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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of A Trip to the Orient, by Robert Urie Jacob
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: A Trip to the Orient
+       The Story of a Mediterranean Cruise
+
+Author: Robert Urie Jacob
+
+Release Date: March 12, 2010 [EBook #31609]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A TRIP TO THE ORIENT ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Juliet Sutherland, Peter Vickers and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: WE ENTERED THROUGH THE GATE OF JUSTICE.]
+
+
+
+
+A TRIP TO THE ORIENT
+
+
+The Story of a
+Mediterranean
+Cruise
+
+
+BY
+ROBERT URIE JACOB
+
+
+[Illustration]
+
+ILLUSTRATED
+
+
+THE JOHN C. WINSTON CO.
+PHILADELPHIA
+
+
+
+
+
+Copyright 1907, by
+ROBERT URIE JACOB.
+
+
+Half-tones made by
+The Photo-Chromotype Engraving Co.
+Philadelphia, Pa.
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE.
+
+
+"A Trip to the Orient, the Story of a Mediterranean Cruise," by Robert
+Urie Jacob, has been written at the request of fellow-travelers who did
+not have time to take notes by the way.
+
+One said, "Do not write a guide book nor a love story, but a simple
+narrative that will recall the incidents and delightful experiences of
+the tour." Following these suggestions, but with many misgivings, the
+author has undertaken and completed the work, assisted in the editing
+and proof-reading by Miss Ruth Collins, of the Drexel Institute, and by
+Miss Anna C. Kauffman.
+
+An interesting feature of the book is the large number of illustrations
+made from artistic photographs, all of which have been kindly
+contributed by amateur photographers. It contains nearly two hundred
+illustrations of views or incidents in Funchal, Granada, Algiers, Malta,
+Athens, Constantinople, Jerusalem, Cairo, Luxor, Naples, and Nice,
+reproduced from photographs taken by Mr. L. O. Smith, Rev. G. B.
+Burnwood, Mr. Charles Louis Sicarde, Mr. Franklin D. Edmunds, Mr.
+Roberts LeBoutellier, Mrs. Charles S. Crosman, Miss M. Florence
+Pannebaker, Mr. Walter F. Price, Mr. S. L. Schumo, Mr. George C.
+Darling, Mr. Howard E. Pepper, Mr. John W. Converse, Mr. C. Edwin Webb,
+and Mr. Edwin Alban Bailey.
+
+The story was intended specially for voyagers who have visited the same
+places, but it may be almost equally interesting to those who are
+planning a similar trip. And those who must stay at home may in these
+pages be able to look through another's eyes at the places described.
+
+If the book should in any slight way deepen the pleasant memories of
+those who have made the trip, or if it should give pleasure to those who
+must picture those scenes only in their imagination, the author will
+feel that his effort has not been in vain.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+
+  CHAPTER.                                  PAGE.
+
+     I. ON THE OCEAN                            1
+
+    II. FUNCHAL                                10
+
+   III. GIBRALTAR                              24
+
+    IV. GRANADA AND THE ALHAMBRA               38
+
+     V. THE CITY OF ALGIERS                    60
+
+    VI. THE ISLAND OF MALTA                    82
+
+   VII. ATHENS AND THE ACROPOLIS               97
+
+  VIII. CONSTANTINOPLE AND SANTA SOPHIA       128
+
+    IX. THE SELAMLIK AND THE TREASURY         154
+
+     X. FROM THE BOSPORUS TO PALESTINE        179
+
+    XI. JERUSALEM                             199
+
+   XII. THE CHURCH OF THE HOLY SEPULCHRE      227
+
+  XIII. CAIRO AND THE PYRAMIDS                257
+
+   XIV. LUXOR AND KARNAK                      296
+
+    XV. ON THE NILE                           327
+
+   XVI. NAPLES AND POMPEII                    353
+
+  XVII. NICE AND MENTONE                      378
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+ON THE OCEAN.
+
+
+"Have you decided to go?" inquired my friend. Before us on the table lay
+an illustrated booklet containing the prospectus of a cruise to the
+Mediterranean. Its contents had been under consideration for some days.
+
+"Yes," I answered, "I will write to-day to secure state room
+accommodations for our party. Nevertheless I am not quite sure that it
+is wise to take the trip."
+
+"Why?"
+
+"For two reasons. First, are seventy days long enough to make a cruise
+of nearly fourteen thousand miles and visit so many places? Second, with
+five hundred passengers will there not be a crowd?"
+
+"Well, those doubts never troubled me. Seventy days is all that can be
+spared from my business, and much may be seen in that time. As to the
+number of passengers, every steamer carries its full complement. At any
+rate, you are going, so think no more of your doubts. You will probably
+forget that you had any."
+
+So it was that at seven o'clock on the morning of the fifth of February,
+when the steamship Moltke left her dock at New York, we stood among the
+passengers lined along her rail. The hawsers had been cast off, whistles
+were blowing, and tugs were puffing in their efforts to push and pull
+the huge vessel into the stream.
+
+At that early hour of a wintry day there was no crowd filling the pier,
+no sea of faces looking upward, no waving of handkerchiefs and flags,
+the usual sight when a great liner departs. The wharf, cheerless and
+dismal, appeared to be almost deserted. Its only occupants were a few
+scattered onlookers shivering in the cold, and the officials and
+employees whose duties required their presence. But on the Moltke, in
+spite of the chill air and the gray morning, all were animated and
+eager. The band played the "Belle of New York" while the ship was being
+warped into the stream, and the "American Patrol" while it was steaming
+down the river. The tourists, alert and expectant, viewed the panorama
+of the city as the tall buildings were brought into strong relief
+against the brightening sky, saw Liberty's cap reflect the rays of the
+rising sun, then watched the incoming steamers, and the forts and
+lighthouses that seemed to approach and pass. Just outside of Sandy Hook
+our pilot with a satchel of letters descended the rope ladder to the
+waiting tug, and soon afterwards the low-lying shores became dimmer and
+dimmer until they disappeared from view.
+
+The farewells had been exchanged on the previous day, when the promenade
+decks and saloons of the steamer were thronged with passengers, friends,
+and curious visitors, and the after-deck was encumbered with piles of
+baggage. Then, the tables in the main saloon were filled with boxes of
+flowers, baskets of fruit, packages of confectionery, and bundles of
+steamer letters marked to be opened on certain days after sailing.
+
+Before the departure we had met the deck steward and with his
+assistance had located our steamer chairs; for in the places then
+selected the chairs were to remain throughout the long cruise. We had
+also interviewed the chief steward, had obtained from him a passenger
+list, and had arranged that our party should be seated together at one
+of the side tables in the dining saloon.
+
+[Illustration: AT THE HOUR OF AFTERNOON TEA.]
+
+The passenger list contained four hundred and fifty-three names. Among
+these were thirteen preceded by the title Reverend, thirteen by Doctor,
+and a number by military or other titles of honor. Every state in the
+Union and several provinces of Canada had representatives on the list.
+
+During the first three days' sailing a storm, which had been predicted
+as approaching from the west when we left New York, followed but did not
+overtake us. We could not, however, remain on deck as long as desired,
+for the wind was chilly and the ocean rough. But each morning, laden
+with heavy wraps and rugs, we sought our steamer chairs. Then, settled
+comfortably under the wraps and rugs carefully tucked around us by the
+attentive steward, we defied the cold for an hour or two and inhaled the
+invigorating air.
+
+As the vessel made her way southward, the temperature moderated and the
+sea became smooth. By the time the stormy weather had passed, the
+tourists, accustomed to ship motion and ship life, spent most of their
+time upon the decks. Then, to increase sociability and make the time
+pass pleasantly, self-appointed committees met and laid plans for card
+parties, lectures, concerts, and dances.
+
+On the fifth night out the southern side of the promenade deck was
+curtained with awnings, cleared of chairs, decorated with flags and
+Chinese lanterns, and brilliantly illuminated with clusters of electric
+lights, for an impromptu dance. Music was furnished by the band, and
+Father Neptune kindly kept his waves in subjection, although an
+occasional roll caused some unsteadiness in the movements of the
+waltzers.
+
+By that time we knew many of our fellow-voyagers. For, as we had similar
+plans, a common destination, and the same pleasures in anticipation, we
+readily made friendships. We chatted around the table during the
+luncheon and dinner hours, took a hand in euchre with men in the smoking
+room, or a place at whist with the ladies in the music room, and
+exchanged pleasantries and experiences with our neighbors while
+occupying the steamer chairs. Friendships grew rapidly under these
+favorable conditions. Sometimes chats with new acquaintances which began
+in a mirthful way changed to talks of a serious kind as some spoken word
+recalled home and friends left behind, and conversations when prolonged
+became almost confidential in their character.
+
+One afternoon while we were sipping the tea which had been served, a
+lady who occupied a chair next ours, said:--"I enjoy so much my hours in
+the gymnasium. Each morning I take a gallop on the electric horse and
+get my blood into circulation. The first day I felt rather timid in the
+saddle when the custodian asked, 'Fast or slow?' so I said, 'Start
+slow,' but I quickly had him increase the speed, for I'm used to
+horseback riding."
+
+"We're from Texas, you know," spoke up a young woman sitting close by.
+
+"You should practice riding on the electric camel in preparation for our
+trip into Egypt," I suggested.
+
+"We have; we've tried all the arm and foot movements and have been
+thumped on the back, and on the chest, and even on our heads," responded
+the young woman. "But I wished for a rowing machine. Rowing is my
+favorite exercise."
+
+"Before we left home we all had many misgivings about this trip,"
+remarked the elder sister. "We knew how large these steamships really
+are, but yet we had visions of many possible discomforts during so long
+a journey. We disliked tours in sleeping cars and couldn't realize the
+difference between traveling in cars and in ships. But our stateroom
+here is very cozy with the wardrobes and the racks for our books and our
+pictures."
+
+"And it seems homelike, too," added the other.
+
+The life on shipboard was to many a novel experience. In the mornings we
+were roused from our slumbers by the notes of a bugle. The first day
+when the reveille sounded I looked at my watch. It was a quarter to
+eight. "Must I get up?" I thought. Then remembering that the breakfast
+hour was from eight to ten, I closed my eyes. But soon there came a
+gentle tapping at the door. "Who's there?" I asked. "Your bath is ready,
+sir." The words were English but the accents were plainly German. That
+call was more imperative than the bugler's, for I might miss my
+invigorating salt water dip if I did not quickly respond. After a
+breakfast of fruit, cereals, chops, and coffee we went to the deck for a
+tramp. "Ten rounds of the promenade deck make a mile," said my
+room-mate consulting his pedometer. Then we strolled to the library for
+books, but the books lay unread in our laps when we were seated in our
+steamer chairs; for how could our minds be fixed on the story when the
+real life before us was more interesting? The Professor who was to
+lecture during the trip stepped by with rapid tread, nodding as he
+passed. The minister from Iowa who was to preach on the Sabbath stopped
+to exchange greetings, a friend dropped into a vacant chair for a talk.
+Then the music stands were set up and the band assembled around them and
+for an hour we listened to selections from Wagner and Bach, varied with
+the martial strains of Sousa or the melodies of Foster. The stewards
+brought out a table, filled it with dishes, and served bouillon and
+biscuit, while near by a kodak carrier was snapping a picture.
+
+[Illustration: I. COMFORTABLY SEATED WITH A BOOK.]
+
+[Illustration: II. THE BAND WAS PLAYING CARMEN.]
+
+On the ship there were many places of interest. When in need of exercise
+we visited the gymnasium on the upper deck, and when desirous of a
+change in cooking we resorted to the grill room where the white clad
+cook broiled chops in our sight over a bright fire. Impelled by
+curiosity, we explored the vacant steerage, and with the chief engineer
+descended the iron ladder to the depths below to investigate the
+mysteries of the engine and fire rooms. Sometimes from the breezy
+fore-deck we scanned the horizon for the ships that rarely appeared, and
+sometimes sought a snug corner aft and watched the swift-winged gulls,
+the quivering log line, the smoke clouds and their shadows, or the
+widening streak of water disturbed by the revolving screw.
+
+"How rapidly the week has passed," said a friend on the evening of the
+twelfth of February. "Listen! One, two, three, four," as the ship's bell
+rang out four strokes. "Four bells, that's six o'clock. We have half an
+hour to dress for dinner."
+
+When we entered the brilliantly illuminated dining saloon that evening a
+bust of Lincoln was on the platform, and the room was decorated with the
+American colors. Some one had remembered Lincoln's birthday, though many
+of the passengers had forgotten the date. A picture of Lincoln with the
+inscription, "In commemoration of President Abraham Lincoln's birthday,"
+was engraved on the covers of the souvenir menus. The dinner was an
+unusually good one, and the seven selections rendered by the orchestra
+during the courses were appropriate for the day.
+
+After dinner a man who had been personally acquainted with the martyred
+President delivered an interesting memorial address. His final words had
+just been said when an announcement was made which caused a thrill of
+expectancy and sent us hurriedly to the deck: "Land is in sight!"
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+FUNCHAL.
+
+
+"That is the island of Madeira," said the captain, pointing to a dark
+mass dimly seen against the horizon. "We are now nearly twenty-eight
+hundred miles southeast of New York."
+
+We had been sailing for seven days with only a vast expanse of ocean in
+view, and so we longed for a sight of land and eagerly looked forward to
+the arrival at our first port. As we approached the island the form of a
+mountain became clear in the star-light; then the twinkling of lights at
+its base revealed the location of a city. When within half a mile of the
+shore, the water in the harbor became too shallow for large vessels, so
+the screw propeller of the Moltke ceased revolving and the ship came to
+anchor.
+
+"May we go ashore to-night?" many asked.
+
+"Certainly, there is no objection," replied the captain.
+
+A number of the passengers, eager to see the attractions of the place,
+and too impatient to wait until morning, were rowed across the dark
+water to the pier. In the city, Funchal, we found that at so late an
+hour the main attractions were gambling places, dance halls, and
+lotteries, the owners of which were greedy for American money. The main
+Casino, in the midst of a beautiful garden, was brilliantly illuminated
+and its halls were filled with well dressed people. Some of the party
+who had placed their silver on the tables of chance showed on their
+return to the steamer handfuls of coins that fortune had brought them;
+others who had made similar experiments were silent as to the results.
+
+[Illustration: SUNLIGHT SHONE ON THE WHITE WALLS OF FUNCHAL.]
+
+"We should have read up the Madeiras before leaving home," said one of
+the tourists at our early breakfast the morning after our arrival, "but
+we were too busy then with other things. While you were ashore last
+night I found in the library an old English book of travel that gave
+some information about the islands."
+
+[Illustration: IT IS NOT RAPID TRANSIT.]
+
+"Share it with us while the stewards are bringing the coffee, won't
+you?"
+
+[Illustration: ONLY THE BOYS STOPPED THEIR PLAY TO GAZE.]
+
+"I made very few notes," she replied. "As we are to be in Funchal but
+one day, I skipped the statistics of population, hotels, exports, and
+history. But here are some facts just as I jotted them down:
+
+"'The Madeira Islands, about six hundred miles west of Gibraltar, were
+settled by the Portuguese and are owned by Portugal.
+
+"'The principal and only town large enough to be called a city is
+Funchal, situated on the southern side of Madeira on the slope of a
+hill.
+
+"'The city has an equable climate. Mild sunshine, gentle ocean breezes,
+and protection from harsh winds by mountains, give to Funchal throughout
+the whole year the temperature of England in the month of May.
+
+"'The island is very mountainous, gashed with many deep gorges which
+extend in from the sea. The streets in the city are paved, but the roads
+in the country are impassable for wagons. Merchandise is carried on pack
+mules or in ox-drags. Horses are rarely seen and carriages are few.
+Quaint vehicles are used in their stead for the conveyance of
+passengers.'
+
+"How odd these vehicles are we shall find out when we land. We shall
+have a busy day. I am eager to start."
+
+It was yet early when we ascended the deck, but the sun was shining
+brightly. Funchal appeared like a beautiful picture. Overhead was the
+azure sky of a summer day; before us, stirred by a gentle breeze,
+glistened in blue and silver the waters of the harbor; on the curving
+shore, tier above tier, reflecting the sunshine, rose the white and
+yellow stone buildings of the city surmounted by roofs of red tiling;
+above the city, white cottages amidst a dense foliage of green shrubbery
+dotted the steep hillsides, and beyond, but seeming very near, higher
+mountains formed a dark and appropriate background.
+
+[Illustration: THE WOMEN WERE WASHING CLOTHES.]
+
+"The steam tenders are ready to carry you to the shore," announced one
+of the officials, interrupting our survey of the picture.
+
+We descended the long ladder of fifty steps from the deck of the steamer
+to the bobbing barge in the water below, and were soon landed on the
+stone steps of the breakwater, which, extending out to a picturesque
+crag, protects and partially encloses the harbor. There, in place of
+cabs, a hundred low sleds with canopy tops and cushioned seats were in
+readiness to convey us on a sight-seeing excursion through the city.
+This ride in ox-drags was a novel experience. Each sled was dragged by
+two bullocks, driven without reins by loud-voiced natives who, with
+frequent yells and prodding sticks, urged on their teams. The drivers
+carried bunches of greasy rags which they occasionally threw underneath
+the sled-runners as a lubricant to diminish the friction of their
+movement over the stone-paved streets.
+
+[Illustration: IN THE SLED READY TO START.]
+
+The sights in the city were strange. The shops on the narrow streets
+were plain and unattractive, and the signs unintelligible. The windows
+of the lower floors of the dwellings were grated with iron bars like a
+prison. Beneath a bridge over a walled ravine that kept a rushing stream
+within bounds in the rainy season, women washed clothes and spread them
+on rocks to dry. In the public square the women carrying water from the
+fountain or chatting on the sidewalks appeared to have little curiosity
+regarding the visitors in their city, and the men, lounging on the steps
+of the fountain, cast but careless glances in our direction; only the
+boys stopped their play to gaze awhile at the passing strangers.
+
+"This plodding team seems fitting in such a peculiar place," remarked
+one of the quartet in our sled. "Although it is not rapid transit, it is
+comfortable. But look, there is a more luxurious mode of traveling." As
+he spoke he pointed to two Portuguese bearing suspended on a pole a
+handsome hammock in which a lady reclined languidly.
+
+At the foot of the mountain we changed from the slowly moving sleds to
+the car of a cog-wheel railway, which carried us up the steep incline.
+The speed of the car was not much greater than that of the ox-team. As
+we ascended, scenes of beauty opened around us. Cottages built on
+terraces were covered with blooming bouguain-villea or climbing roses.
+Patches of cultivated land were filled with sugar cane, banana plants,
+and orange trees. Palms and cacti appeared in many varieties. Flowers
+bloomed on every side. Geraniums, fuschias, and heliotropes were of
+enormous size. Camelias, lilies, and nasturtiums grew in profusion.
+Children from the suburban cottages ran alongside the moving car,
+merrily casting roses, heliotropes, geraniums, and camelias through the
+open windows into our laps, and the tourists, pleased with the floral
+offerings, in return tossed pennies to the running children.
+
+When we alighted from the car, young peddlers, some bright-faced and
+clean, others ugly and dirty, offered flowers and trinkets for sale and
+beggars asked for money. But our pennies were exhausted and we were glad
+that peddlers and paupers were not permitted to follow us into the hotel
+grounds.
+
+[Illustration: ON THE PIER WE BOUGHT FLOWERS.]
+
+"Here you may lunch," said the guide, as we entered a hotel on the
+mountain, "and get pure Madeira wine. The wine which is made in this
+island was at one time its most noted production; but some thirty years
+ago insects and disease so infested the vines that many vineyards were
+destroyed and the quantity of wine now made is not so large as in former
+years."
+
+After having luncheon and tasting the well known wine in its purity on a
+broad piazza overlooking a beautiful tropical garden, we wandered
+through an interesting old church and convent near by, and then strolled
+around a mountain pathway from which, as the guide said, "views most
+grand" might be seen. As we advanced on our way we looked down from the
+height upon many continually changing scenes of picturesque beauty. Now
+there appeared a vista through a wooded ravine of striking grandeur, now
+a view of a rocky gorge penetrating from the ocean, and again a wide
+panorama of city, harbor, and ocean.
+
+[Illustration: THE SLIDE IS TWO MILES IN LENGTH.]
+
+Our return to the city was in a conveyance indeed unique. The descent of
+the mountain in sleds from the summit to the city below, through narrow
+lanes paved with small stones worn and slippery from years of service,
+was an experience long to be remembered. Our sled, without any means of
+propulsion but our own weight, glided rapidly down the hill over the
+smooth surface of the pavement like a toboggan on an icy slide. It was
+controlled by two men, who, sometimes running alongside, sometimes
+clinging to the runners, regulated the speed and guided the sled around
+corners by means of ropes attached to its sides.
+
+"That was a wild and exciting ride," exclaimed one of the ladies who had
+been tightly holding to her seat during the descent. "What is the
+distance from the summit?"
+
+"The slide is about two miles in length, lady," replied one of the
+conductors.
+
+"Don't take our picture now with our hair flying wildly," exclaimed an
+occupant of a sled just arriving, to a friend with a camera.
+
+"Your request comes too late," he answered. "I have pressed the button."
+
+"I hope it will not be a good one," she wished, but it was.
+
+When we returned to the Moltke many row-boats were clustered around the
+vessel. Some of these had brought visitors who desired to inspect the
+ship. Some contained Portuguese merchants, who, with cargoes of
+embroidery, wicker chairs, straw goods, fruits, photographs, and curios,
+had been patiently awaiting our return. When they were permitted to come
+on board they displayed their wares upon the deck and made many sales.
+Other small craft contained half-naked boys who shouted to us to test
+their skill as divers by throwing pennies into the clear but deep
+emerald water, claiming that they could secure the money before it
+reached the bottom of the bay. We complied with the boys' request and
+exhausted the ship's supply of pennies in putting their dexterity to the
+proof. When the money was thrown into the sea the young experts, diving
+like beavers and successful in securing the money, rose to the surface
+and clambered into the boats holding the coins in their mouths. One
+youth more daring than the others mounted to the upper deck of our
+steamer and offered, if a shilling instead of a penny was thrown into
+the water, to plunge from his high perch to the sea fifty feet below and
+get the silver. And he won much applause by successfully accomplishing
+the feat.
+
+[Illustration: THE TUG CARRIED US TO THE MOLTKE.]
+
+Toward evening the whistle of the steamer sounded warning notes. The
+time for sailing was at hand. The tourists who had been loitering on the
+shore hastened to return. The peddlers on the deck reluctantly packed
+their unsold wares and with their bundles descended the ship's ladder.
+The visitors, after courteously bidding adieu to the officials who had
+been entertaining them, took their departure. But the trained swimmers
+whose antics in the water were giving so much amusement tarried until
+ordered away. Then while our band played a farewell air, Sousa's "Hands
+Across the Sea," the Moltke slowly steamed out of the harbor.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+GIBRALTAR.
+
+
+"Is not this a German vessel?" asked a passenger of the first officer,
+as they stood conversing near the gymnasium on the upper deck the
+morning after we left Funchal.
+
+"Most surely it is," he replied, astonished at the question.
+
+"Then," pointing to the red ensign floating at the top of the foremast,
+"why does the Moltke fly the British colors?"
+
+"The British flag at our foremast indicates that this ship is bound for
+a port that belongs to Great Britain," explained the mate. "When we sail
+from Gibraltar the Union Jack will be replaced by the French tri-color
+to show that we are then on the way to a French port. The emblem on the
+fore-mast will be changed many times before we return to New York. But
+there," turning and pointing to the rear, "in its place at the stern is
+the German standard, the flag of our fatherland. There it will remain
+throughout the cruise. Above us, too, on the mast nearest the stern, the
+white pennant bearing the letters H. A. P. A. G., the insignia of the
+company that owns the Moltke, will constantly fly."
+
+The evening we sailed from Funchal each lady found beside her plate at
+the dinner table a bunch of violets, a memento from the flower gardens
+of Madeira; and on St. Valentine's Day each found there a package
+containing a pretty fan with the compliments of the Captain. At this
+dinner on the fourteenth of February much merriment prevailed during the
+dessert course, when favors containing caps and bonnets were
+distributed. Formality was dropped for the time. Each diner donned his
+headgear and the comical appearance of the wearers drew forth many
+pleasantries and much laughter.
+
+[Illustration: THE ILLUSTRATIONS REPRESENT A SOMBER MOUNTAIN.]
+
+The Captain, with a huge paper sun-bonnet on his head, rose to make a
+few remarks.
+
+"Silence! listen to what our old mother has to say!" cried a humorist.
+
+Amid laughter the captain began, but the laughter quickly ceased and his
+words were listened to with attention.
+
+"Fellow voyagers," said he in conclusion, "you will find on the bulletin
+board to-night some information and advice relative to your trip to
+Granada. For the past ten days you have been under my charge and I have
+looked after your welfare, but to-morrow you leave the vessel for two
+days. I wish you a pleasant excursion and a safe return to shelter under
+the care of your 'Old Mother.'"
+
+After the applause had subsided and a response had been made by one of
+the passengers, the orchestra played as a finale Liebe's "Auf
+Wiedersehen."
+
+Then we, after securing pencil and paper, hastened to join the crowd
+around the bulletin board to make notes of the directions for the trip
+into Spain. The notice read as follows:
+
+      "The Moltke will arrive at Gibraltar to-morrow, February
+      fifteenth, before daylight. Breakfast will be served at an early
+      hour and tenders will be alongside the steamer at seven o'clock to
+      take the tourists to the dock. There guides will be in waiting and
+      three hours will be spent in Gibraltar.
+
+      "At ten o'clock the tourists will be conveyed in the steam ferry
+      across the bay to the railroad station at Algeciras, from which
+      place the train will start for Granada. During the ferry passage a
+      box containing luncheon to be eaten on the train will be given to
+      each person.
+
+      "Dress warmly or take heavy wraps, as it is sometimes cold at
+      Granada at this season of the year.
+
+      "Call at the office at the news-stand on main deck for railroad
+      tickets and hotel assignments.
+
+      "The excursion party returning will leave Granada at four o'clock
+      Monday afternoon and arrive at the steamer about midnight. The
+      Moltke will then sail for Algiers."
+
+"Let us go to the office at once. The giving out of tickets may require
+considerable time," said my room-mate.
+
+Others were of the same opinion, it seemed, for many were ahead of us,
+but there was no delay, each applicant receiving promptly with his
+railroad ticket a card bearing the name of the hotel in Granada to which
+he was assigned. The managers of the tour, having arranged in advance
+for the required number of rooms at the principal hotels, were prepared
+to make the allotment before leaving the vessel, so avoiding confusion
+and delay on our arrival at our destination, and securing for us prompt
+attention at the hotels.
+
+Some of our friends who had already received their envelopes rejoiced to
+see on their cards "Hotel Washington Irving," a hotel which they knew
+from description to be beautifully situated on the heights near the
+Alhambra.
+
+"Hotel Victoria," I read on mine. I was disappointed at first, but on
+the following day I found that the central location of the "Victoria"
+gave opportunities to see much of the life of the city that might have
+been missed had the assignment been to the hotel in the suburbs.
+
+When we awoke the next morning the Moltke was lying quietly at anchor.
+We hastily dressed and ascended to the deck.
+
+Any one who has seen pictures of the huge rock that guards the entrance
+to the Mediterranean will recognize Gibraltar at sight if he approaches
+the rock from the right point of view. The illustrations, however,
+represent a somber mountain. The picture we saw showed white houses, red
+roofs, green trees, patches of lawn, groups of shrubbery, and plots of
+flowers, all contrasting with gray rocks; these with blue sky overhead,
+and white sails in the foreground gave life and color to the scene.
+
+As we gazed for some time from the vessel's deck at the strong fortress
+which has been held securely in the grasp of Great Britain for two
+hundred years, we thought of the many unsuccessful attempts that have
+been made during those two centuries to wrest it from British control;
+most noted of all, the long siege by the French and Spanish forces that
+continued for four years when Napoleon was supreme in France. What might
+have been the result, if England's grasp on the rock had been broken by
+Napoleon; or what the outcome, if Napoleon's fleet had been victorious
+in the conflict on the near-by Trafalgar Bay!
+
+[Illustration: THE ROCK HAD A PEACEFUL LOOK.]
+
+The rock had a peaceful look, but we knew that the cactus plants, which
+grew rank on the slope of the mountain, concealed powerful batteries,
+and that on the summit of the rock were mounted cannons of the largest
+calibre, which, if required, could hurl projectiles to the far side of
+the strait, a distance of twelve miles.
+
+On one of the highest points of the rock stands the Signal Tower. To
+this tower the officers of the Moltke had signaled the news of our
+arrival when the steamer entered the harbor, and before we had stirred
+from our berths, that information had been flashed over the cable to
+London and New York. On the following morning our friends at home read
+in the shipping news of their daily paper, the following item:
+
+"Arrived out; Feb. 15, Gibraltar, Moltke, from New York."
+
+As we started ashore on the lighters at the early hour appointed, we
+realized that we should have to take in a great deal in a very little
+while. We entered the city of Gibraltar by a tunnel-like entrance
+through walls of great thickness. The gateway was closely guarded by
+sentinels, who demanded the passes with which we had been furnished and
+who told us that these would be good only until sunset, for at the
+firing of the evening gun each day the gates are closed and the passes
+then are useless.
+
+[Illustration: WE DESCENDED A LONG LADDER OF FIFTY STEPS.]
+
+The markets near the gates, where many kinds of fruits, vegetables, and
+fish, unlike those seen in our home markets, were offered for sale,
+first attracted our attention. Here customers carrying oddly shaped
+baskets were bargaining with Moorish fishermen, Jewish peddlers, and
+Spanish marketmen. Each dealer, with gesticulations and loud voice,
+appeared to be asserting the superiority of his own wares. There was a
+confusion of tongues. Only the pigs tied to stakes squealed, and the
+chickens in wicker crates crowed, in strains familiar to our ears. The
+streets through which we proceeded were clean but narrow. The sidewalks
+were only wide enough for two people to walk side by side. The buildings
+were constructed of gray limestone similar to that of which the great
+Rock is composed.
+
+The presence of an army in this stronghold was indicated by the large
+number of soldiers we met. An officer whom we questioned kindly told us
+that the garrison consisted of about six thousand men, and that
+provisions sufficient to feed that number for five years in case of
+siege were at all times kept in storage. He advised us to visit the
+"Lower Galleries" of the fortifications on the heights and obtain the
+view from that point, and then to attend the afternoon band concert in
+the park. But our limited stay did not permit us to follow his
+suggestions.
+
+"In some respects," said the Major, "Gibraltar is rather a dull post for
+the officers stationed here; but we have a large library, billiard and
+club rooms, courts for tennis, and ground for polo. We have also many
+dances and riding parties, and occasionally attend the Spanish bull
+fights which take place in the large bull ring across the bay at
+Algeciras."
+
+[Illustration: WALLS OF GREAT THICKNESS AND A TUNNEL-LIKE ENTRANCE.]
+
+The great variety of uniforms worn by the soldiers of England was
+particularly noticeable. We saw squads in khaki uniforms carrying
+quarters of beef toward the barrack buildings on the hill; a detachment
+in Scotch kilts marching to relieve the guards on sentinel duty at the
+neutral ground; many smart looking corporals and sergeants in short red
+jackets and little red caps placed jauntily on the sides of their heads,
+carrying short canes; an elderly looking officer in spotless white
+flannel, to whom the military salute was given by all soldiers who
+passed him; numbers of officers in red coats and white duck trousers;
+and a group of troopers in undress uniform of coarse white or grey, who
+had been grooming the horses in the stables.
+
+[Illustration: THERE IS A LITTLE MILK-MAID SERVING MILK.]
+
+Other things of interest that the camera of our eyes snapped as we
+hurried along, were yellow-slippered, bare-legged, swarthy Arabs gliding
+quietly by; a neat grey-gowned nurse taking two pretty English children
+to early service; Spaniards in long black cloaks and felt hats drawn
+down, who looked exactly like the conspirators we see in a play; many
+sailors in the garb of various nations, who appeared to be enjoying a
+holiday ashore; Hebrew residents in peculiar looking coarse costumes;
+well dressed English people with prayer books on their way to church;
+Moors from Tangiers in snow-white turbans, and black-haired Spanish
+señoritas with large pompadours, high combs, and mantillas draped
+gracefully over their heads. These, with many others, met our sight;
+but, among all the crowd we encountered, we were not approached by a
+beggar, the soliciting of alms being forbidden by the military
+authorities.
+
+We paused to glance at the little Trafalgar cemetery, but did not enter.
+
+"Here," said the English guide, "sleep many of the British heroes who
+with our gallant Nelson gave their lives to gain the famous naval
+victory of the Bay of Trafalgar, in which the French and Spanish fleets
+were destroyed. Bonaparte boasted that the combined navies of the two
+countries would crush our British fleet, and then his army would cross
+the channel and camp in London; but our brave Admiral upset Napoleon's
+plans."
+
+Beyond the cemetery we crossed the Alameda or Park Gardens, the pleasure
+ground of the people, where the military band plays in the afternoon and
+evening. There we saw a luxuriant growth of subtropical vegetation,
+orange trees with leaves of dark, glossy green, date palms with bunches
+of unripe dates, palms with broad leaves, spreading pepper trees, and
+great ash trees whose roots protruded above the ground for unwary
+tourists to stumble over. The geraniums and heliotropes were of gigantic
+size, and many other flowering plants were unusually large.
+
+[Illustration: EACH COMPARTMENT SEATS EIGHT.]
+
+Our guide persuaded us to enter a museum, as he called it; but this
+proved to be a regular old curiosity shop containing a large assortment
+of oddities and souvenirs with which the owner was willing to part for a
+sufficient compensation.
+
+"There is a little milkmaid serving milk. I'll take a snap-shot of her
+while she is at work," said one of our party with a camera as we drew
+near a young girl who was drawing milk directly from a brown-haired goat
+into a customer's pitcher.
+
+While returning to the wharf we met several herds of the brown-haired
+goats driven by milkmen through the streets; and, assembled near the
+dock around a group of English Salvation Army lads and lasses who were
+singing familiar hymns accompanied by cornet and drum, we saw a motley
+crowd of men, many of whom from their diverse and peculiar costumes were
+evidently sailors from various ports of the world. Then, having
+completed our hurried tramp through the city in the time allotted for
+that purpose, we descended the steps at the pier to the ferry-boat that
+was to carry us a few miles across the bay to the town of Algeciras.
+
+After thirty minutes on the ferry we stepped ashore on Spanish soil. The
+first special train had departed and the second was being made up.
+During the short interval of waiting, the kodak carriers were busily
+engaged securing their first Spanish views.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+GRANADA AND THE ALHAMBRA.
+
+
+The small cars on the railroad which carried us from Algeciras to
+Granada were divided into compartments with doors opening from the
+sides. Each compartment comfortably seated eight persons, four facing
+the front and four the rear. This arrangement of seating allows general
+conversation among the group, and, if the occupants are congenial,
+promotes sociability.
+
+A traveler speeding through the United States in a "Chicago Limited," at
+the rate of sixty miles an hour, can merely catch glimpses of objects on
+the way and receive only blurred and indistinct impressions of the
+scenery; but when traveling in the "Spanish Express," at the more
+moderate speed of twenty-five miles an hour, he can enjoy clear and
+vivid pictures of the unfolding panorama. Let me try to describe some of
+these pictures just as they appeared to us during the trip.
+
+Looking back after leaving Algeciras, we saw the huge rock of Gibraltar,
+almost an island, connected with the main land by a narrow, flat, sandy
+isthmus. Across the "neutral ground," as the strip between the English
+and Spanish possessions is called, a line of sentry boxes extended, and
+red-coated British sentinels paced back and forth. Parallel to the
+British line there was another line of sentry boxes, where the
+soldiers of Alfonzo were on guard to prevent the smuggling of tobacco
+and other forbidden wares into Spain.
+
+[Illustration: TWELVE WEATHER BEATEN MARBLE LIONS UPHOLD AN ALABASTER
+BASIN.]
+
+"See those miserable little white plastered huts with roofs made of
+straw," said one of our party. "I did not know that the people were so
+poor."
+
+This picture of poverty was our first impression of Spain. For some
+distance the train had been running through a region apparently
+unfertile, where fences of sharp spined cacti enclosed small fields. The
+people were shabbily dressed, the houses straw-thatched and dilapidated,
+and the little patches of land poorly cultivated. It seemed that Sunday
+was a common wash-day; for at almost every cottage the family wash was
+hanging in the sun on trees, shrubs, or cacti.
+
+Within an hour, however, we were passing through a section of the
+country entirely different in aspect, where the cork industry gives
+employment to many people. For a distance of eight or ten miles groves
+of cork-oak trees were in sight. At the station were bulky piles of cork
+bark, cars stacked with cork were on the sidings, and great carts drawn
+by oxen were on the roads bringing in still more of this valuable
+commodity.
+
+"Millions of bottles are made in our city," said a New Jersey girl, "and
+there is enough cork here in sight to stopper them all."
+
+Beyond this, the land was more fertile and under better cultivation.
+Well built stone houses replaced the huts; glossy-leaved orange trees
+and pink-blossomed almond trees dotted the fields or filled the
+orchards. Instead of fences, the boundaries of fields and farms were
+marked at the corners by white stones projecting above the ground.
+Farther along, yellow-green olive plantations, magnificent in size and
+beautiful in color, filling the valleys and hillsides as far as the eye
+could see with orderly, far-reaching lines of trees, made so impressive
+a sight that it drew forth many expressions of admiration.
+
+[Illustration: SPANISH CHILDREN CAME TO THE STATION.]
+
+Women, as gatekeepers, waved white flags to signal that the crossings
+were clear. Gangs of men, often thirty in a gang, were in the fields
+cultivating leeks or onions with crude, heavy-looking, short-handled
+hoes. Teams of long-horned oxen attached to old-fashioned plows, at
+times eight or ten teams in one field, were turning up the soil.
+Occasionally ox-teams drawing heavily laden carts or wagons were seen
+along the smooth white roads; but more frequently appeared trains of
+slowly moving donkeys, five or six in a line, with gay trappings and
+bells and panniers piled high with produce, driven by red-sashed
+muleteers.
+
+At stations where the train stopped five or ten minutes, the doors at
+the sides of the compartments were opened and the passengers descended
+and walked up and down the platform. Spanish women, carrying jugs, cried
+"Lacte," "Limonada," "Narrandjada," and "Acqua," and other peddlers with
+baskets offered "bollos," "tortitas," and "narranges." After some
+difficulties in obtaining information as to "how much," the shillings
+and pence, pesetas and centimes of the tourists were exchanged for the
+milk, lemonade, orangeade, and water, the cakes, rolls, and oranges of
+the dealers.
+
+One of the ladies, after making a purchase, said, "I asked that woman
+with the black-eyed baby the price of a half dozen oranges. She said,
+'Fifty centimes.' Then I offered her an English six-pence, and she gave
+me six oranges and a penny in change."
+
+Spanish boys scrambled for a roll or boiled eggs thrown to them, and
+men, women, and children extended their hands for money or remnants of
+our luncheon. One boy who had secured an apple and an egg in a scramble
+laughed with happiness over his success. These people did not appear to
+be destitute; for children, as well as adults, were comfortably clothed,
+and wore neat looking shoes and stockings. As the day, however, was
+Sunday, probably they were in holiday attire.
+
+The red-capped station masters were important personages. At the
+principal stations they directed the starting of the trains with the
+greatest care and deliberation. In our own country the conductor's hand
+touches the signal-cord and the train moves. At Ronda, a bell in the
+station rang, then a red-capped employee trotted along the length of the
+train ringing a hand dinner bell. A minute later he repeated his trip
+with warning bell, then the whistle tooted, but it was not until the
+red-cap was sure that every passenger was aboard that the whistle issued
+a second toot and the wheels began to revolve. These extraordinary
+precautions, although affording amusement for the tourists, may have
+been taken under special orders of the railroad officials in order to
+avoid accidents and insure our safety. At any rate, we know that the
+railroad officials and their Spanish employees did give us special
+attention and treat us with kindness and courtesy.
+
+[Illustration: "MAY WE KODAK YOU?" "THEY ALL DO," HE REPLIED.]
+
+Through many deep cuts and tunnels, over romantic gorges of dark depth,
+and along cliffs whose heights we could not see, the train climbed and
+crossed a mountain range. As the car emerged from tunnel or cut,
+changing scenes of wild and savage landscape appeared near by, and
+charming glimpses of distant valleys far below. The torrents and
+waterfalls of the river Gaudiara added to the weird beauty of the scene.
+A stanza in Southey's poem, "The Cataract of Lodore," fittingly
+describes the wildness of the river that we crossed and re-crossed so
+often:
+
+                "Here it comes sparkling
+              And there it lies darkling:
+              Now smoking and frothing
+                The cataract strong
+                Then plunges along,
+    And dashing and flashing and splashing and clashing:
+    And so never ending but ever descending,
+    Sound and motions forever are blending."
+
+A famous canyon, deep and narrow, with rushing, foaming stream, seemed
+like a crevice sliced down by a gigantic blade. Towns and villages far
+away amid green fields and gray olive orchards, and buildings of white
+and cream, luminous in the sunlight, with backgrounds of dark and rugged
+mountains, produced a succession of picturesque views. Among the hills
+were seen young Davids, staff in hand, guarding flocks of grazing sheep,
+ancient swineherds lazily watching droves of swine feeding on the roots,
+and goatherds following their nimble-footed brown herds as they picked
+their way among the rocks.
+
+As we approached our destination, the valleys showed signs of great
+prosperity. The fields were highly cultivated; the farms were irrigated
+by ditches of flowing water; the orchards were well trimmed; the
+buildings larger; and the red-sashed laborers more sprucely attired.
+
+[Illustration: MARVELOUSLY BEAUTIFUL IN MOORISH SPLENDOR.]
+
+At Pinos we saw the stone bridge where, in 1492, Columbus, on his way to
+France, disheartened by his failure to interest King Ferdinand in his
+plans, was over-taken by Queen Isabella's messenger and summoned back to
+court to receive his commission.
+
+As twilight was settling down we arrived on schedule time at the white
+stone station in Granada where carriages stood in waiting to convey us
+to the hotels. The Spanish drivers strove to surpass each other in
+speed. Our coachman lashed his horses till they ran like a run-away
+team. Regardless of anyone in the streets, grazing wagons by the way,
+overtaking and passing carriages ahead, he gave us the wildest ride we
+had ever taken. This chariot race to the hotel, a distance of over a
+mile, happily ended without accident or collision.
+
+"Well, I'm thankful that ride is over without an upset," exclaimed with
+a sigh of relief a nervous lady, who had tried ineffectually to restrain
+the driver's zeal by the use of English words which he did not
+understand.
+
+The old Cathedral, covering ground equal to a block in length and half a
+block in width, always attracts many visitors. Massive pillars support
+the roof and marble tiles cover the floor. The light, falling softly
+through stained glass windows, discloses valuable paintings on the
+walls, fine statuary in the aisles, and decorations of white and gold.
+
+"Is this building very old?" some one inquired.
+
+"Old!" replied the guide with scorn in his voice, "this Cathedral was
+here when Columbus discovered your country." The guide, however,
+exaggerated somewhat. It was built just about the time America was
+discovered.
+
+[Illustration: HERE WASHINGTON IRVING LIVED FOR A TIME.]
+
+In the Royal Chapel of the Cathedral, upon an alabaster mausoleum
+decorated with fine carving, lie the effigies of Ferdinand and Isabella.
+The soft, creamy alabaster gives them the appearance of sleeping. An
+inscription on the tomb reads as follows:
+
+     This chapel was founded by most Catholic Don Fernando and Dona
+     Isable, King and Queen of Spain, of Naples, of Sicily, of
+     Jerusalem, who conquered this kingdom and brought it back to our
+     Faith; who acquired the Canary Isles and the Indies; who crushed
+     heresy, and expelled the Moors and Jews from these realms.
+
+              Queen Dona Isable died Nov. 26, 1504.
+              King Don Fernando died Jan. 23, 1516.
+
+
+On the altar of the chapel is a very interesting bas-relief representing
+the surrender of the city of Granada. In the sacristy we were shown the
+carefully guarded holy relics; the richly embroidered vestments used on
+ceremonial occasions, the sword of Ferdinand; the sceptre, crown, and
+mirror of Isabella; and the casket which contained the jewels that the
+Queen offered in pledge to secure funds for Columbus.
+
+"Most precious of all the relics," said the sacristan, "is the
+handkerchief with which the blessed Santa Veronica wiped the sweat from
+the Savior's brow on the road to Calvary. This bears the impression of
+the Savior's face."
+
+The greatest point of interest in Granada, perhaps in all Spain, is, of
+course, the Alhambra. This is the name given to a collection of
+buildings located on an elevation that overlooks the city. These palaces
+on the heights were for many centuries the dwelling places of the
+Moorish kings, surrounded by their nobles, retainers, and guardsmen.
+They were also the repositories in which were stored the immense
+treasure accumulated from the forays of the Moors upon the Christians of
+northern Spain, and from the sacking of Christian cities. The palaces of
+the rulers and the treasure within were protected by great citadels and
+by stout walls which encircled the heights.
+
+[Illustration: DECORATED WITH ARABESQUES AND STORIED WITH
+INSCRIPTIONS.]
+
+In the latter part of the fifteenth century, after a long struggle, the
+Moorish power was overthrown by King Ferdinand, and since then Granada
+has been a Spanish city. Columbus was present at the court of the
+Spanish sovereign when the capitulation of Granada occurred in April,
+1492, and within two weeks after the surrender of the city received his
+commission to sail in search of a new world.
+
+Washington Irving's description of the entrance of the conquering
+Spaniards into the Alhambra after the capture of the city, might, with
+the change of a word or two, still portray the visit of a party of
+modern tourists.
+
+[Illustration: THE GENERALIFE OVERLOOKS THE ALHAMBRA.]
+
+"The halls lately occupied by turbaned infidels," he writes, "now
+rustled with stately dames and Christian courtiers, who wandered with
+eager curiosity over this far-famed palace, admiring its verdant courts
+and gushing fountains, its halls decorated with elegant arabesques, and
+storied with inscriptions, and the splendor of its gilded and
+brilliantly painted ceilings."
+
+[Illustration: PROTECTED BY CITADELS AND WALLS.]
+
+Although the coloring is faded, and in many places the intricate
+ornamentation is crumbling or broken, sufficient remains to show how
+marvelously beautiful it must have been in Moorish splendor. And
+beautiful it still is, notwithstanding the ravages of time.
+
+While in the Court of Myrtles, some of the party examined the light,
+graceful arches and the stucco tapestry interwoven with flowers and
+leaves that adorn the galleries; others were more interested in the gold
+fish swimming in the transparent water of the long sunken tank in the
+center of the tiled court. In the richly ornamented Hall of the
+Ambassadors, the state reception room of the king, we waited while the
+guide, in answer to a request, interpreted some of the delicately carved
+inscriptions that fill every available space on the wall.
+
+"One of these mottoes," said the guide, "that is repeated over and over
+again on almost every wall of the palace, reads: 'There is no conqueror
+but Allah.' Other mottoes which are very common are: 'There is no God
+but Allah;' 'Mohammed is the envoy of Allah;' 'Allah is great;' 'Allah
+never forgets;' and various quotations from the Koran."
+
+Twelve weatherbeaten marble lions in the center of the Court of Lions
+uphold a large alabaster basin in which were caught, in times gone by,
+the falling waters of the fountain above it. Many graceful pillars
+support the surrounding arcades of this court and the exquisite
+fret-work looks as if carved in ivory.
+
+A practical man in the party called attention to the beautiful wooden
+doors through which we entered the Hall of the Abencerrages, and to the
+peculiar manner in which they were hung on pivots instead of hinges. On
+the rim of the marble basin in the center of this hall some red stains
+were seen.
+
+"Here," said our guide, "is where the heads of the Abencerrages were cut
+off.
+
+"But why was Aben's head cut off?" inquired a lady.
+
+This gave the guide the opportunity he desired.
+
+"A prominent member of the tribe or family of the Abencerrages, named
+Hamet," he replied, "fell in love with the Sultana, and she in return
+loved the handsome and gallant warrior. Secret meetings took place under
+a cypress tree in the garden of the Generalife until the Sultan,
+Boabdil, accidentally discovered their meetings. The enraged Boabdil,
+without revealing his knowledge of their actions, invited the guilty
+Hamet and every member of his tribe to attend a banquet. As each guest
+arrived at the palace he was brought into this hall. Here the guards
+seized him, forced his head over the edge of this basin, and the sharp
+simitar of the executioner showed no mercy. This was the king's revenge,
+and so the stains on the fountain."
+
+The Room of Two Sisters brought forth exclamations of praise. Walls
+covered with dainty traceries in plaster, like embroideries on a ground
+of lace work; dados brilliant in fantastic designs of red, green, and
+blue; ceilings dropping thousands of stalactites each differing from the
+others in beauty of form; and charming views from the boudoir windows of
+floral beds and fountains in the garden beyond,--all these combined to
+make this place a suitable residence for a Queen.
+
+In the Baths we saw where royalty had bathed in marble basins to the
+sound of music by players in the gallery overhead.
+
+"Here are the rooms which Washington Irving occupied in the Alhambra
+during his stay in Granada," explained the guide.
+
+[Illustration: THE SUMMER RESIDENCE OF THE MOORISH KINGS.]
+
+Some of us tried to recall Irving's graphic descriptions in the
+"Conquest of Granada" of the scenes around this city; of the struggles
+between the Christian knights under the banner of Ferdinand, and the
+Moorish cavaliers under the standard of Mahomet; of fields covered with
+silken canopies; of cavalcades of warriors in jeweled armor and nodding
+plumes; of hand-to-hand conflicts and daring exploits; of the siege
+and capture of the city and expulsion of the Moors from Spain. As we
+thought of the unfortunate Boabdil, the noble queen mother Ayxa, and the
+beautiful Zoraya, driven into exile, giving up their beloved palace, the
+home of their ancestors with all its wealth and beauty, to their hated
+enemies, and leaving the land which had been in possession of the Moors
+for eight centuries, we to some extent realized the sorrow that filled
+the hearts of the departing exiles as they looked back for the last time
+on the heights of Granada and wept.
+
+[Illustration: CHARMING VIEWS FROM BOUDOIR WINDOWS.]
+
+Although the buildings of the Alhambra are partly in ruins, the view
+from the Old Watch Tower has not changed materially. Standing on the
+tiled roof to which we climbed by many well worn stone steps, we saw a
+magnificent panorama spread out before us. The city lay almost at our
+feet; beautiful valleys extended for many miles dotted with white
+villages; gray olive orchards appeared here and there; verdant hills
+rose in the distance; and, forty miles away, the snow-covered peaks of
+the Sierra Nevada pierced the sky.
+
+After leaving the tower, we drove to the Palace of the Generalife, which
+is situated on the mountain side considerably higher than the Alhambra.
+We approached this beautifully located residence, where Moorish kings
+came to spend the summer months, by a wide path bordered with tall
+cypress trees. In the Court of the Cypresses our Spanish guide pointed
+to a venerable tree and said: "That cypress is six hundred years old;
+under it the guilty lovers, the Queen and Hamet, had their meetings
+until discovered by King Boabdil."
+
+In the gardens of the Generalife, we rambled amid oddly trimmed trees,
+climbing roses, immense rose bushes, fountains, and grottoes, and wished
+that our stay might be prolonged. The terraces of the garden have
+flights of marble steps leading from one level to another. One of the
+flights we descended had runlets of water flowing down on the top of the
+marble balustrades. Water, clear and sparkling, which is brought from a
+mountain stream above, is abundant everywhere in fountains and pools,
+and in streamlets along the pathways.
+
+Among the sights of the city the milk delivery was interesting to
+strangers. A number of long-haired brown goats having been driven to the
+door of a house, a pitcher was brought and the milk drawn fresh from one
+of the goats; or a cow was led along the street and the milk furnished
+directly from the cow in any quantity desired by the customer.
+
+Small donkeys with panniers were used instead of wagons for the transfer
+of almost every kind of material in the city and country. Often the
+burdens were so large that the donkey was almost lost from sight. We saw
+these patient little animals driven through the streets variously laden
+with sacks of charcoal, bundles of wood, baskets of vegetables, crates
+of oranges, bags of coal, cans of water, kegs of wine, or bearing
+hampers filled with building stone, bright tinware, or new-mown grass.
+Even the street cleaners shoveled into the panniers on the donkeys'
+backs the dirt and refuse that had been collected on the streets.
+Occasionally we saw men or women or children perched on the top of a
+load. Two men were sometimes seen riding on one donkey, and once we
+observed three large men on one small donkey.
+
+[Illustration: INTO THE PANNIERS ON THE DONKEY'S BACK.]
+
+As we drove along the streets to the station the residents at doors,
+windows, and sidewalks smilingly commented among themselves on our
+outlandish foreign costumes, evidently comparing our American styles
+with their own familiar dress. It was certainly as interesting to the
+Spanish women to observe the peculiarities of our costumes as it was for
+us to notice the mantillas and gay bodices which gave them a picturesque
+appearance in our eyes. We were being inspected as well as they; but the
+Spaniards are so polite that there was nothing unpleasant in their
+curiosity.
+
+It was after midnight when the steam launches carried us across the bay
+from Algeciras to our steamship. The reception given us at the Moltke,
+after our two days' absence, made us feel that we had indeed arrived
+home. Colored fires reddened the waters, clusters of electric lights
+illumined the sides of the vessel, the band was playing on deck, and the
+captain welcomed us at the head of the gangway. Then while the orchestra
+played selections, a full course midnight dinner was served to the
+hungry pilgrims.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+THE CITY OF ALGIERS.
+
+
+On the morning of Tuesday, February seventeenth, the Moltke was speeding
+over a calm sea toward the coast of Africa. The tourists, after the
+strenuous sight-seeing of the past two days, luxuriously rested. Some
+lazily lounged in steamer chairs with pillows under their heads and gay
+blankets over them; others exchanged experiences with friends while
+sauntering slowly around the deck. Some in groups surrounded the card
+tables, playing or watching the games; while others read books from the
+shelves of the library, or gathered the latest home news from the
+columns of the London Times, or the Paris edition of the New York
+Herald, copies of which had been taken on board at Gibraltar.
+
+During the afternoon, however, a north-east wind suddenly arose which
+stirred the blue waters of the Mediterranean until the short choppy
+waves gave to the vessel a new and peculiar roll, differing from any
+previously experienced by those on board. As a result, many of the
+passengers, not being able to adjust themselves to this unfamiliar
+change of motion, became suddenly pale, and prudently retired to the
+privacy of their staterooms. But by the time the evening dinner was
+served the wind had somewhat subsided, and the majority of the
+passengers gathered in the saloon for an entertainment in the form of a
+roll-call of states. This was presided over in a jolly manner by a
+prominent lawyer from Philadelphia. As he called the name of a state,
+some native of that state responded in a short informal address in which
+he praised his section of the country so highly that he made it appear
+to be a perfect El Dorado. There was but time to hear from seventeen
+states although representatives from almost every state in the Union and
+from Canada were present.
+
+When the sun rose on Wednesday morning our steamer was anchored within
+the breakwater a short distance from the docks in the harbor of Algiers.
+A pleasant sight greeted our eyes when we came on deck. We saw a little
+white boat gliding over the waves flying the American flag, then two
+white steam launches speeding through the harbor with the same emblem
+floating in the breeze, while, over to the left, we descried at anchor
+three white gun boats, and hanging at their sterns our country's flag.
+
+[Illustration: LIKE GHOSTS WALKING THROUGH THE STREETS.]
+
+"Three cheers for the Stars and Stripes," cried an enthusiast, and the
+hurrahs were given earnestly and vigorously.
+
+On the bulletin board we found the following notice posted:
+
+     PROGRAM FOR ALGIERS.
+
+     The Managers will furnish landing tickets to the tourists but all
+     expenses while on shore in Algiers will be borne by each
+     individual.
+
+     Carriages will be waiting on the docks for those who desire to
+     ride, at their own expense, and a guide will be assigned to go with
+     every four carriages.
+
+     Meals may be obtained by returning to the ship, and passengers are
+     expected to return to the vessel at night.
+
+"How shall we spend the day without a definite plan laid out for us?"
+said one of a group at the bulletin board.
+
+"Let us take carriages with a guide as interpreter," suggested another,
+"and drive around the city during the morning, then buy our luncheon at
+a French restaurant, and spend the afternoon tramping around and
+visiting the shops."
+
+"That will suit me, especially the shopping part; I want to buy some
+souvenirs," replied a third.
+
+"And return hungry to the vessel in time for a good dinner in the
+evening," added a fourth.
+
+Descending the ship's ladder, we placed ourselves in the care of the
+bronzed Arab boatmen, whose little boats had for some time been circling
+around the steamer, and were rowed to the custom house pier. Not having
+luggage to be examined, we fearlessly passed the red-trousered custom
+officials in the building and crossed the busy docks to the carriages in
+waiting.
+
+[Illustration: THE LITTLE MOSQUE IN GOUVERNMENT SQUARE.]
+
+At the docks many vessels were lying, and the wharves were filled with
+outgoing and incoming freight. Beyond the docks along the front of the
+city is a broad avenue, the Boulevard de la Republic, elevated forty or
+fifty feet above the wharves. This boulevard is supported on the sea
+side by solid white stone arcaded walls, and is reached by inclined
+roadways or by handsome stone stairways. On the land side it is lined
+with substantial white stone buildings of uniform height with an arcade
+in front.
+
+The population of the city of Algiers, about 100,000, is composed
+principally of Moors, Arabs, Negroes, and other African nationalities,
+but with a large number of French, and many Hebrews, some Spanish,
+English, and other Continental representatives, and a few Americans. On
+its streets we saw faces of different colors ranging from pure white,
+through all the tints of brown, to the deepest black.
+
+In the Place de Gouvernment, one of the centers of business and
+religious life of the city, we met turbaned Arabs, barefoot negroes,
+red-trousered soldiers, French civilians, American tourists, Hebrew
+traders, Kabyle mountaineers. In this motley crowd the native men and
+women especially attracted our attention. The Algerine men wore long
+white gowns fastened at the waist with a girdle; white cloaks, called
+bournous, around their shoulders; and white turbans of many folds on
+their heads. The richer classes were arrayed in spotless garments of
+fine material, stockings, and ornamented sandals; the laborers wore
+coarse gowns, and sandals made of rope; while the unclean bodies of
+importunate beggars and unfortunate cripples were but partially covered
+with filthy sacking and rags which hung upon them.
+
+The Mohammedan women, wearing long bloomers made exceedingly full, and
+white mantles resembling sheets draped over their heads and falling
+loosely around their bodies, looked like ghosts as they walked through
+the streets. The white bandages or veils wrapped around their heads
+concealed all the features except the eyes, which appeared black and
+piercing. The Arab men may be able to distinguish the age of these
+veiled females, but it was difficult for us to tell which were old
+women, and which young, except by the elasticity of their movements.
+
+[Illustration: THE ALGERINE MEN WEAR LONG WHITE GOWNS.]
+
+Near the Place de Gouvernment is the imposing palace of the Governor
+where all official business is transacted. Adjoining the palace stands
+the handsome Roman Catholic Cathedral. A long flight of white marble
+steps leads up to the doors of the Cathedral and a spreading palm tree
+stands like a guard near the foot of the stairway. As we stood before
+the tomb of St. Geronimo in the interior of the Cathedral, we listened
+to the following tale told by our Catholic guide.
+
+"A young man by the name of Geronimo, who lived in Italy about three
+hundred and fifty years ago, was captured by the Moors, and because he
+would not renounce the Christian religion, was condemned by his captors
+to death by torture. They tied his feet and hands with cords and threw
+him alive into a mould of soft concrete which slowly hardened around
+him, and the stone thus formed was built into the wall of a fortress
+then in course of construction. Fifty years ago, when the fortress was
+being demolished, the block of stone was discovered with the skeleton
+enclosed therein. The bones were carefully removed and interred in this
+Chapel in the tomb you see before you. Into the vacant space within the
+block of concrete, after removal of the bones, liquid plaster of Paris
+was poured, as into a mould, and a perfect model of Geronimo's body was
+obtained and placed in the Museum. It was in recognition of this act of
+heroism in refusing to renounce the Christian faith that the martyr was
+canonized and the name of Geronimo was added to the calendar of the
+saints of our Church."
+
+In confirmation of the guide's story, the plaster of Paris model of the
+dead martyr's body may be seen among the curiosities and antiquities in
+the National Museum, a short distance from the Cathedral. This model
+shows the features, the clothing, and the cords which tied his feet and
+hands.
+
+The main business part of the city is not only modern but model, having
+clean, well paved streets lined with substantial white stone four-story
+buildings with arcades or covered pavements in front of them. As very
+little smoke or soot rises from the city the white buildings have not
+become soiled and darkened but retain their freshness and purity of
+color.
+
+Many of the stores we visited were kept by Arabs who understood French
+but could speak only a few words of English. The prices named by these
+merchants were generally two or three times more than they expected
+customers to pay, and it was very amusing to watch the process of a
+sale. A price was named by the dealer; a bid was made by the customer;
+then figuring, explaining, and dickering went on in a mixture of
+languages and signs until finally, if the buyer's patience did not wear
+out, the deal closed with a compromise. When the purchaser departed
+happy with a bargain, the dealer also appeared well satisfied, and if
+the same buyer returned to the store after once making a purchase, the
+Arab merchant would recognize and welcome him with most gracious smiles
+as if he were one of his warmest friends.
+
+In these shops there was offered for sale such a varied and attractive
+assortment of oriental wares, that by evening the tourists were laden
+with packages. Handsome silk rugs, embroidered silk waists, curiously
+carved Algerine weapons, brightly colored leather goods, articles of
+hammered brass or copper, silver filagree work, ornaments of silver and
+gold, trinkets of ivory, coral and pearl, fans, photographs, and picture
+postal cards purchased during the day, were stored away in staterooms as
+souvenirs of Algiers.
+
+At the market stands were fruits and vegetables in abundance. The dates
+offered were especially pleasing in appearance and quality. The bread
+dealers, we noticed, sold bread by weight, and added or cut off chunks
+and slices in order to give the exact weight wanted by customers.
+
+The beggars did not trouble us very much by their importunities,
+although they were to be seen everywhere in filth and rags. Street
+peddlers, however, were persistent in offering wares and trinkets for
+sale, and bright Arab boys, who had learned a few sentences of English
+ran after us offering their services as guides.
+
+The coffee shops which we saw while passing through the streets were as
+numerous in Algiers as beer saloons in an American city. As the
+Mohammedan religion forbids the use of alcoholic liquors, the Arab
+followers of Mahomet appeared to be satisfying their craving for
+stimulants by drinking strong black coffee and by drinking it often. In
+the cafés, which are open in front, allowing all that goes on inside to
+be visible from the street, and on the benches outside the shops, we saw
+the customers sitting crosslegged slowly imbibing this favorite beverage
+from tiny cups. It was plainly apparent that in this warm climate where
+there is no haste, numberless hours are dreamed away on the benches of
+these cafés.
+
+[Illustration: ON FRIDAYS THE WOMEN VISIT THE CEMETERY.]
+
+When we left the modern part of the city and ascended the avenues which
+lead up the hill toward the older portion we found the streets
+diminishing in width until they were only passageways from six to ten
+feet wide, bordered by high buildings with blank walls showing no
+windows below, but with projecting windows above which almost meet
+overhead. In some of these steep, narrow, crooked streets there are
+little shops about the size of a large closet in which the merchant,
+sitting crosslegged on bench or cushion, can reach his goods and wait on
+his customer without rising or interfering with the enjoyment of his
+pipe. As the narrow thoroughfares are not wide enough for carriages, we
+had to walk through them with a guide. We were not favorably impressed
+with the odors nor with the sight of the filth in the streets and were
+glad when the guide turned from the gloom and foulness of the ancient
+Moorish streets and led us again toward the bright and attractive
+avenues of the modern city.
+
+The electric street cars are divided into two compartments; the first
+class having thin cushions on the seats, and the second class having
+wooden seats without cushions. The natives save the extra penny of fare
+by crowding into the second class, thus giving to the first class
+passengers the advantage of always having enough room. In the second
+class, however, the tourists had a more favorable opportunity to study
+the people. Opposite us in one of the second class compartments which we
+entered sat two veiled women in their voluminous white bloomers and
+wrappings. We could see that one was old by the fact that she leaned
+upon a staff, and we decided that the other was young because she showed
+some curiosity. Sitting near us was a little black haired Arab girl
+with a chunk of dry bread in her hand, at which she was gnawing
+greedily. In a corner seat a meek looking nun in black gown and wide
+spreading stiff bonnet was counting the beads of her rosary as quietly
+as if alone in her devotions.
+
+[Illustration: ABLUTION AT THE FOUNTAIN BEFORE PRAYER IN THE MOSQUE.]
+
+"Look," said one, as we were leaving the car, "there is the 'Thomson and
+Houston' stamp on the motor."
+
+"Yes," responded another, "American products appear to be well
+represented in this French colony."
+
+On the main business thoroughfare we had noticed warerooms where
+'Singer' sewing machines are sold; at an agency of the 'Eastman Company'
+we had restocked our kodaks with films; and we could not avoid seeing on
+a large sign, in letters that could be read a block away, the words
+'American Dentist.' Consequently when we passed the American Consulate
+it was with a feeling of pride that we saluted the National Emblem which
+was floating gracefully in the breeze.
+
+In the Rue de Marine we saw an old structure of large dimensions with a
+long row of plain white marble columns in front, which, from its
+appearance, might be mistaken for an old warehouse. We were told by a
+Moslem guard, who fortunately understood our inquiry and was able to
+answer our questions in English, that the building is the Mosque El
+Tebir, the Great Mosque, and that we might enter subject to certain
+regulations.
+
+"You must remove your shoes," said he, "or wear slippers over your
+shoes. You must also pay a small entrance fee."
+
+In the vestibule, the door-keepers of the Mosque selected slippers from
+an assortment of different sizes which they kept for visitors' use and
+tied these over our shoes with tapes. We were then permitted to enter
+and wander around the interior over the handsome Persian rugs which
+cover the stone floor.
+
+"The Moslems regard their Mosques as very sacred places consecrated to
+the worship of Allah, and they will not permit any profanation of their
+sanctuary," cautioned one of our party, a Presbyterian minister, seeing
+that we were inclined to make fun of the slippers. "The Moslems remove
+their shoes and enter the place of worship with reverence, and they
+expect us to behave in a respectful manner."
+
+[Illustration: THE CATHEDRAL ADJOINS THE PALACE OF THE GOVERNOR.]
+
+"The removal of the shoes at the entrance to a place of worship,"
+continued the minister in explanation, "is an immemorial Eastern custom
+based on the words: 'And he said, Draw not nigh hither; put off thy
+shoes from off thy feet, for the place whereon thou standest is holy
+ground,' and also on the words: 'And the captain of the Lord's hosts
+said unto Joshua, Loose thy shoe from off thy foot; for the place
+whereon thou standest is holy. And Joshua did so.' We should remember
+that the Mohammedan faith is based on the Old Testament, though
+supplemented by the instructions of Mahomet."
+
+In this ancient Mosque, where the worship of Allah and the study of the
+Koran has continued for nine hundred years, we found a few barefoot
+worshipers, some kneeling muttering their prayers, while others squatted
+on the floor reading the Koran aloud. At one end of the interior we saw
+the niche which indicates the direction in which lies the Holy City of
+Mecca, and toward this, as is the custom in all Mohammedan mosques, the
+worshipers turn their faces while at prayer. There were no benches or
+chairs in the mosque, as the devotees assumed a crosslegged position on
+the thick rugs during the time of their reading, and stood or knelt
+while offering prayer.
+
+The Jardin d'Essai, or Botanical Garden, situated in the suburbs near
+the sea about two miles from the center of the city, is reached by an
+electric street car of American make which for a three-cent fare
+carried us to the gates. In the garden the large and varied collection
+of tropical trees, plants, and vines, so different from those growing in
+our own temperate climate, greatly delighted us. An "Avenue of Palms"
+half a mile long was lined with palm trees of many varieties, some
+wide-spreading and curiously branching has broad leaves, and others,
+high-growing, has tufted tops swaying in the air fifty or sixty feet
+above our heads. A wider avenue of similar length was bordered with
+magnolia trees of immense growth which we then saw only in bud, but it
+was not difficult to see in imagination the magnificent picture that
+would be presented to the eye, when later on, these millions of buds
+overhead would be in full bloom. The "Bamboo Pathway" led through a
+dense growth of bamboos whose slender poles, bending under a slight
+breeze, kept up a continual creaking sound. Huge trees, whose
+wide-spreading branches were supported by scores of accessory trunks, so
+that each tree formed a grove of its own, we recognized as banyan trees.
+In one part of the garden, winding paths led through a tangled tropical
+growth so dense and wild that one felt as if in the midst of an African
+jungle where a tiger might spring forth or a boa constrictor drop down
+on one's head.
+
+On the heights to the east, in the favorite modern residential district,
+called Mustapha Superieur, many large white stone hotels and apartment
+houses were situated amid gardens of glossy-leaved orange and lemon
+trees. Palms, plane, and pepper trees lined the clean, wide avenues;
+green terraces beautified the hillside gardens; and villas were almost
+hidden from sight by the climbing roses and luxuriant vines with
+clusters of purple racemes.
+
+"Many of these villas," said the guide, "are owned by wealthy English
+and French families who spend the winters here. The mild climate and
+uniform temperature of our city makes this place a favorite winter
+resort not only for invalids, but for those who desire to get away from
+the damp fogs and harsh winds of more northern climates."
+
+[Illustration: THE ENTRANCE TO A NARROW STREET.]
+
+"Our city is noted for two views which we think are unsurpassed," he
+continued, as the driver reined in his team on a summit. "One is this
+which we now look down upon of city, harbor, sea, and villages near and
+distant along the shore. The other, you already have seen from the deck
+of the vessel, yet at sunset you will find that panorama of the city,
+villages, heights and mountains even more beautiful."
+
+While we were exploring the city, the officers on the steamer were
+engaged in directing the taking on of fresh supplies of coal, water, and
+provisions, which had been purchased at Algiers. During the two days the
+Moltke lay in the harbor fifteen hundred tons of coal were carried in
+baskets on the shoulders of Arabs from barges into the hold of the
+vessel, a slow method of delivering compared with the rush of the steam
+scoops in New York harbor where three thousand tons were dumped into the
+bunkers in a few hours' time. Fresh water also was brought from shore in
+tank barges and pumped from these into the tanks on the steamer. The
+quantity of fresh water required at this port cost the steamship
+company, so the engineer informed us, a sum equal to four hundred
+dollars. Also great quantities of fresh fruits and vegetables were
+received on board, one of the most welcome things thus added to our
+bountiful bill of fare being the tender green artichoke which in Algiers
+grows to perfection.
+
+On Thursday afternoon a reception was held on the Moltke and our band
+gave a most enjoyable musical program for the occasion. Hundreds of well
+dressed, courteous French ladies, gentlemen, and children, and some
+French officials in uniforms, came on board to visit the vessel which
+was thrown wide open for their examination. Some of the officers of the
+naval vessels also came to the reception and extended a cordial
+invitation to the tourists to visit the gunboats. This invitation was
+accepted by some who were willing to spare the time for that purpose.
+
+[Illustration: A STREET IN OLD ALGIERS.]
+
+"Less than one hundred years ago Algiers was a country of pirates," said
+one of the officers to a group of tourists, "and Algerine corsairs
+flying the black flag infested the Mediterranean coast. Like birds of
+prey they pounced upon the merchant vessels of other nations,
+confiscating the cargoes, seizing seamen and passengers, and burning the
+ships. They cast thousands of captives into dungeons and demanded heavy
+ransoms for their release. They sent many thousands to the markets to be
+sold,--the men to be degraded to slavery, the women, praying for death,
+to be dragged away to harems of their purchasers. Among the captives
+held for ransom were many Americans. But you are familiar with all this
+ancient history."
+
+"No, we are not," replied one of the ladies; "I may have read it but if
+so, it has slipped from my mind. Why, we have gone about the city
+feeling as safe and secure from harm and insult as we did in our home
+cities."
+
+"And you were as safe in Algiers during the day time as you would be in
+Paris, London, or New York. I should advise you, though, to keep off the
+streets of this and all Oriental cities after nightfall. We may be proud
+to remember that the United States was one of the first countries to
+stop paying ransoms and to administer a salutary reproof. In June of the
+year 1815 our Commodore Decatur sailed into this harbor and sent a
+message to the Dey of Algiers demanding the release of all Americans
+then held in captivity, threatening to bombard the city if the prisoners
+were not set free. The Dey after some demur yielded through fear of
+bombardment and liberated all the Americans; but sent a message to the
+Commodore requesting that a tribute in the shape of powder be given him
+in exchange for the captives. 'If the Dey wants powder, he must take the
+balls with it,' Decatur bravely replied. After that the merchant vessels
+flying the American flag were not molested. The great destruction of
+ships and the capture of Europeans continued until France, highly
+exasperated, determined that it must be stopped, and the Moors punished.
+An expedition was sent to Algiers and the country was conquered in the
+year 1830, since then Algiers has been a French colonial possession."
+
+Just as the sun was dropping below the horizon filling the air with a
+golden light, the anchor was slowly raised. A number of the French
+people who had been visitors to the Molkte were in a steam launch near
+by waiting to see our departure.
+
+[Illustration: LED THROUGH A TROPICAL, TANGLED GROWTH.]
+
+"Adieu," "Adieu," "Bon voyage," were the parting salutations, as the
+French ladies waved handkerchiefs and the French men raised their hats.
+
+As the warships were passed, "Three cheers for the Red, White, and Blue"
+were given with a will amid waving hats, handkerchiefs, and small flags,
+and our greeting was answered by the lowering and raising of the Stars
+and Stripes on board the warships. Then our great ship steamed slowly
+out of the harbor, passing the forts which at the extremities of the
+moles guarded the entrance, and the lighthouse whose strong, steady
+light was just beginning to shine.
+
+As we entered the open sea we looked back with regret at the scene of
+beauty behind us. Vessels flying flags of many nationalities lay at
+anchor in the harbor or at the piers. Above the handsome white stone
+docks on the sloping hillside rose the clean-looking white city. On the
+hill to the right far away in bold relief stood the Church of our Lady
+of Africa. To the left, as far as the eye could reach, along the shore
+of the bay beyond the city, were clusters of Moorish houses, white
+villages, and green plains, and on the heights above, white villas and
+hotels in the midst of green foliage. In the distance rose a range of
+high hills, and far beyond the gray peaks of the Atlas Mountains bounded
+the horizon.
+
+No picturing of that scene can show the beauty of the view there
+presented to our eyes. But he who has visited Algiers will never forget
+the soft harmonizing colors of blue sky, white and yellow buildings,
+green foliage, and gray background.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+THE ISLAND OF MALTA.
+
+
+Among the tourists were twenty-one Knights Templar. These Knights took a
+special interest in the history of the island of Malta and the romantic
+story of the Knights of St. John. For the benefit of those who desired
+the information, a lecture on Malta was delivered by a member of our
+party who was familiar with the subject.
+
+"Know something of the history of the island," advised the lecturer,
+"and you will appreciate and enjoy what you see there more highly than
+you would without that knowledge. In the fortifications, the palaces,
+the churches, of this island you will find many memorials of the Knights
+of Malta, and it may add to your pleasure to hear something about the
+famous warrior-monks before visiting these places."
+
+Many of his hearers, taking the advice, made notes of the story as
+related by him.
+
+"About one thousand years ago," he said, "the Order of the Knights
+Hospitallers was organized at Jerusalem, by Italians. Its members took
+vows of fraternity, chastity, and poverty. The purpose of the Order was
+to erect hospices for the shelter of pilgrims who came to visit the Holy
+Sepulchre at Jerusalem, and hospitals in which to care for the pilgrims
+when sick. During many years of faithful service the work of the
+Hospitallers was supported by contributions from all Christendom; but
+when the oppression of the Turks became unendurable, the Knights took
+upon themselves vows to fight in defense of the Christian faith, and the
+religious brotherhood became a band of saintly warriors. This band
+during the time of the Crusades grew into a great military order known
+as the 'Knights of St. John.' In the battles of the Crusades, the
+Knights, fighting against the infidels for the possession of the Holy
+Land, became renowned for great personal strength, dauntless courage,
+and daring heroism.
+
+[Illustration: THE HARBOR IS SURROUNDED BY OLD GRAY FORTRESSES.]
+
+"After the failure of the Crusades, the Knights were expelled from
+Palestine by the victorious Saracens, and, twenty years later, were
+driven from the near-by island of Cyprus. Fleeing to the island of
+Rhodes, they there enjoyed two centuries of power and increasing
+prosperity, during which time the banner of the cross remained
+victorious over warring Turks, Greeks, and pirates. Then at the end of
+this period came the memorable siege of Rhodes. For six months the
+steel-clad cavaliers withstood the assaults of the Ottoman hosts, and
+their ponderous battle axes swept down the infidel assailers by scores.
+Personal strength, however, could not endure the continual strain. The
+besieged, utterly worn out, were compelled to capitulate and leave
+Rhodes; but as a compliment to their valor, they were permitted by the
+Sultan to depart in honor, taking with them all movable property and
+treasure.
+
+"In the year 1530, the Knights of St. John found a refuge on the island
+of Malta. They grew in numbers and importance, fortified the island, and
+resumed the warfare against their hereditary foes. Success at sea and
+on land resulted in the capture of richly laden prizes, multitudes of
+captives, and booty of enormous value. The captives became slaves
+laboring on the fortifications or straining at the oars. The booty
+adorned the churches and enriched the people. But as power and wealth
+increased, the desire for spoils took possession of the hearts of the
+Knights and the original vows of humility, kindness, and charity were
+forgotten. They became proud and boastful seekers of plunder and
+believed themselves to be invincible. Their enemies called them pirates.
+
+"In 1565 their numbers were greatly reduced during a noted siege by the
+Sultan of Turkey. Then fortune smiled or frowned on them in varying
+moods for many years, whose story is filled with romance and interest.
+In 1798 the island of Malta, after having been for nearly three
+centuries in the possession of the Knights of St. John, was captured by
+an invading French force, and two years later it became, by conquest, an
+English possession.
+
+"The fortifications have since then been strengthened and equipped with
+modern armaments, so that the island is now considered an impregnable
+stronghold. Here, as at Gibraltar, an army is stationed in the barracks,
+and great quantities of provisions are kept in store to supply the
+garrison in case of siege. The harbor of Valetta is deep and safe, and
+the narrow entrance is commanded by three strong fortresses. Here is the
+headquarters of the Mediterranean fleet of the British navy. Here, also,
+are great repair docks, a coaling station where huge stocks of coal are
+kept on hand, and warehouses filled with naval supplies.
+
+[Illustration: MALTESE WOMEN WEAR PECULIAR BONNETS.]
+
+"The island is densely populated, the number of people to the square
+mile being four times greater than in England. The city of Valetta, the
+capital of Malta, named after the Grand Master, Jean de La Vallette, by
+whom it was founded in the sixteenth century, stands high above the
+water on a commanding promontory."
+
+"In this condensed account," said the lecturer in conclusion, "I have
+tried to give you a few of the main facts relating to the Knights and
+the island. Those of you who are interested in the romantic history may
+read it more fully when you have leisure after your return home."
+
+The Moltke cast anchor in the harbor of Valetta about six o'clock on the
+morning of the twenty-first of February. After we had partaken of an
+early breakfast, Maltese boatmen in scarlet caps and sashes, who stood
+up while handling their oars, rowed us to the shore. Their brightly
+painted boats had peculiar carved wooden posts erected at prow and stern
+and white awnings overhead. Walking up a sloping, zigzag pathway,
+constructed in a passage cut down through the high cliffs, we ascended
+from the busy docks to the heights above. At the summit a Maltese
+gentleman kindly directed us on our way to the Queen's Garden located
+directly above the landing place.
+
+From the parapets of this place a magnificent and interesting view of
+the harbor was obtained. Not far away, but hundreds of feet below us,
+the Moltke lay, encircled by the white awning-covered boats. Eight large
+battleships and a dozen cruisers and gunboats, all painted black, were
+lying peacefully at anchor. Steamships and sailing vessels at the docks
+were discharging cargoes, or were lying in the bay awaiting their turn
+to unload. Steam launches were busily flying from one point to another,
+and little ferry boats were constantly crossing and re-crossing the bay.
+The harbor was surrounded by high cliffs and old gray fortifications.
+At the entrance to the bay stood a tall lighthouse and a frowning
+fortress, the one for guidance, the other for protection. Through the
+entrance a ship with spread sails was entering, and beyond, the sunlight
+shone on the beautiful blue waters of the Mediterranean.
+
+[Illustration: ATTRACTIVE STORES LINE THE "STRADA REALE."]
+
+The streets of Valetta were full of life that day. In reply to inquiries
+we were informed that on the following day, the Sunday preceding Lent, a
+festa, or carnival, lasting three days, would begin. During the festa,
+business would be suspended, and the people, disguised in masks and
+fanciful costumes, would engage in most ludicrous and extraordinary
+antics and play all manner of practical jokes on one another, showering
+the passers-by gently with confetti and flowers, or pelting them
+stingingly with dried peas and beans. Many children, impatient for the
+morrow to come, were already parading the streets arrayed in their
+costumes.
+
+Attractive stores line the "Strada Reale," the main shopping street. In
+these stores laces, gold and silver filagree work, jewelry, and
+embroidered muslins were the principal wares sought by the tourists. The
+ladies of our party were particularly anxious to secure pieces of
+Maltese lace, a special hand-made product noted for the excellence of
+its quality, the making of which gives employment to thousands of the
+inhabitants. In trading with the Maltese merchants, we soon found that
+the prices asked by the dealers were about twice the amount the customer
+was expected to pay, and that bargaining was as necessary in Malta as in
+Algiers.
+
+Almost all the costumes we saw on the streets were of the English style,
+but the varied uniforms of soldiers and the distinctive garments of
+Greeks, Turks, Spaniards, and Arabs added color and interest to the
+scene. The Maltese women wear immense bonnets, called faldettas. These
+peculiar bonnets have long skirts which reach to the waist and are
+totally black without color or ornament. As the majority of the
+inhabitants are Roman Catholics, we saw many priests and monks who wore
+black robes and very broad-brimmed black hats turned up at the sides.
+
+The Maltese are lovers of flowers, which are raised in profusion. At the
+corners of the principal streets were small fanciful buildings, a few
+feet in diameter, in which dark eyed brunettes offered flowers and
+bonbons for sale. The people also love music. In the Opera House, an
+elaborate structure, which, we were told, cost a quarter of a million
+dollars, Grand Opera is given three times a week for six months in the
+year.
+
+We visited the old church of St. John, which was built three centuries
+ago and lavishly adorned out of the proceeds of plunder that had been
+taken from infidels and pirates. The tower above the church contains a
+chime of ten bells, and the clock on the tower has a triple face, one
+face showing the hour of the day, one showing the day of the week, and
+the third, the day of the month. The heavy doors were open, but a
+curtain of matting hung over the entrance. A ragged, barefoot boy ran
+before us, and, drawing aside the matting that we might enter, extended
+his hand for a penny. We walked over the beautiful inlaid mosaic marble
+floor, and beheld handsomely painted ceilings with life-size figures
+overhead, and richly decorated walls and pillars around us. A priest
+with pride pointed out the famous paintings on the walls, the bronze and
+the marble statues around the sides, and, in the various chapels, the
+three huge iron keys which opened the gates of Jerusalem, Acre, and
+Rhodes, and the gates of solid silver in front of the richly decorated
+altar. As we stood before the silver gates our guide told us his little
+story:
+
+"When the French captured Malta in 1798 they carried away as booty the
+most valuable possessions of the church in the form of precious jewels,
+silver statues, golden vessels, valuable vestments, and works of art.
+The Emperor Napoleon with his own hand took a most valuable diamond
+from the finger of the jeweled glove which covered the sacred relic, the
+hand of St. John, and placed it on his own finger. The Emperor also took
+the diamond mounted sword, which had been carried by Valette, and
+buckled it to his side. These silver gates, too, would have been carried
+away but for the forethought of a priest who painted them black and so
+concealed their value."
+
+[Illustration: THE STREETS OF VALETTA WERE FULL OF LIFE THAT DAY
+PRECEDING THE FESTA.]
+
+In the nave of this church we tramped over hundreds of marble slabs
+which have been placed among the mosaics in the floor as memorials of
+the knights and nobles who are buried underneath. These flat tombstones
+are adorned with representations of coats-of-arms, musical instruments,
+angels, crowns, palms, skeletons, and other odd devices. But in the
+crypt underneath, whither we were next conducted, majestic monuments of
+elaborate design mark the resting places of the most noted Grand Masters
+of the Order, the tomb of Grand Master Cottoner being one of the most
+imposing. In the sacristy we gazed at, but were not permitted to touch,
+the beautifully illuminated missals, the finely woven pieces of ancient
+embroidery, and the splendid robes of former Grand Masters.
+
+"The tapestry of the Lord's Supper and many other wonderful tapestries
+are locked in that chamber," said the priest, pointing to a closed door,
+"and are only exhibited in June each year."
+
+At one of the altars in a side chapel worshipers knelt before a piece of
+the true cross; but the relics regarded as most precious in the custody
+of the Church of St. John, a thorn from the Savior's crown, portions of
+the bones of three apostles, one of the stones cast at St. Stephen, the
+right foot of Lazarus, and a fragment of the cradle of the infant Jesus,
+are guarded with great care and rarely exposed to the gaze of curious
+eyes.
+
+In the Governor's Palace the tourists spent a short time. The walls of
+the Council Chamber are hung with rare tapestry which has retained its
+color and beauty for nearly three centuries. The dining room and
+corridors are decorated with paintings of grim-faced Grand Masters of
+the past; and the gorgeous ball room contains a throne on which these
+same rulers sat in state surrounded by pomp and splendor. In the great
+hall of the Armory are rows of figures clad in the antique armor worn by
+the Knights, together with steel gloves, helmets, and coats of mail,
+inlaid with gold and silver; and around this hall are arranged the
+crossbows, arquebuses, spears, pikes, swords, battle axes, and old
+battle flags. There with the treasures are the old silver trumpet that
+sounded the retreat from Rhodes, and the faded parchment manuscript, or
+Papal edict, which sanctioned the gift of the island by Charles V. of
+Germany to the Knights; and among the trophies are the jeweled coat of
+mail and weapons of a famous Algerine corsair, a cannon curiously
+constructed of a copper tube wound with tarred rope, and many torn and
+blood-stained, crescent-mounted standards which in the hand-to-hand
+conflicts had been captured from the Turks.
+
+"What soldier of the present day could march or even ride any distance
+so encumbered with steel?" remarked one of the tourists as we stood
+before an emblazoned suit of mail that had been worn by one of the
+Grand Masters of the Knights. "To handle these heavy battle axes or long
+spears for stroke after stroke or thrust after thrust during the long
+hours the battle raged must have required muscles of steel and wonderful
+powers of endurance."
+
+[Illustration: THE CLOCK ABOVE THE ANCIENT CHURCH HAS A TRIPLE FACE.]
+
+"These breastplates and helmets and shields, which were worn by the
+Knights to protect them from the arrows and spears of their enemies,"
+said one of the ladies, as she looked at the old armor, "enable me to
+understand better what St. Paul meant when he wrote to the Ephesians:
+'Put on the whole armor of God that you may be able to stand against the
+wiles of the devil,' and 'all the fiery darts of the wicked.' The old
+monk-soldiers must have interpreted that command literally when they
+went out to fight the infidels."
+
+After completing our sight-seeing in the city of Valetta, a little train
+of cars on a narrow-gauge railroad carried us a distance of six miles to
+the older city of Citta Vecchia. The land along the way as far as we
+could see was divided into small plots ranging from about half an acre
+to two acres in size. Each plot was surrounded by stone walls from six
+to ten feet in height, many of which were broken and dilapidated. We
+were told that, although the climate of the island is quite mild,
+violent winds frequently blow over it, and these walls were erected to
+protect the fig, orange, lemon, and other fruit trees from destruction.
+Protected from the high winds, these trees yield abundantly; and, in the
+fertile soil of these plots, two or three crops of vegetables are raised
+each year. Much of the land was rocky and uncultivated. Very few trees
+were seen and those were dwarfed. One species of evergreen tree, called
+the Carob, grew only ten feet in height, but spread to three times that
+in breadth. In some neglected spots the prickly pear grew in rank
+masses. The houses along the way, built of yellow or gray stone, had a
+weather-beaten look, and the yards around them were enclosed with high
+walls. The small square windows in the houses and the flat stone roofs
+with enclosing parapets reminded us of pictures of the houses in Bible
+stories.
+
+In Citta Vecchia the two principal attractions were the Cathedral of St.
+Paul and the Grotto of St. Paul. The Cathedral is said to be built on
+the site of the house of Publius, the governor of the island, who
+entertained and lodged St. Paul for three days after he was ship-wrecked
+on this island, which in the Bible is called Melita. The Grotto is said
+to have been occupied by St. Paul during his three months' stay on the
+island. About four miles from the Cathedral is the bay of St. Paul,
+where the apostle was wrecked while on his way to Rome. There is the
+little creek in which the sailors tried to guide the storm-tossed vessel
+and the shore to which they escaped "on boards and on broken pieces of
+the ship."
+
+In Citta Vecchia we were shown the mosaic pavement and the decorated
+frieze of an old Roman house supposed to be over two thousand years old,
+which had been uncovered at a considerable distance below the surface
+while an excavation was being made. Notwithstanding their age the old
+mosaic pavement and frieze were in good condition.
+
+An interesting day of sight-seeing closed with a drive in Valetta
+through the humbler part of the city and down a long inclined street
+which led to the docks. At nightfall as our steamship moved eastward the
+lights of Malta's stronghold gradually faded from our sight, but the
+gleam of its lighthouse followed us for many a mile.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII
+
+ATHENS AND THE ACROPOLIS.
+
+
+The sun was just appearing in the east as we approached the seaport of
+the Grecian capital.
+
+Through the mists of the dawning day we could make out dimly, ahead of
+us, only bleak bare hills. As the Moltke steamed through the straits we
+saw a lighthouse and a few buildings on the shore and over the low hill
+on our right the tops of masts; but when the vessel had entered through
+a narrow passage between the moles extending from either side, and had
+anchored in the centre of the well protected and commodious harbor of
+Piræus, we gazed on a scene of animation and activity. The bay was
+filled with shipping and the shore lined with warehouses where the
+stevedores were already busily engaged in lading or discharging cargoes.
+On each side of the Moltke, little more than a stone's throw away, lay
+gray battleships, cruisers, torpedo boats, destroyers, and other naval
+craft.
+
+"What war vessels are those?" was the question asked eagerly by many
+passengers.
+
+"The white flag with the blue St. Andrew's cross floating over that
+warship is the Russian national emblem," patiently replied one of the
+officers of our steamer, "and so I conclude that these vessels compose
+the Russian Mediterranean squadron."
+
+A band on the flagship began to play and the Russian sailors in clean
+white suits were seen forming in lines on the decks of the vessels,
+evidently for inspection or morning roll-call. On the rigging above the
+sailors' heads, swaying in the breeze, were hundreds of white suits,
+washed and hung out to dry.
+
+[Illustration: HUNDREDS OF WHITE SUITS HUNG OUT TO DRY.]
+
+Soon fifty or more large row boats were plying around our steamer in
+readiness to convey us to the railroad station at the upper end of the
+harbor about a mile away. As we approached the shore in these boats we
+saw on the wharf at Piræus a motley crowd of dirty-handed, bare-footed,
+ill-clothed men and boys. It seemed as if all the idle and vagabond
+population of the city had assembled to lounge lazily in the sun,
+hoping, perhaps, to obtain some small coins from the tourists during
+the transfer from boat to cars. If this was their hope they were
+disappointed. All arrangements for the welfare of the Moltke tourists
+had been carefully made in advance, and, as there was no baggage to be
+carried, the services of the dirty-handed men were not required.
+
+"Are these vagabonds and tramps the descendants of the noble Greeks whom
+we have honored all our lives?" sadly remarked a minister in our boat.
+"Can these be the offspring of the great orators who electrified their
+hearers, or of the famous architects and artists whose names are
+immortal? Are these swarthy-faced, plain-featured idlers the
+representatives of the Greek beauty of form and feature?"
+
+[Illustration: STRENGTH AND SIMPLICITY RATHER THAN BEAUTY.]
+
+In preparation for a visit to these historic shores we had filled our
+minds with tales of heroism and visions of the beautiful; now the sight
+of this bare-footed throng, so different from the pictures we had formed
+in our minds, was a severe shock to our imagination.
+
+"These vagabonds do not represent the Greek race," responded another who
+had traveled in that country before; "they are merely the dregs of the
+people, a class that may be found in any large city and especially in
+the seaports."
+
+The distance from Piræus to the city of Athens is but five miles. From
+the windows of the little cars we could see that the valley through
+which we passed was a succession of well cultivated fields, vineyards,
+and gardens. A white road, almost parallel to the railroad, traversed
+the valley. Gray-green trees in the distance indicated a district of
+olive orchards.
+
+At a station on the outskirts of the city we left the train and followed
+an old guide to visit the Theseum, or Temple of Theseus, a large edifice
+built in simple Doric style. The plain columns and unadorned pediments
+express strength and simplicity rather than beauty. Notwithstanding the
+fact that twenty-four centuries have passed since its erection, this
+temple is noted as being the best preserved of all the ancient buildings
+of Greece. A short time, however, sufficed for a view of the plain
+exterior and an entrance into the gloomy interior.
+
+[Illustration: I. OVER THE RUINS OF THE ANCIENT CITY.]
+
+[Illustration: II. "THIS IS MARS HILL," SAID THE GUIDE.]
+
+Then proceeding along a fine modern road, built over the ruins of the
+ancient city, traces of which were seen in adjacent excavations, we
+passed, on our right, an open plateau on the rocks where an audience of
+eight or ten thousand might assemble. This was the Pynx of ancient
+times, a gathering place of the people. A flight of steps hewn in the
+stone at one side of this plateau leads up to a platform cut in the
+rock. From this rock, named the Platform of Demosthenes, great orators
+addressed the multitude, stirring their countrymen to deeds of valor.
+Beyond the Pynx, a cave with gates of rusty grated iron was pointed out
+as the prison in which the noble Socrates was incarcerated before being
+condemned to drink the fatal hemlock.
+
+[Illustration: ONCE THE MAGNIFICENT MARBLE STAIRCASE.]
+
+Farther up the slope the guide pointed to a small rock elevation on our
+left and said: "That is the Areopagus, or Mars Hill, from which the
+Apostle Paul made his appeal to the idolatrous Athenians. He probably
+ascended those sixteen steps that you see hewn in the rock. Where we are
+standing now, the people stood to listen. From that elevation Paul could
+view the avenues leading to the Acropolis, avenues adorned with statues
+in honor of gods and goddesses and famous heroes."
+
+[Illustration: IN HONOR OF NIKE, THE GODDESS OF VICTORY.]
+
+As we stood there, we could almost hear Paul's words:
+
+"Ye men of Athens, I perceive that in all things ye are too
+superstitious. For as I passed by, and beheld the gods that ye worship,
+I found an altar with this inscription, 'To the Unknown God.'--God
+dwelleth not in temples made with hands.--We ought not to think that
+the Godhead is like unto gold, or silver, or stone, graven by art and
+man's device." The altar to the unknown god to which Paul referred may
+have been one of the many altars within sight of the elevation on which
+he stood.
+
+After we left Mars Hill a few minutes' walk brought us to the foot of a
+long flight of ruined steps, at the top of which stood broken marble
+columns. Before us was the Acropolis, the highest point of the city, a
+rocky eminence with inaccessible cliffs on three sides. The only
+approach to its summit, which is about two hundred feet above the level
+of the modern city, is on the southwest side, being reached by the
+avenues we had followed up the gradual slope past Mars Hill.
+
+"On this height," said the guide, "the Athenians, during the reign of
+Pericles in the golden age of Greece, erected a temple to their patron
+deity, Minerva, the goddess of wisdom. And to this goddess, named also
+Athena, who, as they asserted, sprang from the brain of Jupiter a mature
+woman in complete armor, they looked for protection. For her they
+offered their choicest gifts, yet they did not neglect the multitude of
+other gods whom they feared to offend."
+
+The old guide was well informed, but his English was rather difficult to
+understand. He was interrupted a number of times until one of the
+tourists, a college professor, undertook the task of assisting him in
+the story.
+
+"These dilapidated stone steps," said the professor, "formed once the
+magnificent marble staircase that led to the gateway of the Acropolis.
+The staircase was seventy feet in width; in the centre was a sloping
+carriageway up which chariots could be driven. It was built by Pericles
+four hundred years before the Christian era. Statues of wonderful
+beauty, by famous sculptors, were arranged along the steps. At times of
+great rejoicing, as after a victory, triumphal processions ascended
+these flights to present offerings to the gods, or to deposit in the
+treasury of the temple the spoils taken from their enemies and to offer
+sacrifices and worship to their protecting goddess. The Propylæa, or
+grand entrance hall and gateway to the Acropolis, stood at the head of
+the stairway; these broken columns are all that remain of one of the
+most imposing structures of that golden age."
+
+[Illustration: GIGANTIC STATUES OF WOMEN UPHOLD THE CORNICE.]
+
+"Keep close to the professor and never mind the guide," urged one of our
+companions. We followed her suggestion.
+
+"This small building on our right with four graceful Ionic columns in
+front," continued the professor, "is the Temple of the Wingless Victory,
+so called because it was erected by the Athenians in honor of Nike, the
+goddess of Victory. The statue of Nike which they placed within the
+temple, bore in her hand the palm of victory and upheld the wreath of
+laurel, but lacked the customary wings. The Athenians hoped that without
+wings victory might never depart from the shores of Greece."
+
+"The building to our left," said the professor as we moved on, "was
+named the Erechtheum after the Attic hero Erechtheus, and once contained
+a seated figure of the goddess Athena. These six gigantic statues of
+women upholding the cornice of the porch are the Caryatides and deserve
+a careful examination; for, although carefully prepared casts of the
+Caryatides may be seen in some of the large museums, no cast can be a
+perfect representation of the original. One of these figures, as you may
+easily see, is only a copy, the original having been carried away to
+England by Lord Elgin and given to the British Museum. The marble
+columns on the other side of the Erechtheum are considered the best
+examples in existence of the Ionic style of architecture."
+
+[Illustration: ACROSS THE SUMMIT OF THE ACROPOLIS, TRAMPLING OVER
+FRAGMENTS OF DECORATIONS.]
+
+Near the Erechtheum we passed the foundation on which had stood a
+colossal bronze figure of Athena, sixty feet in height, holding in her
+hand a spear tipped with gold, the point of which could be seen by the
+ancient mariners far out at sea. Making our way across the summit of the
+Acropolis around pieces of broken columns, trampling over fragments of
+decorations, and passing foundations of missing statues, we stood in
+front of the Parthenon, the temple which had been erected to the patron
+deity of the Athenians. We thought that the professor might weary of
+answering questions, but he seemed glad to voice the thoughts that were
+arising in his mind.
+
+"In the harmonious proportions of this stately edifice," he said, "the
+peerless genius of the architect Ictinus, who designed the structure, is
+revealed, and in the delicate finish of the smallest details of the
+sculptured work, the wonderful skill of the artists who carried out the
+master's design is shown. We hardly know which to admire more, the
+matchless genius of the designer, or the marvelous skill of the artists.
+Our poet Emerson truly says:
+
+    "Earth proudly wears the Parthenon
+    As the best gem upon her throne."
+
+During a pause for critical examination of the front of the temple, the
+amateur photographers of the party placed their cameras in position.
+
+"Place a group of people in the foreground," suggested the professor.
+"You see that the marble steps are nearly two feet in height, and
+without some object for comparison, these steps in a picture will appear
+to be only of ordinary size, thus an adequate idea of the size of the
+temple will not be given. When you see any picture of the Parthenon
+notice the truth of my suggestion.
+
+"There were, as you see at this end now," continued our instructor,
+"eight white marble columns at each end and seventeen columns along each
+side. The columns on the sides are mostly broken now or altogether gone,
+and the color has changed from white to this soft golden yellow tint.
+The carved marble frieze, which, over five hundred feet in length,
+extended around the building, was the work of Phidias and has never been
+surpassed in beauty by any sculpture of the kind in the world. And these
+fluted columns are, in grace and proportion, the noblest examples of the
+Doric style of architecture."
+
+"But, in the interior," said the professor, becoming more enthusiastic,
+"surrounded by statues and works of art in marble, bronze, ebony, ivory,
+and gold, stood the crowning glory of the Parthenon, the famous
+colossal statue of the goddess Athena Parthenos, Athena the Virgin,
+forty feet in height, made of ivory and gold under the direction of
+Phidias. The Caryatides as we looked at them awhile ago appeared
+gigantic in size, but they are only eight feet in height. The height of
+the statue of Athena was equal to five Caryatides one above the other.
+Let me read you the description of the statue by an old Greek historian,
+Pausanias."
+
+The professor, drawing a note book from his pocket, read as follows:
+"The image itself is made of ivory and gold. Its helmet is surmounted in
+the middle by the figure of a sphinx, and on either side of the helmet
+are griffins wrought in relief. The image of Athena stands upright, clad
+in a garment that reaches to her feet; on her breast is the head of
+Medusa wrought in ivory. She holds a Victory about four cubits high in
+one hand, and in the other hand a spear. At her feet lies a shield, and
+near the spear is a serpent."
+
+"The Victory referred to by Pausanias," said the professor, replacing
+his note book, "was an image of the goddess of Victory half the height
+of the Caryatides, which we refer to for comparison. The size of the
+statue held in Athena's hand helps us to realize the height of the
+colossal figure."
+
+"The Parthenon contained also a treasury in which the Athenians
+deposited the immense treasures and spoils taken from their enemies. In
+the course of centuries, however, the growing wealth and power of Athens
+incurred the jealousy and wrath of other nations. The city was conquered
+and ravaged many times. The Persians ingloriously failed in their
+attempt, but the Romans, victorious under Nero, despoiled this temple
+and carried away hundreds of bronze statues and works of art to grace
+the Emperor's triumphal entry into Rome. Other Roman conquerors,
+following Nero's example, exhibited to the applauding multitudes in the
+streets of Rome long trains of spoils, consisting of the rarest
+paintings, ornaments, and bronzes torn from the Parthenon. Goths,
+Normans, Franks, Venetians, and Vandals successively plundered the city,
+stripping away the decorations of gold and silver from columns and
+walls, and breaking from their foundations the statues that adorned the
+plateau of the Acropolis. The Turks carried off shiploads of marble and
+bronzes to Constantinople. England also enriched the British Museum with
+many choice marbles from the Acropolis--to preserve them, Lord Elgin
+explained."
+
+[Illustration: A SHELL DESCENDED INTO THE PARTHENON, THE PRIDE OF
+CENTURIES LAY SHATTERED.]
+
+The professor paused for a moment and his hearers made use of the time
+to express some very decided opinions with reference to Lord Elgin.
+
+"But the culminating disaster to the Parthenon occurred in the year
+1687," continued the professor, resuming his story with as much sadness
+in his voice as if the disaster had been a personal loss. "Greece was
+then under the rule of the Sultan, and the Parthenon was used by his
+army as a powder magazine. The Venetians at war with the Turks,
+besieging Athens, bombarded the city. A shell descended into the
+Parthenon, and in a moment's time the most magnificent architectural
+structure of ancient times, the pride of centuries, lay shattered in the
+ruins we see before us."
+
+"The Parthenon in twenty-four centuries has seen many religious
+changes. Built first as a temple of idolatry, it became under the Romans
+a Roman Catholic Cathedral, under the Greeks again a Greek Christian
+Church, and then under the Sultan's rule a Mohammedan Mosque."
+
+[Illustration: THE PREDOMINATING COLOR OF THE CITY IS YELLOW.]
+
+The professor wished to apologize for detaining us with the length of
+his explanations but he was overwhelmed with expressions of appreciation
+for his kindness.
+
+[Illustration: THE THEATRE OF BACCHUS HAS TIERS OF STONE SEATS.]
+
+"Why," said one of the tourists, "we have sailed half way around the
+world to see these ruins, and yet some of us have so neglected history
+and mythology that, we are ashamed to say, our knowledge of the history
+of Greece and the stories of its heroes is extremely limited. I am
+indeed grateful and trust that you will be patient with our ignorance."
+
+[Illustration: THE FRONT OF THE STAGE CARVED WITH GROTESQUE FIGURES.]
+
+After walking through the small museum on the Acropolis where a number
+of interesting relics are on exhibition, we lingered awhile on a little
+platform at the northeast corner of the Acropolis from which an
+excellent view of the city may be obtained. As seen from this view-point
+the predominating color of the city is yellow. The buildings erected of
+stone, and plastered or frescoed, are white, or yellow, or light pink,
+or combinations of yellow and white, and the roofs appear to be covered
+with yellow tiles. Below us to the right we saw the ruined columns of
+the Temple of Jupiter, and the white palace and the royal gardens of the
+king. Across the valley beyond the city we could see the prominent steep
+rock named Lycabettus with the chapel of St. George on the summit, and
+ten miles away we could make out dimly Mt. Pentelicus, from which all
+the white marble for the temples was quarried, and Mt. Hymettus, in a
+region noted for the excellent quality of its honey.
+
+Descending from the heights of the Acropolis we entered the ruins of the
+Odeon of Herodus Atticus which lay at the base of the Acropolis. This
+theatre had a stone floor, a stone stage, and tiers of stone seats
+capable of seating an audience of six thousand, and was covered with a
+cedar roof. Now the roof is completely gone and the seats are in partial
+ruin. Beyond this smaller theatre are the ruins of a larger one called
+the Theatre of Bacchus. Here the masterpieces of Eschylus, Sophocles,
+Euripides, and Aristophanes, in the golden days of Grecian glory, gave
+delight to great audiences. This theatre, accommodating thirty thousand
+spectators, contained a semi-circle of marble seats built up against the
+cliff of the Acropolis, and was open to the sky. The large stage was
+built of marble and the front of it was carved with grotesque figures.
+The lower tiers of seats nearest the stage were marble chairs reserved
+for priests and other dignitaries. The names of the men who occupied the
+chairs were carved in the marble, and some of these names are yet
+visible. While resting for a short time in these official chairs, we
+tried to imagine that we were viewing on the marble stage the
+performance of an old Greek tragedy by actors in the graceful flowing
+robes of those ancient times. A few minutes later we were grouped at the
+side of the columns which are all that remain of the glory of the Temple
+of Jupiter.
+
+[Illustration: WE DROVE AROUND THE ROYAL GARDENS.]
+
+The professor, responding to our request for information, said: "The
+Olympieum was the Temple erected in honor of Zeus, the supreme deity of
+the Greeks. As the Roman name for the supreme deity was Jupiter or Jove,
+the temple was called the Temple of Zeus by the Greeks, and the Temple
+of Jupiter by the Romans. The Athenians began the construction of the
+edifice two centuries before the birth of Christ, but the work was
+interrupted by wars and lack of funds and remained unfinished for three
+hundred years. Then the Roman Emperor Hadrian, having conquered Greece,
+completed the work and claimed for himself all the honor and glory for
+the erection of the temple. The Temple of Zeus, next to that erected to
+Diana by the Ephesians, was the largest of the temples of antiquity. It
+was built in the Corinthian style of architecture and had a triple row
+of eight columns each at the ends, and a double row of twenty columns
+each at the sides. Now you see only these fifteen huge columns
+remaining. In the interior of the temple was a colossal statue of
+Jupiter overlaid with ivory and gold. Beside the statue of the god stood
+a companion figure of equal size representing the Emperor Hadrian. The
+grounds around the temple were filled by Hadrian with hundreds of
+statues, many of which represented himself."
