diff options
| author | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-15 05:20:40 -0700 |
|---|---|---|
| committer | Roger Frank <rfrank@pglaf.org> | 2025-10-15 05:20:40 -0700 |
| commit | cf8632c525e3ec45f38e952e2cfb5aca3189339f (patch) | |
| tree | 3d1d281b6b3a8ed368d733349c8308e3c95318b8 /3182-h | |
Diffstat (limited to '3182-h')
| -rw-r--r-- | 3182-h/3182-h.htm | 2255 |
1 files changed, 2255 insertions, 0 deletions
diff --git a/3182-h/3182-h.htm b/3182-h/3182-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..37af2ba --- /dev/null +++ b/3182-h/3182-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,2255 @@ +<?xml version="1.0" encoding="utf-8"?> + +<!DOCTYPE html + PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd" > + +<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" lang="en"> + <head> + <title> + Some Rambling Notes of an Idle Excursion, by Mark Twain + </title> + <style type="text/css" xml:space="preserve"> + + body { margin:5%; background:#faebd7; text-align:justify} + P { text-indent: 1em; margin-top: .25em; margin-bottom: .25em; } + H1,H2,H3,H4,H5,H6 { text-align: center; margin-left: 15%; margin-right: 15%; } + hr { width: 50%; text-align: center;} + .foot { margin-left: 20%; margin-right: 20%; text-align: justify; text-indent: -3em; font-size: 90%; } + blockquote {font-size: 97%; font-style: italic; margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%;} + .mynote {background-color: #DDE; color: #000; padding: .5em; margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; font-family: sans-serif; font-size: 95%;} + .toc { margin-left: 10%; margin-bottom: .75em;} + .toc2 { margin-left: 20%;} + div.fig { display:block; margin:0 auto; text-align:center; } + .figleft {float: left; margin-left: 0%; margin-right: 1%;} + .figright {float: right; margin-right: 0%; margin-left: 1%;} + pre { font-style: italic; font-size: 90%; margin-left: 10%;} + +</style> + </head> + <body> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Some Rambling Notes of an Idle Excursion +by Mark Twain (Samuel Clemens) + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Some Rambling Notes of an Idle Excursion + +Author: Mark Twain (Samuel Clemens) + +Release Date: August 19, 2006 [EBook #3182] +Last Updated: May 25, 2018 + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: UTF-8 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK RAMBLING NOTES *** + + + +Produced by David Widger + + + + + +</pre> + <h1> + SOME RAMBLING NOTES<br />OF AN IDLE EXCURSION + </h1> + <p> + <br /><br /> + </p> + <h2> + by Mark Twain + </h2> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <p> + <br /> <br /> + </p> + <hr /> + <p> + <br /> <br /> <a name="link2H_4_0001" id="link2H_4_0001"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + I. + </h2> + <p> + All the journeyings I had ever done had been purely in the way of + business. The pleasant May weather suggested a novelty namely, a trip for + pure recreation, the bread-and-butter element left out. The Reverend said + he would go, too; a good man, one of the best of men, although a + clergyman. By eleven at night we were in New Haven and on board the New + York boat. We bought our tickets, and then went wandering around here and + there, in the solid comfort of being free and idle, and of putting + distance between ourselves and the mails and telegraphs. + </p> + <p> + After a while I went to my stateroom and undressed, but the night was too + enticing for bed. We were moving down the bay now, and it was pleasant to + stand at the window and take the cool night breeze and watch the gliding + lights on shore. Presently, two elderly men sat down under that window and + began a conversation. Their talk was properly no business of mine, yet I + was feeling friendly toward the world and willing to be entertained. I + soon gathered that they were brothers, that they were from a small + Connecticut village, and that the matter in hand concerned the cemetery. + Said one: + </p> + <p> + “Now, John, we talked it all over amongst ourselves, and this is + what we’ve done. You see, everybody was a-movin’ from the old + buryin’-ground, and our folks was ’most about left to + theirselves, as you may say. They was crowded, too, as you know; lot wa’n’t + big enough in the first place; and last year, when Seth’s wife died, + we couldn’t hardly tuck her in. She sort o’ overlaid Deacon + Shorb’s lot, and he soured on her, so to speak, and on the rest of + us, too. So we talked it over, and I was for a lay out in the new simitery + on the hill. They wa’n’t unwilling, if it was cheap. Well, the + two best and biggest plots was No. 8 and No. 9—both of a size; nice + comfortable room for twenty-six—twenty-six full-growns, that is; but + you reckon in children and other shorts, and strike an average, and I + should say you might lay in thirty, or maybe thirty-two or three, pretty + genteel—no crowdin’ to signify.” + </p> + <p> + “That’s a plenty, William. Which one did you buy?” + </p> + <p> + “Well, I’m a-comin’ to that, John. You see, No. 8 was + thirteen dollars, No. 9 fourteen—” + </p> + <p> + “I see. So’s’t you took No. 8.” + </p> + <p> + “You wait. I took No. 9. And I’ll tell you for why. In the + first place, Deacon Shorb wanted it. Well, after the way he’d gone + on about Seth’s wife overlappin’ his prem’ses, I’d + ’a’ beat him out of that No. 9 if I’d ’a’ + had to stand two dollars extra, let alone one. That’s the way I felt + about it. Says I, what’s a dollar, anyway? Life’s on’y a + pilgrimage, says I; we ain’t here for good, and we can’t take + it with us, says I. So I just dumped it down, knowin’ the Lord don’t + suffer a good deed to go for nothin’, and cal’latin’ to + take it out o’ somebody in the course o’ trade. Then there was + another reason, John. No. 9's a long way the handiest lot in the simitery, + and the likeliest for situation. It lays right on top of a knoll in the + dead center of the buryin’ ground; and you can see Millport from + there, and Tracy’s, and Hopper Mount, and a raft o’ farms, and + so on. There ain’t no better outlook from a buryin’-plot in + the state. Si Higgins says so, and I reckon he ought to know. Well, and + that ain’t all. ’Course Shorb had to take No. 8; wa’n’t + no help for ’t. Now, No. 8 jines onto No. 9, but it’s on the + slope of the hill, and every time it rains it ’ll soak right down + onto the Shorbs. Si Higgins says ’t when the deacon’s time + comes, he better take out fire and marine insurance both on his remains.” + </p> + <p> + Here there was the sound of a low, placid, duplicate chuckle of + appreciation and satisfaction. + </p> + <p> + “Now, John, here’s a little rough draft of the ground that I’ve + made on a piece of paper. Up here in the left-hand corner we’ve + bunched the departed; took them from the old graveyard and stowed them one + alongside o’ t’other, on a first-come-first-served plan, no + partialities, with Gran’ther Jones for a starter, on’y because + it happened so, and windin’ up indiscriminate with Seth’s + twins. A little crowded towards the end of the lay-out, maybe, but we + reckoned ’twa’n’t best to scatter the twins. Well, next + comes the livin’. Here, where it’s marked A, we’re goin’ + to put Mariar and her family, when they’re called; B, that’s + for Brother Hosea and hisn; C, Calvin and tribe. What’s left is + these two lots here—just the gem of the whole patch for general + style and outlook; they’re for me and my folks, and you and yourn. + Which of them would you ruther be buried in?” + </p> + <p> + “I swan, you’ve took me mighty unexpected, William! It sort of + started the shivers. Fact is, I was thinkin’ so busy about makin’ + things comfortable for the others, I hadn’t thought about being + buried myself.” + </p> + <p> + “Life’s on’y a fleetin’ show, John, as the sayin’ + is. We’ve all got to go, sooner or later. To go with a clean record’s + the main thing. Fact is, it’s the on’y thing worth strivin’ + for, John.” + </p> + <p> + “Yes, that’s so, William, that’s so; there ain’t + no getting around it. Which of these lots would you recommend?” + </p> + <p> + “Well, it depends, John. Are you particular about outlook?” + </p> + <p> + “I don’t say I am, William, I don’t say I ain’t. + Reely, I don’t know. But mainly, I reckon, I’d set store by a + south exposure.” + </p> + <p> + “That’s easy fixed, John. They’re both south exposure. + They take the sun, and the Shorbs get the shade.” + </p> + <p> + “How about sile, William?” + </p> + <p> + “D’s a sandy sile, E’s mostly loom.” + </p> + <p> + “You may gimme E, then; William; a sandy sile caves in, more or + less, and costs for repairs.” + </p> + <p> + “All right, set your name down here, John, under E. Now, if you don’t + mind payin’ me your share of the fourteen dollars, John, while we’re + on the business, everything’s fixed.” + </p> + <p> + After some higgling and sharp bargaining the money was paid, and John bade + his brother good night and took his leave. There was silence for some + moments; then a soft chuckle welled up from the lonely William, and he + muttered: “I declare for ’t, if I haven’t made a + mistake! It’s D that’s mostly loom, not E. And John’s + booked for a sandy sile after all.” + </p> + <p> + There was another soft chuckle, and William departed to his rest also. + </p> + <p> + The next day, in New York, was a hot one. Still we managed to get more or + less entertainment out of it. Toward the middle of the afternoon we + arrived on board the stanch steamship Bermuda, with bag and baggage, and + hunted for a shady place. It was blazing summer weather, until we were + half-way down the harbor. Then I buttoned my coat closely; half an hour + later I put on a spring overcoat and buttoned that. As we passed the + light-ship I added an ulster and tied a handkerchief around the collar to + hold it snug to my neck. So rapidly had the summer gone and winter come + again! + </p> + <p> + By nightfall we were far out at sea, with no land in sight. No telegrams + could come here, no letters, no news. This was an uplifting thought. It + was still more uplifting to reflect that the millions of harassed people + on shore behind us were suffering just as usual. + </p> + <p> + The next day brought us into the midst of the Atlantic solitudes—out + of smoke-colored sounding into fathomless deep blue; no ships visible + anywhere over the wide ocean; no company but Mother Carey’s chickens + wheeling, darting, skimming the waves in the sun. There were some + seafaring men among the passengers, and conversation drifted into matters + concerning ships and sailors. One said that “true as the needle to + the pole” was a bad figure, since the needle seldom pointed to the + pole. He said a ship’s compass was not faithful to any particular + point, but was the most fickle and treacherous of the servants of man. It + was forever changing. It changed every day in the year; consequently the + amount of the daily variation had to be ciphered out and allowance made + for it, else the mariner would go utterly astray. Another said there was a + vast fortune waiting for the genius who should invent a compass that would + not be affected by the local influences of an iron ship. He said there was + only one creature more fickle than a wooden ship’s compass, and that + was the compass of an iron ship. Then came reference to the well known + fact that an experienced mariner can look at the compass of a new iron + vessel, thousands of miles from her birthplace, and tell which way her + head was pointing when she was in process of building. + </p> + <p> + Now an ancient whale-ship master fell to talking about the sort of crews + they used to have in his early days. Said he: + </p> + <p> + “Sometimes we’d have a batch of college students. Queer lot. + Ignorant? Why, they didn’t know the catheads from the main brace. + But if you took them for fools you’d get bit, sure. They’d + learn more in a month than another man would in a year. We had one, once, + in the Mary Ann, that came aboard with gold spectacles on. And besides, he + was rigged out from main truck to keelson in the nobbiest clothes that + ever saw a fo’castle. He had a chestful, too: cloaks, and broadcloth + coats, and velvet vests; everything swell, you know; and didn’t the + saltwater fix them out for him? I guess not! Well, going to sea, the mate + told him to go aloft and help shake out the foreto’gallants’l. + Up he shins to the foretop, with his spectacles on, and in a minute down + he comes again, looking insulted. Says the mate, ’What did you come + down for?’ Says the chap, ‘P’r’aps you didn’t + notice that there ain’t any ladders above there.’ You see we + hadn’t any shrouds above the foretop. The men bursted out in a laugh + such as I guess you never heard the like of. Next night, which was dark + and rainy, the mate ordered this chap to go aloft about something, and I’m + dummed if he didn’t start up with an umbrella and a lantern! But no + matter; he made a mighty good sailor before the voyage was done, and we + had to hunt up something else to laugh at. Years afterwards, when I had + forgot all about him, I comes into Boston, mate of a ship, and was loafing + around town with the second mate, and it so happened that we stepped into + the Revere House, thinking maybe we would chance the salt-horse in that + big diningroom for a flyer, as the boys say. Some fellows were talking + just at our elbow, and one says, ‘Yonder’s the new governor of + Massachusetts—at that table over there with the ladies.’ We + took a good look my mate and I, for we hadn’t either of us ever seen + a governor before. I looked and looked at that face and then all of a + sudden it popped on me! But I didn’t give any sign. Says I, ‘Mate, + I’ve a notion to go over and shake hands with him.’ Says he + ‘I think I see you doing it, Tom.’ Says I, ‘Mate I’m + a-going to do it.’ Says he, ‘Oh, yes, I guess so. Maybe you + don’t want to bet you will, Tom?’ Say I, ‘I don’t + mind going a V on it, mate.’ Says he ’Put it up.’ + ’Up she goes,’ says I, planking the cash. This surprised him. + But he covered it, and says pretty sarcastic, ‘Hadn’t you + better take your grub with the governor and the ladies, Tom?’ Says I + ‘Upon second thoughts, I will.’ Says he, ‘Well Tom, you + aye a dum fool.’ Says I, ‘Maybe I am maybe I ain’t; but + the main question is, do you wan to risk two and a half that I won’t + do it?’ ‘Make it a V,’ says he. ‘Done,’ says + I. I started, him a giggling and slapping his hand on his thigh, he felt + so good. I went over there and leaned my knuckles on the table a minute + and looked the governor in the face, and says I, ‘Mr. Gardner, don’t + you know me?’ He stared, and I stared, and he stared. Then all of a + sudden he sings out, ‘Tom Bowling, by the holy poker! Ladies, it’s + old Tom Bowling, that you’ve heard me talk about—shipmate of + mine in the Mary Ann.’ He rose up and shook hands with me ever so + hearty—I sort of glanced around and took a realizing sense of my + mate’s saucer eyes—and then says the governor, ‘Plant + yourself, Tom, plant yourself; you can’t cat your anchor again till + you’ve had a feed with me and the ladies!’ I planted myself + alongside the governor, and canted my eye around toward my mate. Well, + sir, his dead-lights were bugged out like tompions; and his mouth stood + that wide open that you could have laid a ham in it without him noticing + it.” + </p> + <p> + There was great applause at the conclusion of the old captain’s + story; then, after a moment’s silence, a grave, pale young man said: + </p> + <p> + “Had you ever met the governor before?” + </p> + <p> + The old captain looked steadily at this inquirer awhile, and then got up + and walked aft without making any reply. One passenger after another stole + a furtive glance at the inquirer; but failed to make him out, and so gave + him up. It took some little work to get the talk-machinery to running + smoothly again after this derangement; but at length a conversation sprang + up about that important and jealously guarded instrument, a ship’s + timekeeper, its exceeding delicate accuracy, and the wreck and destruction + that have sometimes resulted from its varying a few seemingly trifling + moments from the true time; then, in due course, my comrade, the Reverend, + got off on a yarn, with a fair wind and everything drawing. It was a true + story, too—about Captain Rounceville’s shipwreck—true in + every detail. It was to this effect: + </p> + <p> + Captain Rounceville’s vessel was lost in mid-Atlantic, and likewise + his wife and his two little children. Captain Rounceville and seven seamen + escaped with life, but with little else. A small, rudely constructed raft + was to be their home for eight days. They had neither provisions nor + water. They had scarcely any clothing; no one had a coat but the captain. + This coat was changing hands all the time, for the weather was very cold. + Whenever a man became exhausted with the cold, they put the coat on him + and laid him down between two shipmates until the garment and their bodies + had warmed life into him again. Among the sailors was a Portuguese who + knew no English. He seemed to have no thought of his own calamity, but was + concerned only about the captain’s bitter loss of wife and children. + By day he would look his dumb compassion in the captain’s face; and + by night, in the darkness and the driving spray and rain, he would seek + out the captain and try to comfort him with caressing pats on the + shoulder. One day, when hunger and thirst were making their sure inroads + upon the men’s strength and spirits, a floating barrel was seen at a + distance. It seemed a great find, for doubtless it contained food of some + sort. A brave fellow swam to it, and after long and exhausting effort got + it to the raft. It was eagerly opened. It was a barrel of magnesia! On the + fifth day an onion was spied. A sailor swam off and got it. Although + perishing with hunger, he brought it in its integrity and put it into the + captain’s hand. The history of the sea teaches that among starving, + shipwrecked men selfishness is rare, and a wonder-compelling magnanimity + the rule. The onion was equally divided into eight parts, and eaten with + deep thanksgivings. On the eighth day a distant ship was sighted. Attempts + were made to hoist an oar, with Captain Rounceville’s coat on it for + a signal. There were many failures, for the men were but skeletons now, + and strengthless. At last success was achieved, but the signal brought no + help. The ship faded out of sight and left despair behind her. By and by + another ship appeared, and passed so near that the castaways, every eye + eloquent with gratitude, made ready to welcome the boat that would be sent + to save them. But this ship also drove on, and left these men staring + their unutterable surprise and dismay into each other’s ashen faces. + Late in the day, still another ship came up out of the distance, but the + men noted with a pang that her course was one which would not bring her + nearer. Their remnant of life was nearly spent; their lips and tongues + were swollen, parched, cracked with eight days’ thirst; their bodies + starved; and here was their last chance gliding relentlessly from them; + they would not be alive when the next sun rose. For a day or two past the + men had lost their voices, but now Captain Rounceville whispered, “Let + us pray.” The Portuguese patted him on the shoulder in sign of deep + approval. All knelt at the base of the oar that was waving the signal-coat + aloft, and bowed their heads. The sea was tossing; the sun rested, a red, + rayless disk, on the sea-line in the west. When the men presently raised + their heads they would have roared a hallelujah if they had had a voice—the + ship’s sails lay wrinkled and flapping against her masts—she + was going about! Here was rescue at last, and in the very last instant of + time that was left for it. No, not rescue yet—only the imminent + prospect of it. The red disk sank under the sea, and darkness blotted out + the ship. By and by came a pleasant sound—oars moving in a boat’s + rowlocks. Nearer it came, and nearer-within thirty steps, but nothing + visible. Then a deep voice: “Hol-lo!” The castaways could not + answer; their swollen tongues refused voice. The boat skirted round and + round the raft, started away—the agony of it!—returned, rested + the oars, close at hand, listening, no doubt. The deep voice again: + “Hol-lo! Where are ye, shipmates?” Captain Rounceville + whispered to his men, saying: “Whisper your best, boys! now—all + at once!” So they sent out an eightfold whisper in hoarse concert: + “Here!”, There was life in it if it succeeded; death if it + failed. After that supreme moment Captain Rounceville was conscious of + nothing until he came to himself on board the saving ship. Said the + Reverend, concluding: + </p> + <p> + “There was one little moment of time in which that raft could be + visible from that ship, and only one. If that one little fleeting moment + had passed unfruitful, those men’s doom was sealed. As close as that + does God shave events foreordained from the beginning of the world. When + the sun reached the water’s edge that day, the captain of that ship + was sitting on deck reading his prayer-book. The book fell; he stooped to + pick it up, and happened to glance at the sun. In that instant that + far-off raft appeared for a second against the red disk, its needlelike + oar and diminutive signal cut sharp and black against the bright surface, + and in the next instant was thrust away into the dusk again. But that + ship, that captain, and that pregnant instant had had their work appointed + for them in the dawn of time and could not fail of the performance. The + chronometer of God never errs!” + </p> + <p> + There was deep, thoughtful silence for some moments. Then the grave, pale + young man said: + </p> + <p> + “What is the chronometer of God?” + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0002" id="link2H_4_0002"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + II. + </h2> + <p> + At dinner, six o’clock, the same people assembled whom we had talked + with on deck and seen at luncheon and breakfast this second day out, and + at dinner the evening before. That is to say, three journeying + ship-masters, a Boston merchant, and a returning Bermudian who had been + absent from his Bermuda thirteen years; these sat on the starboard side. + On the port side sat the Reverend in the seat of honor; the pale young man + next to him; I next; next to me an aged Bermudian, returning to his sunny + islands after an absence of twenty-seven years. Of course, our captain was + at the head of the table, the purser at the foot of it. A small company, + but small companies are pleasantest. + </p> + <p> + No racks upon the table; the sky cloudless, the sun brilliant, the blue + sea scarcely ruffled; then what had become of the four married couples, + the three bachelors, and the active and obliging doctor from the rural + districts of Pennsylvania?—for all these were on deck when we sailed + down New York harbor. This is the explanation. I quote from my note-book: + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + Thursday, 3.30 P.M. Under way, passing the Battery. The large + party, of four married couples, three bachelors, and a cheery, + exhilarating doctor from the wilds of Pennsylvania, are evidently + traveling together. All but the doctor grouped in camp-chairs on + deck. + + Passing principal fort. The doctor is one of those people who has + an infallible preventive of seasickness; is flitting from friend to + friend administering it and saying, “Don’t you be afraid; I know + this medicine; absolutely infallible; prepared under my own + supervision.” Takes a dose himself, intrepidly. + + 4.15 P.M. Two of those ladies have struck their colors, + notwithstanding the “infallible.” They have gone below. The other + two begin to show distress. + + 5 P.M. Exit one husband and one bachelor. These still had their + infallible in cargo when they started, but arrived at the + companionway without it. + + 5.10. Lady No. 3, two bachelors, and one married man have gone + below with their own opinion of the infallible. + + 5.20. Passing Quarantine Hulk. The infallible has done the + business for all the party except the Scotchman’s wife and the + author of that formidable remedy. + + Nearing the Light-Ship. Exit the Scotchman’s wife, head drooped on + stewardess’s shoulder. + + Entering the open sea. Exit doctor! +</pre> + <p> + The rout seems permanent; hence the smallness of the company at table + since the voyage began. Our captain is a grave, handsome Hercules of + thirty-five, with a brown hand of such majestic size that one cannot eat + for admiring it and wondering if a single kid or calf could furnish + material for gloving it. + </p> + <p> + Conversation not general; drones along between couples. One catches a + sentence here and there. Like this, from Bermudian of thirteen years’ + absence: “It is the nature of women to ask trivial, irrelevant, and + pursuing questions—questions that pursue you from a beginning in + nothing to a run-to-cover in nowhere.” Reply of Bermudian of + twenty-seven years’ absence: “Yes; and to think they have + logical, analytical minds and argumentative ability. You see ’em + begin to whet up whenever they smell argument in the air.” Plainly + these be philosophers. + </p> + <p> + Twice since we left port our engines have stopped for a couple of minutes + at a time. Now they stop again. Says the pale young man, meditatively, + “There!—that engineer is sitting down to rest again.” + </p> + <p> + Grave stare from the captain, whose mighty jaws cease to work, and whose + harpooned potato stops in midair on its way to his open, paralyzed mouth. + Presently he says in measured tones, “Is it your idea that the + engineer of this ship propels her by a crank turned by his own hands?” + </p> + <p> + The pale young man studies over this a moment, then lifts up his guileless + eyes, and says, “Don’t he?” + </p> + <p> + Thus gently falls the death-blow to further conversation, and the dinner + drags to its close in a reflective silence, disturbed by no sounds but the + murmurous wash of the sea and the subdued clash of teeth. + </p> + <p> + After a smoke and a promenade on deck, where is no motion to discompose + our steps, we think of a game of whist. We ask the brisk and capable + stewardess from Ireland if there are any cards in the ship. + </p> + <p> + “Bless your soul, dear, indeed there is. Not a whole pack, true for + ye, but not enough missing to signify.” + </p> + <p> + However, I happened by accident to bethink me of a new pack in a morocco + case, in my trunk, which I had placed there by mistake, thinking it to be + a flask of something. So a party of us conquered the tedium of the evening + with a few games and were ready for bed at six bells, mariner’s + time, the signal for putting out the lights. + </p> + <p> + There was much chat in the smoking-cabin on the upper deck after luncheon + to-day, mostly whaler yarns from those old sea-captains. Captain Tom + Bowling was garrulous. He had that garrulous attention to minor detail + which is born of secluded farm life or life at sea on long voyages, where + there is little to do and time no object. He would sail along till he was + right in the most exciting part of a yarn, and then say, “Well, as I + was saying, the rudder was fouled, ship driving before the gale, head-on, + straight for the iceberg, all hands holding their breath, turned to stone, + top-hamper giving ’way, sails blown to ribbons, first one stick + going, then another, boom! smash! crash! duck your head and stand from + under! when up comes Johnny Rogers, capstan-bar in hand, eyes a-blazing, + hair a-flying... no, ’twa’n’t Johnny Rogers... lemme see + ... seems to me Johnny Rogers wa’n’t along that voyage; he was + along one voyage, I know that mighty well, but somehow it seems to me that + he signed the articles for this voyage, but—but—whether he + come along or not, or got left, or something happened—” + </p> + <p> + And so on and so on till the excitement all cooled down and nobody cared + whether the ship struck the iceberg or not. + </p> + <p> + In the course of his talk he rambled into a criticism upon New England + degrees of merit in ship building. Said he, “You get a vessel built + away down Maine-way; Bath, for instance; what’s the result? First + thing you do, you want to heave her down for repairs—that’s + the result! Well, sir, she hain’t been hove down a week till you can + heave a dog through her seams. You send that vessel to sea, and what’s + the result? She wets her oakum the first trip! Leave it to any man if + ’tain’t so. Well, you let our folks build you a vessel—down + New Bedford-way. What’s the result? Well, sir, you might take that + ship and heave her down, and keep her hove down six months, and she’ll + never shed a tear!” + </p> + <p> + Everybody, landsmen and all, recognized the descriptive neatness of that + figure, and applauded, which greatly pleased the old man. A moment later, + the meek eyes of the pale young fellow heretofore mentioned came up + slowly, rested upon the old