someone asked Mr. Wolfe why
+he did not kill the old dog since his years of usefulness were over and
+he was apparently uncomfortable. He told the inquirer the story of how
+the animal had saved his life and added, "I would sooner be killed
+myself than suffer that dog to be killed."
+
+"There is a time to every purpose under the heaven--a time of war and a
+time of peace." So spoke one of Woodstock's most famous sons, the
+Reverend John Peter Gabriel Muhlenberg, in the Lutheran Church one
+Sunday morning after the Declaration of Independence had been issued.
+After delivering an inspired sermon taken from this text in which he
+reviewed his stand on liberty, he dramatically cast off his black pulpit
+robes and revealed to his astonished congregation his colonel's uniform
+of the Revolutionary army. He was about thirty years old then and had
+served the Woodstock flock for four years.
+
+Dr. Wayland in his book _The German Element in the Shenandoah Valley of
+Virginia_, suggests that the Rev. Mr. Muhlenberg was associated with the
+Episcopal as well as the Lutheran church and that "he seems beyond
+question to have received Episcopal ordination.... His connection with
+the Church of England was probably sought in order that his work as a
+clergyman might receive the readier and fuller sanction."
+
+Almost immediately after preaching his patriotic sermon he raised a
+regiment among the Valley folk. Known as the Eighth Virginia, or German
+Regiment, they saw hard service at Germantown, Brandywine and Monmouth
+as well as in some of the southern battlefields.
+
+Before the close of the war Muhlenberg was made a brigadier-general and
+after his retirement he lived in Pennsylvania, his original home before
+coming to the Valley of Virginia.
+
+A movement is under way at the present time to restore the little church
+of the Lutheran faith where the colonel made his firey sermon. Let us
+hope this may be accomplished so that we may catch the inspiration of
+his remarks.
+
+Woodstock saw the march of many feet during the War Between the States;
+almost constantly were the troops passing by, causing fields to be laid
+waste, crops to be confiscated and stock to be carried off. But the
+little town conceals her war scars well and today is a progressive
+community.
+
+Massanutten Academy is located here and draws boys from all over
+Virginia and a number of other States.
+
+
+THE LINCOLN FAMILY
+
+Contrary to popular belief, President Lincoln's forebears were not poor
+and shiftless, but were influential and prosperous Virginians who lived
+in the handsome old brick Colonial home which, in a fine state of
+preservation, is still standing, with the Lincoln family cemetery and
+slave burying-ground nearby.
+
+The Lincoln homestead is near the little village of Edom, not far from
+the Caverns of Melrose, and can be reached by turning west from U. S.
+Highway 11 at these caverns, six miles north of Harrisonburg. Visitors
+are welcome at this homestead. Exact directions as to how to reach it
+can be obtained in the Melrose Cavern's Lodge.
+
+Thomas Lincoln, father of President Lincoln, was born in this house.
+John Lincoln, great-grandfather of the President, moved with his family
+into Virginia in 1768 where, as an influential pioneer, he built the
+first brick unit of the beautiful Colonial home.
+
+John Lincoln was known as "Virginia John." Abraham Lincoln, his eldest
+son and grandfather of the President, lived in this homestead and was
+captain of a Virginia company during the Revolution.
+
+Captain Abraham Lincoln, with his son Thomas (father of the President)
+moved to Kentucky in 1782, leaving Jacob Lincoln, a brother of Captain
+Lincoln, in the Virginia homestead. Many Lincolns, descendants of Jacob
+and other sons and daughters of "Virginia John," now live near Melrose
+Caverns, in Harrisonburg and elsewhere in Rockingham county.
+
+On February 24th, 1829, when Melrose Caverns were known as "Harrison's
+Cave," Franklin Lincoln, grandson of Jacob and a cousin of President
+Lincoln, entered the caverns and, by the light of torches or candles,
+carved his name and the date. He later fought in the Civil War as a
+Confederate soldier.
+
+Also in these caverns is carved the name of John Lincoln, possibly John
+Lincoln, Jr., who was one of Jacob's four brothers, or perhaps "Virginia
+John" the pioneer, great-grandfather of the President. There is no date
+carved by the name of John Lincoln.
+
+In April, 1862, during the Civil War, a Federal soldier drew a rough
+portrait of President Lincoln with charcoal upon a wall farther back in
+the caverns. These Lincoln signatures and this crude portrait can be
+distinctly seen in Melrose Caverns by visitors today.
+
+
+
+
+New Market
+
+
+A little later in becoming settled than other Valley towns was New
+Market, the progressive little place situated at the intersection of the
+Valley Pike and Route 211 to Luray. Its charter was granted in 1785 as
+the result of efforts made by Peter Palsel, an early settler.
+
+Thomas Jefferson's father, Peter Jefferson, was among the party of
+surveyors who ran the land grant boundary for the Proprietor of the
+Northern Neck, Lord Fairfax. This was done in 1746. The old line is a
+short distance south of New Market.
+
+The town was the scene in 1864 of the battle in which the young and
+inexperienced but dauntless cadets from the Virginia Military Institute
+at Lexington took such prominent part. The wounded from their ranks were
+cared for by devoted women in nearby houses. And what a percentage there
+was either wounded or killed! Forty-six of the former and eight of the
+latter out of a corps of only two hundred and twenty-one!
+
+New Market is the center today of the caverns in the Valley, for
+Shenandoah Caverns are to the north and Endless to the south, while
+within a short drive you may reach Luray, Massanutten, Melrose and Grand
+Caverns. Accommodations for the tourists are numerous and fair
+throughout the vicinity.
+
+Several years ago a re-enactment of the Battle of New Market occurred in
+which the corps from the Virginia Military Institute pitted their
+strength against the United States Marines. Among the spectators to this
+stirring War Between the States encounter was the Secretary of the Navy.
+
+He was impressed with the majesty of the Shenandoah Valley and the
+legend of the name. Later he determined to name the new navy dirigible
+Shenandoah--"The Daughter of the Stars." For her christening a bottle of
+water from the meandering Shenandoah River was used. And on her maiden
+flight from her berth at Lakehurst the graceful ship flew over the
+lovely, peaceful Valley from whence came her name.
+
+
+ENDLESS CAVERNS
+
+On the first of October, 1879 two boys went hunting. Their dog chased a
+rabbit up the long slope of Mr. Reuben Zirkle's pasture. The rabbit ran
+for his life and disappeared over a huge rock.
+
+[Illustration: "THE CYPRESS GARDENS", A SCENE IN ENDLESS CAVERNS]
+
+The boys gave chase and boy-like, when they reached the rock and found
+no rabbit, they pushed aside the heavy stone. Imagine how their eyes
+bulged when they looked down into a great hole in the hill. Here was a
+find! Here was adventure, for who can resist exploring a cave? The boys
+thought no longer of the rabbit. They went in search of candles and a
+rope. Soon they were seeing for the first time the lovely and strange
+kingdom underground.
+
+The boys, no doubt like visitors, wondered how Nature had carved these
+miracles. Today science has answered the question for us and for the
+sake of those inquiring minds we will give in part the story of how
+Mother Nature builds her caves.
+
+"Thousands and thousands of years of surface waters, seeping down
+through the earth, have dissolved and carried away the limestone rock
+through various tiny cracks and crevices. As each drop worked its way
+downward it carried coloring matter--iron, maybe copper, which tints the
+beautiful columns. Tiny bits of limestone formed and gradually built
+them up from the bottom; these are called stalagmites. Others slowly
+forming from the tops of the cave hung there and are termed stalactites.
+Then through the years these grew until they met and formed the arches
+and columns."
+
+Though explorations were carried on for several years no end to the
+rooms was seen. One channel after another was found, and one room after
+another came into view, hence the name Endless Caverns.
+
+People from far and near came to see the wonders, and dances were held
+in Alexander's Ballroom. The musicians had a high rock on which they
+played their fiddles. Huge iron circles were fastened to the ceiling and
+candles placed in them for lights. One night one of the bold boys took a
+candle and pushed farther into the cave. By the weird light he saw a
+glistening lake, sparkling like diamonds. Upon investigation it turned
+out to be a pool of clearest water and it reflected the white glittering
+crystal roof which sheltered it. The name "Diamond Lake" was given it
+and it has been admired by thousands of visitors.
+
+Then for thirty years the beautiful caverns were closed to the public. A
+party of visitors came to the Valley. Colonel Edward Brown who stopped
+in New Market was fascinated with the stories of the old caverns. He
+bought the property and the next year the caverns were opened--in 1920.
+Today his son, Major E. M. Brown, is the progressive owner.
+
+"The old entrance house has been replaced by a unique cave house built
+of limestone boulders from the mountain side. Great gates of
+hand-wrought iron bar the head of the stone steps which lead downward. A
+lone lantern hangs from the arch of the stone roof and accurately
+placed, at the exact center of the top of the entrance, is a huge
+boulder in the shape of a keystone, set there by the Architect of all
+the earth many thousands of years ago."
+
+No one can describe the beautiful shapes and designs to be found in the
+caverns. They must be seen to be appreciated fully and no matter how
+many caves one has seen, he will not regret the magic time spent here.
+
+
+
+
+Luray
+
+
+The question is often asked as to the origin of the unusual name of the
+town of Luray. Legend disagrees as to its derivation. There are some who
+claim it came from the name of an early settler, Lewis Ramey. He was
+familiarly known as Lew Ramey and the contraction Lew Ray might have
+followed naturally. The site of Ramey's little log cabin is at the
+corner of Main and Court streets.
+
+Some citizens of the town insist that the Huguenots who escaped from
+France and finally migrated to the Valley named the new settlement
+Lorraine after their province in France and that Luray is a corruption
+of the former name.
+
+There are reminders near this town of former years of struggle. During
+the French and Indian War the settlers decided upon building "cellar
+forts" for protection against Indian raids. These cellars dug under the
+log homes were large enough for living quarters and were generally
+supplied with a spring of water. They were so constructed with rocks
+serving as a ceiling that even in case of fire in the house proper, the
+occupants of the cellar would be unhurt. Several of these ingenious
+little fortifications remain in Page County, Rhodes Fort and the Egypt
+House being good examples of them.
+
+In the Hawksbill neighborhood, not far from Luray, there lived a long
+time ago John Stone and his family. In 1758 the Indians came to his home
+while he was away. They had little difficulty in carrying off Mrs.
+Stone and her baby, a son about eight years old and another boy, George
+Grandstaff, who was sixteen.
+
+The marauders sacked other residences in the neighborhood and killed a
+number of persons. It is possible that when they set out for their own
+settlements some distance off they found Mrs. Stone's progress impeded
+because of carrying the baby. At any rate, they murdered those two and
+continued on their way with the boys.
+
+Three years later Grandstaff escaped as their prisoner and returned to
+Mr. Stone. Young Stone remained with the savages for a number of years
+and when he did come home he sold his father's property and with the
+money in his pockets he went back to the Indian village. No one ever
+heard of him afterwards.
+
+Luray was laid out in 1812 by William Staige Marye, son of Peter Marye,
+who built the first turnpike--a toll-road--to cross the Blue Ridge from
+Culpeper into the Shenandoah Valley. Near Luray is the Saltpetre Cave.
+During the War Between the States the Confederates established a nitrate
+plant there and used the products in their manufacture of ammunition.
+
+One of the most beautiful drives in Virginia is that leaving Luray,
+crossing the mountain and entering the Valley Pike at New Market.
+
+Of particular importance to this section are the Luray Caverns. An
+entertaining history is attached to them. As far back as 1793 there was
+knowledge of the existence of the caves, for Joseph Ruffner's son had
+explored several passages just about this time. Ruffner's property took
+on the name of Cave Hill.
+
+The Ruffners were among the largest landowners in the Valley, their
+property extending twelve miles on both sides of Hawksbill Creek. They
+received a part of the land through inheritance and bought other tracts.
+Dr. Henry Ruffner, a member of this distinguished family, was at one
+time President of Washington College, now Washington and Lee University
+at Lexington.
+
+Fighting during the War Between the States occurred near the town of
+Luray and about two miles south on the Lee Highway there is an old oak
+tree which marks the place where Sheridan's famous Valley ride was
+halted for a time.
+
+There are interesting landmarks remaining in the town today which have
+witnessed the pageant of history, among the most pretentious being
+"Aventine." This home originally occupied the present site of the
+Mymslyn Hotel.
+
+
+
+
+Stonewall Jackson's Valley Campaign
+
+
+Too much space must not be consumed in this book in presenting the facts
+regarding Jackson's Valley Campaign. We feel justified in devoting more
+than a comment to this notable feat of war, however, for some of the
+heaviest fighting of the four years' conflict took place on the land you
+may see in driving over the Valley Pike and along the Skyline Drive.
+
+At the outbreak of hostilities in the War Between the States Thomas
+Jackson left the chair of higher mathematics at the Virginia Military
+Institute and volunteered his services in the Virginia army. Educated at
+West Point and trained during the Mexican War he was a welcome addition
+to the Confederate forces, although no one anticipated the conspicuous
+role he would play in the subsequent events. At the early battle of
+First Manassas he earned the name of "Stonewall" because of his quiet,
+dignified and unafraid manner in the face of danger.
+
+Lt. Col. C. F. R. Henderson's invaluable two volumes, _Stonewall Jackson
+and the American Civil War_, were consulted and are the source quoted
+hereafter in giving the account of the Valley warfare. The First Brigade
+of the Virginia army was recruited from the Valley and participated
+under Jackson in the first battle of Manassas and for a long period of
+time thereafter.
+
+     "No better material for soldiers ever existed," said Henderson,
+     "than the men of the Valley. Most of them were of Scotch-Irish
+     descent, but from the more northern counties came many of
+     English blood, and from those in the center of Swiss and
+     German. But whatever their origin, they were thoroughly well
+     qualified for their new trade. All classes mingled in the
+     ranks, and all ages; the heirs of the oldest families, and the
+     humblest of the sons of toil; boys whom it was impossible to
+     keep in school, and men whose white beards hung below their
+     cross belts; youths who had been reared in luxury, and rough
+     hunters from their lonely cabins. They were a mountain people,
+     nurtured in a wholesome climate bred to manly sports, and
+     hardened by the free life of the field and forest. To social
+     distinctions they gave little heed. They were united for a
+     common purpose; they had taken arms to defend Virginia and to
+     maintain her rights; and their patriotism was proved by the
+     sacrifice of all personal consideration and individual
+     interest."
+
+After the first battle of Manassas the First Brigade was known as the
+"Stonewall Brigade."
+
+From July to November, 1861, Jackson spent the greater part of every day
+drilling the men under him and in trying to convert them into
+well-disciplined, obedient troops. During the first week in November he
+was sent from Manassas to command the Shenandoah Valley district and
+this meant parting from the soldiers whom he had reason to admire and
+who in turn held him in highest esteem. A short time later they were
+destined to reunite under circumstances which would try the courage of
+the brigade and commander. To the delight of all, the Stonewall Brigade
+was assigned to Winchester soon after Jackson established his
+headquarters there and for the next few months rigid training was given
+them again.
+
+About the middle of March 1862, Jackson abandoned Winchester. This was
+after some of the Union concentration near Manassas and Centreville was
+broken up and General Banks made no move to offer battle, so the
+Confederates withdrew without a fight and occupied Strasburg eighteen or
+twenty miles southward. The evacuation of Winchester was made
+reluctantly, for good roads in each direction connected the city with
+outlying districts, fertile farms nearby could furnish the invading army
+with rations and Banks could receive from or send troops to West
+Virginia or the army south of Washington. Feeling that Jackson's small
+force was not of any special danger, Shields' corps was sent in pursuit
+of the Confederates and most of Banks' troops were ordered to another
+field. Jackson continued up the Valley and stopped at Mount Jackson,
+hoping the Federals would follow.
+
+The Confederate general learned from Ashby, his cavalry commander, that
+the enemy was retreating. It was Lee's intention that the Union corps in
+the Valley be retained there so that assistance could not be offered
+McClellan, the Northern general who was maneuvering in the eastern part
+of Virginia with the ultimate aim of striking Richmond. McClellan hoped
+to attack the capital of the Confederacy by combining his army with
+that of McDowell, whom he could call to the area of war when necessary.
+So it was to be Jackson's duty to keep them in the Valley and perhaps to
+withdraw some of the Northern troops from near Richmond.
