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diff --git a/31678-h/31678-h.htm b/31678-h/31678-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..f891c04 --- /dev/null +++ b/31678-h/31678-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,5698 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> +<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml"> +<head> +<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=ISO-8859-1" /> +<title>The Project Gutenberg eBook of In the Border Country, by W. S. (William Shillinglaw) Crockett</title> + <style type="text/css"> + +body { + margin-left: 10%; + margin-right: 10%; +} + + h1,h2,h3,h4,h5,h6 { + text-align: center; /* all headings centered */ + clear: both; +} + +p { + margin-top: .75em; + text-align: justify; + margin-bottom: .75em; +} + +hr { + width: 33%; + margin-top: 2em; + margin-bottom: 2em; + margin-left: auto; + margin-right: auto; + clear: both; +} + +table { + margin-left: auto; + margin-right: auto; +} + +td.rn {text-align: right; vertical-align: bottom;} + +.pagenum { /* uncomment the next line for invisible page numbers */ + /* visibility: hidden; */ + position: absolute; + left: 92%; + font-size: smaller; + text-align: right; +} /* page numbers */ + +.linenum { + position: absolute; + top: auto; + left: 4%; +} /* poetry number */ + +.blockquot { + margin-left: 5%; + margin-right: 10%; +} + +.bb {border-bottom: solid 2px;} + +.bl {border-left: solid 2px;} + +.bt {border-top: solid 2px;} + +.br {border-right: solid 2px;} + +.bbox {border: solid 1px;} + +.center {text-align: center;} + +.smcap {font-variant: small-caps;} + +.u {text-decoration: underline;} + +.caption {font-weight: bold;} + +/* Images */ +.figcenter { + margin: auto; + text-align: center; +} + +.figleft { + float: left; + clear: left; + margin-left: 0; + margin-bottom: 1em; + margin-top: 1em; + margin-right: 1em; + padding: 0; + text-align: center; +} + +.figright { + float: right; + clear: right; + margin-left: 1em; + margin-bottom: + 1em; + margin-top: 1em; + margin-right: 0; + padding: 0; + text-align: center; +} + +/* Footnotes */ +.footnotes {border: dashed 1px;} + +.footnote {margin-left: 10%; margin-right: 10%; font-size: 0.9em;} + +.footnote .label {position: absolute; right: 84%; text-align: right;} + +.fnanchor { + vertical-align: super; + font-size: .8em; + text-decoration: + none; +} + +/* Poetry */ +.poem { + margin-left:10%; + margin-right:10%; + text-align: left; +} + +.poem br {display: none;} + +.poem .stanza {margin: 1em 0em 1em 0em;} + +.poem span.i0 { + display: block; + margin-left: 0em; + padding-left: 3em; + text-indent: -3em; +} + +.poem span.i2 { + display: block; + margin-left: 2em; + padding-left: 3em; + text-indent: -3em; +} + +.poem span.i4 { + display: block; + margin-left: 4em; + padding-left: 3em; + text-indent: -3em; +} + +.tranotes {border: solid 1px #8b4513; + font-size: smaller; + width: 65%; + margin-left: auto; + margin-right: auto; + padding-left: 1em; + padding-right: 1em; + background: #fbf5e6; +} + +.centerbox { width: 50%; /* heading box */ + margin: 0 auto; + text-align: center; + padding: 1em; + } + + hr.full { width: 100%; + margin-top: 3em; + margin-bottom: 0em; + margin-left: auto; + margin-right: auto; + height: 4px; + border-width: 4px 0 0 0; /* remove all borders except the top one */ + border-style: solid; + border-color: #000000; + clear: both; } + pre {font-size: 85%;} + </style> +</head> +<body> +<h1>The Project Gutenberg eBook, In the Border Country, by W. S. (William +Shillinglaw) Crockett, Illustrated by James Orrock</h1> +<pre> +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at <a href = "http://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a></pre> +<p>Title: In the Border Country</p> +<p>Author: W. S. (William Shillinglaw) Crockett</p> +<p>Release Date: March 17, 2010 [eBook #31678]</p> +<p>Language: English</p> +<p>Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1</p> +<p>***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK IN THE BORDER COUNTRY***</p> +<p> </p> +<h3>E-text prepared by Juliet Sutherland, Peter Vickers,<br /> + and the Project Gutenberg Online Distributed Proofreading Team<br /> + (http://www.pgdp.net)</h3> +<p> </p> +<hr class="full" /> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<p> </p> + +<div class="centerbox"><h1>IN THE BORDER COUNTRY</h1></div> + +<hr style="width: 75%;" /> +<h2><a name="POPULAR_BOOKS_ON_ART" id="POPULAR_BOOKS_ON_ART"></a>POPULAR BOOKS ON ART.</h2> + +<p class="center">Edited by W. Shaw Sparrow</p> +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + +<p>THE ART AND LIFE LIBRARY. 1. "<span class="smcap">The British Home +of To-Day</span>" (<i>out of print</i>). 2. "<span class="smcap">The Gospels in Art.</span>" +3. "<span class="smcap">Women Painters of the World.</span>" 4. "<span class="smcap">The Old Testament +in Art</span>," Vol. I. 5. "<span class="smcap">The Modern Home</span>" (<i>out of print</i>). +6. "<span class="smcap">The Old Testament in Art</span>," Vol. II. 7. "<span class="smcap">The Apostles +in Art.</span>"</p> + +<p>HISTORY, TRAVEL, RUSTIC LIFE. 1. "<span class="smcap">Mary Queen +of Scots</span>," with 26 Pictures in Colour by Sir James Linton, R.I., +and James Orrock, R.I.; the text by Walter Wood. 2. "<span class="smcap">In The +Border Country</span>," with 25 Pictures in Colour by James +Orrock, R.I., and Historical Notes by W. S. Crockett. 3. +"<span class="smcap">In Rustic England</span>," with 25 Pictures in Colour by Birket +Foster; the text by A. B. Daryll.</p> + +<p>THE ART AND LIFE MONOGRAPHS. 1. "<span class="smcap">Etchings by +Van Dyck</span>," in Rembrandt Photogravure the full size of the +Original Proofs. Also an Édition de Luxe with Carbon Print +Photographs of all the Etchings; the text by Prof. Dr. H. W. +Singer. 2. "<span class="smcap">Ingres—Master of Pure Draughtsmanship</span>." +Twenty-four Rembrandt Photogravures of important Drawings +and Pictures; the introductions by Arsène Alexandre and W. +Shaw Sparrow.</p> + +<p>ARTISTS OF THE PRESENT DAY. I. "<span class="smcap">Frank Brangwyn, +A.R.A.</span>" the introductions by Léonce Bénédite and W. Shaw +Sparrow. 2. "<span class="smcap">Lucy E. Kemp-Welch</span>," the introductions by +Professor Hubert von Herkomer and Edward F. Strange.</p> + +<p>SERIES OF BIBLE PICTURES. "<span class="smcap">The Saviour in Modern +Art.</span>"</p> + +<hr style="width: 45%;" /> + +<p class="center">London: Hodder & Stoughton</p> + +<hr style="width: 75%;" /> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="Frontispiece" id="Frontispiece"></a> +<img class="bbox" src="images/frontis.jpg" width="600" height="395" alt="VIEW OF DUNSTANBOROUGH" title="VIEW OF DUNSTANBOROUGH" /> +</div> + +<h5>FRONTISPIECE</h5> +<h3>VIEW OF DUNSTANBOROUGH</h3> +<h5>FROM A WATER-COLOUR SKETCH</h5> +<h5>PAINTED BY</h5> +<h3>JAMES ORROCK, R.I.</h3> + +<hr style="width: 75%;" /> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;"> +<a name="TitlePage" id="TitlePage"></a> +<img class="bbox" src="images/illus005.jpg" width="400" height="558" alt="In The Border Country" title="In The Border Country" /> +</div> + +<hr style="width: 75%;" /> + +<h3><a name="Dedication" id="Dedication"></a>DEDICATED<br /> +TO THE MEMORY<br /> +OF<br /> +SIR WALTER SCOTT</h3> + +<hr style="width: 75%;" /> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[Pg 7]</a></span></p> + +<h2><a name="Preface" id="Preface">PREFACE</a></h2> + +<p> +Most of us prefer to spend our holiday tours +away from our own country. There is a +feeling of mild adventure when the land +we behold is unknown to us, and when the +language we hear filters into our questioning minds +through an interpreter's suavity and chatter. And +if we go to Switzerland we may earn even a +reputation for intrepid pluck among the friends +who listen to us on our return home, while the +unlucky guides, who found for our trembling feet +a pathway around each danger, will amuse their +families during the winter with little tales at our +expense, told with rough satire and with short, +gruff peals of laughter resembling the noise of a +crackling ice-sheet when it begins to slip downhill. +</p> + +<p> +No doubt, heroism on the hillside has a vast +attraction to brave, fearless hearts like our own; +but we should find, here in our own country, quite +as much adventure as is good for us, and quite as +much novelty also, if only we could bring ourselves +to believe that knowledge of native scenes and +traditions does not come to us in baptism or by +virtue of our birth as British folk. If you ask a +friend whether he knows the Border Country, he +will probably answer yes, and then go on to say +that he when a lad at school was a great reader +of Scott, and thank heaven! his memory is a good +one. Push the matter further, ask whether he has +verified the truth of Scott's descriptions by a visit +to the places described, and you will probably +hear that your friend would rather dream of the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[Pg 8]</a></span>North Pole or be bitten fiercely by the swarms of +lively insects treasured throughout Brittany in +every cottage and hotel. +</p> + +<p> +All this being somewhat commonplace, you may +wish to get closer to this subject, and your friend +at last, driven to bay, comes to the real point that +pricks and distresses him. "You see," he will +say, "a holiday tour at home is such a dickens of a +gamble. You can't say how much it will cost. +The only thing at all certain about it is that the +cost will be more than you can afford. Wherever +you go you become a goose to be plucked." +</p> + +<p> +Let us rebel against this iniquity! It is not +a question of cheating, it is a trait of the national +character. In Great Britain, as among the Americans, +the gift of long sight in business has become +very common, and few persons think it worth their +while to see the practical good things within easy +reach of the blessed short sight of common sense. +Our chief aim is not to keep a market open and +steady, but to glut it with over-production or to +block it with excessive prices. "Here is a holiday-tripper, +so let us make him pay!" That seems to +be the unconquerable maxim at all seaside resorts +and in every place where tired workers seek rest +and health. I have known a week's holiday in +the New Forest to cost as much as a tour of three +weeks in the beautiful and bracing Ardennes. +The Belgian is content to draw his customers back +to him, while the Englishman grasps all he can get +and sends us away discontented. +</p> + +<p> +It is true that the railway companies are doing +all in their power to make holidays at home welcome +and inexpensive. Their enterprise in this respect +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[Pg 9]</a></span>has no limits. But we cannot live on cheap railway +tickets alone, whether single or return. Something +should be done—and the newspapers could help—to +establish in all attractive districts a reasonable +tariff for board and lodging. It is only thus that +Great Britain will be made popular during the +holiday season, and that the great stream of gold—the +holiday-making Pactolus—will be drawn +from the Continent to nourish our own country +sides and rural folk. +</p> + +<p> +It seems to be certain that, during the reign +of the old stage coach, life in rustic England was +cheaper than it is to-day. At any rate we must +account in some way or other for the immense +number of county histories and illustrated topographical +books which teemed from the press from +the middle of the eighteenth century to the time +of J. M. W. Turner. To study these works is to +be sure that our forefathers took the greatest +delight in their own country, and that huge sums +of money were spent in procuring fine sketches and +adequate engravings. Side by side with these +books on British topography were volumes on +foreign travel, like those by William Alexander, +who in 1792 accompanied Lord Macartney's embassy +to China, where he made many exquisite +sketches, brimful of humour and playful observation. +John Webber, R.A., in 1776, accompanied +Captain Cook on his third and last voyage, and +made a drawing of Cook's death, which Byrne and +Bartolozzi engraved. Two other Royal Academicians, +Thomas and William Daniell, made India +their sketching-ground, and in their great work on +"Oriental Scenery," published in 1808, they devoted +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[Pg 10]</a></span>six volumes to a subject as fascinating as it was +unhackneyed. Many other artists, too, travelled +and made sketches for books, ranging from Girtin's +Paris Views to Turner's "Rivers of France," and +from Sir David Wilkie's Eastern sketches, reproduced +in lithography by Nash, to the familiar work of +Prout, Harding, J. F. Lewis, R.A., and Louis Haghe. +</p> + +<p> +But these books on foreign travel, admirable +as they were, did not eclipse the many volumes on +British scenery and landscape antiquities. All +the ablest men among the earlier water-colour +painters—Hearne, Malton, Dayes, Girtin, Turner, +Francia, Havell, De Wint, David Cox, Cotman—made +topographical sketches for illustrations, and +lucky is he who "finds" their earliest efforts. +To-day, happily, there are signs of renewed life in +the old taste for picture books on the beauty and +romance of our own country. It is a taste that +invigorates, storing the mind with tonic memories +and filling the eyes with beautiful scenes and +colours; and we may be sure that it needs for its +gratification books which are easy to carry and to +read. The great folio of other days, as heavy +almost as a country squire, is rightly treasured in +the British Museum, like the remains of the Neolithic +Man discovered in Egypt. +</p> + +<p> +The subject of the present book—the Border +Country—should set us thinking, not of one holiday, +but of many; and he who has once tasted the +Border's keen rich air will long to return both to it +and to the traditions that dwell among the vast landscapes +and in the ruined castles. The distinguished +connoisseur and painter whose sketches are here +reproduced, has gone back to the Border Country a +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[Pg 11]</a></span>dozen times and more, always to find there a renewal +of his first pleasure and a host of fresh subjects, +that form a delightful connecting-link between each +to-day and the armoured epochs of the long ago. +</p> + +<p> +And if the Border Country, with its enchanted +places and memories, delights a landscape-painter, +it is equally attractive to students of architecture, +to lovers of folk-lore and literary history, to writers +of romance in search of traditions and local colour, +and to those of us also who indulge a passion for +collecting either as botanists or as geologists. +The rivers and streams have a rare fascination, +and anglers, having made their choice, can come +by all the sport which they desire. As to the hills, +they have a certain modesty of height deceptive +to the unwary, for although they have not won for +themselves a reputation for fatalities to be described +as Alpine, they are yet so dangerous when a mist +gathers about them and thickens, that a climber +may lose his life there quite comfortably, and +without enjoying more than the customary amount +of rashness or inexperience. Briefly, men may +find in the Border Country nearly all their hobbies, +and nearly all their professional studies. +</p> + +<p> +In this book the historical notes are written +by one who lives by the Tweed, and whose name +is associated with Border subjects. Mr. Crockett's +work is filled with the Past, while the outdoor +sketches by Mr. Orrock are at once so faithful +topographically, and so much in sympathy with the +classic traditions of English Water-Colour, that +they show us what the Border Country is to-day, +when seen through the medium of a painter's +observation and knowledge. +</p> + +<p style="text-align: right"> +W. SHAW SPARROW.<br /> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[Pg 12]</a></span></p> + +<hr style="width: 75%;" /> + +<table border="0" cellpadding="0" width="55%" cellspacing="0" summary="CONTENTS"> +<tr> +<td colspan="2" class="center"><h2><a name="Contents" id="Contents">CONTENTS.</a></h2></td> +<td class="rn"></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2"></td> +<td class="rn">Page</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2"><a href="#TitlePage">Title Page. By David Veazey</a></td> +<td class="rn">3</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2"><a href="#Dedication">Dedication Page</a></td> +<td class="rn">5</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2"><a href="#Preface">Preface. By Walter Shaw Sparrow</a></td> +<td class="rn">7</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2"><a href="#Contents">Contents</a></td> +<td class="rn">12</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="3"> </td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="3" class="center"><h2>IN THE BORDER COUNTRY<br />BY W. S. CROCKETT</h2></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>I.</td> +<td><a href="#I_INTRODUCTION">Introduction</a></td> +<td class="rn">17</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td></td> +<td><a href="#TheMakingOfTheBorder">The Making of the Border</a></td> +<td class="rn">23</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td></td> +<td><a href="#TheChristianizingOfTheBorder">The Christianizing of the Border</a></td> +<td class="rn">26</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td></td> +<td><a href="#BorderWarfare">Border Warfare</a></td> +<td class="rn">36</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>II.</td> +<td><a href="#II_THE_ENGLISH_BORDER">The English Border: Northumberland</a></td> +<td class="rn">44</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td></td> +<td><a href="#MerrieCarlisle">"Merrie Carlisle"</a></td> +<td class="rn">60</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>III.</td> +<td><a href="#III_THE_TWEED_AND_ITS">The Tweed and Its Associations</a></td> +<td class="rn">75</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>IV.</td> +<td><a href="#IV_PLEASANT_TEVIOTDALE">"Pleasant Teviotdale"</a></td> +<td class="rn">94</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>V.</td> +<td><a href="#V_IN_THE_BALLAD_COUNTRY">In the Ballad Country</a></td> +<td class="rn">105</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>VI.</td> +<td><a href="#VI_THE_LEADER_VALLEY">The Leader Valley</a></td> +<td class="rn">117</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td>VII.</td> +<td><a href="#VII_LIDDESDALE">Liddesdale</a></td> +<td class="rn">124</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[Pg 13]</a></span></p> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="PLATES_IN_COLOUR" id="PLATES_IN_COLOUR"></a>PLATES IN COLOUR<br /> +BY JAMES ORROCK, R.I.</h2> + +<table border="0" cellpadding="0" width="55%" cellspacing="0" summary="PLATES"> +<tr> +<td colspan="2" class="center"><span class="smcap">Frontispiece.</span></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><a href="#Frontispiece">View of Dunstanborough</a></td> +<td class="rn">Title page</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2" class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 2</span></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><a href="#Plate_2">Crag Loch and the Roman Wall</a></td> +<td class="rn">24</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2" class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 3</span></td> +<td class="rn"></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><a href="#Plate_3">Bamborough from Stag Rock</a></td> +<td class="rn">32</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2" class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 4</span></td> +<td class="rn"></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><a href="#Plate_4">Holy Island Castle: Harvest Time</a></td> +<td class="rn">36</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2" class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 5</span></td> +<td class="rn"></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><a href="#Plate_5">View of Norham Castle</a></td> +<td class="rn">40</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2" class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 6</span></td> +<td class="rn"></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><a href="#Plate_6">Twizel Bridge of the XIV. Century</a></td> +<td class="rn">44</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2" class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 7</span></td> +<td class="rn"></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><a href="#Plate_7">Flodden Field and the Cheviot Hills</a></td> +<td class="rn">48</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2" class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 8</span></td> +<td class="rn"></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><a href="#Plate_8">View of Warkworth</a></td> +<td class="rn">52</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2" class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 9</span></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><a href="#Plate_9">View of Alnwick Castle</a></td> +<td class="rn">56</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2" class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 10</span></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><a href="#Plate_10">View of Prudhoe-on-Tyne</a></td> +<td class="rn">60</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2" class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 11</span></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><a href="#Plate_11">View of Carlisle</a></td> +<td class="rn">64</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2" class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 12</span></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><a href="#Plate_12">View of Naworth Castle</a></td> +<td class="rn">68</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2" class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 13</span></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><a href="#Plate_13">View of Lanercost Priory</a></td> +<td class="rn">72</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2" class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 14</span></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><a href="#Plate_14">View of Bewcastle</a></td> +<td class="rn">76</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2" class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 15</span></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><a href="#Plate_15">View of Melrose</a></td> +<td class="rn">80</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2" class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 16</span></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><a href="#Plate_16">Melrose and the Eildons from Bemersyde Hill: +Scott's favourite View</a></td> +<td class="rn">84</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2" class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 17</span></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><a href="#Plate_17">Dryburgh Abbey and Scott's Tomb</a></td> +<td class="rn">88</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2" class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 18</span></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><a href="#Plate_18">The Remnant of Wark Castle</a></td> +<td class="rn">92</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2" class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 19</span></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><a href="#Plate_19">Berwick-on-Tweed</a></td> +<td class="rn">96</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2" class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 20</span></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><a href="#Plate_20">Hollows Tower (sometimes called Gilnockie +Tower)</a></td> +<td class="rn">100</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2" class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 21</span></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><a href="#Plate_21">Goldilands, near Hawick</a></td> +<td class="rn">104</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2" class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 22</span></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><a href="#Plate_22">"He passed where Newark's stately tower +Looks out from Yarrow's birchen bower"</a></td> +<td class="rn">112</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2" class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 23</span></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><a href="#Plate_23">View of New Abbey and Criffel</a></td> +<td class="rn">116</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2" class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 24</span></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><a href="#Plate_24">Criffel and Loch Kindar</a></td> +<td class="rn">120</td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td colspan="2" class="center"><span class="smcap">Plate 25</span></td> +</tr> +<tr> +<td><a href="#Plate_25">Caerlaverock Castle</a></td> +<td class="rn">124</td> +</tr> +</table> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[Pg 17]</a></span></p> + +<hr style="width: 75%;" /> +<h2><a name="I_INTRODUCTION" id="I_INTRODUCTION"></a>I. INTRODUCTION</h2> + +<p>From Berwick to the Solway as the crow flies +is little more than seventy miles. Between +these two points lies the line that divides +England from Scotland. But to follow this line +literally along its every little in and out means +a distance of no fewer than forty good miles more. +Stretching diagonally across the country—north-east +or south-west—we have the river Tweed as +eastmost boundary for a considerable space—close +on twenty miles; then comes the lofty barrier of +the Cheviots extending to thirty odd miles, constituting +the middle portion of the Border line; and +finally, the Kershope Burn, with the Liddel and +Esk Waters, and the small stream of the Sark, make +up the westmost division, another twenty miles, at +least. But to follow the Border on foot, by every +bend of Tweedside, and over every nick and nook +of the Cheviots, and the remaining water-marches, +means, as has been indicated, a walk of not less than +one hundred and ten miles. Almost everywhere in +the land portion of the Border line—the Cheviots +generally—the boundary is such that one may stand +with one foot in England and the other in Scotland, +and the rather curious fact will be noted, says one +who has made this Border pilgrimage <i>par excellence</i>, +that Scotland nowhere receives a single rivulet +from England, whilst she sends to England tiny +head-streams of the Coquet and Tyne only. The +delimitation is thus a quite natural and scientific +one, coinciding pretty closely to the water-parting +of the two countries. Upon either side of this +line of demarcation stretches the Border Country,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[Pg 18]</a></span> +famous in war and verse the whole world over—Northumberland +and Cumberland to the south-east +on English soil, and to the north-west, Berwickshire, +Roxburghshire, with part of Dumfriesshire, the +distinctively Border counties on the Scottish side. +A wider radius, however, has been given to the +Scottish Border from a very early period. Old +Scots Acts of Parliament, applying to the Border +district, embrace the counties of Peebles and +Selkirk within the term, though these nowhere +touch the frontier line, and portions of Lanarkshire +and the Lothians have been also included. But +on the face of it, these latter lie entirely outside +the true Border limit. A line drawn on the map +from Coquetmouth to "Merrie Carlisle," thence to +the town of Dumfries, and again, almost due north, +to Tweedsmuir (the source of the Tweed) in Peeblesshire, +and to Peebles itself, and from Peebles +eastward by the Moorfoots and Lammermoors to +the German Ocean at St. Abbs, will give us for all +practical purposes what may be regarded as the +Border Country in its widest signification, geographical +and historical.</p> + +<p>There is, of course, a narrower sense in which the +phrase, the Border Country, is used—the literary. +That, however, applies almost entirely to the +Scottish side, for neither of the English Border +counties owns a tithe of the associations in literature +and romance that belong to those beyond the +Tweed. The extraordinary glamour which has +been cast over the Tweed and its tributaries by +the writings of Sir Walter Scott, the Ettrick +Shepherd, John Leyden, and others, has given a +prominence to the Scottish side which is nowhere<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[Pg 19]</a></span> +shared by its southern neighbour. But to say so +is no disparagement to the English side. For what +it lacks in literature it makes up in other admirable +characteristics. Both Borders are rich in historical +memories. Their natural features are not dissimilar, +and in commercial prosperity they are much akin. +In union they have long been happily wedded.</p> + +<p>The Border Country is a region of streams and +hills which hardly rise to the dignity of rivers and +mountains. Unlike the Clyde, the Tweed has no +broad estuary laden with the commerce of the +world. And the highest summits, Broad Law +(2754 feet) in Scotland, and the great Cheviot +(2676 feet) in England, have nothing in common +with the rugged Highland peaks except their height. +Both, it has been said, are monuments of denudation +only, "lofty because they have suffered less wear than +their neighbours."