man’s face a moment, and the meek mouth + began to open. + </p> + <p> + “Shet your head!” shouted the old mariner. + </p> + <p> + It was a rather startling surprise to everybody, but it was effective in + the matter of its purpose. So the conversation flowed on instead of + perishing. + </p> + <p> + There was some talk about the perils of the sea, and a landsman delivered + himself of the customary nonsense about the poor mariner wandering in far + oceans, tempest-tossed, pursued by dangers, every storm-blast and + thunderbolt in the home skies moving the friends by snug firesides to + compassion for that poor mariner, and prayers for his succor. Captain + Bowling put up with this for a while, and then burst out with a new view + of the matter. + </p> + <p> + “Come, belay there! I have read this kind of rot all my life in + poetry and tales and such-like rubbage. Pity for the poor mariner! + sympathy for the poor mariner! All right enough, but not in the way the + poetry puts it. Pity for the mariner’s wife! all right again, but + not in the way the poetry puts it. Look-a here! whose life’s the + safest in the whole world? The poor mariner’s. You look at the + statistics, you’ll see. So don’t you fool away any sympathy on + the poor mariner’s dangers and privations and sufferings. Leave that + to the poetry muffs. Now you look at the other side a minute. Here is + Captain Brace, forty years old, been at sea thirty. On his way now to take + command of his ship and sail south from Bermuda. Next week he’ll be + under way; easy times; comfortable quarters; passengers, sociable company; + just enough to do to keep his mind healthy and not tire him; king over his + ship, boss of everything and everybody; thirty years’ safety to + learn him that his profession ain’t a dangerous one. Now you look + back at his home. His wife’s a feeble woman; she’s a stranger + in New York; shut up in blazing hot or freezing cold lodgings, according + to the season; don’t know anybody hardly; no company but her + lonesomeness and her thoughts; husband gone six months at a time. She has + borne eight children; five of them she has buried without her husband ever + setting eyes on them. She watched them all the long nights till they died—he + comfortable on the sea; she followed them to the grave, she heard the + clods fall that broke her heart he comfortable on the sea; she mourned at + home, weeks and weeks, missing them every day and every hour—he + cheerful at sea, knowing nothing about it. Now look at it a minute—turn + it over in your mind and size it: five children born, she among strangers, + and him not by to hearten her; buried, and him not by to comfort her; + think of that! Sympathy for the poor mariner’s perils is rot; give + it to his wife’s hard lines, where it belongs! Poetry makes out that + all the wife worries about is the dangers her husband’s running. She’s + got substantialer things to worry over, I tell you. Poetry’s always + pitying the poor mariner on account of his perils at sea; better a blamed + sight pity him for the nights he can’t sleep for thinking of how he + had to leave his wife in her very birth pains, lonesome and friendless, in + the thick of disease and trouble and death. If there’s one thing + that can make me madder than another, it’s this sappy, damned + maritime poetry!” + </p> + <p> + Captain Brace was a patient, gentle, seldom speaking man, with a pathetic + something in his bronzed face that had been a mystery up to this time, but + stood interpreted now since we had heard his story. He had voyaged + eighteen times to the Mediterranean, seven times to India, once to the + arctic pole in a discovery-ship, and “between times” had + visited all the remote seas and ocean corners of the globe. But he said + that twelve years ago, on account of his family, he “settled down,” + and ever since then had ceased to roam. And what do you suppose was this + simple-hearted, lifelong wanderer’s idea of settling down and + ceasing to roam? Why, the making of two five-month voyages a year between + Surinam and Boston for sugar and molasses! + </p> + <p> + Among other talk to-day, it came out that whale-ships carry no doctor. The + captain adds the doctorship to his own duties. He not only gives + medicines, but sets broken limbs after notions of his own, or saws them + off and sears the stump when amputation seems best. The captain is + provided with a medicine-chest, with the medicines numbered instead of + named. A book of directions goes with this. It describes diseases and + symptoms, and says, “Give a teaspoonful of No. 9 once an hour,” + or “Give ten grains of No. 12 every half-hour,” etc. One of + our sea-captains came across a skipper in the North Pacific who was in a + state of great surprise and perplexity. Said he: + </p> + <p> + “There’s something rotten about this medicine-chest business. + One of my men was sick—nothing much the matter. I looked in the + book: it said give him a teaspoonful of No. 15. I went to the + medicine-chest, and I see I was out of No. 15. I judged I’d got to + get up a combination somehow that would fill the bill; so I hove into the + fellow half a teaspoonful of No. 8 and half a teaspoonful of No. 7, and I’ll + be hanged if it didn’t kill him in fifteen minutes! There’s + something about this medicine-chest system that’s too many for me!” + </p> + <p> + There was a good deal of pleasant gossip about old Captain “Hurricane” + Jones, of the Pacific Ocean—peace to his ashes! Two or three of us + present had known him; I particularly well, for I had made four + sea-voyages with him. He was a very remarkable man. He was born in a ship; + he picked up what little education he had among his shipmates; he began + life in the forecastle, and climbed grade by grade to the captaincy. More + than fifty years of his sixty-five were spent at sea. He had sailed all + oceans, seen all lands, and borrowed a tint from all climates. When a man + has been fifty years at sea he necessarily knows nothing of men, nothing + of the world but its surface, nothing of the world’s thought, + nothing of the world’s learning but it’s A B C, and that + blurred and distorted by the unfocused lenses of an untrained mind. Such a + man is only a gray and bearded child. That is what old Hurricane Jones was—simply + an innocent, lovable old infant. When his spirit was in repose he was as + sweet and gentle as a girl; when his wrath was up he was a hurricane that + made his nickname seem tamely descriptive. He was formidable in a fight, + for he was of powerful build and dauntless courage. He was frescoed from + head to heel with pictures and mottoes tattooed in red and blue India ink. + I was with him one voyage when he got his last vacant space tattooed; this + vacant space was around his left ankle. During three days he stumped about + the ship with his ankle bare and swollen, and this legend gleaming red and + angry out from a clouding of India ink: “Virtue is its own R’d.” + (There was a lack of room.) He was deeply and sincerely pious, and swore + like a fishwoman. He considered swearing blameless, because sailors would + not understand an order unillumined by it. He was a profound biblical + scholar—that is, he thought he was. He believed everything in the + Bible, but he had his own methods of arriving at his beliefs. He was of + the “advanced” school of thinkers, and applied natural laws to + the interpretation of all miracles, somewhat on the plan of the people who + make the six days of creation six geological epochs, and so forth. Without + being aware of it, he was a rather severe satire on modern scientific + religionists. Such a man as I have been describing is rabidly fond of + disquisition and argument; one knows that without being told it. + </p> + <p> + One trip the captain had a clergyman on board, but did not know he was a + clergyman, since the passenger-list did not betray the fact. He took a + great liking to this Reverend Mr. Peters, and talked with him a great + deal; told him yarns, gave him toothsome scraps of personal history, and + wove a glittering streak of profanity through his garrulous fabric that + was refreshing to a spirit weary of the dull neutralities of undecorated + speech. One day the captain said, “Peters, do you ever read the + Bible?” + </p> + <p> + “Well—yes.” + </p> + <p> + “I judge it ain’t often, by the way you say it. Now, you + tackle it in dead earnest once, and you’ll find it’ll pay. Don’t + you get discouraged, but hang right on. First, you won’t understand + it; but by and by things will begin to clear up, and then you wouldn’t + lay it down to eat.” + </p> + <p> + “Yes, I have heard that said.” + </p> + <p> + “And it’s so, too. There ain’t a book that begins with + it. It lays over ’m all, Peters. There’s some pretty tough + things in it—there ain’t any getting around that—but you + stick to them and think them out, and when once you get on the inside + everything’s plain as day.” + </p> + <p> + “The miracles, too, captain?” + </p> + <p> + “Yes, sir! the miracles, too. Every one of them. Now, there’s + that business with the prophets of Baal; like enough that stumped you?” + </p> + <p> + “Well, I don’t know but—” + </p> + <p> + “Own up now; it stumped you. Well, I don’t wonder. You hadn’t + had any experience in raveling such things out, and naturally it was too + many for you. Would you like to have me explain that thing to you, and + show you how to get at the meat of these matters?” + </p> + <p> + “Indeed, I would, captain, if you don’t mind.” + </p> + <p> + Then the captain proceeded as follows: “I’ll do it with + pleasure. First, you see, I read and read, and thought and thought, till I + got to understand what sort of people they were in the old Bible times, + and then after that it was all clear and easy. Now this was the way I put + it up, concerning Isaac—[This is the captain’s own mistake]—and + the prophets of Baal. There was some mighty sharp men among the public + characters of that old ancient day, and Isaac was one of them. Isaac had + his failings—plenty of them, too; it ain’t for me to apologize + for Isaac; he played it on the prophets of Baal, and like enough he was + justifiable, considering the odds that was against him. No, all I say is, + ’twa’n’t any miracle, and that I’ll show you so’s’t + you can see it yourself. + </p> + <p> + “Well, times had been getting rougher and rougher for prophets—that + is, prophets of Isaac’s denomination. There was four hundred and + fifty prophets of Baal in the community, and only one Presbyterian; that + is, if Isaac was a Presbyterian, which I reckon he was, but it don’t + say. Naturally, the prophets of Baal took all the trade. Isaac was pretty + low-spirited, I reckon, but he was a good deal of a man, and no doubt he + went a-prophesying around, letting on to be doing a land-office business, + but ’twa’n’t any use; he couldn’t run any + opposition to amount to anything. By and by things got desperate with him; + he sets his head to work and thinks it all out, and then what does he do? + Why, he begins to throw out hints that the other parties are this and that + and t’other—nothing very definite, maybe, but just kind of + undermining their reputation in a quiet way. This made talk, of course, + and finally got to the king. The king asked Isaac what he meant by his + talk. Says Isaac, ‘Oh, nothing particular; only, can they pray-down + fire from heaven on an altar? It ain’t much, maybe, your majesty, + only can they do it? That’s the idea.’ So the king was a good + deal disturbed, and he went to the prophets of Baal, and they said, pretty + airy, that if he had an altar ready, they were ready; and they intimated + he better get it insured, too. + </p> + <p> + “So next morning all the children of Israel and their parents and + the other people gathered themselves together. Well, here was that great + crowd of prophets of Baal packed together on one side, and Isaac walking + up and down all alone on the other, putting up his job. When time was + called, Isaac let on to be comfortable and indifferent; told the other + team to take the first innings. So they went at it, the whole four hundred + and fifty, praying around the altar, very hopeful, and doing their level + best. They prayed an hour—two hours—three hours—and so + on, plumb till noon. It wa’n’t any use; they hadn’t took + a trick. Of course they felt kind of ashamed before all those people, and + well they might. Now, what would a magnanimous man do? Keep still, wouldn’t + he? Of course. What did Isaac do? He graveled the prophets of Baal every + way he could think of. Says he, ‘You don’t speak up loud + enough; your god’s asleep, like enough, or maybe he’s taking a + walk; you want to holler, you know’—or words to that effect; I + don’t recollect the exact language. Mind, I don’t apologize + for Isaac; he had his faults. + </p> + <p> + “Well, the prophets of Baal prayed along the best they knew how all + the afternoon, and never raised, a spark. At last, about sundown, they + were all tuckered out, and they owned up and quit. + </p> + <p> + “What does Isaac do now? He steps up and says to some friends of his + there, ‘Pour four barrels of water on the altar!’ Everybody + was astonished; for the other side had prayed at it dry, you know, and got + whitewashed. They poured it on. Says he, ‘Heave on four more + barrels.’ Then he says, ‘Heave on four more.’ Twelve + barrels, you see, altogether. The water ran all over the altar, and all + down the sides, and filled up a trench around it that would hold a couple + of hogsheads-’measures,’ it says; I reckon it means about a + hogshead. Some of the people were going to put on their things and go, for + they allowed he was crazy. They didn’t know Isaac. Isaac knelt down + and began to pray; he strung along, and strung along, about the heathen in + distant lands, and about the sister churches, and about the state and the + country at large, and about those that’s in authority in the + government, and all the usual program, you know, till everybody had got + tired and gone to thinking about something else, and then, all of a + sudden, when nobody was noticing, he outs with a match and rakes it on the + under side of his leg, and pff! up the whole thing blazes like a house + afire! Twelve barrels of water? Petroleum, sir, PETROLEUM! that’s + what it was!” + </p> + <p> + “Petroleum, captain?” + </p> + <p> + “Yes, sir, the country was full of it. Isaac knew all about that. + You read the Bible. Don’t you worry about the tough places. They ain’t + tough when you come to think them out and throw light on them. There ain’t + a thing in the Bible but what is true; all you want is to go prayerfully + to work and cipher out how ’twas done.” + </p> + <p> + At eight o’clock on the third morning out from New York, land was + sighted. Away across the sunny waves one saw a faint dark stripe stretched + along under the horizon—or pretended to see it, for the credit of + his eyesight. Even the Reverend said he saw it, a thing which was + manifestly not so. But I never have seen any one who was morally strong + enough to confess that he could not see land when others claimed that they + could. + </p> + <p> + By and by the Bermuda Islands were easily visible. The principal one lay + upon the water in the distance, a long, dull-colored body; scalloped with + slight hills and valleys. We could not go straight at it, but had to + travel all the way around it, sixteen miles from shore, because it is + fenced with an invisible coral reef. At last we sighted buoys, bobbing + here and there, and then we glided into a narrow channel among them, + “raised the reef,” and came upon shoaling blue water that soon + further shoaled into pale green, with a surface scarcely rippled. Now came + the resurrection hour; the berths gave up their dead. Who are these pale + specters in plug-hats and silken flounces that file up the companionway in + melancholy procession and step upon the deck? These are they which took + the infallible preventive of seasickness in New York harbor and then + disappeared and were forgotten. Also there came two or three faces not + seen before until this moment. One’s impulse is to ask, “Where + did you come aboard?” + </p> + <p> + We followed the narrow channel a long time, with land on both sides—low + hills that might have been green and grassy, but had a faded look instead. + However, the land-locked water was lovely, at any rate, with its + glittering belts of blue and green where moderate soundings were, and its + broad splotches of rich brown where the rocks lay near the surface. + Everybody was feeling so well that even the grave, pale young man (who, by + a sort of kindly common consent, had come latterly to be referred to as + “The Ass”) received frequent and friendly notice—which + was right enough, for there was no harm in him. + </p> + <p> + At last we steamed between two island points whose rocky jaws allowed only + just enough room for the vessel’s body, and now before us loomed + Hamilton on her clustered hillsides and summits, the whitest mass of + terraced architecture that exists in the world, perhaps. + </p> + <p> + It was Sunday afternoon, and on the pier were gathered one or two hundred + Bermudians, half of them black, half of them white, and all of them + nobbily dressed, as the poet says. + </p> + <p> + Several boats came off to the ship, bringing citizens. One of these + citizens was a faded, diminutive old gentleman, who approached our most + ancient passenger with a childlike joy in his twinkling eyes, halted + before him, folded his arms, and said, smiling with all his might and with + all the simple delight that was in him, “You don’t know me, + John! Come, out with it now; you know you don’t!” + </p> + <p> + The ancient passenger scanned him perplexedly, scanned the napless, + threadbare costume of venerable fashion that had done Sunday service no + man knows how many years, contemplated the marvelous stovepipe hat of + still more ancient and venerable pattern, with its poor, pathetic old + stiff brim canted up “gallusly” in the wrong places, and said, + with a hesitation that indicated strong internal effort to “place” + the gentle old apparition, “Why... let me see... plague on it... + there’s something about you that... er... er... but I’ve been + gone from Bermuda for twenty-seven years, and... hum, hum ... I don’t + seem to get at it, somehow, but there’s something about you that is + just as familiar to me as—” + </p> + <p> + “Likely it might be his hat,” murmured the Ass, with innocent, + sympathetic interest. + </p> + <p> + So the Reverend and I had at last arrived at Hamilton, the principal town + in the Bermuda Islands. A wonderfully white town; white as snow itself. + White as marble; white as flour. Yet looking like none of these, exactly. + Never mind, we said; we shall hit upon a figure by and by that will + describe this peculiar white. + </p> + <p> + It was a town that was compacted together upon the sides and tops of a + cluster of small hills. Its outlying borders fringed off and thinned away + among the cedar forests, and there was no woody distance of curving coast + or leafy islet sleeping upon the dimpled, painted sea, but was flecked + with shining white points—half-concealed houses peeping out of the + foliage. The architecture of the town was mainly Spanish, inherited from + the colonists of two hundred and fifty years ago. Some ragged-topped + cocoa-palms, glimpsed here and there, gave the land a tropical aspect. + </p> + <p> + There was an ample pier of heavy masonry; upon this, under shelter, were + some thousands of barrels containing that product which has carried the + fame of Bermuda to many lands, the potato. With here and there an onion. + That last sentence is facetious; for they grow at least two onions in + Bermuda to one potato. The onion is the pride and joy of Bermuda. It is + her jewel, her gem of gems. In her conversation, her pulpit, her + literature, it is her most frequent and eloquent figure. In Bermuda + metaphor it stands for perfection—perfection absolute. + </p> + <p> + The Bermudian weeping over the departed exhausts praise when he says, + “He was an onion!” The Bermudian extolling the living hero + bankrupts applause when he says, “He is an onion!” The + Bermudian setting his son upon the stage of life to dare and do for + himself climaxes all counsel, supplication, admonition, comprehends all + ambition, when he says, “Be an onion!” + </p> + <p> + When parallel with the pier, and ten or fifteen steps outside it, we + anchored. It was Sunday, bright and sunny. The groups upon the pier—men, + youths, and boys—were whites and blacks in about equal proportion. + All were well and neatly dressed; many of them nattily, a few of them very + stylishly. One would have to travel far before he would find another town + of twelve thousand inhabitants that could represent itself so respectably, + in the matter of clothes, on a freight-pier, without premeditation or + effort. The women and young girls, black and white, who occasionally + passed by, were nicely clad, and many were elegantly and fashionably so. + The men did not affect summer clothing much, but the girls and women did, + and their white garments were good to look at, after so many months of + familiarity with somber colors. + </p> + <p> + Around one isolated potato-barrel stood four young gentlemen, two black, + two white, becomingly dressed, each with the head of a slender cane + pressed against his teeth, and each with a foot propped up on the barrel. + Another young gentleman came up, looked longingly at the barrel, but saw + no rest for his foot there, and turned pensively away to seek another + barrel. He wandered here and there, but without result. Nobody sat upon a + barrel, as is the custom of the idle in other lands, yet all the isolated + barrels were humanly occupied. Whosoever had a foot to spare put it on a + barrel, if all the places on it were not already taken. The habits of all + peoples are determined by their circumstances. The Bermudians lean upon + barrels because of the scarcity of lamp-posts. + </p> + <p> + Many citizens came on board and spoke eagerly to the officers—inquiring + about the Turco-Russian war news, I supposed. However, by listening + judiciously I found that this was not so. They said, “What is the + price of onions?” or, “How’s onions?” Naturally + enough this was their first interest; but they dropped into the war the + moment it was satisfied. + </p> + <p> + We went ashore and found a novelty of a pleasant nature: there were no + hackmen, hacks, or omnibuses on the pier or about it anywhere, and nobody + offered his services to us, or molested us in any way. I said it was like + being in heaven. The Reverend rebukingly and rather pointedly advised me + to make the most of it, then. We knew of a boarding-house, and what we + needed now was somebody to pilot us to it. Presently a little barefooted + colored boy came along, whose raggedness was conspicuously not + un-Bermudian. His rear was so marvelously bepatched with colored squares + and triangles that one was half persuaded he had got it out of an atlas. + When the sun struck him right, he was as good to follow as a + lightning-bug. We hired him and dropped into his wake. He piloted us + through one picturesque street after another, and in due course deposited + us where we belonged. He charged nothing for his map, and but a trifle for + his services: so the Reverend doubled it. The little chap received the + money with a beaming applause in his eye which plainly said, “This + man’s an onion!” + </p> + <p> + We had brought no letters of introduction; our names had been misspelled + in the passenger-list; nobody knew whether we were honest folk or + otherwise. So we were expecting to have a good private time in case there + was nothing in our general aspect to close boarding-house doors against + us. We had no trouble. Bermuda has had but little experience of rascals, + and is not suspicious. We got large, cool, well-lighted rooms on a second + floor, overlooking a bloomy display of flowers and flowering shrubscalia + and annunciation lilies, lantanas, heliotrope, jasmine, roses, pinks, + double geraniums, oleanders, pomegranates, blue morning-glories of a great + size, and many plants that were unknown to me. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0003" id="link2H_4_0003"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + III. + </h2> + <p> + So the Reverend and I had at last arrived at Hamilton, the principal town + in the Bermuda Islands. + </p> + <p> + We took a long afternoon walk, and soon found out that that exceedingly + white town was built of blocks of white coral. Bermuda is a coral island, + with a six-inch crust of soil on top of it, and every man has a quarry on + his own premises. Everywhere you go you see square recesses cut into the + hillsides, with perpendicular walls unmarred by crack or crevice, and + perhaps you fancy that a house grew out of the ground there, and has been + removed in a single piece from the mold. If you do, you err. But the + material for a house has been quarried there. They cut right down through + the coral, to any depth that is convenient—ten to twenty feet—and + take it out in great square blocks. This cutting is done with a chisel + that has a handle twelve or fifteen feet long, and is used as one uses a + crowbar when he is drilling a hole, or a dasher when he is churning. Thus + soft is this stone. Then with a common handsaw they saw the great blocks + into handsome, huge bricks that are two feet long, a foot wide, and about + six inches thick. These stand loosely piled during a month to harden; then + the work of building begins. + </p> + <p> + The house is built of these blocks; it is roofed with broad coral slabs an + inch thick, whose edges lap upon each other, so that the roof looks like a + succession of shallow steps or terraces; the chimneys are built of the + coral blocks, and sawed into graceful and picturesque patterns; the + ground-floor veranda is paved with coral blocks; also the walk to the + gate; the fence is built of coral blocks—built in massive panels, + with broad capstones and heavy gate-posts, and the whole trimmed into easy + lines and comely shape with the saw. Then they put a hard coat of + whitewash, as thick as your thumb-nail, on the fence and all over the + house, roof, chimneys, and all; the sun comes out and shines on this + spectacle, and it is time for you to shut your unaccustomed eyes, lest + they be put out. It is the whitest white you can conceive of, and the + blindingest. A Bermuda house does not look like marble; it is a much + intenser white than that; and, besides, there is a dainty, indefinable + something else about its look that is not marble-like. We put in a great + deal of solid talk and reflection over this matter of trying to find a + figure that would describe the unique white of a Bermuda house, and we + contrived to hit upon it at last. It is exactly the white of the icing of + a cake, and has the same unemphasized and scarcely perceptible polish. The + white of marble is modest and retiring compared with it. + </p> + <p> + After the house is cased in its hard scale of whitewash, not a crack, or + sign of a seam, or joining of the blocks is detectable, from base-stone to + chimney-top; the building looks as if it had been carved from a single + block of stone, and the doors and windows sawed out afterward. A white + marble house has a cold, tomb-like, unsociable look, and takes the + conversation out of a body and depresses him. Not so with a Bermuda house. + There is something exhilarating, even hilarious, about its vivid whiteness + when the sun plays upon it. If it be of picturesque shape and graceful + contour—and many of the Bermudian dwellings are—it will so + fascinate you that you will keep your eyes on it until they ache. One of + those clean-cut, fanciful chimneys—too pure and white for this world—with + one side glowing in the sun and the other touched with a soft shadow, is + an object that will charm one’s gaze by the hour. I know of no other + country that has chimneys worthy to be gazed at and gloated over. One of + those snowy houses, half concealed and half glimpsed through green + foliage, is a pretty thing to see; and if it takes one by surprise and + suddenly, as he turns a sharp corner of a country road, it will wring an + exclamation from him, sure. + </p> + <p> + Wherever you go, in town or country, you find those snowy houses, and + always with masses of bright-colored flowers about them, but with no vines + climbing their walls; vines cannot take hold of the smooth, hard + whitewash. Wherever you go, in the town or along the country roads, among + little potato farms and patches or expensive country-seats, these + stainless white dwellings, gleaming out from flowers and foliage, meet you + at every turn. The least little bit of a cottage is as white and + blemishless as the stateliest mansion. Nowhere is there dirt or stench, + puddle or hog-wallow, neglect, disorder, or lack of trimness and neatness. + The roads, the streets, the dwellings, the people, the clothes—this + neatness extends to everything that