+
+On March 22nd Ashby with his troopers and a few guns engaged Shields in
+a skirmish just south of Winchester. He believed there was only a small
+force of Federals present, so well had Shields hidden his men, and he
+reported to Jackson that the troops were small in number. The next day
+Jackson sent reinforcements to Ashby and then followed later with his
+whole force in the direction of Kernstown which is south of Winchester
+and but a short distance off. There the battle of Kernstown began and
+continued until dark. Jackson's troops were defeated and retreated
+southward. As a result of this encounter Shields was reinforced and the
+strong Union force remained in the Valley.
+
+The Federal generals were apparently satisfied with the victory and in
+spite of urgings from the Secretary of War, Stanton, to pursue Jackson
+they remained inactive for nearly a month.
+
+Banks assumed the offensive on April 17th, and surprised Ashby, taking
+one of his companies prisoner. The Virginians burned the railroad
+station at Mount Jackson and fell back while the Union cavalry
+established themselves at New Market.
+
+The Confederate General Ewell had a force of 8,000 men on the Upper
+Rappahannock which is some distance east of the mountains. This corps
+was left at its location in order to rush to the defense of
+Fredericksburg or Richmond or across the mountains to the Valley.
+Jackson knew that he must not allow Banks to control the mountain pass,
+thus severing communication between the two Confederate forces. He
+determined upon a forced march for his men and on the eighteenth they
+reached Harrisonburg. He continued over to Swift Run Gap and encamped
+near there.
+
+Banks followed his cavalry to New Market, crossed over to Luray and
+seized the bridges, driving back a detachment of Jackson's men sent
+there to defend them. Later he sent two of his five brigades to
+Harrisonburg and the rest stayed at New Market.
+
+Jackson's next move was to McDowell, a town about twenty-seven miles
+northwest of Harrisonburg. The march was made in the most circuitous
+manner: from Swift Run Gap to Port Republic, to Brown's Gap which is
+about twelve miles southeast of their camp at Elk Run Valley, to
+Staunton and then west to McDowell. This strategy was used so that he
+might deceive Banks, Fremont and Milroy, the Federal commanders in and
+near the Valley, into thinking for a while that he was leaving the
+Valley to join forces at Richmond. Jackson proposed to strike each Union
+force located in this section of Virginia but he believed an encounter
+with Milroy commanding the weakest corps should be made before attacking
+Banks. The Battle of McDowell occurred on May 8th, and was a victory for
+Jackson. He followed the enemy in their retreat as far as Franklin. A
+squadron of Ashby's cavalry spent much time in blocking any of the
+passes which Fremont might use in crossing the mountains to reinforce
+Banks. Bridges were burned and rocks and trees were placed across the
+roadways. Jackson's object was thus thoroughly achieved:
+
+     "All combination between the Federal columns, except by long
+     and devious routes, had now been rendered impracticable; and
+     there was little fear that in any operations down the Valley
+     his own communications would be endangered. The McDowell
+     expedition had neutralized, for the time being, Fremont's
+     20,000 men; and Banks was now isolated, exposed to the combined
+     attack of Jackson, Ewell and Edward Johnson."
+
+Ewell in the meantime had left his post near Gordonsville and had moved
+into Swift Run Gap in order to go to Jackson if necessary. After the
+Battle of McDowell, Jackson returned to the Valley. Lee ordered him to
+make a movement against Banks as speedily as possible, to drive him
+towards Washington and appear ready to attack the Union capital. Thus he
+hoped to see some of the Northerners leave the vicinity of Richmond and
+return to defend their capital.
+
+Jackson entered the Valley at Mount Solon and pushed northward at once.
+Banks erected earthworks at Strasburg and considered himself well
+entrenched against the enemy. Ewell, with his Confederates, left Swift
+Run Gap and moved to Luray. Jackson moved north to New Market. The
+Confederates now organized into two divisions, Jackson's and Ewell's,
+numbering about 17,000 men. The troops under Jackson instead of
+continuing northward in their march turned east and crossed the
+Massanutten Mountain and headed north. On May 22nd the advanced guard
+camped within ten miles of Front Royal. This town was "held by a strong
+detachment of Banks' small army."
+
+     "Since they had left Mount Solon and Elk Run Valley on May 19th
+     the troops in four days had made just sixty miles. Such
+     celerity of movement was unfamiliar to both Banks and Stanton,
+     and on the night of the 22nd neither the Secretary nor the
+     General had the faintest suspicion that the enemy had as yet
+     passed Harrisonburg.... There was serenity at Washington....
+     The Secretary, ... saw no reason for alarm. His strategical
+     combinations were apparently working without a hitch....
+     Milroy's defeat was considered no more than an incident of 'la
+     petite guerre'. Washington seemed so perfectly secure that the
+     recruiting offices had been closed, and the President and
+     Secretary, anticipating the immediate fall of Richmond, left
+     for Fredericksburg the next day. McDowell was to march on the
+     26th, and the departure of his fine army was to be preceded by
+     a grand review....
+
+     "So on this night of May 22nd the President and his people were
+     without fear of what the morrow might bring forth. The end of
+     the rebellion seemed near at hand. Washington was full of the
+     anticipated triumph. The crowds passed to and fro exchanging
+     congratulations on the success of the Northern arms and the
+     approaching downfall of the slaveholders.... Little dreamt the
+     light-hearted multitude that, in the silent woods of the Luray
+     Valley, a Confederate army lay asleep beneath the stars. Little
+     dreamt Lincoln, or Banks, or Stanton, that not more than
+     seventy miles from Washington, and less than thirty from
+     Strasburg, the most daring of the enemies, waiting for the dawn
+     to rise above the mountains was pouring out his soul in
+     prayer."
+
+Banks' 10,000 men were distributed in this manner: at Strasburg the
+largest contingent, at Winchester a small group of infantry and cavalry,
+with two companies of infantry at Newtown, midway between Strasburg and
+Front Royal. At Rectortown, nineteen miles east of Front Royal was
+General Geary with 2,000 infantry and cavalry independent of Banks.
+Front Royal was held by Colonel Kenly of the First Maryland Regiment, U.
+S. A. On the morning of May 23rd the Confederates struck Kenly's small
+force. Every line of communication and reinforcement had been severed
+during the previous night and "within an hour after his pickets were
+surprised Kenly was completely isolated."
+
+Banks moved north from Strasburg towards Winchester before Jackson could
+scatter his troops along the route and cut off his retreat. Encounters
+took place at Newtown and Middletown and Kernstown during the early
+morning of May 24th. The battle of Winchester occurred the following
+day. Particularly hard fighting was done by both sides, but the surprise
+movements of Jackson during the past few days, the partial
+demoralization of the Union forces and the keen fighting of the
+Confederate divisions drove Banks' army from Winchester and on to
+Martinsburg.
+
+Lee sent instructions to Jackson to threaten an invasion of Maryland and
+an attack upon Washington at this excellent time. So on the 28th the
+Stonewall Brigade set out towards Harper's Ferry and at Charlestown they
+met a Federal force, routing them within twenty minutes. Ewell came up
+to support the Brigade and on the 29th the army of the Valley was
+encamped near Halltown. The greater part of the Federals crossed the
+Potomac River at Harper's Ferry. Jackson, however, learned that the
+Union soldiers were advancing to cut off his retreat; Shields' division
+was approaching Manassas Gap and Fremont had left Franklin and was about
+ten miles from Moorefield. Jackson felt that Lee's orders had been
+carried out and decided to retreat along the Valley Pike. The
+Southerners turned southward towards Winchester. En route Jackson found
+out that the small force left at Front Royal had been driven back and
+that Shields occupied the town. The Valley army was ordered to
+Strasburg, the First Brigade was called back from Charlestown, the
+prisoners and supplies were picked up at Winchester and moved southward.
+"From the morning of May 19 to the night of June 1, a period of fourteen
+days, the Army of the Valley had marched one hundred and seventy miles,
+had routed a force of 12,500 men, had threatened the North with
+invasions, had drawn off McDowell from Fredericksburg, had seized the
+hospitals and supply depots at Front Royal, Winchester, and Martinsburg,
+and finally, although surrounded on three sides by 60,000 men, had
+brought off a huge convoy without losing a single wagon."
+
+When the Federals learned that Jackson had moved south Shields was sent
+towards Luray from Front Royal. Fremont moved towards Woodstock. The
+Federal cavalry reached Luray on June 2nd and found that the enemy had
+already been there and burned the bridges, thus cutting off their
+approach to New Market. A part of the Confederates were repulsed on June
+2nd between Strasburg and Woodstock and the skirmishing continued the
+next day with the Confederates retreating to Mount Jackson and burning
+the bridges over the North Fork of the Shenandoah River. The Union
+troops tried to construct their pontoons across the stream but a driving
+rain and high waters prevented their doing so. This failure gave the
+rebels a day's respite.
+
+Jackson with his force passed from Harrisonburg over to Cross Keys and
+there bivouacked. The Northern generals looked upon this move as a
+retreat.
+
+On June 8th and 9th the battles of Cross Keys and Port Republic took
+place, victories for the Southerners. The Confederates moved on to
+Brown's Gap, a point a bit nearer Richmond. "The success which the
+Confederates had achieved was undoubtedly important. The Valley army,
+posted at Brown's Gap, was now in direct communication with Richmond.
+Not only had its pursuers been roughly checked, but the sudden and
+unexpected counter-stroke, delivered by an enemy whom they believed to
+be in full flight, had surprised Lincoln and Stanton as effectively as
+Shields and Fremont."
+
+Thus the plan of McClellan to fall upon Richmond had been postponed and
+a division of the Northern forces was made necessary to protect the
+Federal capital and to supply Banks with troops.
+
+Later in the month Jackson's division moved with great secrecy to join
+General Lee near Richmond--but that is a story for another time.
+
+
+
+
+Belle Boyd, the Spy
+
+
+"In a pretty storied house, the walls completely covered by roses and
+honeysuckle in luxuriant bloom" according to Belle Boyd herself, lived
+one of the most beautiful women and one of the most famous spies in all
+history.
+
+Martinsburg, her home in the beautiful Shenandoah Valley, was only a
+village then and she tells us about her neighbors and her childhood--"It
+was all golden and I was surrounded by devoted and beloved parents and
+brothers and sisters ... our neighbors are some of the best families of
+the Old Dominion descended from such ancestors as the Fairfaxes and
+Washingtons."
+
+When Belle was only twelve she was sent to Mount Washington Seminary in
+Washington. At sixteen her education was finished and she made her
+debut. She wrote how brilliant were the Congressional and Senate balls
+where both Northern and Southern belles met and learned to love each
+other as sisters.
+
+Then came the dark days of Secession. Belle's own father was among the
+first to enlist in the defense of Virginia. Belle returned home where
+with other ladies she helped raise funds with which to equip the
+Confederate soldiers. The colors were raised and on them one read these
+words, "Our God, Our Country and Our Women."
+
+Things were dull for Belle after her father and the boys marched away to
+Harper's Ferry. Soon she went to visit them where she enjoyed the social
+life until messages came saying the Federal troops were approaching. She
+was sent home and scarcely had she arrived before the Southern troops
+withdrew to Falling Waters, near her home. She heard the distant boom of
+cannon and quickly there followed the battle of Martinsburg. After a
+skirmish of five hours, Belle saw General Jackson's troops retreat.
+
+Hard upon them were the Federals entering the village with flags flying
+and the fifes playing the now despised "Yankee Doodle."
+
+Dawned the Fourth of July and Belle woke to see the Yankee flags flying
+from many homes. She heard the drunken soldiers as they planned to force
+their way into homes whose doors and blinds were shut tight. Blows began
+to batter down doors and those of the Boyd home were splintered as well
+as those of their neighbors.
+
+Some one had told the Federals that the walls of Belle's room were
+covered with rebel flags. But though they searched none were found.
+Belle's Negro maid had taken them down and carefully hidden them. The
+soldiers were furious and began to break furniture, glass ornaments, and
+abuse the Virginia sympathizers. Then they went out and began to raise
+the United States flag over the Boyd home. This was more than Mrs. Boyd
+could stand, so she spoke: "Men, every member of my household will die
+before that flag shall be raised over us." Let us read Belle's account
+of what followed:
+
+     "Upon this, one of the soldiers, thrusting himself forward
+     addressed my mother in language so offensive as it is
+     impossible to conceive. I could stand it no longer, my
+     indignation was aroused beyond control, my blood was literally
+     boiling in my veins, I drew out my pistol and shot him. He was
+     carried away mortally wounded and soon after he expired."
+
+Then the Boyd home was set on fire, but it was hastily put out. The
+Northern commander quickly arrived and an investigation followed. After
+a long and lengthy trial, during which time the Boyd home was guarded by
+sentries, the officer declared Belle had acted as any normal person
+would have under similar circumstances.
+
+From this time on, Belle gave herself to the Confederate Cause. She met
+and charmed the Federal officers. She remembered their names and got
+them to tell her their plans. These Belle carefully wrote down and sent
+to General J. E. B. Stuart. Soon she was under suspicion and one of her
+letters was seized by the enemy. She was sent for, arrested and asked if
+she had written the letter. She acknowledged it, was rebuked and the
+Articles of War regarding such deeds were read to her. Again a
+trial--and a dismissal.
+
+Belle was undaunted. She not only continued to pick up valuable
+information, but she picked up small side arms and pistols and these,
+along with the information, found their way into the Southern lines.
+
+While on a visit to Front Royal the first battle of Manassas was fought.
+The wounded were rushed into Front Royal and Belle found herself the
+matron of the large hospital. Soldiers told how she worked night and
+day, tirelessly giving of herself to comfort and help "the boys." After
+eight weeks of such a strenuous life, Belle had to go home for a much
+needed rest.
+
+Before her mother thought she was strong enough, Belle left to visit her
+father who was stationed at Manassas. Soon she was riding as a courier
+back and forth for General Jackson and General Beauregard.
+
+On one occasion Belle was in Front Royal waiting for an opportunity to
+go to Richmond where her family had gone. She had secured passes from
+some of her Federal friends and she was staying in the same house in
+which General Shields was stopping. Belle's room was over the
+living-room where the officers were making plans. A small hole in the
+closet floor gave her a good view of the men--and served to let her hear
+every word of their next maneuvers. Belle listened until one o'clock,
+writing down in cypher each plan. Then she carefully stole down the back
+steps, saddled a horse in the backyard and was off, fifteen miles, to
+carry the message.
+
+Twice she was held up by Federal sentinels and twice she showed them
+Federal passes. She arrived safely back in Front Royal before day, as
+fresh as a "morning flower."
+
+We cannot give all of her escapades or her narrow escapes. Once she sped
+through Front Royal with a message for General Jackson, her white sun
+bonnet and white apron against a blue dress making her a target for the
+Federals. Several times she felt bullets tear her wide billowing skirt,
+but she kept on until she had reached the General--giving him the
+position of the enemy: General Banks, at Strasburg with 4,000 troops,
+General White marching to Winchester and General Fremont approaching the
+Valley--all planning to "bottle up" Jackson's force.
+
+Quickly the Confederates made plans which resulted in victory and
+General Jackson wrote her, "Miss Belle Boyd--I thank you for myself and
+for the Army for the immense service that you have rendered your country
+this day. Hastily your friend, T. J. Jackson, C. S. A."
+
+Romance like danger courted her wherever she was. Finally in 1864 she
+decided to go to England. President Davis gave her important papers for
+Southern sympathizers there. She sailed from Wilmington, North Carolina,
+aboard the "Greyhound." Vivid pictures are given of the crew throwing
+overboard bales of cotton, but even this did not enable the ship to
+outrun the fast Union vessels. Captain Bier also dropped a keg of money,
+over thirty thousand dollars in gold, in order to lighten the cargo.
+When Belle saw they could not avoid capture she destroyed her dispatch
+and managed to put into a belt many gold dollars which belonged to her
+and the captain of the boat. Let us read her description of the Federal
+officer who said he must take over command of the "Greyhound":
+
+"I confess my attention was riveted by a gentleman--the first whom I had
+met in my hour of distress. His dark brown hair hung down on his
+shoulders, his eyes were large and bright. Those who judge beauty by
+regularity of feature would not only have pronounced him strictly
+handsome, but the fascination of his manner was such that my heart
+yielded." He begged Belle to consider herself still a passenger, rather
+than a prisoner, which evidently she did.
