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diff --git a/33018-h/33018-h.htm b/33018-h/33018-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..d4b5997 --- /dev/null +++ b/33018-h/33018-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,6142 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> +<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" xml:lang="en" lang="en"> + <head> + <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=iso-8859-1" /> + <meta http-equiv="Content-Style-Type" content="text/css" /> + <title> + The Project Gutenberg eBook of Legends of the Skyline Drive and the Great Valley of Virginia, by Carrie Hunter Willis and Etta Belle Walker. + </title> + <style type="text/css"> + +body {margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%;} +h1,h2,h3, +h4,h5,h6 {text-align: center; clear: both;} +.tnote {padding-bottom: .5em; padding-top: .5em; padding-left: .5em; padding-right: .5em; + margin-left: 1em; margin-top: 1em; font-size: smaller; background: #eeeeee; border: solid 1px;} +ins.mycorr {text-decoration: none; border-bottom: 1px dotted #FF0000;} +p {margin-top: .75em; text-align: justify; margin-bottom: .75em;} +hr {width: 33%; margin-top: 2em; margin-bottom: 2em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; clear: both;} +a {text-decoration: none;} +table {margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;} +.pagenum {position: absolute; left: 92%; font-size: smaller; text-align: right;} +.rpos {position: absolute; right: 20%; text-align: right;} +.blockquot { margin-left: 5%; margin-right: 10%;} +.blockquot2 {text-indent:-1em;padding-left:1em; margin-left: 5%; margin-right: 10%;} +.center {text-align: center;} +.right {text-align: right;} +.smcap {font-variant: small-caps;} +.caption {font-weight: bold; text-align:center; font-variant: small-caps;} +.attrib {text-align:right; font-size:0.8em; margin-top:0.1em;} +.figcenter {margin: auto; text-align: center; } +.figleft {float: left; clear: left; margin-left: 0; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-top: 1em; + margin-right: 1em; padding: 0; text-align: center;} +.figright {float: right; clear: right; margin-left: 1em; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-top: 1em; + margin-right: 0; padding: 0; text-align: center;} +.poem {width:15em; margin-left:auto; margin-right:auto; text-align: left;} +.poem br {display: none;} +.poem .stanza {margin: 1em 0em 1em 0em;} +.poem span.i0 { + display: block; + margin-left: 0em; + padding-left: 3em; + text-indent: -3em; +} +.poem span.i2 { + display: block; + margin-left: 2em; + padding-left: 3em; + text-indent: -3em; +} +.poem span.i4 { + display: block; + margin-left: 4em; + padding-left: 3em; + text-indent: -3em; +} + </style> + </head> +<body> + + +<pre> + +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Legends of the Skyline Drive and the Great +Valley of Virginia, by Carrie Hunter Willis and Etta Belle Walker + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Legends of the Skyline Drive and the Great Valley of Virginia + +Author: Carrie Hunter Willis + Etta Belle Walker + +Release Date: June 29, 2010 [EBook #33018] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LEGENDS OF THE SKYLINE DRIVE *** + + + + +Produced by Mark C. Orton, Louise Pattison and the Online +Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net + + + + + + +</pre> + + +<div class="tnote"> +<h3>Transcriber's Note:</h3> +<p class="center"><a href="#corrections">Corrections</a> are highlighted <ins class="mycorr" title ="Original: lkie tihs">like this</ins>. +Mouse over to see the original text.</p> +</div> + +<h1> +<span class="smcap">Legends</span><br /><br /> +of the<br /><br /> +<span class="smcap">Skyline Drive</span><br /><br /> +and the<br /><br /> +Great Valley of Virginia<br /></h1> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 50px;"> +<img src="images/logo.png" width="50" height="43" alt="" title="" /> +</div> +<p class="center smcap"><big>By<br /> +Carrie Hunter Willis<br /> +and<br /> +Etta Belle Walker</big></p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 150px;"><br /> +<img src="images/logo.png" width="50" height="43" alt="" title="" /> + +<img src="images/logo.png" width="50" height="43" alt="" title="" /> +<br /> +</div> + +<p class="center">RICHMOND, VA.:</p> + +<p class="center"><span class="smcap">The Dietz Press</span>, <i>Publishers</i></p> + +<p class="center">1940</p> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<p class="center smcap">Copyright, 1940</p> +<p class="center">BY<br /> +CARRIE HUNTER WILLIS<br /> +AND<br /> +ETTA BELLE WALKER</p> +<p class="center"><br /><br /><i>Printed in the United States of America</i></p> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Foreword" id="Foreword"></a>Foreword</h2> + +<p>Tucked away among the hills and valleys in and near the +Shenandoah National Park and the Great Valley of Virginia are +stories of the beginnings of the white man's life beyond the +comparative ease of early Tidewater Virginia. These stories are +true ones and they depict something of the courage and hardihood +of the early Virginia pioneer. Perhaps in reading of their lives +we may catch something of the majesty and charm of their surroundings +which were reflected to a marked degree in their way +of living. Surely they must often have said, "I will look unto +the hills from whence cometh my strength" or how else may we +account for the developments which came as the result of their +constant struggle for survival?</p> + +<p>Stories of colonial Virginia on the eastern seaboard are numerous +and usually exciting but they are quite different from the +tales beyond the Piedmont. A combination of them may enable +us to know Virginia as a whole in a more appreciative way.</p> + +<p>Long before the Knights of the Golden Horseshoe ever set +foot in the wilds of Virginia, intrepid explorers had passed +through various parts of the Valley country.</p> + +<p>In 1654—more than sixty years before the Governor's expedition—Colonel +Abraham Wood received permission to explore +beyond the mountains. His purpose was to establish trade relations +with the Indians. His journey carried him through the +lower Blue Ridge, crossing the range near the Virginia-North +Carolina line.</p> + +<p>Reference is made elsewhere of the explorations conducted by +the one-time monk, John Lederer, whose journal of the trip was +first translated from German and published in London in 1672.</p> + +<p>Let us plainly understand however that each of these trips was +of a migratory nature; not a thought was entertained by any of +the participants of remaining in the Virginia mountains. Any +white man found in these sections at this time was there because +of good hunting grounds, hopes of good trading, the zeal of a +missionary spirit or love of adventure and exploration.</p> + +<p>The earliest settlers in the Valley in most part came either from +Maryland or Pennsylvania. They came in search of rich, cheap +land or for economic reasons or in the hope of establishing +greater freedom for themselves and their children.</p> + +<p>Two nationalities invaded the Great Valley almost simultaneously: +the Germans and Scotch-Irish—both fine, sturdy, healthy +and thrifty stock which is reflected in marked degree among the +present inhabitants of the region. Their real interest in the new +settlements may truthfully be said to have begun about 1730 +when land grants were obtained. About two years later the +actual move into the country and the house building commenced +in earnest.</p> + +<p>The German settlers located chiefly along the territory extending +from Winchester to Staunton. The Scotch-Irish on the other +hand selected Staunton and the valley south of the town for their +claims. No nice distinction can be made so easily, for we shall +find the two groups interspersed all along the entire length of +the Valley. But generally speaking their domains may be defined +thus.</p> + +<p>So much fighting during the wars of our country could not have +been fought in this section of the State without leaving in its +wake the stories of chivalry, courage and accomplishment, a few +of which are included.</p> + +<p>It is our desire that the trips along the Skyline Drive and in +the Great Valley country may be enriched and the imagination +stirred because of the accounts included in this small book.</p> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Table_of_Contents" id="Table_of_Contents"></a>Table of Contents</h2> + +<table id="toc" summary="Table of Contents"> +<tr><td></td><td><span class="smcap">Page</span></td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap">Knights of the Golden Horseshoe</span></td><td class="right"><a href="#Page_1">1</a></td></tr> +<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 1em;">Progress to the Mines</span></td><td class="right"><a href="#Page_2">2</a></td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap">Adam Miller and His Neighbors</span></td><td class="right"><a href="#Page_5">5</a></td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap">Joist Hite, the Pioneer</span></td><td class="right"><a href="#Page_7">7</a></td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap">German Neighbors</span>, Quakers</td><td class="right"><a href="#Page_9">9</a></td></tr> +<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 1em;">Dunkards</span></td><td class="right"><a href="#Page_11">11</a></td><td></td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap">The Scotch-Irish in the Valley</span></td><td class="right"><a href="#Page_12">12</a></td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap">Indians</span></td><td class="right"><a href="#Page_15">15</a></td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap">Indian Tales</span></td><td class="right"><a href="#Page_18">18</a></td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap">The Moore Massacre</span></td><td class="right"><a href="#Page_20">20</a></td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap">Washington's Boyhood Friend—Lord Fairfax</span></td><td class="right"><a href="#Page_24">24</a></td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap">Winchester—The Frontier Town of the Valley</span></td><td class="right"><a href="#Page_26">26</a></td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap">The Valley Pike</span></td><td class="right"><a href="#Page_31">31</a></td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap">Berryville</span></td><td class="right"><a href="#Page_33">33</a></td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap">Front Royal</span></td><td class="right"><a href="#Page_34">34</a></td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap">Flint Hill</span></td><td class="right"><a href="#Page_36">36</a></td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap">The Skyline Drive</span></td><td class="right"><a href="#Page_37">37</a></td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap">Strasburg</span></td><td class="right"><a href="#Page_40">40</a></td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap">Orkney Springs</span></td><td class="right"><a href="#Page_42">42</a></td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap">Stephens City</span></td><td class="right"><a href="#Page_42">42</a></td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap">Middletown</span></td><td class="right"><a href="#Page_43">43</a></td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap">The Story Teller of the Valley—Samuel Kercheval</span></td><td class="right"></td></tr> +<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 1em;">Pioneer Life</span></td><td class="right"><a href="#Page_44">44</a></td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap">Woodstock</span></td><td class="right"><a href="#Page_53">53</a></td></tr> +<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 1em;">The Lincoln Family</span></td><td class="right"><a href="#Page_55">55</a></td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap">New Market</span></td><td class="right"><a href="#Page_56">56</a></td></tr> +<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 1em;">Endless Caverns</span></td><td class="right"><a href="#Page_57">57</a></td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap">Luray</span></td><td class="right"><a href="#Page_59">59</a></td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap">Stonewall Jackson's Valley Campaign</span></td><td class="right"><a href="#Page_61">61</a></td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap">Belle Boyd, the Spy</span></td><td class="right"><a href="#Page_67">67</a></td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap">Harrisonburg</span></td><td class="right"><a href="#Page_72">72</a></td></tr> +<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 1em;">Massanutten Caverns</span></td><td class="right"><a href="#Page_73">73</a></td></tr> +<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 1em;">Grand Caverns</span></td><td class="right"><a href="#Page_73">73</a></td></tr> +<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 1em;">Massanetta Springs</span></td><td class="right"><a href="#Page_75">75</a></td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap">Staunton</span></td><td class="right"><a href="#Page_75">75</a></td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap">Waynesboro and Afton</span></td><td class="right"><a href="#Page_79">79</a></td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap">Natural Bridge</span></td><td class="right"><a href="#Page_81">81</a></td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap">Rockbridge</span></td><td class="right"><a href="#Page_84">84</a></td></tr> +<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 1em;">The First Academy in the Valley</span></td><td class="right"><a href="#Page_86">86</a></td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap">Valley Inventions</span></td><td class="right"><a href="#Page_87">87</a></td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap">Washington College</span></td><td class="right"><a href="#Page_88">88</a></td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap">Lexington</span></td><td class="right"><a href="#Page_89">89</a></td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap">The Virginia Military Institute</span></td><td class="right"><a href="#Page_92">92</a></td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap">Culpeper Minute Men</span></td><td class="right"><a href="#Page_94">94</a></td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap">Blind Preacher</span></td><td class="right"><a href="#Page_95">95</a></td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap">Hebron Church</span></td><td class="right"><a href="#Page_96">96</a></td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap">Hoover's Camp on the Rapidan River</span></td><td class="right"><a href="#Page_97">97</a></td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap">Charlottesville and Albemarle County</span></td><td class="right"><a href="#Page_98">98</a></td></tr> +<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 1em;">Jack Jouett's Ride</span></td><td class="right"><a href="#Page_104">104</a></td></tr> +<tr><td><span style="margin-left: 1em;">Lewis and Clark Expedition</span></td><td class="right"><a href="#Page_105">105</a></td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap">Fredericksburg</span></td><td class="right"><a href="#Page_106">106</a></td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap">Kenmore</span>—1752</td><td class="right"><a href="#Page_111">111</a></td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap">The Mary Washington House</span></td><td class="right"><a href="#Page_115">115</a></td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap">Rising Sun Tavern</span></td><td class="right"><a href="#Page_117">117</a></td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap">Roanoke</span></td><td class="right"><a href="#Page_121">121</a></td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap">Draper's Meadow</span></td><td class="right"><a href="#Page_124">124</a></td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap">Washington County</span></td><td class="right"><a href="#Page_127">127</a></td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap">Hungry Mother State Park</span></td><td class="right"><a href="#Page_129">129</a></td></tr> +<tr><td><span class="smcap">White Top</span></td><td class="right"><a href="#Page_129">129</a></td></tr> +</table> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="List_of_Illustrations" id="List_of_Illustrations"></a>List of Illustrations</h2> + +<table id="loi" summary="List of Illustrations"> +<tr><td></td><td><span class="smcap">Page</span></td></tr> +<tr><td>George Washington's Headquarters, Winchester, Virginia</td><td class="right"><a href="#Page_27">27</a></td></tr> +<tr><td>View Along the Skyline Drive in the Shenandoah National Park</td><td class="right"><a href="#Page_38">38</a></td></tr> +<tr><td>"The Cypress Garden", a Scene in Endless Caverns</td><td class="right"><a href="#Page_57">57</a></td></tr> +<tr><td>"The Manse", Woodrow Wilson's Birthplace, Staunton, Virginia</td><td class="right"><a href="#Page_76">76</a></td></tr> +<tr><td>Woodrow Wilson's Bed, Staunton, Virginia</td><td class="right"><a href="#Page_78">78</a></td></tr> +<tr><td>Natural Bridge</td><td class="right"><a href="#Page_81">81</a></td></tr> +<tr><td>Washington and Lee University, Lexington, Virginia</td><td class="right"><a href="#Page_90">90</a></td></tr> +<tr><td>Virginia Military Institute</td><td class="right"><a href="#Page_92">92</a></td></tr> +<tr><td>"Monticello", near Charlottesville, Virginia</td><td class="right"><a href="#Page_99">99</a></td></tr> +<tr><td>Rotunda of University of Virginia</td><td class="right"><a href="#Page_102">102</a></td></tr> +<tr><td>"Kenmore", the Home of Fielding Lewis and Betty Washington<br /> Lewis, Fredericksburg, Virginia</td><td class="right"><a href="#Page_107">107</a></td></tr> +<tr><td>James Monroe's Law Office</td><td class="right"><a href="#Page_109">109</a></td></tr> +<tr><td>"The Mary Washington House", Fredericksburg, Virginia</td><td class="right"><a href="#Page_116">116</a></td></tr> +<tr><td>"Rising Sun Tavern", Fredericksburg, Virginia</td><td class="right"><a href="#Page_118">118</a></td></tr> +<tr><td>Scenic Highway in Southwest Virginia</td><td class="right"><a href="#Page_126">126</a></td></tr> +<tr><td>Hungry Mother State Park</td><td class="right"><a href="#Page_130">130</a></td></tr> +</table> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<p> <span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">[Pg 1]</a></span></p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/deco-009.jpg" width="600" height="124" alt="" title="" /> +</div> + +<h2><a name="Knights_of_The_Golden_Horseshoe" id="Knights_of_The_Golden_Horseshoe"></a>Knights of The Golden Horseshoe</h2> + +<p>Alexander Spotswood was the first Virginia Governor to become +interested in the glowing accounts which the hunters and trappers +brought back from the hill sections of the colony. He determined +to see for himself those distant blue ridges.</p> + +<p>And while historians have not told us who guided him to the +upper or western boundary of what was then Essex County, we +are told that he became enthusiastic over the rich iron ore which +he found in the peninsula formed by the Rapidan River. He +decided to build iron furnaces at a point near the river. Later he +had his agent, Baron de Graffenreid, go to Germany and bring +master mechanics and their families to Virginia.</p> + +<p>The first German colony came in 1714 to Virginia and journeyed +to Germanna, as they called their new home on the bank +of the Rapidan River. They were made up of twelve families and +numbered forty-two people in all, men, women and children.</p> + +<p>The Virginia Council passed an act which provided protection +for the Germans. A fort was built for them, ammunition and +two cannon were sent and an order was given for a road to be +made to the settlement.</p> + +<p>These men and women were brave, loyal and deeply religious. +They belonged to the German Reformed Church, which was a +branch of the Presbyterian family of churches. Here they organized +the first congregation of that faith in America and here they +built their church. They had come from Westphalia, in Germany, +and of course had brought their own customs and manners, which +are not entirely gone even in our modern Virginia. Later, as we +shall see, many of this first colony left Germanna and settled on +Licking Run near Warrenton.</p> + +<p>In 1717 came a second German colony to Germanna. They +too were brave, loyal, and devout; but were different from the +first, being Lutherans and representing twenty families from +Pennsylvania.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2">[Pg 2]</a></span></p> + +<p>Two years later, the third colony of Germans came to Germanna +and from there they settled in Orange and Madison counties.</p> + +<p>If Governor Spotswood earned the title of "Tubal Cain of +America", it was because these Germans were industrious, thrifty +and honest.</p> + +<p>The Governor liked the neighborhood so well that he had a +palace built for his family. There was a terraced garden, which +one may trace in the ruins found there today. A courthouse +was built there, for a new county had been cut from Essex and +was called Spotsylvania, in the Governor's honor. Nearby was a +bubbling fountain spring at which tourists stop today to quench +their thirst. This has been marked by the Colonial Dames and +over it there is a hand-wrought iron standard, giving the legend +of the spring.</p> + +<p>In 1732, Colonel William Byrd of Westover visited Governor +Spotswood at Germanna. He was one of the Commissioners who +ran the boundary line between Virginia and North Carolina. He +held many positions of honor and trust in the colony. His writings +give an intimate picture of Governor Spotswood's settlement:</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><h3><i>Progress to the Mines.</i></h3> + +<p>"Here I arrived about three o'clock, and found only Mrs. Spotswood +at home, who received her old acquaintance with many gracious smiles. +I was carried into a room elegantly set off with pier glasses, the largest +of which came soon to an odd misfortune. Amongst other favorite +animals to cheer this lady's solitude, a brace of deer ran <a name="corr_1"> +</a><ins class="mycorr" title="Original: familarly">familiarly</ins> +about the house, and one of them came to stare at me as a stranger. +But unluckily spying his own figure in the glass, he made a spring +over the tea-table that stood under it, and shattered the glass to pieces, +and falling back upon the tea-table made a terrible fracas among the +china. This exploit was so sudden and accompanied with such a +noise, that it surprised me and perfectly frightened Mrs. Spotswood. +But it was worth all the damage to show the moderation and good +humor with which she bore the disaster. In the evening the noble +Colonel came home from his mines, who saluted me very civilly, and +Mrs. Spotswood's sister, Miss Theky, who had been to meet him <i>en +cavalier</i>, was kind too, as to bid me welcome.</p> + +<p>"We talked over a legion of old stories, supped about nine, and +then prattled with the ladies till it was time to retire. In the meantime, +I observed my old friend to be very uxorious and exceedingly +fond of his children. This was opposite to the maxims he used to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">[Pg 3]</a></span> +preach before he was married, that I could not forbear rubbing up +the memory of them. But he gave a very good natural turn to his +change of sentiments, by alleging that whoever brings a poor gentlewoman +to so solitary a place, from all her friends and acquaintances, +would be very ungrateful not to use her and all that belongs to her +with all possible tenderness.</p> + +<p>"We all kept snug in our apartments till nine, except Miss Theky, +who was the housewife of the family. At that hour we met over a +pot of coffee, which was not quite strong enough to give us the palsy. +After breakfast the Colonel and I left the ladies to their domestic +affairs, and took a turn in the garden which has nothing but three +terraced walks that fall in slopes one below the other.... I let him +know that I had come to be instructed by so great a master in the +mystery of making iron and that he led the way and was the Tubal +Cain of America.... He assured me he was not only the first in +this country, but the first in North America who had erected a +regular furnace, that they ran altogether upon bloomeries in New +England and Pennsylvania, till his example had made them attempt +greater works.... At night we drank prosperity to all the Colonel's +projects in a bowl of rack punch, and then retired to our devotions....</p> + +<p>"I sallied out at the first summons to breakfast, where our conversation +with the ladies, like whipped sillibub, was very pretty, but had +nothing in it. This it seems was Miss Theky's birthday, upon which +I made her my compliments, and wished she might live twice as long +a married woman as she had lived a maid. I did not presume to pry +into the secret of her age, nor was she forward to disclose it.... +She contrived to make this a day of mourning for having nothing +better at present to set her affections upon."</p></div> + +<p>It was really from Germanna that the Great Expedition to the +Mountains began. Of course we know that Williamsburg was the +scene of great excitement when the Governor and some of his +staff gathered for the first start. The party consisted of the +Governor, Fontaine, whose diary gives us accounts of the journey, +Beverley, the historian of Virginia in 1703, Colonel Robertson, +Austin Smith, Dr. Robinson, Messrs. Talor, Brooke and Mason +and Captains Smith and Clouder. Others were gentlemen, servants +and guides. All were delayed when an old trapper told +them that their horses' feet would be ruined if not shod. In the +sandy soil of eastern Virginia it was not necessary to shoe one's +horse, but the rocks, as one travelled inland, would ruin the +horse's feet. The party made the best of the long wait by +drinking the health of the King, toasts to the maids left behind +and in other farewells.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">[Pg 4]</a></span></p> + +<p>The party, after five days, reached Germanna and it is from +Fontaine's journal that we are told of the details of the trip. He +relates the hardships; some, including the writer, had fevers and +chills and drank Jesuits' bark tea. Their beds, made of boughs, +were not soft enough and the men slept badly and were sore +the next day after camping out in the wilderness. They made +about six miles a day. Their food was bear's meat, venison, and +wild game, which they roasted on long wooden forks over glowing +coals. And each time they ate, they also drank the King's +health, not forgetting any of his children in their toasts. Fontaine +writes—</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>"We saw when we were over the mountain the footing of elks +and buffaloes, and their beds. We saw a vine which bore a sort of +wild cucumber and a shrub with fruit like unto a currant. We ate +very good wild grapes.... We crossed a river which we called the +Euphrates. It is very deep, the main course of the water is north, it +is four score yards wide in the narrowest part.... I got some grasshoppers +and fished ... we catched a dish of fish, some perch and a +fish called Chub. The others went ahunting and killed deer and +turkeys.... I engraved my name on a tree by the river's side and the +Governor buried a bottle with a paper inside, on which he writ that +he took possession of this place in the name of King George the First +of England....</p> + +<p>"We had a good dinner, and after it we got the men together +and loaded all their arms and we drank the King's health in champagne +and fired a volley, and the Princess's health in Burgundy and +fired a volley, and all the rest of the Royal family in claret and a +volley. We drank the Governor's health and fired a volley.</p> + +<p>"We had several sorts of liquors, viz Virginian red wine and white +Irish usquebaugh, brandy, shrub, two sorts of rum, champagne, canary, +cherry punch water and cider."</p></div> + +<p>It was thirty-six days after leaving Williamsburg that the party +finally reached the mountain and scaled Swift Run Gap and for +the first time a group of Englishmen looked down into the fertile +valley beyond.</p> + +<p>The Governor was a romantic person, as well as practical, so he +wanted to have something tangible by which all of his party +might remember their thrilling trip. He asked some of his men +what they thought of the idea and someone suggested, no doubt +in fun, that they call themselves the "Knights of the Golden +Horseshoe".<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[Pg 5]</a></span></p> + +<p>Anyway, historians relate that when he returned to Williamsburg, +he promptly wrote a letter to His Majesty and told him of +the wonderful country "beyond the mountains". He also asked +for a grant for the Order of the Knights of the Golden Horseshoe. +In due time a proclamation arrived from England creating The +Order of the Golden Horseshoe and also fifty tiny golden horseshoes +inscribed in Latin "<i>Sic jurat transcerde mantes</i>". There +was a seal and a signature and the title of Knight was conferred +upon the Governor.</p> + +<p>The King also had his own sense of humor and included with +all the rest, the bill for the golden horseshoes! And we are told +the sporting Governor paid for them out of his own pocket +without any regrets.</p> + +<p>Let us start our journey from this historic spot and drive along +the recently built Skyline Drive. As we go we may look down +upon the first settlers' homes, around which are built the thrifty +towns of today.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Adam_Miller_and_His_Neighbors" id="Adam_Miller_and_His_Neighbors"></a>Adam Miller and His Neighbors</h2> + + +<p>Among the earliest settlers in the valley were young Germans, +Adam Mueller and his wife and his sister. Adam, as was his +family, was born in Germany. Like many others, he had left +because of religious persecution, devastating wars and social +unrest. His first home in the new country was in Lancaster, +Pennsylvania.</p> + +<p>Adam Miller (as his name was soon after spelled) journeyed +to Williamsburg, Virginia. There, he told someone, he wanted to +make his home. It was not long after the Knights of the Golden +Horseshoe had returned with their glowing accounts of the land +beyond the mountains. Adam listened with deep interest to the +descriptions of the Valley where a native grass grew on which +buffalo fattened, where game lived all year and where a forest +fringed the fertile valleys. He decided to go with some hunters +and he found the kind of land which he wanted. Before he +returned to Lancaster he had built a rude log cabin. He returned +home by way of Williamsburg, and soon his wife and sister were<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[Pg 6]</a></span> +getting ready to set forth. Many of his German neighbors were +interested also, and historians claim he was the first German to +build near Massanutten Mountain.</p> + +<p>His neighbors were Abram Strickler, Mathias Selser, Phillip +Long, Paul Long, Michael Rinehart, and Jonathan Rood. Some +give the date of this settlement as early as 1726. Adam Miller +took out his naturalization papers a few years later and today, the +visitor may read the quaint document hanging on the walls of +the Miller home, near Elkton, Virginia.</p> + +<p>His log cabin was soon outgrown. He was a good farmer and +his wife and sister helped him. His crops were larger each year. +Besides, Adam was a business man. He secured a large land grant +and he soon was selling off farms to other Germans who came +from Pennsylvania and from Germany.</p> + +<p>The Millers built a larger home and they bought some good +sturdy furniture to replace the crude tables and chairs which were +home-made. They took pleasure in getting the home all ready +before they moved into it. They had even spread the beds with +the new hand-woven coverlets which his wife and sister had made +during the long winter nights. The next night they would sleep +in their new home. But during the night, a fire broke out—no +one ever knew its origin—and everything was destroyed before +the family woke up!</p> + +<p>The Millers were undaunted, so they built again. We are +told what good neighbors there were in those days. The men +took their own axes and cut down the trees. They dressed the +lumber, sawed the timbers by careful measurements, laid foundations, +and built chimneys. It did not take so long to build +a house. The visitor today will see a big white house on the +road between Luray and Elkton, almost beneath the shadow +of old Massanutten Mountain. He will see the marker which +tells him that this house was built by the Miller family. Inside, +the visitor will see priceless early American furniture. He will +see rosewood and later Empire furniture, too, as other generations +added to their heritage. But when one goes into the log +cabin kitchen he will stand in reverence before a collection of +early Dutch tables, chairs, platters, plates of Delft and pewter, +spoons of the same ware. There is a huge corner cupboard<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[Pg 7]</a></span> +which everyone would like to have for his own. This house no +longer has a direct descendant of Adam and his good wife to +occupy it, for the last one of his line recently died.</p> + +<p>Adam Miller was not only a good neighbor to his German +friends but we are told they did not have much trouble with the +Indians during the first years he lived in the Valley. However, he +was a brave fighter during the Indian Wars and his record is +given in <i>Henning's Statutes</i>. He lived through most of the Revolutionary +War and no doubt longed to fight in behalf of the +country which had given him the opportunity to develop it.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>"On Sunday evening, Dec. 3rd, 1749 a young Franciscan went with +us (<i>Diary of Leonard Schell, a Moravian Missionary</i>) to show us the +way to Mathias Schawb, who immediately on my offer to preach for +them, sent messengers to announce my sermon. In a short time a +considerable number of people assembled to whom I preached. After +the sermon I baptised a child of Holland's. We stayed overnight +with Mathias Schawb. His wife told us we were always welcome and +we must come to them whenever we came into that district.</p> + +<p>"Toward evening a man from another Dutch settlement, Adam +Miller passed. I told him that I would like to come to his house and +preach there. He asked if I were sent by God and I answered yes. +He said if I were sent by God I should be welcome, but he said there +are at present so many kinds of people that often one does not know +where they come from. I requested him to notify his neighbors that +I would preach which he did.</p> + +<p>"On Dec. 4th we left Schawb's house commending the whole family +to God. We travelled through the rain across the South Shenandoah +to Adam Miller's house who received us with much love. We stayed +over night.</p> + +<p>"On Dec. 5th I preached at Adam Miller's house on 'Whosoever +thirsteth let him come to the water and drink.' A number of thirsty +souls were present. Especially Adam Miller took in every word and +after the sermon declared himself well pleased. In the afternoon we +travelled a short distance, staying overnight with a Swiss."</p></div> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Joist_Hite_the_Pioneer" id="Joist_Hite_the_Pioneer"></a>Joist Hite, the Pioneer</h2> + + +<p>When Joist Hite arrived in Virginia he and his family were +required to settle on the land bought from the VanMeters. His +purchase was made in June 1731. In October of the same year, he +and Robert McKay obtained a grant from the Colonial Govern<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[Pg 8]</a></span>ment +to have 100,000 acres of land surveyed on the west side of +the mountain, with the agreement to bring in one hundred +settlers within two years. During that year, Hite moved in and +settled on that land, but he got an extension of time for bringing +in other settlers. By Christmas of 1735 Hite had brought in fifty-four +families.</p> + +<p>All this land was in the County of Spotsylvania and Hite found +that he and his brothers were too far away from the courts so he +became interested in getting a new county organized in 1734. +This was named Orange, in honor of the Duke of Orange. Later +on, having acquired more land, he found himself again too far +removed from a court house. And again he applied for a new +county. In fact he needed two counties for all his lands and ever-increasing +settlers. In 1738 Orange County was divided into +three counties, namely: Orange, Frederick, and Augusta to the +west of the mountain. With Joist Hite and his wife Anna Maria +came their daughters, Mary, her husband George Bowman, Elizabeth +and her husband Paul Froman, Magadelena and her husband +Jacob Chrisman, and their sons John, Jacob, Isaac, Abraham and +Joseph. Hite, we are told, allowed his sons-in-law to choose +their own homesteads.</p> + +<p>His wife, Anna Maria, died in 1738 at Long Meadows and +soon he married again. We read the following quaint marriage +contracts between him and his second wife:</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>"In the Name of Jesus</p> + +<p>"Whereas, we, two persons, I, Joist Hite and Maria Magadelena, +Relict and Widow of Christian Nuschanger, according to God's holy +ordinance and the knowledge and consent of our Friends and Children +and Relations are going to enter into the holy state of Matrimony. +We have made this Nuptial part one with the others. First promise +to the aforesaid Maria Magadalena all the Christian Love and Faithfulness. +Secondly, as neither of us are a moment secure from death +so I promise her Home or Widow Seat so long as she lives and the +Heir to whom the said House shall fall shall provide the necessary +Diet and Cloathes and if that do not please but that she rather +desire to have her commendations in any other place, so shall the +foresaid Heir to the House yearly pay her Six Pounds ready money +and this is my well considered desire.