falls under the eye. It is the tidiest + country in the world. And very much the tidiest, too. + </p> + <p> + Considering these things, the question came up, Where do the poor live? No + answer was arrived at. Therefore, we agreed to leave this conundrum for + future statesmen to wrangle over. + </p> + <p> + What a bright and startling spectacle one of those blazing white country + palaces, with its brown-tinted window-caps and ledges, and green shutters, + and its wealth of caressing flowers and foliage, would be in black London! + And what a gleaming surprise it would be in nearly any American city one + could mention, too! + </p> + <p> + Bermuda roads are made by cutting down a few inches into the solid white + coral—or a good many feet, where a hill intrudes itself—and + smoothing off the surface of the road-bed. It is a simple and easy + process. The grain of the coral is coarse and porous; the road-bed has the + look of being made of coarse white sugar. Its excessive cleanness and + whiteness are a trouble in one way: the sun is reflected into your eyes + with such energy as you walk along that you want to sneeze all the time. + Old Captain Tom Bowling found another difficulty. He joined us in our + walk, but kept wandering unrestfully to the roadside. Finally he + explained. Said he, “Well, I chew, you know, and the road’s so + plagued clean.” + </p> + <p> + We walked several miles that afternoon in the bewildering glare of the + sun, the white roads, and the white buildings. Our eyes got to paining us + a good deal. By and by a soothing, blessed twilight spread its cool balm + around. We looked up in pleased surprise and saw that it proceeded from an + intensely black negro who was going by. We answered his military salute in + the grateful gloom of his near presence, and then passed on into the + pitiless white glare again. + </p> + <p> + The colored women whom we met usually bowed and spoke; so did the + children. The colored men commonly gave the military salute. They borrow + this fashion from the soldiers, no doubt; England has kept a garrison here + for generations. The younger men’s custom of carrying small canes is + also borrowed from the soldiers, I suppose, who always carry a cane, in + Bermuda as everywhere else in Britain’s broad dominions. + </p> + <p> + The country roads curve and wind hither and thither in the delightfulest + way, unfolding pretty surprises at every turn: billowy masses of oleander + that seem to float out from behind distant projections like the pink + cloud-banks of sunset; sudden plunges among cottages and gardens, life and + activity, followed by as sudden plunges into the somber twilight and + stillness of the woods; flitting visions of white fortresses and beacon + towers pictured against the sky on remote hilltops; glimpses of shining + green sea caught for a moment through opening headlands, then lost again; + more woods and solitude; and by and by another turn lays bare, without + warning, the full sweep of the inland ocean, enriched with its bars of + soft color and graced with its wandering sails. + </p> + <p> + Take any road you please, you may depend upon it you will not stay in it + half a mile. Your road is everything that a road ought to be: it is + bordered with trees, and with strange plants and flowers; it is shady and + pleasant, or sunny and still pleasant; it carries you by the prettiest and + peacefulest and most homelike of homes, and through stretches of forest + that lie in a deep hush sometimes, and sometimes are alive with the music + of birds; it curves always, which is a continual promise, whereas straight + roads reveal everything at a glance and kill interest. Your road is all + this, and yet you will not stay in it half a mile, for the reason that + little seductive, mysterious roads are always branching out from it on + either hand, and as these curve sharply also and hide what is beyond, you + cannot resist the temptation to desert your own chosen road and explore + them. You are usually paid for your trouble; consequently, your walk + inland always turns out to be one of the most crooked, involved, + purposeless, and interesting experiences a body can imagine. There is + enough of variety. Sometimes you are in the level open, with marshes thick + grown with flag-lances that are ten feet high on the one hand, and potato + and onion orchards on the other; next, you are on a hilltop, with the + ocean and the islands spread around you; presently the road winds through + a deep cut, shut in by perpendicular walls thirty or forty feet high, + marked with the oddest and abruptest stratum lines, suggestive of sudden + and eccentric old upheavals, and garnished with here and there a clinging + adventurous flower, and here and there a dangling vine; and by and by your + way is along the sea edge, and you may look down a fathom or two through + the transparent water and watch the diamond-like flash and play of the + light upon the rocks and sands on the bottom until you are tired of it—if + you are so constituted as to be able to get tired of it. + </p> + <p> + You may march the country roads in maiden meditation, fancy free, by field + and farm, for no dog will plunge out at you from unsuspected gate, with + breath-taking surprise of ferocious bark, notwithstanding it is a + Christian land and a civilized. We saw upward of a million cats in + Bermuda, but the people are very abstemious in the matter of dogs. Two or + three nights we prowled the country far and wide, and never once were + accosted by a dog. It is a great privilege to visit such a land. The cats + were no offense when properly distributed, but when piled they obstructed + travel. + </p> + <p> + As we entered the edge of the town that Sunday afternoon, we stopped at a + cottage to get a drink of water. The proprietor, a middle-aged man with a + good face, asked us to sit down and rest. His dame brought chairs, and we + grouped ourselves in the shade of the trees by the door. Mr. Smith—that + was not his name, but it will answer—questioned us about ourselves + and our country, and we answered him truthfully, as a general thing, and + questioned him in return. It was all very simple and pleasant and + sociable. Rural, too; for there was a pig and a small donkey and a hen + anchored out, close at hand, by cords to their legs, on a spot that + purported to be grassy. Presently, a woman passed along, and although she + coldly said nothing she changed the drift of our talk. Said Smith: + </p> + <p> + “She didn’t look this way, you noticed? Well, she is our next + neighbor on one side, and there’s another family that’s our + next neighbors on the other side; but there’s a general coolness all + around now, and we don’t speak. Yet these three families, one + generation and another, have lived here side by side and been as friendly + as weavers for a hundred and fifty years, till about a year ago.” + </p> + <p> + “Why, what calamity could have been powerful enough to break up so + old a friendship?” + </p> + <p> + “Well, it was too bad, but it couldn’t be helped. It happened + like this: About a year or more ago, the rats got to pestering my place a + good deal, and I set up a steel trap in my back yard. Both of these + neighbors run considerable to cats, and so I warned them about the trap, + because their cats were pretty sociable around here nights, and they might + get into trouble without my intending it. Well, they shut up their cats + for a while, but you know how it is with people; they got careless, and + sure enough one night the trap took Mrs. Jones’s principal tomcat + into camp and finished him up. In the morning Mrs. Jones comes here with + the corpse in her arms, and cries and takes on the same as if it was a + child. It was a cat by the name of Yelverton—Hector G. Yelverton—a + troublesome old rip, with no more principle than an Injun, though you + couldn’t make her believe it. I said all a man could to comfort her, + but no, nothing would do but I must pay for him. Finally, I said I warn’t + investing in cats now as much as I was, and with that she walked off in a + huff, carrying the remains with her. That closed our intercourse with the + Joneses. Mrs. Jones joined another church and took her tribe with her. She + said she would not hold fellowship with assassins. Well, by and by comes + Mrs. Brown’s turn—she that went by here a minute ago. She had + a disgraceful old yellow cat that she thought as much of as if he was + twins, and one night he tried that trap on his neck, and it fitted him so, + and was so sort of satisfactory, that he laid down and curled up and + stayed with it. Such was the end of Sir John Baldwin.” + </p> + <p> + “Was that the name of the cat?” + </p> + <p> + “The same. There’s cats around here with names that would + surprise you. Maria” (to his wife), “what was that cat’s + name that eat a keg of ratsbane by mistake over at Hooper’s, and + started home and got struck by lightning and took the blind staggers and + fell in the well and was ’most drowned before they could fish him + out?” + </p> + <p> + “That was that colored Deacon Jackson’s cat. I only remember + the last end of its name, which was Hold-The-Fort-For-I-Am-Coming Jackson.” + </p> + <p> + “Sho! that ain’t the one. That’s the one that eat up an + entire box of Seidlitz powders, and then hadn’t any more judgment + than to go and take a drink. He was considered to be a great loss, but I + never could see it. Well, no matter about the names. Mrs. Brown wanted to + be reasonable, but Mrs. Jones wouldn’t let her. She put her up to + going to law for damages. So to law she went, and had the face to claim + seven shillings and sixpence. It made a great stir. All the neighbors went + to court. Everybody took sides. It got hotter and hotter, and broke up all + the friendships for three hundred yards around—friendships that had + lasted for generations and generations. + </p> + <p> + “Well, I proved by eleven witnesses that the cat was of a low + character and very ornery, and warn’t worth a canceled + postage-stamp, anyway, taking the average of cats here; but I lost the + case. What could I expect? The system is all wrong here, and is bound to + make revolution and bloodshed some day. You see, they give the magistrate + a poor little starvation salary, and then turn him loose on the public to + gouge for fees and costs to live on. What is the natural result? Why, he + never looks into the justice of a case—never once. All he looks at + is which client has got the money. So this one piled the fees and costs + and everything on to me. I could pay specie, don’t you see? and he + knew mighty well that if he put the verdict on to Mrs. Brown, where it + belonged, he’d have to take his swag in currency.” + </p> + <p> + “Currency? Why, has Bermuda a currency?” + </p> + <p> + “Yes—onions. And they were forty per cent. discount, too, + then, because the season had been over as much as three months. So I lost + my case. I had to pay for that cat. But the general trouble the case made + was the worst thing about it. Broke up so much good feeling. The neighbors + don’t speak to each other now. Mrs. Brown had named a child after + me. But she changed its name right away. She is a Baptist. Well, in the + course of baptizing it over again it got drowned. I was hoping we might + get to be friendly again some time or other, but of course this drowning + the child knocked that all out of the question. It would have saved a + world of heartbreak and ill blood if she had named it dry.” + </p> + <p> + I knew by the sigh that this was honest. All this trouble and all this + destruction of confidence in the purity of the bench on account of a + seven-shilling lawsuit about a cat! Somehow, it seemed to “size” + the country. + </p> + <p> + At this point we observed that an English flag had just been placed at + half-mast on a building a hundred yards away. I and my friends were busy + in an instant trying to imagine whose death, among the island dignitaries, + could command such a mark of respect as this. Then a shudder shook them + and me at the same moment, and I knew that we had jumped to one and the + same conclusion: “The governor has gone to England; it is for the + British admiral!” + </p> + <p> + At this moment Mr. Smith noticed the flag. He said with emotion: + </p> + <p> + “That’s on a boarding-house. I judge there’s a boarder + dead.” + </p> + <p> + A dozen other flags within view went to half-mast. + </p> + <p> + “It’s a boarder, sure,” said Smith. + </p> + <p> + “But would they half-mast the flags here for a boarder, Mr. Smith?” + </p> + <p> + “Why, certainly they would, if he was dead.” + </p> + <p> + That seemed to size the country again. + </p> + <p> + <a name="link2H_4_0004" id="link2H_4_0004"> + <!