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diff --git a/31627.txt b/31627.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..865c45b --- /dev/null +++ b/31627.txt @@ -0,0 +1,8271 @@ +The Project Gutenberg eBook, Volcanoes: Past and Present, by Edward Hull + + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + + + + +Title: Volcanoes: Past and Present + + +Author: Edward Hull + + + +Release Date: March 13, 2010 [eBook #31627] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-646-US (US-ASCII) + + +***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK VOLCANOES: PAST AND PRESENT*** + + +E-text prepared by Steven Gibbs, Stephen H. Sentoff, and the Project +Gutenberg Online Distributed Proofreading Team (http://www.pgdp.net) + + + +Note: Project Gutenberg also has an HTML version of this + file which includes the original illustrations. + See 31627-h.htm or 31627-h.zip: + (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/31627/31627-h/31627-h.htm) + or + (http://www.gutenberg.org/files/31627/31627-h.zip) + + + + + +The Contemporary Science Series. + +Edited by Havelock Ellis. + +VOLCANOES: PAST AND PRESENT. + + +[Illustration: Fig. 1.--Eruption of Vesuvius, 1872-1873] + + +VOLCANOES: PAST AND PRESENT. + +by + +EDWARD HULL, M.A., LL.D., F.R.S. +Examiner in Geology to the University of London. + +With 41 Illustrations and 4 Plates of Rock-Sections. + + + + + + + +London: +Walter Scott, Limited, +24, Warwick Lane, Paternoster Row. +1892. + + + + +_BY THE SAME AUTHOR._ + + The Coal-fields of Great Britain: their History, Structure, and + Resources. 4th edit. (1881.) E. Stanford. + + The Physical History of the British Isles. With a Dissertation on + the Origin of Western Europe and of the Atlantic Ocean. (1882.) E. + Stanford. + + The Physical Geology and Geography of Ireland. 2nd edit. (1891.) + E. Stanford. + + Treatise on the Building and Ornamental Stones of Great Britain + and Foreign Countries. (1872.) Macmillan and Co. + + Memoir on the Physical Geology and Geography of Arabia-Petraea, + Palestine, and adjoining Districts. (1886.) Committee of the + Palestine Exploration Fund. + + Mount Seir, Sinai, and Western Palestine. Being a Narrative of a + Scientific Expedition, 1883-84. (1885.) Committee of the Palestine + Exploration Fund. + + Text-book of Physiography. (1888.) C. W. Deacon and Co. + + Sketch of Geological History. (1887.) C. W. Deacon and Co. + + + + +PREFACE. + + +It has not been my object to present in the following pages even an +approximately complete description of the volcanic and seismic phenomena +of the globe; such an undertaking would involve an amount of labour +which few would be bold enough to attempt; nor would it be compatible +with the aims of the _Contemporary Science Series_. + +I have rather chosen to illustrate the most recent conclusions regarding +the phenomena and origin of volcanic action, by the selection of +examples drawn from the districts where these phenomena have been most +carefully observed and recorded under the light of modern geological +science. I have also endeavoured to show, by illustrations carried back +into later geological epochs, how the volcanic phenomena of the present +day do not differ in kind, though they may in degree, from those of the +past history of our globe. For not only do the modes of eruption of +volcanic materials in past geological times resemble those of the +present or human epoch, but the materials themselves are so similar in +character that it is only in consequence of alterations in structure or +composition which the original materials have undergone, since their +extrusion, that any important distinctions can be recognised between the +volcanic products of recent times and those of earlier periods. + +I have, finally, endeavoured to find an answer to two interesting and +important questions: (1) Are we now living in an epoch of extraordinary +volcanic energy?--a question which such terrible outbursts as we have +recently witnessed in Japan, the Malay Archipelago, and even in Italy, +naturally suggest; and (2) What is the ultimate cause of volcanic +action? On this latter point I am gratified to find that my conclusions +are in accordance with those expounded by one who has been appropriately +designated "the Nestor of Modern Geology," Professor Prestwich. + +Within the last few years the study of the structure and composition of +volcanic rocks, by means of the microscope brought to bear on their +translucent sections, has added wonderfully to our knowledge of such +rocks, and has become a special branch of petrological investigation. +Commenced by Sorby, and carried on by Allport, Zirkel, Rosenbusch, Von +Lasaulx, Teall, and many more enthusiastic students, it has thrown a +flood of light upon our knowledge of the mutual relations of the +component minerals of igneous masses, the alteration these minerals have +undergone in some cases, and the conditions under which they have been +erupted and consolidated. But nothing that has been observed has tended +materially to alter conclusions arrived at by other processes of +reasoning regarding volcanic phenomena, and for these we have to fall +back upon observations conducted in the field on a more or less large +scale, and carried on before, during, and after eruptions. Macroscopic +and microscopic observations have to go hand in hand in the study of +volcanic phenomena. + + E. H. + + + + +CONTENTS. + + +PART I. + +_INTRODUCTION._ + + PAGE + +Chap. I. Historic Notices of Volcanic Action 1-9 + + " II. Form, Structure, and Composition of Volcanic + Mountains 10-19 + + " III. Lines and Groups of Active Volcanic Vents 20-29 + + " IV. Mid-ocean Volcanic Islands 30-40 + + +PART II. + +_EUROPEAN VOLCANOES._ + +Chap. I. Vesuvius 41-60 + + " II. Etna 61-68 + + " III. The Lipari Islands, Stromboli 69-75 + + " IV. The Santorin Group 76-83 + + " V. European Extinct or Dormant Volcanoes 84-91 + + " VI. Extinct Volcanoes of Central France 92-112 + + " VII. The Volcanic District of the Rhine Valley 13-125 + + +PART III. + +_DORMANT OR MORIBUND VOLCANOES OF OTHER PARTS OF THE WORLD._ + +Chap. I. Dormant Volcanoes of Palestine and Arabia 126-135 + + " II. The Volcanic Regions of North America 136-145 + + " III. Volcanoes of New Zealand 146-153 + + +PART IV. + +_TERTIARY VOLCANIC DISTRICTS OF THE BRITISH ISLES._ + +Chap. I. Antrim 154-159 + + " II. Succession of Volcanic Eruptions 160-171 + + " III. Island of Mull and Adjoining Coast 172-176 + + " IV. Isle of Skye 177-179 + + " V. The Scuir of Eigg 180-184 + + " VI. Isle of Staffa 185-186 + + +PART V. + +_PRE-TERTIARY VOLCANIC ROCKS._ + +Chap. I. The Deccan Trap-series of India 187-189 + + " II. Abyssinian Table-lands 190-193 + + " III. Cape Colony 194-195 + + " IV. Volcanic Rocks of Past Geological + Periods of the British Isles 196-199 + + +PART VI. + +_SPECIAL VOLCANIC AND SEISMIC PHENOMENA._ + +Chap. I. The Eruption of Krakatoa in 1883 201-216 + + " II. Earthquakes 217-224 + + +PART VII. + +_VOLCANIC AND SEISMIC PROBLEMS._ + +Chap. I. The Ultimate Cause of Volcanic Action 225-235 + + " II. Lunar Volcanoes 236-252 + + " III. Are we Living in an Epoch of Special + Volcanic Activity? 253-257 + + +APPENDIX. + +A Brief Account of the Principal Varieties of + Volcanic Rocks 259-265 + +Index 268 + + + + +ILLUSTRATIONS. + + +Fig. 1. Eruption of Vesuvius, 1872-73 _Frontispiece_ + + " 2. Cotopaxi _Page_ 16 + + " 3. Volcanic Cone of Orizaba " 21 + + Map of the World, showing Active and + Extinct Volcanoes " 23 + + " 4. Teneriffe, seen from the Ocean " 31 + + " 5. View of the Summit of Teneriffe " 35 + + " 6. Probable Aspect of Vesuvius at Beginning + of Christian Era " 43 + + " 7. View of Vesuvius before 1767 " 50 + + " 8. Map of District bordering Bay of Naples " 52 + + " 9. View of Vesuvius in 1872 " 53 + + " 10. Ideal Section through Etna " 63 + + " 11. Map of the Lipari Islands " 70 + + " 12. The Island of Vulcano in Eruption " 71 + + " 13. Ideal Section through Gulf of Santorin " 76 + + " 14. Bird's-eye View of Gulf of Santorin " 79 + + " 15. Ground Plan of Rocca Monfina " 80 + + " 16. Geological Section of Tiber Valley at + Rome " 88 + + " 17. Generalised Section Through the Vale + of Clermont " 93 + +Fig. 18. View of Puy de Dome and Neighbouring + Volcanoes _Page_ 95 + + " 19. Mont Demise, seen from the S.E. " 103 + + " 20. Sketch Map of Rhenish Area in the + Miocene Epoch " 114 + + " 21. The Volcanic Range of the Siebengebirge " 117 + + " 22. Section of Extinct Crater of the Roderberg " 120 + + " 23. Plan and Section of the Laacher See " 122 + + " 24. Extinct Craters in the Jaulan " 130 + + " 25. Mount Shasta " 139 + + " 26. Forms of Volcanic Tuff-Cones, Auckland " 148 + + " 27. "The White Rocks," Portrush, Co. + Antrim " 157 + + " 28. Section across the Volcanic Plateau + of Antrim " 159 + + " 29. Section at Templepatrick " 161 + + " 30. Cliff above the Giant's Causeway " 163 + + " 31. The Giant's Causeway, Co. Antrim " 165 + + " 32. "The Chimneys," North Coast of + Antrim " 166 + + " 33. Section at Alt na Searmoin, Mull " 175 + + " 34. View of the Scuir of Eigg from the East " 181 + + Map of Volcanic Band of the Moluccas " 200 + + " 35. Map of the Krakatoa Group of Islands " 203 + + " 36. Section from Verlaten Island through + Krakatoa " 204 + +Fig. 37. Isoseismals of the Charleston Earthquake _Page_ 223 + + " 38. Photograph of the Moon's Surface " 241 + + " 39. Portion of the Moon's Surface " 243 + + +_PLATES._ + +I. & II. Magnified Sections of Vesuvian Lavas. + +III. & IV. Magnified Sections of Volcanic Rocks. + + + + +Volcanoes: Past and Present. + + + + +PART I. + +INTRODUCTION. + + + + +CHAPTER I. + +HISTORIC NOTICES OF VOLCANIC ACTION. + + +There are no manifestations of the forces of Nature more calculated to +inspire us with feelings of awe and admiration than volcanic eruptions +preceded or accompanied, as they generally are, by earthquake shocks. +Few agents have been so destructive in their effects; and to the real +dangers which follow such terrestrial convulsions are to be added the +feelings of uncertainty and revulsion which arise from the fact that the +earth upon which we tread, and which we have been accustomed to regard +as the emblem of stability, may become at any moment the agent of our +destruction. It is, therefore, not surprising that the ancient Greeks, +who, as well as the Romans, were close observers of the phenomena of +Nature, should have investigated the causes of terrestrial disturbances, +and should have come to some conclusions upon them in accordance with +the light they possessed. These terrible forces presented to the Greeks, +who clothed all the operations of Nature in poetic imagery and deified +her forces, their poetical and mystical side; and as there was a deity +for every natural force, so there was one for earthquakes and volcanoes. +Vulcan, the deformed son of Juno (whose name bears so strange a +resemblance to that of "the first artificer in iron" of the Bible, Tubal +Cain), is condemned to pass his days under Mount Etna, fabricating the +thunderbolts of Jove, and arms for the gods and great heroes of +antiquity. + +The Pythagoreans appear to have held the doctrine of a central fire +(meson pyr) as the source of volcanic phenomena; and in the Dialogues of +Plato allusion is made to a subterranean reservoir of lava, which, +according to Simplicius, was in accordance with the doctrine of the +Pythagoreans which Plato was recounting.[1] Thucydides clearly describes +the effect of earthquakes upon coast-lines of the Grecian Archipelago, +similar to that which took place in the case of the earthquake of +Lisbon, the sea first retiring and afterwards inundating the shore. +Pliny supposed that it was by earthquake avulsion that islands were +naturally formed. Thus Sicily was torn from Italy, Cyprus from Syria, +Euboea from Boeotia, and the rest; but this view was previously +enunciated by Aristotle in his "Peri kosmou," where he states that +earthquakes have torn to pieces many parts of the earth, while lands +have been converted into sea, and that tracts once covered by the sea +have been converted into dry land. + +But the most philosophical views regarding terrestrial phenomena are +those given by Ovid as having been held by Pythagoras (about B.C. 580). +In the _Metamorphoses_ his views regarding the interchange of land and +sea, the effects of running water in eroding valleys, the growth of +deltas, the effect of earthquakes in burying cities and diverting +streams from their sources, are remarkable anticipations of doctrines +now generally held.[2] But what most concerns us at present are his +views regarding the changes which have come over volcanic mountains. In +his day Vesuvius was dormant, but Etna was active; so his illustrations +are drawn from the latter mountain; and in this connection he observes +that volcanic vents shift their position. There was a time, he says, +when Etna was not a burning mountain, and the time will come when it +will cease to burn; whether it be that some caverns become closed up by +the movements of the earth, or others opened, or whether the fuel is +finally exhausted.[3] Strabo may be regarded as having originated the +view, now generally held, that active volcanoes are safety-valves to the +regions in which they are situated. Referring to the tradition recorded +by Pliny, that Sicily was torn from Italy by an earthquake, he observes +that the land near the sea in those parts was rarely shaken by +earthquakes, since there are now orifices whereby fire and ignited +matters and waters escape; but formerly, when the volcanoes of Etna, the +Lipari Islands, Ischia, and others were closed up, the imprisoned fire +and wind might have produced far more violent movements.[4] + +The account of the first recorded eruption of Vesuvius has been +graphically related by the younger Pliny in his two letters to Tacitus, +to which I shall have occasion to refer further on.[5] These bring down +the references to volcanic phenomena amongst ancient authors to the +commencement of the Christian era; from all of which we may infer that +the more enlightened philosophers of antiquity had a general idea that +eruptions had their origin in a central fire within the interior of the +earth, that volcanic mountains were liable to become dormant for long +periods, and afterwards to break out into renewed activity, that there +existed a connection between volcanic action and earthquakes, and that +volcanoes are safety-valves for the regions around. + +It is unnecessary that I should pursue the historical sketch further. +Those who wish to know the views of writers of the Middle Ages will find +them recorded by Sir Charles Lyell.[6] The long controversy carried on +during the latter part of the eighteenth century between "Neptunists," +led by Werner on the one side, and "Vulcanists," led by Hutton and +Playfair on the other, regarding the origin of such rocks as granite and +basalt, was finally brought to a close by the triumph of the +"Vulcanists," who demonstrated that such rocks are the result of igneous +fusion; and that in the cases of basalt and its congeners, they are +being extruded from volcanic vents at the present day. The general +principles for the classification of rocks as recognised in modern +science may be regarded as having been finally established by James +Hutton, of Edinburgh, in his _Theory of the Earth_,[7] while they were +illustrated and defended by Professor Playfair in his work entitled, +_Illustrations of the Huttonian Theory of the Earth_,[8] although other +observers, such as Desmarest, Collini, and Guettard, had in other +countries come to very clear views on this subject. + +The following are some of the more important works on the phenomena of +volcanoes and earthquakes published during the present century:--[9] + +1. Poulett Scrope, F.R.S., _Considerations on Volcanoes_ (1825). This +work is dedicated to Lyell, his fellow-worker in the same department of +science, and was undertaken, as he says, "in order to help to dispel +that signal delusion as to the mode of action of the subtelluric forces +with which the Elevation-Crater theory had mystified the geological +world." The second edition was published in 1872. + +2. This was followed by the admirable work, _On the Extinct Volcanoes +of Central France_, published in 1826 (2nd edition, 1858), and is one of +the most complete monographs on a special volcanic district ever +written. + +3. Dr. Samuel Hibbert, _History of the Extinct Volcanoes of the Basin of +Neuwied on the Lower Rhine_ (1832). Dr. Hibbert's work is one of +remarkable merit, if we consider the time at which it was written. For +not only does it give a clear and detailed account of the volcanic +phenomena of the Eifel and the Lower Rhine, but it anticipates the +principles upon which modern writers account for the formation of river +valleys and other physical features; and in working out the physical +history of the Rhine valley below Mainz, and its connection with the +extinct volcanoes which are found on both banks of that river, he has +taken very much the same line of reasoning which was some years +afterwards adopted by Sir A. Ramsay when dealing with the same subject. +It does not appear that the latter writer was aware of Dr. Hibbert's +treatise. + +4. Leopold von Buch, _Description Physique des Iles Canaries_ (1825), +translated from the original by C. Boulanger (1836); _Geognostische +Reise_ (Berlin, 1809), 2 vols.; and _Reise durch Italien_ (1809). From a +large number of writings on volcanoes by this distinguished traveller, +whom Alexander von Humboldt calls "dem geistreichen Forscher der Natur," +the above are selected as being the most important. That on the Canaries +is accompanied by a large atlas, in which the volcanoes of Teneriffe, +Palma, and Lancerote, with some others, are elaborately represented, and +are considered to bear out the author's views regarding the formation +of volcanic cones by elevation or upheaval. The works dealing with the +volcanic phenomena of Central and Southern Italy are also written with +the object, in part at least, of illustrating and supporting the same +theoretical views; with these we have to deal in the next chapter. + +5. Dr. Charles Daubeny, F.R.S., _Description of Active and Extinct +Volcanoes, of Earthquakes, and of Thermal Springs, with remarks on the +causes of these phenomena, the character of their respective products, +and their influence on the past and present condition of the globe_ (2nd +edition, 1848). In this work the author gives detailed descriptions of +almost all the known volcanic districts of the globe, and defends what +is called "the chemical theory of volcanic action"--a theory at one time +held by Sir Humphrey Davy. + +6. Wolfgang Sartorius von Waltershausen, _Der Aetna_. This work possesses +a melancholy interest from the fact that its distinguished author did +not live to see its publication. Von Waltershausen, having spent several +years in making an elaborate survey of Etna, produced an atlas +containing numerous detailed maps, views, and drawings of this mountain +and its surroundings, which were published at Weimar by Engelmann in +1858. A description in MS. to accompany the atlas was also prepared, but +before it was printed, the author died, on the 16th October 1876. The +MS. having been put into the hands of the late Professor Arnold von +Lasaulx by the publisher of the atlas, it was subsequently brought out +under the care of this distinguished petrologist, who was so fully +fitted for an undertaking of this kind. + +7. Sir Charles Lyell in his _Principles of Geology_[10] devotes several +chapters to the consideration of volcanic phenomena, in which, being in +harmony with the views of his friend, Poulett Scrope, he combats the +"elevation theory" of Von Buch, as applied to the formation of volcanic +mountains, holding that they are built up of ashes, stones, and scoriae +blown out of the throat of the volcano and piled around the orifice in a +conical form. Together with these materials are sheets of lava extruded +in a molten condition from the sides or throat of the crater itself. + +8. Professor J. W. Judd, F.R.S., in his able work entitled, _Volcanoes: +What they are, and what they teach_,[11] has furnished the student of +vulcanicity with a very complete manual of a general character on the +subject. The author, having extensive personal acquaintance with the +volcanoes of the south of Europe and the volcanic rocks of the British +Isles, was well equipped for undertaking a work of the kind; and in it +he supports the views of Lyell and Scrope regarding the mode of +formation of volcanic mountains. + +9. Sir Archibald Geikie, F.R.S., in his elaborate monograph[12] on the +Tertiary Volcanic Rocks of the British Isles, has recorded his views +regarding the origin and succession of the plateau basalts and +associated rocks over the region extending from the north of Ireland to +the Inner Hebrides; and in dealing with these districts in the following +pages I have made extensive use of his observations and conclusions. + +10. _Report published by the Royal Society on the Eruption of +Krakatoa_--drawn up by several authors (1885)--and the work on the same +subject by Chev. Verbeek, and published by the Government of the +Netherlands (1886). In these works all the phenomena connected with the +extraordinary eruptions of Krakatoa in 1883 are carefully noted and +scientifically discussed, and illustrated by maps and drawings. + +11. _The Charleston Earthquake of August 31, 1886_, by Captain Clarence +Edward Dutton, U.S. Ordnance Corps. Ninth Annual Report of the United +States Geological Survey, 1887-88, with maps and illustrations. + +12. Amongst other works which may be consulted with advantage is that of +Mr. T. Mellard Reade on _The Origin of Mountain Ranges_; the Rev. Osmond +Fisher's _Physics of the Earth_; Professor G. H. Darwin and Mr. C. +Davison on "The Internal Tension of the Earth's Crust," _Philosophical +Transactions of the Royal Society_, vol. 178; Mr. R. Mallet, "On the +Dynamics of Earthquakes," _Trans. Roy. Irish Academy_, vol. xxi.; +Professor O'Reilly's "Catalogues of Earthquakes," _Trans. Roy. Irish +Academy_, vol. xxviii. (1884 and 1888); and Mr. A. Ent. Gooch _On the +Causes of Volcanic Action_ (London, 1890). These and other authorities +will be referred to in the text. + +[1] See Julius Schwarez _On the Failure of Geological Attempts made by +the Greeks_. (Edition 1888.) + +[2] + "Vidi ego, quod fuerat quondam solidissima tellus, + Esse fretum. Vidi factas ex aequore terras: + Et procul a pelago conchae jacuere marinae; + Et vetus inventa est in montibus anchora sumnis. + Quodque fuit campus, vallem de cursus aquarum + Fecit; et eluvie mons est deductus in aequor: + Eque paludosa siccis humus aret arenis; + Quaeque sitim tulerant, stagnata paludibus hument. + Hic fontes Natura novos emissit, at illuc + Clausit: et antiquis concussa tremoribus orbis + Fulmina prosiliunt...." + --Lib. xv. 262. + +[3] + "Nec, quae sulfureis ardet fornacibus, Aetne + Ignea semper erit; neque enim fuit ignea semper. + Nam, sive est animal tellus, et vivit, habetque + Spiramenta locis flammam exhalantia multis; + Spirandi mutare vias, quotiesque movetur, + Has finire potest, illas aperire cavernas: + Sive leves imis venti cohibentur in antris; + Saxaque cum saxis...." + --_Ibid._, 340. + +[4] Strabo, lib. vi. + +[5] Tacitus, lib. vi. 16, 20. + +[6] _Principles of Geology_, 11th edition, vol. i., ch. 3. + +[7] 2 vols., Edin. (1795). + +[8] Edin. (1802). + +[9] A more extended list of early works will be found in Daubeny's +_Volcanoes_ (1848). + +[10] 11th edition (1872). + +[11] 4th edition (1888). + +[12] "The History of Volcanic Action during the Tertiary Period in the +British Isles," _Trans. Roy. Soc., Edin._ Vol. xxxv, (1888). + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +FORM, STRUCTURE, AND COMPOSITION OF VOLCANIC MOUNTAINS. + + +The conical form of a volcanic mountain is so generally recognised, that +many persons who have no intelligent acquaintance with geological +phenomena are in the habit of attributing to all mountains having a +conical form, and especially if accompanied by a truncated apex, a +volcanic origin. Yet this is very far from being the fact, as some +varieties of rock, such as quartzite, not unfrequently assume this +shape. Of such we have an example in the case of Errigal, a quartzite +mountain in Donegal, nearly 3000 feet high, which bears a very near +approach in form to a perfect cone or pyramid, and yet is in no way +connected, as regards its origin or structure, with volcanic phenomena. +Another remarkable instance is that of Schehallion in Scotland, also +composed of quartz-rock; and others may be found amongst the ranges of +Islay and Jura, described by Sir A. Geikie.[1] + +Notwithstanding, however, such exceptions, which might be greatly +multiplied, the majority of cone-shaped mountains over the globe have a +volcanic origin.[2] The origin of this form in each case is entirely +distinct. In the case of quartzite mountains, the conical form is due to +atmospheric influences acting on a rock of uniform composition, +traversed by numerous joints and fissures crossing each other at obtuse +angles, along which the rock breaks up and falls away, so that the sides +are always covered by angular shingle forming slopes corresponding to +the angle of friction of the rock in question. In the case of a volcanic +mountain, however, the same form is due either to accumulation of +fragmental material piled around the cup-shaped hollow, or crater, which +is usually placed at the apex of the cone, and owing to which it is +bluntly terminated, or else to the welling up from beneath of viscous +matter in the manner presently to be described. + +_Views of Sir Humphrey Davy and L. von Buch._--The question how a +volcanic cone came to be formed was not settled without a long +controversy carried on by several naturalists of eminence. Some of the +earlier writers of modern times on the subject of vulcanicity--such as +Sir Humphrey Davy and Leopold von Buch--maintained that the conical form +was due to upheaval by a force acting from below at a central focus, +whereby the materials of which the mountain is formed were forced to +assume a _qua-qua versal_ position--that is, a position in which the +materials dip away from the central focus in every direction. But this +view, originally contested by Scrope and Lyell, has now been generally +abandoned. It will be seen on reflection that if a series of strata of +ashes, tuff, and lava, originally horizontal, or nearly so, were to be +forced upwards into a conical form by a central force, the result would +be the formation of a series of radiating fissures ever widening from +the circumference towards the focus. In the case of a large mountain +such fissures, whether filled with lava or otherwise, would be of great +breadth towards the focus, or central crater, and could not fail to make +manifest beyond dispute their mechanical origin. But no fissures of the +kind here referred to are, as a matter of fact, to be observed. Those +which do exist are too insignificant and too irregular in direction to +be ascribed to such an origin; so that the views of Von Buch and Davy +must be dismissed, as being unsupported by observation, and as untenable +on dynamical grounds. As a matter of fact, the "elevatory theory," or +the "elevation-crater theory," as it is called by Scrope, has been +almost universally abandoned by writers on vulcanicity. + +_Principal Varieties of Volcanic Mountains as regards Form._--But whilst +rejecting the "elevatory theory," it is necessary to bear in mind that +volcanic cones and dome-shaped elevations have been formed in several +distinct ways, giving rise to varieties of structure essentially +different. Two of the more general of these varieties of form, the +crater-cone and the dome, are found in some districts, as in Auvergne, +side by side. The crater-cone consists of beds or sheets of ashes, +lapilli, and slag piled up in a conical form, with a central crater (or +cup) containing the principal pipe through which these materials have +been erupted; the dome, of a variety of trachytic lava, which has been +extruded in a molten, or viscous, condition from a central pipe, and in +such cases there is no distinct crater. There are other forms of +volcanic mountains, such as those built up of basaltic matter, of which +I shall have to speak hereafter, but the two former varieties are the +most prevalent; and we may now proceed to consider the conditions under +which the crater-cone volcanoes have been formed. + +_Crateriform Volcanic Cones._--Of this class nearly all the active +volcanoes of the Mediterranean region--Etna, Vesuvius, Stromboli, and +the Lipari Islands--may be considered as representatives. They consist +essentially of masses of fragmental material, which have from time to +time been blown out of an orifice and piled up around with more or less +regularity (according to the force exerted, and direction of the +prevalent winds), alternating with sheets of lava. In this way mountains +several thousand feet in height and of vast horizontal extent are +formed. The fragmental materials thus accumulated are of all sizes, from +the finest dust up to blocks many tons in weight, the latter being +naturally piled around nearest to the orifice. The fine dust, blown high +into the air by the explosive force of the gases and vapours, is often +carried to great distances by the prevalent winds. Thus during the +eruption of Vesuvius in A.D. 472 showers of ashes, carried high into the +air by the westerly wind, fell over Constantinople at a distance of 750 +miles.[3] + +These loose, or partially consolidated, fragmental materials are rudely +stratified, and slope downwards and outwards from the edge of the +crater, so as to present the appearance of what is known as "the dip" of +stratified deposits which have been upraised from the horizontal +position by terrestrial forces. It was this excentrical arrangement +which gave rise to the supposition that such volcanic ash-beds had been +tilted up by a force acting in the direction of the volcanic throat, or +orifice of eruption. The interior wall of Monte di Somma, the original +crater of Vesuvius, presents a good illustration of such fragmental +beds. I shall have occasion further on to describe more fully the +structure of this remarkable mountain; so that it will suffice to say +here that this old prehistoric crater, the walls of which enclose the +modern cone of Vesuvius, is seen to be formed of irregular beds of ash, +scoriae, and fragmental masses, traversed by numerous dykes of lava, and +sloping away outwards towards the surrounding plains. + +Of similar materials are the flanks of Etna composed, even at great +distances from the central crater; the beds of ash and agglomerate +sometimes alternating with sheets of solidified lava and traversed by +dykes of similar material of later date, injected from below through +fissures formed during periods of eruptive energy. Numerous similar +examples are to be observed in the Auvergne region of Central France and +the Eifel. And here we find remarkable cases of "breached cones," or +craters, which will require some special description. Standing on the +summit of the Puy de Dome, and looking northwards or southwards, the eye +wanders over a tract formed of dome-shaped hills and of extinct +crater-cones rising from a granitic platform. But what is most peculiar +in the scene is the ruptured condition of a large number of the cones +with craters. In such cases the wall of the crater has been broken down +on one side, and we observe that a stream of lava has been poured out +through the breach and overflowed the plain below. The cause of this +breached form is sufficiently obvious. In such cases there has been an +explosion of ashes, stones, and scoriae from the volcanic throat, by +which a cone-shaped hill with a crater has been built up. This has been +followed by molten lava welling up through the throat, and gradually +filling the crater. But, as the lava is much more dense than the +material of which the crater wall is composed, the pressure of the lava +outwards has become too great for the resistance of the wall, which +consequently has given way at its weakest part and, a breach being +formed, the molten matter has flowed out in a stream which has inundated +the country lying at the base of the cone. In one instance mentioned by +Scrope, the original upper limit of the lake of molten lava has left its +mark in the form of a ring of slag on the inside of the breached +crater.[4] + +_Craterless Domes._--These differ essentially both in form and +composition from those just described, and have their typical +representatives in the Auvergne district, though not without their +analogues elsewhere, as in the case of Chimborazo, in South America, one +of the loftiest volcanic mountains in the world. + +[Illustration: Fig. 2.--Cotopaxi, a volcano of the Cordilleras of +Quito, still active, and covered by snow down to a level of 14,800 feet. +Below this is a zone of naked rock, succeeded by another of forest +vegetation. Owing to the continuous extrusion of lava from the crater, +the cone is being gradually built up of fresh material, and the crater +is comparatively small in consequence.--(A diagrammatic view after A. +von Humboldt.)] + +Taking the Puy de Dome, Petit Suchet, Cliersou, Grand Sarcoui in +Auvergne, and the Mamelon in the Isle of Bourbon as illustrations, we +have in all these cases a group of volcanic hills, dome-shaped and +destitute of craters, the summits being rounded or slightly flattened. +We also observe that the flanks rise more abruptly from their bases, and +contrast in outline with the graceful curve of the crater cones. The +dome-shaped volcanoes are generally composed of felsitic matter, whether +domite, trachyte, or andesite, which has been extruded in a molten or +viscous condition from some orifice or fissure in the earth's crust, and +being piled up and spreading outwards, necessarily assumes such a form +as that of a dome, as has been shown by experiment on a small scale by +Dr. E. Reyer, of Graetz.[5] The contrast between the two forms (those of +the dome and the crater-cone) is exemplified in the case of the Grand +Sarcoui and its neighbours. The former is composed of a species of +trachyte; the latter of ashes and fragmental matter which have been +blown out of their respective vents of eruption into the air, and piled +up and around in a crateriform manner with sides of gradually +diminishing slope outwards, thus giving rise to the characteristic +volcanic curve. The two varieties here referred to, contrasting in form, +composition, and colour of material, can be clearly recognised from the +summit of the Puy de Dome, which rises by a head and shoulders above its +fellows, and thus affords an advantageous standpoint from which to +compare the various forms of this remarkable group of volcanic +mountains. + +Cotopaxi (Fig. 2) has been generally supposed to be a dome; but Whymper, +who ascended the mountain in 1880, shows that it is a cone with a +crater, 2,300 feet in largest diameter. He determined the height to be +19,613 feet above the ocean. Its real elevation above the sea is +somewhat masked, owing to the fact that it rises from the high plain of +Tapia, which is itself 8,900 feet above the sea surface. The smaller +peak on the right (Fig. 2) is that of Carihuairazo, which reaches an +elevation of over 16,000 feet. + +Chimborazo, in Columbia, province of Quito, is one of the loftiest of +the chain of the Andes, and is situated in lat. 1 deg. 30' S., long. 78 deg. 58' +W. Though not in a state of activity, it is wholly composed of volcanic +material, and reaches an elevation of over 20,000 feet above the ocean; +its sides being covered by a sheet of permanent snow to a level of 2,600 +feet below the summit.[6] Seen from the shores of the Pacific, after the +long rains of winter, it presents a magnificent spectacle, "when the +transparency of the air is increased, and its enormous circular summit +is seen projected upon the deep azure blue of the equatorial sky. The +great rarity of the air through which the tops of the Andes are seen +adds much to the splendour of the snow, and aids the magical effect of +its reflection." + +Chimborazo was ascended by Humboldt and Bonpland in 1802 almost to the +summit; but at a height of 19,300 feet by barometrical measurement, +their further ascent was arrested by a wide chasm. Boussingault, in +company with Colonel Hall, accomplished the ascent as far as the foot of +the mass of columnar "trachyte," the upper surface of which, covered by +a dome of snow, forms the summit of the mountain. The whole mass of the +mountain consists of volcanic rock, varieties of andesite; there is no +trace of a crater, nor of any fragmental materials, such as are usually +ejected from a volcanic vent of eruption.[7] + +_Lava Crater-Cones._--A third form of volcanic mountain is that which +has been built up by successive eruptions of basic lava, such as basalt +or dolerite, when in a molten condition. These are very rare, and the +slope of the sides depends on the amount of original viscosity. Where +the lava is highly fused its slope will be slight, but if in a viscous +condition, successive outpourings from the orifice, unable to reach the +base of the mountain, will tend to form a cone with increasing slope +upwards. Mauna Loa and Kilauea, in the Hawaiian Group, according to +Professor J. D. Dana, are basalt volcanoes in a normal state. They have +distinct craters, and the material of which the mountain is formed is +basalt or dolerite. The volcano of Rangitoto in Auckland, New Zealand, +appears to belong to this class. + +Basalt is the most fusible of volcanic rocks, owing to the augite and +magnetite it contains, so that it spreads out with a very slight slope +when highly fused. Trachyte, on the other hand, is the least fusible +owing to the presence of orthoclase felspar, or quartz; so that the +volcanic domes formed of this material stand at a higher angle from the +horizon than those of basaltic cones. + +[1] _Scenery and Geology of Scotland_ (1865), p. 214. + +[2] Humboldt says: "The form of isolated conical mountains, as those of +Vesuvius, Etna, the Peak of Teneriffe, Tunguagua, and Cotopaxi, is +certainly the shape most commonly observed in volcanoes all over the +globe."--_Views of Nature_, translated by E. C. Otte and H. G. Bohn +(1850). + +[3] It is supposed that after the disastrous explosion of Krakatoa in +1883 the fine dust carried into the higher regions of the atmosphere was +carried round almost the entire globe, and remained suspended for a +lengthened period, as described in a future page. + +[4] Another remarkable case is mentioned and figured by Judd, where one +of the Lipari Isles, composed of pumice and rising out of the +Mediterranean, has been breached by a lava-stream of obsidian.--_Loc. +cit._, p. 123. + +[5] Reyer has produced such dome-shaped masses by forcing a quantity of +plaster of Paris in a pasty condition up through an orifice in a board; +referred to by Judd, _loc. cit._, p. 125. + +[6] Whymper determined the height to be 20,498 feet; Reiss and Stuebel +make it 20,703 feet. Whymper thinks there may be a crater concealed +beneath the dome of snow.--_Travels amongst the Great Andes of the +Equator_, by Edward Whymper (1892). + +[7] Whymper states that there is a prevalent idea that Cotopaxi and a +volcano called Sangai act as safety-valves to each other. Sangai reaches +an elevation (according to Reiss and Stuebel) of 17,464 feet, and sends +intermittent jets of steam high into the air, spreading out into vast +cumulus clouds, which float away southwards, and ultimately +disappear.--_Ibid._, p. 73. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +LINES AND GROUPS OF ACTIVE VOLCANIC VENTS. + + +The globe is girdled by a chain of volcanic mountains in a state of +greater or less activity, which may perhaps be considered a girdle of +safety for the whole world, through which the masses of molten matter in +a state of high pressure beneath the crust find a way of escape; and +thus the structure of the globe is preserved from even greater +convulsions than those which from time to time take place at various +points on its surface. This girdle is partly terrestrial, partly +submarine; and commencing at Mount Erebus, near the Antarctic Pole, +ranging through South Shetland Isle, Cape Horn, the Andes of South +America, the Isthmus of Panama, then through Central America and Mexico, +and the Rocky Mountains to Kamtschatka, the Aleutian Islands, the +Kuriles, the Japanese, the Philippines, New Guinea, and New Zealand, +reaches the Antarctic Circle by the Balleny Islands. This girdle sends +off branches at several points. (See Map, p. 23.) + +[Illustration: Fig. 3.--Volcanic cone of Orizaba (Cittaltepeth), in +Mexico, now extinct; the upper part snow-clad, and at its base forest +vegetation; it reaches a height of 16,302 Parisian feet above the +sea.--(After A. von Humboldt.)] + +(_a._) The linear arrangement of active or dormant volcanic vents has +been pointed out by Humboldt, Von Buch, Daubeny, and other writers. The +great range of burning mountains of the Andes of Chili, Peru, Bolivia, +and Mexico, that of the Aleutian Islands, of Kamtschatka and the Kurile +Islands, extending southwards into the Philippines, and the branching +range of the Sunda Islands are well-known examples. That of the West +Indian Islands, ranging from Grenada through St. Vincent, St. Lucia, +Martinique, Dominica, Guadeloupe, Montserrat, Nevis, and St. Eustace,[1] +is also a remarkable example of the linear arrangement of volcanic +mountains. On tracing these ranges on a map of the world[2] (Map, p. +23), it will be observed that they are either strings of islands, or lie +in proximity to the ocean; and hence the view was naturally entertained +by some writers that oceanic water, or at any rate that of a large lake +or sea, was a necessary agent in the production of volcanic eruptions. +This view seems to receive further corroboration from the fact that the +interior portions of the continents and large islands such as Australia +are destitute of volcanoes in action, with the remarkable exceptions of +Mounts Kenia and Kilimanjaro in Central Africa, and a few others. It is +also very significant in this connection that many of the volcanoes now +extinct, or at least dormant, both in Europe and Asia, appear to have +been in proximity to sheets of water during the period of activity. Thus +the old volcanoes of the Hauran, east of the Jordan, appear to have been +active at the period when the present Jordan valley was filled with +water to such an extent as to constitute a lake two hundred miles in +length, but which has now shrunk back to within the present limits of +the Dead Sea.[3] Again, at the period when the extinct volcanoes of +Central France were in active operation, an extensive lake overspread +the tract lying to the east of the granitic plateau on which the craters +and domes are planted, now constituting the rich and fertile plain of +Clermont. + +[Illustration: Map Of The World Showing Active And Extinct Volcanoes +(Large Dots)] + +Such instances are too significant to allow us to doubt that water in +some form is very generally connected with volcanic operations; but it +does not follow that it was necessary to the original formation of +volcanic vents, whether linear or sporadic. If this were so, the extinct +volcanoes of the British Isles would still be active, as they are close +to the sea-margin, and no volcano would now be active which is not near +to some large sheet of water. But Jorullo, one of the great active +volcanoes of Mexico, lies no less than 120 miles from the ocean, and +Cotopaxi, in Ecuador, is nearly equally distant. Kilimanjaro, 18,881 +feet high, and Kenia, in the equatorial regions of Central Africa, are +about 150 miles from the Victoria Nyanza, and a still greater distance +from the ocean; and Mount Demavend, in Persia, which rises to an +elevation of 18,464 feet near the southern shore of the Caspian Sea, a +volcanic mountain of the first magnitude, is now extinct or dormant.[4] +Such facts as these all tend to show that although water may be an +accessory of volcanic eruptions, it is not in all cases essential; and +we are obliged, therefore, to have recourse to some other theory of +volcanic action differing from that which would attribute it to the +access of water to highly heated or molten matter within the crust of +the earth. + +(_b._) _Leopold von Buch on Rents and Fissures in the Earth's +Crust._--The view of Leopold von Buch, who considered that the great +lines of volcanic mountains above referred to rise along the borders of +rents, or fissures, in the earth's crust, is one which is inherently +probable, and is in keeping with observation. That the crust of the +globe is to a remarkable extent fissured and torn in all directions is a +phenomenon familiar to all field geologists. Such rents and fissures are +often accompanied by displacement of the strata, owing to which the +crust has been vertically elevated on one side or lowered on the other, +and such displacements (or "faults") sometimes amount to thousands of +feet. It is only occasionally, however, that such fractures are +accompanied by the extrusion of molten matter; and in the North of +England and Scotland dykes of igneous rock, such as basalt, which run +across the country for many miles in nearly straight lines, often cut +across the faults, and are only rarely coincident with them. +Nevertheless, it can scarcely be a question that the grand chain of +volcanic mountains which stretches almost continuously along the Andes +of South America, and northwards through Mexico, has been piled up along +the line of a system of fissures in the fundamental rocks parallel to +the coast, though not actually coincident therewith. + +(_c._) _The Cordilleras of Quito._--The structure and arrangement of the +Cordilleras of Quito, for example, are eminently suggestive of +arrangement along lines of fissure. As shown by Alexander von +Humboldt,[5] the volcanic mountains are disposed in two parallel chains, +which run side by side for a distance of over 500 miles northwards into +the State of Columbia, and enclose between them the high plains of Quito +and Lacunga. Along the eastern chain are the great cones of El Altar, +rising to an elevation of 16,383 feet above the ocean, and having an +enormous crater apparently dormant or extinct, and covered with snow; +then Cotopaxi (Fig. 2), its sides covered with snow, and sending forth +from its crater several columns of smoke; then Guamani and Cayambe +(19,000 feet), huge truncated cones apparently extinct; these constitute +the eastern chain of volcanic heights. The western chain contains even +loftier mountains. Here we find the gigantic Chimborazo, an extinct +volcano whose summit is white with snow; Carihuairazo[6] and Illiniza, a +lofty pointed peak like the Matterhorn; Corazon, a snow-clad dome, +reaching a height of 15,871 feet; Atacazo and Pichincha, the latter an +extinct volcano reaching an elevation of 15,920 feet; such is the +western chain, remarkable for its straightness, the volcanic cones being +planted in one grand procession from south to north. This rectilinear +arrangement of the western chain, only a little less conspicuous in the +eastern, is very suggestive of a line of fracture in the crust beneath. +And when we contemplate the prodigious quantity of matter included +within the limits of these colossal domes and their environments, all of +which has been extruded from the internal reservoirs, we gain some idea +of the manner in which the contracting crust disposes of the matter it +can no longer contain.[7] + +Between the volcanoes of Quito and those of Peru there is an intervening +space of fourteen degrees of latitude. This is occupied by the Andes, +regarding the structure of which we have not much information except +that at this part of its course it is not volcanic. But from Arequipa in +Peru (lat. 16 deg. S.), an active volcano, we find a new series of volcanic +mountains continued southwards through Tacora (19,740 feet), then +further south the more or less active vents of Sajama (22,915 feet), +Coquina, Tutupaca, Calama, Atacama, Toconado, and others, forming an +almost continuous range with that part of the desert of Atacama +pertaining to Chili. Through this country we find the volcanic range +appearing at intervals; and still more to the southwards it is doubtless +connected with the volcanoes of Patagonia, north of the Magellan +Straits, and of Tierra del Fuego. Mr. David Forbes considers that this +great range of volcanic mountains, lying nearly north and south, +corresponds to a line of fracture lying somewhat to the east of the +range.[8] + +(_d._) _Other Volcanic Chains._--A similar statement in all probability +applies to the systems of volcanic mountains of the Aleutian Isles, +Kamtschatka, the Kuriles, the Philippines, and Sunda Isles. Nor can +it be reasonably doubted that the western American coast-line has +to a great extent been determined, or marked out, by such lines of +displacement; for, as Darwin has shown, the whole western coast of South +America, for a distance of between 2000 and 3000 miles south of the +Equator, has undergone an upward movement in very recent times--that is, +within the period of living marine shells--during which period the +volcanoes have been in activity.[9] + +(_e._) _The Kurile Islands._--This chain may also be cited in evidence +of volcanic action along fissure lines. It connects the volcanoes of +Kamtschatka with those of Japan, and the linear arrangement is apparent. +In the former peninsula Erman counted no fewer than thirteen active +volcanic mountains rising to heights of 12,000 to 15,000 feet above the +sea.[10] In the chain of the Kuriles Professor John Milne counted +fifty-two well-defined volcanoes, of which nine, perhaps more, are +certainly active.[11] They are not so high as those of Kamtschatka; but, +on the other hand, they rise from very deep oceanic waters, and have +been probably built up from the sea bottom by successive eruptions of +tuff, lava, and ash. According to the view of Professor Milne, the +volcanoes of the Kurile chain are fast becoming extinct. + +(_f._) _Volcanic Groups._--Besides the volcanic vents arranged in lines, +of which we have treated above, there are a large number, both active +and extinct, which appear to be disposed in groups, or sporadically +distributed, over various portions of the earth's surface. I say _appear +to be_, because this sporadic distribution may really be resolvable (at +least in some cases) into linear distribution for short distances. Thus +the Neapolitan Group, which might at first sight seem to be arranged +round Vesuvius as a centre, really resolves itself into a line of active +and extinct vents of eruption, ranging across Italy from the Tyrrhenian +Sea to the Adriatic, through Ischia, Procida, Monte Nuovo and the +Phlegraean Fields, Vesuvius, and Mount Vultur.[12] Again, the extinct +volcanoes of Central France, which appear to form an isolated group, +indicate, when viewed in detail, a linear arrangement ranging from north +to south.[13] Another region over which extinct craters are distributed +lies along the banks of the Rhine, above Bonn and the Moselle; a fourth +in Hungary; a fifth in Asia Minor and Northern Palestine; and a sixth in +Central Asia around Lake Balkash. These are all continental, and the +linear distribution is not apparent. + +[1] For an interesting account of this range of volcanic islands see +Kingsley's _At Last_. The grandest volcanic peak is that of Guadeloupe, +rising to a height of 5000 feet above the ocean, amidst a group of +fourteen extinct craters. But the most active vent of the range is the +Souffriere of St. Vincent. In the eruption of 1812 this mountain sent +forth clouds of pumice, scoriae and ashes, some of which were carried by +an upper counter current to Barbados, one hundred miles to the eastward, +covering the surface with volcanic dust to a depth of several inches. + +[2] An excellent, and perhaps the most recent, map of this kind is that +given by Professor Prestwich in his _Geology_, vol. i. p. 216. One on a +larger scale is that by Keith Johnston in his _Physical Atlas_. + +[3] _Memoir on the Physical Geology and Geography of Arabia Petraea, +Palestine_, etc., published for the Committee of the Palestine +Exploration Fund (1886), p. 113, etc. + +[4] This mountain was ascended in 1837 by Mr. Taylor Thomson, who found +the summit covered with sulphur, and from a cone fumes at a high +temperature issued forth, but there was no eruption.