+
+There was a moon, a soft breeze "which swept the surface of the ocean
+until it was like a vast bed of sparkling diamonds." Lieutenant
+Hardinge, the Federal officer, quoted poetry from Shakespeare and Byron
+and before the vessel reached Boston, Belle had given her heart and her
+promise to marry the lieutenant.
+
+While their own course of true love seemed to run smoothly enough
+various forces concentrated to keep them apart.
+
+First of all, soon after arriving in Boston Captain Bier escaped. And
+while Belle took the credit for that, Lieutenant Hardinge was under
+suspicion. Besides, while Belle was being treated courteously in Boston
+her betrothed had gone to Washington in her behalf. The newspapers of
+the day flaunted the stories of the beautiful Rebel Spy and everywhere
+she went great crowds pushed themselves upon her.
+
+When Hardinge reached Washington he begged Gideon Welles, Secretary of
+the Navy, permission for Miss Boyd to visit Canada. This was granted and
+a telegram ordered an escort for her and her maid. However, notice was
+given her that if she were caught again in the United States she would
+be shot.
+
+Her lover was captured next and arrested for aiding Captain Bier in
+escaping. Finally, he went to Paris in search of the beautiful woman who
+had promised to marry him. After some time Belle, who was in Liverpool,
+learned where he was. She wrote to him and they met in London; they were
+married in St. James' Church. There was a large and brilliant breakfast
+at which a huge wedding cake was cut. Lieutenant Hardinge promised to
+run the blockade and carry pieces of wedding cake to his wife's friends.
+This he did when he arrived in Wilmington. Later he was arrested in
+Baltimore, charged with being a deserter and was sent to prison.
+
+Belle interested herself in his behalf and we are told that her charms
+and the termination of the war secured his release. And so they lived
+happily ever after!
+
+      *      *      *      *      *
+
+In the foregoing account of the fearless work done by Belle Boyd and of
+her visit to Front Royal during the Battle of Manassas we are reminded
+of an inhabitant of the latter place, a Mr. McLean. Rumor has it that
+the gentleman resided so close to the scene of battle--and it was a
+bloody encounter--he resolved to quit the place for a quieter section of
+Virginia. He had a distinct distaste for battles and bloodshed. So he
+moved his family to Appomattox County in Virginia and watched the scene
+of war with a feeling of comparative safety. The reader has guessed the
+rest of the story.
+
+A little previous to April 9th, 1865 the Union and Confederate forces
+met at a spot not far from the courthouse and negotiations were started
+for the surrender of General Lee, in command of the Confederates. And on
+the ninth the surrender was made at the McLean house which marked the
+cessation of war in Virginia. Poor Mr. McLean was present at the
+beginning and conclusion of the fighting!
+
+
+
+
+Harrisonburg
+
+
+Harrisonburg is called the Friendly City and its people are noted for
+their hospitality. It is near famous caverns and historic battlefields.
+It was named in honor of Thomas Harrison who had fifty acres of his land
+surveyed and laid out into lots and streets. It might also be called the
+center of a large German element whose forefathers settled much of the
+surrounding country. Harrisonburg is the county-seat of Rockingham
+county, which was formed from Augusta in 1778. This is the third largest
+county in Virginia.
+
+These people have always been among the sturdiest and bravest in the
+Valley. They gave the best they had to develop their new homes in a new
+country and when they were called upon to fight in the French and
+Indian War, there were no braver men to be had nor could any endure more
+hardships than they.
+
+During the Revolutionary War they were among the first to respond to the
+call for volunteers. They were among the first to resent the closing of
+the Boston Harbor by the British in 1774. We read an old account or
+notation of Felix Gilbert who kept a shop near the town of Harrisonburg.
+He agreed to take food-stuffs from his neighbors and send it to the
+relief of the Bostonians. One of those entries, made in 1775, reads:
+
+     "Rece'd for the Bostonians; Of Patrick Frazier 1 bushel of
+     wheat, of Jos. Dictom 2 bushels of wheat, of James Beard 1 bu.
+     of wheat, Geo. Clarke 1 bu. wheat, Robt. Scott and Sons, 2 bu.
+     wheat."
+
+
+MASSANUTTEN CAVERNS
+
+The owners of the Massanutten Caverns call them the "gem of the cavern
+world," for they are a combination of the beautiful and the unusual.
+They are located east of Harrisonburg on the Spotswood Trail.
+
+These caverns are of rather recent discovery. In 1892 during a thriving
+limestone industry some workmen blasted rock in the foothills and after
+the discharge of dynamite was over they looked into a fairyland of
+strange rooms and strange formations.
+
+The operator of the caverns called the entrance "Discovery Gate" and
+planned the route through the underground so that visitors begin their
+journey where the discovery was made.
+
+Vacationists find themselves unloading their luggage and remaining
+either overnight or for longer periods of time when they see the
+facilities offered there. The accommodations include a golf course and
+swimming pool as well as a lodge and cottages.
+
+
+GRAND CAVERNS
+
+Back in 1804 Bernard Weyer discovered the unusual caves situated on a
+bluff belonging to his neighbor Mr. Mohler. Nearly a century before, the
+courageous "Sir Knights of the Golden Horseshoe" had passed by this part
+of the Blue Ridge--within ten miles of the entrance of the caverns,
+perhaps, and because of the layout of the land never suspected the
+underground "Buried City." Today these are called Grand Caverns and are
+located between Elkton and Mt. Sidney, the latter town being on the
+Lee-Jackson Highway.
+
+Young Weyer was a great hunter who enjoyed roaming the fields and
+hillsides in search of game. The historian Kercheval tells the story of
+the day when Weyer went to find an elusive ground-hog, having previously
+set a trap for it. The animal not only had not been captured but for
+some time had made a successful getaway with each trap set for it. Weyer
+decided to dig for the ground-hog hide-out. "A few moments' labor
+brought him to the antechamber of this stupendous cavern, where he found
+his traps safely deposited." Not content with eleven pages of flattering
+and minute descriptions of every passageway known then, Kercheval used
+another page with "Note A" and "Note B" which described later
+explorations. This makes interesting reading for those who have either
+visited the Caverns or have not had that privilege and plan to see them.
+In these accounts he included Congress Hall, The Infernal Regions,
+Washington's Hall, The Church, Jefferson's Hall and numerous others.
+
+_The Historical Collections of Virginia_ by Henry Howe gives a vivid
+picture of Weyer's Cave and the author further states:
+
+     "A foreign traveller who visited the cave at an annual
+     illumination, has, in a finely written description, the
+     following notice:
+
+     " ... Weyer's Cave is in my judgment one of the great natural
+     wonders of this new world; and for its eminence in its own
+     class, deserves to be ranked with the Natural Bridge and
+     Niagara, while it is far less known than either.... For myself,
+     I acknowledge the spectacle to have been most interesting; but,
+     to be so, it must be illuminated, as on this occasion. I had
+     thought that this circumstance might give to the whole a toyish
+     effect; but the influence of 2,000 or 3,000 lights on these
+     immense caverns is only such as to reveal the objects, without
+     disturbing the solemn and sublime obscurity which sleeps on
+     everything. Scarcely any scenes can awaken so many passions at
+     once, and so deeply. Curiosity, apprehension, terror, surprise,
+     admiration, and delight, by turns and together, arrest and
+     possess you. I have had before, from other objects, one simple
+     impression made with greater power; but I never had so many
+     impressions made, and with so much power, before. If the
+     interesting and the awful are the elements of the sublime, here
+     sublimity reigns, as in her own domain, in darkness, silence,
+     and deeps profound."
+
+Bear in mind that this account was given long before 1850 and that Grand
+Caverns was first known as Weyer's Cave.
+
+We learned that the Cave was used as a source of income by its owners
+first in 1836, when the large chambers were converted into temporary
+dance halls for the countryside youth. Mentioned above is the fact that
+the caverns were lighted once a year and admission was charged on this
+occasion. About 1925 the passages were lighted properly and tourists
+began their trek to this wonder of nature.
+
+A modern note is to be found in the name "Linbergh Bridge"--one not
+mentioned as such by any of the early writers!
+
+
+MASSANETTA SPRINGS
+
+One of the most delightful places in all the Valley is Massanetta
+Springs. It is one of those beauty spots which one finds after going
+through Swift Run Gap, famous for being the first gap through which came
+the English with Governor Spotswood and his Knights of the Golden
+Horseshoe. It was through here, too, that General George Washington
+passed on horseback in 1784.
+
+Long ago these springs were known as Taylor Springs and during the War
+Between the States the wounded soldiers were cared for there. Many
+famous people lived in and around this lovely spring. We are told that
+Daniel Boone's wife lived near here, and that Abraham Lincoln's father,
+Thomas Lincoln, was born not more than twelve miles away on Linville
+Creek. Not far away is Singer's Glen where some of the first early
+American hymns and songs were published.
+
+Today various religious denominations hold summer conferences at the
+Springs.
+
+
+
+
+Staunton
+
+
+Near Lewis's Fort a settlement grew up and in 1749 a town was chartered.
+It was named Staunton in honor of Lady Staunton, wife of Governor Gooch,
+the official who had given so many land grants to Lewis and his Scotch
+neighbors. At that time, the town was the county-seat of Augusta (formed
+from Orange County in 1738), whose boundaries swept far to the west. Old
+records show that one time the court adjourned in Staunton and
+reconvened at Fort Duquesne, the colonial outpost which has long since
+become Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania.
+
+If one would search further, he would find this was done during the
+French and Indian troubles. Five Chiefs, or rather several of the Five
+Nations, signed this order or treaty and it is to be seen among other
+historical documents in the Court House in Staunton.
+
+After the Legislature fled from Charlottesville to Staunton during
+Tarleton's Raid, that body met and held its sessions in old Trinity
+Episcopal Church. During this short time, Staunton was called "the
+Capital of Virginia."
+
+The area around Staunton is full of War Between the States history too,
+referred to in other places.
+
+Woodrow Wilson was born here in a lovely old Presbyterian manse which is
+now a shrine to one of the greatest Presidents of the United States.
+Here, annually, thousands of Americans come to honor him.
+
+[Illustration:--_Courtesy Virginia State Chamber of Commerce_
+
+"THE MANSE"
+
+WOODROW WILSON'S BIRTHPLACE, STAUNTON, VA.]
+
+The town is a center of culture, for there are located many splendid
+schools; among them, for girls are Mary Baldwin and Stuart Hall.
+Staunton Military Academy and nearby Augusta Military Academy are
+recognized as outstanding schools for boys. There are two business
+schools, Dunsmore and Templeton Business College. The one for the deaf
+and blind is a State institution.
+
+Tarleton entered Charlottesville on the fourth day of June in 1781.
+Jefferson's term as governor expired four days later. Ex-Governor
+Patrick Henry had been his guest while the Legislature was meeting
+there. He now hastened to Staunton where the Legislators had fled from
+Charlottesville. Mr. Jefferson, according to one historian, concealed
+himself in a cave in Carter's Mountain and Patrick Henry, in his flight
+to Staunton, met Colonel Lewis and told him of how the Legislators had
+fled Charlottesville upon Tarleton's invasion.
+
+Colonel Lewis, not knowing who Patrick Henry was, replied "If Patrick
+Henry had been in Albemarle, the British Dragoons never would have
+passed over the Rivanna River."
+
+The Legislators were badly demoralized, for they feared Tarleton would
+come to Staunton. Many of them left during the night and went to the
+hospitable home of Colonel George Moffett. During Mr. Henry's hasty
+changes he had the misfortune to lose one of his boots. While eating
+breakfast the next morning, Mrs. Moffett remarked, "There was one member
+of the Legislative body whom I knew would not run." The question was
+asked by one of the party, "Who is he?" Her reply was, "Patrick Henry,"
+at that moment a gentleman with one boot colored perceptibly. The party
+soon left and after their departure a servant rode up and asked for Mr.
+Henry, saying he had forgotten his boot. Of course Mrs. Moffett knew
+whom the boot fitted.
+
+A tale made more popular perhaps because of a recent revival of interest
+in Salem witchcraft is that of a woman who lived years ago in Augusta
+County and who was a great aunt of Governor James McDowell of Rockbridge
+County. She was born Mary McDowell and married James Greenlee.
+
+It is recounted that she was an unusually attractive and intelligent
+young woman but was considered highly eccentric in her behavior.
+Neighbors thought that an early love affair had contributed something to
+her peculiar manner. Be that as it may, she was regarded by her
+acquaintances as a witch. They believed she had made a written contract
+with the devil--a contract drawn up in duplicate form so that each party
+might retain a copy!
+
+Once at a quilting party in her home she urged one of the quilters to
+take a second piece of cake and laughingly remarked that "the mare that
+does double work should be best fed." The women misconstrued this to be
+an acknowledgment that she was a witch who rode a mare at night on her
+excursions to meet the devil. The rumor of her evil activities rapidly
+spread throughout the countryside.
+
+[Illustration:--_Courtesy Virginia State Chamber of Commerce_
+
+WOODROW WILSON'S BED, STAUNTON, VA.]
+
+The neighborhood thought she was capable of placing curses upon them and
+attributed such tragedies as fires, loss of family or stock, or poor
+crops to the unfortunate woman.
+
+The fact that she was never brought before the court with the accusation
+of being a witch was due in large measure to the standing of the family.
+That does not mean, however, that Mrs. Greenlee did not live a wretched
+existence or that failure to declare her a witch made the people less
+afraid of her powers.
+
+While he was President of the United States, Woodrow Wilson returned to
+Staunton and placed a tablet on the wall of the First Presbyterian
+Church in memory of his father, Dr. Joseph Wilson, a former minister.
+The church in which Dr. Wilson used to preach and in which the President
+was christened serves now as the Chapel of Mary Baldwin College.
+
+An interesting old home in Staunton is the Stuart House, located on
+Lewis Street. It was planned by the great architect and builder Thomas
+Jefferson. Mr. A. H. Stuart, the owner, was a member of President
+Fillmore's Cabinet.
+
+The main building of the School for the Deaf and Blind is an unexcelled
+example of Doric architecture. During the War Between the States it was
+used as a hospital.
+
+
+
+
+Waynesboro and Afton
+
+
+"Mad Anthony Wayne," the Revolutionary hero, has a town named for him in
+Virginia--Waynesboro. This is a beautiful place which has become even
+more popular upon completion of the projected Skyline Drive southward
+from Swift Run Gap.
+
+The State Conservation Commission has erected an historical marker which
+states briefly:
+
+     "Here on one of the first roads west of the Blue Ridge, a
+     hamlet stood in colonial times. The Walker exploring expedition
+     started from this vicinity in 1748. Here, in June 1781, the
+     Augusta militia assembled to join Lafayette in the East. A town
+     was founded in 1797. It was established by law in 1801 and
+     named for General Anthony Wayne."
+
+In 1854 the countryside was very much excited over the trip made by the
+first train travelling west of the Blue Ridge. Crowds gathered to see
+the phenomenon and half of them left in fright, we are told, as the iron
+horse chugged off. Incidentally, mules hauled the first passenger engine
+over the high mountains and set it down for its memorable exodus.
+
+For the most part the buildings one sees in the town have been erected
+since 1861, for in that year a devastating fire wiped out the landmarks
+of pioneer days.
+
+The last battle in Northern Virginia during the War Between the States
+occurred here in March 1865, just about a month before the surrender of
+General Lee at Appomattox. Hoping to protect Rockfish Gap, General Early
+had his Confederate forces quartered in the town. Sheridan, the Union
+General, surprised him and captured more than half the rebels.
+
+Furnishing power for the large manufacturing interests are the numerous
+springs of Waynesboro, which have a capacity of millions of gallons of
+water a day. If you are unfamiliar with springs such as Virginia has,
+you should stop at Brunswick, Baker's, or Basic Lithia Springs for an
+unusual sight.
+
+Swannanoa, one of the finest estates in Virginia, is on top of the
+mountain between Waynesboro and Afton. It is said by numbers of people
+that two of the loveliest views in America may be had from this point:
+Rockfish and Shenandoah valleys. You will probably agree with the
+statement when you stand where you may get a commanding view of the
+country below you. The large home on the estate is now a country club.
+Nearby is the site of "Old Mountain Top Tavern," widely known years ago
+for its fine hospitality. A group met at the tavern in 1818 to decide
+the location of the proposed University of Virginia. Among them were
+Madison, Monroe, Marshall and Jefferson.