</p> + +<p> <span class="rpos">"<span class="smcap">Joist Hite.</span>"</span></p> +</div> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[Pg 9]</a></span></p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>"And Likewise wife, I Maria Magadalena promise the aforesaid Joist +Hite. First of all, Love and Obedience. Secondly, I am designed to +bring with me to him some cattle, money, household goods which in +agreement with attested witnesses shall be Described and should I die +before the said Hite so shall the said Hite have the half thereof and +the other half shall be delivered back again to my heirs and this is +also my well considered desire. Thirdly and Lastly, whoever of the +aforesaid persons shall die first the half of the portion the Woman +brings with her shall go back to her heirs."</p></div> + +<p>The following goods were brought by the said Mary Magadelena +to Joist Hite:</p> + +<div class="blockquot2"><p style="text-indent: -1.25em;">"1 In ready money, twenty two pounds seventeen Shillings and +four pence.</p> + +<p>2 Two mares one colt value of fourteen pounds.</p> + +<p>3 Two drawing steers value three pounds, ten shillings.</p> + +<p>4 Two coarse beds Cloathes in all three pounds, Sixteen Shillings +and six pence. And said money is adjudged to be in Virginia +Currency the 16th day of November, 1741, also one horse mare, +six pounds."</p></div> + +<p>Another neighbor pioneering in the Valley was Jacob Stover +who secured land grants. History records that he resorted to +unusual methods in obtaining them. Upon application, it was +necessary to convince the authorities that the applicant could +furnish a sufficient number of families to settle the land requested. +Stover did not have the required number. He took himself to +England to petition the King and in order to be convincing he +gave names to every living thing he possessed—dogs, sheep, +horses, cows and pigs! After his successful trip which resulted in +receiving the land grant, he commenced selling small acreages +to the new-comers. He enriched himself materially, but incurred +the wrath of his associates.</p> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="German_Neighbors" id="German_Neighbors"></a>German Neighbors</h2> + +<h3><span class="smcap">Quakers</span></h3> + + +<p>Long ago, a shrewd trader from New York, John VanMeter, +came into the Valley. He made friends with the Delawares and +often went with them on their hunting trips. Once he even +fought on their side against their enemies, the Catawbas. While +on this visit South, he saw for the first time the fertile native<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[Pg 10]</a></span> +grass, which grew "five or six feet high", in the Valley. When +he returned to New York he told his sons about the rich country, +far to the South, and advised them to secure some of it. One of +them, Isaac, took his father's advice and came to Virginia in +1736-7 and with a tomahawk cut certain trees, thus making his +original claim. This was called the "Tomakawk Right".</p> + +<p>Isaac and his brother John secured a warrant from Governor +Gooch for forty thousand acres of land. Later on they sold or +transferred part of their grant to Joist Hite who was later called +the "Old Baron". The latter was one of the hardiest pioneers +and in 1734 was appointed by the Virginia Council to act as +magistrate. This gave him authority to settle disputes, and to +uphold the laws of Virginia as well as to punish all offenders.</p> + +<p>Hite soon built a stone house on Opequon Creek and his sons and +daughters grew to be splendid men and women. His sons-in-law, +George Bowman, Jacob Chrisman and Paul Froman and their +families had come with him from Pennsylvania. Robert McKay, +Robert Green, William Duff, Peter Stevens and several other +families helped each other select land, build homes and a fort.</p> + +<p>We are told that the Indians had heard of the kindly relations +which existed between the Indians and William Penn's colonists. +We know he paid the Indians for their lands, and records show +that many of the Germans, especially the Quakers, who settled on +Apple Pie Ridge also bought lands from the Indians. These +settlers were never disturbed by the Indians. However, when it +came to the lands which we now call the Great Valley of Virginia, +the Indians were agreed among themselves that no one tribe was +to possess any of it. The lands were so fertile and so much game +feasted there, that all should be at peace when in the Valley.</p> + +<p>So when the first Quakers came we find these names recorded: +the Neills, Walkers, Bransons, McKays, Hackneys, Beesoms, +Luptons, Barretts, Dillons and Fawcetts.</p> + +<p>Another Quaker, Ross, obtained a warrant for surveying lands +and his lines were run along the Opequon, north of Winchester, +and up to Apple Pie Ridge. Soon many other Quakers from +Pennsylvania were moving into the Valley to settle on Ross's +surveys. By 1738 these deeply religious people had built homes +and were holding monthly meetings to worship God. They had<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[Pg 11]</a></span> +tiny settlements up and down the Valley. They cultivated their +farms, took little interest in politics, cared very little for worldly +intercourse and made excellent neighbors. Their manners and +dress were plain, their furniture only what was necessary, their +homes were crude, but their barns were large and their cattle were +well protected.</p> + +<p>They refused to pay taxes during the Revolutionary War or to +bear arms. Then their neighbors began to ridicule them, calling +them cowards, and were no longer friendly. Officers came and +seized their crops or property and sold them to raise funds with +which to carry on the War against England. The Legislature +enacted a law whereby a Quaker either had to fight or pay a +substitute to fight for him. Their personal property was put +under the hammer and soon they were reduced to poverty. +One incident will give us a picture of those far-off days. James +Gotharp lived with his neighbors on Apple Pie Ridge. One day +during the Revolutionary War officers came, demanding that he +should march away with them to join the militia; he refused. +The men forced him to come along and later he was made a +guard. He was placed beside a baggage wagon and told to let +no man go into the wagon who did not have a written order from +the commanding officer. Along came an officer who started to +climb into the vehicle. James called to him and demanded to see +his order of authority. The officer cursed him and stepped up to +climb in. James caught him by his legs and pulled his feet +off the step. This caused the officer to fall, striking his face +against the wagon, bruising his nose and mouth severely.</p> + +<p>The dress of the Quakers is still picturesque and many are to +be seen in certain sections of the Valley. They wear a broad +brimmed hat, a long frock coat, generally black. The women +wear full skirts, down to their ankles, black hose, plain black +shoes, with round toes. Their bodices, usually black or gray in +color, are severely cut, with long plain sleeves, with a high neck, +relieved by a white collar. They usually wear a small cap, made +of the same material as their dress.</p> + + +<h3><span class="smcap">Dunkards</span></h3> + +<p>Lending an air of uniqueness yet to the Valley towns is that +religious sect called Dunkards. One sees the women of that<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[Pg 12]</a></span> +denomination, with their little black bonnets, on almost any +street in any town along the Lee Highway.</p> + +<p>At one time the sect was called Tunkers. They are an offshoot +of the Seventh-Day Baptists and had their beginnings in the +Valley a little after 1732.</p> + +<p>When Dr. Thomas Walker passed through the section on his +way westward he noted in his journal on March 17th, 1750, "The +Dunkards are an odd set of people, who make it a matter of +religion not to Shave their Beards, ly on Beds, or eat Flesh though +at present, in the last, they transgress, being constrained to it, as +they say, by the want of a sufficiency of Grain and Roots, they +having not long been seated here. I doubt the plenty and deliciousness +of the Venison and Turkeys has contributed not a little +to this. The unmarried have no private Property, but live on a +common Stock. They don't baptize either Young or Old, they +keep their Sabbath on Saturday, and hold that all men shall be +happy hereafter, but first must pass through punishment according +to their Sins. They are very hospitable."</p> + +<p>The Dunkards built a part of their faith around their disapproval +of violence, even for self-defense, and their submission +to fraud or wrongdoing rather than resorting to court trials.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="The_Scotch-Irish_in_the_Valley" id="The_Scotch-Irish_in_the_Valley"></a>The Scotch-Irish in the Valley</h2> + + +<p>Many reasons caused the people of Europe to emigrate during +the eighteenth century. In Ireland and Scotland an unrest was +spreading as seen in the story of John Lewis.</p> + +<p>He was born in Ireland and was a thrifty gentleman. He fell +in love with and married Margaret Lynn, daughter of the laird of +Loch Lynn, a descendant of a powerful Scotch clan. They were +very happy with their three little sons and soon John Lewis rented +more lands from a landlord. These lands brought him more and +more wealth and the landlord grew jealous. He told Lewis that +he would not let him continue to cultivate them, although the +lease was not expired.</p> + +<p>One day the landlord came to the Lewis home. He brought +many of his hirelings and demanded that Lewis vacate the house +at once. At the time, Lewis' brother was ill and could not<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[Pg 13]</a></span> +help him defend his home. Margaret, his wife, and a few +servants quickly barred the doors and windows and defied the +landlord to enter.</p> + +<p>The infuriated man began to fire into the house and one shot +killed John Lewis' brother and one wounded Margaret. John +could not stand such an outrage any longer, so he rushed out and +in the fight which followed, he killed the landlord.</p> + +<p>His family and neighbors, knowing the influential Irish would +not give him a fair trial, urged him to flee the country. At last +he consented to go, but before he did, he carefully wrote down +all the details of the trouble and sent it to the proper authorities. +Then he hastily left the country and soon was on his way to +Virginia. Lewis went to Williamsburg after landing in Virginia. +There he met a weaver, Salling, who told him some of the +wildest stories he had ever heard.</p> + +<p>The weaver had known a peddler, named Marlin, who took his +pack far into the land beyond the mountains and traded his pewter +ware, beads, compasses and other small articles to the Indians +for furs. He told Salling such marvelous stories of the Indians +and country that the weaver asked to let him go on one of his +trips with him. This he did, and the weaver had plenty of +adventures before he finally got back to Williamsburg.</p> + +<p>The two men reached the Valley and were far beyond the +Blue Ridge Mountains when the Cherokee Indians, thinking they +were spies, took them prisoners. Marlin had the good fortune +to get away, but Salling was carried farther across another mountain +range into what is now Kentucky, where the Indians went to +hunt buffalo. Here the Cherokees were attacked by their enemies +from Illinois. Salling was again captured and carried off to the +southwest. He was adopted by an old Indian squaw as her son +and for some time he lived with her. At last a Spaniard bought +him and took him as an interpreter to Canada. There he met +the French Governor who sent him to New York and after six +years, he at last reached Williamsburg.</p> + +<p>You would think Salling after this would have settled down +and become a weaver again. But life was too tame. When +Lewis asked him about the lands in the Valley, Salling decided +to take him and the Englishman, John Mackay, who also wanted<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[Pg 14]</a></span> +to go. Lewis found the country all that Salling had promised +him and he decided to settle on a creek which bears his name +today.</p> + +<p>He obtained authority to 100,000 acres of land in and near +the ground on which he built his fort-like house. Before very +long, many of his friends and neighbors from Ireland were on +their way to Virginia to join him. Many of them settled in +Western Augusta near Fort Lewis. One can imagine how happy +it made John Lewis to be told that the authorities, upon investigation, +had granted him a pardon and absolved him from all +blame in the killing of his landlord before he left Ireland. These +Scotch-Irish, like their German neighbors, did not have very +much trouble from the Indians for several years.</p> + +<p>Thomas, a son of John Lewis, studied and went to represent +his county in the House of Burgesses. He was a man of sound +judgment and voted for Patrick Henry's celebrated resolutions.</p> + +<p>Andrew, another son, was a soldier, and made his home in +Botetourt County. During the Indian Wars, he was made a +General but not until he had proved his worth in many a battle. +He served with George Washington on July 4th, 1754 when Fort +Necessity was taken, and he was present when the articles of the +treaty were agreed upon. When Washington was made Commander-in-Chief, +it is said he asked Lewis to accept the commission +of brigadier-general. In 1776 he commanded the Virginians +when Governor Dunnmore was driven from Gwynn's +Island and we are told he gave the order for attacking the enemy +and he himself lighted the match to the eighteen-pounder.</p> + +<p>General Lewis resigned in 1780 and on his way home was +taken ill with fever. He died near Bedford, about forty miles +from home.</p> + +<p>We cannot give all the accounts of William, Andrew and +Charles, the other sons, but if one would read interesting captures +and escapes from Indians, he will find that of Charles most +exciting.</p> + +<p>The sons of John and Margaret Lynn Lewis helped to develop +the Valley of Virginia and their name is an honored one wherever +it is found.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[Pg 15]</a></span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Indians" id="Indians"></a>Indians</h2> + + +<p>Early historians give us some accounts of the various Indians +in Virginia. Opechancanough, a warrior chief from the East, went +to war with Sherando, a member of the Iroquois tribe. Opechancanough +in crossing the mountains on a foraging expedition was +once attacked by Sherando who felt his tribe should not have to +share its hunting grounds with anyone else and resented the +invasion. A fierce battle took place, with no one victor.</p> + +<p>Opechancanough liked the country, so when he returned to his +town below Williamsburg on the Chickahominy, he left his son +and a few warriors to watch the hunting grounds which he had +found so rich in game. This son, Shee-wa-a-nee, with his band +soon had to fight the main body of the Iroquois and Sherando +drove the Chief east of the mountains.</p> + +<p>Opechancanough left the lowlands as soon as the news was +brought to him by runners. He gathered his warriors and set off +with a large force. He fell upon Sherando and in the fierce battles +which followed, he slowly drove him from his grounds, and he +never returned from his home near the Great Lakes.</p> + +<p>Sheewa-a-nee was left again in charge of the Hunting Grounds +and from that day the Shawnees held the lovely Valley until the +coming of the white settlers.</p> + +<p>The settlers kept many of the Indian names for both mountains +and streams. Opechancanough river was so called for the Great +Chief. Legend and history tell us that in his later years he +became blind and could no longer hunt in the lovely Shenandoah +Valley.</p> + +<p>There were many tribes of Indians in the country and though +they did not all speak the same language, they did have a common +tongue and could understand each other.</p> + +<p>After 1710 all the lands west of the Blue Ridge Mountains +were spoken of as Indian Country. The different tribes evidently +had understanding among themselves about certain boundary +lines as individual tribes had certain domains. When one violated +these rights, there was a war in which whole tribes sometimes +would be completely wiped out.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[Pg 16]</a></span></p> + +<p>The Shawnees, the most powerful and warlike of all, claimed +all the hunting grounds west of the Blue Ridge and as far west +across the Alleghany as the Mississippi. They had three large +towns in the Valley. One was near where Winchester stands +today, one on the North River in Shenandoah County, and one +on the South Branch, near where Moorefield is situated. They +did allow other tribes to visit them in the Valley on condition +they pay them tribute in skins or loot.</p> + +<p>The next tribe was the Tuscaroras, and they spent most of +their time in what is now West Virginia.</p> + +<p>Another tribe was an offshoot from the Sherandos and were +called Senedos. They were completely wiped out by the fierce +tribe of Cherokees from the South, in 1732.</p> + +<p>The Catawbas were from South Carolina and had their towns +along the river which still bears that name.</p> + +<p>The Delawares came from Pennsylvania and their villages were +along the Susquehanna River. The Susquenoughs were a large +and friendly tribe on the Chesapeake Bay and they were good to +the white settlers until their enemies, the Cenela tribes, drove +them away from Tidewater Virginia. Then they went to the +upper Potomac River. The Cenelas soon followed them to the +same region. Another tribe, the Piscataway, lived along the +headwaters of the Chesapeake Bay.</p> + +<p>The Cherokees had their villages on the Tennessee River down +in the Carolinas and Georgia and Alabama. This tribe was made +up of the nations of the South, the Muscogluges, the Seminoles, +Chickasaws, Choctaws and Creeks. At certain times, all these +Indians made forages into the Valley. Besides these there were +those from New York—the Senecas, Mohawks, Oneidas, Onondagas +and Cayugas. These were called the Five Nations and +they too claimed the right to hunt in the Valley. These Indians +believed, we are told, that the Great Spirit had given this Valley +to all Indians and it is not surprising that they resented the +coming of the white men who soon began to build homes, barns +and fences and who claimed the right to shoot the Indians if they +came on their property.</p> + +<p>Then the French about this time began to build forts along the +St. Lawrence River, the Great Lakes and on down the Mississippi +River to the Gulf of Mexico. The French made every effort to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[Pg 17]</a></span> +make friends with the Indians and told them the British had no +right to take their lands. The French said they would protect +their rights if the Indians would let them. Consequently, they +became allies of the French and they began to move their villages +and towns toward the French lines. They continued to keep a +part of their homes and to send back bands of hunters to look +after the hunting grounds beyond the mountains.</p> + +<p>If the Indians had not been friendly to those pioneers who +dared to build homes in the Valley, there would not have been +any civilization there until a much later date. But as we have +seen, many of them came from Pennsylvania where William Penn +and his colonists had dealt so fairly with the Indians. Naturally +then, the Indians thought all the settlers would be like those. +Besides, there were so few of them, they did not at first realize +that their hunting grounds were being taken from them. Consequently, +the Delawares and Catawbas in hunting did no harm, +though they were bitter enemies and the settlers often saw them +with prisoners from the other tribes.</p> + +<p>There were Indian villages on the Potomac and on both +branches of the Shenandoah. Numerous Indian mounds and +graves are still to be seen in certain sections of the Valley. Many +of these have been opened and skeletons found to be in a wonderful +state of preservation; utensils, pipes, axes, tomahawks, pots +and hominy pestles have been found. Their pots and utensils +were made of a mixture of clay and hard shells, very crude as to +workmanship but very strong.</p> + +<p>After twenty or more years of comparative peace, the Indians +suddenly left the Valley. In 1753 messengers came from the +Western Indians into the Valley and invited them to cross the +Alleghany mountains. Historians claim this was done through +the influence of the French and later consequences seem to +establish the point.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[Pg 18]</a></span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Indian_Tales" id="Indian_Tales"></a>Indian Tales</h2> + + +<p>In the year 1774 the Indians began to give serious trouble to +the settlers on New River. One day several children, those of +the Lybrooks' and the Snydow's, were playing down by the river. +They heard a dog barking and upon looking up, saw some Indians +approaching. One of the boys ran along the edge of the stream +trying to make his escape and warn the family. But one of the +Indians ran ahead and cut off that means of escape. He also fired +at two boys who were farther out in the stream, but fortunately +missed them.</p> + +<p>While the Indian was aiming at the boys, one of them ran up a +rough path which had been made by the animals as they went back +and forth to drink. The boy scrambled up this path and darted by +the Indian who tried his best to catch him. The Indian gave +pursuit and the boy ran until he came to a wide gulley about ten +feet wide. This the boy easily jumped, but the Indian hesitated +and threw a buffalo tug which struck his head and hurt his back. +But he never stopped running until he reached his father's home +and slipped into the fort where he told the parents of the attack.</p> + +<p>In the meantime, five of the children who were playing in the +river climbed into the canoe. The Indians waded out, then +swimming to the side of it, pulled out the children, killed them, +and took their scalps.</p> + +<p>An older girl, about thirteen years old, turned over the canoe +and swam downstream, then jumped to the opposite bank. One +of the Indians pursued her and she screamed loudly for help. +A faithful guard dog came to her rescue and as the Indian +reached out to grab her, the dog jumped at the Indian, tearing +the flesh in his thigh, and threw him down. This gave the girl +time to make her escape.</p> + +<p>The Indian struck the dog a blow with his club which finally +made him let up on the man. The faithful dog went to the +canoe and stood guard over the five scalped children until their +people came to take them away for burial. Then the dog refused +to leave the spot and began to howl in a most pitiful way. He +ran into the woods and back again, keeping up his cries until one<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[Pg 19]</a></span> +of the men followed him to see what was troubling him. There +near a tree, he found a little boy of six years, bleeding to death +from a scalp wound.</p> + +<p>In 1760 two Indians were seen hiding around Mill Creek. +Mr. Painter, his brother John and William Moore went in +search of them. After some time they came to a newly fallen +pine tree which had a very bushy top.</p> + +<p>"We had better be careful," Mathias Painter said as they +neared the fallen tree. "There may be Indians hidden in it." +As he spoke, an Indian fired from the tree. His bullet grazed +John's temple not injuring him. Then the other two white men +fired at the Indians, striking one of them who fell to the ground. +They supposed him to be dead, so they pursued the one who had +fled, leaving his gun and loot behind him.</p> + +<p>But the Indian was strong and he outran the two men. +Imagine their surprise when they returned, and found the Indian +gone whom they had supposed dead, taking the guns and pack +of skins with him. The white men picked up his trail and followed +him. He hid himself in a sink-hole and when the men +came near he opened fire on them. He poured out his powder on +the dry grass in front of him so he could reload his gun more +quickly. He fired at least thirty times before the two men finally +were able to kill him.</p> + +<p>The Indian who had gotten away met a young woman of the +neighborhood who was riding horseback. He tore her from the +horse and forced her to go with him. This happened near where +New Market stands today. They travelled about twenty miles or +more. The Indian became impatient because she complained of +being so tired. People near Keesleton heard cries in the night. +The next day when they went to see who had made them, they +found a pine knot on which blood was still fresh. Nearby, they +found the poor girl, already dead from the cruel blows and from +loss of blood.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[Pg 20]</a></span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="The_Moore_Massacre" id="The_Moore_Massacre"></a>The Moore Massacre</h2> + + +<p>One of the most beautiful sections in Southwestern Virginia is +called Ab's Valley, in Tazewell County. It was first settled by +Captain James Moore, one of the Scotch-Irish Presbyterians, who +had moved from Rockingham County in 1775. There was no +river running through the ten miles of fertile grounds, but several +springs watered the tall grass which afforded fine grazing for +stock and game. Captain Moore's brother-in-law, Mr. Robert +Poage, came to live nearby, but they were the only settlers in +that neighborhood. Their nearest neighbors and a fort were over +twelve miles away.</p> + +<p>In the Spring of 1782 the Indians came to Mr. Poage's house +and burst through the heavy door without any warning. They +did not expect to find any men there and when they saw there +were three they did not attempt to enter the house. The next +morning, a man named Richardson, who worked on the place, +went out to look at some deer skins which he had soaking in a +nearby pond. The Indians crept up and shot him, taking his scalp.</p> + +<p>Two years passed before the Indians attacked the Moore family. +James, a young boy of fourteen, was sent by Captain Moore to +get some horses from a field about two miles from his home. +He wanted James to go to the mill and for this he needed an +extra horse.</p> + +<p>James had gone only a short distance when three Indians +sprang from behind a log and caught hold of the boy. He +screamed and the Indian laid his hand over his mouth and in +the Indian language told him to keep still.</p> + +<p>Black Wolf was the name of the middle-aged Indian. His son +was about eighteen years old. The other Indian seemed to be one +of Black Wolf's men. James said he was not so very much +frightened after he was told he belonged to Black Wolf, though +he was one of the sternest looking men he had ever seen. Black +Wolf gave James some salt and told him to catch some of his +father's horses for him. James said he would, meaning he would +catch two, and try to make his escape on one of them. But every +time he caught a horse the Indians ran up and frightened it so +it would get away. At last the Indians gathered up their blankets<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[Pg 21]</a></span> +and pots where they were hidden in the grass and motioned for +James to fall in line. The young Indian went first, then the +Indian man, then James, followed by Black Wolf.</p> + +<p>James tried to break off pieces of bushes so his father could +tell which way he had gone. Black Wolf tapped his shoulder and +shook his head. Then he tried to leave signs by digging his toes +down into the soft earth. Again Black Wolf shook his head.</p> + +<p>After they had gone a long way, about sundown Black Wolf +gave a long war-whoop. He did the same the next morning at +sunrise. The Indians did this to show they had a prisoner. They +gave one cry for each prisoner taken. If they had taken scalps, +the cry would have been a different kind.</p> + +<p>Before they lay down in the thicket that night, Black Wolf +searched James to see if he carried a knife. Then he took out a +halter and tied it fast to James' neck and wrapped the other end +around his hand.</p> + +<p>The next morning Black Wolf left James with the other two +Indians and went off to get a Dutch oven which he had taken on +one of his other expeditions. He gave this to James to carry. +He fastened it to James' back, but after it rubbed a sore place, +James threw it down and refused to carry it further. Black Wolf +then took off the huge bundle which he carried and told James to +take it. But he could not even lift it from the ground. The +Indian then pointed to the Dutch oven, and he found it was not +so bad to carry after he padded it with leaves.</p> + +<p>He found out how long the Indians could go without much +food. For three whole days they had only water in which poplar +bark had been steeped. On the fourth day they shot a buffalo. +They took a small bit of the meat and made a clear broth which +they drank but Black Wolf did not let them eat any of the meat +until the next day, this being their custom after fasting.</p> + +<p>James said he travelled the whole way barefooted. Of course +his feet became sore from bruises. He saw many rattlesnakes, +but he was not allowed to kill them as the Indians considered +them to be their friends.</p> + +<p>James knew that the Shawnees, of whom Black Wolf was a member, +lived far to the West. He believed they must be nearing their +town after he had travelled for twenty days. He told of how they<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[Pg 22]</a></span> +made a raft of logs on which they crossed the Ohio and other +streams. He learned how to twine the long grapevines around the +logs to make the raft. He saw how the Indians made crude pictures +in the banks of the streams to let other Indians know they had a +prisoner. Black Wolf stopped and drew three Indians and a boy.</p> + +<p>When the Indians came near their town they painted themselves +black. They left him white as an omen of safety. Black +Wolf traded James to his half-sister for a horse. James later found +out why he was not taken into the town. It was a time of +peace and if they had seen the new prisoner, they might have +made him run the gauntlet. The old squaw was kind to him +and sometimes left him alone in the wigwam for days at a time. +He said he prayed to God to keep him safe. We cannot give all +his experiences with the Indians, but he was finally sold to a +French trader from Detroit. His name was Baptist Ariome and +he liked James, for he looked like his own son. He gave the old +squaw fifty dollars' worth of silver brooches, beads, and other +trinkets in Indian money.</p> + +<p>James met a man who was a trader from Kentucky, a Mr. +Sherlock. This man promised to write to James' father and +tell him of his capture, of his being sold and of his being taken +to Detroit. After some time, as we shall see, he did get back to +Virginia.</p> + +<p>But in the meantime, many other things were happening to the +Moore family. In July 1786, several of the hundred head of +horses which belonged to Captain Moore came in to the salt block +to get salt. Captain Moore went out to see them, about two hundred +yards from the house. Nearby were two of his children, +William and Rebecca, who were coming from the spring; not far +away was another child, Alexander. All at once a stream of bullets +began to fly. Thirty Indians had hidden themselves in the tall +grass which almost surrounded the Moore home. William and +Rebecca were killed instantly. Captain Moore ran to the fence +which separated the lot from the house and as he climbed over, he +was struck by several bullets. The Indians then ran up and +scalped him.</p> + +<p>Two men who lived with the Moores were not far away in a +field, reaping wheat. When they heard the shooting they ran<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[Pg 23]</a></span> +toward the house but when they saw it was surrounded by +Indians they made their escape and went off to give the alarm +to other settlers who were six miles away.</p> + +<p>Mrs. Moore and Martha Evans, the girl in the house with her, +quickly barred the door when they saw the tragedy. They took +down the rifles which had been fired the night before and gave +them to an old Englishman, John Simpson, who was ill, to load +for them. But the old man could not help them, for he had been +struck by a bullet as he lay sick.</p> + +<p>Martha Evans soon decided to hide under a loose board in the +floor of the cabin. Polly Moore, a little girl of eight, was holding +her baby sister who was screaming with fear. Martha told Polly +to get under the board too, but she decided to stay with the baby.</p> + +<p>Then the Indians burst down the door and lunged in. They +took Mrs. Moore prisoner and four children, John, Polly, Jane, +and Peggy. They took everything they fancied, then set the house +on fire.</p> + +<p>Poor Mrs. Moore saw the Indians kill her son because he +was sick and could not keep up with them. They killed the +baby because it cried so pitiously. They had to have their hands +tied, as had James, and they, too, fasted.</p> + +<p>When at last they reached the Indian town, Mrs. Moore and +Jane were killed by torture and death at the stake. Polly was +treated more kindly and was finally sold to a man near Lake Erie, +for a half gallon of rum!</p> + +<p>Now fate seems to have taken a hand in bringing Polly and +her brother James together in that far-away country. While on a +hunting expedition James heard about the destruction of his +family. He was told that his sister Polly had been bought by a +Mr. Stogwell, a man of bad character. It was in the Winter, so +James waited until Spring when Mr. Stogwell moved into the +same section of the country where he was living.</p> + +<p>When James went to see them he found Polly very miserable. +Her clothing was only rags and she had almost lost hope of +ever seeing any of her people again. James found that Mr. +Stogwell was unkind, too, so he went with Simon Girty to +Colonel McKee, Superintendent of Indians, to get her release. +He had Mr. Stogwell brought to trial, but they did not have<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[Pg 24]</a></span> +enough evidence and Polly could not leave him. However, after +much trouble, James was able to get passage for Polly and +himself on a trading boat and came down the Great Lakes. They +landed in a Moravian town where they met some friends owning +horses. They journeyed to Pittsburgh and stayed until Spring. +Then they set off for Virginia, sad, of course, knowing how +few there would be to welcome them. Yet they were delighted +to find their brother Joseph was still safe. He had been visiting +his grandfather in Rockbridge County at the time of the massacre.</p> + +<p>Polly met and married the <a name="corr_2"></a><ins class="mycorr" title="Original: Reverened">Reverend</ins> Samuel Brown, a Presbyterian +preacher. They had seven sons, and five of them were +ministers.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Washingtons_Boyhood_Friend" id="Washingtons_Boyhood_Friend"></a>Washington's Boyhood Friend—Lord Fairfax</h2> + + +<p>"The Proprietor of the Northern Neck," Lord Fairfax, lived at +"Greenway Court" after first having a country seat at Belvoir near +the Potomac River in what is now Fairfax County.</p> + +<p>An interesting character this Fairfax must have been. Born +with a title in England, he moved in intellectual circles there, was +acquainted with men of letters such as Addison and actually +contributed some articles to the <i>Spectator</i>. Either through boredom +or a disappointment in not winning the lady of his choice +he decided to leave his country and come to Virginia.</p> + +<p>It may be of passing interest to learn that Lord Fairfax, although +proprietor of thousands upon thousands of acres, lived in +a comparatively simple way. His home was an unpretentious +story and a half frame building, situated in a large grove of trees, +and surrounded by smaller homes for servants and tenants. +"Greenway Court," the name given the home, very probably +lacked more indications of elegance and grace because of Fairfax's +bachelor state.</p> + +<p>A mile from the house he had erected a white-oak post which +served as guide for those in search of his dwelling. At White +Post, the village which derived its name from the signpost, one<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[Pg 25]</a></span> +may see a replica of the original, located on the site of the first +one placed there in 1760 by the proprietor.</p> + +<p>His domain, called the "Northern Neck of Virginia," comprised +the present counties of Lancaster, Northumberland, Richmond, +Westmoreland, Stafford, King George, Prince William, Fairfax, +Loudon, Fauquier, Culpeper, Clarke, Madison and Page in Virginia +and numerous counties in West Virginia.</p> + +<p>Lord Fairfax was exceptionally interested in fox hunting and +reserved great tracts for this sport. Sometimes he spent weeks +at a time hunting. He made a rule that whoever caught the fox +should cut off its tail and hold it aloft and should have no part +of the expense of the subsequent frolic. As soon as a fox was +started all the young men would gallop off at a great rate, while +Fairfax waited behind with a servant familiar with the hills and +streams and who had a good ear; following the servant's directions +he frequently stuck the fox's tail in his hat and rejoined the +hunters!