+
+Carriages which had been ordered by the managers of the excursion
+awaited here to take us rapidly to other points of interest. As we
+crossed a bridge over a little stream on our way to the Stadium, the
+guide said: "This river appears small, perhaps, in your eyes, but it is
+great in the history and legends of Greece. It is the river Ilissus."
+
+"The Stadium," said the professor as we entered the structure, "is the
+immense athletic field of Athens. It was constructed about the year 350
+B.C. Five hundred years later the sixty tiers of seats capable of
+seating fifty thousand spectators were covered with white marble.
+Centuries afterwards in evil times athletic sports were neglected, the
+place fell into disuse, and the marble was converted into lime. In
+modern times the Stadium has been restored, perhaps not so large as
+before, and again the tiers of seats have been covered with white
+marble. In international athletic contests held in the restored Stadium,
+Americans have competed successfully for the laurel crown."
+
+[Illustration: THE TIERS OF SEATS HAVE BEEN COVERED WITH WHITE MARBLE.]
+
+Leaving the Stadium, we drove around the Royal Gardens through streets
+shaded by graceful pepper trees, caught glimpses of palms, orange, and
+ornamental trees within the gardens, and stopped a few minutes in front
+of the extensive white marble palace of the king. As we passed through
+the residential portion of the city we were impressed with the
+cleanliness of the well swept streets and with the purity of the soft
+creamy yellow and pink colorings of the buildings. Fortunately we saw no
+great manufacturing establishments belching forth volumes of blackening
+smoke to soil these delicate shades.
+
+We halted before the University, a majestic building occupying a block
+on a wide boulevard, and before the Academy of Science, another large
+white marble edifice adjoining the University, a building much more
+elaborate than its neighbor, with Ionic porticoes, a facade enlivened by
+bright coloring and gilding, and pediments adorned with statues.
+
+[Illustration: GREEK CHILDREN WERE GROUPED AROUND A PUNCH AND JUDY
+SHOW.]
+
+"What odd-looking costumes those men wear. They look like ballet girls
+arrayed for the stage," said one of the ladies in our carriage, pointing
+to a group on the sidewalk. The men wore tights, low shoes with pompons
+on the toes, black garters with tassels, blue jackets ornamented with
+many brass buttons, red skull caps with large black tassels, and very
+full skirts. The guide said that these men were soldiers of the king's
+guard and though their uniforms might appear peculiar to our eyes they
+did not seem more strange than the tartans of Scotch Highlanders were to
+the Greeks. The king's guard, he told us, is composed of men from the
+mountain regions of Greece, who dress in the ancient military costume of
+that section. The uniforms of the regular Greek soldiers are very
+similar to those worn by the soldiers of our own country. The officers
+we met were handsome men and especially well uniformed. The well-to-do
+and middle class Athenian people whom we saw on the streets were dressed
+in modern English style.
+
+[Illustration: BEFORE THE UNIVERSITY, A MAJESTIC BUILDING.]
+
+The National Archæological Museum has a valuable collection of
+antiquities that would require much time for examination. Perhaps the
+most interesting to us were the old tombs from Mycenæ with their
+resurrected contents of skeletons, gold masques, ornaments, and weapons;
+the reduced copy of the gold and ivory statue of Athena Parthenos; the
+marble figure of a man in stooping position lately found in the sea; the
+statue of the god Hermes; and the large and beautiful vases recovered
+from the excavations. On the vases scenes of ancient Greek life or
+legend were represented.
+
+"It was a pastoral scene of love-making carved on a Grecian vase that
+inspired the poet Keats to write his noted poem, 'Ode on a Grecian
+Urn,'" said one of our friends. "Let me tell you my favorite stanza,"
+and, with an eloquence that brought out their meaning, she repeated the
+beautiful lines:
+
+    Heard melodies are sweet, but those unheard
+      Are sweeter; therefore, ye soft pipes, play on;
+    Not to the sensual ear, but, more endear'd,
+      Pipe to the spirit ditties of no tone:
+    Fair youth, beneath the trees, thou canst not leave
+      Thy song, nor ever can those trees be bare;
+    Bold lover, never, never canst thou kiss,
+      Though winning near the goal--yet, do not grieve;
+    She cannot fade, though thou hast not thy bliss,
+      Forever wilt thou love, and she be fair!
+
+On both days while in Athens we lunched at one of the hotels facing
+Constitution Square and ate of the delicious honey from Mt. Hymettus,
+returning to the Moltke in the harbor in time to have a late dinner and
+to spend the night. In the public park in front of the hotel the trees
+were laden with oranges. Beyond the park through the green foliage could
+be seen the white palace of the king.
+
+While rambling through the streets we saw a funeral procession. First
+came many banners and symbols of the Greek Church, carried by church
+officials; then followed the casket borne by men, the casket open and
+the pale face of the dead exposed to the gaze of the onlookers; a man
+came next carrying the lid of the coffin filled with flowers; then
+priests in black robes, men and women in black, and girls in white
+holding wreaths and flowers. The people along the way removed their hats
+and crossed themselves, muttering prayers as the procession passed by.
+
+The modern religion of Greece is that of the Greek church, a religion of
+many ceremonies. The priests, long-haired, heavy-bearded men, wear long
+flowing black robes and black hats resembling our silk dress hats turned
+upside down with the brim at the top. They, the guide informed us, are
+men of influence; their hands are kissed by their people; their advice
+is sought, and their opinions received with deference by the members of
+their church.
+
+The stores for the sale of candles to be burned on ceremonial occasions
+made an interesting display. There were candles of all sizes, ranging
+from six feet in height, beautifully decorated, which only the wealthy
+could afford, down to the small unadorned dip that the smallest coin
+might purchase.
+
+"These candles," said the guide while we were pricing some of the
+decorated ones, "are used for the rejoicings at baptisms, at the
+festivities on wedding occasions, and for lightening the gloom around
+the caskets of the dead. They are given as penance to the church, or as
+votive offerings to brighten the altars of the Virgin or patron saints."
+
+Eikons, the sacred memorials which the Greek Christians hang in their
+homes, representing the Virgin Mary holding the infant Christ in her
+arms, were also for sale in great numbers. Some of these were merely
+painted boards or silvered or gilded metal; others were of expensive
+material, incrusted with jewels. In all the Eikons, either cheap or
+dear, the painted faces and heads of the Virgin and child were visible
+through openings in the metal or board.
+
+"At Easter time," said one of the dealers in ecclesiastical wares, "we
+sell thousands of candles for the great midnight celebration of the
+lighting of the candles. Just as the Easter day is ushered in, the
+Patriarch from his platform makes the announcement, 'Christ is risen.'
+The people repeat it over and over, the candles are lighted, then raised
+and lowered three times in honor of the Trinity, and we return to our
+homes to break the three days' fast by a feast of rejoicing."
+
+[Illustration: AND BLUE JACKET ORNAMENTED WITH MANY BRASS BUTTONS.]
+
+When returning from the wharf to the steamer in the evening some of the
+tourists were conveyed in a tug and others in row boats. The oarsmen to
+save the labor of rowing cast their lines to the tug and the dancing of
+the little boats on the waves as they were drawn swiftly down the bay in
+the wake of the larger craft caused some anxiety on the part of the more
+timid of the occupants.
+
+[Illustration: SOME IN A TUG AND OTHERS IN ROWBOATS.]
+
+On the evening of Tuesday, the twenty-fourth of February, just as the
+silver-toned bells on the Russian warships were telling the hour of
+five, the anchor of the Moltke was drawn up and the vessel almost
+imperceptibly moved around and headed for the narrow outlet between the
+breakwaters. As we slowly steamed away from the Russian vessels, our
+band played the Russian national hymn and the Russian flag was elevated
+to the top of the Moltke's mast in a farewell salutation. Immediately
+the crowds of Russian sailors on the warships removed their hats and
+remained bareheaded until the music ceased. Then, in response, the
+Russian band played our national hymn, and as we sailed away, the
+strains of the music became fainter and fainter until they died away in
+the distance.
+
+Looking backward after leaving the harbor we saw clearly defined, in the
+golden evening light, the towering Acropolis and the Parthenon crowning
+its summit, and, as we sailed away from the city which was once the
+centre of culture, refinement, and wealth, we tried to recall the
+stories of her glorious past. The figures of legend, myth, and
+history,--mighty warriors, celebrated heroes, eloquent orators,
+illustrious painters, renowned architects, great historians, immortal
+poets, and wonderful deities; Spartan mothers, Thermopylæ defenders, and
+Persian invaders; beautiful Helen, muscular Hercules, crusty Diogenes,
+deformed Æsop, silver-tongued Demosthenes, fleet-footed Mercury, drunken
+Silenus, stately Juno, and lovely Venus,--a confused procession of
+mortals and immortals rushed across the brain.
+
+"Look," said the professor with note book in hand interrupting our
+dreams of the past, "that strait to the left behind us is the entrance
+to the bay of Salamis where the Persian fleet of one thousand sail
+encountered the smaller fleet of only three hundred Grecian vessels in
+the year 480 B.C. The rocky brow of the hill on the farther side of the
+strait is the place where the haughty Xerxes sat in his silver-footed
+chair to gloat over the expected annihilation of Greek power. I want to
+read to you, before we go to our evening meal, the vivid description of
+the conflict from the tragedy of 'The Persians.' It was written by the
+poet Eschylus, who himself was one of the heroes in the fight."
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII.
+
+CONSTANTINOPLE AND SANTA SOPHIA.
+
+
+On Wednesday morning, February twenty-fifth, the ladies donned winter
+wraps and the gentlemen heavy overcoats for their morning promenades on
+deck. All night the Moltke had steamed northward and the region of palms
+and orange trees had been left behind. By referring to the large atlas
+of the world in the library, we found that we were in the same latitude
+as that of New York City.
+
+As we approached the entrance to the Strait of Dardanelles, the ancient
+Hellespont, which connects the Ægean Sea with the Sea of Marmora, the
+Turkish fortifications crowning the hills on both sides of the channel
+were plainly visible. Under the great guns of the fortresses the Moltke
+anchored.
+
+"Why do we stop here?" inquired one of the tourists of the surgeon, who
+was standing near watching the shore.
+
+"This is the quarantine station," replied the doctor, "and we must wait
+here for the official inspection. According to Turkish regulations, the
+passage of foreign warships through the Dardanelles is absolutely
+prohibited at any time and merchant vessels are not allowed to enter
+during the night. Every vessel arriving here must undergo inspection
+before receiving a permit to proceed. The Sultan guards this gateway to
+the most vulnerable part of his dominion, not only to prevent the
+entrance of a hostile fleet, but to protect his people from the
+incursions of that insidious foe, the plague, which sometimes ravages
+the Eastern countries. There come the officials now in response to our
+signals," he added as a yacht steamed out from the shore. "I must go
+with the captain to welcome them at the head of the gangway."
+
+[Illustration: I. WITHIN SIGHT OF DOMES AND MINARETS.]
+
+[Illustration: II. FAMOUS ST. SOPHIA HAS FOUR MINARETS.]
+
+The Turkish quarantine physician in red fez and handsome fur overcoat,
+accompanied by his assistants and the inspector, came on board. Madam
+Rumor whispers that a good sized tip sometimes obviates tedious personal
+examinations and insures prompt issuance of a clean bill of health
+without exasperating delays. However it was, the quarantine physician,
+after consulting with the ship physician, quickly found the health
+conditions satisfactory, and the inspector of cargoes granted his
+permit. The pilot who was to guide the vessel through the swiftly
+flowing current of the Hellespont joined us here, and with him came the
+dragoman or chief guide who had been engaged by the managers to take
+special charge of the sight-seeing excursions of our party while in
+Constantinople.
+
+Proceeding slowly on our way, we noticed half a dozen Turkish warships
+lying in the stream near by. One who claimed to know said that the
+Turkish naval vessels had been gathering barnacles and mussels for four
+years and were unfit for active service. But the fortresses guarding the
+strait, he said, were in excellent condition and well equipped with
+batteries of modern make.
+
+The Strait of Dardanelles, for a distance of forty miles separating the
+continent of Asia from that of Europe, varies in width, narrowing to
+less than one mile at some places and broadening out to four miles at
+others. By referring to the steamer's atlas, consulting guide books,
+exchanging historical knowledge, and questioning good-natured officials,
+the tourists obtained information about the various points of interest
+that they were passing. Beyond the entrance, at the narrowest point of
+the strait, the place was pointed out where the Persian king Xerxes with
+his vast army crossed the channel on a bridge of boats for the invasion
+of Europe in the year 480 B.C.
+
+"Little then," remarked a tourist, "did that imperious invader dream
+that within a year, in humiliation and defeat, and with only a poor
+remnant of that great army, he would recross that strait to Asia again."
+
+At the same place in the channel, we were informed, Alexander the Great
+with his Greek legions crossed from Europe in the year 334 B.C. and
+continued his victorious march until all the then known portion of Asia
+was subdued to his rule.
+
+"Then," said another tourist, "when flushed with victory, he wept for
+other worlds to conquer. To me the saddest part of Alexander's history
+is that he was himself conquered by his own appetite and never returned
+to his native shore."
+
+Another tragic tale connected with that place is the story of Hero and
+Leander. Across that mile of swiftly flowing current, the story says,
+Leander nightly swam from Abydos to the tower on the opposite shore to
+visit his beloved Hero, the priestess of Venus. In one of his nightly
+excursions the swimmer was drowned in a storm, and Hero, after hearing
+of Leander's death, despairingly threw herself into the sea to share his
+sad fate.
+
+"There is the height from which Hero cast herself," said an official,
+"and this is the place where Lord Byron, in emulation of Leander,
+performed the same difficult feat of swimming the channel."
+
+To the right, on the Asian shore not far away, was the plain of Troy
+where Dr. Schlieman won fame by making the excavations and discoveries
+which led to the location of the lost city of Troy. In this ancient city
+of Troy, according to Homer, the beautiful Grecian princess Helen,
+abducted by Paris, the son of the King of Troy, was detained for ten
+years. The enraged Greeks under Ulysses and Ajax, seeking to rescue the
+princess, besieged the city and finally succeeded in entering its gates
+and accomplishing their purpose by means of the stratagem of a huge
+wooden horse.
+
+After sailing through the length of the Sea of Marmora, about one
+hundred and ten miles, we arrived at five o'clock in the evening within
+sight of the domes and minarets that crown the promontory at the
+entrance to the Strait of Bosporus. From the time we caught our first
+glimpse of a distant minaret, until the anchor of our steamer was
+dropped in the channel, every tourist was intent on the picturesque
+views which presented themselves. While the Moltke was steadily moving
+onward and our point of view continually changing, the dragoman at
+intervals pointed out the various places of interest, now on one side,
+now on the other.
+
+[Illustration: IS CALLED SERAGLIO POINT.]
+
+"The Strait of Bosporus, which we are now approaching, is here a little
+over a mile in width," said he. "The part of the city you see on the
+headland on the north shore of the Strait is the oldest part of
+Constantinople, and is called Stamboul. It is occupied principally by
+Turks, Greeks, Armenians, and Jews. The most celebrated mosques, and
+also the great bazaars in which tourists delight to wander, are in
+Stamboul."
+
+"That dome with six minarets surrounding it, partially hidden by the
+intervening trees and buildings, is the Mosque of Ahmed, one of the most
+interesting in the city. Beyond it you can see the dome and four
+minarets of the more famous St. Sophia. The name of this is probably
+familiar to you, for almost every visitor whom I have escorted has told
+me that he had heard of the Mosque of St. Sophia."
+
+"And that is Scutari," he continued, calling our attention to the city
+on the Asiatic shore of the strait. "The great square yellow building so
+prominent on that side is the military barracks. The large structure
+nearer us is the military hospital where the English lady nursed the
+soldiers during the war with Russia fifty years ago. Perhaps you have
+heard of the lady?"
+
+We informed the dragoman that the noble work of Florence Nightingale
+during the Crimean war was well known to the American people, and her
+name held in high honor by them.
+
+"The point beyond us on the left," said the guide a few minutes later,
+"is called Seraglio Point. The portion of the city on the promontory,
+extending along the Bosporus, is about one mile in length and half a
+mile in width and is called the Seraglio. In these extensive grounds
+are the well guarded Treasury buildings containing the accumulated
+treasures of centuries, the Imperial Museum of Antiquities, and many
+other public edifices. There also are the palaces, kiosks, and gardens,
+which were occupied by the Sultans and their families until the present
+Sultan changed his residence to another part of the city.
+
+"The stream of water to our left," he added as our steamer rounded
+Seraglio Point, "is called the Golden Horn, so named on account of its
+curved shape. This inlet of the Bosporus, not over one-third of a mile
+in width, separates the older Stamboul from old Galata and newer Pera.
+Over the two bridges across this inlet streams of people pass
+constantly. Galata is the business section of the city which includes
+the wharves, steamship offices, and wholesale establishments. Pera,
+situated on the heights above Galata, contains the residences of the
+wealthier class, as well as hotels, modern stores, and the residences of
+the ambassadors and consuls."
+
+After passing the mouth of the Golden Horn, the Moltke slackened speed
+and anchored in the Bosporus apposite Galata, a little way from the
+shore. Prominent on the shore at the water's edge, not far from our
+anchorage, stood a small but beautiful white mosque with delicate
+minarets, and just beyond it a snow white palace of magnificent size.
+
+"The white marble building that you see extending for some distance
+along the Bosporus," said the guide, "is the Dolmah Bagcheh Palace of
+the Sultan, one of the magnificent palaces which he does not occupy.
+Once or twice a year he holds a reception there. In the distance along
+the water is the Cheraghan Palace where the imprisoned ex-Sultan Murad,
+the elder brother of the present Sultan, for many years had every luxury
+but liberty. And on the heights just beyond those grounds is Yildiz
+Kiosk, the palace where now lives the present ruler of Turkey, his
+Imperial Majesty, Sultan Abdul Hamid. Strangers are not permitted to
+enter its gates, but we have obtained his Imperial Majesty's permission
+to take your party through the Dolmah Bagcheh Palace."
+
+[Illustration: THE BREAD DEALERS CONSENTED TO BE KODAKED.]
+
+Our steamer had barely anchored when a steam yacht flying the emblem of
+Turkey, a red flag with a white crescent and star, appeared alongside.
+Several red-fezzed Turkish officials, on whose green frock coats dangled
+medals and badges, mounted the stairway to receive the report of the
+vessel and examine and visé the passports of the passengers. The
+stewards collected the passports and handed them to the Sultan's
+officers, who afterwards returned them stamped in queer-looking
+characters with the official seal of the Turkish government.
+
+"Captain, can you not send us ashore?" requested some of the tourists
+after the evening dinner was over.
+
+"I would gladly send you ashore if I considered it safe for you to go,"
+replied the Captain, "but I advise you to remain on board. There is
+little to be seen after sunset in this unlighted city. Although the
+principal streets are lighted with gas, many of the streets depend upon
+the moon and stars and so on cloudy nights are left in utter darkness.
+Strangers may with safety wander around the city during the day, but it
+is dangerous for them to do so at night. The lower part of the city
+along the wharves is infested with thieves who have little regard for
+the life of an infidel, and who under cover of darkness would cut one's
+throat and cast the body into the stream in order to secure a few
+valuables."
+
+The Captain's advice was taken and the evening was delightfully spent on
+the vessel. The American Consul and his wife came on board to meet some
+friends and to welcome all the Americans. Then, according to a plan
+which had been made by the managers of the tour, a resident of the city
+delivered an instructive address on the history of Constantinople. The
+lecturer told of Constantine the Great, first Christian emperor and
+founder of the city; of Justinian, the imperial legislator and builder,
+and his empress Theodora, the beautiful comedian who became a queen; of
+the heroic warrior Belisarius and his emperor's ingratitude; of the
+Greek girl Irene who rose to supreme power; of the bloody religious
+riots and theological disputes; of the Nicene Council and adoption of
+the Nicene creed; and of the pillage of Constantinople by the ruthless
+Crusaders. He told also of the marriage ceremonies, of the art and
+commerce, and of the places of interest about the city. His remarks
+about the former trade and literature of the city were most interesting.
+
+"During the earlier centuries of the Eastern Roman Empire," said the
+lecturer, "Constantinople, the capital, was a great centre of trade, an
+exchange market for the products of the world. Caravans brought the
+treasures of the East to the storehouses here to be bartered for the
+cargoes of produce which came in ships from the West. This exchange
+brought wealth and prosperity to the city. In later centuries the
+Venetians and Genoese succeeded in transferring much of this business to
+Venice and Genoa and the trade of Constantinople declined. In modern
+days steamships and the Suez canal have completely changed the route of
+commerce.
+
+"Constantinople, not only was a centre of trade, but in the Twelfth and
+Thirteenth centuries it was the centre of literature. During the dark
+ages, when the study of literature was generally neglected in other
+places, the lamp of learning burned brightly in this city. Libraries
+were established and manuscripts accumulated; but at the time of the
+Turkish invasion a multitude of the most valuable documents were
+destroyed. When the Renaissance brought new life to the western shores,
+the centre of literature moved to Italy, and printed books took the
+place of manuscripts."
+
+[Illustration: OUR CARRIAGES RATTLED OVER THE PLANK BRIDGE.]
+
+When we thought of the present standing of Turkey among the nations of
+the world, it was difficult to realize that for centuries Constantinople
+was the commercial centre and the brilliant capital of the world. It was
+even more difficult to realize that the country which now prohibits the
+importation of foreign books and papers was at one time the patron of
+art, literature, and learning, the collector of great libraries of
+illuminated manuscripts, theological discourses, and legal documents.
+But that was centuries ago.
+
+Thursday morning ushered in a bright, clear, cool day. We were up early,
+eager for sight-seeing, and little boats soon carried us to the custom
+house pier on the Galata side. Open carriages drawn by wiry Turkish
+horses and driven by Turkish drivers were there in readiness to carry us
+across the Golden Horn to explore the sights of Stamboul. As our
+carriages rattled over the plank pontoon bridge with its drawbridge in
+the center, we passed through a crowd of people more varied as to
+nationality and costume than can be seen at almost any other place on
+the globe. The Turks, of course, predominated, their nationality being
+indicated by the national head-gear,--the red fez. The wealthier Turks
+wore the English style of clothing and the red fez. The costumes of the
+other classes varied according to their occupation. On the bridge as
+our driver guided his team through the throng, we saw Turkish soldiers
+in blue uniforms and red fez; Moslems wearing a green sash around the
+fez to indicate that they had performed a pilgrimage to Mecca;
+stately-looking bearded Greek priests in black robes and peculiar hats;
+Nubians with black glistening skins and tattooed faces; Moslem priests
+with pure white turbans, and Moslem priests with high green turbans;
+Russian or Hungarian peasants with coats of sheep skin, the fleecy sides
+of which were turned inward; Dervishes in brown mantles, and high-coned
+brown hats without brims; Hebrews in long yellow coats and little curls
+at the sides of their heads; Turks in gold embroidered trousers and
+jackets and long flowing blue sleeves; Turkish women with faces closely
+veiled, and negro women who concealed their features behind white veils
+in the same manner as the Turkish women.
+
+[Illustration: A STRUCTURE DIFFERING IN DESIGN FROM ANY OTHER CHRISTIAN
+TEMPLE.]
+
+"Those cakes looked so good, I was almost tempted to take one off the
+tray," said one of the occupants of our carriage, as a peddler carrying
+on his head a table filled with cakes and pastry passed so closely that
+his wares were within reach.
+
+"Oh, how could you think of doing such a thing," hastily exclaimed her
+companion, horrified at the thought, "we should all be placed in a
+dungeon and our pleasure ended."
+
+Peddlers of dates, bearing their stock of fruit in huge baskets on their
+backs and carrying scales in one hand, held up a sample of dates towards
+us with the other hand; dealers in nuts in the same manner carried and
+offered their wares to the passers-by; peddlers of "Turkish delight" and
+other sweetmeats arranged the candies on their trays in an attractive
+manner; and the sherbet sellers called attention to the pink liquid in
+large glass bottles suspended on their backs. At each end of the bridge
+were half a dozen toll collectors in long white overshirts who stood in
+line across the way collecting the toll of ten paras, or one cent, from
+each person that crossed.
+
+"How clearly that dome and the two minarets stand out against the
+sky," exclaimed one of the party, pointing to a great dome and two
+delicate minarets with tapering peaks which rose above the buildings
+directly in front of us on the other side of the bridge.
+
+[Illustration: THIS STREAM FLOWING INTO THE BOSPORUS IS CALLED THE
+GOLDEN HORN.]
+
+"That is the Mosque where the Sultans and their families went to prayer
+when they resided in the Seraglio near by. We will not stop at this
+Mosque but will go directly to the Mosque of St. Sophia."
+
+"Professor," said the lady who in Athens had confessed her ignorance of
+history, "please give us some information about the church of St. Sophia
+while we are grouped here together in front of the building."
+
+The professor expressed his willingness to do so, provided we were
+willing to take the time to listen.
+
+"In the year 532 A.D.," said he, "Justinian, the Emperor of the Eastern
+Roman Empire, decided to erect in Constantinople a church that should be
+a glory to the city and an honor to his name. His desire was to build
+one 'such as since Adam has never been seen,' a structure differing in
+design from any Christian temple previously constructed and surpassing
+in magnificence any temple that afterwards might be built. The empire
+was then at the height of its power and glory, and Justinian, in
+emulation of Solomon, made demands on all the countries under his
+dominion for contributions of ivory, cedar, gold, silver, precious
+stones, and the rarest marbles.
+
+"In order to attain his ambitious design, the monarch robbed the Temple
+of the Sun at Baalbek of columns of porphyry, despoiled the Temple of
+Diana of Ephesus of its finest pillars, took columns of pure white
+marble from the Temple of Minerva at Athens, and divested the shrines
+of Isis and Osiris in Egypt of their choicest granite columns. He called
+upon the quarries of Italy, Greece, and the Ægean Isles for marbles of
+every hue produced by them, so that, when completed, the temple should
+contain the most beautiful marbles the world could yield, and these he
+ordered to be highly polished and artistically arranged. To hasten the
+construction, ten thousand workmen under the direction of one hundred
+architects were employed, and in less than six years the immense
+structure, 'the great Church of Santa Sophia, or Heavenly Wisdom,' one
+of the most famous churches of the world, was ready for dedication.
+
+"The great altar was built of silver and gold, the seven chairs of the
+bishops were plated with silver, the crosses and crucifixes were
+composed of pure gold, and the altar cloth and vestments were encrusted
+with precious stones. Jeweled images of saints, sacred paintings of
+fabulous value, and holy relics to be adored by kneeling worshipers,
+were arranged around the walls of the building. The huge doors of the
+temple were made of cedar, ivory, amber, and silver; the ceiling
+glistened with golden mosaics; the walls shone with polished marbles:
+and the capitals of the columns were laced with delicate carvings inset
+with mother-of-pearl, silver, and precious stones.
+
+"On the day of the dedication of the temple a jubilant procession of
+patriarchs, bishops, priests, and people, in admiring wonder, entered
+the completed building with songs and rejoicings. The Emperor, at the
+head of the procession, overcome with pride and joy in the glorious
+consummation of his purpose, threw himself upon the floor and
+exultingly exclaimed: 'Glory to God who has deemed me worthy to
+accomplish so great a work. O Solomon, I have surpassed thee!'
+
+"In this sanctuary for over nine centuries the people worshiped God
+according to the Christian faith in great pomp and with much ceremony.
+The bishops officiated at the golden altar reading from golden lettered
+manuscripts, and were assisted in the service by scores of richly robed
+priests and hundreds of selected musicians, while the air was filled
+with the fragrance of rising incense. But during the latter part of the
+Middle Ages while the power and glory of the Roman Empire was gradually
+declining, the rival Mohammedan Turkish Empire in Asia was rapidly
+ascending to a dominant position. Finally, in the year 1453 A.D., the
+Sultan of Asiatic Turkey, Muhammed II, determined to obtain possession
+of Constantinople and make the city the capital of his empire. His army
+besieged the decadent city and captured it after a struggle of
+fifty-three days. When the Turkish troops entered in triumph they tore
+the emblems of Christianity from their places and, instead of the cross
+of the Christian, they raised the crescent of the Moslem.
+
+"In the church of St. Sophia the conquerors tore down the golden altar,
+melted the silver plates, removed the images of saints, painted over the
+sacred pictures, and took away the jewels and precious stones, changing
+the interior to suit the simpler worship of the followers of Mahomet.
+The name of the building was changed and it was thereafter known as the
+Mosque of Saint Sophia. For four hundred and fifty years the Mosque has
+been in possession of the Turks. Its doors are open at all times for
+Moslems to enter freely; but the entrance is carefully guarded to keep
+Christian or foreign visitors from intruding. The latter, however, may
+gain admission by paying an entrance fee of forty cents, and removing
+their shoes at the door or lacing over their shoes the loose slippers
+that are provided for this purpose."
+
+[Illustration: THREE MEN RAISED THE BURDEN TO HIS SHOULDERS.]
+
+On the porch of the Mosque we put our feet into the loose slippers, a
+Moslem attendant tied them on as carefully as the clumsy things could be
+tied, and then, accompanied by him, we entered the building. The immense
+floor, an acre in size, was covered with handsome heavy rugs. As we
+slid, rather than walked, over the soft Turkish carpets, our turbaned
+guide, with sharp, piercing, black eyes, watched carefully to see that
+our slippers did not become unfastened and drop off, and our infidel
+shoes profane the holy enclosure. And when one of the visitors laughed
+within the sacred edifice, the attendant's black eyes flashed with
+anger.
+
+It was not the regular hour for prayer in the mosque, but a number of
+worshipers were devoutly kneeling at different places in the interior,
+with faces turned toward a black stone in the south wall, which
+indicated the direction of the holy city of Mecca. Others, squatting on
+their bare heels, were reading or reciting in monotonous tones parts of
+the Koran. There are no benches or chairs in the building; Moslem
+worshipers do not require seats while at their devotions. The great
+dome, over one hundred feet in width, rises in grandeur one hundred and
+eighty feet overhead, supported by four huge columns each seventy feet
+in circumference. A circle of windows, forty-four in number, around the
+dome illumines the golden mosaics which cover the ceiling. A mosaic
+picture in the dome representing the Almighty, has been obliterated by
+the Turks and covered with green linen cloth. A verse from the Koran, in
+gilt Arabic characters almost thirty feet long, is painted on this
+cloth. The sentence, as translated, begins: "God is the light of
+heaven and earth," and ends, "God alone sheddeth His light on whomsoever
+He pleaseth."
+
+[Illustration: THROUGH THE NARROW STREETS OF THE CITY.]
+
+"If the Moslems believe in the Bible and in God as a supreme being, why
+did they destroy the mosaic representation of God on the ceiling?"
+inquired one of the visitors.
+
+"The Moslems do believe in the Bible and in one Supreme God," was the
+reply, "and it was this very belief that led them to paint out the
+picture of God and to destroy all the images and paintings of saints;
+for God's command is: 'Thou shalt not make unto thee any graven image,
+or any likeness of anything that is in the heaven above, or that is in
+the earth beneath, or that is in the water under the earth. Thou shalt
+not bow down thyself to them.'"
+
+"The Moslems," continued the guide, "regard Mahomet as the Prophet of
+God, and the Koran as written by him under the inspiration of God; but
+they do not worship Mahomet or any image or picture of him."
+
+We paused to admire the four green marble columns taken from the Temple
+of Diana, and the polished shafts brought from the Temple of the Sun,
+relics of those two magnificent cities, Ephesus and Baalbek, of whose
+grandeur nothing now remains but broken stones. We gazed upward at the
+eight immense green shields covered with Arabic characters, high above
+our heads on the walls. But we doubted the miraculous healing power of a
+small hole that is always damp in a bronze-covered pillar, and hesitated
+also to accept the tradition that the apparent imprint of a bloody hand
+in the marble wall was made by the Sultan Muhammed II when he rode into
+St. Sophia after the capture of the city.
+
+"On Fridays," said the guide, as we stood at the foot of the marble
+steps that led to the elevated pulpit, "the priest, clad in a long red
+robe, reads a prayer for the Sultan, and, while doing so, holds in one
+hand the Koran and in the other a drawn sword to indicate that this
+temple was captured from the Christians by force."
+
+"That prayer rug," he continued pointing to a beautiful carpet hanging
+on the wall near by, "was the personal prayer rug of the great conqueror
+Muhammed II. There is so much more to be seen," he added, "that we could
+spend the whole day here, but the dragoman is beckoning and we must go
+on."
+
+We shook the slippers from our feet in the porch and were driven through
+narrow streets to the Grand Bazaar.
+
+"The Grand Bazaar," said the guide, "covers several acres. It has one
+hundred entrances. There are twelve hundred narrow streets or passages
+under roof within the bazaar and on these streets are four thousand
+little shops."
+
+The Grand Bazaar, we decided, was the enormous department store of
+Stamboul; but we noticed that each little shop had its own proprietor.
+To many of the visitors, this Bazaar was the most interesting place in
+Constantinople; for here were found the most tempting bargains in
+Oriental wares, in its narrow passages were seen the native people in
+their most picturesque costumes, and in its maze of dimly lighted
+corridors some tourists were lost for awhile and met with novel
+adventures.
+
+The store of Far-Away-Moses was one of the largest and most popular of
+the shops in the Bazaar and that genial trader did a thriving business.
+There seemed to be a magnetic power that drew the guides in the
+direction of certain shops, an unseen influence that urged them to
+recommend certain places, and one of these places was Moses' emporium.
+Some of the ladies found that when they slipped away and entered a shop
+without a guide a better bargain could be secured.
+
+The price named for articles in the bazaar shops by the fezzed or
+turbaned dealers was generally three times the price that they would
+accept before losing a sale; but much tact was required on the part of
+the purchaser, and much valuable time was occupied in the diplomatic
+struggles between the acute Yankees and clever Moslems. When, however,
+the battle was won and the desired article secured at one-half or
+one-third the price at first demanded, the joy of the purchaser was
+doubled. The person, who, after an hour's dickering, bought a bronze
+ornament for twenty piasters, or one dollar of American money, was just
+as happy over the bargain as the one who succeeded in purchasing a
+magnificent silk rug for twenty thousand piasters. The money drawers of
+the Moslem traders were swollen with their contents but their shelves
+were less crowded when the Americans left the bazaar.
+
+When we returned to the vessel we found that during our absence the
+decks had been converted into a rival bazaar. The tourists who had
+failed to obtain souvenirs had another opportunity to buy them; for here
+were displayed silk rugs ranging in price from three thousand piasters
+downward, exquisite embroideries, rare silks, delicate fans, gold-laced
+shawls, fragrant attar of roses, and a multitude of articles in bronze,
+silver, and gold.
+
+"How restful it is to recline lazily in our comfortable steamer chairs
+rolled up in a rug, dreaming or talking over the events of the day,
+without any cares or worries to disturb our thoughts," remarked one of
+our friends as we sat upon the deck in the later evening hours watching
+the glimmering lights on the shore.
+
+"Yes," said another, "there seems to be nothing to disturb the serenity
+of the night; even the distant barking of the dogs appears to be in
+harmony with the soft lapping of the waves against the vessel. I feel
+that I shall rest to-night in my berth, as Shakespeare says, in a 'sleep
+that knits the ravel'd sleeve of care,' after the exertion of a full day
+of sight-seeing."
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX.
+
+THE SELAMLIK AND THE TREASURY.
+
+
+One dark night in the faraway past, so the story runs, the barking of
+dogs in the outskirts of Constantinople wakened the sleeping garrison in
+the city, warning them of the approach of a crafty foe who sought to
+surprise and capture the place. At the same time, the young moon, coming
+out from under a cloud, revealed the position of the enemy. The barking
+of the dogs and the light of the crescent moon enabled the garrison to
+frustrate the designs of their foes and save the capital from capture.
+Since then the nightly howlings of the dogs have been tolerated by the
+Turkish people and the crescent has had a place of honor on the Turkish
+banner. To kill a dog is an unpardonable offense. The dogs, however, are
+not well fed, well groomed pets, fondled, kissed, collared, and
+blanketed, as in some other countries; but are ownerless, homeless
+creatures roaming at night in great numbers through the streets and
+sleeping by day on the thoroughfares and sidewalks regardless of
+passers-by. The people step over or go around the sleeping animals and
+do not disturb them. The dogs seem to know their privileges, for they
+will not move out of the way.
+
+The city is noted for its dogs, not on account of their beauty or breed,
+for they are a disreputable lot of mongrel curs and bear the marks of
+many nightly brawls, but on account of the legions of them and their
+usefulness as scavengers. At nightfall the residents of Stamboul empty
+their garbage cans in the streets and the dogs, howling and fighting,
+dispose of every scrap before daylight. When a Turk desires to express
+the utmost contempt for a person he calls him a dog.
+
+[Illustration: THE DOG FIGHT HAD JUST ENDED.]
+
+"If you wish to avoid trouble while in this city," cautioned the
+dragoman, "neither disturb a sleeping dog in the highways,--for the dog
+will resent the interference with his slumbers,--nor call a Turk a dog,
+for the anger of a Turk thus reviled is uncontrollable until the
+offender who called him by that vilest of epithets is severely
+punished."
+
+A drive of one and a half miles along the Grand Rue de Galata, one of
+the wider thoroughfares in Galata parallel to the Bosporus, carried the
+tourists from the custom house pier to the gates of the Dolmah Bagcheh
+Palace. The entrance to the grounds of the palace is through a gateway
+of marble, beautiful in design and richly ornamented with elaborate
+Corinthian columns and delicate carvings of garlands, wreaths, and urns.
+
+While we gazed at the carvings, the officer in charge of the guard
+carefully examined our permit. Then the massive gates were swung open
+for our entrance. Within the palace we ascended a magnificent wide
+marble staircase, the balusters of which were made of clear glass. We
+admired the intricately carved alabaster bath-rooms and wondered if
+their neatness had ever been disturbed. We passed through a multitude of
+richly decorated chambers and salons where every article was arranged in
+perfect order, and walked on carpet strips laid for visitors' feet
+around the beautiful ball-room, not daring to tread on the highly
+polished hard-wood floor. Every apartment of the palace was immaculate,
+and resplendent in marble, porcelain, inlaid woods, and golden mosaics.
+The largest mirror in the world reflected the passers-by and costly
+paintings attracted the eyes of the visitors. The dark green malachite
+and the rich blue lapis lazuli harmonized pleasingly with yellow gold
+and white marble. And yet this grand show palace is unoccupied except by
+the hundreds of care-takers required to keep it in order. Its quiet is
+disturbed only by sight-seers who pay for the privilege of inspecting
+the stately apartments, and, on rare occasions, by imperial receptions
+which are held in the throne room. This immense apartment surpasses all
+the others in the elegance of its adornment. The dome overhead and the
+walls and the Corinthian columns which surround the room are richly
+decorated with oriental designs in white and gold. From the centre of
+the dome hangs a crystal chandelier noted for its size and beauty.
+
+"In this throne room," said the guide, "five thousand persons can stand.
+On the day after the close of the Fast of Ramazan, which is the first
+day of the Feast of Bairam, the Sultan drives here from Yildiz Palace,
+along a road lined with soldiers, and holds a State reception. Several
+thousand of the nobility assemble in this room and the Sultan, seated on
+that crimson and gold sofa, receives the homage of his officials. The
+generals of the army in gorgeous uniforms, the heads of the religious
+orders, holy men, and state officials approach according to their rank
+and make their obeisance to his Imperial Majesty. They reverently kiss
+the hem of his Majesty's garment, press the hem to their foreheads as a
+seal of their declaration of loyalty to his person, and then retire
+backward from his presence. During the reception every face in the
+assembly is turned toward the Sultan. To turn one's back to his Majesty,
+even for a moment, is unpardonable. That day after Ramazan is a great
+day in the city; cannons thunder, the bands play, the mosques are
+illuminated at night, and the people feast and rejoice."
+
+[Illustration: A TEAM OF GREAT HORNED OXEN.]
+
+"What is the Fast of Ramazan and when does it occur?"
+
+"The Fast of Ramazan," replied the guide, "is kept through the whole
+month of Ramazan, which corresponds to your month of September. For
+thirty days the Moslems do not eat bread nor drink water during the
+hours between sunrise and sunset. After sunset they may refresh
+themselves. The Prophet commanded that one specially named day in the
+month of Ramazan should be kept as a fast day; but the date of that
+particular day was somehow lost, and now, in order to make sure of
+keeping the fast on the day appointed, the Moslems keep every day in
+that month as a fast day. The Feast of Bairam immediately follows the
+end of the fasting. This festival consists of three days of feasting and
+festivities."
+
+Friday is the Mohammedan Sabbath, but we could not see that it made much
+difference in the traffic of the city. We asked the guide if the Turkish
+bazaars would be closed.
+
+"No," he replied, "but more of the faithful attend mosque on Friday than
+on other days, and on Friday each week the Sultan goes to his special
+mosque with great ceremony."
+
+The Sultan's weekly visit to prayer is called the Selamlik or Sultan's
+Procession to Mosque. Our guide obtained a good position for our
+carriage in an open square near the mosque from which to see the
+procession. The parade was not to occur until one o'clock, but in order
+to secure the place we were there at eleven. The time of waiting was not
+tiresome as there was much of interest going on around us all the time.
+Carriages of other visitors assembled in the open square; cabs
+containing invited dignitaries rolled up to the ruler's palace, which
+was within sight about one block away; guards drove the crowds from the
+streets; regiments of red-fezzed infantry tramped by and formed in lines
+along the street between the palace and the mosque; mounted lancers with
+flying pennons trotted to their positions; and the bands took their
+place near the palace. Uniformed policemen and spies in plain clothes
+circulated among the carriages and sight-seers, watching closely for
+suspicious characters, and listening to remarks made by visitors. We
+were advised by our dragoman not to mention the name of the Sultan.
+
+"How the Turks do enjoy their coffee," said an occupant of our carriage,
+calling attention to a group squatting on the ground with cups in hand.
+
+Near our carriage a Turk was making coffee on a portable stove and
+selling the beverage to thirsty customers; an itinerant barber placed
+his portable stool beside our carriage wheel, opened his kit of tools
+and was soon busy lathering and shaving dusky faces; a water peddler
+with his jar on his back played a tune on tumblers by rubbing them with
+his fingers; a cake peddler's table was upset by passing dragoons and he
+mournfully picked up the fragments. The trays of the Turkish peddlers of
+candies and cakes were clean and the articles offered appeared fresh and
+appetizing. We yielded to temptation and bought some "Turkish delight"
+and some light flaky biscuit, and, after eating the dainties, wished for
+more.
+
+[Illustration: THE TIME OF WAITING WAS NOT TIRESOME.]
+
+"It is nearly one o'clock," said the guide looking at his watch.
+
+The street cleaners were hastily giving a final polish to the roadway
+over which the Sultan would drive between the lines of soldiers. A dozen
+carts filled with clean sand that had been standing near us were hurried
+up the hill and the white sand was spread over the Sultan's path. The
+bands ceased playing; the soldiers stood at attention; the Muezzin
+called to prayer; a trumpet sounded from the gates; and from the palace
+on the hill carriages emerged containing the veiled wives of the ruler
+attended by black eunuchs on horseback. A long line of military officers
+in handsome uniforms followed on foot; then a shout arose from the
+assembled troops, and a carriage appeared drawn by a very handsome pair
+of horses in gold-mounted harness. In the carriage the Sultan sat alone.
+The huzzas of the troops continued until his Majesty entered the mosque.
+Then all was silent, for the Sultan was at his prayers alone. His wives
+and his officials had been left at the entrance. No person was permitted
+to enter. The Iman, or priest in charge, and the Sultan were the only
+occupants of the mosque.
+
+Without waiting for the ruler's return the visitors hastened away, the
+carriages raising such a cloud of dust that it was difficult to see
+across the road. A hasty luncheon in a Pera restaurant followed, and
+then we turned toward Stamboul. As we drove again across the Galata
+bridge through the ever interesting throng of humanity that crowds over
+it, our attention was called to the manner in which merchandise is
+conveyed through the narrow streets of the city. Wagons are rarely
+used, but men carry the merchandise on their backs and shoulders. These
+men passed us laden with immense bales of hides, huge bundles of carpets
+and rugs, large boxes of dry-goods, great crates of fruits or
+vegetables, piles of trunks, barrels and sacks of groceries, and cans of
+oil. The ponderous burdens were heaped upon wooden frames fitted to the
+backs and strapped to the shoulders of the carriers. When the load was
+too heavy for one man to carry, it was suspended on poles and carried by
+two or more of the bearers.
+
+[Illustration: "WHAT A CONTRAST," SHE SAID.]
+
+A high wall surrounds the old Seraglio grounds. Before visitors may
+enter a permit must be obtained. A permit including the necessary fees
+to the keepers costs small parties of visitors about five dollars each;
+the permit and fees for the Molkte party, so it was rumored, cost the
+managers two hundred dollars. The captain of the guard at the gate
+scrutinized our permit and kept us waiting until an official was
+summoned to act as our conductor. When we arrived at the Treasury
+building the huge door was opened with impressive ceremony and the
+uniformed officials kept the tourists under close surveillance while
+they were within.
+
+Among the many curiosities that attracted attention in the first room of
+the Treasury was a throne captured from one of the Shahs of Persia four
+hundred years ago. This Persian throne is made of beaten gold inlaid
+with rubies and emeralds, and is said to be of fabulous value. Arranged
+in glass cases in another room a row of figures represents the Sultans
+of past ages clothed in the royal attire worn by them. The white turbans
+of these effigies are ablaze with jewels. The mantles which cover them
+are of Oriental brocade wrought in gold and silver patterns, and the
+belts, swords, and daggers are adorned with sparkling gems. A suit of
+chain armor worn by one of the Sultans of olden times is ornamented with
+gold and diamonds. On the second floor of the Treasury, to which we
+ascended by a narrow stairway, the most carefully guarded treasure is a
+throne used by a former Turkish ruler. This Turkish throne is made of
+precious wood inlaid with tortoise shell, mother of pearl, and gold and
+silver traceries, and is set with turquoises. A canopy overspreads the
+throne, and beneath the canopy, suspended by a golden cord, hangs an
+enormous pear-shaped emerald. In cases around the various rooms, crowns,
+sceptres, simitars, swords, daggers, and talismans, scintillate with
+rubies, emeralds, and diamonds.
+
+"Many of the highly valued treasures stored in these rooms," said our
+friend, the professor, "are trophies of the times when Crusader knight,
+Persian prince, and Saracen warrior went forth to battle arrayed in
+costly apparel, and encamped under silken canopies or in tents of cloth
+of gold. Then jeweled balls suspended from golden cords adorned the tent
+poles of the warriors, and luxury and opulence abounded underneath the
+canopies. The royalty of kings and princes moved with them to the field
+of war. Under pavilions of Oriental weave, silken carpets were spread
+over the turf for royal feet to tread, and thrones erected from which
+the sovereigns issued their commands. Retinues of retainers rendered
+obeisance and executed the mandates of their lords. Caravans of camels
+laden with robes of royalty and chests of treasure moved from camp to
+camp.
+
+"Knights and warriors vied with each other in the splendor of their
+equipage. The trappings of their war steeds were embroidered in silk and
+gold; the breastplates and helmets which protected their bodies were
+embossed with silver or traced with gold; the scabbards and hilts of
+their weapons were encrusted with precious stones; and their mantles
+were clasped with fastenings and buckles adorned with jewels. In battle
+the body of a dead knight gave much booty to the slayer; the capture of
+a canopy enriched the captors; and the defeat of an army and seizure of
+its camp gave to the victors a train of spoils.
+
+"For several centuries, the Turkish empire was dominant in the East and
+its armies victorious in the field. It was during these centuries of
+power that the Moslem rulers gathered the great accumulation of
+trophies and spoils of war, valued at untold millions, which we find
+stored in the rooms of this marble edifice."
+
+After leaving the Treasury we were led by the official conductor past
+the building in which the mantle, sword, and green banner of the great
+founder of Mohammedanism are treasured. These personal relics of the
+Prophet are considered by the Moslems too sacred to be gazed upon by
+infidel eyes.
+
+We tarried awhile in the Bagdad Kiosk, a white marble palace noted for
+its interior wall decoration of blue tiling, beautiful doors inlaid with
+mother of pearl, and handsome furniture inlaid with inscriptions of
+silver, and thence proceeded to a marble pavilion in which, as guests of
+the absent Sultan, we partook of refreshments. These refreshments,
+consisting of Turkish coffee in tiny cups and Turkish preserves on small
+plates, were brought to us by the servants of the Sultan. We stood
+awhile on the portico in the rear of the pavilion and admired the
+magnificent view of the harbor with its shipping, and the surrounding
+shores covered with buildings.
+
+Leaving the portico and its panoramic view with regret, we turned to the
+Museum of Antiquities, intending to inspect hastily the relics of
+ancient times which it contains. The collection, however, proved to be
+much more interesting than we had expected, so, instead of hurriedly
+passing through the building, we lingered around the sarcophagi and
+studied the hunting and battle scenes which were exquisitely carved on
+the polished marble of the exteriors of the old stone coffins. The
+most beautiful of these sarcophagi, twenty-one in number, have been
+discovered within the past thirty or forty years at Sidon in Syria. The
+tireless archæologists, eager in pursuit of knowledge of the past, found
+and opened the graves in which the dead kings of Sidon had quietly
+rested for thousands of years; then disinterring the heavy stone caskets
+they brought them to Constantinople to be placed on exhibition.
+
+[Illustration: THE STREET CARS IN PERA ARE DOUBLE-DECKED.]
+
+These sarcophagi are stone caskets of great size and weight composed of
+two pieces, the chest and lid. The chest is hewn out of one solid block
+of marble and the lid of another. The sarcophagi range from ten to
+twelve feet in length, from five to six feet in width, and from six to
+eight feet in height. One of the stone coffins, made of black Egyptian
+marble and named the Tabnith, contained, when found, the dried up mummy
+of an ancient king, Tabnith, who lived four centuries before the time of
+Christ. An inscription on this in Egyptian hieroglyphics pronounced a
+curse upon the man who should despoil the tomb, but the dreadful warning
+was not deciphered until the casket reached the Museum. Another
+sarcophagus, called the Satrap's, cut out of Parian marble, somewhat
+resembles a Grecian temple in form. On the sides are depicted, in marble
+carvings, a funeral banquet, a governor on his throne, a hunting scene
+with a lion at bay, a frightened horse dragging its dismounted rider,
+and many other similar scenes.
+
+"But this, in my opinion, is the most attractive casket in the
+collection," said the professor as we came to one named the Weepers, on
+the marble sides of which a master sculptor of ancient times had carved
+eighteen female forms. "Notice how each figure is portrayed in a
+different graceful attitude of mourning and how each is a picture of
+sorrow. And notice, too, the exquisite workmanship of the frieze with
+its ornamentation of a hundred small figures in hunting scenes."
+
+[Illustration: WE FED THE PIGEONS AT THE PIGEON MOSQUE.]
+
+Near to the Weepers is the sarcophagus known as the Alexander, the most
+famous in the collection, by many considered the most beautiful in the
+world, and in the opinion expressed by the American Consul in
+Constantinople, "worth crossing the ocean to see." The sculptures on
+this represent a battle between Greeks and Persians with many figures
+and incidents of battle, and elaborate hunting scenes with many details
+delicately worked out. These four sarcophagi, and the one named the
+Lycian on which Amazons in four horse chariots hunting lions are
+delineated, attracted the most attention from the tourists, but there
+were scores of other sarcophagi in the collection almost as interesting.
+
+In another part of the Museum, called the China Pavilion, the noted
+stone tablet from the Temple of Jerusalem was on exhibition. This
+tablet, discovered at Jerusalem in the year 1871, originally stood in
+the Temple enclosure to mark the limit which Gentiles were not allowed
+to pass. The Greek inscription on the tablet is translated as follows:
+
+"No Gentile may pass beyond the railing into the court round the Temple;
+he who is caught trespassing will bring death upon himself."
+
+Statues, pottery, porcelain, jewels, and antiquities of various kinds
+were hurriedly passed by until an exclamation of one of the ladies
+caused us to pause.
+
+"Look at his eyes," she said, pointing to a bronze statue of Jupiter.
+"Did you ever see any eyes like that in a statue?"
+
+The eyes of the god were represented by two bright rubies which gave
+them a very peculiar expression. This room contained many exquisite
+pieces of bronze work; one representing Hercules was particularly fine
+in execution.
+
+"We will stop now to view the Hippodrome," said the guide, after driving
+a short distance from the Museum.
+
+"But where is the Hippodrome?" inquired a tourist as we descended from
+the carriages in a long open square.
+
+"Alas! the building is no more," sadly replied the guide. "This square
+is a part of the ground on which it stood. The space was originally very
+long and wide, but that great Mosque of Ahmed and other buildings now
+occupy a large portion of the old circus grounds.
+
+"The ancient Hippodrome was an oblong enclosure fourteen hundred feet
+long and four hundred feet wide, surrounded by magnificent porticos
+adorned with statues of marble and bronze, and had a seating capacity of
+eighty thousand. It was used for chariot races, athletic sports, and
+bloody gladiatorial combats. Sometimes the seats were crowded with
+people, now assembled to glory in the triumphal procession of a
+returning conqueror, now to gloat over the burning of heretics and
+criminals who had been condemned to death by the flames.
+
+"That high red granite obelisk covered with hieroglyphics at the end of
+the square is called the Obelisk of Theodosius the Great. It was
+originally erected in the Temple of the Sun in Egypt in 1600 B.C. by a
+haughty king who inscribed on the stone a statement that he had
+'conquered the whole world,' and that his 'royalty was as firm as that
+of the gods in the sky.' For two thousand years the obelisk remained in
+Heliopolis as a memorial of its builder, Thotmes III, but for the past
+fifteen hundred years it has stood here as a monument to the Emperor
+Theodosius, who brought it from Egypt as a trophy. In order that he
+might not be forgotten, the Emperor caused a representation of himself
+surrounded by courtiers, guards, and dancing girls to be carved on the
+base of the obelisk. These sculptures, as you see, are in good
+condition. The bronze 'Serpent Column' in the centre of the square,
+representing three serpents coiled around each other, once supported the
+tripod used in the ceremonial services of the Pythian oracle at Delphi."
+
+When the guide had finished his remarks, our friend, the professor,
+stepped forward and said: "Some of the tourists may not be familiar with
+the story of the horses that lived as long and traveled as far as did
+the 'Wandering Jew' in Eugene Sue's well known romance. The conductor
+has requested me to relate the story."
+
+"In some ancient time before the Christian era, a Roman conqueror found
+in an Oriental city four magnificent horses that pleased him. He took
+them to Rome to grace his triumph. Centuries later the covetous Emperor
+Constantine brought these same horses from Rome to Constantinople and
+stood them here to add glory to the splendor of his Hippodrome. For nine
+hundred years the horses remained undisturbed; then ruthless Christian
+Crusaders carried them with other spoils to Venice. A long rest at
+Venice succeeded until the ambitious Bonaparte drew them away to
+beautify his famous Capitol. After the downfall of Napoleon the prayers
+of the Venetians were effectual in bringing the horses away from Paris,
+and now these gilded bronze travelers, that were coveted and prized by
+great rulers of the world, stand in front of the Church of San Marco in
+the city of Venice."
+
+[Illustration: WAGONS ARE RARELY USED, MEN CARRY MERCHANDISE.]
+
+As the professor ceased speaking, a clear penetrating voice was heard
+from overhead crying:
+
+"Al-la-hu, Ak-bar! Al-la-hu, Ak-bar!" uttering each syllable distinctly.
+
+It was the Muezzin calling the people to prayer. Looking up we saw him
+on a little balcony near the summit of a minaret which stood within the
+enclosure of the adjoining Mosque of Ahmed. Then he disappeared and we
+heard more faintly his call from the farther side of the balcony. It is
+the Muezzin's duty to repeat his calls from the four sides of the
+minaret, to north, east, south, and west. His words were interpreted for
+us: "God is great," repeated four times on each side of the minaret.
+
+Faithful Moslems on hearing the call repeated his words.
+
+"There is no God but God," he called again, reciting it twice.
+
+His hearers repeated this declaration.
+
+"Mohammed is the prophet of God."
+
+The people responded in the same words.
+
+"Come to prayer."
+
+"I have no power or strength but from God most high and great," all true
+believers replied.
+
+"Come to do good," again the Muezzin called.
+
+"What God wills will be; what he wills not will not be," answered the
+people, all responses being muttered in low tones.
+
+"The ringing of bells to call the people to service is forbidden," said
+the guide. "It is written that when the Mohammedan meetings were first
+held in Arabia, there was difficulty in gathering the people together
+and propositions were made to 'Ring a bell as the Christians do,' and to
+'Blow the trumpets as do the Jews;' but Omar cried, 'What! is there not
+a man among you who can call to prayer?' The prophet then said, 'O
+Billal! stand and make the call to prayer.' Since then the melodious
+voices of the trained Muezzins five times each day summon the Moslems
+to prayer, and the tall graceful minarets which rise above the
+surrounding buildings were erected so that the voices could ring out
+over the city."
+
+We followed the faithful into the mosque, after paying our fees and
+donning the slippers, and stood quietly in the rear of the great
+auditorium. The interior was brightened by beautiful blue and white
+tiling which lined the arches overhead and covered the immense piers
+that supported the roof. Inside the mosque, near the entrance, water was
+running from spigots into stone basins. The Moslems stopped at the
+basins and washed their hands and feet. Some of the better dressed
+worshipers appeared to have slippers inside their shoes and went through
+the motion of washing the feet, but the poorer classes used the water to
+cleanse their feet, and then walked forward barefooted on the rugs. Each
+man,--for there were no women at the service,--carried his shoes with
+him and placed them upon a board on the floor provided for that purpose.
+
+The Koran, the sacred book, which, as the Moslems claim, was revealed to
+Mahomet by the angel Gabriel and was written by Mahomet under
+inspiration, commands:
+
+"The clothes and person of the worshiper must be clean, the place free
+from all impurity, and the face turned toward Mecca." And also:
+
+"O believers! when ye address yourselves to prayer wash your hands up to
+the elbows, and wipe your heads, and your feet to the ankles."
+
+The worshipers, scattered around the vast interior, all facing the
+black stone in the wall which indicates the direction of Mecca, repeated
+their prayers in low tones. At first they stood with hands close at
+their sides, then as they muttered the prescribed formulas the hands
+were raised to the sides of the heads, then with hands clasped in front
+the worshipers remained for a short time in devout attention. After
+bowing several times the Moslems knelt on the Oriental rugs continuing
+the muttered supplications and concluded their personal devotions by
+bowing forward on their feet. The Iman, or priest, then ascended the
+pulpit, the worshipers formed in lines, and as the priests read the
+prayers, they went through the same movements that they had previously
+made while at their personal devotions.
+
+"Women do not take any part in the public worship on the floor of the
+mosque," said the guide. "The latticed galleries are provided for them.
+There they may sit in privacy during the service. The galleries,
+however, are rarely occupied."
+
+The Mosque of Ahmed has six minarets; St. Sophia, only four. The
+minarets, slender, round towers, are not attached to the main edifices,
+but stand separate and distinct in the courts surrounding the mosques,
+with some space intervening between mosque and minaret.
+
+Resuming our drive through the very narrow streets of Stamboul, which
+are paved with large rough cobble stones once laid in place but now very
+much out of place, we passed many old unpainted frame buildings with
+stove pipes projecting from the windows of the second and third floors.
+
+"I do not wish any one ill," said a tourist who at home was chief of a
+city Fire Department, "but I would give a ten dollar gold piece if I
+could see how the fire department of this old city manages to control or
+extinguish a conflagration after it has gained headway among these
+tinder boxes. The watchmen on the watch towers surely cannot locate a
+fire and give the alarm until they see a smoke or flame arising."
+
+[Illustration: CAMEL AND DONKEY WERE BEDECKED WITH TRAPPINGS.]
+
+The fountains of the city were one of the peculiar Turkish institutions
+that attracted the tourists' attention. The Koran enjoins all true
+believers to abstain from intoxicants, and to perform regular ablutions
+before prayers; so there are drinking fountains at corners where the
+thirsty assemble to drink from brass cups, and washing fountains or
+basins outside and adjoining the mosques, as well as inside these
+buildings, where Moslems were seen washing hands or feet regardless of
+our curious eyes. Some of the drinking fountains are very large and
+beautiful. The fountain erected by Sultan Ahmed surpasses all others in
+grace of proportion and beauty of design. This magnificent structure is
+ornamented with carved arabesques, inscriptions in gilt, and delicately
+colored green tile. Above the water tap may be seen in Turkish
+characters the builder's mandate:
+
+"Wayfarer, admire this beautiful work; turn the tap in the name of
+Allah; drink thy fill and bless the founder, Ahmed Khan."
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X.
+
+FROM THE BOSPORUS TO PALESTINE.
+
+
+The program posted for Saturday, February twenty-eighth, announced that
+the Moltke would leave Constantinople at nine o'clock in the morning for
+a trip to the Black Sea, a distance of thirty-five miles. As we sailed
+up the Bosporus, which narrows and widens, twists and turns, a
+succession of picturesque scenes opened up before us. Scattered along
+the shores, which for fifteen or twenty miles beyond Constantinople may
+be considered suburbs of that city, white marble palaces of the rulers,
+summer residences of the foreign ambassadors, and villas of the wealthy
+Turks were seen interspersed with modern villages and ruined walls and
+castles of past ages. Pretty frame summer houses, groves of dark green
+cypress, gardens, boat-houses, and mosques added interest to the views.
+
+"The sail up the Bosporus reminds me of one taken on the Hudson River,
+but the scenery on the banks is Oriental instead of modern," remarked
+one of the tourists.
+
+"The old castles and ruined walls, and the legends connected with them,
+suggest the Rhine," commented another.
+
+At the water's edge on the Asiatic side, a few miles from the city, we
+saw the beautiful white marble Beylerbey Palace, built in the year 1866
+by Abdul-Aziz, the predecessor of the present Sultan, as a residence
+for his harem. For their pleasure he surrounded the palace with groves
+and gardens and established a menagerie in the grounds. About eight
+miles from the city all eyes were turned toward a hill on the European
+shore, where, above a cluster of buildings, the Stars and Stripes
+floated in the breeze.
+
+"That is the American College, which is doing good work in Turkey. It
+was founded by Mr. A. Robert of New York, and is known as the 'Robert
+College,'" said the guide.
+
+[Illustration: THE TURKISH STUDENTS WAVED HATS AND FLAGS.]
+
+As our steamer passed the college, the Turkish students from roof,
+windows, and campus waved hats, handkerchiefs, and flags, and cheered
+energetically, and the tourists waved to them in return. Just beyond the
+college we passed an old town surrounded by ancient towers and time-worn
+walls.
+
+"This ancient stronghold," said the guide, "was known as the Citadel
+of Europe. The fortress commanded the Strait and enabled the Sultans of
+four centuries ago to levy toll on all passing vessels. At this place,
+where the Bosporus is only about half a mile wide, the Persian ruler,
+Darius, with his army crossed on a bridge of boats to invade Greece.
+Here also the Crusaders crossed on their way to free the Holy Land from
+the clutch of the Saracens."
+
+[Illustration: LEVIED TOLL ON ALL PASSING VESSELS.]
+
+The Moltke sailed into the Black Sea merely far enough to sweep around
+in a wide circle and then, returning through the Bosporus, passed by
+Constantinople and entered the Sea of Marmora.
+
+"It seems like parting with a dear old friend," said a tourist as we
+looked back on the fading domes and waved farewell to mosque and
+minaret. "We have seen so much of the city in so short a time. Every
+hour has been used to the best advantage in the Turkish capital."
+
+Sunday, March first, was not to be a day of rest for the tourists; for
+the Moltke had arrived at Smyrna at daylight and was to remain in the
+harbor of that city only until dark.
+
+The principal reason for a day's stay at Smyrna was to give an
+opportunity for an excursion by train to the site of ancient Ephesus.
+Many of the tourists took this trip to see the few scattered ruins that
+mark the place where once stood the magnificent Temple of Diana. The
+clergymen of the party desired to view the place where the Apostle Paul
+had fought in the arena with wild beasts, and where Demetrius and his
+fellow silversmiths had led the rioters against this Apostle whose
+preaching interfered with the sales of silver shrines for Diana.
+
+Other tourists, who did not take the excursion to Ephesus, explored the
+narrow, badly-paved streets of Smyrna, and visited the bazaars. This
+city would have seemed more interesting to us but for our previous visit
+to the more picturesque Constantinople. In a crowded street we
+encountered a flock of turkeys driven by a native. The turkeys appeared
+to understand the driver's commands and were more easily guided by a
+touch of his long switch than would be a flock of sheep passing through
+a street in an American city.
+
+Setting sail again, we passed late in the evening the island of Patmos,
+where Saint John wrote the book of Revelations, and on Monday morning we
+saw at a distance the island of Rhodes, noted for its historic defense
+by the Knights of Malta. About nine o'clock Tuesday morning the Moltke
+anchored in the Bay of St. George some distance from the shore. On the
+surrounding hill slopes rose the city of Beyrout. Fresh-looking white
+and yellow tinted buildings, red-tiled roofs, and a background of green
+groves and orchards interspersed with white villas, gave the city an
+appearance of newness. The whole scene, with the snow-capped Mountains
+of Lebanon beyond, presented a beautiful picture to the eye.
+
+"Beyrout has a population of 120,000, and is a prosperous, growing
+city," said one of the managers of the tour. "It is a centre of
+missionary work, and has American and German colleges. The old streets
+are narrow, as are all old streets in Eastern towns; but they are clean.
+The newer streets are of modern width. Educational advantages, foreign
+enterprise, and European mercantile firms have infused new life into
+the native population."
+
+[Illustration: LADEN WITH HUGE TIMBERS.]
+
+Madame Barakat, a native of Syria, and a well-known lecturer and Bible
+reader, had very kindly given us letters of introduction to her Syrian
+relatives in Beyrout. Among these were Mr. Sarkis, a highly respected
+gentleman who had been honored by the Sultan with decorations for
+services to his country, and who was also an author and editor of a
+daily newspaper; and Mr. Sabra, his assistant, a tall, fine-looking man.
+Another was the Rev. Mr. Zurub, pastor of the Congregational Church. The
+three gentlemen were able to converse in English as fluently as in their
+own tongue.
+
+[Illustration: I. SCATTERED RUINS OF EPHESUS.]
+
+[Illustration: II. WHERE ONCE STOOD THE TEMPLE OF DIANA.]
+
+We were very cordially received by Mr. Sarkis, and, after meeting and
+conversing with the other gentlemen, were shown through their printing
+house, where Syrian type-setters were setting type to print Arabic
+letters that looked like shorthand characters, and Jewish girls were
+employed binding pamphlets. Our names were given to the printer, and in
+a few minutes he presented us with visiting cards containing the names
+in Arabic letters, thus:
+
+[Illustration: Arabic script]
+
+"Let us visit a candy factory while waiting for the carriages I have
+ordered," said Mr. Sabra. "I know that the ladies are fond of sweetmeats
+and I can guarantee these to be perfectly pure. We think that our
+candies are delicious," he added as we entered the factory, and the
+ladies agreed with him after eating some of the sweets.
+
+The Syrians take pride in their city, in its factories, its hospitals,
+its seminaries and colleges, its progressive business spirit, and the
+beauty of its suburbs. We visited one of the silk factories where
+hundreds of Syrian girls were engaged in unwinding the cocoons of
+delicate gossamer that had been tediously spun and wound by the silk
+worms among the leaves of the mulberry trees in the great orchards on
+the hillsides.
+
+"On the slope of yonder mountain we have a villa in which we spend the
+hot summer months," said Mr. Sabra, pointing to the distant mountains as
+we reached an elevation from which a broad view was obtained. "If there
+had been time I would have taken you there to see one of the most
+beautiful views in Syria."
+
+[Illustration: CACTI IN BEYROUT MADE AN IMPENETRABLE FENCE.]
+
+"The landscape is magnificent as seen from here," we replied. The
+fruitful valley lay before us, beyond rose the verdant hills, and above
+all towered the stately mountains of Lebanon. Villages, hamlets, villas,
+exuberant gardens, orchards of spreading mulberry trees, graceful palms,
+fig, lemon, and orange trees enhanced the beauty of the scene.
+
+"Our colleges and schools," said Mr. Sarkis, "are equal to those of a
+European city. Our people are becoming an educated people; almost all of
+the younger generation can read and write. My daughters have been
+educated in the American Seminary and can converse fluently in French,
+German, and English, as well as in Arabic."
+
+In a narrow thoroughfare we passed horses laden with long boards
+strapped lengthwise on their backs, and camels laden with huge timbers
+strapped to their backs and sides in the same manner.
+
+"This is my home," said Mr. Sarkis, as the carriage stopped before a
+large house surrounded by a small garden and a high wall. "I wish you to
+meet my wife and sister and daughters."
+
+Our hostesses were dressed in the English fashion, and our hosts, too,
+wore modern English clothes, but the red fez on their heads designated
+them as Turkish subjects. When we expressed an interest in their way of
+living, the ladies took us from the reception room, which was furnished
+in modern style, into their garden where orange and lemon trees and
+semi-tropical plants were growing. They conducted us then through the
+spacious marble-floored central hall, permitting us to look into nursery
+and bedrooms fitted up partly in modern and partly in Oriental style,
+and led us up a stone stairway to the level roof, which, with its
+surrounding parapet, recalled the one described in "Ben Hur." Here fruit
+was served by a Syrian maid clad in the native costume. On our return to
+the lower floor, our hostesses conducted us to the divan salon or
+Oriental smoking room. There, while we rested on low couches, the
+Syrian maid passed around Turkish coffee in dainty cups, and then
+brought a lighted narghileh from which, in turn, each one present took a
+few whiffs of the mild Turkish tobacco.
+
+[Illustration: VISITED THE OLDEST CITY IN THE WORLD.]
+
+Mr. Sarkis told us that he had visited the United States at the time of
+the Chicago Exposition. He took one hundred and forty Arabian horses to
+the Exposition and had some interesting experiences while there. The
+Rev. Mr. Zurub had spent sixteen months in America and spoke in the
+highest terms of the kindness with which he had been received by the
+American people.
+
+In the evening a ball was given on the deck of the steamer, which had
+been tastefully decorated for the occasion. Our friends, Mr. Sarkis,
+Mrs. Sarkis and sister, the daughters, Fahima, aged about eighteen,
+Neda, aged about fourteen, and a son, aged about sixteen, together with
+Mr. Sabra, came on board to visit the ship. Mr. Sabra sang some Arabic
+songs and Fahima joined him in a duet.
+
+About fifty tourists left the Moltke at Beyrout in order to take the
+side trip of three days to Damascus, the oldest city in history, and to
+the ruins of the great Temple of Baal at Baalbek. A narrow-gauge railway
+extends across the Lebanon Mountains from Beyrout to Damascus. The
+distance is but ninety miles, but as the train has to rise to an
+elevation of nearly five thousand feet and then descend to the valley
+beyond, the average speed does not exceed ten or twelve miles an hour.
+On Wednesday morning the steamer stopped at the little seaport of Haifa
+just long enough to send ashore sixty passengers. Some of these wished
+to take the side trip to Nazareth and the Sea of Galilee by carriage;
+the others, to make the excursion through the interior of Palestine on
+horseback, camping on the way, and rejoining the main party in
+Jerusalem.
+
+At noon on Wednesday the Moltke anchored in the unprotected harbor of
+Jaffa over a mile from the shore, as it is not safe for a large steamer
+to approach nearer. This was the landing place in the Mediterranean most
+dreaded by the tourists; for we had heard of jagged rocks that projected
+their black heads from the water, and of rough seas that on windy days
+broke over the rocks making the passage from the vessel to the dock very
+dangerous. The weather, however, was fair and the sea unusually smooth
+that noon as the tourists one by one dropped from the platform at the
+foot of the stairway into the row-boats as they rose on the swell of the
+waves. The boats were large and built expressly for this dangerous
+harbor. Each boat was managed by eight men, six rowers, a helmsman, and
+a bowman, and each boat carried about twenty passengers. As the Syrians
+labored hard at the oars they chanted continually a prayer to Allah for
+a fair passage.
+
+After safely landing at the stone steps of the dock, we proceeded
+through the streets to the special train which was waiting to carry us
+up to Jerusalem, not stopping to visit the traditional house of Simon,
+the tanner, where the Apostle Peter had a vision on the roof.
+
+"The oranges of Jaffa are noted as being the finest in the world. Don't
+fail to buy some," said a gentleman from California. "We raise good
+oranges in my state, but ours are not quite equal to those of Jaffa."
+
+Arab men and boys surrounded the tourists at the station offering
+carefully packed baskets, each containing two or three dozen fresh,
+juicy oranges at what seemed an extremely low price. When the train
+started every compartment contained one or more baskets of the delicious
+fruit.
+
+[Illustration: IT WAS A TYPICAL SYRIAN GROUP.]
+
+The journey from Jaffa to Jerusalem was literally "up;" for the Sacred
+City is nearly three thousand feet above the sea, and four hours was
+required for the trip of fifty-four miles. After leaving Jaffa the train
+passed through a succession of interesting panoramic views: gardens
+where richness of soil was manifested by the rankness of the growth of
+the plants and flowers; groups of palm trees with long, rough trunks,
+and tufted heads high in the air; long rows of tall, narrow-leaved,
+evergreen eucalyptus trees; orchards of orange trees where yellow fruit
+clustered amid the glossy dark green leaves; orchards of almond trees
+covered with a delicate pink bloom; and orchards of gray olive trees
+with a carpet of grass underneath, as beautiful as a park; bare fig
+trees whose time for leaf and bloom had not yet come; and fences of huge
+leaved prickly cactus plants protecting garden plots.
+
+"What queer looking plows they have," said a companion, as we noticed
+near the train a plowman who had stopped his camel, and thrown his plow,
+which looked like a crooked root with a point, out of the furrow, while
+he gazed at the passing train. "The first gardener must have obtained a
+plow of the same kind from the original forest."
+
+In stretches of sod the rich brown earth was being turned up by farmers
+with teams of camels, one great camel to each little wooden plow, or
+with teams composed of an ox and an ass hitched together. In one field
+twelve camel teams were plowing the sod. We use the word field, but
+there were no fences except the cactus hedges around small plots. The
+farm boundaries from ancient times have been marked by corner stones to
+which Moses referred when he gave the law: "Cursed be he that removeth
+his neighbor's landmark." We were in the midst of historic places
+mentioned in the Bible. To the north lay the fertile level fields of the
+Plain of Sharon. Fields of young wheat were beautified by the roses of
+Sharon,--red poppies with black centres and short stems,--which dotted
+the carpet of green with flecks of red. At Lydda, where Peter healed the
+man who had the palsy, Arab urchins begged the passengers to buy little
+bunches of the red poppies and other wild flowers that they offered for
+sale. To the south stretched the Plain of Philistia, the scene of
+Samson's adventures, and the fields through which he sent the three
+hundred foxes with firebrands tied to their tails. In that direction
+also lay battle fields where Philistines and Israelites struggled for
+supremacy.
+
+[Illustration: A CARAVAN WITH BALES OF RUGS HAD JUST ARRIVED.]
+
+The towns and villages on the route were small and mean. The better
+buildings were constructed of stone with flat stone roofs, but many were
+made of mud with mud roofs on which a crop of grass was growing. After
+the first hour's ride, fertile rolling plains succeeded the level sandy
+loam. When about thirty miles from Jaffa, after a two hours' ride, the
+hill country of Judea was entered. From that point the train traveled
+slowly and laboriously up the hills and mountains by steep gradients.
+Overhead in the limestone cliffs were many caves, one of which was
+pointed out as Samson's Grotto. Whenever there was any soil among the
+rocks and stones, the grass grew luxuriantly, making good pasture for
+the herds of nimble-footed black goats that picked their way along the
+steep and rocky mountain side. The red rose of Sharon grew in profusion
+and took possession of the uncultivated ground around the trees and
+between the rocks. At many places the abundance of these poppies and the
+beauty of their groupings gave to the land the appearance of a park
+planned and laid out by a landscape gardener. Nearer the summit the
+hills were bleak and barren. Here was the village of Bittir, a group of
+little stone houses clinging to the mountain side, where terraces
+supported by stone walls held up small gardens on which cauliflower and
+other vegetables were growing.
+
+[Illustration: THEY CHANTED A PRAYER TO ALLAH.]
+
+"For the past hour," said a lady who had been intently gazing out of the
+window of the car, "yes, for a longer time, I have been looking forward
+expecting to see a city burst forth impressively into sight, a city upon
+a mountain top, 'beautiful for situation.' Now the conductor tells us
+that we are nearing our destination, and yet cliffs and hills are all
+that we can see. Where is Jerusalem? 'A city set upon a hill cannot be
+hid.'"
+
+"You have not read your Bible closely," replied a minister in our
+compartment. "David said, 'The mountains are round about Jerusalem,' As
+it was then so we shall find it now, on hills surrounded by other hills.
+Do not expect to see the city of Solomon's time which the Queen of Sheba
+came to visit. Its glory departed eighteen centuries ago. I fear that
+your imagination has led you to expect more than the modern Turkish town
+which we shall find, and you may feel like lamenting with Jeremiah, 'Is
+this the city that men call the perfection of beauty, the joy of the
+whole earth?'"
+
+It was not until we were approaching the railway station, which is
+situated in the suburbs about a mile from the city, that we obtained a
+view of the yellow walls and buildings of the Holy City, and the sight
+then was not impressive, as we had expected. Then at the station, amid
+the noisy cries of many Arab drivers, we obtained seats in carriages,
+and were driven at breakneck speed over a good road down into the valley
+of Hinnom and up a long hill to the Jaffa gate.
+
+The party had been divided by the managers into sections for the various
+hotels, and each tourist had been given a card with the name of his
+hotel. Those who were to go to hotels outside the walls of the city
+proceeded directly to their destination in carriages. Those who were to
+stay within the walls descended from the conveyances in front of the
+Grand Hotel just within the Jaffa gate, and went the rest of the way on
+foot through narrow streets that carriages could not enter. The writer
+was assigned to the Casa Nova, or Hospitium Franciscanum, a monastery or
+hospital built expressly for the accommodation of pilgrims to the Holy
+City, and controlled and managed by Franciscan monks.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI.
+
+JERUSALEM.
+
+
+On Wednesday evening, after our arrival at Jerusalem, we visited a small
+store to purchase a guide-book of the city. But the merchant would not
+accept our French or English money, and we had no Turkish money. We laid
+the book down, but the dealer said, "You take the book and pay me
+another time."
+
+"Are you willing to trust a stranger?" we inquired.
+
+"Yes!" he replied, "I trust American any time. You may buy goods, all
+you want, three hundred dollars' worth. I trust you. When you go home to
+America, then you send me the money."
+
+"Were you never cheated?" we asked.
+
+"No," he answered, "I trust American many time. American always pay, but
+me not trust Frenchman; Frenchman forget."
+
+Glad to know that our countrymen bear such a good reputation, we took
+the book without giving our names, merely telling him that we were
+staying at the Casa Nova and would pay the next day.
+
+In our country we can travel from Maine to California with one kind of
+money. All that is necessary is to have plenty of it. But in these
+foreign lands the currency changes as we move from one country to
+another, so that we may have a pocket full of money and yet not be able
+to pay our bills. At Funchal, Portuguese money was current; at
+Gibraltar and at Malta, English money; at Granada, Spanish; at Algiers,
+French; at Athens, Greek; at Constantinople and Jerusalem, Turkish. In
+Cairo another coinage was current, and in Italy the Turkish and Egyptian
+coins left over had to be sold to the money changers or taken home as
+souvenirs. In large cities the hotels and larger stores accepted
+American, English, and French money at its value, but small dealers and
+individuals knew nothing of foreign coins and wanted payment in their
+own currency. As it was desirable at all times to have plenty of small
+coins on hand, the tourists soon became acquainted with the value of
+shillings and pence, francs and centimes, drachmæ and lepta, piasters
+and paras. On our arrival at each port the managers of the tour and the
+purser of the vessel obtained a large number of small coins of that
+particular country so that the needs of the tourists could be promptly
+supplied.
+
+Our room at the Hospice was rather cold but my room-mate said there was
+one compensation, we need have no fear of the hotel's burning down and
+so need not be anxious as to the location of the fire escapes before
+retiring. The Casa Nova is a stone building with stone stairways and
+floors. In our room there was nothing inflammable but the mosquito
+nettings and lace draperies over the iron bedsteads. Two candles
+furnished us with light, hempen rugs covered portions of the black and
+white marble floor, a gilded crucifix hung on the painted stone wall,
+and two chairs, a small table, and a washstand completed the furnishing.
+
+[Illustration: I. ENTERED BY THE JAFFA GATE.]
+
+[Illustration: II. STOOD IN THE PALACE OF CAIAPHAS.]
+
+Early Thursday morning, with bright anticipations, we started for a
+visit to Bethlehem. The drive of six miles over a good limestone road
+was one of much interest. Our dragoman pointed out the well where the
+wise men, stooping to drink, saw the reflection of the star in the
+water before they beheld the star itself in the sky.
+
+[Illustration: CAMELS SINGLE AND CAMELS IN TRAINS.]
+
+"Why, how could that be?" inquired one of the party. "I thought the wise
+men were following the star."
+
+But the guide did not attempt to explain. It was his business to state
+facts in which he had believed all his life; not to enter into disputes
+with unbelievers as to the truth of his statements. He showed us a great
+rock in the road where Elijah, wearied in his flight, lay down to rest.
+It seemed to be a hard bed for a tired man, but we remembered that in
+olden times rocks and caves were selected for sleeping-places and stones
+often served for pillows.
+
+[Illustration: RECALLED TO MEMORY THE OLD LOVE STORY.]
+
+Camels were so numerous on the road that they lost their
+novelty,--camels single and camels in trains, with great hampers
+swinging at their sides laden with sacks of lime or charcoal, with
+building stone or cauliflower, with fish or flagstones, with chunks of
+wood and gnarled roots, with bags of grain and crates of vegetables,
+each camel carrying a quantity about equal to a one-horse wagon load.
+From a hill-top we caught a glimpse of the Dead Sea lying far below us
+in the valley twenty miles away. We met women on their way to market
+with heavy baskets of cauliflower and other vegetables poised on their
+heads, men bending under distended goat-skins filled with water or wine
+strapped to their shoulders, donkeys bearing basket-panniers filled with
+produce or laden with bags of grain heaped on their backs, Greek priests
+in black robes and high hats carrying white umbrellas for protection
+from the sun, and turbaned Arabs in brown robes plodding along with
+staves in their hands.
+
+The mountainous suburbs of the city are composed of limestone, and the
+limestone rocks cropped out on every side. The rocks protruding from the
+soil were of a light gray color, but the broken rocks, the fences, and
+the houses built of stone had changed to a light yellow shade from
+exposure to the weather. The fields were covered with stones except
+where little patches had been cleared with great labor and the stones
+built into fences surrounding the small plots. The hill-sides were
+almost bare of soil. Where the stones had been cleared away, the soil of
+decomposed limestone produced a luxuriant growth. The cauliflower
+carried to market was the finest we had ever seen. The few scattered
+olive trees in the valleys appeared strong and healthy in their light
+green foliage. The fig trees were bare, but occasional groups of almond
+trees were covered with pink bloom.
+
+[Illustration: IN THE NARROW STREETS OF BETHLEHEM.]
+
+During our drive we saw peasants plowing little plots with single
+donkeys and crooked wooden plows, or digging between rocks and around
+grape vines with clumsy, heavy-looking hoes. The grape vines were
+trimmed back to within three or four feet of the ground and were not
+supported or trellised. Women gathered the trimmings of the vines, bound
+them into fagots, placed the fagots on their heads, and carried them
+away to the city for firewood. Not a sprig was wasted. The old roots
+that were dug out of the ground were borne away in the same manner. In a
+country without forests and without coal everything that will burn is
+utilized. We saw girls carrying flat baskets on their heads and the
+guide satisfied our curiosity by explaining that the baskets contained
+dried cakes of camels' dung which the girls had gathered and were taking
+home for fuel.
+
+Rachel's tomb, situated four miles from Jerusalem, and about two miles
+from Bethlehem, recalled to memory the old love story: "And Jacob served
+Laban seven years for Rachel; and they seemed unto him but a few days,
+for the love he had for her."
+
+[Illustration: THE PEOPLE OF BETHLEHEM WERE BRIGHT AND CHEERFUL.]
+
+Cut in the rock, near Bethlehem is an ancient well, known as the well of
+David. From that point we obtained a good view of the square stone
+houses of the little town of Bethlehem, which is built on a sloping
+hill-side, and of the great spreading Church of the Nativity, which is
+the dominating feature of the place. Beyond the city we saw a verdant
+plain, where possibly Ruth gleaned, and, farther away, the hills where
+probably David led his flock to "green pastures" and the shepherds of
+later days received the "tidings of great joy."
+
+In the narrow streets of Bethlehem our driver shouted to men, women, and
+children to clear the way and make room for the carriages to pass
+through, snapping his whip at them if they did not quickly obey. When we
+arrived at the old Church of the Holy Nativity we were told that this
+venerable place is in reality a group of buildings, the original edifice
+having been built fifteen or more centuries ago, and many additions
+having been made in after years. We saw a structure of yellowish stone
+walls pierced with small windows which appeared to us more like a prison
+or a fortress than a place of worship. There were no stained glass
+windows. There was no imposing portal opening into the temple. On
+entering the sacred enclosure we passed through a door in the stone wall
+so low that we were compelled to stoop and so narrow that but one at a
+time might enter.
+
+"This doorway," said the guide, "should remind the pilgrims that the
+birthplace of the Savior is to be visited with humility and reverence."
+
+In the large, time-worn interior of the church, faded mosaics, huge
+columns, and stone floors presented a rather gloomy aspect. The tourists
+hastened through and descended to the crypt or vault underneath the
+church. This vault was paved with marble, and on a raised platform in
+the centre was a large, handsomely decorated altar. Suspended from the
+ceiling were many ancient lamps of curious make and smaller lamps
+hanging in festoons. On one side was a small room, called the Chapel of
+the Nativity, where thirty gold and silver lamps threw a dim, soft light
+on the scene below. In the pavement before an altar was a star of
+silver, and the words:
+
+    "Hic de Virgine Maria Jesus Christus natus est."
+
+Opposite and near the Chapel of the Nativity was another small,
+rock-walled room called the Chapel of the Manger. In this room the dim
+light of golden lamps revealed a white marble manger in which a large
+wax doll reclined.
+
+"The original wooden manger or cradle in which the infant Jesus reposed
+was taken to Rome," explained the guide. "If you return by way of Rome
+you may see it in the great church of Santa Maria Maggiore."
+
+"The care of the chapels, shrines, and holy places of the Church of the
+Nativity," he continued, "is appointed to the Latin, Greek, and Armenian
+churches. The space inside the building is divided. Each sect has its
+own particular portion to care for, and an intense jealousy exists among
+the rival religious bodies. If the rug of the Armenian is accidentally
+pushed over the Latin line, the action is resented. If the broom of the
+Latin while cleansing intrudes upon the Greek domain, there is trouble.
+Disputes have arisen from very slight causes, blows have been exchanged,
+rioting, blood-shed, and murder have followed. Priests at times have
+fought with priests until the Turkish soldiers intervened. Now, by the
+Sultan's orders, Moslem guards are stationed in the church to restrain
+the impetuous caretakers and prevent disturbances."
+
+[Illustration: THIS ROUND-TOPPED RIDGE IS CALLED THE MOUNT OF OLIVES.]
+
+In one of the underground chapels of the church, a dark and gloomy
+cavern cut out of the solid rock, the guide said: "In this grotto Saint
+Jerome passed thirty years fasting, praying, meditating, and writing.
+His last communion was taken here."
+
+We remembered that Domenichino's celebrated painting in the Vatican at
+Rome, called the "Last Communion of St. Jerome," represented the aged
+saint dying amid luxurious surroundings.
+
+When we came out of the church, bright-faced boys and girls urged us to
+buy their wares or accompany them to the shops. The little town appeared
+to prosper from the manufacture and sale of souvenirs of carved
+mother-of-pearl and olive-wood. Crosses, crucifixes, rosaries, beads,
+glove-boxes, writing desks, inkstands, napkin rings, paper knives, and
+forks were offered as genuine wood from the olive trees of David's town,
+and the mother-of-pearl mementoes were carved with minute scenes of
+events in the life of Christ and of places in the Holy Land.
+
+After the purchase of olive wood souvenirs had been made, the drive was
+continued to the Pools which Solomon had built to collect water for use
+in the Temple. These are situated among the hills about eight miles from
+Jerusalem. The stone walls of the reservoirs were so well constructed by
+Solomon's architects three thousand years ago that to-day the masonry
+is in almost perfect condition. The Pools, we were informed are not in
+use at the present time, although water is conveyed in pipes to
+Jerusalem from springs near-by.
+
+[Illustration: A GARDEN SURROUNDED BY AN IRON FENCE.]
+
+The glare of the sun on the white road and gray rocks, the lack of green
+in the bare landscape, and the fine dust from the limestone caused a
+slight smarting in the eyes of the travelers. So it was with relief that
+in the suburbs of the city, about half a mile from the Damascus gate, we
+descended a long flight of stone steps into the shade of an excavation
+in the rocks about twenty feet in depth. This open chamber, known as the
+Tombs of the Kings, is about ninety feet square. At one side is a
+doorway in the rock four feet high and thirty inches wide, and beside
+the doorway stood a huge stone, rounded at the corners, that might, by
+the united efforts of several men, be rolled in front of the entrance so
+as to close it completely. We crawled through the hole in the rock and
+entered a cavern. The candles of the guides revealed on each side of the
+cavern small rooms or caves containing shelves or apertures which had
+been used as the sepulchres of the Kings.
+
+Jerusalem, situated on four hills, is surrounded by hills which are
+separated from the city and from each other by deep valleys or gulleys.
+We drove from Jerusalem to the Mount of Olives over a well constructed
+modern limestone road that wound among these hills and valleys in long
+curves and horseshoes in order to reach a place that seemed almost
+within a stone's throw.
+
+[Illustration: CAREFULLY TENDED AND GUARDED BY FRANCISCAN MONKS.]
+
+"The summit of this round-topped ridge, which is called the Mount of
+Olives, is owned by Russia," explained the guide, "and the Russians have
+erected an observation tower, a chapel, and other buildings upon it.
+These buildings are surrounded by a courtyard enclosed within high stone
+walls, and a fee must be paid at the gate in order to gain admittance.
+Within the court a small circular pavilion covers the place from which,
+it is claimed, the ascension of the Savior was made."
+
+As we approached the gate, a group of Russian men and women were seen
+coming sadly away. We were informed later that these peasants, after
+tramping a long distance on a holy pilgrimage in order to kneel down and
+kiss the stone that marked the sacred spot of the Ascension of their
+Lord, were refused admittance because they had not the required fee to
+pay for entrance. In a Roman Catholic church, built on the spot on
+Olivet where Christ is said to have taught His disciples to pray, the
+Lord's Prayer is displayed on charts in large letters in thirty-six
+different languages, so that pilgrims from all parts of the world can
+read the prayer in their own tongue.
+
+From the summit of Olivet, which is two hundred feet above the city of
+Jerusalem, we looked down over the Holy City; but a finer panoramic view
+of the surrounding country was obtained afterwards from the Russian
+observation tower. The climbing of the two hundred stone steps which
+lead to the top of the tower was not easy, but we felt amply repaid by
+the magnificence of the view. Near the foot of the mountain lay the
+Garden of Gethsemane. Beyond and four hundred feet below us, the
+little brook Kedron trickled through the narrow Valley of Jehoshaphat.
+Across the valley on the opposite heights of Mount Moriah, only half a
+mile away in a direct line, prominent in the foreground, stood the
+Mosque of Omar, and back of it rose the square roof and round domes of
+the city buildings. Away off to the east, deep down in the valley, we
+could see a portion of the Dead Sea and could trace the Valley of the
+River Jordan.
+
+[Illustration: AND A FEW LEAVES FROM ONE OF THE ANCIENT OLIVE TREES.]
+
+We walked from the summit of the Mount of Olives down a steep, rocky,
+crooked, narrow lane, hemmed in by stone walls, to the foot of the
+slope, as it is considered too dangerous for the tourists to remain in
+the carriages while descending this short cut to a lower road. The
+carriages rejoined us later. At the foot of the hill there was a piece
+of land about half an acre in extent enclosed by a white stone fence.
+Within the enclosure was a garden surrounded by an iron fence. Between
+the stone fence and the iron railing was a wide path. Within the garden
+were eight gnarled olive trees that appeared to be of great age, and
+flower beds which were carefully tended and guarded by Franciscan monks.
+It was not necessary for the guide to tell us that this was the Garden
+of Gethsemane. Small shrines with pictures above them, fourteen in all,
+representing the fourteen traditionary stations of the Via Dolorosa,
+were arranged at intervals along the path around the garden. Before
+these shrines pilgrims were kneeling in prayer. As we were leaving the
+garden an old monk with tonsured head, in long brown robe girt about
+with a hempen cord and having sandals laced on his bare feet,
+presented each, of us with a flower from the garden and a few leaves
+from one of the ancient olive trees.
+
+[Illustration: I. BETHANY IS A POOR LITTLE VILLAGE.]
+
+[Illustration: II. THE EMPTY TOMB OF THE RISEN VIRGIN.]
+
+The Tomb and Chapel of the Virgin, which is but a short distance from
+Gethsemane, had a venerable aspect, and the olive trees surrounding it
+were patriarchal in appearance. We crossed the sunken court and
+descended a broad staircase of sixty steps to a gloomy chapel which
+seemed to have been excavated in the rock.
+
+"These tombs on the right are the tombs of the parents of the Virgin,
+Joachim and Anna," said the guide as we halted in the dim light. "That
+tomb on the left is the tomb of Joseph, the husband of Mary. The small
+chapel at the end of the grotto contains the empty tomb of the risen
+virgin."
+
+On the road to Bethany we passed many trains of pack mules, twenty or
+thirty in a train, and caravans of camels striding along in single file.
+A light rope or chain connected the leading camel with the others and
+kept them from straggling.
+
+The Arab who drove our carriage told us that he was a scholar. He
+explained by stating that he could converse fluently in four languages,
+besides his own native Arabic tongue. These languages were Turkish,
+Russian, Latin, and French, and in addition, he knew enough English to
+give some information to the tourists. The linguistic ignorance of the
+occupants of his carriage seemed to impress him with the idea that
+education in America is neglected.
+
+[Illustration: IN A STREET IN BETHANY A LOCAL GUIDE WAS WAITING.]
+
+Bethany, barely two miles distant from Jerusalem, is a poor little
+village with steep, rough, dirty lanes and a number of old and
+dilapidated small stone houses amid broken walls of other houses which
+evidently have been equally insignificant. One of these piles was
+pointed out by the Bethany guides as the ruins of the home of Mary and
+Martha, and we were then taken to a narrow lane where a dark and slimy
+stairway led down to the reputed tomb of Lazarus. Our dragoman, who
+firmly believed in the traditions of the country, said that he could not
+vouch for the statements made by the Bethany local guides.
+
+[Illustration: AT THE ENTRANCE TO THE TOMB OF LAZARUS.]
+
+Returning to Jerusalem, we visited the so-called palace of Caiaphas,
+the High Priest. This palace is an excavated ruin. Steps lead down to
+the marble floor, which is fifteen or twenty feet below the present
+level of the street.
+
+[Illustration: THE RUINS OF THE HOME OF MARY AND MARTHA.]
+
+"The circle on the pavement," said the custodian, "marks the place
+where Peter stood with the soldiers, warming his hands by the little
+fire which they had kindled in a brazier, when he was accused by the
+maid of being a companion and follower of the Prisoner then on trial
+before the High Priest. The stone pillar that you see in the courtyard
+of the palace is the stone on which the cock was perched when its
+crowing quickened Peter's memory, softened his heart, and brought bitter
+tears to his eyes."
+
+After leaving the palace we followed the guide through a rough narrow
+street to a view point on the wall. Far below us lay the Valley of
+Jehoshaphat, the village of Siloam, and the site of the pool to which
+Jesus sent the blind man to wash.
+
+"The walk to the pool through the rough and crooked streets would be
+difficult now for a man with good sight," remarked one of the tourists,
+"how much more so would it be to a blind man groping his way."
+
+Permission to visit the Temple Area, or Haram, as it is called by the
+Moslems, had been obtained from the Turkish authorities by the payment
+of heavy fees. We proceeded to that place on foot accompanied by the
+dragoman. At the gate of the Area the authorities furnished Moslem
+guides to conduct the visitors through the enclosure, and sent Turkish
+soldiers to accompany the party to restrain any possible irreverent or
+unseemly conduct while within the holy precincts.
+
+[Illustration: I. WITHIN THE TEMPLE AREA.]
+
+[Illustration: II. THE AREA EXTENDS OVER THIRTY-FIVE ACRES.]
+
+"The Temple Area, which probably covers the place where was once the
+Court of the Temple," explained the dragoman, as we halted within the
+grounds, "is thirty-five acres in extent, about one thousand feet wide
+by two thousand feet in length, and is surrounded by high walls. It is
+revered by the Moslems as one of their most holy places. This is the
+Mount Moriah hallowed by the sacrifices of Abraham, glorified by the
+prayers of King David, consecrated by the Temple of Solomon, and made
+additionally sacred by the ascension of the Prophet of Allah. The
+Moslems forbid the entrance of Jews into the Haram, although the Jews
+have as great reverence for the place as the Moslems."
+
+In the centre of the Area, on a raised embankment or platform, paved
+with marble slabs, stood a handsome octagonal building covered below the
+window line with marbles of various hues and above that line by
+decorated tiles of blue-and-white porcelain edged with green. As we
+stood on the marble pavement and gazed at the tiling mellowed by age,
+and at the round lead-covered dome above, the guide continued his
+explanations.
+
+"This edifice, called by the Moslems the Dome of the Rock," said he,
+"but better known as the Mosque of Omar, is built on the site of the
+Temple of Herod, and also on the site of the Temple of Solomon, which
+preceded that of Herod. Each side of the octagon is sixty-six feet in
+length, and the top of the dome is one hundred and fifteen feet above
+this platform."
+
+Underneath a small pavilion at the entrance, attendants laced slippers
+to our feet and then conducted us into the Mosque. On the floor lay
+precious Oriental rugs. Overhead in the dome, the light entered through
+richly stained glass windows, tinting and beautifying the interior and
+disclosing the mosaic decorations of the ceiling and the Arabic
+inscriptions on the walls. At one side was an exquisitely carved wooden
+pulpit inlaid with ivory and mother-of-pearl. In the centre of the
+Mosque a great rock, at least fifty feet long and almost as wide, rose
+to the height of our heads. A beautifully designed, gilded and bronzed
+iron railing prevented infidel fingers from touching the rock.
+
+[Illustration: WE WILL TAKE THE PICTURE AND INCLUDE THE TURKS IN IT.]
+
+"This mountain-top, the crown of Mount Moriah," said the Moslem
+dragoman, as we stood reverently before it, "is the place where the arm
+of Abraham was stayed as he lifted the knife to slay his son. This rock,
+in David's time, was the threshing floor of Araunah, whose oxen
+trampled out the grain upon it until the time when King David purchased
+the land and built here an altar to the Lord. When King Solomon erected
+the temple upon the site prepared and dedicated by his father David,
+this Holy Rock became the altar upon which the priests of the temple
+offered sacrifices. When Mohammed, the Prophet of God, took his flight
+to Heaven he rose from this sanctified place, which is nearer to Heaven
+than any other spot on earth, leaving as a memorial the impression of
+his foot which you now see there in the rock. The print of the hand in
+the rock near the footprint was made by the angel Gabriel when he
+prevented the rock from following the Prophet in his ascent."
+
+At the foot of the flight of steps which the tourists descended on their
+way from the marble platform of the Dome of the Rock to the Mosque of El
+Aksa, the tourists encountered Turkish photographers, who, hoping that
+the Americans would gladly make use of their services, had been
+patiently awaiting their arrival. But the tourists were well supplied
+with their own outfits, and these amateurs, disdaining the offered
+professional services, secured snapshots themselves.
+
+"What!" said one of the amateurs indignantly, "let the Turks take us?
+No! let some of the party stay on the steps and we will take the picture
+and include the Turks in it."
+
+While returning through the extensive grounds of the Haram, one of the
+tourists lighted a pipe. Immediately a Moslem guard approached and with
+unintelligible words, made it known by his frowning face and threatening
+gestures, that the pipe must be extinguished.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XII.
+
+THE CHURCH OF THE HOLY SEPULCHRE.
+
+
+The floor of the vast Church of the Holy Sepulchre is below the level of
+Christian Street. We descended to the church through a narrow alley
+about a hundred feet in length, which by slopes and steps led downward.
+On each side of this alley peddlers had stands for the sale of beads,
+rosaries, crucifixes, candles, and souvenirs, which they earnestly
+besought the visitors to buy. The church is so surrounded by other
+buildings that it could not be seen until we arrived at the foot of the
+alley, where a few steps to the left led down to a wide stone paved
+court. Even then only the rough stone facade and the top of the dome
+were visible. The door was guarded by Turkish soldiers, but they did not
+object to our entrance.
+
+Within the Church, in the centre of the vestibule, we paused beside a
+marble slab six feet in length, elevated slightly above the stone floor.
+A canopy overspread the marble and at the sides of the canopy stood six
+immense ornamented silver candlesticks rising higher than our heads. In
+these were tall candles.
+
+"This is the Stone of Unction," said the guide. "On this marble the body
+of Jesus lay while it was anointed for burial. Two of these candlesticks
+belong to the Greek Church, two to the Armenian Church, and two to the
+Latin Church. In this holy edifice each religious sect claims the
+privilege of taking part in the worship and in the care of the sacred
+places."
+
+Not far from the vestibule the guide halted, and pointing to a circle on
+the stone floor, said: "This circle marks the place where the Mother of
+Jesus stood at the time of the anointing."
+
+The Church of the Holy Sepulchre, we ascertained, is composed of many
+parts. A rotunda, sixty-six feet in diameter, occupies the center. Above
+this rises the dome, supported by eighteen large piers. On one side of
+this round room, an opening leads into a Greek church; on the other
+side, entrances between the piers lead into small chapels. Grouped
+around outside of these, but connected with the central rotunda, church,
+and small chapels, are other chapels, rooms, and sacred places, the
+whole covering a space of over two acres. In the centre of the rotunda,
+directly underneath the dome, stands a small marble building twenty-six
+feet long by eighteen feet broad, richly decorated with carvings,
+inscriptions, and figures of angels. At one end of this building there
+is a small door guarded by huge bronze candlesticks ten feet in height
+and over-hung with gold and silver lamps of curious oriental design.
+Three golden crosses surmount the front of this miniature building: one
+of Greek form furnished by the Greek Church; one of Roman form, by the
+Latins; and one of the Syrian shape, by the Armenians.
+
+"This small building," said the guide, "encloses the place of the
+Sepulchre. The interior is divided into two parts. The first you will
+enter is the Chapel of the Angel. The Tomb of the Savior is in the
+second part."
+
+[Illustration: I. ENTRANCE TO THE CHURCH OF THE SEPULCHRE.]
+
+[Illustration: II. THE VIA DOLOROSA.]
+
+Passing between the lines of huge candlesticks and underneath the
+clusters of overhanging lamps, we entered the small doorway and were in
+the Chapel of the Angel. In the centre of this small room stands the
+stone upon which, the guide said, the angel sat after rolling it away
+from the entrance to the Savior's tomb. Stooping low we passed singly
+through the narrow opening to the tomb. This is a small chamber about
+six feet square, the floor and walls of which are covered with white
+marble. At the right hand side of the tomb a marble slab about two feet
+wide extends the length of the chamber. This marble is much worn by the
+millions of kisses that have been tearfully and reverently pressed upon
+it by the pilgrims of many centuries. Two score of golden lamps,
+continually burning overhead, shed a soft but brilliant light upon the
+tomb. Our visit to the interior of the tomb was short; for not more than
+five persons may stand in it at one time, and other pilgrims from
+other lands were waiting their turn to enter.
+
+[Illustration: A CRUST IN HER HAND, A GRIN ON HER FACE.]
+
+[Illustration: WE WALKED THROUGH THE NARROW VIA DOLOROSA.]
+
+For a small fee the local guides provided us with tapers, for some of
+the chapels and grottoes within the vast cluster of the buildings of the
+church were dark, and in the gloomy recesses the holy places could not
+be seen without a light. In the dark grotto of the Syrian chapel our
+tapers shed a dim light on two tombs, which the guide said were those of
+Nicodemus and Joseph of Arimathea.
+
+"This is the Chapel of the Apparition," explained the guide, after
+leading us to another part of the church. "Here the Lord appeared to
+Mary, His mother, after the Resurrection. In a niche beside the high
+altar is a hole in the wall. If you hold your taper up to it you may see
+within the wall a part of the column to which the Savior was bound
+during the Flagellation. You may touch the sacred column with this round
+stick, provided for the purpose, if you wish to do so. The stick, being
+worn smooth by the numberless kisses that have been pressed upon it by
+the pilgrims after touching the holy column, can do it no harm."
+
+In a vestibule outside the chapel a star in the marble floor marks the
+place where Christ appeared to Mary Magdalene after the Resurrection,
+and a second star a few feet beyond marks the spot where Mary stood when
+she recognized the risen Lord.
+
+We passed from the rotunda into the Church of the Crusaders or Greek
+Church, through a wide opening directly opposite the door of the Holy
+Sepulchre. In this large chapel the walls and ceilings, the seats of
+the choir, the high altar, and the seat of the Patriarch in the rear
+of the altar, are composed of precious woods beautifully carved and
+ornamented with gold and silver and jewels. Hundreds of superb golden
+and silver lamps, varying in form and design, hang suspended from the
+ceiling at various heights. In the centre of the chapel, standing in the
+middle of a fancifully designed circle on the checkered marble floor, is
+an urn containing a marble ball.
+
+[Illustration: THE VERY STONES HIS SACRED FEET HAVE PRESSED.]
+
+"This ball marks the centre of the world," explained the guide, as we
+halted beside the urn. "About eight centuries ago certain wise and holy
+men ascertained, by calculation or by inspiration, that this spot is the
+exact centre of the world. It was marked in this manner so that the
+pilgrims coming here from all parts of the earth might see it and carry
+the knowledge of the wonderful discovery back with them to their various
+countries."
+
+Beyond the Greek Chapel we descended, by aid of our burning tapers, a
+flight of thirty stone steps to the ancient, dimly-lit Chapel of St.
+Helena.
+
+"When the Empress Helena was inspired to search for the true cross,"
+said the guide, "she employed workmen to excavate here. There is the
+seat on which she sat while superintending the search, and there below
+us is the excavation in which she found the three crosses, the crown of
+thorns, the nails, and the inscription."
+
+We peered into the darkness below but could see only a gloomy hole about
+eight feet deep and twenty feet across, a short flight of steps cut in
+the rock, and an altar at one side.
+
+[Illustration: THE OLD STREET OF SORROW LIES BURIED TWENTY FEET BELOW.]
+
+Reascending to the main floor, we halted at the Chapel of the Mocking.