+
+Driving along the roads you see some of the finest peach orchards in
+Virginia, for the section is famed for its high quality fruit. Not only
+do peaches abound here, but you will also see splendid apple orchards.
+If you happen along at the right season you will be able to stop at a
+roadside market to buy the renowned Albemarle Pippins--the apples which
+are grown for miles around--and some of the luscious peaches.
+
+
+
+
+Natural Bridge
+
+
+"Who first discovered Natural Bridge?" is a question which nearly every
+one asks, and a second one is, "How high is it?"
+
+The answer to the first is given in an old Indian legend which reads
+something like this: Long, long ago, years before the Princess
+Pocahontas saved the life of Captain John Smith, there was a terrible
+war between some of the tribes. The Shawnees were noted for their
+cruelty and they joined forces with the Powhatans. They roamed through
+Virginia and fell upon the Monocans, a more friendly tribe.
+
+[Illustration: NATURAL BRIDGE]
+
+There had been a famine that year and the Monocans were weakened by
+hunger and many of their braves fell in battle. After a long conflict,
+the Monocans decided to retreat and they gave way before the enemy. But
+they were pursued relentlessly. The Monocans sought refuge in a strange
+forest and suddenly they came upon a high chasm, whose steep walls were
+of rock. The braves peered over and were made dizzy when they saw the
+great distance to the bottom below, where a swiftly running river looked
+like a small silver ribbon.
+
+Even the strongest could not have jumped across the wide chasm, for it
+was over a hundred feet wide. Their swiftest scouts ran hither and yon,
+but each brought back word that there was no way around.
+
+The Monocans were in despair and in their distress threw themselves upon
+the ground and cried aloud to the Great Spirit to spare their lives from
+the approaching enemy.
+
+One of the braves arose and went again to the edge of the cliff. He
+stared down at his feet, then turned and shouted, "Our prayers have been
+granted us--The Great Spirit has built for us a bridge across the great
+abyss."
+
+"Be careful," cried one of the men. "Send the squaws and children first
+to test it. If they cross in safety, then we will know it will be heavy
+enough to carry our weight also."
+
+And so the women and children passed over into the shelter of the forest
+beyond. Even as they went they could hear the war whoops of the
+advancing enemy.
+
+But the Monocans were refreshed in spirit. Their courage had returned,
+for was not the Great Spirit on their side? The braves quickly took
+positions on the bridge, each feeling he stood on sacred ground, and
+like the Greeks of old at Thermopylae they turned and faced their enemy
+and fought victoriously. From that day, we are told, they called it "The
+Bridge of God" and worshipped it.
+
+The first white man to own Natural Bridge was Thomas Jefferson, and one
+may see the original land grant still hanging on the walls of Monticello
+which reads, in part:
+
+     "Know ye that for divers good causes and considerations, but
+     more Especially for and in Consideration of the sum of Twenty
+     Shillings of good and lawful money for our use paid to our
+     Receiver General of our Revenues, in this our Colony and
+     Dominion of Virginia, We have Given, Granted and Confirmed, and
+     by these presents for us, our heirs and successors, Do give,
+     Grant and confirm unto Thomas Jefferson, one certain Tract or
+     parcel of land, containing 157 acres, lying and being in the
+     County of Botetourt, including the Natural Bridge on Cedar
+     Creek, a branch of James River ..."
+
+We are told that George Washington surveyed the land in 1750, and while
+there he climbed up 23 feet and carved his initials "G. W." on the
+southeast walls; the guide today will try to point them out to the
+visitor. A story is also told that George Washington threw a stone from
+the bottom of Cedar Creek over the Bridge. Evidently he liked to test
+his strength by such sports, for it is said that he threw a Spanish
+dollar across the Rappahannock River opposite the town of
+Fredericksburg.
+
+When this story was told to the late President Cleveland, he replied, "I
+do not know about that, but I am well assured he threw a sovereign
+across the Atlantic."
+
+In 1927 another stone was found which scientists think proved George
+Washington surveyed that territory. This stone is a large one and also
+bears his initials which are engraved in a surveyor's cross. Evidently
+he measured the height of the Bridge by dropping a line from the edge of
+the bridge to the cross below.
+
+Thomas Jefferson called his purchase the "most Sublime of Nature's
+works." He visited it many times and during his presidency, in 1802, he
+surveyed the place with his own hands. He later built a log cabin which
+contained two rooms and one of them was always kept ready for a visitor.
+Many famous people visited there and the list includes such men as John
+Marshall, James Monroe, Henry Clay, Sam Houston and Martin Van Buren.
+While in France, Jefferson collected many plants and shrubs which he
+sent to America; many of these were planted at the Bridge, and some are
+still in existence.
+
+Cedar Creek, the parent of the Bridge, has been busy for thousands of
+years cutting a bit deeper each year.
+
+The answer to the second question, "How high is it?," is found on a
+Government bench which carries a brass plate, "1,150 feet above the
+sea." It is 245 feet high and is 90 feet wide.
+
+Boys and men are especially interested in the exciting story of how Dr.
+Chester Reeds actually measured the wonderful Bridge. He had a special
+basket built which was strong enough to hold him. Two hundred and fifty
+feet of rope was fastened to it and run through a pulley and one end of
+it was tied to a fence post. He was very dizzy at first and could not
+take pictures of the side walls of the bridge. Gradually he became
+accustomed to turning around and was able to get many fine ones at
+various angles and of the massive supporting walls, the huge slabs of
+limestone and some of the foliage.
+
+Natural Bridge is a monument to the patience of Old Mother Nature and
+her skill as an artist. Today, one wonders at the deep gorge--by night,
+with modern electrification, one is spellbound by its beauty--and when
+sweet music fills the glen with its symphonies one's soul is lifted to
+the Greatest Artist of all--to God in reverence and gratitude.
+
+
+
+
+Rockbridge
+
+
+Rockbridge County takes its name from the celebrated Natural Bridge and
+was formed from Augusta and Botetourt counties. A branch of the James
+River is called North River and this stream waters the county, flowing
+diagonally across it. Some of the richest soil in all the Valley is
+found in Rockbridge. Lexington, which is the county-seat, takes its name
+from the town of Lexington in Massachusetts and was founded in 1778. The
+first buildings of the old town were mostly destroyed by fire in 1794
+and were replaced with substantial brick buildings. An Englishman who
+was visiting America long ago described the little town in these words:
+
+     "The town as a settlement, has many attractions. It is
+     surrounded by beauty, and stands at the head of a valley
+     flowing with milk and honey. House rent is low, provisions are
+     cheap, abundant and of the best quality."
+
+The settlers were mostly the Scotch-Irish and of the Presbyterian faith.
+As soon as they had cleared the lands and built their homes they planted
+orchards, built their barns and settled down. These were thoughtful men
+and women who kept their emotions under constant guard. Yet when
+occasion arose, they spoke simply and clearly and were unafraid. They
+detested civil tyranny and as they were far away from the seat of
+government, to a certain extent they made their own laws and rigidly
+adhered to them.
+
+They were among the first in the Valley of Virginia to rally to the
+defense of their country during the War of the Revolution.
+
+In their moral life, they were almost Puritanical. This was founded on
+religious principle and often they were considered austere and stern.
+Yet those who knew them, felt the kindness and devotion to which they
+did not give expressions in words. To them, deeds meant more than
+promises. Though they reproved one without a smile, their eyes often
+expressed understanding and sympathy and the offending one felt the deep
+love which had moved the other to speak--always for the good of the
+offender. And while some other fault would rear its head, not often was
+the offense repeated which had called forth the reproach.
+
+The men and women were deeply religious and family prayers were the
+first order of the day. As soon as homes were established provisions
+were made for religious services to be held. Tiny churches dotted the
+Valley wherever the Scotch-Irish settled. If the church was far away, as
+it was from some, on meeting day young and old mounted their horses and
+rode the intervening miles for the long services.
+
+Many of these old Presbyterian churches are still standing today and
+they serve as monuments to that hardy race of men and women who braved
+all for religious freedom and for civic liberty. The building of these
+churches meant such labor as we of the present generation cannot know.
+There were no roads and no sawmills. An old historian tells us how one
+church was built:
+
+     "The people of Providence Congregation packed all the sand used
+     in building their church from a place six miles distant, sack
+     and sack, on the backs of horses! And what is almost
+     incredible, the fair wives and daughters of the congregation
+     are said to have undertaken this part of the work, while the
+     men labored at the stone and timber. Let not the
+     great-granddaughters of these women blush for them however
+     deeply they would blush themselves to be found in such
+     employment. For ourselves, we admire the conduct of these
+     females; it was not only excusable, but praiseworthy--it was
+     almost heroic! It takes Spartan mothers to rear Spartan men.
+     These were among the women whose sons and grandsons sustained
+     Washington in the most disastrous period of the Revolution."
+
+There was little social life in those early days such as their eastern
+cousins knew along the James River. Except for their church festivals,
+they did little entertaining. Twice a year they held the Lord's Supper
+and this lasted for four days, with religious services each day. During
+these times families living nearest the church invited those who lived
+at great distances to stay with them. Often some young couple would be
+married, either just before or immediately after these services. Then
+there would be a little merriment, extra cakes and a few playful pranks.
+
+
+THE FIRST ACADEMY IN THE VALLEY
+
+Dr. Ruffner has left us a description of Timber Ridge, which was built
+near Fairfield in Rockbridge County in 1776. The school took its name
+from the fine oak trees which grew along its ridge. He writes:
+
+     "The schoolhouse was a log cabin. The fine oak forest, which
+     had given Timber Ridge its name, cast its shade over it in
+     summer and afforded convenient fuel in winter. A spring of pure
+     water gushed from the rocks near the house. From amidst the
+     trees the student had a fine view of the country below and the
+     neighboring Blue Ridge. In short all the features of the place
+     made it a fit habitation of the woodland muse and the hill
+     deserved the name of Mount Pleasant. Hither about thirty youths
+     of the mountains repaired to 'taste of the Pierian spring.' Of
+     reading, writing and ciphering, the boys of the country had
+     before acquired such knowledge as primary schools could afford;
+     but with a few late exceptions, Latin, Greek, algebra, geometry
+     and such like scholastic mysteries were things of which they
+     had heard--which they knew perhaps to lie covered up in the
+     learned heads of their pastors--but of the nature and uses they
+     had no conception whatever.
+
+     "It was a log hut of one room. The students carried their
+     dinner with them from the boarding-schools in the neighborhood.
+     They conned their lesson either in the schoolroom where the
+     recitations were heard, or under the shade of the trees where
+     breezes whispered and birds sang without disturbing their
+     studies. A horn--perhaps a cow's horn--summoned the school from
+     play and scattered classes to recitations.
+
+     "Instead of broadcloth coats, the students generally wore a far
+     more graceful garment, the hunting shirt, home-spun,
+     home-woven, and home-made, by the industry of wives and
+     daughters.
+
+     "Their amusements were not less remote from the modern taste of
+     students--cards, backgammon, flutes, fiddles, and even marbles
+     were scarcely known among these mountain boys. Firing pistols
+     and ranging the field with shotguns to kill little birds for
+     sport, they would have considered a waste of time and
+     ammunition. As to frequenting tippling shops of any
+     denomination, that was impossible because no such catchpenny
+     lures for students existed in the country, or would have been
+     tolerated. Had any huckster of liquors, knicknacks, and
+     explosive crackers, hung out signs in those days, the old
+     Puritan morality of the land was yet vigorous enough to abate
+     the nuisance. The sports of the students were mostly gymnastic,
+     both manly and healthful--such as leaping, running, wrestling,
+     pitching quoits and playing ball. In this rustic seminary a
+     considerable number of young men began their education, who
+     afterwards bore a distinguished part in the civil and
+     ecclesiastical affairs of the country."
+
+
+
+
+Valley Inventions
+
+
+The Valley of Virginia has often been termed "the granary of the South."
+It is no wonder that farmers from time to time have tried to shorten
+their labor in the wheat fields by inventing machines to do their work.
+
+The name Robert McCormick means little or nothing to most of us, yet on
+his farm, Walnut Grove, near Lexington he made repeated attempts to
+invent a workable reaper. His son, Cyrus, had watched with growing
+interest each of his father's undertakings. His regrets must have been
+as keen as the elder McCormick's when they realized one May morning in
+1831 that the clumsy machine could not replace the hand scythe and
+cradle.
+
+Cyrus knew something of machinery and determined to improve his father's
+poor invention in time for the next harvesting. During the intervening
+six weeks he stayed in the workshop as much as the busy growing season
+would allow and secured the ready help of a slave boy, Joe Anderson.
+
+In July when the wheat was ready to harvest Cyrus and his father moved
+the machine out to the field. There a crowd of neighbors gathered and
+watched with fascination as the reaper cut six acres of wheat during the
+day.
+
+McCormick continued to improve his invention and other farmers risked
+their money in purchasing the first six he offered on the market.
+Eventually the news spread to the grain fields of the Middle West and he
+opened factories to supply the farmers there.
+
+For years the inventor strove to improve the reaper; he discovered that
+other labor saving devices were needed equally as badly, and he offered
+other types of farm machinery to the rich farm lands.
+
+Inventive genius lay near Lexington along other lines, too. It was near
+here that James Gibbs invented his common sense stitch sewing-machine
+which was a forerunner of our more modern models. And what a
+labor-saving machine that was to all the housewives!
+
+
+WASHINGTON COLLEGE
+
+The Scotch-Irish were determined to have the best schools and colleges
+for their children. The Hanover Presbytery, which in 1776 embraced all
+the Presbyterian churches in Virginia, established a school which they
+called Liberty Hall Academy. This was built in Lexington, Virginia, with
+the Reverend William Graham, a native of Pennsylvania, as its first
+president. George Washington, in 1796, gave the school a regular
+endowment, the first of its kind. This is how it was made:
+
+The Legislature of Virginia "as a testimony of their gratitude for his
+services," and as "a mark of their respect," presented to George
+Washington a certain number of shares in the Old James River Company, an
+industry then in progress. Unwilling to accept anything for his own
+benefit, he gave it to the Liberty Hall Academy.
+
+In 1812, the Trustees of the school voted to ask the Virginia
+Legislature to change the name to Washington College. Many others
+decided to follow George Washington's fine example. A Mr. John Robinson
+left his whole estate to the college; the next to aid it, we are told,
+was the newly organized Society of the Cincinnati of Virginia.
+
+Old records of the school throw an interesting light regarding the
+expenses of a student in those far-off days. The treasurer's bill for
+tuition, room rent, deposits and matriculation was $45 per year. Board
+was $7.50 a month. Laundry, fuel, candles and bed amounted to about
+three dollars per month. The cost of everything averaged about $140 a
+year.
+
+
+
+
+Lexington
+
+
+When he was beset and overwhelmed, and without supplies, Robert Edward
+Lee reached Appomattox in April, 1865, and surrendered to General Grant
+on April 9th. He realized that the people of the South needed courage
+and strength, and though he was offered many places of honor with
+splendid salaries, he decided to help rebuild Virginia. When the call
+came to become president of Washington College in Lexington he accepted
+and took up his duties there in October, 1865.
+
+As he spoke to the students assembled in the new chapel he saw familiar
+faces. Many of them had followed him during the years of the War Between
+the States; they, too, had courage and hope. These boys and men loved
+the noble man and they were willing to follow him in rebuilding their
+homes and the Southland.
+
+     "All good citizens must unite in honest efforts to obliterate
+     the effects of war, and to restore the blessings of peace. They
+     must not abandon their country, but go to work and build up its
+     prosperity.
+
+     "The young men especially must stay at home, bearing themselves
+     in such a manner as to gain the esteem of every one, at the
+     same time that they maintain their own respect.
+
+     "It should be the object of all to avoid controversy, to allay
+     passion, and to give scope to every kindly feeling."
+
+In every respect he was prepared to be the president of a great school,
+for he himself had been a model student at West Point. He had already
+served as Superintendent there for three years.
+
+He was very happy during the short years he lived in Lexington. He had
+the grounds improved, planted many trees, and repaired the much worn
+buildings. He studied and worked over the courses of study and enlarged
+the faculty.
+
+A young girl who was visiting in the home of General Lee in Lexington,
+tells the following story. It was soon after the Surrender at Appomattox
+and his acceptance of the Presidency of Washington College.