</p> + +<p>Familiar to everyone is the fact that Lord Fairfax engaged +Washington, a boy of about sixteen, to survey his vast lands +beyond the Blue Ridge. Through this undertaking the latter +gained a thorough knowledge of frontier life and a reputation +for dependability and self-confidence. These attributes were to +be needed later for participation in the French and Indian War. +A warm and lasting friendship grew up between the proprietor +and Washington.</p> + +<p>Being British by birth and sympathy the course of the Revolution +was watched with mingled hopes and anxieties by Fairfax. +When news of the final capitulation at Yorktown arrived late in +October 1781 the feeble, disappointed and tired old man called +his servant and asked to be put to bed since he felt the time had +come for him to die. In December of that same year the great +proprietor of the Northern Neck of Virginia died.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[Pg 26]</a></span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Winchester" id="Winchester"></a>Winchester—The Frontier Town of the Valley</h2> + + +<p>The first inhabitants of Winchester were a large tribe of +Shawnee Indians. Two houses occupied by white men are supposed +to have been standing as early as 1738.</p> + +<p>Known as Old Town and Fredericktown it was named Winchester +in 1752 in honor of the English home of its founder, +Colonel James Wood. The settlement grew so rapidly it was +necessary several times to enlarge its boundaries. Colonel Wood +and Lord Fairfax both donated additional lots in order to extend +the corporate limits of the town.</p> + +<p>During the French and Indian War Colonel George Washington +was asked to go to Winchester to defend the Valley. He +found refugees overrunning the place and determined to build +a fort on the outskirts of the town which would afford protection +in case of raids. He imported his own blacksmith to do the +foundry work, so anxious was he to speed the construction of +the fortifications. Fort Loudon was the name given, after Lord +Loudon the commander of the colonial forces, and a successful +defense was made against the French there. It may be of interest +to learn that the fort's bastion still remains and the well +which supplied water during the French and Indian War is still +in use today.</p> + +<p>No account of Winchester would be complete if the story of +General Daniel Morgan were omitted. Of Scotch-Irish extraction +he came with his parents from New Jersey to the new settlement. +As a youngster he was considered something of a bully. The +story goes that around "Battletown," an intersection in the roads +where toughs used to fight for the joy of combat, young Morgan +was in the habit of placing large stones at strategic points. In +case he had to retreat he was able to draw on this supply of +ammunition!</p> + +<p>Tradition has it that on one occasion young Dan Morgan had +just arrived in Winchester from the Western settlements on the +South Branch—as a driver of a pack for the fur traders. George +Washington was ready with his small party to go to the Ohio +Country with a message to the French officials not to continue +their fort building on English property.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[Pg 27]</a></span> +<img src="images/illus-035.jpg" width="600" height="350" alt="George Washington's Headquarters, Winchester, Va." title="George Washington's Headquarters, Winchester, Va." /> +<p class="attrib">—<i>Courtesy Virginia State Chamber of Commerce</i></p> +<p class="caption">George Washington's Headquarters, Winchester, Va.</p> +</div> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[Pg 28]</a></span></p> +<p>Washington's journal gives the following notes: "On Ye 17th +day of Ye month of Novemo,—the party consists of one guide +and packer, one Indian interpreter, one French interpreter and +four gentlemen." We know now that the celebrated Gist was his +guide and Vanbraam his interpreter. It is said that Morgan +offered his services too as a guide, and was accepted. It was on +this perilous trip, perhaps, that each of these young men realized +the fine traits of the other.</p> + +<p>It was Daniel Morgan who, at the outbreak of the Revolution, +marched a hundred men with one wagon of supplies to Boston +to report to General Washington. He fought at Quebec and +Saratoga and defeated Tarleton at Cowpens. He had charge of +Hessian prisoners captured at Saratoga and there are evidences +yet of his supervision of construction of stone walls and homes +and the mill at Millwood built with prisoner labor.</p> + +<p>"Saratoga" is the name he gave his home near Boyce; it was +built mainly by the Hessian artisans. On his way to Gettysburg +in 1863 General Lee used the fine old house as headquarters. +This estate is on the road between Winchester and Boyce and is +in full view of the highway.</p> + +<p>There is a wealth of amusing tales told about the old city, +some dating as far back as its conception; others have to do with +the activities of later times.</p> + +<p>The story is still heard in Winchester of the time when guests +and village loafers were congregated in one of the taverns at the +close of a day to discuss weighty topics over their glasses of ale. +From a window they saw an old man get out of his gig, taking +with him luggage for overnight accommodation. The gig was +comparable to the famed One Horse Shay in its state of near +collapse. Comments were passed among the group inside as to +the man's shabby appearance, his business and ultimate destination. +He was soon forgot in the midst of the ensuing conversation +between several young lawyers, one of whom remarked +that he had heard a sermon delivered which equalled the eloquence +and fluency usually reserved to lawyers pleading their +cases. This brought forth eventually a heated discussion of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[Pg 29]</a></span> +merits of the Christian religion, argued pro and con by those +present lasting from six in the evening till eleven.</p> + +<p>Finally one young fellow turned to the quiet old traveller. +The latter had sat with apparent interest and meekness throughout +the five-hour debate and had not joined in. The question +was asked, "Well, old gentleman, what's your opinion?"</p> + +<p>The reply lasted almost an hour; he answered argument for +argument in the exact order in which each had occurred and with +the greatest simplicity and dignity. At the conclusion no one +spoke for some time. At last inquiry was ventured as to his +identity. He was Chief Justice John Marshall.</p> + +<p>In his <i>Virginia: A History of the People</i> John Esten Cooke relates +this story. An Irish laborer and his wife came in 1767 to the +lower valley country and stopped at the home of a Mr. and Mrs. +Strode, German landowner. For several years they lived with +the German family and during the time a son was born. When +they decided to push on farther south the Strode children followed, +begging that they leave the little boy behind with them. +They had become very much attached to the baby and were +reluctant to see him go away. The parents naturally refused the +request. While stopping for a short rest they placed the baby on +the ground and the children would have run off with him if +they could.</p> + +<p>The family kept its southward course and at last reached the +Waxhaws in North Carolina. Here the boy grew up and later +his name was familiar to every one—Andrew Jackson, seventh +President of the United States.</p> + +<p>The legend may or may not be true, according to Mr. Cooke. +But at least there was a clear, cool spring on the Strode farm +called "Jackson's Spring."</p> + +<p>A pamphlet compiled at Winchester on "What To See and +How To See It" tells us that the town changed hands seventy-six +times during the War Between the States. Other sources give a +fraction of a smaller figure. The exact number of times the town +was under first Federal then Confederate forces does not matter, +but it is well to know that so much of the fighting took place +around the neighborhood. More will be said about the Valley +warfare later on.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[Pg 30]</a></span></p> + +<p>Beginning in November 1861 and continuing until March of +the following year General Jackson had his headquarters in Winchester. +After finding suitable quarters he sent for his wife who +had remained at their home in Lexington, Virginia. Colonel +Henderson in his well-known book, <i>Stonewall Jackson,</i> quotes +Mrs. Jackson as saying of her stay that Winter:</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>"The Winchester ladies were amongst the most famous of Virginia +housekeepers, and lived in a good deal of old-fashioned elegance and +profusion. The old border town had not then changed hands with the +conflicting armies, as it was destined to do so many times during the +war. Under the rose-colored light in which I viewed everything that +winter, it seemed to me that no people could have been more cultivated, +attractive, and noble-hearted. Winchester was rich in happy +homes and pleasant people; and the extreme kindness and appreciation +shown General Jackson by all bound us to them so closely and warmly +that ever after that winter he called the place our 'war home'."</p></div> + +<p>Winchester rightly claims that it is in the "heart of the apple +industry," for thousands of acres are devoted to the growing of +fine apples. Over a million barrels are harvested annually and at +Winchester, we believe, is the largest cold storage apple plant +in the world.</p> + +<p>Celebrating its crop each year, the city stages an apple blossom +festival during the latter part of April or the first of May when +the orchards for miles around are filled with the delicately tinted +pink blooms. This is a lavish sort of entertainment. A queen is +selected to reign over the festivities, her maids are invited from +surrounding sections of the country to participate in the parades +and balls which are given during the days' programs. If you +haven't been already, plan to attend an Apple Blossom Festival +and see Virginia in one of her prettiest moods—with gay young +ladies and bloom-filled orchards.</p> + +<p>You know of the "Tom, Dick and Harry" trio of Winchester +and its neighborhood, don't you? They are the world famous +Byrd brothers, descendants of the founder of Richmond, Colonel +William Byrd of Westover on the James. Tom Byrd is a successful +planter and orchardist. Richard Byrd is noted for his +polar expeditions; now he is devoting all his energies towards +the perpetuation of peace for our country. Harry Byrd was at +one time a progressive young Governor of the State and now +serves as a Senator in the United States Congress.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</a></span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="The_Valley_Pike" id="The_Valley_Pike"></a>The Valley Pike</h2> + + +<p>"Route Eleven" as the road is called from Winchester to Bristol +is one of the most historic as well as the most beautiful in all +Virginia. It stretches, like a broad silver ribbon, for over three +hundred and fifty miles. It begins at the northern end of the +Valley, near the Potomac River, and leads one through the fertile +Valley, southward and winding ever westward through the Blue +Ridge and the <a name="corr_3"></a><ins class="mycorr" title="Original: Alleghaney">Alleghany</ins> mountains.</p> + +<p>Let us review this famous driveway. Long before the coming +of the white men, the Indians followed almost a natural trail, as +they journeyed back and forth into the richest hunting grounds +known anywhere in all their world. Along it they found the big +elk, bear, buffalo, wolves, foxes, wild turkeys and smaller game.</p> + +<p>The first pioneers followed this Indian Trail, as they called it. +Then, as they developed the country more and more, they brought +in horses and oxen. This made a wider road and soon they were +rolling their hogsheads of tobacco and grain over it. They carried +their products to market in heavy wagons, swapping their wild +bees' honey, venison, grain, and hand-woven linen for the precious +salt, sugar, iron and lead. Over this road came an ever increasing +number of other pioneers to settle near those already living in +the rich Valley. They brought their furniture, guns, and families +and a most fervent respect for the priceless liberty to be found +there. Liberty where one could worship God as one pleased. +Liberty where one's children could share in the development and +in a new country, full of opportunities.</p> + +<p>Historians claim that the young George Washington surveyed +this road through the Valley. Engineers today say that he did +a wonderful work and that they would make a few changes in it. +Let us look at some of the famous names of those who lived near +or travelled over it. Some of them lived within sight of the +beautiful Blue Ridge Mountains while others visited from one +end of it to the other. As one travels near Winchester, he reads +the names of John Marshall, George Washington, and General +Morgan. From Charlottesville one reads of Patrick Henry visiting +Thomas Jefferson at Monticello. There, too, were Lewis and +Clarke, men famous in the development of our West, the Mc<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[Pg 32]</a></span>Cormicks, +the Houstons, the Austins and other noted Virginians +who went West and settled there.</p> + +<p>By now the Road was being called by many names, such as +"The Old Indian Trail", "The Great Road", the "Settlers's +Road", while still others called it the "Wilderness Road".</p> + +<p>Then came peace and prosperity after the French and Indian +War and that of the Revolution. Finer horses and carriages were +being brought into the Valley and so a better road had to be +built. Some thrifty soul suggested having a splendid road which +should be maintained by tollgates. And so was built the famous +"Valley Pike". This was the pride, not only of the Valley, but of +all Virginia and the South.</p> + +<p>Interesting stories are told every day, as one travels over this +beautiful road, such as that of Charlotte Hillman who kept a tollgate +along the Pike. While Sheridan was making his famous raid +through the Valley (when he remarked that a crow travelling +through the countryside would have to carry a knapsack with +provisions for his flight), he came to the tollgate. Charlotte let +down the gate and demanded toll from the army before allowing +it to pass. The General and his staff paid the toll but he +refused to pay for the entire corps. She lifted the gate but cut a +notch on a tree for every ten soldiers who passed. At the close +of the War she presented the United States Government with a +bill—which is said to have been paid in full.</p> + +<p>Today Route Eleven is known as the Lee-Jackson Highway, so +called in honor of Generals Robert Edward Lee and "Stonewall" +Jackson. As you travel through the Great Valley of Virginia may +you know more intimately the great men and women who have +built not only the Great Valley of Virginia, but who have helped +in the making of America. We hope this little book may make +you know them and love Virginia more ... and we hope you will +come again and again to enjoy the Great Valley of Virginia.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[Pg 33]</a></span> +Berryville</p> + + +<p>Long before the County of Clarke was ordered to be carved +from Frederick, a town was established called Battletown. This +was so called, says tradition, because of the rough and-tumble +fights of the gang who met there to drink their ale.</p> + +<p>Daniel Morgan, a picturesque character of the Valley, thought +he had the right to stop such fights and so he frequently got into +the fray. Old records show that Morgan sometimes had to pay +a fine "for misbehavior." But no doubt it was here that he won +his strength and learned to out-match the toughs of the neighborhood. +Certainly he won a reputation for his prowess, and as a +general he won distinction.</p> + +<p>The town changed its name in 1798 when it was granted a +charter and became Berryville. It was named for its founder +Benjamin Berry, who donated the land and when Clark County +was formed in 1836, Berryville was chosen as the county seat.</p> + +<p>Tradition tells us that George Washington boarded with Captain +Charles Smith when he was in the Valley surveying for +Lord Fairfax. This home was about a half mile from the present +Berryville. His office while in the Valley was a small log building +which was used as a spring house for "Soldier's Rest." A cold +spring of water flows under the floor of the first room, which is +about twelve feet square. George used the room upstairs for his +sleeping quarters. It was there he kept his instruments and +carefully recorded in his diary his experiences. It was there he +made out his reports for Lord Fairfax. Howe, an early historian, +tells us about that youth of sixteen. Quoting Bancroft, he writes: +"The woods of Virginia sheltered the youthful George Washington, +the son of a widow. Born by the side of the Potomac, +beneath the roof of a Westmoreland farmer, almost from infancy +his lot had been the lot of an orphan. No academy had welcomed +him to its shade, no college crowned him with its honors, to read, +to write, to cipher—these had been his degrees of knowledge. +And now at sixteen years, in quest of an honest maintainance, +encountering intolerable toil, cheered onward by being able to +write to a boyhood friend, 'Dear Richard, a doubloon is my +constant gain every day, and sometimes six pistoles.' He was his +own cook, having no spit but a forked stick, no plate but a large<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[Pg 34]</a></span> +chip; roaming over the spurs of the Alleghanies and along the +banks of the Shenandoah, alive to nature, among skin-clad savages, +with their scalps and rattles, or uncouth emigrants that would +never speak English, rarely sleeping in a bed, holding a bear skin +a splendid couch, glad of a resting place for a night upon a +little hay, straw or fodder ... this stripling surveyor in the +woods, with no companion but his unlettered associates, and no +implements of science but his compass and chain, contrasted +strangely with his fellows. And yet God had not selected a +Newcastle, nor a monarch of the Hapsburg, nor of Hanover, but +the Virginia Stripling to give to human affairs and as far as events +can depend upon individuals, had placed the rights and destinies +of countless millions in the keeping of the widow's son."</p> + +<p>While in the Valley of Virginia the young George Washington +learned how to tell the age of various trees by the thickness of +their bark. The older a tree is, the thicker the bark and it is +much rougher and thicker on the north side of the tree. He +learned to know the course of the winds and to get to the +leeward of his game when out hunting for food or skins. This +was done by putting his finger in his mouth and holding it +there until it became warm, then holding it high above his head; +the side which became cold showed him which way the wind was +blowing. He learned that the deer always seeks the sheltered +places and the leeward side of the hills. In rainy weather, they +keep in the open woods and on the highest grounds. He found +that the fur or skins of animals are good in all those months in +which an "R" is found in the spelling.</p> + +<p>He learned how to track animals, to know the various birds' +songs and cries. He watched the hunters build their camp fires +and learned how to cook his own game.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Front_Royal" id="Front_Royal"></a>Front Royal</h2> + + +<p>As most of us know, Charles II lived in such extravagant style +and had such a luxurious court he had difficulty in keeping his +bills paid. He was accustomed to resorting to one scheme after +another in order to raise revenue. At one time he dreamt of +great wealth from the Virginia colony through its tobacco crop—and +it did supply him generously with taxes.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[Pg 35]</a></span></p> + +<p>Realizing a lucrative business might be established by trading +in furs with the Indians, Charles ordered Governor Berkeley to +send explorers beyond the mountains. The governor chose a man +of whom history records very little. John Lederer was at one +time a Franciscan monk. He obviously had leanings towards an +adventuresome life. In 1761 he set out for the West, under the +compulsion of Governor Berkeley. The party was composed of +five Indian guides and a Colonel Catlett. They went through +Manassas Gap in the neighborhood of Front Royal.</p> + +<p>The expedition proved a failure because of the unfriendly +attitude of the Indians and the roughness of the country. Charles +was destined for another disappointment.</p> + +<p>White settlers came to Front Royal as early as 1734 and built +their little houses in sheltered coves near the Shenandoah. Soon, +news of the desirable home sites in the Valley attracted other +settlers. Lehewtown was the early name given the settlement.</p> + +<p>Rough characters began to find their way here and shootings, +brawls and hard drinking were the order of the day—so much so +that the place later became known as "Helltown." However, it +acquired more dignity and order with the years and about 1788 +it was incorporated under the name of Front Royal. And why +did the town get its double name? There are several existing +legends as to the derivation of the town's present name.</p> + +<p>The trails from Page and Shenandoah valleys crossed at this +point. One account states that the settlers going from one place +to another met at a tavern at the crossroads where the Royalist +troops were stationed. Hence ground around the town was a +military post. When the sentry on guard called out "Front" and +the settlers were not able to give the password "Royal." The +name Camp Front Royal was given the post and later it was +known by the last two words.</p> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + +<p>A particularly tragic battle occurred at Front Royal in May, +1862, when the First Maryland Regiment of the Union forces met +the First Maryland Regiment of the Confederate Army. It happened +when Stonewall Jackson came out suddenly from the Page +valley and attacked General Banks' left wing stationed at this +town. The Federals were defeated and were driven on through<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[Pg 36]</a></span> +Rivertown where they tried hard to burn the bridges and cut off +the Confederate advance. The cavalry of the latter under Ewell +saved the bridges which spanned the two branches of the Shenandoah +River. About two weeks later the Confederates themselves +burned the bridges, but this was after Jackson had flanked Banks +away from the position at Strasburg, followed him to Winchester +and won a victory there.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Flint_Hill" id="Flint_Hill"></a>Flint Hill</h2> + + +<p>In 1861 young Albert Willis was a theological student. Like +many others, he left his studies to enter the services of the +Confederate Army. While he was not a chaplain in Mosby's +Rangers in which he had enlisted, he did carry on his pastoral +work with the men by giving them Bibles, holding some services, +and writing home for those who could not write; no day passed +during which he did not find an opportunity to be of service to +the men.</p> + +<p>One day in October, 1864 he was granted a furlough and was +riding southward to Culpeper, hoping to reach his home in that +county. Not far away from Flint Hill his horse lost a shoe, so he +stopped at Gaines Mill. There was a rickety old blacksmith shop +at the crossroads. It had been raining and he was very wet. +While the horse was being shod, he stood near the fire to dry +his boots. The beat of the hammer on the iron drowned out +the sounds of approaching horses on which rode Federal soldiers.</p> + +<p>Willis was taken captive and joined another prisoner outside. +The two Confederates were told that one of them must die in +reprisal for the death of a Federal soldier who had been killed +the day before.</p> + +<p>The prisoners were carried before General William H. Powell, +Union Cavalry leader. Someone told General Powell that Mr. +Willis was a chaplain.</p> + +<p>"If you are a chaplain," General Powell told him, "your life +will be spared."</p> + +<p>"I am not a chaplain," the young Confederate replied, "I am a +soldier, fighting in the ranks."</p> + +<p>General Powell then told the Confederates that one of them<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[Pg 37]</a></span> +would be hanged within an hour. They would be given straws to +draw lots. In this way would one be spared.</p> + +<p>Willis replied that he was a Christian and was not afraid to +die. He insisted that the other Confederate who was a married +man, be set free. The doomed man was led out to a spot on the +road near Flint Hill. A rope was placed around his neck while +the other end was tied to a young sapling which had been bent +down by the weight of several Federal soldiers.</p> + +<p>While the preparations were being made, young Willis knelt +down and prayed. A witness said he never heard such a beautiful +prayer, lacking all bitterness. When he was through, the men +released the tree and it sprang into its natural position, swinging +Willis high into the air, where the body was left.</p> + +<p>When the Federals had gone, Mr. John Ricketts came by with +a companion and they cut down the rope, took the body of the +brave Confederate and buried it in the cemetery at Flint Hill. +Today there is a stone which marks his resting place and every +Spring women go and place flowers on his grave. Nearby is a +small chapel named in honor of him—"Willis Chapel."</p> + +<p>General Powell knew that young Willis was not accused as a +spy, but he was carrying out an order, issued in August 1864 by +General U. S. Grant, which read: "When any of Mosby's men are +caught hang them without trial."</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="The_Skyline_Drive" id="The_Skyline_Drive"></a>The Skyline Drive</h2> + + +<p>This world famous drive is not very old in point of years, but +its lure has and is attracting thousands of visitors every week to +see the beauties along its borders. Beginning at the northern +entrance at Front Royal, one winds around curving grades of +finely built roads which pass through great forests of oak, walnut, +maple and wonderful specimens of evergreens.</p> + +<p>West of the Drive one sees the eastern section of the Shenandoah +Valley and Massanutten Mountain which divides the Shenandoah +River into two forks for fifty miles or more. The river winds +in and out and at one place the guide will point out eleven bits of +blue river spots as it makes as many turns through the Valley. +One thinks of old patchwork quilts as he looks into the Valley<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[Pg 38]</a></span> +below, for there are patches of green fields, oblong bits of blue +water, red roofs of barns and homes, besides the various shades of +greenwood lots.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/illus-046.jpg" width="400" height="463" alt="View Along the Skyline Drive in the +Shenandoah National Park" title="View Along the Skyline Drive in the +Shenandoah National Park" /> +<p class="attrib">—<i>Courtesy Virginia State Chamber of Commerce</i></p> +<p class="caption">View Along the Skyline Drive in the +Shenandoah National Park</p></div> + +<p>And no matter when or how often one goes, the views are +never the same. Sometimes the blue haze from the Blue Ridge +Mountains makes the sunlight turn to a golden mist. Clouds +often cast huge moving shadows over the fields and forests below—and +sometimes they shut out the patchwork entirely, leaving +the visitor in a gray world, with only himself and the clouds +below and above. But this is unusual.</p> + +<p>Tall stark gray chestnut trees make a striking contrast against +the greens and flowers, especially in the Fall when the leaves are<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[Pg 39]</a></span> +so brilliantly colored. These once-producing nut trees were killed +by blight years ago.</p> + +<p>Occasionally one's attention is caught by a moving object high +above on some peak. This will prove, upon investigation, to be +a hiker, or maybe two or more. Every year more and more of +these nature lovers are using the Appalachian Trail, which, as you +know, is the foot-trail from Maine to Georgia. It was through +the Potomac Appalachian Trail Club that this link in the trail +was included in the Skyline Drive and they maintain locked +shelters for hikers along the way within the park.</p> + +<p>Other trails invite one to lofty peaks through wild canyons and +into groves of giant hemlocks. Another takes one through White +Oak Canyon where a stream of pure water tumbles over huge +rocks and makes a snow-white misty spray. Here one sees rare +wild flowers, ferns, moss and herbs. There are trout lilies, +Solomon's-seal, Hepaticæ and many other varieties of flowers.</p> + +<p>There is a trail to Big and Little Devil's Staircases where two +hundred foot cliffs protect narrow canyons filled with maidenhair +fern, spleenwort, cinnamon, wild parsley, ginseng and ginger. +Tall maple and tulip trees are lovingly intertwined by such clinging +vines as trumpet vines and honeysuckle while at their feet +grow rare ferns and carpets of moss. One hears the songs of the +birds and sees the flashing of their brilliant colored wings.</p> + +<p>Not far from Mary's Rock is Skyland. Here the tourist finds +accommodations for overnight or longer. Big roaring fires at +evening make visitors linger to listen to the stories of the Valley.</p> + +<p>Horseback riding is great sport for the Skyline guests who +explore the various trails nearby.</p> + +<p>The visitor may leave the drive at Panorama and go west down +the mountain to Luray. Or he may go east from Panorama down +a lovely road to Sperryville. Then on Route 211 he may motor +north to Washington or, if he would like to go by way of Culpeper, +Madison, Orange and Fredericksburg, he would find a +rolling country and inviting roads to the west, south and east.</p> + +<p>If the visitor would continue the drive to Swift Run Gap, he +could go over the Spotswood Trail to Elkton and to the Valley +beyond. If he would go east, he would also use the Spotswood +Trail to Stanardsville and Gordonsville, then to Orange or to +Charlottesville.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[Pg 40]</a></span></p> + +<p>Who dreamed the dream or had the first vision of the Skyline +Drive? What farsighted men started the movement which resulted +in our national government's making a great scenic park +in Virginia?</p> + +<p>A bulletin from the <i>Commonwealth</i> gives the following +summary:</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>"The movement which has made this area a national park was +begun in 1924 when the director of the National Park Service and the +Secretary of the Interior conferred on the establishment of a park in +the southern Appalachian Mountains. The Secretary appointed a committee +to choose the most attractive and suitable area; in December, +1924, his committee voted unanimously for the area of the Blue Ridge +mountains between Front Royal and Waynesboro to be the first large +national park in the East....</p> + +<p>"Acquisition of the area was a very difficult task. In 1926 the +newly created Virginia State Commission on Conservation and Development +started field work, and the Shenandoah National Park +Association began a campaign to raise funds for the purchase of the +land. The required area was made up of 3,870 separate tracts. Most +of the owners did not wish to sell; land titles were not clear nor +boundaries well defined; sufficient money to make the purchase was not +available. Congress reduced the minimum area required for administration, +protection, and development of the park by the National Park +Service. Certain individuals made large donations. The Virginia legislature +appropriated $1,000,000 for acquisition and passed a special +law providing for wholesale condemnation of the land. Finally, in +1935, at a total cost of approximately $2,000,000, 275 square miles +were acquired, and the deed to the park area was presented to the +United States government by the State of Virginia.</p> + +<p>"The completion of this tremendous task of acquiring and establishing +the Shenandoah National Park has made available to the people +of the United States, for recreational and educational purposes, an +unusually attractive region of mountains, hollows, dashing streams, +forests and flowers.</p> + +<p>"The mountains rise to a maximum height of slightly more than +4,000 feet above sea level, or approximately 3,200 feet above the +surrounding country."</p></div> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Strasburg" id="Strasburg"></a>Strasburg</h2> + + +<p>We can hardly mention a Valley town which has retained its +original name throughout the years. What is now known as +Strasburg was in the beginning called Staufferstadt, which indi<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[Pg 41]</a></span>cates +its German background. Peter Stover was the founder from +whom the settlement took its name but when he had the town +incorporated in 1761 he changed it to Strasburg in honor of his +home city in Germany.</p> + +<p>There are evidences of the pioneer life of the Valley to be +seen near here. A house built about 1755 and occupied by the +Hupps was so constructed as to serve efficiently as a fort during +the Indian raids; this may still be seen. The home of George +Bowman, a son-in-law of Joist Hite, is also close by Strasburg.</p> + +<p>Joist Hite had four famous grandsons born at this Bowman +home. John was a governor of Kentucky. Abraham was a +Colonel in the Revolutionary War and Isaac also served in that +war. Joseph served under General George Rogers Clark in the +expedition to the Northwest Territory.</p> + +<p>The story is told that a party of eight Indians with a white +man named Abraham Mitchell killed George Miller and his wife +and two children just two miles from Strasburg. They also killed +John Dellinger and took his wife and baby prisoners.</p> + +<p>A group of white men set out to find them and overtook the +Indians in the South Branch Mountains. They fired upon the +Indians and killed one of them, allowing the others to make their +escape. Mrs. Dellinger was forgotten in their flight so she came +home with her neighbors. She told them the Indians had killed +her baby by dashing out its brains on a tree—a favorite means +of execution with them.</p> + +<p>Samuel Kercheval, who so frequently is quoted by us and of +whom we have written elsewhere is buried near Strasburg at +"Harmony Hall."</p> + +<p>The town saw Union and Confederate troops march by during +the length of the war and several battles took place not far +distant. A few trench lines may still be seen around the countryside. +"Banks' Folly" was erected by General Banks when he +expected Jackson to invade the territory from the south and later +found to his dismay that the Confederates had entered the Valley +from the opposite direction. Signal Knob on top of Massanutten +Mountain was used by the latter general as a means of communication +with the main division of the army on the Rappahannock +River.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[Pg 42]</a></span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Orkney_Springs" id="Orkney_Springs"></a>Orkney Springs</h2> + + +<p>Orkney Springs, earlier known as the Yellow Springs, was +named for the Earl of Orkney and was surveyed by George +Washington, according to some accounts. The Springs may be +reached by travelling west of Mount Jackson.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>"The Orkney Springs are composed of several lively springs and +are strongly chalybeate. Everything the water touches or passes +through, or over, is beautifully lined with a bright yellow fringe or +moss. The use of this water is found beneficial for the cure of several +complaints. A free use of this water acts as a most powerful cathartic, +as does also a small quantity of the fringe or moss, mixed with +common water."</p></div> + +<p>So stated the historian Howe concerning the Springs. Around +the waters there grew up a tiny village which accommodates the +visitors to the section. An excellent hotel caters to the guests +who seek either quiet and rest or zestful games.</p> + +<p>Near Orkney Springs there is a beautiful outdoor shrine where +the Episcopal Church holds regular and impressive services during +the Summer months—Shrinemont.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Stephens_City" id="Stephens_City"></a>Stephens City</h2> + + +<p>An act of the General Assembly in 1758 made Stephens City, +or Stephensburg as it was then known, the second town in the +Valley. The first was Winchester. Lewis Stephens the founder +of this town came to Virginia with Joist Hite in 1732.</p> + +<p>Later on this was a thriving town manufacturing the Newtown-Stephensburg +wagon that was the pride of teamsters who travelled +all roads leading south and west. They took merchandise into +the wilderness and returned with furs, skins and other products +sent back by those settlers who had pushed on farther into the +wilds of Virginia. Many a covered wagon which saw the plains +of the Middle West had its birth in Stephensburg.</p> + +<p>When the Forty-Niners created companies which sent supplies +to the gold fields of California they found that few wagons +lasted more than six months. At last they began to order those +being made in Stephensburg. These were found to be sturdier in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[Pg 43]</a></span> +build and could stand the strain of the rough roads and paths +longer than other wagons on the market.