--_Journ. Roy. +Geographical Soc._, vol. viii. p. 109. + +[5] Humboldt, _Atlas der Kleineren Schriften_ (1853). + +[6] Ascended by Whymper June 29, 1880. He found the elevation to be +16,515 feet. + +[7] The arrangement of the volcanoes of Peru and Bolivia is also +suggestive of a double line of fissure, while those of Chili suggest one +single line. The volcanoes of Arequipa, in the southern part of Peru, +are dealt with by Dr. F. H. Hatch, in his inaugural dissertation, _Ueber +die Gesteine der Vulcan-Gruppe von Arequipa_ (Wien, 1886). The volcanoes +rise to great elevations, having their summits capped by snow. The +volcano of Charchani, lying to the north of Arequipa, reaches an +elevation of 18,382 Parisian feet. That of Pichupichu reaches a height +of 17,355 Par. feet. The central cone of Misti has been variously +estimated to range from 17,240 to 19,000 Par. feet. The rocks of which +the mountains are composed consist of varieties of andesite. + +[8] D. Forbes, "On the Geology of Bolivia and Southern Peru," _Quarterly +Journal of the Geological Society_, vol. xvii. p. 22 (1861). + +[9] Darwin, _Structure and Distribution of Coral Reefs_, second edition, +p. 186. + +[10] Erman, _Reise um die Welt_. + +[11] Milne, "Cruise amongst the Kurile Islands," _Geol. Mag._, New Ser. +(August 1879). + +[12] See Daubeny, _Volcanoes_, Map I. + +[13] Sir A. Geikie has connected as a line of volcanic vents those of +Sicily, Italy, Central France, the N. E. of Ireland, the Inner Hebrides +and Iceland, of which the central vents are extinct or dormant, the +extremities active. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +MID-OCEAN VOLCANIC ISLANDS. + + +_Oceanic Islands._--By far the most extensive regions with sporadically +distributed volcanic vents, both active and extinct, are those which are +overspread by the waters of the ocean, where the vents emerge in the +form of islands. These are to be found in all the great oceans, the +Atlantic, the Pacific, and the Indian; but are especially numerous over +the central Pacific region. As Kotzebue and subsequently Darwin have +pointed out, all the islands of the Pacific are either coral-reefs or of +volcanic origin; and many of these rise from great depths; that is to +say, from depths of 1000 to 2000 fathoms. It is unnecessary here to +attempt to enumerate all these islands which rise in solitary grandeur +from the surface of the ocean, and are the scenes of volcanic +operations; a few may, however, be enumerated. + +[Illustration: Fig. 4.--The Peak of Teneriffe (Pic de Teyde) as seen +from the ocean.--(From a photograph.)] + +(_a._) _Iceland._--In the Atlantic, Iceland first claims notice, owing +to the magnitude and number of its active vents and the variety of the +accompanying phenomena, especially the geysers. As Lyell has +observed,[1] with the exception of Etna and Vesuvius, the most complete +chronological records of a series of eruptions in existence are those +of Iceland, which come down from the ninth century of our era, and which +go to show that since the twelfth century there has never been an +interval of more than forty years without either an eruption or a great +earthquake. So intense is the volcanic energy in this island that some +of the eruptions of Hecla have lasted six years without cessation. +Earthquakes have often shaken the whole island at once, causing great +changes in the interior, such as the sinking down of hills, the rending +of mountains, the desertion by rivers of their channels, and the +appearance of new lakes. New islands have often been thrown up near the +coast, while others have disappeared. In the intervals between the +eruptions, innumerable hot springs afford vent to the subterranean heat, +and solfataras discharge copious streams of inflammable matter. The +volcanoes in different parts of the island are observed, like those of +the Phlegraean Fields, to be in activity by turns, one vent serving for a +time as a safety-valve for the others. The most memorable eruption of +recent years was that of Skaptar Jokul in 1783, when a new island was +thrown up, and two torrents of lava issued forth, one 45 and the other +50 miles in length, and which, according to the estimate of Professor +Bischoff, contained matter surpassing in magnitude the bulk of Mont +Blanc. One of these streams filled up a large lake, and, entering the +channel of the Skapta, completely dried up the river. The volcanoes of +Iceland may be considered as safety-valves to the region in which lie +the British Isles. + +(_b._) _The Azores, Canary, and Cape de Verde Groups._--This group of +volcanic isles rises from deep Atlantic waters north of the Equator, +and the vents of eruption are partially active, partially dormant, or +extinct. It must be supposed, however, that at a former period volcanic +action was vastly more energetic than at present; for, except at the +Grand Canary, Gomera, Forta Ventura, and Lancerote, where various +non-volcanic rocks are found, these islands appear to have been built up +from their foundations of eruptive materials. The highest point in the +Azores is the Peak of Pico, which rises to a height of 7016 feet above +the ocean. But this great elevation is surpassed by that of the Peak of +Teneriffe (or Pic de Teyde) in the Canaries, which attains to an +elevation of 12,225 feet, as determined by Professor Piazzi Smyth.[2] + +This great volcanic cone, rising from the ocean, its summit shrouded in +snow, and often protruding above the clouds, must be an object of +uncommon beauty and interest when seen from the deck of a ship. (Fig. +4.) The central cone, formed of trachyte, pumice, obsidian, and ashes, +rises out of a vast caldron of older basaltic rocks with precipitous +inner walls--much as the cone of Vesuvius rises from within the +partially encircling walls of Somma. (Fig. 5.) From the summit issue +forth sulphurous vapours, but no flame. + +Piazzi Smyth, who during a prolonged visit to this mountain in 1856 made +a careful survey of its form and structure, shows that the great cone is +surrounded by an outer ring of basalt enclosing two _foci_ of eruption, +the lavas from which have broken through the ring of the outer crater +on the western side, and have poured down the mountain. At the top of +the peak its once active crater is filled up, and we find a convex +surface ("The Plain of Rambleta") surmounted towards its eastern end by +a diminutive cone, 500 feet high, called "Humboldt's Ash Cone." The +slope of the great cone of Teneriffe ranges from 28 deg. to 38 deg.; and below a +level of 7000 feet the general slope of the whole mountain down to the +water's edge varies from 10 deg. to 12 deg. from the horizontal. The great cone +is penetrated by numerous basaltic dykes. + +The Cape de Verde Islands, which contain beds of limestone along with +volcanic matter, possess in the island of Fuego an active volcano, +rising to a height of 7000 feet above the surface of the ocean. The +central cone, like that of Teneriffe, rises from within an outer crater, +formed of basalt alternating with beds of agglomerate, and traversed by +numerous dykes of lava. This has been broken down on one side like that +of Somma; and over its flanks are scattered numerous cones of scoriae, +the most recent dating from the years 1785 and 1799.[3] + +[Illustration: Fig. 5.--View of the summit of the Peak of Teneriffe +(12,225 feet) and of the secondary crater, or outer ring of basaltic +sheets which surrounds its base; seen from the east.--(After Leopold von +Buch.)] + +The volcanoes of Lancerote have a remarkably linear arrangement from +west to east across the island. They are not yet extinct; for an +eruption in 1730 destroyed a large number of villages, and covered with +lava the most fertile tracts in the island, which at the time of Leopold +von Buch's visit lay waste and destitute of herbage.[4] In the island of +Palma there is one large central crater, the Caldera de Palma, three +leagues in diameter, the walls of which conform closely to the margin +of the coast. Von Buch calls this crater "une merveille de la nature," +for it distinguishes this isle from all the others, and renders it one +of the most interesting and remarkable amongst the volcanic islands of +the ocean. The outer walls are formed of basaltic sheets, and towards +the south this great natural theatre is connected with the ocean by a +long straight valley, called the "Barranco de los Dolores," along whose +sides the structure of the mountain is deeply laid open to view. The +outer flanks of the crater are furrowed by a great number of smaller +barrancos radiating outward from the rim of the caldera. Von Buch +regards the barrancos as having been formed during the upheaval of the +island, according to his theory of the formation of such mountains (the +elevation-theory); but unfortunately for his views, these ravines widen +outwards from the centre, or at least do not become narrower in that +direction, as would be the case were the elevation-theory sound. The +maps which accompany Von Buch's work are remarkably good, and were +partly constructed by himself. + +(_c._) _Volcanic Islands in the Atlantic south of the Equator._--The +island of Ascension, formed entirely of volcanic matter, rises from a +depth of 2000 fathoms in the very centre of the Atlantic. As described +by Darwin, the central and more elevated portions are formed of +trachytic matter, with obsidian and laminated ash beds. Amongst these +are found ejected masses of unchanged granite, fragments of which have +been torn from the central pipe during periods of activity, and would +seem to indicate a granitic floor, or at least an original floor upon +which more recent deposits may have been superimposed. In St. Helena we +seem, according to Daubeny, to have the mere wreck of one great crater, +no one stream of lava being traceable to its source, while dykes of lava +are scattered in profusion throughout the whole substance of the +basaltic masses which compose the island. Tristan da Cunha, in the +centre of the South Atlantic, rises abruptly from a depth of 12,150 +feet, at a distance of 1500 miles from any land; and one of its summits +reaches an elevation of 7000 feet, being a truncated cone composed of +alternating strata of tuff and augitic lava, surrounding a crater in +which is a lake of pure water. The volcano is extinct or dormant. + +Were the waters of the ocean to be drawn off, these volcanic islands +would appear like stupendous conical mountains, far loftier, and with +sides more precipitous, than any to be found on our continental lands, +all of which rise from platforms of considerable elevation. The enormous +pressure of the water on their sides enables these mid-oceanic islands +to stand with slopes varying from the perpendicular to a smaller extent +than if they were sub-aerial; and it is on this account that we find them +rising with such extraordinary abruptness from the "vasty deep." + +(_d._) _Volcanic Islands of the Pacific._--The volcanic islands of this +great ocean are scattered over a wide tract on both sides of the +equator. Those to the north of this line include the Sandwich Islands, +the Mariana or Ladrone Islands, South Island, and Bonin Sima; south of +the equator, the Galapagos, New Britain, Salomon, Santa Cruz, New +Hebrides, the Friendly and Society Isles. While the coral reefs and +islands of the Pacific may be recognised by their slight elevation +above the surface of the waters, those of volcanic origin and containing +active or extinct craters of eruption generally rise into lofty +elevations, so that the two kinds are called the _Low_ Islands and +_High_ Islands respectively. Amongst the group are trachytic domes such +as the Mountain of Tobreonu in the Society Islands, rising to a height +probably not inferior to that of Etna, with extremely steep sides, and +holding a lake on its summit.[5] The linear arrangement of some of the +volcanic islands of the Pacific is illustrated by those of the Tonga, or +Friendly, Group, lying to the north of New Zealand. They consist of +three divisions--(1) the volcanic; (2) those formed of stratified +volcanic tuff, sometimes entirely or partially covered by coralline +limestone; and (3) those which are purely coralline. The first form a +chain of lofty cones and craters, lying in a E.N.E. and W.S.W. +direction, and rising from depths of over 1000 fathoms. Mr. J. J. +Lister, who has described the physical characters of these islands, has +shown very clearly that they lie along a line--probably that of a great +fissure--stretching from the volcanic island of Amargura on the north +(lat. 18 deg. S.), through Lette, Metis, Kao (3030 feet), Tofua, Falcon, +Honga Tonga, and the Kermadec Group into the New Zealand chain on the +south. Some of these volcanoes are in a state of intermittent activity, +as in the case of Tofua (lat. 20 deg. 30' S.), Metis Island, and Amargura; +the others are dormant or extinct. The whole group appears to have been +elevated at a recent period, as some of the beds of coral have been +raised 1272 feet and upward above the sea-level, as in the case of Eua +Island.[6] The greater number of the Pacific volcanoes appear to be +basaltic; such as those of the Hawaiian Group, which have been so fully +described by Professor J. D. Dana.[7] Here fifteen volcanoes of the +first class have been in brilliant action; all of which, except three, +are now extinct, and these are in Hawaii the largest and most eastern of +the group. This island contains five volcanic mountains, of which Kea, +13,805 feet, is the highest; next to that, Loa, 13,675 feet; after +these, Hualalai, rising 8273 feet; Kilauea, 4158 feet; and Kohala, 5505 +feet above the sea; this last is largely buried beneath the lavas of +Mauna Kea. The group contains a double line of volcanoes, one lying to +the north and west of the other; and as the highest of the Hawaiian +Group rises from a depth in the ocean of over 2000 fathoms, the total +elevation of this mountain from its base on the bed of the ocean is not +far from 26,000 feet, an elevation about that of the Himalayas. Mauna +Kea has long been extinct, Hualalai has been dormant since 1801; but +Mauna Loa is terribly active, there having been several eruptions, +accompanied by earthquakes, within recent years, the most memorable +being those of 1852 and 1868. In the former case the lava rose from the +deep crater into "a lofty mountain," as described by Mr. Coan,[8] and +then flowed away eastward for a distance of twenty miles. The interior +of the crater consists of a vast caldron, surrounded by a precipice 200 +to 400 feet in depth, with a circumference of about fifteen miles, and +containing within it a second crater, bounded by a black ledge with a +steep wall of basalt--a crater within a crater; and from the floor of +the inner crater, formed of molten basalt, in a seething and boiling +state, arise a large number of small cones and pyramids of lava, some +emitting columns of grey smoke, others brilliant flames and streams of +molten lava, presenting a wonderful spectacle, the effect of which is +heightened by the constant roaring of the vast furnaces below.[9] + +[1] _Principles of Geology_, 11th edition, vol. ii. p. 48. + +[2] Smyth, _Report on the Teneriffe Astronomical Experiment of 1856_. +Humboldt makes the elevation 12,090 feet. A beautiful model of the Peak +was constructed by Mr. J. Nasmyth from Piazzi Smyth's plans, of which +photographs are given by the latter. + +[3] Daubeny, _loc. cit._, p. 460. + +[4] _Iles Canaries_, p. 37. + +[5] Daubeny, _loc. cit._, p. 426. + +[6] Lister, "Notes on the Geology of the Tonga Islands," _Quart. Jour. +Geol. Soc._, No. 188, p. 590 (1891). + +[7] Dana, _Characteristics of Volcanoes, with Contributions of Facts and +Principles from the Hawaiian Islands_. London, 1890.--Also, _Geology of +the American Exploring Expedition--Volcanoes of the Sandwich Islands_. + +[8] Coan, _Amer. Jour. of Science_, 1853. + +[9] W. Ellis, the missionary, has given a vivid description of this +volcano in his _Tour of Hawaii_. London, 1826.--Plans of the crater will +be found in Professor Dana's work above quoted. + + + + +PART II. + +EUROPEAN VOLCANOES. + + + + +CHAPTER I. + +VESUVIUS. + + +Having now dealt in a necessarily cursory manner with volcanoes of +distant parts of the globe, we may proceed to the consideration of the +group of active volcanoes which still survive in Europe, as they possess +a special interest, not only from their proximity and facility of +access, at least to residents in Europe and the British Isles, but from +their historic incidents; and in this respect Vesuvius, though not by +any means the largest of the group, stands the first, and demands more +special notice. The whole group rises from the shores of the +Mediterranean, and consists of Vesuvius, Etna, Stromboli, one of the +Lipari Islands, and Vulcano, a mountain which has given the name to all +mountains of similar origin with itself.[1] Along with these are +innumerable cones and craters of extinct or dormant volcanoes, of which +a large number have been thrown out on the flanks of Etna. + +(_a._) _Prehistoric Ideas regarding the Nature of this Mountain._--Down +to the commencement of the Christian era this mountain had given no +ostensible indication that it contained within itself a powerful focus +of volcanic energy. True, that some vague tradition that the mountain +once gave forth fire hovered around its borders; and several ancient +writers, amongst them Diodorus Siculus and Strabo, inferred from the +appearances of the higher parts of the mountain and the character of the +rocks, which were "cindery and as if eaten by fire," that the country +was once in a burning state, "being full of fiery abysses, though now +extinct from want of fuel." Seneca (B.C. 1 to A.D. 64) had detected the +true character of Vesuvius, as "having been a channel for the internal +fire, but not its food;" nevertheless, at this period the flanks of the +mountain were covered by fields and vineyards, while the summit, +partially enclosed with precipitous walls of the long extinct volcano, +Somma, was formed of slaggy and scoriaceous material, with probably a +covering of scrub. Here it was that the gladiator Spartacus (B.C. 72), +stung by the intolerable evils of the Roman Government, retreated to the +very summit of the mountain with some trusty followers. Clodius the +Praetor, according to the narration of Plutarch, with a party of three +thousand men, was sent against them, and besieged them in a mountain +(meaning Vesuvius or Somma) having but one narrow and difficult passage, +which Clodius kept guarded; all the rest was encompassed with broken and +slippery precipices, but upon the top grew a great many wild vines; the +besieged cut down as many as they had need of, and twisted them into +ladders long enough to reach from thence to the bottom, by which, +without any danger, all got down except one, who stayed behind to throw +them their arms, after which he saved himself with the rest.[2] "On the +top" must (as Professor Phillips observes) be interpreted the summit of +the exterior slope or crater edge, which would appear from the narrative +to have broken down on one side, affording an entrance and mode of +egress by which Spartacus fell upon, and surprised, the negligent +Clodius Glabrus. + +[Illustration: Fig. 6.--Probable aspect of Vesuvius as it appeared at +the beginning of the Christian era; seen from the Bay of Naples.] + +In fancied security, villas, temples, and cities had been erected on +the slopes of the mountain. Herculaneum, Pompeii, and Stabiae, the abodes +of art, luxury, and vice, had sprung up in happy ignorance that they +"stood on a volcano," and that their prosperity was to have a sudden and +disastrous close.[3] + +(_b._) _Premonitory Earthquake Shocks._--The first monitions of the +impending catastrophe occurred in the 63rd year after Christ, when the +whole Campagna was shaken by an earthquake, which did much damage to the +towns and villas surrounding the mountain even beyond Naples. This was +followed by other shocks; and in Pompeii the temple of Isis was so much +damaged as to require reconstruction, which was undertaken and carried +out by a citizen at his own expense.[4] These earthquake shakings +continued for sixteen years. At length, on the night of August 24th, +A.D. 79, they became so violent that the whole region seemed to reel and +totter, and all things appeared to be threatened with destruction. The +next day, about one in the afternoon, there was seen to rise in the +direction of Vesuvius a dense cloud, which, after ascending from the +summit of the mountain into the air for a certain height in one narrow, +vertical trunk, spread itself out laterally in such a form that the +upper part might be compared to the cluster of branches, and the lower +to the stem of the pine which forms so common a feature in the Italian +landscape.[5] + +(_c._) _Pliny's Letters to Tacitus._--For an account of what followed we +are indebted to the admirable letters of the younger Pliny, addressed to +the historian Tacitus, recounting the events which caused, or +accompanied, the death of his uncle, the elder Pliny, who at the time of +this first eruption of Vesuvius was in command of the Roman fleet at the +entrance to the Bay of Naples. These letters, which are models of style +and of accurate description, are too long to be inserted here; but he +recounts how the dense cloud which hung over the mountain spread over +the whole surrounding region, sometimes illuminated by flashes of light +more vivid than lightning; how showers of cinders, stones, and ashes +fell in such quantity that his uncle had to flee from Stabiae, and that +even at so great a distance as Misenum they encumbered the surface of +the ground; how the ground heaved and the bed of the sea was upraised; +how the cloud descended on Misenum, and even the island of Capreae was +concealed from view; and finally, how, urged by a friend who had +arrived from Spain, he, with filial affection, supported the steps of +his mother in flying from the city of destruction. Such being the +condition of the atmosphere and the effects of the eruption at a point +so distant as Cape Misenum, some sixteen geographical miles from the +focus of eruption, it is only to be expected that places not half the +distance, such as Herculaneum, Pompeii, and even Stabiae, with many +villages and dwellings, should have shared a worse fate. The first of +these cities, situated on the coast of the Bay of Naples, appears to +have been overwhelmed by volcanic mud; Pompeii was buried in ashes and +lapilli, and Stabiae probably shared a similar fate.[6] + +(_d._) _Appearance of the Mountain at the Commencement of the Christian +Era._--At the time of the first recorded eruption Vesuvius appears to +have consisted of only a single cone with a crater, now known as Monte +di Somma, the central cone of eruption which now rises from within this +outer ruptured casing not having been formed. (Fig. 6.) The first effect +of the eruption of the year 79 was to blow out the solidified covering +of slag and scoriae forming the floor of the caldron. Doubtless at the +close of the eruption a cone of fragmental matter and lava of some +slight elevation was built up, and, if so, was subsequently destroyed; +for, as we shall presently see by the testimony of the Abate Guilio +Cesare Braccini, who examined the mountain not long before the great +eruption of A.D. 1631, there was no central cone to the mountain at that +time; and the mountain had assumed pretty much the appearance it had at +the time that Spartacus took refuge within the walls of the great +crater. + +(_e._) _Destruction of Pompeii._--Pompeii was overwhelmed with dry ashes +and lapilli. Sir W. Hamilton found some of the stones to weigh eight +pounds. At the time of the author's visit, early in April 1872, the +excavations had laid open a section about ten feet deep, chiefly +composed of alternating layers of small pumice stones (lapilli) and +volcanic dust. It was during the sinking of a well in 1713 upon the +theatre containing the statues of Hercules and Cleopatra that the +existence of the ancient city was accidentally discovered. + +(_f._) _More recent eruptions._--Since the first recorded eruption in +A.D. 79 down to the present day, Vesuvius has been the scene of numerous +intermittent eruptions, of which some have been recorded; but many, +doubtless, are forgotten. + +In A.D. 203, during the reign of Severus, an eruption of extraordinary +violence took place, which is related by Dion Cassius, from whose +narrative we may gather that at this time there was only one large +crater, and that the central cone of Vesuvius had not as yet been +upraised. In A.D. 472 an eruption occurred of such magnitude as to cover +all Europe with fine dust, and spread alarm even at Constantinople. + +(_g._) _Eruption of 1631._--In December 1631 occurred the great +convulsion whose memorials are written widely on the western face of +Vesuvius in ruined villages. This eruption left layers of ashes over +hundreds of miles of country, or heaps of mud swept down by hot water +floods from the crater; the crater itself having been dissipated in the +convulsion. Braccini, who examined the mountain not long before this +eruption, found apparently no cone (or mount) like that of the modern +Vesuvius. He states that the crater was five miles in circumference, +about a thousand paces deep (or in sloping descent), and its sides +covered with forest trees and brushwood, while at the bottom there was a +plain on which cattle grazed.[7] It would seem that the mountain had at +this time enjoyed a long interval of rest, and that it had reverted to +very much the same state in which it was at the period of the first +eruption, when the flanks were peopled by inhabitants living in fancied +security. But six months of violent earthquakes, which grew more violent +towards the close of 1631, heralded the eruption which took place in +December, accompanied by terrific noises from within the interior of the +mountain. The inhabitants of the coast were thus warned of the +approaching danger, and had several days to arrange for their safety; +but in the end, a great part of Torre del Greco was destroyed, and a +like fate overtook Resina and Granatello, with a loss of life reported +at 18,000 persons. During the eruption clouds condensed into tempests of +rain, and hot water from the mountain, forming deluges of mud, swept +down the sides, and reached even to Nola and the Apennines. Nor was the +sea unmoved. It retired during the violent earthquakes, and then +returned full thirty paces beyond its former limits. + +Not indeed until near the close of the seventeenth century is there any +evidence that the central cone of Vesuvius was in existence; but in +October 1685 an eruption occurred which is recorded by Sorrentino, +during which was erected "a new mountain within, and higher than the old +one, and visible from Naples," a statement evidently referable to the +existing cone--so that it is little more than two centuries since this +famous volcanic mountain assumed its present form. + +(_h._) _Eruptions between the years 1500 and 1800._--Since A.D. 1500 +there have been fifty-six recorded eruptions of Vesuvius; one of these +in 1767 was of terrific violence and destructiveness, and is represented +by Sir William Hamilton in views taken both before and during the +eruption. A pen-and-ink drawing of the appearance of the crater before +the eruption is here reproduced from Hamilton's picture, from which it +will be seen that the central crater contained within itself a second +crater-cone, from whence steam, lava, and stones were being erupted +(Fig. 7). Thus it will be seen that Vesuvius at this epoch consisted of +three crater-cones within each other. The first, Monte di Somma; the +second, the cone of Vesuvius; and the third, the little crater-cone +within the second. During this eruption, vast lava-sheets invaded the +fields and vineyards on the flanks of the mountain. A vivid account of +this eruption, as witnessed by Padre Torre, is given by Professor +Phillips.[8] We shall pass over others without further reference until +we come down to our own times, in which Vesuvius has resumed its old +character, and in one grand exhibition of volcanic energy, which took +place in 1872, has evinced to the world that it still contains within +its deep-seated laboratory all the elements of destructive force which +it exhibited at the commencement of our era. + +[Illustration: Fig. 7.--View of the crater of Vesuvius before the +eruption of 1767, showing an interior crater-cone rising from the centre +of the exterior crater.--(After Sir W. Hamilton.)] + +(_i._) _Structure of the Neapolitan Campagna._--But before giving a +description of this terrific outburst of volcanic energy, it may be +desirable to give some account of the physical position and structure of +this mountain, by which the phenomena of the eruption will be better +understood. Vesuvius and the Neapolitan Campagna are formed of volcanic +materials bounded on the west by the Gulf of Naples, and on the east and +south by ranges of Jurassic limestone, a prolongation of the Apennines, +which send out a spur bounding the bay on the south, and forming the +promontory of Sorrento. The little island of Capri is also formed of +limestone, and is dissevered from the promontory by a narrow channel. +The northern side of the bay is, however, formed of volcanic materials; +it includes the Phlegraean Fields (Campi Phlegraei), and terminates in the +promontory of Miseno. Lying in the same direction are the islands of +Procida and Ischia, also volcanic. Hence it will be seen that the two +horns of the bay are formed of entirely different materials, that of +Miseno on the north being volcanic, that of Sorrento on the south being +composed of Jurassic limestone, of an age vastly more ancient than the +volcanic rocks on the opposite shore. (Map, p. 52.) + +The general composition of the Neapolitan Campagna, from which the +mountain rises, has been revealed by means of the Artesian well sunk to +a depth of about 500 metres (1640 feet) at the Royal Palace of Naples, +and may be generalised as follows:-- + + { Recent beds of volcanic tuff +(1) From surface to depth of { with marine shells, and containing + 715 feet { fragments of trachytic + { lava, etc. (_Volcanic Beds_). + + { Bituminous sands and marls +(2) From 715 to 1420 { with marine shells of recent + { species(?) (_Pre-Volcanic Beds_). + +(3) From 1420 to 1574 { EOCENE BEDS. Micaceous sandstone + { and marl (_Macigno_). + +(4) From 1574 to bottom { JURASSIC BEDS. Apennine + { Limestone. + +[Illustration: Fig. 8.--Map of the district bordering the Bay of +Naples, with the islands of Capri, Ischia, and Procida.] + +From the above section, for which we are indebted to Mr. Johnston-Lavis, +the most recent writer on Vesuvius, it would appear that the first +volcanic explosions by which the mountain was ultimately to be built up +took place after the deposition of the sands and marls (No. 2), while +the whole Campagna was submerged under the waters of the Mediterranean. +By the accumulation of the stratified tuff (No. 1), the sea-bed was +gradually filled up during a period of volcanic activity, and afterwards +elevated into dry land.[9] + +[Illustration: Fig. 9.--View of Vesuvius from the Harbour of Naples at +the commencement of the eruption of 1872.--(From a sketch by the +author.)] + +(_j._) _Present Form and Structure of Vesuvius and Somma._--The outer +cone of Vesuvius, or Monte di Somma, rises from a circular platform by a +moderately gentle ascent, and along the north and east terminates in a +craggy crest, with a precipitous cliff descending into the Atria del +Cavallo, forming the wall of the ancient crater throughout half its +circumference; this wall is formed of scoriae, ashes, and lapilli, and is +traversed by numerous dykes of lava. Along the west and south this old +crater has been broken down; but near the centre there remains a +round-backed ridge of similar materials, once doubtless a part of the +original crater of Somma, rising above the slopes of lava on either +hand. On this has been erected the Royal Observatory, under the +superintendence of Professor Luigi Palmieri, where continuous +observations are being made, by means of delicate seismometers, of the +earth-tremors which precede or accompany eruptions; for it is only +justice to say that Vesuvius gives fair warning of impending mischief, +and the instruments are quick to notify any premonitory symptoms of a +coming catastrophe. The elevation of the Observatory is 2080 feet above +the sea. + +On either side of the Observatory ridge are wide channels filled to a +certain height with lavas of the nineteenth and preceding centuries, the +most recent presenting an aspect which can only be compared to a +confused multitude of black serpents and pachyderms writhing and +interlocked in some frightful death-struggle. Some of this lava, ten +years old, as we cross its rugged and black surface presents gaping +fissures, showing the mass to be red-hot a few feet from the surface, so +slow is the process of cooling. These lava-streams--some of them +reaching to the sea-coast--have issued forth from the Atria at +successive periods of eruption. + +From the midst of the Atria rises the central cone, formed of cinders, +scoriae, and lava-streams, and fissured along lines radiating from the +axis. This cone is very steep, the angle being about 40 deg.-45 deg. from the +horizontal, and is formed of loose cindery matter which gives way at +every step, and is rather difficult to climb. But on reaching the summit +we look down into the crater, displaying a scene of ever-varying +characters, rather oval in form, and about 1100 yards in diameter. From +the map of Professor Guiscardi, published in 1855, there are seen two +minor craters within the central one, formed in 1850, and an outflow of +lava from the N.W. down the cone. At the time of the author's visit the +crater was giving indications, by the great quantity of sulphurous gas +and vapour rising from its surface, and small jets of molten lava +beginning to flow down the outer side, of the grand outburst of internal +forces which was presently to follow. + +(_k._) _Eruption of 1872._--The grand eruption of 1872, of which a +detailed account is given by Professor Palmieri,[10] commenced with a +slight discharge of incandescent projectiles from the crater; and on the +13th January an aperture appeared on the upper edge of the cone from +which at first a little lava issued forth, followed by the uprising of a +cone which threw out projectiles accompanied by smoke, whilst the +central crater continued to detonate more loudly and frequently. This +little cone ultimately increased in size, until in April it filled the +whole crater and rose four or five metres above the brim. At this time +abundant lavas poured down from the base of the cone into the Atria del +Cavallo, thence turned into the Fossa della Vetraria in the direction of +the Observatory and towards the Crocella, where they accumulated to +such an extent as to cover the hillside for a distance of about 300 +metres; then turning below the Canteroni, formed a hillock without +spreading much farther. + +In October another small crater was formed by the falling in of the +lava, which after a few days gave vent to smoke and several jets of +lava; and towards the end of October the detonations increased, the +smoke from the central crater issued forth more densely mixed with +ashes, and the seismographical apparatus was much disturbed. On the 3rd +and 4th November copious and splendid lava-streams coursed down the +principal cone on its western side, but were soon exhausted; and in the +beginning of 1872 the little cone, regaining vigour, began to discharge +lava from the summit instead of the base as heretofore. + +In the month of March 1873, with the full moon, the cone opened on the +north-west side--the cleavage being indicated by a line of +fumaroles--and lava issued from the base and poured down into the Atria +as far as the precipices of Monte di Somma. On the 23rd April (another +full moon) the activity of the craters increased, and on the evening of +the 24th splendid lava-streams descended the cone in various directions, +attracting on the same night the visits of a great many strangers. A +lamentable event followed on the 26th. A party of visitors, accompanied +by inexperienced guides, and contrary to the advice of Professor +Palmieri, insisted on ascending to the place from which the lava issued. +At half-past three on the morning of the 26th they were in the Atria del +Cavallo, when the Vesuvian cone was rent in a north-west direction and a +copious torrent of lava issued forth. Two large craters formed at the +summit of the mountain, discharging incandescent projectiles and ashes. +A cloud of smoke enveloped the unhappy visitors, who were under a +hail-storm of burning projectiles. Eight were buried beneath it, or in +the lava, while eleven were grievously injured.[11] The lava-stream, +flowing over that of 1871 in the Atria, divided into two branches, the +smaller one flowing towards Resina, but stopping before reaching the +town; the larger precipitated itself into the Fossa della Vetraria, +occupying the whole width of 800 metres, and traversing the entire +length of 1300 metres in three hours. It dashed into the Fossa di +Farone, and reached the villages of Massa and St. Sebastiano, covering a +portion of the houses, and, continuing its course through an artificial +foss, or trench, invaded cultivated ground and several villages. If it +had not greatly slackened after midnight, from failure of supply at its +source, it would have reached Naples by Ponticelli and flowed into the +sea. The eruption towards the end of April had reached its height. The +Observatory ridge was bounded on either side by two fiery streams, which +rendered the heat intolerable. Simultaneously with the opening of the +great fissure two large craters opened at the summit, discharging with a +dreadful noise an immense cloud of smoke and ashes, with bombs which +rose to a height of 1300 metres above the brim of the volcano.[12] The +torrents of fire which threatened Resina, Bosco, and Torre Annunziata, +and which devastated the fertile country of Novelle, Massa, St. +Sebastiano, and Cerole, and two partially buried cities, the continual +thunderings and growling of the craters, caused such terror, that +numbers abandoned their dwellings, flying for refuge into Naples, while +many Neapolitans went to Rome or other places. Fortunately, the paroxysm +had now passed, the lava-streams stopped in their course, and the great +torrent which passed the shoulders of the Observatory through the Fossa +della Vetraria lowered the level of its surface below that of its sides, +which appeared like two parallel ramparts above it. Had these streams +continued to flow on the 27th of April as they had done on the previous +night, they would have reached the sea, bringing destruction to the very +walls of Naples. During this eruption Torre del Greco was upraised to +the extent of two metres, and nearly all the houses were knocked down. + +The igneous period of eruption having terminated, the ashes, lapilli, +and projectiles became more abundant, accompanied by thunder and +lightning. On the 28th they darkened the air, and the terrific noise of +the mountain continuing or increasing, the terror at Resina, Portici, +and Naples became universal. It seemed as though the tragic calamities +of the eruption of A.D. 79 were about to be repeated. But gradually the +force of the explosions decreased, and the noise from the crater became +discontinuous, so that on the 30th the detonations were very few, and by +the 1st May the eruption was completely over. + +Such is a condensed account of one of the most formidable eruptions of +our era. In the frontispiece of this volume a representation, taken (by +permission) from a photograph by Negretti & Zambra, is given, showing +the appearance of Vesuvius during the final stage of the eruption, when +prodigious masses of smoke, steam, and illuminated gas issued forth from +the summit and overspread the whole country around with a canopy which +the light of the sun could scarcely penetrate. + +It will be noticed in the above account that, concurrently with the full +moon, there were two distinct and special outbreaks of activity; one +occurring in March, the other in the month following. That the +conditions of lunar and solar attraction should have a marked effect on +a part of the earth's crust, while under the tension of eruptive forces, +is only what might be expected. At full moon the earth is between the +sun and the moon, and at new moon the moon is between the sun and the +earth; under these conditions (the two bodies acting in concert) we have +spring tides in the ocean, and a maximum of attraction on the mass of +the earth. Hence the crust, which at the time referred to was under +tremendous strain, only required the addition of that caused by the +lunar and solar attractions to produce rupture in both cases, giving +rise to increased activity, and the extrusion of lava and volatile +matter. It may, in general, be safely affirmed that low barometric +pressure on the one hand, and the occurrence of the syzygies (when the +attractions of the sun and moon are in the same line) on the other, have +had great influence in determining the crises of eruptions of volcanic +mountains when in a state of unrest. + +_Contrast between the Northern and Southern Slopes._--Before leaving +Vesuvius it may be observed that throughout all the eruptions of modern +times the northern side of the mountain, that is the old crater and +flank of Somma, has been secure from the lava-flows, and has enjoyed an +immunity which does not belong to the southern and western side. If we +look at a map of the mountain showing the direction of the streams +during the last three centuries,[13] we observe that all the streams of +that period flowed down on the side overlooking the Bay of Naples; on +the opposite side the wall of Monte di Somma presents an unbroken front +to the lava-streams. From this it may be inferred that one side, the +west, is weaker than the other; and consequently, when the lava and +vapours are being forced upwards, under enormous pressure from beneath, +the western side gives way under the strain, as in the case of the +fissure of 1872, and the lava and vapours find means of escape. From +what has happened in the past it is clear that no place on the western +side of the mountain is entirely safe from devastation by floods of +lava; while the prevalent winds tend to carry the ashes and lapilli, +which are hurled into the air, in the same westerly direction. + +[1] For an excellent view of this remarkable volcanic group see Judd's +_Volcanoes_, 4th edition, p. 43. + +[2] Plutarch, _Life of Cassius_; _ed. Reiske_, vol. iii. p. 240. + +[3] Strabo gives the following account of the appearance and condition +of Vesuvius in his day:--"Supra haec loca situs est Vesuvius mons, agris +cinctus optimis; dempto vertice, qui magna sui parte planus, totus +sterilis est, adspectu sinereus, cavernasque ostendens fistularum plenas +et lapidum colore fuliginoso, utpote ab igni exesorum. Ut conjectarum +facere possis, ista loca quondam arsisse et crateras ignis habuisse, +deinde materia deficiente restricta fuisse."--_Rer. Geog._, lib. v. + +[4] A tablet over the entrance records this act of pious liberality, and +is given by Phillips, _loc. cit._, p. 12. + +[5] The stone pine, _Pinus pinea_, which Turner knew how to use with so +much effect in his Italian landscapes. + +[6] Bulwer Lytton's _Last Days of Pompeii_ presents to the reader a +graphic picture of the terrible event here referred to:--"The eyes of +the crowd followed the gesture of the Egyptian, and beheld with +ineffable dismay a vast vapour shooting from the summit of Vesuvius, in +the form of a gigantic pine tree; the trunk--blackness, the +branches--fire! A fire that shifted and wavered in its hues with every +moment--now fiercely luminous, now of a dull and dying red that again +blazed terrifically forth with intolerable glare!... Then there arose on +high the shrieks of women; the men stared at each other, but were +speechless. At that moment they felt the earth shake beneath their feet; +the walls of the theatre trembled; and beyond, in the distance, they +heard the crash of falling roofs; an instant more and the mountain-cloud +seemed to roll towards them, dark and rapid; at the same time it cast +forth from its bosom a shower of ashes mixed with vast fragments of +burning stone. Over the crushing vines--over the desolate streets--over +the amphitheatre itself--far and wide, with many a mighty splash in the +agitated sea, fell that awful shower." A visit to the disinterred city +will probably produce on the mind a still more lasting and vivid +impression of the swift destruction which overtook this city. + +[7] Quoted by Phillips, _loc. cit._, p. 45. + +[8] _Vesuvius_, p. 72 _et seq._ + +[9] Johnston-Lavis, "On the Geology of Monti Somma and Vesuvius," +_Quart. Jour. Geol. Soc._, vol. 40 (1884). + +[10] Palmieri, _Eruption of Vesuvius in 1872_, with notes, etc., by +Robert Mallet, F.R.S. London, 1873. + +[11] Those who lost their lives were medical students, and an Assistant +Professor in the University, Antonio Giannone by name. + +[12] Involving, as Mr. Mallet calculates, an initial velocity of +projection of above 600 feet per second. + +[13] Such as that given by Professor Phillips in his _Vesuvius_. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +ETNA. + + +(_a._) _Structure of the Mountain._--Etna, unlike Vesuvius, has ever +been a burning mountain; hence it was well known as such to classic +writers before the Christian era. The structure and features of this +magnificent mountain have been abundantly illustrated by Elie de +Beaumont,[1] Daubeny,[2] Baron von Waltershausen,[3] and Lyell,[4] of +whose writings I shall freely avail myself in the following account, not +having had the advantage of a personal examination of this region. + +_Structure of Etna._--So large is Etna that it would enclose within its +ample skirts several cones of the size of Vesuvius. It rises to a height +of nearly 11,000 feet above the waters of the Mediterranean,[5] and is +planted on a floor consisting of stratified marine volcanic matter, with +clays, sands, and limestones of newer Pliocene age. Its base is nearly +circular, and has a circumference of 87 English miles. In ascending its +flanks we pass successively over three well-defined physical zones: the +lowest, or fertile zone, comprising the tract around the skirts of the +mountain up to a level of about 2500 feet, being well cultivated and +covered by dwellings surrounded by olive groves, fields, vineyards, and +fruit-trees; the second, or forest zone, extending to a level of about +6270 feet, clothed with chestnut, oak, beech, and cork trees, giving +place to pines; and the third, extending to the summit and called "the +desert region," a waste of black lava and scoriae with mighty crags and +precipices, terminating in a snow-clad tableland, from which rises the +central cone, 1100 feet high, emitting continually steam and sulphurous +vapours, and in the course of almost every century sending forth streams +of molten lava. + +The forest zone is remarkable for the great number of minor craters +which rise up from the midst of the foliage, and are themselves clothed +with trees. Sartorius von Waltershausen has laid down on his map of Etna +about 200 of these cones and craters, some of which, like those of +Auvergne, have been broken down on one side. Many of these volcanoes of +second or third magnitude lie outside the forest zone, both above and +below it; such as the double hill of Monti Rossi, near Nicolosi, formed +in 1659, which is 450 feet in height, and two miles in circumference at +its base. Sir C. Lyell observes that these minor crater-cones present us +with one of the most delightful and characteristic scenes in Europe. +They occur of every variety of height and size, and are arranged in +picturesque groups. However uniform they may appear when seen from the +sea or the plains below, nothing can be more diversified than their +shape when we look from above into their ruptured craters. The cones +situated in the higher parts of the forest zone are chiefly clothed with +lofty pines; while those at a lower elevation are adorned with +chestnuts, oaks, and beech trees. These cones have from time to time +been buried amidst fresh lava-streams descending from the great crater, +and thus often become obliterated. + +[Illustration: Fig. 10.--Ideal Section through Etna. (After Lyell.)--A. +Axis of present cone of eruption; B. Axis of extinct cone of eruption; +_a._ Older lavas, chiefly trachytic; _b._ Newer lavas, erupted (with +_a_) before origin of the Val del Bove; _c._ Scoria and lava of recent +age; T. Tertiary strata forming the foundation to the volcanic rocks. +The position of the Val del Bove before its formation is shown by the +lightly-shaded portion above B.] + +(_b._) _Val del Bove._--The most wonderful feature of Mount Etna is the +celebrated Val del Bove (Valle del Bue), of which S. von Waltershausen +has furnished a very beautiful plate[6]--a vast amphitheatre hewn out of +the eastern flank of the mountain, just below the snow-mantled platform. +It is a physical feature somewhat after the fashion of Monte Somma in +Vesuvius, but exceeds it in magnitude as Etna exceeds Vesuvius. The Val +del Bove is about five miles in diameter, bounded throughout +three-fourths of its circumference by precipitous walls of ashes, +scoriae, and lava, traversed by innumerable dykes, and rising inwards to +a height of between 3000 and 4000 feet. Towards the east the cliffs +gradually fall to a height of about 500 feet, and at this side the vast +chasm opens out upon the slope of the mountain. At the head of the Val +del Bove rises the platform, surmounted by the great cone and crater. It +will thus be seen that by means of this hollow we have access almost to +the very heart of the mountain. + +What is very remarkable about the structure of this valley is that the +beds exhibit "the _qua-qua_ versal dip"--in other words, they dip away +on all sides from the centre--which has led to the conclusion that in +the centre is a focus of eruption which had become closed up +antecedently to the formation of the valley itself. Lyell has explained +this point very clearly by showing that this focus had ceased to eject +matter at some distant period, and that the existing crater at the +summit of the mountain had poured out its lavas over those of the +extinct orifice. This was prior to the formation of the Val del Bove +itself; and the question remains for consideration how this vast natural +amphitheatre came to be hollowed out; for its structure shows +unquestionably that it owes its form to some process of excavation. + +In the first place, it is certainly not the work of running water, as in +the case of the canyons of Colorado; the porous matter of which the +mountain is formed is quite incapable of originating and supporting a +stream of sufficient volume to excavate and carry away such enormous +masses of matter within the period required for the purpose. We must +therefore have recourse to some other agency. Numerous illustrations are +to be found of the explosive action of volcanoes in blowing off either +the summits of mountains, or portions of their sides. For example, there +is reason for believing that the first result of the renewed energy of +Vesuvius was to blow into the air the upper surface of the mountain. +Again, so late as 1822, during a violent earthquake in Java, a country +which has been repeatedly devastated by earthquakes and volcanic +eruptions, the mountain of Galongoon, which was covered by a dense +forest, and situated in a fertile and thickly-peopled region, and had +never within the period of tradition been in activity, was thus ruptured +by internal forces. In the month of July 1822, after a terrible +earthquake, an explosion was heard, and immense columns of boiling +water, mixed with mud and stones, were projected from the mountain like +a water-spout, and in falling filled up the valleys, and covered the +country with a thick deposit for many miles, burying villages and their +inhabitants. During a subsequent eruption great blocks of basalt were +thrown to a distance of seven miles; the result of all being that an +enormous semicircular gulf was formed between the summit and the plain, +bounded by steep cliffs, and bearing considerable resemblance to the Val +del Bove. Other examples of the power of volcanic explosions might be +cited; but the above are sufficient to show that great hollows may thus +be formed either on the summits or flanks of volcanic mountains. Chasms +may also be formed by the falling in of the solidified crust, owing to +the extrusion of molten matter from some neighbouring vent of eruption; +and it is conceivable that by one or other of these processes the vast +chasm of the Val del Bove on the flanks of Etna may have been produced. + +(_c._) _The Physical History of Etna._--The physical history of Etna +seems to be somewhat as follows:-- + +_First Stage._--Somewhere towards the close of the Tertiary +period--perhaps early Pliocene or late Miocene--a vent of eruption +opened on the floor of the Mediterranean Sea, from which sheets of lava +were poured forth, and ashes mingled with clays and sands, brought down +from the neighbouring lands, were strewn over the sea-bed. During a +pause in volcanic activity, beds of limestone with marine shells were +deposited. + +_Second Stage._--This sea-bed was gradually upraised into the air, while +fresh sheets of lava and other _ejecta_ were accumulated round the vents +of eruption, of which there were two principal ones--the older under the +present Val del Bove, the newer under the summit of the principal cone. +Thus was the mountain gradually piled up. + +_Third Stage._--The vent under the Val del Bove ceased to extrude more +matter, and became extinct. Meanwhile the second vent continued active, +and, piling up more and more matter round the central crater, surmounted +the former vent, and covered its _ejecta_ with newer sheets of lava, +ashes, and lapilli, while numerous smaller vents, scattered all over the +sides of the mountain, gave rise to smaller cones and craters. + +_Fourth Stage._--This stage is signalised by the formation of the Val +del Bove through some grand explosion, or series of explosions, by which +this vast chasm was opened in the side of the mountain, as already +explained. + +_Fifth Stage._--This represents the present condition of the mountain, +whose height above the sea is due, not only to accumulation of volcanic +materials round the central cone, but to elevation of the whole island, +as evinced by numerous raised beaches of gravel and sand, containing +shells and other forms of marine species now living in the waters of the +Mediterranean.