</p> + +<p>It is difficult to imagine all this attractive +Border Country as at one period a vast ocean-bed, +over which waves lashed in furious foam, and sea-birds +shrieked and flew amid the war of waters. +Yet geology assures us such was its condition +ages ago. By-and-by, it became a great rolling +plain or table-land, and in age after age—how +many and how long it were vain to speculate—there +was carried on that stupendous process by +which those fair green hills and glens have been so +marvellously scooped out, and moulded and rounded +into the objects of beauty that we see about us now. +In the great glacier movements, in the working of +the ice-sheets, and under the influences of frost, +beating rain, and a constant water-flow operating +through a countless series of years, we have<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[Pg 20]</a></span> +the scientific explanation of their present benign +and comfortable-looking appearance. The Border +hills are of a purely pastoral type, grass-grown +from base to summit, and usually easy of ascent. +Here and there one meets with a distinctly Highland +picture—in the deep dark glens down Moffatdale, +for instance, but in the main they exhibit +"the sonsie, good-humoured, buirdly look," for +which Dr. "Rab" Brown expressed the liveliest +predilection. Once at the curiously plateau-like +summit of Broadlaw (out-topped in Southern +Scotland by the Galloway Merrick only) or Hart +Fell (2651 feet), or the Cheviot, the feeling amounts +to a kind of awe even. Scott speaks of the silence +of noonday on the top of Minchmoor, and the acute +sense of human littleness one always feels amidst +the "mountain infinities." "I assure you," he +says, "I have felt really oppressed with a sort of +fearful loneliness when looking around these naked +towering ridges of desolate barrenness." The picture +seen from such a height is both an inspiring +and a humbling one. Beneath, it is a veritable +earth-ocean that we are gazing upon. On all sides +an innumerable series of what look like huge +elephant-backed ranges are seen to be chasing each +other like waves of the sea, as it were, ridge after +ridge, rising, flowing, falling, and passing into the one +beyond it, as far as the eye can reach. Enclosed +between each we know are the rushing hill-burns +and broader streams by which the Border country is +everywhere so much blessed and beautified. At such +a height we are entirely outside the human +touches—altogether alone with Nature at her +simplest and solemnest. The cry of a startled sheep<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[Pg 21]</a></span> +and the summer hum of insects on the hill-top—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"That undefined and mingled hum,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Voice of the desert, never dumb"—<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>are the only indications of life where all trace and +feeling of man and his work have disappeared. +Occasionally we shall meet by chance with the shepherd, +maybe, who has his dwelling far down among +the "hopes"—the cul-de-sacs of the uplands. +Amongst those hills he lives and moves and has his +being. All sorts of weather-conditions find him at his +work. He never thinks of the loneliness, and the +winter storms have not the terrors for him as for +his predecessors. In some respects his life is an +ideal one, and his class has a goodly record for +intelligence and fine physique. The best specimens, +indeed, of the country's manhood are drawn from +the agricultural labouring classes—the "herds" +and "hinds" who make up the bulk of the population +in the purely rural districts. For agriculture, +it need scarcely be said, is the staple business of +both Borders. The Tweed industry, to be sure, +affords employment to thousands, but on the +Borders, as elsewhere, the land is the crucial problem. +Within recent years many of the rural +parishes have been woefully depleted, and until +the land question is fairly tackled there seems +small hope for a fresh and brighter chapter in the +domestic history of the Border Country.</p> + +<p>A hundred years have transformed the face of +the Border Country in a marked manner. The +development of agriculture, and the growth of the +tree-planting spirit, which began to bestir itself +about the beginning of last century, have given +to the Border its modern picturesqueness and its<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[Pg 22]</a></span> +look of prosperity. Sir Walter Scott himself may +be said to be the father of arboriculture in the +South of Scotland. In the creation of Abbotsford, +forestry was his main out-of-doors hobby, and the +example set by one who had studied the subject +thoroughly, and who discoursed pleasantly upon +it, was quickly followed by all the neighbouring +lairds and many others besides. Not that the +country was altogether treeless before Scott's +day. Here and there "ancestral oaks" clumped +themselves about the great castles and mansions, +with perhaps some further attempt at embellishment. +But that was rare enough. It needed +a man like Scott to popularize the notion, and to +take the lead in an undertaking fraught, as this +age well sees, with results so beneficent. We do +not forget, of course, that in earlier historic times +practically the whole of the Border Country was +covered with wood. Its inhabitants, whose very +names—Gadeni and Ottadini—signified "dwellers +in the wood," were found by the Romans in their +dense forests, and the first settlements were only +possible through clearances of growing timber. +Across the country, from Cadzow, in Renfrewshire, +to the Ettrick, there stretched the vast Wood of +Caledon (whence Caledonia), known at a later +period as the Forest of Ettrick, or simply as the +Forest (<i>e.g.</i>, the "Flowers of the Forest"). There +is no doubt that it was largely a forest in the ordinary +acceptation, and not a mere deer-forest use +of the term. Over and over again we have the +various charters, as to the Abbeys, for instance, +authorising the monks to cut down for building +purposes and fuel oaks "from the forest," both in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[Pg 23]</a></span> +Selkirk and in Melrose, in Kelso and the Ettrick. +The original religious house of Melrose was entirely +of oak. So were the first churches founded by +Kentigern and Cuthbert, and those even of a later +date. The Forest of Ettrick survived to the time +of the Stuarts, who had here their favourite hunting +expeditions, James V. and Queen Mary especially +being frequent visitors to the Borderland. The +Forest of Megget, or Rodono (a sub-division of that +of Ettrick), yielded on one occasion no fewer than five +hundred head of game, bird and beast of the chase, +and at another time eighteen score of red deer. +In the reign of Mary there was issued a proclamation +limiting and prohibiting the slaughter of deer in +the Forest on account of their growing scarcity. +And by the time of James VI. the hunting possibilities +of the Border were at an end.</p> + +<p>More than anything else, the laying down of +the great railway lines and the immense road +improvements of last century have opened up +practically every corner of the Border Country. +There are now no places so utterly inaccessible +as Liddesdale was during Scott's visits. It is +possible to reach the most out-of-the-way parts +with comparative comfort. And with the dawn +of the motor age, still greater hopes and possibilities +appear in store.</p> + +<h5>PLATE 2</h5> +<h3>CRAG LOCH AND THE<br /> +ROMAN WALL</h3> +<h5>FROM A WATER-COLOUR SKETCH</h5> +<h5>PAINTED BY</h5> +<h3>JAMES ORROCK, R.I.</h3> +<p class="center"> +(<i>See pp. <a href="#Page_24">24</a> , <a href="#Page_44">44</a> , <a href="#Page_45">45</a> , <a href="#Page_71">71</a> , <a href="#Page_73">73</a> </i>)<br /> +</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="Plate_2" id="Plate_2"></a> +<img class="bbox" src="images/plate02.jpg" width="600" height="420" alt="CRAG LOCH AND THE ROMAN WALL" title="CRAG LOCH AND THE ROMAN WALL" /> +</div> + +<h3><a name="TheMakingOfTheBorder" id="TheMakingOfTheBorder">THE MAKING OF THE BORDER</a></h3> + +<p>It is from the Roman historian Tacitus that +the light of history falls for the first time on the +Border Country. It is a mere glimpse, however. +But it is enough to show us the calibre of the men<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[Pg 24]</a></span> +who held its forests and fastnesses at that remote +period. They were the Brigantes, a branch probably +of the Celts, who were the first to reach +Britain, coming from the common home-land of the +Ayrian race somewhere in Central Asia. Their +kingdom, Brigantia, embraced all the country +between the Mersey and Humber and the Links of +Forth. They are spoken of as a strong, courageous +and warlike people, able for many years to keep +the Roman cohorts at bay and to check the northward +progress of the invaders. The Roman Conquest +of Britain, as is well known, was begun by +Julius Caesar as far back as <span class="smcap">B.C.</span> 55. It was not, +however, till the time of Julius Agricola (<span class="smcap">A.D.</span> +78-84) that the Romans obtained a firm footing on +the island. Agricola's generalship was more than a +match for the sturdy Brigantes. He carried the +Roman eagles to the Forth and Clyde, fixing his +main line of defence and his northmost frontier on +the isthmus between these two firths. But about +<span class="smcap">A.D.</span> 120, when the Emperor Hadrian visited Britain, +his chief work was the delimitation of the Roman +territory by the great stone wall still bearing his +name, stretching from the Tyne to the Solway, +a distance of 73½ miles. Twenty years later, +however, Lollius Urbicus, the Emperor's lieutenant +in Britain, appears to have revived and restored +Agricola's boundary, so that what we now know +as the Border Country, for more than three hundred +years (<span class="smcap">A.D.</span> 78-410), formed a part of the mightiest +empire of the ancient world. Hadrian's rampart, +the great camps at Cappuck, near Jedburgh, at +Lyne in Peeblesshire, and Newstead at the base of +the Eildons—the undoubted Roman Trimontium<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[Pg 25]</a></span>—with +the roads known as Watling Street and the +Wheel Causeway are the chief memorials of a +singularly historic Occupation. Following the withdrawal +of the Roman legions the district became the +arena of constant warfare between Picts and Scots +and Britons, until the sixth century, when it appears +again in history as a kingdom of the Saxon Heptarchy +under the name of Bernicia, and occupied +by a colony of Angles and Saxons from the Low +Countries of the Continent, the progenitors of the +English-speaking race. Ida the Good governed +Bernicia, having for his capital the proud rock-fortress +of Bibbanburgh (so named from his queen +Bibba), the modern Bamborough. In the following +century Bernicia was combined with Deira, its +southern neighbour (corresponding to Yorkshire) +to form the powerful kingdom of Northumbria, +extending, as Brigantia had done, from the Humber +to the Forth. For the next three or four hundred +years the story of the Border was little more than +a wild record of lawlessness and bloodshed. It +had grown to be a kind of happy hunting-ground +for every hostile tribe within fighting distance, and +for some even who were drawn from long distances, +like the Danes, the latest of the invading hordes. +But there is nothing of importance to narrate +at this period. From a monarchy, Northumbria +fell to the level of an Earldom in 954, and in 1018, +the Scots, consolidated to some extent under Malcolm +II., crushed the Angles of Northumbria in a great +victory at Carham-on-Tweed (near Coldstream), +of which the result was the cession to Scotland of +the district known as Lothian—the land lying +between the Tweed and Forth. Thus at the dawn<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[Pg 26]</a></span> +of the 11th century we have the Tweed constituting +the virtual boundary between the two countries. +Cumberland, to be sure, was for a time Scots territory, +but this the intrepid Rufus wrested back in +1092. So that by the close of that century the Border +line appears to have taken the quite natural +course of delimitation—the Tweed, the Cheviots, +and the Solway, though it was not till as late as +1222 that a commission of both countries was +appointed to adjust the final demarcation.</p> + +<h3><a name="TheChristianizingOfTheBorder" id="TheChristianizingOfTheBorder">THE CHRISTIANIZING OF THE BORDER</a></h3> + +<p>It would be interesting to know precisely +when and how the light of the Christian faith +first penetrated the Border Country, but neither +the time nor the manner can be ascertained with +certainty. Indeed, it is impossible to say who +were the real pioneers of the Gospel within the +realm itself. The probability is that in the first +instance it was the beneficent work of the Romans +in whose legions were to be found many sincere +Christians, many faithful soldiers of the Cross. +From the "saints of Cæsar's household"—not a +mere picturesque dream—mayhap the Gospel found +its way to the coasts of Britain, the greatest boon +that could be conferred on a nation. An unvarying +Peeblesshire tradition, for example, avers that +among the first to witness for Christ and His truth +by the banks of the Tweed and its tributaries were +Roman soldiers from the great military station at +Hall Lyne, and out of whose quiet fellowship-meetings +in the recesses of the Manor, sprang the church +of that valley, one of the oldest in the county,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[Pg 27]</a></span> +and dedicated to Saint Gordian, either the Emperor +of that name, or what is more likely, "Gordian +the well-beloved," Deputy of Gaul, who suffered +martyrdom about the year 362. Be that as it +may, it is at any rate certain that long before +the departure of the Romans from Britain, Christianity +had made considerable headway in the +island. St. Ninian's is the earliest definite name +which has come down to us, about the end of the +4th and beginning of the 5th century. His labours +were confined chiefly to the Galloway side of the +Border, where the remains of his Candida Casa, or +White House, may still be seen at Whithorn on +the shores of Wigtown Bay. It is more than +possible that some of Ninian's missionaries, or a +rumour of his work and teaching at all events, had +passed beyond the Solway to the Clyde and Tweed +watersheds. But, on the other hand, the difficulties +following the departure of the Romans in the constant +incursions from the Continent and the terrible +internecine struggles of the time, would be sufficient +to extinguish whatever light had faintly begun to +shine. And it is not until well on in the 6th century +that the darkness begins to grow less dense. Such +names as Augustine, Paulinus, Columba, Kentigern +or Mungo, Aidan and Cuthbert, come upon the scene, +with each of whom seems to rest, as it were, the hope +of the Church of Christ in Britain. In the year +597 Augustine arrived in Kent with forty monks +in his train. The incident, apocryphal perhaps, which +led to his mission, is at least interesting. The +story has been told again and again, but it will +bear repeating. Ælla, King of Deira, had defeated +his northern neighbour, and with a portion of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[Pg 28]</a></span> +spoil hastened to fill the Roman slave-market. +Gregory the Great, in the days that preceded his pontificate, +passed one day through the market-place when +it was crowded with people, all attracted by the +arrival of fresh cargoes of merchandise; and he saw +three boys set for sale. They were white-complexioned, +fair and light, and with noble heads of hair. Filled +with compassion, he enquired of the dealer from +what part of the world they had come, and was told +"from Britain, where all the inhabitants have the +same fair complexion." He next asked whether the +people of this strange land were Christians or pagans, +and hearing that they were pagans he heaved a +deep sigh, and remarked it was sad to think that +beings so bright and fair should be in the power +of the Prince of Darkness. He next enquired the +name of their nation. "Angles," was the reply. +"'Tis well," he answered, playing on the word, +"rightly are they called <i>Angles</i>, for their faces are +the faces of angels, and they ought to be fellow-heirs +with the angels of heaven." "And what is the +name," he proceeded, "of the province from which +they have been brought?" "From Deira," was +the answer. Catching its name, he rejoined, +"Rightly are they named <i>Deirans</i>. Plucked from +<i>ire</i>, and called to the mercy of Christ." "And +who," he asked once more, "is the King of this +province?" "Ælla," was the reply. The word +recalled the Hebrew expression of praise, and he +answered, "Allelujah! the praise of God shall be +chanted in that clime!" And as Green so beautifully +puts it in his "Making of England," "he +passed on, musing how the angel faces should be +brought to sing it." And brought to sing it they<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[Pg 29]</a></span> +were when the evangelist Paulinus found his way +in the best sense, to the heart of heathen Northumbria. +Paulinus, whom men long remembered,</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Of shoulders curved, and stature tall,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Black hair, and vivid eye, and meagre cheek."<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>had come from Rome with Bishop Justus in 601, +and laboured with Augustine in the evangelization +of Kent. When Ethelburga, daughter of Ethelbert +of Kent, Augustine's convert, became wedded +to Edwin, the still idolatrous King of Northumbria, +Paulinus accompanied her as chaplain, and at the +same time as missionary among the rude Northumbrians. +The field of his labours was a wide one. +For a long time he made no progress until Edwin +himself, moved by his escape from assassination +at the hands of the King of Wessex, and by his +victory over Wessex, and under the gentle constraint +of Paulinus, resolved that both he and his nobles +should be baptized, and this resolution was carried +into effect at York, in a hastily-built chapel (the +precursor of the Minster), on Easter Eve, 627.</p> + +<p>The conversion of Edwin was followed by a +great social revolution. Having convoked the +National Assembly, he unfolded the reasons for his +change of faith. Everywhere he was applauded. +Crowds of the nobility, chiefs of petty states, and +the great mass of the people followed the example +of their King. The worship of the ancient gods was +solemnly renounced, and even Coifi, the high priest, +was the first to give the signal for destruction by +hurling his lance at an idol in the pagan temple. +Paulinus was now one of the most popular figures +in Northumbria. Wherever he preached, crowds +gathered to hear him and to be received, like their<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[Pg 30]</a></span> +Overlord, into the Christian communion. Many +spots in Northumberland are identified with the +name of this early and ardent Apostle of the North. +Pallinsburn, overlooking Flodden Field, is, of course, +Paulinus's Burn, where large numbers were baptized. +In one of his missionary journeys we are +told (Bede) how he was occupied for six and thirty +consecutive days from early morn until nightfall, in +teaching the people and in "washing them with +the water of absolution" in the river Glen, which +flowed by the royal "vill" of Yeavering (anciently +Ad-gebrin) in Glendale. At the Lady's Well near +Holystone, in the vale of the Coquet, about three +thousand converts were welcomed into the Church +of Christ. A graceful Runic cross erected on the +spot bears the following inscription:—</p> + +<p class="center"> ++<span class="smcap">In this Place<br /> +Pavlinvs the Bishop<br /> +Baptized<br /> +Three Thousand Northvmbrians.<br /> +Easter, DCXXVII.</span>+<br /> +</p> + +<p>But after six years of incessant labours, the death +of Edwin in battle with Penda, King of the Mercians, +and Cadwallon of North Wales, put a sudden stop +to his work. He did not wait for the honour of +martyrdom, but went back with the widowed queen +to Kent, where he became Bishop of Rochester, and +she the Abbess of Lyminge. Paulinus died in 644, +and was buried in the chapter-house at Rochester.</p> + +<h5>PLATE 3</h5> +<h3>BAMBOROUGH FROM<br /> +STAG ROCK</h3> +<h5>FROM A WATER-COLOUR SKETCH</h5> +<h5>PAINTED BY</h5> +<h3>JAMES ORROCK, R.I.</h3> +<p class="center"> +(<i>See pp. <a href="#Page_25">25</a> , <a href="#Page_58">58</a> , <a href="#Page_59">59</a> </i>)<br /> +</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="Plate_3" id="Plate_3"></a> +<img class="bbox" src="images/plate03.jpg" width="600" height="420" alt="CRAG LOCH AND THE ROMAN WALL" title="CRAG LOCH AND THE ROMAN WALL" /> +</div> + +<p>But it is ever the darkest hour that precedes +the dawn. It was impossible that England should +lose her faith and fall back under the rule of a mere +heathen conqueror. After the "thoughtful Edwin,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</a></span> +mightiest of all the kings of the isle of Britain," as +he has been called (he was, by the way, the founder of +Edinburgh), there arose another champion of +the new light in the person of Oswald, Edwin's +nephew. Oswald's history connects him with Columba +the Irishman, and "Apostle of Scotland," +to whose splendid work the nation owed its first +real religious advance. About 563, when in his +forty-second year, and accompanied by twelve +companions, Columba found a resting-place on the +little island of Hy or Iona, off the west coast of +Scotland, whence he set himself to the great +work of his life—the conversion of the Pictish tribes +beyond the Grampians. At Iona Oswald had +sheltered during the home troubles, and many +valuable lessons he must have learned for the +strenuous life that lay in front of him. Called +to lead his countrymen against their oppressors, +Oswald literally fought his way to the throne. On +a rising ground, a few miles from Hexham, near +the Roman Wall, he gathered in 634 a small force, +which pledged itself to become Christian if it +conquered in the engagement. Causing a cross of +wood to be hastily made, and digging a hole for it +in the earth, he supported it with his own hands +while his men hedged up the soil around it. Then, +like Bruce at Bannockburn years afterwards, he +bade his soldiers kneel with him and entreat the +true and living God to defend their cause, which he +knew to be just, from the fierce and boastful foe. +This done they joined battle, and attacked Cadwallon's +far superior forces. The charge was +irresistible. The Welsh army fled down the slope +towards the Deniseburn,—a brook near Dilston<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[Pg 32]</a></span> +which has been identified with the Rowley Burn,—and +Cadwallon himself, the hero of fourteen battles +and sixty skirmishes, was caught and slain. This +was the battle of Hefenfelt, or Heaven's Field, as +after-times called it. Not only was the last hero +of the old British races utterly routed, but Oswald, +King of once more reunited Bernicia and Deira, +proved himself to the Christian cause all that +Edwin had been, and more, a prince in the prime +of life, and fitted by his many good qualities to +attract a general enthusiasm of admiration, reverence, +and love. Resolved to restore the national +Christianity, and to realize the ambitions of his +exile life, he turned naturally to Iona and to the +teachers of his youth for missionaries who would +accomplish the holy task. At his request, Aidan, +one of the fittest of the Columban band, was sent to +carry on the work of evangelization in Northumbria, +which happy event may be reckoned as the first +permanent planting of the Gospel in the Eastern +Border. The light which he kindled was never +afterwards quenched. And as Columba had chosen +Iona, so for Aidan there was one spot to which his +heart went out above all others. This was the +island-peninsula of Lindisfarne, off the Northumbrian +coast, so called from the little river Lindis, +which here enters the sea, and the Celtic <i>fahren</i>, +"a recess." Bede has a fine passage which is worth +quoting:—"On the arrival of the Bishop (Aidan) +King Oswald appointed him his episcopal see in +the isle of Lindisfarne, as he desired. Which +place as the tide flows and ebbs twice a day, is +enclosed by the waves of the sea like an island; +and again, twice in the day, when the shore is left<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_33" id="Page_33">[Pg 33]</a></span> +dry, becomes contiguous to the land. The King +also humbly and willingly in all cases giving ear +to his admonitions, industriously applied himself +to build and extend the church of Christ in his +kingdom; wherein, when the Bishop, who was not +skilful in the English tongue, preached the gospel, +it was most delightful to see the King himself +interpreting the Word of God to his commanders +and ministers, for he had perfectly learned the +language of the Scots during his long banishment. +From that time many of the Scots came daily into +Britain, and with great devotion preached the +word to those provinces of the English over which +King Oswald reigned, and those among them that +had received priest's orders, administered to them +the grace of baptism. Churches were built in +several places; the people joyfully flocked together +to hear the Word; money and lands were given +of the King's bounty to build monasteries; the +English, great and small, were, by their Scottish +masters, instructed in the rules and observance +of regular discipline; for most of them that came +to preach were monks." (Eccl. Hist. Bk. iii., c. 2). +Than Lindisfarne, or Holy Island, as it came to +be called, there is no more sacred spot in Northumbria—in +England even. Its history is coeval +with that of the nation, and it was from that hallowed +centre of Christian activity that the gospelizing of +both sides of the Border was planned and prayed over +many an anxious hour and day. Aidan's missionaries +went forth planting churches in various places. +One of the best known of these settlements was +Old Melrose, the original shrine by the beautiful +bend of the Tweed, a mile or two down the river<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[Pg 34]</a></span> +from the second and more celebrated Melrose. +Here Eata, "a man much revered and meek;" +and Boisil, who gave his name to the neighbouring +St. Boswells; and Cuthbert, the most illustrious +of them all, served God with gladness. Of the +latter, certainly the most conspicuous Borderer +of his day, something more must be said. Three +kingdoms claim his birthplace. The Irish Life of +the Saint alleges him to be sprung of her own blood +royal; he is affirmed also to have come of noble +Northumbrian descent; whilst the Scottish tradition +makes him the child of humble parents, born +and reared in Lauderdale, one of the sweetest +valleys of the Border. It is a fact, at any rate, +that when the light of record first falls upon him +the youthful Cuthbert is seen as a shepherd lad by +the Leader; he is religiously inclined, and whilst his +comrades sleep, he spends whole nights in prayer and +meditation. One day he hears voices from out the +unseen calling to him. Another night it is a vision +of angels that he fancies he beholds bearing the +soul of the sainted Aidan to the skies. Such was +Cuthbert, a kind of mystic, a dreamer of strange +dreams, destined apostle and Bishop, and next to +Augustine himself the most illustrious figure in the +annals of English monasticism. The church of +Channelkirk (anciently Childeschirche) dedicated to +the Saint, probably indicates his birth-spot. The +Leader valley is full of legends of his boyhood, the +whole west of Berwickshire, indeed, being haunted +ground for Cuthbert's sake. Other great names +in the history of early Border Christianity are those +of Benedict Biscop, the founder of the monasteries +of Jarrow and Monk Wearmouth; Wilfrid, the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[Pg 35]</a></span> +founder of Hexham; and the Venerable Bede—the +"father of English learning"—whose "Church +History of the English People" is the greatest of +the forty-five works that bear his name.</p> + +<p>By far the most flourishing epoch in the religious +development of the Border was the founding of +the great Abbeys under David I.—"St. David"—as +he is often called, though he was never canonized. +Whilst still a Prince, he founded a monastery at +Selkirk, and after his accession to the throne, there +arose the four stately fanes of Kelso (1128), Melrose +(1146), Jedburgh (1147), and Dryburgh (1150)—those +rich and peaceful homes of art and intellectual +culture whose ruins now strike us with marvel and +regret. There is probably no other country district +equally small in area that can boast a group of ruins +at once so grand and interesting as those that lie +within a few miles of each other along the banks +of the Tweed and Jed. Founded almost contemporaneously, +they were destroyed about the +same time, by the same ruthless hands. The story +of each is the story of all—burned and rebuilt, +then spoiled and restored again, time after time, +until finally at the dismal Hertford Invasion, in +1545, they all received their death-stroke. Other +religious centres on the Scottish side were Coldingham +in Berwickshire, founded in 1098 by King +Edgar, son of Canmore and St. Margaret; Dundrennan, +in Kirkcudbrightshire, founded in 1142 by +Fergus, Lord of Galloway; and Sweetheart or +New Abbey, founded in 1275 by Devorgoil, great-great-granddaughter +of David the First. On the +English side, the Church had a less vigorous growth, +having no such munificent patron as King David,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[Pg 36]</a></span> +but there, too, it could boast of Carlisle Cathedral, +the Abbey of Alnwick, the Priories of Lanercost, and +Hexham, and the still more renowned and classic +Lindisfarne. The history of the latter began, as +we saw, with the year 635, when Saint Aidan +accepted the invitation of King Oswald to teach +the new faith to the Northumbrians. Aidan's +church, built of wood, and thatched with the coarse +bents of the links, could not long withstand the +storms or the brands of the wild sea-rovers. And +of the stone sanctuary reared under the rule of +succeeding bishops no portion of the present ruin +can be considered as forming a part. Sir Walter +Scott has thrown the spell of his genius around the +picturesque ruins, but the tragical story of Constance +of Beverley has no foundation in fact.</p> + +<h5>PLATE 4</h5> +<h3>HOLY ISLAND CASTLE:<br /> +HARVEST-TIME</h3> +<h5>FROM A WATER-COLOUR SKETCH</h5> +<h5>PAINTED BY</h5> +<h3>JAMES ORROCK, R.I.</h3> +<p class="center"> +(<i>See pp. <a href="#Page_32">32</a> , <a href="#Page_33">33</a> , <a href="#Page_36">36</a> </i>)<br /> +</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="Plate_4" id="Plate_4"></a> +<img class="bbox" src="images/plate04.jpg" width="600" height="389" alt="HOLY ISLAND CASTLE: HARVEST-TIME" +title="HOLY ISLAND CASTLE: HARVEST-TIME" /> +</div> + +<h3><a name="BorderWarfare" id="BorderWarfare">BORDER WARFARE</a></h3> + +<p>Of Border warfare it were impossible to treat +within the limits of a library. In no part +of the kingdom was the fighting and raiding +spirit more rampant. The Border clans were +constantly at war with one another, the slightest +excuse provoking an attack, and not unfrequently +was there no <i>raison d'être</i> whatever for the accompanying +ruin and desolation. It ran apparently +in the blood of those old Borderers to live on unfriendly +terms with their neighbours, and to seize +every possible opportunity against them. The +record of the raids does not lean more to one side +than another for aggressiveness, though generally +the Scot has been credited for this quality. But +as a matter of fact both sides were equally at fault<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[Pg 37]</a></span> +and equally determined. And the onslaughts were +often of the most savage and persistent kind, and +were almost entirely unchecked by the legal restraints +which were set in force. The division of +the district into East, West and Middle Marches, +with a sort of vice-regal Warden appointed over +each, was not always conducive to peace and good +feeling. At certain times, a day of truce was held +when the Wardens of both sides met and settled +any questions that might be in dispute between +their followers, but occasionally the decision was +anything but harmonious—as in the case of the +Reidswire, for instance. In the "Debateable or +Threep Lands," which lay partly in England and +partly in Scotland, between the Esk and the Sark, +no end of worry and difficulty was experienced. +"Its chief families were the Armstrongs and Grahams, +both clans being noted as desperate thieves +and freebooters. They had frequently to be dealt +with by force of arms till in the 17th century, the +Grahams were transported to Ireland, and forbidden +to return upon pain of death. Other districts of +the Borders from time to time called forth hostile +visitations from the Scottish kings or their commissioners, +when great numbers of the robbers +were frequently seized and hanged. So late as +1606, the Earl of Dunbar executed as many as 140 +of them. The Union of the Crowns removed some +obvious grounds of contention between the English +and Scottish people, and after the middle of the +17th century the Borders gradually subsided into +a more peaceful condition."