</p> + +<p>The stores in the town were good ones, and often covered +wagons came in drawn by splendid horses. The drivers of these +teams put up overnight at the old taverns and many of the +citizens gathered after supper to hear the news of what was +going on in Alexandria or in Tennessee. The drivers would be +called personal shoppers today, for they brought lists of articles +to be carried back into the far-off country for the convenience of +the homesteaders there. The lists probably included sugar, tea +and coffee, cloth by the bolt and household articles. You can +imagine the joy with which the covered wagons would be sighted +days later!</p> + +<p>During Jackson's Valley Campaign the village was known as +Newtown and mention is made in this book of fighting in the +neighborhood.</p> + +<p>Today the main industry centers around lime which is found +in large quantities close by.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Middletown" id="Middletown"></a>Middletown</h2> + + +<p>As an early village this was known as Senseny Town, in honor +of the doctor by that name who owned the land. In 1795 it was +called Middletown. Long ago it was a manufacturing town and +was noted for the fine clocks and watches which were splendid +time-keepers for the punctual and thrifty Valley folk. In fact, the +demands for them came from far and near. The old wooden +wheels were first used, then brass was introduced and the watch-makers +learned to make the eight-day clocks—the last word in +time-keepers until the advent of the modern electric clocks. The +manufacturers of the watches and clocks soon made instruments +for surveyors as well as the much needed compasses.</p> + +<p>The first successful effort to produce a machine to take the +place of the flail and threshing floor for threshing wheat from +the straw had its start in this same town. The machines were a +marvel in their day and the villagers talked for months at the +time when the machine beat out one hundred bushels of grain in +one day!<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[Pg 44]</a></span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="The_Story_Teller_of_the_Valley_Samuel" id="The_Story_Teller_of_the_Valley_Samuel"></a>The Story Teller of the Valley—Samuel Kercheval</h2> + +<h3>PIONEER LIFE</h3> + + +<p>Samuel Kercheval as a boy saw many of the pioneer men and +women who had cut their homes out of the wilderness. He never +tired hearing of how they had left Germany, and later had come +down from Pennsylvania into the Valley. He himself could +remember many of the "Newcomers" who were themselves +pioneers. He loved the stories of the forts, the Indian raids and +the customs of the Germans and Scotch-Irish. He later began +to write down many of these stories and after he was older he +rode up and down the Valley gathering more and more stories +and reading wills and old records. Nothing was of too little value +for him to record, even accounts of the freaks of nature, like a +six-legged calf, snakes and other animals.</p> + +<p>When Kercheval's friends insisted that he write a book about +the Valley, he objected until they told him how much the children +of the country would enjoy stories of their grandparents. His +own children (there had been fourteen of them in all), like all +children, loved stories. Now he began to get his notes in shape +and about one hundred years after the first settlers came into the +Valley, Samuel Kercheval's <i>History of the Valley of Virginia</i> was +ready for the publishers.</p> + +<p>This was so popular that all the first edition was soon exhausted. +How pleased he was with the demands for more of +them! However, he died before the second edition came out. +He lived at the time of his death in 1845 at "Harmony Hall" near +Strasburg. This had at one time been a fort. During an Indian +raid, we are told, sixteen families sought shelter within its old +stone walls. They lived together so peaceably that they gave it +the name of "Harmony Hall."</p> + +<p>It is from Kercheval that we get the first pictures of the +Valley. He writes that it was long beautiful prairie, with tall +rich grasses, five and six feet tall, with fringes of sturdy timbers<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[Pg 45]</a></span> +following its swiftly running streams. He describes the kinds +of soils and tells which is rich and which is poor. For instance +he says where one finds slate he may rest assured the soil will +not produce very good crops. On the other hand, where one finds +limestone the soil will produce fine products, grains and fruits.</p> + +<p>Metal was found in some of the hillsides and mountains. +An Englishman named Powell found silver ore on the mountain +which bears his name. He smeltered the silver and from it made +coins. This was breaking the laws, of course, and soon officers +were attempting to arrest him. Powell fled to his mountain +where he had a small fort hidden, and for years eluded them. +After many years men found his little shop where he smeltered +the ore and Kercheval himself saw the crude crucible in which +the ore was refined and the iron utensils also.</p> + +<p>Kercheval tells that many of the farmers found it difficult to +plough their lands and to make crops because of the innumerable +small and large stones which they found everywhere. At last +they decided to get rid of them and built many of the stone +walls which one sees up and down the mountain sides, along +winding roads and enclosing picturesque homes. He says the soil +is so rich that seeds do not need to be planted very deep, as they +will germinate if there is only enough soil to cover them.</p> + +<p>There were great sugar-maple trees too and he tells of those +"sugar hills" in which there are four or five hundred acres of +trees. They even look like sugar loaves from a distance and +today on Paddy's Mountain you may still see some of them. You +may already have guessed that the name Paddy was in honor of +the owner Patrick Blake, an Irishman who built in the gap which +is named for him.</p> + +<p>Kercheval lists carefully all the various healing springs and +gives the properties of each. He even gives the names of many +persons who were benefitted by drinking from or bathing in them.</p> + +<p>Let us pause here and read about these pioneers, how they +built their houses, how they dressed, and something of their superstitions, +manners and customs.</p> + +<p>The first settlers built plain sturdy houses made mostly from +rough hewn logs. Some of these were covered with split clap<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[Pg 46]</a></span>boards, +having weight poles to keep them in place. Many of them +had no floors except the earth itself. If made of wood, they +used rough logs, split in two and roughly smoothed with a broad +ax. However, as they improved the lands and their families grew, +some larger houses were built of stone, which the men and boys +brought in from the fields.</p> + +<p>The married men generally shaved their heads and they wore +wigs or linen caps. When the Revolutionary War broke out this +custom was stopped for they could no longer buy wigs from +Europe and none were made in this country. There was little +linen, so they could not get enough for other needs and they +could do without caps.</p> + +<p>The men's coats were mostly made with broad backs and +straight short skirts. These had huge pockets with flaps. The +waistcoats had skirts nearly down to the knees and pockets also. +Their breeches were so short they hardly reached to their knees, +and they were fastened with a tight band. Their stockings were +drawn up under the knee-hand and tied with a red or blue garter +below the knee so it could be seen. Their shoes were made of +coarse leather, with straps and they were fastened with buckles of +brass for every day—maybe with silver for Sundays and holidays. +The men's hats were either of wool or fur with a round crown +three or four inches in height and with a very broad brim. The +shirt collar was only a narrow band and over it was worn a white +linen stock drawn together at the ends and fastened with a broad +metal buckle.</p> + +<p>The women wore a short gown and petticoat of plain materials +and a calico cap. Their hair was combed back from the forehead +and made into a plain knot at the nape of the neck.</p> + +<p>The women and girls worked in the fields and wore no shoes +except in the winter. They worked from dawn 'til dark, for they +milked, churned, made cheese, washed and ironed for the family, +cooked, spun and wove, knitted stockings and quilted in their +leisure moments. Kercheval tells us how they made apple butter +and sourkrout. Of the latter he wrote:</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>"Sourkrout is made of the best of cabbage. A box about three +feet in length and six or seven inches wide, with a sharp blade fixed<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[Pg 47]</a></span> +across the bottom, something on the principle of the jack plane, is +used for cutting the cabbage. The head being separated from the +stalk and stripped of its outer leaves is placed in this box and run back +and forth. The cabbage thus cut up is placed in a barrel, a little salt is +sprinkled on from time to time, then pressed down very closely and +covered at the open head. In the course of three or four weeks it +acquires a sourish taste and to persons accustomed to the use of it is a +very agreeable food. It is said the use of it within the last few years +on boards of ship has proved it to be the best preventive known +for scurvy. The use of it is becoming pretty general among all classes +in the Valley."</p></div> + +<p>Kercheval even tells us what the pioneers did for medicine. +When he was a boy he saw a man brought into the fort on horseback, +who had been bitten by a rattlesnake. One of the men +dragged the snake, fastened to a forked stick, behind the victim. +The body of the snake was cut into small pieces, split and laid +on the wounded flesh. This, they claimed, would draw out the +poison of the bite. When this was done, the snake was burned to +ashes. During this process, others gathered chestnut leaves and +boiled them in a pot. Wide pieces of chestnut bark were applied +to the man's wound and the chestnut-leaf mixture poured over +some of the boiled leaves which had been made into a <a name="corr_4"></a><ins class="mycorr" title="Original: poultrice">poultice</ins>. +This was kept up during the first day and if not improved, the +treatment was continued the next.</p> + +<p>Others suggested using boiled plantain, cooked in milk, which +was given to the patient. Walnut fern was another remedy for +snakebite. The braver patient submitted to cupping, sucking the +wound or having someone cut out the flesh around the bite.</p> + +<p>Gunshot wounds were treated with slippery-elm bark, flax seed +poultices or by scraping the wound itself and cauterizing it.</p> + +<p>The people suffering from rheumatism were rubbed with oil +made from rattlesnakes, bears, geese, wolves or any wild animal. +This was put on a flannel rag and bound to the parts affected.</p> + +<p>There were all kinds of syrups made from herbs such as spike +nard and elecampane for coughs and tuberculosis. The Germans +used songs or incantations for the cure of burns, nose-bleed and +toothache. For one afflicted with erysipelas the blood of a black +cat was given. Hence there were few cats which had not lost +parts of their ears or tails.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[Pg 48]</a></span></p> + +<p>The sports of the boys in those early days were mostly those +which developed their physical bodies. The boys were given a +gun almost as soon as they were strong enough to carry one. +They learned to make their own bows and to sharpen their own +arrows and many of them could shoot as straight as the Indians +who still roamed the hills.</p> + +<p>Throwing the tomahawk was another favorite sport. This axe-like +weapon with its handle will make so many turns in a given +distance. With a little practice a boy soon learned to throw his +tomahawk and strike a tree as he walked through the forest.</p> + +<p>When a boy was twelve, he had his own small rifle and pouch +and was made a member of the fort. He was given a certain port +hole through which he took careful aim. He was often allowed +to go with older men on hunting trips if he had proved himself +worthy to be "among men."</p> + +<p>Dancing as we know it was unknown, but few ever enjoyed +anything more than those boys and girls did dancing their jigs +and reels. Their music was simple and singing was something +both old and young enjoyed to the fullest. Story-telling was an +art then, and year by year, old, old tales grew longer and longer +and Jack the hero, always conquered all the giants.</p> + +<p>There was witchcraft in the Valley too, and when a crow or +calf died or was sick, the owner often thought a witch had shot +it with a hair ball or with some kind of curse. When a man lost +his cunning in his once good aim, he was sure some one had put +a "spell" on him. Some actually believed men were changed into +horses and after being bridled, they were ridden all over the +countryside. Many men thought this was why their bones ached +and they felt too tired to work their farms.</p> + +<p>The men who did strange things were spoken of as wizards. +Some called them witch-masters, and these claimed they could +stop the mischievous work of the witches and cure baffling +diseases.</p> + +<p>When a child was born with a frail body, or developed rickets, +it was often thought to be caused by the spells of someone +unfriendly to the family.</p> + +<p>If one would get rid of the witch in his neighborhood a picture +of the supposed witch was drawn on a board or on a stump and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[Pg 49]</a></span> +shot at with a bullet which contained a bit of silver. This bullet, +if it struck the picture, was thought to put a spell on the witch.</p> + +<p>We may smile at the thought of those superstitions, but few of +us, if we are honest, will not admit that we have one pet superstition +just as foolish as those referred to above.</p> + +<p>Kercheval tells us how difficult it often was for the farmer +to retain all of his crops. There were so many animals, like the +squirrels and raccoons, which liked their grains. Storms would +come and huge trees would fall on their fences, letting their +horses and cattle get into the fields.</p> + +<p>He makes us realize how difficult it was to procure the necessities +of life. Where, for instance did they get the mills with +which to grind their grains, where the instruments with which +to make their farming implements and their household cooking +utensils? Who were their weavers, their shoemakers, tailors, tanners +and wagon makers? <a name="corr_5"></a><ins class="mycorr" title="Original: Af">Of</ins> course there were none, for each +farmer and his family had to rely on what they could do with +their own hands or what they could trade to some neighbor in +return for something done for him.</p> + +<p>The first mills or hominy blocks were made of wood. A block +of wood about three feet long was burned at one end, wide at +the mouth and narrow at the bottom, so that when the pestle hit +the corn it was thrown up and as it fell down to the bottom it was +mashed. Gradually, each grain of corn was ground to a like size. +When the corn was soft, as it was in the Fall, this grinding made +a fine meal for mush or "journey cake" as they called this form +of bread. However, this was slow work later on when corn +got hard.</p> + +<p>The farmer also used a different kind of mill. He used a sweep +made of springy wood, thirty feet or more long. This pole +was supported by two forks, placed about a third of its length +from its butt end where it was securely fastened to some firm +object. To this was attached a large mortise, a piece of sapling +five or six inches in diameter and eight or more long. The lower +end was shaped like a pestle and a pin of wood was put through it +at a proper height so two people could work the sweep at once.</p> + +<p>Kercheval says he remembers the one which he helped work +in his own home. It was made of a sugar-tree sapling and was +kept almost in constant use either by his own family or by the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[Pg 50]</a></span> +neighbors who came to use it. He says these sweeps were used +to make gunpowder from the saltpetre caves which the settlers +soon found.</p> + +<p>The women often used a grater for the corn when it was very +soft. This was made of a piece of tin, a few holes punched in +on one side and then nailed to a block of wood and the corn +scraped against it. This produced a form of corn-meal but was a +very tedious method. Another kind was a mill made of two +circular stones. The one on the bottom was called the bed stone +and the upper one the runner. These were placed in a hoop +with a spout for discharging the meal. A staff was let into the +hole in the upper surface of the runner near the outer edge and +its upper end through a hole in a board fastened to a joist above. +The grain was put into the runner by hand. This type of mill, +is one of the earliest ever known by man.</p> + +<p>Then every man tanned his own leather. The tan-vat was a +huge tub which was sunk into the ground. A quantity of bark +was quickly gotten each spring when the farmer cleared his land. +This was first dried then brought in and on rainy days, the bark +was stripped, shaved and pounded on a block of wood with an +ax or mallet. Ashes were used in place of lime for taking off the +hair from the skins of animals. They did not have fish-oil, so +the settlers substituted bear's grease, or lard made from boiling the +fat of these animals. This oil was used to make the leather +soft and pliable. The leather was often very coarse, but it was +tough and wore well. They made their blacking or polish for +their shoes by mixing soot with lard. Not every man could make +shoes, but everyone could make shoepacks, an article similar to +the moccasin.</p> + +<p>Kercheval's father was a master weaver as well as a fine shoe +maker. He made all the shoes worn by his family and would not +let anyone else make his thread, as he thought no woman could +spin it as well as he could. He made all the woodenware called +set work. He hand-carved some of them, making grooves in +which he fitted hoops to hold the staves in place. During the +days when every man had to serve in some military service, the +elder Kercheval was not strong enough to fight. The men brought +all their firearms to him and he repaired them. He could straighten +a crooked gun barrel with ease and file off any broken edges.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[Pg 51]</a></span></p> + +<p>Kercheval's father had been to school for only six weeks, yet +he read, worked hard problems in mathematics and wrote letters, +not only for himself, but for many of his friends. He drew up +bonds, deeds of conveyance and wrote other articles for them. He +taught his boy to use his hands, for Samuel tells that as a boy, +he wove garters, belts and shot pouches. He, too, could make +looms. He traded well, for he says he would swap a belt for a +man's labor for a day, or give one to a man for making a hundred +fence rails.</p> + +<p>An amusing custom developed among the German settlers +regarding their weddings. Young men and women, termed +"waiters," were selected to help officiate at a wedding. The +groomsmen were proud to wear highly embroidered white aprons +on such an occasion, for it was symbolic of protection to the bride. +Each waiter tried to keep the bride from having her slippers stolen +from her feet during the festivities. If she did sustain the loss +the young man had to pay for it with a bottle of wine, since the +bride's dancing depended upon its recovery.</p> + +<p>Characterized by their strong religious beliefs it was only +natural for the Scotch-Irish Presbyterians to build their churches +as they built their little homes. Opequon Church south of +Winchester is thought by many to be the oldest church in the +Valley. Not so with the Germans. They did not attempt to +build separate houses of worship for a generation or more after +coming to the new section but they did hold regular services in +the homes of the settlers and waited until a better time to erect +churches.</p> + +<p>There was an interesting custom among the Scotch-Irish at +their weddings, too. It was called "running for the bottle." +Usually the bride and groom went to the parson's home for the +marriage ceremony, attended by their friends on horseback. At +the conclusion of the ritual the young men took to their horses +and dashed for the bride's father's house. The man on the fleetest +horse was given a bottle of wine from which the returning bride +and groom first drank and then it was passed on to others. In +most instances the mad rush to the home was made in spite of +numerous trees and small brush which were cut down to serve as +obstacles in their paths.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[Pg 52]</a></span></p> + +<p>At Winchester these two distinct nationalities got along fairly +well together. An example of their friendly relations is to be seen +in their "War of the Guelphs and Ghibellines." The Dutch on +St. Patrick's Day would parade through the village streets with +effigies of St. Patrick wearing a necklace of Irish potatoes and +his wife carrying an apron full of them.</p> + +<p>And then on the day of St. Michael, the patron of the Dutch, +the Irish retaliated by holding aloft an effigy of the saint decorated +with a necklace of sourkrout.</p> + +<p>As was to be expected these frolics occasionally went to the +extreme and ended before the judge in the log cabin courthouse.</p> + +<p>It was hard for those early settlers to get such articles as salt, +iron, steel and casting. There were no stores where they could +purchase sugar, tea and hundreds of other necessities of today. +Pelts, furs or skins were their only money before they had time to +raise horses and cattle. In the Fall of the year, after all crops were +harvested, every settler's family formed an association with some +of their neighbors for starting a caravan.</p> + +<p>This consisted of two packhorses. A bell and collar was put on +each horse, as were a pair of hobbles made from hickory withes. +Bags were packed on the back of the saddles in which to bring +back two bushels of alum salt, each bushel weighing eighty-four +pounds. Each horse carried two bags on the return journey. +This was not such a heavy load for a horse but one must remember +the animal also had to carry its own food. Somewhere along +the narrow trail, some of this grain was hidden until the return +journey. Large pouches or bags were also carried in which were +loaves of home-baked bread or "Journey Cake," a mixture of +Indian meal and water baked on an iron skillet and boiled ham +and cheese.</p> + +<p>The men traded first in Baltimore, Hagerstown and Cumberland. +They also took along a cow and a calf, which was what +they paid for one bushel of the much needed salt. While the salt +was being weighed, no one was allowed to walk on the floor.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[Pg 53]</a></span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Woodstock" id="Woodstock"></a>Woodstock</h2> + + +<p>First called Muellerstadt after its founder Jacob Miller, Woodstock +was granted its charter in 1761 by the General Assembly of +Virginia. Miller was farsighted in his plans for the community +and provided adequate building sites for homes and businesses.</p> + +<p>The historian Kercheval tells an interesting account of the +appearance of Indians around Woodstock:</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>"In 1766, the Indians made a visit to the neighborhood of Woodstock. +Two men by the name of Sheetz and Taylor had taken their +wives and children into a wagon, and were on their way to the fort. +At the narrow passage, three miles south of Woodstock, five Indians +attacked them. The two men were killed at the first onset, and the +Indians rushed to seize the women and children. The women, instead +of swooning at the sight of their bleeding, expiring husbands, seized +their axes, and with Amazonian firmness, and strength almost superhuman, +defended themselves and children. One of the Indians had +succeeded in getting hold of one of Mrs. Sheetz's children, and +attempting to drag it out of the wagon; but with the quickness of +lightning she caught her child in one hand, and with the other made a +blow at the head of the fellow which caused him to quit his hold to +save his life. Several of the Indians received pretty sore wounds in +this desperate conflict, and all at last ran off, leaving the two women +with their children to pursue their way to the fort."</p></div> + +<p>When Lord Dunmore came to govern the colony of Virginia in +1772 the citizens passed a resolution endorsing his administration. +They requested that a new county be formed from Frederick +which would be called Dunmore County. Five years later, when +he began to have trouble with the colonists the people of Woodstock +instructed their burgess to get the name of their county +changed to Shenandoah. This name is retained to the present +time.</p> + +<p>About six miles from Woodstock a Mr. Wolfe erected a fort on +Stony Creek years and years ago. He had a fine hunting dog and +at the time of our story Indians were lurking in the neighborhood. +This was during the period when the savages were endeavoring to +rid the Valley of the white men.</p> + +<p>Mr. Wolfe went out hunting one morning and had not gone +far before his dog began to run around and around him, blocking +his path. Then he jumped up in front of his master, put his feet<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[Pg 54]</a></span> +on his shoulders and seemed to try to stop Wolfe's progress. +When the dog found he could not stop his master he ran back +towards the fort, then back to his master, all the time whining +a warning.</p> + +<p>The hunter suspected some danger, so he kept his hand on his +gun and watched out for Indians. He soon saw two of them +behind a tree. Evidently they were waiting for their man to +come close enough for them to get a good shot at him. Mr. +Wolfe began to walk backward, making a rapid retreat to the fort. +Long afterwards someone asked Mr. Wolfe why he did not kill +the old dog since his years of usefulness were over and he was +apparently uncomfortable. He told the inquirer the story of how +the animal had saved his life and added, "I would sooner be +killed myself than suffer that dog to be killed."</p> + +<p>"There is a time to every purpose under the heaven—a time of +war and a time of peace." So spoke one of Woodstock's most +famous sons, the Reverend John Peter Gabriel Muhlenberg, in +the Lutheran Church one Sunday morning after the Declaration +of Independence had been issued. After delivering an inspired +sermon taken from this text in which he reviewed his stand on +liberty, he dramatically cast off his black pulpit robes and revealed +to his astonished congregation his colonel's uniform of +the Revolutionary army. He was about thirty years old then and +had served the Woodstock flock for four years.</p> + +<p>Dr. Wayland in his book <i>The German Element in the Shenandoah +Valley of Virginia</i>, suggests that the Rev. Mr. Muhlenberg +was associated with the Episcopal as well as the Lutheran church +and that "he seems beyond question to have received Episcopal +ordination.... His connection with the Church of England was +probably sought in order that his work as a clergyman might +receive the readier and fuller sanction."</p> + +<p>Almost immediately after preaching his patriotic sermon he +raised a regiment among the Valley folk. Known as the Eighth +Virginia, or German Regiment, they saw hard service at Germantown, +Brandywine and Monmouth as well as in some of the +southern battlefields.</p> + +<p>Before the close of the war Muhlenberg was made a brigadier-general +and after his retirement he lived in Pennsylvania, his +original home before coming to the Valley of Virginia.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[Pg 55]</a></span></p> + +<p>A movement is under way at the present time to restore the +little church of the Lutheran faith where the colonel made his +firey sermon. Let us hope this may be accomplished so that we +may catch the inspiration of his remarks.</p> + +<p>Woodstock saw the march of many feet during the War +Between the States; almost constantly were the troops passing +by, causing fields to be laid waste, crops to be confiscated and +stock to be carried off. But the little town conceals her war scars +well and today is a progressive community.</p> + +<p>Massanutten Academy is located here and draws boys from all +over Virginia and a number of other States.</p> + + +<h3><span class="smcap">The Lincoln Family</span></h3> + +<p>Contrary to popular belief, President Lincoln's forebears were +not poor and shiftless, but were influential and prosperous Virginians +who lived in the handsome old brick Colonial home +which, in a fine state of preservation, is still standing, with the +Lincoln family cemetery and slave burying-ground nearby.</p> + +<p>The Lincoln homestead is near the little village of Edom, not +far from the Caverns of Melrose, and can be reached by turning +west from U. S. Highway 11 at these caverns, six miles north of +Harrisonburg. Visitors are welcome at this homestead. Exact +directions as to how to reach it can be obtained in the Melrose +Cavern's Lodge.</p> + +<p>Thomas Lincoln, father of President Lincoln, was born in this +house. John Lincoln, great-grandfather of the President, moved +with his family into Virginia in 1768 where, as an influential +pioneer, he built the first brick unit of the beautiful Colonial +home.</p> + +<p>John Lincoln was known as "Virginia John." Abraham Lincoln, +his eldest son and grandfather of the President, lived in +this homestead and was captain of a Virginia company during +the Revolution.</p> + +<p>Captain Abraham Lincoln, with his son Thomas (father of the +President) moved to Kentucky in 1782, leaving Jacob Lincoln, a +brother of Captain Lincoln, in the Virginia homestead. Many +Lincolns, descendants of Jacob and other sons and daughters of +"Virginia John," now live near Melrose Caverns, in Harrisonburg +and elsewhere in Rockingham county.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[Pg 56]</a></span></p> + +<p>On February 24th, 1829, when Melrose Caverns were known as +"Harrison's Cave," Franklin Lincoln, grandson of Jacob and a +cousin of President Lincoln, entered the caverns and, by the light +of torches or candles, carved his name and the date. He later +fought in the Civil War as a Confederate soldier.</p> + +<p>Also in these caverns is carved the name of John Lincoln, +possibly John Lincoln, Jr., who was one of Jacob's four brothers, +or perhaps "Virginia John" the pioneer, great-grandfather of the +President. There is no date carved by the name of John Lincoln.</p> + +<p>In April, 1862, during the Civil War, a Federal soldier drew a +rough portrait of President Lincoln with charcoal upon a wall +farther back in the caverns. These Lincoln signatures and this +crude portrait can be distinctly seen in Melrose Caverns by +visitors today.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="New_Market" id="New_Market"></a>New Market</h2> + + +<p>A little later in becoming settled than other Valley towns was +New Market, the progressive little place situated at the intersection +of the Valley Pike and Route 211 to Luray. Its charter +was granted in 1785 as the result of efforts made by Peter Palsel, +an early settler.</p> + +<p>Thomas Jefferson's father, Peter Jefferson, was among the party +of surveyors who ran the land grant boundary for the Proprietor +of the Northern Neck, Lord Fairfax. This was done in 1746. +The old line is a short distance south of New Market.</p> + +<p>The town was the scene in 1864 of the battle in which the +young and inexperienced but dauntless cadets from the Virginia +Military Institute at Lexington took such prominent part. The +wounded from their ranks were cared for by devoted women in +nearby houses. And what a percentage there was either wounded +or killed! Forty-six of the former and eight of the latter out of a +corps of only two hundred and twenty-one!</p> + +<p>New Market is the center today of the caverns in the Valley, +for Shenandoah Caverns are to the north and Endless to the +south, while within a short drive you may reach Luray, Massanutten, +Melrose and Grand Caverns. Accommodations for the +tourists are numerous and fair throughout the vicinity.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[Pg 57]</a></span></p> + +<p>Several years ago a re-enactment of the Battle of New Market +occurred in which the corps from the Virginia Military Institute +pitted their strength against the United States Marines. Among +the spectators to this stirring War Between the States encounter +was the Secretary of the Navy.</p> + +<p>He was impressed with the majesty of the Shenandoah Valley +and the legend of the name. Later he determined to name the +new navy dirigible Shenandoah—"The Daughter of the Stars." +For her christening a bottle of water from the meandering Shenandoah +River was used. And on her maiden flight from her berth +at Lakehurst the graceful ship flew over the lovely, peaceful +Valley from whence came her name.</p> + + +<h3><span class="smcap">Endless Caverns</span></h3> + +<p>On the first of October, 1879 two boys went hunting. Their +dog chased a rabbit up the long slope of Mr. Reuben Zirkle's +pasture. The rabbit ran for his life and disappeared over a huge +rock.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/illus-065.jpg" width="600" height="449" alt=""The Cypress Gardens", a Scene in Endless Caverns" title=""The Cypress Gardens", a Scene in Endless Caverns" /> +<p class="caption">"The Cypress Gardens", a Scene in Endless Caverns</p> +</div> +<p>The boys gave chase and boy-like, when they reached the rock +and found no rabbit, they pushed aside the heavy stone. Imagine<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[Pg 58]</a></span> +how their eyes bulged when they looked down into a great hole +in the hill. Here was a find! Here was adventure, for who can +resist exploring a cave? The boys thought no longer of the rabbit. +They went in search of candles and a rope. Soon they were seeing +for the first time the lovely and strange kingdom underground.</p> + +<p>The boys, no doubt like visitors, wondered how Nature had +carved these miracles. Today science has answered the question +for us and for the sake of those inquiring minds we will give in +part the story of how Mother Nature builds her caves.</p> + +<p>"Thousands and thousands of years of surface waters, seeping +down through the earth, have dissolved and carried away the +limestone rock through various tiny cracks and crevices. As each +drop worked its way downward it carried coloring matter—iron, +maybe copper, which tints the beautiful columns. Tiny bits of +limestone formed and gradually built them up from the bottom; +these are called stalagmites. Others slowly forming from the tops +of the cave hung there and are termed stalactites. Then through +the years these grew until they met and formed the arches and +columns."</p> + +<p>Though explorations were carried on for several years no end to +the rooms was seen. One channel after another was found, and +one room after another came into view, hence the name Endless +Caverns.</p> + +<p>People from far and near came to see the wonders, and dances +were held in Alexander's Ballroom. The musicians had a high +rock on which they played their fiddles. Huge iron circles were +fastened to the ceiling and candles placed in them for lights. +One night one of the bold boys took a candle and pushed farther +into the cave. By the weird light he saw a glistening lake, +sparkling like diamonds. Upon investigation it turned out to be +a pool of clearest water and it reflected the white glittering crystal +roof which sheltered it. The name "Diamond Lake" was given it +and it has been admired by thousands of visitors.</p> + +<p>Then for thirty years the beautiful caverns were closed to the +public. A party of visitors came to the Valley. Colonel Edward +Brown who stopped in New Market was fascinated with the +stories of the old caverns. He bought the property and the next +year the caverns were opened—in 1920. Today his son, Major +E. M. Brown, is the progressive owner.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[Pg 59]</a></span></p> + +<p>"The old entrance house has been replaced by a unique cave +house built of limestone boulders from the mountain side. Great +gates of hand-wrought iron bar the head of the stone steps which +lead downward. A lone lantern hangs from the arch of the stone +roof and accurately placed, at the exact center of the top of the +entrance, is a huge boulder in the shape of a keystone, set there by +the Architect of all the earth many thousands of years ago."</p> + +<p>No one can describe the beautiful shapes and designs to be +found in the caverns. They must be seen to be appreciated fully +and no matter how many caves one has seen, he will not regret +the magic time spent here.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Luray" id="Luray"></a>Luray</h2> + + +<p>The question is often asked as to the origin of the unusual +name of the town of Luray. Legend disagrees as to its derivation. +There are some who claim it came from the name of an early +settler, Lewis Ramey. He was familiarly known as Lew Ramey +and the contraction Lew Ray might have followed naturally. +The site of Ramey's little log cabin is at the corner of Main and +Court streets.</p> + +<p>Some citizens of the town insist that the Huguenots who escaped +from France and finally migrated to the Valley named the new +settlement Lorraine after their province in France and that Luray +is a corruption of the former name.