[7] Since then the condition and form of the mountain has +remained very much the same, varied only by the results of occasional +eruptions. + +(_d._) _Dissimilarity in the Constitution of the Lavas of Etna and +Vesuvius._--Before leaving the subject we have been considering, it is +necessary that I should mention one remarkable fact connected with the +origin of the lavas of Etna and Vesuvius respectively; I refer to their +essential differences in mineral composition. It might at first sight +have been supposed that the lavas of these two volcanic +mountains--situated at such a short distance from each other, and +evidently along the same line of fracture in the crust--would be of the +same general composition; but such is not the case. In the lava of +Vesuvius leucite is an essential, and perhaps the most abundant mineral. +It is called by Zirkel _Sanidin-Leucitgestein_. (See Plate IV.) But in +that of Etna this mineral is (as far as I am aware) altogether absent. +We have fortunately abundant means of comparison, as the lavas of these +two mountains have been submitted to close examination by petrologists. +In the case of the Vesuvian lavas, an elaborate series of chemical +analyses and microscopical observations have been made by the Rev. +Professor Haughton, of Dublin University, and the author,[8] from +specimens collected by Professor Guiscardi from the lava-flows extending +from 1631 to 1868, in every one of which leucite occurs, generally as +the most abundant mineral, always as an essential constituent. On the +other hand, the composition of the lavas of Etna, determined by +Professor A. von Lasaulx, from specimens taken from the oldest +(voraetnaeischen) sheets of lava down to those of the present day, +indicates a rock of remarkable uniformity of composition, in which the +components are plagioclase felspar, augite, olivine, magnetite, and +sometimes apatite; but of leucite we have no trace.[9] In fact, the +lavas of Etna are very much the same in composition as the ordinary +basalts of the British Isles, while those of Vesuvius are of a different +type. This seems to suggest an origin of the two sets of lavas from a +different deep-seated magma; the presence of leucite in such large +quantity requiring a magma in which soda is in excess, as compared with +that from which the lavas of Etna have been derived.[10] + +[1] _Memoires pour Servir_, etc., vol. ii. + +[2] Daubeny, _Volcanoes_, p. 270. + +[3] Von Waltershausen, _Der Aetna_, edited by A. von Lasaulx. + +[4] Lyell, _Principles of Geology_, vol. ii., edition 1872. + +[5] Its height, as determined by Captain Smyth in 1875 +trigonometrically, was 10,874 feet, and afterwards by Sir J. Herschel +barometrically, 10,872 feet. + +[6] _Atlas des Aetna_ (Weimar, 1858), in which the different lava-streams +of 1688, 1802, 1809, 1811, 1819, 1824, and 1838 are delineated. + +[7] Sir William Hamilton observes that history is silent regarding the +first eruptions of Etna. It was in activity before the Trojan War, and +even before the arrival of the "Sizilien" settlers. Diodorus and +Thucydides notice the earliest recorded eruptions, those from 772 to 388 +B.C., during which time the mountain was thrice in eruption. Later +eruptions took place in the year 140, 135, 125, 122 B.C. In the year 44 +B.C., in the reign of Julius Caesar, there was a very violent outburst of +volcanic activity.--_Neuere Beobachtungen ueber die Vulkane Italiens und +am Rhein_, p. 173, Frankfurt (1784). + +[8] "Report on the Chemical and Mineralogical Characters of the Lavas of +Vesuvius from 1631 to 1868," _Transactions of the Royal Irish Academy_, +vol. xxvi. (1876). In the lava of 1848 leucite was found to reach 44.9 +per cent. of the whole mass. In that of Granatello, 1631, it reaches its +lowest proportion--viz., 3.37 per cent. + +[9] A. von Lasaulx, in Von Waltershausen's _Der Aetna_, Book II., x. 423. + +[10] The view of Professor Judd, that leucite easily changes into +felspar, and that some ancient igneous rocks which now contain felspar +were originally leucitic, does not seem to be borne out by the above +facts. In such cases the felspar crystals ought to retain the forms of +leucite. See _Volcanoes_, 4th edition, p. 268. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +THE LIPARI ISLANDS, STROMBOLI. + + +(_a._) A brief account of this remarkable group of volcanic islands must +here be given, inasmuch as they seem to be representatives of a stage of +volcanic action in which the igneous forces are gradually losing their +energy. According to Daubeny, the volcanic action in these islands seems +to be developed along two lines, nearly at right angles to each other, +one parallel to that of the Apennines, beginning with Stromboli, +intersecting Panaria, Lipari, and Vulcano; the other extending from +Panaria to Salina, Alicudi, and Felicudi, and again visible in the +volcanic products which make their appearance at Ustica. (See Map, Fig. +11.) The islands lie between the north coast of Sicily and that of +Italy, and from their position seem to connect Etna with Vesuvius; but +this is very problematical, as would appear from the difference of their +lavas. The principal islands are those of Stromboli, Panaria, Lipari, +Vulcano, Salina, Felicudi, and Alicudi. These three last are extinct or +dormant, but Salina contains a crater, rising, according to Daubeny, not +less than 3500 feet above the sea.[1] Vulcano (referred to by Strabo +under the name of Hiera) consists of a crater which constantly emits +large quantities of sulphurous vapours, but was in a state of activity +in the year 1786, when, after frequent earthquake shocks and +subterranean noises, it vomited forth during fifteen days showers of +sand, together with clouds of smoke and flame, altering materially the +shape of the crater from which they proceeded. + +[Illustration: LIPARI ISLANDS. +Fig. 11.--Map to show the position of these islands, showing the +branching lines of volcanic action--one parallel to that of the +Apennines, the other stretching westwards at right angles thereto.] + +The islands of Lipari are formed of beds of tuff, penetrated by numerous +dykes of lava, from which uprise two or three craters, formed of pumice +and obsidian passing into trachyte. Volcanic operations might have here +been said to be extinct, were it not that their continuance is +manifested by the existence of hot springs and "stufes," or vapour +baths, at St. Calogero, about four miles from the town of Lipari. +Daubeny considers it not improbable that this island may have had an +active volcano even within the historical period, a view which is borne +out by the statement of Strabo.[2] + +[Illustration: Fig. 12.--Island of Vulcano, one of the Lipari Group, in +eruption.--(After Sir W. Hamilton.)] + +(_b._) But by far the most remarkable island of the group, as regards +its present volcanic condition, is Stromboli, which has ever been in +active eruption from the commencement of history down to the present +day. Professor Judd, who visited this island in 1874, and has produced a +striking representation of its aspect,[3] gives an account of which I +shall here avail myself.[4] The island is of rudely circular outline, +and rises into a cone, the summit of which is 3090 feet above the level +of the Mediterranean. From a point on the side of the mountain masses of +vapour are seen to issue, and these unite to form a cloud over the +summit; the outline of this vapour-cloud varying continually according +to the hygrometric state of the atmosphere, and the direction and force +of the wind. At the time of Professor Judd's visit, the vapour-cloud +was spread in a great horizontal stratum overshadowing the whole island; +but it was clearly seen to be made up of a number of globular masses, +each of which is a product of a distinct outburst of volcanic forces. +Viewed at night-time, Stromboli presents a far more striking and +singular spectacle. When watched from the deck of a vessel, a glow of +red light is seen to make its appearance from time to time above the +summit of the mountain; it may be observed to increase gradually in +intensity, and then as gradually to die away. After a short interval the +same appearances are repeated, and this goes on till the increasing +light of dawn causes the phenomenon to be no longer visible. The +resemblance presented by Stromboli to a "flashing light" on a most +gigantic scale is very striking, and the mountain has long been known as +"the lighthouse of the Mediterranean." + +The mountain is built up of ashes, slag, and scoriae, to a height of (as +already stated) over 3000 feet above the surface of the sea; but, as +Professor Judd observes, this by no means gives a just idea of its vast +bulk. Soundings in the sea surrounding the island show that the bottom +gradually shelves around the shores to a depth of nearly 600 fathoms, so +that Stromboli is a great conical mass of cinders and slaggy materials, +having a height above its floor of about 6600 feet, and a base the +diameter of which exceeds four miles. + +The crater of Stromboli is situated, not at the apex of the cone, but at +a distance of 1000 feet below it. The explosions of steam, accompanied +by the roaring as of a smelting furnace, or of a railway engine when +blowing off its steam, are said by Judd to take place at very irregular +intervals of time, "varying from less than one minute to twenty minutes, +or even more." On the other hand, Hoffmann describes them as occurring +at "perfectly regular intervals," so that, perhaps, some variation has +taken place within the interval of about forty years between each +observation. Both observers agree in stating that lava is to be seen +welling up from some of the apertures within the crater, and pouring +down the slope towards the sea, which it seldom or never reaches.[5] The +intermittent character of these eruptions appears to be due, as Mr. +Scrope has suggested, to the exact proportion between the expansive and +repressive forces; the expansive force arising from the generation of a +certain amount of aqueous vapour and of elastic gas; the repressive, +from the pressure of the atmosphere and from the weight of the +superincumbent volcanic products. Steam is here, as in a steam-engine, +not the originating agent in the phenomena recorded; but the result of +water coming in contact with molten lava constantly welling up from the +interior, by which it is converted into steam, which from time to time +acquires sufficient elastic force to produce the eruptions; the water +being obviously derived from the surrounding sea, which finds its way by +filtration through fissures, or through the porous mass of which the +mountain is formed. Were it not for the access of water this volcano +would probably appear as a fissure-cone extruding a small and continuous +stream of molten lava. The adventitious access of the sea water gives +rise to the phenomena of intermittent explosions. The vitality of the +volcano is therefore due, not to the presence of water, but to the +welling up of matter from the internal reservoir through the throat of +the volcano. + +_Pantelleria._--This island, lying between the coast of Sicily and Cape +Bon in Africa, is wholly volcanic. It has a circumference of thirty +miles, and from its centre rises an extinct crater-cone to a height of +about 3000 feet. The flanks of this volcano are diversified by several +fresh craters and lava-streams, while hot springs burst out with a +hissing noise on its southern flank, showing that molten matter lies +below at no very great depth. + +This island probably lies along the dividing line between the +non-volcanic and volcanic region of the Mediterranean, and is +consequently liable to intermittent eruptions. It was at a short +distance from this island that the remarkable submarine outburst of +volcanic forces took place on October 17th, 1891, for an account of +which we are indebted to Colonel J. C. Mackowen.[6] On that day, after a +succession of earthquake shocks, the inhabitants were startled by +observing a column of "smoke" rising out of the sea at a distance of +three miles, in a north-westerly direction. The Governor, Francesco +Valenza, having manned a boat, rowed out towards the fiery column, and +on arriving found it to consist of black scoriaceous bombs, which were +being hurled into the air to a height of nearly thirty yards; some of +them burst in the air, others, discharging steam, ran hissing over the +water; many of them were very hot, some even red-hot. One of these +bombs, measuring two feet in diameter, was captured and brought to +shore. It was observed that after the eruption the earthquake shocks +ceased. A vast amount of material was cast out of the submarine crater, +forming an island 500 yards in length and rising up to nine feet above +the surface, but after a few days it was broken up and dispersed over +the sea-bed by the action of the waves. + +[1] _Volcanoes_, p. 262. These islands are described by Hoffmann, +_Poggendorf Annal._, vol. xxvi. (1832); also by Lyell, _Principles of +Geology_, vol. ii., and by Judd, who personally visited them, and gives +a very vivid account of their appearance and structure. + +[2] Strabo, lib. vi. + +[3] Judd, _Volcanoes_, p. 8. + +[4] Stromboli has also been described by Spallanzani, Hoffmann, Daubeny, +and others. The account of Judd is the most recent. Of this island +Strabo says, "Strongyle a rotundate figurae sic dicta, ignita ipsa +quoque, violentia flammarum minor, fulgore excellens; ibi habitasse +Aecolum ajunt."--Lib. vi. + +[5] _Poggend. Annal._, vol. xxvi., quoted by Daubeny. + +[6] Communicated by Captain Petrie to the Victoria Institute, 1st +February 1892. See also a detailed and illustrated account of the +eruption communicated by A. Ricco to the _Annali dell' Ufficio centrale +Meteorologico e Geodonamico_, Ser. ii., Parte 3, vol. xi. Summarised by +Mr. Butler in _Nature_, April 21, 1892. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +THE SANTORIN GROUP. + + +[Illustration: Fig. 13.--Ideal Section through the Gulf of Santorin, to +show the structure of the submerged volcano.--_a._ Island of Aspronisi; +_b._ Island of Thera; 1. Old Kaimeni Island; 2. New Kaimeni Island; 3. +Little Kaimeni Island.] + +(_a._) Before leaving the subject of European active volcanoes, it is +necessary to give some account of the remarkable volcanic island of +Santorin, in the Grecian archipelago. This island for 2000 years has +been the scene of active volcanic operations, and in its outline and +configuration, both below and above the surface of the Mediterranean, +presents the aspect of a partially submerged volcanic mountain. (See +Section, Fig. 13.) If, for example, we can imagine the waters of the sea +to rise around the flanks of Vesuvius until they have entered and +overflowed to some depth the interior caldron of Somma, thus converting +the old crater into a crescent-shaped island, and the cone of Vesuvius +into an island--or group of islands--within the caldron, then we shall +form some idea of the appearance and structure of the Santorin group. + +_Form of the Group._--The principal island, Thera, has somewhat the +shape of a crescent, breaking off in a precipitous cliff on the inner +side, but on the outer side sloping at an angle of about fifteen degrees +into deep water. Continuing the curvature of the crescent, but separated +by a channel, is the island of Therasia; and between this and the +southern promontory of Thera is another island called Aspronisi. All +these islands, if united, would form the rim of a crater, in which the +volcanic matter slopes outward into deep water, descending at a short +distance to a depth of 200 fathoms and upwards. In the centre of the +gulf thus formed rise three islands, called the Old, New, and Little +Kaimenis. These may be regarded as cones of eruption, which history +records as having been thrown up at successive intervals. According to +Pliny, the year 186 B.C. gave birth to Old Kaimeni, also called Hiera, +or the Sacred Isle; and in the first year of our era Thera (the Divine) +made its appearance above the water, and was soon joined to the older +island by subsequent eruptions. Old Kaimeni also increased in size by +the eruptions of 726 and 1427. A century and a half later, in 1573, +another eruption produced the cone and crater called Micra-Kaimeni. Thus +were formed, or rather were rendered visible above the water, the +central craters of eruption; and between these and the inner cliff of +Thera and Therasia is a ring of deep water, descending to a depth of +over 200 fathoms. So that, were these islands raised out of the sea, we +should have presented to our view a magnificent circular crater about +six miles in diameter, bounded by nearly vertical walls of rock from +1000 to 1500 feet in height, and ruptured at one point, from the centre +of which would rise two volcanic cones--namely, the Kaimenis--one with a +double crater, still foci of eruption, and from time to time bursting +forth in paroxysms of volcanic energy, of which those of 1650, 1707, and +1866 were the most violent and destructive.[1] Of this last I give a +bird's-eye view (Fig. 14). + +The only rock of non-volcanic origin in these islands consists of +granular limestone and clay slate forming the ridge of Mount St. Elias, +which rises to a height of 1887 feet at the south-eastern side of the +island of Thera, crossing the island from its outer margin nearly to the +interior cliff, so that the volcanic materials have been piled up along +its sides. The rocks of St. Elias are much more ancient than any of the +volcanic materials around; and, as Bory St. Vincent has shown, have been +subjected to the same flexures, dip and strike, as those sedimentary +rocks which go to form the non-volcanic islands of the Grecian +archipelago. + +[Illustration: Fig. 14.--Bird's-eye View of the Gulf of Santorin during +the volcanic eruption of February 1866.--(After Lyell.)] + +[Illustration: _Ground Plan of Rocca Monfina_ +Fig. 15.--Rocca Monfina, in Southern Italy, showing a crater-ring of +trachytic tuffs, from the midst of which, according to Judd, an andesite +lava-cone has been built up. Compare with the Santorin Group.] + +(_b._) _Origin of the Santorin Group._--In reference to the origin of +the Santorin group, Lyell regards it as a remnant of a great volcanic +mountain which possessed a focus of eruption rising in the position of +the present foci, but afterwards partially destroyed and the whole +submerged to a depth of over 1000 feet. But another explanation is open +to us, and one not inconsistent with what we now know of the physical +changes to which the Mediterranean has been subjected since early +Tertiary times. To my mind it is difficult to conceive how such a +volcanic mountain as that of Santorin could have been formed under +water; while, on the other hand, its physical structure and contour bear +so striking a resemblance (as already observed) to those of Vesuvius and +Rocca Monfina that we are much tempted to infer that it had a somewhat +similar origin. Now we know that Vesuvius was built up by means of +successive eruptions taking place under the air; and the question arises +whether it could be possible that Santorin had a similar origin owing to +the waters of the Mediterranean having been temporally lowered at a +later Tertiary epoch. It has been stated by M. Fouque that the age of +the more ancient volcanic beds of Santorin belong, as shown by the +included fossils, to the newer Pliocene epoch. These are of course the +unsubmerged, and therefore more recent strata, and may have been +recently upheaved during one or more of the outbursts of volcanic +energy. But it seems an impossibility that the Gulf of Santorin, with +its precipitous walls and deep circular interior channel, as shown by +the Ideal Section (Fig. 13), could have been formed otherwise than under +the air. We are led, therefore, to inquire whether there was a time in +the history of the Mediterranean, since the Eocene period, when the +waters were lower than at present. That this was the case we have clear +evidence. The remains of elephants, hippopotami, and other animals, +which have been discovered in great numbers in the Maltese caves, show +that this island was united to Sicily, and this again to Europe, during +the later Pliocene epoch, so as to have become the abode of an +Europasian fauna. According to Dr. Wallace, a causeway of dry land +existed, stretching from Italy to Tunis in North Africa through the +Maltese Islands--an inference involving the lowering of the waters of +the Mediterranean by several hundred feet.[2] There is every reason for +supposing that the old volcano of Santorin was in active eruption at +this period; and its history may be considered to be similar to that of +Vesuvius until, at the rising of the waters during the Pluvial (or +Post-Pliocene) epoch, during which they rose higher than at present, +Santorin was converted into a group of islands, slightly differing in +form from those of the present day. This view seems to meet the +difficulties regarding the origin of this group, difficulties which +Lyell had long since clearly recognised. + +(_c._) _Limit of the Mediterranean Volcanic Region._--With the Santorin +group we conclude our account of the active European volcanoes. It may +be observed, however, that from some cause not ascertained the volcanic +districts of the Mediterranean and its shores are confined to the north +side of that great inland sea; so that as regards vulcanicity the +African coast presents a striking contrast to that of the opposite side. +If we draw a line from the shores of the Levant to the Straits of +Gibraltar, by Candia, Malta, and to the south of Pantelleria and +Sardinia, we shall find that the volcanic islands and districts of the +mainland lie to the north of it.[3] This has doubtless some connection +with the internal geological structure. The immunity of the Libyan +desert from volcanic irruptions is in keeping with the remarkably +undisturbed condition of the Secondary strata, which seldom depart much +from the horizontal position; while the igneous rocks of the Atlas +mountains are probably of great geological antiquity. On the other hand, +the Secondary and Tertiary formations of the northern shores and islands +of the Mediterranean are generally characterised by the highly-inclined, +flexured, and folded position of the strata. Hence we may suppose that +the crust over the region lying to the north of the volcanic line, owing +to its broken and ruptured condition, was less able to resist the +pressure of the internal forces of eruption than that lying to the south +of it; and that, in consequence, vents and fissures of eruption were +established over the former of these regions, while they are absent in +the latter. + +[1] Fuller details will be found in Daubeny's _Volcanoes_, chap. xviii., +and Lyell's _Principles of Geology_, vol. ii. p. 65 (edition 1872). The +bird's-eye view is taken from this latter work by kind permission of the +publisher, Mr. J. Murray, as also the accompanying Ideal Section, Fig. +13. + +[2] Wallace, _Geographical Distribution of Animals_ (1876). The author's +_Sketch of Geological History_, p. 130 (Deacon & Co., 1887). + +[3] The _volcanic area_ lying to the north of this line will include +Sardinia, Sicily, Pantelleria, the Grecian Archipelago, Asia Minor, and +Syria; the _non-volcanic area_ lying to the south of this line will +include the African coast, Malta, Isles of Crete and Cyprus. The Isle of +Pantelleria is apparently just on the line, which, continued eastward, +probably follows the north coast of Cyprus, parallel to the strike of +the strata and of the central axis of that island.--See "Carte +Geologique de l'ile de Chypre, par MM. Albert Gaudry et Amedee Damour" +(1860). + + + + +CHAPTER V. + +EUROPEAN EXTINCT OR DORMANT VOLCANOES. + + +We are naturally led on from a consideration of the active volcanoes of +Europe to that of volcanoes which are either dormant or extinct in the +same region. Such are to be found in Italy, Central France, both banks +of the Rhine and Moselle, the Westerwald, Vogelsgebirge, and other +districts of Germany; in Hungary, Styria, and the borders of the Grecian +archipelago. But the subject is too large to be treated here in detail; +and I propose to confine my observations to some selected cases which +are to be found in Southern Italy, Central France, and the Rhenish +districts, where the volcanic features are of so recent an age as to +preserve their outward form and structure almost intact. + +(_a._) _Southern Italy._--Extinct volcanoes and volcanic rocks occupy +considerable tracts between the western flanks of the Apennines and the +Mediterranean coast in the Neapolitan and Roman States, forming the +remarkable group of the Phlegraean fields (Campi Phlegraei), with the +adjoining islands of Ischia, Procida, Nisida, Vandolena, Ponza, and +Palmarola; at Melfi and Avellino. All the region around Rome extending +along the western slopes of the Apennines from Velletri to Orvieto, +together with Mount Annato in Tuscany, is formed of volcanic material, +and the same may be said of a large part of the island of Sardinia. From +these districts I shall select some points which seem to be of special +interest. + +_Monte Nuovo and the Phlegraean Fields._--The tract of which this +celebrated district forms a part lies as it were in a bay of the +Apennine limestone of Jurassic age. The floor of this bay is composed of +puzzolana, a name given to beds of volcanic tuff of great thickness, and +rising into considerable hills in the vicinity of the city of Naples, +such as that of St. Elmo. Its composition is peculiar, as it is chiefly +formed of small pieces of pumice, obsidian, and trachyte, in beds +alternating with loam, ferriferous sand, and fragments of limestone. It +is evidently of marine formation, as Sir William Hamilton, Professor +Pilla, and others have detected sea-shells therein, of the genera +_Ostraea_, _Cardium_, _Pecten_ and _Pectunculus_, _Buccinum_, etc. It is +generally of a greyish colour, and sometimes sufficiently firm to be +used as a building stone. The Roman Campagna is largely formed of +similar materials, which were deposited at a time when the districts in +question were submerged, and matter was being erupted from volcanic +vents at various points around, and spread over the sea-bed. + +Such is the character of the general floor on which the more recent +crater-cones of this district have been built. These are numerous, and +all extinct with the exception of the Solfatara, near Puzzuoli, from +which gases mixed with aqueous vapour are continually being exhaled. The +gases consist of sulphuretted hydrogen mixed with a minute quantity of +muriatic acid.[1] This district is also remarkable for containing +several lakes occupying the interiors of extinct craters; amongst +others, Lake Avernus, which, owing to its surface having been darkened +by forests, and in consequence of the effluvia arising from its stagnant +waters, has had imparted to it a character of gloom and terror, so that +Homer in the _Odyssey_ makes it the entrance to hell, and describes the +visit of Ulysses to it. Virgil follows in his steps. Another lake of +similar origin is Lake Agnano. Here also is the Grotto del Cane, a +cavern from which are constantly issuing volumes of carbonic acid gas +combined with much aqueous vapour, which is condensed by the coldness of +the external air, thus proving the high temperature of the ground from +which the gaseous vapour issues. This whole volcanic region, so replete +with objects of interest,[2] may be considered, as regards its volcanic +character, in a moribund condition; but that it is still capable of +spasmodic movement is evinced by the origin of Monte Nuovo, the most +recent of the crater-cones of the district. This mountain, rising from +the shore of the Bay of Baiae, was suddenly formed in September 29th, +1538, and rises to a height of 440 feet above the sea-level. It is a +crater-cone, and the depth of the crater has been determined by the +Italian mineralogist Pini to be 421 English feet; its bottom is thus +only 19 feet above the sea-level. A portion of the base of the cone is +considered partly to occupy the site of the Lucrine Lake, which was +itself nothing more than the crater of a pre-existent volcano, and was +almost entirely filled up during the explosion of 1538. Monte Nuovo is +composed of ashes, lapilli, and pumice-stones; and its sudden formation, +heralded by earthquakes, and accompanied by the ejection of volcanic +matter mixed with fire and water, is recorded by Falconi, who vividly +depicts the terror and consternation of the inhabitants of the +surrounding country produced by this sudden and terrible outburst of +volcanic forces.[3] + +(_b._) _Central Italy and the Roman States._--The tract bordering the +western slopes of the Apennines northward from Naples into Tuscany, and +including the Roman States, is characterised by volcanic rocks and +physical features of remarkable interest and variety. These occur in the +form of extinct craters, sometimes filled with water, and thus converted +into circular lakes; or of extensive sheets and conical hills of tuff; +or, finally, of old necks and masses of trachyte and basalt, sometimes +exhibiting the columnar structure. The Eternal City itself is built on +hills of volcanic material which some observers have supposed to be the +crater of a great volcano; but Ponzi, Brocchi, and Daubeny all concur in +the opinion that this is not the case, as will clearly appear from the +following account. + +The geological structure of the valley of the Tiber at Rome is very +clearly described by Professor Ponzi in a memoir published in 1850, from +which the accompanying section is taken.[4] (Fig. 16.) From this it will +be seen that "the Seven-hilled City" is built upon promontories of +stratified volcanic tuff, of which the Campagna is formed, breaking off +along the banks of the Tiber, the hills being the result of the erosion, +or denudation, of the strata along the side of the river valley. As the +strata dip from west to east across the course of the river, it follows +that those on the western banks are below those on the opposite side; +and thus the marine sands and marls which underlie the volcanic tuff, +and are concealed by it along the eastern side of the valley, emerge on +the west, and form the range of hills on that side. Such being the +structure of the formations under Rome, it is evident that it is not +"built on a volcano." + +[Illustration: Fig. 16.--Geological Section across the Valley of the +Tiber at Rome. 1. Alluvium of the Tiber; 2. Diluvium; 3. Volcanic tuff +(recent deposits); 4. Sands, etc.; 5. Blue marl (sub-Apennine +deposits).] + +The tuff contains fragments of lava and pebbles of Apennine limestone, +and was deposited under the waters of an extensive lake at a time when +volcanic action was rife amidst the Alban Hills. This lacustrine +formation rests in turn on deposits of marine origin, containing +oysters, patellae, and other sea-shells, of which the chain of hills on +the right bank of the Tiber is chiefly formed. + +The district around Albano lying to the south of Rome is of peculiar +interest from the assemblage of old crater-lakes which it contains; as, +for instance, those of Albano, Vallariccia, Nemi, Juturna, and the lake +of Gabii. The lake of Albano, one of the most beautiful sheets of water +in the world, is about six miles in circumference, and surrounded by +beds of peperino, a variety of tuff presenting a bright, undecomposed +aspect when newly broken. The level of this lake was lowered by the +Romans during the siege of Veii by means of a tunnel, so that the waters +are 200 feet lower than the level at which they originally stood. In the +same district is the lake of Nemi, very regular in its circular outline; +that of Juturna lying near the foot of the Alban Hills, and that of +Ariccia lying in a deep hollow eight miles in circumference;--all may be +supposed to have been the craters of extinct volcanoes, both by reason +of their shape and of the materials of which they are formed. All these +old craters are, however, according to Daubeny, "only the dependencies +and offshoots, as it were, of the great extinct volcano, the traces of +which still remain upon the summit of the Alban Hills, and which is +comparable in its form to that of Vesuvius, as it is surrounded by an +outer circle of volcanic rock comparable to that of Somma."[5] + +To the north of the city of Rome are several crateriform lakes, some of +which are of great size, such as that of Bolsena, over twenty miles in +circumference, and the Lago di Bracciano, almost as large, and lying +about twelve miles from the city. These extensive sheets of water are +surrounded by banks of tuff and volcanic sand, in which fragments of +augite, leucite, and crystals of titanite are distributed. The town of +Viterbo is built up at the foot of a steep hill called Monte Cimini, the +lower part of which is composed of trachyte; this is surmounted by +tuff, which appears to have been ejected from an extinct crater +occupying the summit of the mountain, and now converted into a lake +called the Lake of Vico. This crater is perfectly circular, and from its +centre rises a little conical hill covered by trees. + +(_c._) _Physical History._--Space does not permit of a fuller +description of the remarkable volcanic features of the tract lying along +the western slope of the Apennines; but from what has been stated it +will be clear that volcanic forces have been in operation at one time on +a grand scale in the Roman States and the South of Tuscany, over a tract +extending from Mount Annato to Velletri and Segni. + +This tract was separated from that of the Neapolitan volcanic region by +a range of limestone hills of Jurassic age between Segni and Gaeta, a +protrusion of the Alban Hills westward; but the general structure and +physical history of both regions are probably very similar, with the +exception that the igneous forces still retain their vitality in the +more southerly region. In the case of the Roman volcanic district, a bay +seems to have been formed about the close of the Miocene period, bounded +on all sides but the west by hills of limestone, over whose bed strata +of marl, sandstone, and conglomerate were deposited. This tract was +converted by subsequent movements into a fresh-water lake, and +contemporaneously volcanic operations commenced over the whole region, +and beds of tuff, often containing blocks of rock ejected from +neighbouring craters, were deposited over those of marine origin. +Meanwhile numerous crater-cones were thrown up; and, as the land +gradually rose, the waters of the lake were drained off, leaving dry +the Campagna and plain of the Tiber. Ultimately the volcanic fires +smouldered down and died out, whether within the historic epoch or not +is uncertain; lakes were formed within the now dormant craters, and the +face of nature gradually assumed a more placid and less forbidding +aspect over this memorable region, destined to be the site of Rome, the +Mistress of the World. + +[1] As determined by Daubeny in 1825. + +[2] Including the ruins of the Temple of Serapis, whose pillars are +perforated by marine boring shells up to a height of about 16 feet from +their base; indicating that the land had sunk down beneath the sea, and +afterwards been elevated to its present level. + +[3] The account of Falconi, and another by Pietro Giacomo di Toledo, are +given by Sir W. Hamilton, _op. cit._, p. 198, and also reproduced by Sir +C. Lyell, _Principles_, vol. i. p. 608. + +[4] Guiseppe Ponzi, "Sulla storia fisica del Bacino di Roma," _Annali di +Scienze Fisiche_ (Roma, 1850). + +[5] Daubeny, _Volcanoes_, p. 171. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +EXTINCT VOLCANOES OF CENTRAL FRANCE. + + +(_a._) _General Structure of the Auvergne District._--From a granitic +and gneissose platform situated near the centre of France, and separated +from the western spurs of the Alps by the wide valley of the Rhone, +there rises a group of volcanic mountains surpassing in variety of form +and structure any similar mountain group in Europe, and belonging to an +epoch ranging from the Middle Tertiary down almost to the present day. +This volcanic group of mountains gives rise to several important rivers, +such as the Loire, the Allier, the Soule (a branch of the Loire), the +Creuse, the Dordogne, and the Lot; and in the Plomb du Cantal attains an +elevation of 6130 feet above the sea. Its southern section, that of Mont +Dore, the Cantal, and the Haute Loire, is characterised by magnificent +valleys, traversing plateaux of volcanic lava, and exhibiting the +results of river erosion on a grand scale; while its northern section, +that of the Puy de Dome, presents to us a varied succession of volcanic +crater-cones and domes, with their extruded lava-streams, almost as +fresh and unchanged in form as if they had only yesterday become +extinct. A somewhat similar, but less important, chain of extinct +volcanoes also occurs in the Velay and Vivarais, between the upper +waters of the Loire and the Allier, in the vicinity of the town of Le +Puy.[1] The principal city in this region is Clermont-Ferrand, lying +near the base of the Puy de Dome, and ever memorable as the birthplace +of Blaise Pascal.[2] + +[Illustration: Fig. 17.--Generalised Section through the Puy de Dome and +Vale of Clermont, distance about ten miles. The general floor formed of +granite and gneiss (G); D. Domite-lava of the Puy de Dome; Sc. Cones of +ashes and scoriae; L. Lava-sheets; A. Alluvium of the Vale of Clermont +and Lake deposits.] + +The physical structure of this region is on the whole very simple. The +fundamental rocks consist of granite and gneiss passing into schist, all +of extreme geological antiquity, forming a vast platform gradually +rising in a southerly direction towards the head waters of the Loire +and the Allier in the Departments of Haute Loire, Lozere, and Ardeche. +On this platform are planted the whole of the volcanic mountains. (See +Fig. 17.) + +The granitic plateau is bounded on the east, throughout a distance of +about 50 miles, by the wide and fertile plain of Clermont, watered by +the Allier and its numerous branches descending from the volcanic +mountains, and is about 25 miles in width from east to west in the +parallel of Clermont, but gradually narrowing in a southerly direction, +till at Brioude it becomes an ordinary mountain ravine. The eastern +margin of the plain is formed by another granitic ridge expanding into a +plateau towards the south, and joining in with that already described; +but towards the north and directly east of Clermont it forms a high +ridge traversed by the railway to St. Etienne and Lyons, and descending +towards the east into the valley of the Loire. No more impressive view +is to be obtained of the volcanic region than that from the summit of +this second ridge, on arriving there towards evening from the city of +Lyons. At your feet lies the richly-cultivated plain of Clermont, dotted +with towns, villages, and hamlets, and decorated with pastures, +orchards, vineyards, and numerous trees; while beyond rises the granitic +plateau, breaking off abruptly along the margin of the plain, and deeply +indented by the valleys and gorges along which the streams descend to +join the Allier. But the chief point of interest is the chain of +volcanic crater-cones and dome-shaped eminences which rise from the +plateau, amongst which the Puy de Dome towers supreme. Their individual +forms stand out in clear and sharp relief against the western sky, and +gradually fade away towards the south into the serried masses of Mont +Dore and Cantal, around whose summits the evening mists are gathering. +Except the first view of the Mont Blanc range from the crest of the +Jura, there is no scene perhaps which is calculated to impress itself +more vividly on the memory than that here faintly described.[3] + +[Illustration: Fig. 18.--Transverse view of the Puy de Dome and +neighbouring volcanoes from the Puy de Chopine.--(After Scrope.)] + +(_b._) _The Vale of Clermont._--The plain upon which we look down was +once the floor of an extensive lake, for it is composed of various +strata of sand, clay, marl, and limestone, containing various genera and +species of fresh-water shells. These strata are of great thickness, +perhaps a thousand feet in some places; and along with such shells as +_Paludina_, _Planorbis_, and _Limnaea_ are also found remains of various +other animals, such as fish, serpents, batrachians, crocodiles, +ruminants, and those of huge pachyderms, as _Rhinoceros_, _Dinotherium_, +and _Caenotherium_. This great lake, occupying a hollow in the old +granitic platform of Central France, must have been in existence for an +extensive period, which MM. Pomel, Aymard, and Lyell all unite in +referring to that of the Lower Miocene. But what is to us of special +interest is the fact that, in the deposits of this lake of the Haute +Loire, with the exception of the very latest, there is no intermixture +of volcanic products such as might have been expected to occur if the +neighbouring volcanoes had been in activity during its existence. Hence +it may be supposed that, as Scrope suggested, the waters of the lake +were drained off owing to the disturbance in the levels of the country +caused by the first explosions of the Auvergne volcanoes.[4] If this be +so, then we possess a key by which to determine the period of the first +formation of volcanoes in Central France; for, as the animal remains +enclosed in the lacustrine deposits of the Vale of Clermont belong to +the early Miocene stage, and the earliest traces of contemporaneous +volcanic _ejecta_ are found only in the uppermost deposits, we may +conclude that the first outburst of volcanic action occurred towards the +close of the Miocene period--a period remarkable for similar exhibitions +of internal igneous action in other parts of the world. + +(_c._) _Successive Stages of Volcanic Action in Auvergne._--The volcanic +region here described, which has an area of about one hundred square +miles, does not appear to have been at one and the same period of time +the theatre of volcanic action over its whole extent. On the contrary, +this action appears to have commenced at the southern border of the +region in the Cantal, and travelling northwards, to have broken out in +the Mont Dore region; finally terminating its outward manifestations +among the craters and domes of the Puy de Dome. In a similar manner the +volcanic eruptions of the Haute Loire and Ardeche, lying to the +eastward, and separated from those of the Cantal by the granitoid ridge +of the Montagnes de Margeride, belong to two successive periods +referable very closely to those of the Mont Dore and the Puy de Dome +groups.[5] The evidence in support of this view is very clear and +conclusive; for, while the volcanic craters formed of ash, lapilli, and +scoriae, together with the rounded domes of trachytic rock of which the +Puy de Dome group is composed, preserve the form and surface indications +of recently extinguished volcanoes, those which we may assume to have +been piled up in the region of Mont Dore and Cantal have been entirely +swept away by prolonged rain and river action, and the sites of the +ancient craters and cones of eruption are only to be determined by +tracing the great sheets of lava up the sides of the valleys to their +sources, generally situated at the culminating points of their +respective groups. Other points of evidence of the great antiquity of +the latter groups might be adduced from the extent of the erosion which +has taken place in the sheets of lava having their sources in the vents +of the Plomb du Cantal and of Mont Dore, owing to which, magnificent +valleys, many miles in length and hundreds of feet in depth, have been +cut out of these sheets of lava and their supporting rocks, whether +granitic or lacustrine, and the materials carried away by the streams +which flow along their beds. These points will be better understood when +I come to give an account of the several groups; and in doing so I will +commence with that of the Cantal.[6] + +(_d._) _The Volcanoes of the Cantal._--The original crater-cones of +this group have entirely disappeared throughout the long ages which have +elapsed since the lava-streams issued forth from their internal +reservoirs. The general figure of this group of volcanic mountains is +that of a depressed cone, whose sides slope away in all directions from +the central heights, which are deeply eroded by streams rising near the +apex and flowing downwards in all directions towards the circumference +of the mountain, where they enter the Lot, the Dordogne, and the Allier. +The orifice of eruption was situated at the Plomb du Cantal, formed of +solid masses of trachyte, which, owing, as Mr. Scrope supposes, to a +high degree of fluidity, were able to extend to great distances in +extensive sheets, and were afterwards covered by repeated and +widely-spread flows of basalt; so that the trachyte towards the margin +of the volcanic area becomes less conspicuous than the basalt by which +it is more or less concealed from view, or overlapped. Extensive beds of +tuff and breccia accompany the trachytic masses. + +Magnificent sections of the rocks are laid open to view along the sides +of the valleys, which are steep and rock-bound. Except towards the +south-west, about Aurillac, where lacustrine strata overlie the granite, +the platform from which rises the volcanic dome is composed of granitic +or gneissose rocks. Accompanying the lava-streams are great beds of +volcanic agglomerate, which Mr. Scrope considers to have been formed +contemporaneously with the lava which they envelop, and to be due to +torrents of water tumultuously descending the sides of the volcano at +periods of eruption, and bearing down immense volumes of its fragmental +_ejecta_ in company with its lava-streams.[7] Nowhere throughout this +region do beds of trachyte and basalt alternate with one another; in all +cases the basalt is the newer of the two varieties of rock, and this is +generally the case throughout the region here described. + +(_e._) _Volcanoes of Mont Dore._--This mountain lies to the north of +that of Cantal, and somewhat resembles it in general structure and +configuration. Like Cantal, it is destitute of any distinct crater; all +that is left of the central focus of eruption being the solidified +matter which filled the throat of the original volcano, and which forms +a rocky mass of lava, rising in its highest point, the Pic de Saucy, to +an elevation (as given by Ramond) of 6258 feet above the level of the +sea, thus exceeding that of the Plomb du Cantal by 128 feet. Its figure +will be best understood by supposing seven or eight rocky summits +grouped together within a circle of about a mile in diameter, from +whence, as from the apex of an irregular and flattened cone, all the +sides slope more or less rapidly downwards, until their inclination is +gradually lost in the plain around. This dome-shaped mass has been +deeply eroded on opposite sides by the valleys of the Dordogne and +Chambon; while it is further furrowed by numerous minor streams.[8] + +The great beds of volcanic rock, disposed as above stated, consist of +prodigious layers of scoriae, pumice-stones, and detritus, alternating +with beds of trachyte and basalt, which often descend in uninterrupted +currents till they reach the granite platform, and then spread +themselves for miles around. The sheets of basalt are found to stretch +to greater distances than those of trachyte, and have flowed as far as +15 or 20 miles from their orifices of eruption; while in some cases, on +the east and north sides, they have extended as far as 25 or 30 miles +from the central height. On the other hand, a radius of about ten miles +from the centre would probably include all the streams of trachyte;--so +much greater has been the viscosity of the basalt over the latter rock. +Some portions of these great sheets of lava, cut off by river valleys or +eroded areas from the main mass of which they once formed a part, are +found forming isolated terraces and plateaux either on the granitic +platform, or resting on the fresh-water strata of the valley of the +Allier, while in a northern direction they overspread a large portion of +the granitic plateau from which rise the Puy de Dome and associated +volcanic mountains. Still more remarkable are the cases in which these +lava-streams have descended into the old river channels which drained +the granitic plateau. Thus the current which took its origin in the Puy +Gros descended into the valley of the Dordogne, while another stream +invaded the gorge of Champeix on the eastern side. + +The more ancient lava-streams just described are invaded by currents and +surmounted by cones of eruption of more recent date, similar to those of +the Puy de Dome group lying to the northward. Such cones and currents, +amongst which are the Puy de Tartaret and that of Montenard, present +exactly the same characters as those of this group, to which we shall +return further on. + +(_f._) _Volcanoes of the Haute Loire and Ardeche._--Separated by the +valley of the Allier and the granitic ridge of La Margeride from the +volcanic regions of Cantal and Mont Dore is another volcanic region of +great extent, which reaches its highest elevation in the central points +of Mont Mezen, attaining an elevation (according to Cordier) of 5820 +feet, and formed of "clinkstone." The volcanic products of Mezen have +been erupted from one central orifice of vast size, and consist mainly +of extensive sheets of "clinkstone," a variety of trachytic lava, which +have taken courses mainly towards the north-west and south-east. These +great sheets, one of which appears to have covered a space more than 26 +miles in length with an average breadth of 6 miles, thus overspreading +an estimated area of 156 square miles, has been deeply eroded by streams +draining into the Loire, along whose banks the rocks tower in lofty +cliffs; while it has also suffered enormous denudation, by which +outlying fragments are disconnected from the main mass, and form +flat-topped hills and plateaux as far distant as Roche en Reigner and +Beauzac, at the extreme distance (as stated above) of 26 miles from the +source of eruption. + +But even more remarkable than the above are the vast basaltic sheets +which stretch away for a distance of 30 miles by Privas almost to the +banks of the Rhone, opposite Montlimart. These have their origin amongst +the clinkstone heights of Mont Mezen, and taking their course along the +granitic plateau in a south-easterly direction, ultimately pass over on +to the Jurassic and Cretaceous formations composing the plateau of the +Coiron, which break off in vertical cliffs from 300 to 400 feet in +height, surmounting the slopes that rise from the banks of the Ardeche +and Escourtais rivers near Villeneuve de Bere. This is probably one of +the most extensive sheets of basalt with which we are acquainted in the +European area, and it is only a remnant of a vastly greater original +sheet.