+There the guide showed us the stone upon which the Jews made Jesus sit
+while they crowned Him with thorns. The guide then led the way up a
+flight of steps to the Chapel of Golgotha, which is within the great
+structure of the church but upon the summit of a rock fifteen feet
+higher than the main floor. At one side of this chapel, where the rock
+itself projects slightly above the floor, a figure of the Christ in
+dying agony is suspended upon the cross, and at the foot of the cross
+stand the figures of Mary, His mother, and St. John, both dejected and
+sorrowful. These figures appear to be made of gold and silver. The
+crowns on their heads are covered with diamonds, rubies, emeralds, and
+other precious stones. A hole in the rock surrounded by a gold plate
+marks the place where the original cross stood. On the right and left
+are the holes where stood the crosses of the thieves. A movable gold
+plate covers the crevice in the rock caused by the earthquake. In this
+chapel the pictures on the walls are encircled with diamonds and other
+precious stones. Adjoining this room is the Chapel of the Crucifixion,
+where, as the guide informed us, Christ was nailed to the cross, and
+close by is the place where the Virgin Mary stood during the
+Crucifixion.
+
+Descending a flight of steps to the main floor, we entered a small
+cavern-like chamber.
+
+"This," said the guide, "is the Tomb of Adam, and the little chapel
+beyond is the Tomb of Melchizedek."
+
+When one of the ladies, doubting the truth of these traditions,
+excitedly began to remonstrate with the guide, a clergyman in the party
+said to her: "It is not worth while to enter into a dispute with the
+guide. You cannot convince him that his assertions are incorrect. Let us
+leave the topic for discussion in the evening when we cannot go out
+sight-seeing."
+
+We departed from the Church of the Sepulchre with the intention of
+returning without a guide to inspect portions of the building more
+leisurely. Preceded by the guide, we walked through the narrow Via
+Dolorosa, pausing a moment at each of the fourteen stations, which mark
+the location of the historical and traditional events that occurred in
+the street of sorrow. After the guide had explained the route, one of
+the tourists devoutly said: "Little did I think a year ago that I should
+walk along the very path that has been stained by the blood drops of the
+Savior on His way to the Cross, and tread perhaps on the very stones
+that His sacred feet have pressed."
+
+[Illustration: AT THE ENTRANCE TO SOLOMON'S QUARRIES.]
+
+A few minutes later we were admitted to a convent on the Via Dolorosa.
+One of the gray-gowned nuns, after exhibiting and offering for sale
+laces and embroideries made by the sisters, led us to an excavation in
+the rear of the convent. There a courteous Abbess met us, and said: "The
+excavation made here uncovered a part of the original Via Dolorosa. The
+old way lies buried twenty feet below the level of the modern street
+known by that name, and at this place is one hundred feet to the right
+of the one on which you were walking."
+
+"You must bear in mind the history of Jerusalem," continued the Abbess
+in reply to our questions. "Forty years after the Crucifixion Titus
+captured the city, demolished the buildings, and slaughtered the
+inhabitants. Jerusalem became 'heaps' and a 'desolation' as predicted by
+the holy prophets. For a century thereafter a village of huts built upon
+the ruins occupied the site of the city; then the idolatrous Emperor
+Hadrian rebuilt the city, laying out the streets to suit his pagan
+ideas, and for two centuries it was a pagan city whose people were
+devoted to the worship of strange gods and regarded not the sacred
+places. Three hundred years after the Ascension of our Savior, the
+blessed St. Helena, mother of the Emperor Constantine, made a pilgrimage
+from Constantinople to Jerusalem. Inspired with holy zeal, she gave
+orders for the erection of churches on the sites of the Nativity at
+Bethlehem and the Ascension at Olivet. She prayerfully sought for the
+sacred tomb in which the Lord had been laid, and her efforts were
+rewarded by the finding of the true cross. She cleared away the
+accumulated rubbish and built the chapel on the holy ground, and that
+chapel has grown into the great Church of the Holy Sepulchre. Afterwards
+the locations of the events on the way to the cross were marked on the
+modern street to correspond as nearly as possible to the places on the
+ancient street which lay buried many feet below. The finding of a part
+of the true Via Dolorosa in the excavation within our enclosure has been
+a blessing to the convent."
+
+[Illustration: WITH FACE TURNED TO THE WALL, KISSING IT AND MUTTERING
+PRAYERS.]
+
+The Abbess deserved and received more than spoken thanks for her
+courtesy. We realized then the truth of her last words.
+
+During our walk we visited an old Armenian church, which was gaudily
+decorated with red brocade hangings and very antiquated paintings
+quaintly representing scenes from Bible history. In the court-yard of
+the church a young Armenian kindly offered us a pitcher of water, which
+he said had been brought from a spring outside the city for the use of
+the monks in the adjoining convent. We received it most gratefully, for
+the drinking water of Jerusalem is noted for impurity, and, as we had
+been cautioned against it, we had abstained from drinking water for
+three days.
+
+"Will it be difficult for the tourists to find their way through the
+narrow crooked streets of the city without a guide?" inquired one of the
+ladies of the dragoman at the noon hour.
+
+"Oh no!" he replied. "Please open your map. I notice you have one. You
+see that the city is divided into four marked sections by the two
+principal streets which cross each other at right angles: David street
+extending from the Jaffa Gate at the west, through the center of the
+city, to the Temple Area at the east; and Damascus street extending from
+the Damascus Gate on the north, through the center of the city, to the
+Zion Gate on the south. The bazaars and little stores that tourists
+visit are on these two streets, on Christian street near the Church of
+the Holy Sepulchre, and in the vicinity of the Jaffa Gate. The Church of
+the Holy Sepulchre is in the north-west section of the city, known as
+the Christian Quarter; the Via Dolorosa passes through the north-east
+section, called the Moslem Quarter; the Temple Area is on the east side;
+the Wailing Place of the Jews is near the south-west corner of the
+Temple Area, in the south-east or Jewish Quarter; and the Citadel is in
+the south-west of Armenian Quarter. Jerusalem is not a large city. David
+Street is only half a mile in length, and Damascus Street from the gate
+on the north to the gate on the south is but three-fourths of a mile
+long."
+
+"This afternoon," said the guide at the noon hour on Friday, "those of
+you who desire to do so may go with me to the Wailing Place of the Jews.
+The Turkish authorities do not permit Jews to enter the Temple Area so
+the Jews, on Friday afternoons, congregate in a narrow court, outside
+and adjoining the western wall which encloses the Temple Area, to mourn
+over the downfall of their beloved Zion and pray for the return of
+Jewish dominion over the land of their fathers, and for the renewal of
+the ancient glory of the City of David."
+
+When we arrived at the Wailing Place, we found about a hundred Jewish
+men, women, and children assembled in the court, with faces turned to
+the wall, the men at one end of the court, the women at the other. Some
+of the mourners pressed their faces against the wall, kissing it and
+muttering prayers; some, as the guide explained to us, were reading the
+Talmud; some reciting verses from the Lamentations of Jeremiah; and some
+chanting the penitential Psalms of David. Others we saw weeping, the
+tears running down their faces, while one or two looked around with
+curious gaze at the strangers.
+
+[Illustration: PITIED THOSE MISERABLE LEPERS AT THE GATE.]
+
+Thence we returned through portions of the Mohammedan and Jewish
+quarters of the city. The narrow streets through which we passed,--if
+passage-ways ten feet wide may be called streets,--are lined with little
+stores. The stocks of provisions, groceries, bread, vegetables, and
+general merchandise for native consumption are displayed in the open
+fronts of the shallow store-rooms and the proprietors sit or stand
+outside waiting for customers, like huge spiders waiting for their prey,
+or with loud voices and many gesticulations bargain with the buyers.
+
+The streets of the Mohammedan Quarter are filthy; those of the Jewish
+Quarter are worse.
+
+"Are these alleys ever swept or cleaned?" inquired one of the disgusted
+visitors.
+
+"Oh, yes!" answered the guide, "the city, being built on the hills, has
+a natural drainage. Whenever there is a heavy rain the flowing water
+washes the streets."
+
+"Well," said the visitor, "the city of Constantinople has the reputation
+of being the filthiest city in Europe, but it has a brigade of canine
+street cleaners to assist the rainfalls in cleaning the thoroughfares.
+If the city of Jerusalem were in Europe, it could easily claim the
+leading place in respect to filth; for dogs are few here and heavy rains
+do not appear to be frequent."
+
+The tramp through these quarters was not agreeable to any of the senses.
+The ears were annoyed with the jargon of many dialects; the harsh voices
+of the natives, the loud exclamations of the dealers, and the whining
+cries of the beggars for backsheesh. The eyes were offended by the sight
+of the crowds of dirty beggars, who stretched out hands in appeal and
+tried to clutch the garments of the tourists with their dirty fingers,
+until disgust drove away all feelings of pity. The odors from the foul
+thoroughfares, from the messes of soft cheese and mixtures of eatables
+offered for sale, from the discarded and decaying cauliflower leaves
+under neath the stalls, from the pipes of Turkish tobacco, and from the
+donkeys and unbathed human beings with whom the tourists came in close
+contact, were inhaled with loathing. The uneven, stone-cobbled paving of
+the narrow streets without sidewalks, the steps up and down the grades,
+and the slippery condition of the muddy surface when wet caused weary
+feet.
+
+"I will not give away another piaster," exclaimed a lady whose purse had
+been drawn upon frequently during our tramp. "I never met such
+disagreeable beggars. There were many beggars in other cities, but they
+did not whine and display their dirty rags so disgustingly as these do.
+I pitied those miserable lepers at the gate, but when I threw them some
+money they crowded around and tried to touch me with their diseased
+hands, instead of keeping at a distance and crying, 'Unclean! Unclean!'"
+
+The beggars were the most objectionable feature of the city; they
+persisted in following visitors and it was almost impossible to drive
+them away. When rid of one lot, others soon took their place. Repulsive
+cripples insisted on calling attention to their deformities; sore-eyed
+children clamored for assistance; and little tots with dirty,
+fly-covered faces, shrilly prattled "Backsheesh." The streets were full
+of these wretched creatures; they congregated near the sacred places and
+there the clamor was so annoying that the tourists had little
+opportunity for contemplation until they were inside the buildings and
+away from the beggars' entreaties.
+
+[Illustration: PILGRIMS FROM EVERY QUARTER OF THE GLOBE.]
+
+We made several visits to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre in order to
+observe the people; to view quietly and leisurely the gorgeous
+decorations, especially those in the Greek Chapel where each visit
+disclosed new beauties; and to see the jewels, precious gems, and
+pictures encircled in diamonds, in the Chapel of Golgotha.
+
+[Illustration: PASSED OUT THROUGH THE DAMASCUS GATE.]
+
+During one of these visits we sat for awhile on a bench by the wall of
+the church not far from the entrance to the Sepulchre. It was
+interesting to note the diversity of costumes and to watch the
+difference in the behavior of the tourists and pilgrims of the various
+nationalities.
+
+[Illustration: I. FIELDS WERE COVERED WITH STONES.]
+
+[Illustration: II. FAR BELOW LAY THE VALLEY OF JEHOSHAPHAT.]
+
+"Notice that Russian group," said a companion as a party of Russian
+pilgrims entered the church.
+
+These people from the North, long-haired, heavy-bearded, long-booted,
+heavy-coated men, and short-frocked, heavy-shod women had come there, we
+could plainly see, on a holy pilgrimage to the tomb of their Savior,
+believing and trusting in the reality of everything they saw. At the
+Stone of Unction they prostrated themselves and kissed the stone slab,
+and as they rose we could see the shaggy-bearded men wiping away the
+tears with their rough hands. Then, with uncovered heads, they slowly
+approached the entrance to the Sepulchre, bowed down, crossed
+themselves, knelt inside, and after kissing the marble tomb, backed out,
+bowing and crossing themselves until well away from the tomb.
+
+"The people of other nationalities outwardly show more reverence for the
+sacred places than do those of our own country," commented my companion.
+"The guards have just censured that group of Americans on the other side
+of the room. I could not hear what was said, but the actions of the
+guards spoke louder than words, and I noticed that the loud talking
+ceased at once."
+
+The party of Americans came laughing and chatting toward the Sepulchre
+and entered the tomb without any appearance of reverence in their
+manner,--a striking contrast to the devout Russian pilgrims. Other
+Americans, however, following, entered the tomb silently, and came out
+with a look of awe upon their faces. One of these told us that he had
+placed some postal cards and letters on the tomb to be blessed by
+contact with it before mailing them to his friends. Another had taken
+some bunches of flowers and laid them on the tomb for the same purpose
+before pressing them for souvenirs. A party of Germans stood near us for
+awhile, apparently arguing in low tones over some statement of the
+guide, and then quietly and with uncovered heads advanced and entered
+the Sepulchre. Some Italians knelt for a long time before the door, and
+Africans, Greeks, and natives of countries unknown to us, bowed or
+crossed their foreheads or breasts before the entrance. No other
+nationality, however, showed such zeal and intensity of feeling as did
+the Russian peasants.
+
+On Saturday afternoon we visited the Church of the Holy Sepulchre to be
+present at the special service held on that day. We found that the
+number of guards at the door had been doubled, and that companies of
+armed Turkish soldiers had been stationed within to preserve order in
+the assembled throng of sight-seers and worshipers and to keep a
+passage-way open through which the expected processions might pass.
+Pushing our way through the crowd we obtained a good position behind
+some Syrian women and children who, attired in gala costumes, held
+unlighted candles in their hands. At the Place of Sepulchre the oriental
+lamps above the door and the candles in the huge candlesticks had been
+lighted for the special service, brilliantly illuminating the marble
+front of that small building and bringing into clear relief every detail
+of the carved ornamentation. In the Greek Chapel the golden lamps and
+the candles at the altar were burning, and the chapel was ablaze with
+reflected glory.
+
+"They are coming," whispered some one as the tramping of feet on the
+stone floor was heard.
+
+A procession of Greek priests in gorgeous garments, swinging censers of
+smoking incense and bearing aloft a golden cross, marched to the
+Sepulchre, made obeisance there, then proceeded slowly around the
+building several times and entered the Greek Chapel where a short
+service was held. After the Greeks had left the building, a procession
+of Armenian priests appeared clad in black silk robes and peculiar
+looking black silk hoods draped over their heads. They were led by a
+venerable Patriarch arrayed in a magnificent embroidered robe. The
+Patriarch knelt and kissed the Stone of Unction, then the procession
+marched singing to the Sepulchre, which they entered, two priests at a
+time. After this part of the ceremony was concluded the priests marched
+singing three times around the room, while a bell in the gallery merrily
+clanged an accompaniment. When the Armenians had withdrawn, a procession
+of Roman Catholics entered singing. The chanting was accompanied softly
+by an organ in an adjoining chapel. The censer bearers waved their
+smoking bowls until the whole place was fragrant with the odor of the
+incense. Tonsured monks with sandaled feet, in gowns of brown, girt with
+hempen cord; censer bearers, cross bearers, brazier bearers, and choir
+boys in white embroidered surplices and skirts of scarlet; priests in
+black; bishops in purple; and higher dignitaries in capes of fur and
+long-trained robes,--all these marched round and round bearing lighted
+candles and chanting the ritual to the strains of the organ, and then
+proceeded toward the Latin Chapel. Our Syrian neighbor and her children
+lighted their candles and joined other worshipers with candles in the
+rear of this procession, and we followed to the Chapel where all knelt
+for service.
+
+[Illustration: DAVID STREET IS ONLY HALF A MILE IN LENGTH.]
+
+Palestine appeared to us to be a land where history and tradition were
+so curiously mixed that it was difficult to know where history ended and
+tradition began. During our tramps around the city of Jerusalem and its
+vicinity the guides pointed out the spring where the Virgin Mary washed
+the clothes of the infant Jesus in the same way that we saw other women
+in the East washing clothes on the banks of public streams; the hill of
+evil counsel where the avaricious disciple had been tempted by gold to
+betray his Master, and the field where the horror-stricken traitor ended
+his life; the place just without the Gate of St. Stephen where the
+sainted Stephen knelt and prayed for his persecutors until the stones
+cast by the infuriated Jews crushed out his life; the spot where the
+Apostle James was beheaded, commemorated by the church of St. James
+which now stands on that location; the large room outside the Zion Gate
+in which the Lord washed the disciples' feet and partook of the Last
+Supper; the tomb of the wayward, long-haired Absalom, and the mausoleum
+that covers the resting-place of his father, King David; the footprint
+of Jesus in the rock and the hole made by His staff on the Mount of
+Olives; the imprints of the Savior's feet in the rocky floor made during
+the time of the scourging; the site of the house in which the Virgin
+lived with the disciple John after the Crucifixion.
+
+Palestine was noted in olden times as a land flowing with milk and
+honey. At the Casa Nova we drank of the milk, the milk of the
+black-haired goats that fed along the hillsides, and ate of the honey,
+which was of delicious flavor. The Syrian waiters who served our meals
+and also cared for our bedrooms were picturesquely dressed in long gowns
+of blue striped material falling to their ankles, and encircled with
+bright sashes, and these men at all times, whether making beds or
+serving tables, wore on their heads the red fez of Turkish subjects. The
+managers of the Hospice, the Franciscan monks, wore the garb in which
+the monks of that order are always seen, brown gown, rope girdle, rosary
+with pendant cross, and sandals.
+
+On Sunday a cold rain fell during the day, making it unpleasant for
+sight-seeing and confining the travelers to the house during most of the
+day.
+
+"How disappointing this is to be kept in the house by the rain,"
+exclaimed a discontented tourist while watching the rain drops glide
+down the window-pane.
+
+"Have you thought," said another who was busily engaged with guide-book
+and pencil, "that until to-day not one unpleasant day has interfered
+with our trip? The temperature has been neither uncomfortably warm nor
+disagreeably cold, but just delightful for the exertion of
+sight-seeing."
+
+The tourists having made a request for some heat in the house, one of
+the gowned Arab servants carried a brazier into the reception room,
+placed a handful of charcoal in it and lighted a fire. As we gathered
+around the little fire trying to warm our hands, one could realize the
+scene many centuries ago, in the Palace of Caiaphas, when the soldiers
+coming in at midnight from the cold hills, kindled a fire in the midst
+of the hall, and Peter, shivering from cold and fear, joined the group
+around the brazier to warm himself.
+
+"I have been trying for the past three days," remarked an elderly
+clergyman, "to realize that these bare hills were once 'a land flowing
+with milk and honey,' producing 'grapes, pomegranates, and figs' in
+abundance. To-day I have been thinking of the changes that the tempests
+of a few short years have made in the hills of my own native state, New
+Hampshire, since the rapacious lumber-men have been denuding our
+mountains of the forests. There, the unprotected soil is being washed
+away by the heavy rains, gulleys have been formed, the brooks have
+diminished or dried up, and the part of our once beautiful White
+Mountains that has been cut over is desolate indeed. Now, since thinking
+of the changes that have occurred in a decade at home. I can more fully
+realize the changes that centuries have made here.
+
+"Looking backward," said he, "I can see more clearly in my mind the
+picture that David saw with the eye of an artist, and described with the
+heart of a poet, when these bare, gray, rocky, treeless hills were
+crowned with forests that protected the soil from the beating storms;
+when these slopes, now furrowed with gulleys and spread with stones,
+were covered with orchards and clad with verdure, where the flocks might
+'lie down midst pastures of tender grass;' and when these dried up
+waterways were purling brooks, where the flocks were 'led beside the
+waters of quietness.' I believe that David's description of this country
+was a true picture of the land as it appeared then. 'Thou waterest the
+ridges thereof abundantly; thou settlest the furrows thereof; thou
+makest it soft with showers; thou blessest the springing thereof. The
+pastures are clothed with flocks; the valleys also are covered over
+with corn; they shout for joy, they also sing.'"
+
+[Illustration: WHEN THESE BARE HILLS WERE COVERED WITH ORCHARDS AND CLAD
+WITH VERDURE.]
+
+"In those days the vicinity of Jerusalem was beautiful with palm trees,"
+continued the clergyman, "and the City of Palms was but fifteen miles
+away. Now the City of Palms is a squalid, unhealthful village, and in
+the vicinity of Jerusalem it is difficult to obtain a leaf of the palm."
+
+The low spirits caused by the drizzling rain during our last evening in
+the Sacred City were increased by telegraphic news received from Jaffa.
+The telegram stated that the weather was stormy and the waves running
+high, and that if the sea did not subside we might not be able to
+embark. This information caused considerable anxiety among the timid
+members of the party and many surmises were made as to the developments
+of the following day. As usual, all the arrangements for our departure
+had been carefully made in advance by our managers. We were notified
+that the Syrian bell boys would waken us at five o'clock, and our
+baggage must be ready at five-thirty; breakfast would be served at six
+o'clock; the carriages would be at the Jaffa Gate at six-thirty; and the
+train would leave the Jerusalem station at seven.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII.
+
+CAIRO AND THE PYRAMIDS.
+
+
+On Monday morning, after enjoying our usual breakfast at the Casa Nova
+of boiled eggs, rolls and pure honey, good coffee, and delicious
+oranges, we bade farewell to our tonsured hosts and the staff of gowned
+attendants. The carriages were waiting near the Jaffa Gate to convey us
+to the station. The train moved off promptly at the appointed hour, and
+looking backward, we took our farewell glimpse of the Tower of David and
+the yellow walls of the Holy City.
+
+During the three hours' ride to Jaffa the threatening clouds passed
+away, the sun re-appeared, the rough winds changed to soft breezes, and
+our depressed spirits rose correspondingly. By the time the orange
+groves in the suburbs of Jaffa came into sight, the tourists were in a
+gay and cheerful humor. But when we arrived at the pier of Jaffa, we
+discovered that the sea still felt the effects of the gale. The surf was
+rolling high and the angry waves were breaking violently over the
+ugly-looking rocks in the harbor, hiding them for an instant from view
+and sending the snowy spray high into the air. As we looked out toward
+the Moltke riding at anchor a mile away, many of the gay faces became
+sober. The boatmen holding the tossing boats to the pier urged us to
+embark.
+
+  "But timorous mortals start and shrink to cross the narrow sea,
+  And linger trembling on the brink and fear to launch away"
+
+"Oh, I cannot venture! Go without me! Leave me behind!" exclaimed one of
+the ladies, trembling and almost fainting through fear. "Those black
+rocks momentarily emerging and disappearing seem like the heads of
+terrible monsters waiting to devour us as soon as we come within their
+reach."
+
+"Do not be alarmed," said one of the officials on the pier,
+encouragingly. "The sea, as you say, has a threatening look, but I
+assure you that if there were any danger we would not permit you to
+attempt the passage. These Syrian boatmen have been carrying passengers
+for years and know every rock in the harbor. They brought the Damascus
+tourists from the Moltke without mishap this morning when the sea was
+rougher than now. Trust the boatmen and you will soon be safely on board
+the steamer."
+
+As our boat in its passage over the stormy billows plunged downward into
+the trough of the sea, and horizon, ship, and land were hidden from
+view, we thought that the uplifted, on-coming crests of the waves would
+engulf the boat beneath them; but, expertly handled by the trained
+rowers, the craft rose with each immense surge and safely passed the
+breakers. The Syrian boatmen, who had been continually chanting their
+hymns to Allah while plying their oars, suddenly stopped singing.
+
+"Bachsheesh! Backsheesh!" they cried, ceasing to row, while one of them,
+doffing his fez, passed it around the boat for contributions. The
+passengers, grateful for safety, dropped their coins into the fez;
+again the oars were put in motion, the chant was resumed, and in a few
+minutes the boats were alongside the vessel.
+
+[Illustration: SHE WAS WASHING CLOTHES IN THE CANAL.]
+
+Then came the difficulty of getting on board the steamer; for the little
+boat lay underneath the platform at the foot of the ship's ladder,
+tossed by the billows. As each heaving swell, however, bore the boat
+upward, two sturdy seamen on the platform, reaching down, grasped a
+passenger's arms and drew him up while the boatmen assisted from
+underneath. In this way, one with each wave, the tourists safely
+embarked. The passage from the pier to the steamer affected the tourists
+in various ways: many were frightened, notwithstanding the assertion of
+the official that the dangers were more apparent than real; others were
+exhilarated by the tossing waves and enjoyed the thrilling experience.
+
+"I was so interested in watching the muscular development of the boatmen
+as they pulled at the oars, and in admiring the dexterity and skill with
+which they managed the boat, that I did not think of danger," remarked a
+man who had been stroke oar on a college crew.
+
+While the tourists were being transferred to the ship, the band on deck
+was playing "Home, Sweet Home," and the Captain and other officers
+standing at the head of the stairway gave a friendly greeting to the
+wanderers as they came on board.
+
+"It is pleasant to be welcomed back in this friendly manner," remarked
+one of the ramblers to another as they entered their cabin, "and then it
+is so homelike here in our stateroom, with our photographs and
+nick-nacks pinned around the walls."
+
+[Illustration: BELOW THE CITADEL WE SAW AN OPEN-AIR MARKET.]
+
+A busy afternoon of re-packing followed the departure from Jaffa, for on
+the following day the tourists were to leave the steamer at Alexandria
+to remain twelve days in Egypt. Clothing that was considered suitable
+for the climate of that warmer region was carefully selected and
+condensed into the smaller receptacles, and every article that the
+tourists supposed would not be required was left in the staterooms.
+
+On Tuesday morning, March tenth, at seven o'clock, the Moltke was
+anchored in the commodious port of Alexandria, which is enclosed by long
+stone breakwaters that have been built into the sea to protect the
+harbor. Many vessels were at the docks or at anchor in the port, and a
+handsome white yacht flying the imperial flag of Germany lay within a
+stone's throw of our steamer.
+
+"The Crown Prince of the German Empire is visiting Egypt and that is his
+yacht," said one of the officers.
+
+The morning was bright and clear. It was a delight to breathe the warm
+salt air and feel its invigoration. Overhead the sky was brilliantly
+blue and the sea reflected it in various hues.
+
+"Did you ever see such wonderful coloring on the waters of sea or
+river?" asked an enthusiastic beholder. "Near by the sea sparkles in the
+morning sunlight in azure and olive and darkens into sapphire and
+emerald, and there beyond the breakwater it changes to tints of violet
+and purple. I have heard that the colors of the Mediterranean are
+beautiful; now I know they are."
+
+The row boats that were to carry us ashore gathered around the steamer.
+The bare-footed boatmen, with faces of various shades from light yellow
+to intense black, were attired in red fez, white bloomers, and long
+red sweaters.
+
+[Illustration: AT THE NILE BRIDGE WE WAITED FOR THE DRAW TO CLOSE.]
+
+At the custom house on the dock the custom officials accepted the
+statement of the managers that the baggage of the tourists contained
+nothing dutiable, and the baggage was passed without examination. A
+special train was on the pier ready to convey the party to Cairo.
+Beggars and peddlers attempted to approach the train to ask alms or sell
+their wares, but were driven away with whips by black Nubian soldiers in
+dark blue uniforms, who appeared to take delight in snapping at the bare
+legs of the intruders.
+
+It was just noon when our train, the second special section, moved out
+of Alexandria through long rows of large warehouses; for Alexandria is
+the chief seaport of Egypt and exports the cotton, grain, sugar, rice,
+and other productions of the valley of the Nile. As the train passed
+rapidly southward through the delta of the Nile, we realized that we
+were in a land entirely different from any that we had previously
+visited. The trip of one hundred and thirty miles to Cairo will be
+remembered by the tourists as a panoramic succession of interesting
+pictures of agricultural life. The land on both sides of the railway was
+a black, sandy loam, level almost as a floor, intersected and broken
+only by the canals and irrigation ditches. For some distance out of
+Alexandria the Mahmudiyeh canal was in sight.
+
+"There is a scene that is familiar to me!" exclaimed one of the party.
+"A landscape hanging in the art gallery of our city represents the light
+blue water of a canal mirroring tufted palms and wing-like sails. It
+was painted by a noted artist, who has successfully reproduced many
+beautiful Egyptian views."
+
+[Illustration: "WANT A GUIDE? WANT A GUIDE?" THEY INQUIRED.]
+
+Nile boats with breeze-filled canvas, caravans of camels on the
+embankment of the canal, and trains of donkeys laden with marketing for
+the city by the sea, seemed stationary as we rushed by. The land
+appeared to be thoroughly cultivated. There were no fences or waste
+corners in sight. Every foot of workable ground was utilized for raising
+crops.
+
+[Illustration: EACH ARAB'S CART CONTAINED HIS WIVES.]
+
+"Irrigation makes this almost rainless region the most fruitful on the
+globe," remarked one of the managers of the tour. "By the aid of
+irrigation the Egyptian farmers can raise two or three crops every year.
+To do so, however, they must labor incessantly and give the land
+thorough cultivation. Irrigation with them is not opening the gates of a
+sluiceway and letting the water flow over the land. It means severe
+labor, pumping the water up from the ditches, canals, or river, in which
+the surface of the water may be ten or twenty feet below the surface
+of the land. The pumps are the same kind that the people used in the
+days of the Pharaohs, and the methods of cultivation are the same as in
+those ancient times, without modern agricultural implements or modern
+machinery. Three crops, therefore, does not mean great prosperity, but
+simply enables the Egyptian farmer to pay taxes that would seem enormous
+to an American farmer, and then to have a surplus sufficient to supply
+his very moderate wants."
+
+[Illustration: WHERE EGYPTIANS OF MANY TYPES WERE ASSEMBLED.]
+
+The monotony of the level stretches was varied by groups of palm trees
+whose tall rough trunks upheld graceful heads of outstretched, drooping
+leaves, and by villages of small mud huts roofed with stalks of
+sugar-cane, sufficient, we imagined, in that dry country, to protect the
+inmates from the burning noonday heat, and to shelter them from the
+chilling night dews. Occasionally the train stopped at large and
+apparently prosperous towns, where there were substantial stone
+buildings and busy factories. At these stations Arab venders offered
+coffee, lemonade, fruit, and other refreshments to appease the hunger
+and thirst of the travelers.
+
+The fields were full of life. Each cultivated acre had its dark-hued
+laborers with hoes, or bare-legged toilers drawing water from the
+ditches for irrigating the thirsty land, or plowmen guiding teams of
+ungainly, striding camels or dark gray, crooked-horned oxen. In the lush
+meadows many of these curious-looking animals were grazing. The camels,
+the small donkeys, and the gray oxen or water-buffaloes as the natives
+called them, tied to stakes, were restricted to the pasturage within
+reach of their tethers. Along some of the irrigating canals naked
+dark-skinned men and boys splashed about in the water, or stood
+unabashed on the bank of the stream, gazing at the passing train.
+
+[Illustration: I. SMALL AND HAZY IN THE DISTANCE.]
+
+[Illustration: II. "MADAM MIGHT DROP HER SHAWL."]
+
+"Look at that scene," cried one of the passengers. "I wonder whether our
+cattle at home would not enjoy similar treatment."
+
+In the canal some naked boys were mounted on a buffalo, and near them an
+Arab, also in the water, was scrubbing the back of another buffalo, to
+the evident enjoyment of that animal.
+
+As we approached Cairo, the great valley of the delta narrowed, and
+mountain boundaries loomed up in the distance. Far away to the right the
+tops of the Pyramids, looking very small, silhouetted the sky. On the
+left, high hills broke the landscape, and presently the buildings and
+minarets that crowned the hills were outlined on the horizon. Handsome
+villas, beautiful gardens, good roads, and increasing traffic in the
+suburbs indicated the nearness of a prosperous city.
+
+Just four hours after leaving Alexandria our train entered the station
+at Cairo, where hotel-runners, cab-men, and porters gave the passengers
+a noisy reception. Complete arrangements having been made in advance for
+our party, we had time to take in the novel sights leisurely. The party
+had been divided into two sections; one section booked for the famous
+Shepheard's Hotel, the other section for the Hotel Grand Continental.
+The avenues through which we were driven on the way to the Hotel were
+bordered with large shade trees. The streets were full of life. The
+buildings were modern, seemingly of French style, with a mixture of
+Oriental architecture.
+
+[Illustration: I. THE SAND HAD BEEN SHOVELED AWAY FROM THE SPHINX.]
+
+[Illustration: II. THE GRANITE TEMPLE. REMAINS EMBEDDED.]
+
+"What a contrast," said one, thinking aloud of the city we had left but
+two days ago, as our carriage glided smoothly over the well paved
+highways. "Did two cities ever present a stronger contrast than
+Jerusalem, with streets narrow, rough, filthy, and depressing to the
+spirits, and Cairo, with avenues broad, smooth, clean, and pleasing to
+the senses? The interest in the city of Jerusalem had to be stirred by
+the memorials of the sacred events of the past; the discomforts of the
+present had to be overlooked. The city of Cairo appeals to us at once as
+a pleasure ground with attractions on all sides, and the promise of
+comfortable surroundings."
+
+The hotels of Cairo are famous throughout the world for the magnificence
+of their appointments, the cosmopolitan character of their guests, and
+the novelty of the sights that may be seen at their doors. When we drove
+up to the Hotel Grand Continental, a military band was giving an
+afternoon concert in the beautiful Esbekieh Gardens opposite the hotel.
+On the wide pavement in front of the piazza of the hotel, dragomen in
+elaborate Arabic costumes were offering their services as guides or
+interpreters. "Want a guide? want a guide?" they inquired of all
+strangers who they thought might need such service. Arab urchins, whose
+hands may have once been clean, offered picture postal cards for sale;
+bootblacks solicited patronage and beggars asked for alms; match
+peddlers endeavored to dispose of their little boxes; flower sellers
+thrust their bouquets forward into notice; dealers in scarabs and
+miniature mummy cases proclaimed the virtues of their charms; and
+venders of beads offered endless varieties of their fanciful, colored
+Egyptian wares. Interest in the scene was heightened by the variety of
+the characteristic flowing gowns peculiar to the natives of Egypt. On
+the piazza, groups of guests were taking afternoon tea, and listening to
+the music in the park opposite, or, seated comfortably in wicker chairs,
+found amusement in watching the animated throng on the sidewalk; in
+observing the arrivals and departures on donkeys and in victorias; and
+in viewing the constant panoramic procession on the street.
+
+[Illustration: MAY TAKE CAMELS OR DONKEYS AND RIDE.]
+
+The head porter, in gorgeous uniform, received us with the air of a
+proprietor; Arab bell boys in bright red silk gowns responded to the
+call of the manager and conducted us to our rooms; and Arab men in white
+gowns brought up our luggage. There were French maids on each floor to
+attend to the calls of the ladies; but Arab men in spotless robes made
+the beds, cared for the rooms, and took the place of chambermaids. These
+Arab men were seated in the wide halls when not employed at their tasks,
+but whenever a guest approached they rose and stood at attention,
+appearing very tall in their white drapery. In the dining room the
+English head waiters in dress suits contrasted strangely with the
+dark-skinned Arab waiters in handsome silk gowns of various colors.
+
+On the evening we arrived in Cairo the large gardens of Shepheard's
+Hotel were beautifully illuminated with thousands of electric lights and
+hundreds of Chinese lanterns festooned among the shrubbery. Two military
+bands alternately played selections from favorite composers during the
+evening. An exhibition of fire-works made a brilliant display, and this
+was followed by a "battle of confetti" in the garden and a dance in the
+hotel. Our party bought packages of paper confetti and joined the gay
+crowd of merrymakers in casting handfuls of the colored squares of paper
+at each passer-by. At the dance the great variety of handsome uniforms
+worn by the English officers attracted our attention, the red jackets of
+some of the men being particularly noticeable among the light gowns of
+the French and English women.
+
+Plans to utilize our time to the best advantage were carefully made, so
+that during our one week in Cairo we might give precedence to the places
+of particular interest, and see them at the most suitable hours.
+
+[Illustration: THE CLIMBERS DWINDLED IN SIZE.]
+
+[Illustration: AFTER REACHING THE TOP OF CHEOPS.]
+
+When we visited the Egyptian Museum, the wealth of antiquities displayed
+within its commodious and well-lighted halls held us with a grasp from
+which it was difficult to break loose. The mummies of the old kings who
+had been dead for thirty centuries urged us to remain. "We will tell you
+the story of remote ages," they seemed to say. There Ramses II, with
+gray hair, thin beard, and pierced ears, the great conqueror, builder of
+temples, erector of statues, and maker of history, lay peacefully at
+rest. His lips were firmly closed, his hands folded across his breast.
+His high forehead indicated the judgment with which he governed, and the
+strong nose suggested the greatness of his power. And near him, in
+hieroglyphic-covered coffins, reposed Seti I, constructor of magnificent
+edifices; Ramses III, oppressor of the Israelites; and many other famous
+kings, queens, priests, and warriors. The wooden statue of a village
+sheik with good-natured face and crystal eyes, and the tinted
+limestone, lifelike statues of Prince Rahotep and his wife Nofret, could
+they have spoken, might have revealed the secrets of ages long before
+the times of the mummies; and the gray stone figure of Chepren, which
+was found in the well of the temple of Gizeh, might have explained the
+mysteries of pyramid and sphinx.
+
+[Illustration: IN THE UNIVERSITY THE STUDENTS WERE SEATED ON THE FLOOR.]
+
+[Illustration: THE PENNIES APPARENTLY CANNOT BE FOUND.]
+
+From the parapet of the citadel which crowns the heights above Cairo, we
+gazed at the extended view of roofs, mosques, minarets, and tombs of
+caliphs, and listened to the story of the massacre of the Mamelukes and
+the legend of the one who marvelously escaped by leaping on his horse
+over the parapet to the ground sixty feet below. To convince us of the
+truth of this legend, the dragoman showed the impression of the horse's
+hoofs in the stone coping on the wall. The large Mosque of Mehemet Ali,
+on the heights, is built of pure alabaster and carpeted with costly
+rugs. The older Mosque of Sultan Ahmed, at the foot of the citadel hill,
+is built of sandstone taken from the Pyramids, and, although partly in
+ruins and with bare stone floors, it is yet beautiful.
+
+"This mosque make Ahmed glad. He not want another built like it, so he
+chop hand off architect," explained our good-natured dragoman, whose
+control of English was limited, but he endeavored to relate the legends
+and give information.
+
+While returning from the citadel we came by an open-air market, where
+Egyptians of many types were gathered in groups around piles of
+merchandise and vegetables. Here our camera man, taking advantage of an
+opportune moment, caught a dense mass of faces before the natives became
+aware of his presence.
+
+On Friday afternoon we visited the Monastery El Akbar to see the
+religious exercises of the Twirling Dervishes, which take place there
+every Friday afternoon. The shrill music, the fanatic faces, the
+obeisance to the leader, the whirling men, the naked feet, and the
+never-touching skirts, just as we beheld them, are pictured vividly by
+Canon Rawnsley, in his "Idylls and Lyrics of the Nile."
+
+
+          THE DANCING DERVISHES.
+
+    The shrillest pipe man ever played
+    Was making music overhead,
+    And in a circle, down below,
+    Sat men whose faces seemed to show
+    Another world was all their trade.
+
+    Then up they rose, and one by one,
+    Shook skirts down, following him who led
+    To where the elder brother sat--
+    All gaberdine and conic hat,
+    Then bowed, and off for Heaven they spun.
+
+    Their hands were crossed upon their breast,
+    Their eyes were closed as if for sleep,
+    The naked foot that beat the floor,
+    To keep them spinning more and more,
+    Was careless of all need for rest.
+
+    Soon every flowing skirt began
+    Its milk-white spinning plane to keep,
+    Each brother of the holy band
+    Spun in and out with lifted hand,
+    A Teetotem no longer man.
+
+    The gray old man, their leader, went
+    Throughout his spinning fellowship,
+    And reverently to the ear,
+    Of every dervish circling near,
+    He spake a soft encouragement.
+
+    The piper piped a shriller psalm,
+    The dancers thro' their mystery moved,
+    Untouched, untouching, and the twirl
+    That set our giddy heads awhirl,
+    Served but to give their faces calm.
+
+
+We drove from Cairo to the Pyramids of Gizeh, a distance of ten miles,
+over a substantial macadamized avenue. This broad highway, elevated
+eight or ten feet above the adjoining lands in order to protect it from
+the flood of water during the time of inundation, was bordered for seven
+miles with large shade trees, and was in perfect condition. On one side
+of the avenue an electric tramway extended from the bridge at Cairo to
+the Mena House Hotel near the Pyramids.
+
+"We might have reached our destination more quickly in the cars," said
+our manager as an electric car sped by us, "but at such speed we should
+have missed much that is strange and curious. We thought it preferable
+to take the trip in open carriages."
+
+The scenes along the way as we drove to the Pyramids were indeed novel.
+In the gardens in the environs of the city, the cabbage, onions, beans,
+and strawberries were in readiness for the market, and in the fields,
+the clover and forage plants, dark in color and luxuriant in growth,
+were ready for the sickle, but the wheat was yet green. The fellahs--the
+Egyptian farm-laborers--were cutting the rank clover in square patches
+and stacking it on the backs of camels or donkeys. Along the road
+stalked camels beneath huge stacks of fragrant clover, and donkeys so
+laden with newly-cut forage that only their heads and feet could be
+seen. A crooked-horned ox with an Arab farmer on his back ambled by. A
+caravan of camels laden with blankets, tents, and military supplies,
+accompanied by a guard of white-helmeted English soldiers, almost
+blocked the road as they marched past. Bronzed-faced natives seated in
+the shade dealt in sugar-cane stalks, cutting pieces of cane from the
+pile of stalks beside them as they were sold. Turbaned Arabs sauntered
+by, chewing with evident enjoyment the sweet stalks which they had
+purchased. Bedouins from the desert rode past on camels bedecked with
+tasseled trappings, swaying back and forth as they rode. Women, partly
+veiled, coming from the wells, balanced on their heads large earthen
+bottles filled with water.
+
+"There are many pyramids," said the guide, as our carriage emerged from
+the shade of the trees and the Pyramids were seen in the distance, "but
+Cheops is the greatest, and it is the one that is ascended by visitors;
+the other Pyramids are viewed at a distance but are visited by few.
+Cheops is four hundred and fifty feet in height and each side of the
+base measures seven hundred and fifty feet. It was originally much
+larger and higher but the outer layers of stone were torn down and
+carried away to Cairo to build mosques and palaces. The adjacent Pyramid
+of Chepren is almost as large but as some of the steps are cased, it is
+more difficult to ascend. When we arrive at the pyramids you may take
+camels or donkeys and ride around the base of Cheops. Or if you prefer
+to go on foot, you may walk around it, but walking in the sand is
+tiresome. Then we will proceed to the Sphinx and, after viewing it,
+descend to the excavated temple near the Sphinx. Afterwards, those who
+feel equal to the exertion may climb to the summit of Cheops. As this
+Pyramid is built of huge blocks of stone about three feet in thickness
+each step upward requires some effort. The Bedouins, however, will
+assist you in the ascent, two of them mounting the step ahead and
+drawing you up while a third pushes behind."
+
+[Illustration: THE TOMB MOSQUE OF THE KHALIF KAIT BEY WAS THE FINEST.]
+
+As we neared them, the Pyramids, which at first had seemed small and
+hazy in the distance, became distinct and grew in size. When very close
+to them they appeared enormous, but their magnitude was not fully
+appreciated until some hours later, after we had tramped through the
+sand around the four sides of great Cheops. After that walk, a distance
+of more than half a mile, we could judge with greater exactness the
+immense proportions of the extensive base. The slope of the sides
+prevented a fair conception of their height when looking upward at them;
+but after reaching the top of Cheops, panting with the exertion of the
+laborious climb in which we had been assisted by three Bedouins, we
+looked down at the midgets moving on the sand below, and were convinced
+that the altitude stated by the guide was not exaggerated.
+
+The Pyramids of Gizeh stand upon a plateau about four hundred acres in
+extent, which appeared to be thirty or more feet above the level of the
+surrounding country. The surface of this plateau is a barren sandy
+tract, bordered by cultivated land on the side toward the Nile and
+merging on the west into the Libyan desert which stretches to the
+distant hills. Just as far as the inundation of the Nile spreads or the
+irrigating water was pumped, the land was fertile; where the surface
+rose above the height reached by the water, the land was a barren waste.
+Almost as suddenly as landing from an emerald sea on to a desert shore,
+we stepped from a rich growth of verdure to a bare slope of yellow
+sand.
+
+At the foot of the Pyramid of Cheops a gesticulating, vociferous throng
+of Bedouins crowded about us, shouting in Arabic mixed with a few
+intelligible English words. Camel-drivers and donkey boys offered the
+services of their animals to make the circuit; helpers, almost dragging
+us away in their eagerness, insisted that we should climb to the summit;
+and guides with candles in their hands importuned us to accompany them
+into the gloomy interior. After a selection of camels and donkeys had
+been made by those who desired to ride, the clamorous crowd of natives
+separated, and we were allowed to start accompanied by but a few, who
+followed in case they should be needed. "Madam might drop her shawl, or
+want her umbrella carried, or need an arm to steady her in the saddle,"
+explained the guide.
+
+[Illustration: ASTRIDE ITS MOTHER'S SHOULDERS.]
+
+"For scores of centuries," remarked the professor, as we stood before
+the Sphinx, "the strong winds from the west have carried particles of
+sand from the desert and deposited them around the Pyramids. Now the
+original base of Cheops lies twenty or thirty feet beneath banks of sand
+and debris that have collected around it. In the same manner the
+encroaching particles, drifting like the light dry snows of the
+prairies, have almost engulfed the Sphinx. Many times in the past the
+sand has been shoveled away to prevent the Sphinx from being hidden from
+sight, and if this excavation in which it now stands should be neglected
+for a time, the desert winds would fill the pit again and gradually
+cover the monument. The Granite Temple adjacent to the Sphinx was
+covered over so completely in the progress of centuries that its
+location was forgotten. It is but fifty years since the French
+archæologist Mariette discovered and excavated the interior of this
+large structure, the exterior of which, as you see, yet remains embedded
+in sand as far as the capstone on the walls."
+
+After descending the steps that led down to the floor of the buried
+temple and passing through rooms constructed of blocks of alabaster, we
+stood in the main hall, surrounded by monolithic pillars of granite
+which supported enormous blocks of the same material overhead. The guide
+said that these huge blocks of granite had been brought from quarries at
+Assuan, far up the Nile, but he could not tell how the ancient Egyptians
+had been able to handle the monoliths.
+
+[Illustration: ENTERED THE FAMILY BURIAL MOSQUE OF MOHAMMED ALI.]
+
+"My theory may not be correct," said the professor, as we turned to him
+for a reply to the query "but I will state it. We know how the great
+blocks of limestone that were used in the erection of the Pyramids were
+brought from the Libyan mountains; for the father of history, Herodotus,
+relates the story. He says that the Egyptians constructed a solid road
+sixty feet wide of polished stone from the quarry in the Lybian
+mountains and over this smooth roadbed dragged or rolled the huge
+blocks. He also states that as the work progressed, these blocks were
+lifted by machines from step to step and imbedded in their places in the
+pyramid. When granite or other stone had to be brought from a great
+distance for the erection of temples and palaces, as for this granite
+and alabaster temple of the Sphinx, the Egyptians probably adopted the
+simplest way of conveying the material in a land where task-masters
+drove tens of thousands of slaves to labor on the public works. That is,
+they probably excavated canals from the Nile to the quarries,
+supplementing these, where necessary, with stone roadways or slides, and
+made other canals from the Nile to the location selected for the
+buildings, and transported the unwieldy masses of stone on barges to
+their destination."
+
+"I made some calculations for comparison last night," continued the
+professor, seeing that we were interested in his statements. "Professor
+Petrie, the archæologist, says that there are over two million large
+blocks of stone in the Pyramid of Cheops, or ninety-two million cubic
+feet."
+
+"Now, Professor," said one of the ladies, interrupting him, "you are
+getting above our comprehension when you soar into millions."
+
+[Illustration: BEARING ON HIS BACK AN UNWIELDY GOATSKIN.]
+
+"Am I?" he replied. "Well, I will leave the millions and give you
+something more familiar. The Capitol at Washington is seven hundred and
+fifty feet long,--just the length of each side of the base of
+Cheops,--but the Capitol is not half that in width. The Capitol covers
+an area of three and one-half acres; the Pyramid spreads over thirteen
+acres. The apex of the Pyramid is one hundred and sixty feet higher than
+the head of Freedom on the dome at Washington. The Capitol is a hollow
+structure; the Pyramid, a solid mass, excepting the comparatively small
+chamber of the tomb and passage ways. The stone used in the construction
+of Cheops would be sufficient to build the Capitol and the Library of
+Congress, and there would be enough material left over for capitol
+buildings in each of the states in the Union. When you have time,
+calculate how many miles of stone wall might be constructed with
+ninety-two million cubic feet of stone. It is only by comparison that we
+can comprehend the stupendous bulk of these magnificent monuments, and
+realize the prodigious amount of labor that was required for their
+erection."
+
+It was but a short drive from the Hotel Grand Continental to the Muski,
+the narrow street that is the centre of the bazaar district, a district
+which every visitor is sure to find soon after his arrival in Cairo.
+When we entered the crowded Muski, we left the broad avenues of the
+modern city behind and walked in narrow Oriental streets through which
+carriages are not allowed to go.
+
+"Everything is novel and interesting in this busy thoroughfare," said
+one of our party. "I suggest that we move along very slowly and stop
+frequently. See that lemonade vender with the brass tank strapped to his
+back. When he bent forward the water flowed from the spout over his
+shoulder into the cup he held in his hand, without his touching the
+tank. He is waiting for his customer to produce the pennies that
+apparently cannot be found."
+
+The street scenes in the Muski were so kaleidoscopic that it is
+impossible to give more than a suggestion of their character. A few
+representative scenes can be given and around these the imagination must
+picture a constantly changing throng, not hurrying as in busy American
+cities, but moving leisurely in the Eastern manner. The crowd was
+orderly, but not quiet, for tongues were in constant use. Merchants
+and customers chattered and parleyed. Venders of licorice water and
+sweetmeats did not permit their presence to be overlooked, and donkeys
+occasionally joined in the chorus. Each figure unfamiliar to our Western
+eyes, in turban or in fez, in slippers or in bare feet, in scant gown of
+cotton or full robe of silk, was a subject worthy of being considered
+individually.
+
+[Illustration: FIGURES UNFAMILIAR TO OUR WESTERN EYES.]
+
+A baby, astride its mother's shoulder, clung to her head while she
+walked along and made her purchases, apparently unconscious of her
+child. A bare-footed water carrier, bearing on his back an unwieldy
+goatskin distended with its contents, cried, "Water for sale." A donkey
+boy pushed aside the crowd to let the closely veiled, silk-mantled lady
+rider pass through on her caparisoned donkey. Muscular fellahs, or
+peasants, in brown skull caps, and blue shirts which reached to their
+ankles, their feet bare, their teeth remarkable for whiteness, sauntered
+along chewing stalks of sugar-cane. Women of the poorer class passed by,
+wearing scanty gowns of plain blue cotton, heavy copper bracelets, and
+nose ornaments of brass, which held in place the veils that covered the
+lower part of their faces but did not conceal the beauty spots tattooed
+on their foreheads. A funeral procession, with professional mourners
+chanting monotonously a hymn to Allah, followed a casket borne on the
+shoulders of men. And these curious scenes, which we tried to catch with
+the camera, formed but unimportant parts in an ever-moving picture in
+which were intermingled the costumes, colors, and facial characteristics
+of dervishes, priests, and soldiers, of Arabs, Nubians, Turks, and
+Americans.
+
+[Illustration: IN THE COURT OF THE ALABASTER MOSQUE IS A FOUNTAIN.]
+
+The Muski and the crooked little passage-ways that intersected it were
+lined with small shops where many of the dealers sat cross-legged on
+platforms within arm's reach of their stock of goods. The stores for the
+sale of each kind of goods had a special quarter of their own. At one
+place we saw the shops of the coppersmiths with stocks of bright
+kettles, pitchers, basins, trays, and pans; at another, the stores of
+the shoemakers, where hundreds of bright red slippers dangled on lines
+overhead. In one crooked alley, but four feet in width, we watched the
+goldsmiths, squatted in narrow quarters, busily at work with brazier and
+blowpipes and curious little tools, hammering, twisting, and welding
+chains of gold, and making ornaments of silver filagree.
+
+We bought souvenirs at the stalls of the fez dealers, where but one
+style of headgear was sold, always red in color, and with prices varying
+according to the quality of the cloth and lining. We stopped at the
+warerooms of the brass-smiths, which were larger in size than the
+ordinary shops, and found these filled with an array of hammered trays,
+censers, bowls, tankards, curiously wrought lamps, and ornamented
+candlesticks, that attracted many buyers. We looked into the little
+factories of the saddlers, which were gay with red and yellow trappings
+for donkeys and horses, and where the saddlers were stitching with
+bright colored-threads.
+
+The light open-front workshops of the makers of hempen camel harness
+were hung with the twisted rope and tassel adornments of variegated
+colors with which the Bedouin delights to array his ship of the desert.
+The stores of the grocers were adorned with long decorated candles
+suspended by the wicks. We saw hundreds of tiny bazaars for the sale of
+perfumes, placed side by side in a narrow lane where the air was scented
+with musk and attar of roses; and we walked through narrow streets
+where, each kind in its own section, earthen water jars, lanterns,
+books, ornamented leather work, gems, and precious stones were displayed
+for sale.
+
+The guide insisted that we should spend a little time in the carpet
+stores in a side street. We yielded to his entreaties, and were
+surprised by the immense stacks of exquisite silk rugs; but to the
+courteous salesman's offer to show us everything in his place, we were
+compelled by lack of time to reply, "Another day." When we arrived at
+the more prominent silk bazaars, the ladies wished to buy some light
+shawls interwoven with gold thread and table covers embroidered with
+silk. They soon found out, however, that, as in the other Oriental
+cities, much time would be required for bargaining, and so the shopping
+was put off until the sight-seeing was over.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIV.
+
+LUXOR AND KARNAK.
+
+
+The Nile party No. 2, consisting of forty-two persons, left Cairo on
+Friday morning, March thirteenth, in sleeping cars. The cars were
+painted white outside, finished in cherry inside, and divided into
+rooms, each room having two comfortable berths and a washstand, and a
+passageway along the side of the car. We ate our dinner that evening and
+breakfast the following morning in a modern dining car attached to the
+train.
+
+At nine o'clock on Saturday morning the train arrived at our
+destination, the town of Luxor, about four hundred miles south of Cairo.
+The Hotel de Luxor, at which we stayed, was situated in the midst of a
+large irrigated garden where palms cast a grateful shade and roses and
+lilies bloomed among tropical plants. Within this hotel, built with
+thick stone walls and floored with flagstones, the tourists found a
+pleasant refuge from the heat when they returned from excursions into
+the desert. In its cool dining room, decorated in the old Egyptian style
+with figures of gods and goddesses, with lotus blossoms and papyrus
+flowers, with hieroglyphics and symbols, painted on frieze, walls, and
+window sash, the tourists were waited on by white-robed, white-turbaned,
+red-sashed, red-slippered natives.
+
+[Illustration: THE HUGE PROPYLON OR OUTER GATEWAY AT KARNAK.]
+
+The flies were a great pest. They were numerous and annoying, although
+we found that they did not bite so hard nor tickle the skin so much as
+do the flies in our country. Among the first purchases made by the
+tourists in Luxor were fly brushes made of palm fiber or of white
+horsehair with wooden handles and loops to attach them to the wrist. It
+was amusing to see English, German, and American tourists switching at
+the flies with their horsetail brushes while the natives passively
+endured the crawling insects. Egyptian mothers in the village permitted
+the flies to creep over the babies' faces and settle in clusters around
+their eyes without attempting to drive the tormentors away, either too
+lazy to do so or desirous that the babies should become hardened to the
+annoyance. We pitied the infants, however, and some of the ladies of our
+party became very indignant over the indifference--cruelty they called
+it--of the mothers. We saw many older children afterwards whose skin
+appeared to be insensible to the tickling feet; for they made no attempt
+to brush away the flies which covered their faces.
+
+[Illustration: I. WALKED ALONG THE AVENUE OF SPHINXES.]
+
+[Illustration: II. THE LITTLE MOSQUE COULD NOT BE PURCHASED.]
+
+Our party was joined during the morning by another party of tourists.
+After luncheon we all proceeded to the end of the shaded garden, where,
+at the gateway, we found Mahmoud, the dragoman who had been selected to
+take charge of the expedition. His assistants were assembled there and
+with them were eighty donkey boys, each with his donkey, a number of
+jinrikisha men with carts, and chair men with chairs. The donkey boys
+were of all ages from lads scarcely in their teens to veterans of
+three-score years. The donkeys were of various sizes but the largest
+were not over four feet high. The jinrikishas had each two attendants,
+one man to pull in the shafts of the cart and one to push. The chairs
+borne on poles on the shoulders of men had each six carriers, four to
+carry and two as a relay. Chairs or jinrikishas were chosen by the
+tourists whose bodies required careful treatment and by those who
+preferred to travel in luxury. The donkeys, however, were selected by
+the majority, who considered it a far greater pleasure to ride.
+
+[Illustration: THEY BROUGHT WATER IN GOATSKINS FROM THE NILE.]
+
+"This way! this way! ladies and gentlemen, if you please!" exclaimed
+Mahmoud, and the merry cavalcade of eighty tourists and one hundred
+attendants started off through the village, donkey boys chattering,
+donkeys braying, and riders gaily chaffing one another on their
+appearance in the saddle; the long-legged professor holding up his feet
+to prevent them from scraping the ground and the jolly stout parson
+mounted on the smallest donkey. Each donkey was followed by a donkey boy
+who whipped the patient beast, jabbed him with a sharp pointed stick,
+twisted the animal's tail, or talked to him in Arabic, when it was
+necessary to urge him to greater speed. When urged, the donkeys were
+fast walkers. But whether the donkeys were walking, trotting, or
+galloping, the boys with little exertion managed to keep close to their
+heels, and the jinrikisha men and chair men could keep up such a rapid
+speed with their loads that it was difficult to leave them in the rear.
+
+[Illustration: BUILT OVER FORTY CENTURIES AGO.]
+
+My donkey boy, aged about sixteen, told me that his name was Abda
+Mohammed and that the medium sized white donkey on which I rode was
+known as Alice Lovell. With broad smiles which showed a perfect set of
+white teeth, he repeated over and over again, at intervals during the
+short ride, "Alice Lovell, nice donkey, good donkey. Abda, nice boy,
+good donkey boy," doubtless thinking that if I could fully realize that
+fact the backsheesh at parting would be larger.
+
+A half hour's ride on an embanked road across fields and desert sands
+brought us to the ruins of a great arch, formerly one of the gateways
+into the magnificent ancient temples of Karnak, but now an entrance way
+to the famous ruins. There, the Egyptian guards ordered us to show our
+government permits, or monument tickets, as our dragoman called them,
+without which we could not inspect the ruins.
+
+[Illustration: HAVE ENDURED THROUGH MANY AGES.]
+
+"Oh! I have forgotten my ticket!" said one of the tourists. "I left it
+with my satchel. What shall I do?"
+
+At luncheon before starting Mahmoud had cautioned the tourists to be
+careful not to forget their permits, and his cautionary words, "Monument
+tickets are very much wanted," were familiar and often repeated. A
+hurried consultation was held and the difficulty overcome, but the
+forgetful one and others were warned that it must not occur again.
+
+In order to provide a fund to be used in excavating, preserving, and
+caring for the ancient temples and tombs, the Egyptian government
+requires a permit costing six dollars to be taken out by each person
+desiring to visit these places, and without such a permit he cannot
+enter. At Cairo the managers of the tour had obtained from the
+government for each member of the Nile party a little cloth bound
+"Service des Antiquites L'Egypte" made out in the name of the holder.
+This open-sesame for the iron gates was given to each person with the
+warning that it must not be forgotten.
+
+We stopped to view and kodak one of the huge Propylons or outer gate
+ways and found there some visitors who had driven to Karnak in modern
+carriages instead of using the Oriental way of conveyance that we had
+taken. An avenue of Sphinxes with rams' heads was also stowed away in
+the kodak to be brought to light at some future time.
+
+"These stupendous ruins of Karnak," said the dragoman, "were once a
+group of magnificent temples covering an area of many acres. The most
+ancient of the structures was built over forty centuries ago. Other
+temples were added and alterations and improvements made during the ages
+following when the city of Thebes was a prosperous capital; but for over
+two thousand years these places of worship have been abandoned and the
+sand of the desert has collected around them, almost burying them out of
+sight. The Egyptian government for a number of years has had many
+natives excavating, and also has been raising some of the fallen
+columns."
+
+As we passed through the temple grounds we saw a number of men and boys
+at work, as the dragoman had stated. These excavators scooped the sand
+and debris into small baskets, while a taskmaster stood over them, whip
+in hand. Then placing the filled baskets on their heads they started off
+in long lines, singing as they marched to the deposit heap. The men, we
+were informed, earned twenty-five cents a day at this labor, and the
+boys ten to fifteen cents a day.
+
+"One thing noticeable about these most magnificent ruins in the world,"
+continued the guide, as we halted in the great court, "is that the
+architecture, the sculpture, the inscriptions, of the earlier temples is
+equal, if not superior, to the workmanship of a later date. The
+construction work done under the great kings Ramses I, Seti I, Ramses
+II, and Amenophis III, who ruled over Egypt thirteen centuries before
+the Christian era, has never been surpassed. Stones of immense size were
+handled by their architects in some manner unknown at the present day,
+and walls and columns were erected of such solidity and strength that
+they have endured through these many ages. The First Pylon or gigantic
+portal to the Temple of Ammon, which was dedicated to Ammon-Re, the King
+of the Gods, is three hundred and seventy-two feet wide, with walls
+sixteen feet thick and one hundred and forty-two feet high. The
+wonderful Hypostyle Hall, or Hall of Columns, is three hundred and
+thirty-eight feet long by one hundred and seventy feet broad."
+
+"Before we enter, let me read you what the noted Egyptologist Rawlinson
+says with reference to this Hall of Columns," said the professor,
+drawing out his note book. "He writes: 'The greatest of all Seti's work
+was his pillared hall at Karnak, the most splendid single chamber that
+has ever been built by any architect, and even in its ruins one of the
+grandest sights that the world contains."
+
+The huge columns, some in place, some leaning, and others prostrate,
+were an impressive sight. The guide called our attention to the
+inscriptions that covered all the columns and to the traces of coloring
+that might still be seen on the protected parts. In order that we might
+more fully realize their size, he suggested that we measure the
+circumference of one with our arms. It required six of us with
+outstretched arms to span one of the larger columns.
+
+As we passed through the various halls, Mahmoud interpreted and
+explained many of the historical inscriptions and reliefs with which the
+ancient Egyptian kings had covered the walls, commemorating the
+victories they had gained over their enemies. One wall pictured the
+triumph of Shishak over Rehoboam, the son of Solomon. The captured
+cities were represented by circles each enclosing the name of the city;
+the captives, by rows of Hebrews bound with cords. King Shishak stood
+over the captives grasping a group of them by the hair and smiting them
+with a club, and slaves carried the golden treasures that had been
+stripped from the temple at Jerusalem, and the plunder taken from
+Rehoboam's palace.
+
+[Illustration: WITHIN THE TEMPLE OF AMMON AT KARNAK.]
+
+On our return to Luxor my donkey boy Abda and I had a disagreement. I
+gave him, as backsheesh, a tip equal to a man's wages for a full day's
+work in Egypt; but he pleaded with tears in his eyes for "more
+backsheesh," and departed apparently in great anger.
+
+After resting awhile in the cool halls of our hotel, we walked to the
+ruins of the great Temple in the village of Luxor, close by the river
+bank and not far from the hotel.
+
+"In the year 1884," said Mahmoud, as we assembled around him in the
+ruins where the gigantic columns rose forty feet above our heads, "I was
+living in a house that stood just over where we are now standing and I
+did not know that a part of the temple was buried in the earth
+underneath. The government officials, after much haggling and
+complaining about the prices my neighbors and I demanded, bought the
+houses and lands of us, about thirty properties in all, and gave us
+other lands, so that the excavations could be continued. That year this
+part of the temple was uncovered. The little white mosque at the corner
+could not be purchased, as that ground is sacred and must not be
+disturbed to uncover ruins underneath it."
+
+[Illustration: PLACED THE FILLED BASKETS ON THEIR HEADS.]
+
+[Illustration: EMBELLISHED THE TEMPLE WITH STATUES OF HIMSELF.]
+
+"This edifice, dedicated to the worship of Ammon," continued the guide,
+"was erected by King Amenophis III thirty-three hundred years ago; but
+King Ramses II, one hundred years later, added to the structure and
+made it a memorial of his reign by embellishing the temple with statues
+of himself and covering the exterior walls with reliefs and inscriptions
+picturing and describing his triumphs."
+
+We saw two colossal sitting statues of Ramses forty-five feet in height,
+one of which was completely excavated, the other buried breast high in
+rubbish, and in a court of the temple were many gigantic standing
+figures of Ramses placed between the pillars. Beside one of these was a
+small figure, representing the queen Nefertari, which just reached to
+the height of the knees of Ramses.
+
+"The king desired to indicate by the size of the statues that he was a
+great conqueror," said the dragoman. "His wife was the daughter of
+Pharoah who, while bathing in the Nile, found the Hebrew babe hidden
+among the papyri plants."
+
+"If Nefertari was the princess who rescued Moses, she deserved a larger
+statue," responded one of the tourists.
+
+"This series of scenes represents the victory at Kadesh in Syria,"
+explained the guide as we stood before a wall covered with pictorial
+representations of conflict cut in the stone. "Here is the King in his
+chariot charging with fury on his foes amid flying arrows. Notice the
+dead and wounded scattered over the field of battle and the Hittites
+flying in confusion. At one side you see the Egyptian camp, and on the
+other side the fortress of Kadesh and the Syrian king amazed at the
+sight of his army in wild flight. The hieroglyphics that cover the side
+of the tower give a detailed account of the battle and of the glorious
+deeds of valor performed by King Ramses. There were originally two large
+obelisks here in front of the temple, but one of them was taken to Paris
+a number of years ago."
+
+"Yes, I saw it there," remarked one of the party, "but the inscriptions
+on the one at Paris looked worn and weather-beaten; while those on this
+obelisk are almost as distinct as when they were cut in the pink granite
+three thousand years ago."
+
+On the morning of March fifteenth, after an early breakfast, we started
+at seven o'clock to visit the Tombs of the Kings and the temples on the
+west side of the Nile,--the village of Luxor and the temples of Luxor
+and Karnak being on the east side. Crossing the river in ferry boats
+propelled by sails and oars, the tourists found donkeys, boys,
+chair-men, lunch carriers, guides, and extra men crowding the western
+shore. We had hardly landed when the donkey boys surrounded us,
+gesticulating, shouting the merits of themselves and their beasts, and
+pleading that their donkeys might be selected. Much to my surprise,
+Abda, the offended and angry boy of the Karnak ride, pushed his way to
+my side with Alice Lovell and smilingly claimed me as his friend and
+benefactor, with the familiar tale: "Alice Lovell a good donkey; Abda a
+good donkey boy," so our relations were renewed.
+
+The ladies decided that the men's saddles would be more comfortable for
+a long ride, and that there would be less danger of the saddle turning;
+so side saddles were generally dispensed with and most of the women
+mounted astride. From the landing we rode slowly over a long stretch
+of loose sand, tiresome to the donkeys, and then along a good path on
+the embankment of an irrigating ditch. The sun was sending down hot rays
+by the time we reached our first halting place, the Temple of Kurna, and
+we were glad to dismount and seek shelter and rest in the shade of the
+great walls while we examined the beautifully executed reliefs and
+inscriptions.
+
+[Illustration: BESIDE ONE OF THESE IS A SMALL FIGURE OF THE QUEEN.]
+
+In the treasure chamber of the temple, Mahmoud related the story of the
+architect who built the chamber for King Seti. "This rascal of an
+architect," said Mahmoud, "left one stone loose so that he could
+secretly remove it and enter the chamber to steal. The robber was caught
+in the act of carrying off the treasure and fittingly punished as you
+may see represented in the reliefs on the walls. This man pictured here
+in disgrace and chains as a warning to ill-doers was the first thief in
+Egypt, but I am sorry to say he was not the last."
+
+After leaving the Temple of Kurna, which is situated near the cliffs
+that bound the Nile valley, our procession entered a narrow ravine
+through which the path leads to the Tombs of the Kings. Here we met
+another large party of Americans and we all rode together for some
+distance, one of the tourists meeting a friend whom she had not seen for
+seven years. We passed two Englishmen with their guide, who moved off
+the path and gazed through their eye-glasses in mild astonishment at our
+animated cavalcade in varied costumes; while we in turn looked at their
+immaculate sporting outfits and thought how lonely the couple must be,
+traveling through these dismal solitudes. Our party had not thought it
+worth while to purchase special riding outfits for the few days in the
+desert, but had utilized what they had. For protection from the sun some
+used white helmets or cloth neck protectors, some covered their heads
+and necks with veils or tied down their soft hats, others wore straw
+hats or caps regardless of sunburn.
+
+[Illustration: RESTED IN THE SHADE OF THE TEMPLE OF KURNA.]
+
+[Illustration: WE ENTERED THE RAMESSEUM.]
+
+Overhead was an unclouded sky; at each side rose yellow limestone cliffs
+glaring in the noonday sun, and underneath white sand and limestone
+chips reflected the burning rays. Not a sign of vegetation relieved the
+eye in this waterless gorge during our one hour's ride from Kurna to the
+Tombs.
+
+"Backsheesh! backsheesh!" demanded the donkey boys, as we dismounted.
+
+"Why do you want backsheesh now?"
+
+"Boy don't want backsheesh, donkey want backsheesh, donkey eat hay while
+man in tombs."
+
+In order that the Tombs may be satisfactorily examined by visitors, the
+government has built an electric light plant in the gorge and the
+thirty-five tombs are illuminated by electricity. Our party entered and
+examined the six of these tombs which are considered the most
+interesting. At each of these an Egyptian guard politely scrutinized the
+"Services des Antiquites," although it was printed in French that he
+could not read, and then permitted the holder to enter.
+
+[Illustration: STOOD IN THE COLONNADE AT MEDINET HABU.]
+
+In Tomb No. 17, we descended a passage hewn in the limestone cliff,
+about ten feet wide, ten feet in height, and three hundred and thirty
+feet in length, which leads inward and downward by inclines and steps to
+the resting-place of King Seti, a tomb prepared during his life to be
+the receptacle for his mummified remains after death. The smooth
+polished walls and ceilings of the corridors and chambers were
+sculptured by the best artists of Seti's time with reliefs of great
+beauty, representing scenes of a sacred character. The praising of the
+great God Ammon-Re, the offering of incense and gifts to various
+deities, the passage of the boat of the sun, the punishments in the
+underworld, the sacred sun-disk, animal-headed gods, patron goddesses,
+fierce demons, sacred animals, winged serpents, flying spirits, evil
+genii, coiled snakes, and creeping scarabs are portrayed repeatedly.
+
+[Illustration: AT THE TOMBS OF THE KING.]
+
+Mahmoud explained the pictures and inscriptions as we slowly went
+forward, stopping frequently to inspect more closely those of greater
+interest.
+
+"After Seti's death," said Mahmoud, as we stood in the chamber of the
+tomb, brilliantly lighted by the electric bulbs, "his body was embalmed
+and with great pomp and ceremony the mummy was carried from the palace
+in the great city of Thebes through the dismal gorge and deposited in a
+magnificent alabaster sarcophagus that had been prepared for its
+reception in this chamber in the limestone rock ninety feet below the
+surface of the ground. Then the tomb was closed and sealed so that the
+body of the king might remain in peace until it should be called forth
+at the end of time to undergo trial before the god Osiris.
+
+"For hundreds of years, the mummy lay tranquilly in its sealed tomb;
+then the seals were rudely broken and the tomb was despoiled by robbers
+who wished to obtain the valuables deposited with the body. When this
+despoliation was discovered, the rulers of the Empire removed Seti's
+mummy and the mummies of other kings to a tomb near the Temple of
+Der-el-bahri which could be more closely guarded. There the mummies
+remained until the year 1881, when they were taken away to the Museum at
+Cairo."
+
+"And now," said one of the visitors, as the guide concluded, "after
+thirty centuries of repose, the proud features of this oppressor of the
+Israelites, little the worse for the lapse of time, are exposed in the
+great hall of the National Museum in Cairo to the gaze of the rude
+multitude from whom he desired to be hidden, and his alabaster
+sarcophagus is admired by visitors in the Soane Museum of London."
+
+Almost all the articles of value in the Tombs that the robbers did not
+succeed in carrying away, as well as the mummies and sarcophagi, have
+been removed to museums in the large cities, the most valuable being
+retained for the Museum in Cairo. In the tomb of Amenophis II, however,
+the mummy of the king in a decorated coffin remains for the inspection
+of visitors. Above the head of this ruler of the ancient empire, a
+modern electric bulb hangs, illuminating the rugged features and showing
+every detail of high nose, sunken cheeks, and straggling hair on the
+head and chin. The tombs of Ramses III, Ramses IV, and Ramses IX were
+interesting each in its own way. That of Ramses III had, in addition to
+the sacred scenes, pictures of agricultural and family life; plowing,
+sowing, reaping, baking, slaughtering, and cooking.
+
+"Shall we return through the gorge or take the shorter path over the
+cliffs and obtain a view of the Nile valley?" inquired the dragoman.
+
+[Illustration: USED CHISELS ON LASTING STONE INSTEAD OF BRUSHES ON
+PERISHABLE CANVAS.]
+
+Some, dreading the exertion under a broiling sun, chose the level road
+on a donkey's back. Others, intent on obtaining the view, started to
+climb the zigzag path regardless of the glare of the sun, the donkey
+boys following with the donkeys. The view from the summit amply repaid
+us for the climb. On one side we looked down into the desolate valley of
+the Tombs. On the other we saw the rich green valley of the Nile, with
+groups of palms, villages, and temples. Directly below at the foot of
+the yellow cliff, and in strong contrast to it, was the white marble
+temple of Der-al-bahri. And not far from the temple was a cottage, which
+at once became interesting to the tired party when the guide, pointing
+to it, said: "That is the rest-house. A good luncheon will be ready on
+the tables when you arrive there."
+
+[Illustration: POSED TO BE KODAKED.]
+
+We had been riding on a very narrow trail along the edge of a precipice,
+but now we dismounted and descended, on foot, a winding path, too steep
+and dangerous for riding, that led us to the rest-house in the valley
+below. Here, at the Chalet Hatasu, as it was named, the servants had
+unpacked the hampers which they had brought from the hotel at Luxor, and
+the hungry travelers were soon seated around well-spread tables. During
+the meal a throng of scantily clad men, boys, and small children
+assembled outside the Chalet. These bare-footed Arabs offered for sale
+scarabs, stone mummy images, mummified feet, skulls, beads, and trinkets
+so clamorously and persistently that our dragoman had to use his long
+lashed whip to clear the way. After leaving the chalet, naked boys,
+apparently from four to ten years of age, followed us with outstretched
+hands, begging for backsheesh. Some of these boys earned money by posing
+to be kodaked.
+
+[Illustration: I. COLOSSUS OF RAMSES LAY BROKEN.]
+
+[Illustration: II. MOSLEMS HAD MUTILATED THE STATUES.]
+
+[Illustration: TWO WEATHER-WORN FIGURES OF PRODIGIOUS SIZE]
+
+The walls and columns of the Ramesseum, the magnificent temple built by
+Ramses II, and those of Medinet Habu, the great temple built by Ramses
+III, were covered with pictures in relief, made in the golden days of
+Theban prosperity.
+
+"The ancient artists, to perpetuate their work, used chisels on lasting
+stone instead of brushes on perishable canvas," remarked the professor
+as we examined the reliefs, "and their pictures carved on the stone
+walls have endured through centuries."
+
+We saw battle scenes with the king leading in the fray, archers
+discharging arrows, charioteers riding down the foe, and enemies fleeing
+in dismay; triumphal marches with the king borne aloft on a canopied
+litter, fan-bearers waving fans, musicians blowing trumpets and beating
+drums, courtiers bearing standards, and captives led in chains; festal
+processions with the king marching in front, the sacred white bull
+festooned with wreaths, maidens carrying flowers, and priests bearing
+images; and nations paying tribute to the king upon his throne, Nubians
+bringing leopard skins, giraffes, and grinning apes, and princes
+presenting gems, costly vases, and golden shields. One picture at
+Medinet Habu represented the soldiers cutting off the right hands of
+their enemies who had been slain in battle and bringing these gruesome
+emblems of the dead to the secretaries to be counted and recorded. The
+secretaries had counted and recorded twelve thousand five hundred and
+thirty-five hands. To enumerate the many interesting scenes sculptured
+on the temple walls would be like cataloguing a picture gallery.
+
+At the Ramesseum, the enormous Colossus of Ramses lay broken on the
+ground, overthrown by some mighty force.
+
+"This huge granite figure," said Mahmoud, "was, before its fall, the
+largest statue ever carved out of one block of stone. Its height was
+nearly sixty feet, the fingers three feet long, and its weight has been
+estimated at one thousand tons."
+
+The Colossi of Memnon, the two enormous seated figures in the midst of
+level cultivated fields, were passed and photographed as we returned to
+Luxor. Their hugeness may be judged by comparing their size with the
+height of the tourists alongside in the illustration.
+
+"During the weeks of inundation each year," said Mahmoud, after he had
+told us the dimensions of the statues and the mythical stories
+associated with them, "these grain fields as far as the vegetation
+extends are covered with water to a depth of from ten to fifteen feet.
+When the Nile is at its height the heads of the great Colossi,
+surrounded by water, rise forty feet above the flood."
+
+A bath and a thorough brushing of clothes at the hotel removed the
+desert sand. We sipped our afternoon tea in the shaded garden and then
+the party of forty-two persons boarded the Nile steamer Amasis in time
+for an evening dinner on the boat. Suit cases and satchels were unpacked
+and the staterooms made cozy, for the Amasis was to be the tourists'
+home for a number of days during the trip down the Nile.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XV.
+
+ON THE NILE.
+
+
+At daylight on Monday morning, March sixteenth, the Amasis steamed away
+from Luxor and by nine o'clock had arrived at the landing for Dendera.
+The donkey boys of Dendera, having been notified of our coming, were
+waiting with their donkeys. In a few minutes the tourists were mounted
+for a half hour's ride on narrow paths through green barley fields to
+the ruined temple. I rode on a donkey named Whiskey and Soda, with my
+donkey boy Hassan running behind prodding the animal occasionally with a
+sharp-pointed stick, and yelling "Haow! Haow!" to urge Whiskey and Soda
+to a more rapid gait. Along the paths through the fields many children
+ran to greet us with outstretched palms. Their costumes were those of
+the Garden of Eden before the fall; but having been informed of our
+approach, the bronze colored youngsters had decorated themselves for the
+occasion with wreaths of green barley around their waists and crowns of
+the same material on their heads. The little Arabs, bright-eyed,
+smooth-limbed, and handsome featured, attractive and picturesque in
+appearance, shouted with glee when a few small coins were thrown among
+them.
+
+"Look at that!" exclaimed one of the party. "I have heard of the
+shepherds carrying the lambs on their shoulders, but here is a man
+coming with the foal of a donkey in his arms."
+
+"What a dear little pet," said the ladies as the Arab passed us with the
+young donkey nestling contentedly on his breast.
+
+"The famous Temple of Dendera was not so magnificent nor so large as the
+temples of Karnak and Thebes," said the guide, as we stood before the
+gates, "but it was more richly decorated with carvings and paintings.
+Every inch of column, wall, and ceiling was carved with hieroglyphic and
+pictorial decorations. These were painted in bright colors which are yet
+faintly visible. This structure is a modern one compared with Karnak;
+for Karnak was an ancient temple more than one thousand years old when
+King Ptolemy began the erection of this building just before the
+Christian Era. An inscription on the walls states that the time required
+for its construction was one hundred and eight years, six months, and
+fourteen days. When Egypt became a Roman province after the death of
+Cleopatra, the Roman emperors continued the construction of the
+unfinished temple. Augustus, Tiberius, Caligula, Claudius, and Nero are
+represented in reliefs on the walls. The temple was dedicated to the
+worship of the Goddess Hathor, the Egyptian Venus, or goddess of love
+and beauty."
+
+"Why was the temple built here two miles away from the river, instead of
+near the banks of the Nile?" inquired a tourist.
+
+"It was because this terrace is higher than the valley," answered
+Mahmoud. "Remember that these green fields through which we rode are
+made fertile by the overflow of the Nile; then I think that the reason
+for building on this plateau will be plain to you."
+
+[Illustration: DONKEY BOYS WERE WAITING FOR US.]
+
+"But why was it built in a depression?"
+
+"It was not originally in a hole," explained the guide, "but was built
+on level ground. Some sixteen hundred years ago the Christian Roman
+Emperor Theodosius forbade the worship of idols. After that time, the
+worship of the goddess Hathor being discontinued, the temple was
+neglected and a village of mud huts sprang up around it. These huts,
+built of sun-dried bricks, crumbled to dust in the passage of years and
+were trampled under foot. Again and again new huts supplanted the old
+until in the course of centuries the debris accumulated many feet in
+depth. When the government, fifty years ago, undertook to restore the
+temple, the workmen had to begin by shoveling mud huts off the roof."
+
+We descended a long flight of steps to reach the level of the floor of
+the excavated temple, and passing the blue-uniformed guards entered the
+grand hall of columns. The hall, as the guide had told us, was richly
+decorated. Master sculptors had carved every available space on the
+walls and columns with hieroglyphic inscriptions and beautiful reliefs;
+master artists in color had heightened the effect with tint and shade.
+Looking up we saw, pictured on the ceiling, the Egyptian deity, Nut, the
+goddess of the sky, controlling the movements of sun and stars; the rays
+of the sun shining in blessing on the head of Hathor; the moon issuing
+from Nut's mouth; the signs of the Zodiac; the flying Hours of day and
+night; and the sailing boats of the planets.
+
+[Illustration: RICHLY DECORATED WITH CARVINGS AND PAINTINGS.]
+
+The guide raised a stone trap door less than two feet square in the
+stone floor and through this small entrance we squeezed, candle in hand,
+and descended a stone stairway to explore the dark crypt underneath.
+Although the ladies screamed when the bats, disturbed and blinded by the
+light, flew wildly overhead, they bravely followed the guide. The long
+passage was but three feet in width and we wondered why the dragoman had
+brought us down into its close and gloomy recesses; but when magnesium
+wires were lit, our wonder turned into admiration, for the sputtering
+white light revealed on the smooth sidewalls most beautiful reliefs in
+well preserved coloring.
+
+[Illustration: OFFERED INCENSE TO THE GODS.]
+
+"Did you see anything remarkable in that dark cellar?" inquired a voice
+from above as we ascended through the trap.
+
+"Why didn't you come along?" was the laughing response.
+
+"I've not trained down to the proper size yet," rejoined the fat man who
+could be jolly on all occasions. "Do you think that a man of my size
+could squeeze through a hole like that?"
+
+[Illustration: ENTERED THE GRAND HALL OF COLUMNS.]
+
+By a long stone stairway of easy steps we ascended leisurely to the
+roof, stopping frequently to admire the ceremonial procession of priests
+pictured on the walls of the staircase. From the flat stone roof we saw
+on one side the green cultivated fields extending to the river's edge
+and on the other side the yellow desert stretching to the distant
+cliffs.
+
+"This is a picture of Cleopatra and her son Cæsarion," said Mahmoud, as
+we inspected the reliefs on the outer walls, "and this is King Ptolemy
+offering incense to the gods Osiris and Isis, and hawk-headed Horus
+their son. Here also is Hathor's picture repeated many times."
+
+The trip down the river Nile on the fine steamer Amasis, which had been
+chartered for us, was thoroughly enjoyed by the forty-two people who
+made up the party. The staterooms were bright and clean and the meals
+served were equal to those of a first class hotel. The captain and his
+officials did all they could to make the trip pleasant for us. Life on
+board was a life of ease; the air though warm was balmy and restful, and
+cares were forgotten. The centre of the upper deck was roofed over but
+open at the sides with rugs on the floor, easy chairs, small tables, and
+a piano. In this open piazza-parlor we sipped the coffee that was served
+to us there after luncheon and after dinner. There, too, we partook of
+the tea and cakes that were handed around at four o'clock, and when we
+returned from excursions on shore, tired and warm, we found refreshing
+lemonade ready to quench our thirst.
+
+[Illustration: RELIEFS ON THE OUTER WALL.]
+
+Our dragoman, Mahmoud Achmed, the Egyptian conductor of all our
+sight-seeing excursions on land, was an interesting character and became
+a great favorite. He was a native of Luxor and while we were at that
+place his bright-eyed little girl, neatly dressed, came to meet us.
+Mahmoud had a fund of information regarding the history of the country,
+the legends of the gods, and the fabulous deeds of the ancient kings. He
+had a most interesting way of interspersing history with mythical tales
+and humorous incidents, and so kept the party in high spirits. Mahmoud
+was noted, too, for his ability to answer intelligently all reasonable
+inquiries and for his great patience in replying to many questions, that
+must have appeared to him very silly. Each day on the boat while we were
+all seated at dinner, Mahmoud came into the dining saloon and announced
+the program for the following days, always beginning: "Ladies and
+gentlemen, if you please," and closing with, "Monument tickets are very
+much wanted. Galloping donkeys is not allowed."
+
+For some one to mislay or forget a permit was a daily occurrence and the
+caution had to be repeated often. As to the donkeys, the riders paid no
+attention to the restriction, but walked, trotted, or galloped the
+donkeys as they felt inclined.
+
+During the daytime Mahmoud wore a plain gown suitable for traveling on
+shore in heat and dust, but in the evenings he was resplendent in robes
+of silk. One night, at the request of one of the ladies, he brought to
+the mid-deck five handsome silk gowns to be inspected by the tourists.
+He also brought his book of references written by people whom he had
+conducted. In this we read the dignified prose of preacher and college
+president, the practical remarks of business men, and the nonsensical
+lines of the rhymster. One of his feminine admirers, seemingly impressed
+by the dragoman's silk robes, polite attention, and general good humor,
+had left the following jingle on the record:
+
+    Who guided us all about the show,
+    Whether we wanted to go or no,
+    And always pleased and made us go?
+                                      Mahmoud.
+
+    Who whipped the donkey when he fell
+    And then the donkey boy as well,
+    And dressed himself a howling swell?
+                                      Mahmoud.
+
+    Who sat so sweetly at my feet
+    With red tarbouche and slippers neat
+    And stirred my heart with many a beat?
+                                      Mahmoud.
+
+    And now, when all the trip is done
+    Rides to temples, and tombs, and fun,
+    We may forget them all save one,
+                                      Mahmoud.
+
+
+[Illustration: THIS IS A PICTURE OF CLEOPATRA AND HER SON.]
+
+Mahmoud took great pride in showing his many references in prose and
+rhyme, and the members of our party were glad to contribute in prose to
+his collection. But at the end of the week we presented him with another
+testimonial of a more practical kind.
+
+"The Nile is a most wonderful river," remarked the professor one evening
+as we sat on the open deck watching the moonlight glisten on the green
+water. "Several other rivers rival it in length; the Congo is noted for
+its size; the Amazon, swelled by great tributaries, discharges a volume
+of water immensely greater; and the Missouri, including the Mississippi
+to the Gulf, may be longer; but the Nile is unique in that for twelve
+hundred miles it flows without a tributary through a rainless region.
+Not a drop of rain nor a single brook adds to its volume in all that
+distance, and a hot sun, canals, ditches, sakiyehs, shadoofs, and water
+carriers are continually taking away from it throughout every mile of
+its winding course. The river is wider here but it has less volume than
+one thousand miles farther up the stream. It is unique also in the
+regularity of the annual inundations, which begin on almost the same
+day, continue the same length of time, and rise to an almost similar
+height each year, and have done so annually for untold centuries. In our
+land a flood is a disaster causing loss and sorrow; in this country it
+is a blessing producing wealth and joy. When the slowly rising waters
+each year reach the figures on the stone column of the Nilometer which
+show that the Nile has spread abroad his fertile bounty by covering the
+cultivable lands, and has filled the dams and ditches for future needs,
+the news is spread abroad and the people rejoice with festivities and
+processions."
+
+[Illustration: 'TWAS SCENES LIKE THESE WE LOOKED UPON.]
+
+Before taking the trip on the Nile we had thought that the days on the
+river might become monotonous and tiresome; but we found, on the
+contrary, that every hour was full of interest. Each day some excursion
+on shore was taken. One day the patient donkeys carried the tourists on
+a long trip to the ruins of the great temple of Seti at Abydos to view
+its sculptured columns and famous list of kings. On another day
+carriages conveyed us to the rock tombs on the limestone hills above
+Assiout and we visited the bazaars and the noted potteries of that busy
+town. On the last day of our sail the donkeys of Bedrashen were called
+into service for a ride through the palm forest and green fields, past
+the fallen columns of Ramses, to Sakkara, the tombs of the sacred bulls,
+and the pictured tombs of Ptahhotep and Ti.
+
+[Illustration: TROD ROUND AND ROUND THE WHEEL.]
+
+[Illustration: THE COLUMNS AT ABYDOS ARE OF GREAT SIZE.]
+
+"This is the height of enjoyment," said a member of our party one day
+while we were lounging in easy chairs taking afternoon tea on the deck,
+and lazily watching the panoramic scenes as the Amasis steamed down the
+river.
+
+[Illustration: DOTTED WITH PILES OF YELLOW WATER-JARS.]
+
+It was scenes like these we looked upon. Along the banks of the river at
+short intervals, the shadoof man, or drawer of water, with his shadoof
+resembling an old-fashioned spring-pole or well sweep, drew up his
+dripping bucket and lowered it again, his only garment an apron at the
+waist.
+
+    All through the day the red-brown man
+    Stands on his perch in the red-brown bank;
+    Waters never more gratefully ran,
+    Cucumbers never more greedily drank.
+
+    --Canon Rawnsley.
+
+Where the bank was very high, a series of two, three, or four natives,
+each with his spring-pole, raised the water one to the other until it
+reached the top and was poured into the little channels that carried it
+over the rich, but very thirsty soil of a rainless land. On the
+river-bank, also, interspersed with the shadoofs of the poorer class of
+agriculturists, the more prosperous farmers, who were the happy
+possessors of buffaloes or camels, lifted the irrigating water from the
+stream by means of sakiyehs, or wooden power wheels, which creaked
+unceasingly as the patient camels or buffaloes, with eyes covered by
+blinders of mud, trod round and round the wheel.
+
+    Rough clout upon his patient head,
+    The stately camel round doth go,
+    With gentle hesitating tread;
+    And yoked, and blind with frontlets, made
+    Of black Nile mud, the buffalo
+    Plies with him his unequal trade.
+
+    --Canon Rawnsley.
+
+A large Dahabeah with rugs, easy chairs, and piano on deck, and the
+stars and stripes hanging listlessly overhead, floated by, propelled by
+fourteen Arab rowers--there being no wind to fill the sails. A drove of
+gray buffaloes, forty in number, were taking their bath, splashing the
+water like a party of schoolboys in a swimming pool. A group of women
+filled earthen jars at the water's edge, and with the dripping jars on
+their heads mounted the steep river bank. Here and there were irregular
+groups of mud huts, intersected by crooked alleys and surrounded by date
+palms, little villages where doves were flying overhead and from which
+came the sound of barking dogs to mingle with the puffs of the steamer.
+Flat-bottomed boats freighted with sugar cane lay with drooping sails in
+a noonday calm, or, later in the day, sped before the evening breeze.
+Near the pottery towns the river banks were dotted with yellow water
+jars in scattered piles ready for shipment to the city market. Immense
+stacks of the sugar-cane just harvested had been brought to the shore
+for conveyance to the sugar factories. And fields of cotton covered with
+white bloom extended into the distance.
+
+We could see, too, the fertile Nile valley, not more than ten miles in
+breadth at its widest part, bounded on both sides by ranges of yellow,
+barren cliffs. On the western side the cliffs were farthest away; on the
+eastern side the valley was narrow, and the cliffs were sometimes
+distant, sometimes so near that they completely crowded out the
+cultivable soil and approached to the water's edge.
+
+"There is something peculiar in the air of this dry land," observed one
+of the tourists after sitting quiet awhile. "The atmosphere lends a
+softness to the outlines of distant objects and adds delicate tints in
+the afternoon light. See how the barren cliffs are glorified with a
+flush of pink, the wheat fields are a brilliant green, and the barley
+fields, almost ready for the harvest, are golden. Even the mud huts and
+the white-washed mosque of that village on the western shore have lost
+their crude outlines and have become picturesque. At sunset the western
+sky will change to crimson and the eastern cliffs will change to gold.
+The sunsets, though, are not so gorgeous in coloring, nor do they show
+such striking contrasts as I have seen occasionally in my western home,
+but they are beautiful."
+
+[Illustration: ALL EYES WERE FIXED ON THE MAGICIAN'S MOVEMENTS.]
+
+During the latter part of our sail down the Nile, where the river
+broadened and was shallow, we had some interesting experiences with
+sandbars.
+
+"This is the Amasis' last trip of the season," said one of the officers
+as we stood on the upper deck at the bow of the steamer watching two
+sailors poling below. "The Nile always falls rapidly in the spring, the
+channels change, new sandbars form, and navigation becomes difficult.
+The water is now very low, and we have to be careful and alert wherever
+the river broadens as it does here before us."
+
+On account of the indications of shallowness ahead the Amasis was
+steaming very slowly, occasionally merely drifting with the current. The
+two Arab boatmen stationed in the bow continually tested the depth of
+the water with poles and shouted in Arabic the results of their
+measurements to the anxious commander on the deck above. Notwithstanding
+these precautions, our steamer occasionally scraped on the sandbars,
+sometimes sticking on them for a short time.
+
+"Surely this is an unlucky day," exclaimed the captain later, looking
+at his watch as we came within sight of a railroad bridge with a draw in
+it that was then being closed for an approaching train. "It is now four
+o'clock, and, according to the official rules, that drawbridge is
+closed for the day and will not be opened for steamers to pass through
+until nine o'clock to-morrow morning. We shall have to anchor here until
+that time. That last stop of half an hour on the sandbar robs us of half
+a day's time."
+
+[Illustration: SHOVING FROM ITS DECK WITH LONG POLES.]
+
+The delay at the bridge was provoking, but a greater test of the temper
+of the officers and patience of the passengers was to come. On Friday
+morning while at breakfast we felt a jar that caused the vessel suddenly
+to stop. We heard an unusual puffing of the engine and felt vibrations
+that caused the steamer to tremble and the dishes to rattle.
+
+"What's the matter? What's the trouble?" cried several.
+
+"Struck another sandbar," laconically remarked the doctor at the end of
+the table. "Eat your breakfast. We'll be off in a few minutes."
+
+But succeeding events proved that the doctor was a false prophet. For
+during the next twenty hours the Amasis lay helpless in the midst of the
+stream, notwithstanding all the attempts of the officials and crew to
+free her from the bar, and it was not until Saturday morning that their
+efforts were crowned with success and the steamer floated free.
+
+However, we took the doctor's advice the first morning and finished our
+omelet and coffee. Then we hurried to the deck to investigate and ask
+numberless questions of the worried officials. Our baggage had been
+packed in anticipation of landing before noon at Cairo, which was but
+sixty miles distant, and we feared that a delay might interfere with our
+plans for a busy afternoon of sight-seeing in the city.
+
+"'Misery loves company,' says an old proverb. If that is true we should
+be happy," remarked one of the tourists as we gathered on the deck
+gazing at an animated scene. "Look! There are thirty boats in the same
+predicament as our own."
+
+[Illustration: PALMS GROW ON THE SITE OF ANCIENT MEMPHIS.]
+
+Within sight in different directions on the wide river lay thirty
+loaded feluccas stranded on the bars, and in addition to these were
+sixty-five others not aground. Alongside of one laden with live cattle a
+dozen sailors were in the shallow water, shouting and splashing,
+endeavoring to push their sloop off the bar. On many of the stranded
+sloops the sailors were transferring parts of their cargoes to other
+boats which were not aground. At some places the dark-hued laborers were
+shoveling grain from a stranded felucca into a lighter one; at others
+they were carrying unwieldy bundles of sugar-cane from one deck to
+another. Here they were handling, with much difficulty, large blocks of
+stone; there throwing yellow water-jars one at a time, passing
+red-bricks slowly, or shifting stacks of green clover from deck to deck.
+They accompanied the work of disburdening the vessels with strange cries
+and chants in which the name of Allah noticeably recurred, occasionally
+stopping to test the result of their labor by plunging into the water
+and pushing the felucca, or by shoving from its deck with long poles.
+
+One of the officers of the Amasis with some sailors in a row-boat
+carried an anchor to its cable's length from the steamer and dropped it
+in the water, then a donkey-engine on deck to which the cable was
+attached was started and the steamer shook with the throbs of the engine
+endeavoring to pull it off the bar toward the anchor. Unsuccessful in
+tugging the steamer in that direction, they raised the anchor into the
+row-boat and took it to other locations one after another; but the
+engine panted and throbbed in vain. In the meantime the captain had gone
+to a village on the shore, had hired sixty natives, and brought them
+out in boats. The Arabs, dropping off their long blue gowns, and arrayed
+only in loin cloths, jumped into the water, which was not over three
+feet in depth. Then, placing their shoulders against the steamer, the
+gang of naked Arabs, chanting in unison a prayer to Allah for help and
+protection, pushed, or pretended to push, in order to assist the puffing
+engine in its task. With intermissions for rest, the pushing, the
+throbbing, and the chanting of the Arabic song, "Allah il Allah, Allah
+il Allah," continued during the remainder of the day.
+
+[Illustration: THE PROSTRATE BROKEN STATUE OF RAMSES II IS ENORMOUS.]
+
+There was so much of interest happening around them that the passengers
+could scarcely take time to eat their meals, and their disappointment in
+not reaching Cairo was almost forgotten.
+
+"This has been to me one of the most interesting days of the trip. I
+will mark it with a red letter," said one of our party in the evening.
+"I do not regret the delay. I would not have missed those amusing and
+novel sights for anything."
+
+When efforts were resumed at dawn on Saturday, the Amasis floated free,
+and before noon we arrived at Cairo. Our joyous trip on the Nile, with
+its pleasant associations of fellow voyagers, dragomen, donkey boys,
+temples, tombs, and gallops over the sand, was at an end.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVI.
+
+NAPLES AND POMPEII.
+
+
+By noon on Sunday, March twenty-second, the various parties had
+reassembled as one large family on board the Moltke in the harbor of
+Alexandria, and shortly afterward they saw the land of the palms
+disappear from sight below the horizon. Friends and acquaintances who
+had chosen different excursions on land and had been separated for some
+time had many experiences to relate to one another. Some, who had taken
+the Damascus trip, gave a description of the magnificent ruins of the
+famous temple of Baalbek and of the enormous size of the granite blocks
+which lay scattered over the ground at that place, and displayed
+bargains in hammered brass and silken rugs which they had secured in the
+bazaars of the oldest city in the world. Others, who had taken a sail on
+blue Galilee and a journey on horseback through the interior of
+Palestine, told of the unexpected luxuries of camp life, of squalid
+villages and more squalid inhabitants, of bridgeless streams that had to
+be forded, of Arab camps and Bedouin chiefs, and of towns, mountains,
+plains, and wells, the names of which were familiar to the student of
+the Bible. They showed to their friends albums in which they had pressed
+the flowers gathered in villages where the Savior once strayed, or
+culled in fields through which He probably had trod. Some who had taken
+a carriage ride to the Dead Sea and the River Jordan described the
+loneliness of the road and the armed Bedouin protectors who accompanied
+them, the dilapidated condition of Jericho, the desolate shores and
+bitter salty taste of the Sea, the muddy banks of the River Jordan and a
+row on the rapid stream. Their souvenirs were vials filled with salt
+water from the Sea, and bottles of the fresh, but not very clear water
+from Jordan's stream.
+
+[Illustration: ON THE BANK OF THE RIVER JORDAN.]
+
+"The only place where we were treated with disrespect during our trip
+was in Hebron," said one of a group around a table in the library.
+"There the natives were an ill-tempered set. They scowled as if
+resentful of our presence, and when we were driving away some hoodlums
+of the town threw chunks of mud and stone after our carriage."
+
+"That reminds me," said another, "of a picture I want to show you. On
+the landing at Esneh up the Nile we thought that our clothes would be
+torn to pieces by the natives, but not through ill-will. The donkey boys
+were so eager to secure our custom that a struggle ensued in which
+donkey boys, donkeys, and tourists were inextricably mixed until the
+dragoman used his whip. My brother took a snap-shot of the scene just as
+Achmet raised his whip."
+
+Some of the tourists had stayed ten days in Jerusalem, some twelve days
+in Cairo, others had been at Philæ and the Cataract of the Nile. Each
+one was enthusiastic over his trip and appeared to be satisfied with the
+way in which the eighteen days in Palestine and Egypt had been spent.
+
+Monday dawned cloudy with some wind and rain, and although the weather
+was not stormy, the boat had that uneasy motion which had been felt once
+before on the Mediterranean. Many of the tourists, believing prevention
+better than cure, remained in their staterooms, or, snugly wrapped,
+reclined in their steamer chairs on deck and had luncheon served to them
+there, fewer than half the seats at the dining table being occupied.
+
+On Tuesday, however, the sea was as smooth as a river. The "Captain's
+Dinner," which had been postponed from the previous day on account of
+the weather, was announced for the evening, and the dining room was
+handsomely decorated with flags, garlands of artificial roses, and
+additional lights for the special occasion. The depression of Monday was
+forgotten and the tourists were in a happy humor.
+
+[Illustration: FILLED VIALS WITH WATER FROM THE DEAD SEA.]
+
+At the dinner the Captain made a neat speech referring to the pleasant
+relations during the voyage and the separation which was shortly to take
+place. The judge, in behalf of the passengers, responded in a jovial
+vein. "Three cheers for the Captain" were given with enthusiasm,
+followed by "He's a jolly good fellow," heartily sung. Every one arose
+as the orchestra played "America," and later, when the stars and
+stripes were dropped from overhead, all rose again to accompany the
+orchestra in the "Star Spangled Banner." Then the electric lights were
+turned out and while we sat in darkness, the stewards and waiters,
+dressed in fantastic costumes of various nations, entered and in a long
+procession marched around the room, each waiter carrying aloft an
+illuminated tower of ice-cream, and each steward a dish of bonbons. When
+the bonbons, containing whistles and fancy caps, were opened, the
+dignity of judge, professor, and minister was laid aside and the
+tourists were a joyous, noisy crowd of children.
+
+While we were at dinner the promenade deck was cleared of chairs,
+decorated with flags, and illuminated with Chinese lanterns in
+preparation for a masked ball which was to be the crowning and closing
+event of the day. In this fancy-dress carnival many of the passengers
+appeared dressed in fantastic gowns prepared during the day, or as
+Orientals in costumes that had been purchased in Eastern cities.
+
+While the maskers and onlookers were enjoying the music and sport, the
+Moltke was steaming northward through the Strait of Messina. On the
+right shone the lighthouses of Italy and the lights of the Italian town
+of Reggio; on the left gleamed the flash-lights of Sicily and long rows
+of twinkles revealed the location of the large city of Messina.
+
+On rising Wednesday morning we found the sea perfectly smooth with
+scarcely a ripple to disturb its blue surface. The Moltke was speeding
+through the waters with an almost imperceptible motion. On our left was
+the island of Capri, famous for its blue grotto, and the morning
+sunlight playing on its rugged shores, revealed a white road cut in the
+rocky cliffs, zigzagging up the side of the hill from the village at the
+base to the village on the summit. As the steamer coasted the Italian
+shore, we saw dimly through the mist the bay and town of Salerno, then
+picturesque Sorrento perched among the rocks, and, in the distance,
+fog-crowned Mount Vesuvius with a thin column of smoke ascending from
+the crater, and many towns and villages at its base. Directly ahead of
+us were the bay of Naples and the city, partially hidden from our sight
+by a fog. Just before reaching the quarantine station a small steamer
+crowded with passengers emerged from the fog and crossed the course of
+the Moltke, narrowly escaping destruction.
+
+The Moltke dropped anchor at quarantine and a yellow flag was run to the
+top of the mast to remain floating there until the Italian physician had
+completed his examination and was convinced that there were not, and had
+not been, any cases of plague, cholera, or contagious disease on the
+ship. During the detention at quarantine a large mail was brought on
+board. We crowded eagerly into the office inquiring for letters. The
+stewards, not taking time to distribute the mail in the boxes, called
+out the addresses, and little thought was given to anything else until
+letters and papers were obtained and the news from home devoured.
+
+The fog soon rolled away and Naples, beautifully situated on the
+crescent-shaped shores of the bay, was disclosed to view. From the deck
+of the steamer we saw a picture unsurpassed in color and composition
+by any previously beheld, excepting, perhaps, the view of Constantinople
+from the Bosporus, or the panorama of Algiers seen from the sea; but
+each one of the three pictures was unique and beyond comparison. But
+here, as at Constantinople, distance lent an enchantment to the view;
+for a closer inspection after landing revealed on the white and yellow
+and pink buildings ravages of time and unsightly stains of smoke and
+grime unnoticed from the bay.
+
+[Illustration: THE GREAT DOORWAY OF THE TEMPLE OF HORUS AT EDFU.]
+
+We had no sooner reached the street, ready for sight-seeing, than the
+cabriolet drivers thronged about, importuning us to ride in the low open
+carriages that comfortably carry two persons.
+
+"How much to the Cathedral?" we asked one of the drivers, using an
+expression that we thought the Italian might comprehend.
+
+"One lira the course, one and a half lire the hour," he succeeded in
+getting us to understand.
+
+"Only ten cents each. And it's fully two miles to the Cathedral!"
+exclaimed my companion. "But we have a number of places to visit," he
+added, "and it will be better to engage the cab by the hour. Show him
+your watch and make a note of the time."
+
+At the entrance of the Cathedral, the beggars asking alms reminded us of
+the description of similar scenes at the gate of the Temple in the
+Savior's time. A blind man standing by the door called loudly upon the
+passers-by to have pity on him, a cripple seated on the steps with rough
+crooked crutches by his side stretched out his hand for aid, and a fat
+dirty woman with a tiny babe in her arms whiningly cried, "poveretta
+mia! poveretta mia!"
+
+[Illustration: I. THE ISLAND OF CAPRI.]
+
+[Illustration: II. VILLAGE AT ITS BASE AND VILLAGE ON ITS SUMMIT.]
+
+The regular services in the Cathedral were over when we entered, but
+many people were in the building. Some were in silent adoration before
+the Cross at the magnificent high altar; some were worshiping at the
+foot of the Virgin, or praying at the shrines of the saints; others were
+contritely kneeling at the confessional boxes with faces close to the
+little grated windows, whispering deeds of misdoing to the confessor
+within and awaiting the father's words of penance or of absolution. We
+followed a crowd of Italians who were going into a chapel at the side
+where preparations were being made for a special service. There being no
+pews or sittings in the chapel, but a few plain chairs for hire, we paid
+the verger two cents for the use of a chair and waited. Wooden benches
+were placed in line to form an aisle and a number of women and children
+knelt at the benches, each holding a large unlighted candle.
+
+A cardinal in a red robe came down the aisle, accompanied by a surpliced
+acolyte bearing a cup of oil. As the cardinal passed each kneeling
+person, he dipped his thumb into the oil and then, repeating a formula,
+made a sign of the cross with his thumb on the worshiper's forehead. A
+priest in black cassock and a chorister in white followed the cardinal,
+the priest wiping the foreheads with a piece of cotton and the chorister
+taking the candles which were handed to him as offerings to the church.
+
+The doors of the magnificently adorned Cathedral were open to rich and
+poor alike; but the poor were in the majority, and among them appeared
+such cases of slovenly poverty as we had not seen elsewhere, not even in
+Jerusalem or Constantinople, for in the Moslem cities fountains were at
+the gates of the mosques and no worshiper entered the sacred edifice
+with soiled hands or feet. Three cases of slovenliness we noted
+particularly. A woman of middle age, with tangled hair, torn, untidy
+dress and soiled, stockingless feet partially covered by dilapidated
+slippers, was violating the rules of the church by sidling up to
+strangers and stealthily begging within the building; a boy, probably
+sixteen years of age, hatless, shoeless, coatless, with pantaloons in
+need of patches and body in need of soap, stood gazing curiously at the
+ceremony; and a man whose whole attire consisted of a ragged shirt and
+cotton trousers, with marks of grime on hands, neck, and face, leaned
+carelessly against a pillar with bare feet thrust forward. But these
+were extreme and exceptional cases of untidiness, the worshipers
+generally being neatly clad and careful of their personal appearance.