</p> + +<p>There are reminders near this town of former years of struggle. +During the French and Indian War the settlers decided upon +building "cellar forts" for protection against Indian raids. These +cellars dug under the log homes were large enough for living +quarters and were generally supplied with a spring of water. +They were so constructed with rocks serving as a ceiling that +even in case of fire in the house proper, the occupants of the +cellar would be unhurt. Several of these ingenious little fortifications +remain in Page County, Rhodes Fort and the Egypt House +being good examples of them.</p> + +<p>In the Hawksbill neighborhood, not far from Luray, there +lived a long time ago John Stone and his family. In 1758 the +Indians came to his home while he was away. They had little<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[Pg 60]</a></span> +difficulty in carrying off Mrs. Stone and her baby, a son about +eight years old and another boy, George Grandstaff, who was +sixteen.</p> + +<p>The marauders sacked other residences in the neighborhood and +killed a number of persons. It is possible that when they set out +for their own settlements some distance off they found Mrs. +Stone's progress impeded because of carrying the baby. At any +rate, they murdered those two and continued on their way with +the boys.</p> + +<p>Three years later Grandstaff escaped as their prisoner and +returned to Mr. Stone. Young Stone remained with the savages +for a number of years and when he did come home he sold his +father's property and with the money in his pockets he went +back to the Indian village. No one ever heard of him afterwards.</p> + +<p>Luray was laid out in 1812 by William Staige Marye, son of +Peter Marye, who built the first turnpike—a toll-road—to cross +the Blue Ridge from Culpeper into the Shenandoah Valley. Near +Luray is the <a name="corr_6"></a><ins class="mycorr" title="Original: Saltpeper">Saltpetre</ins> Cave. During the War Between the States +the Confederates established a nitrate plant there and used the +products in their manufacture of ammunition.</p> + +<p>One of the most beautiful drives in Virginia is that leaving +Luray, crossing the mountain and entering the Valley Pike at +New Market.</p> + +<p>Of particular importance to this section are the Luray Caverns. +An entertaining history is attached to them. As far back as 1793 +there was knowledge of the existence of the caves, for Joseph +Ruffner's son had explored several passages just about this time. +Ruffner's property took on the name of Cave Hill.</p> + +<p>The Ruffners were among the largest landowners in the Valley, +their property extending twelve miles on both sides of Hawksbill +Creek. They received a part of the land through inheritance and +bought other tracts. Dr. Henry Ruffner, a member of this distinguished +family, was at one time President of Washington +College, now Washington and Lee University at Lexington.</p> + +<p>Fighting during the War Between the States occurred near the +town of Luray and about two miles south on the Lee Highway +there is an old oak tree which marks the place where Sheridan's +famous Valley ride was halted for a time.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[Pg 61]</a></span></p> + +<p>There are interesting landmarks remaining in the town today +which have witnessed the pageant of history, among the most +pretentious being "Aventine." This home originally occupied the +present site of the Mymslyn Hotel.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Stonewall_Jacksons_Valley_Campaign" id="Stonewall_Jacksons_Valley_Campaign"></a>Stonewall Jackson's Valley Campaign</h2> + + +<p>Too much space must not be consumed in this book in presenting +the facts regarding Jackson's Valley Campaign. We feel +justified in devoting more than a comment to this notable feat of +war, however, for some of the heaviest fighting of the four years' +conflict took place on the land you may see in driving over the +Valley Pike and along the Skyline Drive.</p> + +<p>At the outbreak of hostilities in the War Between the States +Thomas Jackson left the chair of higher mathematics at the Virginia +Military Institute and volunteered his services in the Virginia +army. Educated at West Point and trained during the +Mexican War he was a welcome addition to the Confederate +forces, although no one anticipated the <a name="corr_7"></a><ins class="mycorr" title="Original: conspicious">conspicuous</ins> rôle he would +play in the subsequent events. At the early battle of First Manassas +he earned the name of "Stonewall" because of his quiet, +dignified and unafraid manner in the face of danger.</p> + +<p>Lt. Col. C. F. R. Henderson's invaluable two volumes, <i>Stonewall +Jackson and the American Civil War</i>, were consulted and are +the source quoted hereafter in giving the account of the Valley +warfare. The First Brigade of the Virginia army was recruited +from the Valley and participated under Jackson in the first battle +of Manassas and for a long period of time thereafter.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>"No better material for soldiers ever existed," said Henderson, +"than the men of the Valley. Most of them were of Scotch-Irish +descent, but from the more northern counties came many of English +blood, and from those in the center of Swiss and German. But whatever +their origin, they were thoroughly well qualified for their new +trade. All classes mingled in the ranks, and all ages; the heirs of the +oldest families, and the humblest of the sons of toil; boys whom it was +impossible to keep in school, and men whose white beards hung below +their cross belts; youths who had been reared in luxury, and rough +hunters from their lonely cabins. They were a mountain people, nurtured +in a wholesome climate bred to manly sports, and hardened by +the free life of the field and forest. To social distinctions they gave +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[Pg 62]</a></span>little heed. They were united for a common purpose; they had taken +arms to defend Virginia and to maintain her rights; and their +patriotism was proved by the sacrifice of all personal consideration and +individual interest."</p></div> + +<p>After the first battle of Manassas the First Brigade was known +as the "Stonewall Brigade."</p> + +<p>From July to November, 1861, Jackson spent the greater part +of every day drilling the men under him and in trying to convert +them into well-disciplined, obedient troops. During the first +week in November he was sent from Manassas to command the +Shenandoah Valley district and this meant parting from the +soldiers whom he had reason to admire and who in turn held +him in highest esteem. A short time later they were destined to +reunite under circumstances which would try the courage of the +brigade and commander. To the delight of all, the Stonewall +Brigade was assigned to Winchester soon after Jackson established +his headquarters there and for the next few months rigid training +was given them again.</p> + +<p>About the middle of March 1862, Jackson abandoned Winchester. +This was after some of the Union concentration near Manassas +and Centreville was broken up and General Banks made no +move to offer battle, so the Confederates withdrew without a +fight and occupied Strasburg eighteen or twenty miles southward. +The evacuation of Winchester was made reluctantly, for good +roads in each direction connected the city with outlying districts, +fertile farms nearby could furnish the invading army with rations +and Banks could receive from or send troops to West Virginia +or the army south of Washington. Feeling that Jackson's small +force was not of any special danger, Shields' corps was sent in +pursuit of the Confederates and most of Banks' troops were +ordered to another field. Jackson continued up the Valley and +stopped at Mount Jackson, hoping the Federals would follow.</p> + +<p>The Confederate general learned from Ashby, his cavalry +commander, that the enemy was retreating. It was Lee's intention +that the Union corps in the Valley be retained there so that +assistance could not be offered McClellan, the Northern general +who was maneuvering in the eastern part of Virginia with the +ultimate aim of striking Richmond. McClellan hoped to attack +the capital of the Confederacy by combining his army with that<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[Pg 63]</a></span> +of McDowell, whom he could call to the area of war when necessary. +So it was to be Jackson's duty to keep them in the Valley +and perhaps to withdraw some of the Northern troops from +near Richmond.</p> + +<p>On March 22nd Ashby with his troopers and a few guns engaged +Shields in a skirmish just south of Winchester. He believed +there was only a small force of Federals present, so well had +Shields hidden his men, and he reported to Jackson that the +troops were small in number. The next day Jackson sent reinforcements +to Ashby and then followed later with his whole +force in the direction of Kernstown which is south of Winchester +and but a short distance off. There the battle of Kernstown +began and continued until dark. Jackson's troops were defeated +and retreated southward. As a result of this encounter Shields +was reinforced and the strong Union force remained in the Valley.</p> + +<p>The Federal generals were apparently satisfied with the victory +and in spite of urgings from the Secretary of War, Stanton, to +pursue Jackson they remained inactive for nearly a month.</p> + +<p>Banks assumed the offensive on April 17th, and surprised +Ashby, taking one of his companies prisoner. The Virginians +burned the railroad station at Mount Jackson and fell back while +the Union cavalry established themselves at New Market.</p> + +<p>The Confederate General Ewell had a force of 8,000 men on +the Upper Rappahannock which is some distance east of the mountains. +This corps was left at its location in order to rush to the +defense of Fredericksburg or Richmond or across the mountains +to the Valley. Jackson knew that he must not allow Banks to +control the mountain pass, thus severing communication between +the two Confederate forces. He determined upon a forced march +for his men and on the eighteenth they reached Harrisonburg. +He continued over to Swift Run Gap and encamped near there.</p> + +<p>Banks followed his cavalry to New Market, crossed over to +Luray and seized the bridges, driving back a detachment of +Jackson's men sent there to defend them. Later he sent two of +his five brigades to Harrisonburg and the rest stayed at New +Market.</p> + +<p>Jackson's next move was to McDowell, a town about twenty-seven +miles northwest of Harrisonburg. The march was made in +the most circuitous manner: from Swift Run Gap to Port Repub<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[Pg 64]</a></span>lic, +to Brown's Gap which is about twelve miles southeast of +their camp at Elk Run Valley, to Staunton and then west to +McDowell. This strategy was used so that he might deceive +Banks, Fremont and Milroy, the Federal commanders in and near +the Valley, into thinking for a while that he was leaving the +Valley to join forces at Richmond. Jackson proposed to strike +each Union force located in this section of Virginia but he believed +an encounter with Milroy commanding the weakest corps +should be made before attacking Banks. The Battle of McDowell +occurred on May 8th, and was a victory for Jackson. He followed +the enemy in their retreat as far as Franklin. A squadron of +Ashby's cavalry spent much time in blocking any of the passes +which Fremont might use in crossing the mountains to reinforce +Banks. Bridges were burned and rocks and trees were placed +across the roadways. Jackson's object was thus thoroughly +achieved:</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>"All combination between the Federal columns, except by long +and devious routes, had now been rendered impracticable; and there +was little fear that in any operations down the Valley his own communications +would be endangered. The McDowell expedition had +neutralized, for the time being, Fremont's 20,000 men; and Banks was +now isolated, exposed to the combined attack of Jackson, Ewell and +Edward Johnson."</p></div> + +<p>Ewell in the meantime had left his post near Gordonsville and +had moved into Swift Run Gap in order to go to Jackson if +necessary. After the Battle of McDowell, Jackson returned to the +Valley. Lee ordered him to make a movement against Banks as +speedily as possible, to drive him towards Washington and appear +ready to attack the Union capital. Thus he hoped to see some of +the Northerners leave the vicinity of Richmond and return to +defend their capital.</p> + +<p>Jackson entered the Valley at Mount Solon and pushed northward +at once. Banks erected earthworks at Strasburg and considered +himself well entrenched against the enemy. Ewell, with +his Confederates, left Swift Run Gap and moved to Luray. Jackson +moved north to New Market. The Confederates now organized +into two divisions, Jackson's and Ewell's, numbering about +17,000 men. The troops under Jackson instead of continuing +northward in their march turned east and crossed the Massanutten<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[Pg 65]</a></span> +Mountain and headed north. On May 22nd the advanced guard +camped within ten miles of Front Royal. This town was "held +by a strong detachment of Banks' small army."</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>"Since they had left Mount Solon and Elk Run Valley on May +19th the troops in four days had made just sixty miles. Such celerity +of movement was unfamiliar to both Banks and Stanton, and on the +night of the 22nd neither the Secretary nor the General had the +faintest suspicion that the enemy had as yet passed Harrisonburg.... +There was serenity at Washington.... The Secretary, ... saw no +reason for alarm. His strategical combinations were apparently working +without a hitch.... Milroy's defeat was considered no more than +an incident of 'la petite guerre'. Washington seemed so perfectly +secure that the recruiting offices had been closed, and the President and +Secretary, anticipating the immediate fall of Richmond, left for Fredericksburg +the next day. McDowell was to march on the 26th, and the +departure of his fine army was to be preceded by a grand review....</p> + +<p>"So on this night of May 22nd the President and his people were +without fear of what the morrow might bring forth. The end of the +rebellion seemed near at hand. Washington was full of the anticipated +triumph. The crowds passed to and fro exchanging congratulations on +the success of the Northern arms and the approaching downfall of the +slaveholders.... Little dreamt the light-hearted multitude that, in the +silent woods of the Luray Valley, a Confederate army lay asleep beneath +the stars. Little dreamt Lincoln, or Banks, or Stanton, that not +more than seventy miles from Washington, and less than thirty from +Strasburg, the most daring of the enemies, waiting for the dawn to +rise above the mountains was pouring out his soul in prayer."</p></div> + +<p>Banks' 10,000 men were distributed in this manner: at Strasburg +the largest contingent, at Winchester a small group of +infantry and cavalry, with two companies of infantry at Newtown, +midway between Strasburg and Front Royal. At Rectortown, +nineteen miles east of Front Royal was General Geary with +2,000 infantry and cavalry independent of Banks. Front Royal +was held by Colonel Kenly of the First Maryland Regiment, +U. S. A. On the morning of May 23rd the Confederates struck +Kenly's small force. Every line of communication and reinforcement +had been severed during the previous night and "within an +hour after his pickets were surprised Kenly was completely +isolated."</p> + +<p>Banks moved north from Strasburg towards Winchester before +Jackson could scatter his troops along the route and cut off his<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[Pg 66]</a></span> +retreat. Encounters took place at Newtown and Middletown and +Kernstown during the early morning of May 24th. The battle of +Winchester occurred the following day. Particularly hard fighting +was done by both sides, but the surprise movements of Jackson +during the past few days, the partial demoralization of the Union +forces and the keen fighting of the Confederate divisions drove +Banks' army from Winchester and on to Martinsburg.</p> + +<p>Lee sent instructions to Jackson to threaten an invasion of +Maryland and an attack upon Washington at this excellent time. +So on the 28th the Stonewall Brigade set out towards Harper's +Ferry and at Charlestown they met a Federal force, routing them +within twenty minutes. Ewell came up to support the Brigade +and on the 29th the army of the Valley was encamped near +Halltown. The greater part of the Federals crossed the Potomac +River at Harper's Ferry. Jackson, however, learned that the +Union soldiers were advancing to cut off his retreat; Shields' +division was approaching Manassas Gap and Fremont had left +Franklin and was about ten miles from Moorefield. Jackson felt +that Lee's orders had been carried out and decided to retreat +along the Valley Pike. The Southerners turned southward towards +Winchester. En route Jackson found out that the small force +left at Front Royal had been driven back and that Shields occupied +the town. The Valley army was ordered to Strasburg, the +First Brigade was called back from Charlestown, the prisoners +and supplies were picked up at Winchester and moved southward. +"From the morning of May 19 to the night of June 1, a +period of fourteen days, the Army of the Valley had marched +one hundred and seventy miles, had routed a force of 12,500 men, +had threatened the North with invasions, had drawn off McDowell +from Fredericksburg, had seized the hospitals and supply +depots at Front Royal, Winchester, and Martinsburg, and finally, +although surrounded on three sides by 60,000 men, had brought +off a huge convoy without losing a single wagon."</p> + +<p>When the Federals learned that Jackson had moved south +Shields was sent towards Luray from Front Royal. Fremont +moved towards Woodstock. The Federal cavalry reached Luray +on June 2nd and found that the enemy had already been there and +burned the bridges, thus cutting off their approach to New +Market. A part of the Confederates were repulsed on June 2nd<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[Pg 67]</a></span> +between Strasburg and Woodstock and the skirmishing continued +the next day with the Confederates retreating to Mount Jackson +and burning the bridges over the North Fork of the Shenandoah +River. The Union troops tried to construct their pontoons across +the stream but a driving rain and high waters prevented their +doing so. This failure gave the rebels a day's respite.</p> + +<p>Jackson with his force passed from Harrisonburg over to Cross +Keys and there bivouacked. The Northern generals looked upon +this move as a retreat.</p> + +<p>On June 8th and 9th the battles of Cross Keys and Port Republic +took place, victories for the Southerners. The Confederates +moved on to Brown's Gap, a point a bit nearer Richmond. "The +success which the Confederates had achieved was undoubtedly +important. The Valley army, posted at Brown's Gap, was now in +direct communication with Richmond. Not only had its pursuers +been roughly checked, but the sudden and unexpected counter-stroke, +delivered by an enemy whom they believed to be in full +flight, had surprised Lincoln and Stanton as effectively as Shields +and Fremont."</p> + +<p>Thus the plan of McClellan to fall upon Richmond had been +postponed and a division of the Northern forces was made necessary +to protect the Federal capital and to supply Banks with troops.</p> + +<p>Later in the month Jackson's division moved with great secrecy +to join General Lee near Richmond—but that is a story for +another time.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Belle_Boyd_the_Spy" id="Belle_Boyd_the_Spy"></a>Belle Boyd, the Spy</h2> + + +<p>"In a pretty storied house, the walls completely covered by roses +and honeysuckle in luxuriant bloom" according to Belle Boyd +herself, lived one of the most beautiful women and one of the +most famous spies in all history.</p> + +<p>Martinsburg, her home in the beautiful Shenandoah Valley, +was only a village then and she tells us about her neighbors and +her childhood—"It was all golden and I was surrounded by +devoted and beloved parents and brothers and sisters ... our +neighbors are some of the best families of the Old Dominion +descended from such ancestors as the Fairfaxes and Washingtons."<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[Pg 68]</a></span></p> + +<p>When Belle was only twelve she was sent to Mount Washington +Seminary in Washington. At sixteen her education was +finished and she made her début. She wrote how brilliant were +the Congressional and Senate balls where both Northern and +Southern belles met and learned to love each other as sisters.</p> + +<p>Then came the dark days of Secession. Belle's own father was +among the first to enlist in the defense of Virginia. Belle returned +home where with other ladies she helped raise funds with +which to equip the Confederate soldiers. The colors were raised +and on them one read these words, "Our God, Our Country and +Our Women."</p> + +<p>Things were dull for Belle after her father and the boys +marched away to Harper's Ferry. Soon she went to visit them +where she enjoyed the social life until messages came saying the +Federal troops were approaching. She was sent home and scarcely +had she arrived before the Southern troops withdrew to Falling +Waters, near her home. She heard the distant boom of cannon +and quickly there followed the battle of Martinsburg. After a +skirmish of five hours, Belle saw General Jackson's troops retreat.</p> + +<p>Hard upon them were the Federals entering the village with +flags flying and the fifes playing the now despised "Yankee +Doodle."</p> + +<p>Dawned the Fourth of July and Belle woke to see the Yankee +flags flying from many homes. She heard the drunken soldiers as +they planned to force their way into homes whose doors and +blinds were shut tight. Blows began to batter down doors and +those of the Boyd home were splintered as well as those of their +neighbors.</p> + +<p>Some one had told the Federals that the walls of Belle's room +were covered with rebel flags. But though they searched none +were found. Belle's Negro maid had taken them down and carefully +hidden them. The soldiers were furious and began to break +furniture, glass ornaments, and abuse the Virginia sympathizers. +Then they went out and began to raise the United States flag over +the Boyd home. This was more than Mrs. Boyd could stand, so +she spoke: "Men, every member of my household will die before +that flag shall be raised over us." Let us read Belle's account of +what followed:<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[Pg 69]</a></span></p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>"Upon this, one of the soldiers, thrusting himself forward addressed +my mother in language so offensive as it is impossible to conceive. +I could stand it no longer, my indignation was aroused beyond control, +my blood was literally boiling in my veins, I drew out my pistol and +shot him. He was carried away mortally wounded and soon after he +expired."</p></div> + +<p>Then the Boyd home was set on fire, but it was hastily put out. +The Northern commander quickly arrived and an investigation +followed. After a long and lengthy trial, during which time the +Boyd home was guarded by sentries, the officer declared Belle +had acted as any normal person would have under similar +circumstances.</p> + +<p>From this time on, Belle gave herself to the Confederate Cause. +She met and charmed the Federal officers. She remembered their +names and got them to tell her their plans. These Belle carefully +wrote down and sent to General J. E. B. Stuart. Soon she was +under suspicion and one of her letters was seized by the enemy. +She was sent for, arrested and asked if she had written the letter. +She acknowledged it, was rebuked and the Articles of War regarding +such deeds were read to her. Again a trial—and a +dismissal.</p> + +<p>Belle was undaunted. She not only continued to pick up +valuable information, but she picked up small side arms and +pistols and these, along with the information, found their way into +the Southern lines.</p> + +<p>While on a visit to Front Royal the first battle of Manassas +was fought. The wounded were rushed into Front Royal and +Belle found herself the matron of the large hospital. Soldiers +told how she worked night and day, tirelessly giving of herself +to comfort and help "the boys." After eight weeks of such a +strenuous life, Belle had to go home for a much needed rest.</p> + +<p>Before her mother thought she was strong enough, Belle left +to visit her father who was stationed at Manassas. Soon she was +riding as a courier back and forth for General Jackson and General +Beauregard.</p> + +<p>On one occasion Belle was in Front Royal waiting for an +opportunity to go to Richmond where her family had gone. She +had secured passes from some of her Federal friends and she was +staying in the same house in which General Shields was stopping.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[Pg 70]</a></span> +Belle's room was over the living-room where the officers were +making plans. A small hole in the closet floor gave her a good +view of the men—and served to let her hear every word of their +next maneuvers. Belle listened until one o'clock, writing down in +cypher each plan. Then she carefully stole down the back steps, +saddled a horse in the backyard and was off, fifteen miles, to +carry the message.</p> + +<p>Twice she was held up by Federal sentinels and twice she +showed them Federal passes. She arrived safely back in Front +Royal before day, as fresh as a "morning flower."</p> + +<p>We cannot give all of her escapades or her narrow escapes. +Once she sped through Front Royal with a message for General +Jackson, her white sun bonnet and white apron against a blue +dress making her a target for the Federals. Several times she felt +bullets tear her wide billowing skirt, but she kept on until she +had reached the General—giving him the position of the enemy: +General Banks, at Strasburg with 4,000 troops, General White +marching to Winchester and General Fremont approaching the +Valley—all planning to "bottle up" Jackson's force.</p> + +<p>Quickly the Confederates made plans which resulted in victory +and General Jackson wrote her, "Miss Belle Boyd—I thank you +for myself and for the Army for the immense service that you +have rendered your country this day. Hastily your friend, T. J. +Jackson, C. S. A."</p> + +<p>Romance like danger courted her wherever she was. Finally in +1864 she decided to go to England. President Davis gave her +important papers for Southern sympathizers there. She sailed +from Wilmington, North Carolina, aboard the "Greyhound." +Vivid pictures are given of the crew throwing overboard bales of +cotton, but even this did not enable the ship to outrun the fast +Union vessels. Captain Bier also dropped a keg of money, over +thirty thousand dollars in gold, in order to lighten the cargo. +When Belle saw they could not avoid capture she destroyed her +dispatch and managed to put into a belt many gold dollars which +belonged to her and the captain of the boat. Let us read her +description of the Federal officer who said he must take over +command of the "Greyhound":<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[Pg 71]</a></span></p> + +<p>"I confess my attention was riveted by a gentleman—the first +whom I had met in my hour of distress. His dark brown hair +hung down on his shoulders, his eyes were large and bright. +Those who judge beauty by regularity of feature would not +only have pronounced him strictly handsome, but the fascination +of his manner was such that my heart yielded." He begged Belle +to consider herself still a passenger, rather than a prisoner, which +evidently she did.</p> + +<p>There was a moon, a soft breeze "which swept the surface of +the ocean until it was like a vast bed of sparkling diamonds." +Lieutenant Hardinge, the Federal officer, quoted poetry from +Shakespeare and Byron and before the vessel reached Boston, +Belle had given her heart and her promise to marry the lieutenant.</p> + +<p>While their own course of true love seemed to run smoothly +enough various forces concentrated to keep them apart.</p> + +<p>First of all, soon after arriving in Boston Captain Bier escaped. +And while Belle took the credit for that, Lieutenant Hardinge +was under suspicion. Besides, while Belle was being treated +courteously in Boston her betrothed had gone to Washington in +her behalf. The newspapers of the day flaunted the stories of +the beautiful Rebel Spy and everywhere she went great crowds +pushed themselves upon her.</p> + +<p>When Hardinge reached Washington he begged Gideon +Welles, Secretary of the Navy, permission for Miss Boyd to visit +Canada. This was granted and a telegram ordered an escort for +her and her maid. However, notice was given her that if she +were caught again in the United States she would be shot.</p> + +<p>Her lover was captured next and arrested for aiding Captain +Bier in escaping. Finally, he went to Paris in search of the +beautiful woman who had promised to marry him. After some +time Belle, who was in Liverpool, learned where he was. She +wrote to him and they met in London; they were married in St. +James' Church. There was a large and brilliant breakfast at +which a huge wedding cake was cut. Lieutenant Hardinge promised +to run the blockade and carry pieces of wedding cake to his +wife's friends. This he did when he arrived in Wilmington. +Later he was arrested in Baltimore, charged with being a deserter +and was sent to prison.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[Pg 72]</a></span></p> + +<p>Belle interested herself in his behalf and we are told that her +charms and the termination of the war secured his release. And +so they lived happily ever after!</p> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + +<p>In the foregoing account of the fearless work done by Belle +Boyd and of her visit to Front Royal during the Battle of +Manassas we are reminded of an inhabitant of the latter place, a +Mr. McLean. Rumor has it that the gentleman resided so close +to the scene of battle—and it was a bloody encounter—he resolved +to quit the place for a quieter section of Virginia. He +had a distinct distaste for battles and bloodshed. So he moved +his family to Appomattox County in Virginia and watched the +scene of war with a feeling of comparative safety. The reader +has guessed the rest of the story.</p> + +<p>A little previous to April 9th, 1865 the Union and Confederate +forces met at a spot not far from the courthouse and negotiations +were started for the surrender of General Lee, in command of +the Confederates. And on the ninth the surrender was made at +the McLean house which marked the cessation of war in Virginia. +Poor Mr. McLean was present at the beginning and +conclusion of the fighting!</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Harrisonburg" id="Harrisonburg"></a>Harrisonburg</h2> + + +<p>Harrisonburg is called the Friendly City and its people are +noted for their hospitality. It is near famous caverns and historic +battlefields. It was named in honor of Thomas Harrison who had +fifty acres of his land surveyed and laid out into lots and streets. +It might also be called the center of a large German element +whose forefathers settled much of the surrounding country. +Harrisonburg is the county-seat of Rockingham county, which was +formed from Augusta in 1778. This is the third largest county +in Virginia.</p> + +<p>These people have always been among the sturdiest and +bravest in the Valley. They gave the best they had to develop +their new homes in a new country and when they were called<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[Pg 73]</a></span> +upon to fight in the French and Indian War, there were no +braver men to be had nor could any endure more hardships +than they.</p> + +<p>During the Revolutionary War they were among the first to +respond to the call for volunteers. They were among the first to +resent the closing of the Boston Harbor by the British in 1774. +We read an old account or notation of Felix Gilbert who kept a +shop near the town of Harrisonburg. He agreed to take food-stuffs +from his neighbors and send it to the relief of the Bostonians. +One of those entries, made in 1775, reads:</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>"Rece'd for the Bostonians; Of Patrick Frazier 1 bushel of wheat, +of Jos. Dictom 2 bushels of wheat, of James Beard 1 bu. of wheat, +Geo. Clarke 1 bu. wheat, Robt. Scott and Sons, 2 bu. wheat."</p></div> + + +<h3><span class="smcap">Massanutten Caverns</span></h3> + +<p>The owners of the Massanutten Caverns call them the "gem of +the cavern world," for they are a combination of the beautiful +and the unusual. They are located east of Harrisonburg on the +Spotswood Trail.</p> + +<p>These caverns are of rather recent discovery. In 1892 during a +thriving limestone industry some workmen blasted rock in the +foothills and after the discharge of dynamite was over they looked +into a fairyland of strange rooms and strange formations.</p> + +<p>The operator of the caverns called the entrance "Discovery +Gate" and planned the route through the underground so that +visitors begin their journey where the discovery was made.</p> + +<p>Vacationists find themselves unloading their luggage and remaining +either overnight or for longer periods of time when they +see the facilities offered there. The accommodations include a +golf course and swimming pool as well as a lodge and cottages.</p> + + +<h3><span class="smcap">Grand Caverns</span></h3> + +<p>Back in 1804 Bernard Weyer discovered the unusual caves +situated on a bluff belonging to his neighbor Mr. Mohler. Nearly +a century before, the courageous "Sir Knights of the Golden +Horseshoe" had passed by this part of the Blue Ridge—within ten +miles of the entrance of the caverns, perhaps, and because of the +layout of the land never suspected the underground "Buried<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[Pg 74]</a></span> +City." Today these are called Grand Caverns and are located +between Elkton and Mt. Sidney, the latter town being on the +Lee-Jackson Highway.</p> + +<p>Young Weyer was a great hunter who enjoyed roaming the +fields and hillsides in search of game. The historian Kercheval +tells the story of the day when Weyer went to find an elusive +ground-hog, having previously set a trap for it. The animal not +only had not been captured but for some time had made a successful +getaway with each trap set for it. Weyer decided to dig +for the ground-hog hide-out. "A few moments' labor brought +him to the antechamber of this stupendous cavern, where he +found his traps safely deposited." Not content with eleven pages +of flattering and minute descriptions of every passageway known +then, Kercheval used another page with "Note A" and "Note B" +which described later explorations. This makes interesting reading +for those who have either visited the Caverns or have not +had that privilege and plan to see them. In these accounts he +included Congress Hall, The Infernal Regions, Washington's +Hall, The Church, Jefferson's Hall and numerous others.</p> + +<p><i>The Historical Collections of Virginia</i> by Henry Howe gives a +vivid picture of Weyer's Cave and the author further states:</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>"A foreign traveller who visited the cave at an annual illumination, +has, in a finely written description, the following notice:</p> + +<p>" ... Weyer's Cave is in my judgment one of the great natural +wonders of this new world; and for its eminence in its own class, +deserves to be ranked with the Natural Bridge and Niagara, while it +is far less known than either.... For myself, I acknowledge the +spectacle to have been most interesting; but, to be so, it must be illuminated, +as on this occasion. I had thought that this circumstance might +give to the whole a toyish effect; but the influence of 2,000 or 3,000 +lights on these immense caverns is only such as to reveal the objects, +without disturbing the solemn and sublime obscurity which sleeps on +everything. Scarcely any scenes can awaken so many passions at once, +and so deeply. Curiosity, apprehension, terror, surprise, admiration, +and delight, by turns and together, arrest and possess you. I have had +before, from other objects, one simple impression made with greater +power; but I never had so many impressions made, and with so much +power, before. If the interesting and the awful are the elements of the +sublime, here sublimity reigns, as in her own domain, in darkness, +silence, and deeps profound."</p></div> + +<p>Bear in mind that this account was given long before 1850 +and that Grand Caverns was first known as Weyer's Cave.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[Pg 75]</a></span></p> + +<p>We learned that the Cave was used as a source of income by +its owners first in 1836, when the large chambers were converted +into temporary dance halls for the countryside youth. Mentioned +above is the fact that the caverns were lighted once a year and +admission was charged on this occasion. About 1925 the passages +were lighted properly and tourists began their trek to this wonder +of nature.</p> + +<p>A modern note is to be found in the name "Linbergh Bridge"—one +not mentioned as such by any of the early writers!</p> + + +<h3><span class="smcap">Massanetta Springs</span></h3> + +<p>One of the most delightful places in all the Valley is Massanetta +Springs. It is one of those beauty spots which one finds +after going through Swift Run Gap, famous for being the first +gap through which came the English with Governor Spotswood +and his Knights of the Golden Horseshoe. It was through here, +too, that General George Washington passed on horseback in +1784.