+
+General Lee, with his family, was living in one of the comfortable and
+large houses near the college. Their home at Arlington had been
+confiscated during the War Between the States, and they had no furniture
+except some which neighbors had lent them.
+
+[Illustration:--_Courtesy Virginia State Chamber of Commerce_
+
+WASHINGTON AND LEE UNIVERSITY, LEXINGTON, VA.]
+
+One day a letter came to General Lee, telling him good news. A lady who
+lived in New York wrote him that her husband had died, and having no
+children she had decided to give up housekeeping. She had been very
+happy and had loved her home. Now she wanted the furnishings to belong
+to someone who would appreciate and would care for them. She wrote she
+sympathized with them in not having their own furniture and that there
+was no one to whom she had rather give hers.
+
+General Lee hated the thought of accepting, until he read on, that if he
+could not use the furniture himself, perhaps he could use it in his
+college. After some time he wrote the lady he would be very grateful and
+would appreciate it very much.
+
+In the meantime Mrs. Lee was looking forward to its coming, for her
+large rooms were indeed very bare. At last the great boxes came. General
+Lee was busy, so Mrs. Lee waited until he could be present to have them
+opened.
+
+After lunch one day, General Lee had men come to open them. Mrs. Lee's
+eyes shone as the first box revealed two huge red velvet carpets.
+
+She looked at the General. His eyes were shining too.
+
+"Look, my dear," he said, "The very thing we need! If we cut them
+carefully, we will have enough to carpet the platform and the aisles of
+the new chapel!"
+
+"Of course," she smiled, never saying one word about how warm and lovely
+they would make the double parlors in their own home.
+
+The next box was opened with intense interest. The men lifted out the
+upper part of a handsome bookcase. The next brought the lower half, a
+lovely desk, with many drawers.
+
+"Oh," thought Mrs. Lee. "That will fill up that terrible space between
+the windows."
+
+"This is the very thing we want," General Lee said, as the men took them
+to the walk. "We will put that in the basement of the new chapel. We
+will use it for our records and put our best books in the bookcase, and
+this will be the beginning of our college library."
+
+And so it went. He used the best of everything for his college, and Mrs.
+Lee took only the odds and ends which did not fit anywhere else.
+Someone told her she should have taken a stand and insisted upon taking
+some of the best.
+
+"Oh, no," she laughed, "it was worth giving all of it up to see the joy
+the General had in putting it to use in his college. The boys come
+first--both of us are so interested in them."
+
+General Lee died in October, 1870, loved by men and women, boys and
+girls in both the North and South. His body rests under a beautiful
+white marble figure, which was sculptured by his friend, Edward
+Valentine. It is called the Recumbent Statue of General Lee and lies in
+the Chapel of Washington and Lee. This is now a shrine to which hundreds
+come daily from all over the world to pay their homage, love and respect
+to this great man.
+
+
+[Illustration:--_Courtesy Virginia State Chamber of Commerce_
+
+VIRGINIA MILITARY INSTITUTE]
+
+THE VIRGINIA MILITARY INSTITUTE
+
+Virginia Military Institute was first an academy and was established in
+connection with Washington College by an act of the Legislature during
+the years 1838-9. A guard of soldiers had been maintained at the expense
+of the State for the purpose of affording protection to the arms
+deposited in the Lexington arsenal for the use of the militia in western
+Virginia. It was through the influence of Governor McDowell, who came
+from Rockbridge County, that this militia was made into an educational
+unit of Washington College.
+
+One seldom thinks of the Virginia Military Institute without associating
+with it the noted Colonel Claudius Crozet--soldier, educator and
+engineer. He was the first president of the V.M.I. Board of Visitors. An
+imposing hall at the Institute is named in his honor.
+
+In the Stonewall Jackson Memorial Hall hangs the painting which depicts
+the charge of the corps of cadets at the Battle of New Market. "This
+great painting, not a mural, is one of the largest canvas paintings in
+the country"--according to authorities there.
+
+Among other memorial buildings is the one erected in honor of
+Brigadier-General Scott Shipp, a former cadet, instructor and
+superintendent; Maury-Brooke Hall, dedicated to Matthew Fontaine Maury,
+the Pathfinder of the Seas and honoring Commander John Mercer Brooke,
+inventor of the deep-sea sounding apparatus and builder of the first
+successful iron-clad vessel, the "Merrimac."
+
+During the War Between the States the greater part of the buildings were
+destroyed by Federal authority. When General Lee heard of this tragedy
+he wrote to General F. H. Smith, the superintendent there. We quote his
+letter because of its prophetic message:
+
+     "CAMP PETERSBURG, (VA.) _July 4, 1864_.
+
+     "I have grieved over the destruction of the Military Institute.
+     But the good that has been done to the country cannot be
+     destroyed, nor can its name or fame perish. It will rise
+     stronger than before, and continue to diffuse its benefits to a
+     grateful people. Under wise administration, there will be no
+     suspension of its usefulness. The difficulties by which it is
+     surrounded will call forth greater energies from its officers
+     and increased diligence from its pupils. Its prosperity I
+     consider certain.
+
+     "With great regards, yours very truly,
+
+                                        "R. E. LEE."
+
+
+There is a glamor attached to this Virginia school unique in the
+country. It comes not alone from the bright cadet uniforms, the parade
+grounds, the gray stone barracks and the _esprit de corps_ evidenced
+there; part is kept alive by the hundreds of loyal alumni and friends
+whose devotion is unlimited. This "West Point of the South" maintains
+the traditions of the time of Stonewall Jackson and graduates young
+officers for the army and young men for every field of business. A
+current Broadway show of popular appeal and a cinema of note is that of
+"Brother Rat" which depicts the life at V.M.I.
+
+
+
+
+Culpeper Minute Men
+
+
+Who can resist a story about the Revolutionary War? There is a
+fascination surrounding the heroes and heroines of that era and most of
+us listen attentively to any legend depicting the action of our
+forefathers.
+
+From a point along the Skyline Drive one may look toward Culpeper
+County. (In fact, in all probability you passed through a part of this
+old county if you took an east to west route to reach the drive.) Among
+other things Culpeper is justly famous for its Minute Men of the
+Revolutionary War.
+
+The town was formed from Orange in 1748 and was named in honor of Lord
+Culpeper, Governor of Virginia from 1680 to 1683. This land was a part
+of the original land grant to Lord Fairfax. It was here in the old
+Courthouse that young George Washington produced his commission as
+surveyor. The record reads:
+
+     "20th July, 1749--George Washington Gent. produced a commission
+     from the President and Master of William and Mary College,
+     appointing him to be surveyor of this county, which was read,
+     and thereupon he took the usual oaths to his majesty's person
+     and government, and took and subscribed the abjuration oath and
+     test, and then took the oath of surveyor, according to law."
+
+Speaking years later in the Senate, John Randolph of Roanoke remarked
+that the Minute Men "were raised in a minute, armed in a minute, marched
+in a minute, fought in a minute, and vanquished in a minute." These
+soldiers chose as part of their uniform green hunting shirts with
+"Liberty or Death" stamped in large letters across the front. Buck tails
+hung from their old hats and from their belts swung tomahawks and
+scalping knives. Their wild appearance on reaching Williamsburg, the
+capital of the colony, set the inhabitants in as much fear as did the
+thought of invasion by the enemy! Lieutenant John Marshall who was later
+to become Chief Justice was among the number--as was his father.
+
+The slogan of the Minute Men "Liberty or Death" brought forth humor from
+one wag who said the phrasing was too strong for him; he would enlist if
+it were changed to "Liberty or Be Crippled."
+
+Almost upon their immediate arrival at Williamsburg they were marched to
+Norfolk County and were participants in the Battle of Great Bridge.
+
+
+
+
+Blind Preacher
+
+
+Not so far from Gordonsville there is a simple marker near the site of
+"Belle Grove," a little church made famous by a blind preacher. And back
+of the monument itself is a story well worth repeating. It is a tale
+told by William Wirt in his _British Spy_.
+
+In that account Wirt said:
+
+     "It was one Sunday as I travelled through the county of Orange,
+     that my eye was caught by a cluster of horses tied near a
+     ruinous old wooden house in the forest, not far from the
+     roadside. Having frequently seen such objects before, in
+     travelling through these States, I had no difficulty in
+     understanding that this was a place of religion."
+
+He stated further that he was filled with curiosity as to the type of
+minister who would preach in such a wilderness as he was passing through
+and so he stopped and joined the worshippers. He described the preacher,
+a Presbyterian in faith, as having one of the most striking appearances
+he had ever seen and a most remarkable delivery.
+
+     "I have never seen, in any other orator, such a union of
+     simplicity and majesty. He has not a gesture, an attitude, or
+     an accent, to which he does not seem forced by the sentiment
+     which he is expressing. His mind is too serious, too earnest,
+     too solicitous, and, at the same time, too dignified, to stoop
+     to artifice. Although as far removed from ostentation as a man
+     can be, yet it is clear from the train, the style, and
+     substance of his thoughts, that he is not only a very polite
+     scholar, but a man of extensive and profound erudition."
+
+James Waddel was the name of this remarkable old man of God. He was born
+in Ireland in 1739 and was brought to America as an infant.
+
+Another interesting tale was told in the neighborhood. Waddel's fame as
+a preacher had spread through the vicinity. On one occasion a committee
+from a different faith prepared to wait on him and urge him to occupy
+their pulpit as well as his own. Upon nearing his dwelling they were
+shocked to hear sweet plaintive notes coming from a violin and resolved
+to learn who in his household would dare to play the devil's instrument.
+They crept softly to the window. Such amazement was theirs when they saw
+their potential minister himself drawing the bow--and with apparent
+enjoyment and satisfaction. More quickly than they had approached did
+they leave the yard and felt righteously thankful that they had seen the
+true nature of the man before it was too late!
+
+Not only did the Blind Preacher serve as minister, but like others of
+his profession he conducted a school.
+
+And what happened to the old church itself? Long abandoned as a meeting
+house for the Presbyterians, about 1850 it was sold and taken down by
+the "Sons of Temperance" and converted into a temperance hall at
+Gordonsville. Later it housed a school. Finally it was sold to a colored
+preacher as a church for his flock.
+
+
+
+
+Hebron Church
+
+
+Outstanding among the old churches in this part of Virginia is Hebron
+Church in Madison County.
+
+The little colony of Germans at Germanna, to whom we have already
+referred, and a few immigrants from Holland were responsible for its
+early establishment. First it was known as "Old Dutch Church." Located
+on its original site its existence has been in three different counties:
+Orange, Culpeper and now Madison!
+
+Hebron is the oldest Lutheran church not only in Virginia but in the
+South. About 1733 the nucleus of the congregation met and sent a
+representative to England for a pastor. It seems a bit surprising that
+no English parson felt the call to tend the flock in an outpost of
+Virginia, but it is true that no one was possessed of the missionary
+spirit to that extent.
+
+In 1735 a Hessian who had come to America eight years before, the Rev.
+Casper Stoever, left his home in Pennsylvania and became the first
+pastor. His annual salary, by the way, was four thousand pounds of
+tobacco or just about forty dollars in currency. This was paid by the
+congregation in addition to the taxes which were required of the
+Non-Conformist churches towards the upkeep of the established English
+church.
+
+Everyone in Madison is vastly proud of the old pipe organ at Hebron. It
+was built in 1800 at Philadelphia and brought to its present place on
+wagon--a journey which took a long time and infinite pains. Jacob and
+Michael Rouse were entrusted with the task of hauling. The organ cost
+two hundred pounds sterling. Interesting, too, is the complete old
+communion service which dates back to the church's early beginnings.
+
+In recent years visiting concert organists have played on the fine old
+instrument at the request of the congregation.
+
+
+
+
+Hoover's Camp on the Rapidan River
+
+
+During the administration of former President Hoover a fine camp was
+built on the banks of the Rapidan River in Madison County where the
+Chief Executive, his family and friends enjoyed the trout fishing and
+rustic life that the camp afforded. A main lodge was erected for the
+President. Guest lodges for the Cabinet members and others were located
+nearby. This retreat is within easy driving distance of the White House
+and was in constant use for week-ends during the summer months. From
+Washington the Presidential parties took route 211 to Warrenton and from
+there two routes were offered: either a continuation of route 211 to
+Sperryville, then south to Criglersville on route 16, or from Warrenton
+to Culpeper to Criglersville.
+
+Both Mr. and Mrs. Hoover became very much interested in the life of the
+mountaineers who grew to be their friendly neighbors. You have heard
+the story, no doubt, of the small unlettered boy who brought a gift to
+the President and who aroused in him and Mrs. Hoover the desire to see a
+school built in the neighborhood which would serve a large mountain
+area. An excellent little frame building nestles among the sloping hills
+which attracts the children of all ages within a radius of many miles.
+One part of the building is used for class instruction and the rest for
+living quarters for the teacher. This school was made possible largely
+through the efforts of Mr. and Mrs. Hoover.
+
+One may see the school and the entrance to the Rapidan Camp by following
+the road which leads from Big Meadow, a plateau on the Skyline Drive, to
+Criglersville.
+
+The camp is still in use at times. Cabinet members and other government
+officials enjoy its stream and mountain beauties, but not to the extent
+of former times.
+
+
+
+
+Charlottesville and Albemarle County
+
+THE FATHER OF THE UNIVERSITY OF VIRGINIA
+
+
+Every school child knows the outstanding facts about Thomas Jefferson.
+He will rattle off quickly that he was born near Charlottesville in
+Albemarle County, in 1743, that he was at William and Mary College when
+only seventeen and played his fiddle which he had carried as he rode the
+long miles between Charlottesville and Williamsburg. He graduated there
+and was admitted to the bar. Thomas Jefferson drafted, at the request of
+the Committee, the Declaration of Independence. He was Governor of
+Virginia during the trying years of the Revolutionary War. We shall not
+give all the offices which he held, except to mention that he spent some
+years abroad in France as United States Minister. For almost forty years
+he served his country, having been President of it from 1801 to 1809.
+
+It is from the quaint letters of his granddaughter, Ellenora Randolph,
+that one may read of the tenderness, the lovable disposition and the
+human side of this great American.
+
+She was said to be his favorite grandchild and she writes of how she sat
+on his knee and played with his huge watch chain. He never went to
+Philadelphia without bringing her little luxuries which it was
+impossible to buy in Virginia. He brought her a Bible, a lady's side
+saddle, a Leghorn hat, and a set of Shakespeare.
+
+[Illustration:--_Courtesy Virginia Conservation Commission_
+
+"MONTICELLO", NEAR CHARLOTTESVILLE, VA.]
+
+She tells how Jefferson's wife had died when his daughters were quite
+young and that he had been so kind and sympathetic in "shaping their
+lives."
+
+There is an interesting love story here, too, for Ellenora met and fell
+in love with Joseph Coolidge of Boston. He came a-wooing the Virginia
+beauty, and according to the custom of that day, he wrote Mr. Jefferson
+of his intentions to marry his granddaughter before he proposed to her.
+
+The following is Jefferson's reply to Joseph Coolidge:
+
+     "MONTICELLO, _October 24, 1824_.
+
+     "I avail myself of the first moment of my ability to take up a
+     pen to assure you that nothing would be more welcome to me than
+     the visit proposed and its object.... I assure you no union
+     could give me more satisfaction if your wishes are mutual. Your
+     visit to Monticello and at the time of your convenience will be
+     truly welcome, and your stay, whatever may suit yourself. My
+     gratification will be measured by the time of its
+     continuance....
+
+     "I expect in the course of the first or the second week of the
+     approaching month to receive here the visit of my ancient
+     friend, General LaFayette. The delirium which his visit has
+     excited in the North envelopes him in the South also ... and
+     the county of Albemarle will exhibit its great affection and
+     unending means in a dinner given the General in the building of
+     the University, to which they have given accepted invitations
+     to Mr. and Mrs. James Madison and myself as guests; and at
+     which your presence as my guest would give high pleasure to us
+     all, and to name, I assure you more cordially than sincerely
+     your friend;
+
+                   (Signed) "THOMAS JEFFERSON."
+
+The wedding accounts give the names of fifty distinguished Americans who
+came to pay their respects to Ellenora and her husband. Every
+distinguished foreigner came in person; besides these, there came many
+of the men who had known and loved Jefferson during all his years of
+service. Imagine all the horses that had to be fed, all the gigs and
+coaches and all the Negro servants who had to be quartered. No one is
+surprised that what the man had accumulated was fast disappearing with
+so much hospitality.