</p> + +<p>It was doubtless due to the exigencies occasioned +by those frequently recurring wars and raids from<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[Pg 38]</a></span> +the 13th to the 16th century that the whole country +on both sides of the frontier became so thickly +studded with castles and peel-towers, the numerous +ruins of which still form a distinctive feature in +Border scenery, although from times much earlier +the castles and strongholds were characteristic +elements in the old Scottish landscape. Alexander +Hume, of Polwarth, the poet-preacher of Logie, +near Stirling, in his fine description of a "Summer's +Day," thus refers to them:—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"The rayons of the sunne we see<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Diminish in their strength;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">The shade of everie tower and tree,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Extended is in length.<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Great is the calm for everie quhair<br /></span> +<span class="i0">The wind is settlin' downe;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">The reik thrawes right up in the air,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">From everie tower and towne."<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>Generally these towers were planted on heights +overlooking the river-valleys, and, as a rule, within +sight of one another, in order that the signals of +invasion or alarm—flashed by means of the bale +fire—might be the more rapidly spread from point +to point. Very few of them are now entire—the +best-preserved on the Scottish side being, perhaps, +Barns, at the entrance to the Manor valley; Bemersyde, +still inhabited; and Oakwood on the Ettrick, +incorporated in the present farm buildings; and +on the English side, Corbridge and Doddington +and Whittingham. From a return made in 1460 +we find that Northumberland alone possessed +37 castles and 78 towers, and the Scottish side was +equally well strengthened and defended. Amongst +the larger and more important fortresses on the +English side were the Castles of Alnwick, Bothal,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_39" id="Page_39">[Pg 39]</a></span> +Carlisle, Cockermouth, Coupland, Dilston, Elsdon, +Etal, Ford, Naworth, Norham, Prudhoe, Wark, +Warkworth; and on the Scottish side, Berwick, +Branxholme, Caerlaverock (the true Ellangowan +of "Guy Mannering"), Cessford, Ferniherst, +Hermitage, Hume, Jedburgh, Neidpath, Peebles, +Roxburgh, Threave, Traquair, besides, as has been +said, hundreds of peel and bastle-houses scattered +all over the country.</p> + +<p>It would be a quite impossible task to chronicle +the incessant clan-raids of the Border, and to +narrate all the invasions that took place on either +side would be to repeat in great measure the general +history of England and Scotland. But at least +two authentic reports, covering little more than +a year, may be quoted as showing the extraordinary +havoc and destruction caused by the latter. "In +1544 Sir Ralph Evers and Sir Brian Latoun, with +an English army, invaded the Scottish Border, and +between July and November they destroyed 192 +towns, towers, barmkyns, parish churches, etc.; +slew 403 Scots and took 816 prisoners; carried +off 10,386 head of cattle, 12,492 sheep, 1296 horses, +200 goats, and 850 bolls of corn, besides an untold +quantity of inside gear and plenishing. In one +village alone—that of Lessudden (now St. Boswells)—Sir +Ralph Evers writes that he burned 16 strong +bastle-houses. Again in September of the following +year, the Earl of Hertford a second time invaded +the country, and between the 8th and the 23rd of +that month, he razed and cast down the abbeys of +Jedburgh, Kelso, Dryburgh, and Melrose, and +burned the town of Kelso. At the same time he +destroyed about 30 towns, towers and villages on<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[Pg 40]</a></span> +the Tweed, 36 on the Teviot, 12 on Rulewater, 13 +on the Jed, 45 on the Kale, 19 on the Bowmont, 109 +in the parishes of Eccles and Duns in Berwickshire, +with 20 other towns and villages in the same +county. The places destroyed are all named in +the report to the English king, along with a classified +list of that terrible sixteen days' destruction, embracing +7 monasteries and friars' houses, 16 castles, +towers and peels, 5 market-towns, the immense +number of 243 villages, with 13 mills, and 3 hospitals."</p> + +<p>It cannot be forgotten that upon Border soil +were fought at least six of the great historical battles +of the nation, <i>viz.</i>, Halidon Hill (1333); Otterburn +(1388); Homildon Hill (1402); Flodden (1513); +Solway Moss (1542); and Ancrum Moor (1544). +Of mere internal contests there are the fight at +Arkinholm (Langholm, 1455), between Scotsmen, +where James II. broke the power of the Douglases; +the battle of Hedgeley Moor (1464), and of Hexham +(1464) between the English adherents of Lancaster +and York, when the Lancastrians were defeated; +the affair of Melrose (Skirmish Hill, 1526) between +Borderers under the Earl of Angus and Buccleuch; +and Philiphaugh (1645) when Leslie drove Montrose +from the field. Of what were purely faction fights +and deeds of daring such as the Raid of the Reidswire +(1575), and the rescue of Kinmont Willie +(1596), the ancient ballads will keep their memory +green for many a year to come.</p> + +<h5>PLATE 5</h5> +<h3>VIEW OF NORHAM<br /> +CASTLE</h3> +<h5>FROM A WATER-COLOUR SKETCH</h5> +<h5>PAINTED BY</h5> +<h3>JAMES ORROCK, R.I.</h3> +<p class="center"> +(<i>See pp. <a href="#Page_39">39</a> , <a href="#Page_60">60</a> , <a href="#Page_93">93</a> </i>)<br /> +</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="Plate_5" id="Plate_5"></a> +<img class="bbox" src="images/plate05.jpg" width="600" height="421" alt="VIEW OF NORHAM CASTLE" title="VIEW OF NORHAM CASTLE" /> +</div> + +<p>Two great incidents of Border warfare stand +out before all others—Otterburn and Flodden. +Old Froissart has told the story of Otterburn. +The Scottish barons, tired of the fickleness and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[Pg 41]</a></span> +inactivity of their king, determined to invade +England, met at Aberdeen, and arranged the preliminaries +for a great gathering at Southdean, +beyond Jedburgh. On the day appointed the best +blood in Scotland was assembled. "There had +not been for sixty years so numerous an assembly—they +amounted to twelve hundred spears and forty +thousand other men and archers." The Earl of +Douglas, the Earl of March and Dunbar, and the +Earl of Moray, with three hundred picked lancers +and two thousand infantry, burst into Northumberland, +rode south as far as Durham, and laid waste +the country. In one of their encounters before +Newcastle-on-Tyne the Earl of Douglas had a hand-to-hand +combat with Sir Henry Percy—- Hotspur,—who +was overthrown, Douglas seizing his pennon—the +silken streamer bearing his insignia, which +was fastened near the head of his lance. In triumph +he exclaimed: "I will carry this token of your +prowess with me into Scotland, and place it on the +tower of my castle at Dalkeith, that it may be seen +from afar." "By God, Earl of Douglas," replied +Hotspur, "you shall not even bear it out of Northumberland; +be assured you shall never have this +pennon to boast of." "You must come then," +answered Douglas, "this night and seek for it. I +will fix your pennon before my tent, and shall see +if you will venture to take it away." On the +following evening the Scottish army "lighted high +on Otterburn," in Redesdale, and there Sir Henry +and Ralph Percy, with six hundred spears of knights +and squires and upwards of eight thousand infantry, +fell upon the Scots, who were but three hundred +lances, and two thousand others. The fight that<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[Pg 42]</a></span> +followed was one of the most spirited in history, +and ended in the death of Douglas, the capture of +Hotspur, the serious wounding of his brother, and +the killing or capture of one thousand and forty +Englishmen on the field, the capture of eight +hundred and forty others in the pursuit, and the +wounding of a thousand more. The Scots lost only +one hundred slain and two hundred captured. +"It was," says Froissart, "the hardest and most +obstinate battle ever fought." The tragic incidents +of this encounter have been kept alive not historically +but poetically. It is the immortality of song which +preserves the memory of Otterburn. No contest +was more emphatically the "ballad-singer's joy." +Two ballads, the one Scots, the other English, give +their respective versions of the event with those +natural discrepancies between the two, which +may easily be accounted for on patriotic grounds. +That given in Scott's "Minstrelsy" is unquestionably +the finer, and contains the lines so often quoted +by Scott himself, and at no occasion more pathetically +than during his visit—pretty near the end—to +the old Douglas shrines in Lanarkshire, the +locality of "Castle Dangerous":</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"My wound is deep. I fain would sleep;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Take thou the vanguard of the three,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And hide me by the braken bush<br /></span> +<span class="i0">That grows on yonder lilye lea.<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"O bury me by the braken bush,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Beneath the blooming brier;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Let never living mortal ken<br /></span> +<span class="i0">That ere a kindly Scot lies here."<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>The story of Flodden is the darkest, perhaps, on +the page of Scottish history, and like Otterburn, has +been written in strains grand and majestic, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[Pg 43]</a></span> +certainly the most heart-moving in the whole +realm of northern minstrelsy. There Scotland lost +her King, the Archbishop of St. Andrew's, James's +natural son, two abbots, twelve earls, seventeen +lords, four hundred knights, and fifteen thousand +others, all sacrificed to the fighting pride of James IV. +of Scotland. Pierced by several strong arrows, the +left hand hacked clean from the arm, the neck laid +open in the middle, James's body was carried +mournfully to Berwick. He had died a hero's +death, albeit a foolish one. His last words have +lived in the lines of the rhymer:</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Fight on, my men,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Yet Fortune she may turn the scale;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And for my wounds be not dismayed,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Nor ever let your courage fail.<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">Thus dying did he brave appear<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Till shades of death did close his eyes;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Till then he did his soldiers cheer,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And raise their courage to the skies."<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>The era of Blood and Iron on the Borders has passed +long since. Peace and prosperity prevail on both +sides of the Tweed. Old animosities are seldom +spoken of, and hardly ever remembered. A cordial +amity and good-will and co-operation evidence the +strength of the cementing element which no loyal +heart, either north or south, can ever desire to see +broken.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[Pg 44]</a></span></p> + +<h5>PLATE 6</h5> +<h3>TWIZEL BRIDGE OF THE<br /> +XIV. CENTURY</h3> +<h5>FROM A WATER-COLOUR SKETCH</h5> +<h5>PAINTED BY</h5> +<h3>JAMES ORROCK, R.I.</h3> +<p class="center"> +(<i>Famous in connection with Flodden Field</i>) +</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="Plate_6" id="Plate_6"></a> +<img class="bbox" src="images/plate06.jpg" width="600" height="422" alt="TWIZEL BRIDGE OF THE XIV. CENTURY" +title="TWIZEL BRIDGE OF THE XIV. CENTURY" /> +</div> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="II_THE_ENGLISH_BORDER" id="II_THE_ENGLISH_BORDER"></a>II. THE ENGLISH BORDER</h2> + +<h3>NORTHUMBERLAND</h3> + +<p>A line drawn from Berwick to Carlisle, and +across England to the Coquet, thence north +again, coast-wise, to the old Tweedside +borough will give us, for all practical purposes, the +English Border Country. Only a part of the Roman +Wall, as far as Crag Loch and Borcovicus (Housesteads), +will come within the present purview, which +excludes Newcastle itself and the "coaly Tyne." +We are to deal with rural Northumberland rather, +and with a little corner of Cumberland, the immediate +and true Border. Even at this time of day +much of the English Border is still a kind of <i>terra +incognita</i> to the tourist and holiday-maker. For +travelling facilities have not been of the best +hitherto. But it is a new order of things now, and +even the most outlying spots can be reached with +a wonderful degree of comfort impossible not so +very long ago. Bewcastle, for instance, and the +once wild and trackless "Debateable Land" +between Canonbie and the Solway, have come +within comparatively easy distance of railroad and +coaching centres. The crossing of the Solway +Moss by the Caledonian Route, and the opening +out of the line from Alnwick to Wooler and Cornhill, +together with the numerous driving tours that +are in daily operation during the summer at least, +have become the <i>open sesame</i> to a district practically +shut up even less than a half century since. It is +now possible to breakfast in Carlisle, or Newcastle, +or much further south for that matter (or north),<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_45" id="Page_45">[Pg 45]</a></span> +and within an hour or two to be revelling in the +most delightful rusticities at the foot of the Cheviots, +or in the very heart of them. The remotest localities +are rendered accessible even for a single day's +outing, and a holiday on the English Border is not +likely to be a disappointing one. There is something +to suit every taste. If one is archaeologically +inclined, for instance, Northumberland has one of +the finest collections of military antiquities in the +kingdom, from the rude circular camps and entrenchments +of the primitive inhabitants to the +great castles and peel-towers of mediæval times. +The Romans have left a mighty monument of their +power—none more significant—in the huge barrier +thrown across the lower half of the county, and in +the stations and roads connected with it. In +some respects the Roman Wall may be accounted +Northumberland's principal attraction, and a pilgrimage +between Tyne and Solway must always +repay itself. If one is artistically inclined, there +are beauty-spots for all canvases—as befits +the birthplace of such masters as Bewick and +Foster. And as an angler's paradise the Cheviot +uplands have long been popular. The historical +memories of the English Border are outstanding. +For centuries this little fringe of country was a +continuous warring-ground for the two nations that +are now happily one. Upon its soil were fought +some of the bloodiest, and it must be added, some of +the most fool-hardy and unjustifiable fights on +record. In its religious story it has much to boast +of. By its missionaries and by its sword it won +England from heathendom to the Christian Church. +The development of the monastic system in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[Pg 46]</a></span> +Northumbria did more than anything else to civilise +and colonise the entire realm, Scotland included. +"Its monasteries," as Green says, "were the seat of +whatever intellectual life the country possessed, +and above all, it had been the first to gather together +into a loose political unity the various tribes of the +English people, and by standing at their head for +nearly a century to accustom them to a national +life out of which England as we have it now was +to spring."</p> + +<p>The physical conditions, generally speaking, +are similar on both sides of the Border. Wide +arable expanses, well-wooded and fertile, cover the +chief valleys and much of the Northumbrian +coast-line. But in the main, the landscape is purely +pastoral for miles, showing few signs of human life, +and the nearest habitation often at a considerable +distance. The Northumbrian uplands are confined +chiefly to the Cheviots, the Pyrenees on a small +scale; two-thirds of their whole three hundred +square miles are in the county, constituting +perhaps the loveliest cluster of pastoral hills in the +island. Of this group, Cheviot—to be more distinctive, +<i>the</i> Cheviot—(2676 feet) sits in the centre +almost, dignified and massive, the "recumbent guardian +of the great lone moorland." Others, taking +them according to height, are Cairn Hill (2545), +Hedgehope (2348), Comb Fell (2132), Cushat Law +(2020), Bloody Bush Edge (2001), Windy Gyle +(1963), Dunmore (1860), Carter Fell (1600), and +Yeavering Bell (1182)—a graceful cone overlooking +the pretty hamlet of Kirknewton. A climb to the +broad back of the Cheviot, or the rounded top of +Yeavering, should be made by every tourist who<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[Pg 47]</a></span> +rambles along the Border. Both are reachable +from the Scottish and English sides, as by Bowmont +and Colledge Waters, or by that loveliest of all the +upland dales, Langleeford. Despite the somewhat +quagmire character of its flat summit, the view +from the Cheviot, as one might expect, is a truly +inspiring one, comprising the whole coast-line +between Berwick and Tynemouth, and the vast +inland expanse from Midlothian to the Solway—the +Scottish Border <i>in toto</i>. The Cheviots are hills +rather than the "mountains blue" of poetic +licence. Yet all are imposing to a degree, and +exhibit an excellent contour against the sky-line. +They have none of the wildness and savagery of the +Highland ranges, and even the steepest are grass-grown +from skirt to summit, being easy of ascent, +and commanding the most varied and brilliant +prospects.</p> + +<p>Robert Crawford sings of them as "Cheviot +braes so soft and gay," and Gilpin likens the hirsels +browsing on the most acclivitous to pictures hung +on immense green walls. From time immemorial +those charming uplands have been grazed by the +quiet, hardy, fine-wooled, white-faced breed of +sheep which bear their name; and in the days of +the raids (for this is the true "raider-land" of +history) they were resonant, more than any other +part of Scotland, with the clang of freebootery +and the yell of strife. Mrs. Sigourney's apostrophe +to the present day flocks may be quoted:</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">Graze on, graze on, there comes no sound<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Of Border warfare here,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">No slogan cry of gathering clan,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">No battle-axe, or spear.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[Pg 48]</a></span><br /></span> +<span class="i0">No belted knight in armour bright,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">With glance of kindled ire,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Doth change the sports of Chevy-Chase<br /></span> +<span class="i0">To conflict stern and dire.<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">Ye wist not that ye press the spot,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Where Percy held his way<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Across the marches, in his pride,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">The "chiefest harts to slay;"<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And where the stout Earl Douglas rode<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Upon his milk-white steed,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">With "fifteen hundred Scottish spears,"<br /></span> +<span class="i0">To stay the invaders' deed.<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">Ye wist not, that ye press the spot<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Where, with his eagle eye,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">King James, and all his gallant train,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">To Flodden-Field swept by.<br /></span> +<span class="i0">The Queen was weeping in her bower,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Amid her maids that day,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And on her cradled nursling's face<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Those tears like pearl-drops lay:<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">Graze on, graze on, there's many a rill<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Bright sparkling through the glade,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Where you may freely slake your thirst,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">With none to make afraid.<br /></span> +<span class="i0">There's many a wandering stream that flows<br /></span> +<span class="i0">From Cheviot's terraced side,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Yet not one drop of warrior's gore<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Distains its crystal tide.<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<h5>PLATE 7</h5> +<h3>FLODDEN FIELD AND<br /> +THE CHEVIOT HILLS</h3> +<h5>FROM A WATER-COLOUR SKETCH</h5> +<h5>PAINTED BY</h5> +<h3>JAMES ORROCK, R.I.</h3> +<p class="center"> +(<i>See pp. <a href="#Page_40">40</a> , <a href="#Page_48">48</a> , <a href="#Page_99">99</a> , <a href="#Page_103">103</a> , <a href="#Page_121">121</a> </i>)<br /> +</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="Plate_7" id="Plate_7"></a> +<img class="bbox" src="images/plate07.jpg" width="600" height="431" alt="FLODDEN FIELD AND +THE CHEVIOT HILLS" title="FLODDEN FIELD AND +THE CHEVIOT HILLS" /> +</div> + +<p>Of the river valleys running south of the Border +line, the chief are the Breamish, or the Till, as it +is termed from Bewick Brig—the "sullen Till" +of "Marmion"; the Aln, from Alnham Kirk to +the sand-banks of Alnmouth, a glen emphatically +rich in legendary lore; the Coquet, the most +picturesque and most popular trouting-stream in +the North of England; and Redesdale, redolent +of "Chevy Chase," rising out of Carter Fell, and +joining the North Tyne at Redesmouth, a little +below the pleasant market-town of Bellingham.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[Pg 49]</a></span> +The chief towns are Berwick and Alnwick, Hexham +being outside our present delimitation. Many +of the smaller places, and the villages, are models +of their kind. Wooler, at the base of the Cheviots, +is a choice mountaineering and angling centre, from +which, by way of Langleeford, is the favourite route +to Cheviot top. It was at the Whitsun Tryst or +Wooler sheep fair, that Scott's grandfather spent +his old shepherd's thirty pounds in buying a horse +instead of sheep, but with such happy results in +the sequel. And hither came Scott himself in +August, 1791, to imbue his mind with the legends, +the history, and scenery of the neighbourhood. +"Behold a letter from the mountains," he writes +to his friend William Clerk, "for I am very snugly +settled here, in a farmer's house (at Langleeford), +about six miles from Wooler, in the very centre +of the Cheviot hills, in one of the wildest and most +romantic situations, which your imagination, fertile +upon the subject of cottages, ever suggested. 'And +what the deuce are you about there?' methinks +I hear you say. Why, sir, of all things in the world, +drinking goat's whey; not that I stand in the least +need of it, but my uncle having a slight cold, and +being a little tired of home, asked me last Sunday +evening if I would like to go with him to Wooler; +and I, answering in the affirmative, next morning's +sun beheld us on our journey through a pass +in the Cheviots, upon the backs of two special nags, +and man Thomas behind with a portmanteau, and +two fishing-rods fastened across his back, much +in the style of St. Andrew's cross. Upon reaching +Wooler we found the accommodation so bad that +we were forced to use some interest to get lodgings<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[Pg 50]</a></span> +here, where we are most delightfully appointed, +indeed. To add to my satisfaction we are +amidst places renowned by feats of former days; +each hill is crowned with a tower, or camp, or +cairn; and in no situation can you be near more +fields of battle—Flodden, Otterburn, and Chevy +Chase. Ford Castle, Chillingham Castle, Coupland +Castle and many another scene of blood are within +the compass of a forenoon's ride. Out of the brooks +with which the hills are intersected, we pull trouts +of half a yard in length, as fast as we did the perches +from the pond at Pennicuik, and we are in the very +country of muirfowl.... My uncle drinks +the whey here, as I do ever since I understood it +was brought to his bedside every morning at six, +by a very pretty dairymaid. So much for my +residence. All the day we shoot, fish, walk, and +ride; dine and sup on fish struggling from the +stream, and the most delicious heath-fed mutton, +barn-door fowls, pies, milk cheese, etc, all in perfection; +and so much simplicity resides amongst +those hills that a pen, which could write at least, +was not to be found about the house, though +belonging to a considerable farmer, till I shot the +crow with whose quill I write this epistle." (See +Lockhart, chapter vi.). In this passage we have +an interesting glimpse of what Northumberland +was a hundred years ago, and of the great author +enjoying a holiday while yet reading for the law, +and before fame began to blow her trumpet in his +praise.</p> + +<p>Sweeter villages than Etal and Ford could +scarcely be imagined out of Arcadia. Etal Castle +was destroyed by James IV. previous to Flodden,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[Pg 51]</a></span> +and has never been restored. Ford Castle, built +originally in 1287, has been frequently renovated +and enlarged, and is now a most excellent example +of the military style of architecture plus the modern +mansion house. Formerly held by the Herons, its +chatelaine figures in "Marmion" as the syren +who detained the King when he ought to have +been in the field. The frescoes in Ford schoolroom, +painted by the late Lady Waterford, are objects +not only of good art but of a well-conceived philanthropy. +Ancroft and Lowick, Chatton and Chillingham +are delightful summer resorts. Chillingham +is famous for its Elizabethan Castle, but still more +so, perhaps, for its herds of wild cattle, the survivors +of the wild ox of Europe, and the supposed +progenitors of our domestic cattle. Other +summer resorts are Belford and Doddington, but +the whole coast-line, indeed, is dotted with the most +desirable holiday-nooks in the county.</p> + +<h5>PLATE 8</h5> +<h3>VIEW OF WARKWORTH</h3> +<h5>FROM A WATER-COLOUR SKETCH</h5> +<h5>PAINTED BY</h5> +<h3>JAMES ORROCK, R.I.</h3> +<p class="center"> +(<i>See pp.<a href="#Page_39">39</a> ,<a href="#Page_51">51</a> ,<a href="#Page_52">52</a> ,<a href="#Page_56">56</a> </i>)<br /> +</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="Plate_8" id="Plate_8"></a> +<img class="bbox" src="images/plate08.jpg" width="600" height="394" alt="VIEW OF WARKWORTH" +title="VIEW OF WARKWORTH" /> +</div> + +<p>The Coquet bears the palm for picturesqueness +amongst Northumbrian valleys, and is about forty +miles in length. From Alwinton, the first village +after crossing the Cheviots, where the Alwine +joins the Coquet—"a place of slumber and of +dreams remote among the hills"—to Warkworth +Castle, the stream carries history and romance +in every league of its course. Here are such +names as Biddlestone, the "Osbaldistone," of +"Rob Roy" (there are other claimants such as +Chillingham and Naworth); Harbottle, a hamlet of +venerable antiquity; Holystone, mentioned already +in connection with Paulinus; Hepple, with the +remnant of a strong peel tower of the Ogles; and +Rothbury, the capital of Upper Coquetdale, a snug<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[Pg 52]</a></span> +township in the midst of an amphitheatre of the +wild, stony Simonside hills. In the old days it was a +reiving centre of notoriety. All this part of Northumberland, +indeed, was a constant freebooting +arena, neither Scots nor English being content without +some fray on hand. There is not a village, or +a town, or farmhouse even, but has some tale to tell +of that uncanny period. Cragside, Lord Armstrong's +palatial seat, reclaimed, like Abbotsford, from the +barren mountain side, is within a mile of Rothbury. +Then come Brinkburn Priory, "an ancient fabric +awful in repose," founded by William de Bertram, +lord of Mitford, in the reign of Henry I.; Felton, a +neat little village, where Alexander of Scotland +received the homage of the Northumbrian barons; +and Warkworth, "proud of the Percy name," one +of the quaintest and oldest towns in Northumberland, +and teeming with historical and romantic +associations. So near the sea, and with some of the +rarest river scenery in the county close at hand, +the place is in high favour as a holiday resort. +A Saxon settlement, all interest centres around +its dismantled Castle, believed to have been built +by Roger Fitz-Richard, to whom Henry II. granted +in 1158 the manor of Warkworth. Strengthened +from time to time, it became a Percy possession, +and was the chief residence of the family to the +middle of the 15th century. At the height of its +power it must have been well-nigh impregnable, +encircled on three sides by the winding banks and +overhanging woods of the Coquet, and on a commanding +eminence above it; and though time and +many devastating hands have long since riven its +ancient walls, the pile still presents a splendid<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[Pg 53]</a></span> +example of a baronial stronghold, second to few +on the Borders.</p> + +<p>Among Northumbrian towns, Alnwick (the +county town) ranks next to Newcastle. But +whilst the rise of the latter and its prosperity and +colour have been each affected by the great industrial +changes of the century, Alnwick's development +has been very different. Lying peacefully +amidst pastoral hills, by the side of a river unpolluted +by modern commerce, this ancient Border +town still presents the plain and austere aspect +which it wore when the great stage-coaches passed +through on their way from London to Edinburgh. +In Newcastle, despite its numerous relics of antiquity, +one's mind is ever dominated by the potent +Present, whereas in Alnwick, it is ever under +the spell of the dreamy Past. The quaint, irregular +stone-built houses are touched with the sober hues +of antiquity, and seem to take their character from +the great baronial relic of feudal times. The +history of the town is chiefly a record of</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Old unhappy far-off things,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And battles long ago."