[9] + +[Illustration: Fig. 19.--Mont Demise, near Le Puy, seen from the S.E. +(After Scrope.)--1. Building standing on old breccia, rocks of the Col; +2. Road to Brioude; 3. Croix de la Paille; 4. Orgue d'Expailly (basalt); +5. Spot where human bones were found.] + +(_g._) _Newer Volcanoes of the Haute Loire (the Velay and +Vivarais)._--Subsequently to the formation of the lava-streams above +described, and probably after the lapse of a lengthened period, the +region of the Haute Loire and Ardeche became the scene of a fresh +outburst of volcanic action, during which the surface of the older +lavas, or of the fundamental granite, was covered by numerous +crater-cones and lava-streams strewn along the banks of the Allier and +of the Loire for many miles. These cones and craters are not quite so +fresh as those of the Mont Dome group; those of the Haute Loire being +slightly earlier in point of time, and, as Daubeny shows, belonging to a +different system. So numerous are these more recent cones and craters +that Scrope counted more than 150 of them, and probably omitted many. + +The volcanic phenomena now described have a special interest as bearing +on the question whether man was an inhabitant of this region at the time +of these later eruptions. The question seems to be answered in the +affirmative by the discovery of a human skull and several bones in the +volcanic breccia of Mont Demise, in company with remains of the elephant +(_E. primigenius_), rhinoceros (_R. tichorhinus_), stag, and other large +mammifers. The discovery of these remains was made in the year 1844, and +the circumstances were fully investigated and reported upon by M. +Aymard, and afterwards by Mr. Poulett Scrope, upon whose mind no +possible doubt of the fact remained. From what we now know of the +occurrence of human remains and works of art in other parts of France +and Europe, no surprise need be felt at the occurrence of human remains +in company with some extinct mammalia in these volcanic tuffs, which +belong to the Post-Pliocene or superficial alluvia antecedent to the +historic period.[10] + +(_h._) _Mont Dome Chain._--We now come to the consideration of the most +recent of all the volcanic mountain groups of the region of Central +France, that of the Puy de Dome, lying to the north of Mont Dore and +Cantal. We have seen that there is almost conclusive evidence that man +was a witness to the later volcanic outbursts of the Vivarais, and as +these craters seem to be of somewhat earlier date than those of the Puy +de Dome group, we cannot doubt that they were in active eruption when +human beings inhabited the country, and not improbably within what is +known as the _Historic Period_. No mention, however, is made either by +Caesar, Pliny, or other Roman writers of the existence of active +volcanoes in this region. Caesar, who was a close observer, and who +carried the Roman arms into Auvergne, makes no mention of such; nor yet +does the elder Pliny, who enumerated the known burning mountains of his +day all over the Roman Empire. It is not till we come down to the fifth +century of our era that we find any notices which might lead us to infer +the existence of volcanic action in Central France. This is the +well-known letter written by Sidonius Apollonarius, bishop of Auvergne, +to Alcinus Avitus, bishop of Vienne, in which the former refers to +certain terrific terrestrial manifestations which had occurred in the +diocese of the latter. But, as Dr. Daubeny observes, this is no evidence +of volcanic action in Auvergne, where Sidonius himself resided; the +terrestrial disturbances above referred to may have been earthquake +shocks of extreme severity.[11] + +But although we have no reliably historical record of volcanic action +amongst the mountains of the Mont Dome group, the fact that these are, +comparatively, extremely recent will be evident to an observer visiting +this district, and this conclusion is based on three principal grounds: +first, because of the well-preserved forms of the original craters, +though generally composed of very loose material, such as ashes, +lapilli, and slag; secondly, because of the freshness of the +lava-streams over whose rugged surfaces even a scanty herbage has in +some places scarcely found a footing;[12] and thirdly, because the lava +from the crater-cones has invaded channels previously occupied by the +earlier lavas, or those which had been eroded since the overflow of the +great basaltic sheets of Mont Dore. Still, as in the case of the valleys +of Lake Aidot, of Channonat, and of Royat, these streams are +sufficiently ancient to have given time for the existing rivers to have +worn out in them channels of some depth, but bearing no comparison to +the great valleys which had been eroded out of the more ancient lavas, +such as those of the Coiron, of the Ardeche, and of the Dordogne and +Chambon in the district of Mont Dore. + +(_i._) _Dome-shaped Volcanic Hills._--I have previously (page 15) +referred to the two classes of volcanic eminences to be found in the +chain of the Puy de Dome; one indicated by the name itself, formed of a +variety of trachytic lava called "domite," and of the form of a dome; +the other, composed of fragmental matter piled up in the form of a +crater or cup, often ruptured on one side by a stream of lava which has +burst through the side, owing to its superior density. Of the former +class the Puy de Dome and the Grand Sarcoui (see Fig. 18) are the most +striking examples out of the five enumerated by Scrope, while there is a +large number, altogether sixty-one, belonging to the latter class. These +domes and crater-cones, as already stated, rise from a platform of +granite, either directly or from one formed of the lava-sheets of the +Mont Dore region, which in turn overlies the granitic platform. Of the +nearly perfect craters there are the Petit Puy de Dome, lying partially +against the northern flank of the greater eminence; the Puy de Cone, +remarkable for the symmetry of its conical form, rising to a height of +900 feet from the plain; and the Puys de Chaumont and Thiolet lying to +the north of the Puy de Dome. Of those to the south of this mount, two +out of the three craters of the Puy de Barme and the Puy de Vichatel are +perfect; but most of the crater-cones south of the Puy de Dome are +breached. Some of the lava streams by which these craters were broken +down flowed for long distances. That the lava followed the showers of +ashes and lapilli forming the walls of the craters is rendered very +evident in the case of the Puy de la Vache, whose lava-stream coalescing +with those from the Puy de la Solas and Puy Noir, deluged the +surrounding tracts and flowed down the Channonat Valley as far as La +Roche Blanc in the Vale of Clermont. In the interior of the upper part +of the crater still remaining may be seen the level (so to speak) to +which the molten lava rose before it burst its barrier. This level is +marked by a projecting platform of reddish or yellow material, rich in +specular iron, apparently part of the frothy scum which formed on the +surface of the lava and adhered to the side of the basin at the moment +of its being emptied. + +Space does not permit a fuller description of this remarkable assemblage +of extinct volcanoes, and the reader must be referred for further +details to the work of Mr. Scrope. I shall content myself with some +further reference to the central figure in this grand chain, the Puy de +Dome itself. + +_Ascent of the Puy de Dome._--On ascending by the winding path up the +steep side of the mount, and on reaching the somewhat flattened summit, +the first objects which strike the eye are the massive foundations of +the Roman temple of Mercury; they are hewn out of solid grey lava, +altogether different from the rock of the Puy de Dome itself, which must +have been obtained from one of the lava-sheets of the Mont Dore group. +To have carried these large blocks to their present resting-place must +have cost no little labour and effort. The temple is supposed to have +been surmounted by a colossal statue of the winged deity, visible from +all parts of the surrounding country which was dedicated to his honour, +and the foundations were only discovered a few years ago when excavating +for the foundation of the observatory, which stands a little further on +under the charge of Professor Janssen. On proceeding to the northern +crest of the platform a wonderful view of the extinct craters and +domes--about forty in number, and terminating in the Puy de Beauny, the +most northerly member of the chain--is presented to the spectator. To +the right is the Vale of Clermont and the rich valley of the Allier +merging into the great plain of Central France. On the south side of the +platform a no less remarkable spectacle meets the eye. The chain of Puys +and broken craters stretches away southwards for a distance of nearly +ten miles, while the horizon is bounded in that direction by the lofty +masses of the Mont Dore, Cantal, and Le Puy ranges. Nor does it require +much effort of the imagination to restore the character of the region +when these now dormant volcanoes were in full activity, projecting +showers of ashes and stones high into the air amidst flames of fire and +vast clouds of incandescent gas and steam. + +The material of which the Puy de Dome is formed consists of a light +grey, nearly white, soft felsitic lava, containing crystals of mica, +hornblende, and specular iron-ore. It is highly vesicular, and was +probably extruded in a pasty condition from a throat piercing the +granitic plateau and the overlying sheet of ancient lava of Mont Dore. +It has been suggested that such highly felsitic and acid lavas as that +of which the Puy de Dome, the Grand Sarcoui, and Cliersou are composed, +may have had their origin in the granite itself, melted and rendered +viscous by intense heat. Dr. E. Gordon Hull has suggested that the +domite hills (owing to their low specific gravity) may have filled up +pre-existing craters of ashes and scoriae without rupturing them, as in +the case of the heavier basaltic lavas, and then still continuing to be +extruded, may have entirely enveloped them in its mass; so that each +domite hill encloses within its interior a crater formed of ashes, +stones, and scoriae. In the case of the Puy de Dome there is some +evidence that the domite matter rests on a basis of ashes and scoriae, +which may be seen in a few places around the base of the cone. It is +difficult without some such theory as this to explain how a viscous mass +was able to raise mountains some 2000 or 3000 feet above the surrounding +plain.[13] + +(_j._) _Sketch of the Volcanic History of Central France._--It now only +remains to give a brief _resume_ of the volcanic history of this region +as it may be gathered from the relations of the rocks and strata to the +volcanic products, and of these latter to each other. + +_1st Stage._--It would appear that at the close of the Eocene period +great terrestrial changes occurred. The bed of the sea was converted +into dry land, the strata were flexured and denuded, and a depression +was formed in the granitic floor of Central France, which, in the +succeeding Miocene period, was converted into an extensive lake peopled +by molluscs, fishes, reptiles, and pachyderms of the period. + +_2nd Stage._--Towards the close of the Miocene epoch volcanic eruptions +commenced on a grand scale over the granitic platform in the districts +now called Mont Dore, Cantal, and the Vivarais. Vast sheets of trachytic +and basaltic lavas successively invaded the tracts surrounding the +central orifices of eruption, now constituting the more ancient of the +lava-sheets of the Auvergne region, and, invading the waters of the +neighbouring lake, overspread the lacustrine deposits which were being +accumulated therein. These volcanic eruptions probably continued +throughout the Pliocene period, interrupted by occasional intervals of +inactivity, and ultimately altogether ceased. + +_3rd Stage._--Towards the close of the Pliocene period terrestrial +movements took place, owing to which the waters of the lake began to +fall away, and the sheets of lava were subjected to great denudation. +This process, probably accelerated by excessive rainfall during the +succeeding Post-Pliocene and Pluvial periods, was continued until plains +and extensive river-valleys were eroded out of the sheets of lava and +their supporting granitic rocks and the adjoining lacustrine strata. + +_4th Stage._--A new outburst of volcanic forces marks this stage, during +which the chain of the Puy de Dome was thrown up on the west, and that +of the newer cones of the Vivarais on the south-east of the lacustrine +tract. The waters of the lake were now completely drained away through +the channel of the Allier, and denudation, extending down to the present +day, began over the area now forming the Vale of Clermont and adjoining +districts. The volcanic action ultimately spent its force; and somewhere +about the time of the appearance of man, the mammoth, rhinoceros, stag, +and reindeer on the scene, eruptions entirely ceased, and gradually the +region assumed those conditions of repose by which it is now physically +characterised. + +[1] The literature referring to this region is very extensive. Guettard +in 1775, afterwards Faujas, published descriptions of the rocks of the +Vivarais and Velay; and Desmarest's geological map, published in 1779, +is a work of great merit. The district was afterwards described by +Daubeny, Lyell, Von Buch, and others; but by far the most complete work +is that of Scrope, entitled _Volcanoes of Central France_, containing +maps and numerous illustrations, published in 1826, and republished in a +more extended form in 1858; to this I am largely indebted. + +[2] A monument to Pascal, erected by the citizens, occupies the centre +of the square in Clermont. It will be remembered that Pascal verified +the conclusions arrived at by Torricelli regarding the pressure of the +atmosphere, by carrying a Torricellian tube to the summit of the Puy de +Dome, and recording how the mercury continually fell during the ascent, +and rose as he descended. This experiment was made in 1645. + +[3] In this visit to Auvergne in the summer of 1880, the author was +accompanied by his son, Dr. E. Gordon Hull, and Sir Robert S. Ball. On +reaching the station at the summit of the ridge it seemed as if the +volcanic fires had again been lighted, for the whole sky was aglow with +the rays of the western sun. + +[4] On the other hand, certain beds of ash and other volcanic _ejecta_ +occur in _the uppermost_ strata of lake deposits of Limagne, so that +these may indicate the commencement of the period of eruption, as +suggested further on. + +[5] Only very closely; for Mr. Scrope considers that the crater-cones of +the chain of the Haute Loire give evidence of a somewhat earlier epoch +of activity than those of the Puy de Dome, as they have undergone a +greater amount of subaerial erosion. + +[6] The extent of this river erosion has been clearly brought out by +Scrope, and is admirably illustrated by several of his panoramic views, +such as that in Plate IX. of his work. + +[7] Scrope, _loc. cit._, p. 147. + +[8] Scrope, _loc. cit._, p. 144. + +[9] Scrope gives a view of these remarkable basaltic cliffs in Plate +XII. of his work, from which the above account is taken. At one spot +near the village of Le Gua there is a break in the continuity of the +sheet. + +[10] See Scrope, _loc. cit._, p. 181; also Appendix, p. 228. While there +is no _prima facie_ reason for questioning the origin of the Demise +skull, yet from what Lyell states in his _Antiquity of Man_, p. 196, it +will be seen that he found it impossible to identify its position, or to +determine beyond question that its interment was due to natural causes. +But assuming this to be the case, he shows how the individual to whom it +belonged might have been enveloped in volcanic tuff or mud showered down +during the final eruption of the volcano of Demise. MM. Hebert and +Lartet, on visiting the locality, also failed to find _in situ_ any +exact counterpart of the stone now in the museum of Le Puy. + +[11] See Daubeny, _Volcanoes_, p. 31. + +[12] That is to say, the surfaces of the lava-streams are not at all, or +only slightly, decomposed into soil suitable for the growth of plants, +except in rare instances. + +[13] E. G. Hull, "On the Domite Mountains of Central France," _Scien. +Proc. Roy. Dublin Society_, July 1881, p. 145. Dr. Hull determined the +density of the domite of the Puy de Dome to be 2.5, while that of lava +is about 3.0. + + + + +CHAPTER VII. + +THE VOLCANIC DISTRICT OF THE RHINE VALLEY. + + +The region bordering the Rhine along both its banks above Bonn, and +extending thence along the valley of the Moselle and into the Eifel, has +been the theatre of active volcanic phenomena down into recent times, +but at the present day the volcanoes are dormant or extinct. + +(_a._) _Geological Structure._--The fundamental rocks of this region +belong to the Silurian, Devonian, and Carboniferous systems, consisting +of schists, grits, and limestones, with occasional horizontal beds of +Miocene sandstone and shale with lignite, resting on the upturned edges +of the older rocks. Scattered over the greater part of the district here +referred to are a number of conical eminences, often with craters, the +bottoms of which are usually sunk much below the present level of the +country, and thus receiving the surface drainage, have been converted +into little lakes called "maars," differing from ordinary lakes by their +circular form and the absence of any _apparent_ outlet for their +waters.[1] + +But before entering into details, it may be desirable to present the +reader with a short outline of the physical history of the region (which +has been ably done by Dr. Hibbert in his treatise, to which I have +already referred), so as to enable him better to understand the +succession of physical events in its volcanic history. + +[Illustration: Fig. 20.--Sketch Map to show the physical condition of +the Rhenish area in the Miocene epoch.--(After Hibbert.)] + +(_b._) _Physical History._--From the wide distribution of stratified +deposits of sand and clay at high levels on both banks of the Rhine +north of the Moselle, it would appear that an extensive fresh-water +basin, which Dr. Hibbert calls "The Basin of Neuwied," occupied a +considerable tract on both banks, in the centre of which the present +city of Neuwied stands. This basin was bounded towards the south by the +slopes of the Huendsruck and Taunus, which at the time here referred to +formed a continuous chain of mountains. (Fig. 20.) To the south of this +chain lay the Tertiary basin of Mayence, which was connected at an early +period--that of the Miocene--with the waters of the ocean, as shown by +the fact that the lower strata contain marine shells; these afterwards +gave place to fresh-water conditions. The basin of Neuwied was bounded +towards the north by a ridge of Devonian strata which extended across +the present gorge of the Rhine between Andernach and Linz, and to the +north of this barrier lay another more extensive fresh-water basin, that +of Cologne. From this it will be seen that the Rhine, as we now find it, +had then only an infantile existence; in fact, its waters to the south +of the Huendsruck ridge drained away towards the south. But towards the +commencement of the Pliocene period the barriers of the Huendsruck and +Taunus, as also that of the Linz, were broken through, and the course of +the waters was changed; and thus gradually, as the river deepened its +bed, the waters were drained off from the great lakes.[2] This rupture +of the barriers may have been due, in the first instance, to the +terrestrial disturbances accompanying the volcanic eruptions of the +Eifel and Siebengebirge, though the erosion of the gorges at Bingen and +at Linz to their present depth and dimensions is of course due to +prolonged river action. It was about the epoch we have now arrived +at--viz., the close of the Miocene--that volcanic action burst forth in +the region of the Lower Rhine. It is probable that this action commenced +in the district of the Siebengebirge, and afterwards extended into that +of the Moselle and the Eifel, the volcanoes of which bear evidence of +recent date. Layers of trachytic tuff are interstratified with the +deposits of sand, clay, and lignite of the formation known as that of +the Brown Coal--of Miocene age--which underlies nearly the whole of the +volcanic district on both sides of the Rhine near Bonn,[3] thus showing +that volcanic action had already commenced in that part to some extent; +but it does not appear from Dr. Hibbert's statement that any such +fragments of eruptive rock are to be found in the strata which were +deposited over the floor of the Neuwied basin.[4] It will be recollected +that the epoch assigned for the earliest volcanic eruptions of Auvergne +was that here inferred for those of the Lower Rhine--viz., the close of +the Miocene stage--and from evidence subsequently to be adduced from +other European districts, it will be found that there was a very widely +spread outburst of volcanic action at this epoch. + +(_c._) _The Range of the Siebengebirge._--This range of hills--formed of +the older volcanic rocks of the Lower Rhine--rises along the right bank +of this noble river opposite Bonn, where it leaves the narrow gorge +which it traverses all the way from Bingen, and opens out on the broad +plain of Northern Germany. The range consists of a succession of conical +hills sometimes flat-topped--as in the case of Petersberg; and at the +Drachenfels, near the centre of the range it presents to the river a +bold front of precipitous cliffs of trachyte porphyry. The sketch (Fig. +21) here presented was taken by the author in 1857 from the old extinct +volcano of Roderberg, and will convey, perhaps, a better idea of the +character of this picturesque range than a description. The +Siebengebirge, although appearing as an isolated group of hills, is in +reality an offshoot from the range of the Westerwald, which is connected +with another volcanic district of Central Germany known as the +Vogelsgebirge. The highest point in the range is attained in the +Lohrberg, which rises 1355 feet above the sea; the next, the Great +Traenkeberg, 1330 feet; and the next, Great Oelberg, 1296 feet. + +[Illustration: Fig. 21.--The Volcanic Range of the Siebengebirge, seen +from the left bank of the Rhine, above Bonn.--(Original.)] + +The range consists mainly of trachytic rocks--namely, +trachyte-conglomerate, and solid trachyte, of which H. von Dechen makes +two varieties--that of the Drachenfels, and that of the Wolkenburg. But +associated with these highly-silicated varieties of lava--and generally, +if not always, of later date--are basaltic rocks which cap the hills of +Petersberg, Nonnenstrom, Gr. and Ll. Oelberg, Gr. Weilberg, and Ober +Dollendorfer Hardt. The question whether there is a transition from the +one variety of volcanic rock into the other, or whether each belongs to +a distinct and separate epoch of eruption, does not seem to be very +clearly determined. Mr. Leonard Horner states that it would be easy to +form a suite of specimens showing a gradation from a white trachyte to a +black basalt;[5] but we must recollect that when Mr. Horner wrote, the +microscopic examination of rocks by means of thin sections was not known +or practised, and an examination by this process might have proved that +this apparent transition is unreal. According to H. von Dechen, there +are sheets of basalt older than the greater mass of the brown coal +formation, and others newer than the trachyte;[6] while dykes of basalt +traversing the trachytic lavas are not uncommon.[7] + +The trachyte-conglomerate--which seems to be associated with the upper +beds of the brown coal strata--is traversed by dykes of trachyte of +later date; and though it is difficult to trace the line between the two +varieties of this rock on the ground, Dr. von Rath has recognised the +general distinction between them, which consists in the greater +abundance of hornblende and mica in the trachyte of the Wolkenburg than +in that of the Drachenfels. + +The trachyte of the Drachenfels was probably the neck of a volcano which +burst through the fundamental schists of the Devonian period. It is +remarkable for the large crystals of sanidine (glassy felspar) which it +contains, and has a rude columnar structure. + +The absence of any clearly-defined craters of eruption, such as are to +be found in the Eifel district and on the left bank of the Rhine--as, +for example, in the case of the Roderberg--may be regarded as sufficient +evidence that this range is of comparatively high antiquity. It seems to +bear the same relation to the more modern craters of the Eifel and +Moselle that the Mont Dore and Cantal volcanoes do to those of the Puy +de Dome. In both cases, denudation carried on throughout perhaps the +Pliocene and Post-Pliocene periods down to the present day has had the +effect of demolishing the original craters; so that what we now observe +as forming these ranges are the consolidated columns of original molten +matter which filled the throats of the old volcanoes, or the sheets of +lava which were extruded from them, but are now probably much reduced in +size and extent. + +Having thus given a description of the older volcanic range on the right +bank of the Rhine, we shall cross the river in search of some details +regarding the more recent group of Rhenish volcanoes, commencing with +that of the Roderberg, a remarkable hill a few miles south of Bonn, from +which the view of the Seven Mountains was taken. + +[Illustration: Fig. 22.--Section of the extinct crater of the Roderberg +on the bank of the Rhine, above Bonn.--(Original.)] + +(_d._) _The Roderberg._--This crater, which was visited by the author in +1857, is about one-fourth of a mile in diameter, and is in the form of a +cup with gentle slopes on all sides. In its centre is a farmhouse +surrounded by corn-fields. The general section through the hill is +represented above (Fig. 22). + +The flanks on the north side are composed of loose quartzose gravel +(gerolle), a remnant of the deposits formed around the margin of the +"Basin of Neuwied" described above (p. 114). This gravel is found +covering the terraces of the brown coal formation several hundred feet +above the Rhine. Besides quartz-pebbles, the deposit contains others of +slate, grit, and volcanic rock. On reaching the edge of the crater we +find the gravel covered over by black and purple scoria or slag the +superposition of the scoria on the gravel being visible in several +places, showing that the former is of more recent origin. On the +opposite side of the crater, overlooking the Rhine, we find the cliff of +Rolandsec composed of hard vesicular lava, rudely prismatic, and +extending from the summit of the hill to its base, about 250 feet below. +This is the most northerly of the group of the Eifel volcanoes. + +(_e._) _District of the Rivers Bruehl and Nette._--The volcanic region of +the Lower Eifel, drained by these two principal streams which flow into +the Rhine, will amply repay exploration by the student of volcanic +phenomena, owing to the variety of forms and conditions under which +these present themselves within a small space. The fundamental rock is +slate or grit of Devonian age, furrowed by numerous valleys, often +richly wooded, and diversified by conical hills of trachyte; or by +crater-cones, formed of basalt or ashes, sometimes ruptured on one side, +and occasionally sending forth streams of lava, as in the cases of the +Perlinkopf, the Bausenberg, and the Engelerkopf. The district attains +its greatest altitude in the High Acht (Der Hohe Acht), an isolated cone +of slate capped by basalt with olivine, and reaching a level of 2434 +Rhenish feet.[8] + +(_f._) _The Laacher See._--It would be impossible in a work of this kind +to attempt a detailed description of the Eifel volcanoes, often of a +very complex character and obscure physical history, as in the case of +the basin of Rieden, where tufaceous deposits, trachytic and basaltic +lavas and crater-cones, are confusedly intermingled, so that I shall +confine my remarks to the deservedly famous district of the Laacher +See, which I had an opportunity of personally visiting some years +since.[9] + +[Illustration: Fig. 23.--Plan and Section of the Laacher See, a lake on +the borders of the Eifel, occupying the crater of an old volcano.--G. +Gravel and volcanic sand forming banks of the lake and rim of old +crater; L. Sheet of trachytic lava with columnar structure; B. Basaltic +dyke; S. Devonian slate, etc.] + +The Laacher See is a lake of an oval form, over an English mile in the +shorter diameter, and surrounded by high banks of volcanic sand, gravel, +and scoriae, except on the east side, where cliffs of clay-slate, in a +nearly vertical position, and striking nearly E.W., may be observed. Its +depth from the surface of the water is 214 feet.[10] The ashes of the +encircling banks contain blocks of slate and lava which have been torn +from the sides of the orifice or neck of the volcano and blown into the +air; and there can be no doubt that the ashes and volcanic gravel is the +result of very recent eruptions. + +At the east side of the lake we find a stream of scoriaceous lava of a +purple or reddish colour, highly vesicular, and containing crystals of +mica; but the most important lava-stream is that which has taken a +southerly direction from the crater of the Laacher See towards Nieder +Mendig and Mayen, for a distance of about six miles. This great stream +is covered throughout half its distance by beds of volcanic ash and +lapilli, but emerges into the air at a distance of about two miles from +the edge of the crater (see Fig. 23), and was formerly extensively +quarried in underground caverns for millstones. Here the rock is a +vesicular trachyte, of a greyish colour, solidified in vertical columns +of hexagonal form, about four feet in diameter, and traversed by +transverse joint planes. These quarries have been worked from the time +of the Roman occupation of the country; and, before the introduction of +iron or steel rollers for grinding corn, millstones were exported to all +parts of Europe and the British Isles from this quarry.[11] + +The district around the Laacher See is covered by laminated _ejecta_ of +the old volcano, probably of subaerial origin, through which bosses of +the fundamental slate peer up at intervals, while the surface is +diversified by several truncated cones. + +(_g._) _Trass of the Bruehl Valley._--The Bruehl Valley, which unites +with that of the Rhine at the town of that name, and drains the northern +side of the volcanic region, has always been regarded with much interest +by travellers for the presence of a deposit of "trass" with which it is +partially filled. The origin of this valley was pre-volcanic, as it is +hewn out of the slaty rocks of the district. But at a later period it +became filled with volcanic mud (tuffstein), out of which the stream has +made for itself a fresh channel. The source of this mud is considered by +Hibbert[12] to have been the old volcano of the Lummerfeld, which, after +becoming dormant, was filled with water, and thus became a lake. At a +subsequent period, however, a fresh eruption took place near the edge of +the lake, resulting in the remarkable ruptured crater known as the +Kunkskoepfe, which rises about four miles to the north of the Laacher +See. The eruptions of this volcano appear to have displaced the mud of +the Lummerfeld, causing it to flow down into the deep gorge of the +Bruehl, which it completely filled, as stated above. + +On walking down the valley one may sometimes see the junction of the +tuff with the slate-rock which enfolds it. The tuff consists of white +felspathic mud, with fragments of slate and lava, reaching a depth in +some places of 150 feet. After it has been quarried it is ground in +mills, and used for cement stone under the name of _trass_. It is said +to resemble the volcanic mud by which Herculaneum was overwhelmed during +the first eruption of Vesuvius, and which was produced by the torrents +of rain mixing with the ashes as they were blown out of the volcano. + +Sufficient has probably now been written regarding the dormant, or +recently extinct, volcanic districts of Europe to give the reader a +clear idea regarding their nature and physical structure. Other +districts might be added, such as those of Central Germany, Hungary, +Transylvania, and Styria; but to do so would be to exceed the proposed +limits of this work; and we may therefore pass on to the consideration +of the volcanic region of Syria and Palestine, which adjoins the +Mediterranean district we have considered in a former page. + +[1] Daubeny, _loc. cit._, p. 71. The geology of this region has had many +investigators, of whom the chief are Steininger, _Erloschenen Vulkane in +der Eifel_ (1820); Hibbert, _Extinct Volcanoes of the Basin of Neuwied_, +1832; Noeggerath, _Das Gebirge im Rheinland_, etc., 4 vols.; Horner, "On +the Geology of Bonn," _Transactions of the Geological Society, London_, +vol. iv. + +[2] The views of Dr. Hibbert are not inconsistent with those of the late +Sir A. Ramsay, on "The Physical History of the Valley of the Rhine," +_Quart. Jour. Geol. Soc._, vol. xxx. (1874). + +[3] Von Dechen, _Geog. Beschreib. des Siebengebirges am Rhein_ (Bonn, +1852). + +[4] Hibbert, _loc. cit._, p. 18. + +[5] Horner, "Geology of Environs of Bonn," _Transactions of the +Geological Society_, vol. iv., new series. + +[6] H. von Dechen, _Geog. Fuehrer in das Siebengebirge am Rhein_ (Bonn, +1861). + +[7] _Ibid._, p. 191. + +[8] Dr. Hibbert's work is illustrated by very carefully drawn and +accurate views of some of the old cones and craters of this district, +accompanied by detailed descriptions. + +[9] The lava of Schorenberg, near Rieden, is interesting from the fact, +stated by Zirkel, that it contains leucite, nosean, and nephelin.--_Die +Mikros. Beschaf. d. Miner. u. Gesteine_, p. 154 (1873). + +[10] Hibbert, _loc. cit._, p. 23. + +[11] At the time of the author's visit the underground caverns, which +are deliciously cool in summer, were used for the storage of the +celebrated beer brewed by the Moravians of Neuwied. + +[12] Hibbert, _loc. cit._, p. 129. + + + + +PART III. + +DORMANT OR MORIBUND VOLCANOES OF OTHER PARTS OF THE WORLD. + + + + +CHAPTER I. + +DORMANT VOLCANOES OF PALESTINE AND ARABIA. + + +(_a._) _Region east of the Jordan and Dead Sea._--The remarkable line of +country lying along the valley of the Jordan, and extending into the +great Arabian Desert, has been the seat of extensive volcanic action in +prehistoric times. The specially volcanic region seems to be bounded by +the depression of the Jordan, the Dead Sea, and the Arabah as far south +as the Gulf of Akabah; for, although Safed, lying at the head of the Sea +of Galilee on the west of the Jordan valley, is built on a basaltic +sheet, and is in proximity to an extinct crater, its position is +exceptional to the general arrangement of the volcanic products which +may be traced at intervals from the base of Hermon into Central Arabia, +a distance of about 1000 miles.[1] + +The tract referred to has been described at intervals by several +authors, of whom G. Schumacher,[2] L. Lartet,[3] Canon Tristram,[4] M. +Niebuhr,[5] and C. M. Doughty[6] may be specially mentioned in this +connection. + +The most extensive manifestations of volcanic energy throughout this +long tract of country appear to be concentrated at its extreme limits. +At the northern extremity the generally wild and rugged tract of the +Jaulan and Hauran, called in the Bible _Trachonitis_, and still farther +to the eastward the plateau of the Lejah, with its row of volcanic peaks +sloping down to the vast level of Bashan, is covered throughout nearly +its whole extent by great sheets of basaltic lava, above which rise at +intervals, and in very perfect form, the old crater-cones of eruption. A +similar group of extinct craters with lava-flows has been described and +figured by a recent traveller, Mr. C. M. Doughty, in parts of Central +Arabia. The general resemblance of these Arabian volcanoes to those of +the Jaulan is unquestionable; and as they are connected with each other +by sheets of basaltic lava at intervals throughout the land of Moab, it +is tolerably certain that the volcanoes lying at either end of the chain +belong to one system, and were contemporaneously in a state of activity. + +(_b._) _Geological Conditions._--Before entering any further into +particulars regarding the volcanic phenomena of this region, it may be +desirable to give a short account of its geological structure, and the +physical conditions amongst which the igneous eruptions were developed. + +Down to the close of the Eocene period the whole region now under +consideration was occupied by the waters of the ocean. The mountains of +Sinai were islands in this ocean, which had a very wide range over parts +of Asia, Africa, and Europe. But at the commencement of the succeeding +Miocene stage the crust was subjected to lateral contraction, owing to +which the ocean bed was upraised. The strata were flexured, folded, and +often faulted and fissured along lines ranging north and south, the +great fault of the Jordan-Arabah valley being the most important. At +this period the mountains of the Lebanon, the table-lands of Judaea and +of Arabia, formed of limestone, previously constituting the bed of the +ocean during the Eocene and Cretaceous periods, were converted into land +surfaces. Along with this upheaval of the sea-bed there was extensive +denudation and erosion of the strata, so that valleys were eroded over +the subaerial tracts, and the Jordan-Arabah valley received its primary +form and outline. + +Up to this time there does not appear to have been any outbreak of +volcanic forces; but with the succeeding Pliocene period these came into +play, and eruptions of basaltic lava took place along rents and fissures +in the strata, while craters and cones of slag, scoriae, and ashes were +thrown up over the region lying to the east of the Sea of Galilee and +the sources of the Jordan on the one hand, and the central parts of the +great Arabian Desert on the other. These eruptions, probably +intermittent, continued into the succeeding Glacial or Pluvial period, +and only died out about the time that the earliest inhabitants appeared +on the scene. + +(_c._) _The Jaulan and Hauran._--This tract is bounded by the valley of +the Jordan and the Sea of Galilee on the west, from which it rises by +steep and rocky declivities into an elevated table-land, drained by the +Yarmuk (Hieromax), the Nahr er Rukkad, and other streams, which flow +westwards into the Jordan along deep channels in which the basaltic +sheets and underlying limestone strata are well laid open to view. + +On consideration it seems improbable that the great sheets of augitic +lava, such as cover the surface of the land of Bashan, are altogether +the product of the volcanic mountains which appear to be confined to +special districts in this wide area. Some of the craters do indeed send +forth visible lava-streams, but they are insignificant as compared with +the general mass of the plateau-basalts; and the crater-cones themselves +appear in some cases to be posterior to the platforms of basalt from +which they rise. It is very probable, therefore, that the lavas of this +region have, in the main, been extruded from fissures of eruption at an +early period, and spread over the surface of the country in the same +manner as those of the Snake River region, and the borders of the +Pacific Ocean of North America, and possibly of the Antrim Plateau in +Ireland, afterwards to be described. + +The volcanic hills which rise above the plateau are described in detail +by Schumacher. Of these, Tell Abu Nedir is the largest in the Jaulan. It +reaches an elevation of 4132 feet above the Mediterranean Sea, and 1710 +feet above the plain from which it rises; the circumference of its base +is three miles, and the rim of the crater itself, which is oval in form, +is 1331 yards in its larger diameter. The interior is cultivated by +Circassians, and is very fruitful; the walls descend at an angle of +about 30 deg. on the inside, the exterior slope of the mountain being about +22 deg.. The cone seems to be formed chiefly of scoriae, and the lava-stream, +which issues forth from the interior, forms a frightfully stony and +lacerated district.[7] + +[Illustration: Fig. 24.--Extinct Craters in the Jaulan, north-east from +the Sea of Galilee, called Tell Abu en Neda and Tell el Uram, with a +central cone.--(After Schumacher.)] + +Another remarkable volcano is the Tell Abu en Neda (Fig. 24). This is a +double crater, with a cone (probably of cinders) rising from the +interior of one of them. The highest point of the rim of one of the +craters reaches a level of 4042 feet above the sea. A lava-stream issues +forth from Abu en Neda, and unites with another from a neighbouring +volcano. + +Tell el Ahmar is a ruptured crater of imposing aspect, reaching an +elevation of 4060 feet, and sending forth a lava-current, which falls in +regular terraces from the outlet towards the west and north. + +The ruptured crater of Tell el Akkasheh, which reaches a height of 3400 +feet, has a less forbidding aspect than the greater number of the +extinct volcanoes of this region, owing to the fact that its sides are +covered by oaks, which attain to magnificent proportions along the +summit. Numerous other volcanic hills occur in this district, but the +most remarkable is that called Tell el Farras (the Hill of the Horse). +It is an isolated mountain, visible from afar, and reaches an elevation +of 3110 feet, or nearly 800 feet above the surrounding plain. The oval +crater of this volcano opens towards the north, and has a depth of 108 +feet below the edge, with moderately steep sloping sides (17 deg.-32 deg.), +while the slope of the exterior, at first steep, gradually lessens to +20 deg.-21 deg.. These slopes are covered with reddish or yellowish slag. The +above examples will probably suffice to afford the reader a general idea +of the size and form of the volcanoes in this little known region. + +It has been stated above that the great lava-floods have probably been +poured forth intermittently. The statement receives confirmation from +the observations of Canon Tristram, made in the valley of the Yarmuk.[8] +This impetuous torrent rushes down a gorge, sometimes having limestone +on one side and a wall of basalt on the other. This is due to the fact +that the river channel had been eroded before the volcanic eruptions had +commenced; but on the lava-stream reaching the channel, it naturally +descended towards the valley of the Jordan along its bed, displacing the +river, or converting it into clouds of steam. Subsequently the river +again hewed out its channel, sometimes in the lava, sometimes between +this rock and the chalky limestone. But, in addition to this, it has +been observed that there is a bed of river gravel interposed between two +sheets of basalt in the Yarmuk ravine; showing that after the first flow +of that molten rock the river reoccupied its channel, which was +afterwards invaded by another molten lava-stream, into which the waters +have again furrowed the channel which they now occupy. The basaltic +sheets descend under the waters of the Sea of Galilee on the east side, +and were probably connected with those of Safed, crossing the Jordan +valley north of that lake; owing to this the waters of the Lake of Merom +(Huleh) were pent up, and formerly covered an extensive tract, now +formed of alluvial deposits. + +(_d._) _Land of Moab._--Proceeding southwards into the Land of Moab, the +volcanic phenomena are here of great interest. Extensive sheets of +basaltic lava, described as far back as 1807 by Seetzen, and more +recently by Lartet and Tristram, are found at intervals between the +Wadies Mojib (Arnon) and Haidan. On either side of the Mojib, cliffs of +columnar basalt are seen capping the beds of white Cretaceous limestone, +while a large mass has descended into the W. Haidan between cliffs of +limestone and marl on either hand. + +Around Jebel Attarus--a dome-shaped hill of limestone--a sheet of +basaltic lava has been poured, and has descended the deep gorge of the +Zerka Main, which enters the Dead Sea some 2000 feet below. This gorge +had been eroded before the basaltic eruption, so that the stream of +molten lava took its course down the bed of this stream to the water's +edge, and grand sections have been laid bare by subsequent erosion along +the banks. Pentagonal columns of black basalt form perpendicular walls, +first on one side, then on the other; while considerable masses of +scoriae, peperino, and breccia appear at the head of the glen, probably +marking the orifice of eruption. Other eruptions of basalt occur, one at +Mountar ez Zara, to the south of Zerka Main, and another at Wady +Ghuweir, near the north-eastern end of the Dead Sea. There are no +lava-streams on the western side of the Ghor, or of the Dead Sea.[9] + +The outburst of the celebrated thermal springs of Callirrhoe, together +with nine or ten others, along the channel of the Zerka Main, is a +circumstance which cannot be dissociated from the occurrence of basaltic +lava at this spot. In a reach of three miles, according to Tristram, +there are ten principal springs, of which the fifth in descent is the +largest; but the seventh and eighth, about half a mile lower down, are +the most remarkable, giving forth large supplies of sulphurous water. +The tenth and last is the hottest of all, indicating a temperature of +143 deg. Fahr. Thus it would appear that the heat increases with the depth +from the upper surface of the table-land; a result which might be +expected, supposing the heated volcanic rocks to be themselves the +source of the high temperature. To a similar cause may be attributed the +hot-springs of Hammath, near Tiberias, and those of the Yarmuk near its +confluence with the Jordan. Some of these and other springs break out +along, or near, the line of the great Jordan-Arabah fault which ranges +throughout the whole extent of this depression, from the base of Hermon +to the Gulf of Akabah, generally keeping close to the eastern margin of +the valley. + +(_e._) _The Arabian Desert._--The basaltic lava-floods occupy a very +large extent of the Arabian Desert, from El Hisma (lat. 27 deg. 35' N.) to +the neighbourhood of Mecca on the south, a distance of about 440 miles, +with occasional intervals. The lava-sheets are called "Harras" (or +"Harrat"), one of which, Harrat Sfeina, terminates about ten miles north +of Mecca. The lava-sheets rest sometimes on the red sandstone, at other +times, on the granite and other crystalline rocks of great geological +antiquity. In addition to the sheets of basalt, numerous crater-cones +rise from the basaltic platform at a level of 5000 feet above the sea, +and two volcanic mountains, rising far to the west of the principal +range, called respectively Harrat Jeheyma and H. Rodwa, almost overlook +the coast of the Red Sea.[10] + +(_f._) _Age of the Volcanic Eruptions._--It is very clear that the first +eruptions, producing the great basaltic sheets of Moab and Arabia, +occurred after the principal features of the country had been developed. +The depression of the Jordan-Arabah valley, the elevation of the eastern +side of this valley along the great fault line, and the channels of the +principal tributary streams, such as those of the Yarmuk and Zerka Main, +all these had been eroded out before they were invaded by the molten +streams of lava. Now, as these physical features were developed and +sculptured out during the Miocene period, as I have elsewhere shown to +be the case,[11] we may with great probability refer the volcanic +eruptions to the geological epoch following--namely, the Pliocene. How +far downwards towards the historic period the eruptions continued is not +so certain. Dr. Daubeny, quoting several passages from the Old Testament +prophets,[12] says it might be inferred that volcanoes were in activity +even so late as to admit of their being included within the limits of +authentic history. The poetic language and imagery used in these +passages by the prophets certainly lends a probability to this view, but +nothing more. On the other hand, these regions have suffered through +many centuries from the secondary effects of seismic action and +subterranean forces, and earthquake shocks have laid in ruins the great +temples and palaces of Palmyra, Baalbec, and other cities of antiquity. +The same uncertainty regarding the time at which volcanic action died +out, with reference to the appearance of man on the scene, hangs over +the region of Arabia and Syria, as we have seen to be the case in +reference to the extinct volcanoes of Auvergne, the Eifel, and the Lower +Rhine. In all these cases the commencement and close of eruptive action +appear to have been very much about the same period--namely, the Miocene +period on the one hand, and that at which man entered upon the scene on +the other; but in the case of Syria and Western Palestine, the close of +the volcanic period may have been somewhat more than 2000 B.C. + +[1] Lake Phiala, near the Lake of Huleh, is also situated to the west of +the Jordan valley. Its origin, according to Tristram, is volcanic. + +[2] Schumacher, "The Jaulan," _Quarterly Statement of the Palestine +Exploration Fund_, 1886 and 1888; and _Across the Jordan_, London, 1886. + +[3] Lartet, _Voyage d'Exploration de la mer Morte_ (Geologie), Paris, +1880. + +[4] Tristram, _Land of Moab_, London, 1873; and _Land of Israel_, 1866. + +[5] Niebuhr, _Beschreibung von Arabien_, 1773. + +[6] C. M. Doughty, _Arabia Deserta_, 2 vols., 1888. A generalised +account of this volcanic region by the author will be found in the +"Memoir on the Physical Geology of Arabia Petraea, and Palestine," +_Palestine Exploration Fund_, 1887. + +[7] Schumacher, _loc. cit._, p. 248. + +[8] _Land of Israel_, p. 461. + +[9] "Geology of Arabia Petraea, and Palestine," _Memoirs of the Palestine +Exploration Fund_, p. 95. + +[10] Doughty, _loc. cit._, vol. i., plate vi., p. 416. An excellent +geological sketch map accompanies this work. + +[11] "Memoir of the Geology of Arabia Petraea, and Palestine," chap. vi. +p. 67. + +[12] Nahum, i. 5, 6; Micah, i. 3, 4; Isaiah, lxiv. 1-3; Jeremiah, l. 25. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +THE VOLCANIC REGIONS OF NORTH AMERICA. + + +(_a._) _Contrast between the Eastern and Western Regions._--In no point +is there a more remarkable contrast between the physical structure of +Eastern and Western America than in the absence of volcanic phenomena in +the former and their prodigious development in the latter. The great +valley of the Mississippi and its tributaries forms the dividing +territory between the volcanic and non-volcanic areas; so that on +crossing the high ridges in which the western tributaries of America's +greatest river have their sources, and to which the name of the "Rocky +Mountains" more properly belongs, we find ourselves in a region which, +throughout the later Tertiary times down almost to the present day, has +been the scene of volcanic operations on the grandest scale; where +lava-floods have been poured over the country through thousands of +square miles, and where volcanic cones, vying in magnitude with those of +Etna, Vesuvius, or Hecla, have established themselves. This region, +generally known as "The Great Basin," is bounded on the west by the +"Pacific Range" of mountains, and includes portions of New Mexico, +Arizona, California, Nevada, Utah, Colorado, Idaho, Oregon, Wyoming, +Montana, and Washington. To the south it passes into the mountainous +region of Mexico, also highly volcanic; and thence into the ridge of +Panama and the Andes. It cannot be questioned but that the volcanic +nature of the Great Basin is due to the same causes which have +originated the volcanic outbursts of the Andes; but, from whatever +cause, the volcanic forces have here entered upon their secondary or +moribund stage. In the Yellowstone Valley, geysers, hot springs, and +fumaroles give evidence of this condition. In other districts the +lava-streams are so fresh and unweathered as to suggest that they had +been erupted only a few hundred years ago; but no active vent or crater +is to be found over the whole of this wide region. A few special +districts only can here be selected by way of illustration of its +special features in connection with its volcanic history. + +(_b._) _The Plateau Country of Utah and Arizona._--This tract, which is +drained by the Colorado River and its tributaries, is bounded on the +north by the Wahsatch range, and extends eastwards to the base of the +Sierra Nevada. Round its margin extensive volcanic tracts are to be +found, with numerous peaks and truncated cones--the ancient craters of +eruption--of which Mount San Francisco is the culminating eminence. +South of the Wahsatch, and occupying the high plateaux of Utah, enormous +masses of volcanic products have been spread over an area of 9000 square +miles, attaining a thickness of between 3000 and 4000 feet. The earlier +of these great lava-floods appear to have been trachytic, but the later +basaltic; and in the opinion of Captain Dutton, who has described them, +they range in point of time from the Middle Tertiary (Miocene) down to +comparatively recent times. + +(_c._) _The Grand Canyon._--To the south of the high plateaux of Utah +are many minor volcanic mountains, now extinct; and as we descend +towards the Grand Canyon of Colorado we find numerous cinder-cones +scattered about at intervals near the cliffs.[1] Extensive lava-fields, +surmounted by cinder-cones, occupy the plateau on the western side of +the Grand Canyon; and, according to Dutton, the great sheets of basaltic +lava, of very recent age, which occupy many hundred square miles of +desert, have had their sources in these cones of eruption.[2] Crossing +to the east of the Grand Canyon, we find other lava-floods poured over +the country at intervals, surmounted by San Francisco--a volcanic +mountain of the first magnitude--which reaches an elevation, according +to Wheeler, of 12,562 feet above the ocean. It has long been extinct, +and its summit and flanks are covered with snow-fields and glaciers. +Other parts of Arizona are overspread by sheets of basaltic lava, +through which old "necks" of eruption, formed of more solid lava than +the sheets, rise occasionally above the surface, and are prominent +features in the landscape. + +Further to the eastward in New Mexico, and near the margin of the +volcanic region, is another volcanic mountain little less lofty than San +Francisco, called Mount Taylor, which, according to Dutton, rises to an +elevation of 11,390 feet above the ocean, and 8200 feet above the +general level of the surrounding plateau of lava. This mountain forms +the culminating point of a wide volcanic tract, over which are +distributed numberless vents of eruption. Scores of such +vents--generally cinder-cones--are visible in every part of the plateau, +and always in a more or less dilapidated condition.[3] Mount Taylor is a +volcano, with a central pipe terminating in a large crater, the wall of +which was broken down on the east side in the later stage of its +history. + +[Illustration: Fig. 25.--Mount Shasta (14,511 feet), a snow-clad +volcanic cone in California, with Mount Shastina, a secondary crater, on +the right; the valley between is filled with glacier-ice.--(After +Dutton).] + +(_d._) _California._--Proceeding westwards into California, we are +again confronted with volcanic phenomena on a stupendous scale. The +coast range of mountains, which branches off from the Sierra Nevada at +Mount Pinos, on the south, is terminated near the northern extremity of +the State by a very lofty mountain of volcanic origin, called Mount +Shasta, which attains an elevation of 14,511 feet (see Fig. 25). This +mountain was first ascended by Clarence King in 1870,[4] and although +forming, as it were, a portion of the Pacific Coast Range, it really +rises from the plain in solitary grandeur, its summit covered by snow, +and originating several fine glaciers. + +The summit of Mount Shasta is a nearly perfect cone, but from its +north-west side there juts out a large crater-cone just below the +snow-line, between which and the main mass of the mountain there exists +a deep depression filled with glacier ice. This secondary crater-cone +has been named Mount Shastina, and round its inner side the stream of +glacier ice winds itself, sometimes surmounting the rim of the crater, +and shooting down masses of ice into the great caldron. The length of +this glacier is about three miles, and its breadth about 4000 feet. +Another very lofty volcanic mountain is Mount Rainier, in the Washington +territory, consisting of three peaks of which the eastern possesses a +crater very perfect throughout its entire circumference. This mountain +appears to be formed mainly of trachytic matter. Proceeding further +north into British territory, several volcanic mountains near the +Pacific Coast are said to exhibit evidence of activity. Of these may be +mentioned Mount Edgecombe, in lat. 57 deg..3; Mount Fairweather, lat. 57 deg..20 +which rises to a height of 14,932 feet; and Mount St. Elias, lat. 60 deg..5, +just within the divisional line between British and Russian territory, +and reaching an altitude of 16,860 feet. This, the loftiest of all the +volcanoes of the North American continent, except those of Mexico, may +be considered as the connecting link in the volcanic chain between the +continent and the Aleutian Islands.[5] + +(_e._) _Lake Bonneville._--Returning to Utah we are brought into contact +with phenomena of special interest, owing to the inter-relations of +volcanic and lacustrine conditions which once prevailed over large +tracts of that territory. The present Great Salt Lake, and the smaller +neighbouring lakes, those called Utah and Sevier, are but remnants of an +originally far greater expanse of inland water, the boundaries of which +have been traced out by Mr. C. K. Gilbert, and described under the name +of Lake Bonneville.[6] The waters of this lake appear to have reached +their highest level at the period of maximum cold of the Post-Pliocene +period, when the glaciers descended to its margin, and large streams of +glacier water were poured into it. Eruptions of basaltic lava from +successive craters appear to have gone on before, during, and after the +lacustrine epochs; and the drying up of the waters over the greater +extent of their original area, now converted into the Sevier Desert, and +their concentration into their present comparatively narrow basins, +appears to have proceeded _pari passu_ with the gradual extinction of +the volcanic outbursts. Two successive epochs of eruption of basalt +appear to have been clearly established--an earlier one of the "Provo +Age," when the lava was extruded from the Tabernacle craters, and a +later epoch, when the eruptions took place from the Ice Spring craters. +The oldest volcanic rock appears to be rhyolite, which peers up in two +small hills almost smothered beneath the lake deposits. Its eruption was +long anterior to the lake period. On the other hand, the cessation of +the eruptions of the later basaltic sheets is evidently an event of such +recent date that Mr. Gilbert is led to look forward to their resumption +at some future, but not distant, epoch. As he truly observes, we are not +to infer that, because the outward manifestations of volcanic action +have ceased, the internal causes of those manifestations have passed +away. These are still in operation, and must make themselves felt when +the internal forces have recovered their exhausted energies; but perhaps +not to the same extent as before. + +(_f._) _Region of the Snake River._--The tract of country bordering the +Snake River in Idaho and Washington is remarkable for the vast sheets of +plateau-basalt with which it is overspread, extending sometimes in one +great flood farther than the eye can reach, and what is still more +remarkable, they are often unaccompanied by any visible craters or vents +of eruption. In Oregon the plateau-basalt is at least 2,000 feet in +thickness, and where traversed by the Columbia River it reaches a +thickness of about 3,000 feet. The Snake and Columbia rivers are lined +by walls of volcanic rock, basaltic above, trachytic below, for a +distance of, in the former, one hundred, in the latter, two hundred, +miles. Captain Dutton, in describing the High Plateau of Utah, observes +that the lavas appear to have welled up in mighty floods without any of +that explosive violence generally characteristic of volcanic action. +This extravasated matter has spread over wide fields, deluging the +surrounding country like a tide in a bay, and overflowing all +inequalities. Here also we have evidence of older volcanic cones buried +beneath seas of lava subsequently extruded. + +(_g._) _Fissures of Eruption._--The absence, or rarity, of volcanic +craters or cones of eruption in the neighbourhood of these great sheets +has led American geologists to the conclusion that the lavas were in +many cases extruded from fissures in the earth's crust rather than from +ordinary craters.[7] This view is also urged by Sir A. Geikie, who +visited the Utah region of the Snake River in 1880, and has vividly +described the impression produced by the sight of these vast fields of +basaltic lava. He says, "We found that the older trachytic lavas of the +hills had been deeply trenched by the lateral valleys, and that all +these valleys had a floor of black basalt that had been poured out as +the last of the molten materials from the now extinct volcanoes. There +were no visible cones or vents from which these floods of basalt could +have proceeded. We rode for hours by the margin of a vast plain of +basalt stretching southward and westward as far as the eye could +reach.... I realised the truth of an assertion made first by +Richthofen,[8] that our modern volcanoes, such as Vesuvius and Etna, +present us with by no means the grandest type of volcanic action, but +rather belong to a time of failing activity. There have been periods of +tremendous volcanic energy, when instead of escaping from a local vent, +like a Vesuvian cone, the lava has found its way to the surface by +innumerable fissures opened for it in the solid crust of the globe over +thousands of square miles."[9] + +(_h._) _Volcanic History of Western America._--The general succession of +volcanic events throughout the region of Western America appears to have +been somewhat as follows:--[10] + +The earliest volcanic eruptions occurred in the later Eocene epoch and +were continued into the succeeding Miocene stage. These consisted of +rocks moderately rich in silica, and are grouped under the heads of +propylite and andesite. To these succeeded during the Pliocene epoch +still more highly silicated rocks of trachytic type, consisting of +sanidine and oligoclase trachytes. Then came eruptions of rhyolite +during the later Pliocene and Pleistocene epochs; and lastly, after a +period of cessation, during which the rocks just described were greatly +eroded, came the great eruptions of basaltic lava, deluging the plains, +winding round the cones or plateaux of the older lavas, descending into +the river valleys and flooding the lake beds, issuing forth from both +vents and fissures, and continuing intermittently down almost into the +present day--certainly into the period of man's appearance on the scene. +Thus the volcanic history of Western America corresponds remarkably to +that of the European regions with which we have previously dealt, both +as regards the succession of the various lavas and the epochs of their +eruption. + +(_i._) _The Yellowstone Park._--The geysers and hot springs of the +Yellowstone Park, like those in Iceland and New Zealand, are special +manifestations of volcanic action, generally in its secondary or +moribund stage. The geysers of the Yellowstone occur on a grand scale; +the eruptions are frequent, and the water is projected into the air to a +height of over 200 feet. Most of these are intermittent, like the +remarkable one known as Old Faithful, the Castle Geyser, and the +Giantess Geyser described by Dr. Hayden, which ejects the water to a +height of 250 feet. The geyser-waters hold large quantities of silica +and sulphur in solution, owing to their high temperature under great +pressure, and these minerals are precipitated upon the cooling of the +waters in the air, and form circular basins, often gorgeously tinted +with red and yellow colours.[11] + +[1] J. W. Powell, _Exploration of the Canyons of the Colorado_, pp. 114, +196. Major Powell describes a fault or fissure through which floods of +lava have been forced up from beneath and have been poured over the +surface. Many cinder-cones are planted along the line of this fissure. + +[2] Capt. C. E. Dutton. _Sixth Ann. Rep. U.S. Geol. Survey_, 1884-85. + +[3] Dutton, _loc. cit._, chap. iv. p. 165. + +[4] _Amer. Jour. Science_, vol. 3., ser. (1871). A beautiful map of this +mountain is given in the _Fifth Annual Report, U.S. Geol. Survey_, +1883-84. Plate 44. + +[5] Daubeny, _loc. cit._, p. 474. + +[6] Gilbert, _Monograph U.S. Geol. Survey_, vol. i. (1890). + +[7] Powell, _Exploration of the Colorado River_, p. 177, etc. (1875). +Hayden, _Rep. U.S. Geol. Survey of the Colorado, etc._ (1871-80). + +[8] Richthofen, _Natural System of Volcanic Rocks_, Mem. California +Acad. Sciences, vol. i. (1868). + +[9] Geikie, _Geological Sketches at Home and Abroad_, p. 271 (1882). + +[10] Prestwich, _Geology_, vol. i. p. 370, quoting from Richthofen. + +[11] The origin of geysers is variously explained; see Prestwich, +_Geology_, vol. i. p. 170. They are probably due to heated waters +suddenly converted into steam by contact with rock at a high +temperature. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +VOLCANOES OF NEW ZEALAND. + + +One other region of volcanic action remains to be noticed before passing +on to the consideration of those of less recent age. New Zealand is an +island wherein seem to be concentrated all the phenomena of volcanic +action of past and present time. Though it is doubtful if the term +"active," in its full sense, can be applied to any of the existing +craters (with two or three exceptions, such as Tongariro and Whakari +Island), we find craters and cones in great numbers in perfectly fresh +condition, extensive sheets of trachytic and basaltic lavas, ashes, and +agglomerates; lava-floods descending from the ruptured craters of ashes +and scoriae; old crater-basins converted into lakes; geysers, hot springs +and fumaroles which may be counted by hundreds, and cataracts breaking +over barriers of siliceous sinter; and, lastly, lofty volcanic mountains +vying in magnitude with Vesuvius and Etna. All these wonderful +exhibitions of moribund volcanic action seem to be concentrated in the +northern island of Auckland. The southern island, which is the larger, +also has its natural attractions, but they are of a different kind; +chief of all is the grand range of mountains called, not +inappropriately, the "Southern Alps," vying with its European +representative in the loftiness of its peaks and the splendour of its +snowfields and glaciers, but formed of more ancient and solid rocks than +those of the northern island. + +(_a._) _Auckland District._--We are indebted to several naturalists for +our knowledge of the volcanic regions of New Zealand, but chiefly to +Ferdinand von Hochstetter, whose beautiful maps and graphic descriptions +leave nothing to be desired.[1] In this work Hochstetter was assisted by +Julius Haast and Sir J. Hector. From their account we learn that the +Isthmus of Auckland is one of the most remarkable volcanic districts in +the world. It is characterised by a large number of extinct +cinder-cones, in a greater or less perfect state of preservation, and +giving origin to lava-streams which have poured down the sides of the +hills on to the plains. Besides these are others formed of stratified +tuff, with interior craters, surrounding in mural cliffs eruptive cones +of scoriae, ashes, and lapilli; these cones are scattered over the +isthmus and shores of Waitemata and Manukau. The tuff cones and craters +rise from a floor of Tertiary sandstone and shale, the horizontal strata +of which are laid open in the precipitous bluffs of Waitemata and +Manukau harbours; they sometimes contain fossil shells of the genera +_Pecten_, _Nucula_, _Cardium_, _Turbo_, and _Neritae_. As the volcanic +tuff-beds are intermingled with the Upper Tertiary strata, it is +inferred that the first outbursts of volcanic forces occurred when the +region was still beneath the waters of the ocean. Cross-sections show +that the different layers slope both outwards (parallel to the sides) +and inwards towards the bottom of the craters. Sometimes these craters +have been converted into lakes, as in the case of those of the Eifel; +but generally they are dry or have a floor of morass. Of the +crater-lakes, those of Kohuora, five in number, are perhaps the most +remarkable; and in the case of two of these the central cones of slag +appear as islets rising from the surface of the waters. The fresh-water +lake Pupuka has a depth of twenty-eight fathoms. To the north of +Auckland Harbour rises out of the waters of the Hauraki Gulf the cone of +Rangitoto, 920 feet high, the flanks formed of rugged streams of basalt, +and the summit crowned by a circular crater of slag and ash, out of the +centre of which rises a second cone with the vent of eruption. This is +the largest and newest of the Auckland volcanoes, and appears to have +been built up by successive outpourings of basaltic lava from the +central orifice, after the general elevation of the island. + +[Illustration: Fig. 26.--Forms of volcanic tuff cones, with their +cross-sections, in the Province of Auckland.--No. 1. Simple tuff cone +with central crater; No. 2. Outer tuff cone with interior cinder cone +and crater; No. 3. The same with lava-stream issuing from the interior +cone.--(After Hochstetter.)] + +Before leaving the description of the tuff-cones, which are a peculiar +feature in the volcanic phenomena of New Zealand, and are of many forms +and varieties, we must refer to that of Mount Wellington (Maunga Rei). +This is a compound volcano, in which the oldest and smallest of the +group is a tuff-crater-cone, exhibiting very beautifully the outward +slope of its beds. Within this crater arise two cones of cinders, each +with small craters. It would appear that after a long interval the +larger of the two principal cones, formed of cinders and known as Mount +Wellington, burst forth from the southern margin of the older tuff-cone, +and, being built up to a height of 850 feet, gradually overspread the +sides of its older neighbour. Mount Wellington itself has three craters, +and from these large streams of basaltic lava have issued forth in a +westerly direction, while a branch entered and partially filled the old +tuff-crater to the northwards. + +Southwards from Manukau Harbour, and extending a short distance from +the coast-line to Taranaki Point, there occurs a plateau of +basalt-conglomerate (_Basaltkonglomerat_), with sheets of basaltic lava +overspreading the Tertiary strata. These plateau-basalts are intersected +by eruptive masses in the form of dykes, but still there are no craters +or cones of eruption to be seen; so that we may infer that the sheets, +at least, were extruded from fissures in the manner of those of the +Colorado or Idaho regions of America. Proceeding still further south +into the interior of the island, we here find a lofty plateau of an +average elevation of 2,000 feet, interposed between the Tertiary beds of +the Upper and Middle Waikato, and formed of trachytic and pitch-stone +tuff, amongst which arise old extinct volcanic cones, such as those of +Karioi, Pirongia, Kakepuku, Maunga Tautari, Aroha, and many others. +These trachytic lavas would seem to be more ancient than the basaltic, +previously described. + +(_b._) _Taupo Lake, and surrounding district._--But of all these +volcanic districts, none is more remarkable than that surrounding the +Taupo Lake, which lies amidst the Tertiary strata of the Upper Waikato +Basin. The surface of this lake is 1,250 feet above that of the ocean, +and its margin is enclosed within a border of rhyolite and +pitchstone--rising into a mass of the same material 1,800 feet high on +the eastern side. The form of the lake does not suggest that it is +itself the crater of a volcano, but rather that it was originated by +subsidence. On all sides, however, trachytic cones arise, of which the +most remarkable group lies to the south of the lake, just in front of +the two giant trachytic cones, the loftiest in New Zealand, one called +Tongariro, rising about 6,500 feet, and the other Ruapahu, which attains +an elevation of over 9,000 feet, with the summit capped by snow. These +two lofty cones, standing side by side, are supposed by the Maoris to be +the husband and wife to whom were born the group of smaller cones above +referred to as occupying the southern shore of Taupo Lake. The volcano +of Tongariro may still be considered as in a state of activity, as its +two craters (Ngauruhoe and Ketetahi) constantly emit steam, and several +solfataras break out on its flanks.[2] + +(_c._) _Roto Mahana._--In a northerly direction from Tongariro, and +distant from the coast by a few miles, lies in the Bay of Plenty the +second of the active volcanoes of New Zealand, the volcanic island of +Whakari (White Island), from the crater of which are constantly erupted +vast masses of steam clouds. The distance between these two active +craters is 120 nautical miles; and along the tract joining them +steam-jets and geysers issue forth from the deep fissures through which +the lava sheets have formerly been extruded. Numerous lakes also occupy +the larger cavities in the ground; and hot-springs, steam-fumaroles and +solfataras burst out in great numbers along the banks of the Roto Mahana +Lake and the Kaiwaka River by which it is drained. Amongst such +eruptions of hot-water and steam we might expect the formation of +siliceous sinter, and the deposition of sulphur and other minerals; nor +will our expectations be disappointed. For here we have the wonderful +terraces of siliceous sinter deposited by the waters entering Roto +Mahana as they descend from the numerous hot-springs or pools near its +margin. All travellers concur in describing these terraces as the most +wonderful of all the wonders of the Lake district of New Zealand--so +great is their extent, and so rich and varied is their colouring. + +The beautiful map of Roto Mahana on an enlarged scale by Hochstetter +shows no fewer than ten large sinter terraces descending towards the +margin of this lake, besides several mud-springs, fumaroles, and +solfataras. But the largest and most celebrated of all the sinter +terraces has within the last few years been buried from view beneath a +flood of volcanic trass, or mud, an event which was as unexpected as it +was unwelcome. In May, 1887, the mountain of Tarawera, which rises to +the north-east of Roto Mahana, and on the line of eruption above +described, suddenly burst forth into violent activity, covering the +country for miles around with clouds of ashes, and, pouring down +torrents of mud, completely enveloped the beautiful terrace of sinter +which had previously been one of the wonders of New Zealand. By the same +eruption several human beings were entombed, and their residences +destroyed. + +The waters of Roto Mahana, together with the hot-springs and fountains +are fed from rain, and from the waters of Taupo Lake, which, sinking +through fissures in the ground, come in contact with the interior heated +matter, and thus steam at high temperature and pressure is generated.[3] + +(_d._) _Moribund condition of New Zealand Volcanoes._--From what has +been said, it will be inferred that in the case of New Zealand, as in +those of Auvergne, the Eifel and Lower Rhine, Arabia, and Western +America, we have an example of a region wherein the volcanic forces are +well-nigh spent, but in which they were in a state of extraordinary +activity throughout the later Tertiary, down to the commencement of the +present epoch. In most of these cases the secondary phenomena of +vulcanicity are abundantly manifest; but the great exhibitions of +igneous action, when the plains were devastated by sheets of lava, and +cones and craters were piled up through hundreds and thousands of feet, +have for the present, at least, passed away. + +[1] _Geol.-topographischer Atlas von Neu-Seeland_, von Dr. Ferd. von +Hochstetter und Dr. A. Petermann. Gotha: Justus Perthes (1863). Also +_New Zealand_, trans. by E. Sauter, Stuttgart (1867). + +[2] Tongariro was visited in 1851 by Mr. H. Dyson, who describes the +eruption of steam. + +[3] Mr. Froude figures and describes the two terraces, the "White" and +"Pink," in _Oceana_, 2nd edition, pp. 285-291. + + + + +PART IV. + +TERTIARY VOLCANIC DISTRICTS OF THE BRITISH ISLES. + + + + +CHAPTER I. + +ANTRIM. + + +It is an easy transition to pass from the consideration of European and +other dormant, or extinct, volcanic regions to those of the British +Isles, though the volcanic forces may have become in this latter +instance quiescent for a somewhat longer period. In all the cases we +have been considering, whether those of Central Italy, of the Rhine and +Moselle, of Auvergne, or of Syria and Arabia, the cones and craters of +eruption are generally present entire, or but slightly modified in form +and size by the effects of time. But in the case of the Tertiary +volcanic districts of the British Isles this is not so. On the contrary, +these more prominent features of vulcanicity over the surface of the +ground have been removed by the agents of denudation, and our +observations are confined to the phenomena presented by extensive sheets +of lava and beds of ash, or the stumps and necks of former vents of +eruption, together with dykes of trap by which the plateau-lavas are +everywhere traversed or intersected. + +The volcanic region of the British Isles extends at intervals from the +North-east of Ireland through the Island of Mull and adjoining districts +on the mainland of Morvern and Ardnamurchan into the Isle of Skye, and +comprises several smaller islets; the whole being included in the +general name of the Inner Hebrides. It is doubtful if the volcanic lavas +of Co. Antrim were ever physically connected with those of the west of +Scotland, though they may be considered as contemporary with them; and +in all cases the existing tracts of volcanic rock are mere fragments of +those originally formed by the extrusion of lavas from vents of +eruption. In addition to these, there are large areas of volcanic rock +overspread by the waters of the ocean. + +(_a._) _Geological Age._--The British volcanic eruptions now under +consideration are all later than the Cretaceous period. Throughout +Antrim, and in parts of Mull, the lavas are found resting on highly +eroded faces either of the Upper Chalk (Fig. 27), or, where it has been +altogether denuded away, on still older Mesozoic strata. From the +relations of the basaltic sheets of Antrim to the Upper Chalk, it is +clear that the latter formation, after its deposition beneath the waters +of the Cretaceous seas, was elevated into dry land and exposed to a long +period of subaerial erosion before the first sheets of lava invaded the +surface of the ground. We are, therefore, tolerably safe in considering +the first eruptions to belong to the Tertiary period; but the evidence, +derived as it is exclusively from plant remains, is somewhat conflicting +as to the precise epoch to which the lavas and beds of tuff containing +the plant-remains are to be referred. The probabilities appear to be +that they are of Miocene age; and if so, the trachytic lavas, which in +Antrim are older than those containing plants, may be referred to a +still earlier epoch--namely, that of the Eocene.[1] As plant remains are +not very distinctive, the question regarding the exact time of the first +volcanic eruptions will probably remain for ever undecided; but we are +not likely to be much in error if we consider the entire volcanic period +to range from the close of the Eocene to that of the Miocene; by far the +greater mass of the volcanic rocks being referable to the latter epoch. + +In describing the British volcanic districts it will be most convenient +to deal with them in three divisions--viz., those of Antrim, Mull, and +Skye, commencing with Antrim.[2] + +(_b._) _Volcanic Area._--The great sheets of basalt and other volcanic +products of the North-east of Ireland overspread almost the whole of the +County Antrim, and adjoining districts of Londonderry and Tyrone, +breaking off in a fine mural escarpment along the northern shore of +Belfast Lough and the sea coast throughout the whole of its range from +Larne Harbour to Lough Foyle; the only direction in which these features +subside into the general level of the country being around the shores of +Lough Neagh. Several outliers of the volcanic sheets are to be found at +intervals around the great central plateau; such as those of Rathlin +Island, Island Magee, and Scrabo Hill in Co. Down. The area of the +basaltic plateau may be roughly estimated at 2,000 square miles. + +[Illustration: Fig. 27.--"The White Rocks," Portrush, Co. Antrim, +showing the plateau-basalt resting on an eroded surface of the Upper +Chalk, with bands of flint.--(From a photograph.)] + +The truncated edges of this marginal escarpment rising to levels of +1,000 to 1,260 feet, as in the case of Benevenagh in Co. Derry, and +1,825 feet at Mullaghmore, attest an originally greatly more extended +range of the basaltic sheets; and it is not improbable that at the close +of the Miocene epoch they extended right across the present estuary of +Lough Foyle to the flanks of the mountains of Inishowen in Donegal in +one direction, and to those of Slieve Croob in the other. In the +direction of Scotland the promontories of Kintyre and Islay doubtless +formed a part of the original margin. Throughout this vast area the +volcanic lavas rest on an exceedingly varied rocky floor, both as +regards composition and geological age. (See Fig. 28.) Throughout the +central, southern, eastern, and northern parts of their extent, the +Chalk formation may be considered to form this floor; but in the +direction of Armagh and Tyrone, towards the southwestern margin, the +basaltic sheets are found resting indiscriminately on Silurian, +Carboniferous, and Triassic strata. The general relations of the +plateau-basalts to the underlying formations show, that at the close of +the Cretaceous period there had been considerable terrestrial +disturbances and great subaerial denudation, resulting in some cases in +the complete destruction of the whole of the Cretaceous strata, before +the lava floods were poured out; owing to which, these latter are found +resting on formations of older date than the Cretaceous.[3] + +[Illustration: Fig. 28.--Section across the volcanic plateau of Antrim, +from the Highlands of Inishowen, Co. Donegal, on the N.W., to Belfast +Lough on the S.E., to show the relations of the volcanic rocks to the +older formations.--B. Basaltic sheets breaking off in high escarpments; +T. Trachyte porphyry of Tardree mountain rising from below the newer +plateau-basalts; C. Upper Chalk with flints; N.R. New Red marl and +sandstone (Trias); M. Metamorphic beds of quartzite, various schists and +crystalline limestone; F. Large fault.] + +[1] Mr. J. Starkie Gardner, from a recent comparison of the +plant-remains of Antrim and Mull, concludes that "that they might belong +to any age between the beginning and the end of the warmer Eocene +period; and that they cannot be of earlier, and are unlikely to be of +later, date."--_Trans. Palaeont. Soc._, vol. xxxvii. (1883). + +[2] Having dealt with this district rather fully in _The Physical +Geology and Geography of Ireland_ (Edit. 1891, p. 81), and also in my +Presidential Address (Section C.) at the meeting of the British +Association, 1874, a brief review of the subject will be sufficient +here, the reader being referred to the former treatises for fuller +details. The following should also be consulted: Gen. Portlock, _Geology +of Londonderry and Tyrone_ (1843); Sir A. Geikie, "History of Volcanic +Action during the Tertiary Period in the British Isles," _Trans. Roy. +Soc. Edinburgh_, 1888; and the _Descriptive Memoirs_ of the Geological +Survey relating to this tract of country. + +[3] Owing to the superposition of the basaltic masses on beds of chalk +throughout a long line of coast, we are presented with the curious +spectacle of the whitest rocks in nature overlain by the blackest, as +may be seen in the cliffs at Larne, Glenarm, Kinbane and Portrush. (See +Fig. 27.) + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +SUCCESSION OF VOLCANIC ERUPTIONS. + + +(_c._) _First Stage._--The earliest eruptions of lava in the North-east +of Ireland belonged to the highly acid varieties, consisting of +quartz-trachyte with tridymite.[1] This rock rises to the surface at +Tardree and Brown Dod hills and Templepatrick. It consists of a +light-greyish felsitic paste enclosing grains of smoke-quartz, crystals +of sanidine, plagioclase and biotite, with a little magnetite and +apatite. It is a rock of peculiar interest from the fact that it is +almost unique in the British Islands, and has its petrological +counterpart rather amongst the volcanic hills of the Siebengebirge than +elsewhere. It is generally consolidated with the columnar structure. + +[Illustration: Fig. 29.--Part of the section shown in the quarry at +Templepatrick, showing the superposition of the basalt (_d_) to the +trachyte (_b_), with the intervening bed of flint gravel (_c_). All +these rocks are seen to rest upon an eroded surface of the Chalk +formation (_a_).] + +The trachyte appears to have been extruded from one or more vents in a +viscous condition, the principal vent being probably situated under +Tardree mountain, where the rock occurs in greatest mass, and it +probably arose as a dome-shaped mass, with a somewhat extended margin, +above the floor of Chalk which formed the surface of the ground.[2] +(Fig. 27.) At Templepatrick the columnar trachyte may be observed +resting on the Chalk, or upon a layer of flint gravel interposed between +the two rocks, and which has been thrust out of position by a later +intrusion of basalt coming in from the side.[3] It is to be observed, +however, that the trachytic lavas nowhere appear cropping out along with +the sheets of basalt around the escarpments overlooking the sea, or +inland; showing that they did not spread very far from their vents of +eruption; a fact illustrating the lower viscosity, or fluidity, of the +acid lavas as compared with those of the basic type. + +(_d._) _Second Stage._--After an interval, probably of long duration, a +second eruption of volcanic matter took place over the entire area; but +now the acid lavas of the first stage are replaced by basic lavas. Now, +for the first time, vast masses of basalt and dolerite are extruded both +from vents of eruption and fissures; and, owing to their extreme +viscosity, spread themselves far and wide until they reach the margin of +some uprising ground of old Palaeozoic or Metamorphic rocks by which the +volcanic plain is almost surrounded. The great lava sheets thus produced +are generally more or less amorphous, vesicular and amygdaloidal, often +exhibiting the globular concentric structure, and weathering rapidly to +a kind of ferruginous sand or clay under the influence of the +atmosphere. Successive extrusions of these lavas produce successive +beds, which are piled one over the other in some places to a depth of +600 feet; and at the close of the stage, when the volcanic forces had +for the time exhausted themselves, the whole of the North-east of +Ireland must have presented an aspect not unlike that of one of those +great tracts of similar lava in the region of Idaho and the Snake River +in Western America, described in a previous chapter. + +(_e._) _Third Stage (Inter-volcanic)._--The third stage may be described +as inter-volcanic. Owing to the formation of a basin, probably not deep, +and with gently sloping sides, a large lake was formed over the centre +of the area above described. Its floor was basalt, and the streams from +the surrounding uplands carried down leaves and stems of trees, strewing +them over its bed. Occasionally eruptions of ash took place from small +vents, forming the ash-beds with plants found at Ballypallidy, Glenarm, +and along the coast as at Carrick-a-raide. The streams also brought down +sand and gravel from the uprising domes of trachyte, and deposited them +over the lake-bed along with the erupted ashes.[4] The epoch we are now +referring to was one of economic importance; as, towards its close, +there was an extensive deposition of pisolitic iron-ore over the floor +of the lake, sometimes to the depth of two or three feet. This ore has +been extensively worked in recent years. + +[Illustration: Fig. 30.--Cliff section above the Giant's Causeway, coast +of Co. Antrim, showing successive tiers of basaltic lava, with +intervening bands of bole.] + +(_f._) _Fourth Stage (Volcanic)._--The last stage described was brought +to a termination by a second outburst of basic lavas on a scale probably +even grander than the preceding. These lavas consisting of basalt and +dolerite, with their varieties, and extruded from vents and fissures, +spread themselves in all directions over the pre-existing lake deposits +or the older sheets of augitic lava, and probably entirely buried the +trachytic hills. These later sheets solidified into more solid masses +than those of the second stage. They form successive terraces with +columnar structure, each terrace differing from that above and below it +in the size and length of the columns, and separated by thin bands of +"bole" (decomposed lava), often reddish in colour, clearly defining the +limits of the successive lava-flows. Nowhere throughout the entire +volcanic area are these successive terraces so finely laid open to view +as along the north coast of Antrim, where the lofty mural cliffs, worn +back into successive bays with intervening headlands by the +irresistible force of the Atlantic waves, present to the spectator a +vertical section from 300 to 400 feet in height, in which the successive +tiers of columnar basalt, separated by thin bands of bole, are seen to +rise one above the other from the water's edge to the summit of the +cliff, as shown in Fig. 30. Here, also, at the western extremity of the +line of cliffs we find that remarkable group of vertical basaltic +columns, stretching from the base of the cliff into the Atlantic, and +known far and wide by the name of "The Giant's Causeway," the upper ends +of the columns forming a tolerably level surface, gently sloping +seawards, and having very much the aspect of an artificial tesselated +pavement on a huge scale. A portion of the Causeway, with the cliff in +the background, is shown in the figure (Fig. 31). The columns are +remarkable for their symmetry, being generally hexagonal, though +occasionally they are pentagons, and each column is horizontally +traversed by joints of the ball-and-socket form, thus dividing them into +distinct courses of natural masonry. These are very well shown in the +accompanying view of the remarkable basaltic pillars known as "The +Chimneys," which stand up from the margin of the headland adjoining the +Causeway, monuments of past denudation, as they originally formed +individuals amongst the group belonging to one of the terraces in the +adjoining coast.[5] (Fig. 32). + +[Illustration: Fig. 31.--The Giant's Causeway, formed of basaltic +columns in a vertical position, and of pentagonal or hexagonal section; +above the Causeway is seen a portion of the cliff composed of tiers of +lava with intervening bands of bole, etc.--(From a photograph.)] + +[Illustration: Fig. 32.--"The Chimneys," columns of basalt on slope of +cliff overlooking the Atlantic, north coast of Co. Antrim. The +horizontal segments, or cup-and-ball joints, of the columns are well +shown in this figure. (From a photograph.)] + +(_g._) _Original Thickness of the Antrim Lavas._--It is impossible to +determine with certainty what may have been the original thickness of +the accumulated sheets of basic lavas with their associated beds of ash +and bole. The greatest known thickness of the lower zone of lavas is, as +I have already stated, about 600 feet. The intermediate beds of ash and +bole sometimes attain a thickness of 40 feet, and the upper group of +basalt about 400 feet; these together would constitute a series of over +1,000 feet in thickness. But this amount, great as it is, is undoubtedly +below the original maximum, as the uppermost sheets have been removed by +denuding agencies, we know not to what extent. Nor is it of any great +importance. Sufficient remains to enable us to form a just conception of +the magnitude both as regards thickness and extent of the erupted matter +of the Miocene period over the North-east of Ireland and adjoining +submerged tracts, and of the magnitude of the volcanic operations +necessary for the production of such masses. + +(_h._) _Volcanic Necks._--As already remarked, no craters of eruption +survive throughout the volcanic region of the North-east of Ireland, +owing to the enormous extent of the denudation which this region has +undergone since the Miocene Epoch; but the old "necks" of such +craters--in other words, the pipes filled with either solid basalt, or +basalt and ashes--are still to be found at intervals over the whole +area. Owing to the greater solidity of the lava which filled up these +"necks" over the plateau-basaltic sheets which surround them, they +appear as bosses or hills rising above the general level of the ground. +One of these bosses of highly columnar basalt occurs between Portrush +and Bushmills, not far from Dunluce Castle, another at Scawt Hill, near +Glenarm, and a third at Carmoney Hill above Belfast Lough. But by far +the most prominent of these old solidified vents of eruption is that of +Sleamish, a conspicuous mountain which rises above the general level of +the plateau near Ballymena, and attains an elevation of 1,437 feet above +the sea. Seen from the west, the mountain has the appearance of a +round-topped cone; but on examination it is found to be in reality a +huge dyke, breaking off abruptly towards the north-west, in which +direction it reaches its greatest height, then sloping downwards towards +the east. This form suggests that Sleamish is in reality one of the +fissure-vents of eruption rather than the neck of an old volcano. The +rock of which it is formed consists of exceedingly massive, +coarsely-crystalline dolerite, rich in olivine, and divided into large +quadrangular blocks by parallel joint planes. Its junction with the +plateau-basalt from which it rises can nowhere be seen; but at the +nearest point where the two rocks are traceable the plateau-basalt +appears to be somewhat indurated; breaking with a splintery fracture and +a sharp ring under the hammer, suggesting that the lava of Sleamish had +been extruded through the horizontal sheets, and had considerably +indurated the portions in contact with, or in proximity to, it.[6] +Amongst the vents filled with ash and agglomerate, the most remarkable +is that of Carrick-a-raide, near Ballycastle. It forms this rocky island +and a portion of the adjoining coast, where the beds of ash are finely +displayed; consisting of fragments and bombs of basalt, with pieces of +chalk, flint, and peperino, which is irregularly bedded. These ash-beds +attain a thickness of about 120 feet just below the road to Ballycastle, +but rapidly tail out in both directions from the locality of the vent. +Just below the ash-beds, the white chalk with flints may be seen +extending down into the sea-bed. Nowhere in Antrim is there such a +display of volcanic ash and agglomerate as at this spot.[7] + +(_i._) _Dykes: Conditions under which they were Erupted._--No one can +visit the geological sections in Co. Antrim and the adjoining districts +of Down, Armagh, Derry, and Tyrone, without being struck by the great +number and variety of the igneous dykes by which the rocks are +traversed. The great majority of these dykes are basaltic, and they are +found traversing all the formations, including the Cretaceous and +Tertiary basaltic sheets. The Carlingford and Mourne Mountains are +seamed with such dykes, and they are splendidly laid open to view along +the coast south of Newcastle in Co. Down, as also along the Antrim coast +from Belfast to Larne. The fine old castle of Carrickfergus has its +foundations on one of those dyke-like intrusions, but one of greater +size than ordinary. All the dykes here referred to are not, however, of +the same age, as is conclusively proved by sections amongst the Mourne +Mountains where cliffs of Lower Silurian strata, superimposed on the +intrusive granite of the district, exhibit two sets of basaltic +dykes--one (the older) abruptly terminated at the granite margin, the +other and newer penetrating the granite and Silurian rocks alike. It is +not improbable that the older dykes belong to the Carboniferous or +Permian age, while the newer are with equal probability of Tertiary age. +Sir A. Geikie has shown that the Tertiary dykes of the North of Ireland +are representatives of others occurring at intervals over the North of +England, and Central and Western Scotland, all pointing towards the +central region of volcanic activity; or in a parallel direction thereto, +approximating to the N.W. in Ireland, the Island of Islay, and East +Argyleshire, but in the centre of Scotland generally ranging from east +to west.[8] The area affected by the dykes of undoubted Tertiary age +Geikie estimates at no less than 40,000 square miles--a territory +greater than either Scotland or Ireland, and equal to more than a third +of the total land-surface of the British Isles;[9] and he regards them +as posterior "to the rest of the geological structures of the regions +which they traverse." It is clear that the dykes referred to belong to +one great system of eruption or intrusion; and they may be regarded as +the manifestation of the final effort of internal forces over this +region of the British Isles. They testify to the existence of a +continuous _magma_ (or shell) of augitic lava beneath the crust; and as +the aggregate horizontal extent of all these dykes, or of the fissures +which they fill, must be very considerable, it is clear that the crust +through which they have been extruded has received an accession of +horizontal space, and has been fissured by forces acting from beneath, +as the late Mr. Hopkins, of Cambridge, had explained on mechanical +grounds in his elaborate essay many years ago.[10] This view occurred to +myself when examining the region of the North-east of Ireland, but I was +not then aware that it had been dealt with on mathematical principles by +so eminent a mathematician. The bulging of the crust is a necessary +consequence of the absence of plication of the strata due to the +extrusion of this enormous quantity of molten lava; and the intrusion of +thousands of dykes over the North-east of Ireland, unaccompanied by +foldings of the strata, must have added a horizontal space of several +thousand feet to that region.[11] + +[1] A peculiar form of crystalline quartz first recognized in this rock +by a distinguished German petrologist, the late Prof. A. von Lasaulx, +who visited the district in 1876. + +[2] Sir A. Geikie has disputed the correctness of the view, which I +advocated as far back as 1874, that the trachytic lavas of Antrim are +the earliest products of volcanic action; but at the time he wrote his +paper on the volcanic history of these islands, it was not known that +pebbles of this trachyte are largely distributed amongst the ash-beds +which occur in the very midst of the overlying basaltic sheets, as I +shall have to explain later on. This discovery puts the question at rest +as regards the relations of the two sets of rocks. + +[3] This remarkable section at the chalk quarries of Templepatrick the +author has figured and described in the _Physical Geology and Geography +of Ireland_, p. 99, 2nd edit. (1891), where the reader will find the +subject discussed more fully than can be done here. + +[4] These pebbles were first noticed by Mr. McHenry, of the Irish +Geological Survey, in 1890. + +[5] The vertical position of the columns of the Giant's Causeway is +rather enigmatical. The Causeway cannot be a dyke, as has often been +supposed, otherwise the columns would have been horizontal, _i.e._, at +right angles to the sides of the dyke. Mr. R. G. Symes, of the +Geological Survey, has suggested that the Causeway columns have been +vertically lowered between two lines of fault, and that originally they +formed a portion of the tier of beautiful columns seen in the cliff +above, and known as "The Organ." + +[6] Sleamish and several other of the Antrim vents are described by Sir +A. Geikie in the monograph already referred to, _loc. cit._, p. 101, _et +seq._ Also in the _Expl. Memoirs of the Geological Survey of Ireland_. + +[7] A diagrammatised section of the Carrick-a-raide volcanic neck is +given by Sir A. Geikie, _loc. cit._, p. 105. + +[8] Geikie, _loc. cit._, p. 29, _et seq._ + +[9] P. 32. The view that the crust of the earth has been horizontally +extended by the intrusion of dykes is noticed by McCulloch in reference +to the dykes of Skye. + +[10] Hopkins, _Cambridge Phil. Trans._, vol. vi. p. 1 (1836). + +[11] As suggested in my Presidential Address to Section C. of the +British Association at Belfast, 1874. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +ISLAND OF MULL AND ADJOINING COAST. + + +The Island of Mull, with the adjoining districts of Morvern and +Ardnamurchan, forms the more southern of the two chief centres of +Tertiary volcanic eruptions in the West of Scotland, that of Skye being +the more northern. These districts have been the subject of critical and +detailed study by several geologists, from McCulloch down to the present +day; and amongst the more recent, Sir Archibald Geikie and Professor +Judd hold the chief place. Unfortunately, the interpretation of the +volcanic phenomena by these two accomplished observers has led them to +very different conclusions as regards several important points in the +volcanic history of these groups of islands; as, for example, regarding +the relative ages of the plateau-basalts and the acid rocks, such as the +trachytes and granophyres; again as regards the presence of distinct +centres of eruption; and also as regards the relations of the gabbros of +Skye to the basaltic sheets. Such being the case, it would appear the +height of rashness on the part of the writer, especially in the absence +of a detailed examination of the sections over the whole region, to +venture on a statement of opinion regarding the points at issue; and he +must, therefore, content himself with a brief account of the phenomena +as gathered from a perusal of the writings of these and other +observers,[1] guided also to some extent by the analogous phenomena +presented by the volcanic region of the North-east of Ireland. + +(_a._) _General Features._--As in the case of the Antrim district, the +Island of Mull and adjoining tracts present us with the spectacle of a +vast accumulation of basaltic lava-flows, piled layer upon layer, with +intervening beds of bole and tuff, up to a thickness, according to +Geikie, of about 3,500 feet. At the grand headland of Gribon, on the +west coast, the basaltic sheets are seen to rise in one sheer sweep to a +height of 1,600 feet, and then to stretch away with a slight easterly +dip under Ben More at a distance of some eight miles. This mountain, the +upper part of which is formed of beds of ashes, reaches an elevation of +3,169 feet, so that the accumulated thickness of the beds of basalt +under the higher part of the mountain must be at least equal to the +amount stated above--that is, twice as great as the representative +masses of Antrim. The base of the volcanic series is seen at Carsaig and +Gribon to rest on Cretaceous and Jurassic rocks, like those of Antrim; +hence the Tertiary age is fully established by the evidence of +superposition. This was further confirmed by the discovery by the Duke +of Argyll,[2] some years ago (1850), of bands of flint-gravel and tuff, +with dicotyledonous leaves amongst the basalts of Ardtun Head. The +basement beds of tuff and gravel contain, besides pebbles of flint and +chalk, others of sanidine trachyte, showing that highly acid lavas had +been extruded and consolidated before the first eruption of the +plateau-basalts; another point of analogy between the volcanic +phenomenon of Antrim and the Inner Hebrides. These great sheets of +augitic lava extend over the whole of the northern tract of Mull, the +Isles of Ulva and Staffa, and for a distance of several miles inwards +from the northern shore of the Sound of Mull, covering the wild +moorlands of Morvern and Ardnamurchan, where they terminate in +escarpments and outlying masses, indicating an originally much more +extended range than at the present day. The summits of Ben More and its +neighbouring height, Ben Buy, are formed of beds of ash and tuff. The +volcanic plateau is, according to Judd, abruptly terminated along the +southern side by a large vault, bringing the basalt in contact with +Palaeozoic rocks.