+
+But Ellenora had her troubles upon arriving in Boston. Her presents and
+other possessions had been sent by boat and it had sunk! Her letter
+tells of her great distress at losing the trinkets associated with her
+happy girlhood. But most of all, she expressed her grief upon losing a
+writing desk which Grandfather Jefferson had had made for her by his
+master carpenter, a Negro servant. This was a very talented carver who
+had faithfully carried out each detailed design which his master had
+given him. Now he was old and had grown blind and he could no longer
+make one. This is Jefferson's letter to his granddaughter--and explains
+how a most historic desk went a-travelling:
+
+     "It has occurred to me that perhaps I can replace it (desk) not
+     indeed to you, but to Mr. Coolidge, by a substitute, not
+     claiming the same value from its decorations but the part it
+     has bourne in our history, and the event with which it has been
+     associated.... Now I happen to possess the writing box on which
+     the Declaration of Independence was written. It was made from a
+     drawing of my own, by Ben Randall, a cabinetmaker in whose
+     house I took lodging on my first arrival in Philadelphia, in
+     May, 1776, and I have had it ever since. It claims no merit of
+     particular beauty. It is plain, neat and convenient and taking
+     no more room on a writing table than a modern quarto volume it
+     displays itself sufficient for any writing. Mr. Coolidge must
+     do me the favor of accepting this. Its imaginary value will
+     increase with the years. If he lives till my age, he may see it
+     carried in the procession of our nation's birthday."
+
+So this is how the famous desk went to New England and was finally sent
+to the State Department in Washington by the Coolidges in 1876.
+
+When Thomas Jefferson was an old man, he began to carry out his dream,
+one which he had had for a long time, to build a university. All his
+life he had loved to draw plans and he carefully made his own
+blueprints. He drew plans for lovely Monticello when he was twenty-eight
+years old. His friends came from far and near to get him to draw plans
+for their homes. Ashlawn, Montpelier and others are monuments to this
+master builder. He had his own ideas about educating the young men of
+Virginia. He wanted to see them fitted to be fine citizens by having a
+good education, for he knew it was through good citizens that a good
+government would be realized. But first he had to educate his friends
+along this line. Many of them still thought a tutor in the family was
+the best way. Many did not believe in "mass education." For ten long
+years he worked to get a bill through the Legislature which called for
+the establishment of the University of Virginia. At last, in 1825 the
+school was opened. But many years passed before Jefferson could get the
+buildings he had dreamed of and had planned. Then when he was
+eighty-two, his dream came true.
+
+[Illustration:--_Courtesy Virginia State Chamber of Commerce_
+
+ROTUNDA OF UNIVERSITY OF VIRGINIA]
+
+Today one may see his university, set on a sloping hill. The buildings
+are models of architecture and Jefferson himself superintended the
+construction of them. It is told that he often watched the carpenters
+from Monticello through a telescope. Jefferson also planned those early
+courses of study and helped in the selection of the faculty. The spirit
+of Jefferson is still felt there today and each generation of students
+has been enriched by it and the noble traditions of the school.
+
+Many famous students have gone there. Edgar Allan Poe wrote "The Raven"
+and "Anabel Lee" there. An Arctic explorer from the University was
+Elisha Kane. Walter Reed studied medicine and, as we know, won the fight
+against yellow fever by his heroic experiments. Each year, men go out
+from this great old school who help to build a greater country--just as
+Jefferson dreamed they would.
+
+After his death on July 4, 1826, someone found a paper on which he had
+written these words:
+
+        "Here was buried
+        Thomas Jefferson
+    Author of the Declaration of American Independence
+    of the Statute of Virginia for religious freedom
+    and Father of the University of Virginia."
+
+And today, one finds his tomb halfway up the hill to Monticello and the
+words above are cut upon the simple shaft which marks his grave.
+
+Monticello is open to the public and may be reached by a hard surface
+road leading out of Charlottesville. Through careful research and
+diligence the Monticello Memorial Association has brought back to the
+home much of the fine furnishings which Jefferson himself had collected.
+At the present time the second and third floors of the mansion are being
+faithfully restored.
+
+    JACK JOUETT'S RIDE
+
+    "Here goes to thee, Jack Jouett!
+      Lord keep thy memr'y green;
+    You made the greatest ride, sir,
+      That ever yet was seen."
+
+So reads the last stanza of an inscription on a tablet erected in his
+memory. But who was Jack Jouett and what of his "greatest ride?"
+
+During the stirring days of the American Revolution Thomas Jefferson was
+Governor of Virginia. Hearing that the British were expected to reach
+Richmond he recommended that the capital of the colony be moved to
+Charlottesville until after danger from the enemy should pass. This was
+done and Jefferson stayed at his home, Monticello.
+
+At Cuckoo Tavern in Louisa County, fifty miles from Charlottesville,
+young Jouett was sitting around one night getting the latest news of the
+rebellion, when Tarleton, who commanded a British force, came into the
+place. Jouett hid from sight and overheard Tarleton talking with several
+other English officers. They said they were impatient to be on their way
+to Monticello to capture Jefferson, Patrick Henry and other Virginia
+leaders. Jack stayed to hear the route they would take to
+Charlottesville and then slipped away on his horse.
+
+The famous ride occurred on back roads in order to beat the British to
+their destination. He crossed to the main road long enough to tell a
+family of Walkers that the British were coming for the Governor. Later
+Tarleton drew in at the same home and demanded breakfast from Mrs.
+Walker. Knowing that time meant a great deal to the rider going ahead
+with the news, she delayed the meal as long as possible.
+
+As Jouett climbed the last hill to Monticello he heard the horses of
+Tarleton's party in the distance, so he spurred his animal on and in a
+last-minute sprint he reached the home. The plans were revealed and
+Jefferson hurriedly assembled his family. As their carriage left by a
+back road the English came up another and searched in vain for the
+Governor.
+
+Jouett went from there to Charlottesville to warn the members of the
+legislature of the impending danger and they fled to Staunton--all but
+seven of the legislators who were overtaken and captured. The story is
+told of how he saved General Stevens, a member of the Assembly. As they
+rode along, some British soldiers saw them and set their horses at a
+great pace. Jack had on a plumed hat which might appear important to the
+soldiers; he told the general to ride slowly across an open field as if
+he were the owner out on an inspection tour of his lands. He himself
+would dash off in the hope of getting the troopers to follow him. The
+plan worked. Jouett finally left the pursuers far behind and later on he
+returned to his home in Charlottesville.
+
+Much later the Virginia legislature passed a resolution commending the
+valor of Jack Jouett and presented him with a pair of pistols and a
+sword as a mark of appreciation of his service to the State. Swan
+Tavern, left him by his father, occupied his time after the war. He died
+in Kentucky where he had moved as an old man.
+
+
+LEWIS AND CLARK EXPEDITION
+
+Thomas Jefferson knew the two young men whom he wanted to explore the
+great Northwest, for they had been born almost at the foot of
+Monticello. They were Meriwether Lewis and William Clark. Each of them,
+almost as boys, had been a soldier and each loved adventure.
+
+Meriwether Lewis had inherited a fortune from his father and he could
+have settled down to a life of ease. But after eighteen he would not go
+to school any longer. He had fought in the Whiskey Rebellion in
+Pennsylvania and then entered the army. He was commissioned captain in
+1800 and served for three years. Then Thomas Jefferson asked him to be
+his secretary and it was in this office that Jefferson found his
+admirable qualities.
+
+William Clark was four years older than his friend Lewis. He was born in
+1770 and was a brother of George Rogers Clark. When he was fourteen
+years old he went with his family to the Ohio River where his brother
+George had built a fort. There he learned the ways of the Indians and
+often he was in the thick of their raids. He, too, joined the regular
+army and received his commission when he was only eighteen years old.
+He went to St. Louis and was commissioned as second lieutenant of the
+artillery and ordered to join the great expedition.
+
+Captain Lewis was first in command and he selected his men carefully.
+There were fourteen soldiers in the little party and two Canadian
+boatmen, an interpreter, a hunter and a Negro servant.
+
+Thomas Jefferson did not give them a lot of orders. The following
+instructions show his wisdom:
+
+     "Treat them (Indians) in the most friendly and concilliating
+     manner which their own conduct will admit; allay all jealousies
+     as to the object of your journey; satisfy them of its
+     innocence; make them acquainted with the position, extent,
+     character, peaceable, and commercial intercourse with them;
+     confer with them on the points most convenient as mutual
+     emporiums and the articles of most desirable interchange for
+     them and us. If a few of their influential chiefs, within
+     practicable distance wish to visit us, arrange such a visit
+     with them, and furnish them with authority to call on our
+     officers on their entering the United States, to have them
+     conveyed to this place at the public expense. If any of them
+     should wish to have some of their people brought up with us and
+     use such arts as may be useful to them, we will receive,
+     instruct, and take care of them."
+
+The fact that so little trouble was had by the party is due to the skill
+which Clark used in handling the Indians. We will not go into the
+details of the expedition, for everyone knows what a wonderful, rich
+territory was gained for the United States by that expedition.
+
+
+
+
+Fredericksburg
+
+
+Fredericksburg, fifty-five miles south of Washington and about the same
+distance north of Richmond, Virginia, on Route 1, rightly claims to be
+one of the most historic cities in the United States. Visitors who make
+a tour of the Valley of Virginia and the Skyline Drive may want to begin
+their trip here, for it serves as a hub for long or short visits to
+neighboring places of interest. From Fredericksburg one may drive to
+Culpeper, Sperryville and Panorama and enter the Skyline Drive at that
+point, or he may wish to go from Fredericksburg to Warrenton and thence
+to the Skyline Drive. Another excellent route is by way of Orange and
+Stanardsville and on to Swift Run Gap, the Southern entrance to the
+Drive at the present time.
+
+[Illustration: "KENMORE", THE HOME OF FIELDING LEWIS AND BETTY
+WASHINGTON LEWIS, FREDERICKSBURG, VIRGINIA]
+
+A splendid trip from this old city is to "Wakefield," the birthplace of
+George Washington, in Westmoreland County, and from there to "Stratford
+Hall," the ancestral home of the Lee family and the birthplace of
+General Lee, both in Westmoreland County. About two miles from
+Fredericksburg on this route is "Ferry Farm" where George Washington
+spent a part of his boyhood.
+
+In the city itself there are shrines to famous folks of an earlier
+period. The home of Mary Washington, mother of the first President, is
+open to the public. "Kenmore," former home of Betty Washington Lewis and
+Colonel Fielding Lewis is well cared for by an association. Both these
+homes have good examples of eighteenth century furnishings. The Rising
+Sun Tavern was the scene years ago of the Victory Ball after the
+surrender at Yorktown; it was host to most of the famous men of Virginia
+and neighboring States for years. In the Masonic Lodge are a number of
+relics of Washington's time and an original Gilbert Stuart portrait of
+the General. General Hugh Mercer, a noted physician of the Revolution
+had his apothecary shop in Fredericksburg and the visitor may see it
+upon request. Mary Washington's will is on record at the courthouse
+here.
+
+On Charles Street in Fredericksburg, Virginia, stands a shrine to the
+memory of James Monroe, who served his country in more public offices
+than any other American in the history of the United States. This quaint
+story-and-a-half brick building, which he occupied from 1786 to 1788,
+was the only private law office in which Monroe practiced his
+profession. It was built in 1758 and stands in its original state, even
+to the woodwork and mantles of the interior. Only the old brick floor
+and plastering had to be restored. This was accomplished in 1928, when
+the building was opened to the public as the first shrine to the memory
+of the fifth President. At that time there was placed in it the largest
+number of Monroe possessions in existence, handed down for five
+generations in straight line to his descendants, who made the shrine
+possible.
+
+[Illustration: JAMES MONROE'S LAW OFFICE]
+
+James Monroe brought his bride, the former Elizabeth Kortright of New
+York, to Fredericksburg, and in the little shrine are hallowed
+intimate possessions of hers as well as those of her distinguished
+husband; a wedding slipper, a dainty French fan; two handsome court
+gowns, one of silver brocaded on white satin, the other of cream colored
+taffeta, richly embroidered with dahlias in natural colors; her bonnet
+and veil in which she welcomed Lafayette on his return to the States in
+1824; her lorgnette, which must have added to the reputation she had for
+dignity; her Astor piano and her silver service marked "J. M."
+
+Of Monroe's personal possessions there are many. Here too is his court
+dress with its rare old lace, cut-steel buttons and knee breeches, worn
+at Napoleon's court; the quaint huge umbrella presented him by the City
+of Boston on the occasion of Lafayette's return, with its original
+covering, whale-bone ribs and ivory handle, all contributing to its
+weight of seven and one-half pounds; his mahogany brass-bound dispatch
+box in which his Louisiana Purchase papers were carried; his
+silver-mounted duelling pistols, recalling that Monroe came near
+fighting a duel with Alexander Hamilton; and other articles too numerous
+to mention, including interesting historical letters by and to James
+Monroe from the outstanding men of his day.
+
+Perhaps the outstanding exhibit in the Law Office shrine, however, is
+the desk on which Monroe signed the message to Congress which formed the
+basis for the famous Monroe Doctrine. Mahogany, high, brass-bound, this
+handsome desk forms a part of the furniture bought by the Monroes in
+France, brought by them to this country in 1798, and now finally shown
+in the little museum dedicated to their memory. The Monroes, being the
+first to move into the rebuilt White House after the original one had
+been burned by the British in the War of 1812, and being confronted with
+empty rooms, took with them this lovely furniture. Still later, on
+leaving the White House, the beloved possessions again went with them,
+and it is to this fact that the happy privilege of the public to see
+these things today can be attributed.
+
+More than a hundred years later, a successor of Mrs. Monroe was to
+express her patriotism and interest in historical accuracy through
+cataloguing and making inventories of the furnishings of the White
+House. This lady, Mrs. Herbert Hoover, in searching the records, learned
+of the Monroe furniture and of its ultimate resting place in the Monroe
+shrine, and asked permission to copy it at Government expense, the
+copies to be placed in the White House. Permission was gladly given and
+today there is a "Monroe Room" in the White House, furnished with the
+reproductions of this historic furniture. The originals, however, remain
+in the little museum in Fredericksburg, relics of active, public years
+spent by a great statesman on two continents.
+
+The Fredericksburg and Spotsylvania National Military Park was
+established in 1927. Quoting from a booklet which may be secured from
+the park headquarters we find:
+
+     "This park was established ... to commemorate six major battles
+     fought during the great sectional conflict between 1861 and
+     1865--the two Battles of Fredericksburg, Chancellorsville,
+     Salem Church, Wilderness, and Spotsylvania Court House--and to
+     preserve for historical purposes the remains of earthworks,
+     roads, and other sites of importance on these battlefields...."
+
+At the Battle of Chancellorsville General Stonewall Jackson, famous
+Confederate commander, was mortally wounded. A simple shaft marks the
+place and a wild flower preserve is located near it.
+
+     "While the fundamental purpose of the park is historical
+     education, its program is by no means confined to this
+     limitation. It offers important recreational and educational
+     features aside from critical military history. The Jackson
+     Memorial Wild Flower Preserve ... affords excellent instruction
+     in botany.... The deep woodlands of the area threaded with foot
+     trails leading along the old trenches are a delight to lovers
+     of the outdoors...."
+
+
+
+
+Kenmore--1752
+
+
+Kenmore, the home of Fielding Lewis and Betty Washington Lewis (George
+Washington's only sister), is an outstanding example of the architecture
+of Colonial Virginia. It is also intimately connected with the stirring
+history of Colonial times and with the life of George Washington.
+
+Augustine Washington, about 1739, moved from Hunting Creek to Ferry
+Farm, across the river from Fredericksburg, with his second wife, Mary
+Ball, and their five children--George, Betty, Samuel, John Augustine,
+and Charles--for the sake of community life and the religious and
+educational advantages it offered. Here the children grew up and
+received their education--Betty at a "Dame School," George under the
+tutelage of Parson Marye. Betty and George were especially intimate
+companions because of their nearness of age and their similarity in
+personality and character.