+
+The military band was playing on a platform when we visited the park and
+the paths and the grass plats were filled with people, many standing and
+a few seated on chairs. Noticing some unoccupied chairs, we sat down to
+listen to the music and watch the life and movement of a Neapolitan
+crowd. We had scarcely taken our places when a woman with a badge and a
+bag approached, demanding ten centessimi for each seat. "Gratia!" she
+said when paid, and "Gratia!" we responded, grateful for a comfortable
+resting place.
+
+"I thought, before we started on this trip, that sight-seeing prolonged
+day after day might become monotonous and that I might lose interest,"
+remarked one of the group seated on the chairs, "but, on the contrary, I
+find continual variety. Our drive through the beautiful residence
+section and suburbs on the heights this morning was charming, and the
+extensive landscape and marine view from the Convent of Camaldoli is
+unsurpassed, save by the view from Mustapha Superieur. Each place
+visited has differed so thoroughly from all the others that my interest
+is as intense now as when we landed at fascinating Funchal."
+
+"In each city I am compelled to replenish my stock of films; I find so
+many pleasing subjects," replied an artist who always had his camera
+with him. "Did you see those women on the hillside road at Capri
+carrying wine kegs on their heads? They posed for me to take a picture
+of the group. It was not necessary to tell them to look pleasant; every
+face wore a smile. I am sorry that my kodak does not reproduce colors.
+The dresses of the women, though worn and faded, were very picturesque
+in their combinations of scarlets, blues, and yellows."
+
+"And I regret that cameras cannot reproduce the beautiful azure and
+silver tints of the interior of the Blue Grotto just as we saw it
+yesterday," said one of the ladies who was collecting photographs and
+postal cards. "I want a good picture of the Grotto Azzurra but I cannot
+find one. Those that are offered for sale are such poor imitations."
+
+After the concert was over, we entered the salt water aquarium of
+Naples, which is famous throughout Europe as the finest and largest
+ichthyological collection in the world. In the glass tanks curious sea
+fish darted through the water, grotesque sea monsters crawled over the
+pebbles, and transparent jelly fish floated slowly; pink and white sea
+anemones, like a bed of flowers, opened and closed, and diminutive sea
+animals, almost invisible, spread thread-like tentacles; sponges and
+coral grew upon the rocks, and mollusks showed by their movements that
+they had life.
+
+One evening we drove to the suburban village of Posilipo and from the
+cliffs at that place saw the sun descend in glory, a golden ball
+dropping into a radiant sea. While we were returning, a picturesque
+beggar with a crooked stick and one string across it trotted alongside
+our carriage, trying to convince us that he was a musician and his music
+worth a penny. At dusk, an Italian boy ran alongside the carriage,
+opened and lit the carriage lamps while the horse was moving at a rapid
+gait, and asked for payment.
+
+Naples is a city of striking contrasts. It was interesting to study
+them. We drove over well paved streets, admiring marble palaces, great
+hotels, and beautiful homes; but with feelings very different from
+admiration we walked through narrow, filthy thoroughfares, densely
+populated, where networks of clothes lines with garments of all colors
+hung overhead. We saw high-spirited horses and superb carriages in the
+avenues and parks, and teams of handsome cream-colored oxen in the
+suburbs: but we saw also in the highways, small, rough-coated donkeys
+overburdened with panniers of fruit; tall, bony horses mismatched with
+diminutive donkeys; incongruous teams composed of a cow and a donkey,
+or a large ox and a small cow; and a team even more grotesquely made up
+of a horse, a cow, and a donkey. We saw the elite of the city elegantly
+dressed in the latest fashion promenading in the shopping districts; but
+on the sidewalks of the tenement district we saw slovenly barefooted
+women washing clothes, cooking maccaroni, scrubbing children in a tub,
+and combing children's hair with fine combs, regardless of our curious
+gaze. Here, too, we saw boys, apparently eight or ten years of age,
+playing in the streets with no other clothing than a shirt reaching to
+the knees, and women peddlers of mineral water dressed in ragged red
+blouses and blue skirts, who, with disordered hair and stockingless,
+slipshod feet, shuffled by pushing hand-carts filled with earthen jugs.
+
+[Illustration: PEASANT GIRLS THEIR BURDENS BEAR.]
+
+On the avenues street peddlers besought us to purchase canes, matches,
+coral beads, and souvenirs cut out of lava, but asked prices four or
+five times their actual value. On the narrow streets dealers in cooked
+viands for the home trade did an active business at low prices, but did
+not think it worth while to offer us the hot potatoes, maccaroni, fried
+fish, and stewed meats which they prepared on little sidewalk stoves.
+
+[Illustration: AMALFI, WHERE THE WAVES AND MOUNTAINS MEET.]
+
+The trip from Naples to Pompeii was made by rail in less than an hour.
+At the gates of the enclosure we each paid an admission fee of two lire,
+or forty cents, and official guides were assigned to conduct the party
+through the streets of the excavated city.
+
+"About one hundred and fifty years ago," explained the guide, "a farmer
+ploughed up some objects of art in this locality. The government,
+hearing of the discovery, ordered investigation to be made. Removal of
+the soil disclosed a house and furniture and articles of value. The
+excavations, carried on irregularly for a century, then continued
+regularly but slowly for the past fifty years and still in progress,
+revealed the ancient city that had been smothered in ashes and buried
+from sight for eighteen hundred years. The wooden roofs, crushed in by
+the weight above them, had crumbled into dust, but the walls and
+columns, the altars and statues, the fountains and baths, the paved
+streets and mosaic pavements, and the frescoes on the walls had been
+preserved by the covering of ashes, and were in almost as good condition
+as when deserted by the terror-stricken inhabitants. All articles of
+value, as soon as found by the excavators, were carried away to the
+museums and carefully preserved; but the uncovered walls were left
+exposed to the weather, and, as you will see, are badly damaged and
+defaced. The government for the past few years, however, has been
+protecting the newly excavated buildings by enclosing and roofing them
+over, and in these we shall find the beautiful Pompeian red and blue
+colors and the dainty frescoes well preserved on the walls."
+
+[Illustration: BEARING PANNIERS OF FRUITS AND VEGETABLES.]
+
+This ancient city of probably only twenty-five thousand inhabitants had
+improvements that we now designate as modern. The streets, just wide
+enough for one wagon track with narrow footways on each side, were paved
+with square flat stones in which the chariots had cut deep wheel ruts.
+The public baths had separate rooms for men and women, exercise courts,
+sweating rooms, furnace heat, hot baths, cold baths, capacious marble
+plunge tanks, and cooling rooms in which the bathers, cleansed, oiled,
+and perfumed, could rest after the bath. The water supply was
+distributed through the city in the same manner as in our own cities.
+Lead water pipes conducted the water through streets and into buildings.
+Bronze stopcocks governed the fountains, and bronze inlets and outlets
+regulated the supply at the marble baths.
+
+"The Pompeian plumbers used good material and did good work," commented
+a manufacturer after examining the plumbing.
+
+"If I could produce paints that would endure for centuries, and have
+them laid on as the Pompeian artists applied them, my fortune would soon
+be made," remarked another, who had been impressed particularly by the
+brightness of the red and blue on the walls of the House of Sallust.
+"But," he added, "the secret of making paint that will endure the
+ravages of time has been lost."
+
+In a baker's shop we saw four small stone mills in which grain had been
+converted to flour by hand power, the stones having been revolved by
+means of long wooden handles. Near the mills was an oven similar to
+those of the present time.
+
+"In this oven a number of loaves of bread were found," said the guide.
+
+"Yes," answered one of our party, "we saw fourteen loaves in the Museum
+of Naples yesterday and were told that it was the oldest bread in
+existence. The loaves were well preserved in form but were as black as
+charcoal."
+
+[Illustration: MADE A PICTURE THAT PLEASED THE ARTIST.]
+
+Our interest in Pompeii was heightened by our previously having visited
+the Naples Museum, where a multitude of articles found during the
+excavations were on exhibition. There we had examined hundreds of
+objects of art, marble statues, bronze statues, mosaics, vases,
+frescoes, and paintings; we had seen thousands of ornaments for personal
+adornment, necklaces, cameos, bracelets, rings, chains, and toilet
+accessories and had looked at numberless articles for household use,
+such as stoves, lamps, dishes, and kitchen utensils. Even food was not
+lacking in the exhibition, being represented by olives in a jar, oil in
+bottles, charred walnuts, almonds, figs, wheat, and eggs. These things,
+abandoned by the fugitives in their wild flight, helped us to imagine
+the taste and manner of living of the Pompeians before the destruction
+of their city.
+
+"This is the Amphitheatre," said the guide, as we assembled around him
+in the arena of a large structure. "Here fights between wild beasts,
+gladiatorial combats, and other great spectacles took place. Underneath
+the seats on one side are the dens where the lions and tigers were kept
+in a starving condition to make them ferocious, and underneath on the
+other side are the dungeons where prisoners were confined until forced
+into the arena to meet the wild beasts. On the hill nearby are the
+barracks where the gladiators lived and trained for combats." An
+announcement of an oldtime entertainment remains inscribed on one of the
+stone walls. It reads as follows:
+
+     Twenty pairs of gladiators, at the expense of Decimus, a priest,
+     and ten pairs of gladiators, at the expense of Lucretius, will
+     fight at Pompeii on the eleventh of April. There will be a complete
+     hunting scene, and the awnings will be spread.
+
+Another inscription on the wall stated:
+
+     On the dedication of the baths, at the expense of Maius, there will
+     be a hunt, athletic sports, showering of perfumes, etc., at the
+     Amphitheatre.
+
+"There was also a Tragic Theatre in Pompeii," continued the guide. "It
+was reserved for dramatic performances. The stone tiers seated an
+audience of five thousand. The Amphitheatre and the Tragic were open to
+the sky, but both were provided with awnings that could be spread above
+the seats to protect the people from the sun."
+
+[Illustration: I. LATELY EXCAVATED ARE CAREFULLY PROTECTED.]
+
+[Illustration: II. PUBLIC BATHS WITH ARCADES.]
+
+Almost all of us had read Bulwer-Lytton's novel, "The Last Days of
+Pompeii," and were familiar with his vivid description of the fearful
+eruption of Vesuvius which overwhelmed the city in the year A.D.
+79,--the darkness, the terror of the people, the hasty flight, the roar
+of explosions, the volcanic lightnings, the scorching ashes, the
+sulphurous fumes, and the hot rain. Very interesting to us were the
+places described by Bulwer in his novel; the dwelling of the magistrate
+Pansa, the villa of the wealthy Diomede where eighteen skeletons
+surrounded by provisions and jewels had been found, the house of the
+poet Glaucus whose threshold was guarded by the mosaic of a chained dog
+with the now well known motto 'Cave Canem' or 'Beware of the Dog.' Most
+interesting, perhaps, was the Temple of Isis, in which the most exciting
+incidents of Bulwer's novel took place. There the guide showed us the
+altar, the well, the secret stairway, the platform from which the oracle
+spoke, and the spot where the skeleton of the priest with an ax was
+found.
+
+"Broken columns and ruined walls are all that remain of the grandeur of
+the Forum," explained the guide as he led the way through a triumphal
+arch into a large area. "These extensive marble-paved floors were once
+decorated with statues of the illustrious men of Pompeii."
+
+"The Forum was a bustling place," he continued, as we stood in the
+centre of the area. "In the open court the people met to exchange
+opinions and obtain the news. On the porticoes the money changers made
+loans and the brokers sold real estate and grain. It was the political
+center of the city. Here the magistrates administered justice. Here
+the populace met with joyful acclamations to raise a favorite to power,
+and here, too, angry mobs gathered to compel an offending ruler to
+vacate his office. It was the religious centre as well; for adjoining
+the Forum are the ruins of the Temple of Mercury, the Temple of Venus,
+the Temple of Jupiter, and the Temple of Augustus."
+
+[Illustration: MOST INTERESTING, PERHAPS, IS THE TEMPLE OF ISIS.]
+
+When we were ready to leave Pompeii, after a tramp through other streets
+and a visit to the Museum, the subject of giving a fee to the guide was
+considered. At the gate when entering we had read a notice stating that
+guides furnished by the government were not permitted to accept fees
+from visitors. The guide assigned to us, however, had been very obliging
+and had given much interesting information. Appreciating this we slipped
+into his hand secretly at parting a token of our good will. "Gratia!
+Gratia!" very heartily he responded, assuring us that our gift, the
+forbidden, was acceptable.
+
+After returning from Pompeii to our steamship we found that although the
+evening hours had arrived, the harbor was still a scene of animation.
+Scores of Italian stevedores were carrying baskets of coal on their
+shoulders from barges into the bunkers of the Moltke. Near by other
+laborers were hoisting crates of lemons and oranges and lowering them
+into the hold of an English steamer. A little rowboat with a stove on
+board was running a brisk restaurant business, selling bread, coffee,
+fried eggs, fried potatoes, and fried fish to boatmen and laborers, who
+managed to devour the viands without assistance of plate, knife, or
+fork.
+
+Alongside our steamer a number of boys in a rowboat were making a
+distracting noise with tin pans and crude instruments, looking up in the
+hope that some one would pay them for creating a disturbance. In another
+boat, gaily attired Neapolitan musicians played and sang popular airs in
+a pleasing way that drew coins from the pockets of the hearers. At the
+close of each piece of music one of the women held a spread umbrella
+upside down to catch the coppers that were dropped into it from the deck
+thirty feet above.
+
+"The daylight ends too soon," regretfully observed one of our party, an
+artist of considerable reputation, who, seated in his favorite nook near
+the stern, was endeavoring to complete his color notes and sketches of
+the picturesque scenes before the darkness hid them from view. "But the
+sky above the mountain is reddening and the glow of Vesuvius will give
+me work for to-night."
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVII.
+
+NICE AND MENTONE.
+
+
+Throughout the cruise to the Orient, up to the time of departure from
+Naples, our party of tourists had the great steamer to themselves, there
+being no other passengers on board. At Naples, however, a change took
+place. As the Steamship Company granted us the privilege of remaining
+over in Europe and returning later in the season in some other steamer
+of the same line, a large number of the tourists left the Moltke at
+Naples for side trips on the Continent, and many more intended to leave
+at Nice; so that not more than one-fourth of the original number was
+booked to return direct from Nice to New York. During the time our
+steamer lay at Naples a cargo of freight was taken on board, and on the
+day of departure one thousand steerage passengers ascended the gangway,
+some with valises of curious shape, a few dragging trunks, but the
+greater number with all their possessions in bags or bundles.
+
+At ten o'clock on the night of March thirtieth, we stood at the rail
+watching the lights on the shore gradually disappearing from sight as
+the Moltke steamed away from the harbor.
+
+"What must be the thoughts of these Neapolitan exiles as they sail away
+from 'Sunny Italy,' their place of birth, their homeland, and their
+friends?" mused my friend, referring to the emigrants gazing farewell
+to their native land.
+
+[Illustration: MANY CLOTHES-LINES WERE FILLED.]
+
+"There is sadness in their hearts, for their faces and attitudes show
+it," said he, answering his own question. "Some of the women are
+shedding tears. But they are all hopeful. They have heard that in the
+promised land there is plenty of work, high wages, enough to eat, and,
+what is far better, opportunity to rise. In Italy there is scarcity of
+work, low wages, a chunk of black bread, and nothing better to look
+forward to in the future."
+
+"You are right, young man, there is something to look forward to in
+America, an opportunity to rise in the world," said a fellow tourist,
+well known as a man of wealth and distinction. "I can sympathize with
+these poor people who are seeking to better their condition. Thirty
+years ago I was a poor man, leaving Europe in the steerage as an
+emigrant to the land of promise. I worked my way to the West, became a
+miner, and met with success."
+
+"To reach America appears to be the desire of many in Italy," remarked
+another. "In the elevator of one of the hotels in Naples I found the
+elevator boy studying an English spelling book. He said, 'I am going to
+America as soon as I have money enough; there is a chance for me to
+become something if I can get to New York.' A cab driver asked me if I
+knew his cousin in Chicago. 'My cousin,' said he, 'saved enough money to
+buy a third-class passage to New York. That was just three years ago.
+Now he is sending money home to his friends to take them over. He must
+be doing well. We never have any money to give away.' Money to spare for
+his friends! That told the cabman the story of a golden land."
+
+On Tuesday, as we sailed northward, we passed the island of Elba, on
+which the banished Napoleon remained ten months after his abdication. We
+endeavored to recall the history of the events that preceded the great
+Emperor's first downfall; the campaign in Russia, the burning of Moscow,
+the winter retreat, the depletion of the grand army by frost and hunger.
+But when the little island of Monte Cristo came in sight, memory
+brought to mind pleasanter recollections,--Dumas' story of the "The
+Count of Monte Cristo," so wonderful in our youthful days, Edmond
+Dantes' escape from the dungeon, the cave on the island, and the
+fabulous wealth concealed therein.
+
+On the day of arrival at Nice, hundreds of owners of automobiles from
+all parts of Europe were assembled in that city for trials of speed; the
+morning races had taken place and the dust-covered racers were just
+coming in from their fast runs. On the way to the hotel we saw an
+automobile run over one man and knock another down. An excited French
+woman who was rolled over in the dust but not injured followed the
+offending car to the garage with tongue, hands, and arms all in rapid
+motion. She was giving the chauffeur a tongue-lashing and calling his
+attention to her soiled clothing. Her tirade prompted the chauffeur to
+draw some coins from his pocket and place them in her hand, and then her
+hurt feelings apparently were quickly relieved.
+
+Nice has a delightful climate. It is protected from the cold winds of
+the north by hills and mountains and fanned by the mild breezes of the
+sea. Royalty, beauty, and wealth make their abode in this favorite
+resort on the shore of the Mediterranean during the winter season, and
+English lords, French counts, Russian princes, German barons, and
+American millionaires sojourn at the magnificent hotels or reside in
+beautiful villas.
+
+The season of gaiety was just closing when we arrived and the hotels
+were not crowded, yet there was much to see. It was a pleasure to drive
+on the clean, well-paved avenues, which are shaded by great trees and
+lined with handsome homes and white stone hotels, passing lawns and
+gardens filled with palms, roses, choice flowers, and blooming vines. It
+was interesting to stroll along the sea front for two or three miles on
+a stone pavement fifty feet wide, the popular promenade of the city,
+with the waves of the blue sea rolling almost to your feet on one side
+and the wide avenue filled with handsome teams and motor-cars of every
+description on the other. It was entertaining to secure a chair in the
+park during the afternoon concert, and, comfortably seated, listen to
+the military band, admire the gowns of the French women, and note the
+variety of uniforms worn by the French officers. Those afternoons in the
+park were very restful for there was no hurry nor confusion nor crying
+of wares for sale, and the balmy sea breeze had a soothing effect on the
+nerves.
+
+The weather was delightful and the air pure and clear when, on the
+morning of April fourth, a party of sixteen filled the seats of a
+four-horse drag for a drive from Nice to Mentone over the famous
+Corniche road, a round trip of over forty miles, noted as one of the
+finest drives in Europe. We had decided to go to Mentone over the Upper
+Corniche road, which winds among the mountains, and return by the Lower
+Corniche road, which follows the shores of the sea.
+
+Our driver snapped his long-lashed whip and the horses started off as
+gaily as if they shared our exuberant spirits.
+
+"That is the river Paillon," said the driver, pointing to a diminutive
+stream in the midst of a wide stony bed. "The river has very little
+water in it now, but when the snow melts in the mountains it becomes a
+torrent."
+
+[Illustration: I. WINDS AMONG THE MOUNTAINS.]
+
+[Illustration: II. FOLLOWS THE SHORE OF THE SEA.]
+
+The little stream had a peaceful look. Many washer-women were busily at
+work along its banks, many clothes lines were filled with drying
+garments, and sheets were bleaching on the stones. A number of red
+objects in the distance proved, as we drew nearer, to be a company of
+red-trousered French soldiers washing their linen in the stream. Another
+company in red trousers and white shirts marched by us, carrying their
+bundles to the river. After leaving the river we passed an immense
+public wash trough where forty women were washing clothes and apparently
+having a social time. There was room at the trough for double that
+number.
+
+The macadamized road winding up the mountain side in easy grades,
+supported at many places by walls of substantial masonry, was in perfect
+condition. Occasionally as our team moved slowly upward we heard the
+"honk, honk" of a horn and a racing automobile making a time record flew
+swiftly by and was soon out of sight, or rushing down grade around sharp
+curves at tremendous speed toward us caused some hearts in our coach to
+palpitate in anxiety until the racer had safely passed.
+
+"At this spot a Russian Count and his friend were killed on the morning
+of the races," said our driver as we rounded one particularly sharp
+curve. "The count, expecting to be a winner in the race, was speeding
+his motor-car at the rate of fifty miles an hour, when it swerved
+against the rocks and he and his friend were hurled over the wall and
+crushed to death."
+
+[Illustration: WE LUNCHED IN MENTONE.]
+
+As we ascended the mountains we saw on the slopes below us orchards of
+gray olive trees, in the valleys orchards of dark green orange and lemon
+trees filled with yellow fruit, clean looking white or yellow or pink
+houses with red tile roofs dotting the landscape, and the white stone
+Hotel Regina, beautiful for situation, standing prominent on a summit.
+The rocks in the channel of the Paillon appeared to be a bed of pebbles.
+In the distance, to the south, could be seen the buildings of the city
+we had left and the glistening waters of the sea beyond; on the north,
+wooded hills and terraced mountains; and far away, the snow covered
+summits of the Alps. While we gazed at one of these scenes of beauty,
+the soft mellow tones of a convent bell came pleasingly to our ears.
+
+"Why is it the bells ring so sweetly here?" inquired one of the
+occupants of our coach. "It must have been melodious notes like these
+that pleased the ear of the poet Moore."
+
+At each turn of the road our point of view changed and the panorama
+unrolled before us. We looked down upon a series of beautiful pictures.
+The Mediterranean lay two thousand feet below us, its surface reflecting
+every shade of blue and green, its coast a succession of inlets, bays,
+promontories, and peninsulas. White roads winding among the shrubbery on
+the peninsulas looked like white ribbons on a green background, the red
+tiled houses like little toys, and the harbor of Ville Franche like a
+pond on which floated tiny boats that a child might play with.
+
+"What a picturesque town!" exclaimed a tourist.
+
+"That is the city of Eze. It is a very old city," said the driver.
+
+"Perched among the mountains, with its odd castle on a detached hill
+top," said one of the tourists "it reminds me of a painting by one of
+the old masters. Cimabue, I think, or Perugino. I cannot remember which.
+I am constantly regretting while traveling abroad that we are not more
+proficient in history and art. While the professor and the artist were
+with the party we could turn to them for information. But now we must
+depend upon ourselves."
+
+"Not necessarily," replied another, "for we have Baedeker and the
+guides; and there are the drivers, too, to call upon when they can
+understand our English or we can understand their French."
+
+For some distance beyond Eze the road followed the side of rugged
+limestone cliffs surmounted by fortifications and signal stations. At
+the old, queer-looking town of La Turbie, while the horses rested for an
+hour, we selected postal cards and took kodak views. Soon after leaving
+La Turbie, while descending the mountain, we looked down upon the little
+principality of Monaco, its capital, the city of Monaco, the palace of
+the Prince built upon a rocky promontory, and the white buildings of
+Monte Carlo.
+
+Mentone is a popular winter resort on the Mediterranean with handsome
+houses and flower-filled gardens. Vineyards and groves of orange, lemon,
+and fig trees, cover the hillsides surrounding the city. We lunched in
+Mentone, and were entertained under the palm trees of the hotel garden
+by a band of Italian musicians, one of whom, an amusing character actor
+as well as singer, responded cheerfully to our requests for special
+selections and solos.
+
+[Illustration: THROUGH THE PARK THAT SURROUNDS THE CASINO.]
+
+Our return from Mentone to Nice was through a succession of
+towns and villages. Along this coast road are many white hotels,
+comfortable-looking villas, and trimly kept lawns. In the gardens there
+were century plants, orange, lemon, and palm trees, and rose bushes of
+great size covered with bloom. On the tops of the garden walls, plants
+of various kinds were growing. Some of the walls were covered with long
+clusters of pink geraniums, some gracefully festooned with masses of
+overhanging heliotrope, and others draped with trailing vines aglow with
+scarlet bloom. The exuberant growth and bloom of these flowers attracted
+much attention and drew forth exclamations of delight.
+
+"Did you ever see geraniums and heliotropes growing in such luxuriance?"
+asked one of the ladies.
+
+"Only in my own state," replied a Californian. "There the plants grow to
+immense size and bloom in profusion."
+
+"Do not forget charming Funchal," said another. "Remember that there we
+saw geraniums and fuschias of wonderful size, and vines of pink
+bouguainvillia that covered the mountain-side cottages."
+
+At Monte Carlo, as we drove through the park that surrounds the white
+marble gambling palace, we admired the magnificent parterres of flowers,
+the beds of pansies being especially beautiful in variety of color and
+size of the flowers. On the piazza of the Café de Paris, where a band
+was playing, we had afternoon tea and from there watched the throng of
+visitors who were moving along the palm-lined paths or were ascending or
+descending the marble steps of the Casino.
+
+"Is there a charge for admittance?" we inquired of the guard at the
+entrance of the white palace.
+
+"No," he replied. "Present your visiting card at the desk of the
+Secretary in the corridor. He will approve. Then, after you have
+registered your name, a card of admission will be given you."
+
+In the decorated rooms where the games of chance were in operation, many
+handsomely gowned women and well-dressed men were moving from place to
+place conversing in quiet tones, but crowds were centered around the
+roulette tables, where the chairs were all occupied and many people were
+standing. We joined the throng around one of these and saw that the
+table was divided into numbered spaces, some colored red and some black.
+In the centre of the table was a little wheel with spaces to correspond
+in number and color to those on the table. The stakes were silver five
+franc pieces, one or more. No other coins nor bills were permitted on
+the table.
+
+"I will try it," said one of our party after watching the game awhile.
+"I will place a five franc on number seven black."
+
+The table was dotted with silver coins. The croupier touched a spring
+that sent a small ball spinning around the wheel. The ball stopped in
+space three red.
+
+"Three red wins," announced the croupier.
+
+A woman with gray hair and large diamonds in her ears picked up her
+winnings and added them to the stack of silver on the table in front of
+her, and the croupiers with wooden rakes raked in scores of coins that
+had been laid on losing numbers.
+
+At some of the tables in the magnificent apartments of the Casino the
+stakes were higher, twenty franc gold pieces being used, and at these
+tables, eager players, infatuated with the game, hazarded handfuls of
+gold on the turn of the wheel.
+
+"The chances to win or lose appear to be about even," said the
+Californian. "They must, however, be in favor of the Casino; for the
+company requires a large income to meet the enormous expenses incurred
+in keeping up this handsome palace and grounds with thousands of
+employees, croupiers, guards, gardeners, and care-takers. In addition,
+the company pays a heavy tax to the Prince of Monaco, and yet is said to
+have large profit."
+
+[Illustration: THE POPULAR PROMENADE OF THE CITY.]
+
+When our coach arrived at the hotel in Nice some one remarked: "You
+appear to be enthusiastic over your drive." We were; there was no doubt
+about it, and we might well have added that we were just as well pleased
+with the whole trip to the Orient. We started with great expectations
+and we were not disappointed.
+
+At Nice, when the Moltke sailed for New York, we parted with feelings of
+regret from many pleasant friends and companions whose acquaintance we
+had made during the trip, and with whom we had been agreeably associated
+on sea and on land.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Transcriber's Note:
+
+Minor spelling and typographical errors have been corrected without
+note. Some Illustrations have been moved to avoid splitting paragraphs
+and make smoother reading.
+
+Noteworthy corrections:
+Pausanius => Pausanias (p. 110)
+re-remarked => remarked (p. 254)
+cavaran => caravan (p. 281)
+Mahmond => Mahmoud (p. 338)
+symphathize => sympathize (p. 380)
+millionaries => millionaires (p. 381)
+exlaimed => exclaimed (p. 386)
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's A Trip to the Orient, by Robert Urie Jacob
+
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+      The Project Gutenberg eBook of A Trip To The Orient, by Robert Urie Jacob.
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+<pre>
+
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of A Trip to the Orient, by Robert Urie Jacob
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: A Trip to the Orient
+       The Story of a Mediterranean Cruise
+
+Author: Robert Urie Jacob
+
+Release Date: March 12, 2010 [EBook #31609]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A TRIP TO THE ORIENT ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Juliet Sutherland, Peter Vickers and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net
+
+
+
+
+
+
+</pre>
+
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/frontis.jpg" width="400" height="541"
+alt="WE ENTERED THROUGH THE GATE OF JUSTICE. " title="" />
+<span class="caption">WE ENTERED THROUGH THE GATE OF JUSTICE. </span>
+</div>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<h1>A TRIP TO THE ORIENT</h1>
+
+<h2>The Story of a<br />
+Mediterranean<br />
+Cruise</h2>
+<p><br /></p>
+
+<h4>BY</h4>
+<h2>ROBERT URIE JACOB</h2>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 150px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus002.jpg" width="150" height="328" alt="Title image" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<p class="center">ILLUSTRATED</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 25%;" />
+<p class="center">THE JOHN C. WINSTON CO.<br />
+PHILADELPHIA</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<p class="center">
+Copyright 1907, by<br />
+<span class="smcap">Robert Urie Jacob</span>.</p>
+
+<p class="center">Half-tones made by<br />
+The Photo-Chromotype Engraving Co.<br />
+Philadelphia, Pa.<br />
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_iii" id="Page_iii">[Pg iii]</a></span></p>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<p class="center">PREFACE.</p>
+
+<p>"A Trip to the Orient, the Story of a Mediterranean
+Cruise," by Robert Urie Jacob, has been written
+at the request of fellow-travelers who did not
+have time to take notes by the way.</p>
+
+<p>One said, "Do not write a guide book nor a love story,
+but a simple narrative that will recall the incidents and
+delightful experiences of the tour." Following these
+suggestions, but with many misgivings, the author has
+undertaken and completed the work, assisted in the
+editing and proof-reading by Miss Ruth Collins, of the
+Drexel Institute, and by Miss Anna C. Kauffman.</p>
+
+<p>An interesting feature of the book is the large number
+of illustrations made from artistic photographs, all of
+which have been kindly contributed by amateur photographers.
+It contains nearly two hundred illustrations of
+views or incidents in Funchal, Granada, Algiers, Malta,
+Athens, Constantinople, Jerusalem, Cairo, Luxor, Naples,
+and Nice, reproduced from photographs taken by Mr.
+L. O. Smith, Rev. G. B. Burnwood, Mr. Charles Louis
+Sicarde, Mr. Franklin D. Edmunds, Mr. Roberts LeBoutellier,
+Mrs. Charles S. Crosman, Miss M. Florence<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_iv" id="Page_iv">[Pg iv]</a></span>
+Pannebaker, Mr. Walter F. Price, Mr. S. L. Schumo,
+Mr. George C. Darling, Mr. Howard E. Pepper, Mr.
+John W. Converse, Mr. C. Edwin Webb, and Mr. Edwin
+Alban Bailey.</p>
+
+<p>The story was intended specially for voyagers who
+have visited the same places, but it may be almost equally
+interesting to those who are planning a similar trip. And
+those who must stay at home may in these pages be able
+to look through another's eyes at the places described.</p>
+
+<p>If the book should in any slight way deepen the pleasant
+memories of those who have made the trip, or if it should
+give pleasure to those who must picture those scenes only
+in their imagination, the author will feel that his effort
+has not been in vain.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_v" id="Page_v">[Pg v]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CONTENTS" id="CONTENTS"></a>CONTENTS.</h2>
+
+<table border="0" cellpadding="0" width="75%" cellspacing="0" summary="CONTENTS">
+<tr>
+<td colspan="2">CHAPTER.</td>
+<td class="rn">PAGE</td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="rn">I.&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+<td><span class="smcap">On The Ocean</span></td>
+<td class="rn"><a href="#CHAPTER_I">1</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="rn">II.&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+<td><span class="smcap">Funchal</span></td>
+<td class="rn"><a href="#CHAPTER_II">10</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="rn">III.&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+<td><span class="smcap">Gibraltar</span></td>
+<td class="rn"><a href="#CHAPTER_III">24</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="rn">IV.&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+<td><span class="smcap">Granada and the Alhambra</span></td>
+<td class="rn"><a href="#CHAPTER_IV">38</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="rn">V.&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+<td><span class="smcap">The City of Algiers</span></td>
+<td class="rn"><a href="#CHAPTER_V">60</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="rn">VI.&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+<td><span class="smcap">The Island of Malta</span></td>
+<td class="rn"><a href="#CHAPTER_VI">82</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="rn">VII.&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+<td><span class="smcap">Athens and the Acropolis</span></td>
+<td class="rn"><a href="#CHAPTER_VII">97</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="rn">VIII.&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+<td><span class="smcap">Constantinople and Santa Sophia</span></td>
+<td class="rn"><a href="#CHAPTER_VIII">128</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="rn">IX.&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+<td><span class="smcap">The Selamlik and the Treasury</span></td>
+<td class="rn"><a href="#CHAPTER_IX">154</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="rn">X.&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+<td><span class="smcap">From the Bosporus to Palestine</span></td>
+<td class="rn"><a href="#CHAPTER_X">179</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="rn">XI.&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+<td><span class="smcap">Jerusalem</span></td>
+<td class="rn"><a href="#CHAPTER_XI">199</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="rn">XII.&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+<td><span class="smcap">The Church of the Holy Sepulchre</span></td>
+<td class="rn"><a href="#CHAPTER_XII">227</a><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_vi" id="Page_vi">[Pg vi]</a></span></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="rn">XIII.&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+<td><span class="smcap">Cairo and the Pyramids</span></td>
+<td class="rn"><a href="#CHAPTER_XIII">257</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="rn">XIV.&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+<td><span class="smcap">Luxor and Karnak</span></td>
+<td class="rn"><a href="#CHAPTER_XIV">296</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="rn">XV.&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+<td><span class="smcap">On the Nile</span></td>
+<td class="rn"><a href="#CHAPTER_XV">327</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="rn">XVI.&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+<td><span class="smcap">Naples and Pompei</span></td>
+<td class="rn"><a href="#CHAPTER_XVI">353</a></td>
+</tr>
+<tr>
+<td class="rn">XVII.&nbsp;&nbsp;</td>
+<td><span class="smcap">Nice and Mentone</span></td>
+<td class="rn"><a href="#CHAPTER_XVII">378</a></td>
+</tr>
+</table>
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_I" id="CHAPTER_I"></a>CHAPTER I.</h2>
+
+<p class="center">ON THE OCEAN.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">[Pg 1]</a></span></p>
+
+
+<p>"Have you decided to go?" inquired my friend.
+Before us on the table lay an illustrated booklet
+containing the prospectus of a cruise to the
+Mediterranean. Its contents had been under consideration
+for some days.</p>
+
+<p>"Yes," I answered, "I will write to-day to secure
+state room accommodations for our party. Nevertheless
+I am not quite sure that it is wise to take the trip."</p>
+
+<p>"Why?"</p>
+
+<p>"For two reasons. First, are seventy days long
+enough to make a cruise of nearly fourteen thousand
+miles and visit so many places? Second, with five
+hundred passengers will there not be a crowd?"</p>
+
+<p>"Well, those doubts never troubled me. Seventy
+days is all that can be spared from my business, and
+much may be seen in that time. As to the number of
+passengers, every steamer carries its full complement.
+At any rate, you are going, so think no more of your
+doubts. You will probably forget that you had any."</p>
+
+<p>So it was that at seven o'clock on the morning of the
+fifth of February, when the steamship Moltke left her
+dock at New York, we stood among the passengers
+lined along her rail. The hawsers had been cast off,
+whistles were blowing, and tugs were puffing in their
+efforts to push and pull the huge vessel into the stream.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2">[Pg 2]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>At that early hour of a wintry day there was no crowd
+filling the pier, no sea of faces looking upward, no waving
+of handkerchiefs and flags, the usual sight when a
+great liner departs. The wharf, cheerless and dismal,
+appeared to be almost deserted. Its only occupants
+were a few scattered onlookers shivering in the cold,
+and the officials and employees whose duties required
+their presence. But on the Moltke, in spite of the chill
+air and the gray morning, all were animated and eager.
+The band played the "Belle of New York" while the
+ship was being warped into the stream, and the "American
+Patrol" while it was steaming down the river.
+The tourists, alert and expectant, viewed the panorama
+of the city as the tall buildings were brought into strong
+relief against the brightening sky, saw Liberty's cap
+reflect the rays of the rising sun, then watched the
+incoming steamers, and the forts and lighthouses that
+seemed to approach and pass. Just outside of Sandy
+Hook our pilot with a satchel of letters descended the
+rope ladder to the waiting tug, and soon afterwards the
+low-lying shores became dimmer and dimmer until they
+disappeared from view.</p>
+
+<p>The farewells had been exchanged on the previous
+day, when the promenade decks and saloons of the
+steamer were thronged with passengers, friends, and
+curious visitors, and the after-deck was encumbered
+with piles of baggage. Then, the tables in the main
+saloon were filled with boxes of flowers, baskets of
+fruit, packages of confectionery, and bundles of steamer
+letters marked to be opened on certain days after sailing.</p>
+
+<p>Before the departure we had met the deck steward<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">[Pg 4]</a></span>
+and with his assistance had located our steamer chairs;
+for in the places then selected the chairs were to remain
+throughout the long cruise. We had also interviewed
+the chief steward, had obtained from him a passenger
+list, and had arranged that our party should be seated
+together at one of the side tables in the dining saloon.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus010.jpg" width="600" height="353" alt="AT THE HOUR OF AFTERNOON TEA." title="AT THE HOUR OF AFTERNOON TEA." />
+<span class="caption">AT THE HOUR OF AFTERNOON TEA.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The passenger list contained four hundred and fifty-three
+names. Among these were thirteen preceded by
+the title Reverend, thirteen by Doctor, and a number
+by military or other titles of honor. Every state in
+the Union and several provinces of Canada had representatives
+on the list.</p>
+
+<p>During the first three days' sailing a storm, which had
+been predicted as approaching from the west when we
+left New York, followed but did not overtake us. We
+could not, however, remain on deck as long as desired,
+for the wind was chilly and the ocean rough. But
+each morning, laden with heavy wraps and rugs, we
+sought our steamer chairs. Then, settled comfortably
+under the wraps and rugs carefully tucked around us
+by the attentive steward, we defied the cold for an hour
+or two and inhaled the invigorating air.</p>
+
+<p>As the vessel made her way southward, the temperature
+moderated and the sea became smooth. By the
+time the stormy weather had passed, the tourists,
+accustomed to ship motion and ship life, spent most of
+their time upon the decks. Then, to increase sociability
+and make the time pass pleasantly, self-appointed
+committees met and laid plans for card parties, lectures,
+concerts, and dances.</p>
+
+<p>On the fifth night out the southern side of the prom<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[Pg 5]</a></span>enade
+deck was curtained with awnings, cleared of
+chairs, decorated with flags and Chinese lanterns, and
+brilliantly illuminated with clusters of electric lights,
+for an impromptu dance. Music was furnished by
+the band, and Father Neptune kindly kept his waves in
+subjection, although an occasional roll caused some
+unsteadiness in the movements of the waltzers.</p>
+
+<p>By that time we knew many of our fellow-voyagers.
+For, as we had similar plans, a common destination, and
+the same pleasures in anticipation, we readily made
+friendships. We chatted around the table during the
+luncheon and dinner hours, took a hand in euchre with
+men in the smoking room, or a place at whist with the
+ladies in the music room, and exchanged pleasantries
+and experiences with our neighbors while occupying the
+steamer chairs. Friendships grew rapidly under these
+favorable conditions. Sometimes chats with new acquaintances
+which began in a mirthful way changed to
+talks of a serious kind as some spoken word recalled
+home and friends left behind, and conversations when
+prolonged became almost confidential in their character.</p>
+
+<p>One afternoon while we were sipping the tea which
+had been served, a lady who occupied a chair next ours,
+said:&mdash;"I enjoy so much my hours in the gymnasium.
+Each morning I take a gallop on the electric horse and
+get my blood into circulation. The first day I felt
+rather timid in the saddle when the custodian asked,
+'Fast or slow?' so I said, 'Start slow,' but I quickly had
+him increase the speed, for I'm used to horseback riding."</p>
+
+<p>"We're from Texas, you know," spoke up a young
+woman sitting close by.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[Pg 6]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>"You should practice riding on the electric camel in
+preparation for our trip into Egypt," I suggested.</p>
+
+<p>"We have; we've tried all the arm and foot movements
+and have been thumped on the back, and on the
+chest, and even on our heads," responded the young
+woman. "But I wished for a rowing machine. Rowing
+is my favorite exercise."</p>
+
+<p>"Before we left home we all had many misgivings
+about this trip," remarked the elder sister. "We
+knew how large these steamships really are, but yet
+we had visions of many possible discomforts during so
+long a journey. We disliked tours in sleeping cars and
+couldn't realize the difference between traveling in cars
+and in ships. But our stateroom here is very cozy with
+the wardrobes and the racks for our books and our
+pictures."</p>
+
+<p>"And it seems homelike, too," added the other.</p>
+
+<p>The life on shipboard was to many a novel experience.
+In the mornings we were roused from our slumbers by
+the notes of a bugle. The first day when the reveille
+sounded I looked at my watch. It was a quarter to
+eight. "Must I get up?" I thought. Then remembering
+that the breakfast hour was from eight to ten, I closed
+my eyes. But soon there came a gentle tapping at the
+door. "Who's there?" I asked. "Your bath is ready,
+sir." The words were English but the accents were
+plainly German. That call was more imperative than
+the bugler's, for I might miss my invigorating salt water
+dip if I did not quickly respond. After a breakfast of
+fruit, cereals, chops, and coffee we went to the deck for
+a tramp. "Ten rounds of the promenade deck make<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[Pg 8]</a></span>
+a mile," said my room-mate consulting his pedometer.
+Then we strolled to the library for books, but the books
+lay unread in our laps when we were seated in our steamer
+chairs; for how could our minds be fixed on the story
+when the real life before us was more interesting?
+The Professor who was to lecture during the trip stepped
+by with rapid tread, nodding as he passed. The minister
+from Iowa who was to preach on the Sabbath
+stopped to exchange greetings, a friend dropped into
+a vacant chair for a talk. Then the music stands were
+set up and the band assembled around them and for an
+hour we listened to selections from Wagner and Bach,
+varied with the martial strains of Sousa or the melodies
+of Foster. The stewards brought out a table, filled
+it with dishes, and served bouillon and biscuit, while
+near by a kodak carrier was snapping a picture.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus014a.jpg" width="600" height="173" alt="I. COMFORTABLY SEATED WITH A BOOK." title="I. COMFORTABLY SEATED WITH A BOOK." />
+<span class="caption">I. COMFORTABLY SEATED WITH A BOOK.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus014b.jpg" width="600" height="174" alt="II. THE BAND WAS PLAYING CARMEN." title="II. THE BAND WAS PLAYING CARMEN." />
+<span class="caption">II. THE BAND WAS PLAYING CARMEN.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>On the ship there were many places of interest.
+When in need of exercise we visited the gymnasium on
+the upper deck, and when desirous of a change in cooking
+we resorted to the grill room where the white clad
+cook broiled chops in our sight over a bright fire. Impelled
+by curiosity, we explored the vacant steerage, and
+with the chief engineer descended the iron ladder to the
+depths below to investigate the mysteries of the engine
+and fire rooms. Sometimes from the breezy fore-deck
+we scanned the horizon for the ships that rarely appeared,
+and sometimes sought a snug corner aft and
+watched the swift-winged gulls, the quivering log line,
+the smoke clouds and their shadows, or the widening
+streak of water disturbed by the revolving screw.</p>
+
+<p>"How rapidly the week has passed," said a friend on<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[Pg 9]</a></span>
+the evening of the twelfth of February. "Listen! One,
+two, three, four," as the ship's bell rang out four strokes.
+"Four bells, that's six o'clock. We have half an hour
+to dress for dinner."</p>
+
+<p>When we entered the brilliantly illuminated dining
+saloon that evening a bust of Lincoln was on the platform,
+and the room was decorated with the American
+colors. Some one had remembered Lincoln's birthday,
+though many of the passengers had forgotten the date.
+A picture of Lincoln with the inscription, "In commemoration
+of President Abraham Lincoln's birthday,"
+was engraved on the covers of the souvenir menus.
+The dinner was an unusually good one, and the seven
+selections rendered by the orchestra during the courses
+were appropriate for the day.</p>
+
+<p>After dinner a man who had been personally acquainted
+with the martyred President delivered an
+interesting memorial address. His final words had just
+been said when an announcement was made which
+caused a thrill of expectancy and sent us hurriedly to
+the deck: "Land is in sight!"<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[Pg 10]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_II" id="CHAPTER_II"></a>CHAPTER II.</h2>
+
+<p class="center">FUNCHAL.</p>
+
+
+<p>"That is the island of Madeira," said the captain,
+pointing to a dark mass dimly seen against the
+horizon. "We are now nearly twenty-eight hundred
+miles southeast of New York."</p>
+
+<p>We had been sailing for seven days with only a vast
+expanse of ocean in view, and so we longed for a sight
+of land and eagerly looked forward to the arrival at our
+first port. As we approached the island the form of a
+mountain became clear in the star-light; then the
+twinkling of lights at its base revealed the location of a
+city. When within half a mile of the shore, the water
+in the harbor became too shallow for large vessels, so
+the screw propeller of the Moltke ceased revolving and
+the ship came to anchor.</p>
+
+<p>"May we go ashore to-night?" many asked.</p>
+
+<p>"Certainly, there is no objection," replied the captain.</p>
+
+<p>A number of the passengers, eager to see the attractions
+of the place, and too impatient to wait until
+morning, were rowed across the dark water to the pier.
+In the city, Funchal, we found that at so late an hour
+the main attractions were gambling places, dance halls,
+and lotteries, the owners of which were greedy for
+American money. The main Casino, in the midst of a
+beautiful garden, was brilliantly illuminated and its<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[Pg 12]</a></span>
+halls were filled with well dressed people. Some of
+the party who had placed their silver on the tables of
+chance showed on their return to the steamer handfuls
+of coins that fortune had brought them; others who
+had made similar experiments were silent as to the
+results.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus018.jpg" width="500" height="289" alt="SUNLIGHT SHONE ON THE WHITE WALLS OF FUNCHAL." title="SUNLIGHT SHONE ON THE WHITE WALLS OF FUNCHAL." />
+<span class="caption">SUNLIGHT SHONE ON THE WHITE WALLS OF FUNCHAL.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>"We should have read up the Madeiras before leaving
+home," said one of the tourists at our early breakfast
+the morning after our arrival, "but we were too busy
+then with other things. While you were ashore last
+night I found in the library an old English book of
+travel that gave some information about the islands."</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus019.jpg" width="500" height="328" alt="IT IS NOT RAPID TRANSIT." title="IT IS NOT RAPID TRANSIT." />
+<span class="caption">IT IS NOT RAPID TRANSIT.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>"Share it with us while the stewards are bringing the
+coffee, won't you?"<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[Pg 13]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus020.jpg" width="500" height="293" alt="ONLY THE BOYS STOPPED THEIR PLAY TO GAZE." title="ONLY THE BOYS STOPPED THEIR PLAY TO GAZE." />
+<span class="caption">ONLY THE BOYS STOPPED THEIR PLAY TO GAZE.</span>
+</div><p>
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[Pg 14]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>"I made very few notes," she replied. "As we are to
+be in Funchal but one day, I skipped the statistics of
+population, hotels, exports, and history. But here
+are some facts just as I jotted them down:</p>
+
+<p>"'The Madeira Islands, about six hundred miles west
+of Gibraltar, were settled by the Portuguese and are
+owned by Portugal.</p>
+
+<p>"'The principal and only town large enough to be
+called a city is Funchal, situated on the southern side
+of Madeira on the slope of a hill.</p>
+
+<p>"'The city has an equable climate. Mild sunshine,
+gentle ocean breezes, and protection from harsh winds
+by mountains, give to Funchal throughout the whole
+year the temperature of England in the month of May.</p>
+
+<p>"'The island is very mountainous, gashed with many
+deep gorges which extend in from the sea. The streets
+in the city are paved, but the roads in the country are
+impassable for wagons. Merchandise is carried on
+pack mules or in ox-drags. Horses are rarely seen and
+carriages are few. Quaint vehicles are used in their
+stead for the conveyance of passengers.'</p>
+
+<p>"How odd these vehicles are we shall find out when
+we land. We shall have a busy day. I am eager to
+start."</p>
+
+<p>It was yet early when we ascended the deck, but the
+sun was shining brightly. Funchal appeared like a
+beautiful picture. Overhead was the azure sky of a
+summer day; before us, stirred by a gentle breeze,
+glistened in blue and silver the waters of the harbor;
+on the curving shore, tier above tier, reflecting the sunshine,
+rose the white and yellow stone buildings of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[Pg 15]</a></span>
+city surmounted by roofs of red tiling; above the city,
+white cottages amidst a dense foliage of green shrubbery
+dotted the steep hillsides, and beyond, but seeming
+very near, higher mountains formed a dark and appropriate
+background.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus022.jpg" width="600" height="528" alt="THE WOMEN WERE WASHING CLOTHES." title="THE WOMEN WERE WASHING CLOTHES." />
+<span class="caption">THE WOMEN WERE WASHING CLOTHES.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>"The steam tenders are ready to carry you to the
+shore," announced one of the officials, interrupting our
+survey of the picture.</p>
+
+<p>We descended the long ladder of fifty steps from the
+deck of the steamer to the bobbing barge in the water<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[Pg 16]</a></span>
+below, and were soon landed on the stone steps of the
+breakwater, which, extending out to a picturesque crag,
+protects and partially encloses the harbor. There, in
+place of cabs, a hundred low sleds with canopy tops and
+cushioned seats were in readiness to convey us on a
+sight-seeing excursion through the city. This ride
+in ox-drags was a novel experience. Each sled was
+dragged by two bullocks, driven without reins by loud-voiced
+natives who, with frequent yells and prodding
+sticks, urged on their teams. The drivers carried bunches
+of greasy rags which they occasionally threw underneath<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[Pg 17]</a></span>
+the sled-runners as a lubricant to diminish the friction
+of their movement over the stone-paved streets.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus023.jpg" width="600" height="487" alt="IN THE SLED READY TO START." title="IN THE SLED READY TO START." />
+<span class="caption">IN THE SLED READY TO START.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The sights in the city were strange. The shops on
+the narrow streets were plain and unattractive, and the
+signs unintelligible. The windows of the lower floors
+of the dwellings were grated with iron bars like a prison.
+Beneath a bridge over a walled ravine that kept a
+rushing stream within bounds in the rainy season, women
+washed clothes and spread them on rocks to dry. In
+the public square the women carrying water from the
+fountain or chatting on the sidewalks appeared to have
+little curiosity regarding the visitors in their city, and
+the men, lounging on the steps of the fountain, cast but
+careless glances in our direction; only the boys stopped
+their play to gaze awhile at the passing strangers.</p>
+
+<p>"This plodding team seems fitting in such a peculiar
+place," remarked one of the quartet in our sled. "Although
+it is not rapid transit, it is comfortable. But
+look, there is a more luxurious mode of traveling."
+As he spoke he pointed to two Portuguese bearing
+suspended on a pole a handsome hammock in which
+a lady reclined languidly.</p>
+
+<p>At the foot of the mountain we changed from the
+slowly moving sleds to the car of a cog-wheel railway,
+which carried us up the steep incline. The speed of the
+car was not much greater than that of the ox-team. As
+we ascended, scenes of beauty opened around us. Cottages
+built on terraces were covered with blooming bouguain-villea
+or climbing roses. Patches of cultivated land
+were filled with sugar cane, banana plants, and orange
+trees. Palms and cacti appeared in many varieties.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[Pg 18]</a></span>
+Flowers bloomed on every side. Geraniums, fuschias,
+and heliotropes were of enormous size. Camelias, lilies,
+and nasturtiums grew in profusion. Children from the
+suburban cottages ran alongside the moving car, merrily
+casting roses, heliotropes, geraniums, and camelias
+through the open windows into our laps, and the tourists,
+pleased with the floral offerings, in return tossed pennies
+to the running children.</p>
+
+<p>When we alighted from the car, young peddlers, some
+bright-faced and clean, others ugly and dirty, offered
+flowers and trinkets for sale and beggars asked for money.
+But our pennies were exhausted and we were glad that
+peddlers and paupers were not permitted to follow us
+into the hotel grounds.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus026.jpg" width="600" height="354" alt="ON THE PIER WE BOUGHT FLOWERS." title="ON THE PIER WE BOUGHT FLOWERS." />
+<span class="caption">ON THE PIER WE BOUGHT FLOWERS.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>"Here you may lunch," said the guide, as we entered
+a hotel on the mountain, "and get pure Madeira wine.
+The wine which is made in this island was at one time
+its most noted production; but some thirty years ago
+insects and disease so infested the vines that many
+vineyards were destroyed and the quantity of wine now
+made is not so large as in former years."</p>
+
+<p>After having luncheon and tasting the well known
+wine in its purity on a broad piazza overlooking a beautiful
+tropical garden, we wandered through an interesting
+old church and convent near by, and then strolled
+around a mountain pathway from which, as the guide
+said, "views most grand" might be seen. As we
+advanced on our way we looked down from the height
+upon many continually changing scenes of picturesque
+beauty. Now there appeared a vista through a wooded
+ravine of striking grandeur, now a view of a rocky<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[Pg 20]</a></span>
+gorge penetrating from the ocean, and again a wide
+panorama of city, harbor, and ocean.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus027.jpg" width="400" height="466" alt="THE SLIDE IS TWO MILES IN LENGTH" title="THE SLIDE IS TWO MILES IN LENGTH" />
+<span class="caption">THE SLIDE IS TWO MILES IN LENGTH</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Our return to the city was in a conveyance indeed
+unique. The descent of the mountain in sleds from the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[Pg 21]</a></span>
+summit to the city below, through narrow lanes paved
+with small stones worn and slippery from years of
+service, was an experience long to be remembered.
+Our sled, without any means of propulsion but our own
+weight, glided rapidly down the hill over the smooth
+surface of the pavement like a toboggan on an icy slide.
+It was controlled by two men, who, sometimes running
+alongside, sometimes clinging to the runners, regulated
+the speed and guided the sled around corners by means
+of ropes attached to its sides.</p>
+
+<p>"That was a wild and exciting ride," exclaimed one
+of the ladies who had been tightly holding to her seat
+during the descent. "What is the distance from the
+summit?"</p>
+
+<p>"The slide is about two miles in length, lady," replied
+one of the conductors.</p>
+
+<p>"Don't take our picture now with our hair flying
+wildly," exclaimed an occupant of a sled just arriving,
+to a friend with a camera.</p>
+
+<p>"Your request comes too late," he answered. "I
+have pressed the button."</p>
+
+<p>"I hope it will not be a good one," she wished, but
+it was.</p>
+
+<p>When we returned to the Moltke many row-boats were
+clustered around the vessel. Some of these had brought
+visitors who desired to inspect the ship. Some contained
+Portuguese merchants, who, with cargoes of embroidery,
+wicker chairs, straw goods, fruits, photographs, and
+curios, had been patiently awaiting our return. When
+they were permitted to come on board they displayed
+their wares upon the deck and made many sales. Other<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[Pg 22]</a></span>
+small craft contained half-naked boys who shouted to
+us to test their skill as divers by throwing pennies into
+the clear but deep emerald water, claiming that they
+could secure the money before it reached the bottom
+of the bay. We complied with the boys' request and
+exhausted the ship's supply of pennies in putting their
+dexterity to the proof. When the money was thrown
+into the sea the young experts, diving like beavers and
+successful in securing the money, rose to the surface
+and clambered into the boats holding the coins in their
+mouths. One youth more daring than the others
+mounted to the upper deck of our steamer and offered,
+if a shilling instead of a penny was thrown into the water,
+to plunge from his high perch to the sea fifty feet below
+and get the silver. And he won much applause by
+successfully accomplishing the feat.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus029.jpg" width="600" height="344" alt="THE TUG CARRIED US TO THE MOLTKE." title="THE TUG CARRIED US TO THE MOLTKE." />
+<span class="caption">THE TUG CARRIED US TO THE MOLTKE.</span>
+</div><p>
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[Pg 23]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Toward evening the whistle of the steamer sounded
+warning notes. The time for sailing was at hand.
+The tourists who had been loitering on the shore hastened
+to return. The peddlers on the deck reluctantly
+packed their unsold wares and with their bundles descended
+the ship's ladder. The visitors, after courteously
+bidding adieu to the officials who had been entertaining
+them, took their departure. But the trained
+swimmers whose antics in the water were giving so
+much amusement tarried until ordered away. Then
+while our band played a farewell air, Sousa's "Hands
+Across the Sea," the Moltke slowly steamed out of the
+harbor.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[Pg 24]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_III" id="CHAPTER_III"></a>CHAPTER III.</h2>
+
+<p class="center">GIBRALTAR.</p>
+
+
+<p>"Is not this a German vessel?" asked a passenger of
+the first officer, as they stood conversing near the
+gymnasium on the upper deck the morning after
+we left Funchal.</p>
+
+<p>"Most surely it is," he replied, astonished at the
+question.</p>
+
+<p>"Then," pointing to the red ensign floating at the top
+of the foremast, "why does the Moltke fly the British
+colors?"</p>
+
+<p>"The British flag at our foremast indicates that this
+ship is bound for a port that belongs to Great Britain,"
+explained the mate. "When we sail from Gibraltar
+the Union Jack will be replaced by the French tri-color
+to show that we are then on the way to a French port.
+The emblem on the fore-mast will be changed many
+times before we return to New York. But there,"
+turning and pointing to the rear, "in its place at the
+stern is the German standard, the flag of our fatherland.
+There it will remain throughout the cruise. Above us,
+too, on the mast nearest the stern, the white pennant
+bearing the letters H. A. P. A. G., the insignia of the
+company that owns the Moltke, will constantly fly."</p>
+
+<p>The evening we sailed from Funchal each lady found
+beside her plate at the dinner table a bunch of violets,
+a memento from the flower gardens of Madeira; and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[Pg 26]</a></span>
+on St. Valentine's Day each found there a package
+containing a pretty fan with the compliments of the
+Captain. At this dinner on the fourteenth of February
+much merriment prevailed during the dessert course,
+when favors containing caps and bonnets were distributed.
+Formality was dropped for the time. Each
+diner donned his headgear and the comical appearance
+of the wearers drew forth many pleasantries and much
+laughter.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus032.jpg" width="600" height="350" alt="THE ILLUSTRATIONS REPRESENT A SOMBER MOUNTAIN." title="THE ILLUSTRATIONS REPRESENT A SOMBER MOUNTAIN." />
+<span class="caption">THE ILLUSTRATIONS REPRESENT A SOMBER MOUNTAIN.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The Captain, with a huge paper sun-bonnet on his
+head, rose to make a few remarks.</p>
+
+<p>"Silence! listen to what our old mother has to say!"
+cried a humorist.</p>
+
+<p>Amid laughter the captain began, but the laughter
+quickly ceased and his words were listened to with
+attention.</p>
+
+<p>"Fellow voyagers," said he in conclusion, "you will
+find on the bulletin board to-night some information and
+advice relative to your trip to Granada. For the past
+ten days you have been under my charge and I have
+looked after your welfare, but to-morrow you leave the
+vessel for two days. I wish you a pleasant excursion
+and a safe return to shelter under the care of your 'Old
+Mother.'"</p>
+
+<p>After the applause had subsided and a response had
+been made by one of the passengers, the orchestra
+played as a finale Liebe's "Auf Wiedersehen."</p>
+
+<p>Then we, after securing pencil and paper, hastened to
+join the crowd around the bulletin board to make notes
+of the directions for the trip into Spain. The notice
+read as follows:<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[Pg 27]</a></span></p>
+
+<blockquote><p>"The Moltke will arrive at Gibraltar to-morrow,
+February fifteenth, before daylight. Breakfast will
+be served at an early hour and tenders will be alongside
+the steamer at seven o'clock to take the
+tourists to the dock. There guides will be in waiting
+and three hours will be spent in Gibraltar.</p>
+
+<p>"At ten o'clock the tourists will be conveyed in
+the steam ferry across the bay to the railroad station
+at Algeciras, from which place the train will start
+for Granada. During the ferry passage a box containing
+luncheon to be eaten on the train will be
+given to each person.</p>
+
+<p>"Dress warmly or take heavy wraps, as it is sometimes
+cold at Granada at this season of the year.</p>
+
+<p>"Call at the office at the news-stand on main
+deck for railroad tickets and hotel assignments.</p>
+
+<p>"The excursion party returning will leave
+Granada at four o'clock Monday afternoon and
+arrive at the steamer about midnight. The
+Moltke will then sail for Algiers."</p></blockquote>
+
+<p>"Let us go to the office at once. The giving out of
+tickets may require considerable time," said my room-mate.</p>
+
+<p>Others were of the same opinion, it seemed, for many
+were ahead of us, but there was no delay, each applicant
+receiving promptly with his railroad ticket a card bearing
+the name of the hotel in Granada to which he was
+assigned. The managers of the tour, having arranged
+in advance for the required number of rooms at the
+principal hotels, were prepared to make the allotment
+before leaving the vessel, so avoiding confusion and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[Pg 28]</a></span>
+delay on our arrival at our destination, and securing
+for us prompt attention at the hotels.</p>
+
+<p>Some of our friends who had already received their
+envelopes rejoiced to see on their cards "Hotel Washington
+Irving," a hotel which they knew from description
+to be beautifully situated on the heights near the
+Alhambra.</p>
+
+<p>"Hotel Victoria," I read on mine. I was disappointed
+at first, but on the following day I found that
+the central location of the "Victoria" gave opportunities
+to see much of the life of the city that might have
+been missed had the assignment been to the hotel in
+the suburbs.</p>
+
+<p>When we awoke the next morning the Moltke was
+lying quietly at anchor. We hastily dressed and
+ascended to the deck.</p>
+
+<p>Any one who has seen pictures of the huge rock that
+guards the entrance to the Mediterranean will recognize
+Gibraltar at sight if he approaches the rock from the
+right point of view. The illustrations, however, represent
+a somber mountain. The picture we saw showed
+white houses, red roofs, green trees, patches of lawn,
+groups of shrubbery, and plots of flowers, all contrasting
+with gray rocks; these with blue sky overhead, and
+white sails in the foreground gave life and color to the
+scene.</p>
+
+<p>As we gazed for some time from the vessel's deck at
+the strong fortress which has been held securely in the
+grasp of Great Britain for two hundred years, we
+thought of the many unsuccessful attempts that have
+been made during those two centuries to wrest it from
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[Pg 30]</a></span>British control; most noted of all, the long siege by the
+French and Spanish forces that continued for four years
+when Napoleon was supreme in France. What might
+have been the result, if England's grasp on the rock
+had been broken by Napoleon; or what the outcome,
+if Napoleon's fleet had been victorious in the conflict
+on the near-by Trafalgar Bay!</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus036.jpg" width="300" height="437" alt="THE ROCK HAD A PEACEFUL LOOK." title="THE ROCK HAD A PEACEFUL LOOK." />
+<span class="caption">THE ROCK HAD A PEACEFUL LOOK.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The rock had a peaceful look, but we knew that the
+cactus plants, which grew rank on the slope of the
+mountain, concealed powerful batteries, and that on the
+summit of the rock were mounted cannons of the largest
+calibre, which, if required, could hurl projectiles to the
+far side of the strait, a distance of twelve miles.</p>
+
+<p>On one of the highest points of the rock stands the
+Signal Tower. To this tower the officers of the Moltke
+had signaled the news of our arrival when the steamer
+entered the harbor, and before we had stirred from our
+berths, that information had been flashed over the cable
+to London and New York. On the following morning
+our friends at home read in the shipping news of their
+daily paper, the following item:</p>
+
+<p>"Arrived out; Feb. 15, Gibraltar, Moltke, from New
+York."</p>
+
+<p>As we started ashore on the lighters at the early hour
+appointed, we realized that we should have to take in a
+great deal in a very little while. We entered the city
+of Gibraltar by a tunnel-like entrance through walls of
+great thickness. The gateway was closely guarded by
+sentinels, who demanded the passes with which we had
+been furnished and who told us that these would be
+good only until sunset, for at the firing of the evening<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[Pg 31]</a></span>
+gun each day the gates are closed and the passes then are
+useless.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 280px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus038.jpg" width="280" height="369" alt="WE DESCENDED A LONG LADDER OF FIFTY STEPS." title="WE DESCENDED A LONG LADDER OF FIFTY STEPS." />
+<span class="caption">WE DESCENDED A LONG LADDER OF FIFTY STEPS.</span>
+</div><p>
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_32" id="Page_32">[Pg 32]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The markets near the gates, where many kinds of
+fruits, vegetables, and fish, unlike those seen in our
+home markets, were offered for sale, first attracted our
+attention. Here customers carrying oddly shaped
+baskets were bargaining with Moorish fishermen,
+Jewish peddlers, and Spanish marketmen. Each dealer,
+with gesticulations and loud voice, appeared to be
+asserting the superiority of his own wares. There was a
+confusion of tongues. Only the pigs tied to stakes
+squealed, and the chickens in wicker crates crowed,
+in strains familiar to our ears. The streets through
+which we proceeded were clean but narrow. The sidewalks
+were only wide enough for two people to walk
+side by side. The buildings were constructed of gray
+limestone similar to that of which the great Rock is
+composed.</p>
+
+<p>The presence of an army in this stronghold was indicated
+by the large number of soldiers we met. An
+officer whom we questioned kindly told us that the
+garrison consisted of about six thousand men, and that
+provisions sufficient to feed that number for five years
+in case of siege were at all times kept in storage. He
+advised us to visit the "Lower Galleries" of the fortifications
+on the heights and obtain the view from that
+point, and then to attend the afternoon band concert
+in the park. But our limited stay did not permit us to
+follow his suggestions.</p>
+
+<p>"In some respects," said the Major, "Gibraltar is
+rather a dull post for the officers stationed here; but
+we have a large library, billiard and club rooms, courts
+for tennis, and ground for polo. We have also many<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_34" id="Page_34">[Pg 34]</a></span>
+dances and riding parties, and occasionally attend the
+Spanish bull fights which take place in the large bull
+ring across the bay at Algeciras."</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus040.jpg" width="600" height="338" alt="WALLS OF GREAT THICKNESS AND A TUNNEL-LIKE ENTRANCE." title="WALLS OF GREAT THICKNESS AND A TUNNEL-LIKE ENTRANCE." />
+<span class="caption">WALLS OF GREAT THICKNESS AND A TUNNEL-LIKE ENTRANCE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The great variety of uniforms worn by the soldiers of
+England was particularly noticeable. We saw squads
+in khaki uniforms carrying quarters of beef toward the
+barrack buildings on the hill; a detachment in Scotch
+kilts marching to
+relieve the guards
+on sentinel duty
+at the neutral
+ground; many
+smart looking
+corporals and sergeants
+in short
+red jackets and
+little red caps
+placed jauntily on
+the sides of their
+heads, carrying
+short canes; an
+elderly looking
+officer in spotless
+white flannel, to
+whom the military
+salute was
+given by all soldiers who passed him; numbers of
+officers in red coats and white duck trousers; and a
+group of troopers in undress uniform of coarse white or
+grey, who had been grooming the horses in the stables.</p>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 300px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus041.jpg" width="300" height="343" alt="THERE IS A LITTLE MILK-MAID
+SERVING MILK." title="THERE IS A LITTLE MILK-MAID
+SERVING MILK." />
+<span class="caption">THERE IS A LITTLE MILK-MAID
+SERVING MILK.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Other things of interest that the camera of our eyes<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_35" id="Page_35">[Pg 35]</a></span>
+snapped as we hurried along, were yellow-slippered,
+bare-legged, swarthy Arabs gliding quietly by; a neat
+grey-gowned nurse taking two pretty English children
+to early service; Spaniards in long black cloaks and
+felt hats drawn down, who looked exactly like the
+conspirators we see in a play; many sailors in the garb
+of various nations, who appeared to be enjoying a holiday
+ashore; Hebrew residents in peculiar looking coarse
+costumes; well dressed English people with prayer
+books on their way to church; Moors from Tangiers in
+snow-white turbans, and black-haired Spanish señoritas
+with large pompadours, high combs, and mantillas
+draped gracefully over their heads. These, with many
+others, met our sight; but, among all the crowd we
+encountered, we were not approached by a beggar, the
+soliciting of alms being forbidden by the military
+authorities.</p>
+
+<p>We paused to glance at the little Trafalgar cemetery,
+but did not enter.</p>
+
+<p>"Here," said the English guide, "sleep many of the
+British heroes who with our gallant Nelson gave their
+lives to gain the famous naval victory of the Bay of
+Trafalgar, in which the French and Spanish fleets were
+destroyed. Bonaparte boasted that the combined
+navies of the two countries would crush our British
+fleet, and then his army would cross the channel and
+camp in London; but our brave Admiral upset Napoleon's
+plans."</p>
+
+<p>Beyond the cemetery we crossed the Alameda or
+Park Gardens, the pleasure ground of the people, where
+the military band plays in the afternoon and evening.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_36" id="Page_36">[Pg 36]</a></span>
+There we saw a luxuriant growth of subtropical vegetation,
+orange trees with leaves of dark, glossy green,
+date palms with bunches of unripe dates, palms with
+broad leaves, spreading pepper trees, and great ash
+trees whose roots protruded above the ground for unwary
+tourists to stumble over. The geraniums and heliotropes
+were of gigantic size, and many other flowering
+plants were unusually large.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus043.jpg" width="500" height="339" alt="EACH COMPARTMENT SEATS EIGHT." title="EACH COMPARTMENT SEATS EIGHT." />
+<span class="caption">EACH COMPARTMENT SEATS EIGHT.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Our guide persuaded us to enter a museum, as he
+called it; but this proved to be a regular old curiosity
+shop containing a large assortment of oddities and
+souvenirs with which the owner was willing to part for
+a sufficient compensation.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_37" id="Page_37">[Pg 37]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>"There is a little milkmaid serving milk. I'll take a
+snap-shot of her while she is at work," said one of our
+party with a camera as we drew near a young girl who
+was drawing milk directly from a brown-haired goat into
+a customer's pitcher.</p>
+
+<p>While returning to the wharf we met several herds of
+the brown-haired goats driven by milkmen through the
+streets; and, assembled near the dock around a group
+of English Salvation Army lads and lasses who were
+singing familiar hymns accompanied by cornet and
+drum, we saw a motley crowd of men, many of whom
+from their diverse and peculiar costumes were evidently
+sailors from various ports of the world. Then, having
+completed our hurried tramp through the city in the
+time allotted for that purpose, we descended the steps
+at the pier to the ferry-boat that was to carry us a few
+miles across the bay to the town of Algeciras.</p>
+
+<p>After thirty minutes on the ferry we stepped ashore
+on Spanish soil. The first special train had departed
+and the second was being made up. During the short
+interval of waiting, the kodak carriers were busily
+engaged securing their first Spanish views.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_38" id="Page_38">[Pg 38]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_IV" id="CHAPTER_IV"></a>CHAPTER IV.</h2>
+
+<p class="center">GRANADA AND THE ALHAMBRA.</p>
+
+
+<p>The small cars on the railroad which carried us
+from Algeciras to Granada were divided into
+compartments with doors opening from the sides.
+Each compartment comfortably seated eight persons,
+four facing the front and four the rear. This arrangement
+of seating allows general conversation among the
+group, and, if the occupants are congenial, promotes
+sociability.</p>
+
+<p>A traveler speeding through the United States in a
+"Chicago Limited," at the rate of sixty miles an hour,
+can merely catch glimpses of objects on the way and
+receive only blurred and indistinct impressions of the
+scenery; but when traveling in the "Spanish Express,"
+at the more moderate speed of twenty-five miles an hour,
+he can enjoy clear and vivid pictures of the unfolding
+panorama. Let me try to describe some of these
+pictures just as they appeared to us during the trip.</p>
+
+<p>Looking back after leaving Algeciras, we saw the huge
+rock of Gibraltar, almost an island, connected with the
+main land by a narrow, flat, sandy isthmus. Across
+the "neutral ground," as the strip between the English
+and Spanish possessions is called, a line of sentry boxes
+extended, and red-coated British sentinels paced back
+and forth. Parallel to the British line there was another<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_40" id="Page_40">[Pg 40]</a></span>
+line of sentry boxes, where the soldiers of Alfonzo were
+on guard to prevent the smuggling of tobacco and other
+forbidden wares into Spain.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus046.jpg" width="500" height="289" alt="TWELVE WEATHER BEATEN MARBLE LIONS UPHOLD AN ALABASTER BASIN." title="TWELVE WEATHER BEATEN MARBLE LIONS UPHOLD AN ALABASTER BASIN." />
+<span class="caption">TWELVE WEATHER BEATEN MARBLE LIONS UPHOLD AN ALABASTER BASIN.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>"See those miserable little white plastered huts with
+roofs made of straw," said one of our party. "I did not
+know that the people were so poor."</p>
+
+<p>This picture of poverty was our first impression of
+Spain. For some distance the train had been running
+through a region apparently unfertile, where fences of
+sharp spined cacti enclosed small fields. The people
+were shabbily dressed, the houses straw-thatched and
+dilapidated, and the little patches of land poorly cultivated.
+It seemed that Sunday was a common wash-day;
+for at almost every cottage the family wash was
+hanging in the sun on trees, shrubs, or cacti.</p>
+
+<p>Within an hour, however, we were passing through a
+section of the country entirely different in aspect, where
+the cork industry gives employment to many people.
+For a distance of eight or ten miles groves of cork-oak
+trees were in sight. At the station were bulky piles of
+cork bark, cars stacked with cork were on the sidings,
+and great carts drawn by oxen were on the roads bringing
+in still more of this valuable commodity.</p>
+
+<p>"Millions of bottles are made in our city," said a New
+Jersey girl, "and there is enough cork here in sight to
+stopper them all."</p>
+
+<p>Beyond this, the land was more fertile and under
+better cultivation. Well built stone houses replaced
+the huts; glossy-leaved orange trees and pink-blossomed
+almond trees dotted the fields or filled the orchards.
+Instead of fences, the boundaries of fields and farms<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_41" id="Page_41">[Pg 41]</a></span>
+were marked at the corners by white stones projecting
+above the ground. Farther along, yellow-green olive
+plantations, magnificent in size and beautiful in color,
+filling the valleys and hillsides as far as the eye could see
+with orderly, far-reaching lines of trees, made so impressive
+a sight that it drew forth many expressions of
+admiration.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus048.jpg" width="500" height="366" alt="SPANISH CHILDREN CAME TO THE STATION." title="SPANISH CHILDREN CAME TO THE STATION." />
+<span class="caption">SPANISH CHILDREN CAME TO THE STATION.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Women, as gatekeepers, waved white flags to signal
+that the crossings were clear. Gangs of men, often
+thirty in a gang, were in the fields cultivating leeks
+or onions with crude, heavy-looking, short-handled hoes.
+Teams of long-horned oxen attached to old-fashioned
+plows, at times eight or ten teams in one field, were<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_42" id="Page_42">[Pg 42]</a></span>
+turning up the soil. Occasionally ox-teams drawing
+heavily laden carts or wagons were seen along the smooth
+white roads; but more frequently appeared trains of
+slowly moving donkeys, five or six in a line, with gay
+trappings and bells and panniers piled high with produce,
+driven by red-sashed muleteers.</p>
+
+<p>At stations where the train stopped five or ten minutes,
+the doors at the sides of the compartments were opened
+and the passengers descended and walked up and down
+the platform. Spanish women, carrying jugs, cried
+"Lacte," "Limonada," "Narrandjada," and "Acqua,"
+and other peddlers with baskets offered "bollos,"
+"tortitas," and "narranges." After some difficulties in
+obtaining information as to "how much," the shillings
+and pence, pesetas and centimes of the tourists were
+exchanged for the milk, lemonade, orangeade, and
+water, the cakes, rolls, and oranges of the dealers.</p>
+
+<p>One of the ladies, after making a purchase, said, "I
+asked that woman with the black-eyed baby the price
+of a half dozen oranges. She said, 'Fifty centimes.'
+Then I offered her an English six-pence, and she gave
+me six oranges and a penny in change."</p>
+
+<p>Spanish boys scrambled for a roll or boiled eggs thrown
+to them, and men, women, and children extended their
+hands for money or remnants of our luncheon. One
+boy who had secured an apple and an egg in a scramble
+laughed with happiness over his success. These people
+did not appear to be destitute; for children, as well as
+adults, were comfortably clothed, and wore neat looking
+shoes and stockings. As the day, however, was Sunday,
+probably they were in holiday attire.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_43" id="Page_43">[Pg 43]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 200px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus050.jpg" width="200" height="338" alt="&quot;MAY WE KODAK YOU?&quot;
+&quot;THEY ALL DO,&quot; HE REPLIED." title="&quot;MAY WE KODAK YOU?&quot;
+&quot;THEY ALL DO,&quot; HE REPLIED." />
+<span class="caption">&quot;MAY WE KODAK YOU?&quot;
+&quot;THEY ALL DO,&quot; HE REPLIED.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The red-capped station masters were important
+personages. At the principal stations they directed
+the starting of the trains with the greatest care and
+deliberation. In our own country the conductor's hand
+touches the signal-cord and the train moves. At
+Ronda, a bell in the station rang, then a red-capped
+employee trotted along the
+length of the train ringing a
+hand dinner bell. A minute
+later he repeated his trip with
+warning bell, then the whistle
+tooted, but it was not until
+the red-cap was sure that
+every passenger was aboard
+that the whistle issued a second
+toot and the wheels began to
+revolve. These extraordinary
+precautions, although affording
+amusement for the
+tourists, may have been
+taken under special orders of
+the railroad officials in order
+to avoid accidents and
+insure our safety. At any
+rate, we know that the railroad
+officials and their Spanish employees did give us
+special attention and treat us with kindness and
+courtesy.</p>
+
+<p>Through many deep cuts and tunnels, over romantic
+gorges of dark depth, and along cliffs whose heights
+we could not see, the train climbed and crossed a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_44" id="Page_44">[Pg 44]</a></span>
+mountain range. As the car emerged from tunnel or
+cut, changing scenes of wild and savage landscape appeared
+near by, and charming glimpses of distant valleys
+far below. The torrents and waterfalls of the river
+Gaudiara added to the weird beauty of the scene.
+A stanza in Southey's poem, "The Cataract of Lodore,"
+fittingly describes the wildness of the river that we
+crossed and re-crossed so often:</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i8">"Here it comes sparkling<br /></span>
+<span class="i6">And there it lies darkling:<br /></span>
+<span class="i6">Now smoking and frothing<br /></span>
+<span class="i8">The cataract strong<br /></span>
+<span class="i8">Then plunges along,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">And dashing and flashing and splashing and clashing:<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">And so never ending but ever descending,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Sound and motions forever are blending."<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>A famous canyon, deep and narrow, with rushing,
+foaming stream, seemed like a crevice sliced down by a
+gigantic blade. Towns and villages far away amid
+green fields and gray olive orchards, and buildings
+of white and cream, luminous in the sunlight, with
+backgrounds of dark and rugged mountains, produced
+a succession of picturesque views. Among the hills
+were seen young Davids, staff in hand, guarding flocks
+of grazing sheep, ancient swineherds lazily watching
+droves of swine feeding on the roots, and goatherds
+following their nimble-footed brown herds as they
+picked their way among the rocks.</p>
+
+<p>As we approached our destination, the valleys showed
+signs of great prosperity. The fields were highly cultivated;
+the farms were irrigated by ditches of flowing<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_46" id="Page_46">[Pg 46]</a></span>
+water; the orchards were well trimmed; the buildings
+larger; and the red-sashed laborers more sprucely
+attired.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus052.jpg" width="300" height="412" alt="MARVELOUSLY BEAUTIFUL IN MOORISH SPLENDOUR." title="MARVELOUSLY BEAUTIFUL IN MOORISH SPLENDOUR." />
+<span class="caption">MARVELOUSLY BEAUTIFUL IN MOORISH SPLENDOUR.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>At Pinos we saw the stone bridge where, in 1492,
+Columbus, on his way to France, disheartened by his
+failure to interest King Ferdinand in his plans, was over-taken
+by Queen Isabella's messenger and summoned
+back to court to receive his commission.</p>
+
+<p>As twilight was settling down we arrived on schedule
+time at the white stone station in Granada where carriages
+stood in waiting to convey us to the hotels. The
+Spanish drivers strove to surpass each other in speed.
+Our coachman lashed his horses till they ran like a run-away
+team. Regardless of anyone in the streets, grazing
+wagons by the way, overtaking and passing carriages
+ahead, he gave us the wildest ride we had ever taken.
+This chariot race to the hotel, a distance of over a mile,
+happily ended without accident or collision.</p>
+
+<p>"Well, I'm thankful that ride is over without an
+upset," exclaimed with a sigh of relief a nervous lady,
+who had tried ineffectually to restrain the driver's
+zeal by the use of English words which he did not understand.</p>
+
+<p>The old Cathedral, covering ground equal to a block
+in length and half a block in width, always attracts
+many visitors. Massive pillars support the roof and
+marble tiles cover the floor. The light, falling softly
+through stained glass windows, discloses valuable
+paintings on the walls, fine statuary in the aisles, and
+decorations of white and gold.</p>
+
+<p>"Is this building very old?" some one inquired.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_47" id="Page_47">[Pg 47]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>"Old!" replied the guide with scorn in his voice,
+"this Cathedral was here when Columbus discovered
+your country." The guide, however, exaggerated
+somewhat. It was built just about the time America
+was discovered.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 476px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus054.jpg" width="476" height="347" alt="HERE WASHINGTON IRVING LIVED FOR A TIME." title="HERE WASHINGTON IRVING LIVED FOR A TIME." />
+<span class="caption">HERE WASHINGTON IRVING LIVED FOR A TIME.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>In the Royal Chapel of the Cathedral, upon an
+alabaster mausoleum decorated with fine carving, lie
+the effigies of Ferdinand and Isabella. The soft,
+creamy alabaster gives them the appearance of sleeping.
+An inscription on the tomb reads as follows:</p>
+
+<blockquote><p>This chapel was founded by most Catholic Don Fernando
+and Dona Isable, King and Queen of Spain, of Naples, of Sicily,
+of Jerusalem, who conquered this kingdom and brought it back<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_48" id="Page_48">[Pg 48]</a></span>
+to our Faith; who acquired the Canary Isles and the Indies;
+who crushed heresy, and expelled the Moors and Jews from these
+realms.</p>
+
+<p>
+Queen Dona Isable died Nov. 26, 1504.<br />
+King Don Fernando died Jan. 23, 1516.<br />
+</p>
+</blockquote>
+
+<p>On the altar of the chapel is a very interesting bas-relief
+representing the surrender of the city of Granada.
+In the sacristy we were shown the carefully guarded
+holy relics; the richly embroidered vestments used on
+ceremonial occasions, the sword of Ferdinand; the
+sceptre, crown, and mirror of Isabella; and the casket
+which contained the jewels that the Queen offered in
+pledge to secure funds for Columbus.</p>
+
+<p>"Most precious of all the relics," said the sacristan,
+"is the handkerchief with which the blessed Santa
+Veronica wiped the sweat from the Savior's brow on
+the road to Calvary. This bears the impression of the
+Savior's face."</p>
+
+<p>The greatest point of interest in Granada, perhaps in
+all Spain, is, of course, the Alhambra. This is the name
+given to a collection of buildings located on an elevation
+that overlooks the city. These palaces on the heights
+were for many centuries the dwelling places of the
+Moorish kings, surrounded by their nobles, retainers,
+and guardsmen. They were also the repositories in
+which were stored the immense treasure accumulated
+from the forays of the Moors upon the Christians of
+northern Spain, and from the sacking of Christian cities.
+The palaces of the rulers and the treasure within were
+protected by great citadels and by stout walls which
+encircled the heights.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_49" id="Page_49">[Pg 49]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus056.jpg" width="300" height="415" alt="DECORATED WITH ARABESQUES AND STORIED WITH INSCRIPTIONS." title="DECORATED WITH ARABESQUES AND STORIED WITH INSCRIPTIONS." />
+<span class="caption">DECORATED WITH ARABESQUES AND STORIED WITH INSCRIPTIONS.</span>
+</div><p>
+
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_50" id="Page_50">[Pg 50]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>In the latter part of the fifteenth century, after a long
+struggle, the Moorish power was overthrown by King
+Ferdinand, and since then Granada has been a Spanish
+city. Columbus was present at the court of the Spanish
+sovereign when the capitulation of Granada occurred
+in April, 1492, and within two weeks after the surrender
+of the city received his commission to sail in search of a
+new world.</p>
+
+<p>Washington Irving's description of the entrance of the
+conquering Spaniards into the Alhambra after the
+capture of the city, might, with the change of a word or
+two, still portray the visit of a party of modern tourists.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus057.jpg" width="600" height="257" alt="THE GENERALIFE OVERLOOKS THE ALHAMBRA." title="THE GENERALIFE OVERLOOKS THE ALHAMBRA." />
+<span class="caption">THE GENERALIFE OVERLOOKS THE ALHAMBRA.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>"The halls lately occupied by turbaned infidels,"
+he writes, "now rustled with stately dames and Christian
+courtiers, who wandered with eager curiosity over
+this far-famed palace, admiring its verdant courts and
+gushing fountains, its halls decorated with elegant
+arabesques, and storied with inscriptions, and the
+splendor of its gilded and brilliantly painted ceilings."<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_51" id="Page_51">[Pg 51]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus058.jpg" width="300" height="407" alt="PROTECTED BY CITADELS AND WALLS." title="PROTECTED BY CITADELS AND WALLS." />
+<span class="caption">PROTECTED BY CITADELS AND WALLS.</span>
+</div><p>
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_52" id="Page_52">[Pg 52]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Although the coloring is faded, and in many places the
+intricate ornamentation is crumbling or broken, sufficient
+remains to show how marvelously beautiful it must
+have been in Moorish splendor. And beautiful it still
+is, notwithstanding the ravages of time.</p>
+
+<p>While in the Court of Myrtles, some of the party
+examined the light, graceful arches and the stucco
+tapestry interwoven with flowers and leaves that adorn
+the galleries; others were more interested in the gold
+fish swimming in the transparent water of the long
+sunken tank in the center of the tiled court. In the
+richly ornamented Hall of the Ambassadors, the state
+reception room of the king, we waited while the guide,
+in answer to a request, interpreted some of the delicately
+carved inscriptions that fill every available space on the
+wall.</p>
+
+<p>"One of these mottoes," said the guide, "that is
+repeated over and over again on almost every wall of the
+palace, reads: 'There is no conqueror but Allah.'
+Other mottoes which are very common are: 'There is no
+God but Allah;' 'Mohammed is the envoy of Allah;'
+'Allah is great;' 'Allah never forgets;' and various
+quotations from the Koran."</p>
+
+<p>Twelve weatherbeaten marble lions in the center of
+the Court of Lions uphold a large alabaster basin in
+which were caught, in times gone by, the falling waters
+of the fountain above it. Many graceful pillars support
+the surrounding arcades of this court and the exquisite
+fret-work looks as if carved in ivory.</p>
+
+<p>A practical man in the party called attention to the
+beautiful wooden doors through which we entered the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_53" id="Page_53">[Pg 53]</a></span>
+Hall of the Abencerrages, and to the peculiar manner
+in which they were hung on pivots instead of hinges.
+On the rim of the marble basin in the center of this hall
+some red stains were seen.</p>
+
+<p>"Here," said our guide, "is where the heads of the
+Abencerrages were cut off.</p>
+
+<p>"But why was Aben's head cut off?" inquired a lady.</p>
+
+<p>This gave the guide the opportunity he desired.</p>
+
+<p>"A prominent member of the tribe or family of the
+Abencerrages, named Hamet," he replied, "fell in love
+with the Sultana, and she in return loved the handsome
+and gallant warrior. Secret meetings took place under
+a cypress tree in the garden of the Generalife until the
+Sultan, Boabdil, accidentally discovered their meetings.
+The enraged Boabdil, without revealing his knowledge
+of their actions, invited the guilty Hamet and every
+member of his tribe to attend a banquet. As each guest
+arrived at the palace he was brought into this hall.
+Here the guards seized him, forced his head over the
+edge of this basin, and the sharp simitar of the executioner
+showed no mercy. This was the king's revenge,
+and so the stains on the fountain."</p>
+
+<p>The Room of Two Sisters brought forth exclamations
+of praise. Walls covered with dainty traceries in plaster,
+like embroideries on a ground of lace work; dados
+brilliant in fantastic designs of red, green, and blue;
+ceilings dropping thousands of stalactites each differing
+from the others in beauty of form; and charming views
+from the boudoir windows of floral beds and fountains
+in the garden beyond,&mdash;all these combined to make
+this place a suitable residence for a Queen.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_54" id="Page_54">[Pg 54]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>In the Baths we saw where royalty had bathed in
+marble basins to the sound of music by players in the
+gallery overhead.</p>
+
+<p>"Here are the rooms which Washington Irving occupied
+in the Alhambra during his stay in Granada,"
+explained the guide.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus061.jpg" width="500" height="357" alt="THE SUMMER RESIDENCE OF THE MOORISH KINGS." title="THE SUMMER RESIDENCE OF THE MOORISH KINGS." />
+<span class="caption">THE SUMMER RESIDENCE OF THE MOORISH KINGS.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Some of us tried to recall Irving's graphic descriptions
+in the "Conquest of Granada" of the scenes around
+this city; of the struggles between the Christian knights
+under the banner of Ferdinand, and the Moorish cavaliers
+under the standard of Mahomet; of fields covered
+with silken canopies; of cavalcades of warriors in
+jeweled armor and nodding plumes; of hand-to-hand<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_56" id="Page_56">[Pg 56]</a></span>
+conflicts and daring exploits; of the siege and capture
+of the city and expulsion of the Moors from Spain.
+As we thought of the unfortunate Boabdil, the noble
+queen mother Ayxa, and the beautiful Zoraya, driven
+into exile, giving up their beloved palace, the home of
+their ancestors with all its wealth and beauty, to their
+hated enemies, and leaving the land which had been in
+possession of the Moors for eight centuries, we to some
+extent realized the sorrow that filled the hearts of the
+departing exiles as they looked back for the last time
+on the heights of Granada and wept.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus062.jpg" width="300" height="410" alt="CHARMING VIEWS FROM BOUDOIR WINDOWS." title="CHARMING VIEWS FROM BOUDOIR WINDOWS." />
+<span class="caption">CHARMING VIEWS FROM BOUDOIR WINDOWS.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Although the buildings of the Alhambra are partly
+in ruins, the view from the Old Watch Tower has not
+changed materially. Standing on the tiled roof to which
+we climbed by many well worn stone steps, we saw a
+magnificent panorama spread out before us. The city
+lay almost at our feet; beautiful valleys extended for
+many miles dotted with white villages; gray olive
+orchards appeared here and there; verdant hills rose
+in the distance; and, forty miles away, the snow-covered
+peaks of the Sierra Nevada pierced the sky.</p>
+
+<p>After leaving the tower, we drove to the Palace of the
+Generalife, which is situated on the mountain side
+considerably higher than the Alhambra. We approached
+this beautifully located residence, where Moorish kings
+came to spend the summer months, by a wide path
+bordered with tall cypress trees. In the Court of the
+Cypresses our Spanish guide pointed to a venerable tree
+and said: "That cypress is six hundred years old;
+under it the guilty lovers, the Queen and Hamet,
+had their meetings until discovered by King Boabdil."<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_57" id="Page_57">[Pg 57]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>In the gardens of the Generalife, we rambled amid
+oddly trimmed trees, climbing roses, immense rose
+bushes, fountains, and grottoes, and wished that our
+stay might be prolonged. The terraces of the garden
+have flights of marble steps leading from one level to
+another. One of the flights we descended had runlets
+of water flowing down on the top of the marble balustrades.
+Water, clear and sparkling, which is brought
+from a mountain stream above, is abundant everywhere
+in fountains and pools, and in streamlets along the pathways.</p>
+
+<p>Among the sights of the city the milk delivery was
+interesting to strangers. A number of long-haired
+brown goats having been driven to the door of a house,
+a pitcher was brought and the milk drawn fresh from one
+of the goats; or a cow was led along the street and the
+milk furnished directly from the cow in any quantity
+desired by the customer.</p>
+
+<p>Small donkeys with panniers were used instead of
+wagons for the transfer of almost every kind of material
+in the city and country. Often the burdens were so
+large that the donkey was almost lost from sight. We
+saw these patient little animals driven through the
+streets variously laden with sacks of charcoal, bundles
+of wood, baskets of vegetables, crates of oranges, bags
+of coal, cans of water, kegs of wine, or bearing hampers
+filled with building stone, bright tinware, or new-mown
+grass. Even the street cleaners shoveled into the
+panniers on the donkeys' backs the dirt and refuse that
+had been collected on the streets. Occasionally we saw
+men or women or children perched on the top of a load.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_58" id="Page_58">[Pg 58]</a></span>
+Two men were sometimes seen riding on one donkey,
+and once we observed three large men on one small
+donkey.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus065.jpg" width="500" height="330" alt="INTO THE PANNIERS ON THE DONKEY&#39;S BACK." title="INTO THE PANNIERS ON THE DONKEY&#39;S BACK." />
+<span class="caption">INTO THE PANNIERS ON THE DONKEY&#39;S BACK.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>As we drove along the streets to the station the residents
+at doors, windows, and sidewalks smilingly commented
+among themselves on our outlandish foreign
+costumes, evidently comparing our American styles
+with their own familiar dress. It was certainly as
+interesting to the Spanish women to observe the peculiarities
+of our costumes as it was for us to notice the
+mantillas and gay bodices which gave them a picturesque
+appearance in our eyes. We were being inspected
+as well as they; but the Spaniards are so polite
+that there was nothing unpleasant in their curiosity.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_59" id="Page_59">[Pg 59]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>It was after midnight when the steam launches carried
+us across the bay from Algeciras to our steamship.
+The reception given us at the Moltke, after our two
+days' absence, made us feel that we had indeed arrived
+home. Colored fires reddened the waters, clusters of
+electric lights illumined the sides of the vessel, the band
+was playing on deck, and the captain welcomed us at
+the head of the gangway. Then while the orchestra
+played selections, a full course midnight dinner was
+served to the hungry pilgrims.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_60" id="Page_60">[Pg 60]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_V" id="CHAPTER_V"></a>CHAPTER V.</h2>
+
+<p class="center">THE CITY OF ALGIERS.</p>
+
+
+<p>On the morning of Tuesday, February seventeenth,
+the Moltke was speeding over a calm sea toward
+the coast of Africa. The tourists, after the
+strenuous sight-seeing of the past two days, luxuriously
+rested. Some lazily lounged in steamer chairs with pillows
+under their heads and gay blankets over them;
+others exchanged experiences with friends while sauntering
+slowly around the deck. Some in groups surrounded
+the card tables, playing or watching the
+games; while others read books from the shelves of the
+library, or gathered the latest home news from the
+columns of the London Times, or the Paris edition of
+the New York Herald, copies of which had been taken
+on board at Gibraltar.</p>
+
+<p>During the afternoon, however, a north-east wind
+suddenly arose which stirred the blue waters of the
+Mediterranean until the short choppy waves gave to
+the vessel a new and peculiar roll, differing from any
+previously experienced by those on board. As a result,
+many of the passengers, not being able to adjust themselves
+to this unfamiliar change of motion, became
+suddenly pale, and prudently retired to the privacy of
+their staterooms. But by the time the evening dinner
+was served the wind had somewhat subsided, and the
+majority of the passengers gathered in the saloon for an<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_61" id="Page_61">[Pg 61]</a></span>
+entertainment in the form of a roll-call of states. This
+was presided over in a jolly manner by a prominent
+lawyer from Philadelphia. As he called the name of a
+state, some native of that state responded in a short
+informal address in which he praised his section of the
+country so highly that he made it appear to be a perfect
+El Dorado. There was but time to hear from seventeen
+states although representatives from almost every state
+in the Union and from Canada were present.</p>
+
+<p>When the sun rose on Wednesday morning our steamer
+was anchored within the breakwater a short distance
+from the docks in the harbor of Algiers. A pleasant
+sight greeted our eyes when we came on deck. We saw
+a little white boat gliding over the waves flying the
+American flag, then two white steam launches speeding
+through the harbor with the same emblem floating in the
+breeze, while, over to the left, we descried at anchor
+three white gun boats, and hanging at their sterns our
+country's flag.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 600px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus068.jpg" width="600" height="255" alt="LIKE GHOSTS WALKING THROUGH THE STREETS." title="" />
+<span class="caption">LIKE GHOSTS WALKING THROUGH THE STREETS.</span>
+</div><p>
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_62" id="Page_62">[Pg 62]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>"Three cheers for the Stars and Stripes," cried an
+enthusiast, and the hurrahs were given earnestly and
+vigorously.</p>
+
+<p>On the bulletin board we found the following notice
+posted:</p>
+
+<blockquote><p class="center">PROGRAM FOR ALGIERS.</p>
+
+<p>The Managers will furnish landing tickets to the tourists
+but all expenses while on shore in Algiers will be borne by each
+individual.</p>
+
+<p>Carriages will be waiting on the docks for those who desire
+to ride, at their own expense, and a guide will be assigned to go
+with every four carriages.</p>
+
+<p>Meals may be obtained by returning to the ship, and passengers
+are expected to return to the vessel at night.</p></blockquote>
+
+<p>"How shall we spend the day without a definite plan
+laid out for us?" said one of a group at the bulletin
+board.</p>
+
+<p>"Let us take carriages with a guide as interpreter,"
+suggested another, "and drive around the city during
+the morning, then buy our luncheon at a French restaurant,
+and spend the afternoon tramping around and
+visiting the shops."</p>
+
+<p>"That will suit me, especially the shopping part;
+I want to buy some souvenirs," replied a third.</p>
+
+<p>"And return hungry to the vessel in time for a good
+dinner in the evening," added a fourth.</p>
+
+<p>Descending the ship's ladder, we placed ourselves in
+the care of the bronzed Arab boatmen, whose little boats
+had for some time been circling around the steamer, and
+were rowed to the custom house pier. Not having
+luggage to be examined, we fearlessly passed the red-<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_63" id="Page_63">[Pg 63]</a></span>trousered
+custom officials in the building and crossed the
+busy docks to the carriages in waiting.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus070.jpg" width="500" height="425" alt="THE LITTLE MOSQUE IN GOUVERNMENT SQUARE." title="THE LITTLE MOSQUE IN GOUVERNMENT SQUARE." />
+<span class="caption">THE LITTLE MOSQUE IN GOUVERNMENT SQUARE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>At the docks many vessels were lying, and the wharves
+were filled with outgoing and incoming freight. Beyond
+the docks along the front of the city is a broad avenue,
+the Boulevard de la Republic, elevated forty or fifty
+feet above the wharves. This boulevard is supported
+on the sea side by solid white stone arcaded walls,
+and is reached by inclined roadways or by handsome
+stone stairways. On the land side it is lined with<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_64" id="Page_64">[Pg 64]</a></span>
+substantial white stone buildings of uniform height
+with an arcade in front.</p>
+
+<p>The population of the city of Algiers, about 100,000,
+is composed principally of Moors, Arabs, Negroes,
+and other African nationalities, but with a large number
+of French, and many Hebrews, some Spanish, English,
+and other Continental representatives, and a few Americans.
+On its streets we saw faces of different colors
+ranging from pure white, through all the tints of brown,
+to the deepest black.</p>
+
+<p>In the Place de Gouvernment, one of the centers of
+business and religious life of the city, we met turbaned
+Arabs, barefoot negroes, red-trousered soldiers, French
+civilians, American tourists, Hebrew traders, Kabyle
+mountaineers. In this motley crowd the native men
+and women especially attracted our attention. The
+Algerine men wore long white gowns fastened at the
+waist with a girdle; white cloaks, called bournous,
+around their shoulders; and white turbans of many
+folds on their heads. The richer classes were arrayed
+in spotless garments of fine material, stockings, and
+ornamented sandals; the laborers wore coarse gowns,
+and sandals made of rope; while the unclean bodies of
+importunate beggars and unfortunate cripples were but
+partially covered with filthy sacking and rags which
+hung upon them.</p>
+
+<p>The Mohammedan women, wearing long bloomers
+made exceedingly full, and white mantles resembling
+sheets draped over their heads and falling loosely around
+their bodies, looked like ghosts as they walked through
+the streets. The white bandages or veils wrapped<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_66" id="Page_66">[Pg 66]</a></span>
+around their heads concealed all the features except
+the eyes, which appeared black and piercing. The
+Arab men may be able to distinguish the age of these
+veiled females, but it was difficult for us to tell which
+were old women, and which young, except by the elasticity
+of their movements.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus072.jpg" width="500" height="290" alt="THE ALGERINE MEN WEAR LONG WHITE GOWNS." title="THE ALGERINE MEN WEAR LONG WHITE GOWNS." />
+<span class="caption">THE ALGERINE MEN WEAR LONG WHITE GOWNS.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Near the Place de Gouvernment is the imposing palace
+of the Governor where all official business is transacted.
+Adjoining the palace stands the handsome Roman
+Catholic Cathedral. A long flight of white marble
+steps leads up to the doors of the Cathedral and a
+spreading palm tree stands like a guard near the foot
+of the stairway. As we stood before the tomb of St.
+Geronimo in the interior of the Cathedral, we listened to
+the following tale told by our Catholic guide.</p>
+
+<p>"A young man by the name of Geronimo, who lived
+in Italy about three hundred and fifty years ago, was
+captured by the Moors, and because he would not renounce
+the Christian religion, was condemned by his
+captors to death by torture. They tied his feet and
+hands with cords and threw him alive into a mould of
+soft concrete which slowly hardened around him, and
+the stone thus formed was built into the wall of a fortress
+then in course of construction. Fifty years ago, when
+the fortress was being demolished, the block of stone was
+discovered with the skeleton enclosed therein. The
+bones were carefully removed and interred in this Chapel
+in the tomb you see before you. Into the vacant space
+within the block of concrete, after removal of the bones,
+liquid plaster of Paris was poured, as into a mould, and
+a perfect model of Geronimo's body was obtained and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_67" id="Page_67">[Pg 67]</a></span>
+placed in the Museum. It was in recognition of this
+act of heroism in refusing to renounce the Christian
+faith that the martyr was canonized and the name of
+Geronimo was added to the calendar of the saints of
+our Church."</p>
+
+<p>In confirmation of the guide's story, the plaster of
+Paris model of the dead martyr's body may be seen
+among the curiosities and antiquities in the National
+Museum, a short distance from the Cathedral. This
+model shows the features, the clothing, and the cords
+which tied his feet and hands.</p>
+
+<p>The main business part of the city is not only modern
+but model, having clean, well paved streets lined with
+substantial white stone four-story buildings with arcades
+or covered pavements in front of them. As very little
+smoke or soot rises from the city the white buildings
+have not become soiled and darkened but retain their
+freshness and purity of color.</p>
+
+<p>Many of the stores we visited were kept by Arabs who
+understood French but could speak only a few words
+of English. The prices named by these merchants
+were generally two or three times more than they expected
+customers to pay, and it was very amusing to
+watch the process of a sale. A price was named by the
+dealer; a bid was made by the customer; then figuring,
+explaining, and dickering went on in a mixture of
+languages and signs until finally, if the buyer's patience
+did not wear out, the deal closed with a compromise.
+When the purchaser departed happy with a bargain,
+the dealer also appeared well satisfied, and if the same
+buyer returned to the store after once making a purchase,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_68" id="Page_68">[Pg 68]</a></span>
+the Arab merchant would recognize and welcome him
+with most gracious smiles as if he were one of his warmest
+friends.</p>
+
+<p>In these shops there was offered for sale such a varied
+and attractive assortment of oriental wares, that by
+evening the tourists were laden with packages. Handsome
+silk rugs, embroidered silk waists, curiously carved
+Algerine weapons, brightly colored leather goods,
+articles of hammered brass or copper, silver filagree
+work, ornaments of silver and gold, trinkets of ivory,
+coral and pearl, fans, photographs, and picture postal
+cards purchased during the day, were stored away in
+staterooms as souvenirs of Algiers.</p>
+
+<p>At the market stands were fruits and vegetables in
+abundance. The dates offered were especially pleasing
+in appearance and quality. The bread dealers, we
+noticed, sold bread by weight, and added or cut off
+chunks and slices in order to give the exact weight
+wanted by customers.</p>
+
+<p>The beggars did not trouble us very much by their
+importunities, although they were to be seen everywhere
+in filth and rags. Street peddlers, however, were persistent
+in offering wares and trinkets for sale, and bright
+Arab boys, who had learned a few sentences of English
+ran after us offering their services as guides.</p>
+
+<p>The coffee shops which we saw while passing through
+the streets were as numerous in Algiers as beer saloons
+in an American city. As the Mohammedan religion
+forbids the use of alcoholic liquors, the Arab followers
+of Mahomet appeared to be satisfying their craving
+for stimulants by drinking strong black coffee and by<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_69" id="Page_69">[Pg 69]</a></span>
+drinking it often. In the cafés, which are open in
+front, allowing all that goes on inside to be visible from
+the street, and on the benches outside the shops, we
+saw the customers sitting crosslegged slowly imbibing
+this favorite beverage from tiny cups. It was plainly
+apparent that in this warm climate where there is no
+haste, numberless hours are dreamed away on the
+benches of these cafés.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus076.jpg" width="500" height="425" alt="ON FRIDAYS THE WOMEN VISIT THE CEMETERY." title="ON FRIDAYS THE WOMEN VISIT THE CEMETERY." />
+<span class="caption">ON FRIDAYS THE WOMEN VISIT THE CEMETERY.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>When we left the modern part of the city and ascended
+the avenues which lead up the hill toward the older<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_70" id="Page_70">[Pg 70]</a></span>
+portion we found the streets diminishing in width until
+they were only passageways from six to ten feet wide,
+bordered by high buildings with blank walls showing no
+windows below, but with projecting windows above
+which almost meet overhead. In some of these steep,
+narrow, crooked streets there are little shops about
+the size of a large closet in which the merchant, sitting
+crosslegged on bench or cushion, can reach his goods
+and wait on his customer without rising or interfering
+with the enjoyment of his pipe. As the narrow thoroughfares
+are not wide enough for carriages, we had to walk
+through them with a guide. We were not favorably
+impressed with the odors nor with the sight of the filth
+in the streets and were glad when the guide turned from
+the gloom and foulness of the ancient Moorish streets
+and led us again toward the bright and attractive avenues
+of the modern city.</p>
+
+<p>The electric street cars are divided into two compartments;
+the first class having thin cushions on the
+seats, and the second class having wooden seats without
+cushions. The natives save the extra penny of fare
+by crowding into the second class, thus giving to the
+first class passengers the advantage of always having
+enough room. In the second class, however, the
+tourists had a more favorable opportunity to study the
+people. Opposite us in one of the second class compartments
+which we entered sat two veiled women in their
+voluminous white bloomers and wrappings. We could
+see that one was old by the fact that she leaned upon a
+staff, and we decided that the other was young because
+she showed some curiosity. Sitting near us was a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_71" id="Page_71">[Pg 71]</a></span>
+little black haired Arab girl with a chunk of dry bread
+in her hand, at which she was gnawing greedily. In a
+corner seat a meek looking nun in black gown and wide
+spreading stiff bonnet was counting the beads of her
+rosary as quietly as if alone in her devotions.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus078.jpg" width="500" height="430"
+alt="ABLUTION AT THE FOUNTAIN BEFORE PRAYER IN THE MOSQUE."