</p> + +<p>Long ago these springs were known as Taylor Springs and +during the War Between the States the wounded soldiers were +cared for there. Many famous people lived in and around this +lovely spring. We are told that Daniel Boone's wife lived near +here, and that Abraham Lincoln's father, Thomas Lincoln, was +born not more than twelve miles away on Linville Creek. Not far +away is Singer's Glen where some of the first early American +hymns and songs were published.</p> + +<p>Today various religious denominations hold summer conferences +at the Springs.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Staunton" id="Staunton"></a>Staunton</h2> + + +<p>Near Lewis's Fort a settlement grew up and in 1749 a town +was chartered. It was named Staunton in honor of Lady Staunton, +wife of Governor Gooch, the official who had given so many +land grants to Lewis and his Scotch neighbors. At that time, the +town was the county-seat of Augusta (formed from Orange +County in 1738), whose boundaries swept far to the west. Old +records show that one time the court adjourned in Staunton and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[Pg 76]</a></span> +reconvened at Fort Duquesne, the colonial outpost which has long +since become Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania.</p> + +<p>If one would search further, he would find this was done during +the French and Indian troubles. Five Chiefs, or rather several +of the Five Nations, signed this order or treaty and it is to be +seen among other historical documents in the Court House in +Staunton.</p> + +<p>After the Legislature fled from Charlottesville to Staunton +during Tarleton's Raid, that body met and held its sessions in +old Trinity Episcopal Church. During this short time, Staunton +was called "the Capital of Virginia."</p> + +<p>The area around Staunton is full of War Between the States +history too, referred to in other places.</p> + +<p>Woodrow Wilson was born here in a lovely old Presbyterian +manse which is now a shrine to one of the greatest Presidents of +the United States. Here, annually, thousands of Americans come +to honor him.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/illus-084.jpg" width="400" height="377" alt="The Manse Woodrow Wilson's Birthplace, Staunton, Va." title="The Manse Woodrow Wilson's Birthplace, Staunton, Va." /> +<p class="attrib">—<i>Courtesy Virginia State Chamber of Commerce</i></p> +<p class="caption">The Manse<br />Woodrow Wilson's Birthplace, Staunton, Va.</p> +</div> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[Pg 77]</a></span> +The town is a center of culture, for there are located many +splendid schools; among them, for girls are Mary Baldwin and +Stuart Hall. Staunton Military Academy and nearby Augusta +Military Academy are recognized as outstanding schools for boys. +There are two business schools, Dunsmore and Templeton Business +College. The one for the deaf and blind is a State institution.</p> + +<p>Tarleton entered Charlottesville on the fourth day of June in +1781. Jefferson's term as governor expired four days later. Ex-Governor +Patrick Henry had been his guest while the Legislature +was meeting there. He now hastened to Staunton where the +Legislators had fled from Charlottesville. Mr. Jefferson, according +to one historian, concealed himself in a cave in Carter's Mountain +and Patrick Henry, in his flight to Staunton, met Colonel Lewis +and told him of how the Legislators had fled Charlottesville upon +Tarleton's invasion.</p> + +<p>Colonel Lewis, not knowing who Patrick Henry was, replied +"If Patrick Henry had been in Albemarle, the British Dragoons +never would have passed over the Rivanna River."</p> + +<p>The Legislators were badly demoralized, for they feared Tarleton +would come to Staunton. Many of them left during the night +and went to the hospitable home of Colonel George Moffett. +During Mr. Henry's hasty changes he had the misfortune to lose +one of his boots. While eating breakfast the next morning, Mrs. +Moffett remarked, "There was one member of the Legislative +body whom I knew would not run." The question was asked by +one of the party, "Who is he?" Her reply was, "Patrick Henry," +at that moment a gentleman with one boot colored perceptibly. +The party soon left and after their departure a servant rode up +and asked for Mr. Henry, saying he had forgotten his boot. Of +course Mrs. Moffett knew whom the boot fitted.</p> + +<p>A tale made more popular perhaps because of a recent revival +of interest in Salem witchcraft is that of a woman who lived years +ago in Augusta County and who was a great aunt of Governor +James McDowell of Rockbridge County. She was born Mary +McDowell and married James Greenlee.</p> + +<p>It is recounted that she was an unusually attractive and intelligent +young woman but was considered highly eccentric in her behavior. +Neighbors thought that an early love affair had contributed +something to her peculiar manner. Be that as it may, she<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[Pg 78]</a></span> +was regarded by her acquaintances as a witch. They believed she +had made a written contract with the devil—a contract drawn up +in duplicate form so that each party might retain a copy!</p> + +<p>Once at a quilting party in her home she urged one of the +quilters to take a second piece of cake and laughingly remarked +that "the mare that does double work should be best fed." The +women misconstrued this to be an acknowledgment that she was a +witch who rode a mare at night on her excursions to meet the +devil. The rumor of her evil activities rapidly spread throughout +the countryside.</p> +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/illus-086.jpg" width="400" height="521" alt="Woodrow Wilson's Bed, Staunton, Va." title="Woodrow Wilson's Bed, Staunton, Va." /> +<p class="attrib">—<i>Courtesy Virginia State Chamber of Commerce</i></p> +<p class="caption">Woodrow Wilson's Bed, Staunton, Va.</p> +</div> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[Pg 79]</a></span> +The neighborhood thought she was capable of placing curses +upon them and attributed such tragedies as fires, loss of family or +stock, or poor crops to the unfortunate woman.</p> + +<p>The fact that she was never brought before the court with the +accusation of being a witch was due in large measure to the +standing of the family. That does not mean, however, that Mrs. +Greenlee did not live a wretched existence or that failure to +declare her a witch made the people less afraid of her powers.</p> + +<p>While he was President of the United States, Woodrow Wilson +returned to Staunton and placed a tablet on the wall of the First +Presbyterian Church in memory of his father, Dr. Joseph Wilson, +a former minister. The church in which Dr. Wilson used to +preach and in which the President was christened serves now as +the Chapel of Mary Baldwin College.</p> + +<p>An interesting old home in Staunton is the Stuart House, located +on Lewis Street. It was planned by the great architect and +builder Thomas Jefferson. Mr. A. H. Stuart, the owner, was a +member of President Fillmore's Cabinet.</p> + +<p>The main building of the School for the Deaf and Blind is an +unexcelled example of Doric architecture. During the War Between +the States it was used as a hospital.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Waynesboro_and_Afton" id="Waynesboro_and_Afton"></a>Waynesboro and Afton</h2> + + +<p>"Mad Anthony Wayne," the Revolutionary hero, has a town +named for him in Virginia—Waynesboro. This is a beautiful +place which has become even more popular upon completion of +the projected Skyline Drive southward from Swift Run Gap.</p> + +<p>The State Conservation Commission has erected an historical +marker which states briefly:</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>"Here on one of the first roads west of the Blue Ridge, a hamlet +stood in colonial times. The Walker exploring expedition started from +this vicinity in 1748. Here, in June 1781, the Augusta militia assembled +to join Lafayette in the East. A town was founded in 1797. It +was established by law in 1801 and named for General Anthony +Wayne."</p></div> + +<p>In 1854 the countryside was very much excited over the trip +made by the first train travelling west of the Blue Ridge. Crowds<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[Pg 80]</a></span> +gathered to see the phenomenon and half of them left in fright, +we are told, as the iron horse chugged off. Incidentally, mules +hauled the first passenger engine over the high mountains and +set it down for its memorable exodus.</p> + +<p>For the most part the buildings one sees in the town have been +erected since 1861, for in that year a devastating fire wiped out +the landmarks of pioneer days.</p> + +<p>The last battle in Northern Virginia during the War Between +the States occurred here in March 1865, just about a month before +the surrender of General Lee at Appomattox. Hoping to protect +Rockfish Gap, General Early had his Confederate forces quartered +in the town. Sheridan, the Union General, surprised him and +captured more than half the rebels.</p> + +<p>Furnishing power for the large manufacturing interests are the +numerous springs of Waynesboro, which have a capacity of millions +of gallons of water a day. If you are unfamiliar with springs +such as Virginia has, you should stop at Brunswick, Baker's, or +Basic Lithia Springs for an unusual sight.</p> + +<p>Swannanoa, one of the finest estates in Virginia, is on top of +the mountain between Waynesboro and Afton. It is said by +numbers of people that two of the loveliest views in America +may be had from this point: Rockfish and Shenandoah <a name="corr_8"></a><ins class="mycorr" title="Original:valleys">valleys.</ins> +You will probably agree with the statement when you stand where +you may get a commanding view of the country below you. The +large home on the estate is now a country club. Nearby is the +site of "Old Mountain Top Tavern," widely known years ago for +its fine hospitality. A group met at the tavern in 1818 to decide +the location of the proposed University of Virginia. Among them +were Madison, Monroe, Marshall and Jefferson.</p> + +<p>Driving along the roads you see some of the finest peach +orchards in Virginia, for the section is famed for its high quality +fruit. Not only do peaches abound here, but you will also see +splendid apple orchards. If you happen along at the right season +you will be able to stop at a roadside market to buy the renowned +Albemarle Pippins—the apples which are grown for miles around—and +some of the luscious peaches.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[Pg 81]</a></span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Natural_Bridge" id="Natural_Bridge"></a>Natural Bridge</h2> + + +<p>"Who first discovered Natural Bridge?" is a question which +nearly every one asks, and a second one is, "How high is it?"</p> + +<p>The answer to the first is given in an old Indian legend which +reads something like this: Long, long ago, years before the +Princess Pocahontas saved the life of Captain John Smith, there +was a terrible war between some of the tribes. The Shawnees +were noted for their cruelty and they joined forces with the +Powhatans. They roamed through Virginia and fell upon the +Monocans, a more friendly tribe.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/illus-089.jpg" width="400" height="673" alt="Natural Bridge" title="Natural Bridge" /> +<p class="caption">Natural Bridge</p> +</div> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[Pg 82]</a></span> +There had been a famine that year and the Monocans were +weakened by hunger and many of their braves fell in battle. After +a long conflict, the Monocans decided to retreat and they gave way +before the enemy. But they were pursued relentlessly. The +Monocans sought refuge in a strange forest and suddenly they +came upon a high chasm, whose steep walls were of rock. The +braves peered over and were made dizzy when they saw the great +distance to the bottom below, where a swiftly running river +looked like a small silver ribbon.</p> + +<p>Even the strongest could not have jumped across the wide +chasm, for it was over a hundred feet wide. Their swiftest scouts +ran hither and yon, but each brought back word that there was +no way around.</p> + +<p>The Monocans were in despair and in their distress threw +themselves upon the ground and cried aloud to the Great Spirit +to spare their lives from the approaching enemy.</p> + +<p>One of the braves arose and went again to the edge of the +cliff. He stared down at his feet, then turned and shouted, "Our +prayers have been granted us—The Great Spirit has built for us +a bridge across the great abyss."</p> + +<p>"Be careful," cried one of the men. "Send the squaws and +children first to test it. If they cross in safety, then we will know +it will be heavy enough to carry our weight also."</p> + +<p>And so the women and children passed over into the shelter +of the forest beyond. Even as they went they could hear the war +whoops of the advancing enemy.</p> + +<p>But the Monocans were refreshed in spirit. Their courage had +returned, for was not the Great Spirit on their side? The braves +quickly took positions on the bridge, each feeling he stood on +sacred ground, and like the Greeks of old at Thermopylae they +turned and faced their enemy and fought victoriously. From that +day, we are told, they called it "The Bridge of God" and worshipped +it.</p> + +<p>The first white man to own Natural Bridge was Thomas +Jefferson, and one may see the original land grant still hanging +on the walls of Monticello which reads, in part:</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>"Know ye that for divers good causes and considerations, but more +Especially for and in Consideration of the sum of Twenty Shillings of +good and lawful money for our use paid to our Receiver General of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[Pg 83]</a></span> +our Revenues, in this our Colony and Dominion of Virginia, We have +Given, Granted and Confirmed, and by these presents for us, our +heirs and successors, Do give, Grant and confirm unto Thomas +Jefferson, one certain Tract or parcel of land, containing 157 acres, +lying and being in the County of Botetourt, including the Natural +Bridge on Cedar Creek, a branch of James River ..."</p></div> + +<p>We are told that George Washington surveyed the land in +1750, and while there he climbed up 23 feet and carved his +initials "G. W." on the southeast walls; the guide today will +try to point them out to the visitor. A story is also told that +George Washington threw a stone from the bottom of Cedar +Creek over the Bridge. Evidently he liked to test his strength by +such sports, for it is said that he threw a Spanish dollar across the +Rappahannock River opposite the town of Fredericksburg.</p> + +<p>When this story was told to the late President Cleveland, he +replied, "I do not know about that, but I am well assured he +threw a sovereign across the Atlantic."</p> + +<p>In 1927 another stone was found which scientists think proved +George Washington surveyed that territory. This stone is a large +one and also bears his initials which are engraved in a surveyor's +cross. Evidently he measured the height of the Bridge by dropping +a line from the edge of the bridge to the cross below.</p> + +<p>Thomas Jefferson called his purchase the "most Sublime of +Nature's works." He visited it many times and during his presidency, +in 1802, he surveyed the place with his own hands. He +later built a log cabin which contained two rooms and one of them +was always kept ready for a visitor. Many famous people visited +there and the list includes such men as John Marshall, James +Monroe, Henry Clay, Sam Houston and Martin Van Buren. +While in France, Jefferson collected many plants and shrubs +which he sent to America; many of these were planted at the +Bridge, and some are still in <a name="corr_9"></a><ins class="mycorr" title="Original: existance">existence</ins>.</p> + +<p>Cedar Creek, the parent of the Bridge, has been busy for +thousands of years cutting a bit deeper each year.</p> + +<p>The answer to the second question, "How high is it?," is found +on a Government bench which carries a brass plate, "1,150 feet +above the sea." It is 245 feet high and is 90 feet wide.</p> + +<p>Boys and men are especially interested in the exciting story of +how Dr. Chester Reeds actually measured the wonderful Bridge.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[Pg 84]</a></span> +He had a special basket built which was strong enough to hold +him. Two hundred and fifty feet of rope was fastened to it and +run through a pulley and one end of it was tied to a fence post. +He was very dizzy at first and could not take pictures of the side +walls of the bridge. Gradually he became accustomed to turning +around and was able to get many fine ones at various angles and +of the massive supporting walls, the huge slabs of limestone and +some of the foliage.</p> + +<p>Natural Bridge is a monument to the patience of Old Mother +Nature and her skill as an artist. Today, one wonders at the +deep gorge—by night, with modern electrification, one is spellbound +by its beauty—and when sweet music fills the glen with +its symphonies one's soul is lifted to the Greatest Artist of all—to +God in reverence and gratitude.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Rockbridge" id="Rockbridge"></a>Rockbridge</h2> + + +<p>Rockbridge County takes its name from the celebrated Natural +Bridge and was formed from Augusta and Botetourt counties. A +branch of the James River is called North River and this stream +waters the county, flowing diagonally across it. Some of the +richest soil in all the Valley is found in Rockbridge. Lexington, +which is the county-seat, takes its name from the town of Lexington +in Massachusetts and was founded in 1778. The first buildings +of the old town were mostly destroyed by fire in 1794 and +were replaced with substantial brick buildings. An Englishman +who was visiting America long ago described the little town in +these words:</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>"The town as a settlement, has many attractions. It is surrounded +by beauty, and stands at the head of a valley flowing with milk and +honey. House rent is low, provisions are cheap, abundant and of the +best quality."</p></div> + +<p>The settlers were mostly the Scotch-Irish and of the Presbyterian +faith. As soon as they had cleared the lands and built their +homes they planted orchards, built their barns and settled down. +These were thoughtful men and women who kept their emotions +under constant guard. Yet when occasion arose, they spoke simply +and clearly and were unafraid. They detested civil tyranny and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[Pg 85]</a></span> +as they were far away from the seat of government, to a certain +extent they made their own laws and rigidly adhered to them.</p> + +<p>They were among the first in the Valley of Virginia to rally to +the defense of their country during the War of the Revolution.</p> + +<p>In their moral life, they were almost Puritanical. This was +founded on religious principle and often they were considered +austere and stern. Yet those who knew them, felt the kindness +and devotion to which they did not give expressions in words. To +them, deeds meant more than promises. Though they reproved +one without a smile, their eyes often expressed understanding and +sympathy and the offending one felt the deep love which had +moved the other to speak—always for the good of the offender. +And while some other fault would rear its head, not often was +the offense repeated which had called forth the reproach.</p> + +<p>The men and women were deeply religious and family prayers +were the first order of the day. As soon as homes were established +provisions were made for religious services to be held. Tiny +churches dotted the Valley wherever the Scotch-Irish settled. If +the church was far away, as it was from some, on meeting day +young and old mounted their horses and rode the intervening +miles for the long services.</p> + +<p>Many of these old Presbyterian churches are still standing today +and they serve as monuments to that hardy race of men and +women who braved all for religious freedom and for civic liberty. +The building of these churches meant such labor as we of the +present generation cannot know. There were no roads and no +sawmills. An old historian tells us how one church was built:</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>"The people of Providence Congregation packed all the sand used +in building their church from a place six miles distant, sack and sack, +on the backs of horses! And what is almost incredible, the fair wives +and daughters of the congregation are said to have undertaken this +part of the work, while the men labored at the stone and timber. Let +not the great-granddaughters of these women blush for them however +deeply they would blush themselves to be found in such employment. +For ourselves, we admire the conduct of these females; it was not only +excusable, but praiseworthy—it was almost heroic! It takes Spartan +mothers to rear Spartan men. These were among the women whose +sons and grandsons sustained Washington in the most disastrous period +of the Revolution."</p></div><p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[Pg 86]</a></span></p> + +<p>There was little social life in those early days such as their +eastern cousins knew along the James River. Except for their +church festivals, they did little entertaining. Twice a year they +held the Lord's Supper and this lasted for four days, with religious +services each day. During these times families living nearest the +church invited those who lived at great distances to stay with +them. Often some young couple would be married, either just +before or immediately after these services. Then there would be +a little merriment, extra cakes and a few playful pranks.</p> + + +<h3><span class="smcap">The First Academy in the Valley</span></h3> + +<p>Dr. Ruffner has left us a description of Timber Ridge, which +was built near Fairfield in Rockbridge County in 1776. The +school took its name from the fine oak trees which grew along its +ridge. He writes:</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>"The schoolhouse was a log cabin. The fine oak forest, which had +given Timber Ridge its name, cast its shade over it in summer and +afforded convenient fuel in winter. A spring of pure water gushed +from the rocks near the house. From amidst the trees the student had +a fine view of the country below and the neighboring Blue Ridge. In +short all the features of the place made it a fit habitation of the woodland +muse and the hill deserved the name of Mount Pleasant. Hither +about thirty youths of the mountains repaired to 'taste of the Pierian +spring.' Of reading, writing and ciphering, the boys of the country +had before acquired such knowledge as primary schools could afford; +but with a few late exceptions, Latin, Greek, algebra, geometry and +such like scholastic mysteries were things of which they had heard—which +they knew perhaps to lie covered up in the learned heads of +their pastors—but of the nature and uses they had no conception +whatever.</p> + +<p>"It was a log hut of one room. The students carried their dinner +with them from the boarding-schools in the neighborhood. They +conned their lesson either in the schoolroom where the recitations +were heard, or under the shade of the trees where breezes whispered +and birds sang without disturbing their studies. A horn—perhaps a +cow's horn—summoned the school from play and scattered classes +to recitations.</p> + +<p>"Instead of broadcloth coats, the students generally wore a far more +graceful garment, the hunting shirt, home-spun, home-woven, and +home-made, by the industry of wives and daughters.</p> + +<p>"Their amusements were not less remote from the modern taste of +students—cards, backgammon, flutes, fiddles, and even marbles were +scarcely known among these mountain boys. Firing pistols and rang<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[Pg 87]</a></span>ing +the field with shotguns to kill little birds for sport, they would +have considered a waste of time and ammunition. As to frequenting +tippling shops of any denomination, that was impossible because no +such catchpenny lures for students existed in the country, or would +have been tolerated. Had any huckster of liquors, knicknacks, and +explosive crackers, hung out signs in those days, the old Puritan +morality of the land was yet vigorous enough to abate the nuisance. +The sports of the students were mostly gymnastic, both manly and +healthful—such as leaping, running, wrestling, pitching quoits and +playing ball. In this rustic seminary a considerable number of young +men began their education, who afterwards bore a distinguished part +in the civil and ecclesiastical affairs of the country."</p></div> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Valley_Inventions" id="Valley_Inventions"></a>Valley Inventions</h2> + + +<p>The Valley of Virginia has often been termed "the granary +of the South." It is no wonder that farmers from time to time +have tried to shorten their labor in the wheat fields by inventing +machines to do their work.</p> + +<p>The name Robert McCormick means little or nothing to most +of us, yet on his farm, Walnut Grove, near Lexington he made +repeated attempts to invent a workable reaper. His son, Cyrus, +had watched with growing interest each of his father's undertakings. +His regrets must have been as keen as the elder McCormick's +when they realized one May morning in 1831 that the +clumsy machine could not replace the hand scythe and cradle.</p> + +<p>Cyrus knew something of machinery and determined to improve +his father's poor invention in time for the next harvesting. +During the intervening six weeks he stayed in the workshop as +much as the busy growing season would allow and secured the +ready help of a slave boy, Joe Anderson.</p> + +<p>In July when the wheat was ready to harvest Cyrus and his +father moved the machine out to the field. There a crowd of +neighbors gathered and watched with fascination as the reaper +cut six acres of wheat during the day.</p> + +<p>McCormick continued to improve his invention and other +farmers risked their money in purchasing the first six he offered +on the market. Eventually the news spread to the grain fields of +the Middle West and he opened factories to supply the farmers +there.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[Pg 88]</a></span></p> + +<p>For years the inventor strove to improve the reaper; he discovered +that other labor saving devices were needed equally as +badly, and he offered other types of farm machinery to the rich +farm lands.</p> + +<p>Inventive genius lay near Lexington along other lines, too. It +was near here that James Gibbs invented his common sense stitch +sewing-machine which was a forerunner of our more modern +models. And what a labor-saving machine that was to all the +housewives!</p> + + +<h3><span class="smcap">Washington College</span></h3> + +<p>The Scotch-Irish were determined to have the best schools and +colleges for their children. The Hanover Presbytery, which in +1776 embraced all the Presbyterian churches in Virginia, established +a school which they called Liberty Hall Academy. This +was built in Lexington, Virginia, with the Reverend William +Graham, a native of Pennsylvania, as its first president. George +Washington, in 1796, gave the school a regular endowment, the +first of its kind. This is how it was made:</p> + +<p>The Legislature of Virginia "as a testimony of their gratitude +for his services," and as "a mark of their respect," presented to +George Washington a certain number of shares in the Old James +River Company, an industry then in progress. Unwilling to +accept anything for his own benefit, he gave it to the Liberty +Hall Academy.</p> + +<p>In 1812, the Trustees of the school voted to ask the Virginia +Legislature to change the name to Washington College. Many +others decided to follow George Washington's fine example. +A Mr. John Robinson left his whole estate to the college; the next +to aid it, we are told, was the newly organized Society of the +Cincinnati of Virginia.</p> + +<p>Old records of the school throw an interesting light regarding +the expenses of a student in those far-off days. The treasurer's +bill for tuition, room rent, deposits and matriculation was $45 per +year. Board was $7.50 a month. Laundry, fuel, candles and bed +amounted to about three dollars per month. The cost of everything +averaged about $140 a year.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[Pg 89]</a></span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Lexington" id="Lexington"></a>Lexington</h2> + + +<p>When he was beset and overwhelmed, and without supplies, +Robert Edward Lee reached Appomattox in April, 1865, and +surrendered to General Grant on April 9th. He realized that the +people of the South needed courage and strength, and though he +was offered many places of honor with splendid salaries, he decided +to help rebuild Virginia. When the call came to become +president of Washington College in Lexington he accepted and +took up his duties there in October, 1865.</p> + +<p>As he spoke to the students assembled in the new chapel he +saw familiar faces. Many of them had followed him during +the years of the War Between the States; they, too, had courage +and hope. These boys and men loved the noble man and they +were willing to follow him in rebuilding their homes and the +Southland.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>"All good citizens must unite in honest efforts to obliterate the +effects of war, and to restore the blessings of peace. They must not +abandon their country, but go to work and build up its prosperity.</p> + +<p>"The young men especially must stay at home, bearing themselves +in such a manner as to gain the esteem of every one, at the same time +that they maintain their own respect.</p> + +<p>"It should be the object of all to avoid controversy, to allay passion, +and to give scope to every kindly feeling."</p></div> + +<p>In every respect he was prepared to be the president of a great +school, for he himself had been a model student at West Point. +He had already served as Superintendent there for three years.</p> + +<p>He was very happy during the short years he lived in Lexington. +He had the grounds improved, planted many trees, and +repaired the much worn buildings. He studied and worked over +the courses of study and enlarged the faculty.</p> + +<p>A young girl who was visiting in the home of General Lee in +Lexington, tells the following story. It was soon after the Surrender +at Appomattox and his acceptance of the Presidency of +Washington College.</p> + +<p>General Lee, with his family, was living in one of the comfortable +and large houses near the college. Their home at +Arlington had been confiscated during the War Between the +States, and they had no furniture except some which neighbors +had lent them.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[Pg 90]</a></span> +<img src="images/illus-098.jpg" width="600" height="185" alt="Washington and Lee University, Lexington, Va." title="Washington and Lee University, Lexington, Va." /> +<p class="attrib">—<i>Courtesy Virginia State Chamber of Commerce</i></p> +<p class="caption">Washington and Lee University, Lexington, Va.</p> +</div> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[Pg 91]</a></span> +One day a letter came to General Lee, telling him good news. +A lady who lived in New York wrote him that her husband had +died, and having no children she had decided to give up housekeeping. +She had been very happy and had loved her home. +Now she wanted the furnishings to belong to someone who would +appreciate and would care for them. She wrote she sympathized +with them in not having their own furniture and that there was no +one to whom she had rather give hers.</p> + +<p>General Lee hated the thought of accepting, until he read on, +that if he could not use the furniture himself, perhaps he could +use it in his college. After some time he wrote the lady he +would be very grateful and would appreciate it very much.</p> + +<p>In the meantime Mrs. Lee was looking forward to its coming, +for her large rooms were indeed very bare. At last the great +boxes came. General Lee was busy, so Mrs. Lee waited until he +could be present to have them opened.</p> + +<p>After lunch one day, General Lee had men come to open +them. Mrs. Lee's eyes shone as the first box revealed two huge +red velvet carpets.</p> + +<p>She looked at the General. His eyes were shining too.</p> + +<p>"Look, my dear," he said, "The very thing we need! If we +cut them carefully, we will have enough to carpet the platform +and the aisles of the new chapel!"</p> + +<p>"Of course," she smiled, never saying one word about how +warm and lovely they would make the double parlors in their +own home.</p> + +<p>The next box was opened with intense interest. The men +lifted out the upper part of a handsome bookcase. The next +brought the lower half, a lovely desk, with many drawers.</p> + +<p>"Oh," thought Mrs. Lee. "That will fill up that terrible space +between the windows."</p> + +<p>"This is the very thing we want," General Lee said, as the men +took them to the walk. "We will put that in the basement of +the new chapel. We will use it for our records and put our +best books in the bookcase, and this will be the beginning of our +college library."</p> + +<p>And so it went. He used the best of everything for his college, +and Mrs. Lee took only the odds and ends which did not fit any<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[Pg 92]</a></span>where +else. Someone told her she should have taken a stand and +insisted upon taking some of the best.</p> + +<p>"Oh, no," she laughed, "it was worth giving all of it up to +see the joy the General had in putting it to use in his college. +The boys come first—both of us are so interested in them."</p> + +<p>General Lee died in October, 1870, loved by men and women, +boys and girls in both the North and South. His body rests under +a beautiful white marble figure, which was sculptured by his +friend, Edward Valentine. It is called the Recumbent Statue of +General Lee and lies in the Chapel of Washington and Lee. This +is now a shrine to which hundreds come daily from all over the +world to pay their homage, love and respect to this great man.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/illus-100.jpg" width="400" height="517" alt="Virginia Military Institute" title="Virginia Military Institute" /> +<p class="attrib">—<i>Courtesy Virginia State Chamber of Commerce</i></p> +<p class="caption">Virginia Military Institute</p> +</div> + +<h3><span class="smcap">The Virginia Military Institute</span></h3> + +<p>Virginia Military Institute was first an academy and was +established in connection with Washington College by an act of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[Pg 93]</a></span> +the Legislature during the years 1838-9. A guard of soldiers had +been maintained at the expense of the State for the purpose of +affording protection to the arms deposited in the Lexington +arsenal for the use of the militia in western Virginia. It was +through the influence of Governor McDowell, who came from +Rockbridge County, that this militia was made into an educational +unit of Washington College.</p> + +<p>One seldom thinks of the Virginia Military Institute without +associating with it the noted Colonel Claudius Crozet—soldier, +educator and engineer. He was the first president of the V.M.I. +Board of Visitors. An imposing hall at the Institute is named in +his honor.</p> + +<p>In the Stonewall Jackson Memorial Hall hangs the painting +which depicts the charge of the corps of cadets at the Battle of +New Market. "This great painting, not a mural, is one of the +largest canvas paintings in the country"—according to authorities +there.</p> + +<p>Among other memorial buildings is the one erected in honor of +Brigadier-General Scott Shipp, a former cadet, instructor and +superintendent; Maury-Brooke Hall, dedicated to Matthew Fontaine +Maury, the Pathfinder of the Seas and honoring Commander +John Mercer Brooke, inventor of the deep-sea sounding apparatus +and builder of the first successful iron-clad vessel, the "Merrimac."</p> + +<p>During the War Between the States the greater part of the +buildings were destroyed by Federal authority. When General +Lee heard of this tragedy he wrote to General F. H. Smith, the +superintendent there. We quote his letter because of its prophetic +message:</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p> <span class="rpos">"<span class="smcap">Camp Petersburg, (Va.)</span> <i>July 4, 1864</i>.</span></p> + +<p>"I have grieved over the destruction of the Military Institute. But +the good that has been done to the country cannot be destroyed, nor +can its name or fame perish. It will rise stronger than before, and +continue to diffuse its benefits to a grateful people. Under wise administration, +there will be no suspension of its usefulness. The +difficulties by which it is surrounded will call forth greater energies +from its officers and increased diligence from its pupils. Its prosperity +I consider certain.</p> + +<p>"With great regards, yours very truly,</p> + +<p> <span class="rpos"> +"<span class="smcap">R. E. Lee.</span>"</span></p> +</div> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[Pg 94]</a></span> +There is a glamor attached to this Virginia school unique in the +country. It comes not alone from the bright cadet uniforms, the +parade grounds, the gray stone barracks and the <i>esprit de corps</i> +evidenced there; part is kept alive by the hundreds of loyal alumni +and friends whose devotion is unlimited. This "West Point of +the South" maintains the traditions of the time of Stonewall +Jackson and graduates young officers for the army and young +men for every field of business. A current Broadway show of +popular appeal and a cinema of note is that of "Brother Rat" +which depicts the life at V.M.I.