+
+When Betty was sixteen, and a "mannerly young maid," her cousin Fielding
+Lewis came seeking her hand in marriage. Lewis had come up from
+Gloucester three years previously with his wife and son. Mrs. Lewis died
+in 1749. Shortly thereafter, Fielding started courting young Betty. They
+were married in 1750, the bride being given away by her brother George,
+and for a time they lived on a plantation adjoining Ferry Farm. In 1752
+Lewis bought 861 acres of land, adjacent to Fredericksburg, the survey
+being made by George Washington, who had been appointed government
+surveyor in 1748. On this land, with its fine view of the countryside,
+Lewis built Kenmore (called Millbrook at the time) in accordance with a
+promise he had made to his bride.
+
+As time went on, Fielding Lewis became closely associated with the
+political life of Virginia. He was a member of the House of Burgesses
+for many years. He also served in the French and Indian War and was
+Colonel of the Spotsylvania County Militia. It is said that the
+resolution endorsing Patrick Henry in his resistance to the tyranny of
+Governor Dunmore, passed by the Committee of 600 in the Rising Sun
+Tavern in Fredericksburg, was written by him in the Great Room of his
+home, Kenmore, a paper which for all intents and purposes was a
+declaration of independence.
+
+Colonel Lewis was best known for the part he played in the War of
+Independence. In 1776 he became Chairman of the Virginia Committee of
+Safety. Previously, in 1775, the Virginia Assembly had passed an
+ordinance providing for a "Manufactory of Small Arms in Fredericksburg,
+Virginia." Five commissioners were appointed to undertake this project,
+but Colonel Lewis and Charles Dick were the only two who took an active
+part in the work. They were allotted L2,500 with which to secure land,
+buildings and equipment. Soon thereafter they were at work
+manufacturing arms. The first L2,500 were quickly spent, and Lewis and
+Dick were obliged to draw from their own funds to carry on. Lewis
+advanced an additional L7,000 and borrowed L30,000 to L40,000 more.
+Lewis also built a ship for the Virginia Navy, _The Dragon_, and
+equipped three regiments. Kenmore was heavily mortgaged to meet the
+costs of all these patriotic enterprises. When Lewis died in 1781,
+little of the estate was left.
+
+Thereafter, Betty Lewis tried conducting a small boarding school at
+Kenmore, but again money had to be raised and piece after piece of the
+land was sold to obtain it. Finally, in 1796, the mansion and its
+contents were sold and Betty Lewis went to live with her daughter. She
+died the next year.
+
+After many vicissitudes in the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries,
+Kenmore was saved for posterity, in 1922, through the great enthusiasm
+and hard work of a group of women who later formed the Kenmore
+Association. Through the efforts of this association, the exterior and
+the interiors of Kenmore were expertly restored to their original
+charming appearance and it has been furnished with original pieces of
+the period, many of which have an actual connection with the family.
+
+Who the architect of Kenmore was, is unknown. It is very probable that
+Fielding Lewis himself had much to do with the planning of it, making
+use of books on English architecture. The mansion is typical of the
+formal architecture of Tidewater Virginia in the mid-eighteenth century.
+Flanked on each side by smaller service buildings, both of which are
+identical in size and appearance, the group is symmetrical around the
+central entrance. The exteriors present a picture of fine restraint and
+dignity. Four uniformly placed chimneys in the end walls serve eight
+fireplaces. The windows are well proportioned in relation to the main
+walls. The walls, of brick laid in Flemish bond, or brickwork pattern,
+are two feet thick--unusually heavy construction for a house of even
+this size.
+
+The principal rooms, of stately proportions, are remarkable for their
+design and ornament. The richly modelled ceilings, cornices, and
+overmantels are outstanding examples of ornamental plater-work--quite
+unsurpassed by anything of its kind in America. It has always been said
+and never contradicted that these ornamental features were planned by
+George Washington himself.
+
+To the right, as one enters the Reception Hall, tinted in pastel
+blue-gray, is the well designed main stairway, a noteworthy feature of
+which is the delicately carved lotus leaf ornament. In back is the
+prized grandfather clock which originally belonged to Mary Washington.
+
+Passing through the arched doorway at the rear of the Hall, one enters
+the Great Room. For the magnificent ceiling of this room, Colonel Lewis
+employed the same French decorator whom Washington had employed for the
+ornamental ceilings at Mount Vernon. The design motif includes four
+horns of plenty. Tradition has it that the overmantel in the Great Room
+was done at a later time than the other decorations by two Hessian
+soldiers captured at the Battle of Trenton. The design, an adaptation of
+AEsop's fable of the fox, the crow, and the piece of cheese, is supposed
+to have been suggested by George Washington at the request of his
+sister; this particular fable being chosen to teach his nephews to
+beware of flattery. The rich red of the brocade draperies contrasts with
+the light green of the walls and the white of the ceiling and mantel. A
+crystal chandelier of old Waterford glass forms a sparkling accent in
+the middle of the room. The floor is covered almost entirely with an
+early eighteenth century Oushak rug. The furniture in this room as well
+as elsewhere generally is American of Chippendale design. Of particular
+note are two portraits of Fielding, and two of Betty Lewis--all four by
+Wollaston.
+
+The ceiling of the Library has the four seasons for its decorative motif
+and the overmantel is a design of fruits and flowers. The walls, like
+those of the Great Room, are tinted a soft green.
+
+"The Swan and Crown" of the Washington crest is carved in the woodwork
+under the mantel in the Dining Room. The walls are a deep blue-green,
+the woodwork a lighter matching shade. Draperies are a soft green
+brocade. The service building on the Dining Room side of the House
+contains the kitchen.
+
+On the second floor are the master bedrooms and guest room where General
+Lafayette and many another distinguished visitor stayed. These
+eighteenth century rooms, so well treated and furnished, serve as
+timeless models of good taste in bedrooms.
+
+Next to Mount Vernon, George Washington was most interested in Kenmore.
+He had taken a keen interest from the beginning in the building of the
+House and the landscaping of the grounds. After the War he set out
+thirteen chestnut trees near the House, one for each of the original
+thirteen States. One of these still lives. Mary Washington, mother of
+George and Betty, lived in the cottage on the estate, not far from the
+Main House; a home her son had provided for her at the beginning of the
+War.
+
+The restoration of the grounds was undertaken by the Garden Club of
+Virginia in 1929 with funds obtained from the public participation in
+the first "Virginia Garden Week." One feature of this work is the brick
+wall around the premises, built in 1930. The sunken turf driveway is the
+original driveway that used to surround a grassy circle. Handsome box
+bushes, ancient and familiar features of Virginia estates, flank the
+approaches to the House now as of old. The gardens, too, contain flowers
+that Betty Washington must have enjoyed--bushes of lilac, mock orange,
+and bridal wreath and beds of pansies, sweet william, phlox, verbena and
+lilies of the valley.
+
+Kenmore, a background of those lives who helped so importantly to mould
+the destinies of our nation, vividly portrays the art and the culture of
+its time.
+
+
+
+
+The Mary Washington House
+
+
+There stands on the corner of Charles and Lewis Streets in
+Fredericksburg, Virginia, an unpretentious but charming little house.
+There is no spot in America more sacred. It was the home of Mary Ball
+Washington, wife of Augustine Washington, and the mother of George
+Washington.
+
+It is recorded that on Dec. 8, 1761 lots 107 and 108 upon which the Mary
+Washington House stands were sold by Fielding Lewis and Betty, his wife,
+with all houses, trees, woods, under-woods, profits commodities,
+hereditaments and appurtenances whatsoever, to Michael Robinson for
+L250 and bought by George Washington Sept. 18, 1772 for L275.
+
+After remodeling and adding to the house, George Washington moved his
+mother from the Ferry Farm, which had been her home since 1739, to
+Fredericksburg and it was here that she spent her last days.
+
+[Illustration: "THE MARY WASHINGTON HOUSE", FREDERICKSBURG, VIRGINIA]
+
+It was here that she received the courier sent by General Washington to
+tell her of the victory at Trenton. It was here that Washington came
+after the Battle of Yorktown with the French and American officers and
+she received him with thanksgiving after an absence of nearly seven
+years. It was here he came in December, 1783, when Fredericksburg gave
+the Peace Ball in his honor, and it was at that time that he made his
+memorable reply to Mayor McWilliams in which he spoke of Fredericksburg
+as "the place of my growing infancy."
+
+It was here that the Marquis de LaFayette came to pay his respects to
+her, who was the mother of the greatest American. She received him in
+her garden, met all his fine phrases with dignity and gave him her
+blessing when he bade her goodbye.
+
+It was here, March 12, 1789, that Washington came to receive his
+mother's blessing before he went on to New York to his inauguration.
+This was his last farewell to his mother. She did not not live to see
+him again. It was here she died Aug. 25, 1789. Town and country
+assembled to do honor at her burial. Her remains lie near the
+"Meditation Rock" where she requested to be buried and a stately
+monument "erected by her country-women" marks her last resting place.
+
+Except for a portion of the house at Epping Forest, where she was born,
+the Mary Washington House in Fredericksburg is the only house now
+standing in which Mary Washington lived.
+
+It passed into various hands and finally in 1890 it was about to be sold
+to the Chicago Exposition but through Mrs. Robert C. Beale and Mrs.
+Spotswood W. Carmichael, the Association for the Preservation of
+Virginia Antiquities was appealed to. Mrs. Joseph Bryan of blessed
+memory was at that time President and from her own means advanced the
+money to purchase it, $4,500, and the place was saved.
+
+In 1929, through the generosity of Mr. George A. Ball of Muncie, Ind.,
+the first work of restoration on the house was done. Mr. Ball also
+purchased for the A. P. V. A. the adjoining house and garden for a home
+for the custodian.
+
+In 1930 the house was redecorated and refurnished by Mr. and Mrs.
+Francis P. Garvan. The original colors have been restored and
+contemporary fabrics used for all draperies and coverings.
+
+The furnishings, with the exception of a few pieces that belonged to
+Mary Washington, are authentic antiques loaned from the Mabel Brady
+Garvan Institute of American Arts and Crafts at Yale University. The
+original mantels and paneling are interesting.
+
+The old English-type garden is especially beautiful. The boxwood she
+planted still grows there, as well as the flowers of her time. The
+original sun-dial still marks the sunny hours.
+
+
+
+
+Rising Sun Tavern
+
+
+Was built about 1760 by Charles Washington, a brother of George
+Washington. It was first known as the Washington Tavern and later as the
+Eagle Tavern. The following advertisement appeared in the _Virginia
+Gazette_, published in Williamsburg in 1776:
+
+     "FALMOUTH, _March 25, 1776_.
+
+     "William Smith takes this method to acquaint his friends, and
+     the publick in general, that he intends to open tavern, on
+     Monday the 22nd day of April next, in the house lately occupied
+     by Colonel George Weedon, in the town of Fredericksburg. He has
+     laid in a good stock of liquors, and will use his utmost
+     endeavors to give general satisfaction. N.B. 'A good cook wench
+     wanted, on hire'."
+
+[Illustration: "RISING SUN TAVERN", FREDERICKSBURG, VIRGINIA]
+
+It was the favorite meeting place of such patriots as Thomas Jefferson,
+Patrick Henry, James Monroe, George Washington, General Hugh Mercer,
+George Mason, John Marshall, the Lees, and other noted men, who gathered
+here to protest against unjust treatment by the mother country and to
+discuss the proper steps to rid the country of tyranny. It was said to
+be a hot-bed of sedition and that here much of the head work of the
+Revolution was done.
+
+When the news came to Fredericksburg that the governor, Lord Dunmore,
+had secretly removed twenty barrels of gunpowder from the public
+magazine in Williamsburg, also the news of the battle of Lexington,
+there was great excitement and indignation. Immediately six hundred
+armed men from the town and surrounding country, at the call of Patrick
+Henry, assembled in Fredericksburg and offered their services to defend
+their country. More than one hundred men were dispatched to Richmond and
+Williamsburg to ascertain the condition of affairs. They were advised
+there by Washington, Peyton Randolph, Edmund Pendleton and other leaders
+to disband and delay action at least for a while or until general plans
+of resistance could be decided upon. Returning to Fredericksburg they
+called a meeting and reluctantly agreed to disperse, but before doing so
+adopted resolutions bitterly denouncing Dunmore's action, and without
+fear or evasion declared that the troops would preserve their liberty at
+the hazard of their lives and fortune. They pledged themselves to
+re-assemble at a moment's warning and by force of arms defend the laws
+and rights of this or any other sister colony from unjust invasion, and
+concluded with the significant words, "God save the liberties of
+America."
+
+This was on April 29, 1775, twenty-one days prior to the celebrated
+Mecklenburg declaration and more than one year before the great
+Declaration of Independence of July 4, 1776.
+
+It has always been said that this meeting was held at the Rising Sun
+Tavern. (Reference: Quinn's _History of Fredericksburg_, Howison's
+_History of Virginia_, Forces' _Archives_, quoted in _William and Mary
+Quarterly_ in October, 1909.)
+
+But in addition to giving their attention to the serious questions of
+the day, could we but raise the curtain of Time we no doubt would
+witness a gay scene typical of colonial days with courtly gentlemen in
+powdered wigs, knee breeches, ruffled blouses, and silver-buckled
+slippers, or perhaps in the rougher garb of the pioneer traveler playing
+cards and partaking of the various drinks served by a venerable old
+slave and his young negro assistants. It is recorded that George
+Washington played cards here and "lost as usual," and that he was afraid
+those Fredericksburg fellows were "too smart for him."
+
+Here General Weedon kept the post office. This was a distributing point
+for mails coming in from the far north and south on horse-back or
+stage-coach. Picture the eager crowd awaiting the arrival of the slow
+courier.
+
+LaFayette and his staff of French and American officers visited the
+Rising Sun Tavern Nov. 11, 1781, en route from Yorktown to
+Philadelphia. In December, 1824, LaFayette again visited Fredericksburg,
+and was given a ball at the Rising Sun Tavern.
+
+In 1907 the Association for the Preservation of Virginia Antiquities
+bought the property from Judge A. W. Wallace, whose family had owned it
+since 1792. It was in a very bad state of dilapidation, and only the
+loving interest and hard work of a few patriotic ladies made possible
+the necessary repairs and saved to posterity this historic old building
+with its wealth of associations with the people and events which shaped
+our nation.
+
+The Association for the Preservation of Virginia Antiquities has
+recently completed extensive repairs and the visitor will find it one of
+the most interesting places in the city to visit. It is attractively
+furnished with antique pieces of the Colonial period, many having great
+historic value.
+
+One may see a desk owned and used by Thomas Jefferson, a chair which
+belonged to James Monroe, a rare copy of an autographed letter from Mary
+Washington to her son George Washington, brass andirons, pewter-hooded
+candles, Betty lamp, immense iron key for a wine cellar, brass
+candle-sticks, iron candle snuffers, pewter ink-well, antique piano,
+high boy, needle-point sampler worked by a nine-year-old child, spinning
+wheel and reel, stage coach sign dated 1775, large early American desk,
+old iron cooking utensils used by slaves cooking by an open fireplace,
+and many other interesting things.
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+Roanoke
+
+THE GATEWAY TO THE GREAT SOUTHWESTERN EMPIRE
+
+
+Raw-re-noke is an Indian word for money. The city of Roanoke was
+originally a land grant to Thomas Tosh, an old settler who came to "Big
+Lick" and settled there after King George II and King George III had
+granted him sixteen hundred acres of land along that fertile valley.
+"Big Lick" was a favorite spot for the wild game and for the Indians
+too, for there they found the salt so necessary to life itself. One of
+Tosh's daughters married General Andrew Lewis and became the mother of
+Major Andrew Lewis and Thomas Lewis.
+
+Later on, as more settlers came into the valley, quite a village grew up
+around "Big Lick" and in 1874 it was incorporated with John Trout as
+Mayor. Then in 1881 the village woke up. Saws and hammers were heard
+from dawn 'til dusk. The Roanoke Machine Works were being built. Nearby,
+stores and houses were springing up, warehouses and boarding-houses.
+Surveyors were laying off lots and laying out streets. Contractors and
+engineers, artisans and mechanics were coming in every day. The men who
+sold supplies for all of these were indeed busy. The Norfolk and Western
+Railroad had come to Roanoke!