<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>It was founded by the Saxons, who styled it Alainwick, +"the town on the clear water." Like Carlisle, +its history is largely one of attack and retaliation. +The Scottish Sovereigns were peculiarly unfortunate +at Alnwick. For here Malcolm Canmore was +speared to death in 1093, and William the Lion +made prisoner in 1174, and inside the castle of +to-day with its gilded ceilings, luxurious upholstery, +and majestic mantels of Italian workmanship +and marbles, are still to be seen the dour dungeons +in which many a Scot died miserably while the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[Pg 54]</a></span> +Percy and his retainers feasted above. King +John burned Alnwick to the ground in 1216, David +I. besieged and captured it. Each of the Edwards +visited the place. It was again devastated by the +Scots in 1427. In 1463, it was held for Edward +IV., and in 1464 it fell into the hands of Queen +Margaret. Royalists and Roundheads occupied +Alnwick during the wars between Charles and his +Parliament, but after 1700 it settled down to comparative +quiet. The Castle, of course, dominates +the place. There is what William Howitt calls "an +air of solemn feudality" overhanging the whole +town. Streets and buildings, and the general +tone harmonize well with the prevailing conditions. +Only one of its four gates survives—the gloomy, old, +weather-beaten Bondgate, built by the haughty +Hotspur about the year 1450. The Cross dates +from the same period. The most interesting and +venerable structure is the Church of St. Mary and +St. Michael, founded about the beginning of the +14th century, Perpendicular in style, and abundant +in Percy memorials. But the chief object of interest +is the Castle with the Castle enclosure (some five +acres in extent). The Castle itself is the most +magnificent specimen of a feudal fortress in England, +a verdict in which all who see it will agree. What +an extraordinarily fascinating and profoundly impressive +place, from the very stones of the courtyard +to the defiant-looking warrior figures on the +battlements of the barbican, and elsewhere. What +an endless succession of towers and turrets (some +of them with distinctive names, Hotspur and +Bloody Gap) archways and corridors, walls and +embrasures, and all the grim massive paraphernalia<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_55" id="Page_55">[Pg 55]</a></span> +of the past, apparently as doggedly determined as +ever. Perhaps, as one writer puts it, only a Percy +could live quite at his ease as master of Alnwick +Castle. One cannot imagine the average man +making himself congenially at home here. But +the inside comforts are an overflowing compensation +for a somewhat forbidding exterior. We are told +that even the towers at the angles of the encircling +walls are museums of British and Egyptian antiquities, +and game trophies, collected by members +of the family. The fourth Duke has left much to +show for the quarter of a million he lavished upon +the building—exquisite wood carving, frescoes, +marbles, and canvases. Mantovani, who restored +the Raphael frescoes in the Vatican, was not too +great a man to be hired by a Percy to adorn his +Border castle. The walls of the grand staircase +are panelled with beautiful marbles. There are +unique paintings: the dining-room, a noble apartment, +is pompous with Percys in fine frames, bewigged, +robed and plain; the first Duke and his +wife, who helped him to a dignity neither his money +nor his courtly manners could have won for him, +hang suitably in the place of honour above the +hearth. Vandyck, Moroni, and Andrea del Sarto +are worthily represented in the castle. Giorgione, +who did so well the comparatively little he had +time for, is here in his "Lady with the Lute." +Raphael, Guido, and Titian are also within these +swarthy outer walls, Titian's landscape contribution +being specially notable, like Giovanni Bellini's +"The Gods enjoying the Fruits of the Earth." +One looks from it to the fair Northumberland +country beyond the windows and then at the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[Pg 56]</a></span> +splendour and taste of the castle, and fancies, +inevitably, that the Percys themselves have in +these later days obtained quite their share of the +privileges of Bellini's gods. Nothing that makes +for domestic pleasure is lacking at Alnwick Castle. +There is a stately library of some 15,000 books, +with chairs for dreaming and chairs for study; +and, not to slight meaner comforts, there is a +kitchen that is a model of its baronial kind, about +fifty yards distant from the dining-hall, with which +it communicates by an underground passage. +The first English possession acquired by the house +of Percy north of the Tees was Dalton, afterwards +called Dalton-Percy. Then came Alnwick, originally +owned by the De Vescis, and purchased from them +about 1309; Warkworth; Prudhoe-on-Tyne, one +of the most picturesque of Northumbrian fortresses; +Cockermouth; and Keeldar, in the Cheviots. And +what of the Percys who ruled, and still rule, at +Alnwick in their day of might? Very ancient is +the name, numbering among its early patriarchs +such grand old heroes as Manfred the Dane, and</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Brave Galfred, who to Normandy<br /></span> +<span class="i0">With vent'rous Rollo came;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And from his Norman Castles won,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Assumed the Percy name."<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>The pedigree traces the descent of Angus de Perci +up to Manfred, and that of Josceline de Louvain +up from Gerberga, daughter and heiress of Charles, +Duke of Lorraine, to Charlemagne, and in the +male line to the ancient Dukes of Hainault. This +same Josceline, who was brother-in-law to King +Henry I., married in 1168, Agnes, the great Percy +heiress, and assumed the name of his wife:<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[Pg 57]</a></span></p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Lord Percy's heir I was, whose noble name<br /></span> +<span class="i0">By me survives unto his lasting fame;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Brabant's Duke's son I wed, who, for my sake,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Retained his arms, and Percy's name did take."<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>Their youngest son, Richard de Percy, then head +of the family, was one of the chief barons who +extorted Magna Charta from King John, and the +ninth Lord, Henry, gave much aid to Edward I. +in the subjugation of Scotland. It was he who +purchased Alnwick. His son—another Henry—defeated +David II. at Neville's Cross (1346); his +grandson fought at Crécy; his great-grandson, +the fourth Lord Percy of Alnwick, was marshal of +England at the coronation of Richard II., and was +created the same day Earl of Northumberland. +By far the greater part of the romance of the Percys +has centred round Harry Hotspur (eldest son of the +preceding), whom the dead Douglas defeated at +Otterburn, and who fell himself at Shrewsbury +(1403) fighting against Henry IV. The soubriquet +of Hotspur was given him because "in the silence +of the night, when others were quietly sleeping, he +laboured unwearied, as though his spur were hot."</p> + +<h5>PLATE 9</h5> +<h3>VIEW OF ALNWICK<br />CASTLE</h3> +<h5>FROM A WATER-COLOUR SKETCH</h5> +<h5>PAINTED BY</h5> +<h3>JAMES ORROCK, R.I.</h3> + +<p class="center"> +(<i>See pp. <a href="#Page_38">38</a> , <a href="#Page_49">49</a> , and <a href="#Page_53">53</a> to <a href="#Page_58">58</a> </i>)<br /> +</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="Plate_9" id="Plate_9"></a> +<img class="bbox" src="images/plate09.jpg" width="600" height="423" alt="VIEW OF ALNWICK CASTLE" title="VIEW OF ALNWICK CASTLE" /> +</div> + +<p>The first Earl was slain at Bramham Moor +(1408). The second Earl fell fighting for Henry +VI. at St. Albans in 1455. The third at Towton +(1461), and it was his brother the fourth Earl who +comforted himself as he lay bleeding to death on +Hedgley Moor (1464) that he had "saved the bird +in his bosom." The fifth Earl was murdered in +1489. The sixth Earl was the lover of Anne Boleyn, +maid of honour to Queen Catherine, and had King +Henry VIII. for his rival, who in great wrath +commanded Cardinal Wolsey to break off the +engagement between them. The seventh Earl<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[Pg 58]</a></span> +for espousing the cause of Mary, Queen of Scots, was +beheaded in 1572. The eighth Earl in 1585 was +found dead in bed with three pistol shots through +his breast, whether by suicide or murder. The +ninth Earl was imprisoned for fifteen years in the +Tower on a baseless suspicion of being privy to +the Gunpowder Plot. The tenth Earl fought on +the Parliamentary side in the Civil War, and with +the death of Josceline, the eleventh Earl, in 1670, +the male line of the family came to an end. The +eleventh Earl's only child—an heiress—married +the Duke of Somerset, who was created in 1749 +Baron Warkworth, and Earl of Northumberland, +with remainder (having no male issue) to his son-in-law +Sir Hugh Smithson, of Stanwick, a Yorkshire +knight who in his youth had been an apothecary +in Hatton Gardens. Sir Hugh succeeded to the +Earldom in 1750, and was created in 1766 Earl +Percy and Duke of Northumberland. The seventh +Duke succeeded in 1899.</p> + +<p>From Alnwick it is fourteen miles to Bamborough, +"King Ida's castle, huge and square." +No traveller along the great north road between +Alnwick and Berwick can fail to be struck with +an object so boldly prominent as Bamborough. +Far and wide it meets the vision, and is the more +conspicuous from the flat character of its surroundings +and the very open coast. Its base is an almost +perpendicular mass of basaltic rock overlooking +the sea, at a height of 150 feet. Founded in 547, it +suffered many a siege, most of all at the hands of +the Danes in 933. In the years that followed it +was being constantly rebuilt, and as constantly +stormed and broken again. As the great bombards<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[Pg 59]</a></span> +left it in the fourth Edward's reign, so it lay dismantled +for centuries. In 1720, Lord Crewe, the +philanthropic Bishop of Durham, purchased the +Castle and bequeathed it for charitable purposes—the +reception and care of the poor, etc. In +1894 it was acquired by the late Lord Armstrong, +at a cost of a quarter of a million, and fitted up as +a convalescent home. The charming village of +Bamborough, nestling within easy distance, has +some celebrity as a health resort. The church in +which St. Aidan died is one of the oldest in the +country, and the churchyard contains Grace Darling's +tomb. The Farne Islands, the scene of her +brave exploit, are easily visible from the shore. +There are seventeen in all, forming three distinct +groups, Longstone, the heroine's home, lying +farthest out. It was from the lighthouse on this +latter island that the noble maiden of barely twenty-two +descried the wreck of the <i>Forfarshire</i>, the 7th +September, 1838, and formed her resolve at rescue. +"He that goes out and sees the savage and iron +nature of the rocks will not avoid wondering at +the desperate nature of the attempt," crowned +by an almost superhuman triumph. On the great +Farne, or House Island, his favourite place of +retirement, St. Cuthbert died in 687. How his +followers bore, from shrine to shrine, the uncorrupted +body of their Bishop is a tradition well-known. +"For the space of seven years," says Reginald of +Durham, "Saint Cuthbert was carried to and fro +on the shoulders of pious men through trackless +and waterless places; when no house afforded him +a hospitable roof, he remained under covering of +tents." Further, we are told how the monks first<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[Pg 60]</a></span> +carried their precious burden to the stone church +at Norham; thence towed it up the river to +Tillmouth; on to Melrose, the Saint's home-sanctuary +by the Tweed; thence through the +Lowland glens towards the English Border where, +descending the head-waters of the Tyne, they came +to Hexham; passing westward to Carlisle in +Cumberland, and Dufton Fells in Westmoreland, +and over into Lancashire; then once more eastward +to the monastery at York; and finally +northward again to a last resting place in Durham, +when</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i4">"After many wanderings past,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">He chose his lordly seat at last<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Where his Cathedral, huge and vast,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Looks down upon the Wear."<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<h3><a name="MerrieCarlisle" id="MerrieCarlisle">"MERRIE CARLISLE"</a></h3> + +<p>A glance at the outskirts of Carlisle suggests +at once the fact that its founders had considered +the strategic value of the site. The +old Brigantes never planted their towns without +due examination of the whole lie of the land, +and especially with a view to its defencibleness. +The river-junctions were often their favourite +settling places. Hence the origin of Carlisle, and +many others of the Border towns—Hawick, Selkirk, +Kelso, etc. With its three encompassing streams—the +Eden, the Caldew, and the Petteril, which +still enclose the Castle and Cathedral hills in a sort +of quasi-island, Carlisle has been aptly called +"the city of the waters." Its situation certainly +is all but perfect, whilst the picturesqueness and the +extensiveness of its surrounding scenery are the +admiration of all who see it. Built upon a hill<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[Pg 61]</a></span> +which its walls once enclosed but which would now +shut out its most populous suburbs, Carlisle commands +a prospect only limited by the lofty mountain +chain that encircles the great basin in which +Cumberland lies. From the summit of the Cathedral +or from the Keep of the Castle, the eye sweeps without +interruption a vast prepossessing landscape, rich +in wood and water and fertile valleys, over which the +light and shade are ever gambolling, and the seasons +spreading their variegated hues. Southward, across +this fair expanse, the majestic Skiddaw rears his +noble crest, and Helvellyn his wedge-like peak, +radiant with the first and last rays of the sun. +Saddleback, and the lesser hills, link the apparently +unbroken chain with Crossfell and the eastern +range; while further to the left the Northumberland +fells bound the horizon. Then come the uplands +by Bewcastle and the Border and the pastoral +Cheviots. Away round to the west, the magnificent +belt is terminated by "huge Criffel's hoary top" +standing in solemn grandeur above the Solway.</p> + +<h5>PLATE 10</h5> +<h3>VIEW OF PRUDHOE-ON-TYNE</h3> +<h5>FROM A WATER-COLOUR SKETCH</h5> +<h5>PAINTED BY</h5> +<h3>JAMES ORROCK, R.I.</h3> + +<p class="center"> +(<i>See pp. <a href="#Page_39">39</a> and <a href="#Page_56">56</a> </i>)<br /> +</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="Plate_10" id="Plate_10"></a> +<img class="bbox" src="images/plate10.jpg" width="600" height="418" alt="VIEW OF PRUDHOE-ON-TYNE" title="VIEW OF PRUDHOE-ON-TYNE" /> +</div> + +<p>There are few fairer or wider panoramas in +Britain, and none more permeated with the very +spirit of romance. What Lockhart said of Sandyknowe +is equally true of this singularly fascinating +view-point. To whichever hand we turn we may be +sure there is "not a field but has its battle, and not +a rivulet without its song."</p> + +<p>Unlike Melrose, which may claim to be the literary +capital of the Border Country, Carlisle is the +fighting capital. Its most stirring memories are of +raiders and rescues, and its very air is</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i4">"full of ballad notes<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Borne out of long ago."<br /></span> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[Pg 62]</a></span></div></div> + +<p>Despite its Cathedral, Carlisle is really more Scottish +than English. A town which proclaimed the +Pretender must be Scottish enough. No other +English town fills so large a place in Scottish history. +And even its present manners and customs, and no +little part of its dialect, are coloured with Scottish +sentiment and tradition. For which it cannot be +a whit the worse! Walk about Carlisle, and one +is charmed with the exquisite pleasantness of the +place, the sense of comfort and prosperity that +reigns in its streets and suburbs, the steady flow of +traffic running through it, and the welcome geniality +of its inhabitants. What a delightful spot is Stanwix +yonder, for instance! And the banks of +the Eden have something of those "Eden scenes" +about them which Burns claimed for the Jed. +That Bridge is not unlike Rennie's at Kelso. The +public buildings are worth a more minute examination +than the passing stranger usually gives. An +atmosphere of delicious semi-antiquity is the crowning +feature of "Merrie Carlisle," and one feels +instinctively that under the inevitable modernity +of the place there is an older story written on its +stones—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Old legends, of the monkish page,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Traditions of the saint and sage,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Tales that have the rime of age,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And chronicles of eld."<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>It is so old a town that one cannot be certain of +its origin. The name is apparently British, derived +probably from <i>Caer Lywelydd</i>, or simply Caer +Lywel, "the town or fort of Lywel," but whether +this was a tribal, or local, or personal name it would +be hazardous to say. By the Romans it was known +as <i>Luguvallium</i> or <i>Luguballia</i>, possibly "the town<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[Pg 63]</a></span> +or fort by the Wall." This the Saxons abbreviated +and altered to <i>Luel</i>, the original name, with the +prefix <i>Caer</i>, hence Caer-Luel, Caerleil, Carleol, +Karluil, Karliol, Carliol, Carlile, and Carlisle.</p> + +<p>"No English city," says Bishop Creighton, +"has a more distinctive character than Carlisle, +and none can claim to have borne its character +so continuously through the course of English +history. Carlisle is still known as 'the Border +city,' and though the term 'the Border' has no +longer any historical significance, it still denotes a +district which has strongly marked peculiarities +and retains a vigorous provincial life. There was +a time when the western Border was equally important +with the Border on the north, when the +fortress on the Dee had to be stoutly held against +the foe, and when the town which rose among the +scrub by the upper Severn was a place of conflict +between contending races. But this struggle was +not of long duration, and Chester and Shrewsbury +ceased to be distinctly Border towns. On the north, +however, the contest continued to be stubbornly +waged, till it raised up a population inured to warfare, +who carried the habits of a predatory life +into a time when they were mere survivals of a +well-nigh forgotten past. Of this period of conflict +Carlisle is the monument, and of this lawless life +it was long the capital. Berwick-upon-Tweed +alone could venture to share its glory or dispute +its supremacy; but Berwick was scarcely a town; +it was rather a military outpost, changing hands +from time to time between the combatants; it +was neither Scottish nor English, more than a +castle, but less than a town, an accidental growth<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[Pg 64]</a></span> +of circumstances, scarcely to be classed as an +element of popular life. Carlisle, on the other +hand, traces its origin to times of venerable antiquity, +and can claim through all its changes to have +carried on in unbroken succession the traditions +of an historic life. It was the necessary centre +of a large tract of country, and whether its inhabitants +were British or English its importance remained +the same. It was not merely a military +position, but a place of habitation, the habitation +of a people who had to trust much to themselves, +and who amidst all vicissitudes retained a sturdy +spirit of independence. This is the distinguishing +feature of Carlisle; it is 'the Border city.' But +though this is its leading characteristic which runs +through all its history, it has two other marks of +distinction, when compared with other English +towns. It is the only town on British soil which +bears a purely British name; and it is the only +town which has been added to England since the +Norman Conquest."</p> + +<h5>PLATE 11</h5> +<h3>VIEW OF CARLISLE</h3> +<h5>FROM A WATER-COLOUR SKETCH</h5> +<h5>PAINTED BY</h5> +<h3>JAMES ORROCK, R.I.</h3> + +<p class="center"> +(<i>See pp. <a href="#Page_44">44</a> , and <a href="#Page_60">60</a> to <a href="#Page_70">70</a> </i>)<br /> +</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 443px;"> +<a name="Plate_11" id="Plate_11"></a> +<img class="bbox" src="images/plate11.jpg" width="443" height="600" alt="VIEW OF CARLISLE" title="VIEW OF CARLISLE" /> +</div> + +<p>Briefly, the headlines of Carlisle's history are +these. Founded originally by the Britons, it was +held by the Romans for close on four centuries. +Many Roman remains (coins, medals, altars, etc.) +have been unearthed, and Hadrian's big Wall +(murus and vallum) is still traceable in several +quarters. A sad spoliation by Pict and Scot +followed the Roman withdrawal. They scarcely +left one stone on another. Then came the Saxon +supremacy under the good King Egfrith, with the +spiritual oversight under Saint Cuthbert, to whom +and his successors at Lindisfarne were bestowed +in perpetuity the city with fifteen miles around it.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_65" id="Page_65">[Pg 65]</a></span> +But for Egfrith's death fighting the Picts on the +far-off moorland of Nechtansmere (Dunnichen in +Forfarshire) Carlisle might have risen early and +rapidly to a sure place as one of the leading cities in +the land. From 685, however, to the Conquest (1066) +the place was virtually extinct. It was only then that +a new epoch arose for the broken city as for the whole +of England. The Conqueror himself is said to have +commenced the rebuilding of Carlisle, but the +town owes its restoration rather to his son William +the Red, who, on his return from Alnwick, after +concluding a peace treaty with the King of Scotland +in 1092, "observed the pleasantness of its situation, +and resolved to raise it from its ruins." The Castle, +the Priory, the once massive city walls, were all +the work of the Rufus regime, completed by Henry +I., who gave cathedral dignity to the church at +Carlisle. David I., the "Sair Sanct," raided Carlisle +in 1136, and kept court for a time within its +walls, which he heightened. It was at Carlisle +that his death took place in 1153. From that +date to the 'Forty-five, Carlisle's history is mainly +that of a kind of "buffer-state" between the two +kingdoms. Few cities recall so many martial +memories. It was Edward's base of operations in +his Scottish wars. It was besieged by Wallace in +1298, by Bruce in 1315—the year after Bannockburn, +and again in 1322. Queen Mary's captivity +at Carlisle in 1568; Buccleuch's daring and gallant +rescue of Kinmont Willie in 1596, immortalised in +the best of the Border ballads; the protracted +siege by General Leslie in 1644 during the Parliamentary +War; and the Pretender's short-lived +triumph—these are the rest of its leading events.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[Pg 66]</a></span></p> + +<p>Of the historic Carlisle little is left, the Castle, +the Cathedral, and the Guildhall being almost the sole +relics of a long and notable past. Yet how vastly +changed the place is from the quiet little Border +town of a century ago even! Then it had barely +ten thousand inhabitants, now there are over forty +thousand. As the county town of Cumberland, +and next to Newcastle the greatest railway centre +in the north of England, its prosperity has grown +by leaps and bounds. It is the terminus of no +fewer than eight different lines, and its busy, +never-at-rest Citadel Station is known all the +world over. Gates and walls have long since +vanished from "Merrie Carlisle." The streets are +wide and airy, and altogether it presents a most +comfortable and thriving appearance. At 40, English +Street, the chief thoroughfare, Prince Charlie slept +for four nights during the '45. And from 79 to 83, +Castle Street, the corner building (now a solicitor's +office), between Castle Street and the Green-market, +Scott led Miss Carpenter to the altar. Carlisle +Castle, a huge, irregular reddish-brown stone structure, +grim and defiant, with its almost perfect +specimen of a Norman Keep, and battlements +frowning towards the north, is still a place to see.</p> + +<p>But it is the Cathedral which is Carlisle's +chief glory. Rising in the centre of the city, high +above all other buildings except the factory chimneys, +there is an air of importance about it not +altogether justifiable. The building is small and +not of very great account, the reason being that +Carlisle was only erected into a See in 1133, and then +out of Durham. The result was that the parish +church was promoted to the dignity of a cathedral.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[Pg 67]</a></span> +Nevertheless, it has several striking features—a +delightful Early English choir and magnificent +east window, reputed to be unsurpassed by any +other in the kingdom, if indeed in the world. From +1092, the date of the original building, to 1400-19, +in Bishop Strickland's time, when the north transept +was restored and the central tower rebuilt, +and down to the present day, the edifice contains +every variety of style, from Norman to Perpendicular, +with admirable specimens of nineteenth +century work. Of the original Norman minster +the only parts remaining are two bays of the nave, +the south transept, and the piers of the tower. +How long the church remained in its pristine state +it is impossible to say. The first alteration was +probably the enlargement of the choir, towards +the middle and close of the thirteenth century, +immediately before the great fire of 1292, the worst +the cathedral has experienced in its four burnings. +The work of reconstruction after 1292 appears to +have been somewhat slow, so slow that little was +done till the year 1352, when Bishop Welton and +his successor set themselves in earnest to the task. +"The king, the city treasury, and the leading +families of the neighbourhood contributed towards +the restoration, in response to the urgent appeals +of the bishops and to the indulgences issued for the +remission of forty days' penance to such laity as +should by money, materials, or labour, contribute +to the pious work." Towards the close of the +reign of Edward III. the renovated pile rose from +it ruins. To this period belongs the entire east end, +with its grand window, the triforium, the carved +capitals of the arches, and the Decorated windows<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[Pg 68]</a></span> +of the clerestory. The ceiling was painted and +gilded and panelled, the intersections glowing with +the armorial bearings of the rich donors by whose +liberality the work had been carried to completion. +The windows were filled with stained glass, and +the nine lights of the east window with figures.</p> + +<h5>PLATE 12</h5> +<h3>VIEW OF NAWORTH<br />CASTLE</h3> +<h5>FROM A WATER-COLOUR SKETCH</h5> +<h5>PAINTED BY</h5> +<h3>JAMES ORROCK, R.I.</h3> + +<p class="center"> +(<i>See pp. <a href="#Page_39">39</a> and <a href="#Page_74">74</a> </i>)<br /> +</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="Plate_12" id="Plate_12"></a> +<img class="bbox" src="images/plate12.jpg" width="600" height="434" alt="VIEW OF NAWORTH CASTLE" title="VIEW OF NAWORTH CASTLE" /> +</div> + +<p>In this state the cathedral appears to have +remained till 1392, when another fire occurred, +which destroyed the north transept. A lack of +funds was again felt, and it was not till the lapse +of nine or ten years that the restoration was completed. +Only about a century later, however, +Carlisle shared the fate of the monastic institutions, +and was suppressed, and the church shorn of many +of its enrichments. The Civil Wars witnessed the +worst acts of spoliation, when nearly the whole +of the nave, the chapter-house and cloisters were +destroyed, the materials being used for guard-house +purposes in the city. The reign of the "Puritan +patchwork" may then be said to have begun, +with plaster partitions here and there in horrifying +evidence, the niches emptied of their treasures, +and the fine old stained glass removed from the +windows—and all, as was declared, in the spirit of +"repairing and beautifying." "A great, wild +country church," is its description about this time, +"and as it appeared outwardly, so it was inwardly, +ne'er beautify'd, nor adorn'd one whit." Not till +1853-57 was a general restoration, costing £15,000, +inaugurated. Both internally and externally the +edifice underwent a total renovation. Old and +crumbled portions were pulled down and rebuilt; +other parts were fronted anew; missing ornaments +were supplied; ugly doorways were blocked up,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[Pg 69]</a></span> +and one grand entrance made befitting the church. +The renaissance was complete as it was judicious. +There was just sufficient of the old left to show +the original structure, and sufficient of the new +imparted to save the venerable fane from crumbling +to pieces. Externally, the east is certainly the +finest part of the building, with its unrivalled +window—58 feet high and 32½ feet wide, of nine +lights, gracefully proportioned, the head filled +with the most exquisite tracery-work, comprising +no fewer than 263 circles. A uniquely ornamented +gable, with a row of crosses on either shoulder, +and a large cross at the apex, completes a highly +finished centre. On either side stands out, in +massive relief, a majestic buttress, containing full +length statues of St. Peter, St. Paul, St James, +and St. John, above which are light and elegant +pinnacles. These great buttresses are flanked by +the lesser ones of the aisles, tapering upwards with +chastely carved spires—the whole forming an +eastern front of great beauty and richness. The +main entrance by a new doorway in the south +transept is a triumph of the sculptor's skill. The +great tower, 112 feet high, has been thoroughly +renovated, and much of its former ornamentation +restored. Of the interior, the nave is in length +39 feet, and in width about 60 feet. The Scots +are said to have destroyed 100 feet of it in 1645, +but that is quite uncertain. It has never been +rebuilt, and has a serious effect on the general +proportions, inducing a feeling of want of balance. +Up to 1870 the nave was used as the parish church +of St. Mary, and it was here—close by the great +Norman columns—that Sir Walter Scott was<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[Pg 70]</a></span> +married to Charlotte Carpenter, on December 24th, +1797. The spot might well be indicated by a small +memorial brass. The richly-decorated choir, in +no respect inferior to that of any other English +cathedral, is 134 feet long, 71 feet broad, and 75 +feet high. The warm red of the sandstone, the +blue roof powdered with golden stars, the great +east window filled with stained glass, and the dark +oak of the stalls, make up a picture that enforces +attention before the architectural details can receive +their due admiration.