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Culpeper_Minute_Men" id="Culpeper_Minute_Men"></a>Culpeper Minute Men</h2> + + +<p>Who can resist a story about the Revolutionary War? There +is a fascination surrounding the heroes and heroines of that era +and most of us listen attentively to any legend depicting the +action of our forefathers.</p> + +<p>From a point along the Skyline Drive one may look toward +Culpeper County. (In fact, in all probability you passed through +a part of this old county if you took an east to west route to reach +the drive.) Among other things Culpeper is justly famous for its +Minute Men of the Revolutionary War.</p> + +<p>The town was formed from Orange in 1748 and was named +in honor of Lord Culpeper, Governor of Virginia from 1680 to +1683. This land was a part of the original land grant to Lord +Fairfax. It was here in the old Courthouse that young George +Washington produced his commission as surveyor. The record +reads:</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>"20th July, 1749—George Washington Gent. produced a commission +from the President and Master of William and Mary College, +appointing him to be surveyor of this county, which was read, and +thereupon he took the usual oaths to his majesty's person and government, +and took and subscribed the abjuration oath and test, and then +took the oath of surveyor, according to law."</p></div> + +<p>Speaking years later in the Senate, John Randolph of Roanoke +remarked that the Minute Men "were raised in a minute, armed +in a minute, marched in a minute, fought in a minute, and van<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[Pg 95]</a></span>quished +in a minute." These soldiers chose as part of their +uniform green hunting shirts with "Liberty or Death" stamped in +large letters across the front. Buck tails hung from their old hats +and from their belts swung tomahawks and scalping knives. +Their wild appearance on reaching Williamsburg, the capital of +the colony, set the inhabitants in as much fear as did the thought +of invasion by the enemy! Lieutenant John Marshall who was +later to become Chief Justice was among the number—as was +his father.</p> + +<p>The slogan of the Minute Men "Liberty or Death" brought +forth humor from one wag who said the phrasing was too strong +for him; he would enlist if it were changed to "Liberty or Be +Crippled."</p> + +<p>Almost upon their immediate arrival at Williamsburg they +were marched to Norfolk County and were participants in the +Battle of Great Bridge.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Blind_Preacher" id="Blind_Preacher"></a>Blind Preacher</h2> + + +<p>Not so far from Gordonsville there is a simple marker near the +site of "Belle Grove," a little church made famous by a blind +preacher. And back of the monument itself is a story well worth +repeating. It is a tale told by William Wirt in his <i>British Spy</i>.</p> + +<p>In that account Wirt said:</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>"It was one Sunday as I travelled through the county of Orange, +that my eye was caught by a cluster of horses tied near a ruinous old +wooden house in the forest, not far from the roadside. Having frequently +seen such objects before, in travelling through these States, I +had no difficulty in understanding that this was a place of religion."</p></div> + +<p>He stated further that he was filled with curiosity as to the type +of minister who would preach in such a wilderness as he was +passing through and so he stopped and joined the worshippers. +He described the preacher, a Presbyterian in faith, as having one +of the most striking appearances he had ever seen and a most +remarkable delivery.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>"I have never seen, in any other orator, such a union of simplicity +and majesty. He has not a gesture, an attitude, or an accent, to which +he does not seem forced by the sentiment which he is expressing. His +mind is too serious, too earnest, too solicitous, and, at the same time,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[Pg 96]</a></span> +too dignified, to stoop to artifice. Although as far removed from +ostentation as a man can be, yet it is clear from the train, the style, and +substance of his thoughts, that he is not only a very polite scholar, but +a man of extensive and profound erudition."</p></div> + +<p>James Waddel was the name of this remarkable old man of +God. He was born in Ireland in 1739 and was brought to +America as an infant.</p> + +<p>Another interesting tale was told in the neighborhood. Waddel's +fame as a preacher had spread through the vicinity. On one +occasion a committee from a different faith prepared to wait on +him and urge him to occupy their pulpit as well as his own. +Upon nearing his dwelling they were shocked to hear sweet +plaintive notes coming from a violin and resolved to learn who +in his household would dare to play the devil's instrument. +They crept softly to the window. Such amazement was theirs +when they saw their potential minister himself drawing the bow—and +with apparent enjoyment and satisfaction. More quickly +than they had approached did they leave the yard and felt +righteously thankful that they had seen the true nature of the +man before it was too late!</p> + +<p>Not only did the Blind Preacher serve as minister, but like +others of his profession he conducted a school.</p> + +<p>And what happened to the old church itself? Long abandoned +as a meeting house for the Presbyterians, about 1850 it was sold +and taken down by the "Sons of Temperance" and converted into +a temperance hall at Gordonsville. Later it housed a school. +Finally it was sold to a colored preacher as a church for his flock.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Hebron_Church" id="Hebron_Church"></a>Hebron Church</h2> + + +<p>Outstanding among the old churches in this part of Virginia +is Hebron Church in Madison County.</p> + +<p>The little colony of Germans at Germanna, to whom we have +already referred, and a few immigrants from Holland were responsible +for its early establishment. First it was known as "Old +Dutch Church." Located on its original site its existence has +been in three different counties: Orange, Culpeper and now +Madison!<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[Pg 97]</a></span></p> + +<p>Hebron is the oldest Lutheran church not only in Virginia but +in the South. About 1733 the nucleus of the congregation met +and sent a representative to England for a pastor. It seems a bit +surprising that no English parson felt the call to tend the flock +in an outpost of Virginia, but it is true that no one was possessed +of the missionary spirit to that extent.</p> + +<p>In 1735 a Hessian who had come to America eight years before, +the Rev. Casper Stoever, left his home in Pennsylvania and became +the first pastor. His annual salary, by the way, was four +thousand pounds of tobacco or just about forty dollars in currency. +This was paid by the congregation in addition to the taxes which +were required of the Non-Conformist churches towards the upkeep +of the established English church.</p> + +<p>Everyone in Madison is vastly proud of the old pipe organ +at Hebron. It was built in 1800 at Philadelphia and brought +to its present place on wagon—a journey which took a long time +and infinite pains. Jacob and Michael Rouse were entrusted with +the task of hauling. The organ cost two hundred pounds sterling. +Interesting, too, is the complete old communion service which +dates back to the church's early beginnings.</p> + +<p>In recent years visiting concert organists have played on the +fine old instrument at the request of the congregation.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Hoovers_Camp_on_the_Rapidan_River" id="Hoovers_Camp_on_the_Rapidan_River"></a>Hoover's Camp on the Rapidan River</h2> + + +<p>During the administration of former President Hoover a fine +camp was built on the banks of the Rapidan River in Madison +County where the Chief Executive, his family and friends enjoyed +the trout fishing and rustic life that the camp afforded. A main +lodge was erected for the President. Guest lodges for the Cabinet +members and others were located nearby. This retreat is within +easy driving distance of the White House and was in constant +use for week-ends during the summer months. From Washington +the Presidential parties took route 211 to Warrenton and from +there two routes were offered: either a continuation of route 211 +to Sperryville, then south to Criglersville on route 16, or from +Warrenton to Culpeper to Criglersville.</p> + +<p>Both Mr. and Mrs. Hoover became very much interested in the +life of the mountaineers who grew to be their friendly neighbors.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[Pg 98]</a></span> +You have heard the story, no doubt, of the small unlettered boy +who brought a gift to the President and who aroused in him and +Mrs. Hoover the desire to see a school built in the neighborhood +which would serve a large mountain area. An excellent little +frame building nestles among the sloping hills which attracts the +children of all ages within a radius of many miles. One part of +the building is used for class instruction and the rest for living +quarters for the teacher. This school was made possible largely +through the efforts of Mr. and Mrs. Hoover.</p> + +<p>One may see the school and the entrance to the Rapidan Camp +by following the road which leads from Big Meadow, a plateau +on the Skyline Drive, to Criglersville.</p> + +<p>The camp is still in use at times. Cabinet members and other +government officials enjoy its stream and mountain beauties, but +not to the extent of former times.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Charlottesville_and_Albemarle_County" id="Charlottesville_and_Albemarle_County"></a>Charlottesville and Albemarle County</h2> + +<h3><span class="smcap">The Father of the University of Virginia</span></h3> + + +<p>Every school child knows the outstanding facts about Thomas +Jefferson. He will rattle off quickly that he was born near +Charlottesville in Albemarle County, in 1743, that he was at +William and Mary College when only seventeen and played his +fiddle which he had carried as he rode the long miles between +Charlottesville and Williamsburg. He graduated there and was +admitted to the bar. Thomas Jefferson drafted, at the request of +the Committee, the Declaration of Independence. He was Governor +of Virginia during the trying years of the Revolutionary +War. We shall not give all the offices which he held, except to +mention that he spent some years abroad in France as United +States Minister. For almost forty years he served his country, +having been President of it from 1801 to 1809.</p> + +<p>It is from the quaint letters of his granddaughter, Ellenora +Randolph, that one may read of the tenderness, the lovable +disposition and the human side of this great American.</p> + +<p>She was said to be his favorite grandchild and she writes of +how she sat on his knee and played with his huge watch chain. +He never went to Philadelphia without bringing her little luxuries<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[Pg 99]</a></span> +which it was impossible to buy in Virginia. He brought her a +Bible, a lady's side saddle, a Leghorn hat, and a set of Shakespeare.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/illus-107.jpg" width="600" height="427" alt=""Monticello", Near Charlottesville, Va." title=""Monticello", Near Charlottesville, Va." /> +<p class="attrib">—<i>Courtesy Virginia Conservation Commission</i></p> +<p class="caption">"Monticello", Near Charlottesville, Va.</p> +</div> + +<p>She tells how Jefferson's wife had died when his daughters +were quite young and that he had been so kind and sympathetic +in "shaping their lives."</p> + +<p>There is an interesting love story here, too, for Ellenora met and +fell in love with Joseph Coolidge of Boston. He came a-wooing +the Virginia beauty, and according to the custom of that day, he +wrote Mr. Jefferson of his intentions to marry his granddaughter +before he proposed to her.</p> + +<p>The following is Jefferson's reply to Joseph Coolidge:</p> + +<div class="blockquot"> +<p> <span class="rpos">"<span class="smcap">Monticello</span>, <i>October 24, 1824</i>.</span></p> + +<p>"I avail myself of the first moment of my ability to take up a pen +to assure you that nothing would be more welcome to me than the +visit proposed and its object.... I assure you no union could give +me more satisfaction if your wishes are mutual. Your visit to Monticello +and at the time of your convenience will be truly welcome, and +your stay, whatever may suit yourself. My gratification will be +measured by the time of its continuance....</p> + +<p>"I expect in the course of the first or the second week of the +approaching month to receive here the visit of my ancient friend, +General LaFayette. The delirium which his visit has excited in the +North envelopes him in the South also ... and the county of Albemarle +will exhibit its great affection and unending means in a +dinner given the General in the building of the University, to which +they have given accepted invitations to Mr. and Mrs. James Madison +and myself as guests; and at which your presence as my guest would +give high pleasure to us all, and to name, I assure you more cordially +than sincerely your friend;</p> + +<p> + <span class="rpos">(Signed) "<span class="smcap">Thomas Jefferson.</span>"</span></p></div> + +<p>The wedding accounts give the names of fifty distinguished +Americans who came to pay their respects to Ellenora and her +husband. Every distinguished foreigner came in person; besides +these, there came many of the men who had known and loved +Jefferson during all his years of service. Imagine all the horses +that had to be fed, all the gigs and coaches and all the Negro +servants who had to be quartered. No one is surprised that what +the man had accumulated was fast disappearing with so much +hospitality.</p> + +<p>But Ellenora had her troubles upon arriving in Boston. Her<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">[Pg 101]</a></span> +presents and other possessions had been sent by boat and it had +sunk! Her letter tells of her great distress at losing the trinkets +associated with her happy girlhood. But most of all, she expressed +her grief upon losing a writing desk which Grandfather Jefferson +had had made for her by his master carpenter, a Negro servant. +This was a very talented carver who had faithfully carried out each +detailed design which his master had given him. Now he was +old and had grown blind and he could no longer make one. +This is Jefferson's letter to his granddaughter—and explains how +a most historic desk went a-travelling:</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>"It has occurred to me that perhaps I can replace it (desk) not +indeed to you, but to Mr. Coolidge, by a substitute, not claiming the +same value from its decorations but the part it has bourne in our +history, and the event with which it has been associated.... Now +I happen to possess the writing box on which the Declaration of +Independence was written. It was made from a drawing of my own, +by Ben Randall, a cabinetmaker in whose house I took lodging on +my first arrival in Philadelphia, in May, 1776, and I have had it ever +since. It claims no merit of particular beauty. It is plain, neat and +convenient and taking no more room on a writing table than a modern +quarto volume it displays itself sufficient for any writing. Mr. +Coolidge must do me the favor of accepting this. Its imaginary value +will increase with the years. If he lives till my age, he may see it +carried in the procession of our nation's birthday."</p></div> + +<p>So this is how the famous desk went to New England and was +finally sent to the State Department in Washington by the +Coolidges in 1876.</p> + +<p>When Thomas Jefferson was an old man, he began to carry +out his dream, one which he had had for a long time, to build a +university. All his life he had loved to draw plans and he +carefully made his own blueprints. He drew plans for lovely +Monticello when he was twenty-eight years old. His friends came +from far and near to get him to draw plans for their homes. +Ashlawn, Montpelier and others are monuments to this master +builder. He had his own ideas about educating the young men of +Virginia. He wanted to see them fitted to be fine citizens by +having a good education, for he knew it was through good +citizens that a good government would be realized. But first he +had to educate his friends along this line. Many of them still +thought a tutor in the family was the best way. Many did not +believe in "mass education." For ten long years he worked to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[Pg 102]</a></span> +get a bill through the Legislature which called for the establishment +of the University of Virginia. At last, in 1825 the school +was opened. But many years passed before Jefferson could get +the buildings he had dreamed of and had planned. Then when +he was eighty-two, his dream came true.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 399px;"> +<img src="images/illus-110.jpg" width="399" height="642" alt="Rotunda of University of Virginia" title="Rotunda of University of Virginia" /> +<p class="attrib">—<i>Courtesy Virginia State Chamber of Commerce</i></p> +<p class="caption">Rotunda of University of Virginia</p> +</div> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[Pg 103]</a></span> +Today one may see his university, set on a sloping hill. The +buildings are models of architecture and Jefferson himself superintended +the construction of them. It is told that he often watched +the carpenters from Monticello through a telescope. Jefferson +also planned those early courses of study and helped in the +selection of the faculty. The spirit of Jefferson is still felt there +today and each generation of students has been enriched by it and +the noble traditions of the school.</p> + +<p>Many famous students have gone there. Edgar Allan Poe wrote +"The Raven" and "Anabel Lee" there. An Arctic explorer from +the University was Elisha Kane. Walter Reed studied medicine +and, as we know, won the fight against yellow fever by his heroic +experiments. Each year, men go out from this great old school +who help to build a greater country—just as Jefferson dreamed +they would.</p> + +<p>After his death on July 4, 1826, someone found a paper on +which he had written these words:</p> + +<p class="center"> +"Here was buried<br /> +Thomas Jefferson<br /> +Author of the Declaration of American Independence<br /> +of the <a name="corr_10"></a><ins class="mycorr" title="Original: Statue">Statute</ins> of Virginia for religious freedom<br /> +and Father of the University of Virginia."<br /> +</p> + +<p>And today, one finds his tomb halfway up the hill to Monticello +and the words above are cut upon the simple shaft which +marks his grave.</p> + +<p>Monticello is open to the public and may be reached by a hard +surface road leading out of Charlottesville. Through careful +research and diligence the Monticello Memorial Association has +brought back to the home much of the fine furnishings which +Jefferson himself had collected. At the present time the second +and third floors of the mansion are being faithfully restored.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[Pg 104]</a></span></p> + +<h3> +<span class="smcap">Jack Jouett's Ride</span></h3> + +<div class="poem"> +<div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Here goes to thee, Jack Jouett!<br /><br /></span> +<span class="i2">Lord keep thy memr'y green;<br /><br /></span> +<span class="i0">You made the greatest ride, sir,<br /><br /></span> +<span class="i2">That ever yet was seen."<br /><br /></span> +</div> +</div> + +<p>So reads the last stanza of an inscription on a tablet erected in +his memory. But who was Jack Jouett and what of his "greatest +ride?"</p> + +<p>During the stirring days of the American Revolution Thomas +Jefferson was Governor of Virginia. Hearing that the British +were expected to reach Richmond he recommended that the +capital of the colony be moved to Charlottesville until after +danger from the enemy should pass. This was done and Jefferson +stayed at his home, Monticello.</p> + +<p>At Cuckoo Tavern in Louisa County, fifty miles from Charlottesville, +young Jouett was sitting around one night getting the +latest news of the rebellion, when Tarleton, who commanded a +British force, came into the place. Jouett hid from sight and overheard +Tarleton talking with several other English officers. They +said they were impatient to be on their way to Monticello to +capture Jefferson, Patrick Henry and other Virginia leaders. Jack +stayed to hear the route they would take to Charlottesville and +then slipped away on his horse.</p> + +<p>The famous ride occurred on back roads in order to beat the +British to their destination. He crossed to the main road long +enough to tell a family of Walkers that the British were coming +for the Governor. Later Tarleton drew in at the same home and +demanded breakfast from Mrs. Walker. Knowing that time +meant a great deal to the rider going ahead with the news, she +delayed the meal as long as possible.</p> + +<p>As Jouett climbed the last hill to Monticello he heard the +horses of Tarleton's party in the distance, so he spurred his animal +on and in a last-minute sprint he reached the home. The plans +were revealed and Jefferson hurriedly assembled his family. As +their carriage left by a back road the English came up another and +searched in vain for the Governor.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[Pg 105]</a></span></p> + +<p>Jouett went from there to Charlottesville to warn the members +of the legislature of the impending danger and they fled to +Staunton—all but seven of the legislators who were overtaken +and captured. The story is told of how he saved General Stevens, +a member of the Assembly. As they rode along, some British +soldiers saw them and set their horses at a great pace. Jack had +on a plumed hat which might appear important to the soldiers; +he told the general to ride slowly across an open field as if he +were the owner out on an inspection tour of his lands. He himself +would dash off in the hope of getting the troopers to follow +him. The plan worked. Jouett finally left the pursuers far behind +and later on he returned to his home in Charlottesville.</p> + +<p>Much later the Virginia legislature passed a resolution commending +the valor of Jack Jouett and presented him with a pair +of pistols and a sword as a mark of appreciation of his service to +the State. Swan Tavern, left him by his father, occupied his time +after the war. He died in Kentucky where he had moved as an +old man.</p> + + +<h3><span class="smcap">Lewis and Clark Expedition</span></h3> + +<p>Thomas Jefferson knew the two young men whom he wanted to +explore the great Northwest, for they had been born almost at the +foot of Monticello. They were Meriwether Lewis and William +Clark. Each of them, almost as boys, had been a soldier and each +loved adventure.</p> + +<p>Meriwether Lewis had inherited a fortune from his father and +he could have settled down to a life of ease. But after eighteen +he would not go to school any longer. He had fought in the +Whiskey Rebellion in Pennsylvania and then entered the army. +He was commissioned captain in 1800 and served for three years. +Then Thomas Jefferson asked him to be his secretary and it was +in this office that Jefferson found his admirable qualities.</p> + +<p>William Clark was four years older than his friend Lewis. +He was born in 1770 and was a brother of George Rogers Clark. +When he was fourteen years old he went with his family to +the Ohio River where his brother George had built a fort. +There he learned the ways of the Indians and often he was in +the thick of their raids. He, too, joined the regular army and +received his commission when he was only eighteen years old.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">[Pg 106]</a></span> +He went to St. Louis and was commissioned as second lieutenant +of the artillery and ordered to join the great expedition.</p> + +<p>Captain Lewis was first in <a name="corr_11"></a><ins class="mycorr" title="Original: commond">command</ins> and he selected his men +carefully. There were fourteen soldiers in the little party and +two Canadian boatmen, an interpreter, a hunter and a Negro +servant.</p> + +<p>Thomas Jefferson did not give them a lot of orders. The following +instructions show his wisdom:</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>"Treat them (Indians) in the most friendly and concilliating manner +which their own conduct will admit; allay all jealousies as to the +object of your journey; satisfy them of its innocence; make them acquainted +with the position, extent, character, peaceable, and commercial +intercourse with them; confer with them on the points most convenient +as mutual emporiums and the articles of most desirable interchange for +them and us. If a few of their influential chiefs, within practicable +distance wish to visit us, arrange such a visit with them, and furnish +them with authority to call on our officers on their entering the United +States, to have them conveyed to this place at the public expense. If +any of them should wish to have some of their people brought up +with us and use such arts as may be useful to them, we will receive, +instruct, and take care of them."</p></div> + +<p>The fact that so little trouble was had by the party is due to +the skill which Clark used in handling the Indians. We will +not go into the details of the expedition, for everyone knows +what a wonderful, rich territory was gained for the United States +by that expedition.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Fredericksburg" id="Fredericksburg"></a>Fredericksburg</h2> + + +<p>Fredericksburg, fifty-five miles south of Washington and about +the same distance north of Richmond, Virginia, on Route 1, +rightly claims to be one of the most historic cities in the United +States. Visitors who make a tour of the Valley of Virginia and +the Skyline Drive may want to begin their trip here, for it +serves as a hub for long or short visits to neighboring places of +interest. From Fredericksburg one may drive to Culpeper, Sperryville +and Panorama and enter the Skyline Drive at that point, or +he may wish to go from Fredericksburg to Warrenton and thence +to the Skyline Drive. Another excellent route is by way of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">[Pg 107]</a></span> +Orange and Stanardsville and on to Swift Run Gap, the Southern +entrance to the Drive at the present time.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<img src="images/illus-115.jpg" width="400" height="584" alt=""Kenmore", the Home of Fielding Lewis and Betty Washington Lewis, +Fredericksburg, Virginia" title=""Kenmore", the Home of Fielding Lewis and Betty Washington Lewis, +Fredericksburg, Virginia" /> +<p class="caption">"Kenmore", the Home of Fielding Lewis and Betty Washington Lewis, +Fredericksburg, Virginia</p> +</div> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">[Pg 108]</a></span> +A splendid trip from this old city is to "Wakefield," the +birthplace of George Washington, in Westmoreland County, and +from there to "Stratford Hall," the ancestral home of the Lee +family and the birthplace of General Lee, both in Westmoreland +County. About two miles from Fredericksburg on this route is +"Ferry Farm" where George Washington spent a part of his +boyhood.</p> + +<p>In the city itself there are shrines to famous folks of an earlier +period. The home of Mary Washington, mother of the first +President, is open to the public. "Kenmore," former home of +Betty Washington Lewis and Colonel Fielding Lewis is well cared +for by an association. Both these homes have good examples of +eighteenth century furnishings. The Rising Sun Tavern was the +scene years ago of the Victory Ball after the surrender at Yorktown; +it was host to most of the famous men of Virginia and +neighboring States for years. In the Masonic Lodge are a number +of relics of Washington's time and an original Gilbert Stuart +portrait of the General. General Hugh Mercer, a noted physician +of the <a name="corr_12"></a><ins class="mycorr" title="Original: Reevolution">Revolution</ins> had his apothecary shop in Fredericksburg and +the visitor may see it upon request. Mary Washington's will is +on record at the courthouse here.</p> + +<p>On Charles Street in Fredericksburg, Virginia, stands a shrine +to the memory of James Monroe, who served his country in more +public offices than any other American in the history of the United +States. This quaint story-and-a-half brick building, which he +occupied from 1786 to 1788, was the only private law office in +which Monroe practiced his profession. It was built in 1758 and +stands in its original state, even to the woodwork and mantles of +the interior. Only the old brick floor and plastering had to be +restored. This was accomplished in 1928, when the building was +opened to the public as the first shrine to the memory of the fifth +President. At that time there was placed in it the largest number +of Monroe possessions in existence, handed down for five generations +in straight line to his descendants, who made the shrine +possible.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">[Pg 109]</a></span> +<img src="images/illus-117.jpg" width="600" height="436" alt="James Monroe's Law Office" title="James Monroe's Law Office" /> +<p class="caption">James Monroe's Law Office</p> +</div> + +<p>James Monroe brought his bride, the former Elizabeth Kortright +of New York, to Fredericksburg, and in the little shrine are +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[Pg 110]</a></span>hallowed intimate possessions of hers as well as those of her +distinguished husband; a wedding slipper, a dainty French fan; +two handsome court gowns, one of silver brocaded on white satin, +the other of cream colored taffeta, richly embroidered with dahlias +in natural colors; her bonnet and veil in which she welcomed +Lafayette on his return to the States in 1824; her lorgnette, which +must have added to the reputation she had for dignity; her Astor +piano and her silver service marked "J. M."</p> + +<p>Of Monroe's personal possessions there are many. Here too is +his court dress with its rare old lace, cut-steel buttons and knee +breeches, worn at Napoleon's court; the quaint huge umbrella +presented him by the City of Boston on the occasion of Lafayette's +return, with its original covering, whale-bone ribs and ivory handle, +all contributing to its weight of seven and one-half pounds; his +mahogany brass-bound dispatch box in which his Louisiana Purchase +papers were carried; his silver-mounted duelling pistols, +recalling that Monroe came near fighting a duel with Alexander +Hamilton; and other articles too numerous to mention, including +interesting historical letters by and to James Monroe from the +outstanding men of his day.</p> + +<p>Perhaps the outstanding exhibit in the Law Office shrine, however, +is the desk on which Monroe signed the message to Congress +which formed the basis for the famous Monroe Doctrine. +Mahogany, high, brass-bound, this handsome desk forms a part of +the furniture bought by the Monroes in France, brought by them +to this country in 1798, and now finally shown in the little +museum dedicated to their memory. The Monroes, being the first +to move into the rebuilt White House after the original one had +been burned by the British in the War of 1812, and being confronted +with empty rooms, took with them this lovely furniture. +Still later, on leaving the White House, the beloved possessions +again went with them, and it is to this fact that the happy privilege +of the public to see these things today can be attributed.</p> + +<p>More than a hundred years later, a successor of Mrs. Monroe +was to express her patriotism and interest in historical accuracy +through cataloguing and making inventories of the furnishings of +the White House. This lady, Mrs. Herbert Hoover, in searching +the records, learned of the Monroe furniture and of its ultimate +resting place in the Monroe shrine, and asked permission to copy<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">[Pg 111]</a></span> +it at Government expense, the copies to be placed in the White +House. Permission was gladly given and today there is a "Monroe +Room" in the White House, furnished with the reproductions +of this historic furniture. The originals, however, remain in the +little museum in Fredericksburg, relics of active, public years +spent by a great statesman on two continents.</p> + +<p>The Fredericksburg and Spotsylvania National Military Park +was established in 1927. Quoting from a booklet which may be +secured from the park headquarters we find:</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>"This park was established ... to commemorate six major battles +fought during the great sectional conflict between 1861 and 1865—the +two Battles of Fredericksburg, Chancellorsville, Salem Church, Wilderness, +and Spotsylvania Court House—and to preserve for historical +purposes the remains of earthworks, roads, and other sites of importance +on these battlefields...."</p></div> + +<p>At the Battle of Chancellorsville General Stonewall Jackson, +famous Confederate commander, was mortally wounded. A simple +shaft marks the place and a wild flower preserve is located +near it.</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>"While the fundamental purpose of the park is historical education, +its program is by no means confined to this limitation. It offers important +recreational and educational features aside from critical military +history. The Jackson Memorial Wild Flower Preserve ... affords +excellent instruction in botany.... The deep woodlands of the area +threaded with foot trails leading along the old trenches are a delight +to lovers of the outdoors...."</p></div> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Kenmore_1752" id="Kenmore_1752"></a>Kenmore—1752</h2> + + +<p>Kenmore, the home of Fielding Lewis and Betty Washington +Lewis (George Washington's only sister), is an outstanding +example of the architecture of Colonial Virginia. It is also intimately +connected with the stirring history of Colonial times and +with the life of George Washington.</p> + +<p>Augustine Washington, about 1739, moved from Hunting +Creek to Ferry Farm, across the river from Fredericksburg, with +his second wife, Mary Ball, and their five children—George, +Betty, Samuel, John Augustine, and Charles—for the sake of +community life and the religious and educational advantages it<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">[Pg 112]</a></span> +offered. Here the children grew up and received their education—Betty +at a "Dame School," George under the tutelage of Parson +Marye. Betty and George were especially intimate companions +because of their nearness of age and their similarity in personality +and character.</p> + +<p>When Betty was sixteen, and a "mannerly young maid," her +cousin Fielding Lewis came seeking her hand in marriage. Lewis +had come up from Gloucester three years previously with his wife +and son. Mrs. Lewis died in 1749. Shortly thereafter, Fielding +started courting young Betty. They were married in 1750, the +bride being given away by her brother George, and for a time they +lived on a plantation adjoining Ferry Farm. In 1752 Lewis +bought 861 acres of land, adjacent to Fredericksburg, the survey +being made by George Washington, who had been appointed +government surveyor in 1748. On this land, with its fine view +of the countryside, Lewis built Kenmore (called Millbrook +at the time) in accordance with a promise he had made to +his bride.</p> + +<p>As time went on, Fielding Lewis became closely associated with +the political life of Virginia. He was a member of the House of +Burgesses for many years. He also served in the French and +Indian War and was Colonel of the <a name="corr_13"></a><ins class="mycorr" title="Original: Spottsylvania">Spotsylvania</ins> County Militia. +It is said that the resolution endorsing Patrick Henry in his +resistance to the tyranny of Governor Dunmore, passed by the +Committee of 600 in the Rising Sun Tavern in Fredericksburg, +was written by him in the Great Room of his home, Kenmore, a +paper which for all intents and purposes was a declaration of +independence.</p> + +<p>Colonel Lewis was best known for the part he played in the War +of Independence. In 1776 he became Chairman of the Virginia +Committee of Safety. Previously, in 1775, the Virginia Assembly +had passed an ordinance providing for a "Manufactory of Small +Arms in Fredericksburg, Virginia." Five commissioners were appointed +to undertake this project, but Colonel Lewis and Charles +Dick were the only two who took an active part in the work. +They were allotted £2,500 with which to secure land, buildings +and equipment. Soon thereafter they were at work manufacturing<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">[Pg 113]</a></span> +arms. The first £2,500 were quickly spent, and Lewis and Dick +were obliged to draw from their own funds to carry on. Lewis +advanced an additional £7,000 and borrowed £30,000 to £40,000 +more. Lewis also built a ship for the Virginia Navy, <i>The Dragon</i>, +and equipped three regiments. Kenmore was heavily mortgaged +to meet the costs of all these patriotic enterprises. When Lewis +died in 1781, little of the estate was left.</p> + +<p>Thereafter, Betty Lewis tried conducting a small boarding +school at Kenmore, but again money had to be raised and piece +after piece of the land was sold to obtain it. Finally, in 1796, +the mansion and its contents were sold and Betty Lewis went to +live with her daughter. She died the next year.