+
+Old folks can still remember when rabbits ran over the grounds where
+stands the Hotel Roanoke. Small boys picked up Indian arrow-heads where
+now the beautiful grounds sweep down to the Station itself. They still
+tell how Salem Avenue was once a marsh and was later filled in for the
+fast growing town. Then came the union of the Norfolk and Western and
+the Shenandoah Valley Railroads. From that day to this, Roanoke has been
+the "Magic City." It was as if some magic wand had been waved over the
+one-time little village. But actually it was due to the industry and
+vision of the city planners who had built for the future. Commercial,
+manufacturing and industrial activities kept a pace ahead of the fast
+growing town. Among the first of these were the American Bridge Works
+and the rolling mills, iron works, West End Furnaces and the Virginia
+Brewing Company.
+
+Long ago "Big Lick" was known to a few. It was situated in the Blue
+Ridge Mountains, surrounded by rolling valleys and watered by springs of
+crystal clear waters. Other streams made it an ideal place for the
+herds of buffalo and elk which roamed up and down the Valley of the
+Great Spirit. Indians came, too, to hunt them and thousands of smaller
+fur-bearing animals and birds for their feasts.
+
+When the sturdy settlers from Ireland and Scotland came to seek a new
+home in the wilderness, they chose to follow the Great Road which later
+was known as the Wilderness Road. This led them along the beautiful
+valleys and across the mountains; soon tiny cabins, churches and crude
+taverns were being built.
+
+Near where Fincastle stands today, there came a man years ago from
+Ireland, Thomas King. He had left behind his second wife, Easter, three
+children by his first wife, and several younger ones by Easter. He had
+come to make a home for them in Fincastle County and ran a tavern near
+where Roanoke stands today.
+
+Then Easter wrote him that his oldest son, William, had arrived in
+Philadelphia and was working for a merchant. He was peddling merchandise
+and liked the new country.
+
+Thomas was delighted and eager to see his fourteen-year-old son. He
+saddled his own horse and led a pony all the miles down the long Valley
+trail. He passed such settlements as Staunton, Lexington, Winchester,
+Hagerstown, camping out or, stopping at some settler's house over-night.
+It took weeks for him to make the long trip.
+
+The merchant in the meantime realized he had a smart salesman in William
+and he made a bargain with him a few days before his father arrived. He
+asked him not to work for anyone else and set a time limit for his
+employment with him.
+
+We can imagine how William felt when his father came, bringing a pony
+for him to ride back to Virginia. But he kept his word. He continued to
+go out with his peddler's pack on his back and his bright smile and
+polite manners helped him to sell his wares long before others sold
+theirs. The merchant told him he could go peddling to Virginia and that
+he could leave some of his articles in his father's tavern. William did
+this, leaving them at other taverns along the Great Road, too. And thus
+began the early chain stores.
+
+When the pioneers began going on farther down the Southwestern part of
+Virginia, Thomas King went as far as where Abingdon stands today. He
+sent William back to Ireland for his step-mother and his brothers and
+sisters. William now had a little money and he inherited some from his
+grandmother, so he not only brought his family over, but he paid for
+several other Scotch-Irish and charged a little extra as interest until
+they could repay him.
+
+He liked the people and the lovely country around Abingdon and bought
+land and built himself a home there. He went to see the salt marsh a few
+miles away where Saltville is now. This land was owned by General
+Russell. William urged him to develop the marsh, for at one time Indians
+had come there to get salt to preserve their game. But General Russell
+did not think much of the plan, and agreed to sell it to William.
+
+The story of how he laughed, along with others, at William King when he
+dug and dug and did not find the salt spring is often told. But when
+William's men had dug for one hundred and ninety feet the "bottom
+dropped out" and the salt water gushed forth. William made thirty
+thousand dollars a year out of his salt business and left a fortune to
+his many nieces and nephews.
+
+Roanoke is the gateway through which the visitor continues down the
+famous Valley Pike, Route Eleven. From every curve in the road one sees
+the beauty of nature. One learns bits of early history from the numerous
+historic signs along the route--for every footstep of the brave pioneers
+was bitterly contested from here on.
+
+These first settlers were "a remarkable race of people for intelligence,
+enterprise and hardy adventure." They had come partly from Botetourt,
+Augusta and Frederick counties and from Maryland and Pennsylvania. They
+wanted liberty and freedom to worship God as a man's conscience
+dictated. They were a strong, stern people, simple in their habits of
+life, God-fearing in their practices, freedom-loving and good neighbors,
+yet unmerciful in their dealing with their enemies. Who were the trail
+blazers for these Scotch-Irish and Germans?
+
+Dr. Thomas Walker qualified as a surveyor of Augusta County in 1748. He
+later set off with Colonel James Wood, Colonel James Patton, Colonel
+John Buchanan, and Major Charles Campbell, some hunters and John Finlay
+to explore southwest Virginia.
+
+They were followed as far as New River by Thomas Ingles (or Engles) and
+his three sons, a Mrs. Draper and her son George and her daughter Mary,
+Adam Harman, Henry Leonard and James Burke. They were pioneers in search
+of new homes in the wilderness. Lands were surveyed for all of them on
+Wood's River and they made the first settlement west of the Alleghany
+Divide.
+
+
+
+
+Draper's Meadow
+
+
+In 1748 Thomas Ingles and his three sons, Mrs. Draper, her children and
+James Burke moved westward to find a new home for themselves beyond the
+Blue Ridge Mountains. They chose a lovely spot on a high level plateau
+in what is now Montgomery County. They called their new home, "Draper's
+Meadow," and soon their new log cabins were built and their first crops
+were planted and such a harvest as they reaped that first year! Other
+neighbors and relatives from their old homes came to join them and for
+some time all went well in the little settlement. James Burke had been
+restless and had pushed on down into the southwest and settled in a
+valley enclosed for almost ten miles by the huge Clinch Mountain. This
+he called "Burke's Garden" and in telling others about it the old
+settler said "I have indeed found the Garden of Eden."
+
+The Indians were very friendly and passed and repassed the settlement
+without molesting them.
+
+Then came the trouble with the French which has been referred to before.
+The Indians swooped down upon Draper's Meadow without warning and killed
+or wounded most of the settlers. Those whom they did not murder, they
+carried off into captivity. Among the latter were Mrs. William Ingles
+(nee Mary Draper) some of her children and another woman. They were
+forced to march for days at a time until they finally reached the Indian
+towns on the Ohio River. During the trying days, Mrs. Draper did her
+best to keep in the good graces of the Indians. She tried to help them,
+even after they took her sons from her. When they reached Big Bone Lick
+she helped to make salt for the Indians and made shirts for them from
+cloth which had been bought from the French traders.
+
+She often thought of her home over seven hundred miles from the Indian
+towns and determined to make her escape. She confided her resolves to
+the other woman who at first objected to going. At last she convinced
+her the time was at hand, if ever, for them to leave. She left her
+infant son one night, and with her friend, stole away from the camp.
+They lived for days on berries and nuts. They finally killed small game
+and after many adventures reached the home of a settler forty long days
+later.
+
+Mrs. Draper's friend lost her mind, tried to kill her and then left her.
+Mrs. Draper reached the homestead of Adam Harmon on New River. There he
+heard her crying in his cornfield and went out to see who it was in such
+distress. He and his family cared for her and made her rest before she
+was taken back to her family.
+
+The Ingles families moved up higher on New River and built another fort
+near the present city of Radford, Virginia. This was at Ingle's Ferry.
+
+Botetourt County was cut from Albemarle in 1770, and William Preston was
+made surveyor of the lands. This was a well-paying position. He had
+fallen in love with Miss Susannah Smith who lived in Eastern Virginia in
+Hanover County. He built a house for her and called it Smithfield in her
+honor. Soon the Pattons, Peytons, Prestons, the Thompsons and many
+others were coming to build homes near them.
+
+When the Prestons moved to Smithfield they took a young orphan boy with
+them, Joseph Cloyd. His father had died when he was very little and his
+mother had been killed by the Indians. He grew up with the other pioneer
+boys and girls and later settled on Back Creek. This home is near where
+Pulaski stands today and thus began another settlement. He was the
+father of General Gordon Cloyd and they founded a long line of honorable
+citizens in our country.
+
+As one goes on he hears many strange tales of other explorers and
+settlers. For instance there is the sad story of Colonel John Chiswell
+who found rich lead mines near New River in what is now Wythe County.
+For some unknown reason, he had killed a man in a personal encounter and
+was put in jail to await trial.
+
+[Illustration:--_Courtesy Virginia State Chamber of Commerce_
+
+SCENIC HIGHWAY IN SOUTHWEST VIRGINIA]
+
+In the meantime, the Virginia Council decided to develop the mines and a
+fort was ordered to be built. Before the trial came off and before the
+fort was built, Colonel Chiswell died.
+
+Colonel William Boyd was made supervisor of the building of the fort and
+he named it for his friend, Colonel Chiswell. Soon settlers began
+building homes around it, for the climate and rich grazing lands made it
+an ideal spot for homesteads.
+
+The settlers pushing southwest from Roanoke built a fort and named it
+for a Mr. Vass. The Indians attacked them and several were killed. This
+was near where Christiansburg is now located. It was near Vass's Fort
+that General Washington, Major Andrew Lewis and Captain William Preston
+had a narrow escape from an attack by the Indians.
+
+
+
+
+Washington County
+
+
+In 1754 only six families were living in the early settlement west of
+New River. Two of these were in Pulaski, two on Cripple Creek in Wythe
+County, one in Smyth County and the Burke family in what is now Tazewell
+County. The Indians gave the settlers so much trouble that any further
+attempts to settle was given up until after the French and Indian War.
+
+A small fort, called Black's Fort, was built when the settlers moved
+into the Valley around where Abingdon stands. Like most of its kind, it
+was built of logs, and a few log cabins were built within the stockade.
+Here to these cabins within the fort came the settlers whenever the
+warning reached them that the Indians were coming.
+
+Near the fort lived Parson Cummings, called the Fighting Parson. He was
+an Irishman who had come to the Valley from Lancaster, Pennsylvania. He
+fought against the Cherokee Indians in 1776 with Colonel Christian. He
+first settled in Fincastle, but soon drifted farther south. It was he
+who drafted the Fincastle Resolutions on January 20, 1775 and served on
+the Committee of Safety for Washington County.
+
+On one occasion, when the settlers were residing within the fort, food
+became very scarce. Someone had to go back into the clearing and bring
+in supplies. Parson Cummings and a few other men started off with a
+wagon to get them. They had not gone far when they reached Piper's Hill.
+A party of Indians surprised the little band and one of them was killed.
+Everyone made a dash for the bushes. The Parson was very stout and he
+was wearing a large powdered wig which was considered in those days
+necessary to the cloth. This made him more conspicuous and of course a
+target for the Indians.
+
+One Indian ran after him, brandishing his tomahawk. The Parson dodged
+under a bush and as he left it, his wig was caught by a low hanging
+limb. The Indian took for granted that it was the Parson's head and made
+a bound to get it. When he took it in his hands, he was surprised to
+find no head there! He was disgusted and angry and threw it upon the
+ground exclaiming, "D--d lie," and doggedly gave up the chase. And thus
+the Parson escaped. The man who was killed was later buried in Abingdon
+and one may read his name, "William Creswell, July 4, 1776" on the crude
+stone which marks his grave.
+
+Dragon Canone was the name of the Cherokee Indian who led his warriors
+against the white militia. Both white and red men fought with tomahawks
+and both hid behind trees. Sometimes this brave militia went forth to
+battle without any higher commanding officer than captain. Three such
+officers were John Campbell, James Shelby and James Thompson.
+
+Let us look for a moment at what those settlers were denied. They did
+not have flour or salt until an order was made:
+
+     "Jan. 29, 1777. Ordered that William Campbell, William
+     Edmundson, John Anderson and George Blackburn be appointed
+     commissioners to hire wagons to bring up the county salt,
+     allotted by the Governor and council, and to receive and
+     distribute the same agreeably to said order of the council."
+
+Later on Colonel Arthur Campbell rode with seven hundred mounted
+soldiers against the Cherokees. History gives him the credit of being
+the first to experiment in attacking Indians on horseback. He destroyed
+fourteen of their towns and burnt fifty thousand bushels of their corn
+after giving his men enough for their own horses.
+
+
+
+
+Hungry Mother State Park
+
+
+The pathetic legend is told of the pioneer woman in Tazewell County who
+was carried off by the Indians and was massacred some distance from
+home. Her small child was left to die of exposure and starvation in the
+mountain wilds and was at last rescued by a hunting party. The child was
+pulling at the mother's body, trying to rouse her and was muttering,
+"Hungry, mother--hungry, mother" when he was found.
+
+That is the origin of the name of the mountain which is not far from
+Marion, and the peak of the mountain is called "Molly's Knob" in memory
+of the pioneer mother.
+
+The State has created a beautiful park on Hungry Mother Mountain. Cabins
+have been erected to house the visitors, a stream has been dammed up to
+provide a lake--and most astonishing of all to the mountain folk who
+enjoy their park is the sandy beach. The sand was hauled 375 miles from
+Virginia Beach to its present location.
+
+Swimming, sailing and canoeing are popular water sports; saddle horses
+are available and hiking is a favorite occupation. Ample picnic grounds
+have been provided. Crowds from nearby towns enjoy a day at the Park and
+the cabins are in great demand from the vacationists in Virginia and
+surrounding States.
+
+
+
+
+White Top
+
+
+Iron Mountain has lost that name and today is known far and near as
+White Top. The visitor looks down five thousand feet below and can see
+into Tennessee, West Virginia, North Carolina and Kentucky. The top is
+bald, rocky and about three hundred of its sloping acres are covered
+with a fine white grass. In summer one sees hundreds of wild flowers,
+sturdy evergreens, similar to Norway spruce, called Lashhorns, berries
+and many small animals.
+
+[Illustration:--_Courtesy Virginia Conservation Commission_
+
+HUNGRY MOTHER STATE PARK]
+
+Wilbur Waters, the hermit, is one of the most colorful characters in the
+great Southwest and many adventures he had with wild animals. Wilbur's
+mother was an Indian who died when he was very small. His father, who
+lived in North Carolina at the time, apprenticed the boy to a shoemaker
+to learn that trade. The little boy, no doubt homesick, could not stand
+his new home. He ran away and from that time on made his own living.
+When he heard how the wolves were making havoc for the settlers in and
+around Abingdon, he came to get the rewards offered for their heads. He
+built himself a rude shack on White Top, and if one would read real
+adventure tales, let him read _Wilbur Waters_ which relates many
+stirring ones.
+
+Every summer during August a festival is held at White Top where
+mountain music is played and folk dances are held. John Powell, the
+noted Virginia composer, is especially active in the preservation of
+folk music and he has been instrumental in attracting people of
+influence to the celebration.
+
+The major highways lead to within a comparatively short distance of
+White Top and the State Highway Department assures the traveler of good
+secondary roads which are passable in any kind of weather.
+
+Another feature of the festival usually is the presentation of at least
+one play by the group of Broadway players who summer at Abingdon and
+conduct the famous "Barter Theatre."
+
+Visitors who include White Top and the Barter players in their itinerary
+will be delighted with the diversified entertainments found there.
+
+
+
+
+Transcriber's Note.
+
+
+The following typographical errors have been corrected:
+
+    p. 2   a brace of deer ran familiarly [had 'familarly']
+    p. 24  the Reverend Samuel Brown [had 'Reverened']
+    p. 31  the Blue Ridge and the Alleghany [had 'Alleghaney']
+    p. 47  been made into a poultice [had 'poultrice']
+    p. 49  wagon makers? Of course there were none [had 'Af']
+    p. 60  Luray is the Saltpetre Cave. [had 'Saltpeper']
+    p. 61  no one anticipated the conspicuous role [had 'conspicious']
+    p. 80  point: Rockfish and Shenandoah valleys. [Closing . added]
+    p. 83  Bridge, and some are still in existence [had 'existance']
+    p. 103 the Statute of Virginia for religious freedom [had 'Statue']
+    p. 106 Captain Lewis was first in command and he [had 'commond']
+    p. 108 of the Revolution had his apothecary shop [had 'Reevolution']
+    p. 112 Colonel of the Spotsylvania County Militia [had 'Spottsylvania']
+
+Inconsistent hyphenation of some words in the original has been
+retained.
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Legends of the Skyline Drive and the
+Great Valley of Virginia, by Carrie Hunter Willis and Etta Belle Walker
+
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