</p> + +<p>The Cathedral contains several interesting +monuments. Here is the tomb of Archdeacon Paley +(1805), author of the "Evidences of Christianity" +and "Horæ Paulinæ," both written at Carlisle, +and the richly-carved pulpit inscribed to his memory. +There are tablets to Robert Anderson (1833), the +"Cumberland Bard;" to John Heysham, M.D. +(1834), the statistician, and compiler of the "Carlisle +Tables of Mortality;" George Moore (1876), the +philanthropist; M. L. Watson (1847), the sculptor; +Dean Cranmer (1848), Canon Harcourt (1870), and +Dean Close (1882). Several military monuments +are in evidence. One of the windows commemorates +the five children of Archbishop Tait (then Dean), +who died between March 6th and April 9th, 1856. +Recumbent figures of Bishop Waldegrave (1869), +Bishop Harvey Goodwin (1891) and Dean Close +are by Acton Adams, Hamo Thorneycroft, R.A., +and H. H. Armistead, R.A., respectively. The +older altar-tombs and brasses to Bishop Bell, +Bishop Everdon, and Prior Stenhouse, should not +be overlooked, and attention may be drawn also to +the quaint series of fifth-century paintings from<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[Pg 71]</a></span> +the monkish legends of St. Augustine, St. Anthony, +and St. Cuthbert, and to the misereres of the +stalls.</p> + +<p>Scarcely less interesting than Carlisle itself is +the immediate neighbourhood of the Border city. +And with what sterling picturesqueness does it +appeal to us! One does not wonder that Turner +and others found some of their masterpieces here. +A wondrously historic countryside, too, is all this +pleasantly-rolling tableland, mile upon mile to +the Liddesdale and Eskdale heights with the +Langholm Monument fairly visible as a rule, and +sometimes even the famous Repentance Tower +opposite Hoddom Kirk. Within twenty miles or +so of Carlisle, up through the old Waste and Debateable +Lands, or over into the romantic Vale of the +Irthing, the dividing-point betwixt Cumberland +and Northumberland, the district is full of the most +fascinating material for the geographer and the +historian. It is impossible to do more than mention +a few of its memory-moving names. At Burghby-Sands, +Edward I., "the Hammer of the Scots," +having offered up his litter before the high altar +at Carlisle, vowing to reduce Scotland to the condition +of a mere English province, was forced to +succumb to a grimmer adversary than lay anywhere +beyond the Solway. Bowness-by-the-Sea +was the western terminus of the Roman Wall. +Arthuret has its name from the "Flower of Kings," +one of whose twelve battles is said to have been +fought there. Archie Armstrong, jester to King +James VI., lies buried in its churchyard. At +Longtown, on the Esk, the Jacobite troops forded +the river "shouther to shouther," as Lady Nairne's<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[Pg 72]</a></span> +lyric has it, dancing reels on the bank till they +had dried themselves. Netherby, the <i>locale</i> of +"Young Lochinvar," Lady Heron's song in "Marmion," +is in the near neighbourhood. So are Gilnockie +or the Hollows, Johnie Armstrong's home, +and Gretna Green, that once so popular but now +defunct shrine of Venus. All this once bleak and +barren bog-land is under generous cultivation now to +a large extent, stretching from the Sark to the Esk, +and eastward to Canonbie Lea; it was the +treacherously Debateable, or No Man's Land of +moss-trooping times, the most troubled and unsafe +period of Border history. Solway Moss, some +seven miles in circumference, is not likely to be +forgotten—by Scotsmen, at any rate. It was the +disastrous Rout of the Solway which hastened +James V.'s death from a broken heart.</p> + +<h5>PLATE 13</h5> +<h3>VIEW OF LANERCOST<br />PRIORY</h3> +<h5>FROM A WATER-COLOUR SKETCH</h5> +<h5>PAINTED BY</h5> +<h3>JAMES ORROCK, R.I.</h3> + +<p class="center"> +(<i>See pp. <a href="#Page_36">36</a> and <a href="#Page_74">74</a> </i>)<br /> +</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="Plate_13" id="Plate_13"></a> +<img class="bbox" src="images/plate13.jpg" width="600" height="428" alt="VIEW OF LANERCOST PRIORY" title="VIEW OF LANERCOST PRIORY" /> +</div> + +<p>The Irthing valley is replete with historical +remains and literary associations. Over there, to the +north of Bewcastle (Beuth's Castle), there is a celebrated +Runic Cross nearly fifteen feet high, of the +Caedmon order, similar to that at Ruthwell. The +Irthing flows through the wide moorish wilderness +known as Spade-Adam, or the Waste, crosses the +Roman Wall at Gilsland, thence courses amongst +some of the richest scenery in Cumberland until +it meets the Eden. Gilsland Spa has long been +noted for the excellence of its waters and the remarkable +salubrity of the district. Scott stayed at the +old Shaw's Hotel in July, 1797, not the present +palatial Convalescent Home (as it now is) which +was rebuilt after a fire about fifty years since. +Charlotte Carpenter was a guest at Wardrew House, +directly opposite. They met often, and the result<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_73" id="Page_73">[Pg 73]</a></span> +was love and marriage. On a huge boulder by the +banks of the Irthing, where the glen comes to its +steepest and wears its most enchanting aspect, +Scott is said to have "popped the question," and the +"Kissing Bush" where the compact was sealed is +also pointed out close by. At Gilsland it is interesting +to recall that one is to some extent in "Guy Mannering +Land." A small private dwelling adjoining +the Methodist Chapel claims to stand on the site +of the notorious Mumps Ha', "a hedge ale-house, +where the Border farmers of either country +often stopped to refresh themselves and their nags +on their way to and from the fairs and trysts in +Cumberland." It was there that young Harry +Bertram first met Dandie Dinmont and the weird +figure of Meg Merrilies, who, by the way, was not +buried at Upper Denton, as the guide-books say. +It was the treacherous landlady, Meg Mumps or +Margaret Carrick, who is there interred. The more +important Meg—the real heroine of the story—was +drowned in the Eden at Carlisle. Gilsland is a +centre for some delightful excursions. Much of +the Roman Wall may be visited from this centre, +its two chief stations Borcovicus (Housesteads) and +Burdoswald being within easy distances. The +little Northumberland lakes, and the prettiest of +them all, Crag Loch, the Nine Nicks of Thirlwall, +seen from the Shaws with fine effect, Thirlwall and +Blenkinsop Castles, Haltwhistle Church, all to the +east, are objects of deep and abiding interest. Westward +are Burdoswald—the Roman Amboglanna—covering +an area of 5½ acres, and overlooking a +singularly graceful bend of the Irthing (not unlike +that on the Tweed at Bemersyde); Lanercost<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[Pg 74]</a></span> +Priory<a name="FNanchor_A_1" id="FNanchor_A_1"></a><a href="#Footnote_A_1" class="fnanchor">[A]</a>, founded by Robert de Vaux about 1166, +frequently plundered by the Scots, and used now +partly as the parish church and burial-place of the +Carlisle family; Naworth,<a name="FNanchor_B_2" id="FNanchor_B_2"></a><a href="#Footnote_B_2" class="fnanchor">[B]</a> the historic seat of the +Earl of Carlisle, whose ancestor, Lord William +Howard, was the famous "Belted Will" of Border +story, who died in 1640:—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"His Bilboa blade, by marchmen felt,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Hung in a broad and studded belt;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Hence, in rude phrase, the Borderers still<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Call noble Howard, 'Belted Will,'"—<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>and Triermain Castle, all but vanished, whence +Scott's "Bridal of Triermain"—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Where is the Maiden of mortal strain,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">That may match with the Baron of Triermain?<br /></span> +<span class="i0">She must be lovely, and constant and kind,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Holy and pure, and humble of mind,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Blithe of cheer, and gentle of mood,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Courteous, and generous, and noble of blood—<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Lovely as the sun's first ray,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">When it breaks the clouds of an April day,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Constant and true as the widow'd dove,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Kind as a minstrel that sings of love."<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_A_1" id="Footnote_A_1"></a><a href="#FNanchor_A_1"><span class="label">[A]</span></a> Lanercost is a fine example of Early English. The +church consists of a nave with north aisle, a transept with +aisles on the east side used as monumental chapels and +choir, a chancel, and a low square tower. The nave is +used as the Parish Church. The crypt contains several +Roman altars from Burdoswald, etc. Some of the inscriptions +are of great interest.</p></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_B_2" id="Footnote_B_2"></a><a href="#FNanchor_B_2"><span class="label">[B]</span></a> Naworth is said to be one of the oldest and best +specimens existing of a baronial residence. It is associated +largely with the turbulent times of Border warfare. "Belted +Will," a terror to all marauders, is its best-known name, +"a singular lover of venerable antiquities, and learned +withal," as Camden describes him. The British Museum +contains some of his letters, and his library is still preserved +at Naworth. "Belted Will's" Tower, to the north-east +of the Castle, is the most notable feature at Naworth.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[Pg 75]</a></span></p></div> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<h2><a name="III_THE_TWEED_AND_ITS" id="III_THE_TWEED_AND_ITS"></a>III. THE TWEED AND ITS ASSOCIATIONS.</h2> + +<p>"Both are good, the streams of north and +south, but he who has given his heart to +the Tweed as did Tyro in Homer to the +Enipeus, will never change his love." So does +Mr. Andrew Lang remind us of his affection for +Tweedside and the Border. Elsewhere he speaks +of Tweed shrining the music of his cradle song, and +the requiem he would most prefer—may that day +be long in coming!</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i4">"No other hymn<br /></span> +<span class="i0">I'd choose, nor gentler requiem dear<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Than Tweed's, that through death's twilight dim,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Mourned in the latest Minstrel's ear."<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>Lockhart's description of Sir Walter's death-scene, +so touching in its very simplicity, has never been +matched in literary biography. From the first +years of his life, Scott was wedded to the Tweed. +It was his ancestral stream. And it stood for all that +was best and fairest in Border story. It was by the +Tweed that he won his greatest triumphs, and faced +his greatest defeats, where he spent the happiest +as well as the most strenuous period of his career. +So that, to breathe his last breath by its pleasant +banks—a desire oft repeated—was as natural as it +was keen and eager. We know how at length +he was borne back to Abbotsford, the house of his +dreams, and how on one of those ideal days during +the early autumn that crowning wish was realised; +"It was a beautiful day, so warm that every window +was wide open, and so perfectly still that the sound +of all others most delicious to his ear—the gentle<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[Pg 76]</a></span> +ripple of the Tweed over its pebbles—was distinctly +audible as we knelt around the bed and his +eldest son kissed and closed his eyes."</p> + +<p>Of course, it is owing, in great measure, to +Scott that the Tweed has so exalted a place in +literature. To speak of the Tweed at once recalls +Scott and all that the Tweed meant to him. Both +in a sense are names inseparable and synonymous. +It is almost entirely for Scott's sake that Tweedside +has become one of the world-Meccas. What Scott +did for the Tweed—the Border—renders it (to speak +reverently) holy ground for ever. Hence the +affection with which the world looks on Scott—as +a patriot,—as one who has helped to create his +country, and as a great literary magnet attracting +thousands to it, and as the medium of some of the +most pleasurable of mental experiences. Of the +great names on Scotland's roll of honour, Scott, +even more than all of them (even more than +Burns), has wedded his country to the very best +of humankind everywhere. But do not let us +forget that Tweed had its lovers many before +Scott's day. Burns's pilgrimage to the Border +was a picturesque episode in his poetic history. +"Yarrow and Tweed to monie a tune owre Scotland +rings," he wrote, and other lines represent a warm +admiration for the district. Tweed was a "wimpling +stately" stream, and there were "Eden scenes +on crystal Jed" scarcely less fascinating. James +Thomson, the poet of the "Seasons," a Tweedsider, +though the fact is often forgotten, pays +grateful homage to the Tweed as the "pure parent-stream, +whose pastoral banks first heard my Doric +reed." Allan Ramsay and Robert Crawford,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[Pg 77]</a></span> +West-country men both, came early under the spell +of the fair river. Crawford's lines are painted +with the usual exaggeration of the period:</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"What beauties does Flora disclose!<br /></span> +<span class="i0">How sweet are her smiles upon Tweed!<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Yet Mary's, still sweeter than those,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Both nature and fancy exceed.<br /></span> +<span class="i0">No daisy, nor sweet blushing rose,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Not all the gay flowers of the field,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Not Tweed, gliding gently through those,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Such beauty and pleasure does yield."<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>Hamilton of Bangour, best known for his "Braes +of Yarrow," has an autumn and winter description +of Tweedside which naturally suggests the like +picture by Scott in the Introduction to Canto I. +of "Marmion," and it is more than probable that +Sir Walter had this in his mind when penning his +own more perfect lines.</p> + +<h5>PLATE 14</h5> +<h3>VIEW OF BEWCASTLE</h3> +<h5>FROM A WATER-COLOUR SKETCH</h5> +<h5>PAINTED BY</h5> +<h3>JAMES ORROCK, R.I.</h3> + +<p class="center"> +(<i>See pp. <a href="#Page_44">44</a> , <a href="#Page_67">67</a> , <a href="#Page_72">72</a> </i>)<br /> +</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="Plate_14" id="Plate_14"></a> +<img class="bbox" src="images/plate14.jpg" width="600" height="448" alt="VIEW OF BEWCASTLE" title="VIEW OF BEWCASTLE" /> +</div> + +<p>Robert Fergusson—Burns's "elder brother in +the Muses," had his imagination fired by the +memories of the Border, and was one of the first to +celebrate that land over which lies the light of so +much poetic fancy:</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"The Arno and the Tiber lang<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Hae run full clear in Roman sang;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">But, save the reverence o' schools!<br /></span> +<span class="i0">They're baith but lifeless dowy pools,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Dought they compare wi' bonny Tweed,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">As clear as ony lammer-bead?"<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>Wordsworth, too, sang of the "gentle Tweed, and +the green silent pastures," though his winsome +Three Yarrows is the tie that most endears him to +the Lowland hearts. Since Scott's day the voices +in praise of Tweed have been legion. "Who, with +a heart and a soul tolerably at ease within him, +could fail to be happy, hearing as we do now the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[Pg 78]</a></span> +voice of the Tweed, singing his pensive twilight +song to the few faint stars that have become visible +in heaven?" says John Wilson in his rollicking +"Streams" essay (no "crusty Christopher" there, at +any rate). Thomas Tod Stoddart, king of angling +rhymers,</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i4">"Angled far and angled wide,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">On Fannich drear, by Luichart's side;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Across dark Conan's current,"<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>and all over Scotland, but found not another stream +to match with the Tweed:</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i4">"Dearer than all these to me<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Is sylvan Tweed; each tower and tree<br /></span> +<span class="i0">That in its vale rejoices;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Dearer the streamlets one and all<br /></span> +<span class="i0">That blend with its Eolian brawl<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Their own enamouring voices!"<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>Remember, too, Dr. John Brown's exquisite Tweed's +Well meditation, a prose sermon to ponder over +any Sabbath, and Ruskin's homely reverie—"I +can never hear the whispering and sighing of the +Tweed among his pebbles, but it brings back to +me the song of my nurse as we used to cross +by Coldstream Bridge, from the south, in our +happy days—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"For Scotland, my darling, lies full in my view,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">With her barefooted lasses, and mountains so blue."<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>One thinks also of George Borrow's fascination +for the Scottish Border, when he asks ("Lavengro") +"Which of the world's streams can Tweed envy, +with its beauty and renown?" and of Thomas +Aird's pathetic retrospect—"the ever-dear Tweed, +whose waters flow continually through my heart, +and make me often greet in my lonely evenings."<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[Pg 79]</a></span> +Nor do we forget John Veitch, that truest Tweedsman +of his time, always musing on the Tweed, +never at home but beside it, and of whose Romance +and History there has been no abler exponent.</p> + +<p>Of the name Tweed itself, the meaning and +origin are uncertain, and it is hopeless to dogmatize +on the subject except to say that there is an apparent +connection with the Cymric Tay, Taff, Teith, +and Teviot—more properly "Teiott," the common +pronunciation above Hawick. Mr. Johnston +("Place-Names of Scotland") traces it to the Celtic +<i>twyad</i>—"a hemming in"—from "<i>twy</i> to check or +bind," which is a not unlikely derivation. As +to the source of the Tweed there is the curious +paradox that what passes for its source is not the +real <i>fons et origo</i> of the stream. Poetically, the +Tweed is said to take its rise in the tiny Tweed's +Well among the Southern Highlands, 1250 feet +above sea level, and close to where the marches of +Peeblesshire, Lanarkshire, and Dumfriesshire meet. +But strictly speaking, the correct source is the Cor +or Corse Burn, a little higher up, which, dancing +its way to the glen beneath, receives the outflow +of the Well as a sort of first tributary. For purposes +of romance, however, Tweed's Well will always +be reckoned as the source, as indeed it must have +been so regarded ages ago. The likelihood is that +Tweed's Well was one of the ancient holy wells +common to many parts of Scotland. And since tradition +speaks of a Mungo's Well somewhere in these solitudes, +the probability is that we have it here in +the heart of these silent lonely hills. There is the +tradition of a cross, too, at or near Tweed's Well, +borne out in the place-name Corse, which, we<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[Pg 80]</a></span> +know, is good Scots for Cross. That such a symbol +of the ancient faith stood here long since "to +remind travellers of their Redeemer and to guide +them withal across these desolate moors," is more +than a mere picturesque legend. It is a prolific +watershed this from which Tweed starts its seaward +race. South and west, Annan and Clyde +bend their way to the Solway and the Atlantic, +as the quaint quatrain has it:</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Annan, Tweed, and Clyde<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Rise a' oot o' ae hillside,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Tweed ran, Annan wan,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Clyde brak his neck owre Corra Linn."<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>Tweed turns its face to the north, and running for +the most part, as old Pennecuik puts it, "with a +soft yet trotting stream," it pursues a course of +slightly over a hundred miles, and drains a basin +of no less than 1870 square miles, a larger area than +any other Scottish river except the Tay.</p> + +<h5>PLATE 15</h5> +<h3>VIEW OF MELROSE</h3> +<h5>FROM A WATER-COLOUR SKETCH</h5> +<h5>PAINTED BY</h5> +<h3>JAMES ORROCK, R.I.</h3> + +<p class="center"> +(<i>See pp. <a href="#Page_23">23</a> , <a href="#Page_35">35</a> , <a href="#Page_39">39</a> , <a href="#Page_60">60</a> , <a href="#Page_61">61</a> , <a href="#Page_89">89</a> , <a href="#Page_90">90</a> , <a href="#Page_91">91</a> , <a href="#Page_123">123</a> </i>)<br /> +</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="Plate_15" id="Plate_15"></a> +<img class="bbox" src="images/plate15.jpg" width="600" height="448" alt="VIEW OF MELROSE" title="VIEW OF MELROSE" /> +</div> + +<p>Tweed's Well lies in the bosom of solemn, bare +hills. There is nothing attractive about the spot. +Grey moorlands, riddled with innumerable inky +peat-bogs, the whaups crying as Stevenson heard +them in his dreams, and the bleat of an occasional +sheep are the chief characteristics. There is little +heather, and the hills are hardly so shapely as their +neighbours further down the valley. A first glance +is disappointing, but the memories of the place +are compensation enough. For what a stirring +place it must have been in the early centuries! +Here, as tradition asserts, the pagan bard Merlin +was converted to Christianity through the preaching +of the Glasgow Saint Mungo. Here Michael Scot, +the "wondrous wizard," pursued his mysteries.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[Pg 81]</a></span> +And even the Flower of Kings himself wandered +amongst those wilds, "of fresh aventours dreaming." +One of his twelve battles is claimed for the +locality. More historic, perhaps, is the picture of +the good Sir James of Douglas (red-handed from +dirking the Comyn) plighting his troth to the +Bruce at Ericstane Brae, close to Tweed's Well, +which latter spot, by the way, Dr. John Brown +characteristically describes in one of his shorter +"Horæ" papers. Readers of the "Enterkin" +also will remember his reference to the mail-coach +tragedy of 1831, when MacGeorge and his companion, +Goodfellow, perished in the snow in a +heroic attempt to get the bags through to Tweedshaws. +At Tweedsmuir, (the name of the parish—disjoined +from Drumelzier in 1643)—eight miles +down, the valley opens somewhat, and vegetation +properly begins. Of Tweedsmuir Kirk—on the +peninsula between Tweed and Talla—Lord Cockburn +said that it had the prettiest situation in +Scotland. John Hunter, a Covenant martyr, sleeps +in its bonnie green kirk-knowe—the only Covenant +grave in the Border Counties outside Dumfries +and Galloway. Talla Linns recalls the conventicle +mentioned in the "Heart of Midlothian," at which +Scott makes Davie Deans a silent but much-impressed +spectator. In the wild Gameshope Glen, +close by, Donald Cargill and James Renwick, and +others lay oft in hiding. "It will be a bloody night +this in Gemsop," are the opening words of Hogg's +fine Covenant tale, the "Brownie of Bodsbeck." +The Talla Valley contains the picturesque new lake +whence Edinburgh draws its augmented water +supply. Young Hay of Talla was one of Bothwell's<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[Pg 82]</a></span> +"Lambs," and suffered death for the Darnley +murder. At the Beild—regaining the Tweed—Dr. +John Ker, one of the foremost pulpiteers of his +generation, was born in 1819. Oliver Castle was +the home of the Frasers, Lords of Tweeddale before +they were Lords of Lovat. The Crook Inn was a +noted "howff" in the angling excursions of Christopher +North and the Ettrick Shepherd. Mr. Lang +thinks that possibly the name suggested the "Cleikum +Inn" of "St. Ronan's Well." At the Crook, +William Black ends his "Adventures of a Phæton" +with the climax of all good novels, an avowal of +love and a happy engagement. Polmood, near by, +was the scene of Hogg's lugubrious "Bridal of +Polmood," seldom read now, one imagines. Kingledoors +in two of its place-names preserves the +memory of Cuthbert and Cristin, the Saint and his +hermit-disciple. Stanhope was a staunch Jacobite +holding, one of its lairds being the infamous Murray +of Broughton, Prince Charlie's secretary, the Judas +of the cause. Murray, by the way, was discovered +in hiding after Culloden at Polmood, the abode of +his brother-in-law, Michael Hunter. Linkumdoddie +has been immortalized in Burns's versicles beginning, +"Willie Wastle dwalt on Tweed"—a study in +idiomatic untranslateable Scots. Here is the picture +of Willie's wife—a philological puzzle.</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"She's bow-hough'd, she's hein-shinn'd,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Ae limpin leg a hand-breed shorter;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">She's twisted right, she's twisted left,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">To balance fair in ilka quarter;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">She has a hump upon her breast,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">The twin o' that upon her shouther;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Sic a wife as Willie had,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">I wadna gie a button for her.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_83" id="Page_83">[Pg 83]</a></span><br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Auld bandrons by the ingle sits,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">An' wi' her loof her face a-washin';<br /></span> +<span class="i0">But Willie's wife is nae sae trig<br /></span> +<span class="i0">She dights her grunzie wi' a hushion;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Her walie nieves like midden-creels,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Her face wad 'fyle the Logan Water;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Sic a wife as Willie had,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">I wadna gie a button for her."<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>At Drumelzier Castle the turbulent, tyrannical +Tweedies reigned in their day of might. Of their +ghostly origin, the Introduction to the "Betrothed" +supplies the key. They were constantly at feud +with their neighbours, specially the Veitches, and +were in the Rizzio murder. See their history (a +work of genuine local interest) written quite recently +by Michael Forbes Tweedie, a London scion of the +clan. In the same neighbourhood, the fragment of +Tinnis Castle (there is a Tinnis on Yarrow, too,) +juts out from its bold bluff, not unlike a robber's +eyrie on the Rhine. Curiously, this is a reputed +Ossian scene (see the poem, "Calthon and Colmal.") +The "blue Teutha," is the Tweed—"Dunthalmo's +town," Drumelzier. Merlin's Grave, near Drumelzier +Kirk, should not be forgotten. Bower's +"Scotichronicon" narrates the circumstances of +his death: "On the same day which he foretold +he met his death; for certain shepherds of a chief +of a country called Meldred set upon him with +stones and staves, and, stumbling in his agony, +he fell from a high bank of the Tweed, near the town +of Drumelzier (the ridge of Meldred), upon a sharp +stake that the fishers had placed in the waters, and +which pierced his body through. He was buried +near the spot where he expired."<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[Pg 84]</a></span></p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Ah! well he loved the Powsail Burn (<i>i.e.</i>, the burn of the willows)<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Ah! well he loved the Powsail glen;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And there, beside his fountain clear,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">He soothed the frenzy of his brain.<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">Ah! Merlin, restless was thy life,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">As the bold stream whose circles sweep<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Mid rocky boulders to its close<br /></span> +<span class="i0">By thy lone grave, in calm so deep.<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">For no one ever loved the Tweed<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Who was not loved by it in turn;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">It smiled in gentle Merlin's face,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">It soughs in sorrow round his bourn."