+title="ABLUTION AT THE FOUNTAIN BEFORE PRAYER IN THE MOSQUE." />
+<span class="caption">ABLUTION AT THE FOUNTAIN BEFORE PRAYER IN THE
+MOSQUE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>"Look," said one, as we were leaving the car, "there
+is the 'Thomson and Houston' stamp on the motor."</p>
+
+<p>"Yes," responded another, "American products
+appear to be well represented in this French colony."<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_72" id="Page_72">[Pg 72]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>On the main business thoroughfare we had noticed
+warerooms where 'Singer' sewing machines are sold;
+at an agency of the 'Eastman Company' we had restocked
+our kodaks with films; and we could not
+avoid seeing on a large sign, in letters that could be read
+a block away, the words 'American Dentist.' Consequently
+when we passed the American Consulate it was
+with a feeling of pride that we saluted the National
+Emblem which was floating gracefully in the breeze.</p>
+
+<p>In the Rue de Marine we saw an old structure of
+large dimensions with a long row of plain white marble
+columns in front, which, from its appearance, might be
+mistaken for an old warehouse. We were told by a
+Moslem guard, who fortunately understood our inquiry
+and was able to answer our questions in English, that
+the building is the Mosque El Tebir, the Great Mosque,
+and that we might enter subject to certain regulations.</p>
+
+<p>"You must remove your shoes," said he, "or wear
+slippers over your shoes. You must also pay a small
+entrance fee."</p>
+
+<p>In the vestibule, the door-keepers of the Mosque
+selected slippers from an assortment of different sizes
+which they kept for visitors' use and tied these over our
+shoes with tapes. We were then permitted to enter and
+wander around the interior over the handsome Persian
+rugs which cover the stone floor.</p>
+
+<p>"The Moslems regard their Mosques as very sacred
+places consecrated to the worship of Allah, and they
+will not permit any profanation of their sanctuary,"
+cautioned one of our party, a Presbyterian minister,
+seeing that we were inclined to make fun of the slippers.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_74" id="Page_74">[Pg 74]</a></span>
+"The Moslems remove their shoes and enter the place of
+worship with reverence, and they expect us to behave
+in a respectful manner."</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus080.jpg" width="500" height="284" alt="THE CATHEDRAL ADJOINS THE PALACE OF THE GOVERNOR."
+title="THE CATHEDRAL ADJOINS THE PALACE OF THE GOVERNOR." />
+<span class="caption">THE CATHEDRAL ADJOINS THE PALACE OF THE GOVERNOR.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>"The removal of the shoes at the entrance to a place
+of worship," continued the minister in explanation,
+"is an immemorial Eastern custom based on the words:
+'And he said, Draw not nigh hither; put off thy shoes
+from off thy feet, for the place whereon thou standest
+is holy ground,' and also on the words: 'And the captain
+of the Lord's hosts said unto Joshua, Loose thy shoe
+from off thy foot; for the place whereon thou standest
+is holy. And Joshua did so.' We should remember
+that the Mohammedan faith is based on the Old Testament,
+though supplemented by the instructions of
+Mahomet."</p>
+
+<p>In this ancient Mosque, where the worship of Allah
+and the study of the Koran has continued for nine
+hundred years, we found a few barefoot worshipers,
+some kneeling muttering their prayers, while others
+squatted on the floor reading the Koran aloud. At
+one end of the interior we saw the niche which indicates
+the direction in which lies the Holy City of Mecca, and
+toward this, as is the custom in all Mohammedan
+mosques, the worshipers turn their faces while at
+prayer. There were no benches or chairs in the mosque,
+as the devotees assumed a crosslegged position on the
+thick rugs during the time of their reading, and stood or
+knelt while offering prayer.</p>
+
+<p>The Jardin d'Essai, or Botanical Garden, situated in
+the suburbs near the sea about two miles from the center
+of the city, is reached by an electric street car of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_75" id="Page_75">[Pg 75]</a></span>
+American make which for a three-cent fare carried us
+to the gates. In the garden the large and varied collection
+of tropical trees, plants, and vines, so different
+from those growing in our own temperate climate, greatly
+delighted us. An "Avenue of Palms" half a mile
+long was lined with palm trees of many varieties, some
+wide-spreading and curiously branching has broad
+leaves, and others, high-growing, has tufted tops swaying
+in the air fifty or sixty feet above our heads. A
+wider avenue of similar length was bordered with
+magnolia trees of immense growth which we then saw
+only in bud, but it was not difficult to see in imagination
+the magnificent picture that would be presented to the
+eye, when later on, these millions of buds overhead
+would be in full bloom. The "Bamboo Pathway"
+led through a dense growth of bamboos whose slender
+poles, bending under a slight breeze, kept up a continual
+creaking sound. Huge trees, whose wide-spreading
+branches were supported by scores of accessory trunks,
+so that each tree formed a grove of its own, we recognized
+as banyan trees. In one part of the garden, winding
+paths led through a tangled tropical growth so dense
+and wild that one felt as if in the midst of an African
+jungle where a tiger might spring forth or a boa constrictor
+drop down on one's head.</p>
+
+<p>On the heights to the east, in the favorite modern
+residential district, called Mustapha Superieur, many
+large white stone hotels and apartment houses were
+situated amid gardens of glossy-leaved orange and lemon
+trees. Palms, plane, and pepper trees lined the clean,
+wide avenues; green terraces beautified the hillside<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_76" id="Page_76">[Pg 76]</a></span>
+gardens; and villas were almost hidden from sight by the
+climbing roses and luxuriant vines with clusters of
+purple racemes.</p>
+
+<p>"Many of these villas," said the guide, "are owned by
+wealthy English and French families who spend the
+winters here. The mild climate and uniform temperature
+of our city makes this place a favorite winter resort
+not only for invalids, but for those who desire to get
+away from the damp fogs and harsh winds of more northern
+climates."</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus083.jpg" width="500" height="430" alt="THE ENTRANCE TO A NARROW STREET."
+title="THE ENTRANCE TO A NARROW STREET." />
+<span class="caption">THE ENTRANCE TO A NARROW STREET.</span>
+</div><p>
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_77" id="Page_77">[Pg 77]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>"Our city is noted for two views which we think are
+unsurpassed," he continued, as the driver reined in his
+team on a summit. "One is this which we now look
+down upon of city, harbor, sea, and villages near and
+distant along the shore. The other, you already have
+seen from the deck of the vessel, yet at sunset
+you will find that panorama of the city, villages, heights
+and mountains even more beautiful."</p>
+
+<p>While we were exploring the city, the officers on the
+steamer were engaged in directing the taking on of fresh
+supplies of coal, water, and provisions, which had been
+purchased at Algiers. During the two days the Moltke
+lay in the harbor fifteen hundred tons of coal were
+carried in baskets on the shoulders of Arabs from
+barges into the hold of the vessel, a slow method of
+delivering compared with the rush of the steam scoops
+in New York harbor where three thousand tons were
+dumped into the bunkers in a few hours' time. Fresh
+water also was brought from shore in tank barges and
+pumped from these into the tanks on the steamer.
+The quantity of fresh water required at this port cost the
+steamship company, so the engineer informed us, a
+sum equal to four hundred dollars. Also great quantities
+of fresh fruits and vegetables were received on
+board, one of the most welcome things thus added to our
+bountiful bill of fare being the tender green artichoke
+which in Algiers grows to perfection.</p>
+
+<p>On Thursday afternoon a reception was held on the
+Moltke and our band gave a most enjoyable musical
+program for the occasion. Hundreds of well dressed,
+courteous French ladies, gentlemen, and children, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_78" id="Page_78">[Pg 78]</a></span>
+some French officials in uniforms, came on board to visit
+the vessel which was thrown wide open for their examination.
+Some of the
+officers of the naval
+vessels also came to
+the reception and extended
+a cordial invitation
+to the tourists
+to visit the gunboats.
+This invitation was
+accepted by some who
+were willing to spare
+the time for that
+purpose.</p>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 200px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus085.jpg" width="200" height="409" alt="A STREET IN OLD ALGIERS."
+title="A STREET IN OLD ALGIERS." />
+<span class="caption">A STREET IN OLD ALGIERS.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>"Less than one
+hundred years ago
+Algiers was a country
+of pirates," said one
+of the officers to a
+group of tourists,
+"and Algerine corsairs
+flying the black
+flag infested the Mediterranean
+coast. Like
+birds of prey they
+pounced upon the
+merchant vessels of
+other nations, confiscating
+the cargoes,
+seizing seamen and passengers, and burning the ships.
+They cast thousands of captives into dungeons and de<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_79" id="Page_79">[Pg 79]</a></span>manded
+heavy ransoms for their release. They sent
+many thousands to the markets to be sold,&mdash;the men to
+be degraded to slavery, the women, praying for death,
+to be dragged away to harems of their purchasers.
+Among the captives held for ransom were many Americans.
+But you are familiar with all this ancient
+history."</p>
+
+<p>"No, we are not," replied one of the ladies; "I may
+have read it but if so, it has slipped from my mind.
+Why, we have gone about the city feeling as safe and
+secure from harm and insult as we did in our home
+cities."</p>
+
+<p>"And you were as safe in Algiers during the day time
+as you would be in Paris, London, or New York. I
+should advise you, though, to keep off the streets of this
+and all Oriental cities after nightfall. We may be
+proud to remember that the United States was one of
+the first countries to stop paying ransoms and to administer
+a salutary reproof. In June of the year 1815
+our Commodore Decatur sailed into this harbor and sent
+a message to the Dey of Algiers demanding the release
+of all Americans then held in captivity, threatening to
+bombard the city if the prisoners were not set free.
+The Dey after some demur yielded through fear of
+bombardment and liberated all the Americans; but sent
+a message to the Commodore requesting that a tribute
+in the shape of powder be given him in exchange for the
+captives. 'If the Dey wants powder, he must take
+the balls with it,' Decatur bravely replied. After that
+the merchant vessels flying the American flag were not
+molested. The great destruction of ships and the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_80" id="Page_80">[Pg 80]</a></span>
+capture of Europeans continued until France, highly
+exasperated, determined that it must be stopped, and
+the Moors punished. An expedition was sent to Algiers
+and the country was conquered in the year 1830, since
+then Algiers has been a French colonial possession."</p>
+
+<p>Just as the sun was dropping below the horizon filling
+the air with a golden light, the anchor was slowly raised.
+A number of the French people who had been visitors
+to the Molkte were in a steam launch near by waiting
+to see our departure.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus087.jpg" width="500" height="357" alt="LED THROUGH A TROPICAL, TANGLED GROWTH."
+title="LED THROUGH A TROPICAL, TANGLED GROWTH." />
+<span class="caption">LED THROUGH A TROPICAL, TANGLED GROWTH.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>"Adieu," "Adieu," "Bon voyage," were the parting
+salutations, as the French ladies waved handkerchiefs
+and the French men raised their hats.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_81" id="Page_81">[Pg 81]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>As the warships were passed, "Three cheers for the
+Red, White, and Blue" were given with a will amid
+waving hats, handkerchiefs, and small flags, and our
+greeting was answered by the lowering and raising of the
+Stars and Stripes on board the warships. Then our
+great ship steamed slowly out of the harbor, passing the
+the forts which at the extremities of the moles guarded
+the entrance, and the lighthouse whose strong, steady
+light was just beginning to shine.</p>
+
+<p>As we entered the open sea we looked back with
+regret at the scene of beauty behind us. Vessels flying
+flags of many nationalities lay at anchor in the
+harbor or at the piers. Above the handsome white
+stone docks on the sloping hillside rose the clean-looking
+white city. On the hill to the right far away in bold
+relief stood the Church of our Lady of Africa. To the
+left, as far as the eye could reach, along the shore of the
+bay beyond the city, were clusters of Moorish houses,
+white villages, and green plains, and on the heights
+above, white villas and hotels in the midst of green foliage.
+In the distance rose a range of high hills, and far beyond
+the gray peaks of the Atlas Mountains bounded the
+horizon.</p>
+
+<p>No picturing of that scene can show the beauty of the
+view there presented to our eyes. But he who has
+visited Algiers will never forget the soft harmonizing
+colors of blue sky, white and yellow buildings, green
+foliage, and gray background.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_82" id="Page_82">[Pg 82]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VI" id="CHAPTER_VI"></a>CHAPTER VI.</h2>
+
+<p class="center">THE ISLAND OF MALTA.</p>
+
+
+<p>Among the tourists were twenty-one Knights
+Templar. These Knights took a special interest
+in the history of the island of Malta and
+the romantic story of the Knights of St. John. For the
+benefit of those who desired the information, a lecture on
+Malta was delivered by a member of our party who was
+familiar with the subject.</p>
+
+<p>"Know something of the history of the island,"
+advised the lecturer, "and you will appreciate and enjoy
+what you see there more highly than you would without
+that knowledge. In the fortifications, the palaces, the
+churches, of this island you will find many memorials
+of the Knights of Malta, and it may add to your pleasure
+to hear something about the famous warrior-monks
+before visiting these places."</p>
+
+<p>Many of his hearers, taking the advice, made notes of
+the story as related by him.</p>
+
+<p>"About one thousand years ago," he said, "the Order
+of the Knights Hospitallers was organized at Jerusalem,
+by Italians. Its members took vows of fraternity,
+chastity, and poverty. The purpose of the Order was to
+erect hospices for the shelter of pilgrims who came to
+visit the Holy Sepulchre at Jerusalem, and hospitals
+in which to care for the pilgrims when sick. During
+many years of faithful service the work of the Hospitallers<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_84" id="Page_84">[Pg 84]</a></span>
+was supported by contributions from all Christendom;
+but when the oppression of the Turks became unendurable,
+the Knights took upon themselves vows to fight
+in defense of the Christian faith, and the religious
+brotherhood became a band of saintly warriors. This
+band during the time of the Crusades grew into a great
+military order known as the 'Knights of St. John.'
+In the battles of the Crusades, the Knights, fighting
+against the infidels for the possession of the Holy Land,
+became renowned for great personal strength, dauntless
+courage, and daring heroism.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus090.jpg" width="500" height="294" alt="THE HARBOR IS SURROUNDED BY OLD GRAY FORTRESSES."
+title="THE HARBOR IS SURROUNDED BY OLD GRAY FORTRESSES." />
+<span class="caption">THE HARBOR IS SURROUNDED BY OLD GRAY FORTRESSES.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>"After the failure of the Crusades, the Knights were
+expelled from Palestine by the victorious Saracens, and,
+twenty years later, were driven from the near-by island
+of Cyprus. Fleeing to the island of Rhodes, they there
+enjoyed two centuries of power and increasing prosperity,
+during which time the banner of the cross remained
+victorious over warring Turks, Greeks, and pirates.
+Then at the end of this period came the memorable
+siege of Rhodes. For six months the steel-clad cavaliers
+withstood the assaults of the Ottoman hosts, and their
+ponderous battle axes swept down the infidel assailers
+by scores. Personal strength, however, could not
+endure the continual strain. The besieged, utterly
+worn out, were compelled to capitulate and leave
+Rhodes; but as a compliment to their valor, they were
+permitted by the Sultan to depart in honor, taking
+with them all movable property and treasure.</p>
+
+<p>"In the year 1530, the Knights of St. John found a
+refuge on the island of Malta. They grew in numbers
+and importance, fortified the island, and resumed the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_85" id="Page_85">[Pg 85]</a></span>
+warfare against their hereditary foes. Success at sea
+and on land resulted in the capture of richly laden
+prizes, multitudes of captives, and booty of enormous
+value. The captives became slaves laboring on the
+fortifications or straining at the oars. The booty
+adorned the churches and enriched the people. But as
+power and wealth increased, the desire for spoils took
+possession of the hearts of the Knights and the original
+vows of humility, kindness, and charity were forgotten.
+They became proud and boastful seekers of plunder and
+believed themselves to be invincible. Their enemies
+called them pirates.</p>
+
+<p>"In 1565 their numbers were greatly reduced during
+a noted siege by the Sultan of Turkey. Then fortune
+smiled or frowned on them in varying moods for many
+years, whose story is filled with romance and interest.
+In 1798 the island of Malta, after having been for nearly
+three centuries in the possession of the Knights of St.
+John, was captured by an invading French force, and
+two years later it became, by conquest, an English
+possession.</p>
+
+<p>"The fortifications have since then been strengthened
+and equipped with modern armaments, so that the island
+is now considered an impregnable stronghold. Here,
+as at Gibraltar, an army is stationed in the barracks,
+and great quantities of provisions are kept in store to
+supply the garrison in case of siege. The harbor of
+Valetta is deep and safe, and the narrow entrance is
+commanded by three strong fortresses. Here is the
+headquarters of the Mediterranean fleet of the British
+navy. Here, also, are great repair docks, a coaling<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_86" id="Page_86">[Pg 86]</a></span>
+station where huge stocks of coal are kept on hand, and
+warehouses filled with naval supplies.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus093.jpg" width="500" height="459" alt="MALTESE WOMEN WEAR PECULIAR BONNETS."
+title="MALTESE WOMEN WEAR PECULIAR BONNETS" />
+<span class="caption">MALTESE WOMEN WEAR PECULIAR BONNETS.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>"The island is densely populated, the number of people
+to the square mile being four times greater than in
+England. The city of Valetta, the capital of Malta,
+named after the Grand Master, Jean de La Vallette, by
+whom it was founded in the sixteenth century, stands
+high above the water on a commanding promontory."<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_87" id="Page_87">[Pg 87]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>"In this condensed account," said the lecturer in
+conclusion, "I have tried to give you a few of the main
+facts relating to the Knights and the island. Those
+of you who are interested in the romantic history may
+read it more fully when you have leisure after your
+return home."</p>
+
+<p>The Moltke cast anchor in the harbor of Valetta about
+six o'clock on the morning of the twenty-first of February.
+After we had partaken of an early breakfast,
+Maltese boatmen in scarlet caps and sashes, who stood
+up while handling their oars, rowed us to the shore.
+Their brightly painted boats had peculiar carved wooden
+posts erected at prow and stern and white awnings
+overhead. Walking up a sloping, zigzag pathway,
+constructed in a passage cut down through the high
+cliffs, we ascended from the busy docks to the heights
+above. At the summit a Maltese gentleman kindly
+directed us on our way to the Queen's Garden located
+directly above the landing place.</p>
+
+<p>From the parapets of this place a magnificent and
+interesting view of the harbor was obtained. Not far
+away, but hundreds of feet below us, the Moltke lay,
+encircled by the white awning-covered boats. Eight
+large battleships and a dozen cruisers and gunboats,
+all painted black, were lying peacefully at anchor.
+Steamships and sailing vessels at the docks were discharging
+cargoes, or were lying in the bay awaiting
+their turn to unload. Steam launches were busily
+flying from one point to another, and little ferry boats
+were constantly crossing and re-crossing the bay. The
+harbor was surrounded by high cliffs and old gray forti<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_88" id="Page_88">[Pg 88]</a></span>fications.
+At the entrance to the bay stood a tall
+lighthouse and a frowning fortress, the one for guidance,
+the other for protection. Through the entrance a ship
+with spread sails was entering, and beyond, the sunlight
+shone on the beautiful blue waters of the Mediterranean.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus095.jpg" width="500" height="350" alt="ATTRACTIVE STORES LINE THE &quot;STRADA REALE.&quot;"
+title="ATTRACTIVE STORES LINE THE &quot;STRADA REALE.&quot;" />
+<span class="caption">ATTRACTIVE STORES LINE THE &quot;STRADA REALE.&quot;</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The streets of Valetta were full of life that day. In
+reply to inquiries we were informed that on the following
+day, the Sunday preceding Lent, a festa, or carnival,
+lasting three days, would begin. During the festa,
+business would be suspended, and the people, disguised
+in masks and fanciful costumes, would engage in most
+ludicrous and extraordinary antics and play all manner
+of practical jokes on one another, showering the passers<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_89" id="Page_89">[Pg 89]</a></span>-by
+gently with confetti and flowers, or pelting them
+stingingly with dried peas and beans. Many children,
+impatient for the morrow to come, were already parading
+the streets arrayed in their costumes.</p>
+
+<p>Attractive stores line the "Strada Reale," the main
+shopping street. In these stores laces, gold and silver
+filagree work, jewelry, and embroidered muslins were
+the principal wares sought by the tourists. The ladies
+of our party were particularly anxious to secure pieces
+of Maltese lace, a special hand-made product noted for
+the excellence of its quality, the making of which gives
+employment to thousands of the inhabitants. In trading
+with the Maltese merchants, we soon found that the
+prices asked by the dealers were about twice the amount
+the customer was expected to pay, and that bargaining
+was as necessary in Malta as in Algiers.</p>
+
+<p>Almost all the costumes we saw on the streets were of
+the English style, but the varied uniforms of soldiers and
+the distinctive garments of Greeks, Turks, Spaniards,
+and Arabs added color and interest to the scene. The
+Maltese women wear immense bonnets, called faldettas.
+These peculiar bonnets have long skirts which reach
+to the waist and are totally black without color or
+ornament. As the majority of the inhabitants are
+Roman Catholics, we saw many priests and monks who
+wore black robes and very broad-brimmed black hats
+turned up at the sides.</p>
+
+<p>The Maltese are lovers of flowers, which are raised in
+profusion. At the corners of the principal streets were
+small fanciful buildings, a few feet in diameter, in which
+dark eyed brunettes offered flowers and bonbons for<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_90" id="Page_90">[Pg 90]</a></span>
+sale. The people also love music. In the Opera House,
+an elaborate structure, which, we were told, cost a
+quarter of a million dollars, Grand Opera is given three
+times a week for six months in the year.</p>
+
+<p>We visited the old church of St. John, which was built
+three centuries ago and lavishly adorned out of the
+proceeds of plunder that had been taken from infidels
+and pirates. The tower above the church contains a
+chime of ten bells, and the clock on the tower has a
+triple face, one face showing the hour of the day, one
+showing the day of the week, and the third, the day of
+the month. The heavy doors were open, but a curtain
+of matting hung over the entrance. A ragged, barefoot
+boy ran before us, and, drawing aside the matting that
+we might enter, extended his hand for a penny. We
+walked over the beautiful inlaid mosaic marble floor,
+and beheld handsomely painted ceilings with life-size
+figures overhead, and richly decorated walls and pillars
+around us. A priest with pride pointed out the famous
+paintings on the walls, the bronze and the marble
+statues around the sides, and, in the various chapels,
+the three huge iron keys which opened the gates of
+Jerusalem, Acre, and Rhodes, and the gates of solid
+silver in front of the richly decorated altar. As we
+stood before the silver gates our guide told us his little
+story:</p>
+
+<p>"When the French captured Malta in 1798 they
+carried away as booty the most valuable possessions of
+the church in the form of precious jewels, silver statues,
+golden vessels, valuable vestments, and works of art.
+The Emperor Napoleon with his own hand took a most<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_92" id="Page_92">[Pg 92]</a></span>
+valuable diamond from the finger of the jeweled glove
+which covered the sacred relic, the hand of St. John, and
+placed it on his own finger. The Emperor also took
+the diamond mounted sword, which had been carried
+by Valette, and buckled it to his side. These silver
+gates, too, would have been carried away but for the
+forethought of a priest who painted them black and so
+concealed their value."</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus098.jpg" width="500" height="294" alt="THE STREETS OF VALETTA WERE FULL OF LIFE THAT DAY PRECEDING THE FESTA."
+title="THE STREETS OF VALETTA WERE FULL OF LIFE THAT DAY PRECEDING THE FESTA." />
+<span class="caption">THE STREETS OF VALETTA WERE FULL OF LIFE THAT DAY PRECEDING THE FESTA.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>In the nave of this church we tramped over hundreds
+of marble slabs which have been placed among the
+mosaics in the floor as memorials of the knights and
+nobles who are buried underneath. These flat tombstones
+are adorned with representations of coats-of-arms,
+musical instruments, angels, crowns, palms,
+skeletons, and other odd devices. But in the crypt
+underneath, whither we were next conducted, majestic
+monuments of elaborate design mark the resting
+places of the most noted Grand Masters of the Order,
+the tomb of Grand Master Cottoner being one of the
+most imposing. In the sacristy we gazed at, but were
+not permitted to touch, the beautifully illuminated
+missals, the finely woven pieces of ancient embroidery,
+and the splendid robes of former Grand Masters.</p>
+
+<p>"The tapestry of the Lord's Supper and many other
+wonderful tapestries are locked in that chamber,"
+said the priest, pointing to a closed door, "and are only
+exhibited in June each year."</p>
+
+<p>At one of the altars in a side chapel worshipers knelt
+before a piece of the true cross; but the relics regarded
+as most precious in the custody of the Church of St.
+John, a thorn from the Savior's crown, portions of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_93" id="Page_93">[Pg 93]</a></span>
+bones of three apostles, one of the stones cast at St.
+Stephen, the right foot of Lazarus, and a fragment of
+the cradle of the infant Jesus, are guarded with great
+care and rarely exposed to the gaze of curious eyes.</p>
+
+<p>In the Governor's Palace the tourists spent a short
+time. The walls of the Council Chamber are hung
+with rare tapestry which has retained its color and
+beauty for nearly three centuries. The dining room
+and corridors are decorated with paintings of grim-faced
+Grand Masters of the past; and the gorgeous
+ball room contains a throne on which these same rulers
+sat in state surrounded by pomp and splendor. In the
+great hall of the Armory are rows of figures clad in the
+antique armor worn by the Knights, together with steel
+gloves, helmets, and coats of mail, inlaid with gold and
+silver; and around this hall are arranged the crossbows,
+arquebuses, spears, pikes, swords, battle axes, and old
+battle flags. There with the treasures are the old
+silver trumpet that sounded the retreat from Rhodes,
+and the faded parchment manuscript, or Papal edict,
+which sanctioned the gift of the island by Charles V.
+of Germany to the Knights; and among the trophies
+are the jeweled coat of mail and weapons of a famous
+Algerine corsair, a cannon curiously constructed of a
+copper tube wound with tarred rope, and many torn and
+blood-stained, crescent-mounted standards which in
+the hand-to-hand conflicts had been captured from the
+Turks.</p>
+
+<p>"What soldier of the present day could march or even
+ride any distance so encumbered with steel?" remarked
+one of the tourists as we stood before an emblazoned<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_94" id="Page_94">[Pg 94]</a></span>
+suit of mail that had been worn by one of the Grand
+Masters of the Knights. "To handle these heavy
+battle axes or long spears for stroke after stroke or
+thrust after thrust during the long hours the battle
+raged must have required muscles of steel and wonderful
+powers of endurance."</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus101.jpg" width="500" height="404" alt="THE CLOCK ABOVE THE ANCIENT CHURCH HAS A TRIPLE FACE."
+title="THE CLOCK ABOVE THE ANCIENT CHURCH HAS A TRIPLE FACE." />
+<span class="caption">THE CLOCK ABOVE THE ANCIENT CHURCH HAS A TRIPLE FACE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>"These breastplates and helmets and shields, which
+were worn by the Knights to protect them from the
+arrows and spears of their enemies," said one of the
+ladies, as she looked at the old armor, "enable me to
+understand better what St. Paul meant when he wrote<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_95" id="Page_95">[Pg 95]</a></span>
+to the Ephesians: 'Put on the whole armor of God that
+you may be able to stand against the wiles of the devil,'
+and 'all the fiery darts of the wicked.' The old monk-soldiers
+must have interpreted that command literally
+when they went out to fight the infidels."</p>
+
+<p>After completing our sight-seeing in the city of
+Valetta, a little train of cars on a narrow-gauge railroad
+carried us a distance of six miles to the older city of
+Citta Vecchia. The land along the way as far as we
+could see was divided into small plots ranging from
+about half an acre to two acres in size. Each plot
+was surrounded by stone walls from six to ten feet in
+height, many of which were broken and dilapidated.
+We were told that, although the climate of the island is
+quite mild, violent winds frequently blow over it, and
+these walls were erected to protect the fig, orange,
+lemon, and other fruit trees from destruction. Protected
+from the high winds, these trees yield abundantly;
+and, in the fertile soil of these plots, two or three crops
+of vegetables are raised each year. Much of the land
+was rocky and uncultivated. Very few trees were seen
+and those were dwarfed. One species of evergreen
+tree, called the Carob, grew only ten feet in height, but
+spread to three times that in breadth. In some neglected
+spots the prickly pear grew in rank masses. The
+houses along the way, built of yellow or gray stone, had
+a weather-beaten look, and the yards around them were
+enclosed with high walls. The small square windows
+in the houses and the flat stone roofs with enclosing
+parapets reminded us of pictures of the houses in Bible
+stories.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_96" id="Page_96">[Pg 96]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>In Citta Vecchia the two principal attractions were the
+Cathedral of St. Paul and the Grotto of St. Paul. The
+Cathedral is said to be built on the site of the house of
+Publius, the governor of the island, who entertained
+and lodged St. Paul for three days after he was ship-wrecked
+on this island, which in the Bible is called
+Melita. The Grotto is said to have been occupied by
+St. Paul during his three months' stay on the island.
+About four miles from the Cathedral is the bay of St.
+Paul, where the apostle was wrecked while on his way
+to Rome. There is the little creek in which the sailors
+tried to guide the storm-tossed vessel and the shore to
+which they escaped "on boards and on broken pieces
+of the ship."</p>
+
+<p>In Citta Vecchia we were shown the mosaic pavement
+and the decorated frieze of an old Roman house supposed
+to be over two thousand years old, which had been
+uncovered at a considerable distance below the surface
+while an excavation was being made. Notwithstanding
+their age the old mosaic pavement and frieze were in
+good condition.</p>
+
+<p>An interesting day of sight-seeing closed with a drive
+in Valetta through the humbler part of the city and
+down a long inclined street which led to the docks.
+At nightfall as our steamship moved eastward the
+lights of Malta's stronghold gradually faded from our
+sight, but the gleam of its lighthouse followed us for
+many a mile.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_97" id="Page_97">[Pg 97]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VII" id="CHAPTER_VII"></a>CHAPTER VII</h2>
+
+<p class="center">ATHENS AND THE ACROPOLIS.</p>
+
+
+<p>The sun was just appearing in the east as we approached
+the seaport of the Grecian capital.</p>
+
+<p>Through the mists of the dawning day we could
+make out dimly, ahead of us, only bleak bare hills. As
+the Moltke steamed through the straits we saw a lighthouse
+and a few buildings on the shore and over the low
+hill on our right the tops of masts; but when the vessel
+had entered through a narrow passage between the moles
+extending from either side, and had anchored in the
+centre of the well protected and commodious harbor of
+Piræus, we gazed on a scene of animation and activity.
+The bay was filled with shipping and the shore lined
+with warehouses where the stevedores were already
+busily engaged in lading or discharging cargoes. On
+each side of the Moltke, little more than a stone's throw
+away, lay gray battleships, cruisers, torpedo boats,
+destroyers, and other naval craft.</p>
+
+<p>"What war vessels are those?" was the question
+asked eagerly by many passengers.</p>
+
+<p>"The white flag with the blue St. Andrew's cross
+floating over that warship is the Russian national
+emblem," patiently replied one of the officers of our
+steamer, "and so I conclude that these vessels compose
+the Russian Mediterranean squadron."</p>
+
+<p>A band on the flagship began to play and the Russian<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_98" id="Page_98">[Pg 98]</a></span>
+sailors in clean white suits were seen forming in lines
+on the decks of the vessels, evidently for inspection or
+morning roll-call. On the rigging above the sailors'
+heads, swaying in the breeze, were hundreds of white
+suits, washed and hung out to dry.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus105.jpg" width="500" height="358" alt="HUNDREDS OF WHITE SUITS HUNG OUT TO DRY."
+title="HUNDREDS OF WHITE SUITS HUNG OUT TO DRY." />
+<span class="caption">HUNDREDS OF WHITE SUITS HUNG OUT TO DRY.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Soon fifty or more large row boats were plying around
+our steamer in readiness to convey us to the railroad
+station at the upper end of the harbor about a mile away.
+As we approached the shore in these boats we saw on the
+wharf at Piræus a motley crowd of dirty-handed, bare-footed,
+ill-clothed men and boys. It seemed as if all
+the idle and vagabond population of the city had assembled
+to lounge lazily in the sun, hoping, perhaps, to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_99" id="Page_99">[Pg 99]</a></span>
+obtain some small coins from the tourists during the
+transfer from boat to cars. If this was their hope they
+were disappointed. All arrangements for the welfare
+of the Moltke tourists had been carefully made in advance,
+and, as there was no baggage to be carried, the
+services of the dirty-handed men were not required.</p>
+
+<p>"Are these vagabonds and tramps the descendants
+of the noble Greeks whom we have honored all our
+lives?" sadly remarked a minister in our boat. "Can
+these be the offspring of the great orators who electrified
+their hearers, or of the famous architects and artists
+whose names are immortal? Are these swarthy-faced,
+plain-featured idlers the representatives of the Greek
+beauty of form and feature?"</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus106.jpg" width="500" height="283" alt="STRENGTH AND SIMPLICITY RATHER THAN BEAUTY."
+title="STRENGTH AND SIMPLICITY RATHER THAN BEAUTY." />
+<span class="caption">STRENGTH AND SIMPLICITY RATHER THAN BEAUTY.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>In preparation for a visit to these historic shores we
+had filled our minds with tales of heroism and visions<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_100" id="Page_100">[Pg 100]</a></span>
+of the beautiful; now the sight of this bare-footed
+throng, so different from the pictures we had formed in
+our minds, was a severe shock to our imagination.</p>
+
+<p>"These vagabonds do not represent the Greek race,"
+responded another who had traveled in that country
+before; "they are merely the dregs of the people, a
+class that may be found in any large city and especially
+in the seaports."</p>
+
+<p>The distance from Piræus to the city of Athens is but
+five miles. From the windows of the little cars we could
+see that the valley through which we passed was a succession
+of well cultivated fields, vineyards, and gardens.
+A white road, almost parallel to the railroad, traversed
+the valley. Gray-green trees in the distance indicated a
+district of olive orchards.</p>
+
+<p>At a station on the outskirts of the city we left the
+train and followed an old guide to visit the Theseum, or
+Temple of Theseus, a large edifice built in simple Doric
+style. The plain columns and unadorned pediments
+express strength and simplicity rather than beauty.
+Notwithstanding the fact that twenty-four centuries
+have passed since its erection, this temple is noted as
+being the best preserved of all the ancient buildings of
+Greece. A short time, however, sufficed for a view of
+the plain exterior and an entrance into the gloomy
+interior.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus108a.jpg" width="500" height="141" alt="I. OVER THE RUINS OF THE ANCIENT CITY." title="I. OVER THE RUINS OF THE ANCIENT CITY." />
+<span class="caption">I. OVER THE RUINS OF THE ANCIENT CITY.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus108b.jpg" width="500" height="143" alt="II. &quot;THIS IS MARS HILL,&quot; SAID THE GUIDE."
+title="II. &quot;THIS IS MARS HILL,&quot; SAID THE GUIDE." />
+<span class="caption">II. &quot;THIS IS MARS HILL,&quot; SAID THE GUIDE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Then proceeding along a fine modern road, built over
+the ruins of the ancient city, traces of which were seen
+in adjacent excavations, we passed, on our right, an
+open plateau on the rocks where an audience of eight
+or ten thousand might assemble. This was the Pynx<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_102" id="Page_102">[Pg 102]</a></span>
+of ancient times, a gathering place of the people. A
+flight of steps hewn in the stone at one side of this
+plateau leads up to a platform cut in the rock. From
+this rock, named the Platform of Demosthenes, great
+orators addressed the multitude, stirring their countrymen
+to deeds of valor. Beyond the Pynx, a cave with
+gates of rusty grated iron was pointed out as the prison
+in which the noble Socrates was incarcerated before
+being condemned to drink the fatal hemlock.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus109.jpg" width="500" height="284" alt="ONCE THE MAGNIFICENT MARBLE STAIRCASE."
+title="ONCE THE MAGNIFICENT MARBLE STAIRCASE." />
+<span class="caption">ONCE THE MAGNIFICENT MARBLE STAIRCASE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Farther up the slope the guide pointed to a small
+rock elevation on our left and said: "That is the
+Areopagus, or Mars Hill, from which the Apostle Paul
+made his appeal to the idolatrous Athenians. He probably
+ascended those sixteen steps that you see hewn in
+the rock. Where we are standing now, the people
+stood to listen. From that elevation Paul could view<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_103" id="Page_103">[Pg 103]</a></span>
+the avenues leading to the Acropolis, avenues adorned
+with statues in honor of gods and goddesses and famous
+heroes."</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus110.jpg" width="500" height="499" alt="IN HONOR OF NIKE, THE GODDESS OF VICTORY."
+title="IN HONOR OF NIKE, THE GODDESS OF VICTORY." />
+<span class="caption">IN HONOR OF NIKE, THE GODDESS OF VICTORY.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>As we stood there, we could almost hear Paul's words:</p>
+
+<p>"Ye men of Athens, I perceive that in all things ye are
+too superstitious. For as I passed by, and beheld the
+gods that ye worship, I found an altar with this inscription,
+'To the Unknown God.'&mdash;God dwelleth not in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_104" id="Page_104">[Pg 104]</a></span>
+temples made with hands.&mdash;We ought not to think
+that the Godhead is like unto gold, or silver, or stone,
+graven by art and man's device." The altar to the
+unknown god to which Paul referred may have been
+one of the many altars within sight of the elevation on
+which he stood.</p>
+
+<p>After we left Mars Hill a few minutes' walk brought
+us to the foot of a long flight of ruined steps, at the top
+of which stood broken marble columns. Before us was
+the Acropolis, the highest point of the city, a rocky
+eminence with inaccessible cliffs on three sides. The
+only approach to its summit, which is about two hundred
+feet above the level of the modern city, is on the southwest
+side, being reached by the avenues we had followed
+up the gradual slope past Mars Hill.</p>
+
+<p>"On this height," said the guide, "the Athenians,
+during the reign of Pericles in the golden age of Greece,
+erected a temple to their patron deity, Minerva, the
+goddess of wisdom. And to this goddess, named also
+Athena, who, as they asserted, sprang from the brain
+of Jupiter a mature woman in complete armor, they
+looked for protection. For her they offered their
+choicest gifts, yet they did not neglect the multitude of
+other gods whom they feared to offend."</p>
+
+<p>The old guide was well informed, but his English
+was rather difficult to understand. He was interrupted
+a number of times until one of the tourists, a
+college professor, undertook the task of assisting him
+in the story.</p>
+
+<p>"These dilapidated stone steps," said the professor,
+"formed once the magnificent marble staircase that<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_106" id="Page_106">[Pg 106]</a></span>
+led to the gateway of the Acropolis. The staircase was
+seventy feet in width; in the centre was a sloping
+carriageway up which chariots could be driven. It was
+built by Pericles four hundred years before the Christian
+era. Statues of wonderful beauty, by famous sculptors,
+were arranged along the steps. At times of great
+rejoicing, as after a victory, triumphal processions
+ascended these flights to present offerings to the gods,
+or to deposit in the treasury of the temple the spoils
+taken from their enemies and to offer sacrifices and
+worship to their protecting goddess. The Propylæa,
+or grand entrance hall and gateway to the Acropolis,
+stood at the head of the stairway; these broken columns
+are all that remain of one of the most imposing structures
+of that golden age."</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus112.jpg" width="300" height="469" alt="GIGANTIC STATUES OF WOMEN UPHOLD THE CORNICE."
+title="GIGANTIC STATUES OF WOMEN UPHOLD THE CORNICE." />
+<span class="caption">GIGANTIC STATUES OF WOMEN UPHOLD THE CORNICE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>"Keep close to the professor and never mind the
+guide," urged one of our companions. We followed
+her suggestion.</p>
+
+<p>"This small building on our right with four graceful
+Ionic columns in front," continued the professor, "is
+the Temple of the Wingless Victory, so called because
+it was erected by the Athenians in honor of Nike, the
+goddess of Victory. The statue of Nike which they
+placed within the temple, bore in her hand the palm of
+victory and upheld the wreath of laurel, but lacked
+the customary wings. The Athenians hoped that
+without wings victory might never depart from the
+shores of Greece."</p>
+
+<p>"The building to our left," said the professor as we
+moved on, "was named the Erechtheum after the
+Attic hero Erechtheus, and once contained a seated<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_108" id="Page_108">[Pg 108]</a></span>
+figure of the goddess Athena. These six gigantic statues
+of women upholding the cornice of the porch are the
+Caryatides and deserve a careful examination; for,
+although carefully prepared casts of the Caryatides
+may be seen in some of the large museums, no cast can
+be a perfect representation of the original. One of
+these figures, as you may easily see, is only a copy, the
+original having been carried away to England by Lord
+Elgin and given to the British Museum. The marble
+columns on the other side of the Erechtheum are considered
+the best examples in existence of the Ionic
+style of architecture."</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus114.jpg" width="500" height="291" alt="ACROSS THE SUMMIT OF THE ACROPOLIS, TRAMPLING OVER FRAGMENTS OF DECORATIONS."
+title="ACROSS THE SUMMIT OF THE ACROPOLIS, TRAMPLING OVER FRAGMENTS OF DECORATIONS." />
+<span class="caption">ACROSS THE SUMMIT OF THE ACROPOLIS, TRAMPLING OVER FRAGMENTS OF DECORATIONS.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Near the Erechtheum we passed the foundation on
+which had stood a colossal bronze figure of Athena,
+sixty feet in height, holding in her hand a spear tipped
+with gold, the point of which could be seen by the
+ancient mariners far out at sea. Making our way
+across the summit of the Acropolis around pieces of
+broken columns, trampling over fragments of decorations,
+and passing foundations of missing statues, we
+stood in front of the Parthenon, the temple which had
+been erected to the patron deity of the Athenians. We
+thought that the professor might weary of answering
+questions, but he seemed glad to voice the thoughts that
+were arising in his mind.</p>
+
+<p>"In the harmonious proportions of this stately
+edifice," he said, "the peerless genius of the architect
+Ictinus, who designed the structure, is revealed, and in
+the delicate finish of the smallest details of the sculptured
+work, the wonderful skill of the artists who
+carried out the master's design is shown. We hardly<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_109" id="Page_109">[Pg 109]</a></span>
+know which to admire more, the matchless genius of
+the designer, or the marvelous skill of the artists. Our
+poet Emerson truly says:</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"Earth proudly wears the Parthenon<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">As the best gem upon her throne."<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>During a pause for critical examination of the front
+of the temple, the amateur photographers of the party
+placed their cameras in position.</p>
+
+<p>"Place a group of people in the foreground," suggested
+the professor. "You see that the marble steps are nearly
+two feet in height, and without some object for comparison,
+these steps in a picture will appear to be only
+of ordinary size, thus an adequate idea of the size of the
+temple will not be given. When you see any picture of
+the Parthenon notice the truth of my suggestion.</p>
+
+<p>"There were, as you see at this end now," continued
+our instructor, "eight white marble columns at each end
+and seventeen columns along each side. The columns
+on the sides are mostly broken now or altogether gone,
+and the color has changed from white to this soft golden
+yellow tint. The carved marble frieze, which, over five
+hundred feet in length, extended around the building,
+was the work of Phidias and has never been surpassed
+in beauty by any sculpture of the kind in the world.
+And these fluted columns are, in grace and proportion,
+the noblest examples of the Doric style of architecture."</p>
+
+<p>"But, in the interior," said the professor, becoming
+more enthusiastic, "surrounded by statues and works of
+art in marble, bronze, ebony, ivory, and gold, stood the
+crowning glory of the Parthenon, the famous colossal<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[Pg 110]</a></span>
+statue of the goddess Athena Parthenos, Athena the
+Virgin, forty feet in height, made of ivory and gold under
+the direction of Phidias. The Caryatides as we looked
+at them awhile ago appeared gigantic in size, but they
+are only eight feet in height. The height of the statue
+of Athena was equal to five Caryatides one above the
+other. Let me read you the description of the statue
+by an old Greek historian, Pausanias."</p>
+
+<p>The professor, drawing a note book from his pocket,
+read as follows: "The image itself is made of ivory and
+gold. Its helmet is surmounted in the middle by the
+figure of a sphinx, and on either side of the helmet are
+griffins wrought in relief. The image of Athena stands
+upright, clad in a garment that reaches to her feet; on
+her breast is the head of Medusa wrought in ivory. She
+holds a Victory about four cubits high in one hand, and
+in the other hand a spear. At her feet lies a shield, and
+near the spear is a serpent."</p>
+
+<p>"The Victory referred to by Pausanias," said the
+professor, replacing his note book, "was an image of the
+goddess of Victory half the height of the Caryatides,
+which we refer to for comparison. The size of the
+statue held in Athena's hand helps us to realize the
+height of the colossal figure."</p>
+
+<p>"The Parthenon contained also a treasury in which
+the Athenians deposited the immense treasures and
+spoils taken from their enemies. In the course of centuries,
+however, the growing wealth and power of
+Athens incurred the jealousy and wrath of other nations.
+The city was conquered and ravaged many times. The
+Persians ingloriously failed in their attempt, but the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_112" id="Page_112">[Pg 112]</a></span>
+Romans, victorious under Nero, despoiled this temple
+and carried away hundreds of bronze statues and works
+of art to grace the Emperor's triumphal entry into
+Rome. Other Roman conquerors, following Nero's
+example, exhibited to the applauding multitudes in the
+streets of Rome long trains of spoils, consisting of the
+rarest paintings, ornaments, and bronzes torn from the
+Parthenon. Goths, Normans, Franks, Venetians, and
+Vandals successively plundered the city, stripping away
+the decorations of gold and silver from columns and
+walls, and breaking from their foundations the statues
+that adorned the plateau of the Acropolis. The Turks
+carried off shiploads of marble and bronzes to Constantinople.
+England also enriched the British Museum
+with many choice marbles from the Acropolis&mdash;to
+preserve them, Lord Elgin explained."</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus118.jpg" width="500" height="295" alt="A SHELL DESCENDED INTO THE PARTHENON, THE PRIDE OF CENTURIES LAY SHATTERED."
+title="A SHELL DESCENDED INTO THE PARTHENON, THE PRIDE OF CENTURIES LAY SHATTERED." />
+<span class="caption">A SHELL DESCENDED INTO THE PARTHENON, THE PRIDE OF CENTURIES LAY SHATTERED.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The professor paused for a moment and his hearers
+made use of the time to express some very decided
+opinions with reference to Lord Elgin.</p>
+
+<p>"But the culminating disaster to the Parthenon
+occurred in the year 1687," continued the professor,
+resuming his story with as much sadness in his voice as
+if the disaster had been a personal loss. "Greece was
+then under the rule of the Sultan, and the Parthenon
+was used by his army as a powder magazine. The
+Venetians at war with the Turks, besieging Athens,
+bombarded the city. A shell descended into the Parthenon,
+and in a moment's time the most magnificent
+architectural structure of ancient times, the pride of
+centuries, lay shattered in the ruins we see before us."</p>
+
+<p>"The Parthenon in twenty-four centuries has seen<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_114" id="Page_114">[Pg 114]</a></span>
+many religious changes. Built first as a temple of
+idolatry, it became under the Romans a Roman Catholic
+Cathedral, under the Greeks again a Greek Christian
+Church, and then under the Sultan's rule a Mohammedan
+Mosque."</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus120.jpg" width="500" height="290" alt="THE PREDOMINATING COLOR OF THE CITY IS YELLOW."
+title="THE PREDOMINATING COLOR OF THE CITY IS YELLOW." />
+<span class="caption">THE PREDOMINATING COLOR OF THE CITY IS YELLOW.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The professor wished to apologize for detaining us
+with the length of his explanations but he was overwhelmed
+with expressions of appreciation for his kindness.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus121.jpg" width="500" height="363" alt="THE THEATRE OF BACCHUS HAS TIERS OF STONE SEATS."
+title="THE THEATRE OF BACCHUS HAS TIERS OF STONE SEATS." />
+<span class="caption">THE THEATRE OF BACCHUS HAS TIERS OF STONE SEATS.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>"Why," said one of the tourists, "we have sailed half
+way around the world to see these ruins, and yet some
+of us have so neglected history and mythology that, we
+are ashamed to say, our knowledge of the history of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_115" id="Page_115">[Pg 115]</a></span>
+Greece and the stories of its heroes is extremely limited.
+I am indeed grateful and trust that you will be patient
+with our ignorance."</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus122.jpg" width="500" height="359" alt="THE FRONT OF THE STAGE CARVED WITH GROTESQUE FIGURES."
+title="THE FRONT OF THE STAGE CARVED WITH GROTESQUE FIGURES." />
+<span class="caption">THE FRONT OF THE STAGE CARVED WITH GROTESQUE FIGURES.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>After walking through the small museum on the
+Acropolis where a number of interesting relics are on
+exhibition, we lingered awhile on a little platform at the
+northeast corner of the Acropolis from which an excellent
+view of the city may be obtained. As seen from this
+view-point the predominating color of the city is yellow.
+The buildings erected of stone, and plastered or frescoed,
+are white, or yellow, or light pink, or combinations of
+yellow and white, and the roofs appear to be covered
+with yellow tiles. Below us to the right we saw the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_116" id="Page_116">[Pg 116]</a></span>
+ruined columns of the Temple of Jupiter, and the white
+palace and the royal gardens of the king. Across the
+valley beyond the city we could see the prominent steep
+rock named Lycabettus with the chapel of St. George
+on the summit, and ten miles away we could make out
+dimly Mt. Pentelicus, from which all the white marble
+for the temples was quarried, and Mt. Hymettus, in a
+region noted for the excellent quality of its honey.</p>
+
+<p>Descending from the heights of the Acropolis we
+entered the ruins of the Odeon of Herodus Atticus which
+lay at the base of the Acropolis. This theatre had a
+stone floor, a stone stage, and tiers of stone seats capable
+of seating an audience of six thousand, and was covered
+with a cedar roof. Now the roof is completely gone
+and the seats are in partial ruin. Beyond this smaller
+theatre are the ruins of a larger one called the Theatre of
+Bacchus. Here the masterpieces of Eschylus, Sophocles,
+Euripides, and Aristophanes, in the golden days
+of Grecian glory, gave delight to great audiences. This
+theatre, accommodating thirty thousand spectators,
+contained a semi-circle of marble seats built up against
+the cliff of the Acropolis, and was open to the sky. The
+large stage was built of marble and the front of it was
+carved with grotesque figures. The lower tiers of seats
+nearest the stage were marble chairs reserved for priests
+and other dignitaries. The names of the men who occupied
+the chairs were carved in the marble, and some
+of these names are yet visible. While resting for a
+short time in these official chairs, we tried to imagine
+that we were viewing on the marble stage the performance
+of an old Greek tragedy by actors in the graceful<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_117" id="Page_117">[Pg 117]</a></span>
+flowing robes of those ancient times. A few minutes
+later we were grouped at the side of the columns which
+are all that remain of the glory of the Temple of Jupiter.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus124.jpg" width="500" height="387" alt="WE DROVE AROUND THE ROYAL GARDENS." title="WE DROVE AROUND THE ROYAL GARDENS." />
+<span class="caption">WE DROVE AROUND THE ROYAL GARDENS.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The professor, responding to our request for information,
+said: "The Olympieum was the Temple erected
+in honor of Zeus, the supreme deity of the Greeks. As
+the Roman name for the supreme deity was Jupiter or
+Jove, the temple was called the Temple of Zeus by the
+Greeks, and the Temple of Jupiter by the Romans. The
+Athenians began the construction of the edifice two
+centuries before the birth of Christ, but the work was
+interrupted by wars and lack of funds and remained<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_118" id="Page_118">[Pg 118]</a></span>
+unfinished for three hundred years. Then the Roman
+Emperor Hadrian, having conquered Greece, completed
+the work and claimed for himself all the honor and
+glory for the erection of the temple. The Temple of
+Zeus, next to that erected to Diana by the Ephesians,
+was the largest of the temples of antiquity. It was
+built in the Corinthian style of architecture and had a
+triple row of eight columns each at the ends, and a
+double row of twenty columns each at the sides. Now
+you see only these fifteen huge columns remaining. In
+the interior of the temple was a colossal statue of Jupiter
+overlaid with ivory and gold. Beside the statue of the
+god stood a companion figure of equal size representing
+the Emperor Hadrian. The grounds around the temple
+were filled by Hadrian with hundreds of statues, many
+of which represented himself."</p>
+
+<p>Carriages which had been ordered by the managers of
+the excursion awaited here to take us rapidly to other
+points of interest. As we crossed a bridge over a little
+stream on our way to the Stadium, the guide said: "This
+river appears small, perhaps, in your eyes, but it is great
+in the history and legends of Greece. It is the river
+Ilissus."</p>
+
+<p>"The Stadium," said the professor as we entered the
+structure, "is the immense athletic field of Athens. It
+was constructed about the year 350 B.C. Five hundred
+years later the sixty tiers of seats capable of seating
+fifty thousand spectators were covered with white
+marble. Centuries afterwards in evil times athletic
+sports were neglected, the place fell into disuse, and the
+marble was converted into lime. In modern times the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_120" id="Page_120">[Pg 120]</a></span>
+Stadium has been restored, perhaps not so large as before,
+and again the tiers of seats have been covered with
+white marble. In international athletic contests held
+in the restored Stadium, Americans have competed
+successfully for the laurel crown."</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus126.jpg" width="500" height="291" alt="THE TIERS OF SEATS HAVE BEEN COVERED WITH WHITE MARBLE."
+title="THE TIERS OF SEATS HAVE BEEN COVERED WITH WHITE MARBLE." />
+<span class="caption">THE TIERS OF SEATS HAVE BEEN COVERED WITH WHITE MARBLE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Leaving the Stadium, we drove around the Royal
+Gardens through streets shaded by graceful pepper trees,
+caught glimpses of palms, orange, and ornamental trees
+within the gardens, and stopped a few minutes in front
+of the extensive white marble palace of the king. As
+we passed through the residential portion of the city we
+were impressed with the cleanliness of the well swept
+streets and with the purity of the soft creamy yellow
+and pink colorings of the buildings. Fortunately we
+saw no great manufacturing establishments belching
+forth volumes of blackening smoke to soil these delicate
+shades.</p>
+
+<p>We halted before the University, a majestic building
+occupying a block on a wide boulevard, and before the
+Academy of Science, another large white marble edifice
+adjoining the University, a building much more elaborate
+than its neighbor, with Ionic porticoes, a facade
+enlivened by bright coloring and gilding, and pediments
+adorned with statues.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus128.jpg" width="500" height="428" alt="GREEK CHILDREN WERE GROUPED AROUND A PUNCH AND
+JUDY SHOW." title="GREEK CHILDREN WERE GROUPED AROUND A PUNCH AND
+JUDY SHOW." />
+<span class="caption">GREEK CHILDREN WERE GROUPED AROUND A PUNCH AND
+JUDY SHOW.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>"What odd-looking costumes those men wear. They
+look like ballet girls arrayed for the stage," said one of
+the ladies in our carriage, pointing to a group on the sidewalk.
+The men wore tights, low shoes with pompons
+on the toes, black garters with tassels, blue jackets
+ornamented with many brass buttons, red skull caps
+with large black tassels, and very full skirts. The guide<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_121" id="Page_121">[Pg 121]</a></span>
+said that these men were soldiers of the king's guard and
+though their uniforms might appear peculiar to our
+eyes they did not seem more strange than the tartans of
+Scotch Highlanders were to the Greeks. The king's
+guard, he told us, is composed of men from the mountain
+regions of Greece, who dress in the ancient military
+costume of that section. The uniforms of the regular
+Greek soldiers are very similar to those worn by the
+soldiers of our own country. The officers we met were<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_122" id="Page_122">[Pg 122]</a></span>
+handsome men and especially well uniformed. The
+well-to-do and middle class Athenian people whom we
+saw on the streets were dressed in modern English style.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus129.jpg" width="500" height="334" alt="BEFORE THE UNIVERSITY, A MAJESTIC BUILDING."
+title="BEFORE THE UNIVERSITY, A MAJESTIC BUILDING." />
+<span class="caption">BEFORE THE UNIVERSITY, A MAJESTIC BUILDING.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The National Archæological Museum has a valuable
+collection of antiquities that would require much time
+for examination. Perhaps the most interesting to us
+were the old tombs from Mycenæ with their resurrected
+contents of skeletons, gold masques, ornaments, and
+weapons; the reduced copy of the gold and ivory
+statue of Athena Parthenos; the marble figure of a man
+in stooping position lately found in the sea; the statue of
+the god Hermes; and the large and beautiful vases recovered
+from the excavations. On the vases scenes of
+ancient Greek life or legend were represented.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_123" id="Page_123">[Pg 123]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>"It was a pastoral scene of love-making carved on a
+Grecian vase that inspired the poet Keats to write his
+noted poem, 'Ode on a Grecian Urn,'" said one of our
+friends. "Let me tell you my favorite stanza," and,
+with an eloquence that brought out their meaning,
+she repeated the beautiful lines:</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">Heard melodies are sweet, but those unheard<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Are sweeter; therefore, ye soft pipes, play on;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Not to the sensual ear, but, more endear'd,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Pipe to the spirit ditties of no tone:<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Fair youth, beneath the trees, thou canst not leave<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Thy song, nor ever can those trees be bare;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Bold lover, never, never canst thou kiss,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Though winning near the goal&mdash;yet, do not grieve;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">She cannot fade, though thou hast not thy bliss,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Forever wilt thou love, and she be fair!<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>On both days while in Athens we lunched at one of the
+hotels facing Constitution Square and ate of the delicious
+honey from Mt. Hymettus, returning to the Moltke in
+the harbor in time to have a late dinner and to spend
+the night. In the public park in front of the hotel the
+trees were laden with oranges. Beyond the park
+through the green foliage could be seen the white palace
+of the king.</p>
+
+<p>While rambling through the streets we saw a funeral
+procession. First came many banners and symbols of
+the Greek Church, carried by church officials; then followed
+the casket borne by men, the casket open and the
+pale face of the dead exposed to the gaze of the onlookers;
+a man came next carrying the lid of the coffin
+filled with flowers; then priests in black robes, men and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_124" id="Page_124">[Pg 124]</a></span>
+women in black, and girls in white holding wreaths and
+flowers. The people along the way removed their hats
+and crossed themselves, muttering prayers as the procession
+passed by.</p>
+
+<p>The modern religion of Greece is that of the Greek
+church, a religion of many ceremonies. The priests,
+long-haired, heavy-bearded men, wear long flowing
+black robes and black hats resembling our silk dress
+hats turned upside down with the brim at the top.
+They, the guide informed us, are men of influence; their
+hands are kissed by their people; their advice is sought,
+and their opinions received with deference by the members
+of their church.</p>
+
+<p>The stores for the sale of candles to be burned on
+ceremonial occasions made an interesting display.
+There were candles of all sizes, ranging from six feet
+in height, beautifully decorated, which only the wealthy
+could afford, down to the small unadorned dip that the
+smallest coin might purchase.</p>
+
+<p>"These candles," said the guide while we were pricing
+some of the decorated ones, "are used for the rejoicings
+at baptisms, at the festivities on wedding occasions,
+and for lightening the gloom around the caskets of the
+dead. They are given as penance to the church, or as
+votive offerings to brighten the altars of the Virgin or
+patron saints."</p>
+
+<p>Eikons, the sacred memorials which the Greek Christians
+hang in their homes, representing the Virgin Mary
+holding the infant Christ in her arms, were also for sale
+in great numbers. Some of these were merely painted
+boards or silvered or gilded metal; others were of ex<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_125" id="Page_125">[Pg 125]</a></span>pensive
+material, incrusted with jewels. In all the
+Eikons, either cheap or dear, the painted faces and heads
+of the Virgin and child were visible through openings in
+the metal or board.</p>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 200px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus132.jpg" width="200" height="351" alt="AND BLUE JACKET ORNAMENTED WITH
+MANY BRASS BUTTONS." title="AND BLUE JACKET ORNAMENTED WITH
+MANY BRASS BUTTONS." />
+<span class="caption">AND BLUE JACKET ORNAMENTED WITH
+MANY BRASS BUTTONS.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>"At Easter time,"
+said one of the dealers
+in ecclesiastical wares,
+"we sell thousands of
+candles for the great
+midnight celebration
+of the lighting of the
+candles. Just as the
+Easter day is ushered
+in, the Patriarch from
+his platform makes
+the announcement,
+'Christ is risen.' The
+people repeat it over
+and over, the candles
+are lighted, then raised
+and lowered three
+times in honor of the
+Trinity, and we return
+to our homes to break
+the three days' fast
+by a feast of rejoicing."</p>
+
+<p>When returning
+from the wharf to the steamer in the evening some of
+the tourists were conveyed in a tug and others in row
+boats. The oarsmen to save the labor of rowing cast<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_126" id="Page_126">[Pg 126]</a></span>
+their lines to the tug and the dancing of the little boats
+on the waves as they were drawn swiftly down the
+bay in the wake of the larger craft caused some anxiety
+on the part of the more timid of the occupants.</p>
+
+<p>On the evening of Tuesday, the twenty-fourth of
+February, just as the silver-toned bells on the Russian
+warships were telling the hour of five, the anchor of the
+Moltke was drawn up and the vessel almost imperceptibly
+moved around and headed for the narrow outlet
+between the breakwaters. As we slowly steamed away
+from the Russian vessels, our band played the Russian
+national hymn and the Russian flag was elevated to the
+top of the Moltke's mast in a farewell salutation. Immediately
+the crowds of Russian sailors on the warships
+removed their hats and remained bareheaded until the
+music ceased. Then, in response, the Russian band
+played our national hymn, and as we sailed away, the
+strains of the music became fainter and fainter until they
+died away in the distance.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_127" id="Page_127">[Pg 127]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus133.jpg" width="500" height="212" alt="SOME IN A TUG AND OTHERS IN ROWBOATS."
+title="SOME IN A TUG AND OTHERS IN ROWBOATS." />
+<span class="caption">SOME IN A TUG AND OTHERS IN ROWBOATS.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Looking backward after leaving the harbor we saw
+clearly defined, in the golden evening light, the towering
+Acropolis and the Parthenon crowning its summit, and,
+as we sailed away from the city which was once the
+centre of culture, refinement, and wealth, we tried to recall
+the stories of her glorious past. The figures of
+legend, myth, and history,&mdash;mighty warriors, celebrated
+heroes, eloquent orators, illustrious painters, renowned
+architects, great historians, immortal poets, and wonderful
+deities; Spartan mothers, Thermopylæ defenders,
+and Persian invaders; beautiful Helen, muscular Hercules,
+crusty Diogenes, deformed Æsop, silver-tongued
+Demosthenes, fleet-footed Mercury, drunken Silenus,
+stately Juno, and lovely Venus,&mdash;a confused procession
+of mortals and immortals rushed across the brain.</p>
+
+<p>"Look," said the professor with note book in hand
+interrupting our dreams of the past, "that strait to the
+left behind us is the entrance to the bay of Salamis where
+the Persian fleet of one thousand sail encountered the
+smaller fleet of only three hundred Grecian vessels in the
+year 480 B.C. The rocky brow of the hill on the farther
+side of the strait is the place where the haughty Xerxes
+sat in his silver-footed chair to gloat over the expected
+annihilation of Greek power. I want to read to you,
+before we go to our evening meal, the vivid description
+of the conflict from the tragedy of 'The Persians.' It
+was written by the poet Eschylus, who himself was one
+of the heroes in the fight.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_128" id="Page_128">[Pg 128]</a></span>"</p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_VIII" id="CHAPTER_VIII"></a>CHAPTER VIII.</h2>
+
+<p class="center">CONSTANTINOPLE AND SANTA SOPHIA.</p>
+
+
+<p>On Wednesday morning, February twenty-fifth,
+the ladies donned winter wraps and the gentlemen
+heavy overcoats for their morning promenades
+on deck. All night the Moltke had steamed
+northward and the region of palms and orange trees
+had been left behind. By referring to the large
+atlas of the world in the library, we found that we
+were in the same latitude as that of New York City.</p>
+
+<p>As we approached the entrance to the Strait of Dardanelles,
+the ancient Hellespont, which connects the
+Ægean Sea with the Sea of Marmora, the Turkish
+fortifications crowning the hills on both sides of the
+channel were plainly visible. Under the great guns of
+the fortresses the Moltke anchored.</p>
+
+<p>"Why do we stop here?" inquired one of the tourists
+of the surgeon, who was standing near watching the
+shore.</p>
+
+<p>"This is the quarantine station," replied the doctor,
+"and we must wait here for the official inspection.
+According to Turkish regulations, the passage of foreign
+warships through the Dardanelles is absolutely prohibited
+at any time and merchant vessels are not allowed
+to enter during the night. Every vessel arriving here
+must undergo inspection before receiving a permit to
+proceed. The Sultan guards this gateway to the most<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_130" id="Page_130">[Pg 130]</a></span>
+vulnerable part of his dominion, not only to prevent the
+entrance of a hostile fleet, but to protect his people from
+the incursions of that insidious foe, the plague, which
+sometimes ravages the Eastern countries. There come
+the officials now in response to our signals," he added
+as a yacht steamed out from the shore. "I must go
+with the captain to welcome them at the head of the
+gangway."</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus136a.jpg" width="500" height="143" alt="I. WITHIN SIGHT OF DOMES AND MINARETS."
+title="I. WITHIN SIGHT OF DOMES AND MINARETS." />
+<span class="caption">I. WITHIN SIGHT OF DOMES AND MINARETS.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus136b.jpg" width="500" height="140" alt="II. FAMOUS ST. SOPHIA HAS FOUR MINARETS."
+title="II. FAMOUS ST. SOPHIA HAS FOUR MINARETS." />
+<span class="caption">II. FAMOUS ST. SOPHIA HAS FOUR MINARETS.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The Turkish quarantine physician in red fez and handsome
+fur overcoat, accompanied by his assistants and
+the inspector, came on board. Madam Rumor whispers
+that a good sized tip sometimes obviates tedious personal
+examinations and insures prompt issuance of a
+clean bill of health without exasperating delays. However
+it was, the quarantine physician, after consulting
+with the ship physician, quickly found the health conditions
+satisfactory, and the inspector of cargoes granted
+his permit. The pilot who was to guide the vessel
+through the swiftly flowing current of the Hellespont
+joined us here, and with him came the dragoman or
+chief guide who had been engaged by the managers to
+take special charge of the sight-seeing excursions of our
+party while in Constantinople.</p>
+
+<p>Proceeding slowly on our way, we noticed half a dozen
+Turkish warships lying in the stream near by. One who
+claimed to know said that the Turkish naval vessels had
+been gathering barnacles and mussels for four years and
+were unfit for active service. But the fortresses guarding
+the strait, he said, were in excellent condition and
+well equipped with batteries of modern make.</p>
+
+<p>The Strait of Dardanelles, for a distance of forty miles<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_131" id="Page_131">[Pg 131]</a></span>
+separating the continent of Asia from that of Europe,
+varies in width, narrowing to less than one mile at some
+places and broadening out to four miles at others. By
+referring to the steamer's atlas, consulting guide books,
+exchanging historical knowledge, and questioning good-natured
+officials, the tourists obtained information about
+the various points of interest that they were passing.
+Beyond the entrance, at the narrowest point of the
+strait, the place was pointed out where the Persian king
+Xerxes with his vast army crossed the channel on a
+bridge of boats for the invasion of Europe in the year
+480 B.C.</p>
+
+<p>"Little then," remarked a tourist, "did that imperious
+invader dream that within a year, in humiliation and
+defeat, and with only a poor remnant of that great
+army, he would recross that strait to Asia again."</p>
+
+<p>At the same place in the channel, we were informed,
+Alexander the Great with his Greek legions crossed
+from Europe in the year 334 B.C. and continued his
+victorious march until all the then known portion of
+Asia was subdued to his rule.</p>
+
+<p>"Then," said another tourist, "when flushed with
+victory, he wept for other worlds to conquer. To me
+the saddest part of Alexander's history is that he was
+himself conquered by his own appetite and never
+returned to his native shore."</p>
+
+<p>Another tragic tale connected with that place is the
+story of Hero and Leander. Across that mile of swiftly
+flowing current, the story says, Leander nightly swam
+from Abydos to the tower on the opposite shore to visit
+his beloved Hero, the priestess of Venus. In one of his<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_132" id="Page_132">[Pg 132]</a></span>
+nightly excursions the swimmer was drowned in a storm,
+and Hero, after hearing of Leander's death, despairingly
+threw herself into the sea to share his sad fate.</p>
+
+<p>"There is the height from which Hero cast herself,"
+said an official, "and this is the place where Lord Byron,
+in emulation of Leander, performed the same difficult
+feat of swimming the channel."</p>
+
+<p>To the right, on the Asian shore not far away, was the
+plain of Troy where Dr. Schlieman won fame by making
+the excavations and discoveries which led to the location
+of the lost city of Troy. In this ancient city of Troy,
+according to Homer, the beautiful Grecian princess
+Helen, abducted by Paris, the son of the King of Troy,
+was detained for ten years. The enraged Greeks under
+Ulysses and Ajax, seeking to rescue the princess, besieged
+the city and finally succeeded in entering its
+gates and accomplishing their purpose by means of the
+stratagem of a huge wooden horse.</p>
+
+<p>After sailing through the length of the Sea of Marmora,
+about one hundred and ten miles, we arrived at five
+o'clock in the evening within sight of the domes and
+minarets that crown the promontory at the entrance
+to the Strait of Bosporus. From the time we caught
+our first glimpse of a distant minaret, until the anchor
+of our steamer was dropped in the channel, every
+tourist was intent on the picturesque views which
+presented themselves. While the Moltke was steadily
+moving onward and our point of view continually
+changing, the dragoman at intervals pointed out the
+various places of interest, now on one side, now on the
+other.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_133" id="Page_133">[Pg 133]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus140.jpg" width="500" height="287" alt="IS CALLED SERAGLIO POINT."
+title="IS CALLED SERAGLIO POINT." />
+<span class="caption">IS CALLED SERAGLIO POINT.</span>
+</div><p>
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_134" id="Page_134">[Pg 134]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>"The Strait of Bosporus, which we are now approaching,
+is here a little over a mile in width," said he. "The
+part of the city you see on the headland on the north
+shore of the Strait is the oldest part of Constantinople,
+and is called Stamboul. It is occupied principally by
+Turks, Greeks, Armenians, and Jews. The most celebrated
+mosques, and also the great bazaars in which
+tourists delight to wander, are in Stamboul."</p>
+
+<p>"That dome with six minarets surrounding it, partially
+hidden by the intervening trees and buildings, is
+the Mosque of Ahmed, one of the most interesting in
+the city. Beyond it you can see the dome and four minarets
+of the more famous St. Sophia. The name of this
+is probably familiar to you, for almost every visitor
+whom I have escorted has told me that he had heard
+of the Mosque of St. Sophia."</p>
+
+<p>"And that is Scutari," he continued, calling our attention
+to the city on the Asiatic shore of the strait. "The
+great square yellow building so prominent on that side
+is the military barracks. The large structure nearer
+us is the military hospital where the English lady nursed
+the soldiers during the war with Russia fifty years ago.
+Perhaps you have heard of the lady?"</p>
+
+<p>We informed the dragoman that the noble work of
+Florence Nightingale during the Crimean war was well
+known to the American people, and her name held in
+high honor by them.</p>
+
+<p>"The point beyond us on the left," said the guide a
+few minutes later, "is called Seraglio Point. The
+portion of the city on the promontory, extending along
+the Bosporus, is about one mile in length and half a mile<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_135" id="Page_135">[Pg 135]</a></span>
+in width and is called the Seraglio. In these extensive
+grounds are the well guarded Treasury buildings containing
+the accumulated treasures of centuries, the Imperial
+Museum of Antiquities, and many other public
+edifices. There also are the palaces, kiosks, and gardens,
+which were occupied by the Sultans and their families
+until the present Sultan changed his residence to another
+part of the city.</p>
+
+<p>"The stream of water to our left," he added as our
+steamer rounded Seraglio Point, "is called the Golden
+Horn, so named on account of its curved shape. This
+inlet of the Bosporus, not over one-third of a mile in
+width, separates the older Stamboul from old Galata
+and newer Pera. Over the two bridges across this
+inlet streams of people pass constantly. Galata is the
+business section of the city which includes the wharves,
+steamship offices, and wholesale establishments. Pera,
+situated on the heights above Galata, contains the
+residences of the wealthier class, as well as hotels, modern
+stores, and the residences of the ambassadors and consuls."</p>
+
+<p>After passing the mouth of the Golden Horn, the
+Moltke slackened speed and anchored in the Bosporus
+apposite Galata, a little way from the shore. Prominent
+on the shore at the water's edge, not far from our
+anchorage, stood a small but beautiful white mosque
+with delicate minarets, and just beyond it a snow white
+palace of magnificent size.</p>
+
+<p>"The white marble building that you see extending
+for some distance along the Bosporus," said the guide,
+"is the Dolmah Bagcheh Palace of the Sultan, one of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_136" id="Page_136">[Pg 136]</a></span>
+magnificent palaces which he does not occupy. Once
+or twice a year he holds a reception there. In the distance
+along the water is the Cheraghan Palace where the
+imprisoned ex-Sultan Murad, the elder brother of the
+present Sultan, for many years had every luxury but
+liberty. And on the heights just beyond those grounds
+is Yildiz Kiosk, the palace where now lives the present
+ruler of Turkey, his Imperial Majesty, Sultan Abdul
+Hamid. Strangers are not permitted to enter its
+gates, but we have obtained his Imperial Majesty's
+permission to take your party through the Dolmah
+Bagcheh Palace."</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus143.jpg" width="500" height="348" alt="THE BREAD DEALERS CONSENTED TO BE KODAKED."
+title="THE BREAD DEALERS CONSENTED TO BE KODAKED." />
+<span class="caption">THE BREAD DEALERS CONSENTED TO BE KODAKED.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Our steamer had barely anchored when a steam<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_137" id="Page_137">[Pg 137]</a></span>
+yacht flying the emblem of Turkey, a red flag with a
+white crescent and star, appeared alongside. Several
+red-fezzed Turkish officials, on whose green frock coats
+dangled medals and badges, mounted the stairway to
+receive the report of the vessel and examine and visé the
+passports of the passengers. The stewards collected the
+passports and handed them to the Sultan's officers,
+who afterwards returned them stamped in queer-looking
+characters with the official seal of the Turkish government.</p>
+
+<p>"Captain, can you not send us ashore?" requested
+some of the tourists after the evening dinner was over.</p>
+
+<p>"I would gladly send you ashore if I considered it safe
+for you to go," replied the Captain, "but I advise you
+to remain on board. There is little to be seen after
+sunset in this unlighted city. Although the principal
+streets are lighted with gas, many of the streets depend
+upon the moon and stars and so on cloudy nights are
+left in utter darkness. Strangers may with safety
+wander around the city during the day, but it is dangerous
+for them to do so at night. The lower part of the
+city along the wharves is infested with thieves who have
+little regard for the life of an infidel, and who under cover
+of darkness would cut one's throat and cast the body into
+the stream in order to secure a few valuables."</p>
+
+<p>The Captain's advice was taken and the evening was
+delightfully spent on the vessel. The American Consul
+and his wife came on board to meet some friends and
+to welcome all the Americans. Then, according to a
+plan which had been made by the managers of the tour,
+a resident of the city delivered an instructive address on<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_138" id="Page_138">[Pg 138]</a></span>
+the history of Constantinople. The lecturer told of
+Constantine the Great, first Christian emperor and
+founder of the city; of Justinian, the imperial legislator
+and builder, and his empress Theodora, the beautiful
+comedian who became a queen; of the heroic warrior
+Belisarius and his emperor's ingratitude; of the Greek
+girl Irene who rose to supreme power; of the bloody
+religious riots and theological disputes; of the Nicene
+Council and adoption of the Nicene creed; and of the
+pillage of Constantinople by the ruthless Crusaders.
+He told also of the marriage ceremonies, of the art and
+commerce, and of the places of interest about the city.
+His remarks about the former trade and literature of the
+city were most interesting.</p>
+
+<p>"During the earlier centuries of the Eastern Roman
+Empire," said the lecturer, "Constantinople, the capital,
+was a great centre of trade, an exchange market for the
+products of the world. Caravans brought the treasures
+of the East to the storehouses here to be bartered for the
+cargoes of produce which came in ships from the West.
+This exchange brought wealth and prosperity to the
+city. In later centuries the Venetians and Genoese
+succeeded in transferring much of this business to
+Venice and Genoa and the trade of Constantinople
+declined. In modern days steamships and the Suez
+canal have completely changed the route of commerce.</p>
+
+<p>"Constantinople, not only was a centre of trade, but
+in the Twelfth and Thirteenth centuries it was the
+centre of literature. During the dark ages, when the
+study of literature was generally neglected in other
+places, the lamp of learning burned brightly in this city.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_140" id="Page_140">[Pg 140]</a></span>
+Libraries were established and manuscripts accumulated;
+but at the time of the Turkish invasion a multitude of
+the most valuable documents were destroyed. When
+the Renaissance brought new life to the western shores,
+the centre of literature moved to Italy, and printed
+books took the place of manuscripts."</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus146.jpg" width="500" height="361" alt="OUR CARRIAGES RATTLED OVER THE PLANK BRIDGE."
+title="OUR CARRIAGES RATTLED OVER THE PLANK BRIDGE." />
+<span class="caption">OUR CARRIAGES RATTLED OVER THE PLANK BRIDGE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>When we thought of the present standing of Turkey
+among the nations of the world, it was difficult to realize
+that for centuries Constantinople was the commercial
+centre and the brilliant capital of the world. It was
+even more difficult to realize that the country which
+now prohibits the importation of foreign books and
+papers was at one time the patron of art, literature, and
+learning, the collector of great libraries of illuminated
+manuscripts, theological discourses, and legal documents.
+But that was centuries ago.</p>
+
+<p>Thursday morning ushered in a bright, clear, cool day.
+We were up early, eager for sight-seeing, and little boats
+soon carried us to the custom house pier on the Galata
+side. Open carriages drawn by wiry Turkish horses
+and driven by Turkish drivers were there in readiness
+to carry us across the Golden Horn to explore the sights
+of Stamboul. As our carriages rattled over the plank
+pontoon bridge with its drawbridge in the center, we
+passed through a crowd of people more varied as to
+nationality and costume than can be seen at almost any
+other place on the globe. The Turks, of course, predominated,
+their nationality being indicated by the
+national head-gear,&mdash;the red fez. The wealthier Turks
+wore the English style of clothing and the red fez. The
+costumes of the other classes varied according to their<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_141" id="Page_141">[Pg 141]</a></span>
+occupation. On the bridge as our driver guided his
+team through the throng, we saw Turkish soldiers in
+blue uniforms and red fez; Moslems wearing a green
+sash around the fez to indicate that they had performed
+a pilgrimage to Mecca; stately-looking bearded Greek
+priests in black robes and peculiar hats; Nubians with
+black glistening skins and tattooed faces; Moslem
+priests with pure white turbans, and Moslem priests
+with high green turbans; Russian or Hungarian peasants
+with coats of sheep skin, the fleecy sides of which were<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_142" id="Page_142">[Pg 142]</a></span>
+turned inward; Dervishes in brown mantles, and high-coned
+brown hats without brims; Hebrews in long
+yellow coats and little curls at the sides of their heads;
+Turks in gold embroidered trousers and jackets and long
+flowing blue sleeves; Turkish women with faces closely
+veiled, and negro women who concealed their features
+behind white veils in the same manner as the Turkish
+women.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus148.jpg" width="500" height="405" alt="A STRUCTURE DIFFERING IN DESIGN FROM ANY OTHER
+CHRISTIAN TEMPLE." title="A STRUCTURE DIFFERING IN DESIGN FROM ANY OTHER
+CHRISTIAN TEMPLE." />
+<span class="caption">A STRUCTURE DIFFERING IN DESIGN FROM ANY OTHER
+CHRISTIAN TEMPLE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>"Those cakes looked so good, I was almost tempted
+to take one off the tray," said one of the occupants of our
+carriage, as a peddler carrying on his head a table filled
+with cakes and pastry passed so closely that his wares
+were within reach.</p>
+
+<p>"Oh, how could you think of doing such a thing,"
+hastily exclaimed her companion, horrified at the
+thought, "we should all be placed in a dungeon and our
+pleasure ended."</p>
+
+<p>Peddlers of dates, bearing their stock of fruit in huge
+baskets on their backs and carrying scales in one hand,
+held up a sample of dates towards us with the other
+hand; dealers in nuts in the same manner carried and
+offered their wares to the passers-by; peddlers of "Turkish
+delight" and other sweetmeats arranged the
+candies on their trays in an attractive manner; and the
+sherbet sellers called attention to the pink liquid in
+large glass bottles suspended on their backs. At each
+end of the bridge were half a dozen toll collectors in long
+white overshirts who stood in line across the way collecting
+the toll of ten paras, or one cent, from each person
+that crossed.</p>
+
+<p>"How clearly that dome and the two minarets stand<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_144" id="Page_144">[Pg 144]</a></span>
+out against the sky," exclaimed one of the party, pointing
+to a great dome and two delicate minarets with tapering
+peaks which rose above the buildings directly in
+front of us on the other side of the bridge.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus150.jpg" width="500" height="295" alt="THIS STREAM FLOWING INTO THE BOSPORUS IS CALLED THE GOLDEN HORN."
+title="THIS STREAM FLOWING INTO THE BOSPORUS IS CALLED THE GOLDEN HORN." />
+<span class="caption">THIS STREAM FLOWING INTO THE BOSPORUS IS CALLED THE GOLDEN HORN.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>"That is the Mosque where the Sultans and their
+families went to prayer when they resided in the Seraglio
+near by. We will not stop at this Mosque but will go
+directly to the Mosque of St. Sophia."</p>
+
+<p>"Professor," said the lady who in Athens had confessed
+her ignorance of history, "please give us some information
+about the church of St. Sophia while we are
+grouped here together in front of the building."</p>
+
+<p>The professor expressed his willingness to do so, provided
+we were willing to take the time to listen.</p>
+
+<p>"In the year 532 A.D.," said he, "Justinian, the
+Emperor of the Eastern Roman Empire, decided to erect
+in Constantinople a church that should be a glory to the
+city and an honor to his name. His desire was to build
+one 'such as since Adam has never been seen,' a structure
+differing in design from any Christian temple previously
+constructed and surpassing in magnificence any temple
+that afterwards might be built. The empire was then
+at the height of its power and glory, and Justinian, in
+emulation of Solomon, made demands on all the countries
+under his dominion for contributions of ivory, cedar,
+gold, silver, precious stones, and the rarest marbles.</p>
+
+<p>"In order to attain his ambitious design, the monarch
+robbed the Temple of the Sun at Baalbek of columns of
+porphyry, despoiled the Temple of Diana of Ephesus of
+its finest pillars, took columns of pure white marble from
+the Temple of Minerva at Athens, and divested the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_145" id="Page_145">[Pg 145]</a></span>
+shrines of Isis and Osiris in Egypt of their choicest
+granite columns. He called upon the quarries of Italy,
+Greece, and the Ægean Isles for marbles of every hue
+produced by them, so that, when completed, the temple
+should contain the most beautiful marbles the world
+could yield, and these he ordered to be highly polished
+and artistically arranged. To hasten the construction,
+ten thousand workmen under the direction of one hundred
+architects were employed, and in less than six years
+the immense structure, 'the great Church of Santa
+Sophia, or Heavenly Wisdom,' one of the most famous
+churches of the world, was ready for dedication.</p>
+
+<p>"The great altar was built of silver and gold, the seven
+chairs of the bishops were plated with silver, the crosses
+and crucifixes were composed of pure gold, and the altar
+cloth and vestments were encrusted with precious stones.
+Jeweled images of saints, sacred paintings of fabulous
+value, and holy relics to be adored by kneeling worshipers,
+were arranged around the walls of the building.
+The huge doors of the temple were made of cedar,
+ivory, amber, and silver; the ceiling glistened with
+golden mosaics; the walls shone with polished marbles:
+and the capitals of the columns were laced with delicate
+carvings inset with mother-of-pearl, silver, and
+precious stones.</p>
+
+<p>"On the day of the dedication of the temple a jubilant
+procession of patriarchs, bishops, priests, and people, in
+admiring wonder, entered the completed building with
+songs and rejoicings. The Emperor, at the head of the
+procession, overcome with pride and joy in the glorious
+consummation of his purpose, threw himself upon the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_146" id="Page_146">[Pg 146]</a></span>
+floor and exultingly exclaimed: 'Glory to God who has
+deemed me worthy to accomplish so great a work. O
+Solomon, I have surpassed thee!'</p>
+
+<p>"In this sanctuary for over nine centuries the people
+worshiped God according to the Christian faith in
+great pomp and with much ceremony. The bishops
+officiated at the golden altar reading from golden lettered
+manuscripts, and were assisted in the service by scores
+of richly robed priests and hundreds of selected musicians,
+while the air was filled with the fragrance of rising
+incense. But during the latter part of the Middle Ages
+while the power and glory of the Roman Empire was
+gradually declining, the rival Mohammedan Turkish
+Empire in Asia was rapidly ascending to a dominant
+position. Finally, in the year 1453 A.D., the Sultan of
+Asiatic Turkey, Muhammed II, determined to obtain
+possession of Constantinople and make the city the
+capital of his empire. His army besieged the decadent
+city and captured it after a struggle of fifty-three days.
+When the Turkish troops entered in triumph they tore
+the emblems of Christianity from their places and, instead
+of the cross of the Christian, they raised the crescent of
+the Moslem.</p>
+
+<p>"In the church of St. Sophia the conquerors tore
+down the golden altar, melted the silver plates, removed
+the images of saints, painted over the sacred pictures,
+and took away the jewels and precious stones, changing
+the interior to suit the simpler worship of the followers
+of Mahomet. The name of the building was changed
+and it was thereafter known as the Mosque of Saint
+Sophia. For four hundred and fifty years the Mosque<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_147" id="Page_147">[Pg 147]</a></span>
+has been in possession of the Turks. Its doors are open
+at all times for Moslems to enter freely; but the entrance
+is carefully guarded to keep Christian or foreign visitors
+from intruding. The latter, however, may gain admission
+by paying an entrance fee of forty cents, and
+removing their shoes at the door or lacing over their
+shoes the loose slippers that are provided for this purpose."</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus154.jpg" width="500" height="461" alt="THREE MEN RAISED THE BURDEN TO HIS SHOULDERS."
+title="THREE MEN RAISED THE BURDEN TO HIS SHOULDERS." />
+<span class="caption">THREE MEN RAISED THE BURDEN TO HIS SHOULDERS.</span>
+</div><p>
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_148" id="Page_148">[Pg 148]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>On the porch of the Mosque we put our feet into the
+loose slippers, a Moslem attendant tied them on as carefully
+as the clumsy things could be tied, and then, accompanied
+by him, we entered the building. The immense
+floor, an acre in size, was covered with handsome
+heavy rugs. As we slid, rather than walked, over the
+soft Turkish carpets, our turbaned guide, with sharp,
+piercing, black eyes, watched carefully to see that our
+slippers did not become unfastened and drop off, and our
+infidel shoes profane the holy enclosure. And when one
+of the visitors laughed within the sacred edifice, the
+attendant's black eyes flashed with anger.</p>
+
+<p>It was not the regular hour for prayer in the mosque,
+but a number of worshipers were devoutly kneeling
+at different places in the interior, with faces turned
+toward a black stone in the south wall, which indicated
+the direction of the holy city of Mecca. Others,
+squatting on their bare heels, were reading or reciting
+in monotonous tones parts of the Koran. There are
+no benches or chairs in the building; Moslem worshipers
+do not require seats while at their devotions. The
+great dome, over one hundred feet in width, rises in
+grandeur one hundred and eighty feet overhead, supported
+by four huge columns each seventy feet in circumference.
+A circle of windows, forty-four in number,
+around the dome illumines the golden mosaics which
+cover the ceiling. A mosaic picture in the dome
+representing the Almighty, has been obliterated by the
+Turks and covered with green linen cloth. A verse
+from the Koran, in gilt Arabic characters almost thirty
+feet long, is painted on this cloth. The sentence, as<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_150" id="Page_150">[Pg 150]</a></span>
+translated, begins: "God is the light of heaven and
+earth," and ends, "God alone sheddeth His light on
+whomsoever He pleaseth."</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 250px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus156.jpg" width="250" height="436" alt="THROUGH THE NARROW STREETS OF THE CITY."
+title="THROUGH THE NARROW STREETS OF THE CITY." />
+<span class="caption">THROUGH THE NARROW STREETS OF THE CITY.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>"If the Moslems believe in the Bible and in God as a
+supreme being, why did they destroy the mosaic representation
+of God on the ceiling?" inquired one of the
+visitors.</p>
+
+<p>"The Moslems do believe in the Bible and in one
+Supreme God," was the reply, "and it was this very
+belief that led them to paint out the picture of God
+and to destroy all the images and paintings of saints;
+for God's command is: 'Thou shalt not make unto thee
+any graven image, or any likeness of anything that is in
+the heaven above, or that is in the earth beneath,
+or that is in the water under the earth. Thou shalt not
+bow down thyself to them.'"</p>
+
+<p>"The Moslems," continued the guide, "regard
+Mahomet as the Prophet of God, and the Koran as
+written by him under the inspiration of God; but they
+do not worship Mahomet or any image or picture of
+him."</p>
+
+<p>We paused to admire the four green marble columns
+taken from the Temple of Diana, and the polished shafts
+brought from the Temple of the Sun, relics of those two
+magnificent cities, Ephesus and Baalbek, of whose
+grandeur nothing now remains but broken stones. We
+gazed upward at the eight immense green shields
+covered with Arabic characters, high above our heads
+on the walls. But we doubted the miraculous healing
+power of a small hole that is always damp in a bronze-covered
+pillar, and hesitated also to accept the tradition<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_151" id="Page_151">[Pg 151]</a></span>
+that the apparent imprint of a bloody hand in the marble
+wall was made by the Sultan Muhammed II when he
+rode into St. Sophia after the capture of the city.</p>
+
+<p>"On Fridays," said the guide, as we stood at the foot
+of the marble steps that led to the elevated pulpit, "the
+priest, clad in a long red robe, reads a prayer for the
+Sultan, and, while doing so, holds in one hand the Koran
+and in the other a drawn sword to indicate that this
+temple was captured from the Christians by force."</p>
+
+<p>"That prayer rug," he continued pointing to a
+beautiful carpet hanging on the wall near by, "was the
+personal prayer rug of the great conqueror Muhammed
+II. There is so much more to be seen," he added,
+"that we could spend the whole day here, but the
+dragoman is beckoning and we must go on."</p>
+
+<p>We shook the slippers from our feet in the porch and
+were driven through narrow streets to the Grand Bazaar.</p>
+
+<p>"The Grand Bazaar," said the guide, "covers several
+acres. It has one hundred entrances. There are
+twelve hundred narrow streets or passages under roof
+within the bazaar and on these streets are four thousand
+little shops."</p>
+
+<p>The Grand Bazaar, we decided, was the enormous
+department store of Stamboul; but we noticed that
+each little shop had its own proprietor. To many of the
+visitors, this Bazaar was the most interesting place in
+Constantinople; for here were found the most tempting
+bargains in Oriental wares, in its narrow passages were
+seen the native people in their most picturesque costumes,
+and in its maze of dimly lighted corridors some tourists
+were lost for awhile and met with novel adventures.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_152" id="Page_152">[Pg 152]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The store of Far-Away-Moses was one of the largest
+and most popular of the shops in the Bazaar and that
+genial trader did a thriving business. There seemed
+to be a magnetic power that drew the guides in the
+direction of certain shops, an unseen influence that
+urged them to recommend certain places, and one of
+these places was Moses' emporium. Some of the ladies
+found that when they slipped away and entered a shop
+without a guide a better bargain could be secured.</p>
+
+<p>The price named for articles in the bazaar shops by
+the fezzed or turbaned dealers was generally three times
+the price that they would accept before losing a sale;
+but much tact was required on the part of the purchaser,
+and much valuable time was occupied in the diplomatic
+struggles between the acute Yankees and clever Moslems.
+When, however, the battle was won and the
+desired article secured at one-half or one-third the price
+at first demanded, the joy of the purchaser was doubled.
+The person, who, after an hour's dickering, bought a
+bronze ornament for twenty piasters, or one dollar of
+American money, was just as happy over the bargain
+as the one who succeeded in purchasing a magnificent
+silk rug for twenty thousand piasters. The money
+drawers of the Moslem traders were swollen with their
+contents but their shelves were less crowded when the
+Americans left the bazaar.</p>
+
+<p>When we returned to the vessel we found that during
+our absence the decks had been converted into a rival
+bazaar. The tourists who had failed to obtain souvenirs
+had another opportunity to buy them; for here were
+displayed silk rugs ranging in price from three thousand<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_153" id="Page_153">[Pg 153]</a></span>
+piasters downward, exquisite embroideries, rare silks,
+delicate fans, gold-laced shawls, fragrant attar of roses,
+and a multitude of articles in bronze, silver, and gold.</p>
+
+<p>"How restful it is to recline lazily in our comfortable
+steamer chairs rolled up in a rug, dreaming or talking
+over the events of the day, without any cares or worries
+to disturb our thoughts," remarked one of our friends
+as we sat upon the deck in the later evening hours
+watching the glimmering lights on the shore.</p>
+
+<p>"Yes," said another, "there seems to be nothing to
+disturb the serenity of the night; even the distant
+barking of the dogs appears to be in harmony with the
+soft lapping of the waves against the vessel. I feel that
+I shall rest to-night in my berth, as Shakespeare says,
+in a 'sleep that knits the ravel'd sleeve of care,' after the
+exertion of a full day of sight-seeing."<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_154" id="Page_154">[Pg 154]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_IX" id="CHAPTER_IX"></a>CHAPTER IX.</h2>
+
+<p class="center">THE SELAMLIK AND THE TREASURY.</p>
+
+
+<p>One dark night in the faraway past, so the story
+runs, the barking of dogs in the outskirts of Constantinople
+wakened the sleeping garrison in the
+city, warning them of the approach of a crafty foe who
+sought to surprise and capture the place. At the same
+time, the young moon, coming out from under a cloud,
+revealed the position of the enemy. The barking of the
+dogs and the light of the crescent moon enabled the garrison
+to frustrate the designs of their foes and save the
+capital from capture. Since then the nightly howlings
+of the dogs have been tolerated by the Turkish people
+and the crescent has had a place of honor on the Turkish
+banner. To kill a dog is an unpardonable offense.
+The dogs, however, are not well fed, well groomed pets,
+fondled, kissed, collared, and blanketed, as in some
+other countries; but are ownerless, homeless creatures
+roaming at night in great numbers through the streets
+and sleeping by day on the thoroughfares and sidewalks
+regardless of passers-by. The people step over or go
+around the sleeping animals and do not disturb them.
+The dogs seem to know their privileges, for they will not
+move out of the way.</p>
+
+<p>The city is noted for its dogs, not on account of their
+beauty or breed, for they are a disreputable lot of mongrel
+curs and bear the marks of many nightly brawls,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_156" id="Page_156">[Pg 156]</a></span>
+but on account of the legions of them and their usefulness
+as scavengers. At nightfall the residents of Stamboul
+empty their garbage cans in the streets and the dogs,
+howling and fighting, dispose of every scrap before daylight.
+When a Turk desires to express the utmost
+contempt for a person he calls him a dog.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus162.jpg" width="500" height="290" alt="THE DOG FIGHT HAD JUST ENDED."
+title="THE DOG FIGHT HAD JUST ENDED." />
+<span class="caption">THE DOG FIGHT HAD JUST ENDED.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>"If you wish to avoid trouble while in this city,"
+cautioned the dragoman, "neither disturb a sleeping dog
+in the highways,&mdash;for the dog will resent the interference
+with his slumbers,&mdash;nor call a Turk a dog, for the
+anger of a Turk thus reviled is uncontrollable until the
+offender who called him by that vilest of epithets is
+severely punished."</p>
+
+<p>A drive of one and a half miles along the Grand Rue
+de Galata, one of the wider thoroughfares in Galata
+parallel to the Bosporus, carried the tourists from the
+custom house pier to the gates of the Dolmah Bagcheh
+Palace. The entrance to the grounds of the palace
+is through a gateway of marble, beautiful in design and
+richly ornamented with elaborate Corinthian columns
+and delicate carvings of garlands, wreaths, and urns.</p>
+
+<p>While we gazed at the carvings, the officer in charge
+of the guard carefully examined our permit. Then the
+massive gates were swung open for our entrance. Within
+the palace we ascended a magnificent wide marble
+staircase, the balusters of which were made of clear
+glass. We admired the intricately carved alabaster
+bath-rooms and wondered if their neatness had ever
+been disturbed. We passed through a multitude of
+richly decorated chambers and salons where every
+article was arranged in perfect order, and walked on<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_157" id="Page_157">[Pg 157]</a></span>
+carpet strips laid for visitors' feet around the beautiful
+ball-room, not daring to tread on the highly polished
+hard-wood floor. Every apartment of the palace was
+immaculate, and resplendent in marble, porcelain, inlaid
+woods, and golden mosaics. The largest mirror in the
+world reflected the passers-by and costly paintings
+attracted the eyes of the visitors. The dark green malachite
+and the rich blue lapis lazuli harmonized pleasingly
+with yellow gold and white marble. And yet this
+grand show palace is unoccupied except by the hundreds
+of care-takers required to keep it in order. Its quiet
+is disturbed only by sight-seers who pay for the privilege
+of inspecting the stately apartments, and, on rare
+occasions, by imperial receptions which are held in the
+throne room. This immense apartment surpasses all
+the others in the elegance of its adornment. The dome
+overhead and the walls and the Corinthian columns
+which surround the room are richly decorated with
+oriental designs in white and gold. From the centre
+of the dome hangs a crystal chandelier noted for its size
+and beauty.</p>
+
+<p>"In this throne room," said the guide, "five thousand
+persons can stand. On the day after the close of the
+Fast of Ramazan, which is the first day of the Feast
+of Bairam, the Sultan drives here from Yildiz Palace,
+along a road lined with soldiers, and holds a State
+reception. Several thousand of the nobility assemble
+in this room and the Sultan, seated on that crimson
+and gold sofa, receives the homage of his officials. The
+generals of the army in gorgeous uniforms, the heads
+of the religious orders, holy men, and state officials<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_158" id="Page_158">[Pg 158]</a></span>
+approach according to their rank and make their obeisance
+to his Imperial Majesty. They reverently kiss
+the hem of his Majesty's garment, press the hem to their
+foreheads as a seal of their declaration of loyalty to his
+person, and then retire backward from his presence.
+During the reception every face in the assembly is
+turned toward the Sultan. To turn one's back to his
+Majesty, even for a moment, is unpardonable. That
+day after Ramazan is a great day in the city; cannons
+thunder, the bands play, the mosques are illuminated
+at night, and the people feast and rejoice."</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus165.jpg" width="500" height="390" alt="A TEAM OF GREAT HORNED OXEN." title="" />
+<span class="caption">A TEAM OF GREAT HORNED OXEN.</span>
+</div><p>
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_159" id="Page_159">[Pg 159]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>"What is the Fast of Ramazan and when does it
+occur?"</p>
+
+<p>"The Fast of Ramazan," replied the guide, "is kept
+through the whole month of Ramazan, which corresponds
+to your month of September. For thirty days
+the Moslems do not eat bread nor drink water during
+the hours between sunrise and sunset. After sunset
+they may refresh themselves. The Prophet commanded
+that one specially named day in the month of Ramazan
+should be kept as a fast day; but the date of that particular
+day was somehow lost, and now, in order to make
+sure of keeping the fast on the day appointed, the Moslems
+keep every day in that month as a fast day. The
+Feast of Bairam immediately follows the end of the
+fasting. This festival consists of three days of feasting
+and festivities."</p>
+
+<p>Friday is the Mohammedan Sabbath, but we could
+not see that it made much difference in the traffic of the
+city. We asked the guide if the Turkish bazaars would
+be closed.</p>
+
+<p>"No," he replied, "but more of the faithful attend
+mosque on Friday than on other days, and on Friday
+each week the Sultan goes to his special mosque with
+great ceremony."</p>
+
+<p>The Sultan's weekly visit to prayer is called the Selamlik
+or Sultan's Procession to Mosque. Our guide obtained
+a good position for our carriage in an open square
+near the mosque from which to see the procession. The
+parade was not to occur until one o'clock, but in order
+to secure the place we were there at eleven. The time
+of waiting was not tiresome as there was much of interest<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_160" id="Page_160">[Pg 160]</a></span>
+going on around us all the time. Carriages of other
+visitors assembled in the open square; cabs containing
+invited dignitaries rolled up to the ruler's palace, which
+was within sight about one block away; guards drove
+the crowds from the streets; regiments of red-fezzed
+infantry tramped by and formed in lines along the street
+between the palace and the mosque; mounted lancers
+with flying pennons trotted to their positions; and the
+bands took their place near the palace. Uniformed
+policemen and spies in plain clothes circulated among
+the carriages and sight-seers, watching closely for suspicious
+characters, and listening to remarks made by
+visitors. We were advised by our dragoman not to
+mention the name of the Sultan.</p>
+
+<p>"How the Turks do enjoy their coffee," said an occupant
+of our carriage, calling attention to a group
+squatting on the ground with cups in hand.</p>
+
+<p>Near our carriage a Turk was making coffee on a
+portable stove and selling the beverage to thirsty
+customers; an itinerant barber placed his portable stool
+beside our carriage wheel, opened his kit of tools and was
+soon busy lathering and shaving dusky faces; a water
+peddler with his jar on his back played a tune on tumblers
+by rubbing them with his fingers; a cake peddler's
+table was upset by passing dragoons and he mournfully
+picked up the fragments. The trays of the Turkish
+peddlers of candies and cakes were clean and the articles
+offered appeared fresh and appetizing. We
+yielded to temptation and bought some "Turkish delight"
+and some light flaky biscuit, and, after eating
+the dainties, wished for more.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_161" id="Page_161">[Pg 161]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus168.jpg" width="500" height="292" alt="THE TIME OF WAITING WAS NOT TIRESOME."
+title="THE TIME OF WAITING WAS NOT TIRESOME." />
+<span class="caption">THE TIME OF WAITING WAS NOT TIRESOME.</span>
+</div><p>
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_162" id="Page_162">[Pg 162]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>"It is nearly one o'clock," said the guide looking at
+his watch.</p>
+
+<p>The street cleaners were hastily giving a final polish
+to the roadway over which the Sultan would drive between
+the lines of soldiers. A dozen carts filled with
+clean sand that had been standing near us were hurried
+up the hill and the white sand was spread over the
+Sultan's path. The bands ceased playing; the soldiers
+stood at attention; the Muezzin called to prayer; a
+trumpet sounded from the gates; and from the palace
+on the hill carriages emerged containing the veiled wives
+of the ruler attended by black eunuchs on horseback.
+A long line of military officers in handsome uniforms
+followed on foot; then a shout arose from the assembled
+troops, and a carriage appeared drawn by a very handsome
+pair of horses in gold-mounted harness. In the
+carriage the Sultan sat alone. The huzzas of the troops
+continued until his Majesty entered the mosque. Then
+all was silent, for the Sultan was at his prayers alone.
+His wives and his officials had been left at the entrance.
+No person was permitted to enter. The Iman, or priest
+in charge, and the Sultan were the only occupants of the
+mosque.</p>
+
+<p>Without waiting for the ruler's return the visitors
+hastened away, the carriages raising such a cloud of dust
+that it was difficult to see across the road. A hasty
+luncheon in a Pera restaurant followed, and then we
+turned toward Stamboul. As we drove again across
+the Galata bridge through the ever interesting throng
+of humanity that crowds over it, our attention was called
+to the manner in which merchandise is conveyed through<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_163" id="Page_163">[Pg 163]</a></span>
+the narrow streets of the city. Wagons are rarely used,
+but men carry the merchandise on their backs and
+shoulders. These men passed us laden with immense
+bales of hides, huge bundles of carpets and rugs, large
+boxes of dry-goods, great crates of fruits or vegetables,
+piles of trunks, barrels
+and sacks of groceries, and cans
+of oil. The ponderous
+burdens
+were heaped upon
+wooden frames fitted
+to the backs
+and strapped to
+the shoulders of
+the carriers. When
+the load was too
+heavy for one man
+to carry, it was
+suspended on poles
+and carried by two
+or more of the
+bearers.</p>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 250px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus170.jpg" width="250" height="348" alt="&quot;WHAT A CONTRAST,&quot; SHE SAID."
+title="&quot;WHAT A CONTRAST,&quot; SHE SAID." />
+<span class="caption">&quot;WHAT A CONTRAST,&quot; SHE SAID.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>A high wall surrounds
+the old Seraglio grounds.
+Before visitors may enter a permit must be obtained.
+A permit including the necessary fees to the keepers
+costs small parties of visitors about five dollars each; the
+permit and fees for the Molkte party, so it was rumored,
+cost the managers two hundred dollars. The captain<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_164" id="Page_164">[Pg 164]</a></span>
+of the guard at the gate scrutinized our permit and kept
+us waiting until an official was summoned to act as our
+conductor. When we arrived at the Treasury building
+the huge door was opened with impressive ceremony and
+the uniformed officials kept the tourists under close
+surveillance while they were within.</p>
+
+<p>Among the many curiosities that attracted attention
+in the first room of the Treasury was a throne captured
+from one of the Shahs of Persia four hundred years ago.
+This Persian throne is made of beaten gold inlaid with
+rubies and emeralds, and is said to be of fabulous value.
+Arranged in glass cases in another room a row of figures
+represents the Sultans of past ages clothed in the royal
+attire worn by them. The white turbans of these
+effigies are ablaze with jewels. The mantles which
+cover them are of Oriental brocade wrought in gold and
+silver patterns, and the belts, swords, and daggers are
+adorned with sparkling gems. A suit of chain armor
+worn by one of the Sultans of olden times is ornamented
+with gold and diamonds. On the second floor of the
+Treasury, to which we ascended by a narrow stairway,
+the most carefully guarded treasure is a throne used
+by a former Turkish ruler. This Turkish throne is
+made of precious wood inlaid with tortoise shell, mother
+of pearl, and gold and silver traceries, and is set with
+turquoises. A canopy overspreads the throne, and
+beneath the canopy, suspended by a golden cord, hangs
+an enormous pear-shaped emerald. In cases around the
+various rooms, crowns, sceptres, simitars, swords, daggers,
+and talismans, scintillate with rubies, emeralds,
+and diamonds.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_165" id="Page_165">[Pg 165]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>"Many of the highly valued treasures stored in these
+rooms," said our friend, the professor, "are trophies of
+the times when Crusader knight, Persian prince, and
+Saracen warrior went forth to battle arrayed in costly
+apparel, and encamped under silken canopies or in
+tents of cloth of gold. Then jeweled balls suspended
+from golden cords adorned the tent poles of the warriors,
+and luxury and opulence abounded underneath the canopies.