[3] + +(_b._) _Granophyres._--The greater part of the tract lying to the south +of Loch na Keal, which almost divides Mull into two islands, and +extending southwards and eastwards to the shores of the Firth of Lorn +and the Sound of Mull, is formed of a peculiar group of acid (or highly +silicated) rocks, classed under the general term of "Granophyres." These +rocks approach towards true granites in one direction, and through +quartz-porphyry and felsite to rhyolite in another--probably depending +upon the conditions of cooling and consolidation. In their mode of +weathering and general appearance on a large scale, they present a +marked contrast to the basic lavas with which they are in contact from +the coast of L. na Keal to that of L. Buy. The nature of this contact, +whether indicating the priority of the granophyres to the +plateau-basalts or otherwise, is a matter of dispute between the two +observers above named; but the circumstantial account given by Sir A. +Geikie,[4] accompanied by drawings of special sections showing this +contact, appears to prove that the granophyre is the newer of the two +masses of volcanic rock, and that it has been intruded amongst the +basaltic-lavas at a late period in the volcanic history of these +islands. A copy of one of these sketches is here given (Fig. 33), +according to which the felsite is shown to penetrate the basaltic sheets +at Alt na Searmoin in Mull; other sections seen at Cruach Torr an +Lochain, and on the south side of Beinn Fada, appear to lead to similar +conclusions. These rocks are penetrated by numerous basaltic dykes. + +[Illustration: Fig. 33.--Section at Alt na Searmoin, Mull, to show the +intrusion of felsite (or granophyre) (_b_) into basalt and dolerite +(_a_) of the plateau-basalt series.--(Geikie.)] + +(_c._) _Representative Rocks of Mourne and Carlingford, +Ireland._--Assuming Sir A. Geikie's view to be correct, it is possible +that we may have in the granite and quartz-porphyries of Mourne and +Carlingford representatives of the granites, granophyres, and other acid +rocks of the later period of Mull. The granite of Mourne is peculiar in +structure, and differs from the ordinary type of that rock in which the +silica forms the ground mass. In the case of the granite of the Mourne +Mountains, the rock consists of a crystalline granular aggregate of +orthoclase, albite, smoke-quartz, and mica; it is also full of drusy +cavities, in which the various minerals crystallise out in very perfect +form. As far as regards direct evidence, the age of this rock can only +be stated to be post-Carboniferous, and earlier than certain Tertiary +basaltic dykes by which it is traversed. The granophyres of Mull are +traversed by similar dykes, which are representatives of the very latest +stage of volcanic action in the British Islands. The author is therefore +inclined to concur with Sir A. Geikie in assigning to the granite of the +Mourne Mountains, and the representative felsitic rocks of the +Carlingford Mountains, a Tertiary age--in which case the analogy between +the volcanic phenomena of the Inner Hebrides and of the North-east of +Ireland would seem to be complete.[5] + +[1] Geikie, _Proc. Roy. Soc. Edinburgh_ (1867); _Brit. Assoc. Rep._ +(Dundee, 1867); "Tertiary Volcanic Rocks of the British Isles," _Quart. +Journ. Geol. Soc._, vol. xxvii. p. 279; also, "History of Volcanic +Action in British Isles," _Trans. Roy. Soc. Edin._ (1888); Judd, "On the +Ancient Volcanoes of the Highlands," etc., _Quart. Journ. Geol. Soc._, +vol. xxx. p. 233; and _Volcanoes_, p. 139. + +[2] _Brit. Assoc. Rep._ for 1850, p. 70. + +[3] Judd, _Quart. Jour. Geol. Soc._, vol. xxx. p. 242. + +[4] _History of Volcanic Action, etc._, _loc. cit._ p. 153, _et seq._ +The "Granophyres" of Geikie come under the head of "Felsites," passing +into "granite" in one direction and quartz-trachyte in another, +according to Judd; the proportion of silica from 69 to 75 per +cent.--_Quart. Jour. Geol. Soc._, vol. xxx. p. 235. + +[5] This view the author has expressed in a recent edition of _The +Physical Geology of Ireland_, p. 177 (1891). + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +ISLE OF SKYE. + + +This is the largest and most important of all the Tertiary volcanic +districts, but owing to the extensive denudation to which, in common +with other Tertiary volcanic regions of the British Isles, it has been +subjected, its present limits are very restricted comparatively to its +original extent. Not only is this evident from the manner in which the +basaltic sheets terminate along the sea-coast in grand mural cliffs, as +opposite "Macleod's Maidens," and at the entrance to Lough Bracadale on +the western coast, but the evidence is, according to Sir A. Geikie, +still more striking along the eastern coast; showing that the Jurassic, +and other older rocks there visible, were originally buried deep under +the basaltic sheets which have been stripped from off that part of the +country. These great plateau-basalts occupy about three-fourths of the +entire island along the western and northern areas, rising into terraced +mountains over 2,000 feet in height, and are deeply furrowed by glens +and arms of the sea, along which the general structure of the tableland +is laid open, sometimes for leagues at a time. + +It is towards the south-eastern part of the island that the most +interesting and important phenomena are centred; for here we meet with +representatives of the acid (or highly silicated) group of rocks, and +of remarkable beds of gabbro, which have long attracted the attention of +petrologists. These latter beds, throughout a considerable distance +round the flanks of the Cuillin Hills, are interposed between the acid +rocks and the plateau-basalts; but towards the north, on approaching +Lough Sligahan, the acid rocks, consisting of granophyres, +quartz-porphyries, and hornblendic-granitites, are in direct contact +with the plateau-basalts; and, according to the very circumstantial +account of Sir A. Geikie, are intrusive into them; not only sending +veins into the basaltic sheets, but also producing a marked alteration +in their structure where they approach the newer intrusive mass. Equally +circumstantial is the same author's account of the relations of the +granophyres to the gabbros,[1] as seen at Meall Dearg and the western +border of the Cuillin Hills--where the former rock may be seen to send +numerous veins into the latter. Not only is this so, but the granophyre +is frequently seen to truncate, and abruptly terminate some of the +basaltic dykes by which the basic sheets are traversed--as in the +neighbourhood of Beinn na Dubhaic. All these phenomena strongly remind +us of the conditions of similar rocks amongst the mountains of Mourne +and Carlingford in Ireland; where, at Barnaveve, the syenite (or +hornblendic quartz-felsite) is seen to break through the masses of +olivine gabbro, and send numerous veins into this latter rock.[2] + +The interpretation here briefly sketched differs widely from that +arrived at by Professor Judd. The granitoid masses of the Red Mountains +(Beinn Dearg) and the neighbouring heights are, in his view, the roots +of the great volcano from which were erupted the various lavas; the +earlier eruptions producing the acid lavas, to be followed by the +gabbros, and these by the plateau-basaltic sheets, which stretch away +towards the north and west into several peninsulas. Thus he holds that +"the rocks of basic composition were ejected subsequently to those of +the acid variety," and appeals to various sections in confirmation of +this view.[3] To reconcile these views is at present impossible; but as +the controversy between these two observers is probably not yet closed, +there is room for hope that the true interpretation of the relations of +these rocks to each other will ere long be fully established. + +[1] Geikie, _loc. cit._, p. 161, etc. + +[2] _Physical Geology of Ireland_, 2nd edition, p. 174 (Fig. 21). +Professor Judd has also come to the conclusion that the granite of +Mourne is of Tertiary age, _Quart. Jour. Geol. Soc._, vol. xxx. p. 275. + +[3] Judd, _loc. cit._, p. 254. + + + + +CHAPTER V. + +THE SCUIR OF EIGG. + + +Amongst the more remarkable of the smaller islets are those of Eigg, +Rum, Canna, and Muck, lying between Mull on the south and Skye on the +north, and undoubtedly at one time physically connected together. The +Island of Eigg is especially remarkable for the fact, as stated by +Geikie, that here we have the one solitary case of "a true superficial +stream of acid lava--that of the Scuir of Eigg."[1] (Fig. 34.) This +forms a sinuous ridge, composed of pitchstone of several kinds, of over +two miles in length, rising from the midst of a tableland of bedded +basalt and tuff to a height of 1,289 feet above the ocean; the +plateau-basalt is traversed by basaltic dykes, ranging in a N.W.-S.E. +direction. But what is specially remarkable is the evidence afforded by +an examination of the course of the Scuir, that it follows the channel +of an ancient river-valley, which has been hollowed out in the surface +of the plateau. The course of this channel is indicated by the presence +of a deposit of river-gravel, which in some places forms a sort of +cushion between the base of the Scuir and the side of the channel. Over +this gravel-bed the viscous pitchstone-lava appears to have flowed, +taking possession of the river-channel, and also of the beds of several +small tributary streams which flowed into the channel of the Scuir. The +recent date of the pitchstone forming this remarkable mural ridge, once +occupying the bed of a river-channel, is shown by the fact that the +basaltic dykes which traverse the plateau-basalts are truncated by the +river-gravel, which is, therefore, more recent; and, as we have seen, +the pitchstone stream is more recent than the river-gravel. But at the +time when this last volcanic eruption took place, the physical geography +of the whole region must have been very different from that of the +present time. From the character and composition of the pebbles in the +old river-bed, amongst which are Cambrian sandstone, quartzite, +clay-slate, and white Jurassic limestone, Sir A. Geikie concludes that +when the river was flowing, the island must have been connected with the +mainland to the east where the parent masses of these pebbles are found. + +[Illustration: Fig. 34.--View of the Scuir of Eigg from the east. The +lower portion of the mountain is formed of bedded basalt, or dolerite +with numerous dykes and veins of basalt, felstone, and pitchstone; the +upper cliff, or Scuir, is composed of pitchstone of newer age, the +remnant of a lava flow which once filled a river channel in the basaltic +sheets. A dyke, or sheet, of porphyry is seen to be interposed between +the Scuir and the basaltic sheets.--(After Geikie.)] + +_Effects of Denudation._--The position of the Scuir of Eigg and its +relations to the basaltic sheets show the enormous amount of denudation +which these latter have undergone since the stream of pitchstone-lava +filled the old river channel. The walls, or banks, of the channel have +been denuded away, thus converting the pitchstone casting into a +projecting wall of rock. That it originally extended outwards into the +ocean to a far greater distance than at present is evident from the +abruptly truncated face of the cliff; and yet this remarkable volcanic +mass seems to have been, perhaps, the most recent exhibition of volcanic +action to be found in the British Isles. It is perhaps, on this account, +the most striking of the numerous examples exhibited throughout the West +of Scotland and the North-east of Ireland of the enormous amount of +denudation to which these districts have been subjected since the +extinction of the volcanic fires; and this at a period to which we +cannot assign a date more ancient than that of the Pliocene. Yet, let us +consider for a moment to what physical vicissitudes these districts have +been subjected since that epoch. Assuming, as we may with confidence, +that the volcanic eruptions were subaerial, and that the tracts covered +by the plateau-basalts were in the condition of dry land when the +eruptions commenced, in this condition they continued in the main +throughout the period of volcanic activity. But the eruptions had +scarcely ceased, and the lava floods and dykes become consolidated, +before the succeeding glacial epoch set in; when the snows and glaciers +of the Scottish Highlands gradually descending from their original +mountain heights, and spreading outwards in all directions, ultimately +enveloped the whole of the region we are now considering until it was +entirely concealed beneath a mantle of ice moving slowly, but +irresistibly, outwards towards the Atlantic, crossing the deep channels, +such as the Sound of Mull and the Minch, climbing up the sides of +opposing rocks and islands until even the Outer Hebrides and the +North-east of Ireland were covered by one vast mantle of ice and snow. +The movement of such a body of ice over the land must have been attended +with a large amount of abrasion of the rocky floor; nor have the +evidences of that abrasion entirely disappeared even at the present day. +We still detect the grooves and scorings on the rock-surfaces where they +have been protected by a coating of boulder clay; and we still find the +surface strewn with the blocks and _debris_ of that mighty ice-flood. + +But whatever may have been the amount of erosion caused by the great +ice-sheet, it was chiefly confined to the more or less horizontal +surface-planes. Erosion of another kind was to succeed, and to produce +more lasting effects on the configuration of the surface. On the +disappearance of the ice-sheet, an epoch characterised by milder +conditions of climate set in. This was accompanied by subsidence and +submersion of large tracts of the land during the Interglacial stage; so +that the sea rose to heights of several hundred feet above the present +level, and has left behind stratified gravels with shells at these +elevations in protected places. During this period of depression and of +subsequent re-emergence the wave-action of the Atlantic waters must have +told severely on the coast and islands, wearing them into cliffs and +escarpments, furrowing out channels and levelling obstructions. Such +action has gone on down to the present day. The North-west of Scotland +and of Ireland has been subjected throughout a very lengthened period to +the wear and tear of the Atlantic billows. In the case of the former, +the remarkable breakwater which nature has thrown athwart the North-west +Highlands in the direction of the waves, forming the chain of islands +constituting the Outer Hebrides, and composed of very tough Archaean +gneiss and schist, has done much to retard the inroads which the waves +might otherwise have made on the Isle of Skye; while Coll and Tiree, +composed of similar materials, have acted with similar beneficent effect +for Mull and the adjoining coasts. But such is the tremendous power of +the Atlantic billows when impelled by westerly winds, that to their +agency must be mainly attributed the small size of the volcanic +land-surfaces as compared with their original extent, and the formation +of those grand headlands which are presented by the igneous masses of +Skye, Ardnamurchan, and Mull towards the west. Rain and river action, +supplemented by that of glaciers, have also had a share in eroding +channels and wearing down the upper surface of the ground, with the +result we at present behold in the wild and broken scenery of the Inner +Hebrides and adjoining coast. + +[1] Geikie, _loc. cit._, p. 178; also _Quart. Jour. Geol. Soc._, vol. +xxvii. p. 303. + + + + +CHAPTER VI. + +ISLE OF STAFFA. + + +Reference has been made to this remarkable island in a former page, but +some more extended notice is desirable before leaving the region of the +Inner Hebrides. Along with the islands of Pladda, Treshnish, and +Blackmore, Staffa is one of the outlying volcanic islands of the group, +being distant about six miles from the coast of Mull, and indicates the +minimum distance to which the plateau-basaltic sheets originally +extended in the direction of the old marginal lands of Tiree and Coll. +The island consists of successive sheets of bedded basaltic lava, with +partings of tuff, one of which of considerable thickness is shown to lie +at the base of the cliff on the south-west side of the island.[1] The +successive lava-sheets present great varieties of structure, like those +on the north coast of Antrim; some being amorphous, others columnar, +with either straight or bent columns. The lava-sheet out of which +Fingal's Cave is excavated consists of vertical prisms, beautifully +formed, and surmounted by an amorphous mass of the same material. At the +entrance of the Boat Cave we have a somewhat similar arrangement of the +columns;[2] but at the Clam-shell Cave the prisms are curved, indicating +some movement in the viscous mass before they had been fully +consolidated. + +Fingal's Cave is called after the celebrated prince of Morvern (or +Morven), a province of ancient Caledonia. He is supposed to have been +the father of Ossian, the Celtic bard rendered famous by Macpherson. The +cave, one of many which pierce the coast-cliffs of Western Scotland, is +227 feet in length, 166 feet in height, and 40 feet in width. On all +sides regular columns of basalt, some entire, others broken, rise out of +the water and support the roof. The cave is only accessible in calm +weather. + +[1] A drawing of this cliff is given by Geikie in the _Manual of +Geology_ (Jukes and Geikie), 3rd edition, p. 277. + +[2] Prestwich, _Geology_, vol. i. p. 281, where a view of this cave is +given. + + + + +PART V. + +PRE-TERTIARY VOLCANIC ROCKS. + + + + +CHAPTER I. + +THE DECCAN TRAP-SERIES OF INDIA. + + +The great outpourings of augitic lava of Tertiary and recent times which +we have been considering appear to have been anticipated in several +parts of the world, more especially in Peninsular India and in Africa, +and it is desirable that we should devote a few pages to the description +of these remarkable volcanic formations, as they resemble, both in their +mode of occurrence and general structure, some of the great lava-floods +of a more recent period we have been considering. Of the districts to be +described, the first which claims our notice is the Deccan. + +(_a._) _Extent of the Volcanic Plateau._--The volcanic plateau of the +Deccan stretches from the borders of the Western Ghats and the sea-coast +near Bombay inland to Amarantak, at the head of the Narbudda River +(long. 82 deg. E.), and from Belgaum (lat. 15 deg. 31' N.) to near Goona (lat. +24 deg. 30'). The vast area thus circumscribed is far from representing the +original extent of the tract overspread by the lava-floods, as outlying +fragments of these lavas are found as far east as long. 84 deg. E. in one +direction, and at Kattiwar and Cutch in another. The present area, +however, is estimated to be not less than 200,000 square miles.[1] + +(_b._) _Nature and Thickness of the Lava-flows._--This tract is +overspread almost continuously by sheets of basaltic lava, with +occasional bands of fresh-water strata containing numerous shells, +figured and described by Hislop, and believed by him to be of Lower +Eocene age. The lava-sheets vary considerably in character, ranging from +finest compact basalt to coarsely crystalline dolerite, in which olivine +is abundant. The columnar structure is not prevalent, the rock being +either amorphous, or weathering into concentric shells. Volcanic ash, or +bole, is frequently found separating the different lava-flows; and in +the upper amygdaloidal sheets numerous secondary minerals are found, +such as quartz, agate and jasper, stilbite and chlorite. The total +thickness of the whole series, where complete, is about 6,000 feet, +divided as follows: + +1. Upper trap; with ash and inter-trappean beds 1,500 feet +2. Middle trap; sheets of basalt and ash 4,000 " +3. Lower trap; basalt with inter-trappean beds 500 " + -------- + 6,000 " + ======== + +Throughout the region here described these great sheets of volcanic rock +are everywhere approximately horizontal, and constitute a table-land of +3,000 to 4,000 feet in elevation, breaking off in terraced escarpments, +and penetrated by deep river-valleys, of which the Narbudda is the most +important. The foundation rock is sometimes metamorphic schist, or +gneiss, at other times sandstone referred by Hislop to Jurassic age; and +in no single instance has a volcanic crater or focus of eruption been +observed. But outside the central trappean area volcanic foci are +numerous, as in Cutch, the Rajhipla Hills and the Lower Narbudda valley. +The original excessive fluidity of the Deccan trap is proved by the +remarkable horizontality of the beds over large areas, and the extensive +regions covered by very thin sheets of basalt or dolerite. + +(_c._) _Geological Age._--As regards the geological age of this great +volcanic series much uncertainty exists, owing to the absence of marine +forms in the inter-trappean beds. One single species, _Cardita +variabilis_, has been observed as occurring in these beds, and in the +limestone below the base of the trap at Dudukur. The _facies_ of the +forms in this limestone is Tertiary; but there is a remarkable absence +of characteristic genera. On the other hand, Mr. Blanford states that +the bedded traps are seen to underlie the Eocene Tertiary strata with +_Nummulites_ in Guzerat and Cutch,[2] which would appear to determine +the limit of their age in one direction. On balancing the evidence, +however, it is tolerably clear that the volcanic eruptions commenced +towards the close of the Cretaceous period, and continued into the +commencement of the Tertiary, thus bridging over the interval between +the two epochs; and since the greater sheets have been exposed +throughout the whole of the Tertiary and Quarternary periods, it is not +surprising if they have suffered enormously from denuding agencies, and +that any craters or cones of eruption that may once have existed have +disappeared. + +[1] The Deccan Traps have been described by Sykes, _Geol. Trans._, 2nd +Series, vol. iv.; also Rev. S. Hislop, "On the Geology of the +Neighbourhood of Nagpur, Central India," _Quart. Journ. Geol. Soc._, +vol. x. p. 274; and _Ibid._, vol. xvi. p. 154. Also, H. B. Medlicott and +W. T. Blanford, _Manual of the Geology of India_, vol. i. (1879). + +[2] Blanford, _Geology of Abyssinia_, p. 185. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +ABYSSINIAN TABLE-LANDS. + + +Another region in which the volcanic phenomena bear a remarkable analogy +to those of Central India, just described, is that of Abyssinia. Nor are +these tracts so widely separated that they may not be considered as +portions of one great volcanic area extending from Abyssinia, through +Southern Arabia, into Cutch and the Deccan, in the one direction, while +the great volcanic cones of Kenia and Kilimanjaro, with their +surrounding tracts of volcanic matter, may be the extreme prolongations +in the other. Along this tract volcanic operations are still active in +the Gulf of Aden; and cones quite unchanged in form, and evidently of +very recent date, abound in many places along the coast both of Arabia +and Africa. The volcanic formations of this tract are, however, much +more recent than those which occupy the high plateaux of Central and +Southern Abyssinia of which we are about to speak. + +(_a._) _Physical Features._--Abyssinia forms a compact region of lofty +plateaux intersected by deep valleys, interposed between the basin of +the Nile on the west, and the low-lying tract bordering the Red Sea and +the Indian Ocean on the east. The plateaux are deeply intersected by +valleys and ravines, giving birth to streams which feed the head waters +of the Blue Nile (Bahr el Arak) and the Atbara. Several fine lakes lie +in the lap of the mountains, of which the Zana, or Dembia, is the +largest, and next Ashangi, visited by the British army on its march to +Magdala in 1868, and which, from its form and the volcanic nature of the +surrounding hills, appears to occupy the hollow of an extinct crater. +The table-land of Abyssinia reaches its highest elevation along the +eastern and southern margin, where its average height may be 8,000 to +10,000 feet; but some peaks rise to a height of 12,000 to 15,000 feet in +Shoa and Ankobar.[1] + +(_b._) _Basaltic Lava Sheets._--An enormous area of this country seems +to be composed of volcanic rocks chiefly in the form of sheets of +basaltic lava, which rise into high plateaux, and break off in +steep--sometimes precipitous--mural escarpments along the sides of the +valleys. These are divisible into the following series:-- + +(1) _The Ashangi Volcanic Series._--The earliest forerunners of the more +recent lavas seem to have been erupted in Jurassic times, in the form of +sheets of contemporaneous basalt or dolerite amongst the Antola +limestones which are of this period. But the great mass of the volcanic +rocks are much more recent, and may be confidently referred to the late +Cretaceous or early Tertiary epochs. Their resemblance to the great +trappean series of Western India, even in minute particulars, is +referred to by Mr. Blanford, who suggests the view that they belong to +one and the same great series of lava-flows extruded over the surface of +this part of the globe. This view is inherently probable. They consist +of basalts and dolerites, generally amygdaloidal, with nodules of agate +and zeolite, and are frequently coated with green-earth (chlorite). Beds +of volcanic ash or breccia also frequently occur, and often contain +augite crystals. At Senafe, hills of trachyte passing into claystone and +basalt were observed by Mr. Blanford, but it is not clear what are their +relations to the plateau-basaltic sheets.[2] + +(2) _Magdala Volcanic Series._--This is a more recent group of volcanic +lavas, chiefly distinguished from the lower, or Ashangi, group, by the +occurrence of thick beds of trachyte, usually more or less crystalline, +and containing beautiful crystals of sanidine. The beds of trachyte +break off in precipitous scarps, and being of great thickness and +perfectly horizontal, are unusually conspicuous. Mr. Blanford says, with +regard to this group, that there is a remarkable resemblance in its +physical aspect to the scenery of the Deccan and the higher valleys of +the Western Ghats of India, but the peculiarities of the landscape are +exaggerated in Abyssinia. Many of the trachytic beds are brecciated and +highly columnar; sedimentary beds are also interstratified with those of +volcanic origin. The Magdala group is unconformable to that of Ashangi +in some places. A still more recent group of volcanic rocks appears to +occur in the neighbourhood of Senafe, consisting of amorphous masses of +trachyte, often so fine-grained and compact as to pass into claystone +and to resemble sandstone. At Akub Teriki the rocks appear to be in the +immediate vicinity of an ancient vent of eruption. + +From what has been said, it will be apparent that Abyssinia offers +volcanic phenomena of great interest for the observer. There is +considerable variety in the rock masses, in their mode of distribution, +and in the scenery which they produce. The extensive horizontal sheets +of lava are suggestive of fissure-eruption rather than of eruption +through volcanic craters; and although these may have once been in +existence, denudation has left no vestiges of them at the present day. +In all these respects the resemblance of the volcanic phenomena to those +of Peninsular India is remarkably striking; it suggests the view that +they are contemporaneous as regards the time of their eruption, and +similar as regards their mode of formation. + +[1] W. T. Blanford, _Geology of Abyssinia_, pp. 151-2. + +[2] Blanford, _loc. cit._, p. 182. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +CAPE COLONY. + + +_Basalt of the Plateau._--The extensive sheets of plateau-basalt forming +portions of the Neuweld range and the elevated table-land of Cape +Colony, may be regarded as forerunners of those just described, and +possibly contemporaneous with the Ashangi volcanic series of Abyssinia. +The great basaltic sheets of the Cape Colony are found capping the +highest elevations of the Camderboo and Stormberg ranges, as well as +overspreading immense areas of less elevated land, to an extent, +according to Professor A. H. Green, of at least 120,000 square miles.[1] +Amongst these sheets, innumerable dykes, and masses of solid lava which +filled the old vents of eruption, are to be observed. The floor upon +which the lava-floods have been poured out generally consists of the +"Cave Sandstone," the uppermost of a series of deposits which had +previously been laid down over the bed of an extensive lake which +occupied this part of Africa during the Mesozoic period. After the +deposition of this sandstone, the volcanic forces appear to have burst +through the crust, and from vents and fissures great floods of augitic +lava, with beds of tuff, invaded the region occupied by the waters of +the lake. The lava-sheets have since undergone extensive denudation, and +are intersected by valleys and depressions eroded down through them into +the sandstone floor beneath; and though the precise geological period at +which they were extruded must remain in doubt, it appears probable that +they may be referred to that of the Trias.[2] + +[1] Green. "On the Geology of the Cape Colony," _Quart. Jour. Geol. +Soc._, vol. xliv. (1888). + +[2] The district lying along the south coast of Africa is described by +Andrew G. Bain, in the _Trans. Geol. Soc._, vol. vii. (1845); but there +is little information regarding the volcanic region here referred to. + + + + +CHAPTER IV. + +VOLCANIC ROCKS OF PAST GEOLOGICAL PERIODS OF THE BRITISH ISLES. + + +It is beyond the scope of this work to describe the volcanic rocks of +pre-Tertiary times over various parts of the globe. The subject is far +too large to be treated otherwise than in a distinct and separate essay. +I will therefore content myself with a brief enumeration of the +formations of the British Isles in which contemporaneous volcanic action +has been recognised.[1] + +There is little evidence of volcanic action throughout the long lapse of +time extending backwards from the Cretaceous to the Triassic epochs, +that is to say, throughout the Mesozoic or Secondary period, and it is +not till we reach the Palaeozoic strata that evidence of volcanic action +unmistakably presents itself. + +_Permian Period._--In Ayrshire, and in the western parts of Devonshire, +beds of felspathic porphyry, felstone and ash are interstratified with +strata believed to be of Permian age. In Devonshire these have only +recently been recognised by Dr. Irving and the author as of Permian age, +the strata consisting of beds of breccia, lying at the base of the New +Red Sandstone. Those of Ayrshire have long been recognised as of the +same period; as they rest unconformably on the coal measures, and +consist of porphyrites, melaphyres, and tuffs of volcanic origin. + +_Carboniferous Period._--Volcanic rocks occur amongst the coal-measures +of England and Scotland, while they are also found interbedded with the +Carboniferous Limestone series in Derbyshire, Scotland, and Co. Limerick +in Ireland. The rocks consist chiefly of basalt, dolerite, melaphyre and +felstone. + +_Devonian Period._--Volcanic rocks of Devonian age occur in the South of +Scotland, consisting of felstone-porphyries and melaphyres; also at +Boyle, in Roscommon, and amongst the Glengariff beds near Killarney in +Ireland. + +_Upper Silurian Period._--Volcanic rocks of this stage are only known in +Ireland, on the borders of Cos. Mayo and Galway, west of Lough Mask, and +at the extreme headland of the Dingle Promontory in Co. Kerry. They +consist of porphyrites, felstones and tuffs, or breccias, +contemporaneously erupted during the Wenlock and Ludlow stages. Around +the flanks of Muilrea, beds of purple quartz-felstone with tuff are +interstratified with the Upper Silurian grits and slates. + +_Lower Silurian Period._--Volcanic action was developed on a grand scale +during the Arenig and Caradoc-Bala stages, both in Wales and the Lake +district, and in the Llandeilo stage in the South of Scotland. The +felspathic lavas, with their associated beds of tuff and breccia, rise +into some of the grandest mountain crests of North Wales, such as those +of Cader Idris, Aran Mowddwy, Arenig and Moel Wyn. A similar series is +also represented in Ireland, ranging from Wicklow to Waterford, forming +a double group of felstones, porphyries, breccias, and ash-beds, with +dykes of basalt and dolerite. The same series again appears amidst the +Lower Silurian beds of Co. Louth, near Drogheda. + +_Metamorphic Series presumably of Lower Silurian Age._--If, as seems +highly probable, the great metamorphic series of Donegal and Derry are +the representatives in time of the Lower Silurian series, some of the +great sheets of felspathic and hornblendic trap which they contain are +referable to this epoch. These rocks have undergone a change in +structure along with the sedimentary strata of which they were +originally formed, so that the sheets of (presumably) augitic lava have +been converted into hornblende-rock and schist. Similar masses occur in +North Mayo, south of Belderg Harbour. + +_Cambrian Period._--In the Pass of Llanberis, along the banks of Llyn +Padarn, masses of quartz-porphyry, felsite and agglomerate, or breccia, +indicate volcanic action during this stage. These rocks underlie beds of +conglomerate, slate and grit of the Lower Cambrian epoch, and, as Mr. +Blake has shown, are clearly of volcanic origin, and pass upwards into +the sedimentary strata of the period. A similar group, first recognised +by Professor Sedgwick, stretches southwards from Bangor along the +southern shore of the Menai Straits. Again, we find the volcanic +eruptions of this epoch at St. David's, consisting of diabasic and +felsitic lava, with beds of ash; and in the centre of England, amongst +the grits and slates of Charnwood Forest presumably of Cambrian age, +various felstones, porphyries, and volcanic breccias are found. + +Thus it will be seen that every epoch, from the earliest stage of the +Cambrian to the Permian, in the British Isles, gives evidence of the +existence of volcanic action; from which we may infer that the +originating cause, whatever it may be, has been in operation throughout +all past geological time represented by living forms. The question of +the condition of our globe in Archaean times, and earlier, is one which +only can be discussed on theoretic ground, and is beyond the scope of +this work. + +[1] The reader is referred to Sir A. Geikie's Presidential Address to +the Geological Society (1891) for the latest view of this subject. + +[Illustration: VOLCANIC BAND OF THE MOLUCCAS. +Map showing the volcanic belt to which Krakatoa belongs. The shaded +portion is volcanic.] + + + + +PART VI. + +SPECIAL VOLCANIC AND SEISMIC PHENOMENA. + + + + +CHAPTER I. + +THE ERUPTION OF KRAKATOA IN 1883. + + +I propose to introduce here some account of one of the most terrible +outbursts of volcanic action that have taken place in modern times; +namely, the eruption of the volcano of Krakatoa (a corruption of Rakata) +in the strait of Sunda, between the islands of Sumatra and Java, in the +year 1883. The Malay Archipelago, of which this island once formed a +member, is a region where volcanic action is constant, and where the +outbursts are exceptionally violent. With the great island of Borneo as +a solid, non-volcanic central core, a line of volcanic islands extends +from Chedooba off the coast of Pegu through Sumatra, Java, Sumbawa, +Flores, and, reaching the Moluccas, stretches northwards through the +Philippines into Japan and Kamtschatka. This is probably the most active +volcanic belt in the world, and the recent terrible earthquake and +eruption in Japan (November, 1891) gives proof that the volcanic forces +are as powerful and destructive as ever.[1] + +(_a._) _Dormant Condition down to 1680._--Down to the year 1680, this +island, although from its form and structure evidently volcanic, appears +to have been in a dormant state; its sides were covered with luxuriant +forests, and numerous habitations dotted its shore. But in May of that +year an eruption occurred, owing to which the aspect of Krakatoa as +described by Vogel was entirely changed; the surface of the island when +this writer passed on his voyage to Sumatra appeared burnt up and arid, +while blocks of incandescent rock were being hurled into the air from +four distinct points. After this first recorded eruption the island +relapsed into a state of repose, and except for a stream of molten lava +which issued from the northern extremity, there was no evidence of its +dangerous condition. The luxuriant vegetation of the tropics speedily +re-established itself, and the volcano was generally regarded as +"extinct."[2] History repeats itself; and the history of Vesuvius was +repeated in the case of Krakatoa. + +[Illustration: Fig. 35.--Map Of The Krakatoa Group Of Islands Before +The Eruption Of August 1883 (From Admiralty Chart)] + +(_b._) _Eruption of May, 1883._[3]--On the morning of May 20, 1883, the +inhabitants of Batavia, of Buitenzorg, and neighbouring localities, were +surprised by a confused noise, mingled with detonations resembling the +firing of artillery. The phenomena commenced between ten and eleven +o'clock in the morning, and soon acquired such intensity as to cause +general alarm. The detonations were accompanied by tremblings of the +ground, of buildings and various objects contained in dwellings; but it +was generally admitted that these did not proceed from earthquake +shocks, but from atmospheric vibrations. No deviation of the magnetic +needle was observed at the Meteorological Institute of Batavia; but a +vertical oscillation was apparent, and persons who listened with the ear +placed on the ground, even during the most violent detonations, could +hear no subterranean noise whatever. It became clear that the sounds +came from some volcano burst into activity; but it is strange that for +two whole days it remained uncertain what was the particular volcano to +which the phenomena were to be referred. The detonations appeared, +indeed, to come from the direction of Krakatoa; but from Serang, Anjer, +and Merak, localities situated much nearer Krakatoa than Batavia, the +telegraph announced that neither detonations nor atmospheric vibrations +had been perceived. The distance between Batavia and Krakatoa is +ninety-three English miles. The doubts thus experienced were, however, +soon put to rest by the arrival of an American vessel under the command +of A. R. Thomas, and of other ships which hailed from the straits of +Sunda. From their accounts it was ascertained that in the direction of +Krakatoa the heavens were clouded with ashes, and that a grand column of +smoke, illumined from time to time by flashes of flame, arose from above +the island. Thus after a repose of more than two hundred years, "the +peaceable isle of Krakatoa, inhabited, and covered by thick forests, was +suddenly awakened from its condition of fancied security." + +[Illustration: Fig. 36.--Section from Verlaten Island through Krakatoa, +to show the outline before and after the eruption of August, 1888. The +continuous line shows the former; the dotted line and shading, the +latter; from which it will be observed that the original island has to a +large extent disappeared. The line of section is shown in Fig. 35.] + +(_c._) _Form and Appearance of the Island before the Eruption of +1883._--From surveys made in 1849 and 1881, it would appear that the +island of Krakatoa consisted of three mountains or groups of mountains +(Figs. 35, 36); the southern formed by the cone of Rakata (properly so +called), rising with a scarped face above the sea to a height of over +800 metres (2,622 feet). Adjoining this cone, and rising from the centre +of the island, came the group of Danan, composed of many summits, +probably forming part of the _enceinte annulaire_ of a crater. And near +the northern extremity of the isle, a third group of mammelated heights +could be recognised under the general name of Perboewatan, from which +issued several obsidian lava-flows, with a steep slope; these dated back +perhaps to the period of the first known eruption of 1680. This large +and mountainous island as it existed at the beginning of May, 1883, has +been entirely destroyed by the terrible eruptions of that year, with the +exception of the peripheric rim (composed of the most ancient of the +volcanic rocks, andesite), of which Verlaten Island and Rakata formed a +part, and one very small islet, which is noted on the maps as "rots" +(rock), and on the new map of the Straits of Sunda of the Dutch Navy as +that of "Bootsmansrots."[4] + +As shown by the map in the Report of the Royal Society, the group of +islands which existed previous to 1883 were but the unsubmerged portions +of one vast volcanic crater, built up of a remarkable variety of lava +allied to the andesite of the Java volcanoes, but having a larger +percentage of silica, and hence falling under the head of +"enstatite-dacite."[5] That these volcanic rocks are of very recent +origin is shown by the fact, ascertained by Verbeek, that beneath them +occur deposits of Post-Tertiary age, and that these in turn rest on the +Tertiary strata which are widely distributed through Sumatra, Java, and +the adjoining islands. According to the reasoning of Professor Judd, the +Krakatoa group at an early period of its history presented the form of a +magnificent crater-cone, several miles in circumference at the base, +which subsequent eruptions shattered into fragments or blew into the +air in the form of dust, ashes, and blocks of lava, while the central +part collapsed and fell in, leaving a vast circular ring like the +ancient crater of Somma (see Fig. 6, p. 43), and he supposes the former +eruptions to have been on a scale exceeding in magnificence those which +have caused such world-wide interest within the last few years. + +(_d._) _Eruption of 26th to 28th of August._--It was, as we have seen, +in the month of May that, in the language of Chev. Verbeek, "the volcano +of Krakatoa chose to announce in a high voice to the inhabitants of the +Archipelago that, although almost nothing amongst the many colossal +volcanic mountains of the Indies, it yielded to none of them in regard +to its power." These eruptions were, however, only premonitory of the +tremendous and terrible explosion which was to commence on Sunday, the +26th of August, and which continued for several days subsequently. A +little after noon of that day, a rumbling noise accompanied by short and +feeble explosions was heard at Buitenzorg, coming from the direction of +Krakatoa; and similar sounds were heard at Anjer and Batavia a little +later. Soon these detonations augmented in intensity, especially about +five o'clock in the evening; and news was afterwards received that the +sounds had been heard in the isle of Java. These sounds increased still +more during the night, so that few persons living on the west side of +the isle of Java were able to sleep. At seven in the morning there came +a crash so formidable, that those who had hoped for a little sleep at +Buitenzorg leaped from their beds. Meanwhile the sky, which had up to +this time been clear, became overcast, so that by ten o'clock it became +necessary to have recourse to lamps, and the air became charged with +vapour. Occasional shocks of earthquake were now felt. Darkness became +general all over the straits and the bordering coasts. Showers of ashes +began to fall. The repeated shocks of earthquake, and the rapid +discharges of subterranean artillery, all combined to show that an +eruption of even greater violence than that of May was in progress at +the isle of Krakatoa. + +But the most interested witnesses to this terrible outburst were those +on board the ships plying through the straits. Amongst these was the +_Charles Bal_, a British vessel under the command of Captain Watson. +This ship was ten miles south of the volcano on Sunday afternoon, and +therefore well in sight of the island at the time when the volcano had +entered upon its paroxysmal state of action. Captain Watson describes +the island as being covered by a dense black cloud, while sounds like +the discharges of artillery occurred at intervals of a second of time; +and a crackling noise (probably arising from the impact of fragments of +rock ascending and descending in the atmosphere) was heard by those on +board. These appearances became so threatening towards five o'clock in +the evening, that the commander feared to continue his voyage and began +to shorten sail. From five to six o'clock a rain of pumice in large +pieces, quite warm, fell upon the ship, which was one of those that +escaped destruction during this terrible night.[6] + +(_e._) _Electrical Phenomena._--During this eruption, electrical +phenomena of great splendour were observed. Captain Wooldbridge, +viewing the eruption in the afternoon of the 26th from a distance of +forty miles, speaks of a great vapour-cloud looking like an immense wall +being momentarily lighted up "by bursts of forked lightning like large +serpents rushing through the air. After sunset this dark wall resembled +a blood-red curtain, with edges of all shades of yellow, the whole of a +murky tinge, through which gleamed fierce flashes of lightning." As +Professor Judd observes, the abundant generation of atmospheric +electricity is a familiar phenomenon in all volcanic eruptions on a +grand scale. The steam-jets rushing through the orifices of the earth's +crust constitute an enormous hydro-electrical engine, and the friction +of the ejected materials striking against one another in their ascent +and descent also does much in the way of generating electricity.[7] It +has been estimated by several observers that the column of watery vapour +ascended to a height of from twelve to seventeen and even twenty-three +miles; and on reaching the upper strata of the atmosphere, it spread +itself out in a vast canopy resembling "the pine-tree" form of Vesuvian +eruptions; and throughout the long night of the 27th this canopy +continued to extend laterally, and the particles of dust which it +enclosed began to descend slowly through the air. + +(_f._) _Formation of Waves._--This tremendous outburst of volcanic +forces, which to a greater or less extent influenced the entire surface +of the globe, gave rise to waves which traversed both air and ocean; and +in consequence of the large number of observatories scattered all over +the globe, and the excellence and delicacy of the instruments of +observation, we are put in possession of the remarkable results which +have been obtained from the collection of the observations in the hands +of competent specialists. The results are related _in extenso_ in the +Report of the Royal Society, illustrated by maps and diagrams, and are +worthy of careful study by those interested in terrestrial phenomena. A +brief summary is all that can be given here, but it will probably +suffice to bring home to the reader the magnitude and grandeur of the +eruption. + +The vibrations or waves generated in August, 1883, at Krakatoa may be +arranged under three heads: (1) Atmospheric Waves; (2) Sound Waves; and +(3) Oceanic Waves; which I will touch upon in the order here stated. + +(1) _Atmospheric Waves._--These phenomena have been ably handled by +General Strachey,[8] from a large number of observations extending all +over the globe. From these it has been clearly established that an +atmospheric wave, originating at Krakatoa as a centre, expanded outwards +in a circular form and travelled onwards till it became a great circle +at a distance of 180 degrees from its point of origin, after which it +still advanced, but now gradually contracting to a node at the antipodes +of Krakatoa; that is to say, at a point over the surface of North +America, situated in lat. 6 deg. N. and long. 72 deg. W. (or thereabout). Having +attained this position, the wave was reflected or reproduced, expanding +outwards for 180 degrees and travelling backwards again to Krakatoa, +from which it again started, and returning to its original form again +overspread the globe. This wonderful repetition, due to the spherical +form of the earth, was observed no fewer than seven times, though with +such diminished force as ultimately to be outside the range of +observation by the most sensitive instruments. It is one of the triumphs +of modern scientific appliances that the course of such a wave, +generated in a fluid surrounding a globe, which might be demonstrated on +mathematical principles, has been actually determined by experiments +carried on over so great an area. + +(2) _Sound Waves._--If the sound-waves produced at the time of maximum +eruption were not quite as far-reaching as those of the air, they were +certainly sufficiently surprising to be almost incredible, were it not +that they rest, both as regards time and character, upon incontestible +authority. The sound of the eruption, resembling that of the discharge +of artillery, was heard not only over nearly all parts of Sumatra, Java, +and the coast of Borneo opposite the Straits of Sunda, but at places +over two thousand miles distant from the scene of the explosions. +Detailed accounts, collected with great care, are given in the Report of +the Royal Society, from which the following are selected as examples:-- + + 1. At the port of Acheen, at the northern extremity of Sumatra, + distant 1,073 miles, it was supposed that the port was being + attacked, and the troops were put under arms. + + 2. At Singapore, distant 522 miles, two steamers were dispatched to + look out for the vessel which was supposed to be firing guns as + signals of distress. + + 3. At Bankok, in Siam, distant 1,413 miles, the report was heard on + the 27th; as also at Labuan, in Borneo, distant 1,037 miles. + + 4. At places in the Philippine Islands, distant about 1,450 miles, + detonations were heard on the 27th, at the time of the eruption. + +The above places lie northwards of Krakatoa. In the opposite direction, +we have the following examples:-- + + 5. At Perth, in Western Australia, distant 1,092 miles, sounds as + of guns firing at sea were heard; and at the Victorian Plains, + distant about 1,700 miles, similar sounds were heard. + + 6. In South Australia, at Alice's Springs, Undoolga, and other + places at distances of over 2,000 miles, the sounds of the eruption + were also heard. + + 7. In a westerly direction at Dutch Bay, Ceylon, distant 2,058 + miles, the sounds were heard between 7 a.m. and 10 a.m. on the + morning of the 27th of August. + + 8. Lastly, at the Chagos Islands, distant 2,267 miles, the + detonations were audible between 10 and 11 a.m. of the same day. + +Some of the above distances are so great that we may fail to realise +them; but they will be more easily appreciated, perhaps, if we change +the localities to our own side of the globe, and take two or three cases +with similar distances. Then, if the eruption had taken place amongst +the volcanoes of the Canaries, the detonations would have been heard at +Gibraltar, at Lisbon, at Portsmouth, Southampton, Cork, and probably at +Dublin and Liverpool; or, again, supposing the eruption had taken place +on the coast of Iceland, the report would have been heard all over the +western and northern coasts of the British Isles, as well as at +Amsterdam and the Hague. The enormous distance to which the sound +travelled in the case of Krakatoa was greatly due to the fact that the +explosions took place at the surface of the sea, and the sound was +carried along that surface uninterruptedly to the localities recorded; a +range of mountains intervening would have cut off the sound-wave at a +comparatively short distance from its source. + +(3) _Oceanic Waves._--As may be supposed, the eruption gave rise to +great agitation of the ocean waters with various degrees of vertical +oscillation; but according to the conclusions of Captain Wharton, +founded on numerous data, the greatest wave seems to have originated at +Krakatoa about 10 a.m. on the 27th of August, rising on the coasts of +the Straits of Sunda to a height of fifty feet above the ordinary +sea-level. This wave appears to have been observed over at least half +the globe. It travelled westwards to the coast of Hindostan and Southern +Arabia, ultimately reaching the coasts of France and England. Eastwards +it struck the coast of Australia, New Zealand, the Sandwich Islands, +Alaska, and the western coast of North America; so that it was only the +continent of North and South America which formed a barrier (and that +not absolute) to the circulation of this oceanic wave all over the +globe. The destruction to life and property caused by this wave along +the coasts of Sunda was very great. Combined with the earthquake shocks +(which, however, were not very severe), the tremendous storm of wind, +the fall of ashes and cinders, and the changes in the sea-bed, it +produced in the Straits of Sunda for some time after the eruption a +disastrous transformation. Lighthouses had been swept away; all the old +familiar landmarks on the shore were obscured by a vast deposit of +volcanic dust; the sea itself was encumbered with enormous quantities of +floating pumice, in many places of such thickness that no vessel could +force its way through them; and for months after the eruption one of the +principal channels was greatly obstructed by two islands which had +arisen in its midst. The Sebesi channel was completely blocked by banks +composed of volcanic materials, and two portions of these banks rose +above the sea as islands, which received the name of "Steers Island" and +"Calmeyer Island"; but these, by the action of the waves, have since +been completely swept away, and the materials strewn over the bed of the +sea.