<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>A prophecy of Thomas the Rhymer—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"When Tweed and Powsail meet at Merlin's Grave,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">England and Scotland shall one monarch have,"<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>is affirmed to have been literally fulfilled on the +coronation day of James VI. and I. Passing on, +we reach the resplendent Dawyck Woods. Here +are some of the finest larches in the kingdom, +the first to be planted in Britain, having that +honour done them by the great Linnaeus himself, +it is said. Stobo—semi-Norman and Saxon—was +the <i>plebania</i> or mother-kirk of half the county. +Here lies all that is mortal of Robert Hogg, +a talented nephew of James Hogg. He was +the friend and amanuensis of both Scott and Lockhart, +whom he assisted in the <i>Quarterly</i>. Possessed +of a keen literary sense, he would almost certainly +have taken a high place in literature but for the +consumption which cut short his promising career. +(See "Life of Scott," vol. ix). At Happrew, in +Stobo parish, Wallace is said to have suffered +defeat from the English in 1304. One of the most +perfect specimens (recently explored) of a Roman<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[Pg 85]</a></span> +Camp is in the Lyne Valley, to the left, a little +above the Kirk of Lyne. On a height overlooking +the Tarth and Lyne frowns the massive pile of +Drochil, planned by the Red Earl of Morton, who +never lived to occupy it, or to finish it, indeed, +the "Maiden," in 1581, cutting short his pleasures, +his treacheries and hypocrisies. Now we touch +the Black Dwarf's Country—in the Manor Valley, +to the right. Barns Tower, a very complete peel +specimen, stands sentinel at the entrance to this +"sweetest glen of all the South." It is around +Barns that John Buchan's "John Burnet of Barns" +centres. The Black Dwarf's grave is at Manor +Kirk, and the cottage associated with his misanthropic +career is also pointed out. Scott, in 1797, +visited Manor (Hallyards) at his friend Ferguson's, +and foregathered with David Ritchie, the prototype +of one of the least successful and most tedious +of his characters. (See William Chambers's account +of the visit). St. Gordian's Cross, mentioned in +a previous chapter, is further up the valley, where +also are the ruins of Posso, a place-name in the +"Bride of Lammermoor." Presently we come to +Neidpath Castle, dominating Peebles, the key to the +Upper Tweed fastnesses. When or by whom it was +built is unknown. In 1795, it was held by "Old Q," +fourth Duke of Queensberry. Wordsworth's sonnet +on the spoliation of its magnificent woods (an act +done to spite the heir of entail) stigmatises for all +time the memory of one of the worst reprobates +in history.</p> + +<h5>PLATE 16</h5> +<h3>MELROSE AND THE<br />EILDONS FROM BEMERSYDE<br />HILL: SCOTT'S<br />FAVOURITE VIEW</h3> +<h5>FROM A WATER-COLOUR SKETCH</h5> +<h5>PAINTED BY</h5> +<h3>JAMES ORROCK, R.I.</h3> + +<p class="center"> +(<i>See pp. <a href="#Page_89">89</a> and <a href="#Page_123">123</a> </i>)<br /> +</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="Plate_16" id="Plate_16"></a> +<img class="bbox" src="images/plate16.jpg" width="600" height="430" alt="MELROSE AND THE EILDONS FROM BEMERSYDE HILL: SCOTT'S FAVOURITE VIEW" title="MELROSE AND THE EILDONS FROM BEMERSYDE HILL: SCOTT'S FAVOURITE VIEW" /> +</div> + +<p>Both Scott and Campbell have sung of the +unhappy Maid of Neidpath spent with grief and +disease, waiting her lover on the Castle walls, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[Pg 86]</a></span> +beholding him ride past all unconscious of her +identity.</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"He came—he passed—a heedless gaze,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">As o'er some stranger glancing;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Her welcome, spoke in faltering phrase,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Lost in his courser's prancing—<br /></span> +<span class="i0">The Castle arch whose hollow tone<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Returns each whisper spoken,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Could scarcely catch the feeble moan<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Which told her heart was broken."<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>The literary associations of Peebles—a charming +township—are outstanding. William and +Robert Chambers (founders of <i>Chambers's Journal</i>) +were natives. So were Thomas Smibert and John +Veitch, poets and essayists both. Mungo Park (a +Gideon Gray prototype) was the town's surgeon +for a time—an eternal longing for Africa in his +soul. "Meg Dods," the best landlady in fiction, +was one of its heroines. And "Peblis to the +Play," probably by James I., is a Scots classic. +Traquair is poetic ground every foot of it. At +its "bonnie bush" how many singers have caught +inspiration from Crawford of Drumsoy in 1725, +to Principal Shairp in our own day! Shairp's +lyric may well be quoted in full. It is by far the +finest contribution to modern Border minstrelsy. +"Thank ye again for this exquisite song; I would +rather have been the man to write it than Gladstone +in all his greatness and goodness," was the exuberant +"Rab" Brown's compliment to the author:</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Will ye gang wi' me and fare<br /></span> +<span class="i0">To the bush aboon Traquair?<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Owre the high Minchmuir we'll up and awa',<br /></span> +<span class="i0">This bonny simmer noon,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">While the sun shines fair aboon,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And the licht sklents saftly doun on holm and ha'.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[Pg 87]</a></span><br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"And what would you do there,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">At the bush aboon Traquair?<br /></span> +<span class="i0">A lang dreich road, ye had better let it be;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Save some auld skrunts o' birk<br /></span> +<span class="i0">I' the hillside lirk,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">There's nocht i' the warld for man to see.<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"But the blithe lilt o' that air,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">'The Bush aboon Traquair,'<br /></span> +<span class="i0">I need nae mair, it's eneuch for me;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Owre my cradle its sweet chime,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Cam' soughin' frae auld time,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Sae tide what may, I'll awa' and see.<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"And what saw ye there<br /></span> +<span class="i0">At the bush aboon Traquair?<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Or what did ye hear that was worth your heed?<br /></span> +<span class="i0">I heard the cushies croon<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Thro' the gowden afternoon<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And the Quair burn singing doun to the Vale o' Tweed.<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"And birks saw I three or four,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Wi' grey moss bearded owre,—<br /></span> +<span class="i0">The last that are left o' the birken shaw,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Whar mony a simmer e'en<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Fond lovers did convene,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Thae bonny, bonny gloamins that are lang awa'.<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Frae mony a but and ben,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">By muirland, holm, and glen,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">They cam' ane hour to spen' on the greenwood swaird;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">But lang hae lad an' lass I<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Been lying 'neth the grass,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">The green, green grass o' Traquair kirkyard.<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"They were blest beyond compare,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">When they held their trysting there,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Among thae greenest hills shone on by the sun;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And then they wan a rest,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">The lownest and the best,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">I' Traquair kirkyard when a' was dune.<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Now the birks to dust may rot,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Names o' lovers be forgot,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Nae lads and lasses there ony mair convene;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">But the blithe lilt o' yon air<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Keeps the bush aboon Traquair,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And the love that ance was there, aye fresh and green."<br /></span> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[Pg 88]</a></span></div></div> + +<h5>PLATE 17</h5> +<h3>DRYBURGH ABBEY AND<br />SCOTT'S TOMB</h3> +<h5>FROM A WATER-COLOUR SKETCH</h5> +<h5>PAINTED BY</h5> +<h3>JAMES ORROCK, R.I.</h3> + +<p class="center"> +(<i>See pp. <a href="#Page_35">35</a> , <a href="#Page_39">39</a> , <a href="#Page_91">91</a> , <a href="#Page_92">92</a> , <a href="#Page_103">103</a> </i>)<br /> +</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 442px;"> +<a name="Plate_17" id="Plate_17"></a> +<img class="bbox" src="images/plate17.jpg" width="442" height="600" alt="DRYBURGH ABBEY AND SCOTT'S TOMB" title="DRYBURGH ABBEY AND SCOTT'S TOMB" /> +</div> + +<p>Traquair House—possibly Scott's Tully-Veolan, +"pallid, forlorn, stricken all o'er with eld," claims +to be the oldest inhabited house in Scotland. It +certainly looks it. The great gate, flanked with the +huge Bradwardine Bears, has not been opened since +the '45. There seems no reason to question the +legend. It is not so "foolish" as Mr. Lang supposes. +Innerleithen, Scott's "St. Ronan's," is near at hand, +and the peel of Elibank—a mere shell. Harden's +marriage to Muckle-mou'ed Meg Murray was not +quite accounted for in the traditional way, however,—a +choice between the laird's dule-tree and the +laird's unlovely daughter. The legend is not +uncommon to German folk-lore. At Ashestiel, +thrice renowned, Scott spent the happiest years +of his life (1804-1812), writing "Marmion," the +"Lady of the Lake," and the first draft of +"Waverley." In many respects the place is +more important to students of Scott than +Abbotsford itself. Yet for a thousand who rush +to Abbotsford only a very few find their way +up here. Yair, a Pringle house, and Fairnalee, +comfortable little demesnes, lie further down the +Tweed. At the latter, Alison Rutherford wrote +her version of the "Flowers of the Forest"—"I've +seen the smiling of Fortune beguiling." Abbotsford +was Cartley Hole first—not Clarty—which is a +mere vulgar play on the original. From a small +villa about 1811 it has grown to the present noble +pile. After Scott's day, Mr. Hope Scott did much +for the place. But it is of Sir Walter that one +thinks. What a strenuous life was his here! What +love he lavished on the very ground that was dear +to him—in a double sense! And what longing for<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[Pg 89]</a></span> +home during that vain sojourn under Italian +skies! "To Abbotsford; let us to Abbotsford!"—a +desire now echoed on ten thousand tongues +year by year from all ends of the earth. +Behind Abbotsford are the Eildons, the "Delectable +Mountains" of Washington Irving's visit, +"three crests against a saffron sky" always in +vision the wide Border over. Scott said he could +stand on the Eildons and point out forty-three +places famous in war and verse. "Yonder," he +said, "is Lammermoor and Smailholm; and +there you have Galashiels, and Torwoodlee, and +Gala Water; and in that direction you see Teviotdale +and the Braes of Yarrow, and Ettrick stream winding +along like a silver thread to throw itself into the +Tweed. It may be pertinacity, but to my eye +these grey hills, and all this wild Border Country +have beauties peculiar to themselves. When I +have been for some time in the rich scenery about +Edinburgh which is like ornamented garden land, +I begin to wish myself back again among my +own honest grey hills; and if I did not see the +heather at least once a year, I think I should die." +Melrose is the "Kennaquhair" of the "Monastery" +and the "Abbot." Its glory, of course, is its Abbey, +unsurpassed in the beauty of death, but all grace +fled from its environment. Were it possible to +transplant the Abbey together with its rich associations +to the site of the original foundation by the +beautiful bend at Bemersyde, Melrose would sit +enthroned peerless among the shrines of our northern +land. Within Melrose Abbey, near to the High +Altar, the Bruce's heart rests well—its fitful +flutterings o'er. Here, too, lie the brave Earl<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[Pg 90]</a></span> +Douglas, hero of Chevy Chase; Liddesdale's dark +Knight—another Douglas; Evers and Latoun, +the English commanders at Ancrum Moor, that ran +so deadly red with the blood of their countrymen; +and, according to Sir Walter, Michael Scot—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Buried on St. Michael's night,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">When the bell toll'd one, and the moon shone bright,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Whose chamber was dug among the dead,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">When the floor of the chancel was stained red."<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>One is not surprised at Scott's love for Melrose. +As the grandest ecclesiastical ruin in the country, +it must be seen to be understood. Mere description +counts for little in dealing with such a subject. +Every window, arch, cloister, corbel, keystone, +door-head and buttress of this excellent example +of mediæval Gothic is a study in itself—all elaborately +carved, yet no two alike. The sculpture +is unequalled both in symmetry and in variety, +embracing some of the loveliest specimens of floral +tracery and the most quaint and grotesque representations +imaginable. The great east oriel is its +most imposing feature. But the south doorway +and the chaste wheeled window above it are equally +superb. For what is regarded as the finest view +of the building, let us stand for a little at the north-east +corner, not far from the grave of Scott's faithful +factotum, Tom Purdie. Here the <i>coup d'œil</i> is +very striking; and the contour of the ruins is realised +to its full. Or if it be preferred, let us look at the +pile beneath the lee light o' the moon—the +conditions recommended in the "Lay."</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"If thou would'st view fair Melrose aright,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Go visit it by the pale moonlight;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">For the gay beams of lightsome day<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Gild, but to flout, the ruins grey.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_91" id="Page_91">[Pg 91]</a></span><br /></span> +<span class="i0">When the broken arches are black in night,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And each shafted oriel glimmers white,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">When the cold light's uncertain shower<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Streams on the ruined central tower;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">When buttress and buttress, alternately,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Seem framed of ebon and ivory;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">When silver edges the imagery,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And the scrolls that teach thee to live and die;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">When distant Tweed is heard to rave,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And the owlet to hoot o'er the dead man's grave,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Then go—but go alone the while—<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Then view St. David's ruined pile;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And, home returning, soothly swear<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Was never scene so sad and fair!"<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>Three inscriptions—one inside, two in the churchyard, +are worth halting by. "<span class="smcap">Heir lyis the Race +of ye Hovs of Zair</span>," touches many hearts with +its simple pathos. "The Lord is my Light," is +the expressive text (self-chosen) on Sir David +Brewster's tomb—the greatest master of optics in +his day; and the third, covering the remains of +a former Melrose schoolmaster was frequently +on the lips of Scott:</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"The earth goeth on the earth,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Glist'ring like gold,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">The earth goes to the earth<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Sooner than it wold.<br /></span> +<span class="i0">The earth builds on the earth<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Castles and towers,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">The earth says to the earth<br /></span> +<span class="i0">All shall be ours."<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>If half the grace of Melrose is lost by reason +of its environment, the situation of Dryburgh is +queenly enough. It is assuredly the most picturesque +monastic ruin in Great Britain. Scott's is +the all-absorbing name, and as a matter of fact he +would himself have become by inheritance the +laird of Dryburgh, but for the financial folly of a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[Pg 92]</a></span> +spendthrift grand-uncle. "The ancient patrimony," +he tells us, "was sold for a trifle, and my +father, who might have purchased it with ease, +was dissuaded by my grandfather from doing so, +and thus we have nothing left of Dryburgh but +the right of stretching our bones there." So here, +the two Sir Walters, the two Lady Scotts, +and Lockhart, await the breaking light of morn. +Dryburgh, be it noted, is in Berwickshire—in +Mertoun parish, where (at Mertoun House) Scott +wrote the "Eve of St. John." Not far off is +Sandyknowe (not Smailholm, as it is generally +designated) Tower, the scene of the ballad, and the +cradle of Scott's childhood, where there awoke +within him the first real consciousness of life, and +where he had his first impressions of the wondrously +enchanted land that lay within the comparatively +small circle of the Border Country. Ruined Roxburgh, +between Tweed's and Teviot's flow, and the +palatial Floors Castle represent the best of epochs +old and new, and even more than in Scott's halcyon +school days is Kelso the "Queen of the South +Countrie." Coldstream, lying in sylvan loveliness +on the left bank of the Tweed—a noble river here—has +been the scene of many a memorable crossing +from both countries from the time of Edward I. +to the Covenanting struggle. So near the Border, +Coldstream had at one time a considerable notoriety +for its runaway marriages, the most notable of +which was Lord Brougham's in 1819. Within an +easy radius of Coldstream are Wark Castle, the +mere site of it rather—where in 1344 Edward III. +instituted the Order of the Garter; Twizel Bridge, +with its single Gothic arch, cleverly crossed by<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[Pg 93]</a></span> +Surrey and his men (it is the identical arch) at +Flodden, that darkest of all dark fields for Scotland,</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Where shivered was fair Scotland's spear,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And broken was her shield."<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>Of Norham Castle, frowning like Carlisle, to the +North, and set down as it were to over-awe a +kingdom, Scott's description is always the best. +Ladykirk Church was built by James IV. in gratitude +for his escape from drowning while fording the Tweed. +Last of all, we reach Berwick, at one period the +chief seaport in Scotland—a "second Alexandria," +as was said, now the veriest shadow of its former +self. Christianized towards the close of the fourth +century, according to Bede, as a place rich in +churches, monasteries and hospitals, Berwick held +high rank in the ecclesiastical world. Its geographical +position, too, as a frontier town made +it the Strasburg for which contending armies were +continually in conflict. Century after century its +history was one red record of strife and bloodshed. +Its walls, like its old Bridge spanning the Tweed, +were built in Elizabeth's reign, and its Royal +Border Bridge, opened to traffic in 1850, was +happily characterised by Robert Stephenson, its +builder, as the "last act of the Union."<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[Pg 94]</a></span></p> + +<h5>PLATE 18</h5> +<h3>THE REMNANT OF<br />WARK CASTLE</h3> +<h5>FROM A WATER-COLOUR SKETCH</h5> +<h5>PAINTED BY</h5> +<h3>JAMES ORROCK, R.I.</h3> + +<p class="center"> +(<i>See pp. <a href="#Page_39">39</a> and <a href="#Page_92">92</a> </i>)<br /> +</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="Plate_18" id="Plate_18"></a> +<img class="bbox" src="images/plate18.jpg" width="600" height="475" alt="THE REMNANT OF WARK CASTLE" title="THE REMNANT OF WARK CASTLE" /> +</div> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="IV_PLEASANT_TEVIOTDALE" id="IV_PLEASANT_TEVIOTDALE"></a>IV. "PLEASANT TEVIOTDALE"</h2> + +<p>Ettrick and Yarrow between them comprise +most of Selkirkshire. The Teviot and Jed +are the main arteries running through Roxburghshire, +or Teviotdale, as was the ancient +designation, colloquially Tividale and Tibbiedale. +On the source-to-mouth principle—the most natural +and the most instructive—the best approach into +Teviotdale is by way of Langholm, locally <i>the</i> +Langholm, pleasantly situated on the Dumfriesshire +Esk, at the junction of the Ewes and Wauchope +Waters. In the fine pastoral valley of the Ewes—the +Yarrow of Dumfriesshire—we pass several +places of note before striking Teviothead and the +main course of the Teviot. At Wrae, William Knox, +author of "The Lonely Hearth," and writer of +the stanzas on "Mortality," so constantly quoted +by Abraham Lincoln, had his home for a time. +George Gilfillan, no mean judge, characterises him +as the best sacred poet in Scotland. Further on is +the birth-spot of another well-known singer, Henry +Scott Riddell, whose patriotic "Scotland Yet" +has won its way to the ends of the earth, wherever +Scotsmen gather. At Unthank Kirkyard—none +more lonely save St. Mary's on Yarrow, perhaps—we +examine the graves of the hospitable and kindly +Elliots of "Dandie Dinmont" immortality. Mosspaul +Inn, lately restored, is close to the boundary +between the two counties. From the Wisp Hill +(1950 feet) the view on a clear day from Carlisle +in the south to the distant north, is one to be +remembered. The Wordsworths were at Mosspaul +in 1803, and Dorothy's description is still fairly<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[Pg 95]</a></span> +correct: "The scene with its single dwelling, was +melancholy and wild, but not dreary, though there +was no tree nor shrub; the small streamlet +glittered, the hills were populous with sheep; but +the gentle bending of the valley and the correspondent +softness in the forms of the hills were +of themselves enough to delight the eye. The +whole of the Teviot and the pastoral steeps about +Mosspaul pleased us exceedingly."</p> + +<h5>PLATE 19</h5> +<h3>BERWICK-ON-TWEED</h3> +<h5>FROM A WATER-COLOUR SKETCH</h5> +<h5>PAINTED BY</h5> +<h3>JAMES ORROCK, R.I.</h3> + +<p class="center"> +(<i>See pp. <a href="#Page_43">43</a> , <a href="#Page_49">49</a> , <a href="#Page_63">63</a> , <a href="#Page_93">93</a> </i>)<br /> +</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="Plate_19" id="Plate_19"></a> +<img class="bbox" src="images/plate19.jpg" width="600" height="394" alt="BERWICK-ON-TWEED" title="BERWICK-ON-TWEED" /> +</div> + +<p>At Teviothead we touch the Teviot proper. +The upper basin of the Teviot is mainly a barren +vale, flanked by lofty rounded hills. For a greater +distance it is a strip of alluvial plain, screened by +terraced banks clad with the rankest vegetation, +and with long stretches of undulating dale-land, +and overhung at from three to eight miles by terminating +heights, and in its lower reaches it is a richly +variegated champaign country, possessing all the +luxuriance without any of the tameness of a fertile +plain, and stretching away in resulting loveliness +to the picturesque Eildons on the one hand and +the dome-like Cheviots on the other. Teviothead, +formerly Carlanrigg, is full of traditionary lore. +Teviot Stone, extinct now, a landmark for centuries—its +position being marked on some of our earliest +maps—recalls Scott's favourite lines from the +"Lay," imprinted on the Selkirk monument:</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"By Yarrow's streams, still let me stray,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Though none should guide my feeble way;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Still feel the breeze down Ettrick break,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Although it chill my withered cheek;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Still lay my head by Teviot Stone,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Though there, forgotten and alone,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">The Bard may draw his parting groan."<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>Teviothead Churchyard contains the graves of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[Pg 96]</a></span> +Johnie Armstrong of Gilnockie, and his gallants. +James V. (a mere boy-king at the time) never +planned a more despicable or more atrocious deed +than the betrayal and summary execution of this +most picturesque of the freebooters. And posterity +has never forgiven him. Nor can it. Scott's +"Minstrelsy" ballad commemorating the incident +is far and away the most dramatic of its kind, +Johnie's scathing answer to the King being specially +characteristic:</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"To seik het water beneith cauld ice,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Surely it is a greit follie;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">I have asked grace at a graceless face,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">But there is nane for my men and me!"<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>There is a tradition that the trees on which they +were hanged became immediately blasted; and +Scott, in parting with the Wordsworths directed +them to look about for "some old stumps of +trees," but "we could not find them," adds Miss +Wordsworth. Hard by are the graves of Scott +Riddell and his third son, William, a youth of +remarkable promise. Teviothead Cottage, where +Riddell resided till his death in 1870, is passed on +the left. The church in which he preached (he was +in charge of the then preaching station here) is +now the parish school, and his monument, like a +huge candle extinguisher, crowns the neighbouring +Dryden Knowes. Still keeping to the Teviot, now +a fair-sized stream, rich in the variety and beauty +of its scenery—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Pleasant Teviotdale, a land<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Made blithe by plough and harrow"—<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>we pass Gledsnest and Colterscleuch, figuring in the +well-known "Jamie Telfer" ballad; Commonside,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[Pg 97]</a></span> +mentioned in "Kinmont Willie"; Northhouse, +Teindside, Harwood, and Broadhaugh, snug farms +all, till the hamlet of Newmill is reached, the quarrel +scene between the "jovial harper" of the "Lay" +and "Sweet Milk," "Bard of Reull," in which the +latter was slain:</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"On Teviot's side, in fight they stood,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And tuneful hands were stained with blood,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Where still the thorn's white branches wave<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Memorial o'er his rival's grave."<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>Allan Cunningham's version of "Rattlin', Roarin' +Willie" should be read in this connection. Branxholme +(poetically Branksome) is a particularly +interesting portion of the Teviot valley. Its Braes +recall the old ditty:</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"As I came in by Teviot side<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And by the Braes of Branksome,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">There first I saw my bonnie bride,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Young, smiling, sweet, and handsome."<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>And looming up before us is the massive white +pile of Branxholme itself, the master-fort of the +Teviot, and the key of the pass between the Tweed +basin and Merrie Carlisle. The Castle occupies +a strong position, has been much modernised, and +is now a residence for Buccleuch's Chamberlain. +Up to 1756, it was the chief seat of the Buccleuch +family. Branxholme's main glory, however, is +not its past history, or the pomp and circumstance +surrounding it in the hey-day of its power. If +there was "another Yarrow" to Wordsworth, +there is "another Branxholme" to us. It is not +the memory of the fighting barons of Buccleuch, +with their tumultuous raids and unending quarrels, +which draws the pilgrim's feet to Branxholme's<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[Pg 98]</a></span> +Tower, but the memory of events which the imagination +of the Minstrel has conjured up, and which +have made for themselves a local habitation and a +name. For here Scott placed the leading incidents +of the "Lay,"—the first and finest of his Border +efforts:</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Nine-and-twenty knights of fame<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Hung their shields in Branksome Hall,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Nine-and-twenty squires of name<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Brought them their steeds to bower from stall."<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>From Branxholme to the russet-grey Peel of Goldielands +is scarcely two miles. Minus gables or parapet +now, and standing among the haystacks and +buildings of a farm, it is still in tolerable preservation. +Here dwelt amongst others of its old heroes, +"the Laird's Wat, that worthie man," who led the +Scots at the Reidswire in 1575. Not improbably +is Goldielands the peel associated with Willie of +Westburnflat's operations in the "Black Dwarf." +At Goldielands Gate one gets a fine view to the right +of the Borthwick valley,</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Where Bortha hoarse that loads the meads with sand,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Rolls her red tide to Teviot's western stand."