+The royalty of kings and princes moved with
+them to the field of war. Under pavilions of Oriental
+weave, silken carpets were spread over the turf for royal
+feet to tread, and thrones erected from which the sovereigns
+issued their commands. Retinues of retainers
+rendered obeisance and executed the mandates of their
+lords. Caravans of camels laden with robes of royalty
+and chests of treasure moved from camp to camp.</p>
+
+<p>"Knights and warriors vied with each other in the
+splendor of their equipage. The trappings of their war
+steeds were embroidered in silk and gold; the breastplates
+and helmets which protected their bodies were
+embossed with silver or traced with gold; the scabbards
+and hilts of their weapons were encrusted with precious
+stones; and their mantles were clasped with fastenings
+and buckles adorned with jewels. In battle the body
+of a dead knight gave much booty to the slayer; the
+capture of a canopy enriched the captors; and the defeat
+of an army and seizure of its camp gave to the victors
+a train of spoils.</p>
+
+<p>"For several centuries, the Turkish empire was
+dominant in the East and its armies victorious in the
+field. It was during these centuries of power that the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_166" id="Page_166">[Pg 166]</a></span>
+Moslem rulers gathered the great accumulation of
+trophies and spoils of war, valued at untold millions,
+which we find stored in the rooms of this marble edifice."</p>
+
+<p>After leaving the Treasury we were led by the official
+conductor past the building in which the mantle, sword,
+and green banner of the great founder of Mohammedanism
+are treasured. These personal relics of the Prophet
+are considered by the Moslems too sacred to be gazed
+upon by infidel eyes.</p>
+
+<p>We tarried awhile in the Bagdad Kiosk, a white
+marble palace noted for its interior wall decoration of
+blue tiling, beautiful doors inlaid with mother of pearl,
+and handsome furniture inlaid with inscriptions of silver,
+and thence proceeded to a marble pavilion in which, as
+guests of the absent Sultan, we partook of refreshments.
+These refreshments, consisting of Turkish coffee in tiny
+cups and Turkish preserves on small plates, were
+brought to us by the servants of the Sultan. We stood
+awhile on the portico in the rear of the pavilion and
+admired the magnificent view of the harbor with its
+shipping, and the surrounding shores covered with
+buildings.</p>
+
+<p>Leaving the portico and its panoramic view with regret,
+we turned to the Museum of Antiquities, intending
+to inspect hastily the relics of ancient times which it
+contains. The collection, however, proved to be much
+more interesting than we had expected, so, instead of
+hurriedly passing through the building, we lingered
+around the sarcophagi and studied the hunting and
+battle scenes which were exquisitely carved on the
+polished marble of the exteriors of the old stone coffins.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_168" id="Page_168">[Pg 168]</a></span>
+The most beautiful of these sarcophagi, twenty-one in
+number, have been discovered within the past thirty
+or forty years at Sidon in Syria. The tireless archæologists,
+eager in pursuit of knowledge of the past,
+found and opened the graves in which the dead kings
+of Sidon had quietly rested for thousands of years; then
+disinterring the heavy stone caskets they brought them
+to Constantinople to be placed on exhibition.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus174.jpg" width="500" height="296" alt="THE STREET CARS IN PERA ARE DOUBLE-DECKED."
+title="THE STREET CARS IN PERA ARE DOUBLE-DECKED." />
+<span class="caption">THE STREET CARS IN PERA ARE DOUBLE-DECKED.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>These sarcophagi are stone caskets of great size and
+weight composed of two pieces, the chest and lid. The
+chest is hewn out of one solid block of marble and the
+lid of another. The sarcophagi range from ten to twelve
+feet in length, from five to six feet in width, and from
+six to eight feet in height. One of the stone coffins, made
+of black Egyptian marble and named the Tabnith, contained,
+when found, the dried up mummy of an ancient
+king, Tabnith, who lived four centuries before the time
+of Christ. An inscription on this in Egyptian hieroglyphics
+pronounced a curse upon the man who should despoil
+the tomb, but the dreadful warning was not deciphered
+until the casket reached the Museum. Another
+sarcophagus, called the Satrap's, cut out of Parian
+marble, somewhat resembles a Grecian temple in form.
+On the sides are depicted, in marble carvings, a funeral
+banquet, a governor on his throne, a hunting scene with
+a lion at bay, a frightened horse dragging its dismounted
+rider, and many other similar scenes.</p>
+
+<p>"But this, in my opinion, is the most attractive
+casket in the collection," said the professor as we came
+to one named the Weepers, on the marble sides of which
+a master sculptor of ancient times had carved eighteen<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_170" id="Page_170">[Pg 170]</a></span>
+female forms. "Notice how each figure is portrayed in
+a different graceful attitude of mourning and how each
+is a picture of sorrow. And notice, too, the exquisite
+workmanship of the frieze with its ornamentation of a
+hundred small figures in hunting scenes."</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus176.jpg" width="500" height="296" alt="WE FED THE PIGEONS AT THE PIGEON MOSQUE."
+title="WE FED THE PIGEONS AT THE PIGEON MOSQUE." />
+<span class="caption">WE FED THE PIGEONS AT THE PIGEON MOSQUE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Near to the Weepers is the sarcophagus known as the
+Alexander, the most famous in the collection, by many
+considered the most beautiful in the world, and in the
+opinion expressed by the American Consul in Constantinople,
+"worth crossing the ocean to see." The sculptures
+on this represent a battle between Greeks and
+Persians with many figures and incidents of battle, and
+elaborate hunting scenes with many details delicately
+worked out. These four sarcophagi, and the one named
+the Lycian on which Amazons in four horse chariots
+hunting lions are delineated, attracted the most attention
+from the tourists, but there were scores of other
+sarcophagi in the collection almost as interesting.</p>
+
+<p>In another part of the Museum, called the China
+Pavilion, the noted stone tablet from the Temple of
+Jerusalem was on exhibition. This tablet, discovered
+at Jerusalem in the year 1871, originally stood in the
+Temple enclosure to mark the limit which Gentiles were
+not allowed to pass. The Greek inscription on the
+tablet is translated as follows:</p>
+
+<p>"No Gentile may pass beyond the railing into the
+court round the Temple; he who is caught trespassing
+will bring death upon himself."</p>
+
+<p>Statues, pottery, porcelain, jewels, and antiquities of
+various kinds were hurriedly passed by until an exclamation
+of one of the ladies caused us to pause.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_171" id="Page_171">[Pg 171]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>"Look at his eyes," she said, pointing to a bronze
+statue of Jupiter. "Did you ever see any eyes like that
+in a statue?"</p>
+
+<p>The eyes of the god were represented by two bright
+rubies which gave them a very peculiar expression.
+This room contained many exquisite pieces of bronze
+work; one representing Hercules was particularly fine
+in execution.</p>
+
+<p>"We will stop now to view the Hippodrome," said
+the guide, after driving a short distance from the Museum.</p>
+
+<p>"But where is the Hippodrome?" inquired a tourist
+as we descended from the carriages in a long open square.</p>
+
+<p>"Alas! the building is no more," sadly replied the
+guide. "This square is a part of the ground on which it
+stood. The space was originally very long and wide,
+but that great Mosque of Ahmed and other buildings
+now occupy a large portion of the old circus grounds.</p>
+
+<p>"The ancient Hippodrome was an oblong enclosure
+fourteen hundred feet long and four hundred feet wide,
+surrounded by magnificent porticos adorned with statues
+of marble and bronze, and had a seating capacity of
+eighty thousand. It was used for chariot races, athletic
+sports, and bloody gladiatorial combats. Sometimes the
+seats were crowded with people, now assembled to glory
+in the triumphal procession of a returning conqueror,
+now to gloat over the burning of heretics and criminals
+who had been condemned to death by the flames.</p>
+
+<p>"That high red granite obelisk covered with hieroglyphics
+at the end of the square is called the Obelisk
+of Theodosius the Great. It was originally erected in
+the Temple of the Sun in Egypt in 1600 B.C. by a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_172" id="Page_172">[Pg 172]</a></span>
+haughty king who inscribed on the stone a statement
+that he had 'conquered the whole world,' and that his
+'royalty was as firm as that of the gods in the sky.' For
+two thousand years the obelisk remained in Heliopolis
+as a memorial of its builder, Thotmes III, but for the
+past fifteen hundred years it has stood here as a monument
+to the Emperor Theodosius, who brought it from
+Egypt as a trophy. In order that he might not be forgotten,
+the Emperor caused a representation of himself
+surrounded by courtiers, guards, and dancing girls to
+be carved on the base of the obelisk. These sculptures,
+as you see, are in good condition. The bronze 'Serpent
+Column' in the centre of the square, representing three
+serpents coiled around each other, once supported the
+tripod used in the ceremonial services of the Pythian
+oracle at Delphi."</p>
+
+<p>When the guide had finished his remarks, our friend,
+the professor, stepped forward and said: "Some of the
+tourists may not be familiar with the story of the horses
+that lived as long and traveled as far as did the 'Wandering
+Jew' in Eugene Sue's well known romance. The
+conductor has requested me to relate the story."</p>
+
+<p>"In some ancient time before the Christian era, a
+Roman conqueror found in an Oriental city four magnificent
+horses that pleased him. He took them to
+Rome to grace his triumph. Centuries later the
+covetous Emperor Constantine brought these same
+horses from Rome to Constantinople and stood them
+here to add glory to the splendor of his Hippodrome.
+For nine hundred years the horses remained undisturbed;
+then ruthless Christian Crusaders carried them<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_173" id="Page_173">[Pg 173]</a></span>
+with other spoils to Venice. A long rest at Venice
+succeeded until the ambitious Bonaparte drew them
+away to beautify his famous Capitol. After the downfall
+of Napoleon the prayers of the Venetians were
+effectual in bringing the horses away from Paris, and now
+these gilded
+bronze travelers,
+that
+were coveted
+and prized by
+great rulers of
+the world,
+stand in front
+of the Church
+of San Marco
+in the city of
+Venice."</p>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 250px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus180.jpg" width="250" height="301" alt="WAGONS ARE RARELY USED, MEN CARRY
+MERCHANDISE." title="WAGONS ARE RARELY USED, MEN CARRY
+MERCHANDISE." />
+<span class="caption">WAGONS ARE RARELY USED, MEN CARRY
+MERCHANDISE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>As the professor
+ceased
+speaking, a
+clear penetrating
+voice
+was heard
+from overhead
+crying:</p>
+
+<p>"Al-la-hu,
+Ak-bar! Al-la-hu, Ak-bar!" uttering each syllable distinctly.</p>
+
+<p>It was the Muezzin calling the people to prayer.
+Looking up we saw him on a little balcony near the
+summit of a minaret which stood within the enclosure<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_174" id="Page_174">[Pg 174]</a></span>
+of the adjoining Mosque of Ahmed. Then he disappeared
+and we heard more faintly his call from the
+farther side of the balcony. It is the Muezzin's duty to
+repeat his calls from the four sides of the minaret, to
+north, east, south, and west. His words were interpreted
+for us: "God is great," repeated four times on
+each side of the minaret.</p>
+
+<p>Faithful Moslems on hearing the call repeated his
+words.</p>
+
+<p>"There is no God but God," he called again, reciting
+it twice.</p>
+
+<p>His hearers repeated this declaration.</p>
+
+<p>"Mohammed is the prophet of God."</p>
+
+<p>The people responded in the same words.</p>
+
+<p>"Come to prayer."</p>
+
+<p>"I have no power or strength but from God most
+high and great," all true believers replied.</p>
+
+<p>"Come to do good," again the Muezzin called.</p>
+
+<p>"What God wills will be; what he wills not will not
+be," answered the people, all responses being muttered
+in low tones.</p>
+
+<p>"The ringing of bells to call the people to service is
+forbidden," said the guide. "It is written that when
+the Mohammedan meetings were first held in Arabia,
+there was difficulty in gathering the people together and
+propositions were made to 'Ring a bell as the Christians
+do,' and to 'Blow the trumpets as do the Jews;' but
+Omar cried, 'What! is there not a man among you who
+can call to prayer?' The prophet then said, 'O Billal!
+stand and make the call to prayer.' Since then the
+melodious voices of the trained Muezzins five times each<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_175" id="Page_175">[Pg 175]</a></span>
+day summon the Moslems to prayer, and the tall graceful
+minarets which rise above the surrounding buildings
+were erected so that the voices could ring out over the
+city."</p>
+
+<p>We followed the faithful into the mosque, after paying
+our fees and donning the slippers, and stood quietly
+in the rear of the great auditorium. The interior was
+brightened by beautiful blue and white tiling which
+lined the arches overhead and covered the immense
+piers that supported the roof. Inside the mosque,
+near the entrance, water was running from spigots into
+stone basins. The Moslems stopped at the basins and
+washed their hands and feet. Some of the better dressed
+worshipers appeared to have slippers inside their shoes
+and went through the motion of washing the feet,
+but the poorer classes used the water to cleanse their
+feet, and then walked forward barefooted on the rugs.
+Each man,&mdash;for there were no women at the service,&mdash;carried
+his shoes with him and placed them upon a
+board on the floor provided for that purpose.</p>
+
+<p>The Koran, the sacred book, which, as the Moslems
+claim, was revealed to Mahomet by the angel Gabriel
+and was written by Mahomet under inspiration, commands:</p>
+
+<p>"The clothes and person of the worshiper must be
+clean, the place free from all impurity, and the face turned
+toward Mecca." And also:</p>
+
+<p>"O believers! when ye address yourselves to prayer
+wash your hands up to the elbows, and wipe your heads,
+and your feet to the ankles."</p>
+
+<p>The worshipers, scattered around the vast interior,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_176" id="Page_176">[Pg 176]</a></span>
+all facing the black stone in the wall which indicates the
+direction of Mecca, repeated their prayers in low tones.
+At first they stood with hands close at their sides, then
+as they muttered the prescribed formulas the hands were
+raised to the sides of the heads, then with hands clasped
+in front the worshipers remained for a short time in
+devout attention. After bowing several times the
+Moslems knelt on the Oriental rugs continuing the
+muttered supplications and concluded their personal
+devotions by bowing forward on their feet. The Iman,
+or priest, then ascended the pulpit, the worshipers
+formed in lines, and as the priests read the prayers,
+they went through the same movements that they had
+previously made while at their personal devotions.</p>
+
+<p>"Women do not take any part in the public worship
+on the floor of the mosque," said the guide. "The latticed
+galleries are provided for them. There they may
+sit in privacy during the service. The galleries, however,
+are rarely occupied."</p>
+
+<p>The Mosque of Ahmed has six minarets; St. Sophia,
+only four. The minarets, slender, round towers, are
+not attached to the main edifices, but stand separate
+and distinct in the courts surrounding the mosques, with
+some space intervening between mosque and minaret.</p>
+
+<p>Resuming our drive through the very narrow streets
+of Stamboul, which are paved with large rough cobble
+stones once laid in place but now very much out of place,
+we passed many old unpainted frame buildings with
+stove pipes projecting from the windows of the second
+and third floors.</p>
+
+<p>"I do not wish any one ill," said a tourist who at<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_178" id="Page_178">[Pg 178]</a></span>
+home was chief of a city Fire Department, "but I would
+give a ten dollar gold piece if I could see how the fire
+department of this old city manages to control or extinguish
+a conflagration after it has gained headway
+among these tinder boxes. The watchmen on the watch
+towers surely cannot locate a fire and give the alarm
+until they see a smoke or flame arising."</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus184.jpg" width="500" height="290" alt="CAMEL AND DONKEY WERE BEDECKED WITH TRAPPINGS."
+title="CAMEL AND DONKEY WERE BEDECKED WITH TRAPPINGS." />
+<span class="caption">CAMEL AND DONKEY WERE BEDECKED WITH TRAPPINGS.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The fountains of the city were one of the peculiar
+Turkish institutions that attracted the tourists' attention.
+The Koran enjoins all true believers to abstain from
+intoxicants, and to perform regular ablutions before
+prayers; so there are drinking fountains at corners
+where the thirsty assemble to drink from brass cups, and
+washing fountains or basins outside and adjoining the
+mosques, as well as inside these buildings, where Moslems
+were seen washing hands or feet regardless of our
+curious eyes. Some of the drinking fountains are very
+large and beautiful. The fountain erected by Sultan
+Ahmed surpasses all others in grace of proportion and
+beauty of design. This magnificent structure is ornamented
+with carved arabesques, inscriptions in gilt, and
+delicately colored green tile. Above the water tap may
+be seen in Turkish characters the builder's mandate:</p>
+
+<p>"Wayfarer, admire this beautiful work; turn the tap
+in the name of Allah; drink thy fill and bless the
+founder, Ahmed Khan."<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_179" id="Page_179">[Pg 179]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_X" id="CHAPTER_X"></a>CHAPTER X.</h2>
+
+<p class="center">FROM THE BOSPORUS TO PALESTINE.</p>
+
+
+<p>The program posted for Saturday, February twenty-eighth,
+announced that the Moltke would leave
+Constantinople at nine o'clock in the morning for
+a trip to the Black Sea, a distance of thirty-five miles.
+As we sailed up the Bosporus, which narrows and widens,
+twists and turns, a succession of picturesque scenes
+opened up before us. Scattered along the shores, which
+for fifteen or twenty miles beyond Constantinople may
+be considered suburbs of that city, white marble palaces
+of the rulers, summer residences of the foreign ambassadors,
+and villas of the wealthy Turks were seen interspersed
+with modern villages and ruined walls and castles
+of past ages. Pretty frame summer houses, groves
+of dark green cypress, gardens, boat-houses, and
+mosques added interest to the views.</p>
+
+<p>"The sail up the Bosporus reminds me of one taken
+on the Hudson River, but the scenery on the banks is
+Oriental instead of modern," remarked one of the
+tourists.</p>
+
+<p>"The old castles and ruined walls, and the legends connected
+with them, suggest the Rhine," commented
+another.</p>
+
+<p>At the water's edge on the Asiatic side, a few miles
+from the city, we saw the beautiful white marble Beylerbey
+Palace, built in the year 1866 by Abdul-Aziz,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_180" id="Page_180">[Pg 180]</a></span>
+the predecessor of the present Sultan, as a residence for
+his harem. For their pleasure he surrounded the palace
+with groves and gardens and established a menagerie in
+the grounds. About eight miles from the city all eyes
+were turned toward a hill on the European shore, where,
+above a cluster of buildings, the Stars and Stripes
+floated in the breeze.</p>
+
+<p>"That is the American College, which is doing good
+work in Turkey. It was founded by Mr. A. Robert
+of New York, and is known as the 'Robert College,'"
+said the guide.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus187.jpg" width="500" height="218" alt="THE TURKISH STUDENTS WAVED HATS AND FLAGS."
+title="THE TURKISH STUDENTS WAVED HATS AND FLAGS." />
+<span class="caption">THE TURKISH STUDENTS WAVED HATS AND FLAGS.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>As our steamer passed the college, the Turkish
+students from roof, windows, and campus waved hats,
+handkerchiefs, and flags, and cheered energetically,
+and the tourists waved to them in return. Just beyond
+the college we passed an old town surrounded by ancient
+towers and time-worn walls.</p>
+
+<p>"This ancient stronghold," said the guide, "was<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_182" id="Page_182">[Pg 182]</a></span>
+known as the Citadel of Europe. The fortress commanded
+the Strait and enabled the Sultans of four centuries
+ago to levy toll on all passing vessels. At this
+place, where the Bosporus is only about half a mile wide,
+the Persian ruler, Darius, with his army crossed on a
+bridge of boats to invade Greece. Here also the
+Crusaders crossed on their way to free the Holy Land
+from the clutch of the Saracens."</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus188.jpg" width="500" height="282" alt="LEVIED TOLL ON ALL PASSING VESSELS."
+title="LEVIED TOLL ON ALL PASSING VESSELS." />
+<span class="caption">LEVIED TOLL ON ALL PASSING VESSELS.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The Moltke sailed into the Black Sea merely far enough
+to sweep around in a wide circle and then, returning
+through the Bosporus, passed by Constantinople and
+entered the Sea of Marmora.</p>
+
+<p>"It seems like parting with a dear old friend," said a
+tourist as we looked back on the fading domes and
+waved farewell to mosque and minaret. "We have seen
+so much of the city in so short a time. Every hour has
+been used to the best advantage in the Turkish capital."</p>
+
+<p>Sunday, March first, was not to be a day of rest for the
+tourists; for the Moltke had arrived at Smyrna at daylight
+and was to remain in the harbor of that city only
+until dark.</p>
+
+<p>The principal reason for a day's stay at Smyrna was to
+give an opportunity for an excursion by train to the site
+of ancient Ephesus. Many of the tourists took this trip
+to see the few scattered ruins that mark the place where
+once stood the magnificent Temple of Diana. The
+clergymen of the party desired to view the place where
+the Apostle Paul had fought in the arena with wild
+beasts, and where Demetrius and his fellow silversmiths
+had led the rioters against this Apostle whose preaching
+interfered with the sales of silver shrines for Diana.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_183" id="Page_183">[Pg 183]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Other tourists, who did not take the excursion to
+Ephesus, explored the narrow, badly-paved streets of
+Smyrna, and visited the bazaars. This city would have
+seemed more interesting to us but for our previous
+visit to the more picturesque Constantinople. In a
+crowded street we encountered a flock of turkeys driven
+by a native. The turkeys appeared to understand the
+driver's commands and were more easily guided by a
+touch of his long switch than would be a flock of
+sheep passing through a street in an American city.</p>
+
+<p>Setting sail again, we passed late in the evening the
+island of Patmos, where Saint John wrote the book
+of Revelations, and on Monday morning we saw at a
+distance the island of Rhodes, noted for its historic
+defense by the Knights of Malta. About nine o'clock
+Tuesday morning the Moltke anchored in the Bay of
+St. George some distance from the shore. On the
+surrounding hill slopes rose the city of Beyrout. Fresh-looking
+white and yellow tinted buildings, red-tiled
+roofs, and a background of green groves and orchards
+interspersed with white villas, gave the city an appearance
+of newness. The whole scene, with the snow-capped
+Mountains of Lebanon beyond, presented a
+beautiful picture to the eye.</p>
+
+<p>"Beyrout has a population of 120,000, and is a prosperous,
+growing city," said one of the managers of the
+tour. "It is a centre of missionary work, and has
+American and German colleges. The old streets are
+narrow, as are all old streets in Eastern towns; but
+they are clean. The newer streets are of modern width.
+Educational advantages, foreign enterprise, and Euro<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_184" id="Page_184">[Pg 184]</a></span>pean
+mercantile firms have infused new life into the
+native population."</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus191.jpg" width="500" height="348" alt="LADEN WITH HUGE TIMBERS."
+title="LADEN WITH HUGE TIMBERS" />
+<span class="caption">LADEN WITH HUGE TIMBERS.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Madame Barakat, a native of Syria, and a well-known
+lecturer and Bible reader, had very kindly given us
+letters of introduction to her Syrian relatives in Beyrout.
+Among these were Mr. Sarkis, a highly respected gentleman
+who had been honored by the Sultan with decorations
+for services to his country, and who was also an
+author and editor of a daily newspaper; and Mr. Sabra,
+his assistant, a tall, fine-looking man. Another was the
+Rev. Mr. Zurub, pastor of the Congregational Church.
+The three gentlemen were able to converse in English
+as fluently as in their own tongue.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_185" id="Page_185">[Pg 185]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus192a.jpg" width="500" height="139" alt="I. SCATTERED RUINS OF EPHESUS."
+title="I. SCATTERED RUINS OF EPHESUS." />
+<span class="caption">I. SCATTERED RUINS OF EPHESUS.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus192b.jpg" width="500" height="144" alt="II. WHERE ONCE STOOD THE TEMPLE OF DIANA."
+title="II. WHERE ONCE STOOD THE TEMPLE OF DIANA." />
+<span class="caption">II. WHERE ONCE STOOD THE TEMPLE OF DIANA.</span>
+</div>
+<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_186" id="Page_186">[Pg 186]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>We were very cordially received by Mr. Sarkis, and,
+after meeting and conversing with the other gentlemen,
+were shown through their printing house, where Syrian
+type-setters were setting type to print Arabic letters
+that looked like shorthand characters, and Jewish girls
+were employed binding pamphlets. Our names were
+given to the printer, and in a few minutes he presented
+us with visiting cards containing the names in Arabic
+letters, thus:</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 200px;">
+<img src="images/illus193.jpg" width="200" height="57" alt="Arabic script" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<p>"Let us visit a candy factory while waiting for the
+carriages I have ordered," said Mr. Sabra. "I know
+that the ladies are fond of sweetmeats and I can guarantee
+these to be perfectly pure. We think that our
+candies are delicious," he added as we entered the
+factory, and the ladies agreed with him after eating some
+of the sweets.</p>
+
+<p>The Syrians take pride in their city, in its factories,
+its hospitals, its seminaries and colleges, its progressive
+business spirit, and the beauty of its suburbs. We
+visited one of the silk factories where hundreds of
+Syrian girls were engaged in unwinding the cocoons of
+delicate gossamer that had been tediously spun and
+wound by the silk worms among the leaves of the mulberry
+trees in the great orchards on the hillsides.</p>
+
+<p>"On the slope of yonder mountain we have a villa in
+which we spend the hot summer months," said Mr.
+Sabra, pointing to the distant mountains as we reached
+an elevation from which a broad view was obtained.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_187" id="Page_187">[Pg 187]</a></span>
+"If there had been time I would have taken you there to
+see one of the most beautiful views in Syria."</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus194.jpg" width="500" height="442" alt="CACTI IN BEYROUT MADE AN IMPENETRABLE FENCE."
+title="CACTI IN BEYROUT MADE AN IMPENETRABLE FENCE." />
+<span class="caption">CACTI IN BEYROUT MADE AN IMPENETRABLE FENCE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>"The landscape is magnificent as seen from here,"
+we replied. The fruitful valley lay before us, beyond
+rose the verdant hills, and above all towered the stately
+mountains of Lebanon. Villages, hamlets, villas, exuberant
+gardens, orchards of spreading mulberry trees,
+graceful palms, fig, lemon, and orange trees enhanced
+the beauty of the scene.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_188" id="Page_188">[Pg 188]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>"Our colleges and schools," said Mr. Sarkis, "are
+equal to those of a European city. Our people are
+becoming an educated people; almost all of the younger
+generation can read and write. My daughters have been
+educated in the American Seminary and can converse
+fluently in French, German, and English, as well as in
+Arabic."</p>
+
+<p>In a narrow thoroughfare we passed horses laden
+with long boards strapped lengthwise on their backs,
+and camels laden with huge timbers strapped to their
+backs and sides in the same manner.</p>
+
+<p>"This is my home," said Mr. Sarkis, as the carriage
+stopped before a large house surrounded by a small
+garden and a high wall. "I wish you to meet my wife
+and sister and daughters."</p>
+
+<p>Our hostesses were dressed in the English fashion, and
+our hosts, too, wore modern English clothes, but the
+red fez on their heads designated them as Turkish
+subjects. When we expressed an interest in their way
+of living, the ladies took us from the reception room,
+which was furnished in modern style, into their garden
+where orange and lemon trees and semi-tropical plants
+were growing. They conducted us then through the
+spacious marble-floored central hall, permitting us to
+look into nursery and bedrooms fitted up partly in
+modern and partly in Oriental style, and led us up a stone
+stairway to the level roof, which, with its surrounding
+parapet, recalled the one described in "Ben Hur."
+Here fruit was served by a Syrian maid clad in the
+native costume. On our return to the lower floor, our
+hostesses conducted us to the divan salon or Oriental<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_190" id="Page_190">[Pg 190]</a></span>
+smoking room. There, while we rested on low couches,
+the Syrian maid passed around Turkish coffee in dainty
+cups, and then brought a lighted narghileh from which,
+in turn, each one present took a few whiffs of the mild
+Turkish tobacco.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus196.jpg" width="500" height="297" alt="VISITED THE OLDEST CITY IN THE WORLD."
+title="VISITED THE OLDEST CITY IN THE WORLD." />
+<span class="caption">VISITED THE OLDEST CITY IN THE WORLD.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Mr. Sarkis told us that he had visited the United
+States at the time of the Chicago Exposition. He took
+one hundred and forty Arabian horses to the Exposition
+and had some interesting experiences while there.
+The Rev. Mr. Zurub had spent sixteen months in
+America and spoke in the highest terms of the kindness
+with which he had been received by the American
+people.</p>
+
+<p>In the evening a ball was given on the deck of the
+steamer, which had been tastefully decorated for the
+occasion. Our friends, Mr. Sarkis, Mrs. Sarkis and
+sister, the daughters, Fahima, aged about eighteen, Neda,
+aged about fourteen, and a son, aged about sixteen,
+together with Mr. Sabra, came on board to visit the
+ship. Mr. Sabra sang some Arabic songs and Fahima
+joined him in a duet.</p>
+
+<p>About fifty tourists left the Moltke at Beyrout in
+order to take the side trip of three days to Damascus,
+the oldest city in history, and to the ruins of the great
+Temple of Baal at Baalbek. A narrow-gauge railway
+extends across the Lebanon Mountains from Beyrout
+to Damascus. The distance is but ninety miles, but
+as the train has to rise to an elevation of nearly five
+thousand feet and then descend to the valley beyond,
+the average speed does not exceed ten or twelve miles
+an hour. On Wednesday morning the steamer stopped<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_191" id="Page_191">[Pg 191]</a></span>
+at the little seaport of Haifa just long enough to send
+ashore sixty passengers. Some of these wished to take
+the side trip to Nazareth and the Sea of Galilee by carriage;
+the others, to make the excursion through the
+interior of Palestine on horseback, camping on the way,
+and rejoining the main party in Jerusalem.</p>
+
+<p>At noon on Wednesday the Moltke anchored in the
+unprotected harbor of Jaffa over a mile from the shore,
+as it is not safe for a large steamer to approach nearer.
+This was the landing place in the Mediterranean most
+dreaded by the tourists; for we had heard of jagged
+rocks that projected their black heads from the water,
+and of rough seas that on windy days broke over the
+rocks making the passage from the vessel to the dock
+very dangerous. The weather, however, was fair and
+the sea unusually smooth that noon as the tourists one
+by one dropped from the platform at the foot of the
+stairway into the row-boats as they rose on the swell
+of the waves. The boats were large and built expressly
+for this dangerous harbor. Each boat was managed
+by eight men, six rowers, a helmsman, and a bowman,
+and each boat carried about twenty passengers. As the
+Syrians labored hard at the oars they chanted continually
+a prayer to Allah for a fair passage.</p>
+
+<p>After safely landing at the stone steps of the dock,
+we proceeded through the streets to the special train
+which was waiting to carry us up to Jerusalem, not
+stopping to visit the traditional house of Simon, the
+tanner, where the Apostle Peter had a vision on the
+roof.</p>
+
+<p>"The oranges of Jaffa are noted as being the finest in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_192" id="Page_192">[Pg 192]</a></span>
+the world. Don't fail to buy some," said a gentleman
+from California. "We raise good oranges in my state,
+but ours are not quite equal to those of Jaffa."</p>
+
+<p>Arab men and boys surrounded the tourists at the
+station offering carefully packed baskets, each containing
+two or three dozen fresh, juicy oranges at what
+seemed an extremely low price. When the train started
+every compartment contained one or more baskets of
+the delicious fruit.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus199.jpg" width="500" height="401" alt="IT WAS A TYPICAL SYRIAN GROUP."
+title="IT WAS A TYPICAL SYRIAN GROUP." />
+<span class="caption">IT WAS A TYPICAL SYRIAN GROUP.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The journey from Jaffa to Jerusalem was literally
+"up;" for the Sacred City is nearly three thousand feet<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_193" id="Page_193">[Pg 193]</a></span>
+above the sea, and four hours was required for the trip of
+fifty-four miles. After leaving Jaffa the train passed
+through a succession of interesting panoramic views:
+gardens where richness of soil was manifested by the
+rankness of the growth of the plants and flowers; groups
+of palm trees with long, rough trunks, and tufted heads
+high in the air; long rows of tall, narrow-leaved, evergreen
+eucalyptus trees; orchards of orange trees where
+yellow fruit clustered amid the glossy dark green leaves;
+orchards of almond trees covered with a delicate pink
+bloom; and orchards of gray olive trees with a carpet
+of grass underneath, as beautiful as a park; bare fig
+trees whose time for leaf and bloom had not yet come;
+and fences of huge leaved prickly cactus plants protecting
+garden plots.</p>
+
+<p>"What queer looking plows they have," said a companion,
+as we noticed near the train a plowman who
+had stopped his camel, and thrown his plow, which
+looked like a crooked root with a point, out of the furrow,
+while he gazed at the passing train. "The first gardener
+must have obtained a plow of the same kind from the
+original forest."</p>
+
+<p>In stretches of sod the rich brown earth was being
+turned up by farmers with teams of camels, one great
+camel to each little wooden plow, or with teams composed
+of an ox and an ass hitched together. In one field twelve
+camel teams were plowing the sod. We use the word
+field, but there were no fences except the cactus hedges
+around small plots. The farm boundaries from ancient
+times have been marked by corner stones to which
+Moses referred when he gave the law: "Cursed be he<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_194" id="Page_194">[Pg 194]</a></span>
+that removeth his neighbor's landmark." We were in
+the midst of historic places mentioned in the Bible. To
+the north lay the fertile level fields of the Plain of Sharon.
+Fields of young wheat were beautified by the roses of
+Sharon,&mdash;red poppies with black centres and short
+stems,&mdash;which dotted the carpet of green with flecks of
+red. At Lydda, where Peter healed the man who had
+the palsy, Arab urchins begged the passengers to buy
+little bunches of the red poppies and other wild flowers
+that they offered for sale. To the south stretched the
+Plain of Philistia, the scene of Samson's adventures,
+and the fields through which he sent the three hundred
+foxes with firebrands tied to their tails. In that direction
+also lay battle fields where Philistines and Israelites
+struggled for supremacy.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus202.jpg" width="500" height="291" alt="A CARAVAN WITH BALES OF RUGS HAD JUST ARRIVED."
+title="A CARAVAN WITH BALES OF RUGS HAD JUST ARRIVED." />
+<span class="caption">A CARAVAN WITH BALES OF RUGS HAD JUST ARRIVED.</span>
+</div>
+<p>The towns and villages on the route were small and
+mean. The better buildings were constructed of stone
+with flat stone roofs, but many were made of mud with
+mud roofs on which a crop of grass was growing. After
+the first hour's ride, fertile rolling plains succeeded the
+level sandy loam. When about thirty miles from
+Jaffa, after a two hours' ride, the hill country of Judea
+was entered. From that point the train traveled slowly
+and laboriously up the hills and mountains by steep
+gradients. Overhead in the limestone cliffs were many
+caves, one of which was pointed out as Samson's Grotto.
+Whenever there was any soil among the rocks and stones,
+the grass grew luxuriantly, making good pasture for the
+herds of nimble-footed black goats that picked their
+way along the steep and rocky mountain side. The
+red rose of Sharon grew in profusion and took possession<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_196" id="Page_196">[Pg 196]</a></span>
+of the uncultivated ground around the trees and between
+the rocks. At many places the abundance of these
+poppies and the beauty of their groupings gave to the
+land the appearance of a park planned and laid out by
+a landscape gardener. Nearer the summit the hills
+were bleak and barren. Here was the village of Bittir,
+a group of little stone houses clinging to the mountain
+side, where terraces supported by stone walls held up
+small gardens on which cauliflower and other vegetables
+were growing.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 472px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus203.jpg" width="472" height="303" alt="THEY CHANTED A PRAYER TO ALLAH."
+title="THEY CHANTED A PRAYER TO ALLAH." />
+<span class="caption">THEY CHANTED A PRAYER TO ALLAH.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>"For the past hour," said a lady who had been intently
+gazing out of the window of the car, "yes, for a longer
+time, I have been looking forward expecting to see a
+city burst forth impressively into sight, a city upon a
+mountain top, 'beautiful for situation.' Now the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_197" id="Page_197">[Pg 197]</a></span>
+conductor tells us that we are nearing our destination,
+and yet cliffs and hills are all that we can see. Where
+is Jerusalem? 'A city set upon a hill cannot be hid.'"</p>
+
+<p>"You have not read your Bible closely," replied a
+minister in our compartment. "David said, 'The mountains
+are round about Jerusalem,' As it was then so
+we shall find it now, on hills surrounded by other hills.
+Do not expect to see the city of Solomon's time which
+the Queen of Sheba came to visit. Its glory departed
+eighteen centuries ago. I fear that your imagination
+has led you to expect more than the modern Turkish
+town which we shall find, and you may feel like lamenting
+with Jeremiah, 'Is this the city that men call the
+perfection of beauty, the joy of the whole earth?'"</p>
+
+<p>It was not until we were approaching the railway
+station, which is situated in the suburbs about a mile
+from the city, that we obtained a view of the yellow
+walls and buildings of the Holy City, and the sight then
+was not impressive, as we had expected. Then at the
+station, amid the noisy cries of many Arab drivers, we
+obtained seats in carriages, and were driven at breakneck
+speed over a good road down into the valley of
+Hinnom and up a long hill to the Jaffa gate.</p>
+
+<p>The party had been divided by the managers into
+sections for the various hotels, and each tourist had been
+given a card with the name of his hotel. Those who
+were to go to hotels outside the walls of the city proceeded
+directly to their destination in carriages. Those
+who were to stay within the walls descended from the
+conveyances in front of the Grand Hotel just within the
+Jaffa gate, and went the rest of the way on foot through<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_198" id="Page_198">[Pg 198]</a></span>
+narrow streets that carriages could not enter. The
+writer was assigned to the Casa Nova, or Hospitium
+Franciscanum, a monastery or hospital built expressly
+for the accommodation of pilgrims to the Holy City, and
+controlled and managed by Franciscan monks.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_199" id="Page_199">[Pg 199]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XI" id="CHAPTER_XI"></a>CHAPTER XI.</h2>
+
+<p class="center">JERUSALEM.</p>
+
+
+<p>On Wednesday evening, after our arrival at
+Jerusalem, we visited a small store to purchase a
+guide-book of the city. But the merchant would
+not accept our French or English money, and we had no
+Turkish money. We laid the book down, but the dealer
+said, "You take the book and pay me another time."</p>
+
+<p>"Are you willing to trust a stranger?" we inquired.</p>
+
+<p>"Yes!" he replied, "I trust American any time.
+You may buy goods, all you want, three hundred dollars'
+worth. I trust you. When you go home to America,
+then you send me the money."</p>
+
+<p>"Were you never cheated?" we asked.</p>
+
+<p>"No," he answered, "I trust American many time.
+American always pay, but me not trust Frenchman;
+Frenchman forget."</p>
+
+<p>Glad to know that our countrymen bear such a good
+reputation, we took the book without giving our names,
+merely telling him that we were staying at the Casa
+Nova and would pay the next day.</p>
+
+<p>In our country we can travel from Maine to California
+with one kind of money. All that is necessary is to
+have plenty of it. But in these foreign lands the currency
+changes as we move from one country to another,
+so that we may have a pocket full of money and yet
+not be able to pay our bills. At Funchal, Portuguese<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_200" id="Page_200">[Pg 200]</a></span>
+money was current; at Gibraltar and at Malta, English
+money; at Granada, Spanish; at Algiers, French; at
+Athens, Greek; at Constantinople and Jerusalem, Turkish.
+In Cairo another coinage was current, and in
+Italy the Turkish and Egyptian coins left over had to be
+sold to the money changers or taken home as souvenirs.
+In large cities the hotels and larger stores accepted
+American, English, and French money at its value, but
+small dealers and individuals knew nothing of foreign
+coins and wanted payment in their own currency.
+As it was desirable at all times to have plenty of small
+coins on hand, the tourists soon became acquainted
+with the value of shillings and pence, francs and centimes,
+drachmæ and lepta, piasters and paras. On
+our arrival at each port the managers of the tour and the
+purser of the vessel obtained a large number of small
+coins of that particular country so that the needs of the
+tourists could be promptly supplied.</p>
+
+<p>Our room at the Hospice was rather cold but my
+room-mate said there was one compensation, we need
+have no fear of the hotel's burning down and so need
+not be anxious as to the location of the fire escapes
+before retiring. The Casa Nova is a stone building
+with stone stairways and floors. In our room there was
+nothing inflammable but the mosquito nettings and lace
+draperies over the iron bedsteads. Two candles furnished
+us with light, hempen rugs covered portions of
+the black and white marble floor, a gilded crucifix hung
+on the painted stone wall, and two chairs, a small table,
+and a washstand completed the furnishing.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus208a.jpg" width="500" height="139" alt="I. ENTERED BY THE JAFFA GATE."
+title="I. ENTERED BY THE JAFFA GATE." />
+<span class="caption">I. ENTERED BY THE JAFFA GATE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus208b.jpg" width="500" height="139" alt="II. STOOD IN THE PALACE OF CAIAPHAS."
+title="II. STOOD IN THE PALACE OF CAIAPHAS." />
+<span class="caption">II. STOOD IN THE PALACE OF CAIAPHAS.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Early Thursday morning, with bright anticipations,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_202" id="Page_202">[Pg 202]</a></span>
+we started for a visit to Bethlehem. The drive of six
+miles over a good limestone road was one of much
+interest. Our dragoman pointed out the well where the
+wise men, stooping to drink, saw the reflection of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_203" id="Page_203">[Pg 203]</a></span>
+star in the water before they beheld the star itself in the
+sky.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus209.jpg" width="300" height="357" alt="CAMELS SINGLE AND CAMELS IN TRAINS."
+title="CAMELS SINGLE AND CAMELS IN TRAINS." />
+<span class="caption">CAMELS SINGLE AND CAMELS IN TRAINS.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>"Why, how could that be?" inquired one of the party.
+"I thought the wise men were following the star."</p>
+
+<p>But the guide did not attempt to explain. It was his
+business to state facts in which he had believed all his
+life; not to enter into disputes with unbelievers as to the
+truth of his statements. He showed us a great rock in
+the road where Elijah, wearied in his flight, lay down
+to rest. It seemed to be a hard bed for a tired man, but
+we remembered that in olden times rocks and caves
+were selected for sleeping-places and stones often served
+for pillows.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus210.jpg" width="500" height="211" alt="RECALLED TO MEMORY THE OLD LOVE STORY."
+title="RECALLED TO MEMORY THE OLD LOVE STORY." />
+<span class="caption">RECALLED TO MEMORY THE OLD LOVE STORY.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Camels were so numerous on the road that they lost
+their novelty,&mdash;camels single and camels in trains, with
+great hampers swinging at their sides laden with sacks
+of lime or charcoal, with building stone or cauliflower,
+with fish or flagstones, with chunks of wood and gnarled
+roots, with bags of grain and crates of vegetables, each<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_204" id="Page_204">[Pg 204]</a></span>
+camel carrying a quantity about equal to a one-horse
+wagon load. From a hill-top we caught a glimpse of the
+Dead Sea lying far below us in the valley twenty miles
+away. We met women on their way to market with
+heavy baskets of cauliflower and other vegetables
+poised on their heads, men bending under distended
+goat-skins filled with water or wine strapped to their
+shoulders, donkeys bearing basket-panniers filled with
+produce or laden with bags of grain heaped on their
+backs, Greek priests in black robes and high hats carrying
+white umbrellas for protection from the sun, and
+turbaned Arabs in brown robes plodding along with
+staves in their hands.</p>
+
+<p>The mountainous suburbs of the city are composed
+of limestone, and the limestone rocks cropped out on
+every side. The rocks protruding from the soil were of
+a light gray color, but the broken rocks, the fences, and
+the houses built of stone had changed to a light yellow
+shade from exposure to the weather. The fields were
+covered with stones except where little patches had been
+cleared with great labor and the stones built into fences
+surrounding the small plots. The hill-sides were almost
+bare of soil. Where the stones had been cleared away,
+the soil of decomposed limestone produced a luxuriant
+growth. The cauliflower carried to market was the
+finest we had ever seen. The few scattered olive trees
+in the valleys appeared strong and healthy in their
+light green foliage. The fig trees were bare, but occasional
+groups of almond trees were covered with pink
+bloom.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus212.jpg" width="500" height="360" alt="IN THE NARROW STREETS OF BETHLEHEM."
+title="IN THE NARROW STREETS OF BETHLEHEM." />
+<span class="caption">IN THE NARROW STREETS OF BETHLEHEM.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>During our drive we saw peasants plowing little plots<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_205" id="Page_205">[Pg 205]</a></span>
+with single donkeys and crooked wooden plows, or
+digging between rocks and around grape vines with
+clumsy, heavy-looking hoes. The grape vines were
+trimmed back to within three or four feet of the ground
+and were not supported or trellised. Women gathered
+the trimmings of the vines, bound them into fagots,
+placed the fagots on their heads, and carried them away
+to the city for firewood. Not a sprig was wasted. The
+old roots that were dug out of the ground were borne
+away in the same manner. In a country without forests
+and without coal everything that will burn is utilized.
+We saw girls carrying flat baskets on their heads and
+the guide satisfied our curiosity by explaining that the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_206" id="Page_206">[Pg 206]</a></span>
+baskets contained dried cakes of camels' dung which
+the girls had gathered and were taking home for fuel.</p>
+
+<p>Rachel's tomb, situated four miles from Jerusalem,
+and about two miles from Bethlehem, recalled to memory
+the old love story: "And Jacob served Laban seven
+years for Rachel; and they seemed unto him but a few
+days, for the love he had for her."</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus213.jpg" width="500" height="425" alt="THE PEOPLE OF BETHLEHEM WERE BRIGHT AND CHEERFUL." title="THE PEOPLE OF BETHLEHEM WERE BRIGHT AND CHEERFUL." />
+<span class="caption">THE PEOPLE OF BETHLEHEM WERE BRIGHT AND CHEERFUL.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Cut in the rock, near Bethlehem is an ancient well,
+known as the well of David. From that point we obtained
+a good view of the square stone houses of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_207" id="Page_207">[Pg 207]</a></span>
+little town of Bethlehem, which is built on a sloping
+hill-side, and of the great spreading Church of the
+Nativity, which is the dominating feature of the place.
+Beyond the city we saw a verdant plain, where possibly
+Ruth gleaned, and, farther away, the hills where probably
+David led his flock to "green pastures" and the
+shepherds of later days received the "tidings of great
+joy."</p>
+
+<p>In the narrow streets of Bethlehem our driver shouted
+to men, women, and children to clear the way and make
+room for the carriages to pass through, snapping his
+whip at them if they did not quickly obey. When we
+arrived at the old Church of the Holy Nativity we were
+told that this venerable place is in reality a group of
+buildings, the original edifice having been built fifteen
+or more centuries ago, and many additions having been
+made in after years. We saw a structure of yellowish
+stone walls pierced with small windows which appeared
+to us more like a prison or a fortress than a place of
+worship. There were no stained glass windows. There
+was no imposing portal opening into the temple. On
+entering the sacred enclosure we passed through a door
+in the stone wall so low that we were compelled to stoop
+and so narrow that but one at a time might enter.</p>
+
+<p>"This doorway," said the guide, "should remind the
+pilgrims that the birthplace of the Savior is to be
+visited with humility and reverence."</p>
+
+<p>In the large, time-worn interior of the church, faded
+mosaics, huge columns, and stone floors presented a
+rather gloomy aspect. The tourists hastened through
+and descended to the crypt or vault underneath the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_208" id="Page_208">[Pg 208]</a></span>
+church. This vault was paved with marble, and on a
+raised platform in the centre was a large, handsomely
+decorated altar. Suspended from the ceiling were many
+ancient lamps of curious make and smaller lamps hanging
+in festoons. On one side was a small room, called
+the Chapel of the Nativity, where thirty gold and silver
+lamps threw a dim, soft light on the scene below. In
+the pavement before an altar was a star of silver, and
+the words:</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">"Hic de Virgine Maria Jesus Christus natus est."<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>Opposite and near the Chapel of the Nativity was
+another small, rock-walled room called the Chapel of the
+Manger. In this room the dim light of golden lamps
+revealed a white marble manger in which a large wax
+doll reclined.</p>
+
+<p>"The original wooden manger or cradle in which the
+infant Jesus reposed was taken to Rome," explained the
+guide. "If you return by way of Rome you may see it
+in the great church of Santa Maria Maggiore."</p>
+
+<p>"The care of the chapels, shrines, and holy places of
+the Church of the Nativity," he continued, "is appointed
+to the Latin, Greek, and Armenian churches. The
+space inside the building is divided. Each sect has its
+own particular portion to care for, and an intense
+jealousy exists among the rival religious bodies. If
+the rug of the Armenian is accidentally pushed over the
+Latin line, the action is resented. If the broom of the
+Latin while cleansing intrudes upon the Greek domain,
+there is trouble. Disputes have arisen from very
+slight causes, blows have been exchanged, rioting,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_210" id="Page_210">[Pg 210]</a></span>
+blood-shed, and murder have followed. Priests at
+times have fought with priests until the Turkish soldiers
+intervened. Now, by the Sultan's orders, Moslem
+guards are stationed in the church to restrain the impetuous
+caretakers and prevent disturbances."</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus216.jpg" width="300" height="406" alt="THIS ROUND-TOPPED RIDGE IS CALLED THE MOUNT OF OLIVES."
+title="THIS ROUND-TOPPED RIDGE IS CALLED THE MOUNT OF OLIVES." />
+<span class="caption">THIS ROUND-TOPPED RIDGE IS CALLED THE MOUNT OF OLIVES.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>In one of the underground chapels of the church, a
+dark and gloomy cavern cut out of the solid rock, the
+guide said: "In this grotto Saint Jerome passed thirty
+years fasting, praying, meditating, and writing. His
+last communion was taken here."</p>
+
+<p>We remembered that Domenichino's celebrated painting
+in the Vatican at Rome, called the "Last Communion
+of St. Jerome," represented the aged saint dying amid
+luxurious surroundings.</p>
+
+<p>When we came out of the church, bright-faced boys
+and girls urged us to buy their wares or accompany them
+to the shops. The little town appeared to prosper from
+the manufacture and sale of souvenirs of carved mother-of-pearl
+and olive-wood. Crosses, crucifixes, rosaries,
+beads, glove-boxes, writing desks, inkstands, napkin
+rings, paper knives, and forks were offered as genuine
+wood from the olive trees of David's town, and the
+mother-of-pearl mementoes were carved with minute
+scenes of events in the life of Christ and of places in the
+Holy Land.</p>
+
+<p>After the purchase of olive wood souvenirs had been
+made, the drive was continued to the Pools which Solomon
+had built to collect water for use in the Temple.
+These are situated among the hills about eight miles
+from Jerusalem. The stone walls of the reservoirs
+were so well constructed by Solomon's architects three<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_212" id="Page_212">[Pg 212]</a></span>
+thousand years ago that to-day the masonry is in
+almost perfect condition. The Pools, we were informed
+are not in use at the present time, although water is
+conveyed in pipes to Jerusalem from springs near-by.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus218.jpg" width="500" height="340" alt="A GARDEN SURROUNDED BY AN IRON FENCE."
+title="A GARDEN SURROUNDED BY AN IRON FENCE." />
+<span class="caption">A GARDEN SURROUNDED BY AN IRON FENCE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The glare of the sun on the white road and gray rocks,
+the lack of green in the bare landscape, and the fine
+dust from the limestone caused a slight smarting in the
+eyes of the travelers. So it was with relief that in the
+suburbs of the city, about half a mile from the Damascus
+gate, we descended a long flight of stone steps into the
+shade of an excavation in the rocks about twenty feet
+in depth. This open chamber, known as the Tombs of
+the Kings, is about ninety feet square. At one side is a
+doorway in the rock four feet high and thirty inches
+wide, and beside the doorway stood a huge stone,
+rounded at the corners, that might, by the united efforts
+of several men, be rolled in front of the entrance so as to
+close it completely. We crawled through the hole in the
+rock and entered a cavern. The candles of the guides
+revealed on each side of the cavern small rooms or caves
+containing shelves or apertures which had been used
+as the sepulchres of the Kings.</p>
+
+<p>Jerusalem, situated on four hills, is surrounded by
+hills which are separated from the city and from each
+other by deep valleys or gulleys. We drove from
+Jerusalem to the Mount of Olives over a well constructed
+modern limestone road that wound among these hills
+and valleys in long curves and horseshoes in order to
+reach a place that seemed almost within a stone's
+throw.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus220.jpg" width="300" height="385" alt="CAREFULLY TENDED AND GUARDED BY FRANCISCAN MONKS."
+title="CAREFULLY TENDED AND GUARDED BY FRANCISCAN MONKS." />
+<span class="caption">CAREFULLY TENDED AND GUARDED BY FRANCISCAN MONKS.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>"The summit of this round-topped ridge, which is<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_214" id="Page_214">[Pg 214]</a></span>
+called the Mount of Olives, is owned by Russia,"
+explained the guide, "and the Russians have erected an
+observation tower, a chapel, and other buildings upon
+it. These buildings are surrounded by a courtyard
+enclosed within high stone walls, and a fee must be paid
+at the gate in order to gain admittance. Within the
+court a small circular pavilion covers the place from
+which, it is claimed, the ascension of the Savior was
+made."</p>
+
+<p>As we approached the gate, a group of Russian men
+and women were seen coming sadly away. We were
+informed later that these peasants, after tramping a long
+distance on a holy pilgrimage in order to kneel down and
+kiss the stone that marked the sacred spot of the Ascension
+of their Lord, were refused admittance because
+they had not the required fee to pay for entrance. In
+a Roman Catholic church, built on the spot on Olivet
+where Christ is said to have taught His disciples to pray,
+the Lord's Prayer is displayed on charts in large letters
+in thirty-six different languages, so that pilgrims from
+all parts of the world can read the prayer in their own
+tongue.</p>
+
+<p>From the summit of Olivet, which is two hundred
+feet above the city of Jerusalem, we looked down over the
+Holy City; but a finer panoramic view of the surrounding
+country was obtained afterwards from the Russian
+observation tower. The climbing of the two hundred
+stone steps which lead to the top of the tower was not
+easy, but we felt amply repaid by the magnificence of
+the view. Near the foot of the mountain lay the Garden
+of Gethsemane. Beyond and four hundred feet below<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_216" id="Page_216">[Pg 216]</a></span>
+us, the little brook Kedron trickled through the narrow
+Valley of Jehoshaphat. Across the valley on the opposite
+heights of Mount Moriah, only half a mile away
+in a direct line, prominent in the foreground, stood the
+Mosque of Omar, and back of it rose the square roof
+and round domes of the city buildings. Away off to the
+east, deep down in the valley, we could see a portion of
+the Dead Sea and could trace the Valley of the River
+Jordan.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus222.jpg" width="500" height="297" alt="AND A FEW LEAVES FROM ONE OF THE ANCIENT OLIVE TREES."
+title="AND A FEW LEAVES FROM ONE OF THE ANCIENT OLIVE TREES." />
+<span class="caption">AND A FEW LEAVES FROM ONE OF THE ANCIENT OLIVE TREES.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>We walked from the summit of the Mount of Olives
+down a steep, rocky, crooked, narrow lane, hemmed
+in by stone walls, to the foot of the slope, as it is considered
+too dangerous for the tourists to remain in the
+carriages while descending this short cut to a lower road.
+The carriages rejoined us later. At the foot of the hill
+there was a piece of land about half an acre in extent
+enclosed by a white stone fence. Within the enclosure
+was a garden surrounded by an iron fence. Between
+the stone fence and the iron railing was a wide path.
+Within the garden were eight gnarled olive trees that
+appeared to be of great age, and flower beds which were
+carefully tended and guarded by Franciscan monks.
+It was not necessary for the guide to tell us that this was
+the Garden of Gethsemane. Small shrines with pictures
+above them, fourteen in all, representing the fourteen
+traditionary stations of the Via Dolorosa, were
+arranged at intervals along the path around the garden.
+Before these shrines pilgrims were kneeling in prayer.
+As we were leaving the garden an old monk with tonsured
+head, in long brown robe girt about with a hempen
+cord and having sandals laced on his bare feet, presented<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_218" id="Page_218">[Pg 218]</a></span>
+each, of us with a flower from the garden and a few leaves
+from one of the ancient olive trees.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus224a.jpg" width="500" height="144" alt="I. BETHANY IS A POOR LITTLE VILLAGE." title="I. BETHANY IS A POOR LITTLE VILLAGE." />
+<span class="caption">I. BETHANY IS A POOR LITTLE VILLAGE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus224b.jpg" width="500" height="140" alt="II. THE EMPTY TOMB OF THE RISEN VIRGIN." title="II. THE EMPTY TOMB OF THE RISEN VIRGIN." />
+<span class="caption">II. THE EMPTY TOMB OF THE RISEN VIRGIN.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The Tomb and Chapel of the Virgin, which is but a
+short distance from Gethsemane, had a venerable
+aspect, and the olive trees surrounding it were patriarchal
+in appearance. We crossed the sunken court and
+descended a broad staircase of sixty steps to a gloomy
+chapel which seemed to have been excavated in the
+rock.</p>
+
+<p>"These tombs on the right are the tombs of the parents
+of the Virgin, Joachim and Anna," said the guide as we
+halted in the dim light. "That tomb on the left is the
+tomb of Joseph, the husband of Mary. The small
+chapel at the end of the grotto contains the empty tomb
+of the risen virgin."</p>
+
+<p>On the road to Bethany we passed many trains of
+pack mules, twenty or thirty in a train, and caravans
+of camels striding along in single file. A light rope or
+chain connected the leading camel with the others and
+kept them from straggling.</p>
+
+<p>The Arab who drove our carriage told us that he was a
+scholar. He explained by stating that he could converse
+fluently in four languages, besides his own native
+Arabic tongue. These languages were Turkish, Russian,
+Latin, and French, and in addition, he knew enough
+English to give some information to the tourists. The
+linguistic ignorance of the occupants of his carriage
+seemed to impress him with the idea that education in
+America is neglected.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus226.jpg" width="500" height="294" alt="IN A STREET IN BETHANY A LOCAL GUIDE WAS WAITING."
+title="IN A STREET IN BETHANY A LOCAL GUIDE WAS WAITING." />
+<span class="caption">IN A STREET IN BETHANY A LOCAL GUIDE WAS WAITING.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Bethany, barely two miles distant from Jerusalem, is
+a poor little village with steep, rough, dirty lanes and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_220" id="Page_220">[Pg 220]</a></span>
+a number of old and dilapidated small stone houses
+amid broken walls of other houses which evidently have
+been equally insignificant. One of these piles was
+pointed out by the Bethany guides as the ruins of the
+home of Mary and Martha, and we were then taken to a
+narrow lane where a dark and slimy stairway led down
+to the reputed tomb of Lazarus. Our dragoman, who
+firmly believed in the traditions of the country, said that
+he could not vouch for the statements made by the
+Bethany local guides.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus227.jpg" width="400" height="331" alt="AT THE ENTRANCE TO THE TOMB OF LAZARUS."
+title="AT THE ENTRANCE TO THE TOMB OF LAZARUS." />
+<span class="caption">AT THE ENTRANCE TO THE TOMB OF LAZARUS.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Returning to Jerusalem, we visited the so-called<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_221" id="Page_221">[Pg 221]</a></span>
+palace of Caiaphas, the High Priest. This palace is an
+excavated ruin. Steps lead down to the marble floor,
+which is fifteen or twenty feet below the present level
+of the street.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 400px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus228.jpg" width="400" height="439" alt="THE RUINS OF THE HOME OF MARY AND MARTHA."
+title="THE RUINS OF THE HOME OF MARY AND MARTHA." />
+<span class="caption">THE RUINS OF THE HOME OF MARY AND MARTHA.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>"The circle on the pavement," said the custodian,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_222" id="Page_222">[Pg 222]</a></span>
+"marks the place where Peter stood with the soldiers,
+warming his hands by the little fire which they had
+kindled in a brazier, when he was accused by the maid
+of being a companion and follower of the Prisoner then
+on trial before the High Priest. The stone pillar that
+you see in the courtyard of the palace is the stone on
+which the cock was perched when its crowing quickened
+Peter's memory, softened his heart, and brought bitter
+tears to his eyes."</p>
+
+<p>After leaving the palace we followed the guide through
+a rough narrow street to a view point on the wall. Far
+below us lay the Valley of Jehoshaphat, the village of
+Siloam, and the site of the pool to which Jesus sent the
+blind man to wash.</p>
+
+<p>"The walk to the pool through the rough and crooked
+streets would be difficult now for a man with good sight,"
+remarked one of the tourists, "how much more so would
+it be to a blind man groping his way."</p>
+
+<p>Permission to visit the Temple Area, or Haram, as it
+is called by the Moslems, had been obtained from the
+Turkish authorities by the payment of heavy fees. We
+proceeded to that place on foot accompanied by the
+dragoman. At the gate of the Area the authorities
+furnished Moslem guides to conduct the visitors through
+the enclosure, and sent Turkish soldiers to accompany
+the party to restrain any possible irreverent or unseemly
+conduct while within the holy precincts.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus230a.jpg" width="500" height="140" alt="I. WITHIN THE TEMPLE AREA." title="I. WITHIN THE TEMPLE AREA." />
+<span class="caption">I. WITHIN THE TEMPLE AREA.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus230b.jpg" width="500" height="139" alt="II. THE AREA EXTENDS OVER THIRTY-FIVE ACRES." title="II. THE AREA EXTENDS OVER THIRTY-FIVE ACRES." />
+<span class="caption">II. THE AREA EXTENDS OVER THIRTY-FIVE ACRES.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>"The Temple Area, which probably covers the place
+where was once the Court of the Temple," explained the
+dragoman, as we halted within the grounds, "is thirty-five
+acres in extent, about one thousand feet wide by<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_224" id="Page_224">[Pg 224]</a></span>
+two thousand feet in length, and is surrounded by high
+walls. It is revered by the Moslems as one of their most
+holy places. This is the Mount Moriah hallowed by the
+sacrifices of Abraham, glorified by the prayers of King
+David, consecrated by the Temple of Solomon, and
+made additionally sacred by the ascension of the Prophet
+of Allah. The Moslems forbid the entrance of Jews into
+the Haram, although the Jews have as great reverence
+for the place as the Moslems."</p>
+
+<p>In the centre of the Area, on a raised embankment or
+platform, paved with marble slabs, stood a handsome
+octagonal building covered below the window line with
+marbles of various hues and above that line by decorated
+tiles of blue-and-white porcelain edged with green. As
+we stood on the marble pavement and gazed at the tiling
+mellowed by age, and at the round lead-covered dome
+above, the guide continued his explanations.</p>
+
+<p>"This edifice, called by the Moslems the Dome of the
+Rock," said he, "but better known as the Mosque of
+Omar, is built on the site of the Temple of Herod, and
+also on the site of the Temple of Solomon, which preceded
+that of Herod. Each side of the octagon is
+sixty-six feet in length, and the top of the dome is one
+hundred and fifteen feet above this platform."</p>
+
+<p>Underneath a small pavilion at the entrance, attendants
+laced slippers to our feet and then conducted us
+into the Mosque. On the floor lay precious Oriental
+rugs. Overhead in the dome, the light entered through
+richly stained glass windows, tinting and beautifying
+the interior and disclosing the mosaic decorations of the
+ceiling and the Arabic inscriptions on the walls. At<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_225" id="Page_225">[Pg 225]</a></span>
+one side was an exquisitely carved wooden pulpit inlaid
+with ivory and mother-of-pearl. In the centre of the
+Mosque a great rock, at least fifty feet long and almost
+as wide, rose to the height of our heads. A beautifully
+designed, gilded and bronzed iron railing prevented infidel
+fingers from touching the rock.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus232.jpg" width="500" height="396" alt="WE WILL TAKE THE PICTURE AND INCLUDE THE TURKS IN IT." title="WE WILL TAKE THE PICTURE AND INCLUDE THE TURKS IN IT." />
+<span class="caption">WE WILL TAKE THE PICTURE AND INCLUDE THE TURKS IN IT.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>"This mountain-top, the crown of Mount Moriah,"
+said the Moslem dragoman, as we stood reverently before
+it, "is the place where the arm of Abraham was stayed
+as he lifted the knife to slay his son. This rock, in
+David's time, was the threshing floor of Araunah, whose<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_226" id="Page_226">[Pg 226]</a></span>
+oxen trampled out the grain upon it until the time when
+King David purchased the land and built here an altar
+to the Lord. When King Solomon erected the temple
+upon the site prepared and dedicated by his father David,
+this Holy Rock became the altar upon which the priests
+of the temple offered sacrifices. When Mohammed, the
+Prophet of God, took his flight to Heaven he rose from
+this sanctified place, which is nearer to Heaven than any
+other spot on earth, leaving as a memorial the impression
+of his foot which you now see there in the rock. The
+print of the hand in the rock near the footprint was made
+by the angel Gabriel when he prevented the rock from
+following the Prophet in his ascent."</p>
+
+<p>At the foot of the flight of steps which the tourists
+descended on their way from the marble platform of the
+Dome of the Rock to the Mosque of El Aksa, the tourists
+encountered Turkish photographers, who, hoping that
+the Americans would gladly make use of their services,
+had been patiently awaiting their arrival. But the
+tourists were well supplied with their own outfits, and
+these amateurs, disdaining the offered professional
+services, secured snapshots themselves.</p>
+
+<p>"What!" said one of the amateurs indignantly, "let
+the Turks take us? No! let some of the party stay
+on the steps and we will take the picture and include
+the Turks in it."</p>
+
+<p>While returning through the extensive grounds of the
+Haram, one of the tourists lighted a pipe. Immediately
+a Moslem guard approached and with unintelligible
+words, made it known by his frowning face and
+threatening gestures, that the pipe must be extinguished.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_227" id="Page_227">[Pg 227]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XII" id="CHAPTER_XII"></a>CHAPTER XII.</h2>
+
+<p class="center">THE CHURCH OF THE HOLY SEPULCHRE.</p>
+
+
+<p>The floor of the vast Church of the Holy Sepulchre
+is below the level of Christian Street. We
+descended to the church through a narrow alley
+about a hundred feet in length, which by slopes and steps
+led downward. On each side of this alley peddlers had
+stands for the sale of beads, rosaries, crucifixes, candles,
+and souvenirs, which they earnestly besought the visitors
+to buy. The church is so surrounded by other buildings
+that it could not be seen until we arrived at the foot
+of the alley, where a few steps to the left led down to a
+wide stone paved court. Even then only the rough
+stone facade and the top of the dome were visible.
+The door was guarded by Turkish soldiers, but they
+did not object to our entrance.</p>
+
+<p>Within the Church, in the centre of the vestibule, we
+paused beside a marble slab six feet in length, elevated
+slightly above the stone floor. A canopy overspread
+the marble and at the sides of the canopy stood six
+immense ornamented silver candlesticks rising higher
+than our heads. In these were tall candles.</p>
+
+<p>"This is the Stone of Unction," said the guide. "On
+this marble the body of Jesus lay while it was anointed
+for burial. Two of these candlesticks belong to the
+Greek Church, two to the Armenian Church, and two
+to the Latin Church. In this holy edifice each religious<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_228" id="Page_228">[Pg 228]</a></span>
+sect claims the privilege of taking part in the worship
+and in the care of the sacred places."</p>
+
+<p>Not far from the vestibule the guide halted, and
+pointing to a circle on the stone floor, said: "This
+circle marks the place where the Mother of Jesus stood
+at the time of the anointing."</p>
+
+<p>The Church of the Holy Sepulchre, we ascertained, is
+composed of many parts. A rotunda, sixty-six feet
+in diameter, occupies the center. Above this rises the
+dome, supported by eighteen large piers. On one side
+of this round room, an opening leads into a Greek
+church; on the other side, entrances between the piers
+lead into small chapels. Grouped around outside of
+these, but connected with the central rotunda, church,
+and small chapels, are other chapels, rooms, and sacred
+places, the whole covering a space of over two acres.
+In the centre of the rotunda, directly underneath the
+dome, stands a small marble building twenty-six feet
+long by eighteen feet broad, richly decorated with
+carvings, inscriptions, and figures of angels. At one
+end of this building there is a small door guarded by
+huge bronze candlesticks ten feet in height and over-hung
+with gold and silver lamps of curious oriental
+design. Three golden crosses surmount the front of
+this miniature building: one of Greek form furnished
+by the Greek Church; one of Roman form, by the
+Latins; and one of the Syrian shape, by the Armenians.</p>
+
+<p>"This small building," said the guide, "encloses the
+place of the Sepulchre. The interior is divided into
+two parts. The first you will enter is the Chapel of the
+Angel. The Tomb of the Savior is in the second part."<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_229" id="Page_229">[Pg 229]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus236a.jpg" width="500" height="145" alt="I. ENTRANCE TO THE CHURCH OF THE SEPULCHRE." title="I. ENTRANCE TO THE CHURCH OF THE SEPULCHRE." />
+<span class="caption">I. ENTRANCE TO THE CHURCH OF THE SEPULCHRE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus236b.jpg" width="500" height="138" alt="II. THE VIA DOLOROSA." title="II. THE VIA DOLOROSA." />
+<span class="caption">II. THE VIA DOLOROSA.</span>
+</div><p>
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_230" id="Page_230">[Pg 230]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 250px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus237.jpg" width="250" height="294" alt="A CRUST IN HER HAND, A GRIN ON HER FACE."
+title="A CRUST IN HER HAND, A GRIN ON HER FACE." />
+<span class="caption">A CRUST IN HER HAND, A GRIN ON HER FACE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Passing between the lines of huge candlesticks and
+underneath the clusters of overhanging lamps, we
+entered the small doorway and were in the Chapel of the
+Angel. In the centre of this small room stands the
+stone upon which, the guide said, the angel sat after
+rolling it away from the entrance to the Savior's
+tomb. Stooping
+low we passed
+singly through the
+narrow opening to
+the tomb. This is
+a small chamber
+about six feet
+square, the floor
+and walls of which
+are covered with
+white marble. At
+the right hand
+side of the tomb
+a marble slab
+about two feet
+wide extends the
+length of the chamber.
+This marble
+is much worn by
+the millions of kisses that have been tearfully and
+reverently pressed upon it by the pilgrims of many
+centuries. Two score of golden lamps, continually
+burning overhead, shed a soft but brilliant light upon
+the tomb. Our visit to the interior of the tomb was
+short; for not more than five persons may stand in it<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_232" id="Page_232">[Pg 232]</a></span>
+at one time, and other pilgrims from other lands were
+waiting their turn to enter.</p>
+
+<p>For a small fee the local guides provided us with
+tapers, for some of the chapels and grottoes within
+the vast cluster of the buildings of the church were dark,
+and in the gloomy recesses the holy places could not
+be seen without a light. In the dark grotto of the
+Syrian chapel our tapers shed a dim light on two tombs,
+which the guide said were those of Nicodemus and Joseph
+of Arimathea.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 250px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus238.jpg" width="250" height="325" alt="WE WALKED THROUGH THE NARROW VIA DOLOROSA.
+" title="WE WALKED THROUGH THE NARROW VIA DOLOROSA" />
+<span class="caption">WE WALKED THROUGH THE NARROW VIA DOLOROSA.
+</span>
+</div>
+<p>"This is the Chapel of the Apparition," explained
+the guide, after leading us to another part of the church.
+"Here the Lord appeared to Mary, His mother, after the
+Resurrection. In a niche beside the high altar is a hole
+in the wall. If you hold your taper up to it you may
+see within the wall a part of the column to which the
+Savior was bound during the Flagellation. You may
+touch the sacred column with this round stick, provided
+for the purpose, if you wish to do so. The stick, being
+worn smooth by the numberless kisses that have been
+pressed upon it by the pilgrims after touching the holy
+column, can do it no harm."</p>
+
+<p>In a vestibule outside the chapel a star in the marble
+floor marks the place where Christ appeared to Mary
+Magdalene after the Resurrection, and a second star
+a few feet beyond marks the spot where Mary stood
+when she recognized the risen Lord.</p>
+
+<p>We passed from the rotunda into the Church of the
+Crusaders or Greek Church, through a wide opening
+directly opposite the door of the Holy Sepulchre. In
+this large chapel the walls and ceilings, the seats of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_234" id="Page_234">[Pg 234]</a></span>
+choir, the high altar, and the seat of the Patriarch in
+the rear of the altar, are composed of precious woods
+beautifully carved and ornamented with gold and silver
+and jewels. Hundreds of superb golden and silver
+lamps, varying in form and design, hang suspended
+from the ceiling at various heights. In the centre of
+the chapel, standing in the middle of a fancifully designed
+circle on the checkered marble floor, is an urn containing
+a marble ball.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 250px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus240.jpg" width="250" height="326" alt="THE VERY STONES HIS SACRED FEET HAVE PRESSED." title="THE VERY STONES HIS SACRED FEET HAVE PRESSED." />
+<span class="caption">THE VERY STONES HIS SACRED FEET HAVE PRESSED.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>"This ball marks the centre of the world," explained
+the guide, as we halted beside the urn. "About eight
+centuries ago certain wise and holy men ascertained,
+by calculation or by inspiration, that this spot is the
+exact centre of the world. It was marked in this
+manner so that the pilgrims coming here from all parts
+of the earth might see it and carry the knowledge of the
+wonderful discovery back with them to their various
+countries."</p>
+
+<p>Beyond the Greek Chapel we descended, by aid of
+our burning tapers, a flight of thirty stone steps to the
+ancient, dimly-lit Chapel of St. Helena.</p>
+
+<p>"When the Empress Helena was inspired to search
+for the true cross," said the guide, "she employed
+workmen to excavate here. There is the seat on which
+she sat while superintending the search, and there below
+us is the excavation in which she found the three crosses,
+the crown of thorns, the nails, and the inscription."</p>
+
+<p>We peered into the darkness below but could see only
+a gloomy hole about eight feet deep and twenty feet
+across, a short flight of steps cut in the rock, and an
+altar at one side.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_235" id="Page_235">[Pg 235]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus242.jpg" width="500" height="414" alt="THE OLD STREET OF SORROW LIES BURIED TWENTY FEET BELOW." title="THE OLD STREET OF SORROW LIES BURIED TWENTY FEET BELOW." />
+<span class="caption">THE OLD STREET OF SORROW LIES BURIED TWENTY FEET BELOW.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Reascending to the main floor, we halted at the
+Chapel of the Mocking. There the guide showed us the
+stone upon which the Jews made Jesus sit while they
+crowned Him with thorns. The guide then led the way
+up a flight of steps to the Chapel of Golgotha, which is
+within the great structure of the church but upon the
+summit of a rock fifteen feet higher than the main floor.
+At one side of this chapel, where the rock itself projects
+slightly above the floor, a figure of the Christ in dying
+agony is suspended upon the cross, and at the foot of the
+cross stand the figures of Mary, His mother, and St.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_236" id="Page_236">[Pg 236]</a></span>
+John, both dejected and sorrowful. These figures
+appear to be made of gold and silver. The crowns
+on their heads are covered with diamonds, rubies,
+emeralds, and other precious stones. A hole in the
+rock surrounded by a gold plate marks the place where
+the original cross stood. On the right and left are the
+holes where stood the crosses of the thieves. A movable
+gold plate covers the crevice in the rock caused by the
+earthquake. In this chapel the pictures on the walls
+are encircled with diamonds and other precious stones.
+Adjoining this room is the Chapel of the Crucifixion,
+where, as the guide informed us, Christ was nailed to the
+cross, and close by is the place where the Virgin Mary
+stood during the Crucifixion.</p>
+
+<p>Descending a flight of steps to the main floor, we
+entered a small cavern-like chamber.</p>
+
+<p>"This," said the guide, "is the Tomb of Adam, and
+the little chapel beyond is the Tomb of Melchizedek."</p>
+
+<p>When one of the ladies, doubting the truth of these
+traditions, excitedly began to remonstrate with the
+guide, a clergyman in the party said to her: "It is
+not worth while to enter into a dispute with the guide.
+You cannot convince him that his assertions are incorrect.
+Let us leave the topic for discussion in the evening
+when we cannot go out sight-seeing."</p>
+
+<p>We departed from the Church of the Sepulchre with
+the intention of returning without a guide to inspect
+portions of the building more leisurely. Preceded by
+the guide, we walked through the narrow Via Dolorosa,
+pausing a moment at each of the fourteen stations, which
+mark the location of the historical and traditional events<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_237" id="Page_237">[Pg 237]</a></span>
+that occurred in the street of sorrow. After the guide
+had explained the route, one of the tourists devoutly
+said: "Little did I think a year ago that I should walk
+along the very path that has been stained by the blood
+drops of the Savior on His way to the Cross, and tread
+perhaps on the very stones that His sacred feet have
+pressed."</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus244.jpg" width="500" height="414" alt="AT THE ENTRANCE TO SOLOMON&#39;S QUARRIES." title="AT THE ENTRANCE TO SOLOMON&#39;S QUARRIES." />
+<span class="caption">AT THE ENTRANCE TO SOLOMON&#39;S QUARRIES.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>A few minutes later we were admitted to a convent
+on the Via Dolorosa. One of the gray-gowned nuns,
+after exhibiting and offering for sale laces and embroideries
+made by the sisters, led us to an excavation in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_238" id="Page_238">[Pg 238]</a></span>
+the rear of the convent. There a courteous Abbess met
+us, and said: "The excavation made here uncovered a
+part of the original Via Dolorosa. The old way lies
+buried twenty feet below the level of the modern street
+known by that name, and at this place is one hundred
+feet to the right of the one on which you were walking."</p>
+
+<p>"You must bear in mind the history of Jerusalem,"
+continued the Abbess in reply to our questions. "Forty
+years after the Crucifixion Titus captured the city,
+demolished the buildings, and slaughtered the inhabitants.
+Jerusalem became 'heaps' and a 'desolation' as
+predicted by the holy prophets. For a century thereafter
+a village of huts built upon the ruins occupied the
+site of the city; then the idolatrous Emperor Hadrian
+rebuilt the city, laying out the streets to suit his pagan
+ideas, and for two centuries it was a pagan city whose
+people were devoted to the worship of strange gods and
+regarded not the sacred places. Three hundred years
+after the Ascension of our Savior, the blessed St.
+Helena, mother of the Emperor Constantine, made a
+pilgrimage from Constantinople to Jerusalem. Inspired
+with holy zeal, she gave orders for the erection of
+churches on the sites of the Nativity at Bethlehem and
+the Ascension at Olivet. She prayerfully sought for the
+sacred tomb in which the Lord had been laid, and her
+efforts were rewarded by the finding of the true cross.
+She cleared away the accumulated rubbish and built
+the chapel on the holy ground, and that chapel has
+grown into the great Church of the Holy Sepulchre.
+Afterwards the locations of the events on the way to
+the cross were marked on the modern street to corre<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_240" id="Page_240">[Pg 240]</a></span>spond
+as nearly as possible to the places on the ancient
+street which lay buried many feet below. The finding
+of a part of the true Via Dolorosa in the excavation
+within our enclosure has been a blessing to the convent."</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus246.jpg" width="500" height="305" alt="WITH FACE TURNED TO THE WALL, KISSING IT AND MUTTERING PRAYERS." title="WITH FACE TURNED TO THE WALL, KISSING IT AND MUTTERING PRAYERS." />
+<span class="caption">WITH FACE TURNED TO THE WALL, KISSING IT AND MUTTERING PRAYERS.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The Abbess deserved and received more than spoken
+thanks for her courtesy. We realized then the truth
+of her last words.</p>
+
+<p>During our walk we visited an old Armenian church,
+which was gaudily decorated with red brocade hangings
+and very antiquated paintings quaintly representing
+scenes from Bible history. In the court-yard of the
+church a young Armenian kindly offered us a pitcher
+of water, which he said had been brought from a spring
+outside the city for the use of the monks in the adjoining
+convent. We received it most gratefully, for the drinking
+water of Jerusalem is noted for impurity, and, as
+we had been cautioned against it, we had abstained
+from drinking water for three days.</p>
+
+<p>"Will it be difficult for the tourists to find their way
+through the narrow crooked streets of the city without
+a guide?" inquired one of the ladies of the dragoman at
+the noon hour.</p>
+
+<p>"Oh no!" he replied. "Please open your map. I
+notice you have one. You see that the city is divided
+into four marked sections by the two principal streets
+which cross each other at right angles: David street
+extending from the Jaffa Gate at the west, through the
+center of the city, to the Temple Area at the east; and
+Damascus street extending from the Damascus Gate
+on the north, through the center of the city, to the
+Zion Gate on the south. The bazaars and little stores<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_241" id="Page_241">[Pg 241]</a></span>
+that tourists visit are on these two streets, on Christian
+street near the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, and in the
+vicinity of the Jaffa Gate. The Church of the Holy
+Sepulchre is in the north-west section of the city, known
+as the Christian Quarter; the Via Dolorosa passes
+through the north-east section, called the Moslem
+Quarter; the Temple Area is on the east side; the Wailing
+Place of the Jews is near the south-west corner of the
+Temple Area, in the south-east or Jewish Quarter; and
+the Citadel is in the south-west of Armenian Quarter.
+Jerusalem is not a large city. David Street is only half
+a mile in length, and Damascus Street from the gate
+on the north to the gate on the south is but three-fourths
+of a mile long."</p>
+
+<p>"This afternoon," said the guide at the noon hour
+on Friday, "those of you who desire to do so may go
+with me to the Wailing Place of the Jews. The Turkish
+authorities do not permit Jews to enter the Temple
+Area so the Jews, on Friday afternoons, congregate in
+a narrow court, outside and adjoining the western wall
+which encloses the Temple Area, to mourn over the
+downfall of their beloved Zion and pray for the return
+of Jewish dominion over the land of their fathers, and
+for the renewal of the ancient glory of the City of
+David."</p>
+
+<p>When we arrived at the Wailing Place, we found about
+a hundred Jewish men, women, and children assembled
+in the court, with faces turned to the wall, the men at
+one end of the court, the women at the other. Some
+of the mourners pressed their faces against the wall,
+kissing it and muttering prayers; some, as the guide<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_242" id="Page_242">[Pg 242]</a></span>
+explained to us, were reading the Talmud; some reciting
+verses from the Lamentations of Jeremiah; and
+some chanting the penitential Psalms of David.
+Others we saw weeping, the tears running down their
+faces, while one or two looked around with curious
+gaze at the strangers.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus249.jpg" width="500" height="405" alt="PITIED THOSE MISERABLE LEPERS AT THE GATE." title="PITIED THOSE MISERABLE LEPERS AT THE GATE." />
+<span class="caption">PITIED THOSE MISERABLE LEPERS AT THE GATE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Thence we returned through portions of the Mohammedan
+and Jewish quarters of the city. The narrow
+streets through which we passed,&mdash;if passage-ways ten
+feet wide may be called streets,&mdash;are lined with little
+stores. The stocks of provisions, groceries, bread,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_243" id="Page_243">[Pg 243]</a></span>
+vegetables, and general merchandise for native consumption
+are displayed in the open fronts of the
+shallow store-rooms and the proprietors sit or stand
+outside waiting for customers, like huge spiders waiting
+for their prey, or with loud voices and many gesticulations
+bargain with the buyers.</p>
+
+<p>The streets of the Mohammedan Quarter are filthy;
+those of the Jewish Quarter are worse.</p>
+
+<p>"Are these alleys ever swept or cleaned?" inquired
+one of the disgusted visitors.</p>
+
+<p>"Oh, yes!" answered the guide, "the city, being
+built on the hills, has a natural drainage. Whenever
+there is a heavy rain the flowing water washes the
+streets."</p>
+
+<p>"Well," said the visitor, "the city of Constantinople
+has the reputation of being the filthiest city in Europe,
+but it has a brigade of canine street cleaners to assist
+the rainfalls in cleaning the thoroughfares. If the city
+of Jerusalem were in Europe, it could easily claim the
+leading place in respect to filth; for dogs are few here
+and heavy rains do not appear to be frequent."</p>
+
+<p>The tramp through these quarters was not agreeable
+to any of the senses. The ears were annoyed with the
+jargon of many dialects; the harsh voices of the natives,
+the loud exclamations of the dealers, and the whining
+cries of the beggars for backsheesh. The eyes were
+offended by the sight of the crowds of dirty beggars,
+who stretched out hands in appeal and tried to clutch
+the garments of the tourists with their dirty fingers,
+until disgust drove away all feelings of pity. The odors
+from the foul thoroughfares, from the messes of soft<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_244" id="Page_244">[Pg 244]</a></span>
+cheese and mixtures of eatables offered for sale, from
+the discarded and decaying cauliflower leaves under
+neath the stalls, from the pipes of Turkish tobacco,
+and from the donkeys and unbathed human beings
+with whom the tourists came in close contact, were inhaled
+with loathing. The uneven, stone-cobbled paving
+of the narrow streets without sidewalks, the steps up
+and down the grades, and the slippery condition of the
+muddy surface when wet caused weary feet.</p>
+
+<p>"I will not give away another piaster," exclaimed
+a lady whose purse had been drawn upon frequently
+during our tramp. "I never met such disagreeable
+beggars. There were many beggars in other cities, but
+they did not whine and display their dirty rags so disgustingly
+as these do. I pitied those miserable lepers
+at the gate, but when I threw them some money they
+crowded around and tried to touch me with their diseased
+hands, instead of keeping at a distance and crying,
+'Unclean! Unclean!"'</p>
+
+<p>The beggars were the most objectionable feature of
+the city; they persisted in following visitors and it was
+almost impossible to drive them away. When rid of
+one lot, others soon took their place. Repulsive cripples
+insisted on calling attention to their deformities; sore-eyed
+children clamored for assistance; and little tots
+with dirty, fly-covered faces, shrilly prattled "Backsheesh."
+The streets were full of these wretched creatures;
+they congregated near the sacred places and there
+the clamor was so annoying that the tourists had little
+opportunity for contemplation until they were inside
+the buildings and away from the beggars' entreaties.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_245" id="Page_245">[Pg 245]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus252.jpg" width="500" height="310" alt="PILGRIMS FROM EVERY QUARTER OF THE GLOBE." title="PILGRIMS FROM EVERY QUARTER OF THE GLOBE." />
+<span class="caption">PILGRIMS FROM EVERY QUARTER OF THE GLOBE.</span>
+</div><p>
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_246" id="Page_246">[Pg 246]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>We made several visits to the Church of the Holy
+Sepulchre in order to observe the people; to view quietly
+and leisurely the gorgeous decorations, especially those
+in the Greek Chapel where each visit disclosed new
+beauties; and to see the jewels, precious gems, and
+pictures encircled in diamonds, in the Chapel of Golgotha.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus253.jpg" width="500" height="421" alt="PASSED OUT THROUGH THE DAMASCUS GATE." title="PASSED OUT THROUGH THE DAMASCUS GATE." />
+<span class="caption">PASSED OUT THROUGH THE DAMASCUS GATE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>During one of these visits we sat for awhile on a bench
+by the wall of the church not far from the entrance to the
+Sepulchre. It was interesting to note the diversity
+of costumes and to watch the difference in the behavior
+of the tourists and pilgrims of the various nationalities.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_247" id="Page_247">[Pg 247]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus254a.jpg" width="500" height="138" alt="I. FIELDS WERE COVERED WITH STONES." title="I. FIELDS WERE COVERED WITH STONES." />
+<span class="caption">I. FIELDS WERE COVERED WITH STONES.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus254b.jpg" width="500" height="140" alt="II. FAR BELOW LAY THE VALLEY OF JEHOSHAPHAT." title="II. FAR BELOW LAY THE VALLEY OF JEHOSHAPHAT." />
+<span class="caption">II. FAR BELOW LAY THE VALLEY OF JEHOSHAPHAT.</span>
+</div><p>
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_248" id="Page_248">[Pg 248]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>"Notice that Russian group," said a companion as a
+party of Russian pilgrims entered the church.</p>
+
+<p>These people from the North, long-haired, heavy-bearded,
+long-booted, heavy-coated men, and short-frocked,
+heavy-shod women had come there, we could
+plainly see, on a holy pilgrimage to the tomb of their
+Savior, believing and trusting in the reality of everything
+they saw. At the Stone of Unction they prostrated
+themselves and kissed the stone slab, and as they
+rose we could see the shaggy-bearded men wiping away
+the tears with their rough hands. Then, with uncovered
+heads, they slowly approached the entrance to the
+Sepulchre, bowed down, crossed themselves, knelt
+inside, and after kissing the marble tomb, backed out,
+bowing and crossing themselves until well away from
+the tomb.</p>
+
+<p>"The people of other nationalities outwardly show
+more reverence for the sacred places than do those of
+our own country," commented my companion. "The
+guards have just censured that group of Americans on
+the other side of the room. I could not hear what was
+said, but the actions of the guards spoke louder than
+words, and I noticed that the loud talking ceased at
+once."</p>
+
+<p>The party of Americans came laughing and chatting
+toward the Sepulchre and entered the tomb without any
+appearance of reverence in their manner,&mdash;a striking
+contrast to the devout Russian pilgrims. Other Americans,
+however, following, entered the tomb silently,
+and came out with a look of awe upon their faces.
+One of these told us that he had placed some postal<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_249" id="Page_249">[Pg 249]</a></span>
+cards and letters on the tomb to be blessed by contact
+with it before mailing them to his friends. Another
+had taken some bunches of flowers and laid them on the
+tomb for the same purpose before pressing them for
+souvenirs. A party of Germans stood near us for
+awhile, apparently arguing in low tones over some statement
+of the guide, and then quietly and with uncovered
+heads advanced and entered the Sepulchre. Some
+Italians knelt for a long time before the door, and
+Africans, Greeks, and natives of countries unknown
+to us, bowed or crossed their foreheads or breasts before
+the entrance. No other nationality, however, showed
+such zeal and intensity of feeling as did the Russian
+peasants.</p>
+
+<p>On Saturday afternoon we visited the Church of the
+Holy Sepulchre to be present at the special service held
+on that day. We found that the number of guards at
+the door had been doubled, and that companies of
+armed Turkish soldiers had been stationed within to
+preserve order in the assembled throng of sight-seers and
+worshipers and to keep a passage-way open through
+which the expected processions might pass. Pushing
+our way through the crowd we obtained a good position
+behind some Syrian women and children who, attired
+in gala costumes, held unlighted candles in their hands.
+At the Place of Sepulchre the oriental lamps above the
+door and the candles in the huge candlesticks had been
+lighted for the special service, brilliantly illuminating
+the marble front of that small building and bringing
+into clear relief every detail of the carved ornamentation.
+In the Greek Chapel the golden lamps and the candles<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_250" id="Page_250">[Pg 250]</a></span>
+at the altar were burning, and the chapel was ablaze
+with reflected glory.</p>
+
+<p>"They are coming," whispered some one as the
+tramping of feet on the stone floor was heard.</p>
+
+<p>A procession of Greek priests in gorgeous garments,
+swinging censers of smoking incense and bearing aloft
+a golden cross, marched to the Sepulchre, made obeisance
+there, then proceeded slowly around the building several
+times and entered the Greek Chapel where a short
+service was held. After the Greeks had left the building,
+a procession of Armenian priests appeared clad in black
+silk robes and peculiar looking black silk hoods draped
+over their heads. They were led by a venerable Patriarch
+arrayed in a magnificent embroidered robe. The
+Patriarch knelt and kissed the Stone of Unction, then
+the procession marched singing to the Sepulchre, which
+they entered, two priests at a time. After this part
+of the ceremony was concluded the priests marched
+singing three times around the room, while a bell in
+the gallery merrily clanged an accompaniment. When
+the Armenians had withdrawn, a procession of Roman
+Catholics entered singing. The chanting was accompanied
+softly by an organ in an adjoining chapel. The
+censer bearers waved their smoking bowls until the
+whole place was fragrant with the odor of the incense.
+Tonsured monks with sandaled feet, in gowns of brown,
+girt with hempen cord; censer bearers, cross bearers,
+brazier bearers, and choir boys in white embroidered
+surplices and skirts of scarlet; priests in black; bishops
+in purple; and higher dignitaries in capes of fur and
+long-trained robes,&mdash;all these marched round and round<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_251" id="Page_251">[Pg 251]</a></span>
+bearing lighted candles and chanting the ritual to the
+strains of the organ, and then proceeded toward the
+Latin Chapel. Our Syrian neighbor and her children
+lighted their candles and joined other worshipers with
+candles in the rear of this procession, and we followed
+to the Chapel where all knelt for service.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus258.jpg" width="500" height="541" alt="DAVID STREET IS ONLY HALF A MILE IN LENGTH." title="DAVID STREET IS ONLY HALF A MILE IN LENGTH." />
+<span class="caption">DAVID STREET IS ONLY HALF A MILE IN LENGTH.</span>
+</div><p>
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_252" id="Page_252">[Pg 252]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Palestine appeared to us to be a land where history
+and tradition were so curiously mixed that it was difficult
+to know where history ended and tradition began. During
+our tramps around the city of Jerusalem and its
+vicinity the guides pointed out the spring where the
+Virgin Mary washed the clothes of the infant Jesus in the
+same way that we saw other women in the East washing
+clothes on the banks of public streams; the hill of evil
+counsel where the avaricious disciple had been tempted
+by gold to betray his Master, and the field where the
+horror-stricken traitor ended his life; the place just
+without the Gate of St. Stephen where the sainted
+Stephen knelt and prayed for his persecutors until the
+stones cast by the infuriated Jews crushed out his life;
+the spot where the Apostle James was beheaded,
+commemorated by the church of St. James which now
+stands on that location; the large room outside the Zion
+Gate in which the Lord washed the disciples' feet and
+partook of the Last Supper; the tomb of the wayward,
+long-haired Absalom, and the mausoleum that covers
+the resting-place of his father, King David; the footprint
+of Jesus in the rock and the hole made by His
+staff on the Mount of Olives; the imprints of the
+Savior's feet in the rocky floor made during the time
+of the scourging; the site of the house in which the
+Virgin lived with the disciple John after the Crucifixion.</p>
+
+<p>Palestine was noted in olden times as a land flowing
+with milk and honey. At the Casa Nova we drank
+of the milk, the milk of the black-haired goats that fed
+along the hillsides, and ate of the honey, which was of
+delicious flavor. The Syrian waiters who served our<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_253" id="Page_253">[Pg 253]</a></span>
+meals and also cared for our bedrooms were picturesquely
+dressed in long gowns of blue striped material falling
+to their ankles, and encircled with bright sashes, and
+these men at all times, whether making beds or serving
+tables, wore on their heads the red fez of Turkish subjects.
+The managers of the Hospice, the Franciscan
+monks, wore the garb in which the monks of that order
+are always seen, brown gown, rope girdle, rosary with
+pendant cross, and sandals.</p>
+
+<p>On Sunday a cold rain fell during the day, making it
+unpleasant for sight-seeing and confining the travelers
+to the house during most of the day.</p>
+
+<p>"How disappointing this is to be kept in the house by
+the rain," exclaimed a discontented tourist while
+watching the rain drops glide down the window-pane.</p>
+
+<p>"Have you thought," said another who was busily
+engaged with guide-book and pencil, "that until to-day
+not one unpleasant day has interfered with our trip?
+The temperature has been neither uncomfortably warm
+nor disagreeably cold, but just delightful for the exertion
+of sight-seeing."</p>
+
+<p>The tourists having made a request for some heat in
+the house, one of the gowned Arab servants carried a
+brazier into the reception room, placed a handful of
+charcoal in it and lighted a fire. As we gathered around
+the little fire trying to warm our hands, one could
+realize the scene many centuries ago, in the Palace of
+Caiaphas, when the soldiers coming in at midnight from
+the cold hills, kindled a fire in the midst of the hall, and
+Peter, shivering from cold and fear, joined the group
+around the brazier to warm himself.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_254" id="Page_254">[Pg 254]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>"I have been trying for the past three days," remarked
+an elderly clergyman, "to realize that these
+bare hills were once 'a land flowing with milk and honey,'
+producing 'grapes, pomegranates, and figs' in abundance.
+To-day I have been thinking of the changes that the
+tempests of a few short years have made in the hills of my
+own native state, New Hampshire, since the rapacious
+lumber-men have been denuding our mountains of the
+forests. There, the unprotected soil is being washed
+away by the heavy rains, gulleys have been formed, the
+brooks have diminished or dried up, and the part of our
+once beautiful White Mountains that has been cut over
+is desolate indeed. Now, since thinking of the changes
+that have occurred in a decade at home. I can more
+fully realize the changes that centuries have made here.</p>
+
+<p>"Looking backward," said he, "I can see more
+clearly in my mind the picture that David saw with
+the eye of an artist, and described with the heart of a
+poet, when these bare, gray, rocky, treeless hills were
+crowned with forests that protected the soil from the
+beating storms; when these slopes, now furrowed with
+gulleys and spread with stones, were covered with
+orchards and clad with verdure, where the flocks might
+'lie down midst pastures of tender grass;' and when
+these dried up waterways were purling brooks, where the
+flocks were 'led beside the waters of quietness.' I
+believe that David's description of this country was a
+true picture of the land as it appeared then. 'Thou
+waterest the ridges thereof abundantly; thou settlest
+the furrows thereof; thou makest it soft with showers;
+thou blessest the springing thereof. The pastures are<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_256" id="Page_256">[Pg 256]</a></span>
+clothed with flocks; the valleys also are covered over
+with corn; they shout for joy, they also sing.'"</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus262.jpg" width="500" height="289" alt="WHEN THESE BARE HILLS WERE COVERED WITH ORCHARDS AND CLAD WITH VERDURE." title="WHEN THESE BARE HILLS WERE COVERED WITH ORCHARDS AND CLAD WITH VERDURE." />
+<span class="caption">WHEN THESE BARE HILLS WERE COVERED WITH ORCHARDS AND CLAD WITH VERDURE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>"In those days the vicinity of Jerusalem was beautiful
+with palm trees," continued the clergyman, "and the
+City of Palms was but fifteen miles away. Now the
+City of Palms is a squalid, unhealthful village, and in the
+vicinity of Jerusalem it is difficult to obtain a leaf of the
+palm."</p>
+
+<p>The low spirits caused by the drizzling rain during
+our last evening in the Sacred City were increased by
+telegraphic news received from Jaffa. The telegram
+stated that the weather was stormy and the waves running
+high, and that if the sea did not subside we might
+not be able to embark. This information caused considerable
+anxiety among the timid members of the party
+and many surmises were made as to the developments
+of the following day. As usual, all the arrangements
+for our departure had been carefully made in advance
+by our managers. We were notified that the Syrian
+bell boys would waken us at five o'clock, and our baggage
+must be ready at five-thirty; breakfast would be
+served at six o'clock; the carriages would be at the
+Jaffa Gate at six-thirty; and the train would leave the
+Jerusalem station at seven.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_257" id="Page_257">[Pg 257]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XIII" id="CHAPTER_XIII"></a>CHAPTER XIII.</h2>
+
+<p class="center">CAIRO AND THE PYRAMIDS.</p>
+
+
+<p>On Monday morning, after enjoying our usual
+breakfast at the Casa Nova of boiled eggs,
+rolls and pure honey, good coffee, and delicious
+oranges, we bade farewell to our tonsured hosts and the
+staff of gowned attendants. The carriages were waiting
+near the Jaffa Gate to convey us to the station. The
+train moved off promptly at the appointed hour, and
+looking backward, we took our farewell glimpse of the
+Tower of David and the yellow walls of the Holy City.</p>
+
+<p>During the three hours' ride to Jaffa the threatening
+clouds passed away, the sun re-appeared, the rough
+winds changed to soft breezes, and our depressed spirits
+rose correspondingly. By the time the orange groves
+in the suburbs of Jaffa came into sight, the tourists
+were in a gay and cheerful humor. But when we arrived
+at the pier of Jaffa, we discovered that the sea
+still felt the effects of the gale. The surf was rolling
+high and the angry waves were breaking violently over
+the ugly-looking rocks in the harbor, hiding them for
+an instant from view and sending the snowy spray high
+into the air. As we looked out toward the Moltke riding
+at anchor a mile away, many of the gay faces became
+sober. The boatmen holding the tossing boats to the
+pier urged us to embark.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_258" id="Page_258">[Pg 258]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">"But timorous mortals start and shrink to cross the narrow sea,</span><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 1em;">And linger trembling on the brink and fear to launch away"</span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>"Oh, I cannot venture! Go without me! Leave me
+behind!" exclaimed one of the ladies, trembling and
+almost fainting through fear. "Those black rocks
+momentarily emerging and disappearing seem like the
+heads of terrible monsters waiting to devour us as soon
+as we come within their reach."</p>
+
+<p>"Do not be alarmed," said one of the officials on the
+pier, encouragingly. "The sea, as you say, has a
+threatening look, but I assure you that if there were any
+danger we would not permit you to attempt the passage.
+These Syrian boatmen have been carrying passengers
+for years and know every rock in the harbor. They
+brought the Damascus tourists from the Moltke without
+mishap this morning when the sea was rougher than now.
+Trust the boatmen and you will soon be safely on board
+the steamer."</p>
+
+<p>As our boat in its passage over the stormy billows
+plunged downward into the trough of the sea, and
+horizon, ship, and land were hidden from view, we
+thought that the uplifted, on-coming crests of the waves
+would engulf the boat beneath them; but, expertly
+handled by the trained rowers, the craft rose with each
+immense surge and safely passed the breakers. The
+Syrian boatmen, who had been continually chanting
+their hymns to Allah while plying their oars, suddenly
+stopped singing.</p>
+
+<p>"Bachsheesh! Backsheesh!" they cried, ceasing to
+row, while one of them, doffing his fez, passed it around
+the boat for contributions. The passengers, grateful<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_260" id="Page_260">[Pg 260]</a></span>
+for safety, dropped their coins into the fez; again the
+oars were put in motion, the chant was resumed, and in
+a few minutes the boats were alongside the vessel.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus266.jpg" width="500" height="283" alt="SHE WAS WASHING CLOTHES IN THE CANAL." title="SHE WAS WASHING CLOTHES IN THE CANAL." />
+<span class="caption">SHE WAS WASHING CLOTHES IN THE CANAL.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Then came the difficulty of getting on board the
+steamer; for the little boat lay underneath the platform
+at the foot of the ship's ladder, tossed by the billows.
+As each heaving swell, however, bore the boat upward,
+two sturdy seamen on the platform, reaching down,
+grasped a passenger's arms and drew him up while the
+boatmen assisted from underneath. In this way, one
+with each wave, the tourists safely embarked. The
+passage from the pier to the steamer affected the tourists
+in various ways: many were frightened, notwithstanding
+the assertion of the official that the dangers were more
+apparent than real; others were exhilarated by the
+tossing waves and enjoyed the thrilling experience.</p>
+
+<p>"I was so interested in watching the muscular development
+of the boatmen as they pulled at the oars, and in admiring
+the dexterity and skill with which they managed
+the boat, that I did not think of danger," remarked
+a man who had been stroke oar on a college crew.</p>
+
+<p>While the tourists were being transferred to the ship,
+the band on deck was playing "Home, Sweet Home,"
+and the Captain and other officers standing at the head
+of the stairway gave a friendly greeting to the wanderers
+as they came on board.</p>
+
+<p>"It is pleasant to be welcomed back in this friendly
+manner," remarked one of the ramblers to another
+as they entered their cabin, "and then it is so homelike
+here in our stateroom, with our photographs and nick-nacks
+pinned around the walls."<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_261" id="Page_261">[Pg 261]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus268.jpg" width="500" height="286" alt="BELOW THE CITADEL WE SAW AN OPEN-AIR MARKET." title="BELOW THE CITADEL WE SAW AN OPEN-AIR MARKET." />
+<span class="caption">BELOW THE CITADEL WE SAW AN OPEN-AIR MARKET.</span>
+</div><p>
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_262" id="Page_262">[Pg 262]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>A busy afternoon of re-packing followed the departure
+from Jaffa, for on the following day the tourists were
+to leave the steamer at Alexandria to remain twelve
+days in Egypt. Clothing that was considered suitable
+for the climate of that warmer region was carefully
+selected and condensed into the smaller receptacles,
+and every article that the tourists supposed would not
+be required was left in the staterooms.</p>
+
+<p>On Tuesday morning, March tenth, at seven o'clock,
+the Moltke was anchored in the commodious port of
+Alexandria, which is enclosed by long stone breakwaters
+that have been built into the sea to protect the harbor.
+Many vessels were at the docks or at anchor in the port,
+and a handsome white yacht flying the imperial flag of
+Germany lay within a stone's throw of our steamer.</p>
+
+<p>"The Crown Prince of the German Empire is visiting
+Egypt and that is his yacht," said one of the officers.</p>
+
+<p>The morning was bright and clear. It was a delight
+to breathe the warm salt air and feel its invigoration.
+Overhead the sky was brilliantly blue and the sea reflected
+it in various hues.</p>
+
+<p>"Did you ever see such wonderful coloring on the
+waters of sea or river?" asked an enthusiastic beholder.
+"Near by the sea sparkles in the morning sunlight in
+azure and olive and darkens into sapphire and emerald,
+and there beyond the breakwater it changes to tints of
+violet and purple. I have heard that the colors of the
+Mediterranean are beautiful; now I know they are."</p>
+
+<p>The row boats that were to carry us ashore gathered
+around the steamer. The bare-footed boatmen, with
+faces of various shades from light yellow to intense<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_264" id="Page_264">[Pg 264]</a></span>
+black, were attired in red fez, white bloomers, and long
+red sweaters.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus270a.jpg" width="500" height="140" alt="" title="" />
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus270b.jpg" width="500" height="140" alt="AT THE NILE BRIDGE WE WAITED FOR THE DRAW TO CLOSE." title="AT THE NILE BRIDGE WE WAITED FOR THE DRAW TO CLOSE." />
+<span class="caption">AT THE NILE BRIDGE WE WAITED FOR THE DRAW TO CLOSE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>At the custom house on the dock the custom officials
+accepted the statement of the managers that the baggage
+of the tourists contained nothing dutiable, and the
+baggage was passed without examination. A special
+train was on the pier ready to convey the party to
+Cairo. Beggars and peddlers attempted to approach
+the train to ask alms or sell their wares, but were driven
+away with whips by black Nubian soldiers in dark blue
+uniforms, who appeared to take delight in snapping at
+the bare legs of the intruders.</p>
+
+<p>It was just noon when our train, the second special
+section, moved out of Alexandria through long rows of
+large warehouses; for Alexandria is the chief seaport
+of Egypt and exports the cotton, grain, sugar, rice, and
+other productions of the valley of the Nile. As the
+train passed rapidly southward through the delta of the
+Nile, we realized that we were in a land entirely different
+from any that we had previously visited. The trip
+of one hundred and thirty miles to Cairo will be remembered
+by the tourists as a panoramic succession of
+interesting pictures of agricultural life. The land on
+both sides of the railway was a black, sandy loam, level
+almost as a floor, intersected and broken only by the
+canals and irrigation ditches. For some distance out
+of Alexandria the Mahmudiyeh canal was in sight.</p>
+
+<p>"There is a scene that is familiar to me!" exclaimed
+one of the party. "A landscape hanging in the art
+gallery of our city represents the light blue water of a
+canal mirroring tufted palms and wing-like sails. It<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_266" id="Page_266">[Pg 266]</a></span>
+was painted by a noted artist, who has successfully
+reproduced many beautiful Egyptian views."</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus272.jpg" width="500" height="341" alt="&quot;WANT A GUIDE? WANT A GUIDE?&quot; THEY INQUIRED." title="&quot;WANT A GUIDE? WANT A GUIDE?&quot; THEY INQUIRED." />
+<span class="caption">&quot;WANT A GUIDE? WANT A GUIDE?&quot; THEY INQUIRED.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Nile boats with breeze-filled canvas, caravans of
+camels on the embankment of the canal, and trains
+of donkeys laden with marketing for the city by the sea,
+seemed stationary as we rushed by. The land appeared
+to be thoroughly cultivated. There were no fences or
+waste corners in sight. Every foot of workable ground
+was utilized for raising crops.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus273.jpg" width="500" height="216" alt="EACH ARAB&#39;S CART CONTAINED HIS WIVES." title="EACH ARAB&#39;S CART CONTAINED HIS WIVES." />
+<span class="caption">EACH ARAB&#39;S CART CONTAINED HIS WIVES.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>"Irrigation makes this almost rainless region the
+most fruitful on the globe," remarked one of the managers
+of the tour. "By the aid of irrigation the Egyptian
+farmers can raise two or three crops every year.