[9] + +(_g._) _Atmospheric Effects._--But the face of nature, even in her most +terrific and repulsive aspect, is seldom altogether unrelieved by some +traces of beauty. In contrast to the fearful and disastrous phenomena +just described, is to be placed the splendour of the heavens, witnessed +all over the central regions of the globe throughout a period of several +months after the eruption of 1883, which has been ably treated by the +Hon. Rollo Russell and Mr. C. D. Archibald, in the Royal Society's +Report. + +When the particles of lava and ashes mingled with vapour were projected +into the air with a velocity greater than that of a ball discharged from +the largest Armstrong gun, these materials were carried by the prevalent +trade-winds in a westerly direction, and some of them fell on the deck +of ships sailing in the Indian Ocean as far as long. 80 deg. E., as in the +case of the _British Empire_--on which the particles fell on the 29th of +August, at a distance of 1,600 miles from Krakatoa. But far beyond this +limit, the finer particles of dust (or rather minute crystals of felspar +and other minerals), mingled with vapour of water, were carried by the +higher currents of the air as far as the Seychelles and Africa,--not +only the East coast, but also the West, as Cape Coast Castle on the Gold +Coast; to Paramaribo, Trinidad, Panama, the Sandwich Isles, Ceylon and +British India, at all of which places during the month of September the +sun assumed tints of blue or green, as did also the moon just before and +after the appearance of the stars;[10] and from the latter end of +September and for several months, the sky was remarkable for its +magnificent coloration; passing from crimson through purple to yellow, +and melting away in azure tints which were visible in Europe and the +British Isles; while a large corona was observed round both the sun and +moon. These beautiful sky effects were objects of general observation +throughout the latter part of the year 1883 and commencement of the +following year. + +The explanation of these phenomena may be briefly stated. The fine +particles, consisting for the most part of translucent crystals, or +fragments of crystals, formed a canopy high up in the atmosphere, being +gradually spread over both sides of the equator till it formed a broad +belt, through which the rays of the sun and moon were refracted. Towards +dawn and sunset they were refracted and reflected from the facets of the +crystal, and thus underwent decomposition into the prismatic colours; as +do the rays of the sun when refracted and reflected from the particles +of moisture in a rain-cloud. The subject is one which cannot be fully +dealt with here, and is rather outside the scope of this work. + +(_h._) _Origin of the Eruption._--The ultimate cause of volcanic +eruptions is treated in a subsequent chapter, nor is that of Krakatoa +essentially different from others. It was remarkable, however, both for +the magnitude of the forces evoked and the stupendous scale of the +resulting phenomena. It is evident that water played an important part +in these phenomena, though not as the prime mover;--any more than water +in the boiler of a locomotive is the prime mover in the generation of +the steam. Without the fuel in the furnace the steam would not be +produced; and the amount of steam generated will be proportional to the +quantity and heat of the fuel in the furnace and the quantity of water +in the boiler. In the case of Krakatoa, both these elements were +enormous and inexhaustible. The volcanic chimney (or system of +chimneys), being situated on an island, was readily accessible to the +waters of the ocean when fissures gave them access to the interior +molten matter. That such fissures were opened we may well believe. The +earthquakes which occurred at the beginning of May, and later on, on the +27th of that month, may indicate movements of the crust by which water +gained access. It appears that in May the only crater in a state of +activity was that of Perboewatan; in June another crater came into +action, connected with Danan in the centre of the island, and in August +a third burst forth. Thus there was progressive activity up to the +commencement of the grand eruption of the 26th of that month.[11] During +this last paroxysmal stage, the centre of the island gave way and sunk +down, when the waters of the ocean gained free access, and meeting with +the columns of molten matter rising from below originated the prodigious +masses of steam which rose into the air. + +(_i._) _Cause of the Detonations._--The detonations which accompanied +the last great eruption are repeatedly referred to in all the accounts. +These may have been due, not only to the sudden explosions of steam +directly produced by the ocean water coming in contact with the molten +lava, but by dissociation of the vapour of water at the critical point +of temperature into its elements of oxygen and hydrogen; the reunion of +these elements at the required temperature would also result in +explosions. + +The phenomena attending this great volcanic eruption, so carefully +tabulated and critically examined, will henceforth be referred to as +constituting an epoch in the history of volcanic action over the globe, +and be of immense value for reference and comparison. + +[1] The eruption of Krakatoa has been the subject of an elaborate Report +published by the Royal Society, and is also described in a work by +Chevalier R. D. M. Verbeek, Ingenieur en Chef des Mines, and published +by order of the Governor-General of the Netherland Indies (1886). See +also an Article by Sir R. S. Ball in the _Contemporary Review_ for +November, 1888. + +[2] Verbeek, _loc. cit._, p. 4. + +[3] The account of this eruption is a free translation from Verbeek. + +[4] Verbeek, _loc. cit._, p. 160. + +[5] Judd, _Rep. R. S._ + +[6] A fuller account by Prof. Judd will be found in the _Report of the +Royal Society_, p. 14. Several vessels at anchor were driven ashore on +the straits owing to the strong wind which arose. + +[7] Judd, _Report_, p. 21. + +[8] _Report_, Part ii. + +[9] In this eruption, 36,380 human beings perished, of whom 37 were +Europeans; 163 villages (_kampoengs_) were entirely, and 132 partially, +destroyed.--Verbeek, _loc. cit._, p. 79. + +[10] Verbeek, _loc. cit._, p. 144-5. The dust put a girdle round the +earth in thirteen days. + +[11] Verbeek, _loc. cit._, p. 30. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +EARTHQUAKES. + + +_Connection of Earthquakes with Volcanic Action._--The connection +between earthquake shocks and volcanic eruptions is now so generally +recognised that it is unnecessary to insist upon it here. All volcanic +districts over the globe are specially liable to vibrations of the +crust; but at the same time it is to be recollected that these movements +visit countries occasionally from which volcanoes, either recent or +extinct, are absent; in which cases we may consider earthquake shocks to +be abortive attempts to originate volcanic action. + +(_a._) _Origin._--From the numerous observations which have been made +regarding the nature of these phenomena by Hopkins, Lyell, and others, +it seems clearly established that earthquakes have their origin in some +sudden impact of gas, steam, or molten matter impelled by gas or steam +under high pressure, beneath the solid crust.[1] How such impact +originates we need not stop to inquire, as the cause is closely +connected with that which produces volcanic eruptions. The effect, +however, of such impact is to originate a wave of translation through +the crust, travelling outwards from the point, or focus, on the surface +immediately over the point of impact.[2] These waves of translation can +in some cases be laid down on a map, and are called "isoseismal curves," +each curve representing approximately an equal degree of seismal +intensity; as shown on the chart of a part of North America affected by +the great Charleston earthquake. (Fig. 37.) Mr. Hopkins has shown that +the earthquake-wave, when it passes through rocks differing in density +and elasticity, changes in some degree not only its velocity, but its +direction; being both refracted and reflected in a manner analogous to +that of light when it passes from one medium to another of different +density.[3] When a shock traverses the crust through a thickness of +several miles it will meet with various kinds of rock as well as with +fissures and plications of the strata, owing to which its course will be +more or less modified. + +(_b._) _Formation of Fissures._--During earthquake movements, fissures +may be formed in the crust, and filled with gaseous or melted matter +which may not in all cases reach the surface; and, on the principle that +volcanoes are safety-valves for regions beyond their immediate +influence, we may infer that the earthquake shock, which generally +precedes the outburst of a volcano long dormant, finds relief by the +eruption which follows; so that whatever may be the extent of the +disastrous results of such an eruption, they would be still more +disastrous if there had been no such safety-valve as that afforded by a +volcanic vent. Thus, probably, owing to the extinction of volcanic +activity in Syria, the earthquakes in that region have been peculiarly +destructive. For example, on January 1, 1837, the town of Safed west of +the Jordan valley was completely destroyed by an earthquake in which +most of the inhabitants perished. The great earthquakes of Aleppo in the +present century, and of Syria in the middle of the eighteenth, were of +exceptional severity. In that of Syria, which took place in 1759, and +which was protracted during a period of three months, an area of 10,000 +square leagues was affected. Accon, Saphat, Baalbeck, Damascus, Sidon, +Tripoli, and other places were almost entirely levelled to the ground; +many thousands of human beings lost their lives.[4] Other examples might +be cited. + +(_c._) _Earthquake Waves._--We have now to return to the phenomena +connected with the transmission of earthquake-waves. The velocity of +transmission through the earth is very great, and several attempts have +been made to measure this velocity with accuracy. The most valuable of +such attempts are those connected with the Charleston and Riviera +shocks. Fortunately, owing to the perfection of modern appliances, and +the number of observers all over the globe, these results are entitled +to great confidence. The phenomena connected with the Charleston +earthquake, which took place on the 31st of August, 1886, are described +in great detail by Captain Clarence E. Dutton, of the U.S. Ordnance +Corps.[5] The conclusions arrived at are;--that as regards the depth of +the focal point, this is estimated at twelve miles, with a probable +error of less than two miles; while, as regards the rate of travel of +the earthquake-wave, the estimate is (in one case) about 3.236 miles per +second; and in another about 3.226 miles per second. + +On the other hand, in the case of the earthquake of the Riviera, which +took place on the 23rd of February, 1887, at 5.30 a.m. (local time), the +vibrations of which appear to have extended across the Atlantic, and to +have sensibly affected the seismograph in the Government Signal Office +at Washington, the rate of travel was calculated at about 500 miles per +hour, less than one-half that determined in the case of Charleston; but +Captain Dutton claims, and probably with justice, that the results +obtained in the latter case are far more reliable than any hitherto +arrived at. + +(_d._) _Oceanic Waves._--When the originating impact takes place under +the bed of the ocean--either by a sudden up-thrust of the crust to the +extent, let us suppose, of two or three feet, or by an explosion from a +submarine volcano--a double wave is formed, one travelling through the +crust, the other through the ocean; and as the rate of velocity of the +former is greatly in excess of that of the latter, the results on their +reaching the land are often disastrous in the extreme. It is the +ocean-wave, however, which is the more important, and calls for special +consideration. If the impact takes place in very deep water, the whole +mass of the water is raised in the form of a low dome, sloping equally +away in all directions; and it commences to travel outwards as a wave +with an advancing crest until it approaches the coast and enters shallow +water. The wave then increases in height, and the water in front is +drawn in and relatively lowered; so that on reaching a coast with a +shelving shore the form of the surface consists of a trough in front +followed by an advancing crest. These effects may be observed on a small +scale in the case of a steamship advancing up a river, or into a harbour +with a narrow channel, but are inappreciable in deep water, or along a +precipitous open coast. + +(_e._) _The Earthquake of Lisbon, 1755._--The disastrous results of a +submarine earthquake upon the coast have never been more terribly +illustrated than in the case of the earthquake of Lisbon which took +place on November 1, 1755. The inhabitants had no warning of the coming +danger, when a sound like that of thunder was heard underground, and +immediately afterwards a violent shock threw down the greater part of +their city; this was the land-wave. In the course of about six minutes, +sixty thousand persons perished. The sea first retired and left the +harbour dry, so forming the trough in front of the crest; immediately +after the water rolled in with a lofty crest, some 50 feet above the +ordinary level, flooding the harbour and portions of the city bordering +the shore. The mountains of Arrabida, Estrella, Julio, Marvan, and +Cintra, were impetuously shaken, as it were, from their very +foundations; and according to the computation of Humboldt, a portion of +the earth's surface four times the extent of Europe felt the effects of +this great seismic shock, which extended to the Alps, the shores of the +Baltic, the lakes of Scotland, the great lakes of North America, and +the West Indian Islands. The velocity of the sea-wave was estimated at +about 20 miles per minute. + +(_f._) _Earthquake of Lima and Callao, 28th October, 1746._--Of somewhat +similar character was the terrible catastrophe with which the cities of +Lima and Callao were visited in the middle of the last century,[6] in +which the former city, then one of great magnificence, was overthrown; +and Callao was inundated by a sea-wave, in which out of 23 ships of all +sizes in the harbour the greater number foundered; several, including a +man-of-war, were lifted bodily and stranded, and all the inhabitants +with the exception of about two hundred were drowned. A volcano in +Lucanas burst forth the same night, and such quantities of water +descended from the cone that the whole country was overflowed; and in +the mountain near Pataz, called Conversiones de Caxamarquilla, three +other volcanoes burst forth, and torrents of water swept down their +sides. In the case of these cities, the land-wave, or shock, preceded +the sea-wave, which of course only reached the port of Callao. + +[Illustration: Fig. 37.--The lines represent isoseismal curves, or +curves of equal intensity, the force decreasing outwards from the focus +at Charleston, No. 10.] + +(_g._) _Earthquake of Charleston, 31st August, 1886._--I shall close +this account of some remarkable earthquakes with a few facts regarding +that of Charleston, on the Atlantic seaboard of Carolina.[7] At 9.51 +a.m. of this day, the inhabitants engaged in their ordinary occupations +were startled by the sound of a distant roar, which speedily deepened in +volume so as to resemble the noise of cannon rattling along the road, +"spreading into an awful noise, that seemed to pervade at once the +troubled earth below and the still air above." At the same time the +floors began to heave underfoot, the walls visibly swayed to and fro, +and the crash of falling masonry was heard on all sides, while +universal terror took possession of the populace, who rushed into the +streets, the black portion of the community being the most demonstrative +of their terror. Such was the commencement of the earthquake, by which +nearly all the houses of Charleston were damaged or destroyed, many of +the public buildings seriously injured or partially demolished. The +effects were felt all over the States as far as the great lakes of +Canada and the borders of the Rocky Mountains. Two epicentral _foci_ +appear to have been established; one lying about 15 miles to the N.W. of +Charleston, called the _Woodstock focus_; the other about 14 miles due +west of Charleston, called the _Rantowles focus_; around each of these +_foci_ the isoseismic curves concentrated,[8] but in the map (Fig. 37) +are combined into the area of one curve. The position of these _foci_ +clearly shows that the origin of the Charleston earthquake was not +submarine, though occurring within a short distance of the Atlantic +border; the curves of equal intensity (isoseismals) are drawn all over +the area influenced by the shock. + +As a general result of these detailed observations, Captain Dutton +states that there is a remarkable coincidence in the phenomena with +those indicated by the theory of wave-motion as the proper one for an +elastic, nearly homogeneous, solid medium, composed of such materials as +we know to constitute the rocks of the outer portions of the earth; but +on the other hand he states that nothing has been disclosed which seems +to bring us any nearer to the precise nature of the forces which +generated the disturbance.[9] + +[1] The views of Mr. R. Mallet, briefly stated, are somewhat as +follows:--Owing to the secular cooling of the earth, and the consequent +lateral crushing of the surface, this crushing from time to time +overcomes the resistance; in which case shocks are experienced along the +lines of fracture and faulting by which the crust is intersected. These +shocks give rise to earthquake waves, and as the crushing of the walls +of the fissure developes heat, we have here the _vera causa_ both of +volcanic eruptions and earthquake shocks--the former intensified into +explosions by access of water through the fissures.--"On the Dynamics of +Earthquakes," _Trans. Roy. Irish Acad._, vol. xxi. + +[2] Illustration of the mode of propagation of earthquake shocks will be +found in Lyell's _Principles of Geology_, vol. ii. p. 136, or in the +author's _Physiography_, p. 76, after Hopkins. + +[3] "Rep. on Theories of Elevation and Earthquakes," _Brit. Ass. Rep._ +1847, p. 33. In the map prepared by Prof. J. Milne and Mr. W. K. Burton +to show the range of the great earthquake of Japan (1891), similar +isoseismal lines are laid down. + +[4] Lyell, _loc. cit._, p. 163. Two Catalogues of Earthquakes have been +drawn up by Prof. O'Reilly, and are published in the _Trans. Roy. Irish +Academy_, vol. xxviii. (1884 and 1886). + +[5] _Ninth Annual Report, U.S. Geological Survey_ (1888). + +[6] _A True and Particular Account of the Dreadful Earthquake_, 2nd +edit. The original published at Lima by command of the Viceroy. London, +1748. Translated from the Spanish. + +[7] I take the account from that of Capt. Dutton above cited, p. 220. + +[8] Dutton, _Report_, Plate xxvi., p. 308. + +[9] _Ibid._, p. 211. On the connection between the moon's position and +earthquake shocks, see Mr. Richardson's paper on Scottish earthquakes, +_Trans. Edin. Geol. Soc._, vol. vi. p. 194 (1892). + + + + +PART VII. + +VOLCANIC AND SEISMIC PROBLEMS. + + + + +CHAPTER I. + +THE ULTIMATE CAUSE OF VOLCANIC ACTION. + + +Volcanic phenomena are the outward manifestations of forces deep-seated +beneath the crust of the globe; and in seeking for the causes of such +phenomena we must be guided by observation of their nature and mode of +action. The universality of these phenomena all over the surface of our +globe, in past or present times, indicates the existence of a general +cause beneath the crust. It is true that there are to be found large +tracts from which volcanic rocks (except those of great geological +antiquity) are absent, such as Central Russia, the Nubian Desert, and +the Central States of North America; but such absence by no means +implies the non-existence of the forces which give rise to volcanic +action beneath those regions, but only that the forces have not been +sufficiently powerful to overcome the resistance offered by the crust +over those particular tracts. On the other hand, the similarity of +volcanic lavas over wide regions is strong evidence that they are drawn +from one continuous magma, consisting of molten matter beneath the +solid exterior crust. + +(_a._) _Lines of Volcanic Action._--It has been shown in a previous page +that volcanic action of recent or Tertiary times has taken place mainly +along certain lines which may be traced on the surface of a map or +globe. One of these lines girdles the whole globe, while others lie in +certain directions more or less coincident with lines of flexure, +plication or faulting. The Isle of Sumatra offers a remarkable example +of the coincidence of such lines with those of volcanic vents. Not only +the great volcanic cones, but also the smaller ones, are disposed in +chains which run parallel to the longitudinal axis of the island +(N.W.-S.E.). The sedimentary rocks are bent and faulted in lines +parallel to the main axis, and also to the chains of volcanic mountains, +and the observation holds good with regard to different geological +periods.[1] Another remarkable case is that of the Jordan Valley. +Nowhere can the existence of a great fracture and vertical displacement +of the strata be more clearly determined than along this remarkable line +of depression; and it is one which is also coincident with a zone of +earthquake and volcanic disturbances. + +(_b._) _Such Lines generally lie along the Borders of the Ocean._--But +even where, from some special cause, actual observation on the relations +of the strata are precluded, the general configuration of the ground and +the relations of the boundaries between land and sea to those of +volcanic chains, evidently point in many cases to their mutual +interdependence. The remarkable straightness of the coast of Western +America, and of the parallel chain of the Andes, affords presumptive +evidence that this line is coincident with a fracture or system of +faults, along which the continent has been bodily raised out of the +waters of the ocean. Of this elevation within very recent times we have +abundant evidence in the existence of raised coral-reefs and oceanic +shell-beds at intervals all along the coast; rising in Peru to a level +of no less than 3,000 feet above the ocean, as shown by Alexander +Agassiz.[2] Such elevations probably occurred at a time when the +volcanoes of the Andes were much more active than at present. Considered +as a whole, these great volcanic mountains may be regarded as in a +dormant, or partially moribund, condition; and if the volcanic forces +have to some extent lost their strength, so it would appear have those +of elevation. + +(_c._) _Areas of Volcanic Action in the British Isles._--In the case of +the British Islands it may be observed that the later Tertiary volcanic +districts lie along very ancient depressions, which may indicate zones +of weakness in the crust. Thus the Antrim plateau, as originally +constituted, lay in the lap of a range of hills formed of crystalline, +or Lower Silurian, rocks; while the volcanic isles of the Inner Hebrides +were enclosed between the solid range of the Archaean rocks of the Outer +Hebrides on the one side, and the Silurian and Archaean ranges of the +mainland on the other. And if we go back to the Carboniferous period, we +find that the volcanic district of the centre of Scotland was bounded by +ranges of solid strata both to the north and south, where the resistance +to interior pressure from molten matter would have been greater than in +the Carboniferous hollow-ground, where such molten matter has been +abundantly extruded. In all these cases, the outflow of molten matter +was in a direction somewhat parallel to the plications of the strata. + +(_d._) _Special Conditions under which the Volcanic Action +operates._--Assuming, then, that the molten matter, forming an interior +magma or shell, is constantly exerting pressure against the inner +surface of the solid crust, and can only escape where the crust is too +weak (owing to faults, plications, or fissures) to resist the pressure, +we have to inquire what are the special conditions under which outbursts +of volcanic matter take place, and what are the general results as +regards the nature of the _ejecta_ dependent on those conditions. + +(_e._) _Effect of the Presence or Absence of Water._--The two chief +conditions determining the nature of volcanic products, considered in +the mass, are the presence or absence of water. Such presence or absence +does not of course affect the essential chemical composition of the +_ejecta_, but it materially influences the form in which the matter is +erupted. The agency of water in volcanic eruptions is a very interesting +and important subject in connection with the history of volcanic action, +and has been ably treated by Professor Prestwich.[3] At one time it was +considered that water was essential to volcanic activity; and the fact +that the great majority of volcanic cones are situated in the vicinity +of the oceanic waters, or of inland seas, was pointed to in confirmation +of this theory. But the existence in Western America and other volcanic +countries of fissures of eruption along which molten lava has been +extruded without explosions of steam, shows that water is not an +essential factor in the production of volcanic phenomena; and, as +Professor Prestwich has clearly demonstrated, it is to be regarded as an +element in volcanic explosions, rather than as a prime cause of volcanic +action. The main difficulty he shows to be thermo-dynamical; and +calculating the rate of increase in the elastic force of steam on +descending to greater and greater depths and reaching strata of higher +and higher temperatures, as compared with the force of capillarity, he +comes to the conclusion that water cannot penetrate to depths of more +than seven or eight miles, and therefore cannot reach the seat of the +eruptive forces. Professor Prestwich also points out that if the +extrusion of lava were due to the elastic force of vapour of water there +should be a distinct relation between the discharge of the lava and of +the vapour; whereas the result of an examination of a number of +well-recorded eruptions shows that the two operations are not related, +and are, in fact, perfectly independent. Sometimes there has been a +large discharge of lava, and little or no escape of steam; at other +times there have been paroxysmal explosive eruptions with little +discharge of lava. Even in the case of Vesuvius, which is close to the +sea, there have been instances when the lava has welled out almost with +the tranquillity of a water-spring. + +(_f._) _Access of Surface Water to Molten Lava during Eruptions._--The +existence of water during certain stages in eruptions is too frequent a +phenomena to be lost sight of; but its presence may be accounted for in +other ways, besides proximity to the sea or ocean. Certain volcanic +mountains, such as Etna and Vesuvius, are built upon water-bearing +strata, receiving their supplies from the rainfall of the surrounding +country, or perhaps partly from the sea. In addition to this the ashes +and scoriae of the mountain sides are highly porous, and rain or snow can +penetrate and settle downwards around the pipe or throat through which +molten lava wells up from beneath. In such cases it is easy to +understand how, at the commencement of a period of activity, molten lava +ascending through one or more fissures, and meeting with water-charged +strata or scoriae, will convert the water into steam at high pressure, +resulting in explosions more or less violent and prolonged, in +proportion to the quantity of water and the depth to which it has +penetrated. In this manner we may suppose that ashes, scoriae, and blocks +of rock torn from the sides of the crater-throat, and hurled into the +air, are piled around the vent, and accumulate into hills or mountains +of conical form. After the explosion has exhausted itself, the molten +lava quietly wells up and fills the crater, as in the cases of those of +Auvergne and Syria, and other places. We may, therefore, adopt the +general principle that in volcanic eruptions _where water in large +quantities is present, we shall have crater-cones built up of ashes, +scoriae, and pumice; but where absent, the lava will be extravasated in +sheets to greater or less distances without the formation of such cones; +or if cones are fanned, they will be composed of solidified lava only, +easily distinguishable from crater-cones of the first class_. + +(_g._) _Nature of the Interior Reservoir from which Lavas are +derived._--We have now to consider the nature of the interior reservoir +from which lavas are derived, and the physical conditions necessary for +their eruption at the surface. + +Without going back to the question of the original condition of our +globe, we may safely hold the view that at a very early period of +geological history it consisted of a solidified crust at a high +temperature, enfolding a globe of molten matter at a still higher +temperature. As time went on, and the heat radiated into space from the +surface of the globe, while at the same time slowly ascending from the +interior by conduction, the crust necessarily contracted, and pressing +more and more on the interior molten magma, this latter was forced from +time to time to break through the contracting crust along zones of +weakness or fissures. + +(_h._) _The Earth's Crust in a State of both Exterior Thrust and of +Interior Tension._--As has been shown by Hopkins,[4] and more recently +by Mr. Davison,[5] an exterior crust in such a condition must eventually +result in being under a state of horizontal thrust towards the exterior +and of tension towards the interior surface. For the exterior portion, +having cooled down, and consequently contracted to its normal state, +will remain rigid up to a certain point of resistance; but the interior +portion still continuing to contract, owing to the conduction of the +heat towards the exterior, would tend to enter upon a condition of +tension, as becoming too small for the interior molten magma; and such a +state of tension would tend to produce rupture of the interior part. In +this manner fissures would be formed into which the molten matter would +enter; and if the fissures happened to extend to the surface, owing to +weakness of the crust or flexuring of the strata, or other cause, the +molten matter would be extruded either in the form of dykes or volcanic +vents. In this way we may account for the numerous dykes of trap by +which some volcanic districts are intersected, such as those of the +north of Ireland and centre of Scotland. + +From the above considerations, it follows that the earth's crust must be +in a condition both of pressure (or lateral thrust) towards the exterior +portion, and of tension towards the interior, the former condition +resulting in faulting and flexuring of the rocks, the latter in the +formation of open fissures, through which lava can ascend under high +pressure. These operations are of course the attempt of the natural +forces to arrive at a condition of equilibrium, which is never attained +because the processes are never completed; in other words, radiation and +convection of heat are constantly proceeding, giving rise to new forces +of thrust and tension. + +It now remains for us to consider what may be the condition of the +interior molten magma; and in doing so we must be guided to a large +extent by considerations regarding the nature of the extruded matter at +the surface. + +(_i._) _Relative Densities of Lavas._--Now, observation shows that, as +bearing on the subject under consideration, lavas occur mainly under two +classes as regards their density. The most dense (or basic) are those in +which silica is deficient, but iron is abundant; the least dense (or +acid) are those which are rich in silica, but in which iron occurs in +small quantity. This division corresponds with that proposed by Bunsen +and Durocher[6] for volcanic rocks, upon the results of analyses of a +large number of specimens from various districts. Rocks may be thus +arranged in groups: + + (1) _The Basic_ (Heavier)--poor in silica, rich in iron; containing + silica 45-58 per cent. Examples: Basalt, Dolerite, + Hornblende rock, Diorite, Diabase, Gabbro, + Melaphyre, and Leucite lava. + + (2) _The Acid_ (Lighter)--rich in silica, poor in iron; containing + silica 62-78 per cent. Examples: Trachyte, Rhyolite, + Obsidian, Domite, Felsite, Quartz-porphyry, Granite. + +The Andesite group forms a connecting link between the highly acid and +the basic groups, and there are many varieties of the above which it is +not necessary to enumerate. Durocher supposes that the molten magmas of +these various rocks are arranged in concentric shells within the solid +crust in order of their respective densities, those of the lighter +density, namely the acid magmas, being outside those of greater density, +namely the basic; and this is a view which seems not improbable from a +consideration not only of the principle itself, but of the succession of +the varieties of lava in many districts. Thus we find that acid lavas +have been generally extruded first, and basic afterwards--as in the +cases of Western America, of Antrim, the Rhine and Central France. And +if the interior of our globe had been in a condition of equilibrium from +the time of the consolidation of the crust to the present, reason would +induce us to conclude that the lavas would ultimately have arranged +themselves in accordance with the conditions of density beneath that +crust. But the state of equilibrium has been constantly disturbed. Every +fresh outburst of volcanic force, and every fresh extrusion of lava, +tends to disturb it, and to alter the relations of the interior viscous +or molten magmas. Owing to this it happens, as we may suppose, that the +order of eruption according to density is sometimes broken, and we find +such rocks as granophyre (a variety of andesite) breaking through the +plateau-basalts of Mull and Skye, as explained in a former chapter. +Notwithstanding such variations, however, the view of Durocher may be +considered as the most reasonable we can arrive at on a subject which is +confessedly highly conjectural. + +(_j._) _Conclusion as regards the Ultimate Cause of Volcanic +Action_.--Notwithstanding, however, the complexity of the subject, and +the uncertainties which must attend an inquiry where some of the data +are outside the range of our observation, sufficient evidence can be +adduced to enable us to arrive at a tolerably clear view of the ultimate +cause of volcanic action. So tempting a subject was sure to evoke +numerous essays, some of great ingenuity, such as that of Mr. Mallet; +others of great complexity, such as that of Dr. Daubeny. But more recent +consideration and wider observation have tended to lead us to the +conclusion that the ultimate cause is the most simple, the most +powerful, and the most general which can be suggested; namely, _the +contraction of the crust due to secular cooling of the more deeply +seated parts by conduction and radiation of heat into space_. Owing to +this cause, the enclosed molten matter is more or less abundantly +extruded from time to time along the lines and vents of eruption, so as +to accommodate itself to the ever-contracting crust. Nor can we doubt +that this process has been going on from the very earliest period of the +earth's history, and formerly at a greater rate than at present. When +the crust was more highly heated, the radiation and conduction must have +been proportionately more rapid. Owing to this cause also the +contraction of the crust was accelerated. To such irresistible force we +owe the wonderful flexuring, folding, and horizontal overthrusting which +the rocks have undergone in some portions of the globe--such as in the +Alps, the Highlands of Scotland and of Ireland, and the Alleghannies of +America. It is easy to show that the acceleration of the earth's +rotation must be a consequence of such contraction; but, after all, this +is but one of those compensatory forces of which we see several examples +in the world around us. It can also be confidently inferred that at an +early period of the earth's history, when the moon was nearer to our +planet than at present, the tides were far more powerful, and their +effect in retarding the earth's rotation was consequently greater. +During this period the acceleration due to contraction was also greater; +and the two forces probably very nearly balanced each other. Both these +forces (those of acceleration and retardation) have been growing weaker +down to the present day, though there appears to have been a slight +advantage on the side of the retarding force.[7] + +[1] R. D. M. Verbeek, _Krakatau_, p. 105 (1886); also, J. Milne, _The +Great Earthquake of Japan_, 1891. + +[2] _Bull. Mus. Comp. Zool._, vol. iii. + +[3] _Proc. Roy. Soc._, No. 237 (1885); also, _Rep. Brit. Assoc._ (1881). + +[4] Hopkins, _supra cit._, p. 218. + +[5] C. Davison and G. H. Darwin, _Phil. Trans._, vol. 178, p; 241. + +[6] Durocher, _Ann. des Mines_, vol. ii. (1857). + +[7] See on this subject the author's _Textbook of Physiography_ (Deacon +and Co., 1888), pp. 56 and 122. + + + + +CHAPTER II. + +LUNAR VOLCANOES. + + +The surface of the moon presented to our view affords such remarkable +indications of volcanic phenomena of a special kind, that we are +justified in devoting a chapter to their consideration. It is very +tantalising that our beautiful satellite only permits us to look at and +admire one half of her sphere; but it is not a very far-fetched +inference if we feel satisfied that the other half bears a general +resemblance to that which is presented to the earth. It is scarcely +necessary to inform the reader why it is that we never see but one face; +still, for the sake of those who have not thought out the subject I may +state that it is because the moon rotates on her axis exactly in the +time that she performs a revolution round the earth. If this should not +be sufficiently clear, let the reader perform a very simple experiment +for himself, which will probably bring conviction to his mind that the +explanation here given is correct. Let him place an orange in the centre +of a round table, and then let him move round the table from a +starting-point sideways, ever keeping his face directed towards the +orange; and when he has reached his starting-point, he will find that he +has rotated once round while he has performed one revolution round the +table. In this case the performer represents the moon and the orange +the earth. + +Now this connection between the earth and her satellite is sufficiently +close to be used as an argument (if not as actual demonstration) that +the earth and the moon were originally portions of the same mass, and +that during some very early stage in the development of the solar system +these bodies parted company, to assume for ever after the relations of +planet and satellite. At the epoch referred to, we may also suppose that +these two masses of matter were in a highly incandescent, if not even +gaseous, state; and we conclude, therefore, that having been once +portions of the same mass, they are composed of similar materials. This +conclusion is of great importance in enabling us to reason from analogy +regarding the origin of the physical features on the moon's surface, and +for the purpose of comparison with those which we find on the surface of +our globe; because it is evident that, if the composition of the moon +were essentially different from that of our earth, we should have no +basis whatever for a comparison of their physical features. + +When the moon started on her career of revolution round the earth, we +may well suppose that her orbit was much smaller than at present. She +was influenced by counteracting forces, those of gravitation drawing her +towards the centre of gravity of the earth,[1] and the centrifugal +force, which in the first instance was the stronger, so that her orbit +for a lengthened period gradually increased until the two forces, those +of attraction and repulsion, came into a condition of equilibrium, and +she now performs her revolution round the earth at a mean distance of +240,000 miles, in an orbit which is only very slightly elliptical.[2] +How the period of the moon's rotation is regulated by the earth's +attraction on her molten lava-sheets, first at the surface, and now +probably below the outer crust, has been graphically shown by Sir Robert +Ball,[3] but it cannot be doubted that once the moon was appreciably +nearer to our globe than at present. The attraction of her mass produced +tides in the ocean of correspondingly greater magnitude, and capable of +effecting results, both in eroding the surface and in transporting +masses of rock, far beyond the bounds of our every-day experience. + +Of all the heavenly bodies, the sun excepted, the moon is the most +impressive and beautiful. As we catch her form, rising as a fair +crescent in the western sky after sunset, gradually increasing in size +and brilliancy night after night till from her circular disk she throws +a full flood of light on our world and then passes through her +decreasing phases, we recognise her as "the Governor of the night," or +in the words of our own poet, when in her crescent phase, "the Diadem of +night." Seen through a good binocular glass, her form gains in +rotundity; but under an ordinary telescope with a four-inch objective, +she appears like a globe of molten gold. Yet all this light is +derivative, and is only a small portion of that she receives from the +sun. That her surface is a mass of rigid matter destitute of any +inherent brilliancy, appears plain enough when we view a portion of her +disk through a very large telescope. It was the good fortune of the +author to have an opportunity for such a view through one of the largest +telescopes in the world. The 27-inch refractor manufactured by Sir +Howard Grubb of Dublin, for the Vienna observatory, a few years ago, was +turned on a portion of the moon's disk before being finally sent off to +its destination; and seen by the aid of such enormous magnifying power, +nothing could be more disappointing as regards the appearance of our +satellite. The sheen and lustre of the surface was now observed no +longer; the mountains and valleys, the circular ridges and hollows were, +indeed, wonderfully defined and magnified, but the matter of which they +seemed to be constituted resembled nothing so much as the pale plaster +of a model. One could thus fully realise the fact that the moon's light +is only derivative. Still we must recollect that the most powerful +telescope can only bring the surface of the moon to a distance from us +of about 250 miles; and it need not be said that objects seen at such a +distance on our earth present very deceptive appearances; so that we +gain little information regarding the composition of the moon's crust, +or exterior surface, simply from observation by the aid of large +telescopes. + +Reasoning from analogy with our globe, we may infer that the exterior +shell of the moon consists of crystalline volcanic matter of the highly +silicated, or acid, varieties resting upon another of a denser +description, rich in iron, and resembling basalt. This hypothesis is +hazarded on the supposition that the composition of the matter of the +moon's mass resembles in the main that of our globe. During the process +of cooling from a molten condition, the heavier lavas would tend to fall +inwards, and allow the lighter to come to the surface, and form the +outer shell in both cases. Thus, the outer crust would resemble the +trachytic lavas of our globe, and their pale colour would enable the +sun's rays to be reflected to a greater extent than if the material were +of the blackness of basalt.[4] So much for the material. We have now to +consider the structure of the moon's surface, and here we find ourselves +treading on less speculative and safer ground. All astronomers since the +time of Schroter seem to be of accord in the opinion that the remarkable +features of the moon's surface are in some measure of volcanic origin, +and we shall presently proceed to consider the character of these forms +more in detail. + +But first, and as leading up to the discussion of these physical +features, we must notice one essential difference between the +constitution of the moon and of the earth; namely, the absence of water +and of an atmosphere in the case of the moon. The sudden and complete +occultation of the stars when the moon's disk passes between them and +the place of the observer on the earth's surface, is sufficient evidence +of the absence of air; and, as no cloud has ever been noticed to veil +even for a moment any part of our satellite's face, we are pretty safe +in concluding that there is no water; or at least, if there be any, that +it is inappreciable in quantity.[5] Hence we infer that there is no +animal or vegetable life on the moon's surface; neither are there +oceans, lakes or rivers, snowfields or glaciers, river-valleys or +canyons, islands, stratified rocks, nor volcanoes of the kind most +prevalent on our own globe. + +[Illustration: Fig. 38.--Photograph of the moon's surface (in part) +showing the illuminated "spots," and ridges, and the deep hollows. The +position of "Tycho" is shown near the upper edge, and some of the +volcanic craters are very clearly seen near the margin.] + +Now on looking at a photographic picture of the moon's surface (Fig. +38), we observe that there are enormous dark spaces, irregular in +outline, but more or less approaching the circular form, surrounded by +steep and precipitous declivities, but with sides sloping outwards. +These were supposed at one time to be seas; and they retain the name, +though it is universally admitted that they contain no water. Some of +these hollows are four English miles in depth. The largest of these, +situated near the north pole of the moon, is called _Mare Imbrium_; next +to it is _Mare Serenitatis_; next, _Mare Tranquilitatis_, with several +others.[6] Mare Imbrium is of great depth, and from its floor rise +several conical mountains with circular craters, the largest of which, +_Archimedes_, is fifty miles in diameter; its vast smooth interior being +divided into seven distinct zones running east and west. There is no +central mountain or other obvious internal sign of former volcanic +activity, but its irregular wall rises into abrupt towers, and is marked +outside by decided terraces.[7] + +The Mare Imbrium is bounded along the east by a range of mountains +called the _Apennines_, and towards the north by another range called +the _Alps_; while a third range, that of the _Caucasus_, strikes +northward from the junction of the two former ranges. Several circular +or oval craters are situated on, and near to, the crest of these ridges. + +[Illustration: Fig. 39.--A magnified portion of the moon's surface, +showing the forms of the great craters with their outer ramparts. The +white spot with shadow is a cone rising from the centre of one of the +larger craters to a great height and thus becoming illuminated by the +sun's light.] + +But the greater part of the moon's hemisphere is dotted over by almost +innumerable circular crater-like hollows; sometimes conspicuously +surmounting lofty conical mountains, at other times only sinking below +the general outer surface of the lunar sphere. On approaching the +margin, these circular hollows appear oval in shape owing to their +position on the sphere; and the general aspect of those that are visible +leads to the conclusion that there are large numbers of smaller craters +too small to be seen by the most powerful telescopes. These cones and +craters are the most characteristic objects on the whole of the visible +surface, and when highly magnified present very rugged outlines, +suggestive of slag, or lava, which has consolidated on cooling, as in +the case of most solidified lava-streams on our earth.[8] One of the +most remarkable of these crateriform mountains is that named +_Copernicus_, situated in a line with the southern prolongation of the +Apennines. Of this mountain Sir R. Ball says: "It is particularly well +known through Sir John Herschel's drawing, so beautifully reproduced in +the many editions of the _Outlines of Astronomy_. The region to the west +is dotted over with innumerable minute craterlets. It has a central, +many-peaked mountain about 2,400 feet in height. There is good reason to +believe that the terracing shown in its interior is mainly due to the +repeated alternate rise, partial congealation and retreat of a vast sea +of lava. At full moon it is surrounded by radiating streaks."