<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>And up the Borthwick, a mile or two, on its steep +bank sits Harden, a place of more than ordinary +note to the Scott student. Here Auld Wat, Sir +Walter's grandsire seven times removed, reigned a +king among Border reivers, whose deeds of derring-do +have been long shrined by the balladists, and +graven deep on the tablets of memory. Hawick, +the Glasgow of the Borders, comes next in sight,—where +Slitrig and Teviot meet. An ancient town, +but possessing few relics of antiquity, except St. +Mary's Church, and the Tower Inn, a dwelling of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[Pg 99]</a></span> +the Drumlanrig Douglases, with the mysterious +Moat "where Druid shades still flitted round." +The modernity of the place is, however, lost sight +of annually in the "riding of the marches," a +custom which prevails also in Selkirk and Langholm. +It is the great public festival of the year, and dates +from time immemorial. Its memories are mostly +of Flodden, and the brave stand at Hornshole +in the neighbourhood, the year after. The Flodden +flag, splendidly "bussed," is carried in civic and +cornetal procession with crowds continually singing—as +only Teridom can—the rousing martial air +of "Teribus," the Hawick slogan, which expresses +more than any other the wild and defiant strain +of the war-trump and the battle-shout. Hawick, +including Wilton, has several elegantly architectured +buildings, over a score of Tweed mills +and factories, seventeen churches, and boasts a +population of nearly twenty thousand.</p> + +<p>From Hawick to Kelso the distance is 21 miles, +with a finely undulating road all through. The +railway journey <i>via</i> St. Boswells is about double +the distance. Our way lies through some of the +most storied scenery in the Lowlands. The names +on the map will give us an idea of the exceedingly +romantic character of this second half of the Teviot. +Here we come into touch with such song-haunted +tributaries as the Jed and Oxnam, the Rule and +Kale, and Ale, and with many of the great houses +whose history has contributed more than any other +to the making of the Border Country. The names +of Scott and Ker, Elliot and Douglas, Turnbull and +Riddell are patent to every parish through which +we pass. At Minto, the home of the Elliots and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[Pg 100]</a></span> +seat of the present Indian Viceroy, one is reminded +of the distinguished place which that family has +held both in the stormy and in the more peaceful +times of Border story. Here Jean Elliot wrote the +"Flowers of the Forest," and Thomas Campbell +his "Lochiel's Warning." From Minto Crags, +crowned with Fatlips Castle and Barnhill's Bed, +(729 feet) there is no more pleasing prospect in the +Borderland. The windings of the Teviot are traceable +for miles, the Liddesdale and Dumfriesshire +heights hemming in the view on one side, and the +blue Cheviots on the other. Ruberslaw rises +immediately in front, with Denholm Dene on the +right, and the narrow bed of the "mining Rule" +on the left, while behind to the north are distinctly +seen the three-coned Eildons, Earlston Black Hill, +Scott's Sandyknowe, Hume Castle, and the wavy +line of the Lammermoors. Hassendean (suggesting +"Jock o' Hazeldean") Cavers, a Douglas house, +where the pennon of the great Earl, and the Percy +gauntlets are still shown; Denholm, Leyden's +birthplace, Henlawshiel and Kirkton, scenes in +his boyhood, lie all in the neighbourhood. Dr. +Chalmers was for a time assistant in Cavers +Kirk, and in later life delighted to recall his connection +with the Border district. Adjoining Minto, +Ancrum stands bonnie on Ale Water—a village +of considerable antiquity. Its Cross, dating from +David I.'s time, is one of the best-preserved of the +market-crosses of the Border. Ancrum was the +birthplace of Dr. William Buchan of "Domestic +Medicine" celebrity, and John Livingston, its +minister during the Covenant, was a man of mark +and piety in his day. The place naturally suggests<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_101" id="Page_101">[Pg 101]</a></span> +Ancrum Moor, a mile or two to the north-west, one +of the last great battlefields of the international +struggle. In February, 1544, an English army under +Sir Ralph Evers and Sir Brian Latoun desolated the +Scottish frontier as far north as Melrose, defacing +the Douglas tombs in the abbey. On returning +with their booty towards Jedburgh, they were +overtaken at Ancrum Moor, and severely beaten +by a Scottish force led by the Earl of Angus and +Scott of Buccleuch. In this battle, according to +tradition, fought Maiden Lilliard, a brave Scotswoman +from Maxton, who fell beneath many wounds +and was buried on the spot. Her grave, in the midst +of a thick fir-wood, carries the somewhat doggerel +epitaph:</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Fair Maiden Lilliard<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Lies under this stane;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Little was her stature,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">But muckle was her fame<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Upon the English loons<br /></span> +<span class="i0">She laid monie thumps,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">An' when her legs were cuttit off,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">She fought upon her stumps."<a name="FNanchor_A_3" id="FNanchor_A_3"></a><a href="#Footnote_A_3" class="fnanchor">[A]</a><br /></span> +</div></div> + +<div class="footnote"><p><a name="Footnote_A_3" id="Footnote_A_3"></a><a href="#FNanchor_A_3"><span class="label">[A]</span></a> An attempt has been made to discredit this story by +an appeal to the antiquity of the place-name, which is +admittedly much earlier than Lilliard's day. This, however, +does not dispose of the tradition. The likelihood is that +originally the first line was really "the Fair Maid <i>of</i> +Lilliard."</p></div> + +<p>The monument has been frequently restored. +Lady John Scott made the last repairing touches, +adding the words:</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"To <span class="smcap">a' true scotsmen</span>.<br /></span> +<span class="i0">By me it's been mendit,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">To your care I commend it."<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<h5>PLATE 20</h5> +<h3>HOLLOWS TOWER<br />(SOMETIMES CALLED<br />GILNOCKIE TOWER)</h3> +<h5>FROM A WATER-COLOUR SKETCH</h5> +<h5>PAINTED BY</h5> +<h3>JAMES ORROCK, R.I.</h3> + +<p class="center"> +(<i>See pp. <a href="#Page_72">72</a> and <a href="#Page_96">96</a> </i>)<br /> +</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="Plate_20" id="Plate_20"></a> +<img class="bbox" src="images/plate20.jpg" width="600" height="449" alt="HOLLOWS TOWER (SOMETIMES CALLED GILNOCKIE TOWER)" title="HOLLOWS TOWER (SOMETIMES CALLED GILNOCKIE TOWER)" /> +</div> + +<p>The Jed, joining the Teviot close to Jedfoot +Station, reminds us that the county town of Rox<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[Pg 102]</a></span>burgh—Jedburgh—is +within easy access, and the +fascinating valley of the Jed which Burns so vigorously +extolled. The Jed takes its rise between +Needslaw and Carlintooth on the Liddesdale Border. +Its general course is east and north, and its length +about seventeen miles. The places of chief interest +on its banks are Southdean, where the Scottish +chiefs assembled previous to Otterburn, and where +the poet Thomson spent his boyhood; Old Jedworth, +the original township, a few grassy mounds marking +the spot; Ferniherst Castle, a Ker stronghold; +Lintalee, the site of a Douglas camp described in +Barbour's "Bruce;" the Capon Tree, a thousand +years old, one of the last survivors of "Jedworth's +forest wild and free;" and the Hundalee hiding +caves. The charm of Jedburgh consists in its +old-world character and its semi-Continental touches. +Its fine situation early attracted the notice of the +Scottish Kings, though Bishop Ecfred of Lindisfarne +is believed to have been its true founder. +He could not have chosen a more sweet or appropriate +nook for his little settlement. Nestling in +the quiet valley, and creeping up the ridge of the +Dunion, the song of the river ever in its ears, freshened +by the scent of garden and orchard, and +surrounded by finely-wooded heights, Nature has +been lavish in filling with new adornments, as years +sped by, a spot always bright and fair.</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"O softly Jed! thy sylvan current lead<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Round every hazel copse and smiling mead,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Where lines of firs the glowing landscape screen,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And crown the heights with tufts of deeper green."<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>The modern beauty of the place notwithstanding, +Jedburgh's history has been a singularly troubled one.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[Pg 103]</a></span> +As a frontier town and the first place of importance +north of the Cheviots, it was naturally a scene of +strife and bloodshed. Around it lay the famous +Jed Forest, rivalling that of Ettrick. The inhabitants +were brave warriors, and noted for the skill +with which they wielded the Jeddart staff or Jedwood +axe. Their presence at the Reidswire decided +that skirmish in favour of the Scottish Borderers:</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Then rose the slogan wi' ane shout,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Fye, Tynedale, to it! Jeddart's here."<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>And at Flodden the men from the glens of the +Jed were conspicuous for their heroism. Jedburgh +Abbey is the chief "lion" of the locality. Completer +than Kelso and Dryburgh, and simpler and +more harmonious than Melrose, it stands in the most +delightful of situations, girt about with well-kept +gardens, overlooking the bosky banks of the Jed—a +veritable poem in Nature and Art. Queen +Mary's House (restored) the scene of her all but +mortal illness in 1566 is still existing, and well +worth a visit. The literary associations of the burgh +are more than local. James Thomson was a pupil +at its Grammar School. Burns was made a burgess +during his Border tour in 1787. Scott made his +first appearance as a criminal counsel at Jedburgh, +pleading successfully for his poacher client. The +Wordsworths visited Jedburgh in 1803. Sir David +Brewster and Mary Somerville were natives, and here +the "Scottish Probationer" lived and died. Samuel +Rutherford was born at Crailing, the next parish, +where also David Calderwood, the Kirk historian, was +minister. Cessford Castle, in Eckford parish, was the +residence of the redoubtable "Habbie Ker," ancestor +of the Dukes of Roxburghe. Marlefield, "where<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[Pg 104]</a></span> +Kale wimples clear 'neath the white-blossomed +slaes," is a supposed scene (erroneous) of the "Gentle +Shepherd." Yetholm, on the Bowmont, near the +Great Cheviot, has been the headquarters of Scottish +gypsydom since the 17th century. Opposite Floors +Castle, at the confluence of the Tweed and Teviot +is the green tree-clad mound with a few crumbling +walls, all that remains of the illustrious Castle of +Roxburgh, one of the strongest on the Borders, +the birthplace and abode of kings, and parliaments, +and mints, and so often a bone of bitter contention +between Scots and English. The town itself, the +most important on the Middle Marches, has entirely +disappeared, its site and environs forming now some +of the most fertile fields in the county:</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Roxburgh! how fallen, since first, in Gothic pride,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Thy frowning battlements the war defied,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Called the bold chief to grace thy blazoned halls,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And bade the rivers gird thy solid walls!<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Fallen are thy towers; and where the palace stood,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">In gloomy grandeur waves yon hanging wood.<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Crushed are thy halls, save where the peasant sees<br /></span> +<span class="i0">One moss-clad ruin rise between the trees;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">The still green trees, whose mournful branches wave<br /></span> +<span class="i0">In solemn cadence o'er the hapless grave.<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Proud castle! fancy still beholds thee stand,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">The curb, the guardian, of this Border land;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">As when the signal flame that blazed afar,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And bloody flag, proclaimed impending war,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">While in the lion's place the leopard frowned,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And marshalled armies hemmed thy bulwarks round."<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<h5>PLATE 21</h5> +<h3>GOLDILANDS NEAR<br />HAWICK</h3> +<h5>FROM A WATER-COLOUR SKETCH</h5> +<h5>PAINTED BY</h5> +<h3>JAMES ORROCK, R.I.</h3> + +<p class="center"> +(<i>See pp. <a href="#Page_98">98</a> , <a href="#Page_99">99</a> </i>)<br /> +</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="Plate_21" id="Plate_21"></a> +<img class="bbox" src="images/plate21.jpg" width="600" height="432" alt="GOLDILANDS NEAR HAWICK" title="GOLDILANDS NEAR HAWICK" /> +</div> +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_105" id="Page_105">[Pg 105]</a></span></p> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<h2><a name="V_IN_THE_BALLAD_COUNTRY" id="V_IN_THE_BALLAD_COUNTRY"></a>V. IN THE BALLAD COUNTRY</h2> + +<p>To a shepherd in Canada Dr. Norman Macleod +is said to have remarked, "What a glorious +country this is!" "Ay," said the man, +"it is a very good country." "And such majestic +rivers!" "Oh, ay," was all the reply. "And +such good forests!" "Ay, but there are nae +linties in the woods, and nae braes like Yarrow!" +Of course, the answer was from a purely exile +point of view, but even to those of the Old Country +the name of Yarrow wields the most wondrous +fascination. Like Tweed, Yarrow is known everywhere, +for who has not heard of its "Dowie Dens," +or of its lovers' tragedies? Certainly no stream +has been more besung. The name is redolent of +all that is most pathetic in Border poetry. This +is the centre of the Border ballad country—the +birthplace, or, at all events, the nursing-ground +of a romance than which there is none richer or +more extensive on either side of the Border. The +Yarrow is the Scottish Rhine-land on a small scale, +even more so than the Tweed. Tweedside, indeed, +has not a tithe of Yarrow's ballad wealth, and the +Tweed ballads and folk-lore are absolutely different +in respect both of subject-matter and of manner. +The curious feature about Yarrow is the wonderful +sameness which characterises the whole of its +minstrelsy. For hundreds of years that has been +so. Sadness is the uppermost note that is sounded. +All through we are face to face with a feeling of +dejection as remarkable as it is common. One could +have understood a stray effusion or so couched +in this strain, but for an entire minstrelsy to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">[Pg 106]</a></span> +breathe such a spirit is extraordinary. Why should +Yarrow be the personification, as it were, of a +grief and a melancholy that nothing seems able to +assuage? Is there anything in the scenery to +account for it—anything in the physical conditions +of the glen itself that solves the secret? There is, +and there isn't. To a mere outsider—a mere +summer tripper hurrying through—Yarrow is little +different from others of the southland valleys. +Its main features are identical with those of the +Ettrick, and the Tweed uplands, or with the Ewes +and the Teviot. All of them exhibit the same pastoral +stillness. The same play of light and shade are on +their hills. The same soothing spirit broods over +them. But of Yarrow alone it is the element +of sadness that prevails. To understand this, one +has to <i>live</i> in Yarrow—to come under the influence +of its environment. And whether it be fancy or +not, whether it be the result of one's reading, +and of one's pre-conceived notions of the place, +the Yarrow landscape does lend itself to the realisation +of that feeling which the ballads so well portray. +The configuration of the glen as seen especially +from a little above Yarrow Manse—the "Dowie +Dens" of popular tradition—together with its +climatic conditions, may very easily interpret +for us the spirit of those old singers. Here, if +anywhere in the valley, the answer to the Yarrow +enigma will be found. Professor Veitch thinks +that the whole district affords such an answer: +"Nor will anyone," he says, "who is familiar with +the Vale of Yarrow have had much difficulty in +understanding how it is suited to pathetic verse. +The rough and broken, yet clear, beautiful, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_107" id="Page_107">[Pg 107]</a></span> +wide-spreading stream has no grand cliffs to show; +and it is not surrounded by high and overshadowing +hills. Here and there it flows placidly, reflectively, +in large liquid lapses, through an open valley of +the deepest summer green; still, let us be thankful, +in its upper reaches at least, mantled by nature +and untouched by plough and harrow. There is +a placid monotone about its bare treeless scenery—an +unbroken pastoral stillness on the sloping +braes and hillsides, as they rise, fall, and bend in +a uniformly deep colouring. The silence of the +place is forced upon the attention, deepened even +by the occasional break in the flow of the stream, +or by the bleating of the sheep that, white and +motionless amid the pasture, dot the knowes. +We are attracted by the silence, and we are also +depressed. There is the pleasure of hushed +enjoyment. The spirit of the scene is in those +immortal lines:—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Meek loveliness is round thee spread<br /></span> +<span class="i0">A softness still and holy;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">The grace of Forest charms decayed<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And pastoral melancholy."<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>Those deep green grassy knowes of the valley are +peculiarly susceptible of change. In the morning +with a blue sky, or with breaks of sunlight through +the fleeting clouds, the green hillsides and the +stream smile and gleam in sympathy with the +cheerfulness of heaven. But under a grey sky, or +at the gloaming, the Yarrow wears a peculiarly +wan aspect—a look of sadness. And no valley I +know is more susceptible of sudden change. The +spirit of the air can speedily weave out of the mists +that gather upon the massive hills at the heads of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">[Pg 108]</a></span> +the Megget and the Talla, a wide-spreading web of +greyish cloud—the 'skaum' of the sky—that casts +a gloom over the under green of the hills; and +dims the face of loch and stream in a pensive +shadow. The saddened heart would readily find +there fit analogue and nourishment for its sorrow. +Which is all very true. But, as has been said, +Tweed and Teviot show exactly these conditions, +and what of their minstrelsy remains is not touched +with this strangely morose sense. May not the solution +lie in the very legend of the "Dowie Dens" +itself, and in the remarkable cup-like configuration +of the valley as seen from the point already indicated +and under the wan aspects which are admittedly +a distinctive feature of the Yarrow at all seasons of +the year? Out of this have emerged very probably +the spirit of the balladists and their ballads. +One after another have simply followed suit, and +the likelihood is that had gladness and not gloom +been the burden of some far back strain, we should +not have had the Yarrow we possess to-day. +Men of the most diverse temperaments have come +under the sad spell of the Yarrow. The most +lighthearted sons of song have succumbed to the +general feeling. Wordsworth himself would have +preferred to strike another note, but the enchantment +of the spot held him fast:</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"O that some Minstrel's harp were near<br /></span> +<span class="i0">To utter notes of gladness,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And chase this silence from the air,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">That fills my heart with sadness!"<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>All the verse writers of the last century were mere +continuators of their fellow-bards centuries before. +There are, to be sure, some flippant spirits who<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">[Pg 109]</a></span> +would dare to alter the very atmosphere of Yarrow, +but what a poor attempt at the impossible! Yarrow +must ever abide the embodiment of the most +heart-piercing, and at the same time, the most +winsome melody the world has listened to.</p> + +<p>Popularly speaking, the best of the Yarrow +ballads concerns itself with the famous "Dowie +Dens" tragedy, of which there seems to be some +authentic reference in the Selkirk Presbytery +Record for 1616. It is there narrated how Walter +Scott of Tushielaw made "an informal and inordinate +marriage with Grizell Scott of Thirlestane +without consent of her father." Just three months +later, the same Record contains entry of a summons +to Simeon Scott, of Bonytoun, an adherent of +Thirlestane, and three other Scotts "to compear at +Melrose to hear themselves excommunicated for the +horrible slaughter of Walter Scott." We have here +probably the precise incident on which the unknown +"makar" founded his crude but intensely picturesque +and dramatic lay. How much of womanly +winsomeness and heroism, of knightly dignity and +daring, and the unconquerable strength of love are +portrayed in the following stanzas! There are, +indeed, few ballads in any language that match +its strains:</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"She kiss'd his cheek, she kaim'd his hair,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">As oft she had done before, O;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">She belted him with his noble brand,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And he's away to Yarrow.<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">* * * * * * <br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"'If I see all, ye're nine to ane;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And that's an unequal marrow;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Yet will I fight, while lasts my brand,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">On the bonnie banks of Yarrow.'<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[Pg 110]</a></span><br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">* * * * * * <br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Four has he hurt, and five has slain;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">On the bloody braes of Yarrow,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Till that stubborn knight came him behind,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And ran his body thorough.<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">* * * * * * <br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Yestreen I dream'd a dolefu' dream;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">I fear there will be sorrow!<br /></span> +<span class="i0">I dream'd I pu'd the heather green<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Wi' my true love on Yarrow.<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">* * * * * * <br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"She kiss'd his cheek, she kaimed his hair;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">She search'd his wounds all thorough;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">She kiss'd them till her lips grew red,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">On the dowie houms of Yarrow."<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>A fragment of rare beauty, believed to be based +on the same incident (unlikely however) was one +of Scott's special favourites. Rather does it +shrine a similar tragedy, one of many such which +must have been common enough in those troubled +and lawless times. How melting is the pathos +of the following verses, for instance!</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Willie's rare and Willie's fair,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And Willie's wondrous bonny,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And Willie's hecht to marry me,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Gin e'er he married ony.<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Yestreen I made my bed fu' braid,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">This night I'll make it narrow,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">For a' the livelong winter night,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">I'll lie twin'd of my marrow.<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">She sought him east, she sought him west,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">She sought him braid and narrow;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Syne, in the cleaving of a craig<br /></span> +<span class="i0">She found him drown'd in Yarrow.<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>Somewhat akin is the "Lament of the Border +Widow," located at Henderland, in Meggetdale, +not far from St. Mary's Loch. In the preface to +this ballad in the "Minstrelsy," Scott states that +it was "obtained from recitation in the Forest of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_111" id="Page_111">[Pg 111]</a></span> +Ettrick, and is said to relate to the execution of +Cockburn of Henderland, a Border freebooter, +hanged over the gate of his own tower by James V. +in the course of that memorable expedition in 1529 +which was fatal to Johnie Armstrong, Adam Scott +of Tushielaw, and many other marauders." The +grave of "Perys of Cockburne and hys wyfe Marjory" +on a wooded knoll at Henderland, is still pointed out. +But the historicity of the ballad has been questioned +from the statement (which seems to be correct) +that Cockburn was actually executed at Edinburgh, +instead of at his own home. There is no evidence, +however, to assume that the ballad commemorates +this particular occurrence or that it has any connection +with the grave referred to. For genuine +balladic merit it will be difficult to match:</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">My love he built me a bonny bower,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And clad it a' wi' lilye flower,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">A brawer bower ye ne'er did see<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Than my true love he built for me.<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">There came a man, by middle day<br /></span> +<span class="i0">He spied his sport, and went away,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And brought the King that very night,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Who brake my bower and slew my knight.<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">He slew my knight, to me sae dear;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">He slew my knight, and poin'd his gear;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">My servants all for life did flee,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And left me in extremitie.<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">I sewed his sheet, making my mane;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">I watched the corpse myself alane;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">I watch'd his body night and day;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">No living creature came that way.<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">I took his body on my back,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And whiles I gaed, and whiles I sat;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">I digg'd a grave, and laid him in,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And happ'd him with the sod sae green.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">[Pg 112]</a></span><br /></span> +<span class="i0">But think na ye my heart was sair,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">When I laid the moul' on his yellow hair;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">O think na ye my heart was wae,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">When I turned about away to gae?<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">Nae living man I'll love again,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Since that my lovely knight is slain,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Wi ae lock of his yellow hair,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">I'll chain my heart for evermair.<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<h5>PLATE 22</h5> +<h3>"HE PASS'D WHERE<br />NEWARK'S STATELY<br />TOWER LOOKS OUT<br />FROM YARROW'S<br />BIRCHEN BOWER"</h3> +<h5>FROM A WATER-COLOUR SKETCH</h5> +<h5>PAINTED BY</h5> +<h3>JAMES ORROCK, R.I.</h3> + +<p class="center"> +(<i>See pp. <a href="#Page_116">116</a> </i>)<br /> +</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="Plate_22" id="Plate_22"></a> +<img class="bbox" src="images/plate22.jpg" width="600" height="432" alt=""HE PASS'D WHERE NEWARK'S STATELY TOWER LOOKS OUT FROM YARROW'S BIRCHEN BOWER"" +title=""HE PASS'D WHERE NEWARK'S STATELY TOWER LOOKS OUT FROM YARROW'S BIRCHEN BOWER"" /> +</div> + +<p>One might speak, too, of the "Douglas Tragedy," +the scene of which is laid in the Douglas Glen, in the +heart of the quiet hills forming the watershed betwixt +Tweed and Yarrow. Here lived the "Good Sir +James"—Bruce's right-hand man, who strove to +carry his heart to the Holy Land. It was from this +Tower at Blackhouse that Margaret the Fair was +carried off by her lover, and about a mile further up +on the hillside the seven stones marking the spot +where Lord William alighted and slew the Lady's +seven brothers in full pursuit of the pair, are objects +of curious interest. This ballad, it is interesting +to note, is one widely diffused throughout Europe, +being specially rich in Danish, Icelandic, Norse, and +Swedish collections. Indeed, almost all the Yarrow +ballads—and many others—are common to Continental +<i>volks-lieder</i>, and are found in extraordinary +profusion from Iceland to the Peloponesus. Here +is evidence, by no means slight, of the theory that +ballads originate from a common stock, and that +in the course of ages they have simply become +transplanted and localized. Then the Yarrow +valley contains the scene of the "Song of the +Outlaw Murray"—a distinctively Border production +(74 verses in all) composed during the reign of +James V. Murray divides with Johnie Armstrong +the honour of being the Border Robin Hood,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_113" id="Page_113">[Pg 113]</a></span> +but to Murray a very different treatment was +meted out. The Outlaw's lands at Hangingshaw +and elsewhere were his own, though he held them +minus a title. James fumed at this, and determined +to bring the Forest chief to submission:</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"The King of Scotland sent me here,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And, gude Outlaw, I am sent to thee;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">I wad wot of how ye hald your lands,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">O man, wha may thy master be?"