+To do so, however, they must labor incessantly and
+give the land thorough cultivation. Irrigation with
+them is not opening the gates of a sluiceway and letting
+the water flow over the land. It means severe labor,
+pumping the water up from the ditches, canals, or
+river, in which the surface of the water may be ten or<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_268" id="Page_268">[Pg 268]</a></span>
+twenty feet below the surface of the land. The pumps
+are the same kind that the people used in the days of
+the Pharaohs, and the methods of cultivation are the
+same as in those ancient times, without modern agricultural
+implements or modern machinery. Three crops,
+therefore, does not mean great prosperity, but simply
+enables the Egyptian farmer to pay taxes that would
+seem enormous to an American farmer, and then to have
+a surplus sufficient to supply his very moderate wants."</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus274.jpg" width="500" height="292" alt="WHERE EGYPTIANS OF MANY TYPES WERE ASSEMBLED." title="WHERE EGYPTIANS OF MANY TYPES WERE ASSEMBLED." />
+<span class="caption">WHERE EGYPTIANS OF MANY TYPES WERE ASSEMBLED.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The monotony of the level stretches was varied by
+groups of palm trees whose tall rough trunks upheld
+graceful heads of outstretched, drooping leaves, and by
+villages of small mud huts roofed with stalks of sugar-cane,
+sufficient, we imagined, in that dry country, to
+protect the inmates from the burning noonday heat,
+and to shelter them from the chilling night dews. Occasionally
+the train stopped at large and apparently
+prosperous towns, where there were substantial stone
+buildings and busy factories. At these stations Arab
+venders offered coffee, lemonade, fruit, and other refreshments
+to appease the hunger and thirst of the
+travelers.</p>
+
+<p>The fields were full of life. Each cultivated acre had
+its dark-hued laborers with hoes, or bare-legged toilers
+drawing water from the ditches for irrigating the
+thirsty land, or plowmen guiding teams of ungainly,
+striding camels or dark gray, crooked-horned oxen.
+In the lush meadows many of these curious-looking
+animals were grazing. The camels, the small donkeys,
+and the gray oxen or water-buffaloes as the natives called
+them, tied to stakes, were restricted to the pasturage<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_270" id="Page_270">[Pg 270]</a></span>
+within reach of their tethers. Along some of the irrigating
+canals naked dark-skinned men and boys splashed
+about in the water, or stood unabashed on the bank of
+the stream, gazing at the passing train.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus276a.jpg" width="500" height="140" alt="I. SMALL AND HAZY IN THE DISTANCE." title="I. SMALL AND HAZY IN THE DISTANCE." />
+<span class="caption">I. SMALL AND HAZY IN THE DISTANCE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus276b.jpg" width="500" height="140" alt="II. &quot;MADAM MIGHT DROP HER SHAWL.&quot;" title="II. &quot;MADAM MIGHT DROP HER SHAWL.&quot;" />
+<span class="caption">II. &quot;MADAM MIGHT DROP HER SHAWL.&quot;</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>"Look at that scene," cried one of the passengers.
+"I wonder whether our cattle at home would not enjoy
+similar treatment."</p>
+
+<p>In the canal some naked boys were mounted on a
+buffalo, and near them an Arab, also in the water, was
+scrubbing the back of another buffalo, to the evident
+enjoyment of that animal.</p>
+
+<p>As we approached Cairo, the great valley of the delta
+narrowed, and mountain boundaries loomed up in the
+distance. Far away to the right the tops of the Pyramids,
+looking very small, silhouetted the sky. On the
+left, high hills broke the landscape, and presently the
+buildings and minarets that crowned the hills were
+outlined on the horizon. Handsome villas, beautiful
+gardens, good roads, and increasing traffic in the suburbs
+indicated the nearness of a prosperous city.</p>
+
+<p>Just four hours after leaving Alexandria our train
+entered the station at Cairo, where hotel-runners, cab-men,
+and porters gave the passengers a noisy reception.
+Complete arrangements having been made in advance
+for our party, we had time to take in the novel sights
+leisurely. The party had been divided into two sections;
+one section booked for the famous Shepheard's
+Hotel, the other section for the Hotel Grand Continental.
+The avenues through which we were driven on the way
+to the Hotel were bordered with large shade trees.
+The streets were full of life. The buildings were modern,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_272" id="Page_272">[Pg 272]</a></span>
+seemingly of French style, with a mixture of Oriental
+architecture.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus278a.jpg" width="500" height="145" alt="I. THE SAND HAD BEEN SHOVELED AWAY FROM THE SPHINX."
+title="I. THE SAND HAD BEEN SHOVELED AWAY FROM THE SPHINX." />
+<span class="caption">I. THE SAND HAD BEEN SHOVELED AWAY FROM THE SPHINX.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus278b.jpg" width="500" height="143" alt="II. THE GRANITE TEMPLE, REMAINS EMBEDDED." title="II. THE GRANITE TEMPLE, REMAINS EMBEDDED." />
+<span class="caption">II. THE GRANITE TEMPLE, REMAINS EMBEDDED.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>"What a contrast," said one, thinking aloud of the
+city we had left but two days ago, as our carriage glided
+smoothly over the well paved highways. "Did two
+cities ever present a stronger contrast than Jerusalem,
+with streets narrow, rough, filthy, and depressing to the
+spirits, and Cairo, with avenues broad, smooth, clean,
+and pleasing to the senses? The interest in the city
+of Jerusalem had to be stirred by the memorials of the
+sacred events of the past; the discomforts of the present
+had to be overlooked. The city of Cairo appeals to us
+at once as a pleasure ground with attractions on all
+sides, and the promise of comfortable surroundings."</p>
+
+<p>The hotels of Cairo are famous throughout the world
+for the magnificence of their appointments, the cosmopolitan
+character of their guests, and the novelty of the
+sights that may be seen at their doors. When we drove
+up to the Hotel Grand Continental, a military band was
+giving an afternoon concert in the beautiful Esbekieh
+Gardens opposite the hotel. On the wide pavement in
+front of the piazza of the hotel, dragomen in elaborate
+Arabic costumes were offering their services as guides
+or interpreters. "Want a guide? want a guide?" they
+inquired of all strangers who they thought might need
+such service. Arab urchins, whose hands may have
+once been clean, offered picture postal cards for sale;
+bootblacks solicited patronage and beggars asked for
+alms; match peddlers endeavored to dispose of their
+little boxes; flower sellers thrust their bouquets forward
+into notice; dealers in scarabs and miniature mummy<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_273" id="Page_273">[Pg 273]</a></span>
+cases proclaimed the virtues of their charms; and
+venders of beads offered endless varieties of their fanciful,
+colored Egyptian wares. Interest in the scene was
+heightened by the variety of the characteristic flowing
+gowns peculiar to the natives of Egypt. On the piazza,
+groups of guests were taking afternoon tea, and listening
+to the music in the park opposite, or, seated comfortably
+in wicker chairs, found amusement in watching the animated
+throng on the sidewalk; in observing the arrivals
+and departures on donkeys and in victorias; and in viewing
+the constant panoramic procession on the street.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus280.jpg" width="500" height="408" alt="MAY TAKE CAMELS OR DONKEYS AND RIDE." title="MAY TAKE CAMELS OR DONKEYS AND RIDE." />
+<span class="caption">MAY TAKE CAMELS OR DONKEYS AND RIDE.</span>
+</div><p>
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_274" id="Page_274">[Pg 274]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The head porter, in gorgeous uniform, received us with
+the air of a proprietor; Arab bell boys in bright red silk
+gowns responded to the call of the manager and conducted
+us to our rooms; and Arab men in white gowns
+brought up our luggage. There were French maids on
+each floor to attend to the calls of the ladies; but Arab
+men in spotless robes made the beds, cared for the
+rooms, and took the place of chambermaids. These
+Arab men were seated in the wide halls when not
+employed at their tasks, but whenever a guest approached
+they rose and stood at attention, appearing very tall
+in their white drapery. In the dining room the English
+head waiters in dress suits contrasted strangely with
+the dark-skinned Arab waiters in handsome silk gowns
+of various colors.</p>
+
+<p>On the evening we arrived in Cairo the large gardens
+of Shepheard's Hotel were beautifully illuminated with
+thousands of electric lights and hundreds of Chinese
+lanterns festooned among the shrubbery. Two military
+bands alternately played selections from favorite composers
+during the evening. An exhibition of fire-works
+made a brilliant display, and this was followed by a
+"battle of confetti" in the garden and a dance in the
+hotel. Our party bought packages of paper confetti
+and joined the gay crowd of merrymakers in casting
+handfuls of the colored squares of paper at each passer-by.
+At the dance the great variety of handsome uniforms
+worn by the English officers attracted our attention,
+the red jackets of some of the men being particularly
+noticeable among the light gowns of the French and
+English women.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_275" id="Page_275">[Pg 275]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus282.jpg" width="500" height="428" alt="THE CLIMBERS DWINDLED IN SIZE." title="THE CLIMBERS DWINDLED IN SIZE." />
+<span class="caption">THE CLIMBERS DWINDLED IN SIZE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Plans to utilize our time to the best advantage were
+carefully made, so that during our one week in Cairo
+we might give precedence to the places of particular
+interest, and see them at the most suitable hours.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus283.jpg" width="500" height="396" alt="AFTER REACHING THE TOP OF CHEOPS." title="AFTER REACHING THE TOP OF CHEOPS." />
+<span class="caption">AFTER REACHING THE TOP OF CHEOPS.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>When we visited the Egyptian Museum, the wealth
+of antiquities displayed within its commodious and well-lighted
+halls held us with a grasp from which it was
+difficult to break loose. The mummies of the old kings
+who had been dead for thirty centuries urged us to
+remain. "We will tell you the story of remote ages,"<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_276" id="Page_276">[Pg 276]</a></span>
+they seemed to say. There Ramses II, with gray hair,
+thin beard, and pierced ears, the great conqueror, builder
+of temples, erector of statues, and maker of history,
+lay peacefully at rest. His lips were firmly closed, his
+hands folded across his breast. His high forehead
+indicated the judgment with which he governed, and
+the strong nose suggested the greatness of his power.
+And near him, in hieroglyphic-covered coffins, reposed
+Seti I, constructor of magnificent edifices; Ramses III,
+oppressor of the Israelites; and many other famous kings,
+queens, priests, and warriors. The wooden statue of a
+village sheik with good-natured face and crystal eyes,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_278" id="Page_278">[Pg 278]</a></span>
+and the tinted limestone, lifelike statues of Prince
+Rahotep and his wife Nofret, could they have spoken,
+might have revealed the secrets of ages long before the
+times of the mummies; and the gray stone figure of
+Chepren, which was found in the well of the temple of
+Gizeh, might have explained the mysteries of pyramid
+and sphinx.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus284.jpg" width="500" height="289" alt="IN THE UNIVERSITY THE STUDENTS WERE SEATED ON THE FLOOR." title="IN THE UNIVERSITY THE STUDENTS WERE SEATED O" />
+<span class="caption">IN THE UNIVERSITY THE STUDENTS WERE SEATED ON THE FLOOR.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus285.jpg" width="500" height="428" alt="THE PENNIES APPARENTLY CANNOT BE FOUND." title="THE PENNIES APPARENTLY CANNOT BE FOUND." />
+<span class="caption">THE PENNIES APPARENTLY CANNOT BE FOUND.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>From the parapet of the citadel which crowns the
+heights above Cairo, we gazed at the extended view of
+roofs, mosques, minarets, and tombs of caliphs, and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_279" id="Page_279">[Pg 279]</a></span>
+listened to the story of the massacre of the Mamelukes
+and the legend of the one who marvelously escaped by
+leaping on his horse over the parapet to the ground
+sixty feet below. To convince us of the truth of this
+legend, the dragoman showed the impression of the
+horse's hoofs in the stone coping on the wall. The
+large Mosque of Mehemet Ali, on the heights, is built
+of pure alabaster and carpeted with costly rugs. The
+older Mosque of Sultan Ahmed, at the foot of the citadel
+hill, is built of sandstone taken from the Pyramids, and,
+although partly in ruins and with bare stone floors, it is
+yet beautiful.</p>
+
+<p>"This mosque make Ahmed glad. He not want
+another built like it, so he chop hand off architect,"
+explained our good-natured dragoman, whose control
+of English was limited, but he endeavored to relate the
+legends and give information.</p>
+
+<p>While returning from the citadel we came by an open-air
+market, where Egyptians of many types were gathered
+in groups around piles of merchandise and vegetables.
+Here our camera man, taking advantage of an opportune
+moment, caught a dense mass of faces before the natives
+became aware of his presence.</p>
+
+<p>On Friday afternoon we visited the Monastery El
+Akbar to see the religious exercises of the Twirling
+Dervishes, which take place there every Friday afternoon.
+The shrill music, the fanatic faces, the obeisance
+to the leader, the whirling men, the naked feet, and the
+never-touching skirts, just as we beheld them, are
+pictured vividly by Canon Rawnsley, in his "Idylls
+and Lyrics of the Nile."<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_280" id="Page_280">[Pg 280]</a></span></p>
+
+<p class="center">THE DANCING DERVISHES.</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">The shrillest pipe man ever played<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Was making music overhead,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">And in a circle, down below,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Sat men whose faces seemed to show<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Another world was all their trade.<br /></span>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">Then up they rose, and one by one,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Shook skirts down, following him who led<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">To where the elder brother sat&mdash;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">All gaberdine and conic hat,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Then bowed, and off for Heaven they spun.<br /></span>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">Their hands were crossed upon their breast,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Their eyes were closed as if for sleep,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">The naked foot that beat the floor,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">To keep them spinning more and more,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Was careless of all need for rest.<br /></span>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">Soon every flowing skirt began<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Its milk-white spinning plane to keep,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Each brother of the holy band<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Spun in and out with lifted hand,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">A Teetotem no longer man.<br /></span>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">The gray old man, their leader, went<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Throughout his spinning fellowship,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">And reverently to the ear,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Of every dervish circling near,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">He spake a soft encouragement.<br /></span>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">The piper piped a shriller psalm,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">The dancers thro' their mystery moved,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Untouched, untouching, and the twirl<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">That set our giddy heads awhirl,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Served but to give their faces calm.<br /></span>
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_281" id="Page_281">[Pg 281]</a></span></div></div>
+
+<p>We drove from Cairo to the Pyramids of Gizeh, a
+distance of ten miles, over a substantial macadamized
+avenue. This broad highway, elevated eight or ten
+feet above the adjoining lands in order to protect it
+from the flood of water during the time of inundation,
+was bordered for seven miles with large shade trees, and
+was in perfect condition. On one side of the avenue
+an electric tramway extended from the bridge at Cairo
+to the Mena House Hotel near the Pyramids.</p>
+
+<p>"We might have reached our destination more quickly
+in the cars," said our manager as an electric car sped
+by us, "but at such speed we should have missed much
+that is strange and curious. We thought it preferable
+to take the trip in open carriages."</p>
+
+<p>The scenes along the way as we drove to the Pyramids
+were indeed novel. In the gardens in the environs of
+the city, the cabbage, onions, beans, and strawberries
+were in readiness for the market, and in the fields, the
+clover and forage plants, dark in color and luxuriant in
+growth, were ready for the sickle, but the wheat was
+yet green. The fellahs&mdash;the Egyptian farm-laborers&mdash;were
+cutting the rank clover in square patches and
+stacking it on the backs of camels or donkeys. Along
+the road stalked camels beneath huge stacks of fragrant
+clover, and donkeys so laden with newly-cut forage
+that only their heads and feet could be seen. A crooked-horned
+ox with an Arab farmer on his back ambled by.
+A caravan of camels laden with blankets, tents, and
+military supplies, accompanied by a guard of white-helmeted
+English soldiers, almost blocked the road
+as they marched past. Bronzed-faced natives seated<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_282" id="Page_282">[Pg 282]</a></span>
+in the shade dealt in sugar-cane stalks, cutting pieces
+of cane from the pile of stalks beside them as they were
+sold. Turbaned Arabs sauntered by, chewing with
+evident enjoyment the sweet stalks which they had
+purchased. Bedouins from the desert rode past on
+camels bedecked with tasseled trappings, swaying back
+and forth as they rode. Women, partly veiled, coming
+from the wells, balanced on their heads large earthen
+bottles filled with water.</p>
+
+<p>"There are many pyramids," said the guide, as our
+carriage emerged from the shade of the trees and the
+Pyramids were seen in the distance, "but Cheops is
+the greatest, and it is the one that is ascended by
+visitors; the other Pyramids are viewed at a distance
+but are visited by few. Cheops is four hundred and
+fifty feet in height and each side of the base measures
+seven hundred and fifty feet. It was originally much
+larger and higher but the outer layers of stone were torn
+down and carried away to Cairo to build mosques and
+palaces. The adjacent Pyramid of Chepren is almost
+as large but as some of the steps are cased, it is more
+difficult to ascend. When we arrive at the pyramids
+you may take camels or donkeys and ride around the
+base of Cheops. Or if you prefer to go on foot, you
+may walk around it, but walking in the sand is tiresome.
+Then we will proceed to the Sphinx and, after viewing it,
+descend to the excavated temple near the Sphinx.
+Afterwards, those who feel equal to the exertion may
+climb to the summit of Cheops. As this Pyramid is
+built of huge blocks of stone about three feet in thickness
+each step upward requires some effort. The<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_284" id="Page_284">[Pg 284]</a></span>
+Bedouins, however, will assist you in the ascent, two
+of them mounting the step ahead and drawing you up
+while a third pushes behind."</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus290.jpg" width="300" height="530" alt="THE TOMB MOSQUE OF THE KHALIF KAIT BEY WAS THE FINEST." title="THE TOMB MOSQUE OF THE KHALIF KAIT BEY WAS THE FINEST." />
+<span class="caption">THE TOMB MOSQUE OF THE KHALIF KAIT BEY WAS THE FINEST.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>As we neared them, the Pyramids, which at first had
+seemed small and hazy in the distance, became distinct
+and grew in size. When very close to them they appeared
+enormous, but their magnitude was not fully appreciated
+until some hours later, after we had tramped through
+the sand around the four sides of great Cheops. After
+that walk, a distance of more than half a mile, we could
+judge with greater exactness the immense proportions
+of the extensive base. The slope of the sides prevented
+a fair conception of their height when looking upward
+at them; but after reaching the top of Cheops, panting
+with the exertion of the laborious climb in which we had
+been assisted by three Bedouins, we looked down at the
+midgets moving on the sand below, and were convinced
+that the altitude stated by the guide was not exaggerated.</p>
+
+<p>The Pyramids of Gizeh stand upon a plateau about
+four hundred acres in extent, which appeared to be
+thirty or more feet above the level of the surrounding
+country. The surface of this plateau is a barren sandy
+tract, bordered by cultivated land on the side toward
+the Nile and merging on the west into the Libyan desert
+which stretches to the distant hills. Just as far as the
+inundation of the Nile spreads or the irrigating water
+was pumped, the land was fertile; where the surface rose
+above the height reached by the water, the land was a
+barren waste. Almost as suddenly as landing from an
+emerald sea on to a desert shore, we stepped from a
+rich growth of verdure to a bare slope of yellow sand.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_285" id="Page_285">[Pg 285]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 250px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus292.jpg" width="250" height="439" alt="ASTRIDE ITS MOTHER&#39;S SHOULDERS." title="ASTRIDE ITS MOTHER&#39;S SHOULDERS." />
+<span class="caption">ASTRIDE ITS MOTHER&#39;S SHOULDERS.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>At the foot of the Pyramid of Cheops a gesticulating,
+vociferous throng of Bedouins crowded about us, shouting
+in Arabic mixed with a few intelligible English words.
+Camel-drivers and donkey boys offered the services of
+their animals to make
+the circuit; helpers,
+almost dragging us
+away in their eagerness,
+insisted that we
+should climb to the
+summit; and guides
+with candles in their
+hands importuned us
+to accompany them
+into the gloomy interior.
+After a selection
+of camels and
+donkeys had been
+made by those who
+desired to ride, the
+clamorous crowd of
+natives separated, and
+we were allowed to
+start accompanied by
+but a few, who followed
+in case they
+should be needed.
+"Madam might drop
+her shawl, or want her umbrella carried, or need an arm
+to steady her in the saddle," explained the guide.</p>
+
+<p>"For scores of centuries," remarked the professor,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_286" id="Page_286">[Pg 286]</a></span>
+as we stood before the Sphinx, "the strong winds from
+the west have carried particles of sand from the desert
+and deposited them around the Pyramids. Now the
+original base of Cheops lies twenty or thirty feet beneath
+banks of sand and debris that have collected
+around it. In the same manner the encroaching
+particles, drifting like the light dry snows of the prairies,
+have almost engulfed the Sphinx. Many times in the
+past the sand has been shoveled away to prevent the
+Sphinx from being hidden from sight, and if this excavation
+in which it now stands should be neglected for a
+time, the desert winds would fill the pit again and
+gradually cover the monument. The Granite Temple
+adjacent to the Sphinx was covered over so completely
+in the progress of centuries that its location was forgotten.
+It is but fifty years since the French archæologist
+Mariette discovered and excavated the interior
+of this large structure, the exterior of which, as you see,
+yet remains embedded in sand as far as the capstone
+on the walls."</p>
+
+<p>After descending the steps that led down to the floor
+of the buried temple and passing through rooms constructed
+of blocks of alabaster, we stood in the main
+hall, surrounded by monolithic pillars of granite which
+supported enormous blocks of the same material overhead.
+The guide said that these huge blocks of granite
+had been brought from quarries at Assuan, far up the
+Nile, but he could not tell how the ancient Egyptians
+had been able to handle the monoliths.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus294.jpg" width="500" height="292" alt="ENTERED THE FAMILY BURIAL MOSQUE OF MOHAMMED ALI." title="ENTERED THE FAMILY BURIAL MOSQUE OF MOHAMMED ALI." />
+<span class="caption">ENTERED THE FAMILY BURIAL MOSQUE OF MOHAMMED ALI.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>"My theory may not be correct," said the professor,
+as we turned to him for a reply to the query<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_288" id="Page_288">[Pg 288]</a></span>
+"but I will state it. We know how the great blocks
+of limestone that were used in the erection of the
+Pyramids were brought from the Libyan mountains;
+for the father of history, Herodotus, relates the
+story. He says that the Egyptians constructed a
+solid road sixty feet wide of polished stone from the
+quarry in the Lybian mountains and over this smooth
+roadbed dragged or rolled the huge blocks. He also
+states that as the work progressed, these blocks were
+lifted by machines from step to step and imbedded in
+their places in the pyramid. When granite or other
+stone had to be brought from a great distance for the
+erection of temples and palaces, as for this granite and
+alabaster temple of the Sphinx, the Egyptians probably
+adopted the simplest way of conveying the material
+in a land where task-masters drove tens of thousands
+of slaves to labor on the public works. That is, they
+probably excavated canals from the Nile to the quarries,
+supplementing these, where necessary, with stone roadways
+or slides, and made other canals from the Nile to the
+location selected for the buildings, and transported the
+unwieldy masses of stone on barges to their destination."</p>
+
+<p>"I made some calculations for comparison last night,"
+continued the professor, seeing that we were interested
+in his statements. "Professor Petrie, the archæologist,
+says that there are over two million large blocks of
+stone in the Pyramid of Cheops, or ninety-two million
+cubic feet."</p>
+
+<p>"Now, Professor," said one of the ladies, interrupting
+him, "you are getting above our comprehension when
+you soar into millions."<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_289" id="Page_289">[Pg 289]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus296.jpg" width="500" height="345" alt="BEARING ON HIS BACK AN UNWIELDY GOATSKIN." title="BEARING ON HIS BACK AN UNWIELDY GOATSKIN." />
+<span class="caption">BEARING ON HIS BACK AN UNWIELDY GOATSKIN.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>"Am I?" he replied. "Well, I will leave the millions
+and give you something more familiar. The Capitol
+at Washington is seven hundred and fifty feet long,&mdash;just
+the length of each side of the base of Cheops,&mdash;but
+the Capitol is not half that in width. The Capitol
+covers an area of three and one-half acres; the Pyramid
+spreads over thirteen acres. The apex of the Pyramid
+is one hundred and sixty feet higher than the head of
+Freedom on the dome at Washington. The Capitol
+is a hollow structure; the Pyramid, a solid mass, excepting
+the comparatively small chamber of the tomb and
+passage ways. The stone used in the construction of
+Cheops would be sufficient to build the Capitol and the
+Library of Congress, and there would be enough material<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_290" id="Page_290">[Pg 290]</a></span>
+left over for capitol buildings in each of the states in
+the Union. When you have time, calculate how many
+miles of stone wall might be constructed with ninety-two
+million cubic feet of stone. It is only by comparison
+that we can comprehend the stupendous bulk of
+these magnificent monuments, and realize the prodigious
+amount of labor that was required for their erection."</p>
+
+<p>It was but a short drive from the Hotel Grand Continental
+to the Muski, the narrow street that is the centre
+of the bazaar district, a district which every visitor is
+sure to find soon after his arrival in Cairo. When we
+entered the crowded Muski, we left the broad avenues
+of the modern city behind and walked in narrow Oriental
+streets through which carriages are not allowed to go.</p>
+
+<p>"Everything is novel and interesting in this busy
+thoroughfare," said one of our party. "I suggest that
+we move along very slowly and stop frequently. See
+that lemonade vender with the brass tank strapped to
+his back. When he bent forward the water flowed
+from the spout over his shoulder into the cup he held
+in his hand, without his touching the tank. He is
+waiting for his customer to produce the pennies that
+apparently cannot be found."</p>
+
+<p>The street scenes in the Muski were so kaleidoscopic
+that it is impossible to give more than a suggestion of
+their character. A few representative scenes can be
+given and around these the imagination must picture a
+constantly changing throng, not hurrying as in busy
+American cities, but moving leisurely in the Eastern
+manner. The crowd was orderly, but not quiet, for<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_292" id="Page_292">[Pg 292]</a></span>
+tongues were in constant use. Merchants and customers
+chattered and parleyed. Venders of licorice water
+and sweetmeats did not permit their presence to be
+overlooked, and donkeys occasionally joined in the
+chorus. Each figure unfamiliar to our Western eyes,
+in turban or in fez, in slippers or in bare feet, in scant
+gown of cotton or full robe of silk, was a subject worthy
+of being considered individually.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus298.jpg" width="500" height="288" alt="FIGURES UNFAMILIAR TO OUR WESTERN EYES." title="FIGURES UNFAMILIAR TO OUR WESTERN EYES." />
+<span class="caption">FIGURES UNFAMILIAR TO OUR WESTERN EYES.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>A baby, astride its mother's shoulder, clung to her
+head while she walked along and made her purchases,
+apparently unconscious of her child. A bare-footed
+water carrier, bearing on his back an unwieldy goatskin
+distended with its contents, cried, "Water for sale."
+A donkey boy pushed aside the crowd to let the closely
+veiled, silk-mantled lady rider pass through on her
+caparisoned donkey. Muscular fellahs, or peasants,
+in brown skull caps, and blue shirts which reached to
+their ankles, their feet bare, their teeth remarkable
+for whiteness, sauntered along chewing stalks of sugar-cane.
+Women of the poorer class passed by, wearing
+scanty gowns of plain blue cotton, heavy copper bracelets,
+and nose ornaments of brass, which held in place
+the veils that covered the lower part of their faces but
+did not conceal the beauty spots tattooed on their foreheads.
+A funeral procession, with professional mourners
+chanting monotonously a hymn to Allah, followed a
+casket borne on the shoulders of men. And these
+curious scenes, which we tried to catch with the camera,
+formed but unimportant parts in an ever-moving
+picture in which were intermingled the costumes,
+colors, and facial characteristics of dervishes, priests,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_293" id="Page_293">[Pg 293]</a></span>
+and soldiers, of Arabs, Nubians, Turks, and Americans.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus300.jpg" width="500" height="422" alt="IN THE COURT OF THE ALABASTER MOSQUE IS A FOUNTAIN." title="IN THE COURT OF THE ALABASTER MOSQUE IS A FOUN" />
+<span class="caption">IN THE COURT OF THE ALABASTER MOSQUE IS A FOUNTAIN.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The Muski and the crooked little passage-ways that
+intersected it were lined with small shops where many
+of the dealers sat cross-legged on platforms within arm's
+reach of their stock of goods. The stores for the sale of
+each kind of goods had a special quarter of their own.
+At one place we saw the shops of the coppersmiths with
+stocks of bright kettles, pitchers, basins, trays, and
+pans; at another, the stores of the shoemakers, where
+hundreds of bright red slippers dangled on lines over<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_294" id="Page_294">[Pg 294]</a></span>head.
+In one crooked alley, but four feet in width, we
+watched the goldsmiths, squatted in narrow quarters,
+busily at work with brazier and blowpipes and curious
+little tools, hammering, twisting, and welding chains of
+gold, and making ornaments of silver filagree.</p>
+
+<p>We bought souvenirs at the stalls of the fez dealers,
+where but one style of headgear was sold, always red
+in color, and with prices varying according to the
+quality of the cloth and lining. We stopped at the warerooms
+of the brass-smiths, which were larger in size
+than the ordinary shops, and found these filled with an
+array of hammered trays, censers, bowls, tankards,
+curiously wrought lamps, and ornamented candlesticks,
+that attracted many buyers. We looked into the little
+factories of the saddlers, which were gay with red
+and yellow trappings for donkeys and horses, and
+where the saddlers were stitching with bright colored-threads.</p>
+
+<p>The light open-front workshops of the makers of
+hempen camel harness were hung with the twisted
+rope and tassel adornments of variegated colors with
+which the Bedouin delights to array his ship of the
+desert. The stores of the grocers were adorned with
+long decorated candles suspended by the wicks. We
+saw hundreds of tiny bazaars for the sale of perfumes,
+placed side by side in a narrow lane where the air was
+scented with musk and attar of roses; and we walked
+through narrow streets where, each kind in its own
+section, earthen water jars, lanterns, books, ornamented
+leather work, gems, and precious stones were displayed
+for sale.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_295" id="Page_295">[Pg 295]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The guide insisted that we should spend a little time
+in the carpet stores in a side street. We yielded to his
+entreaties, and were surprised by the immense stacks
+of exquisite silk rugs; but to the courteous salesman's
+offer to show us everything in his place, we were compelled
+by lack of time to reply, "Another day." When
+we arrived at the more prominent silk bazaars, the
+ladies wished to buy some light shawls interwoven with
+gold thread and table covers embroidered with silk.
+They soon found out, however, that, as in the other
+Oriental cities, much time would be required for bargaining,
+and so the shopping was put off until the sight-seeing
+was over.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_296" id="Page_296">[Pg 296]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XIV" id="CHAPTER_XIV"></a>CHAPTER XIV.</h2>
+
+<p class="center">LUXOR AND KARNAK.</p>
+
+
+<p>The Nile party No. 2, consisting of forty-two persons,
+left Cairo on Friday morning, March thirteenth,
+in sleeping cars. The cars were painted
+white outside, finished in cherry inside, and divided into
+rooms, each room having two comfortable berths and a
+washstand, and a passageway along the side of the car.
+We ate our dinner that evening and breakfast the following
+morning in a modern dining car attached to the
+train.</p>
+
+<p>At nine o'clock on Saturday morning the train
+arrived at our destination, the town of Luxor, about
+four hundred miles south of Cairo. The Hotel de
+Luxor, at which we stayed, was situated in the midst
+of a large irrigated garden where palms cast a grateful
+shade and roses and lilies bloomed among tropical
+plants. Within this hotel, built with thick stone walls
+and floored with flagstones, the tourists found a pleasant
+refuge from the heat when they returned from
+excursions into the desert. In its cool dining room,
+decorated in the old Egyptian style with figures of gods
+and goddesses, with lotus blossoms and papyrus flowers,
+with hieroglyphics and symbols, painted on frieze,
+walls, and window sash, the tourists were waited on by
+white-robed, white-turbaned, red-sashed, red-slippered
+natives.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_297" id="Page_297">[Pg 297]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus304.jpg" width="500" height="292" alt="THE HUGE PROPYLON OR OUTER GATEWAY AT KARNAK." title="THE HUGE PROPYLON OR OUTER GATEWAY AT KARNA" />
+<span class="caption">THE HUGE PROPYLON OR OUTER GATEWAY AT KARNAK.</span>
+</div><p>
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_298" id="Page_298">[Pg 298]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>The flies were a great pest. They were numerous
+and annoying, although we found that they did not
+bite so hard nor tickle the skin so much as do the flies
+in our country. Among the first purchases made by
+the tourists in Luxor were fly brushes made of palm
+fiber or of white horsehair with wooden handles and
+loops to attach them to the wrist. It was amusing to
+see English, German, and American tourists switching
+at the flies with their horsetail brushes while the natives
+passively endured the crawling insects. Egyptian
+mothers in the village permitted the flies to creep over
+the babies' faces and settle in clusters around their
+eyes without attempting to drive the tormentors away,
+either too lazy to do so or desirous that the babies
+should become hardened to the annoyance. We pitied
+the infants, however, and some of the ladies of our party
+became very indignant over the indifference&mdash;cruelty
+they called it&mdash;of the mothers. We saw many older
+children afterwards whose skin appeared to be insensible
+to the tickling feet; for they made no attempt to brush
+away the flies which covered their faces.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus306a.jpg" width="500" height="140" alt="I. WALKED ALONG THE AVENUE OF SPHINXES." title="I. WALKED ALONG THE AVENUE OF SPHINXES." />
+<span class="caption">I. WALKED ALONG THE AVENUE OF SPHINXES.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus306b.jpg" width="500" height="144" alt="II. THE LITTLE MOSQUE COULD NOT BE PURCHASED." title="II. THE LITTLE MOSQUE COULD NOT BE PURCHASED." />
+<span class="caption">II. THE LITTLE MOSQUE COULD NOT BE PURCHASED.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Our party was joined during the morning by another
+party of tourists. After luncheon we all proceeded to
+the end of the shaded garden, where, at the gateway, we
+found Mahmoud, the dragoman who had been selected
+to take charge of the expedition. His assistants were
+assembled there and with them were eighty donkey
+boys, each with his donkey, a number of jinrikisha men
+with carts, and chair men with chairs. The donkey
+boys were of all ages from lads scarcely in their teens to
+veterans of three-score years. The donkeys were of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_300" id="Page_300">[Pg 300]</a></span>
+various sizes but the largest were not over four feet high.
+The jinrikishas had each two attendants, one man to
+pull in the shafts of the cart and one to push. The
+chairs borne on poles on the shoulders of men had each
+six carriers, four to carry and two as a relay. Chairs
+or jinrikishas were chosen by the tourists whose bodies
+required careful treatment and by those who preferred to
+travel in luxury. The donkeys, however, were selected
+by the majority, who considered it a far greater pleasure
+to ride.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus307.jpg" width="500" height="350" alt="THEY BROUGHT WATER IN GOATSKINS FROM THE NILE." title="THEY BROUGHT WATER IN GOATSKINS FROM THE NILE." />
+<span class="caption">THEY BROUGHT WATER IN GOATSKINS FROM THE NILE.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>"This way! this way! ladies and gentlemen, if you
+please!" exclaimed Mahmoud, and the merry cavalcade
+of eighty tourists and one hundred attendants started<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_302" id="Page_302">[Pg 302]</a></span>
+off through the village, donkey boys chattering, donkeys
+braying, and riders gaily chaffing one another on their
+appearance in the saddle; the long-legged professor
+holding up his feet to prevent them from scraping the
+ground and the jolly stout parson mounted on the
+smallest donkey. Each donkey was followed by a
+donkey boy who whipped the patient beast, jabbed him
+with a sharp pointed stick, twisted the animal's tail, or
+talked to him in Arabic, when it was necessary to urge
+him to greater speed. When urged, the donkeys were
+fast walkers. But whether the donkeys were walking,
+trotting, or galloping, the boys with little exertion
+managed to keep close to their heels, and the jinrikisha
+men and chair men could keep up such a rapid speed
+with their loads that it was difficult to leave them in the
+rear.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus308.jpg" width="300" height="541" alt="BUILT OVER FORTY CENTURIES AGO." title="BUILT OVER FORTY CENTURIES AGO." />
+<span class="caption">BUILT OVER FORTY CENTURIES AGO.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>My donkey boy, aged about sixteen, told me that his
+name was Abda Mohammed and that the medium sized
+white donkey on which I rode was known as Alice
+Lovell. With broad smiles which showed a perfect set
+of white teeth, he repeated over and over again, at
+intervals during the short ride, "Alice Lovell, nice
+donkey, good donkey. Abda, nice boy, good donkey
+boy," doubtless thinking that if I could fully realize
+that fact the backsheesh at parting would be larger.</p>
+
+<p>A half hour's ride on an embanked road across fields
+and desert sands brought us to the ruins of a great arch,
+formerly one of the gateways into the magnificent
+ancient temples of Karnak, but now an entrance way
+to the famous ruins. There, the Egyptian guards
+ordered us to show our government permits, or monu<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_304" id="Page_304">[Pg 304]</a></span>ment
+tickets, as our dragoman called them, without
+which we could not inspect the ruins.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus310.jpg" width="300" height="415" alt="HAVE ENDURED THROUGH MANY AGES." title="HAVE ENDURED THROUGH MANY AGES." />
+<span class="caption">HAVE ENDURED THROUGH MANY AGES.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>"Oh! I have forgotten my ticket!" said one of the
+tourists. "I left it with my satchel. What shall I do?"</p>
+
+<p>At luncheon before starting Mahmoud had cautioned
+the tourists to be careful not to forget their permits,
+and his cautionary words, "Monument tickets are very
+much wanted," were familiar and often repeated. A
+hurried consultation was held and the difficulty overcome,
+but the forgetful one and others were warned that
+it must not occur again.</p>
+
+<p>In order to provide a fund to be used in excavating,
+preserving, and caring for the ancient temples and
+tombs, the Egyptian government requires a permit costing
+six dollars to be taken out by each person desiring
+to visit these places, and without such a permit he
+cannot enter. At Cairo the managers of the tour had
+obtained from the government for each member of the
+Nile party a little cloth bound "Service des Antiquites
+L'Egypte" made out in the name of the holder. This
+open-sesame for the iron gates was given to each person
+with the warning that it must not be forgotten.</p>
+
+<p>We stopped to view and kodak one of the huge
+Propylons or outer gate ways and found there some
+visitors who had driven to Karnak in modern carriages
+instead of using the Oriental way of conveyance that
+we had taken. An avenue of Sphinxes with rams' heads
+was also stowed away in the kodak to be brought to
+light at some future time.</p>
+
+<p>"These stupendous ruins of Karnak," said the dragoman,
+"were once a group of magnificent temples cover<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_305" id="Page_305">[Pg 305]</a></span>ing
+an area of many acres. The most ancient of the
+structures was built over forty centuries ago. Other
+temples were added and alterations and improvements
+made during the ages following when the city of Thebes
+was a prosperous capital; but for over two thousand
+years these places of worship have been abandoned
+and the sand of the desert has collected around them,
+almost burying them out of sight. The Egyptian government
+for a number of years has had many natives
+excavating, and also has been raising some of the fallen
+columns."</p>
+
+<p>As we passed through the temple grounds we saw a
+number of men and boys at work, as the dragoman had
+stated. These excavators scooped the sand and debris
+into small baskets, while a taskmaster stood over them,
+whip in hand. Then placing the filled baskets on their
+heads they started off in long lines, singing as they
+marched to the deposit heap. The men, we were
+informed, earned twenty-five cents a day at this labor,
+and the boys ten to fifteen cents a day.</p>
+
+<p>"One thing noticeable about these most magnificent
+ruins in the world," continued the guide, as we halted
+in the great court, "is that the architecture, the sculpture,
+the inscriptions, of the earlier temples is equal, if
+not superior, to the workmanship of a later date. The
+construction work done under the great kings Ramses
+I, Seti I, Ramses II, and Amenophis III, who ruled over
+Egypt thirteen centuries before the Christian era, has
+never been surpassed. Stones of immense size were
+handled by their architects in some manner unknown
+at the present day, and walls and columns were erected<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_306" id="Page_306">[Pg 306]</a></span>
+of such solidity and strength that they have endured
+through these many ages. The First Pylon or gigantic
+portal to the Temple of Ammon, which was dedicated
+to Ammon-Re, the King of the Gods, is three hundred
+and seventy-two feet wide, with walls sixteen feet thick
+and one hundred and forty-two feet high. The wonderful
+Hypostyle Hall, or Hall of Columns, is three
+hundred and thirty-eight feet long by one hundred
+and seventy feet broad."</p>
+
+<p>"Before we enter, let me read you what the noted
+Egyptologist Rawlinson says with reference to this
+Hall of Columns," said the professor, drawing out his
+note book. "He writes: 'The greatest of all Seti's
+work was his pillared hall at Karnak, the most splendid
+single chamber that has ever been built by any architect,
+and even in its ruins one of the grandest sights that the
+world contains."</p>
+
+<p>The huge columns, some in place, some leaning, and
+others prostrate, were an impressive sight. The guide
+called our attention to the inscriptions that covered
+all the columns and to the traces of coloring that might
+still be seen on the protected parts. In order that we
+might more fully realize their size, he suggested that we
+measure the circumference of one with our arms. It
+required six of us with outstretched arms to span one of
+the larger columns.</p>
+
+<p>As we passed through the various halls, Mahmoud
+interpreted and explained many of the historical inscriptions
+and reliefs with which the ancient Egyptian kings
+had covered the walls, commemorating the victories
+they had gained over their enemies. One wall pictured<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_308" id="Page_308">[Pg 308]</a></span>
+the triumph of Shishak over Rehoboam, the son of
+Solomon. The captured cities were represented by
+circles each enclosing the name of the city; the captives,
+by rows of Hebrews bound with cords. King Shishak
+stood over the captives grasping a group of them by
+the hair and smiting them with a club, and slaves carried
+the golden treasures that had been stripped from the
+temple at Jerusalem, and the plunder taken from
+Rehoboam's palace.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus314.jpg" width="500" height="312" alt="WITHIN THE TEMPLE OF AMMON AT KARNAK." title="WITHIN THE TEMPLE OF AMMON AT KARNAK." />
+<span class="caption">WITHIN THE TEMPLE OF AMMON AT KARNAK.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>On our return to Luxor my donkey boy Abda and I
+had a disagreement. I gave him, as backsheesh, a tip
+equal to a man's wages for a full day's work in Egypt;
+but he pleaded with tears in his eyes for "more backsheesh,"
+and departed apparently in great anger.</p>
+
+<p>After resting awhile in the cool halls of our hotel, we
+walked to the ruins of the great Temple in the village of
+Luxor, close by the river bank and not far from the hotel.</p>
+
+<p>"In the year 1884," said Mahmoud, as we assembled
+around him in the ruins where the gigantic columns rose
+forty feet above our heads, "I was living in a house that
+stood just over where we are now standing and I did not
+know that a part of the temple was buried in the earth
+underneath. The government officials, after much
+haggling and complaining about the prices my neighbors
+and I demanded, bought the houses and lands of us,
+about thirty properties in all, and gave us other lands,
+so that the excavations could be continued. That
+year this part of the temple was uncovered. The little
+white mosque at the corner could not be purchased, as
+that ground is sacred and must not be disturbed to
+uncover ruins underneath it."<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_309" id="Page_309">[Pg 309]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus316.jpg" width="500" height="289" alt="PLACED THE FILLED BASKETS ON THEIR HEADS." title="PLACED THE FILLED BASKETS ON THEIR HEADS." />
+<span class="caption">PLACED THE FILLED BASKETS ON THEIR HEADS.</span>
+</div><p>
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_310" id="Page_310">[Pg 310]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>"This edifice, dedicated to the worship of Ammon,"
+continued the guide, "was erected by King Amenophis
+III thirty-three hundred years ago; but King Ramses
+II, one hundred years later, added to the structure and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_311" id="Page_311">[Pg 311]</a></span>
+made it a memorial of his reign by embellishing the
+temple with statues of himself and covering the exterior
+walls with reliefs and inscriptions picturing and describing
+his triumphs."</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 250px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus317.jpg" width="250" height="295" alt="EMBELLISHED THE TEMPLE WITH STATUES OF HIMSELF." title="EMBELLISHED THE TEMPLE WITH STATUES OF HIMSELF." />
+<span class="caption">EMBELLISHED THE TEMPLE WITH STATUES OF HIMSELF.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>We saw two colossal sitting statues of Ramses forty-five
+feet in height, one of which was completely excavated,
+the other buried breast high in rubbish, and in a
+court of the temple were many gigantic standing figures
+of Ramses placed between the pillars. Beside one of
+these was a small figure, representing the queen Nefertari,
+which just reached to the height of the knees of
+Ramses.</p>
+
+<p>"The king desired to indicate by the size of the statues
+that he was a great conqueror," said the dragoman.
+"His wife was the daughter of Pharoah who, while
+bathing in the Nile, found the Hebrew babe hidden
+among the papyri plants."</p>
+
+<p>"If Nefertari was the princess who rescued Moses,
+she deserved a larger statue," responded one of the
+tourists.</p>
+
+<p>"This series of scenes represents the victory at
+Kadesh in Syria," explained the guide as we stood before
+a wall covered with pictorial representations of
+conflict cut in the stone. "Here is the King in his
+chariot charging with fury on his foes amid flying arrows.
+Notice the dead and wounded scattered over the field of
+battle and the Hittites flying in confusion. At one side
+you see the Egyptian camp, and on the other side the
+fortress of Kadesh and the Syrian king amazed at the
+sight of his army in wild flight. The hieroglyphics that
+cover the side of the tower give a detailed account of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_312" id="Page_312">[Pg 312]</a></span>
+the battle and of the glorious deeds of valor performed
+by King Ramses. There were originally two large
+obelisks here in front of the temple, but one of them
+was taken to Paris a number of years ago."</p>
+
+<p>"Yes, I saw it there," remarked one of the party,
+"but the inscriptions on the one at Paris looked worn
+and weather-beaten; while those on this obelisk are
+almost as distinct as when they were cut in the pink
+granite three thousand years ago."</p>
+
+<p>On the morning of March fifteenth, after an early
+breakfast, we started at seven o'clock to visit the
+Tombs of the Kings and the temples on the west side
+of the Nile,&mdash;the village of Luxor and the temples of
+Luxor and Karnak being on the east side. Crossing
+the river in ferry boats propelled by sails and oars, the
+tourists found donkeys, boys, chair-men, lunch carriers,
+guides, and extra men crowding the western shore.
+We had hardly landed when the donkey boys surrounded
+us, gesticulating, shouting the merits of themselves
+and their beasts, and pleading that their donkeys might
+be selected. Much to my surprise, Abda, the offended
+and angry boy of the Karnak ride, pushed his way to
+my side with Alice Lovell and smilingly claimed me as
+his friend and benefactor, with the familiar tale: "Alice
+Lovell a good donkey; Abda a good donkey boy," so
+our relations were renewed.</p>
+
+<p>The ladies decided that the men's saddles would be
+more comfortable for a long ride, and that there would
+be less danger of the saddle turning; so side saddles
+were generally dispensed with and most of the women
+mounted astride. From the landing we rode slowly<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_314" id="Page_314">[Pg 314]</a></span>
+over a long stretch of loose sand, tiresome to the donkeys,
+and then along a good path on the embankment of an
+irrigating ditch. The sun was sending down hot rays
+by the time we reached our first halting place, the Temple
+of Kurna, and we were glad to dismount and seek shelter
+and rest in the shade of the great walls while we examined
+the beautifully executed reliefs and inscriptions.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus320.jpg" width="300" height="407" alt="BESIDE ONE OF THESE IS A SMALL FIGURE OF THE QUEEN."
+title="BESIDE ONE OF THESE IS A SMALL FIGURE OF THE QUEEN." />
+<span class="caption">BESIDE ONE OF THESE IS A SMALL FIGURE OF THE QUEEN.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>In the treasure chamber of the temple, Mahmoud related
+the story of the architect who built the chamber
+for King Seti. "This rascal of an architect," said
+Mahmoud, "left one stone loose so that he could secretly
+remove it and enter the chamber to steal. The robber
+was caught in the act of carrying off the treasure and
+fittingly punished as you may see represented in the
+reliefs on the walls. This man pictured here in disgrace
+and chains as a warning to ill-doers was the first thief in
+Egypt, but I am sorry to say he was not the last."</p>
+
+<p>After leaving the Temple of Kurna, which is situated
+near the cliffs that bound the Nile valley, our procession
+entered a narrow ravine through which the path leads to
+the Tombs of the Kings. Here we met another large
+party of Americans and we all rode together for some
+distance, one of the tourists meeting a friend whom
+she had not seen for seven years. We passed two
+Englishmen with their guide, who moved off the path
+and gazed through their eye-glasses in mild astonishment
+at our animated cavalcade in varied costumes;
+while we in turn looked at their immaculate sporting
+outfits and thought how lonely the couple must be,
+traveling through these dismal solitudes. Our party
+had not thought it worth while to purchase special<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_316" id="Page_316">[Pg 316]</a></span>
+riding outfits for the few days in the desert, but had
+utilized what they had. For protection from the sun
+some used white helmets or cloth neck protectors, some
+covered their heads and necks with veils or tied down
+their soft hats, others wore straw hats or caps regardless
+of sunburn.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus322a.jpg" width="500" height="138" alt="RESTED IN THE SHADE OF THE TEMPLE OF KURNA."
+title="RESTED IN THE SHADE OF THE TEMPLE OF KURNA." />
+<span class="caption">RESTED IN THE SHADE OF THE TEMPLE OF KURNA.
+</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus322b.jpg" width="500" height="141" alt="WE ENTERED THE RAMESSEUM." title="WE ENTERED THE RAMESSEUM." />
+<span class="caption">WE ENTERED THE RAMESSEUM.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Overhead was an unclouded sky; at each side rose
+yellow limestone cliffs glaring in the noonday sun, and
+underneath white sand and limestone chips reflected the
+burning rays. Not a sign of vegetation relieved the eye
+in this waterless gorge during our one hour's ride from
+Kurna to the Tombs.</p>
+
+<p>"Backsheesh! backsheesh!" demanded the donkey
+boys, as we dismounted.</p>
+
+<p>"Why do you want backsheesh now?"</p>
+
+<p>"Boy don't want backsheesh, donkey want backsheesh,
+donkey eat hay while man in tombs."</p>
+
+<p>In order that the Tombs may be satisfactorily examined
+by visitors, the government has built an electric
+light plant in the gorge and the thirty-five tombs are
+illuminated by electricity. Our party entered and
+examined the six of these tombs which are considered
+the most interesting. At each of these an Egyptian
+guard politely scrutinized the "Services des Antiquites,"
+although it was printed in French that he could not
+read, and then permitted the holder to enter.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 250px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus324.jpg" width="250" height="352" alt="STOOD IN THE COLONNADE AT MEDINET HABU." title="STOOD IN THE COLONNADE AT MEDINET HABU." />
+<span class="caption">STOOD IN THE COLONNADE AT MEDINET HABU.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>In Tomb No. 17, we descended a passage hewn in the
+limestone cliff, about ten feet wide, ten feet in height,
+and three hundred and thirty feet in length, which leads
+inward and downward by inclines and steps to the resting-place
+of King Seti, a tomb prepared during his life<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_318" id="Page_318">[Pg 318]</a></span>
+to be the receptacle for his mummified remains after
+death. The smooth polished walls and ceilings of the
+corridors and chambers were sculptured by the best
+artists of Seti's time with reliefs of great beauty, representing
+scenes of a sacred character. The praising of the
+great God Ammon-Re, the offering of incense and gifts
+to various deities, the passage of the boat of the sun,
+the punishments in the underworld, the sacred sun-disk,
+animal-headed gods, patron goddesses, fierce
+demons, sacred animals, winged serpents, flying spirits,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_319" id="Page_319">[Pg 319]</a></span>
+evil genii, coiled snakes, and creeping scarabs are portrayed
+repeatedly.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus325.jpg" width="500" height="406" alt="AT THE TOMBS OF THE KING." title="AT THE TOMBS OF THE KING." />
+<span class="caption">AT THE TOMBS OF THE KING.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Mahmoud explained the pictures and inscriptions as
+we slowly went forward, stopping frequently to inspect
+more closely those of greater interest.</p>
+
+<p>"After Seti's death," said Mahmoud, as we stood in
+the chamber of the tomb, brilliantly lighted by the
+electric bulbs, "his body was embalmed and with great
+pomp and ceremony the mummy was carried from the
+palace in the great city of Thebes through the dismal
+gorge and deposited in a magnificent alabaster sarcophagus
+that had been prepared for its reception in this
+chamber in the limestone rock ninety feet below the
+surface of the ground. Then the tomb was closed and
+sealed so that the body of the king might remain in
+peace until it should be called forth at the end of time
+to undergo trial before the god Osiris.</p>
+
+<p>"For hundreds of years, the mummy lay tranquilly
+in its sealed tomb; then the seals were rudely broken and
+the tomb was despoiled by robbers who wished to
+obtain the valuables deposited with the body. When
+this despoliation was discovered, the rulers of the Empire
+removed Seti's mummy and the mummies of other
+kings to a tomb near the Temple of Der-el-bahri which
+could be more closely guarded. There the mummies
+remained until the year 1881, when they were taken
+away to the Museum at Cairo."</p>
+
+<p>"And now," said one of the visitors, as the guide
+concluded, "after thirty centuries of repose, the proud
+features of this oppressor of the Israelites, little the
+worse for the lapse of time, are exposed in the great<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_320" id="Page_320">[Pg 320]</a></span>
+hall of the National Museum in Cairo to the gaze of the
+rude multitude from whom he desired to be hidden, and
+his alabaster sarcophagus is admired by visitors in the
+Soane Museum of London."</p>
+
+<p>Almost all the articles of value in the Tombs that the
+robbers did not succeed in carrying away, as well as the
+mummies and sarcophagi, have been removed to
+museums in the large cities, the most valuable being
+retained for the Museum in Cairo. In the tomb of
+Amenophis II, however, the mummy of the king in a
+decorated coffin remains for the inspection of visitors.
+Above the head of this ruler of the ancient empire, a
+modern electric bulb hangs, illuminating the rugged
+features and showing every detail of high nose, sunken
+cheeks, and straggling hair on the head and chin. The
+tombs of Ramses III, Ramses IV, and Ramses IX were
+interesting each in its own way. That of Ramses III
+had, in addition to the sacred scenes, pictures of agricultural
+and family life; plowing, sowing, reaping, baking,
+slaughtering, and cooking.</p>
+
+<p>"Shall we return through the gorge or take the
+shorter path over the cliffs and obtain a view of the Nile
+valley?" inquired the dragoman.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus328.jpg" width="500" height="286" alt="USED CHISELS ON LASTING STONE INSTEAD OF BRUSHES ON PERISHABLE CANVAS." title="USED CHISELS ON LASTING STONE INSTEAD OF BRUSHES ON PERISHABLE CANVAS." />
+<span class="caption">USED CHISELS ON LASTING STONE INSTEAD OF BRUSHES ON PERISHABLE CANVAS.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Some, dreading the exertion under a broiling sun,
+chose the level road on a donkey's back. Others, intent
+on obtaining the view, started to climb the zigzag path
+regardless of the glare of the sun, the donkey boys
+following with the donkeys. The view from the summit
+amply repaid us for the climb. On one side we looked
+down into the desolate valley of the Tombs. On the
+other we saw the rich green valley of the Nile, with groups<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_322" id="Page_322">[Pg 322]</a></span>
+of palms, villages, and temples. Directly below at the
+foot of the yellow cliff, and in strong contrast to it, was
+the white marble temple of Der-al-bahri. And not far
+from the temple was a cottage, which at once became
+interesting to the tired party when the guide, pointing
+to it, said: "That is the rest-house. A good luncheon
+will be ready on the
+tables when you arrive
+there."</p>
+
+<div class="figright" style="width: 250px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus329.jpg" width="250" height="331" alt="POSED TO BE KODAKED." title="POSED TO BE KODAKED." />
+<span class="caption">POSED TO BE KODAKED.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>We had been riding
+on a very narrow trail
+along the edge of a
+precipice, but now we
+dismounted and descended,
+on foot, a
+winding path, too steep
+and dangerous for riding,
+that led us to the rest-house
+in the valley below.
+Here, at the
+Chalet Hatasu, as it was
+named, the servants had
+unpacked the hampers
+which they had brought
+from the hotel at Luxor, and the hungry travelers
+were soon seated around well-spread tables. During
+the meal a throng of scantily clad men, boys, and
+small children assembled outside the Chalet. These
+bare-footed Arabs offered for sale scarabs, stone mummy
+images, mummified feet, skulls, beads, and trinkets so
+clamorously and persistently that our dragoman had to<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_324" id="Page_324">[Pg 324]</a></span>
+use his long lashed whip to clear the way. After leaving
+the chalet, naked boys, apparently from four to ten
+years of age, followed us with outstretched hands, begging
+for backsheesh. Some of these boys earned money
+by posing to be kodaked.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus330a.jpg" width="500" height="142" alt="I. COLOSSUS OF RAMSES LAY BROKEN." title="I. COLOSSUS OF RAMSES LAY BROKEN." />
+<span class="caption">I. COLOSSUS OF RAMSES LAY BROKEN.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus330b.jpg" width="500" height="143" alt="II. MOSLEMS HAD MUTILATED THE STATUES." title="II. MOSLEMS HAD MUTILATED THE STATUES." />
+<span class="caption">II. MOSLEMS HAD MUTILATED THE STATUES.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The walls and columns of the Ramesseum, the
+magnificent temple built by Ramses II, and those of
+Medinet Habu, the great temple built by Ramses III,
+were covered with pictures in relief, made in the golden
+days of Theban prosperity.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus331.jpg" width="500" height="430" alt="TWO WEATHER-WORN FIGURES OF PRODIGIOUS SIZE" title="TWO WEATHER-WORN FIGURES OF PRODIGIOUS SIZE" />
+<span class="caption">TWO WEATHER-WORN FIGURES OF PRODIGIOUS SIZE</span>
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_325" id="Page_325">[Pg 325]</a></span>
+</div>
+
+<p>"The ancient artists, to perpetuate their work, used
+chisels on lasting stone instead of brushes on perishable
+canvas," remarked the professor as we examined the
+reliefs, "and their pictures carved on the stone walls
+have endured through centuries."</p>
+
+<p>We saw battle scenes with the king leading in the fray,
+archers discharging arrows, charioteers riding down the
+foe, and enemies fleeing in dismay; triumphal marches
+with the king borne aloft on a canopied litter, fan-bearers
+waving fans, musicians blowing trumpets and
+beating drums, courtiers bearing standards, and captives
+led in chains; festal processions with the king marching
+in front, the sacred white bull festooned with wreaths,
+maidens carrying flowers, and priests bearing images;
+and nations paying tribute to the king upon his throne,
+Nubians bringing leopard skins, giraffes, and grinning
+apes, and princes presenting gems, costly vases, and
+golden shields. One picture at Medinet Habu represented
+the soldiers cutting off the right hands of their
+enemies who had been slain in battle and bringing these
+gruesome emblems of the dead to the secretaries to be
+counted and recorded. The secretaries had counted
+and recorded twelve thousand five hundred and thirty-five
+hands. To enumerate the many interesting scenes
+sculptured on the temple walls would be like cataloguing
+a picture gallery.</p>
+
+<p>At the Ramesseum, the enormous Colossus of Ramses
+lay broken on the ground, overthrown by some mighty
+force.</p>
+
+<p>"This huge granite figure," said Mahmoud, "was,
+before its fall, the largest statue ever carved out of one<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_326" id="Page_326">[Pg 326]</a></span>
+block of stone. Its height was nearly sixty feet, the
+fingers three feet long, and its weight has been estimated
+at one thousand tons."</p>
+
+<p>The Colossi of Memnon, the two enormous seated
+figures in the midst of level cultivated fields, were
+passed and photographed as we returned to Luxor.
+Their hugeness may be judged by comparing their size
+with the height of the tourists alongside in the illustration.</p>
+
+<p>"During the weeks of inundation each year," said
+Mahmoud, after he had told us the dimensions of the
+statues and the mythical stories associated with them,
+"these grain fields as far as the vegetation extends are
+covered with water to a depth of from ten to fifteen feet.
+When the Nile is at its height the heads of the great
+Colossi, surrounded by water, rise forty feet above the
+flood."</p>
+
+<p>A bath and a thorough brushing of clothes at the hotel
+removed the desert sand. We sipped our afternoon tea
+in the shaded garden and then the party of forty-two
+persons boarded the Nile steamer Amasis in time for
+an evening dinner on the boat. Suit cases and satchels
+were unpacked and the staterooms made cozy, for the
+Amasis was to be the tourists' home for a number of
+days during the trip down the Nile.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_327" id="Page_327">[Pg 327]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XV" id="CHAPTER_XV"></a>CHAPTER XV.</h2>
+
+<p class="center">ON THE NILE.</p>
+
+
+<p>At daylight on Monday morning, March sixteenth,
+the Amasis steamed away from Luxor and by
+nine o'clock had arrived at the landing for
+Dendera. The donkey boys of Dendera, having been
+notified of our coming, were waiting with their donkeys.
+In a few minutes the tourists were mounted for a half
+hour's ride on narrow paths through green barley fields
+to the ruined temple. I rode on a donkey named Whiskey
+and Soda, with my donkey boy Hassan running
+behind prodding the animal occasionally with a sharp-pointed
+stick, and yelling "Haow! Haow!" to urge
+Whiskey and Soda to a more rapid gait. Along the paths
+through the fields many children ran to greet us with
+outstretched palms. Their costumes were those of the
+Garden of Eden before the fall; but having been informed
+of our approach, the bronze colored youngsters had decorated
+themselves for the occasion with wreaths of green
+barley around their waists and crowns of the same
+material on their heads. The little Arabs, bright-eyed,
+smooth-limbed, and handsome featured, attractive and
+picturesque in appearance, shouted with glee when a
+few small coins were thrown among them.</p>
+
+<p>"Look at that!" exclaimed one of the party. "I
+have heard of the shepherds carrying the lambs on their<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_328" id="Page_328">[Pg 328]</a></span>
+shoulders, but here is a man coming with the foal of a
+donkey in his arms."</p>
+
+<p>"What a dear little pet," said the ladies as the Arab
+passed us with the young donkey nestling contentedly
+on his breast.</p>
+
+<p>"The famous Temple of Dendera was not so magnificent
+nor so large as the temples of Karnak and Thebes,"
+said the guide, as we stood before the gates, "but it was
+more richly decorated with carvings and paintings.
+Every inch of column, wall, and ceiling was carved with
+hieroglyphic and pictorial decorations. These were
+painted in bright colors which are yet faintly visible.
+This structure is a modern one compared with Karnak;
+for Karnak was an ancient temple more than one
+thousand years old when King Ptolemy began the
+erection of this building just before the Christian Era.
+An inscription on the walls states that the time required
+for its construction was one hundred and eight years,
+six months, and fourteen days. When Egypt became a
+Roman province after the death of Cleopatra, the Roman
+emperors continued the construction of the unfinished
+temple. Augustus, Tiberius, Caligula, Claudius, and
+Nero are represented in reliefs on the walls. The temple
+was dedicated to the worship of the Goddess Hathor,
+the Egyptian Venus, or goddess of love and beauty."</p>
+
+<p>"Why was the temple built here two miles away from
+the river, instead of near the banks of the Nile?" inquired
+a tourist.</p>
+
+<p>"It was because this terrace is higher than the valley,"
+answered Mahmoud. "Remember that these green
+fields through which we rode are made fertile by the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_330" id="Page_330">[Pg 330]</a></span>
+overflow of the Nile; then I think that the reason for
+building on this plateau will be plain to you."</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus336.jpg" width="500" height="288" alt="DONKEY BOYS WERE WAITING FOR US." title="DONKEY BOYS WERE WAITING FOR US." />
+<span class="caption">DONKEY BOYS WERE WAITING FOR US.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>"But why was it built in a depression?"</p>
+
+<p>"It was not originally in a hole," explained the guide,
+"but was built on level ground. Some sixteen hundred
+years ago the Christian Roman Emperor Theodosius
+forbade the worship of idols. After that time, the
+worship of the goddess Hathor being discontinued, the
+temple was neglected and a village of mud huts sprang
+up around it. These huts, built of sun-dried bricks,
+crumbled to dust in the passage of years and were
+trampled under foot. Again and again new huts
+supplanted the old until in the course of centuries the
+debris accumulated many feet in depth. When the
+government, fifty years ago, undertook to restore the
+temple, the workmen had to begin by shoveling mud
+huts off the roof."</p>
+
+<p>We descended a long flight of steps to reach the level
+of the floor of the excavated temple, and passing the blue-uniformed
+guards entered the grand hall of columns.
+The hall, as the guide had told us, was richly decorated.
+Master sculptors had carved every available space on
+the walls and columns with hieroglyphic inscriptions
+and beautiful reliefs; master artists in color had heightened
+the effect with tint and shade. Looking up we
+saw, pictured on the ceiling, the Egyptian deity, Nut,
+the goddess of the sky, controlling the movements of sun
+and stars; the rays of the sun shining in blessing on the
+head of Hathor; the moon issuing from Nut's mouth;
+the signs of the Zodiac; the flying Hours of day and
+night; and the sailing boats of the planets.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_331" id="Page_331">[Pg 331]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus338.jpg" width="300" height="412" alt="RICHLY DECORATED WITH CARVINGS AND PAINTINGS." title="RICHLY DECORATED WITH CARVINGS AND PAINTINGS." />
+<span class="caption">RICHLY DECORATED WITH CARVINGS AND PAINTINGS.</span>
+</div><p>
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_332" id="Page_332">[Pg 332]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figleft" style="width: 250px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus339.jpg" width="250" height="364" alt="OFFERED INCENSE TO THE GODS." title="OFFERED INCENSE TO THE GODS." />
+<span class="caption">OFFERED INCENSE TO THE GODS.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The guide raised a stone trap door less than two feet
+square in the stone floor and through this small entrance
+we squeezed, candle in hand, and descended a stone
+stairway to explore the dark crypt underneath. Although
+the ladies
+screamed when the
+bats, disturbed and
+blinded by the
+light, flew wildly
+overhead, they
+bravely followed
+the guide. The
+long passage was
+but three feet in
+width and we wondered
+why the
+dragoman had
+brought us down
+into its close and
+gloomy recesses;
+but when magnesium
+wires were lit,
+our wonder turned
+into admiration,
+for the sputtering
+white light revealed
+on the smooth sidewalls most beautiful reliefs in
+well preserved coloring.</p>
+
+<p>"Did you see anything remarkable in that dark
+cellar?" inquired a voice from above as we ascended
+through the trap.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_333" id="Page_333">[Pg 333]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>"Why didn't you come along?" was the laughing
+response.</p>
+
+<p>"I've not trained down to the proper size yet,"
+rejoined the fat man who could be jolly on all occasions.
+"Do you think that a man of my size could squeeze
+through a hole like that?"</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus340.jpg" width="500" height="414" alt="ENTERED THE GRAND HALL OF COLUMNS." title="ENTERED THE GRAND HALL OF COLUMNS." />
+<span class="caption">ENTERED THE GRAND HALL OF COLUMNS.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>By a long stone stairway of easy steps we ascended
+leisurely to the roof, stopping frequently to admire the
+ceremonial procession of priests pictured on the walls
+of the staircase. From the flat stone roof we saw on<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_334" id="Page_334">[Pg 334]</a></span>
+one side the green cultivated fields extending to the
+river's edge and on the other side the yellow desert
+stretching to the distant cliffs.</p>
+
+<p>"This is a picture of Cleopatra and her son Cæsarion,"
+said Mahmoud, as we inspected the reliefs on the outer
+walls, "and this is King Ptolemy offering incense to the
+gods Osiris and Isis, and hawk-headed Horus their son.
+Here also is Hathor's picture repeated many times."</p>
+
+<p>The trip down the river Nile on the fine steamer
+Amasis, which had been chartered for us, was thoroughly
+enjoyed by the forty-two people who made up the party.
+The staterooms were bright and clean and the meals
+served were equal to those of a first class hotel. The
+captain and his officials did all they could to make the
+trip pleasant for us. Life on board was a life of ease;
+the air though warm was balmy and restful, and cares
+were forgotten. The centre of the upper deck was
+roofed over but open at the sides with rugs on the
+floor, easy chairs, small tables, and a piano. In this
+open piazza-parlor we sipped the coffee that was served
+to us there after luncheon and after dinner. There, too,
+we partook of the tea and cakes that were handed around
+at four o'clock, and when we returned from excursions
+on shore, tired and warm, we found refreshing lemonade
+ready to quench our thirst.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus342.jpg" width="500" height="380" alt="RELIEFS ON THE OUTER WALL." title="RELIEFS ON THE OUTER WALL." />
+<span class="caption">RELIEFS ON THE OUTER WALL.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Our dragoman, Mahmoud Achmed, the Egyptian
+conductor of all our sight-seeing excursions on land,
+was an interesting character and became a great favorite.
+He was a native of Luxor and while we were at that
+place his bright-eyed little girl, neatly dressed, came to
+meet us. Mahmoud had a fund of information regard<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_335" id="Page_335">[Pg 335]</a></span>ing
+the history of the country, the legends of the gods,
+and the fabulous deeds of the ancient kings. He had a
+most interesting way of interspersing history with
+mythical tales and humorous incidents, and so kept the
+party in high spirits. Mahmoud was noted, too, for his
+ability to answer intelligently all reasonable inquiries
+and for his great patience in replying to many questions,
+that must have appeared to him very silly. Each day
+on the boat while we were all seated at dinner, Mahmoud
+came into the dining saloon and announced the program
+for the following days, always beginning: "Ladies and
+gentlemen, if you please," and closing with, "Monu<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_336" id="Page_336">[Pg 336]</a></span>ment
+tickets are very much wanted. Galloping donkeys
+is not allowed."</p>
+
+<p>For some one to mislay or forget a permit was a daily
+occurrence and the caution had to be repeated often.
+As to the donkeys, the riders paid no attention to the
+restriction, but walked, trotted, or galloped the donkeys
+as they felt inclined.</p>
+
+<p>During the daytime Mahmoud wore a plain gown
+suitable for traveling on shore in heat and dust, but in
+the evenings he was resplendent in robes of silk. One
+night, at the request of one of the ladies, he brought to
+the mid-deck five handsome silk gowns to be inspected
+by the tourists. He also brought his book of references
+written by people whom he had conducted. In this we
+read the dignified prose of preacher and college president,
+the practical remarks of business men, and the
+nonsensical lines of the rhymster. One of his feminine
+admirers, seemingly impressed by the dragoman's silk
+robes, polite attention, and general good humor, had
+left the following jingle on the record:</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">Who guided us all about the show,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Whether we wanted to go or no,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">And always pleased and made us go?<br /></span>
+<span class="i15">Mahmoud.<br /></span>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">Who whipped the donkey when he fell<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">And then the donkey boy as well,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">And dressed himself a howling swell?<br /></span>
+<span class="i15">Mahmoud.<br /></span>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">Who sat so sweetly at my feet<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">With red tarbouche and slippers neat<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">And stirred my heart with many a beat?<br /></span>
+<span class="i15">Mahmoud.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_338" id="Page_338">[Pg 338]</a></span><br /></span>
+</div><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">And now, when all the trip is done<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Rides to temples, and tombs, and fun,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">We may forget them all save one,<br /></span>
+<span class="i15">Mahmoud.<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus344.jpg" width="500" height="290" alt="THIS IS A PICTURE OF CLEOPATRA AND HER SON." title="THIS IS A PICTURE OF CLEOPATRA AND HER SON." />
+<span class="caption">THIS IS A PICTURE OF CLEOPATRA AND HER SON.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Mahmoud took great pride in showing his many
+references in prose and rhyme, and the members of our
+party were glad to contribute in prose to his collection.
+But at the end of the week we presented him with
+another testimonial of a more practical kind.</p>
+
+<p>"The Nile is a most wonderful river," remarked the
+professor one evening as we sat on the open deck watching
+the moonlight glisten on the green water. "Several
+other rivers rival it in length; the Congo is noted for its
+size; the Amazon, swelled by great tributaries, discharges
+a volume of water immensely greater; and
+the Missouri, including the Mississippi to the Gulf,
+may be longer; but the Nile is unique in that for twelve
+hundred miles it flows without a tributary through a
+rainless region. Not a drop of rain nor a single brook
+adds to its volume in all that distance, and a hot sun,
+canals, ditches, sakiyehs, shadoofs, and water carriers
+are continually taking away from it throughout every
+mile of its winding course. The river is wider here but
+it has less volume than one thousand miles farther up
+the stream. It is unique also in the regularity of the
+annual inundations, which begin on almost the same day,
+continue the same length of time, and rise to an almost
+similar height each year, and have done so annually for
+untold centuries. In our land a flood is a disaster causing
+loss and sorrow; in this country it is a blessing producing
+wealth and joy. When the slowly rising waters<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_339" id="Page_339">[Pg 339]</a></span>
+each year reach the figures on the stone column of the
+Nilometer which show that the Nile has spread abroad
+his fertile bounty by covering the cultivable lands, and
+has filled the dams and ditches for future needs, the
+news is spread abroad and the people rejoice with
+festivities and processions."</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus346.jpg" width="500" height="410" alt="&#39;TWAS SCENES LIKE THESE WE LOOKED UPON."
+title="&#39;TWAS SCENES LIKE THESE WE LOOKED UPON." />
+<span class="caption">&#39;TWAS SCENES LIKE THESE WE LOOKED UPON.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Before taking the trip on the Nile we had thought that
+the days on the river might become monotonous and
+tiresome; but we found, on the contrary, that every
+hour was full of interest. Each day some excursion on
+shore was taken. One day the patient donkeys carried<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_340" id="Page_340">[Pg 340]</a></span>
+the tourists on a long trip to the ruins of the great
+temple of Seti at Abydos to view its sculptured columns
+and famous list of kings. On another day carriages
+conveyed us to the rock tombs on the limestone hills
+above Assiout and we visited the bazaars and the noted
+potteries of that busy town. On the last day of our
+sail the donkeys of Bedrashen were called into service
+for a ride through the palm forest and green fields, past
+the fallen columns of Ramses, to Sakkara, the tombs
+of the sacred bulls, and the pictured tombs of Ptahhotep
+and Ti.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus347.jpg" width="500" height="400" alt="TROD ROUND AND ROUND THE WHEEL." title="TROD ROUND AND ROUND THE WHEEL." />
+<span class="caption">TROD ROUND AND ROUND THE WHEEL.</span>
+</div><p>
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_341" id="Page_341">[Pg 341]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus348.jpg" width="500" height="288" alt="THE COLUMNS AT ABYDOS ARE OF GREAT SIZE." title="THE COLUMNS AT ABYDOS ARE OF GREAT SIZE." />
+<span class="caption">THE COLUMNS AT ABYDOS ARE OF GREAT SIZE.</span>
+</div><p>
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_342" id="Page_342">[Pg 342]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>"This is the height of enjoyment," said a member
+of our party one day while we were lounging in easy chairs
+taking afternoon tea on the deck, and lazily watching
+the panoramic scenes as the Amasis steamed down the
+river.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus349.jpg" width="500" height="422" alt="DOTTED WITH PILES OF YELLOW WATER-JARS." title="DOTTED WITH PILES OF YELLOW WATER-JARS." />
+<span class="caption">DOTTED WITH PILES OF YELLOW WATER-JARS.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>It was scenes like these we looked upon. Along the
+banks of the river at short intervals, the shadoof man,
+or drawer of water, with his shadoof resembling an
+old-fashioned spring-pole or well sweep, drew up his<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_343" id="Page_343">[Pg 343]</a></span>
+dripping bucket and lowered it again, his only garment
+an apron at the waist.</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">All through the day the red-brown man<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Stands on his perch in the red-brown bank;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Waters never more gratefully ran,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Cucumbers never more greedily drank.<br /></span>
+<span class="i15">&mdash;Canon Rawnsley.<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>Where the bank was very high, a series of two, three,
+or four natives, each with his spring-pole, raised the
+water one to the other until it reached the top and was
+poured into the little channels that carried it over the
+rich, but very thirsty soil of a rainless land. On the
+river-bank, also, interspersed with the shadoofs of the
+poorer class of agriculturists, the more prosperous
+farmers, who were the happy possessors of buffaloes or
+camels, lifted the irrigating water from the stream by
+means of sakiyehs, or wooden power wheels, which
+creaked unceasingly as the patient camels or buffaloes,
+with eyes covered by blinders of mud, trod round and
+round the wheel.</p>
+
+<div class="poem"><div class="stanza">
+<span class="i0">Rough clout upon his patient head,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">The stately camel round doth go,<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">With gentle hesitating tread;<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">And yoked, and blind with frontlets, made<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Of black Nile mud, the buffalo<br /></span>
+<span class="i0">Plies with him his unequal trade.<br /></span>
+<span class="i15">&mdash;Canon Rawnsley.<br /></span>
+</div></div>
+
+<p>A large Dahabeah with rugs, easy chairs, and piano on
+deck, and the stars and stripes hanging listlessly overhead,
+floated by, propelled by fourteen Arab rowers&mdash;there
+being no wind to fill the sails. A drove of gray<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_344" id="Page_344">[Pg 344]</a></span>
+buffaloes, forty in number, were taking their bath,
+splashing the water like a party of schoolboys in a
+swimming pool. A group of women filled earthen jars
+at the water's edge, and with the dripping jars on their
+heads mounted the steep river bank. Here and there
+were irregular groups of mud huts, intersected by
+crooked alleys and surrounded by date palms, little
+villages where doves were flying overhead and from
+which came the sound of barking dogs to mingle with
+the puffs of the steamer. Flat-bottomed boats freighted
+with sugar cane lay with drooping sails in a noonday
+calm, or, later in the day, sped before the evening breeze.
+Near the pottery towns the river banks were dotted
+with yellow water jars in scattered piles ready for shipment
+to the city market. Immense stacks of the sugar-cane
+just harvested had been brought to the shore for
+conveyance to the sugar factories. And fields of cotton
+covered with white bloom extended into the distance.</p>
+
+<p>We could see, too, the fertile Nile valley, not more than
+ten miles in breadth at its widest part, bounded on
+both sides by ranges of yellow, barren cliffs. On the
+western side the cliffs were farthest away; on the
+eastern side the valley was narrow, and the cliffs were
+sometimes distant, sometimes so near that they completely
+crowded out the cultivable soil and approached
+to the water's edge.</p>
+
+<p>"There is something peculiar in the air of this dry
+land," observed one of the tourists after sitting quiet
+awhile. "The atmosphere lends a softness to the outlines
+of distant objects and adds delicate tints in the
+afternoon light. See how the barren cliffs are glorified<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_346" id="Page_346">[Pg 346]</a></span>
+with a flush of pink, the wheat fields are a brilliant
+green, and the barley fields, almost ready for the harvest,
+are golden. Even the mud huts and the white-washed
+mosque of that village on the western shore have
+lost their crude outlines and have become picturesque.
+At sunset the western sky will change to crimson and
+the eastern cliffs will change to gold. The sunsets,
+though, are not so gorgeous in coloring, nor do they
+show such striking contrasts as I have seen occasionally
+in my western home, but they are beautiful."</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus352.jpg" width="500" height="293" alt="ALL EYES WERE FIXED ON THE MAGICIAN&#39;S MOVEMENTS."
+title="ALL EYES WERE FIXED ON THE MAGICIAN&#39;S MOVEMENTS." />
+<span class="caption">ALL EYES WERE FIXED ON THE MAGICIAN&#39;S MOVEMENTSALL EYES WERE FIXED ON THE MAGICIAN&#39;S MOVEMENTS.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>During the latter part of our sail down the Nile, where
+the river broadened and was shallow, we had some
+interesting experiences with sandbars.</p>
+
+<p>"This is the Amasis' last trip of the season," said one
+of the officers as we stood on the upper deck at the bow
+of the steamer watching two sailors poling below.
+"The Nile always falls rapidly in the spring, the channels
+change, new sandbars form, and navigation becomes
+difficult. The water is now very low, and we have
+to be careful and alert wherever the river broadens as
+it does here before us."</p>
+
+<p>On account of the indications of shallowness ahead
+the Amasis was steaming very slowly, occasionally
+merely drifting with the current. The two Arab boatmen
+stationed in the bow continually tested the depth
+of the water with poles and shouted in Arabic the results
+of their measurements to the anxious commander on the
+deck above. Notwithstanding these precautions, our
+steamer occasionally scraped on the sandbars, sometimes
+sticking on them for a short time.</p>
+
+<p>"Surely this is an unlucky day," exclaimed the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_347" id="Page_347">[Pg 347]</a></span>
+captain later, looking at his watch as we came within
+sight of a railroad bridge with a draw in it that was then
+being closed for an approaching train. "It is now four
+o'clock, and, according to the official rules, that drawbridge
+is closed for the day and will not be opened for
+steamers to pass through until nine o'clock to-morrow
+morning. We shall have to anchor here until that time.
+That last stop of half an hour on the sandbar robs us of
+half a day's time."</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus354.jpg" width="500" height="412" alt="SHOVING FROM ITS DECK WITH LONG POLES." title="SHOVING FROM ITS DECK WITH LONG POLES." />
+<span class="caption">SHOVING FROM ITS DECK WITH LONG POLES.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The delay at the bridge was provoking, but a greater
+test of the temper of the officers and patience of the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_348" id="Page_348">[Pg 348]</a></span>
+passengers was to come. On Friday morning while at
+breakfast we felt a jar that caused the vessel suddenly to
+stop. We heard an unusual puffing of the engine
+and felt vibrations that caused the steamer to tremble
+and the dishes to rattle.</p>
+
+<p>"What's the matter? What's the trouble?" cried
+several.</p>
+
+<p>"Struck another sandbar," laconically remarked the
+doctor at the end of the table. "Eat your breakfast.
+We'll be off in a few minutes."</p>
+
+<p>But succeeding events proved that the doctor was a
+false prophet. For during the next twenty hours the
+Amasis lay helpless in the midst of the stream, notwithstanding
+all the attempts of the officials and crew to
+free her from the bar, and it was not until Saturday
+morning that their efforts were crowned with success and
+the steamer floated free.</p>
+
+<p>However, we took the doctor's advice the first morning
+and finished our omelet and coffee. Then we hurried
+to the deck to investigate and ask numberless questions
+of the worried officials. Our baggage had been packed
+in anticipation of landing before noon at Cairo, which
+was but sixty miles distant, and we feared that a delay
+might interfere with our plans for a busy afternoon of
+sight-seeing in the city.</p>
+
+<p>"'Misery loves company,' says an old proverb. If
+that is true we should be happy," remarked one of the
+tourists as we gathered on the deck gazing at an animated
+scene. "Look! There are thirty boats in the
+same predicament as our own."</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus356.jpg" width="500" height="293" alt="PALMS GROW ON THE SITE OF ANCIENT MEMPHIS." title="PALMS GROW ON THE SITE OF ANCIENT MEMPHIS." />
+<span class="caption">PALMS GROW ON THE SITE OF ANCIENT MEMPHIS.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Within sight in different directions on the wide river<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_350" id="Page_350">[Pg 350]</a></span>
+lay thirty loaded feluccas stranded on the bars, and in
+addition to these were sixty-five others not aground.
+Alongside of one laden with live cattle a dozen sailors
+were in the shallow water, shouting and splashing,
+endeavoring to push their sloop off the bar. On many
+of the stranded sloops the sailors were transferring parts
+of their cargoes to other boats which were not aground.
+At some places the dark-hued laborers were shoveling
+grain from a stranded felucca into a lighter one; at
+others they were carrying unwieldy bundles of sugar-cane
+from one deck to another. Here they were handling,
+with much difficulty, large blocks of stone; there
+throwing yellow water-jars one at a time, passing red-bricks
+slowly, or shifting stacks of green clover from
+deck to deck. They accompanied the work of disburdening
+the vessels with strange cries and chants in which
+the name of Allah noticeably recurred, occasionally
+stopping to test the result of their labor by plunging
+into the water and pushing the felucca, or by shoving
+from its deck with long poles.</p>
+
+<p>One of the officers of the Amasis with some sailors in
+a row-boat carried an anchor to its cable's length from
+the steamer and dropped it in the water, then a donkey-engine
+on deck to which the cable was attached was
+started and the steamer shook with the throbs of the
+engine endeavoring to pull it off the bar toward the
+anchor. Unsuccessful in tugging the steamer in that
+direction, they raised the anchor into the row-boat
+and took it to other locations one after another; but the
+engine panted and throbbed in vain. In the meantime
+the captain had gone to a village on the shore, had hired<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_352" id="Page_352">[Pg 352]</a></span>
+sixty natives, and brought them out in boats. The
+Arabs, dropping off their long blue gowns, and arrayed
+only in loin cloths, jumped into the water, which was
+not over three feet in depth. Then, placing their
+shoulders against the steamer, the gang of naked Arabs,
+chanting in unison a prayer to Allah for help and protection,
+pushed, or pretended to push, in order to assist
+the puffing engine in its task. With intermissions for
+rest, the pushing, the throbbing, and the chanting of
+the Arabic song, "Allah il Allah, Allah il Allah," continued
+during the remainder of the day.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus358.jpg" width="500" height="295" alt="THE PROSTRATE BROKEN STATUE OF RAMSES II IS ENORMOUS."
+title="THE PROSTRATE BROKEN STATUE OF RAMSES II IS ENORMOUS." />
+<span class="caption">THE PROSTRATE BROKEN STATUE OF RAMSES II IS ENORMOUS.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>There was so much of interest happening around them
+that the passengers could scarcely take time to eat their
+meals, and their disappointment in not reaching Cairo
+was almost forgotten.</p>
+
+<p>"This has been to me one of the most interesting days
+of the trip. I will mark it with a red letter," said one
+of our party in the evening. "I do not regret the delay.
+I would not have missed those amusing and novel
+sights for anything."</p>
+
+<p>When efforts were resumed at dawn on Saturday, the
+Amasis floated free, and before noon we arrived at Cairo.
+Our joyous trip on the Nile, with its pleasant associations
+of fellow voyagers, dragomen, donkey boys, temples,
+tombs, and gallops over the sand, was at an end.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_353" id="Page_353">[Pg 353]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XVI" id="CHAPTER_XVI"></a>CHAPTER XVI.</h2>
+
+<p class="center">NAPLES AND POMPEII.</p>
+
+
+<p>By noon on Sunday, March twenty-second, the various
+parties had reassembled as one large family
+on board the Moltke in the harbor of Alexandria,
+and shortly afterward they saw the land of the palms disappear
+from sight below the horizon. Friends and
+acquaintances who had chosen different excursions on
+land and had been separated for some time had many
+experiences to relate to one another. Some, who had
+taken the Damascus trip, gave a description of the magnificent
+ruins of the famous temple of Baalbek and of the
+enormous size of the granite blocks which lay scattered
+over the ground at that place, and displayed bargains in
+hammered brass and silken rugs which they had secured
+in the bazaars of the oldest city in the world. Others,
+who had taken a sail on blue Galilee and a journey on
+horseback through the interior of Palestine, told of the
+unexpected luxuries of camp life, of squalid villages and
+more squalid inhabitants, of bridgeless streams that had
+to be forded, of Arab camps and Bedouin chiefs, and of
+towns, mountains, plains, and wells, the names of which
+were familiar to the student of the Bible. They showed
+to their friends albums in which they had pressed the
+flowers gathered in villages where the Savior once
+strayed, or culled in fields through which He probably
+had trod. Some who had taken a carriage ride to the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_354" id="Page_354">[Pg 354]</a></span>
+Dead Sea and the River Jordan described the loneliness
+of the road and the armed Bedouin protectors who
+accompanied them, the dilapidated condition of Jericho,
+the desolate shores and bitter salty taste of the Sea, the
+muddy banks of the River Jordan and a row on the
+rapid stream. Their souvenirs were vials filled with
+salt water from the Sea, and bottles of the fresh, but not
+very clear water from Jordan's stream.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus361.jpg" width="500" height="403" alt="ON THE BANK OF THE RIVER JORDAN." title="ON THE BANK OF THE RIVER JORDAN." />
+<span class="caption">ON THE BANK OF THE RIVER JORDAN.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>"The only place where we were treated with disrespect
+during our trip was in Hebron," said one of a
+group around a table in the library. "There the natives<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_355" id="Page_355">[Pg 355]</a></span>
+were an ill-tempered set. They scowled as if resentful
+of our presence, and when we were driving away some
+hoodlums of the town threw chunks of mud and stone
+after our carriage."</p>
+
+<p>"That reminds me," said another, "of a picture I
+want to show you. On the landing at Esneh up the
+Nile we thought that our clothes would be torn to pieces
+by the natives, but not through ill-will. The donkey
+boys were so eager to secure our custom that a struggle
+ensued in which donkey boys, donkeys, and tourists
+were inextricably mixed until the dragoman used his
+whip. My brother took a snap-shot of the scene just
+as Achmet raised his whip."</p>
+
+<p>Some of the tourists had stayed ten days in Jerusalem,
+some twelve days in Cairo, others had been at Philæ
+and the Cataract of the Nile. Each one was enthusiastic
+over his trip and appeared to be satisfied with the
+way in which the eighteen days in Palestine and Egypt
+had been spent.</p>
+
+<p>Monday dawned cloudy with some wind and rain, and
+although the weather was not stormy, the boat had that
+uneasy motion which had been felt once before on the
+Mediterranean. Many of the tourists, believing prevention
+better than cure, remained in their staterooms,
+or, snugly wrapped, reclined in their steamer chairs on
+deck and had luncheon served to them there, fewer than
+half the seats at the dining table being occupied.</p>
+
+<p>On Tuesday, however, the sea was as smooth as a
+river. The "Captain's Dinner," which had been postponed
+from the previous day on account of the weather,
+was announced for the evening, and the dining room<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_356" id="Page_356">[Pg 356]</a></span>
+was handsomely decorated with flags, garlands of artificial
+roses, and additional lights for the special occasion.
+The depression of Monday was forgotten and the
+tourists were in a happy humor.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus363.jpg" width="500" height="410" alt="FILLED VIALS WITH WATER FROM THE DEAD SEA." title="FILLED VIALS WITH WATER FROM THE DEAD SEA." />
+<span class="caption">FILLED VIALS WITH WATER FROM THE DEAD SEA.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>At the dinner the Captain made a neat speech referring
+to the pleasant relations during the voyage and the
+separation which was shortly to take place. The
+judge, in behalf of the passengers, responded in a jovial
+vein. "Three cheers for the Captain" were given with
+enthusiasm, followed by "He's a jolly good fellow,"
+heartily sung. Every one arose as the orchestra played<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_357" id="Page_357">[Pg 357]</a></span>
+"America," and later, when the stars and stripes were
+dropped from overhead, all rose again to accompany
+the orchestra in the "Star Spangled Banner." Then
+the electric lights were turned out and while we sat in
+darkness, the stewards and waiters, dressed in fantastic
+costumes of various nations, entered and in a long
+procession marched around the room, each waiter carrying
+aloft an illuminated tower of ice-cream, and each
+steward a dish of bonbons. When the bonbons, containing
+whistles and fancy caps, were opened, the
+dignity of judge, professor, and minister was laid aside
+and the tourists were a joyous, noisy crowd of children.</p>
+
+<p>While we were at dinner the promenade deck was
+cleared of chairs, decorated with flags, and illuminated
+with Chinese lanterns in preparation for a masked ball
+which was to be the crowning and closing event of the
+day. In this fancy-dress carnival many of the passengers
+appeared dressed in fantastic gowns prepared
+during the day, or as Orientals in costumes that had been
+purchased in Eastern cities.</p>
+
+<p>While the maskers and onlookers were enjoying the
+music and sport, the Moltke was steaming northward
+through the Strait of Messina. On the right shone the
+lighthouses of Italy and the lights of the Italian town
+of Reggio; on the left gleamed the flash-lights of Sicily
+and long rows of twinkles revealed the location of the
+large city of Messina.</p>
+
+<p>On rising Wednesday morning we found the sea
+perfectly smooth with scarcely a ripple to disturb its
+blue surface. The Moltke was speeding through the
+waters with an almost imperceptible motion. On our<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_358" id="Page_358">[Pg 358]</a></span>
+left was the island of Capri, famous for its blue grotto,
+and the morning sunlight playing on its rugged shores,
+revealed a white road cut in the rocky cliffs, zigzagging
+up the side of the hill from the village at the base to the
+village on the summit. As the steamer coasted the
+Italian shore, we saw dimly through the mist the bay
+and town of Salerno, then picturesque Sorrento perched
+among the rocks, and, in the distance, fog-crowned
+Mount Vesuvius with a thin column of smoke ascending
+from the crater, and many towns and villages at its
+base. Directly ahead of us were the bay of Naples and
+the city, partially hidden from our sight by a fog. Just
+before reaching the quarantine station a small steamer
+crowded with passengers emerged from the fog and
+crossed the course of the Moltke, narrowly escaping destruction.</p>
+
+<p>The Moltke dropped anchor at quarantine and a
+yellow flag was run to the top of the mast to remain
+floating there until the Italian physician had completed
+his examination and was convinced that there were not,
+and had not been, any cases of plague, cholera, or contagious
+disease on the ship. During the detention at
+quarantine a large mail was brought on board. We
+crowded eagerly into the office inquiring for letters.
+The stewards, not taking time to distribute the mail in
+the boxes, called out the addresses, and little thought
+was given to anything else until letters and papers were
+obtained and the news from home devoured.</p>
+
+<p>The fog soon rolled away and Naples, beautifully
+situated on the crescent-shaped shores of the bay, was
+disclosed to view. From the deck of the steamer we saw a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_359" id="Page_359">[Pg 359]</a></span>
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_360" id="Page_360">[Pg 360]</a></span>picture unsurpassed in color and composition by any
+previously beheld, excepting, perhaps, the view of
+Constantinople from the Bosporus, or the panorama
+of Algiers seen from the sea; but each one of the three
+pictures was unique and beyond comparison. But
+here, as at Constantinople, distance lent an enchantment
+to the view; for a closer inspection after landing revealed
+on the white and yellow and pink buildings ravages of
+time and unsightly stains of smoke and grime unnoticed
+from the bay.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 300px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus366.jpg" width="300" height="411" alt="THE GREAT DOORWAY OF THE TEMPLE OF HORUS AT EDFU."
+title="THE GREAT DOORWAY OF THE TEMPLE OF HORUS AT EDFU. " />
+<span class="caption">THE GREAT DOORWAY OF THE TEMPLE OF HORUS AT EDFU.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>We had no sooner reached the street, ready for sight-seeing,
+than the cabriolet drivers thronged about,
+importuning us to ride in the low open carriages that
+comfortably carry two persons.</p>
+
+<p>"How much to the Cathedral?" we asked one of the
+drivers, using an expression that we thought the Italian
+might comprehend.</p>
+
+<p>"One lira the course, one and a half lire the hour,"
+he succeeded in getting us to understand.</p>
+
+<p>"Only ten cents each. And it's fully two miles to the
+Cathedral!" exclaimed my companion. "But we have
+a number of places to visit," he added, "and it will be
+better to engage the cab by the hour. Show him your
+watch and make a note of the time."</p>
+
+<p>At the entrance of the Cathedral, the beggars asking
+alms reminded us of the description of similar scenes at
+the gate of the Temple in the Savior's time. A blind
+man standing by the door called loudly upon the passers-by
+to have pity on him, a cripple seated on the steps
+with rough crooked crutches by his side stretched out
+his hand for aid, and a fat dirty woman with a tiny<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_362" id="Page_362">[Pg 362]</a></span>
+babe in her arms whiningly cried, "poveretta mia!
+poveretta mia!"</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus368a.jpg" width="500" height="145" alt="I. THE ISLAND OF CAPRI." title="I. THE ISLAND OF CAPRI." />
+<span class="caption">I. THE ISLAND OF CAPRI.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus368b.jpg" width="500" height="140" alt="II. VILLAGE AT ITS BASE AND VILLAGE ON ITS SUMMIT." title="II. VILLAGE AT ITS BASE AND VILLAGE ON ITS SUMMIT." />
+<span class="caption">II. VILLAGE AT ITS BASE AND VILLAGE ON ITS SUMMIT.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The regular services in the Cathedral were over when
+we entered, but many people were in the building.
+Some were in silent adoration before the Cross at the magnificent
+high altar; some were worshiping at the foot of
+the Virgin, or praying at the shrines of the saints; others
+were contritely kneeling at the confessional boxes with
+faces close to the little grated windows, whispering
+deeds of misdoing to the confessor within and awaiting
+the father's words of penance or of absolution. We
+followed a crowd of Italians who were going into a
+chapel at the side where preparations were being made
+for a special service. There being no pews or sittings
+in the chapel, but a few plain chairs for hire, we
+paid the verger two cents for the use of a chair and
+waited. Wooden benches were placed in line to form
+an aisle and a number of women and children knelt
+at the benches, each holding a large unlighted candle.</p>
+
+<p>A cardinal in a red robe came down the aisle, accompanied
+by a surpliced acolyte bearing a cup of oil.
+As the cardinal passed each kneeling person, he dipped
+his thumb into the oil and then, repeating a formula,
+made a sign of the cross with his thumb on the worshiper's
+forehead. A priest in black cassock and a chorister
+in white followed the cardinal, the priest wiping the
+foreheads with a piece of cotton and the chorister taking
+the candles which were handed to him as offerings to
+the church.</p>
+
+<p>The doors of the magnificently adorned Cathedral
+were open to rich and poor alike; but the poor were<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_363" id="Page_363">[Pg 363]</a></span>
+in the majority, and among them appeared such cases
+of slovenly poverty as we had not seen elsewhere,
+not even in Jerusalem or Constantinople, for in the Moslem
+cities fountains were at the gates of the mosques
+and no worshiper entered the sacred edifice with soiled
+hands or feet. Three cases of slovenliness we noted particularly.
+A woman of middle age, with tangled hair,
+torn, untidy dress and soiled, stockingless feet partially
+covered by dilapidated slippers, was violating the
+rules of the church by sidling up to strangers and
+stealthily begging within the building; a boy, probably
+sixteen years of age, hatless, shoeless, coatless, with
+pantaloons in need of patches and body in need of
+soap, stood gazing curiously at the ceremony; and a
+man whose whole attire consisted of a ragged shirt and
+cotton trousers, with marks of grime on hands, neck,
+and face, leaned carelessly against a pillar with bare feet
+thrust forward. But these were extreme and exceptional
+cases of untidiness, the worshipers generally being neatly
+clad and careful of their personal appearance.</p>
+
+<p>The military band was playing on a platform when
+we visited the park and the paths and the grass plats
+were filled with people, many standing and a few seated
+on chairs. Noticing some unoccupied chairs, we sat down
+to listen to the music and watch the life and movement
+of a Neapolitan crowd. We had scarcely taken our
+places when a woman with a badge and a bag approached,
+demanding ten centessimi for each seat.
+"Gratia!" she said when paid, and "Gratia!" we responded,
+grateful for a comfortable resting place.</p>
+
+<p>"I thought, before we started on this trip, that sight-<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_364" id="Page_364">[Pg 364]</a></span>seeing
+prolonged day after day might become monotonous
+and that I might lose interest," remarked one of
+the group seated on the chairs, "but, on the contrary,
+I find continual variety. Our drive through the beautiful
+residence section and suburbs on the heights this
+morning was charming, and the extensive landscape
+and marine view from the Convent of Camaldoli is
+unsurpassed, save by the view from Mustapha Superieur.
+Each place visited has differed so thoroughly
+from all the others that my interest is as intense now as
+when we landed at fascinating Funchal."</p>
+
+<p>"In each city I am compelled to replenish my stock
+of films; I find so many pleasing subjects," replied an
+artist who always had his camera with him. "Did you
+see those women on the hillside road at Capri carrying
+wine kegs on their heads? They posed for me to take
+a picture of the group. It was not necessary to tell
+them to look pleasant; every face wore a smile. I am
+sorry that my kodak does not reproduce colors. The
+dresses of the women, though worn and faded, were
+very picturesque in their combinations of scarlets, blues,
+and yellows."</p>
+
+<p>"And I regret that cameras cannot reproduce the
+beautiful azure and silver tints of the interior of the
+Blue Grotto just as we saw it yesterday," said one of the
+ladies who was collecting photographs and postal cards.
+"I want a good picture of the Grotto Azzurra but I
+cannot find one. Those that are offered for sale are
+such poor imitations."</p>
+
+<p>After the concert was over, we entered the salt water
+aquarium of Naples, which is famous throughout Europe<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_365" id="Page_365">[Pg 365]</a></span>
+as the finest and largest ichthyological collection in the
+world. In the glass tanks curious sea fish darted
+through the water, grotesque sea monsters crawled
+over the pebbles, and transparent jelly fish floated
+slowly; pink and white sea anemones, like a bed of
+flowers, opened and closed, and diminutive sea animals,
+almost invisible, spread thread-like tentacles; sponges
+and coral grew upon the rocks, and mollusks showed by
+their movements that they had life.</p>
+
+<p>One evening we drove to the suburban village of
+Posilipo and from the cliffs at that place saw the sun
+descend in glory, a golden ball dropping into a radiant
+sea. While we were returning, a picturesque beggar
+with a crooked stick and one string across it trotted
+alongside our carriage, trying to convince us that he was
+a musician and his music worth a penny. At dusk, an
+Italian boy ran alongside the carriage, opened and lit
+the carriage lamps while the horse was moving at a rapid
+gait, and asked for payment.</p>
+
+<p>Naples is a city of striking contrasts. It was interesting
+to study them. We drove over well paved streets,
+admiring marble palaces, great hotels, and beautiful
+homes; but with feelings very different from admiration
+we walked through narrow, filthy thoroughfares, densely
+populated, where networks of clothes lines with garments
+of all colors hung overhead. We saw high-spirited
+horses and superb carriages in the avenues and
+parks, and teams of handsome cream-colored oxen in
+the suburbs: but we saw also in the highways, small,
+rough-coated donkeys overburdened with panniers of
+fruit; tall, bony horses mismatched with diminutive<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_366" id="Page_366">[Pg 366]</a></span>
+donkeys; incongruous teams composed of a cow and a
+donkey, or a large ox and a small cow; and a team even
+more grotesquely made up of a horse, a cow, and a
+donkey. We saw the elite of the city elegantly dressed
+in the latest fashion promenading in the shopping districts;
+but on the sidewalks of the tenement district we
+saw slovenly barefooted women washing clothes, cooking
+maccaroni, scrubbing children in a tub, and combing
+children's hair with fine combs, regardless of our
+curious gaze. Here, too, we saw boys, apparently eight
+or ten years of age, playing in the streets with no other
+clothing than a shirt reaching to the knees, and women
+peddlers of mineral water dressed in ragged red blouses
+and blue skirts, who, with disordered hair and stockingless,
+slipshod feet, shuffled by pushing hand-carts filled
+with earthen jugs.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus373.jpg" width="500" height="213" alt="PEASANT GIRLS THEIR BURDENS BEAR." title="PEASANT GIRLS THEIR BURDENS BEAR." />
+<span class="caption">PEASANT GIRLS THEIR BURDENS BEAR.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>On the avenues street peddlers besought us to purchase
+canes, matches, coral beads, and souvenirs cut out of
+lava, but asked prices four or five times their actual<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_368" id="Page_368">[Pg 368]</a></span>
+value. On the narrow streets dealers in cooked viands
+for the home trade did an active business at low prices,
+but did not think it worth while to offer us the hot
+potatoes, maccaroni, fried fish, and stewed meats which
+they prepared on little sidewalk stoves.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus374.jpg" width="500" height="290" alt="AMALFI, WHERE THE WAVES AND MOUNTAINS MEET." title="AMALFI, WHERE THE WAVES AND MOUNTAINS MEET." />
+<span class="caption">AMALFI, WHERE THE WAVES AND MOUNTAINS MEET.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The trip from Naples to Pompeii was made by rail in
+less than an hour. At the gates of the enclosure we each
+paid an admission fee of two lire, or forty cents, and
+official guides were assigned to conduct the party through
+the streets of the excavated city.</p>
+
+<p>"About one hundred and fifty years ago," explained
+the guide, "a farmer ploughed up some objects of art in
+this locality. The government, hearing of the discovery,
+ordered investigation to be made. Removal of the soil
+disclosed a house and furniture and articles of value.
+The excavations, carried on irregularly for a century,
+then continued regularly but slowly for the past fifty
+years and still in progress, revealed the ancient city that
+had been smothered in ashes and buried from sight for
+eighteen hundred years. The wooden roofs, crushed in
+by the weight above them, had crumbled into dust, but
+the walls and columns, the altars and statues, the fountains
+and baths, the paved streets and mosaic pavements,
+and the frescoes on the walls had been preserved by the
+covering of ashes, and were in almost as good condition
+as when deserted by the terror-stricken inhabitants. All
+articles of value, as soon as found by the excavators,
+were carried away to the museums and carefully preserved;
+but the uncovered walls were left exposed to the
+weather, and, as you will see, are badly damaged and
+defaced. The government for the past few years, how<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_369" id="Page_369">[Pg 369]</a></span>ever,
+has been protecting the newly excavated buildings
+by enclosing and roofing them over, and in these
+we shall find the beautiful Pompeian red and blue colors
+and the dainty frescoes well preserved on the walls."</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus376.jpg" width="500" height="324" alt="BEARING PANNIERS OF FRUITS AND VEGETABLES." title="BEARING PANNIERS OF FRUITS AND VEGETABLES." />
+<span class="caption">BEARING PANNIERS OF FRUITS AND VEGETABLES.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>This ancient city of probably only twenty-five thousand
+inhabitants had improvements that we now designate
+as modern. The streets, just wide enough for
+one wagon track with narrow footways on each side,
+were paved with square flat stones in which the chariots
+had cut deep wheel ruts. The public baths had separate
+rooms for men and women, exercise courts, sweating
+rooms, furnace heat, hot baths, cold baths, capacious
+marble plunge tanks, and cooling rooms in which the
+bathers, cleansed, oiled, and perfumed, could rest after<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_370" id="Page_370">[Pg 370]</a></span>
+the bath. The water supply was distributed through
+the city in the same manner as in our own cities. Lead
+water pipes conducted the water through streets and
+into buildings. Bronze stopcocks governed the fountains,
+and bronze inlets and outlets regulated the supply
+at the marble baths.</p>
+
+<p>"The Pompeian plumbers used good material and did
+good work," commented a manufacturer after examining
+the plumbing.</p>
+
+<p>"If I could produce paints that would endure for
+centuries, and have them laid on as the Pompeian artists
+applied them, my fortune would soon be made," remarked
+another, who had been impressed particularly
+by the brightness of the red and blue on the walls of the
+House of Sallust. "But," he added, "the secret of
+making paint that will endure the ravages of time has
+been lost."</p>
+
+<p>In a baker's shop we saw four small stone mills in
+which grain had been converted to flour by hand power,
+the stones having been revolved by means of long wooden
+handles. Near the mills was an oven similar to those
+of the present time.</p>
+
+<p>"In this oven a number of loaves of bread were
+found," said the guide.</p>
+
+<p>"Yes," answered one of our party, "we saw fourteen
+loaves in the Museum of Naples yesterday and were told
+that it was the oldest bread in existence. The loaves
+were well preserved in form but were as black as charcoal."</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus378.jpg" width="500" height="388" alt="MADE A PICTURE THAT PLEASED THE ARTIST." title="MADE A PICTURE THAT PLEASED THE ARTIST." />
+<span class="caption">MADE A PICTURE THAT PLEASED THE ARTIST.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Our interest in Pompeii was heightened by our previously
+having visited the Naples Museum, where a<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_371" id="Page_371">[Pg 371]</a></span>
+multitude of articles found during the excavations were
+on exhibition. There we had examined hundreds of
+objects of art, marble statues, bronze statues, mosaics,
+vases, frescoes, and paintings; we had seen thousands
+of ornaments for personal adornment, necklaces, cameos,
+bracelets, rings, chains, and toilet accessories and
+had looked at numberless articles for household use, such
+as stoves, lamps, dishes, and kitchen utensils. Even food
+was not lacking in the exhibition, being represented by
+olives in a jar, oil in bottles, charred walnuts, almonds,
+figs, wheat, and eggs. These things, abandoned by the
+fugitives in their wild flight, helped us to imagine the<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_372" id="Page_372">[Pg 372]</a></span>
+taste and manner of living of the Pompeians before the
+destruction of their city.</p>
+
+<p>"This is the Amphitheatre," said the guide, as we
+assembled around him in the arena of a large structure.