</p> + +<p>After many vicissitudes in the nineteenth and early twentieth +centuries, Kenmore was saved for posterity, in 1922, through the +great enthusiasm and hard work of a group of women who later +formed the Kenmore Association. Through the efforts of this +association, the exterior and the interiors of Kenmore were expertly +restored to their original charming appearance and it has been +furnished with original pieces of the period, many of which have +an actual connection with the family.</p> + +<p>Who the architect of Kenmore was, is unknown. It is very +probable that Fielding Lewis himself had much to do with the +planning of it, making use of books on English architecture. +The mansion is typical of the formal architecture of Tidewater +Virginia in the mid-eighteenth century. Flanked on each side by +smaller service buildings, both of which are identical in size and +appearance, the group is symmetrical around the central entrance. +The exteriors present a picture of fine restraint and dignity. Four +uniformly placed chimneys in the end walls serve eight fireplaces. +The windows are well proportioned in relation to the main walls. +The walls, of brick laid in Flemish bond, or brickwork pattern, +are two feet thick—unusually heavy construction for a house of +even this size.</p> + +<p>The principal rooms, of stately proportions, are remarkable for +their design and ornament. The richly modelled ceilings, cornices, +and overmantels are outstanding examples of ornamental plater-work—quite +unsurpassed by anything of its kind in America. It<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">[Pg 114]</a></span> +has always been said and never contradicted that these ornamental +features were planned by George Washington himself.</p> + +<p>To the right, as one enters the Reception Hall, tinted in pastel +blue-gray, is the well designed main stairway, a noteworthy feature +of which is the delicately carved lotus leaf ornament. In back is +the prized grandfather clock which originally belonged to Mary +Washington.</p> + +<p>Passing through the arched doorway at the rear of the Hall, one +enters the Great Room. For the magnificent ceiling of this room, +Colonel Lewis employed the same French decorator whom Washington +had employed for the ornamental ceilings at Mount +Vernon. The design motif includes four horns of plenty. Tradition +has it that the overmantel in the Great Room was done at a +later time than the other decorations by two Hessian soldiers +captured at the Battle of Trenton. The design, an adaptation of +Æsop's fable of the fox, the crow, and the piece of cheese, is +supposed to have been suggested by George Washington at the +request of his sister; this particular fable being chosen to teach his +nephews to beware of flattery. The rich red of the brocade +draperies contrasts with the light green of the walls and the white +of the ceiling and mantel. A crystal chandelier of old Waterford +glass forms a sparkling accent in the middle of the room. The +floor is covered almost entirely with an early eighteenth century +Oushak rug. The furniture in this room as well as elsewhere +generally is American of Chippendale design. Of particular note +are two portraits of Fielding, and two of Betty Lewis—all four +by Wollaston.</p> + +<p>The ceiling of the Library has the four seasons for its decorative +motif and the overmantel is a design of fruits and flowers. The +walls, like those of the Great Room, are tinted a soft green.</p> + +<p>"The Swan and Crown" of the Washington crest is carved in +the woodwork under the mantel in the Dining Room. The walls +are a deep blue-green, the woodwork a lighter matching shade. +Draperies are a soft green brocade. The service building on the +Dining Room side of the House contains the kitchen.</p> + +<p>On the second floor are the master bedrooms and guest room +where General Lafayette and many another distinguished visitor<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">[Pg 115]</a></span> +stayed. These eighteenth century rooms, so well treated and furnished, +serve as timeless models of good taste in bedrooms.</p> + +<p>Next to Mount Vernon, George Washington was most interested +in Kenmore. He had taken a keen interest from the beginning +in the building of the House and the landscaping of the +grounds. After the War he set out thirteen chestnut trees near +the House, one for each of the original thirteen States. One of +these still lives. Mary Washington, mother of George and Betty, +lived in the cottage on the estate, not far from the Main House; a +home her son had provided for her at the beginning of the War.</p> + +<p>The restoration of the grounds was undertaken by the Garden +Club of Virginia in 1929 with funds obtained from the public +participation in the first "Virginia Garden Week." One feature +of this work is the brick wall around the premises, built in 1930. +The sunken turf driveway is the original driveway that used to +surround a grassy circle. Handsome box bushes, ancient and +familiar features of Virginia estates, flank the approaches to the +House now as of old. The gardens, too, contain flowers that Betty +Washington must have enjoyed—bushes of lilac, mock orange, +and bridal wreath and beds of pansies, sweet william, phlox, +verbena and lilies of the valley.</p> + +<p>Kenmore, a background of those lives who helped so importantly +to mould the destinies of our nation, vividly portrays the art +and the culture of its time.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="The_Mary_Washington_House" id="The_Mary_Washington_House"></a>The Mary Washington House</h2> + + +<p>There stands on the corner of Charles and Lewis Streets in +Fredericksburg, Virginia, an unpretentious but charming little +house. There is no spot in America more sacred. It was the +home of Mary Ball Washington, wife of Augustine Washington, +and the mother of George Washington.</p> + +<p>It is recorded that on Dec. 8, 1761 lots 107 and 108 upon +which the Mary Washington House stands were sold by Fielding +Lewis and Betty, his wife, with all houses, trees, woods, under-woods, +profits commodities, hereditaments and appurtenances<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">[Pg 116]</a></span> +whatsoever, to Michael Robinson for £250 and bought by George +Washington Sept. 18, 1772 for £275.</p> + +<p>After remodeling and adding to the house, George Washington +moved his mother from the Ferry Farm, which had been her home +since 1739, to Fredericksburg and it was here that she spent her +last days.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/illus-124.jpg" width="600" height="432" alt=""The Mary Washington House", Fredericksburg, Virginia" title=""The Mary Washington House", Fredericksburg, Virginia" /> +<p class="caption">"The Mary Washington House", Fredericksburg, Virginia</p> +</div> + +<p>It was here that she received the courier sent by General +Washington to tell her of the victory at Trenton. It was here that +Washington came after the Battle of Yorktown with the French +and American officers and she received him with thanksgiving +after an absence of nearly seven years. It was here he came in +December, 1783, when Fredericksburg gave the Peace Ball in his +honor, and it was at that time that he made his memorable reply +to Mayor McWilliams in which he spoke of Fredericksburg as +"the place of my growing infancy."</p> + +<p>It was here that the Marquis de LaFayette came to pay his +respects to her, who was the mother of the greatest American. +She received him in her garden, met all his fine phrases with +dignity and gave him her blessing when he bade her goodbye.</p> + +<p>It was here, March 12, 1789, that Washington came to receive +his mother's blessing before he went on to New York to his<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">[Pg 117]</a></span> +inauguration. This was his last farewell to his mother. She did +not not live to see him again. It was here she died Aug. 25, 1789. +Town and country assembled to do honor at her burial. Her +remains lie near the "Meditation Rock" where she requested to +be buried and a stately monument "erected by her country-women" +marks her last resting place.</p> + +<p>Except for a portion of the house at Epping Forest, where she +was born, the Mary Washington House in Fredericksburg is the +only house now standing in which Mary Washington lived.</p> + +<p>It passed into various hands and finally in 1890 it was about to +be sold to the Chicago Exposition but through Mrs. Robert C. +Beale and Mrs. Spotswood W. Carmichael, the Association for +the Preservation of Virginia Antiquities was appealed to. Mrs. +Joseph Bryan of blessed memory was at that time President and +from her own means advanced the money to purchase it, $4,500, +and the place was saved.</p> + +<p>In 1929, through the generosity of Mr. George A. Ball of +Muncie, Ind., the first work of restoration on the house was done. +Mr. Ball also purchased for the A. P. V. A. the adjoining house +and garden for a home for the custodian.</p> + +<p>In 1930 the house was redecorated and refurnished by Mr. and +Mrs. Francis P. Garvan. The original colors have been restored +and contemporary fabrics used for all draperies and coverings.</p> + +<p>The furnishings, with the exception of a few pieces that belonged +to Mary Washington, are authentic antiques loaned from +the Mabel Brady Garvan Institute of American Arts and Crafts at +Yale University. The original mantels and paneling are interesting.</p> + +<p>The old English-type garden is especially beautiful. The boxwood +she planted still grows there, as well as the flowers of her +time. The original sun-dial still marks the sunny hours.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Rising_Sun_Tavern" id="Rising_Sun_Tavern"></a>Rising Sun Tavern</h2> + + +<p>Was built about 1760 by Charles Washington, a brother of +George Washington. It was first known as the Washington +Tavern and later as the Eagle Tavern. The following advertise<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">[Pg 118]</a></span>ment +appeared in the <i>Virginia Gazette</i>, published in Williamsburg +in 1776:</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p> <span class="rpos">"<span class="smcap">Falmouth</span>, <i>March 25, 1776</i>.</span></p> + +<p>"William Smith takes this method to acquaint his friends, and the +publick in general, that he intends to open tavern, on Monday the +22nd day of April next, in the house lately occupied by Colonel +George Weedon, in the town of Fredericksburg. He has laid in a +good stock of liquors, and will use his utmost endeavors to give general +satisfaction. N.B. 'A good cook wench wanted, on hire'."</p></div> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/illus-126.jpg" width="600" height="431" alt=""Rising Sun Tavern", Fredericksburg, Virginia" title=""Rising Sun Tavern", Fredericksburg, Virginia" /> +<p class="caption">"Rising Sun Tavern", Fredericksburg, Virginia</p> +</div> + +<p>It was the favorite meeting place of such patriots as Thomas +Jefferson, Patrick Henry, James Monroe, George Washington, +General Hugh Mercer, George Mason, John Marshall, the Lees, +and other noted men, who gathered here to protest against unjust +treatment by the mother country and to discuss the proper steps to +rid the country of tyranny. It was said to be a hot-bed of sedition +and that here much of the head work of the Revolution was done.</p> + +<p>When the news came to Fredericksburg that the governor, Lord +Dunmore, had secretly removed twenty barrels of gunpowder +from the public magazine in Williamsburg, also the news of the +battle of Lexington, there was great excitement and indignation. +Immediately six hundred armed men from the town and surrounding +country, at the call of Patrick Henry, assembled in Fredericks<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">[Pg 119]</a></span>burg +and offered their services to defend their country. More than +one hundred men were dispatched to Richmond and Williamsburg +to ascertain the condition of affairs. They were advised there by +Washington, Peyton Randolph, Edmund Pendleton and other +leaders to disband and delay action at least for a while or until +general plans of resistance could be decided upon. Returning to +Fredericksburg they called a meeting and reluctantly agreed to +disperse, but before doing so adopted resolutions bitterly denouncing +Dunmore's action, and without fear or evasion declared that +the troops would preserve their liberty at the hazard of their lives +and fortune. They pledged themselves to re-assemble at a moment's +warning and by force of arms defend the laws and rights +of this or any other sister colony from unjust invasion, and concluded +with the significant words, "God save the liberties of +America."</p> + +<p>This was on April 29, 1775, twenty-one days prior to the +celebrated Mecklenburg declaration and more than one year before +the great Declaration of Independence of July 4, 1776.</p> + +<p>It has always been said that this meeting was held at the Rising +Sun Tavern. (Reference: Quinn's <i>History of Fredericksburg</i>, +Howison's <i>History of Virginia</i>, Forces' <i>Archives</i>, quoted in <i>William +and Mary Quarterly</i> in October, 1909.)</p> + +<p>But in addition to giving their attention to the serious questions +of the day, could we but raise the curtain of Time we no doubt +would witness a gay scene typical of colonial days with courtly +gentlemen in powdered wigs, knee breeches, ruffled blouses, and +silver-buckled slippers, or perhaps in the rougher garb of the +pioneer traveler playing cards and partaking of the various drinks +served by a venerable old slave and his young negro assistants. +It is recorded that George Washington played cards here and +"lost as usual," and that he was afraid those Fredericksburg +fellows were "too smart for him."</p> + +<p>Here General Weedon kept the post office. This was a distributing +point for mails coming in from the far north and south +on horse-back or stage-coach. Picture the eager crowd awaiting +the arrival of the slow courier.</p> + +<p>LaFayette and his staff of French and American officers visited +the Rising Sun Tavern Nov. 11, 1781, en route from Yorktown<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">[Pg 120]</a></span> +to Philadelphia. In December, 1824, LaFayette again visited +Fredericksburg, and was given a ball at the Rising Sun Tavern.</p> + +<p>In 1907 the Association for the Preservation of Virginia +Antiquities bought the property from Judge A. W. Wallace, +whose family had owned it since 1792. It was in a very bad state +of dilapidation, and only the loving interest and hard work of a +few patriotic ladies made possible the necessary repairs and saved +to posterity this historic old building with its wealth of associations +with the people and events which shaped our nation.</p> + +<p>The Association for the Preservation of Virginia Antiquities +has recently completed extensive repairs and the visitor will find +it one of the most interesting places in the city to visit. It is +attractively furnished with antique pieces of the Colonial period, +many having great historic value.</p> + +<p>One may see a desk owned and used by Thomas Jefferson, a +chair which belonged to James Monroe, a rare copy of an autographed +letter from Mary Washington to her son George Washington, +brass andirons, pewter-hooded candles, Betty lamp, immense +iron key for a wine cellar, brass candle-sticks, iron candle +snuffers, pewter ink-well, antique piano, high boy, needle-point +sampler worked by a nine-year-old child, spinning wheel and reel, +stage coach sign dated 1775, large early American desk, old iron +cooking utensils used by slaves cooking by an open fireplace, and +many other interesting things.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<img src="images/deco-128.jpg" width="600" height="109" alt="" title="" /> +</div> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">[Pg 121]</a></span></p> +<h2><a name="Roanoke" id="Roanoke"></a>Roanoke</h2> + +<h3><span class="smcap">The Gateway To the Great Southwestern Empire</span></h3> + + +<p>Raw-re-noke is an Indian word for money. The city of Roanoke +was originally a land grant to Thomas Tosh, an old settler who +came to "Big Lick" and settled there after King George II and +King George III had granted him sixteen hundred acres of land +along that fertile valley. "Big Lick" was a favorite spot for the +wild game and for the Indians too, for there they found the salt +so necessary to life itself. One of Tosh's daughters married +General Andrew Lewis and became the mother of Major Andrew +Lewis and Thomas Lewis.</p> + +<p>Later on, as more settlers came into the valley, quite a village +grew up around "Big Lick" and in 1874 it was incorporated with +John Trout as Mayor. Then in 1881 the village woke up. Saws +and hammers were heard from dawn 'til dusk. The Roanoke +Machine Works were being built. Nearby, stores and houses were +springing up, warehouses and boarding-houses. Surveyors were +laying off lots and laying out streets. Contractors and engineers, +artisans and mechanics were coming in every day. The men who +sold supplies for all of these were indeed busy. The Norfolk +and Western Railroad had come to Roanoke!</p> + +<p>Old folks can still remember when rabbits ran over the grounds +where stands the Hotel Roanoke. Small boys picked up Indian +arrow-heads where now the beautiful grounds sweep down to the +Station itself. They still tell how Salem Avenue was once a +marsh and was later filled in for the fast growing town. Then +came the union of the Norfolk and Western and the Shenandoah +Valley Railroads. From that day to this, Roanoke has been the +"Magic City." It was as if some magic wand had been waved +over the one-time little village. But actually it was due to the +industry and vision of the city planners who had built for the +future. Commercial, manufacturing and industrial activities kept +a pace ahead of the fast growing town. Among the first of these +were the American Bridge Works and the rolling mills, iron +works, West End Furnaces and the Virginia Brewing Company.</p> + +<p>Long ago "Big Lick" was known to a few. It was situated +in the Blue Ridge Mountains, surrounded by rolling valleys and +watered by springs of crystal clear waters. Other streams made<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">[Pg 122]</a></span> +it an ideal place for the herds of buffalo and elk which roamed +up and down the Valley of the Great Spirit. Indians came, too, +to hunt them and thousands of smaller fur-bearing animals and +birds for their feasts.</p> + +<p>When the sturdy settlers from Ireland and Scotland came to +seek a new home in the wilderness, they chose to follow the +Great Road which later was known as the Wilderness Road. This +led them along the beautiful valleys and across the mountains; +soon tiny cabins, churches and crude taverns were being built.</p> + +<p>Near where Fincastle stands today, there came a man years ago +from Ireland, Thomas King. He had left behind his second wife, +Easter, three children by his first wife, and several younger ones +by Easter. He had come to make a home for them in Fincastle +County and ran a tavern near where Roanoke stands today.</p> + +<p>Then Easter wrote him that his oldest son, William, had arrived +in Philadelphia and was working for a merchant. He was peddling +merchandise and liked the new country.</p> + +<p>Thomas was delighted and eager to see his fourteen-year-old +son. He saddled his own horse and led a pony all the miles +down the long Valley trail. He passed such settlements as Staunton, +Lexington, Winchester, Hagerstown, camping out or, stopping +at some settler's house over-night. It took weeks for him +to make the long trip.</p> + +<p>The merchant in the meantime realized he had a smart salesman +in William and he made a bargain with him a few days +before his father arrived. He asked him not to work for anyone +else and set a time limit for his employment with him.</p> + +<p>We can imagine how William felt when his father came, +bringing a pony for him to ride back to Virginia. But he kept his +word. He continued to go out with his peddler's pack on his +back and his bright smile and polite manners helped him to sell +his wares long before others sold theirs. The merchant told +him he could go peddling to Virginia and that he could leave +some of his articles in his father's tavern. William did this, +leaving them at other taverns along the Great Road, too. And +thus began the early chain stores.</p> + +<p>When the pioneers began going on farther down the Southwestern +part of Virginia, Thomas King went as far as where +Abingdon stands today. He sent William back to Ireland for his<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">[Pg 123]</a></span> +step-mother and his brothers and sisters. William now had a +little money and he inherited some from his grandmother, so he +not only brought his family over, but he paid for several other +Scotch-Irish and charged a little extra as interest until they could +repay him.</p> + +<p>He liked the people and the lovely country around Abingdon +and bought land and built himself a home there. He went to +see the salt marsh a few miles away where Saltville is now. +This land was owned by General Russell. William urged him +to develop the marsh, for at one time Indians had come there to +get salt to preserve their game. But General Russell did not think +much of the plan, and agreed to sell it to William.</p> + +<p>The story of how he laughed, along with others, at William +King when he dug and dug and did not find the salt spring is +often told. But when William's men had dug for one hundred +and ninety feet the "bottom dropped out" and the salt water +gushed forth. William made thirty thousand dollars a year out of +his salt business and left a fortune to his many nieces and nephews.</p> + +<p>Roanoke is the gateway through which the visitor continues +down the famous Valley Pike, Route Eleven. From every curve +in the road one sees the beauty of nature. One learns bits of +early history from the numerous historic signs along the route—for +every footstep of the brave pioneers was bitterly contested +from here on.</p> + +<p>These first settlers were "a remarkable race of people for +intelligence, enterprise and hardy adventure." They had come +partly from Botetourt, Augusta and Frederick counties and from +Maryland and Pennsylvania. They wanted liberty and freedom to +worship God as a man's conscience dictated. They were a strong, +stern people, simple in their habits of life, God-fearing in their +practices, freedom-loving and good neighbors, yet unmerciful in +their dealing with their enemies. Who were the trail blazers for +these Scotch-Irish and Germans?</p> + +<p>Dr. Thomas Walker qualified as a surveyor of Augusta County +in 1748. He later set off with Colonel James Wood, Colonel +James Patton, Colonel John Buchanan, and Major Charles Campbell, +some hunters and John Finlay to explore southwest Virginia.</p> + +<p>They were followed as far as New River by Thomas Ingles +(or Engles) and his three sons, a Mrs. Draper and her son<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">[Pg 124]</a></span> +George and her daughter Mary, Adam Harman, Henry Leonard +and James Burke. They were pioneers in search of new homes +in the wilderness. Lands were surveyed for all of them on +Wood's River and they made the first settlement west of the +Alleghany Divide.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Drapers_Meadow" id="Drapers_Meadow"></a>Draper's Meadow</h2> + + +<p>In 1748 Thomas Ingles and his three sons, Mrs. Draper, her +children and James Burke moved westward to find a new home +for themselves beyond the Blue Ridge Mountains. They chose +a lovely spot on a high level plateau in what is now Montgomery +County. They called their new home, "Draper's Meadow," and +soon their new log cabins were built and their first crops were +planted and such a harvest as they reaped that first year! Other +neighbors and relatives from their old homes came to join them +and for some time all went well in the little settlement. James +Burke had been restless and had pushed on down into the southwest +and settled in a valley enclosed for almost ten miles by the +huge Clinch Mountain. This he called "Burke's Garden" and in +telling others about it the old settler said "I have indeed found +the Garden of Eden."</p> + +<p>The Indians were very friendly and passed and repassed the +settlement without molesting them.</p> + +<p>Then came the trouble with the French which has been referred +to before. The Indians swooped down upon Draper's Meadow +without warning and killed or wounded most of the settlers. +Those whom they did not murder, they carried off into captivity. +Among the latter were Mrs. William Ingles (née Mary Draper) +some of her children and another woman. They were forced to +march for days at a time until they finally reached the Indian +towns on the Ohio River. During the trying days, Mrs. Draper +did her best to keep in the good graces of the Indians. She tried +to help them, even after they took her sons from her. When they +reached Big Bone Lick she helped to make salt for the Indians +and made shirts for them from cloth which had been bought from +the French traders.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">[Pg 125]</a></span></p> + +<p>She often thought of her home over seven hundred miles from +the Indian towns and determined to make her escape. She confided +her resolves to the other woman who at first objected to +going. At last she convinced her the time was at hand, if ever, +for them to leave. She left her infant son one night, and with +her friend, stole away from the camp. They lived for days on +berries and nuts. They finally killed small game and after many +adventures reached the home of a settler forty long days later.</p> + +<p>Mrs. Draper's friend lost her mind, tried to kill her and then +left her. Mrs. Draper reached the homestead of Adam Harmon +on New River. There he heard her crying in his cornfield and +went out to see who it was in such distress. He and his family +cared for her and made her rest before she was taken back to +her family.</p> + +<p>The Ingles families moved up higher on New River and built +another fort near the present city of Radford, Virginia. This was +at Ingle's Ferry.</p> + +<p>Botetourt County was cut from Albemarle in 1770, and William +Preston was made surveyor of the lands. This was a well-paying +position. He had fallen in love with Miss Susannah Smith +who lived in Eastern Virginia in Hanover County. He built a +house for her and called it Smithfield in her honor. Soon the +Pattons, Peytons, Prestons, the Thompsons and many others were +coming to build homes near them.</p> + +<p>When the Prestons moved to Smithfield they took a young +orphan boy with them, Joseph Cloyd. His father had died when +he was very little and his mother had been killed by the Indians. +He grew up with the other pioneer boys and girls and later settled +on Back Creek. This home is near where Pulaski stands today and +thus began another settlement. He was the father of General +Gordon Cloyd and they founded a long line of honorable citizens +in our country.</p> + +<p>As one goes on he hears many strange tales of other explorers +and settlers. For instance there is the sad story of Colonel John +Chiswell who found rich lead mines near New River in what is +now Wythe County. For some unknown reason, he had killed +a man in a personal encounter and was put in jail to await trial.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">[Pg 126]</a></span> +<img src="images/illus-134.jpg" width="600" height="221" alt="Scenic Highway in Southwest Virginia" title="Scenic Highway in Southwest Virginia" /> +<p class="attrib">—<i>Courtesy Virginia State Chamber of Commerce</i></p> +<p class="caption">Scenic Highway in Southwest Virginia</p> +</div> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">[Pg 127]</a></span> +In the meantime, the Virginia Council decided to develop the +mines and a fort was ordered to be built. Before the trial came +off and before the fort was built, Colonel Chiswell died.</p> + +<p>Colonel William Boyd was made supervisor of the building of +the fort and he named it for his friend, Colonel Chiswell. Soon +settlers began building homes around it, for the climate and rich +grazing lands made it an ideal spot for homesteads.</p> + +<p>The settlers pushing southwest from Roanoke built a fort and +named it for a Mr. Vass. The Indians attacked them and several +were killed. This was near where Christiansburg is now located. +It was near Vass's Fort that General Washington, Major Andrew +Lewis and Captain William Preston had a narrow escape from an +attack by the Indians.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Washington_County" id="Washington_County"></a>Washington County</h2> + + +<p>In 1754 only six families were living in the early settlement +west of New River. Two of these were in Pulaski, two on +Cripple Creek in Wythe County, one in Smyth County and the +Burke family in what is now Tazewell County. The Indians gave +the settlers so much trouble that any further attempts to settle was +given up until after the French and Indian War.</p> + +<p>A small fort, called Black's Fort, was built when the settlers +moved into the Valley around where Abingdon stands. Like most +of its kind, it was built of logs, and a few log cabins were built +within the stockade. Here to these cabins within the fort came +the settlers whenever the warning reached them that the Indians +were coming.</p> + +<p>Near the fort lived Parson Cummings, called the Fighting +Parson. He was an Irishman who had come to the Valley from +Lancaster, Pennsylvania. He fought against the Cherokee Indians +in 1776 with Colonel Christian. He first settled in Fincastle, but +soon drifted farther south. It was he who drafted the Fincastle +Resolutions on January 20, 1775 and served on the Committee of +Safety for Washington County.</p> + +<p>On one occasion, when the settlers were residing within the +fort, food became very scarce. Someone had to go back into the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">[Pg 128]</a></span> +clearing and bring in supplies. Parson Cummings and a few +other men started off with a wagon to get them. They had not +gone far when they reached Piper's Hill. A party of Indians +surprised the little band and one of them was killed. Everyone +made a dash for the bushes. The Parson was very stout and he +was wearing a large powdered wig which was considered in those +days necessary to the cloth. This made him more conspicuous and +of course a target for the Indians.</p> + +<p>One Indian ran after him, brandishing his tomahawk. The +Parson dodged under a bush and as he left it, his wig was caught +by a low hanging limb. The Indian took for granted that it was +the Parson's head and made a bound to get it. When he took it +in his hands, he was surprised to find no head there! He was +disgusted and angry and threw it upon the ground exclaiming, +"D—d lie," and doggedly gave up the chase. And thus the +Parson escaped. The man who was killed was later buried in +Abingdon and one may read his name, "William Creswell, July 4, +1776" on the crude stone which marks his grave.</p> + +<p>Dragon Canone was the name of the Cherokee Indian who led +his warriors against the white militia. Both white and red men +fought with tomahawks and both hid behind trees. Sometimes +this brave militia went forth to battle without any higher commanding +officer than captain. Three such officers were John +Campbell, James Shelby and James Thompson.</p> + +<p>Let us look for a moment at what those settlers were denied. +They did not have flour or salt until an order was made:</p> + +<div class="blockquot"><p>"Jan. 29, 1777. Ordered that William Campbell, William Edmundson, +John Anderson and George Blackburn be appointed commissioners +to hire wagons to bring up the county salt, allotted by the Governor +and council, and to receive and distribute the same agreeably to said +order of the council."</p></div> + +<p>Later on Colonel Arthur Campbell rode with seven hundred +mounted soldiers against the Cherokees. History gives him the +credit of being the first to experiment in attacking Indians on +horseback. He destroyed fourteen of their towns and burnt fifty +thousand bushels of their corn after giving his men enough for +their own horses.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_129" id="Page_129">[Pg 129]</a></span></p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="Hungry_Mother_State_Park" id="Hungry_Mother_State_Park"></a>Hungry Mother State Park</h2> + + +<p>The pathetic legend is told of the pioneer woman in Tazewell +County who was carried off by the Indians and was massacred +some distance from home. Her small child was left to die of +exposure and starvation in the mountain wilds and was at last +rescued by a hunting party. The child was pulling at the mother's +body, trying to rouse her and was muttering, "Hungry, mother—hungry, +mother" when he was found.</p> + +<p>That is the origin of the name of the mountain which is not +far from Marion, and the peak of the mountain is called "Molly's +Knob" in memory of the pioneer mother.</p> + +<p>The State has created a beautiful park on Hungry Mother +Mountain. Cabins have been erected to house the visitors, a +stream has been dammed up to provide a lake—and most astonishing +of all to the mountain folk who enjoy their park is the sandy +beach. The sand was hauled 375 miles from Virginia Beach to +its present location.</p> + +<p>Swimming, sailing and canoeing are popular water sports; +saddle horses are available and hiking is a favorite occupation. +Ample picnic grounds have been provided. Crowds from nearby +towns enjoy a day at the Park and the cabins are in great demand +from the vacationists in Virginia and surrounding States.</p> + + + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="White_Top" id="White_Top"></a>White Top</h2> + + +<p>Iron Mountain has lost that name and today is known far and +near as White Top. The visitor looks down five thousand feet +below and can see into Tennessee, West Virginia, North Carolina +and Kentucky. The top is bald, rocky and about three +hundred of its sloping acres are covered with a fine white grass. +In summer one sees hundreds of wild flowers, sturdy evergreens, +similar to Norway spruce, called Lashhorns, berries and many +small animals.</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">[Pg 130]</a></span> +<img src="images/illus-138.jpg" width="600" height="387" alt="Hungry Mother State Park" title="Hungry Mother State Park" /> +<p class="attrib">—<i>Courtesy Virginia Conservation Commission</i></p> +<p class="caption">Hungry Mother State Park</p> +</div> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">[Pg 131]</a></span> +Wilbur Waters, the hermit, is one of the most colorful characters +in the great Southwest and many adventures he had with wild +animals. Wilbur's mother was an Indian who died when he was +very small. His father, who lived in North Carolina at the time, +apprenticed the boy to a shoemaker to learn that trade. The little +boy, no doubt homesick, could not stand his new home. He ran +away and from that time on made his own living. When he heard +how the wolves were making havoc for the settlers in and around +Abingdon, he came to get the rewards offered for their heads. He +built himself a rude shack on White Top, and if one would read +real adventure tales, let him read <i>Wilbur Waters</i> which relates +many stirring ones.</p> + +<p>Every summer during August a festival is held at White Top +where mountain music is played and folk dances are held. John +Powell, the noted Virginia composer, is especially active in the +preservation of folk music and he has been instrumental in +attracting people of influence to the celebration.</p> + +<p>The major highways lead to within a comparatively short +distance of White Top and the State Highway Department +assures the traveler of good secondary roads which are passable +in any kind of weather.</p> + +<p>Another feature of the festival usually is the presentation of at +least one play by the group of Broadway players who summer at +Abingdon and conduct the famous "Barter Theatre."</p> + +<p>Visitors who include White Top and the Barter players in their +itinerary will be delighted with the diversified entertainments +found there.</p> + + + +<div class="tnote"><a name="corrections" id="corrections"></a> +<h2><a name="Transcribers_Note" id="Transcribers_Note"></a>Transcriber's Note.</h2> + + +<p>The following typographical errors have been corrected:</p> + +<p>p. <a href="#corr_1">2</a> a brace of deer ran familiarly [had 'familarly']</p> +<p>p. <a href="#corr_2">24</a> the Reverend Samuel Brown [had 'Reverened']</p> +<p>p. <a href="#corr_3">31</a> the Blue Ridge and the Alleghany [had 'Alleghaney']</p> +<p>p. <a href="#corr_4">47</a> been made into a poultice [had 'poultrice']</p> +<p>p. <a href="#corr_5">49</a> wagon makers? Of course there were none [had 'Af']</p> +<p>p. <a href="#corr_6">60</a> Luray is the Saltpetre Cave. [had 'Saltpeper']</p> +<p>p. <a href="#corr_7">61</a> no one anticipated the conspicuous rôle [had 'conspicious']</p> +<p>p. <a href="#corr_8">80</a> point: Rockfish and Shenandoah valleys. [Closing . added]</p> +<p>p. <a href="#corr_9">83</a> Bridge, and some are still in existence [had 'existance']</p> +<p>p. <a href="#corr_10">103</a> the Statute of Virginia for religious freedom [had 'Statue']</p> +<p>p. <a href="#corr_11">106</a> Captain Lewis was first in command and he [had 'commond']</p> +<p>p. <a href="#corr_12">108</a> of the Revolution had his apothecary shop [had 'Reevolution']</p> +<p>p. <a href="#corr_13">112</a> Colonel of the Spotsylvania County Militia [had 'Spottsylvania']</p> +<p>Inconsistent hyphenation of some words in the original has been +retained.</p> +</div> + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Legends of the Skyline Drive and the +Great Valley of Virginia, by Carrie Hunter Willis and Etta Belle Walker + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK LEGENDS OF THE SKYLINE DRIVE *** + +***** This file should be named 33018-h.htm or 33018-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/3/3/0/1/33018/ + +Produced by Mark C. 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