-- H2 anchor --> </a> + </p> + <div style="height: 4em;"> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </div> + <h2> + IV. + </h2> + <p> + The early twilight of a Sunday evening in Hamilton, Bermuda, is an + alluring time. There is just enough of whispering breeze, fragrance of + flowers, and sense of repose to raise one’s thoughts heavenward; and + just enough amateur piano music to keep him reminded of the other place. + There are many venerable pianos in Hamilton, and they all play at + twilight. Age enlarges and enriches the powers of some musical instruments—notably + those of the violin—but it seems to set a piano’s teeth on + edge. Most of the music in vogue there is the same that those pianos + prattled in their innocent infancy; and there is something very pathetic + about it when they go over it now, in their asthmatic second childhood, + dropping a note here and there where a tooth is gone. + </p> + <p> + We attended evening service at the stately Episcopal church on the hill, + where five or six hundred people, half of them white and the other half + black, according to the usual Bermudian proportions; and all well dressed—a + thing which is also usual in Bermuda and to be confidently expected. There + was good music, which we heard, and doubtless—a good sermon, but + there was a wonderful deal of coughing, and so only the high parts of the + argument carried over it. As we came out, after service, I overheard one + young girl say to another: + </p> + <p> + “Why, you don’t mean to say you pay duty on gloves and laces! + I only pay postage; have them done up and sent in the Boston Advertiser.” + </p> + <p> + There are those that believe that the most difficult thing to create is a + woman who can comprehend that it is wrong to smuggle; and that an + impossible thing to create is a woman who will not smuggle, whether or no, + when she gets a chance. But these may be errors. + </p> + <p> + We went wandering off toward the country, and were soon far down in the + lonely black depths of a road that was roofed over with the dense foliage + of a double rank of great cedars. There was no sound of any kind there; it + was perfectly still. And it was so dark that one could detect nothing but + somber outlines. We strode farther and farther down this tunnel, cheering + the way with chat. + </p> + <p> + Presently the chat took this shape: “How insensibly the character of + the people and of a government makes its impress upon a stranger, and + gives him a sense of security or of insecurity without his taking + deliberate thought upon the matter or asking anybody a question! We have + been in this land half a day; we have seen none but honest faces; we have + noted the British flag flying, which means efficient government and good + order; so without inquiry we plunge unarmed and with perfect confidence + into this dismal place, which in almost any other country would swarm with + thugs and garroters—” + </p> + <p> + ‘Sh! What was that? Stealthy footsteps! Low voices! We gasp, we + close up together, and wait. A vague shape glides out of the dusk and + confronts us. A voice speaks—demands money! + </p> + <p> + “A shilling, gentlemen, if you please, to help build the new + Methodist church.” + </p> + <p> + Blessed sound! Holy sound! We contribute with thankful avidity to the new + Methodist church, and are happy to think how lucky it was that those + little colored Sunday-school scholars did not seize upon everything we had + with violence, before we recovered from our momentary helpless condition. + By the light of cigars we write down the names of weightier + philanthropists than ourselves on the contribution cards, and then pass on + into the farther darkness, saying, What sort of a government do they call + this, where they allow little black pious children, with contribution + cards, to plunge out upon peaceable strangers in the dark and scare them + to death? + </p> + <p> + We prowled on several hours, sometimes by the seaside, sometimes inland, + and finally managed to get lost, which is a feat that requires talent in + Bermuda. I had on new shoes. They were No. 7's when I started, but were + not more than 5's now, and still diminishing. I walked two hours in those + shoes after that, before we reached home. Doubtless I could have the + reader’s sympathy for the asking. Many people have never had the + headache or the toothache, and I am one of those myself; but everybody has + worn tight shoes for two or three hours, and known the luxury of taking + them off in a retired place and seeing his feet swell up and obscure the + firmament. Once when I was a callow, bashful cub, I took a plain, + unsentimental country girl to a comedy one night. I had known her a day; + she seemed divine; I wore my new boots. At the end of the first half-hour + she said, “Why do you fidget so with your feet?” I said, + “Did I?” Then I put my attention there and kept still. At the + end of another half-hour she said, “Why do you say, ‘Yes, oh + yes!’ and ‘Ha, ha, oh, certainly! very true!’ to + everything I say, when half the time those are entirely irrelevant + answers?” I blushed, and explained that I had been a little + absent-minded. At the end of another half-hour she said, “Please, + why do you grin so steadfastly at vacancy, and yet look so sad?” I + explained that I always did that when I was reflecting. An hour passed, + and then she turned and contemplated me with her earnest eyes and said, + “Why do you cry all the time?” I explained that very funny + comedies always made me cry. At last human nature surrendered, and I + secretly slipped my boots off. This was a mistake. I was not able to get + them on any more. It was a rainy night; there were no omnibuses going our + way; and as I walked home, burning up with shame, with the girl on one arm + and my boots under the other, I was an object worthy of some compassion—especially + in those moments of martyrdom when I had to pass through the glare that + fell upon the pavement from street-lamps. Finally, this child of the + forest said, “Where are your boots?” and being taken + unprepared, I put a fitting finish to the follies of the evening with the + stupid remark, “The higher classes do not wear them to the theater.” + </p> + <p> + The Reverend had been an army chaplain during the war, and while we were + hunting for a road that would lead to Hamilton he told a story about two + dying soldiers which interested me in spite of my feet. He said that in + the Potomac hospitals rough pine coffins were furnished by government, but + that it was not always possible to keep up with the demand; so, when a man + died, if there was no coffin at hand he was buried without one. One night, + late, two soldiers lay dying in a ward. A man came in with a coffin on his + shoulder, and stood trying to make up his mind which of these two poor + fellows would be likely to need it first. Both of them begged for it with + their fading eyes—they were past talking. Then one of them protruded + a wasted hand from his blankets and made a feeble beckoning sign with the + fingers, to signify, “Be a good fellow; put it under my bed, please.” + The man did it, and left. The lucky soldier painfully turned himself in + his bed until he faced the other warrior, raised himself partly on his + elbow, and began to work up a mysterious expression of some kind in his + face. Gradually, irksomely, but surely and steadily, it developed, and at + last it took definite form as a pretty successful wink. The sufferer fell + back exhausted with his labor, but bathed in glory. Now entered a personal + friend of No. 2, the despoiled soldier. No. 2 pleaded with him with + eloquent eyes, till presently he understood, and removed the coffin from + under No. 1's bed and put it under No. 2's. No. 2 indicated his joy, and + made some more signs; the friend understood again, and put his arm under + No. 2's shoulders and lifted him partly up. Then the dying hero turned the + dim exultation of his eye upon No. 1, and began a slow and labored work + with his hands; gradually he lifted one hand up toward his face; it grew + weak and dropped back again; once more he made the effort, but failed + again. He took a rest; he gathered all the remnant of his strength, and + this time he slowly but surely carried his thumb to the side of his nose, + spread the gaunt fingers wide in triumph, and dropped back dead. That + picture sticks by me yet. The “situation” is unique. + </p> + <p> + The next morning, at what seemed a very early hour, the little white + table-waiter appeared suddenly in my room and shot a single word out of + himself “Breakfast!” + </p> + <p> + This was a remarkable boy in many ways. He was about eleven years old; he + had alert, intent black eyes; he was quick of movement; there was no + hesitation, no uncertainty about him anywhere; there was a military + decision in his lip, his manner, his speech, that was an astonishing thing + to see in a little chap like him; he wasted no words; his answers always + came so quick and brief that they seemed to be part of the question that + had been asked instead of a reply to it. When he stood at table with his + fly-brush, rigid, erect, his face set in a cast-iron gravity, he was a + statue till he detected a dawning want in somebody’s eye; then he + pounced down, supplied it, and was instantly a statue again. When he was + sent to the kitchen for anything, he marched upright till he got to the + door; he turned hand-springs the rest of the way. + </p> + <p> + “Breakfast!” + </p> + <p> + I thought I would make one more effort to get some conversation out of + this being. + </p> + <p> + “Have you called the Reverend, or are—” + </p> + <p> + “Yes s’r!” + </p> + <p> + “Is it early, or is—” + </p> + <p> + “Eight-five.” + </p> + <p> + “Do you have to do all the ‘chores,’ or is there + somebody to give you a—” + </p> + <p> + “Colored girl.” + </p> + <p> + “Is there only one parish in this island, or are there—” + </p> + <p> + “Eight!” + </p> + <p> + “Is the big church on the hill a parish church, or is it—” + </p> + <p> + “Chapel-of-ease!” + </p> + <p> + “Is taxation here classified into poll, parish, town, and—” + </p> + <p> + “Don’t know!” + </p> + <p> + Before I could cudgel another question out of my head, he was below, + hand-springing across the back yard. He had slid down the balusters, + headfirst. I gave up trying to provoke a discussion with him. The + essential element of discussion had been left out of him; his answers were + so final and exact that they did not leave a doubt to hang conversation + on. I suspect that there is the making of a mighty man or a mighty rascal + in this boy—according to circumstances—but they are going to + apprentice him to a carpenter. It is the way the world uses its + opportunities. + </p> + <p> + During this day and the next we took carriage drives about the island and + over to the town of St. George’s, fifteen or twenty miles away. Such + hard, excellent roads to drive over are not to be found elsewhere out of + Europe. An intelligent young colored man drove us, and acted as + guide-book. In the edge of the town we saw five or six mountain-cabbage + palms (atrocious name!) standing in a straight row, and equidistant from + each other. These were not the largest or the tallest trees I have ever + seen, but they were the stateliest, the most majestic. That row of them + must be the nearest that nature has ever come to counterfeiting a + colonnade. These trees are all the same height, say sixty feet; the trunks + as gray as granite, with a very gradual and perfect taper; without sign of + branch or knot or flaw; the surface not looking like bark, but like + granite that has been dressed and not polished. Thus all the way up the + diminishing shaft for fifty feet; then it begins to take the appearance of + being closely wrapped, spool-fashion, with gray cord, or of having been + turned in a lathe. Above this point there is an outward swell, and thence + upward for six feet or more the cylinder is a bright, fresh green, and is + formed of wrappings like those of an ear of green Indian corn. Then comes + the great, spraying palm plume, also green. Other palm trees always lean + out of the perpendicular, or have a curve in them. But the plumb-line + could not detect a deflection in any individual of this stately row; they + stand as straight as the colonnade of Baalbec; they have its great height, + they have its gracefulness, they have its dignity; in moonlight or + twilight, and shorn of their plumes, they would duplicate it. + </p> + <p> + The birds we came across in the country were singularly tame; even that + wild creature, the quail, would pick around in the grass at ease while we + inspected it and talked about it at leisure. A small bird of the canary + species had to be stirred up with the butt-end of the whip before it would + move, and then it moved only a couple of feet. It is said that even the + suspicious flea is tame and sociable in Bermuda, and will allow himself to + be caught and caressed without misgivings. This should be taken with + allowance, for doubtless there is more or less brag about it. In San + Francisco they used to claim that their native flea could kick a child + over, as if it were a merit in a flea to be able to do that; as if the + knowledge of it trumpeted abroad ought to entice immigration. Such a thing + in nine cases out of ten would be almost sure to deter a thinking man from + coming. + </p> + <p> + We saw no bugs or reptiles to speak of, and so I was thinking of saying in + print, in a general way, that there were none at all; but one night after + I had gone to bed, the Reverend came into my room carrying something, and + asked, “Is this your boot?” I said it was, and he said he had + met a spider going off with it. Next morning he stated that just at dawn + the same spider raised his window and was coming in to get a shirt, but + saw him and fled. + </p> + <p> + I inquired, “Did he get the shirt?” + </p> + <p> + “No.” + </p> + <p> + “How did you know it was a shirt he was after?” + </p> + <p> + “I could see it in his eye.” + </p> + <p> + We inquired around, but could hear of no Bermudian spider capable of doing + these things. Citizens said that their largest spiders could not more than + spread their legs over an ordinary saucer, and that they had always been + considered honest. Here was testimony of a clergyman against the testimony + of mere worldlings—interested ones, too. On the whole, I judged it + best to lock up my things. + </p> + <p> + Here and there on the country roads we found lemon, papaw, orange, lime, + and fig trees; also several sorts of palms, among them the cocoa, the + date, and the palmetto. We saw some bamboos forty feet high, with stems as + thick as a man’s arm. Jungles of the mangrove tree stood up out of + swamps; propped on their interlacing roots as upon a tangle of stilts. In + drier places the noble tamarind sent down its grateful cloud of shade. + Here and there the blossomy tamarisk adorned the roadside. There was a + curious gnarled and twisted black tree, without a single leaf on it. It + might have passed itself off for a dead apple tree but for the fact that + it had a star-like, red-hot flower sprinkled sparsely over its person. It + had the scattery red glow that a constellation might have when glimpsed + through smoked glass. It is possible that our constellations have been so + constructed as to be invisible through smoked glass; if this is so it is a + great mistake. + </p> + <p> + We saw a tree that bears grapes, and just as calmly and unostentatiously + as a vine would do it. We saw an India-rubber tree, but out of season, + possibly, so there were no shoes on it, nor suspenders, nor anything that + a person would properly expect to find there. This gave it an impressively + fraudulent look. There was exactly one mahogany tree on the island. I know + this to be reliable, because I saw a man who said he had counted it many a + time and could not be mistaken. He was a man with a harelip and a pure + heart, and everybody said he was as true as steel. Such men are all too + few. + </p> + <p> + One’s eye caught near and far the pink cloud of the oleander and the + red blaze of the pomegranate blossom. In one piece of wild wood the + morning-glory vines had wrapped the trees to their very tops, and + decorated them all over with couples and clusters of great bluebells—a + fine and striking spectacle, at a little