<br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Thir lands are <span class="smcap">MINE</span>! the Outlaw said:<br /></span> +<span class="i0">I ken nae King in Christendie;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Frae England I this Forest won<br /></span> +<span class="i0">When the King and his knights were not to see."<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>Upon which the King's Commissioner assures the +Outlaw that it will be worse for him if he fails to +give heed to the royal desire:</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Gif ye refuse to do this<br /></span> +<span class="i0">He'll compass baith thy lands and thee;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">He hath vow'd to cast thy castle down<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And mak a widow of thy gay lady."<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>But Murray is defiant, and James is equally resolved +to crush him. Friends are pressed into the Outlaw's +service, and very soon he has a goodly number +of troopers all ready to render service in the hour +of their kinsman's need, well knowing that in aiding +him they would be doing the best thing for themselves, +as "landless men they a' wad be" if the +King got his own way in Ettrick Forest. But, +like all good ballads, this, too, ends happily. A +compromise is effected, by which the Outlaw +obtains the post he had long coveted—Sheriff +of the Forest:</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"He was made Sheriff of Ettrick Forest,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Surely while upward grows the tree;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And if he was na traitour to the King,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Forfaulted he should never be.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">[Pg 114]</a></span><br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Wha ever heard, in ony times,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Siccan an Outlaw in his degree<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Sic favour get before a King<br /></span> +<span class="i0">As the Outlaw Murray of the Forest free?"<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>Of right "Tamlany"—by far the finest of the +Border fairy ballads—belongs more to Ettrick than +to Yarrow. The scene is laid in Carterhaugh, at +the confluence of the two streams, two miles +above Selkirk. The ballad (24 stanzas) is too long +to quote, but may be read in all good collections. +For the same reason also we must pass over the +"Battle of Philiphaugh," commemorating Leslie's +victory over Montrose in 1645; and the "Gay +Goss-Hawk," the dramatic ending of which is laid +at St. Mary's Kirk, high upon the hillside overlooking +the waters of the Loch. Nothing is left +now save the site, and a half-deserted burying-ground +where "Covenanter and Catholic, Scotts, and Kers +and Pringles—all sorts and conditions of men—sleep +their long sleep at peace together." Among +the shrines of Yarrowdale, this is not the least +notable. Like the grave of Keats outside the +walls of Rome, as some one has said, "it would +almost make one in love with death to be buried +in so sweet a spot among the heather and brackens, +and the sighing of the solitary mountain ash." +St. Mary's Loch lies shimmering at our feet. Scott's +"Marmion" picture is still wonderfully correct:</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Oft in my mind such thoughts awake,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">By lone Saint Mary's silent lake;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Thou know'st it well—nor fen, nor sedge<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Pollute the pure lake's crystal edge;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Abrupt and sheer, the mountains sink<br /></span> +<span class="i0">At once upon the level brink;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And just a trace of silver sand<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Marks where the water meets the land.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">[Pg 115]</a></span><br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">Far in the mirror, bright and blue,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Each hill's huge outline you may view;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Shaggy with heath, but lonely bare,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Nor tree, nor bush, nor brake is there,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Save where, of land, yon slender line<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Bears thwart the lake the scatter'd pine,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Yet even this nakedness has power,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And aids the feeling of the hour."<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>All this delightsome countryside is Hogg-land +too, let us remember, as well as Scott-land. For +here, in ballad-haunted Yarrow, the immortal +James spent the best years of his life, failing +so tantalizingly as farmer, but as poet, "King +of the Mountain and Fairy school," dreaming +so well of that most bewitching of all his conceptions—"Bonnie +Kilmeny." Yonder, overlooking +Tibbie Shiel's "cosy beild"—a howff of +the Noctes coterie—stands the solitary white figure +of the beloved Shepherd as Christopher North's +prophetic soul felt that it must be some day. Hogg +was born in the neighbouring Ettrick valley—in +1770 presumably. His birth-cottage is extinct +now, but a handsome memorial marks the spot. +Most of his life, as has been said, was passed in the +sister vale, first at Blackhouse, then at Mount +Benger, and at Altrive (now Eldinhope), where he +died three years after his truest of friends—Sir +Walter. The Ettrick homeland guards his dust. Close +by is the resting-place of Thomas Boston, that +earlier "Ettrick Shepherd" whose "Fourfold State" +and "Crook in the Lot" are not yet forgotten. +In the sequestered Yarrow churchyard sleeps +Scott's maternal great-grandfather, John Rutherford, +who was minister of the parish from 1691 to +1710. Scott spoke of Yarrow as the "shrine of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">[Pg 116]</a></span> +his ancestors," and himself, like Hogg, and Willie +Laidlaw, frequently worshipped within its old +grey walls. Further down the stream, the "shattered +front of Newark's towers" reminds us that +here Scott placed the recital of the "Lay." He +would fain have fitted up the ancient fabric as a +residence, had it been possible. Almost opposite, +the birthplace of Mungo Park, the first of the +knight-errantry of Africa, attracts attention, and +a mile or two nearer Selkirk, are Philiphaugh, and +"sweet Bowhill," the two finest domains in the +Forest. The Covenanters' Monument within Philiphaugh +grounds is worthy of notice, and on the +Ettrick side, Kirkhope and Oakwood, both in +fairly good repair, are excellent specimens of the +peel period. At Selkirk, the capital of Ettrickdale, +Scott's statue as "the Shirra"—a most +admirable representation—looks out at scenes upon +which his eyes in life must often have feasted. +Here we read the lines that express his heart's +deep love for a district interwoven so closely with +all the years of his working life:</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"By Yarrow's streams still let me stray,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Though none should guide my feeble way;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Still feel the breeze down Ettrick break,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Although it chill my wither'd cheek."<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<h5>PLATE 23</h5> +<h3>"VIEW OF NEW ABBEY<br />AND CRIFFEL"</h3> +<h5>FROM A WATER-COLOUR SKETCH</h5> +<h5>PAINTED BY</h5> +<h3>JAMES ORROCK, R.I.</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="Plate_23" id="Plate_23"></a> +<img class="bbox" src="images/plate23.jpg" width="600" height="448" alt="VIEW OF NEW ABBEY AND CRIFFEL" title="VIEW OF NEW ABBEY AND CRIFFEL" /> +</div> +<p> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">[Pg 117]</a></span> +</p> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="VI_THE_LEADER_VALLEY" id="VI_THE_LEADER_VALLEY"></a>VI. THE LEADER VALLEY.</h2> + +<p>To the present writer, the valley of the Leader, +or Lauderdale, has attractions and memories +that are second to none in the Border. +"Here, first,"—to use Hogg's lines—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"He saw the rising morn,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Here, first, his infant mind unfurled<br /></span> +<span class="i0">To ween the spot where he was born<br /></span> +<span class="i0">The very centre of the world."<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>Lauderdale constitutes one of the "three parts" +into which Berwickshire, like Ancient Gaul, is +divided. The others are the Merse, (<i>i.e.</i>, March-Land)—often +a distinctive designation for the +entire county, but applicable especially to the low-lying +lands beside the Tweed; Lammermoor, so +named from the Lammermoor Hills ranging across +the county from Soutra Edge and Lammer Law +in the extreme north-west, to the coastline at Fast +Castle and St. Abbs. Lauderdale, the westernmost +division, running due north and south, embraces +simply the basin of the Leader and its tributaries +so far as the basin is in Berwickshire. Its total +length is not more than twenty-one miles, from +Kelphope Burn, the real origin of the Leader, to +Leaderfoot, about two miles below Melrose, where +it meets the waters of the Tweed. Leaderdale +and Lauderdale are but varieties of the name. +A little off the beaten track, perhaps, it can be +easily reached by rail to St. Boswells and Earlston, +or to Lauder itself, from Fountainhall, on the +Waverley Route, by the light railway recently +opened. Its upper course among the Lammermoors +is through bleak, monotonous hill scenery; but<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">[Pg 118]</a></span> +the middle and lower reaches pass into a fine series +of landscapes—the "Leader Haughs" of many an +olden strain—- flanked by graceful green hills and +swells, and plains, that are hardly surpassed in +Scotland for agricultural wealth and beauty. Of +Berwickshire generally, it may be said that it has +few industries and no mineral wealth to speak of. +Its business is chiefly in one department—agriculture. +For that the soil is particularly well adapted. +Especially is this true of the Merse and Lauderdale +districts, where the farmers take a high place in +agricultural affairs, many of them being recognised +experts and authorities on the subject. Thousands +of acres on the once bald and featureless hill-lands +of Lauderdale have been brought within the benign +influence of plough and harrow, and are choice +ornaments in a county famous for its agricultural +triumphs all the world over. But Romance, +rather than agriculture, is the true glory of +the Leader Valley. It will be difficult to find a +locality—Yarrow excepted—which is more under +the spell of the past. May not Lauderdale, indeed, +be claimed as the very birthplace of Scottish melody +itself? Robert Chambers styled it "the Arcadia +of Scotland," and was not Thomas of Ercildoune +the "day-starre of Scottish poetry?"</p> + +<p>This, too, is the country of St. Cuthbert. At +Channelkirk, he was probably born. At all events +the first light of history falls upon him here, as a +shepherd lad, watching his flocks by the Leader, +and striving to think out the deep things of the +divine life, with the most ardent longings in his +soul after it. The traditional meadow, whence +he beheld the vision which changed his career,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_119" id="Page_119">[Pg 119]</a></span> +is still pointed out, and his reputed birthplace at +Cuddy Ha' keeps his memory green amongst those +sweet refreshing solitudes. It is interesting to +note Berwickshire's connection with the three most +famous Borderers of history—St. Cuthbert, Thomas +the Rhymer, and Walter Scott, of Merse extraction, +whose dust Berwickshire holds as its most sacred +trust.</p> + +<p>Lauder and Earlston are the only places of +importance in the valley. The former—it is, by +the way, the only royal burgh in the shire—boasts +a considerable antiquity. It is still a quaint-looking +but clean town, with long straggling street, +and one or two buildings—the parish kirk and +Tolbooth—offering decidedly Continental suggestions. +Lauder's old-worldness and isolation are at +an end, however. After much agitation, a railway-line +now connects it with the rest of the world, and +already the signs of a new life are apparent. Within +a very few years the inevitable changes will be sure +to have passed over this once quiet and exclusive +little town. It is the "Maitland blude," which +dominates Lauder, and Thirlestane Castle, built, or +renovated rather, in the time of Charles II., is still +a place to see. Amongst Scottish families, the +Maitlands were first in place and power. Not a few +of them were greatly distinguished as statesmen +and men of letters—the blind poet and ballad-collector, +Sir Richard; William Maitland, the celebrated +Secretary Lethington; Chancellor Maitland, +author of the satirical ballad, "Against Sklanderous +Tongues;" Thomas, and Mary, Latin versifiers +both; and the infamous "Cabal" Duke, the only +bearer of the title. Within the well-kept policies<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">[Pg 120]</a></span> +of Thirlestane, tradition has located the site of the +historic Lauder Bridge, so fatal to James III.'s +favourites in 1482. Dr. John Wilson, of Bombay, +Orientalist and scholar, was born at Lauder in +1804, and James Guthrie, the first Scottish martyr +after the Reformation, was its minister for a short +period.</p> + +<p>Earlston is seven miles down stream from +Lauder. Before reaching the town of the Rhymer +some spots of interest call for notice. At St. +Leonard's—a little way out—a hospital off-shoot +of Dryburgh, lived Burne the Violer, the last of the +minstrel fraternity, a supposed prototype of the +Minstrel of the "Lay," and author of the fine +pastoral poem, "Leader Haughs and Yarrow," the +verse-model for Wordsworth's "Three Yarrows." +One verse was a great favourite with Scott and +Carlyle, both of whom were known to repeat it +frequently:—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"But Minstrel Burne can not assuage<br /></span> +<span class="i0">His grief, while life endureth,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">To see the changes of this age,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Which fleeting time procureth;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">For mony a place stands in hard case,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Where blythe folk ken'd nae sorrow,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">With Humes that dwelt on Leader-side,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And Scotts that dwelt on Yarrow."<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>Blainslie, famous for its oats ("There's corn enough +in the Blainslies"), and Whitslaid Tower, a long ago +holding of the Lauder family, are passed a mile or +two on. At Birkhill and Birkenside the road forks +leftwards to Legerwood, where Grizel Cochrane +of Ochiltree (afterwards Mrs. Ker of Morriston), +heroine of the stirring mail-bag adventure narrated +in the "Border Tales," sleeps in its lately restored<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">[Pg 121]</a></span> +kirk chancel. Chapel, and Carolside with a fine +deer park, and most charming of country residences—at +the latter of which Kinglake wrote part of his +"Crimean War"—sit snugly to the right, in the +bosky glen below.</p> + +<h5>PLATE 24</h5> +<h3>CRIFFEL AND LOCH<br />KINDAR</h3> +<h5>FROM A WATER-COLOUR SKETCH</h5> +<h5>PAINTED BY</h5> +<h3>JAMES ORROCK, R.I.</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="Plate_24" id="Plate_24"></a> +<img class="bbox" src="images/plate24.jpg" width="600" height="441" alt="CRIFFEL AND LOCH KINDAR" title="CRIFFEL AND LOCH KINDAR" /> +</div> + +<p>Earlston, the Ercildoune of olden time—name +much better suited to the quiet beauty of its charming +situation—has no unimportant place both in +Scottish history and romance. It has been honoured +by many royal visits. Here David the Sair Sanct +subscribed the Foundation Charter of Melrose +Abbey in 1136, and his son the Confirmatory +Charter in 1143. Other royal visitors followed; +there James IV. encamped for a night on his +way from Edinburgh to Flodden; Queen Mary +made a brief stay at Cowdenknowes as she passed +from Craigmillar to Jedburgh; and lastly came +Prince Charlie (unwelcome) on his march to Berwick-on-Tweed. +But above all it is renowned as having +been the residence (and birthplace probably) of +Thomas the Rhymer, or True Thomas, or simply, +as literary history prefers to call him, Thomas of +Ercildoune. The Rhymer's Tower, associated with +this remarkable personage, stands close to the +Leader. Only a mere ivy-clad fragment remains +(some 30 feet in height), but the memories of +the place stretch back to more than six centuries, +when Thomas was at the height of his fame as his +country's great soothsayer and bard—the <i>vates +sacer</i> of the people. His rhymes are still quoted, +and many of them have been realised in a manner +which Thomas himself could scarcely have anticipated. +Scott makes him the author of the metrical +romance "Sir Tristrem," published from the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">[Pg 122]</a></span> +Auchinleck <i>MS.</i> in 1804, but the Rhymer is unlikely +to have been the original compiler. With his +Fairyland adventures and return to that mysterious +region, everybody is familiar. A quaint +stone in the church wall carries the inscription:</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">Auld Rymr's Race<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Lyes in this place,<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>and the probability is that Thomas sleeps somewhere +amidst its dark dust, unless, indeed, he be +still spell-bound in some as yet undiscovered cavern +underneath the Eildons, waiting with Arthur, and +Merlin, the blast of that irresistible horn which is +to "peal their proud march from Fairyland."</p> + +<p>Mellerstain in Earlston Parish, is the burial-place +of Grisell Baillie, the Polwarth heroine and +songstress, and author of the plaintive "Werena My +Heart Licht I wad Dee." Cowdenknowes, "where +Homes had ance commanding," one of the really +classical names in Border minstrelsy is the scene +of that sweetest of love lyrics, the "Broom o' the +Cowdenknowes":—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"How blithe, ilk morn, was I to see<br /></span> +<span class="i0">My swain come o'er the hill!<br /></span> +<span class="i0">He skipt the burn and flew to me:<br /></span> +<span class="i0">I met him with good-will."<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>Sandyknowe, Scott's cradling-ground in romance, +and Bemersyde, one of the oldest inhabited houses +in the Tweed Valley (partly peel), still evidencing +the Rhymer's couplet:—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Tyde what may betyde,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Haig shall be Haig of Bemersyde,—"<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>are both in the near neighbourhood.</p> + +<p>A charming bit of country road lies between +Earlston and Dryburgh, passing Redpath, the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">[Pg 123]</a></span> +Park, Gladswood, and round by Bemersyde Hill, +from which Scott had his favourite view of the +Tweed—the "beautiful bend" shrining the site +of the original Melrose, and the graceful Eildons—and +by which his funeral procession wended its +mournful way just seventy-four years ago. Half-way +between Earlston and Melrose (by road 4½ +miles), and close to</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Drygrange with the milk-white yowes,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Twixt Tweed and Leader standing,"<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>the latter stream blends its waters with those of +the Tweed, where the foliage is ever at its thickest +and greenest; and looking up the glen towards +Newstead and Melrose, another vision of rare +beauty meets the eye. Framed in the tall piers +of the railway viaduct (150 feet high)—not at all a +disfigurement—the gracefully-bending Tweed, no +more fair than here, with the smoke rising above +the Abbeyed town, Eildon in the foreground, and +the blue barrier of the hills beyond, make up a +picture such as may come to us in dreams.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">[Pg 124]</a></span></p> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> +<h2><a name="VII_LIDDESDALE" id="VII_LIDDESDALE"></a>VII. LIDDESDALE</h2> + +<p class="center"><i>From the Author's chapter in Cassell's "British Isles."</i> +(<i>By permission.</i>)</p> + +<p>The Liddel rises in the Cheviot range, close to +Jedhead, at an altitude of six hundred and +fifty feet above sea level, and after a course +of seven-and-twenty miles, with a fall of five hundred +and forty-five feet, it joins the Esk at the Moat of +Liddel, below Canonbie, near the famous Netherby +Hall, twelve miles north of Carlisle and about +eight from Langholm. It is fed by a score of +affluents, of which the chief are the Hermitage +and Kershope Waters, the latter constituting for +nine miles or so the immediate boundary between +the two countries. From its geographical position +as cut off from the main division of the county, +Liddesdale has little in common with the valleys +of the Tweed and Teviot. A Liddesdaler, for +instance, seldom crosses over to Tweedside, nor can +a Tweedsider be said to have other than a comparatively +slight acquaintanceship with his southern +neighbour of the shire. Indeed, Liddesdale has +been described as belonging in some respects more +to England than to Scotland, and in a sense, it may +be said to be the very centre of the Border Country +itself.</p> + +<h5>PLATE 25</h5> +<h3>CAERLAVEROCK CASTLE</h3> +<h5>FROM A WATER-COLOUR SKETCH</h5> +<h5>PAINTED BY</h5> +<h3>JAMES ORROCK, R.I.</h3> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;"> +<a name="Plate_25" id="Plate_25"></a> +<img class="bbox" src="images/plate25.jpg" width="600" height="424" alt="CAERLAVEROCK CASTLE" title="CAERLAVEROCK CASTLE" /> +</div> + +<p>If now-a-days one may roam through Liddesdale +with some degree of comfort, it was a very +different matter for Scott and Shortreed little more +than a hundred years since. They knew scarcely +anything of the district, which lay to them, as was +said, "like some unkenned-of isle ayont New +Holland." But Scott was bent on his Minstrelsy<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">[Pg 125]</a></span> +ballad-huntings. And it was the very inaccessibility +of the Liddel glens which inspired him with the +hope of treasure. For seven autumns in succession +they "raided" Liddesdale, as Scott phrased it, +and, as he anticipated, some of the finest specimens +in the Minstrelsy were the outcome of these excursions. +Evidence of the utter solitariness and +roadlessness of the region is found in the fact that +no wheeled vehicle had been seen in Liddesdale +till the advent of Scott's gig about 1798. Nor was +there a single inn or public-house to be met with +in the whole valley. Lockhart describes how the +travellers passed "from the shepherd's hut to the +minister's manse, and again from the cheerful +hospitality of the manse to the rough and jolly +welcome of the homestead, gathering wherever +they went songs and tunes and occasionally more +tangible relics of antiquity." But a hundred years +have wrought wondrous transformation on the +wild wastes of the Liddel. The "impenetrable +savage land" of Scott's day, trackless and bridgeless, +is now singularly well opened up to civilisation +and the modern tripper. The Waverley Route +of the North British Railway passes down the +valley within a few miles of its best-known landmarks. +The Road Committees are careful as to +their duty, and a well-developed series of coaching +tours has proved exceedingly popular. From a +miserable expanse of bleak moors and quaking +moss-hags, the greater portion of lower Liddesdale, +at least, has passed into a picturesque combination +of moor and woodland with rich pastoral +holms and fields in the highest state of cultivation.</p> + +<p>But the main glory of Liddesdale is the romance<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">[Pg 126]</a></span> +that hangs over it. There is probably no parish +in Scotland—for be it remembered that Liddesdale +is virtually one parish—which could show such an +extraordinary number of peel-houses to its credit. +Their ruins, or where these have disappeared, the +sites are pointed out with surprising frequency. +A distinctively Border district, this was to be +expected, and the like is true of the English side +also. A Liddesdale Keep, still in excellent preservation—"four-square +to all the winds that +blow"—and far and away the strongest and the +most massive pile on the Border frontier is Hermitage, +in the pretty vale of that name, within easy +reach from Steele Road or Riccarton stations, three +and four miles respectively. Built by the Comyns +in the thirteenth century, it passed to the Soulises, +the Angus Douglases, to "Bell-the-Cat" himself, +the Hepburn Bothwells, and the "bold Buccleuch," +whose successor still holds it. Legend may almost +be said to be indigenous to the soil of Hermitage, +and one wonders not that Scott found his happy +hunting-ground here. The youngest child will +tell us about that "Ogre" Soulis, who was so +hated by his vassals for his awful oppression of +them, that at last they boiled him alive—horrible +vengeance—on the Nine-Stane Rig, a Druidic +circle near by. In part confirmation of the tragedy +it is asserted that the actual cauldron may still be +seen at Dalkeith Palace. Scott was constantly +quoting the verses from Leyden's ballad:</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"On a circle of stones they placed the pot,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">On a circle of stones but barely nine;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">They heated it red and fiery hot<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Till the burnish'd brass did glimmer and shine<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">[Pg 127]</a></span><br /></span> +</div><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">They rolled him up in a sheet of lead,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">A sheet of lead for a funeral pall;<br /></span> +<span class="i0">They plunged him in the cauldron red,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">And melted him, lead, and bones, and all."<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>The Nine-Stane Rig is the scene also of the +fragmentary "Barthram's Dirge"—a clever Surtees +forgery undetected by Scott. Leyden's second +Hermitage ballad—two of the best in the "Minstrelsy"—deals +with the Cout or Chief of Keeldar, +in Northumberland, done to death by the "Ogre" +in the Cout's Pool close to the Castle. In the +little God's-acre at Hermitage the Cout's grave is +pointed out (Keeldar also shows what purports to +be the Cout's resting-place). Memories of Mary +and Bothwell come to us, too, at Hermitage. Here +the wounded Warden of the Marches was visited +by the infatuated Queen, who rode over from +Jedburgh to see him, returning the same day—a +rough roundabout of fifty miles—which all but +cost her life. Dalhousie's Dungeon, in the north-east +tower, recalls the tragic end of one of the +bravest and best men of his time—Sir Alexander +Ramsay, of Dalhousie, who was starved to death +at the instance of Liddesdale's Black Knight, +here anything but the "Flower of Chivalry." One +may wander all over the Hermitage and Liddel +valleys without ever being free from the romance-feeling +which haunts them. Relics of the Roman +occupation are in abundance on every hillside—</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Many a cairn's grey pyramid,<br /></span> +<span class="i0">Where urns of mighty chiefs lie hid."<br /></span> +</div></div> + +<p>This was the homeland of the Elliots, "lions +of Liddesdale," and the sturdy Armstrongs, of the +crafty Nixons and Croziers—"thieves all":</p> + +<div class="poem"><div class="stanza"> +<span class="i0">"Fierce as the wolf they rushed to seize their prey:<br /></span> +<span class="i0">The day was all their night, the night their day."<br /></span> +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">[Pg 128]</a></span></div></div> + +<p>It is to be regretted that so few of the dozens +of clan-strengths which at one time studded the +district are any longer in evidence. Hartsgarth, +Roan, (so named from the French Rouen), Redheugh, +Mangerton—"Kinmont Willie's" Keep—Syde—"He +is weel kenned Jock o' the Syde," +Copshaw Park—the abode of "little Jock Elliot"—Westburnflat—an +"Old Mortality" name—Whithaugh, +Clintwood, Hillhouse, Peel, and Thorlieshope, +have mostly all disappeared since Scott's day. A +generation more utilitarian in its tastes has arisen, +and the stones taken to set up dykes and fill drains. +Near the junction of the Liddel and Hermitage +stood the strongly posted Castle of the "Lords of +Lydal," and the important township of Castleton—not +unlike the Roxburghs between Tweed and +Teviot; and, like them also, both have long since +passed from the things that are. Only the worn +pedestal of its "mercat-cross" and a lone kirkyard +have been left to tell the tale. Two miles farther +down is the village of Newcastleton, formerly +Copshawholm, planned by the "good Duke Henry" +in 1793, a rising summer resort with a population +of about a thousand.</p> + +<p>We cannot quit Liddesdale without recalling that +this is "Dandie Dinmont's" Country. In writing +"Guy Mannering" Scott drew largely from his +earlier experiences amongst the honest-souled store-farmers +and poetry-loving peasants of Liddelside. +At Millburn, on the Hermitage, he enjoyed the +hospitality of kindly Willie Elliot, who stood for +the "great original" of "Dandie Dinmont."</p> + +<h2><a name="THE_END" id="THE_END"></a>THE END.</h2> + +<hr style="width: 65%;" /> + +<p class="center">PRINTED AND BOUND BY PERCY LUND, HUMPHRIES AND CO., LTD., THE +COUNTRY PRESS, BRADFORD; AND 3, AMEN CORNER, LONDON, E.C.</p> + +<p> </p> +<p> </p> +<div class="tranotes"> +<span class="smcap">Transcriber's Note:</span><br /><br /> +Minor spelling and typographical errors have been corrected without +note. 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