[9] The +view regarding the structure of Copernicus here expressed is of +importance, as it is probably applicable to all the craters of our +satellite. + +"When the moon is five or six days old," says Sir Robert Ball, "a +beautiful group of three craters will be readily found on the boundary +line between night and day. These are _Catharina_, _Cyrillus_, and +_Theophilus_. Catharina is the most southerly of the group, and is more +than 16,000 feet deep and connected to Cyrillus by a wide valley; but +between Cyrillus and Theophilus there is no such connection. Indeed +Cyrillus looks as if its huge surrounding ramparts, as high as Mont +Blanc, had been completely finished when the volcanic forces commenced +the formation of Theophilus, the rampart of which encroaches +considerably on its older neighbour. Theophilus stands as a well-defined +round crater, about 64 miles in diameter, with an internal depth of +14,000 to 18,000 feet, and a beautiful central group of mountains, +one-third of that height, on its floor. This proves that the last +eruptive efforts in this part of the moon fully equalled in intensity +those that had preceded them. Although Theophilus is on the whole the +deepest crater we can see in the moon, it has received little or no +deformation by secondary eruptions." + +But perhaps the most remarkable object on the whole hemisphere of the +moon is "the majestic Tycho," which rises from the surface near the +south pole, and at a distance of about 1/6th of the diameter of the +sphere from its margin. Its depth is stated by Ball to be 17,000 feet, +and its diameter 50 miles. But its special distinction amongst the other +volcanic craters lies in the streaks of light which radiate from it in +all directions for hundreds and even thousands of miles, stretching with +superb indifference across vast plains, into the deepest craters, and +over the highest opposing ridges. When the sun rises on Tycho these +streaks are invisible, but as soon as it has reached a height of 25 deg. to +30 deg. above the horizon, the rays emerge from their obscurity, and +gradually increase in brightness until full moon, when they become the +most conspicuous objects on her surface. As yet no satisfactory +explanation has been given of the origin of these illuminated rays,[10] +but I may be permitted to add that their form and mode of occurrence are +eminently suggestive of gaseous exhalations from the volcano illumined +by the sun's rays; and owing to the absence of an atmosphere, spreading +themselves out in all directions and becoming more and more attenuated +until they cease to be visible. + +The above account will probably suffice to give the reader a general +idea of the features and inferential structure of the moon's surface. +That she was once a molten mass is inferred from her globular form; but, +according to G. F. Chambers, the most delicate measurements indicate no +compression at the poles.[11] That her surface has cooled and become +rigid is also a necessary inference; though Sir J. Herschel considered +that the surface still retains a temperature _possibly_ exceeding that +of boiling water.[12] However this may be, it is pretty certain that +whatever changes may occur upon her surface are not due to present +volcanic action, all evidence of such action being admittedly absent. +If, when the earth and moon parted company, their respective +temperatures were equal, the moon being so much the smaller of the two +would have cooled more rapidly, and the surface may have been covered by +a rigid crust when as yet that of the earth may have been molten from +heat. Hence the rigidity of the moon's surface may date back to an +immensely distant period, but she may still retain a high temperature +within this crust. Having arrived at this stage of our narrative, we are +in a position to consider by what means, and under what conditions, the +cones and craters which diversify the lunar surface have been developed. + +In doing so it may be desirable, in the first place, to determine what +form of crater on our earth's surface those of the moon do not +represent; and we are guided in our inquiry by the consideration of the +absence of water on the lunar surface. Now there are large numbers of +crateriform mountains on our globe in the formation of which water has +played an important, indeed essential, part. As we have already seen, +water, though not the ultimate cause of volcanic eruptions, has been the +chief agent, when in the form of steam at high pressure, in producing +the explosions which accompany these eruptions, and in tearing up and +hurling into the air the masses of rock, scoriae, and ashes, which are +piled around the vents of eruption in the form of craters during periods +of activity. To this class of craters those of Etna, Vesuvius, and +Auvergne belong. These mountains and conical hills (the domes excepted) +are all built up of accumulations of fragmental material, with +occasional sheets and dykes of lava intervening; and where eruptions +have taken place in recent times, observation has shown that they are +accompanied by outbursts of vast quantities of aqueous vapour, which has +been the chief agent (along with various gases) in piling up the +circular walls of the crater. + +It has also been shown that in many instances these crater-walls have +been breached on one side, and that streams of molten lava which once +occupied the cup to a greater or less height, have poured down the +mountain side. Hence the form or outline of many of these fragmental +craters is crescent-shaped. Such breached craters are to be found in all +parts of the world, and are not confined to any one district, or even +continent, so that they may be considered as characteristic of the class +of volcanic crater-cones to which I am now referring. In the case of the +moon, however, we fail to observe any decided instances of breached +craters, with lava-streams, such as those I have described.[13] In +nearly all cases the ramparts appear to extend continuously round the +enclosed depression, solid and unbroken; or at least with no large gap +occupying a very considerable section of the circumference. (See Fig. +38.) Hence we are led to suspect that there is some essential +distinction between the craters on the surface of the moon and the +greater number of those on the surface of our earth. + +It is scarcely necessary to add that the volcanic mountains of the moon +offer no resemblance whatever to the dome-shaped volcanic mountains of +our globe. If it were otherwise, the lunar mountains would appear as +simple luminous points rising from a dark floor, over which they would +cast a conical shadow. But the form of the lunar volcanic mountains is +essentially different; as already observed, they consist in general of a +circular rampart enclosing a depressed floor, sometimes terraced as in +the case of Copernicus, from which rise one or more conical mountains, +which are in effect the later vents of eruption. + +In our search, therefore, for analogous forms on our own earth, we must +leave out the craters and domes of the type furnished by the European +volcanoes and their representatives abroad, and have recourse to others +of a different type. Is there then, we may ask, any type of volcanic +mountain on our globe comparable with those on the moon? In all +probability there is. + +If the reader will turn to the description of the volcanoes of the +Hawaiian group in the Pacific, especially that of Mauna Loa, as given by +Professor Dana and others, and compare it with that of Copernicus, he +will find that in both cases we have a circular rampart of solid lava +enclosing a vast plain of the same material from which rise one or more +lava-cones. The interiors in both cases are terraced. So that, allowing +for differences in magnitude, it would seem that there is no essential +distinction between lunar craters and terrestrial craters of the type of +Mauna Loa. Dana calls these Hawaiian volcanoes "basaltic," basalt being +the prevalent material of which they are formed. Those of the moon may +be composed of similar material, or otherwise; but in either case we may +suppose they are built up of lava, erupted from vents connected with the +molten reservoirs of the interior. Thus we conclude that they belong to +an entirely different type, and have been built up in a different +manner, from those represented by Etna, Vesuvius, and most of the +extinct volcanoes of Auvergne, the Eifel, and of other districts +considered in these pages. + +Let us now endeavour to picture to ourselves the stages through which +the moon may be supposed to have passed from the time her surface began +to consolidate owing to the radiation of her heat into space; for there +is every probability that some of the craters now visible on her disk +were formed at a very early period of her physical history. + +When the surface began to consolidate, it must also have contracted; and +the interior molten matter, pressed out by the contracting crust, must +have been over and over again extruded through fissures produced over +the solidified surface, until the solid crust extended over the whole +lunar surface, and became of considerable thickness. + +It is from this epoch that, in all probability, we should date the +commencement of what may be termed "the volcanic history" of the moon. +We must bear in mind that although the moon's surface had become solid, +its temperature may have remained high for a very long period. But the +continuous radiation of the surface-heat into space would produce +continuous contraction, while the convection of the interior heat would +tend to increase the thickness of the outer solid shell; and this, ever +pressing with increasing force on the interior molten mass, would result +in frequent ruptures of the shell, and the extrusion of molten lava +rising from below. Hence we may suppose the fissure-eruptions of lava +were of frequent occurrence for a lengthened period during the early +stage of consolidation of the lunar crust; but afterwards these may be +supposed to have given place to eruptions through pipes or vents, +resulting in the formation of the circular craters which form such +striking and characteristic objects in the physical aspect of our +satellite.[14] + +It is not to be supposed that the various physical features on the lunar +surface have all originated in the same way. The great ranges of +mountains previously described may have originated by a process of +piling up of immense masses of molten lava extruded from the interior +through vents or fissures; while the great hollows (or "seas") are +probably due to the falling inwards of large spaces owing to the escape +of the interior lava. + +But it is with the circular craters that we are most concerned. Judging +from analogy with the lava-craters present on our globe, we must suppose +them to be due to the extrusion, and piling up, of lava through central +pipes, followed in some cases by the subsidence of the floor of the +crater. It seems not improbable that it was in this way the greater +number of the circular craters lying around Tycho, and dotting so large +a space round the margin of the moon, were constructed. (See Fig. 38.) +In general they appear to consist of an elevated rim, enclosing a +depressed plain, out of which a central cone arises. The rim may be +supposed to have been piled up by successive discharges of lava from a +central orifice; and after the subsidence of the paroxysm the lava still +in a molten condition may have sunk down, forming a seething lake within +the vast circular rampart, as in the case of the Hawaiian volcanoes. The +terraces observable within the craters in some instances have probably +been left by subsequent eruptions which have not attained to the level +of preceding ones; and where a central crater-cone is seen to rise +within the caldron, we may suppose this to have been built up by a later +series of eruptions of lava through the original pipe after the +consolidation of the interior sea of lava. The mamelons of the Isle of +Bourbon,[15] and some of the lava-cones of Hawaii, appear to offer +examples on our earth's surface of these peculiar forms. + +Such are the views of the origin of the physical features of our +satellite which their form and inferred constitution appear to suggest. +They are not offered with any intention of dogmatising on a subject +which is admittedly obscure, and regarding which we have by no means all +the necessary data for coming to a clear conclusion. All that can be +affirmed is, that there is a great deal to be said in support of them, +and that they are to some extent in harmony with phenomena within range +of observation on the surface of our earth. + +The far greater effects of lunar vulcanicity, as compared with those of +our globe, may be accounted for to some extent by the consideration that +the force of gravity on the surface of the moon is only one-sixth of +that on the surface of the earth. Hence the eruptive forces of the +interior of our satellite have had less resistance to overcome than in +the case of our planet; and the erupted materials have been shot forth +to greater distances, and piled up in greater magnitude, than with us. +We have also to recollect that the abrading action of water has been +absent from the moon; so that, while accumulations of matter had been +proceeding throughout a prolonged period over its surface, there was no +counteracting agency of denudation at work to modify or lessen the +effects of the ruptive forces. + +[1] Correctly speaking, each attracts the other towards its centre of +gravity with a force proportionate to its mass, and inversely as the +square of the distance; but the earth being by much the larger body, its +attraction is far greater than that of the moon. + +[2] The variation in the distance is only under rare circumstances +40,000 miles, but ordinarily about 13,000 miles. + +[3] _Story of the Heavens_, 2nd edition, p. 525, _et seq._ + +[4] A series of researches made by Zoellner, of Leipzig, led him to +assign to the light-reflecting capacity of the full-moon a result +intermediate between that obtained by Bouguer, which gave a brightness +equal to 1/300000 part of that of the sun, and of Wollaston, which gave +1/801070 part. We may accept 1/618000 of Zoellner as sufficiently close; +so that it would require 600,000 full moons to give the same amount of +light as that of the sun. + +[5] Schroter, however, came to the conclusion that the moon has an +atmosphere. + +[6] A chart of the moon's surface, with the names of the principal +physical features, will be found in Ball's _Story of the Heavens_, 2nd +edit., p. 60. It must be remembered that the moon as seen through a +telescope appears in reversed position. + +[7] _Ibid._, p. 66. + +[8] As represented by Nasmyth's models in plaster. + +[9] Ball, _loc. cit._, p. 67. + +[10] Ball, _loc. cit._, p. 69. + +[11] _Astronomy_, p. 78. + +[12] _Outlines of Astronomy_, p. 285. + +[13] At rare intervals a few crescent-shaped ridges are discernible on +the lunar sphere, but it is very doubtful if they are to be regarded as +breached craters. + +[14] The number of "spots" on the moon was considered to be 244 until +Schroter increased it to 6,000, and accurately described many of them. +Schroter seems to have been the earliest observer who identified the +circular hollows on the moon's surface as volcanic craters. + +[15] Drawings of these very curious forms are given by Judd, +_Volcanoes_, p. 127. + + + + +CHAPTER III. + +ARE WE LIVING IN AN EPOCH OF SPECIAL VOLCANIC ACTIVITY? + + +The question which we are about to discuss in the concluding chapter of +this volume is one to which we ought to be able to offer a definite +answer. This can only be arrived at by a comparison of the violence and +extent of volcanic and seismic phenomena within the period of history +with those of pre-historic periods. + +At first sight we might be disposed to give to the question an +affirmative reply when we remember the eruptions of the last few years, +and add to these the volcanic outbursts and earthquake shocks which +history records. The cases of the earthquake and eruption in Japan of +November, 1891, where in one province alone two thousand people lost +their lives and many thousand houses were levelled[1]; that of Krakatoa, +in 1883; of Vesuvius, in 1872; and many others of recent date which +might be named, added to those which history records;--the recollection +of such cases might lead us to conclude that our epoch is one in which +the subterranean volcanic forces had broken out with extraordinary +energy over the earth's surface. Still, when we come to examine into +the cases of recorded eruptions--especially those of great violence--we +find that they are limited to very special districts; and even if we +extend our retrospect into the later centuries of our era, we shall find +that the exceptionally great eruptions have been confined to certain +permanently volcanic regions, such as the chain of the Andes, that of +the Aleutian, Kurile, Japanese, and Philippine and Sunda Islands, lying +for the most part along the remarkable volcanic girdle of the world to +which I have referred in a previous page. Add to these the cases of +Iceland and the volcanic islands of the Pacific, and we have almost the +whole of the very active volcanoes of the world. + +Then for the purposes of our inquiry we have to ascertain how these +active vents of eruption compare, as regards the magnitude of their +operations, with those of the pre-historic and later Tertiary times. But +before entering into this question it maybe observed, in the first +place, that a large number of the vents of eruption, even along the +chain of the earth's volcanic girdle, are dormant or extinct. This +observation applies to many of the great cones and domes of the Andes, +including Chimborazo and other colossal mountains in Ecuador, Columbia, +Chili, Peru, and Mexico. The region between the eastern Rocky Mountains +and the western coast of North America was, as we have seen, one over +which volcanic eruptions took place on a vast scale in later Tertiary +times; but one in which only the after-effects of volcanic action are at +present in operation. We have also seen that the chain of volcanoes of +Japan and of the Kurile Islands are only active to a slight extent as +compared with former times, and the same observation applies to those +of New Zealand. Out of 130 volcanoes in the Japanese islands, only 48 +are now believed to be active. + +Again, if we turn to other districts we have been considering, we find +that in the Indian Peninsula, in Arabia, in Syria and the Holy Land, in +Persia, in Abyssinia and Asia Minor--regions where volcanic operations +were exhibited on a grand scale throughout the Tertiary period, and in +some cases almost down into recent times--we are met by similar +evidences either of decaying volcanic energy, or of an energy which, as +far as surface phenomena are concerned, is a thing of the past. Lastly, +turning our attention to the European area, notwithstanding the still +active condition of Etna, Vesuvius, and a few adjoining islands, we see +in all directions throughout Southern Italy evidences of volcanic +operations of a past time,--such as extinct crater-cones, lakes +occupying the craters of former volcanoes, and extensive deposits of +tuff or streams of lava--all concurring in giving evidence of a period +now past, when vulcanicity was widespread over regions where its +presence is now never felt except when some earthquake shock, like that +of the Riviera, brings home to our minds the fact that the motive force +is still beneath our feet, though under restrained conditions as +compared with a former period. + +Similar conclusions are applicable with even greater force to other +parts of the European area. The region of the Lower Rhine and Moselle, +of Hungary and the Carpathians, of Central France, of the North of +Ireland and the Inner Hebrides, all afford evidence of volcanic +operations at a former period on an extensive scale; and the contrast +between the present physically silent and peaceful condition of these +regions, as regards any outward manifestations of sub-terrestrial +forces, compared with those which were formerly prevalent, cannot fail +to impress our minds irresistibly with the idea that volcanic energy has +well-nigh exhausted itself over these tracts of the earth's surface. + +From this general survey of the present condition of the earth's +surface, as regards the volcanic operations going on over it, and a +comparison with those of a preceding period, we are driven to the +conclusion that, however violent and often disastrous are the volcanic +and seismic phenomena of the present day, they are restricted to +comparatively narrow limits; and that even within these limits the +volcanic forces are less powerful than they were in pre-historic times. + +The middle part of the Tertiary period appears, in fact, to have been +one of extraordinary volcanic activity, whether we regard the wide area +over which this activity manifested itself, or the results as shown by +the great amount of the erupted materials. Many of the still active +volcanic chains, or groups, probably had their first beginnings at the +period referred to; but in the majority of cases the eruptive forces +have become dormant or extinct. With the exception of the lavas of the +Indian-Peninsular area, which appear, at least partially, to belong to +the close of the Cretaceous epoch, the specially volcanic period may be +considered to extend from the beginning of the Miocene down to the close +of the Pliocene stage. During the Eocene stage, volcanic energy appears +to have been to a great degree dormant; but plutonic energy was +gathering strength for the great effort of the Miocene epoch, when the +volcanic forces broke out with extraordinary violence over Europe, the +British Isles, and other regions, and continued to develop throughout +the succeeding Pliocene epoch, until the whole globe was surrounded by a +girdle of fire. + + * * * * * + +The reply, therefore, to the question with which we set out is very +plain; and is to the effect that the present epoch is one of +comparatively low volcanic activity. The further question suggests +itself, whether the volcanic phenomena of the middle Tertiary period +bear any comparison with those of past geological times. This, though a +question of great interest, is one which is far too large to be +discussed here; and it is doubtful if we have materials available upon +which to base a conclusion. But it may be stated with some confidence, +in general terms, that the history of the earth appears to show that, +throughout all geological time, our world has been the theatre of +intermittent geological activity, periods of rest succeeding those of +action; and if we are to draw a conclusion regarding the present and +future, it would be that, owing to the lower rate of secular cooling of +the crust, volcanic action ought to become less powerful as the world +grows older. + +[1] Admirably illustrated in Prof. J. Milne's recently published work, +_The Great Earthquake of Japan, 1891_. + + + + +APPENDIX. + +A BRIEF ACCOUNT OF THE PRINCIPAL VARIETIES OF VOLCANIC ROCKS. + + +The text-books on this subject are so numerous and accessible, that a +very brief account of the volcanic rocks is all that need be given here +for the purposes of reference by readers not familiar with petrological +details. + +Let it be observed, in the first place, that there is no hard and fast +line between the varieties of igneous and volcanic rocks. In this as in +other parts of creation--_natura nil facit per saltum_; there are +gradations from one variety to the other. At the same time a systematic +arrangement is not only desirable, but necessary; and the most important +basis of arrangement is that founded on the proportion of _silica_ (or +quartz) in the various rocks, as first demonstrated by Durocher and +Bunsen, who showed that silica plays the same part in the inorganic +kingdom that carbon does in the organic. Upon this hypothesis, which is +a very useful one to work with, these authors separated all igneous and +volcanic rocks into two classes, viz., the Basic and the Acid; the +former containing from 45-58 per cent., the latter 62-78 per cent. of +that mineral. But there are a few intermediate varieties which serve to +bridge over the space between the Basic and Acid Groups. The following +is a generalised arrangement of the most important rocks under the above +heads:-- + +_Tabular View of Chief Igneous and Volcanic Rocks._ + +BASIC GROUP. + +1. Basalt and Dolerite. +2. Gabbro. +3. Diorite. +4. Diabase and Melaphyre. +5. Porphyrite. + +INTERMEDIATE GROUP. + +6. Syenite. +7. Mica-trap, or Lampophyre. +8. Andesite. + +ACID GROUP. + +9. Trachyte, Domite, and Phonolite. +10. Rhyolite and Obsidian. +11. Granophyre. +12. Granite. + +In the above grouping, and in the following definitions, I have not been +able to follow any special authority. But the most serviceable +text-books are those of Mr. Frank Rutley, _Study of Rocks_, and Dr. +Hatch, _Petrology_; also H. Rosenbusch, _Mikroskopische Physiographie +der Mineralien_, and F. Zirkel's _Untersuchungen ueber mikroskopische +Structur der Basaltgesteine_. We shall consider these in the order above +indicated:-- + +1. BASALT.--The most extensively distributed of all volcanic rocks. It +is a dense, dark rock of high specific gravity (2.4-2.8), consisting of +plagioclase felspar (Labradorite or anorthite), augite, and +titano-ferrite (titaniferous magnetite). Olivine is often present; and +when abundant the rock is called "olivine-basalt." In the older rocks, +basalt has often undergone decomposition into melaphyre; and amongst the +metamorphic rocks it has been changed into diorite or hornblende rock; +the augite having been converted into hornblende. + +When leucite or nepheline replaces plagioclase, the rock becomes a +leucite-basalt,[1] or nepheline-basalt. Some basalts have a glass paste, +or "ground-mass," in which the minerals are enclosed. + +The lava of Vesuvius may be regarded as a variety of basalt in which +leucite replaces plagioclase, although this latter mineral is also +present. Zirkel calls it "Sanidin-leucitgestein," as both the +macroscopic and microscopic structure reveal the presence of leucite, +sanidine, plagioclase, nephiline, augite, mica, olivine, apatite, and +magnetite.[2] + +_Dolerite_ does not differ essentially from basalt in composition or +structure, but is a largely crystalline-granular variety, occurring more +abundantly than basalt amongst the more ancient rocks, and the different +minerals are distinctly visible to the naked eye. + +A remarkable variety of this rock occurs at Slieve Gullion in Ireland, +in which mica is so abundant as to constitute the rock a "micaceous +dolerite." + +2. GABBRO.--A rather wide group of volcanic rocks with variable +composition. Essentially it is a crystalline-granular compound of +plagioclase, generally Labradorite and diallage. Sometimes the pyroxenic +mineral becomes hypersthene, giving rise to _hypersthene-gabbro_; or +when hornblende is present, to _hornblende-gabbro_; when olivine, to +_olivine-gabbro_. Magnetite is always present. + +These rocks occur in the Carlingford district in Ireland, in the Lizard +district of Cornwall, the Inner Hebrides (Mull, Skye, etc.) of Scotland, +and in Saxony. + +3. DIORITE.--A crystalline-granular compound of plagioclase and +hornblende with magnetite. When quartz is present it becomes (according +to the usual British acceptation) a _syenite_; but this view is +gradually giving place to the German definition of syenite, which is a +compound of orthoclase and hornblende; and it may be better to +denominate the variety as _quartz-diorite_. The diorites are abundant as +sheets and dykes amongst the older palaeozoic and metamorphic rocks, and +are sometimes exceedingly rich in magnetite. Mica, epidote, and chlorite +are also present as accessories. + +The rock occurs in North Wales, Charnwood Forest, Wicklow, Galway, and +Donegal, and the Highlands of Scotland. There can be little doubt that +amongst the metamorphic rocks of Galway, Mayo, and Donegal the great +beds of (often columnar) diorite were originally augitic lavas, which +have since undergone transformation. + +4. DIABASE.--It is very doubtful if "Diabase" ought to be regarded as a +distinct species of igneous rock, as it seems to be simply an altered +variety of basalt or dolerite, in which chlorite, a secondary +alteration-product, has been developed by the decomposition of the +pyroxene or olivine of the original rock. It is a convenient name for +use in the field when doubt occurs as to the real nature of an igneous +rock. Melaphyre is a name given to the very dark varieties of altered +augitic lavas, rich in magnetite and chlorite. + +5. PORPHYRITE (or quartzless porphyry).--A basic variety of +felstone-porphyry, consisting of a felspathic base with distinct +crystals of felspar, with which there may be others of hornblende, mica, +or augite. The colour is generally red or purple, and it weathers into +red clay, in contrast to the highly acid or silicated felsites which +weather into whitish sand. + +6. SYENITE.--As stated above, this name has been variously applied. Its +derivation is from Syene (Assouan) in Egypt, and the granitic rocks of +that district were called "syenites," under the supposition (now known +to be erroneous) that they differ from ordinary granites in that they +were supposed to be composed of quartz, felspar, and hornblende, instead +of quartz, felspar, and mica. From this it arose that syenite was +regarded as a variety of granite in which the mica is replaced by +hornblende, and this has generally been the British view of the +question. But the German definition is applied to an entirely different +rock, belonging to the felstone family; and according to this +classification syenite consists of a crystalline-granular compound of +orthoclase and hornblende, in which quartz may or may not be present. +From this it will be seen that, according to Zirkel, syenite is +essentially distinct from diorite in the species of its felspar.[3] It +seems desirable to adopt the German view; and as regards diorites +containing quartz as an accessory, to apply to them the name of +_quartz-diorite_, as stated above, the name syenite as used by British +geologists having arisen from a misconception. + +7. MICA-TRAP (LAMPOPHYRE).--A rock, allied to the felstone family, in +which mica is an abundant and essential constituent, thus consisting of +plagioclase and mica, with a little magnetite. Quartz may be an +accessory. This rock occurs amongst the Lower Silurian strata of +Ireland, Cumberland, and the South of Scotland; it is not volcanic in +the ordinary acceptation of that term. The term _lampophyre_ was +introduced by Guembel in describing the mica-traps of Fichtelgebirge. + +8. ANDESITE.--This is a dark-coloured, compact or vesicular, +semi-vitreous group of volcanic rocks, composed essentially of a glassy +plagioclase felspar, and a ferro-magnesian constituent enclosed in a +glassy base. According to the nature of the ferro-magnesian constituent, +the group may be divided into _hornblende-andesite_, _biotite-andesite_, +and _augite-andesite_. Quartz is sometimes present, and when this +mineral becomes an essential it gives rise to a variety called +_quartz-andesite_ or _dacite_. + +These rocks are the principal constituents of the lavas of the Andes, +and the name was first applied to them by Leopold von Buch; but their +representatives also occur in the British Isles, Germany, and elsewhere. +Dacite is the lava of Krakatoa and some of the volcanoes of Japan. + +9, 10. TRACHYTE and DOMITE, etc.--These names include very numerous +varieties of highly silicated volcanic rock, and in their general form +consist of a white felsitic paste with distinct crystals of sanidine, +together with plagioclase, augite, biotite, hornblende, and accessories. +When crystalline grains or blebs of quartz occur, we have a +quartz-trachyte; when tridymite is abundant, as in the trachyte of Co. +Antrim, we have "tridymite-trachyte." + +The trachytes occupy a position between the pitchstone lavas on the one +hand, and the andesites and granophyres on the other. + +(_b._) _Domite_ is the name applied to the trachytic rocks of the +Auvergne district and the Puy de Dome particularly. They do not contain +free quartz, though they are highly acid rocks, containing sometimes as +much as 68 per cent. of silica. + +(_c._) _Phonolite (Clinkstone)_ is a trachytic rock, composed +essentially of sanidine, nepheline, and augite or hornblende. It is +usually of a greenish colour, hard and compact, so as to ring under the +hammer; hence the name. The Wolf Rock is composed of phonolite, and it +occurs largely in Auvergne. + +(_d._) _Rhyolites_ are closely connected with the _quartz-trachytes_, +but present a marked fluidal, spherulitic, or perlitic structure. They +consist of a trachytic ground-mass in which grains or crystals of +quartz and sanidine, with other accessory minerals, are imbedded. They +occur amongst the volcanic rocks of the British Isles, Hungary, and the +Lipari Islands, from which the name _Liparite_ has been derived. + +(_e._) _Obsidian (Pitchstone)._--This is a vitreous, highly acid rock, +which has become a volcanic glass in consequence of rapid cooling, +distinct minerals not having had time to form. It has a conchoidal +fracture, various shades of colour from grey to black; and under the +microscope is seen to contain crystallites or microliths, often +beautifully arranged in stellate or feathery groups. Spherulitic +structure is not infrequent; and occasionally a few crystals of +sanidine, augite, or hornblende are to be seen imbedded in the glassy +ground-mass. The rock occurs in dykes and veins in the Western Isles of +Scotland, in Antrim, and on the borders of the Mourne Mountains, near +Newry, in Ireland. + +11. GRANOPHYRE.--This term, according to Geikie, embraces the greater +portion of the acid volcanic rocks of the Inner Hebrides. They are +closely allied to the quartz-porphyries, and vary in texture from a fine +felsitic or crystalline-granular quartz-porphyry, in the ground-mass of +which porphyritic turbid felspar and quartz may generally be detected, +to a granitoid rock of medium grain, in which the component dull felspar +and clear quartz can be readily distinguished by the naked eye. +Throughout all the varieties of texture there is a strong tendency to +the development of minute irregularly-shaped cavities, inside of which +quartz or felspar has crystallised out--a feature characteristic of the +granites of Arran and of the Mourne Mountains. + +12. GRANITE.--A true granite consists of a crystalline-granular rock +consisting of quartz, felspar (orthoclase), and mica; the quartz is the +paste or ground-mass in which the felspar and mica crystals are +enclosed. This is the essential distinction between a granite and a +quartz-porphyry or a granophyre. Owing to the presence of highly-heated +steam under pressure in the body of the mass when in a molten condition, +the quartz has been the last of the minerals to crystallise out, and +hence does not itself occur with the crystalline form. + +True granite is not a volcanic rock, and its representatives amongst +volcanic ejecta are to be found in the granophyres, quartz-porphyries, +felsites, trachytes, and rhyolites so abundant in most volcanic +countries, and to one or other of these the so-called granites of the +Mourne Mountains, of Arran Island, and of Skye are to be referred. +Granite is a rock which has been intruded in a molten condition +amongst the deep-seated parts of the crust, and has consolidated +under great pressure in presence of aqueous vapour and with extreme +slowness, resulting in the formation of a rock which is largely +crystalline-granular. Its presence at the surface is due to denudation +of the masses by which it was originally overspread. + +[Illustration: Plate I.] + +EXPLANATION OF PLATE I. + +MAGNIFIED SECTIONS OF VESUVIAN MINERALS. + + Fig. 1. Section of leucite crystal from the lava of 1868, with + fluid cavities. Mag., 350 diams. + + " 2, 3, 4, and 5. Sections of nepheline crystals from the lava of + 1767, 1834, and 1854. + + " 6. Section of sodalite crystal from the lava of 1794, with + belonites and crystals of magnetite enclosed. + + " 7, 8, 9. Crystals of leucite with microliths and cavities + darkened by magnetite dust; also, containing crystals of + magnetite. + + " 10. Group of leucite crystals of irregular form from the lava of + 1855, congregated around a nucleus of crystals of plagioclase + and magnetite. + +[Illustration: Plate II.] + +EXPLANATION OF PLATE II. + +MAGNIFIED SECTIONS OF VESUVIAN MINERALS. + + Fig. 1. Section of augite crystal from the lava of 1794, with + numerous gas cells and delicately banded walls. The interior + contains two long prisms, probably of apatite. + + " 2. Crystal of augite with banded walls, and indented by leucite + crystals, from the lava of 1794. Mag., 40 diams. + + " 3, 4, 5. Sections of augite crystals from the lavas of 1794 and + 1820. + + " 6. Group of augite crystals from the lava of 1835. + + " 7. Ditto from the lava of 1822, with encluded mica-flake (_a_) + and portion of the glass paste, or ground-mass, of the rock + (_b_), containing microliths and grains of magnetite. + + Fig. 8. Two crystals of olivine from the lava of 1855; they are + intersected on one side by the plane of the thin section, and + are remarkable for showing lines of gas cells, and bands of + growth sometimes cellular. Mag., 40 diams. + + " 9. Section of rock-crystal (quartz), with double terminal + pyramids, from the lava of 1850. + + " 10. Twin crystal of sanidine from the lava of 1858. Mag., 40 + diams. + + " 11, 12, 13. Sections of plagioclase crystals (probably + labradorite) from the lava of 1855. Mag., 100 diams. + + " 14. Section of olivine crystal from the lava of 1631--imperfectly + formed. Mag., 30 diams. + + " 15. Section of mica-flake from the lava of 1822. Mag., 30 diams. + +[Illustration: Plate III.] + +EXPLANATION OF PLATE III. + +MAGNIFIED SECTIONS OF VOLCANIC ROCKS. + + 1. Diorite dyke, traversing Assynt limestone, North Highlands. + + 2. Basalt from upper beds, near Giant's Causeway, County Antrim. + + 3. Hornblende-hypersthene-augite Andesite, from Pichupichu, Andes. + + 4. Augite-Andesite from Pichupichu, Andes. + + 5. Olivine dolerite, with hornblende and biotite, Madagascar. + + 6. Leucite basalt, with mellilite, Capo di Bove, Italy. + +[Illustration: Plate IV.] + +EXPLANATION OF PLATE IV. + +MAGNIFIED SECTIONS OF VOLCANIC ROCKS. + + 1. Vesuvian lava, glass paste with numerous crystals of leucite; + others of augite and nepheline porphyritically developed; also + small grains of magnetite. + + 2. Vesuvian lava, glass paste with numerous crystals of leucite; + others of olivine, hornblende, and sanidine, porphyritically + developed; small grains of magnetite. + + 3. Trachyte from Hungary; felsitic paste with crystals of + hornblende and sanidine, and a little magnetite. + + 4. Gabbro, from Carlingford Hill, Ireland, consisting of anorthite, + augite, a little olivine, and magnetite. + + 5. Dolerite, from old volcanic neck, Scalot Hill, near Lame, + consisting of labradorite, augite, olivine, and magnetite. + + 6. Dolerite, Ballintoy, County Antrim, showing ophetic structure, + consisting of augite, labradorite, and magnetite. + +[1] Mr. S. Allport has discovered this in the rock called the "Wolf +Rock" off the coast of Cornwall. The most important work on basalt is +that by F. Zirkel, _Unters. ueber mikros. Zusammensetzung und Structur +der Basaltgesteine_. Bonn (1870). + +[2] Zirkel, _Die mikroskopische Beschaffenheit der Mineralien und +Gesteine_, p. 153. Leipsig (1873). + +[3] Zirkel, _Petrog._, i. 578; B. von Cotta, p. 178 (Eng. Trans.). + + + + +INDEX. + + + + +INDEX. + + +Abyssinian table-lands, 190 _et seq._ + +Albano, Lake, 89 + +America, volcanic regions of North, 136 _et seq._; + of Western, 144 + +Andes, 18, 27, 227, 254 + +Andesite, 263 + +Antrim, 154 _et seq._ + +Arabia, dormant volcanoes of, 126-135 + +Arabian desert, 134 + +Archibald, C. D., 213 + +Arizona, volcanoes of, 137 + +Argyll, Duke of, 173 + +Ascension, 36 + +Ashangi, volcanic series of, 192 + +Atmospheric effects of Krakatoa eruption, 213-214 + +Auckland district, volcanoes of, 147 + +Auvergne, volcanic regions of, 14, 16, 92 _et seq._ + +Azores, 32 + + +Ball, Sir R. S., 242, 244 + +Basalt, 260 + +Blanford, W. T., 188, 189 + +Bonneville, Lake, 141-142 + +British Isles, + Tertiary volcanic districts of, 154 _et seq._, 227; + pre-Tertiary volcanic districts of, 196 _et seq._ + +Buch, L. von, 6, 11, 24 + + +California, volcanoes of, 140 + +Callirrhoe, springs of, 133 + +Canyon, the Grand, 138 + +Cantal, volcanoes of the, 99-101 + +Cape Colony, Basalts of, 194 + +Charleston earthquake, 218, 222, 224 + +Chambers, G. F., 246 + +Charnwood Forest, 198 + +Chimborazo, 18 + +Clermont, vale of, 96-97 + +Clinkstone, 263 + +Cordilleras of Quito, 25 + +Cotopaxi, 16-18, 24, 26 + +Crater-cones, Lava, 19 + +Crateriform cones, 13 + +Craterless domes, 15 + + +Dana, Prof. J. D., 19, 39, 249 + +Darwin, 28, 30 + +Darwin, Prof. G. H., 9, 231 + +Daubeny, 7, 61, 69 + +Davison, C., 9, 231 + +Davy, Sir H., 11 + +Deccan trap-series, 187 _et seq._ + +Demavend, Mount, 24 + +Diabase, 262 + +Diorite, 261 + +Dolerite, 261 + +Domite, 263 + +Dore, volcanoes of Mont, 100-101 + +Doughty, C. M., 127 + +Durocher, 232 + +Dutton, Capt. C. E., 9, 220, 222 + +Dykes in Ireland, 169-170 + + +Earthquakes, 217 _et seq._ + +Errigal, 10 + +Etna, 14, 61 _et seq._, 229 + + +Fingal's Cave, 185 + +Forbes, D., 27 + +France, extinct volcanoes of, 92 _et seq._ + + +Gabbro, 261 + +Gardner, J. S., 156 + +Geikie, Sir A., 8, 29, 143, 156, 160, 169, 172, 176, 177, 196 + +Giant's Causeway, 165-166 + +Granite, 264 + +Granophyre, 264; of Mull, 174 + +Green, Prof. A. H., 194 + + +Hatch, Dr., 260 + +Haughton, Prof., 68 + +Hauran, volcanoes of the, 22, 129 + +Haute Loire, volcanic districts of, 101-105 + +Hawaii, volcanoes of, 39, 249, 251 + +Hecla, 32 + +Herschel, Sir J., 244 + +Hibbert, Dr. S., 6, 114, 124 + +Hochstetter, F. von, 147 + +Hopkins, 171, 217 + +Hull, Dr. E. G., 110 + +Humboldt, A. von, 20, 25 + +Hutton, James, 5 + + +Iceland, volcanoes of, 30-32 + +Ireland, volcanic Tertiary rocks of, 154 _et seq._ + + +Jaulan, 129 + +Johnston-Lavis, 52 + +Jordan valley, 126 _et seq._, 226 + +Jorullo, 24 + +Judd, Prof., 8, 68, 69, 71, 172, 178, 208 + + +Krakatoa, eruption of, 206 _et seq._ + +Kurile Islands, volcanoes of, 28 + + +Laacher See, 121-123 + +Lampophyre, 262 + +Lancerote, 34 + +Lasaulx, Prof. von, 68 + +Lavas, relative density of, 232-234 + +Lima in 1746, earthquake of, 222 + +Lipari Islands, volcanoes of, 69 _et seq._ + +Lisbon, earthquake of, 221 + +Lister, J. J., 38 + +Lunar volcanoes, 236 _et seq._ + +Lyell, Sir C., 30, 62, 78, 217 + + +Mackowen, Col., 74 + +Magdala, volcanic series of, 192-193 + +Mallet, R., 9, 217 + +Mauna Loa, 19, 39, 249 + +Mica-trap, 262 + +Milne, Prof., 28, 218, 253 + +Moab, volcanic regions of, 132 + +Moon, volcanoes of, 236 _et seq._ + +Monte Nuovo, 85 + +Mull, 172 _et seq._ + + +Neapolitan group of volcanoes, 28 + +New Zealand, volcanoes of, 146 + + +Obsidian, 264 + +Ocean waves of seismic origin, 208, 220 + +O'Reilly, Prof., 9, 219 + +Orizaba, 21 + +Ovid, 3 + + +Pacific, volcanic islands of, 37 + +Palestine, dormant volcanoes of, 126-135 + +Palmieri, Prof., 55 + +Pantelleria, 74 + +Phlegraean fields, 85 + +Phonolite, 263 + +Pitchstone, 264 + +Pliny, 2, 4 + +Porphyrite, 262 + +Powell, Major, 138 + +Pre-Tertiary volcanic rocks, 187 _et seq._; + of British Isles, 196 _et seq._ + +Puy de Dome, 105-110 + +Pythagoreans on volcanoes, 2-3 + + +Quito, Cordilleras of, 25 + + +Rangitoto, 19, 149 + +Reyer, Dr. E., 17 + +Rhine valley, volcanoes of, 113 _et seq._ + +Rhyolite, 263 + +Riviera in 1887, earthquake of, 219 + +Rocca Monfina, 80 + +Roderberg, 119, 120 + +Rome, 88-89 + +Rosenbusch, H., 260 + +Roto Mahana, 151 + +Ruapahu, 151 + +Russell, Hon. Rollo, 213 + +Rutley, F., 260 + + +St. Helena, 37 + +San Francisco, Mount, 138 + +Santorin, 76-83 + +Schehallion, 10 + +Schumacher, 127 + +Scotland, volcanic districts of, 172 _et seq._ + +Scrope, Poulett, 5, 73, 93, 98 + +Scuir of Eigg, 180-184 + +Seismic phenomena, special, 201 _et seq._, 217 _et seq._ + +Shasta, Mount, 140 + +Siebengebirge, 116-120 + +Skye, 177-179 + +Sleamish, 168 + +Smyth, Piazzi, 33 + +Snake River, volcanoes of, 142 + +Staffa, 185-186 + +Strabo on volcanoes, 3 + +Stromboli, 71-73 + +Sumatra, volcanic action in, 226 + +Syenite, 262 + +Symes, R. G., 167 + +Syria, earthquakes in, 219 + + +Taupo Lake, 150 + +Taylor, Mount, 138 + +Tell el Ahmar, 131 + +Tell el Akkasheh, 131 + +Tell el Farras, 131 + +Tell Abu en Neda, 130 + +Tell Abu Nedir, 129 + +Templepatrick, quarry at, 160 + +Teneriffe, 33 + +Tertiary period, volcanic activity of, 255 + +Thucydides, 2 + +Tonga Islands, volcanoes of, 38 + +Tongariro, 151 + +Trachyte, 263 + +Trass of Bruehl Valley, 123-125 + +Tristan da Cunha, 37 + +Tristram, Canon, 127, 131 + + +Utah, volcanoes of, 137 + + +Verbeek, R. D. M., 202 + +Vesuvius, 4, 14, 41-60, 67, 229 + +Volcanoes, + historic notices of, 1-5; + form, structure, and composition of, 10-19; + lines and groups of active, 20-29; + of mid-ocean, 30-40; + extinct or dormant, 84 _et seq._; + special volcanic and seismic phenomena, 201 _et seq._; + the ultimate cause of volcanic action, 225 _et seq._; + whether we are living in an epoch of special volcanic activity, 253-256; + brief account of volcanic rocks, 259-265 + +Vulcanists, 5 + +Vulcano, 69, 71 + + +Wallace, A. R., 81 + +Waltershausen, W. S. von, 7, 61 + +Wellington, Mount, 149 + +Wharton, Capt., 212 + +Whymper, E., 18 + + +Yarmuk, valley of the, 129, 131 + +Yellowstone Park, 145 + + +Zirkel, F., 260 + +Zoellner, 240 + + +THE WALTER SCOTT PRESS, NEWCASTLE-ON-TYNE. + + + + +The Contemporary Science Series. + +EDITED BY HAVELOCK ELLIS. + + * * * * * + +Crown 8vo, Cloth, 3s. 6d. per vol.; Half Morocco, 6s. 6d. + +I. THE EVOLUTION OF SEX. By Professor PATRICK GEDDES and J. ARTHUR + THOMSON. With 90 Illustrations. Second Edition. + +"The authors have brought to the task--as indeed their names +guarantee--a wealth of knowledge, a lucid and attractive method of +treatment, and a rich vein of picturesque language."--_Nature._ + +II. ELECTRICITY IN MODERN LIFE. By G. W. DE TUNZELMANN. With 88 + Illustrations. + +"A clearly-written and connected sketch of what is known about +electricity and magnetism, the more prominent modern applications, and +the principles on which they are based."--_Saturday Review._ + +III. THE ORIGIN OF THE ARYANS. By Dr. ISAAC TAYLOR. Illustrated. Second + Edition. + +"Canon Taylor is probably the most encyclopaedic all-round scholar now +living. His new volume on the Origin of the Aryans is a first-rate +example of the excellent account to which he can turn his exceptionally +wide and varied information.... Masterly and exhaustive."--_Pall Mall +Gazette._ + +IV. PHYSIOGNOMY AND EXPRESSION. By P. MANTEGAZZA. Illustrated. + +"Professor Mantegazza is a writer full of life and spirit, and the +natural attractiveness of his subject is not destroyed by his scientific +handling of it."--_Literary World_ (Boston). + +V. EVOLUTION AND DISEASE. By J. B. SUTTON, F.R.C.S. With 135 + Illustrations. + +"The work is of special value to professional men, yet educated persons +generally will find much in it which it is both interesting and +important to know."--_The Scottish Weekly._ + +VI. THE VILLAGE COMMUNITY. By G. L. GOMME. Illustrated. + +"His book will probably remain for some time the best work of reference +for facts bearing on those traces of the village community which have +not been effaced by conquest, encroachment, and the heavy hand of Roman +law."--_Scottish Leader._ + +VII. THE CRIMINAL. By HAVELOCK ELLIS. Illustrated. + +"An ably written, an instructive, and a most entertaining book."--_Law +Quarterly Review._ + + * * * * * + +London: WALTER SCOTT, LIMITED, 24 Warwick Lane. + +The Contemporary Science Series--continued. + +VIII. SANITY AND INSANITY. By Dr. CHARLES MERCIER. Illustrated. + +"Taken as a whole, it is the brightest book on the physical side of +mental science published in our time."--_Pall Mall Gazette._ + +IX. HYPNOTISM. By Dr. ALBERT MOLL. Second Edition. + +"Marks a step of some importance in the study of some difficult +physiological and psychological problems which have not yet received +much attention in the scientific world of England."--_Nature._ + +X. MANUAL TRAINING. By Dr. C. M. WOODWARD, Director of the Manual + Training School, St. Louis. Illustrated. + +"There is no greater authority on the subject than Professor +Woodward."--_Manchester Guardian._ + +XI. THE SCIENCE OF FAIRY TALES. By E. SIDNEY HARTLAND. + +"Mr. Hartland's book will win the sympathy of all earnest students, both +by the knowledge it displays, and by a thorough love and appreciation of +his subject, which is evident throughout."--_Spectator._ + +XII. PRIMITIVE FOLK. By ELIE RECLUS. + +"For an introduction to the study of the questions of property, +marriage, government, religion,--in a word, to the evolution of +society,--this little volume will be found most convenient."--_Scottish +Leader._ + +XIII. THE EVOLUTION OF MARRIAGE. By Professor LETOURNEAU. + +"Among the distinguished French students of sociology, Professor +Letourneau has long stood in the first rank. He approaches the great +study of man free from bias and shy of generalisations. To collect, +scrutinise, and appraise facts is his chief business."--_Science._ + +XIV. BACTERIA AND THEIR PRODUCTS. By Dr. G. SIMS WOODHEAD. Illustrated. + +"An excellent summary of the present state of knowledge of the +subject."--_Lancet._ + +XV. EDUCATION AND HEREDITY. By J. M. GUYAU. + +"It is a sign of the value of this book that the natural impulse on +arriving at its last page is to turn again to the first, and try to +gather up and coordinate some of the many admirable truths it +presents."--_Anti-Jacobin._ + +XVI. THE MAN OF GENIUS. By Professor LOMBROSO. Illustrated. + +"By far the most comprehensive and fascinating collection of facts and +generalisations concerning genius which has yet been brought +together."--_Journal of Mental Science._ + +XVII. THE GRAMMAR OF SCIENCE. By Professor KARL PEARSON. Illustrated. + +XVIII. PROPERTY: ITS ORIGIN AND DEVELOPMENT. By CH. LETOURNEAU, General + Secretary to the Anthropological Society, Paris, and Professor in + the School of Anthropology, Paris. + +An ethnological account of the beginnings of property among animals, of +its communistic stages among primitive races, and of its later +individualistic developments, together with a brief sketch of its +probable evolution in the future. + + * * * * * + +London: WALTER SCOTT, LIMITED, 24 Warwick Lane. + + + + + + * * * * * + + + + +Transcriber's note: + + +Changed 'Kilarrea' to 'Kilauea' on page 19: Mauna Loa and Kilarrea. + +Changed 'Kilanea' to 'Kilauea' on page 39: Kilanea, 4158 feet. + +Made punctuation (semi-colons) consistent in caption to figure 16. + +Changed 'Brionde' to 'Brioude' on page 94: till at Brionde it becomes. + +Changed 'occuping' to 'occupying' on page 96: occuping a hollow. + +Changed 'Rodesberg' to 'Roderberg' on page 118: old extinct volcano of +Rodesberg. + +Changed 'Wolkenberg' to 'Wolkenburg' on page 118: and that of the +Wolkenberg. + +Left the reference to Jeremiah, l. 25. in footnote to Part III Chapter +I, although Jeremiah, li. 25. seems more appropriate. + +Changed 'fumarols' to 'fumaroles' on page 137: fumarols give evidence. + +Removed extra comma on page 153: of the present, epoch. + +Changed 'columnal' to 'columnar' on page 176: the columnal structure. + +Changed 'groves' to 'grooves' on page 183: the groves and scorings. + +Changed 'Angust' to 'August' on page 212: the 27th of Angust. + +Changed 'mikroskopischen' to 'mikroskopische' on page 260: ueber +mikroskopischen Structur. + +Changed 'become' to 'becomes' on page 260: the rock become a +leucite-basalt. + +Left inconsistent spellings of 'Baalbec' and 'Baalbeck'; 'Harrat' and +'Harrat'; 'metres' and 'metres'; 'pitchstone' and 'pitch-stone'; +'prehistoric' and 'pre-historic'; 'Rhone' and 'Rhone'; 'sub-aerial', +'subaerial' and 'subaerial'; 'tableland' and 'table-land'. + +Greek words were replaced with their transliterations: 'meson pyr' and +'Peri kosmou'. + +The oe-ligature was expanded to the two separate characters: 'Euboea' +and 'Boeotia'. + +Left the list numbering as is at the beginning of Chapter II of Part IV, +even though the list begins at item c, as if it continues the list which +began in the previous chapter. + + + +***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK VOLCANOES: PAST AND PRESENT*** + + +******* This file should be named 31627.txt or 31627.zip ******* + + +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: +http://www.gutenberg.org/dirs/3/1/6/2/31627 + + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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