distance. But the dull cedar is + everywhere, and is the prevailing foliage. One does not appreciate how + dull it is until the varnished, bright green attire of the infrequent + lemon tree pleasantly intrudes its contrast. In one thing Bermuda is + eminently tropical—was in May, at least—the unbrilliant, + slightly faded, unrejoicing look of the landscape. For forests arrayed in + a blemishless magnificence of glowing green foliage that seems to exult in + its own existence and can move the beholder to an enthusiasm that will + make him either shout or cry, one must go to countries that have malignant + winters. + </p> + <p> + We saw scores of colored farmers digging their crops of potatoes and + onions, their wives and children helping—entirely contented and + comfortable, if looks go for anything. We never met a man, or woman, or + child anywhere in this sunny island who seemed to be unprosperous, or + discontented, or sorry about anything. This sort of monotony became very + tiresome presently, and even something worse. The spectacle of an entire + nation groveling in contentment is an infuriating thing. We felt the lack + of something in this community—a vague, an indefinable, an elusive + something, and yet a lack. But after considerable thought we made out what + it was—tramps. Let them go there, right now, in a body. It is + utterly virgin soil. Passage is cheap. Every true patriot in America will + help buy tickets. Whole armies of these excellent beings can be spared + from our midst and our polls; they will find a delicious climate and a + green, kind-hearted people. There are potatoes and onions for all, and a + generous welcome for the first batch that arrives, and elegant graves for + the second. + </p> + <p> + It was the Early Rose potato the people were digging. Later in the year + they have another crop, which they call the Garnet. We buy their potatoes + (retail) at fifteen dollars a barrel; and those colored farmers buy ours + for a song, and live on them. Havana might exchange cigars with + Connecticut in the same advantageous way, if she thought of it. + </p> + <p> + We passed a roadside grocery with a sign up, “Potatoes Wanted.” + An ignorant stranger, doubtless. He could not have gone thirty steps from + his place without finding plenty of them. + </p> + <p> + In several fields the arrowroot crop was already sprouting. Bermuda used + to make a vast annual profit out of this staple before firearms came into + such general use. + </p> + <p> + The island is not large. Somewhere in the interior a man ahead of us had a + very slow horse. I suggested that we had better go by him; but the driver + said the man had but a little way to go. I waited to see, wondering how he + could know. Presently the man did turn down another road. I asked, “How + did you know he would?” + </p> + <p> + “Because I knew the man, and where he lived.” + </p> + <p> + I asked him, satirically, if he knew everybody in the island; he answered, + very simply, that he did. This gives a body’s mind a good + substantial grip on the dimensions of the place. + </p> + <p> + At the principal hotel at St. George’s, a young girl, with a sweet, + serious face, said we could not be furnished with dinner, because we had + not been expected, and no preparation had been made. Yet it was still an + hour before dinner-time. We argued, she yielded not; we supplicated, she + was serene. The hotel had not been expecting an inundation of two people, + and so it seemed that we should have to go home dinnerless. I said we were + not very hungry; a fish would do. My little maid answered, it was not the + market-day for fish. Things began to look serious; but presently the + boarder who sustained the hotel came in, and when the case was laid before + him he was cheerfully willing to divide. So we had much pleasant chat at + table about St. George’s chief industry, the repairing of damaged + ships; and in between we had a soup that had something in it that seemed + to taste like the hereafter, but it proved to be only pepper of a + particularly vivacious kind. And we had an iron-clad chicken that was + deliciously cooked, but not in the right way. Baking was not the thing to + convince this sort. He ought to have been put through a quartz-mill until + the “tuck” was taken out of him, and then boiled till we came + again. We got a good deal of sport out of him, but not enough sustenance + to leave the victory on our side. No matter; we had potatoes and a pie and + a sociable good time. Then a ramble through the town, which is a quaint + one, with interesting, crooked streets, and narrow, crooked lanes, with + here and there a grain of dust. Here, as in Hamilton, the dwellings had + Venetian blinds of a very sensible pattern. They were not double shutters, + hinged at the sides, but a single broad shutter, hinged at the top; you + push it outward, from the bottom, and fasten it at any angle required by + the sun or desired by yourself. + </p> + <p> + All about the island one sees great white scars on the hill-slopes. These + are dished spaces where the soil has been scraped off and the coral + exposed and glazed with hard whitewash. Some of these are a quarter-acre + in size. They catch and carry the rainfall to reservoirs; for the wells + are few and poor, and there are no natural springs and no brooks. + </p> + <p> + They say that the Bermuda climate is mild and equable, with never any snow + or ice, and that one may be very comfortable in spring clothing the year + round, there. We had delightful and decided summer weather in May, with a + flaming sun that permitted the thinnest of raiment, and yet there was a + constant breeze; consequently we were never discomforted by heat. At four + or five in the afternoon the mercury began to go down, and then it became + necessary to change to thick garments. I went to St. George’s in the + morning clothed in the thinnest of linen, and reached home at five in the + afternoon with two overcoats on. The nights are said to be always cool and + bracing. We had mosquito-nets, and the Reverend said the mosquitoes + persecuted him a good deal. I often heard him slapping and banging at + these imaginary creatures with as much zeal as if they had been real. + There are no mosquitoes in the Bermudas in May. + </p> + <p> + The poet Thomas Moore spent several months in Bermuda more than seventy + years ago. He was sent out to be registrar of the admiralty. I am not + quite clear as to the function of a registrar of the admiralty of Bermuda, + but I think it is his duty to keep a record of all the admirals born + there. I will inquire into this. There was not much doing in admirals, and + Moore got tired and went away. A reverently preserved souvenir of him is + still one of the treasures of the islands: I gathered the idea, vaguely, + that it was a jug, but was persistently thwarted in the twenty-two efforts + I made to visit it. However, it was no matter, for I found out afterward + that it was only a chair. + </p> + <p> + There are several “sights” in the Bermudas, of course, but + they are easily avoided. This is a great advantage—one cannot have + it in Europe. Bermuda is the right country for a jaded man to “loaf” + in. There are no harassments; the deep peace and quiet of the country sink + into one’s body and bones and give his conscience a rest, and + chloroform the legion of invisible small devils that are always trying to + whitewash his hair. A good many Americans go there about the first of + March and remain until the early spring weeks have finished their + villainies at home. + </p> + <p> + The Bermudians are hoping soon to have telegraphic communication with the + world. But even after they shall have acquired this curse it will still be + a good country to go to for a vacation, for there are charming little + islets scattered about the inclosed sea where one could live secure from + interruption. The telegraph-boy would have to come in a boat, and one + could easily kill him while he was making his landing. + </p> + <p> + We had spent four days in Bermuda—three bright ones out of doors and + one rainy one in the house, we being disappointed about getting a yacht + for a sail; and now our furlough was ended, and we entered into the ship + again and sailed homeward. + </p> + <p> + We made the run home to New York quarantine in three days and five hours, + and could have gone right along up to the city if we had had a health + permit. But health permits are not granted after seven in the evening, + partly because a ship cannot be inspected and overhauled with exhaustive, + thoroughness except in daylight, and partly because health-officers are + liable to catch cold if they expose themselves to the night air. Still, + you can buy a permit after hours for five dollars extra, and the officer + will do the inspecting next week. Our ship and passengers lay under + expense and in humiliating captivity all night, under the very nose of the + little official reptile who is supposed to protect New York from + pestilence by his vigilant “inspections.” This imposing rigor + gave everybody a solemn and awful idea of the beneficent watchfulness of + our government, and there were some who wondered if anything finer could + be found in other countries. + </p> + <p> + In the morning we were all a-tiptoe to witness the intricate ceremony of + inspecting the ship. But it was a disappointing thing. The health-officer’s + tug ranged alongside for a moment, our purser handed the lawful + three-dollar permit fee to the health-officer’s bootblack, who + passed us a folded paper in a forked stick, and away we went. The entire + “inspection” did not occupy thirteen seconds. + </p> + <p> + The health-officer’s place is worth a hundred thousand dollars a + year to him. His system of inspection is perfect, and therefore cannot be + improved on; but it seems to me that his system of collecting his fees + might be amended. For a great ship to lie idle all night is a most costly + loss of time; for her passengers to have to do the same thing works to + them the same damage, with the addition of an amount of exasperation and + bitterness of soul that the spectacle of that health-officer’s ashes + on a shovel could hardly sweeten. Now why would it not be better and + simpler to let the ships pass in unmolested, and the fees and permits be + exchanged once a year by post. + </p> +<pre xml:space="preserve"> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Some Rambling Notes of an Idle +Excursion, by Mark Twain (Samuel Clemens) + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK RAMBLING NOTES *** + +***** This file should be named 3182-h.htm or 3182-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/3/1/8/3182/ + +Produced by David Widger + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. Special rules, +set forth in the General Terms of Use part of this license, apply to +copying and distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works to +protect the PROJECT GUTENBERG-tm concept and trademark. Project +Gutenberg is a registered trademark, and may not be used if you +charge for the eBooks, unless you receive specific permission. If you +do not charge anything for copies of this eBook, complying with the +rules is very easy. You may use this eBook for nearly any purpose +such as creation of derivative works, reports, performances and +research. They may be modified and printed and given away--you may do +practically ANYTHING with public domain eBooks. Redistribution is +subject to the trademark license, especially commercial +redistribution. + + + +*** START: FULL LICENSE *** + +THE FULL PROJECT GUTENBERG LICENSE +PLEASE READ THIS BEFORE YOU DISTRIBUTE OR USE THIS WORK + +To protect the Project Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting the free +distribution of electronic works, by using or distributing this work +(or any other work associated in any way with the phrase “Project +Gutenberg”), you agree to comply with all the terms of the Full Project +Gutenberg-tm License (available with this file or online at +https://gutenberg.org/license). + + +Section 1. General Terms of Use and Redistributing Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic works + +1.A. By reading or using any part of this Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic work, you indicate that you have read, understand, agree to +and accept all the terms of this license and intellectual property +(trademark/copyright) agreement. If you do not agree to abide by all +the terms of this agreement, you must cease using and return or destroy +all copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in your possession. +If you paid a fee for obtaining a copy of or access to a Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic work and you do not agree to be bound by the +terms of this agreement, you may obtain a refund from the person or +entity to whom you paid the fee as set forth in paragraph 1.E.8. + +1.B. “Project Gutenberg” is a registered trademark. It may only be +used on or associated in any way with an electronic work by people who +agree to be bound by the terms of this agreement. There are a few +things that you can do with most Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works +even without complying with the full terms of this agreement. See +paragraph 1.C below. There are a lot of things you can do with Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works if you follow the terms of this agreement +and help preserve free future access to Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works. See paragraph 1.E below. + +1.C. The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation (“the Foundation” + or PGLAF), owns a compilation copyright in the collection of Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic works. Nearly all the individual works in the +collection are in the public domain in the United States. If an +individual work is in the public domain in the United States and you are +located in the United States, we do not claim a right to prevent you from +copying, distributing, performing, displaying or creating derivative +works based on the work as long as all references to Project Gutenberg +are removed. Of course, we hope that you will support the Project +Gutenberg-tm mission of promoting free access to electronic works by +freely sharing Project Gutenberg-tm works in compliance with the terms of +this agreement for keeping the Project Gutenberg-tm name associated with +the work. You can easily comply with the terms of this agreement by +keeping this work in the same format with its attached full Project +Gutenberg-tm License when you share it without charge with others. + +1.D. The copyright laws of the place where you are located also govern +what you can do with this work. Copyright laws in most countries are in +a constant state of change. If you are outside the United States, check +the laws of your country in addition to the terms of this agreement +before downloading, copying, displaying, performing, distributing or +creating derivative works based on this work or any other Project +Gutenberg-tm work. The Foundation makes no representations concerning +the copyright status of any work in any country outside the United +States. + +1.E. Unless you have removed all references to Project Gutenberg: + +1.E.1. The following sentence, with active links to, or other immediate +access to, the full Project Gutenberg-tm License must appear prominently +whenever any copy of a Project Gutenberg-tm work (any work on which the +phrase “Project Gutenberg” appears, or with which the phrase “Project +Gutenberg” is associated) is accessed, displayed, performed, viewed, +copied or distributed: + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + +1.E.2. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is derived +from the public domain (does not contain a notice indicating that it is +posted with permission of the copyright holder), the work can be copied +and distributed to anyone in the United States without paying any fees +or charges. If you are redistributing or providing access to a work +with the phrase “Project Gutenberg” associated with or appearing on the +work, you must comply either with the requirements of paragraphs 1.E.1 +through 1.E.7 or obtain permission for the use of the work and the +Project Gutenberg-tm trademark as set forth in paragraphs 1.E.8 or +1.E.9. + +1.E.3. If an individual Project Gutenberg-tm electronic work is posted +with the permission of the copyright holder, your use and distribution +must comply with both paragraphs 1.E.1 through 1.E.7 and any additional +terms imposed by the copyright holder. Additional terms will be linked +to the Project Gutenberg-tm License for all works posted with the +permission of the copyright holder found at the beginning of this work. + +1.E.4. Do not unlink or detach or remove the full Project Gutenberg-tm +License terms from this work, or any files containing a part of this +work or any other work associated with Project Gutenberg-tm. + +1.E.5. Do not copy, display, perform, distribute or redistribute this +electronic work, or any part of this electronic work, without +prominently displaying the sentence set forth in paragraph 1.E.1 with +active links or immediate access to the full terms of the Project +Gutenberg-tm License. + +1.E.6. You may convert to and distribute this work in any binary, +compressed, marked up, nonproprietary or proprietary form, including any +word processing or hypertext form. However, if you provide access to or +distribute copies of a Project Gutenberg-tm work in a format other than +“Plain Vanilla ASCII” or other format used in the official version +posted on the official Project Gutenberg-tm web site (www.gutenberg.org), +you must, at no additional cost, fee or expense to the user, provide a +copy, a means of exporting a copy, or a means of obtaining a copy upon +request, of the work in its original “Plain Vanilla ASCII” or other +form. Any alternate format must include the full Project Gutenberg-tm +License as specified in paragraph 1.E.1. + +1.E.7. Do not charge a fee for access to, viewing, displaying, +performing, copying or distributing any Project Gutenberg-tm works +unless you comply with paragraph 1.E.8 or 1.E.9. + +1.E.8. You may charge a reasonable fee for copies of or providing +access to or distributing Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works provided +that + +- You pay a royalty fee of 20% of the gross profits you derive from + the use of Project Gutenberg-tm works calculated using the method + you already use to calculate your applicable taxes. The fee is + owed to the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark, but he + has agreed to donate royalties under this paragraph to the + Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation. Royalty payments + must be paid within 60 days following each date on which you + prepare (or are legally required to prepare) your periodic tax + returns. Royalty payments should be clearly marked as such and + sent to the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation at the + address specified in Section 4, “Information about donations to + the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation.” + +- You provide a full refund of any money paid by a user who notifies + you in writing (or by e-mail) within 30 days of receipt that s/he + does not agree to the terms of the full Project Gutenberg-tm + License. You must require such a user to return or + destroy all copies of the works possessed in a physical medium + and discontinue all use of and all access to other copies of + Project Gutenberg-tm works. + +- You provide, in accordance with paragraph 1.F.3, a full refund of any + money paid for a work or a replacement copy, if a defect in the + electronic work is discovered and reported to you within 90 days + of receipt of the work. + +- You comply with all other terms of this agreement for free + distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm works. + +1.E.9. If you wish to charge a fee or distribute a Project Gutenberg-tm +electronic work or group of works on different terms than are set +forth in this agreement, you must obtain permission in writing from +both the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation and Michael +Hart, the owner of the Project Gutenberg-tm trademark. Contact the +Foundation as set forth in Section 3 below. + +1.F. + +1.F.1. Project Gutenberg volunteers and employees expend considerable +effort to identify, do copyright research on, transcribe and proofread +public domain works in creating the Project Gutenberg-tm +collection. Despite these efforts, Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works, and the medium on which they may be stored, may contain +“Defects,” such as, but not limited to, incomplete, inaccurate or +corrupt data, transcription errors, a copyright or other intellectual +property infringement, a defective or damaged disk or other medium, a +computer virus, or computer codes that damage or cannot be read by +your equipment. + +1.F.2. LIMITED WARRANTY, DISCLAIMER OF DAMAGES - Except for the “Right +of Replacement or Refund” described in paragraph 1.F.3, the Project +Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation, the owner of the Project +Gutenberg-tm trademark, and any other party distributing a Project +Gutenberg-tm electronic work under this agreement, disclaim all +liability to you for damages, costs and expenses, including legal +fees. YOU AGREE THAT YOU HAVE NO REMEDIES FOR NEGLIGENCE, STRICT +LIABILITY, BREACH OF WARRANTY OR BREACH OF CONTRACT EXCEPT THOSE +PROVIDED IN PARAGRAPH F3. YOU AGREE THAT THE FOUNDATION, THE +TRADEMARK OWNER, AND ANY DISTRIBUTOR UNDER THIS AGREEMENT WILL NOT BE +LIABLE TO YOU FOR ACTUAL, DIRECT, INDIRECT, CONSEQUENTIAL, PUNITIVE OR +INCIDENTAL DAMAGES EVEN IF YOU GIVE NOTICE OF THE POSSIBILITY OF SUCH +DAMAGE. + +1.F.3. LIMITED RIGHT OF REPLACEMENT OR REFUND - If you discover a +defect in this electronic work within 90 days of receiving it, you can +receive a refund of the money (if any) you paid for it by sending a +written explanation to the person you received the work from. If you +received the work on a physical medium, you must return the medium with +your written explanation. The person or entity that provided you with +the defective work may elect to provide a replacement copy in lieu of a +refund. If you received the work electronically, the person or entity +providing it to you may choose to give you a second opportunity to +receive the work electronically in lieu of a refund. If the second copy +is also defective, you may demand a refund in writing without further +opportunities to fix the problem. + +1.F.4. Except for the limited right of replacement or refund set forth +in paragraph 1.F.3, this work is provided to you ‘AS-IS’ WITH NO OTHER +WARRANTIES OF ANY KIND, EXPRESS OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO +WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTIBILITY OR FITNESS FOR ANY PURPOSE. + +1.F.5. Some states do not allow disclaimers of certain implied +warranties or the exclusion or limitation of certain types of damages. +If any disclaimer or limitation set forth in this agreement violates the +law of the state applicable to this agreement, the agreement shall be +interpreted to make the maximum disclaimer or limitation permitted by +the applicable state law. The invalidity or unenforceability of any +provision of this agreement shall not void the remaining provisions. + +1.F.6. INDEMNITY - You agree to indemnify and hold the Foundation, the +trademark owner, any agent or employee of the Foundation, anyone +providing copies of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works in accordance +with this agreement, and any volunteers associated with the production, +promotion and distribution of Project Gutenberg-tm electronic works, +harmless from all liability, costs and expenses, including legal fees, +that arise directly or indirectly from any of the following which you do +or cause to occur: (a) distribution of this or any Project Gutenberg-tm +work, (b) alteration, modification, or additions or deletions to any +Project Gutenberg-tm work, and (c) any Defect you cause. + + +Section 2. Information about the Mission of Project Gutenberg-tm + +Project Gutenberg-tm is synonymous with the free distribution of +electronic works in formats readable by the widest variety of computers +including obsolete, old, middle-aged and new computers. It exists +because of the efforts of hundreds of volunteers and donations from +people in all walks of life. + +Volunteers and financial support to provide volunteers with the +assistance they need, is critical to reaching Project Gutenberg-tm’s +goals and ensuring that the Project Gutenberg-tm collection will +remain freely available for generations to come. In 2001, the Project +Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation was created to provide a secure +and permanent future for Project Gutenberg-tm and future generations. +To learn more about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation +and how your efforts and donations can help, see Sections 3 and 4 +and the Foundation web page at https://www.pglaf.org. + + +Section 3. Information about the Project Gutenberg Literary Archive +Foundation + +The Project Gutenberg Literary Archive Foundation is a non profit +501(c)(3) educational corporation organized under the laws of the +state of Mississippi and granted tax exempt status by the Internal +Revenue Service. The Foundation’s EIN or federal tax identification +number is 64-6221541. Its 501(c)(3) letter is posted at +https://pglaf.org/fundraising. Contributions to the Project Gutenberg +Literary Archive Foundation are tax deductible to the full extent +permitted by U.S. federal laws and your state’s laws. + +The Foundation’s principal office is located at 4557 Melan Dr. S. +Fairbanks, AK, 99712., but its volunteers and employees are scattered +throughout numerous locations. Its business office is located at +809 North 1500 West, Salt Lake City, UT 84116, (801) 596-1887, email +business@pglaf.org. Email contact links and up to date contact +information can be found at the Foundation’s web site and official +page at https://pglaf.org + +For additional contact information: + Dr. Gregory B. Newby + Chief Executive and Director + gbnewby@pglaf.org + + +Section 4. Information about Donations to the Project Gutenberg +Literary Archive Foundation + +Project Gutenberg-tm depends upon and cannot survive without wide +spread public support and donations to carry out its mission of +increasing the number of public domain and licensed works that can be +freely distributed in machine readable form accessible by the widest +array of equipment including outdated equipment. Many small donations +($1 to $5,000) are particularly important to maintaining tax exempt +status with the IRS. + +The Foundation is committed to complying with the laws regulating +charities and charitable donations in all 50 states of the United +States. Compliance requirements are not uniform and it takes a +considerable effort, much paperwork and many fees to meet and keep up +with these requirements. We do not solicit donations in locations +where we have not received written confirmation of compliance. To +SEND DONATIONS or determine the status of compliance for any +particular state visit https://pglaf.org + +While we cannot and do not solicit contributions from states where we +have not met the solicitation requirements, we know of no prohibition +against accepting unsolicited donations from donors in such states who +approach us with offers to donate. + +International donations are gratefully accepted, but we cannot make +any statements concerning tax treatment of donations received from +outside the United States. U.S. laws alone swamp our small staff. + +Please check the Project Gutenberg Web pages for current donation +methods and addresses. Donations are accepted in a number of other +ways including including checks, online payments and credit card +donations. To donate, please visit: https://pglaf.org/donate + + +Section 5. General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works. + +Professor Michael S. Hart was the originator of the Project Gutenberg-tm +concept of a library of electronic works that could be freely shared +with anyone. For thirty years, he produced and distributed Project +Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of volunteer support. + + +Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed +editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the U.S. +unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we do not necessarily +keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition. + + +Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility: + + https://www.gutenberg.org + +This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, +including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary +Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to +subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. + +</pre> + <p> + <br /><br /><br /><br /> + </p> + </body> +</html> |