+"Here fights between wild beasts, gladiatorial combats,
+and other great spectacles took place. Underneath the
+seats on one side are the dens where the lions and tigers
+were kept in a starving condition to make them ferocious,
+and underneath on the other side are the dungeons
+where prisoners were confined until forced into
+the arena to meet the wild beasts. On the hill nearby
+are the barracks where the gladiators lived and trained
+for combats." An announcement of an oldtime entertainment
+remains inscribed on one of the stone walls.
+It reads as follows:</p>
+
+<blockquote><p>Twenty pairs of gladiators, at the expense of Decimus, a
+priest, and ten pairs of gladiators, at the expense of Lucretius,
+will fight at Pompeii on the eleventh of April. There will be a
+complete hunting scene, and the awnings will be spread.</p></blockquote>
+
+<p>Another inscription on the wall stated:</p>
+
+<blockquote><p>On the dedication of the baths, at the expense of Maius,
+there will be a hunt, athletic sports, showering of perfumes,
+etc., at the Amphitheatre.</p></blockquote>
+
+<p>"There was also a Tragic Theatre in Pompeii," continued
+the guide. "It was reserved for dramatic performances.
+The stone tiers seated an audience of five
+thousand. The Amphitheatre and the Tragic were
+open to the sky, but both were provided with awnings
+that could be spread above the seats to protect the
+people from the sun."<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_373" id="Page_373">[Pg 373]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus380a.jpg" width="500" height="147" alt="I. LATELY EXCAVATED ARE CAREFULLY PROTECTED." title="I. LATELY EXCAVATED ARE CAREFULLY PROTECTED." />
+<span class="caption">I. LATELY EXCAVATED ARE CAREFULLY PROTECTED.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus380b.jpg" width="500" height="142" alt="II. PUBLIC BATHS WITH ARCADES." title="II. PUBLIC BATHS WITH ARCADES." />
+<span class="caption">II. PUBLIC BATHS WITH ARCADES.</span>
+</div><p>
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_374" id="Page_374">[Pg 374]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>Almost all of us had read Bulwer-Lytton's novel,
+"The Last Days of Pompeii," and were familiar with
+his vivid description of the fearful eruption of Vesuvius
+which overwhelmed the city in the year A.D. 79,&mdash;the
+darkness, the terror of the people, the hasty flight, the
+roar of explosions, the volcanic lightnings, the scorching
+ashes, the sulphurous fumes, and the hot rain. Very
+interesting to us were the places described by Bulwer
+in his novel; the dwelling of the magistrate Pansa, the
+villa of the wealthy Diomede where eighteen skeletons
+surrounded by provisions and jewels had been found,
+the house of the poet Glaucus whose threshold was
+guarded by the mosaic of a chained dog with the now
+well known motto 'Cave Canem' or 'Beware of the Dog.'
+Most interesting, perhaps, was the Temple of Isis, in
+which the most exciting incidents of Bulwer's novel
+took place. There the guide showed us the altar, the
+well, the secret stairway, the platform from which the
+oracle spoke, and the spot where the skeleton of the
+priest with an ax was found.</p>
+
+<p>"Broken columns and ruined walls are all that remain
+of the grandeur of the Forum," explained the guide as
+he led the way through a triumphal arch into a large
+area. "These extensive marble-paved floors were once
+decorated with statues of the illustrious men of Pompeii."</p>
+
+<p>"The Forum was a bustling place," he continued, as
+we stood in the centre of the area. "In the open court
+the people met to exchange opinions and obtain the
+news. On the porticoes the money changers made
+loans and the brokers sold real estate and grain. It was
+the political center of the city. Here the magistrates<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_376" id="Page_376">[Pg 376]</a></span>
+administered justice. Here the populace met with joyful
+acclamations to raise a favorite to power, and here,
+too, angry mobs gathered to compel an offending ruler
+to vacate his office. It was the religious centre as well;
+for adjoining the Forum are the ruins of the Temple
+of Mercury, the Temple of Venus, the Temple of Jupiter,
+and the Temple of Augustus."</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus382.jpg" width="500" height="288" alt="MOST INTERESTING, PERHAPS, IS THE TEMPLE OF ISIS." title="MOST INTERESTING, PERHAPS, IS THE TEMPLE OF ISIS." />
+<span class="caption">MOST INTERESTING, PERHAPS, IS THE TEMPLE OF ISIS.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>When we were ready to leave Pompeii, after a tramp
+through other streets and a visit to the Museum, the
+subject of giving a fee to the guide was considered. At
+the gate when entering we had read a notice stating that
+guides furnished by the government were not permitted
+to accept fees from visitors. The guide assigned to us,
+however, had been very obliging and had given much
+interesting information. Appreciating this we slipped
+into his hand secretly at parting a token of our good will.
+"Gratia! Gratia!" very heartily he responded, assuring
+us that our gift, the forbidden, was acceptable.</p>
+
+<p>After returning from Pompeii to our steamship we
+found that although the evening hours had arrived, the
+harbor was still a scene of animation. Scores of Italian
+stevedores were carrying baskets of coal on their
+shoulders from barges into the bunkers of the Moltke.
+Near by other laborers were hoisting crates of lemons
+and oranges and lowering them into the hold of an
+English steamer. A little rowboat with a stove on
+board was running a brisk restaurant business, selling
+bread, coffee, fried eggs, fried potatoes, and fried fish
+to boatmen and laborers, who managed to devour the
+viands without assistance of plate, knife, or fork.</p>
+
+<p>Alongside our steamer a number of boys in a rowboat<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_377" id="Page_377">[Pg 377]</a></span>
+were making a distracting noise with tin pans and crude
+instruments, looking up in the hope that some one would
+pay them for creating a disturbance. In another boat,
+gaily attired Neapolitan musicians played and sang
+popular airs in a pleasing way that drew coins from the
+pockets of the hearers. At the close of each piece of
+music one of the women held a spread umbrella upside
+down to catch the coppers that were dropped into it
+from the deck thirty feet above.</p>
+
+<p>"The daylight ends too soon," regretfully observed
+one of our party, an artist of considerable reputation,
+who, seated in his favorite nook near the stern, was
+endeavoring to complete his color notes and sketches
+of the picturesque scenes before the darkness hid them
+from view. "But the sky above the mountain is
+reddening and the glow of Vesuvius will give me work
+for to-night."<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_378" id="Page_378">[Pg 378]</a></span></p>
+
+
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+<h2><a name="CHAPTER_XVII" id="CHAPTER_XVII"></a>CHAPTER XVII.</h2>
+
+<p class="center">NICE AND MENTONE.</p>
+
+
+<p>Throughout the cruise to the Orient, up to the
+time of departure from Naples, our party of
+tourists had the great steamer to themselves,
+there being no other passengers on board. At Naples,
+however, a change took place. As the Steamship
+Company granted us the privilege of remaining over
+in Europe and returning later in the season in some
+other steamer of the same line, a large number of the
+tourists left the Moltke at Naples for side trips on the
+Continent, and many more intended to leave at Nice;
+so that not more than one-fourth of the original number
+was booked to return direct from Nice to New York.
+During the time our steamer lay at Naples a cargo of
+freight was taken on board, and on the day of departure
+one thousand steerage passengers ascended the gangway,
+some with valises of curious shape, a few dragging
+trunks, but the greater number with all their possessions
+in bags or bundles.</p>
+
+<p>At ten o'clock on the night of March thirtieth, we
+stood at the rail watching the lights on the shore gradually
+disappearing from sight as the Moltke steamed
+away from the harbor.</p>
+
+<p>"What must be the thoughts of these Neapolitan
+exiles as they sail away from 'Sunny Italy,' their place
+of birth, their homeland, and their friends?" mused my<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_379" id="Page_379">[Pg 379]</a></span>
+friend, referring to the emigrants gazing farewell to
+their native land.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus386.jpg" width="500" height="426" alt="MANY CLOTHES-LINES WERE FILLED." title="MANY CLOTHES-LINES WERE FILLED." />
+<span class="caption">MANY CLOTHES-LINES WERE FILLED.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>"There is sadness in their hearts, for their faces and
+attitudes show it," said he, answering his own question.
+"Some of the women are shedding tears. But they are
+all hopeful. They have heard that in the promised
+land there is plenty of work, high wages, enough to eat,
+and, what is far better, opportunity to rise. In Italy
+there is scarcity of work, low wages, a chunk of black
+bread, and nothing better to look forward to in the
+future."<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_380" id="Page_380">[Pg 380]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>"You are right, young man, there is something to
+look forward to in America, an opportunity to rise in the
+world," said a fellow tourist, well known as a man of
+wealth and distinction. "I can sympathize with these
+poor people who are seeking to better their condition.
+Thirty years ago I was a poor man, leaving Europe in
+the steerage as an emigrant to the land of promise. I
+worked my way to the West, became a miner, and met
+with success."</p>
+
+<p>"To reach America appears to be the desire of many
+in Italy," remarked another. "In the elevator of one
+of the hotels in Naples I found the elevator boy studying
+an English spelling book. He said, 'I am going to
+America as soon as I have money enough; there is a
+chance for me to become something if I can get to New
+York.' A cab driver asked me if I knew his cousin in
+Chicago. 'My cousin,' said he, 'saved enough money
+to buy a third-class passage to New York. That was
+just three years ago. Now he is sending money home to
+his friends to take them over. He must be doing well.
+We never have any money to give away.' Money to
+spare for his friends! That told the cabman the story
+of a golden land."</p>
+
+<p>On Tuesday, as we sailed northward, we passed the
+island of Elba, on which the banished Napoleon remained
+ten months after his abdication. We endeavored
+to recall the history of the events that preceded
+the great Emperor's first downfall; the campaign in
+Russia, the burning of Moscow, the winter retreat, the
+depletion of the grand army by frost and hunger. But
+when the little island of Monte Cristo came in sight,<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_381" id="Page_381">[Pg 381]</a></span>
+memory brought to mind pleasanter recollections,&mdash;Dumas'
+story of the "The Count of Monte Cristo," so
+wonderful in our youthful days, Edmond Dantes'
+escape from the dungeon, the cave on the island, and the
+fabulous wealth concealed therein.</p>
+
+<p>On the day of arrival at Nice, hundreds of owners of
+automobiles from all parts of Europe were assembled
+in that city for trials of speed; the morning races had
+taken place and the dust-covered racers were just coming
+in from their fast runs. On the way to the hotel we
+saw an automobile run over one man and knock another
+down. An excited French woman who was rolled over
+in the dust but not injured followed the offending car
+to the garage with tongue, hands, and arms all in rapid
+motion. She was giving the chauffeur a tongue-lashing
+and calling his attention to her soiled clothing. Her
+tirade prompted the chauffeur to draw some coins from
+his pocket and place them in her hand, and then her hurt
+feelings apparently were quickly relieved.</p>
+
+<p>Nice has a delightful climate. It is protected from
+the cold winds of the north by hills and mountains
+and fanned by the mild breezes of the sea. Royalty,
+beauty, and wealth make their abode in this favorite
+resort on the shore of the Mediterranean during the
+winter season, and English lords, French counts, Russian
+princes, German barons, and American millionaires sojourn
+at the magnificent hotels or reside in beautiful
+villas.</p>
+
+<p>The season of gaiety was just closing when we arrived
+and the hotels were not crowded, yet there was much
+to see. It was a pleasure to drive on the clean, well-<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_382" id="Page_382">[Pg 382]</a></span>paved
+avenues, which are shaded by great trees and
+lined with handsome homes and white stone hotels,
+passing lawns and gardens filled with palms, roses,
+choice flowers, and blooming vines. It was interesting
+to stroll along the sea front for two or three miles on a
+stone pavement fifty feet wide, the popular promenade
+of the city, with the waves of the blue sea rolling almost
+to your feet on one side and the wide avenue filled
+with handsome teams and motor-cars of every description
+on the other. It was entertaining to secure a
+chair in the park during the afternoon concert,
+and, comfortably seated, listen to the military band,
+admire the gowns of the French women, and note the
+variety of uniforms worn by the French officers. Those
+afternoons in the park were very restful for there was no
+hurry nor confusion nor crying of wares for sale, and the
+balmy sea breeze had a soothing effect on the nerves.</p>
+
+<p>The weather was delightful and the air pure and clear
+when, on the morning of April fourth, a party of sixteen
+filled the seats of a four-horse drag for a drive from
+Nice to Mentone over the famous Corniche road, a round
+trip of over forty miles, noted as one of the finest drives
+in Europe. We had decided to go to Mentone over the
+Upper Corniche road, which winds among the mountains,
+and return by the Lower Corniche road, which
+follows the shores of the sea.</p>
+
+<p>Our driver snapped his long-lashed whip and the
+horses started off as gaily as if they shared our exuberant
+spirits.</p>
+
+<p>"That is the river Paillon," said the driver, pointing
+to a diminutive stream in the midst of a wide stony bed.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_384" id="Page_384">[Pg 384]</a></span>
+"The river has very little water in it now, but when the
+snow melts in the mountains it becomes a torrent."</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus390a.jpg" width="500" height="139" alt="I. WINDS AMONG THE MOUNTAINS." title="I. WINDS AMONG THE MOUNTAINS." />
+<span class="caption">I. WINDS AMONG THE MOUNTAINS.</span>
+</div>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus390b.jpg" width="500" height="140" alt="II. FOLLOWS THE SHORE OF THE SEA." title="II. FOLLOWS THE SHORE OF THE SEA." />
+<span class="caption">II. FOLLOWS THE SHORE OF THE SEA.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>The little stream had a peaceful look. Many washer-women
+were busily at work along its banks, many clothes
+lines were filled with drying garments, and sheets were
+bleaching on the stones. A number of red objects in
+the distance proved, as we drew nearer, to be a company
+of red-trousered French soldiers washing their linen in
+the stream. Another company in red trousers and
+white shirts marched by us, carrying their bundles to
+the river. After leaving the river we passed an immense
+public wash trough where forty women were washing
+clothes and apparently having a social time. There was
+room at the trough for double that number.</p>
+
+<p>The macadamized road winding up the mountain side
+in easy grades, supported at many places by walls of
+substantial masonry, was in perfect condition. Occasionally
+as our team moved slowly upward we heard
+the "honk, honk" of a horn and a racing automobile
+making a time record flew swiftly by and was soon out
+of sight, or rushing down grade around sharp curves
+at tremendous speed toward us caused some hearts in
+our coach to palpitate in anxiety until the racer had
+safely passed.</p>
+
+<p>"At this spot a Russian Count and his friend were
+killed on the morning of the races," said our driver as
+we rounded one particularly sharp curve. "The count,
+expecting to be a winner in the race, was speeding his
+motor-car at the rate of fifty miles an hour, when it
+swerved against the rocks and he and his friend were
+hurled over the wall and crushed to death."<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_385" id="Page_385">[Pg 385]</a></span></p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus392.jpg" width="500" height="296" alt="WE LUNCHED IN MENTONE." title="WE LUNCHED IN MENTONE." />
+<span class="caption">WE LUNCHED IN MENTONE.</span>
+</div><p>
+<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_386" id="Page_386">[Pg 386]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>As we ascended the mountains we saw on the slopes
+below us orchards of gray olive trees, in the valleys
+orchards of dark green orange and lemon trees filled
+with yellow fruit, clean looking white or yellow or pink
+houses with red tile roofs dotting the landscape, and the
+white stone Hotel Regina, beautiful for situation, standing
+prominent on a summit. The rocks in the channel
+of the Paillon appeared to be a bed of pebbles. In the
+distance, to the south, could be seen the buildings of the
+city we had left and the glistening waters of the sea
+beyond; on the north, wooded hills and terraced mountains;
+and far away, the snow covered summits of the
+Alps. While we gazed at one of these scenes of beauty,
+the soft mellow tones of a convent bell came pleasingly
+to our ears.</p>
+
+<p>"Why is it the bells ring so sweetly here?" inquired
+one of the occupants of our coach. "It must have been
+melodious notes like these that pleased the ear of the
+poet Moore."</p>
+
+<p>At each turn of the road our point of view changed
+and the panorama unrolled before us. We looked down
+upon a series of beautiful pictures. The Mediterranean
+lay two thousand feet below us, its surface reflecting
+every shade of blue and green, its coast a succession of
+inlets, bays, promontories, and peninsulas. White
+roads winding among the shrubbery on the peninsulas
+looked like white ribbons on a green background, the
+red tiled houses like little toys, and the harbor of Ville
+Franche like a pond on which floated tiny boats that
+a child might play with.</p>
+
+<p>"What a picturesque town!" exclaimed a tourist.<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_387" id="Page_387">[Pg 387]</a></span></p>
+
+<p>"That is the city of Eze. It is a very old city," said
+the driver.</p>
+
+<p>"Perched among the mountains, with its odd castle
+on a detached hill top," said one of the tourists "it reminds
+me of a painting by one of the old masters.
+Cimabue, I think, or Perugino. I cannot remember
+which. I am constantly regretting while traveling
+abroad that we are not more proficient in history and art.
+While the professor and the artist were with the party
+we could turn to them for information. But now we
+must depend upon ourselves."</p>
+
+<p>"Not necessarily," replied another, "for we have
+Baedeker and the guides; and there are the drivers,
+too, to call upon when they can understand our English
+or we can understand their French."</p>
+
+<p>For some distance beyond Eze the road followed the
+side of rugged limestone cliffs surmounted by fortifications
+and signal stations. At the old, queer-looking
+town of La Turbie, while the horses rested for an hour,
+we selected postal cards and took kodak views. Soon
+after leaving La Turbie, while descending the mountain,
+we looked down upon the little principality of Monaco,
+its capital, the city of Monaco, the palace of the Prince
+built upon a rocky promontory, and the white buildings
+of Monte Carlo.</p>
+
+<p>Mentone is a popular winter resort on the Mediterranean
+with handsome houses and flower-filled gardens.
+Vineyards and groves of orange, lemon, and fig trees,
+cover the hillsides surrounding the city. We lunched in
+Mentone, and were entertained under the palm trees
+of the hotel garden by a band of Italian musicians, one<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_388" id="Page_388">[Pg 388]</a></span>
+of whom, an amusing character actor as well as singer,
+responded cheerfully to our requests for special selections
+and solos.</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus395.jpg" width="500" height="408" alt="THROUGH THE PARK THAT SURROUNDS THE CASINO." title="THROUGH THE PARK THAT SURROUNDS THE CASINO." />
+<span class="caption">THROUGH THE PARK THAT SURROUNDS THE CASINO.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>Our return from Mentone to Nice was through a succession
+of towns and villages. Along this coast road
+are many white hotels, comfortable-looking villas, and
+trimly kept lawns. In the gardens there were century
+plants, orange, lemon, and palm trees, and rose bushes
+of great size covered with bloom. On the tops of the
+garden walls, plants of various kinds were growing.
+Some of the walls were covered with long clusters of<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_389" id="Page_389">[Pg 389]</a></span>
+pink geraniums, some gracefully festooned with masses
+of overhanging heliotrope, and others draped with
+trailing vines aglow with scarlet bloom. The exuberant
+growth and bloom of these flowers attracted much
+attention and drew forth exclamations of delight.</p>
+
+<p>"Did you ever see geraniums and heliotropes growing
+in such luxuriance?" asked one of the ladies.</p>
+
+<p>"Only in my own state," replied a Californian.
+"There the plants grow to immense size and bloom in
+profusion."</p>
+
+<p>"Do not forget charming Funchal," said another.
+"Remember that there we saw geraniums and fuschias
+of wonderful size, and vines of pink bouguainvillia that
+covered the mountain-side cottages."</p>
+
+<p>At Monte Carlo, as we drove through the park that
+surrounds the white marble gambling palace, we admired
+the magnificent parterres of flowers, the beds of
+pansies being especially beautiful in variety of color and
+size of the flowers. On the piazza of the Café de Paris,
+where a band was playing, we had afternoon tea and
+from there watched the throng of visitors who were
+moving along the palm-lined paths or were ascending
+or descending the marble steps of the Casino.</p>
+
+<p>"Is there a charge for admittance?" we inquired of the
+guard at the entrance of the white palace.</p>
+
+<p>"No," he replied. "Present your visiting card at the
+desk of the Secretary in the corridor. He will approve.
+Then, after you have registered your name, a card of
+admission will be given you."</p>
+
+<p>In the decorated rooms where the games of chance
+were in operation, many handsomely gowned women and<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_390" id="Page_390">[Pg 390]</a></span>
+well-dressed men were moving from place to place conversing
+in quiet tones, but crowds were centered around
+the roulette tables, where the chairs were all occupied
+and many people were standing. We joined the throng
+around one of these and saw that the table was divided
+into numbered spaces, some colored red and some black.
+In the centre of the table was a little wheel with spaces
+to correspond in number and color to those on the table.
+The stakes were silver five franc pieces, one or more.
+No other coins nor bills were permitted on the table.</p>
+
+<p>"I will try it," said one of our party after watching
+the game awhile. "I will place a five franc on number
+seven black."</p>
+
+<p>The table was dotted with silver coins. The croupier
+touched a spring that sent a small ball spinning around
+the wheel. The ball stopped in space three red.</p>
+
+<p>"Three red wins," announced the croupier.</p>
+
+<p>A woman with gray hair and large diamonds in her
+ears picked up her winnings and added them to the
+stack of silver on the table in front of her, and the
+croupiers with wooden rakes raked in scores of coins
+that had been laid on losing numbers.</p>
+
+<p>At some of the tables in the magnificent apartments
+of the Casino the stakes were higher, twenty franc gold
+pieces being used, and at these tables, eager players,
+infatuated with the game, hazarded handfuls of gold on
+the turn of the wheel.</p>
+
+<p>"The chances to win or lose appear to be about even,"
+said the Californian. "They must, however, be in
+favor of the Casino; for the company requires a large
+income to meet the enormous expenses incurred in<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_392" id="Page_392">[Pg 392]</a></span>
+keeping up this handsome palace and grounds with
+thousands of employees, croupiers, guards, gardeners,
+and care-takers. In addition, the company pays a
+heavy tax to the Prince of Monaco, and yet is said to
+have large profit."</p>
+
+<div class="figcenter" style="width: 500px;">
+<img class="bbox" src="images/illus398.jpg" width="500" height="297" alt="THE POPULAR PROMENADE OF THE CITY." title="THE POPULAR PROMENADE OF THE CITY." />
+<span class="caption">THE POPULAR PROMENADE OF THE CITY.</span>
+</div>
+
+<p>When our coach arrived at the hotel in Nice some one
+remarked: "You appear to be enthusiastic over your
+drive." We were; there was no doubt about it, and
+we might well have added that we were just as well
+pleased with the whole trip to the Orient. We started
+with great expectations and we were not disappointed.</p>
+
+<p>At Nice, when the Moltke sailed for New York, we
+parted with feelings of regret from many pleasant friends
+and companions whose acquaintance we had made during
+the trip, and with whom we had been agreeably
+associated on sea and on land.</p>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+<div class="tranotes">
+<span class="smcap">Transcriber's Note:</span><br /><br />
+Minor spelling and typographical errors have been corrected without
+note. Some pages have two illustrations with captions for both underneath. These
+have been split into two separate captioned illustrations. The moving of some
+illustrations for smoother reading has caused some page numbers to be
+missed.<br /><br />
+Noteworthy corrections:<br />
+Pausanius => Pausanias (p. 110)<br />
+re-remarked => remarked (p. 254)<br />
+cavaran => caravan (p. 281)<br />
+Mahmond => Mahmoud (p. 338)<br />
+symphathize => sympathize (p. 380)<br />
+millionaries => millionaires (p. 381)<br />
+exlaimed => exclaimed (p. 386)<br />
+<br /><br />
+</div>
+
+<hr style="width: 65%;" />
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+<pre>
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's A Trip to the Orient, by Robert Urie Jacob
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@@ -0,0 +1,7729 @@
+The Project Gutenberg EBook of A Trip to the Orient, by Robert Urie Jacob
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: A Trip to the Orient
+       The Story of a Mediterranean Cruise
+
+Author: Robert Urie Jacob
+
+Release Date: March 12, 2010 [EBook #31609]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK A TRIP TO THE ORIENT ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Juliet Sutherland, Peter Vickers and the Online
+Distributed Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+[Illustration: WE ENTERED THROUGH THE GATE OF JUSTICE.]
+
+
+
+
+A TRIP TO THE ORIENT
+
+
+The Story of a
+Mediterranean
+Cruise
+
+
+BY
+ROBERT URIE JACOB
+
+
+[Illustration]
+
+ILLUSTRATED
+
+
+THE JOHN C. WINSTON CO.
+PHILADELPHIA
+
+
+
+
+
+Copyright 1907, by
+ROBERT URIE JACOB.
+
+
+Half-tones made by
+The Photo-Chromotype Engraving Co.
+Philadelphia, Pa.
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE.
+
+
+"A Trip to the Orient, the Story of a Mediterranean Cruise," by Robert
+Urie Jacob, has been written at the request of fellow-travelers who did
+not have time to take notes by the way.
+
+One said, "Do not write a guide book nor a love story, but a simple
+narrative that will recall the incidents and delightful experiences of
+the tour." Following these suggestions, but with many misgivings, the
+author has undertaken and completed the work, assisted in the editing
+and proof-reading by Miss Ruth Collins, of the Drexel Institute, and by
+Miss Anna C. Kauffman.
+
+An interesting feature of the book is the large number of illustrations
+made from artistic photographs, all of which have been kindly
+contributed by amateur photographers. It contains nearly two hundred
+illustrations of views or incidents in Funchal, Granada, Algiers, Malta,
+Athens, Constantinople, Jerusalem, Cairo, Luxor, Naples, and Nice,
+reproduced from photographs taken by Mr. L. O. Smith, Rev. G. B.
+Burnwood, Mr. Charles Louis Sicarde, Mr. Franklin D. Edmunds, Mr.
+Roberts LeBoutellier, Mrs. Charles S. Crosman, Miss M. Florence
+Pannebaker, Mr. Walter F. Price, Mr. S. L. Schumo, Mr. George C.
+Darling, Mr. Howard E. Pepper, Mr. John W. Converse, Mr. C. Edwin Webb,
+and Mr. Edwin Alban Bailey.
+
+The story was intended specially for voyagers who have visited the same
+places, but it may be almost equally interesting to those who are
+planning a similar trip. And those who must stay at home may in these
+pages be able to look through another's eyes at the places described.
+
+If the book should in any slight way deepen the pleasant memories of
+those who have made the trip, or if it should give pleasure to those who
+must picture those scenes only in their imagination, the author will
+feel that his effort has not been in vain.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS.
+
+
+  CHAPTER.                                  PAGE.
+
+     I. ON THE OCEAN                            1
+
+    II. FUNCHAL                                10
+
+   III. GIBRALTAR                              24
+
+    IV. GRANADA AND THE ALHAMBRA               38
+
+     V. THE CITY OF ALGIERS                    60
+
+    VI. THE ISLAND OF MALTA                    82
+
+   VII. ATHENS AND THE ACROPOLIS               97
+
+  VIII. CONSTANTINOPLE AND SANTA SOPHIA       128
+
+    IX. THE SELAMLIK AND THE TREASURY         154
+
+     X. FROM THE BOSPORUS TO PALESTINE        179
+
+    XI. JERUSALEM                             199
+
+   XII. THE CHURCH OF THE HOLY SEPULCHRE      227
+
+  XIII. CAIRO AND THE PYRAMIDS                257
+
+   XIV. LUXOR AND KARNAK                      296
+
+    XV. ON THE NILE                           327
+
+   XVI. NAPLES AND POMPEII                    353
+
+  XVII. NICE AND MENTONE                      378
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+ON THE OCEAN.
+
+
+"Have you decided to go?" inquired my friend. Before us on the table lay
+an illustrated booklet containing the prospectus of a cruise to the
+Mediterranean. Its contents had been under consideration for some days.
+
+"Yes," I answered, "I will write to-day to secure state room
+accommodations for our party. Nevertheless I am not quite sure that it
+is wise to take the trip."
+
+"Why?"
+
+"For two reasons. First, are seventy days long enough to make a cruise
+of nearly fourteen thousand miles and visit so many places? Second, with
+five hundred passengers will there not be a crowd?"
+
+"Well, those doubts never troubled me. Seventy days is all that can be
+spared from my business, and much may be seen in that time. As to the
+number of passengers, every steamer carries its full complement. At any
+rate, you are going, so think no more of your doubts. You will probably
+forget that you had any."
+
+So it was that at seven o'clock on the morning of the fifth of February,
+when the steamship Moltke left her dock at New York, we stood among the
+passengers lined along her rail. The hawsers had been cast off, whistles
+were blowing, and tugs were puffing in their efforts to push and pull
+the huge vessel into the stream.
+
+At that early hour of a wintry day there was no crowd filling the pier,
+no sea of faces looking upward, no waving of handkerchiefs and flags,
+the usual sight when a great liner departs. The wharf, cheerless and
+dismal, appeared to be almost deserted. Its only occupants were a few
+scattered onlookers shivering in the cold, and the officials and
+employees whose duties required their presence. But on the Moltke, in
+spite of the chill air and the gray morning, all were animated and
+eager. The band played the "Belle of New York" while the ship was being
+warped into the stream, and the "American Patrol" while it was steaming
+down the river. The tourists, alert and expectant, viewed the panorama
+of the city as the tall buildings were brought into strong relief
+against the brightening sky, saw Liberty's cap reflect the rays of the
+rising sun, then watched the incoming steamers, and the forts and
+lighthouses that seemed to approach and pass. Just outside of Sandy Hook
+our pilot with a satchel of letters descended the rope ladder to the
+waiting tug, and soon afterwards the low-lying shores became dimmer and
+dimmer until they disappeared from view.
+
+The farewells had been exchanged on the previous day, when the promenade
+decks and saloons of the steamer were thronged with passengers, friends,
+and curious visitors, and the after-deck was encumbered with piles of
+baggage. Then, the tables in the main saloon were filled with boxes of
+flowers, baskets of fruit, packages of confectionery, and bundles of
+steamer letters marked to be opened on certain days after sailing.
+
+Before the departure we had met the deck steward and with his
+assistance had located our steamer chairs; for in the places then
+selected the chairs were to remain throughout the long cruise. We had
+also interviewed the chief steward, had obtained from him a passenger
+list, and had arranged that our party should be seated together at one
+of the side tables in the dining saloon.
+
+[Illustration: AT THE HOUR OF AFTERNOON TEA.]
+
+The passenger list contained four hundred and fifty-three names. Among
+these were thirteen preceded by the title Reverend, thirteen by Doctor,
+and a number by military or other titles of honor. Every state in the
+Union and several provinces of Canada had representatives on the list.
+
+During the first three days' sailing a storm, which had been predicted
+as approaching from the west when we left New York, followed but did not
+overtake us. We could not, however, remain on deck as long as desired,
+for the wind was chilly and the ocean rough. But each morning, laden
+with heavy wraps and rugs, we sought our steamer chairs. Then, settled
+comfortably under the wraps and rugs carefully tucked around us by the
+attentive steward, we defied the cold for an hour or two and inhaled the
+invigorating air.
+
+As the vessel made her way southward, the temperature moderated and the
+sea became smooth. By the time the stormy weather had passed, the
+tourists, accustomed to ship motion and ship life, spent most of their
+time upon the decks. Then, to increase sociability and make the time
+pass pleasantly, self-appointed committees met and laid plans for card
+parties, lectures, concerts, and dances.
+
+On the fifth night out the southern side of the promenade deck was
+curtained with awnings, cleared of chairs, decorated with flags and
+Chinese lanterns, and brilliantly illuminated with clusters of electric
+lights, for an impromptu dance. Music was furnished by the band, and
+Father Neptune kindly kept his waves in subjection, although an
+occasional roll caused some unsteadiness in the movements of the
+waltzers.
+
+By that time we knew many of our fellow-voyagers. For, as we had similar
+plans, a common destination, and the same pleasures in anticipation, we
+readily made friendships. We chatted around the table during the
+luncheon and dinner hours, took a hand in euchre with men in the smoking
+room, or a place at whist with the ladies in the music room, and
+exchanged pleasantries and experiences with our neighbors while
+occupying the steamer chairs. Friendships grew rapidly under these
+favorable conditions. Sometimes chats with new acquaintances which began
+in a mirthful way changed to talks of a serious kind as some spoken word
+recalled home and friends left behind, and conversations when prolonged
+became almost confidential in their character.
+
+One afternoon while we were sipping the tea which had been served, a
+lady who occupied a chair next ours, said:--"I enjoy so much my hours in
+the gymnasium. Each morning I take a gallop on the electric horse and
+get my blood into circulation. The first day I felt rather timid in the
+saddle when the custodian asked, 'Fast or slow?' so I said, 'Start
+slow,' but I quickly had him increase the speed, for I'm used to
+horseback riding."
+
+"We're from Texas, you know," spoke up a young woman sitting close by.
+
+"You should practice riding on the electric camel in preparation for our
+trip into Egypt," I suggested.
+
+"We have; we've tried all the arm and foot movements and have been
+thumped on the back, and on the chest, and even on our heads," responded
+the young woman. "But I wished for a rowing machine. Rowing is my
+favorite exercise."
+
+"Before we left home we all had many misgivings about this trip,"
+remarked the elder sister. "We knew how large these steamships really
+are, but yet we had visions of many possible discomforts during so long
+a journey. We disliked tours in sleeping cars and couldn't realize the
+difference between traveling in cars and in ships. But our stateroom
+here is very cozy with the wardrobes and the racks for our books and our
+pictures."
+
+"And it seems homelike, too," added the other.
+
+The life on shipboard was to many a novel experience. In the mornings we
+were roused from our slumbers by the notes of a bugle. The first day
+when the reveille sounded I looked at my watch. It was a quarter to
+eight. "Must I get up?" I thought. Then remembering that the breakfast
+hour was from eight to ten, I closed my eyes. But soon there came a
+gentle tapping at the door. "Who's there?" I asked. "Your bath is ready,
+sir." The words were English but the accents were plainly German. That
+call was more imperative than the bugler's, for I might miss my
+invigorating salt water dip if I did not quickly respond. After a
+breakfast of fruit, cereals, chops, and coffee we went to the deck for a
+tramp. "Ten rounds of the promenade deck make a mile," said my
+room-mate consulting his pedometer. Then we strolled to the library for
+books, but the books lay unread in our laps when we were seated in our
+steamer chairs; for how could our minds be fixed on the story when the
+real life before us was more interesting? The Professor who was to
+lecture during the trip stepped by with rapid tread, nodding as he
+passed. The minister from Iowa who was to preach on the Sabbath stopped
+to exchange greetings, a friend dropped into a vacant chair for a talk.
+Then the music stands were set up and the band assembled around them and
+for an hour we listened to selections from Wagner and Bach, varied with
+the martial strains of Sousa or the melodies of Foster. The stewards
+brought out a table, filled it with dishes, and served bouillon and
+biscuit, while near by a kodak carrier was snapping a picture.
+
+[Illustration: I. COMFORTABLY SEATED WITH A BOOK.]
+
+[Illustration: II. THE BAND WAS PLAYING CARMEN.]
+
+On the ship there were many places of interest. When in need of exercise
+we visited the gymnasium on the upper deck, and when desirous of a
+change in cooking we resorted to the grill room where the white clad
+cook broiled chops in our sight over a bright fire. Impelled by
+curiosity, we explored the vacant steerage, and with the chief engineer
+descended the iron ladder to the depths below to investigate the
+mysteries of the engine and fire rooms. Sometimes from the breezy
+fore-deck we scanned the horizon for the ships that rarely appeared, and
+sometimes sought a snug corner aft and watched the swift-winged gulls,
+the quivering log line, the smoke clouds and their shadows, or the
+widening streak of water disturbed by the revolving screw.
+
+"How rapidly the week has passed," said a friend on the evening of the
+twelfth of February. "Listen! One, two, three, four," as the ship's bell
+rang out four strokes. "Four bells, that's six o'clock. We have half an
+hour to dress for dinner."
+
+When we entered the brilliantly illuminated dining saloon that evening a
+bust of Lincoln was on the platform, and the room was decorated with the
+American colors. Some one had remembered Lincoln's birthday, though many
+of the passengers had forgotten the date. A picture of Lincoln with the
+inscription, "In commemoration of President Abraham Lincoln's birthday,"
+was engraved on the covers of the souvenir menus. The dinner was an
+unusually good one, and the seven selections rendered by the orchestra
+during the courses were appropriate for the day.
+
+After dinner a man who had been personally acquainted with the martyred
+President delivered an interesting memorial address. His final words had
+just been said when an announcement was made which caused a thrill of
+expectancy and sent us hurriedly to the deck: "Land is in sight!"
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+FUNCHAL.
+
+
+"That is the island of Madeira," said the captain, pointing to a dark
+mass dimly seen against the horizon. "We are now nearly twenty-eight
+hundred miles southeast of New York."
+
+We had been sailing for seven days with only a vast expanse of ocean in
+view, and so we longed for a sight of land and eagerly looked forward to
+the arrival at our first port. As we approached the island the form of a
+mountain became clear in the star-light; then the twinkling of lights at
+its base revealed the location of a city. When within half a mile of the
+shore, the water in the harbor became too shallow for large vessels, so
+the screw propeller of the Moltke ceased revolving and the ship came to
+anchor.
+
+"May we go ashore to-night?" many asked.
+
+"Certainly, there is no objection," replied the captain.
+
+A number of the passengers, eager to see the attractions of the place,
+and too impatient to wait until morning, were rowed across the dark
+water to the pier. In the city, Funchal, we found that at so late an
+hour the main attractions were gambling places, dance halls, and
+lotteries, the owners of which were greedy for American money. The main
+Casino, in the midst of a beautiful garden, was brilliantly illuminated
+and its halls were filled with well dressed people. Some of the party
+who had placed their silver on the tables of chance showed on their
+return to the steamer handfuls of coins that fortune had brought them;
+others who had made similar experiments were silent as to the results.
+
+[Illustration: SUNLIGHT SHONE ON THE WHITE WALLS OF FUNCHAL.]
+
+"We should have read up the Madeiras before leaving home," said one of
+the tourists at our early breakfast the morning after our arrival, "but
+we were too busy then with other things. While you were ashore last
+night I found in the library an old English book of travel that gave
+some information about the islands."
+
+[Illustration: IT IS NOT RAPID TRANSIT.]
+
+"Share it with us while the stewards are bringing the coffee, won't
+you?"
+
+[Illustration: ONLY THE BOYS STOPPED THEIR PLAY TO GAZE.]
+
+"I made very few notes," she replied. "As we are to be in Funchal but
+one day, I skipped the statistics of population, hotels, exports, and
+history. But here are some facts just as I jotted them down:
+
+"'The Madeira Islands, about six hundred miles west of Gibraltar, were
+settled by the Portuguese and are owned by Portugal.
+
+"'The principal and only town large enough to be called a city is
+Funchal, situated on the southern side of Madeira on the slope of a
+hill.
+
+"'The city has an equable climate. Mild sunshine, gentle ocean breezes,
+and protection from harsh winds by mountains, give to Funchal throughout
+the whole year the temperature of England in the month of May.
+
+"'The island is very mountainous, gashed with many deep gorges which
+extend in from the sea. The streets in the city are paved, but the roads
+in the country are impassable for wagons. Merchandise is carried on pack
+mules or in ox-drags. Horses are rarely seen and carriages are few.
+Quaint vehicles are used in their stead for the conveyance of
+passengers.'
+
+"How odd these vehicles are we shall find out when we land. We shall
+have a busy day. I am eager to start."
+
+It was yet early when we ascended the deck, but the sun was shining
+brightly. Funchal appeared like a beautiful picture. Overhead was the
+azure sky of a summer day; before us, stirred by a gentle breeze,
+glistened in blue and silver the waters of the harbor; on the curving
+shore, tier above tier, reflecting the sunshine, rose the white and
+yellow stone buildings of the city surmounted by roofs of red tiling;
+above the city, white cottages amidst a dense foliage of green shrubbery
+dotted the steep hillsides, and beyond, but seeming very near, higher
+mountains formed a dark and appropriate background.
+
+[Illustration: THE WOMEN WERE WASHING CLOTHES.]
+
+"The steam tenders are ready to carry you to the shore," announced one
+of the officials, interrupting our survey of the picture.
+
+We descended the long ladder of fifty steps from the deck of the steamer
+to the bobbing barge in the water below, and were soon landed on the
+stone steps of the breakwater, which, extending out to a picturesque
+crag, protects and partially encloses the harbor. There, in place of
+cabs, a hundred low sleds with canopy tops and cushioned seats were in
+readiness to convey us on a sight-seeing excursion through the city.
+This ride in ox-drags was a novel experience. Each sled was dragged by
+two bullocks, driven without reins by loud-voiced natives who, with
+frequent yells and prodding sticks, urged on their teams. The drivers
+carried bunches of greasy rags which they occasionally threw underneath
+the sled-runners as a lubricant to diminish the friction of their
+movement over the stone-paved streets.
+
+[Illustration: IN THE SLED READY TO START.]
+
+The sights in the city were strange. The shops on the narrow streets
+were plain and unattractive, and the signs unintelligible. The windows
+of the lower floors of the dwellings were grated with iron bars like a
+prison. Beneath a bridge over a walled ravine that kept a rushing stream
+within bounds in the rainy season, women washed clothes and spread them
+on rocks to dry. In the public square the women carrying water from the
+fountain or chatting on the sidewalks appeared to have little curiosity
+regarding the visitors in their city, and the men, lounging on the steps
+of the fountain, cast but careless glances in our direction; only the
+boys stopped their play to gaze awhile at the passing strangers.
+
+"This plodding team seems fitting in such a peculiar place," remarked
+one of the quartet in our sled. "Although it is not rapid transit, it is
+comfortable. But look, there is a more luxurious mode of traveling." As
+he spoke he pointed to two Portuguese bearing suspended on a pole a
+handsome hammock in which a lady reclined languidly.
+
+At the foot of the mountain we changed from the slowly moving sleds to
+the car of a cog-wheel railway, which carried us up the steep incline.
+The speed of the car was not much greater than that of the ox-team. As
+we ascended, scenes of beauty opened around us. Cottages built on
+terraces were covered with blooming bouguain-villea or climbing roses.
+Patches of cultivated land were filled with sugar cane, banana plants,
+and orange trees. Palms and cacti appeared in many varieties. Flowers
+bloomed on every side. Geraniums, fuschias, and heliotropes were of
+enormous size. Camelias, lilies, and nasturtiums grew in profusion.
+Children from the suburban cottages ran alongside the moving car,
+merrily casting roses, heliotropes, geraniums, and camelias through the
+open windows into our laps, and the tourists, pleased with the floral
+offerings, in return tossed pennies to the running children.
+
+When we alighted from the car, young peddlers, some bright-faced and
+clean, others ugly and dirty, offered flowers and trinkets for sale and
+beggars asked for money. But our pennies were exhausted and we were glad
+that peddlers and paupers were not permitted to follow us into the hotel
+grounds.
+
+[Illustration: ON THE PIER WE BOUGHT FLOWERS.]
+
+"Here you may lunch," said the guide, as we entered a hotel on the
+mountain, "and get pure Madeira wine. The wine which is made in this
+island was at one time its most noted production; but some thirty years
+ago insects and disease so infested the vines that many vineyards were
+destroyed and the quantity of wine now made is not so large as in former
+years."
+
+After having luncheon and tasting the well known wine in its purity on a
+broad piazza overlooking a beautiful tropical garden, we wandered
+through an interesting old church and convent near by, and then strolled
+around a mountain pathway from which, as the guide said, "views most
+grand" might be seen. As we advanced on our way we looked down from the
+height upon many continually changing scenes of picturesque beauty. Now
+there appeared a vista through a wooded ravine of striking grandeur, now
+a view of a rocky gorge penetrating from the ocean, and again a wide
+panorama of city, harbor, and ocean.
+
+[Illustration: THE SLIDE IS TWO MILES IN LENGTH.]
+
+Our return to the city was in a conveyance indeed unique. The descent of
+the mountain in sleds from the summit to the city below, through narrow
+lanes paved with small stones worn and slippery from years of service,
+was an experience long to be remembered. Our sled, without any means of
+propulsion but our own weight, glided rapidly down the hill over the
+smooth surface of the pavement like a toboggan on an icy slide. It was
+controlled by two men, who, sometimes running alongside, sometimes
+clinging to the runners, regulated the speed and guided the sled around
+corners by means of ropes attached to its sides.
+
+"That was a wild and exciting ride," exclaimed one of the ladies who had
+been tightly holding to her seat during the descent. "What is the
+distance from the summit?"
+
+"The slide is about two miles in length, lady," replied one of the
+conductors.
+
+"Don't take our picture now with our hair flying wildly," exclaimed an
+occupant of a sled just arriving, to a friend with a camera.
+
+"Your request comes too late," he answered. "I have pressed the button."
+
+"I hope it will not be a good one," she wished, but it was.
+
+When we returned to the Moltke many row-boats were clustered around the
+vessel. Some of these had brought visitors who desired to inspect the
+ship. Some contained Portuguese merchants, who, with cargoes of
+embroidery, wicker chairs, straw goods, fruits, photographs, and curios,
+had been patiently awaiting our return. When they were permitted to come
+on board they displayed their wares upon the deck and made many sales.
+Other small craft contained half-naked boys who shouted to us to test
+their skill as divers by throwing pennies into the clear but deep
+emerald water, claiming that they could secure the money before it
+reached the bottom of the bay. We complied with the boys' request and
+exhausted the ship's supply of pennies in putting their dexterity to the
+proof. When the money was thrown into the sea the young experts, diving
+like beavers and successful in securing the money, rose to the surface
+and clambered into the boats holding the coins in their mouths. One
+youth more daring than the others mounted to the upper deck of our
+steamer and offered, if a shilling instead of a penny was thrown into
+the water, to plunge from his high perch to the sea fifty feet below and
+get the silver. And he won much applause by successfully accomplishing
+the feat.
+
+[Illustration: THE TUG CARRIED US TO THE MOLTKE.]
+
+Toward evening the whistle of the steamer sounded warning notes. The
+time for sailing was at hand. The tourists who had been loitering on the
+shore hastened to return. The peddlers on the deck reluctantly packed
+their unsold wares and with their bundles descended the ship's ladder.
+The visitors, after courteously bidding adieu to the officials who had
+been entertaining them, took their departure. But the trained swimmers
+whose antics in the water were giving so much amusement tarried until
+ordered away. Then while our band played a farewell air, Sousa's "Hands
+Across the Sea," the Moltke slowly steamed out of the harbor.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+GIBRALTAR.
+
+
+"Is not this a German vessel?" asked a passenger of the first officer,
+as they stood conversing near the gymnasium on the upper deck the
+morning after we left Funchal.
+
+"Most surely it is," he replied, astonished at the question.
+
+"Then," pointing to the red ensign floating at the top of the foremast,
+"why does the Moltke fly the British colors?"
+
+"The British flag at our foremast indicates that this ship is bound for
+a port that belongs to Great Britain," explained the mate. "When we sail
+from Gibraltar the Union Jack will be replaced by the French tri-color
+to show that we are then on the way to a French port. The emblem on the
+fore-mast will be changed many times before we return to New York. But
+there," turning and pointing to the rear, "in its place at the stern is
+the German standard, the flag of our fatherland. There it will remain
+throughout the cruise. Above us, too, on the mast nearest the stern, the
+white pennant bearing the letters H. A. P. A. G., the insignia of the
+company that owns the Moltke, will constantly fly."
+
+The evening we sailed from Funchal each lady found beside her plate at
+the dinner table a bunch of violets, a memento from the flower gardens
+of Madeira; and on St. Valentine's Day each found there a package
+containing a pretty fan with the compliments of the Captain. At this
+dinner on the fourteenth of February much merriment prevailed during the
+dessert course, when favors containing caps and bonnets were
+distributed. Formality was dropped for the time. Each diner donned his
+headgear and the comical appearance of the wearers drew forth many
+pleasantries and much laughter.
+
+[Illustration: THE ILLUSTRATIONS REPRESENT A SOMBER MOUNTAIN.]
+
+The Captain, with a huge paper sun-bonnet on his head, rose to make a
+few remarks.
+
+"Silence! listen to what our old mother has to say!" cried a humorist.
+
+Amid laughter the captain began, but the laughter quickly ceased and his
+words were listened to with attention.
+
+"Fellow voyagers," said he in conclusion, "you will find on the bulletin
+board to-night some information and advice relative to your trip to
+Granada. For the past ten days you have been under my charge and I have
+looked after your welfare, but to-morrow you leave the vessel for two
+days. I wish you a pleasant excursion and a safe return to shelter under
+the care of your 'Old Mother.'"
+
+After the applause had subsided and a response had been made by one of
+the passengers, the orchestra played as a finale Liebe's "Auf
+Wiedersehen."
+
+Then we, after securing pencil and paper, hastened to join the crowd
+around the bulletin board to make notes of the directions for the trip
+into Spain. The notice read as follows:
+
+      "The Moltke will arrive at Gibraltar to-morrow, February
+      fifteenth, before daylight. Breakfast will be served at an early
+      hour and tenders will be alongside the steamer at seven o'clock to
+      take the tourists to the dock. There guides will be in waiting and
+      three hours will be spent in Gibraltar.
+
+      "At ten o'clock the tourists will be conveyed in the steam ferry
+      across the bay to the railroad station at Algeciras, from which
+      place the train will start for Granada. During the ferry passage a
+      box containing luncheon to be eaten on the train will be given to
+      each person.
+
+      "Dress warmly or take heavy wraps, as it is sometimes cold at
+      Granada at this season of the year.
+
+      "Call at the office at the news-stand on main deck for railroad
+      tickets and hotel assignments.
+
+      "The excursion party returning will leave Granada at four o'clock
+      Monday afternoon and arrive at the steamer about midnight. The
+      Moltke will then sail for Algiers."
+
+"Let us go to the office at once. The giving out of tickets may require
+considerable time," said my room-mate.
+
+Others were of the same opinion, it seemed, for many were ahead of us,
+but there was no delay, each applicant receiving promptly with his
+railroad ticket a card bearing the name of the hotel in Granada to which
+he was assigned. The managers of the tour, having arranged in advance
+for the required number of rooms at the principal hotels, were prepared
+to make the allotment before leaving the vessel, so avoiding confusion
+and delay on our arrival at our destination, and securing for us prompt
+attention at the hotels.
+
+Some of our friends who had already received their envelopes rejoiced to
+see on their cards "Hotel Washington Irving," a hotel which they knew
+from description to be beautifully situated on the heights near the
+Alhambra.
+
+"Hotel Victoria," I read on mine. I was disappointed at first, but on
+the following day I found that the central location of the "Victoria"
+gave opportunities to see much of the life of the city that might have
+been missed had the assignment been to the hotel in the suburbs.
+
+When we awoke the next morning the Moltke was lying quietly at anchor.
+We hastily dressed and ascended to the deck.
+
+Any one who has seen pictures of the huge rock that guards the entrance
+to the Mediterranean will recognize Gibraltar at sight if he approaches
+the rock from the right point of view. The illustrations, however,
+represent a somber mountain. The picture we saw showed white houses, red
+roofs, green trees, patches of lawn, groups of shrubbery, and plots of
+flowers, all contrasting with gray rocks; these with blue sky overhead,
+and white sails in the foreground gave life and color to the scene.
+
+As we gazed for some time from the vessel's deck at the strong fortress
+which has been held securely in the grasp of Great Britain for two
+hundred years, we thought of the many unsuccessful attempts that have
+been made during those two centuries to wrest it from British control;
+most noted of all, the long siege by the French and Spanish forces that
+continued for four years when Napoleon was supreme in France. What might
+have been the result, if England's grasp on the rock had been broken by
+Napoleon; or what the outcome, if Napoleon's fleet had been victorious
+in the conflict on the near-by Trafalgar Bay!
+
+[Illustration: THE ROCK HAD A PEACEFUL LOOK.]
+
+The rock had a peaceful look, but we knew that the cactus plants, which
+grew rank on the slope of the mountain, concealed powerful batteries,
+and that on the summit of the rock were mounted cannons of the largest
+calibre, which, if required, could hurl projectiles to the far side of
+the strait, a distance of twelve miles.
+
+On one of the highest points of the rock stands the Signal Tower. To
+this tower the officers of the Moltke had signaled the news of our
+arrival when the steamer entered the harbor, and before we had stirred
+from our berths, that information had been flashed over the cable to
+London and New York. On the following morning our friends at home read
+in the shipping news of their daily paper, the following item:
+
+"Arrived out; Feb. 15, Gibraltar, Moltke, from New York."
+
+As we started ashore on the lighters at the early hour appointed, we
+realized that we should have to take in a great deal in a very little
+while. We entered the city of Gibraltar by a tunnel-like entrance
+through walls of great thickness. The gateway was closely guarded by
+sentinels, who demanded the passes with which we had been furnished and
+who told us that these would be good only until sunset, for at the
+firing of the evening gun each day the gates are closed and the passes
+then are useless.
+
+[Illustration: WE DESCENDED A LONG LADDER OF FIFTY STEPS.]
+
+The markets near the gates, where many kinds of fruits, vegetables, and
+fish, unlike those seen in our home markets, were offered for sale,
+first attracted our attention. Here customers carrying oddly shaped
+baskets were bargaining with Moorish fishermen, Jewish peddlers, and
+Spanish marketmen. Each dealer, with gesticulations and loud voice,
+appeared to be asserting the superiority of his own wares. There was a
+confusion of tongues. Only the pigs tied to stakes squealed, and the
+chickens in wicker crates crowed, in strains familiar to our ears. The
+streets through which we proceeded were clean but narrow. The sidewalks
+were only wide enough for two people to walk side by side. The buildings
+were constructed of gray limestone similar to that of which the great
+Rock is composed.
+
+The presence of an army in this stronghold was indicated by the large
+number of soldiers we met. An officer whom we questioned kindly told us
+that the garrison consisted of about six thousand men, and that
+provisions sufficient to feed that number for five years in case of
+siege were at all times kept in storage. He advised us to visit the
+"Lower Galleries" of the fortifications on the heights and obtain the
+view from that point, and then to attend the afternoon band concert in
+the park. But our limited stay did not permit us to follow his
+suggestions.
+
+"In some respects," said the Major, "Gibraltar is rather a dull post for
+the officers stationed here; but we have a large library, billiard and
+club rooms, courts for tennis, and ground for polo. We have also many
+dances and riding parties, and occasionally attend the Spanish bull
+fights which take place in the large bull ring across the bay at
+Algeciras."
+
+[Illustration: WALLS OF GREAT THICKNESS AND A TUNNEL-LIKE ENTRANCE.]
+
+The great variety of uniforms worn by the soldiers of England was
+particularly noticeable. We saw squads in khaki uniforms carrying
+quarters of beef toward the barrack buildings on the hill; a detachment
+in Scotch kilts marching to relieve the guards on sentinel duty at the
+neutral ground; many smart looking corporals and sergeants in short red
+jackets and little red caps placed jauntily on the sides of their heads,
+carrying short canes; an elderly looking officer in spotless white
+flannel, to whom the military salute was given by all soldiers who
+passed him; numbers of officers in red coats and white duck trousers;
+and a group of troopers in undress uniform of coarse white or grey, who
+had been grooming the horses in the stables.
+
+[Illustration: THERE IS A LITTLE MILK-MAID SERVING MILK.]
+
+Other things of interest that the camera of our eyes snapped as we
+hurried along, were yellow-slippered, bare-legged, swarthy Arabs gliding
+quietly by; a neat grey-gowned nurse taking two pretty English children
+to early service; Spaniards in long black cloaks and felt hats drawn
+down, who looked exactly like the conspirators we see in a play; many
+sailors in the garb of various nations, who appeared to be enjoying a
+holiday ashore; Hebrew residents in peculiar looking coarse costumes;
+well dressed English people with prayer books on their way to church;
+Moors from Tangiers in snow-white turbans, and black-haired Spanish
+senoritas with large pompadours, high combs, and mantillas draped
+gracefully over their heads. These, with many others, met our sight;
+but, among all the crowd we encountered, we were not approached by a
+beggar, the soliciting of alms being forbidden by the military
+authorities.
+
+We paused to glance at the little Trafalgar cemetery, but did not enter.
+
+"Here," said the English guide, "sleep many of the British heroes who
+with our gallant Nelson gave their lives to gain the famous naval
+victory of the Bay of Trafalgar, in which the French and Spanish fleets
+were destroyed. Bonaparte boasted that the combined navies of the two
+countries would crush our British fleet, and then his army would cross
+the channel and camp in London; but our brave Admiral upset Napoleon's
+plans."
+
+Beyond the cemetery we crossed the Alameda or Park Gardens, the pleasure
+ground of the people, where the military band plays in the afternoon and
+evening. There we saw a luxuriant growth of subtropical vegetation,
+orange trees with leaves of dark, glossy green, date palms with bunches
+of unripe dates, palms with broad leaves, spreading pepper trees, and
+great ash trees whose roots protruded above the ground for unwary
+tourists to stumble over. The geraniums and heliotropes were of gigantic
+size, and many other flowering plants were unusually large.
+
+[Illustration: EACH COMPARTMENT SEATS EIGHT.]
+
+Our guide persuaded us to enter a museum, as he called it; but this
+proved to be a regular old curiosity shop containing a large assortment
+of oddities and souvenirs with which the owner was willing to part for a
+sufficient compensation.
+
+"There is a little milkmaid serving milk. I'll take a snap-shot of her
+while she is at work," said one of our party with a camera as we drew
+near a young girl who was drawing milk directly from a brown-haired goat
+into a customer's pitcher.
+
+While returning to the wharf we met several herds of the brown-haired
+goats driven by milkmen through the streets; and, assembled near the
+dock around a group of English Salvation Army lads and lasses who were
+singing familiar hymns accompanied by cornet and drum, we saw a motley
+crowd of men, many of whom from their diverse and peculiar costumes were
+evidently sailors from various ports of the world. Then, having
+completed our hurried tramp through the city in the time allotted for
+that purpose, we descended the steps at the pier to the ferry-boat that
+was to carry us a few miles across the bay to the town of Algeciras.
+
+After thirty minutes on the ferry we stepped ashore on Spanish soil. The
+first special train had departed and the second was being made up.
+During the short interval of waiting, the kodak carriers were busily
+engaged securing their first Spanish views.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+GRANADA AND THE ALHAMBRA.
+
+
+The small cars on the railroad which carried us from Algeciras to
+Granada were divided into compartments with doors opening from the
+sides. Each compartment comfortably seated eight persons, four facing
+the front and four the rear. This arrangement of seating allows general
+conversation among the group, and, if the occupants are congenial,
+promotes sociability.
+
+A traveler speeding through the United States in a "Chicago Limited," at
+the rate of sixty miles an hour, can merely catch glimpses of objects on
+the way and receive only blurred and indistinct impressions of the
+scenery; but when traveling in the "Spanish Express," at the more
+moderate speed of twenty-five miles an hour, he can enjoy clear and
+vivid pictures of the unfolding panorama. Let me try to describe some of
+these pictures just as they appeared to us during the trip.
+
+Looking back after leaving Algeciras, we saw the huge rock of Gibraltar,
+almost an island, connected with the main land by a narrow, flat, sandy
+isthmus. Across the "neutral ground," as the strip between the English
+and Spanish possessions is called, a line of sentry boxes extended, and
+red-coated British sentinels paced back and forth. Parallel to the
+British line there was another line of sentry boxes, where the
+soldiers of Alfonzo were on guard to prevent the smuggling of tobacco
+and other forbidden wares into Spain.
+
+[Illustration: TWELVE WEATHER BEATEN MARBLE LIONS UPHOLD AN ALABASTER
+BASIN.]
+
+"See those miserable little white plastered huts with roofs made of
+straw," said one of our party. "I did not know that the people were so
+poor."
+
+This picture of poverty was our first impression of Spain. For some
+distance the train had been running through a region apparently
+unfertile, where fences of sharp spined cacti enclosed small fields. The
+people were shabbily dressed, the houses straw-thatched and dilapidated,
+and the little patches of land poorly cultivated. It seemed that Sunday
+was a common wash-day; for at almost every cottage the family wash was
+hanging in the sun on trees, shrubs, or cacti.
+
+Within an hour, however, we were passing through a section of the
+country entirely different in aspect, where the cork industry gives
+employment to many people. For a distance of eight or ten miles groves
+of cork-oak trees were in sight. At the station were bulky piles of cork
+bark, cars stacked with cork were on the sidings, and great carts drawn
+by oxen were on the roads bringing in still more of this valuable
+commodity.
+
+"Millions of bottles are made in our city," said a New Jersey girl, "and
+there is enough cork here in sight to stopper them all."
+
+Beyond this, the land was more fertile and under better cultivation.
+Well built stone houses replaced the huts; glossy-leaved orange trees
+and pink-blossomed almond trees dotted the fields or filled the
+orchards. Instead of fences, the boundaries of fields and farms were
+marked at the corners by white stones projecting above the ground.
+Farther along, yellow-green olive plantations, magnificent in size and
+beautiful in color, filling the valleys and hillsides as far as the eye
+could see with orderly, far-reaching lines of trees, made so impressive
+a sight that it drew forth many expressions of admiration.
+
+[Illustration: SPANISH CHILDREN CAME TO THE STATION.]
+
+Women, as gatekeepers, waved white flags to signal that the crossings
+were clear. Gangs of men, often thirty in a gang, were in the fields
+cultivating leeks or onions with crude, heavy-looking, short-handled
+hoes. Teams of long-horned oxen attached to old-fashioned plows, at
+times eight or ten teams in one field, were turning up the soil.
+Occasionally ox-teams drawing heavily laden carts or wagons were seen
+along the smooth white roads; but more frequently appeared trains of
+slowly moving donkeys, five or six in a line, with gay trappings and
+bells and panniers piled high with produce, driven by red-sashed
+muleteers.
+
+At stations where the train stopped five or ten minutes, the doors at
+the sides of the compartments were opened and the passengers descended
+and walked up and down the platform. Spanish women, carrying jugs, cried
+"Lacte," "Limonada," "Narrandjada," and "Acqua," and other peddlers with
+baskets offered "bollos," "tortitas," and "narranges." After some
+difficulties in obtaining information as to "how much," the shillings
+and pence, pesetas and centimes of the tourists were exchanged for the
+milk, lemonade, orangeade, and water, the cakes, rolls, and oranges of
+the dealers.
+
+One of the ladies, after making a purchase, said, "I asked that woman
+with the black-eyed baby the price of a half dozen oranges. She said,
+'Fifty centimes.' Then I offered her an English six-pence, and she gave
+me six oranges and a penny in change."
+
+Spanish boys scrambled for a roll or boiled eggs thrown to them, and
+men, women, and children extended their hands for money or remnants of
+our luncheon. One boy who had secured an apple and an egg in a scramble
+laughed with happiness over his success. These people did not appear to
+be destitute; for children, as well as adults, were comfortably clothed,
+and wore neat looking shoes and stockings. As the day, however, was
+Sunday, probably they were in holiday attire.
+
+The red-capped station masters were important personages. At the
+principal stations they directed the starting of the trains with the
+greatest care and deliberation. In our own country the conductor's hand
+touches the signal-cord and the train moves. At Ronda, a bell in the
+station rang, then a red-capped employee trotted along the length of the
+train ringing a hand dinner bell. A minute later he repeated his trip
+with warning bell, then the whistle tooted, but it was not until the
+red-cap was sure that every passenger was aboard that the whistle issued
+a second toot and the wheels began to revolve. These extraordinary
+precautions, although affording amusement for the tourists, may have
+been taken under special orders of the railroad officials in order to
+avoid accidents and insure our safety. At any rate, we know that the
+railroad officials and their Spanish employees did give us special
+attention and treat us with kindness and courtesy.
+
+[Illustration: "MAY WE KODAK YOU?" "THEY ALL DO," HE REPLIED.]
+
+Through many deep cuts and tunnels, over romantic gorges of dark depth,
+and along cliffs whose heights we could not see, the train climbed and
+crossed a mountain range. As the car emerged from tunnel or cut,
+changing scenes of wild and savage landscape appeared near by, and
+charming glimpses of distant valleys far below. The torrents and
+waterfalls of the river Gaudiara added to the weird beauty of the scene.
+A stanza in Southey's poem, "The Cataract of Lodore," fittingly
+describes the wildness of the river that we crossed and re-crossed so
+often:
+
+                "Here it comes sparkling
+              And there it lies darkling:
+              Now smoking and frothing
+                The cataract strong
+                Then plunges along,
+    And dashing and flashing and splashing and clashing:
+    And so never ending but ever descending,
+    Sound and motions forever are blending."
+
+A famous canyon, deep and narrow, with rushing, foaming stream, seemed
+like a crevice sliced down by a gigantic blade. Towns and villages far
+away amid green fields and gray olive orchards, and buildings of white
+and cream, luminous in the sunlight, with backgrounds of dark and rugged
+mountains, produced a succession of picturesque views. Among the hills
+were seen young Davids, staff in hand, guarding flocks of grazing sheep,
+ancient swineherds lazily watching droves of swine feeding on the roots,
+and goatherds following their nimble-footed brown herds as they picked
+their way among the rocks.
+
+As we approached our destination, the valleys showed signs of great
+prosperity. The fields were highly cultivated; the farms were irrigated
+by ditches of flowing water; the orchards were well trimmed; the
+buildings larger; and the red-sashed laborers more sprucely attired.
+
+[Illustration: MARVELOUSLY BEAUTIFUL IN MOORISH SPLENDOR.]
+
+At Pinos we saw the stone bridge where, in 1492, Columbus, on his way to
+France, disheartened by his failure to interest King Ferdinand in his
+plans, was over-taken by Queen Isabella's messenger and summoned back to
+court to receive his commission.
+
+As twilight was settling down we arrived on schedule time at the white
+stone station in Granada where carriages stood in waiting to convey us
+to the hotels. The Spanish drivers strove to surpass each other in
+speed. Our coachman lashed his horses till they ran like a run-away
+team. Regardless of anyone in the streets, grazing wagons by the way,
+overtaking and passing carriages ahead, he gave us the wildest ride we
+had ever taken. This chariot race to the hotel, a distance of over a
+mile, happily ended without accident or collision.
+
+"Well, I'm thankful that ride is over without an upset," exclaimed with
+a sigh of relief a nervous lady, who had tried ineffectually to restrain
+the driver's zeal by the use of English words which he did not
+understand.
+
+The old Cathedral, covering ground equal to a block in length and half a
+block in width, always attracts many visitors. Massive pillars support
+the roof and marble tiles cover the floor. The light, falling softly
+through stained glass windows, discloses valuable paintings on the
+walls, fine statuary in the aisles, and decorations of white and gold.
+
+"Is this building very old?" some one inquired.
+
+"Old!" replied the guide with scorn in his voice, "this Cathedral was
+here when Columbus discovered your country." The guide, however,
+exaggerated somewhat. It was built just about the time America was
+discovered.
+
+[Illustration: HERE WASHINGTON IRVING LIVED FOR A TIME.]
+
+In the Royal Chapel of the Cathedral, upon an alabaster mausoleum
+decorated with fine carving, lie the effigies of Ferdinand and Isabella.
+The soft, creamy alabaster gives them the appearance of sleeping. An
+inscription on the tomb reads as follows:
+
+     This chapel was founded by most Catholic Don Fernando and Dona
+     Isable, King and Queen of Spain, of Naples, of Sicily, of
+     Jerusalem, who conquered this kingdom and brought it back to our
+     Faith; who acquired the Canary Isles and the Indies; who crushed
+     heresy, and expelled the Moors and Jews from these realms.
+
+              Queen Dona Isable died Nov. 26, 1504.
+              King Don Fernando died Jan. 23, 1516.
+
+
+On the altar of the chapel is a very interesting bas-relief representing
+the surrender of the city of Granada. In the sacristy we were shown the
+carefully guarded holy relics; the richly embroidered vestments used on
+ceremonial occasions, the sword of Ferdinand; the sceptre, crown, and
+mirror of Isabella; and the casket which contained the jewels that the
+Queen offered in pledge to secure funds for Columbus.
+
+"Most precious of all the relics," said the sacristan, "is the
+handkerchief with which the blessed Santa Veronica wiped the sweat from
+the Savior's brow on the road to Calvary. This bears the impression of
+the Savior's face."
+
+The greatest point of interest in Granada, perhaps in all Spain, is, of
+course, the Alhambra. This is the name given to a collection of
+buildings located on an elevation that overlooks the city. These palaces
+on the heights were for many centuries the dwelling places of the
+Moorish kings, surrounded by their nobles, retainers, and guardsmen.
+They were also the repositories in which were stored the immense
+treasure accumulated from the forays of the Moors upon the Christians of
+northern Spain, and from the sacking of Christian cities. The palaces of
+the rulers and the treasure within were protected by great citadels and
+by stout walls which encircled the heights.
+
+[Illustration: DECORATED WITH ARABESQUES AND STORIED WITH
+INSCRIPTIONS.]
+
+In the latter part of the fifteenth century, after a long struggle, the
+Moorish power was overthrown by King Ferdinand, and since then Granada
+has been a Spanish city. Columbus was present at the court of the
+Spanish sovereign when the capitulation of Granada occurred in April,
+1492, and within two weeks after the surrender of the city received his
+commission to sail in search of a new world.
+
+Washington Irving's description of the entrance of the conquering
+Spaniards into the Alhambra after the capture of the city, might, with
+the change of a word or two, still portray the visit of a party of
+modern tourists.
+
+[Illustration: THE GENERALIFE OVERLOOKS THE ALHAMBRA.]
+
+"The halls lately occupied by turbaned infidels," he writes, "now
+rustled with stately dames and Christian courtiers, who wandered with
+eager curiosity over this far-famed palace, admiring its verdant courts
+and gushing fountains, its halls decorated with elegant arabesques, and
+storied with inscriptions, and the splendor of its gilded and
+brilliantly painted ceilings."
+
+[Illustration: PROTECTED BY CITADELS AND WALLS.]
+
+Although the coloring is faded, and in many places the intricate
+ornamentation is crumbling or broken, sufficient remains to show how
+marvelously beautiful it must have been in Moorish splendor. And
+beautiful it still is, notwithstanding the ravages of time.
+
+While in the Court of Myrtles, some of the party examined the light,
+graceful arches and the stucco tapestry interwoven with flowers and
+leaves that adorn the galleries; others were more interested in the gold
+fish swimming in the transparent water of the long sunken tank in the
+center of the tiled court. In the richly ornamented Hall of the
+Ambassadors, the state reception room of the king, we waited while the
+guide, in answer to a request, interpreted some of the delicately carved
+inscriptions that fill every available space on the wall.
+
+"One of these mottoes," said the guide, "that is repeated over and over
+again on almost every wall of the palace, reads: 'There is no conqueror
+but Allah.' Other mottoes which are very common are: 'There is no God
+but Allah;' 'Mohammed is the envoy of Allah;' 'Allah is great;' 'Allah
+never forgets;' and various quotations from the Koran."
+
+Twelve weatherbeaten marble lions in the center of the Court of Lions
+uphold a large alabaster basin in which were caught, in times gone by,
+the falling waters of the fountain above it. Many graceful pillars
+support the surrounding arcades of this court and the exquisite
+fret-work looks as if carved in ivory.
+
+A practical man in the party called attention to the beautiful wooden
+doors through which we entered the Hall of the Abencerrages, and to the
+peculiar manner in which they were hung on pivots instead of hinges. On
+the rim of the marble basin in the center of this hall some red stains
+were seen.
+
+"Here," said our guide, "is where the heads of the Abencerrages were cut
+off.
+
+"But why was Aben's head cut off?" inquired a lady.
+
+This gave the guide the opportunity he desired.
+
+"A prominent member of the tribe or family of the Abencerrages, named
+Hamet," he replied, "fell in love with the Sultana, and she in return
+loved the handsome and gallant warrior. Secret meetings took place under
+a cypress tree in the garden of the Generalife until the Sultan,
+Boabdil, accidentally discovered their meetings. The enraged Boabdil,
+without revealing his knowledge of their actions, invited the guilty
+Hamet and every member of his tribe to attend a banquet. As each guest
+arrived at the palace he was brought into this hall. Here the guards
+seized him, forced his head over the edge of this basin, and the sharp
+simitar of the executioner showed no mercy. This was the king's revenge,
+and so the stains on the fountain."
+
+The Room of Two Sisters brought forth exclamations of praise. Walls
+covered with dainty traceries in plaster, like embroideries on a ground
+of lace work; dados brilliant in fantastic designs of red, green, and
+blue; ceilings dropping thousands of stalactites each differing from the
+others in beauty of form; and charming views from the boudoir windows of
+floral beds and fountains in the garden beyond,--all these combined to
+make this place a suitable residence for a Queen.
+
+In the Baths we saw where royalty had bathed in marble basins to the
+sound of music by players in the gallery overhead.
+
+"Here are the rooms which Washington Irving occupied in the Alhambra
+during his stay in Granada," explained the guide.
+
+[Illustration: THE SUMMER RESIDENCE OF THE MOORISH KINGS.]
+
+Some of us tried to recall Irving's graphic descriptions in the
+"Conquest of Granada" of the scenes around this city; of the struggles
+between the Christian knights under the banner of Ferdinand, and the
+Moorish cavaliers under the standard of Mahomet; of fields covered with
+silken canopies; of cavalcades of warriors in jeweled armor and nodding
+plumes; of hand-to-hand conflicts and daring exploits; of the siege
+and capture of the city and expulsion of the Moors from Spain. As we
+thought of the unfortunate Boabdil, the noble queen mother Ayxa, and the
+beautiful Zoraya, driven into exile, giving up their beloved palace, the
+home of their ancestors with all its wealth and beauty, to their hated
+enemies, and leaving the land which had been in possession of the Moors
+for eight centuries, we to some extent realized the sorrow that filled
+the hearts of the departing exiles as they looked back for the last time
+on the heights of Granada and wept.
+
+[Illustration: CHARMING VIEWS FROM BOUDOIR WINDOWS.]
+
+Although the buildings of the Alhambra are partly in ruins, the view
+from the Old Watch Tower has not changed materially. Standing on the
+tiled roof to which we climbed by many well worn stone steps, we saw a
+magnificent panorama spread out before us. The city lay almost at our
+feet; beautiful valleys extended for many miles dotted with white
+villages; gray olive orchards appeared here and there; verdant hills
+rose in the distance; and, forty miles away, the snow-covered peaks of
+the Sierra Nevada pierced the sky.
+
+After leaving the tower, we drove to the Palace of the Generalife, which
+is situated on the mountain side considerably higher than the Alhambra.
+We approached this beautifully located residence, where Moorish kings
+came to spend the summer months, by a wide path bordered with tall
+cypress trees. In the Court of the Cypresses our Spanish guide pointed
+to a venerable tree and said: "That cypress is six hundred years old;
+under it the guilty lovers, the Queen and Hamet, had their meetings
+until discovered by King Boabdil."
+
+In the gardens of the Generalife, we rambled amid oddly trimmed trees,
+climbing roses, immense rose bushes, fountains, and grottoes, and wished
+that our stay might be prolonged. The terraces of the garden have
+flights of marble steps leading from one level to another. One of the
+flights we descended had runlets of water flowing down on the top of the
+marble balustrades. Water, clear and sparkling, which is brought from a
+mountain stream above, is abundant everywhere in fountains and pools,
+and in streamlets along the pathways.
+
+Among the sights of the city the milk delivery was interesting to
+strangers. A number of long-haired brown goats having been driven to the
+door of a house, a pitcher was brought and the milk drawn fresh from one
+of the goats; or a cow was led along the street and the milk furnished
+directly from the cow in any quantity desired by the customer.
+
+Small donkeys with panniers were used instead of wagons for the transfer
+of almost every kind of material in the city and country. Often the
+burdens were so large that the donkey was almost lost from sight. We saw
+these patient little animals driven through the streets variously laden
+with sacks of charcoal, bundles of wood, baskets of vegetables, crates
+of oranges, bags of coal, cans of water, kegs of wine, or bearing
+hampers filled with building stone, bright tinware, or new-mown grass.
+Even the street cleaners shoveled into the panniers on the donkeys'
+backs the dirt and refuse that had been collected on the streets.
+Occasionally we saw men or women or children perched on the top of a
+load. Two men were sometimes seen riding on one donkey, and once we
+observed three large men on one small donkey.
+
+[Illustration: INTO THE PANNIERS ON THE DONKEY'S BACK.]
+
+As we drove along the streets to the station the residents at doors,
+windows, and sidewalks smilingly commented among themselves on our
+outlandish foreign costumes, evidently comparing our American styles
+with their own familiar dress. It was certainly as interesting to the
+Spanish women to observe the peculiarities of our costumes as it was for
+us to notice the mantillas and gay bodices which gave them a picturesque
+appearance in our eyes. We were being inspected as well as they; but the
+Spaniards are so polite that there was nothing unpleasant in their
+curiosity.
+
+It was after midnight when the steam launches carried us across the bay
+from Algeciras to our steamship. The reception given us at the Moltke,
+after our two days' absence, made us feel that we had indeed arrived
+home. Colored fires reddened the waters, clusters of electric lights
+illumined the sides of the vessel, the band was playing on deck, and the
+captain welcomed us at the head of the gangway. Then while the orchestra
+played selections, a full course midnight dinner was served to the
+hungry pilgrims.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+THE CITY OF ALGIERS.
+
+
+On the morning of Tuesday, February seventeenth, the Moltke was speeding
+over a calm sea toward the coast of Africa. The tourists, after the
+strenuous sight-seeing of the past two days, luxuriously rested. Some
+lazily lounged in steamer chairs with pillows under their heads and gay
+blankets over them; others exchanged experiences with friends while
+sauntering slowly around the deck. Some in groups surrounded the card
+tables, playing or watching the games; while others read books from the
+shelves of the library, or gathered the latest home news from the
+columns of the London Times, or the Paris edition of the New York
+Herald, copies of which had been taken on board at Gibraltar.
+
+During the afternoon, however, a north-east wind suddenly arose which
+stirred the blue waters of the Mediterranean until the short choppy
+waves gave to the vessel a new and peculiar roll, differing from any
+previously experienced by those on board. As a result, many of the
+passengers, not being able to adjust themselves to this unfamiliar
+change of motion, became suddenly pale, and prudently retired to the
+privacy of their staterooms. But by the time the evening dinner was
+served the wind had somewhat subsided, and the majority of the
+passengers gathered in the saloon for an entertainment in the form of a
+roll-call of states. This was presided over in a jolly manner by a
+prominent lawyer from Philadelphia. As he called the name of a state,
+some native of that state responded in a short informal address in which
+he praised his section of the country so highly that he made it appear
+to be a perfect El Dorado. There was but time to hear from seventeen
+states although representatives from almost every state in the Union and
+from Canada were present.
+
+When the sun rose on Wednesday morning our steamer was anchored within
+the breakwater a short distance from the docks in the harbor of Algiers.
+A pleasant sight greeted our eyes when we came on deck. We saw a little
+white boat gliding over the waves flying the American flag, then two
+white steam launches speeding through the harbor with the same emblem
+floating in the breeze, while, over to the left, we descried at anchor
+three white gun boats, and hanging at their sterns our country's flag.
+
+[Illustration: LIKE GHOSTS WALKING THROUGH THE STREETS.]
+
+"Three cheers for the Stars and Stripes," cried an enthusiast, and the
+hurrahs were given earnestly and vigorously.
+
+On the bulletin board we found the following notice posted:
+
+     PROGRAM FOR ALGIERS.
+
+     The Managers will furnish landing tickets to the tourists but all
+     expenses while on shore in Algiers will be borne by each
+     individual.
+
+     Carriages will be waiting on the docks for those who desire to
+     ride, at their own expense, and a guide will be assigned to go with
+     every four carriages.
+
+     Meals may be obtained by returning to the ship, and passengers are
+     expected to return to the vessel at night.
+
+"How shall we spend the day without a definite plan laid out for us?"
+said one of a group at the bulletin board.
+
+"Let us take carriages with a guide as interpreter," suggested another,
+"and drive around the city during the morning, then buy our luncheon at
+a French restaurant, and spend the afternoon tramping around and
+visiting the shops."
+
+"That will suit me, especially the shopping part; I want to buy some
+souvenirs," replied a third.
+
+"And return hungry to the vessel in time for a good dinner in the
+evening," added a fourth.
+
+Descending the ship's ladder, we placed ourselves in the care of the
+bronzed Arab boatmen, whose little boats had for some time been circling
+around the steamer, and were rowed to the custom house pier. Not having
+luggage to be examined, we fearlessly passed the red-trousered custom
+officials in the building and crossed the busy docks to the carriages in
+waiting.
+
+[Illustration: THE LITTLE MOSQUE IN GOUVERNMENT SQUARE.]
+
+At the docks many vessels were lying, and the wharves were filled with
+outgoing and incoming freight. Beyond the docks along the front of the
+city is a broad avenue, the Boulevard de la Republic, elevated forty or
+fifty feet above the wharves. This boulevard is supported on the sea
+side by solid white stone arcaded walls, and is reached by inclined
+roadways or by handsome stone stairways. On the land side it is lined
+with substantial white stone buildings of uniform height with an arcade
+in front.
+
+The population of the city of Algiers, about 100,000, is composed
+principally of Moors, Arabs, Negroes, and other African nationalities,
+but with a large number of French, and many Hebrews, some Spanish,
+English, and other Continental representatives, and a few Americans. On
+its streets we saw faces of different colors ranging from pure white,
+through all the tints of brown, to the deepest black.
+
+In the Place de Gouvernment, one of the centers of business and
+religious life of the city, we met turbaned Arabs, barefoot negroes,
+red-trousered soldiers, French civilians, American tourists, Hebrew
+traders, Kabyle mountaineers. In this motley crowd the native men and
+women especially attracted our attention. The Algerine men wore long
+white gowns fastened at the waist with a girdle; white cloaks, called
+bournous, around their shoulders; and white turbans of many folds on
+their heads. The richer classes were arrayed in spotless garments of
+fine material, stockings, and ornamented sandals; the laborers wore
+coarse gowns, and sandals made of rope; while the unclean bodies of
+importunate beggars and unfortunate cripples were but partially covered
+with filthy sacking and rags which hung upon them.
+
+The Mohammedan women, wearing long bloomers made exceedingly full, and
+white mantles resembling sheets draped over their heads and falling
+loosely around their bodies, looked like ghosts as they walked through
+the streets. The white bandages or veils wrapped around their heads
+concealed all the features except the eyes, which appeared black and
+piercing. The Arab men may be able to distinguish the age of these
+veiled females, but it was difficult for us to tell which were old
+women, and which young, except by the elasticity of their movements.
+
+[Illustration: THE ALGERINE MEN WEAR LONG WHITE GOWNS.]
+
+Near the Place de Gouvernment is the imposing palace of the Governor
+where all official business is transacted. Adjoining the palace stands
+the handsome Roman Catholic Cathedral. A long flight of white marble
+steps leads up to the doors of the Cathedral and a spreading palm tree
+stands like a guard near the foot of the stairway. As we stood before
+the tomb of St. Geronimo in the interior of the Cathedral, we listened
+to the following tale told by our Catholic guide.
+
+"A young man by the name of Geronimo, who lived in Italy about three
+hundred and fifty years ago, was captured by the Moors, and because he
+would not renounce the Christian religion, was condemned by his captors
+to death by torture. They tied his feet and hands with cords and threw
+him alive into a mould of soft concrete which slowly hardened around
+him, and the stone thus formed was built into the wall of a fortress
+then in course of construction. Fifty years ago, when the fortress was
+being demolished, the block of stone was discovered with the skeleton
+enclosed therein. The bones were carefully removed and interred in this
+Chapel in the tomb you see before you. Into the vacant space within the
+block of concrete, after removal of the bones, liquid plaster of Paris
+was poured, as into a mould, and a perfect model of Geronimo's body was
+obtained and placed in the Museum. It was in recognition of this act of
+heroism in refusing to renounce the Christian faith that the martyr was
+canonized and the name of Geronimo was added to the calendar of the
+saints of our Church."
+
+In confirmation of the guide's story, the plaster of Paris model of the
+dead martyr's body may be seen among the curiosities and antiquities in
+the National Museum, a short distance from the Cathedral. This model
+shows the features, the clothing, and the cords which tied his feet and
+hands.
+
+The main business part of the city is not only modern but model, having
+clean, well paved streets lined with substantial white stone four-story
+buildings with arcades or covered pavements in front of them. As very
+little smoke or soot rises from the city the white buildings have not
+become soiled and darkened but retain their freshness and purity of
+color.
+
+Many of the stores we visited were kept by Arabs who understood French
+but could speak only a few words of English. The prices named by these
+merchants were generally two or three times more than they expected
+customers to pay, and it was very amusing to watch the process of a
+sale. A price was named by the dealer; a bid was made by the customer;
+then figuring, explaining, and dickering went on in a mixture of
+languages and signs until finally, if the buyer's patience did not wear
+out, the deal closed with a compromise. When the purchaser departed
+happy with a bargain, the dealer also appeared well satisfied, and if
+the same buyer returned to the store after once making a purchase, the
+Arab merchant would recognize and welcome him with most gracious smiles
+as if he were one of his warmest friends.
+
+In these shops there was offered for sale such a varied and attractive
+assortment of oriental wares, that by evening the tourists were laden
+with packages. Handsome silk rugs, embroidered silk waists, curiously
+carved Algerine weapons, brightly colored leather goods, articles of
+hammered brass or copper, silver filagree work, ornaments of silver and
+gold, trinkets of ivory, coral and pearl, fans, photographs, and picture
+postal cards purchased during the day, were stored away in staterooms as
+souvenirs of Algiers.
+
+At the market stands were fruits and vegetables in abundance. The dates
+offered were especially pleasing in appearance and quality. The bread
+dealers, we noticed, sold bread by weight, and added or cut off chunks
+and slices in order to give the exact weight wanted by customers.
+
+The beggars did not trouble us very much by their importunities,
+although they were to be seen everywhere in filth and rags. Street
+peddlers, however, were persistent in offering wares and trinkets for
+sale, and bright Arab boys, who had learned a few sentences of English
+ran after us offering their services as guides.
+
+The coffee shops which we saw while passing through the streets were as
+numerous in Algiers as beer saloons in an American city. As the
+Mohammedan religion forbids the use of alcoholic liquors, the Arab
+followers of Mahomet appeared to be satisfying their craving for
+stimulants by drinking strong black coffee and by drinking it often. In
+the cafes, which are open in front, allowing all that goes on inside to
+be visible from the street, and on the benches outside the shops, we saw
+the customers sitting crosslegged slowly imbibing this favorite beverage
+from tiny cups. It was plainly apparent that in this warm climate where
+there is no haste, numberless hours are dreamed away on the benches of
+these cafes.
+
+[Illustration: ON FRIDAYS THE WOMEN VISIT THE CEMETERY.]
+
+When we left the modern part of the city and ascended the avenues which
+lead up the hill toward the older portion we found the streets
+diminishing in width until they were only passageways from six to ten
+feet wide, bordered by high buildings with blank walls showing no
+windows below, but with projecting windows above which almost meet
+overhead. In some of these steep, narrow, crooked streets there are
+little shops about the size of a large closet in which the merchant,
+sitting crosslegged on bench or cushion, can reach his goods and wait on
+his customer without rising or interfering with the enjoyment of his
+pipe. As the narrow thoroughfares are not wide enough for carriages, we
+had to walk through them with a guide. We were not favorably impressed
+with the odors nor with the sight of the filth in the streets and were
+glad when the guide turned from the gloom and foulness of the ancient
+Moorish streets and led us again toward the bright and attractive
+avenues of the modern city.
+
+The electric street cars are divided into two compartments; the first
+class having thin cushions on the seats, and the second class having
+wooden seats without cushions. The natives save the extra penny of fare
+by crowding into the second class, thus giving to the first class
+passengers the advantage of always having enough room. In the second
+class, however, the tourists had a more favorable opportunity to study
+the people. Opposite us in one of the second class compartments which we
+entered sat two veiled women in their voluminous white bloomers and
+wrappings. We could see that one was old by the fact that she leaned
+upon a staff, and we decided that the other was young because she showed
+some curiosity. Sitting near us was a little black haired Arab girl
+with a chunk of dry bread in her hand, at which she was gnawing
+greedily. In a corner seat a meek looking nun in black gown and wide
+spreading stiff bonnet was counting the beads of her rosary as quietly
+as if alone in her devotions.
+
+[Illustration: ABLUTION AT THE FOUNTAIN BEFORE PRAYER IN THE MOSQUE.]
+
+"Look," said one, as we were leaving the car, "there is the 'Thomson and
+Houston' stamp on the motor."
+
+"Yes," responded another, "American products appear to be well
+represented in this French colony."
+
+On the main business thoroughfare we had noticed warerooms where
+'Singer' sewing machines are sold; at an agency of the 'Eastman Company'
+we had restocked our kodaks with films; and we could not avoid seeing on
+a large sign, in letters that could be read a block away, the words
+'American Dentist.' Consequently when we passed the American Consulate
+it was with a feeling of pride that we saluted the National Emblem which
+was floating gracefully in the breeze.
+
+In the Rue de Marine we saw an old structure of large dimensions with a
+long row of plain white marble columns in front, which, from its
+appearance, might be mistaken for an old warehouse. We were told by a
+Moslem guard, who fortunately understood our inquiry and was able to
+answer our questions in English, that the building is the Mosque El
+Tebir, the Great Mosque, and that we might enter subject to certain
+regulations.
+
+"You must remove your shoes," said he, "or wear slippers over your
+shoes. You must also pay a small entrance fee."
+
+In the vestibule, the door-keepers of the Mosque selected slippers from
+an assortment of different sizes which they kept for visitors' use and
+tied these over our shoes with tapes. We were then permitted to enter
+and wander around the interior over the handsome Persian rugs which
+cover the stone floor.
+
+"The Moslems regard their Mosques as very sacred places consecrated to
+the worship of Allah, and they will not permit any profanation of their
+sanctuary," cautioned one of our party, a Presbyterian minister, seeing
+that we were inclined to make fun of the slippers. "The Moslems remove
+their shoes and enter the place of worship with reverence, and they
+expect us to behave in a respectful manner."
+
+[Illustration: THE CATHEDRAL ADJOINS THE PALACE OF THE GOVERNOR.]
+
+"The removal of the shoes at the entrance to a place of worship,"
+continued the minister in explanation, "is an immemorial Eastern custom
+based on the words: 'And he said, Draw not nigh hither; put off thy
+shoes from off thy feet, for the place whereon thou standest is holy
+ground,' and also on the words: 'And the captain of the Lord's hosts
+said unto Joshua, Loose thy shoe from off thy foot; for the place
+whereon thou standest is holy. And Joshua did so.' We should remember
+that the Mohammedan faith is based on the Old Testament, though
+supplemented by the instructions of Mahomet."
+
+In this ancient Mosque, where the worship of Allah and the study of the
+Koran has continued for nine hundred years, we found a few barefoot
+worshipers, some kneeling muttering their prayers, while others squatted
+on the floor reading the Koran aloud. At one end of the interior we saw
+the niche which indicates the direction in which lies the Holy City of
+Mecca, and toward this, as is the custom in all Mohammedan mosques, the
+worshipers turn their faces while at prayer. There were no benches or
+chairs in the mosque, as the devotees assumed a crosslegged position on
+the thick rugs during the time of their reading, and stood or knelt
+while offering prayer.
+
+The Jardin d'Essai, or Botanical Garden, situated in the suburbs near
+the sea about two miles from the center of the city, is reached by an
+electric street car of American make which for a three-cent fare
+carried us to the gates. In the garden the large and varied collection
+of tropical trees, plants, and vines, so different from those growing in
+our own temperate climate, greatly delighted us. An "Avenue of Palms"
+half a mile long was lined with palm trees of many varieties, some
+wide-spreading and curiously branching has broad leaves, and others,
+high-growing, has tufted tops swaying in the air fifty or sixty feet
+above our heads. A wider avenue of similar length was bordered with
+magnolia trees of immense growth which we then saw only in bud, but it
+was not difficult to see in imagination the magnificent picture that
+would be presented to the eye, when later on, these millions of buds
+overhead would be in full bloom. The "Bamboo Pathway" led through a
+dense growth of bamboos whose slender poles, bending under a slight
+breeze, kept up a continual creaking sound. Huge trees, whose
+wide-spreading branches were supported by scores of accessory trunks, so
+that each tree formed a grove of its own, we recognized as banyan trees.
+In one part of the garden, winding paths led through a tangled tropical
+growth so dense and wild that one felt as if in the midst of an African
+jungle where a tiger might spring forth or a boa constrictor drop down
+on one's head.
+
+On the heights to the east, in the favorite modern residential district,
+called Mustapha Superieur, many large white stone hotels and apartment
+houses were situated amid gardens of glossy-leaved orange and lemon
+trees. Palms, plane, and pepper trees lined the clean, wide avenues;
+green terraces beautified the hillside gardens; and villas were almost
+hidden from sight by the climbing roses and luxuriant vines with
+clusters of purple racemes.
+
+"Many of these villas," said the guide, "are owned by wealthy English
+and French families who spend the winters here. The mild climate and
+uniform temperature of our city makes this place a favorite winter
+resort not only for invalids, but for those who desire to get away from
+the damp fogs and harsh winds of more northern climates."
+
+[Illustration: THE ENTRANCE TO A NARROW STREET.]
+
+"Our city is noted for two views which we think are unsurpassed," he
+continued, as the driver reined in his team on a summit. "One is this
+which we now look down upon of city, harbor, sea, and villages near and
+distant along the shore. The other, you already have seen from the deck
+of the vessel, yet at sunset you will find that panorama of the city,
+villages, heights and mountains even more beautiful."
+
+While we were exploring the city, the officers on the steamer were
+engaged in directing the taking on of fresh supplies of coal, water, and
+provisions, which had been purchased at Algiers. During the two days the
+Moltke lay in the harbor fifteen hundred tons of coal were carried in
+baskets on the shoulders of Arabs from barges into the hold of the
+vessel, a slow method of delivering compared with the rush of the steam
+scoops in New York harbor where three thousand tons were dumped into the
+bunkers in a few hours' time. Fresh water also was brought from shore in
+tank barges and pumped from these into the tanks on the steamer. The
+quantity of fresh water required at this port cost the steamship
+company, so the engineer informed us, a sum equal to four hundred
+dollars. Also great quantities of fresh fruits and vegetables were
+received on board, one of the most welcome things thus added to our
+bountiful bill of fare being the tender green artichoke which in Algiers
+grows to perfection.
+
+On Thursday afternoon a reception was held on the Moltke and our band
+gave a most enjoyable musical program for the occasion. Hundreds of well
+dressed, courteous French ladies, gentlemen, and children, and some
+French officials in uniforms, came on board to visit the vessel which
+was thrown wide open for their examination. Some of the officers of the
+naval vessels also came to the reception and extended a cordial
+invitation to the tourists to visit the gunboats. This invitation was
+accepted by some who were willing to spare the time for that purpose.
+
+[Illustration: A STREET IN OLD ALGIERS.]
+
+"Less than one hundred years ago Algiers was a country of pirates," said
+one of the officers to a group of tourists, "and Algerine corsairs
+flying the black flag infested the Mediterranean coast. Like birds of
+prey they pounced upon the merchant vessels of other nations,
+confiscating the cargoes, seizing seamen and passengers, and burning the
+ships. They cast thousands of captives into dungeons and demanded heavy
+ransoms for their release. They sent many thousands to the markets to be
+sold,--the men to be degraded to slavery, the women, praying for death,
+to be dragged away to harems of their purchasers. Among the captives
+held for ransom were many Americans. But you are familiar with all this
+ancient history."
+
+"No, we are not," replied one of the ladies; "I may have read it but if
+so, it has slipped from my mind. Why, we have gone about the city
+feeling as safe and secure from harm and insult as we did in our home
+cities."
+
+"And you were as safe in Algiers during the day time as you would be in
+Paris, London, or New York. I should advise you, though, to keep off the
+streets of this and all Oriental cities after nightfall. We may be proud
+to remember that the United States was one of the first countries to
+stop paying ransoms and to administer a salutary reproof. In June of the
+year 1815 our Commodore Decatur sailed into this harbor and sent a
+message to the Dey of Algiers demanding the release of all Americans
+then held in captivity, threatening to bombard the city if the prisoners
+were not set free. The Dey after some demur yielded through fear of
+bombardment and liberated all the Americans; but sent a message to the
+Commodore requesting that a tribute in the shape of powder be given him
+in exchange for the captives. 'If the Dey wants powder, he must take the
+balls with it,' Decatur bravely replied. After that the merchant vessels
+flying the American flag were not molested. The great destruction of
+ships and the capture of Europeans continued until France, highly
+exasperated, determined that it must be stopped, and the Moors punished.
+An expedition was sent to Algiers and the country was conquered in the
+year 1830, since then Algiers has been a French colonial possession."
+
+Just as the sun was dropping below the horizon filling the air with a
+golden light, the anchor was slowly raised. A number of the French
+people who had been visitors to the Molkte were in a steam launch near
+by waiting to see our departure.
+
+[Illustration: LED THROUGH A TROPICAL, TANGLED GROWTH.]
+
+"Adieu," "Adieu," "Bon voyage," were the parting salutations, as the
+French ladies waved handkerchiefs and the French men raised their hats.
+
+As the warships were passed, "Three cheers for the Red, White, and Blue"
+were given with a will amid waving hats, handkerchiefs, and small flags,
+and our greeting was answered by the lowering and raising of the Stars
+and Stripes on board the warships. Then our great ship steamed slowly
+out of the harbor, passing the forts which at the extremities of the
+moles guarded the entrance, and the lighthouse whose strong, steady
+light was just beginning to shine.
+
+As we entered the open sea we looked back with regret at the scene of
+beauty behind us. Vessels flying flags of many nationalities lay at
+anchor in the harbor or at the piers. Above the handsome white stone
+docks on the sloping hillside rose the clean-looking white city. On the
+hill to the right far away in bold relief stood the Church of our Lady
+of Africa. To the left, as far as the eye could reach, along the shore
+of the bay beyond the city, were clusters of Moorish houses, white
+villages, and green plains, and on the heights above, white villas and
+hotels in the midst of green foliage. In the distance rose a range of
+high hills, and far beyond the gray peaks of the Atlas Mountains bounded
+the horizon.
+
+No picturing of that scene can show the beauty of the view there
+presented to our eyes. But he who has visited Algiers will never forget
+the soft harmonizing colors of blue sky, white and yellow buildings,
+green foliage, and gray background.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+THE ISLAND OF MALTA.
+
+
+Among the tourists were twenty-one Knights Templar. These Knights took a
+special interest in the history of the island of Malta and the romantic
+story of the Knights of St. John. For the benefit of those who desired
+the information, a lecture on Malta was delivered by a member of our
+party who was familiar with the subject.
+
+"Know something of the history of the island," advised the lecturer,
+"and you will appreciate and enjoy what you see there more highly than
+you would without that knowledge. In the fortifications, the palaces,
+the churches, of this island you will find many memorials of the Knights
+of Malta, and it may add to your pleasure to hear something about the
+famous warrior-monks before visiting these places."
+
+Many of his hearers, taking the advice, made notes of the story as
+related by him.
+
+"About one thousand years ago," he said, "the Order of the Knights
+Hospitallers was organized at Jerusalem, by Italians. Its members took
+vows of fraternity, chastity, and poverty. The purpose of the Order was
+to erect hospices for the shelter of pilgrims who came to visit the Holy
+Sepulchre at Jerusalem, and hospitals in which to care for the pilgrims
+when sick. During many years of faithful service the work of the
+Hospitallers was supported by contributions from all Christendom; but
+when the oppression of the Turks became unendurable, the Knights took
+upon themselves vows to fight in defense of the Christian faith, and the
+religious brotherhood became a band of saintly warriors. This band
+during the time of the Crusades grew into a great military order known
+as the 'Knights of St. John.' In the battles of the Crusades, the
+Knights, fighting against the infidels for the possession of the Holy
+Land, became renowned for great personal strength, dauntless courage,
+and daring heroism.
+
+[Illustration: THE HARBOR IS SURROUNDED BY OLD GRAY FORTRESSES.]
+
+"After the failure of the Crusades, the Knights were expelled from
+Palestine by the victorious Saracens, and, twenty years later, were
+driven from the near-by island of Cyprus. Fleeing to the island of
+Rhodes, they there enjoyed two centuries of power and increasing
+prosperity, during which time the banner of the cross remained
+victorious over warring Turks, Greeks, and pirates. Then at the end of
+this period came the memorable siege of Rhodes. For six months the
+steel-clad cavaliers withstood the assaults of the Ottoman hosts, and
+their ponderous battle axes swept down the infidel assailers by scores.
+Personal strength, however, could not endure the continual strain. The
+besieged, utterly worn out, were compelled to capitulate and leave
+Rhodes; but as a compliment to their valor, they were permitted by the
+Sultan to depart in honor, taking with them all movable property and
+treasure.
+
+"In the year 1530, the Knights of St. John found a refuge on the island
+of Malta. They grew in numbers and importance, fortified the island, and
+resumed the warfare against their hereditary foes. Success at sea and
+on land resulted in the capture of richly laden prizes, multitudes of
+captives, and booty of enormous value. The captives became slaves
+laboring on the fortifications or straining at the oars. The booty
+adorned the churches and enriched the people. But as power and wealth
+increased, the desire for spoils took possession of the hearts of the
+Knights and the original vows of humility, kindness, and charity were
+forgotten. They became proud and boastful seekers of plunder and
+believed themselves to be invincible. Their enemies called them pirates.
+
+"In 1565 their numbers were greatly reduced during a noted siege by the
+Sultan of Turkey. Then fortune smiled or frowned on them in varying
+moods for many years, whose story is filled with romance and interest.
+In 1798 the island of Malta, after having been for nearly three
+centuries in the possession of the Knights of St. John, was captured by
+an invading French force, and two years later it became, by conquest, an
+English possession.
+
+"The fortifications have since then been strengthened and equipped with
+modern armaments, so that the island is now considered an impregnable
+stronghold. Here, as at Gibraltar, an army is stationed in the barracks,
+and great quantities of provisions are kept in store to supply the
+garrison in case of siege. The harbor of Valetta is deep and safe, and
+the narrow entrance is commanded by three strong fortresses. Here is the
+headquarters of the Mediterranean fleet of the British navy. Here, also,
+are great repair docks, a coaling station where huge stocks of coal are
+kept on hand, and warehouses filled with naval supplies.
+
+[Illustration: MALTESE WOMEN WEAR PECULIAR BONNETS.]
+
+"The island is densely populated, the number of people to the square
+mile being four times greater than in England. The city of Valetta, the
+capital of Malta, named after the Grand Master, Jean de La Vallette, by
+whom it was founded in the sixteenth century, stands high above the
+water on a commanding promontory."
+
+"In this condensed account," said the lecturer in conclusion, "I have
+tried to give you a few of the main facts relating to the Knights and
+the island. Those of you who are interested in the romantic history may
+read it more fully when you have leisure after your return home."
+
+The Moltke cast anchor in the harbor of Valetta about six o'clock on the
+morning of the twenty-first of February. After we had partaken of an
+early breakfast, Maltese boatmen in scarlet caps and sashes, who stood
+up while handling their oars, rowed us to the shore. Their brightly
+painted boats had peculiar carved wooden posts erected at prow and stern
+and white awnings overhead. Walking up a sloping, zigzag pathway,
+constructed in a passage cut down through the high cliffs, we ascended
+from the busy docks to the heights above. At the summit a Maltese
+gentleman kindly directed us on our way to the Queen's Garden located
+directly above the landing place.
+
+From the parapets of this place a magnificent and interesting view of
+the harbor was obtained. Not far away, but hundreds of feet below us,
+the Moltke lay, encircled by the white awning-covered boats. Eight large
+battleships and a dozen cruisers and gunboats, all painted black, were
+lying peacefully at anchor. Steamships and sailing vessels at the docks
+were discharging cargoes, or were lying in the bay awaiting their turn
+to unload. Steam launches were busily flying from one point to another,
+and little ferry boats were constantly crossing and re-crossing the bay.
+The harbor was surrounded by high cliffs and old gray fortifications.
+At the entrance to the bay stood a tall lighthouse and a frowning
+fortress, the one for guidance, the other for protection. Through the
+entrance a ship with spread sails was entering, and beyond, the sunlight
+shone on the beautiful blue waters of the Mediterranean.
+
+[Illustration: ATTRACTIVE STORES LINE THE "STRADA REALE."]
+
+The streets of Valetta were full of life that day. In reply to inquiries
+we were informed that on the following day, the Sunday preceding Lent, a
+festa, or carnival, lasting three days, would begin. During the festa,
+business would be suspended, and the people, disguised in masks and
+fanciful costumes, would engage in most ludicrous and extraordinary
+antics and play all manner of practical jokes on one another, showering
+the passers-by gently with confetti and flowers, or pelting them
+stingingly with dried peas and beans. Many children, impatient for the
+morrow to come, were already parading the streets arrayed in their
+costumes.
+
+Attractive stores line the "Strada Reale," the main shopping street. In
+these stores laces, gold and silver filagree work, jewelry, and
+embroidered muslins were the principal wares sought by the tourists. The
+ladies of our party were particularly anxious to secure pieces of
+Maltese lace, a special hand-made product noted for the excellence of
+its quality, the making of which gives employment to thousands of the
+inhabitants. In trading with the Maltese merchants, we soon found that
+the prices asked by the dealers were about twice the amount the customer
+was expected to pay, and that bargaining was as necessary in Malta as in
+Algiers.
+
+Almost all the costumes we saw on the streets were of the English style,
+but the varied uniforms of soldiers and the distinctive garments of
+Greeks, Turks, Spaniards, and Arabs added color and interest to the
+scene. The Maltese women wear immense bonnets, called faldettas. These
+peculiar bonnets have long skirts which reach to the waist and are
+totally black without color or ornament. As the majority of the
+inhabitants are Roman Catholics, we saw many priests and monks who wore
+black robes and very broad-brimmed black hats turned up at the sides.
+
+The Maltese are lovers of flowers, which are raised in profusion. At the
+corners of the principal streets were small fanciful buildings, a few
+feet in diameter, in which dark eyed brunettes offered flowers and
+bonbons for sale. The people also love music. In the Opera House, an
+elaborate structure, which, we were told, cost a quarter of a million
+dollars, Grand Opera is given three times a week for six months in the
+year.
+
+We visited the old church of St. John, which was built three centuries
+ago and lavishly adorned out of the proceeds of plunder that had been
+taken from infidels and pirates. The tower above the church contains a
+chime of ten bells, and the clock on the tower has a triple face, one
+face showing the hour of the day, one showing the day of the week, and
+the third, the day of the month. The heavy doors were open, but a
+curtain of matting hung over the entrance. A ragged, barefoot boy ran
+before us, and, drawing aside the matting that we might enter, extended
+his hand for a penny. We walked over the beautiful inlaid mosaic marble
+floor, and beheld handsomely painted ceilings with life-size figures
+overhead, and richly decorated walls and pillars around us. A priest
+with pride pointed out the famous paintings on the walls, the bronze and
+the marble statues around the sides, and, in the various chapels, the
+three huge iron keys which opened the gates of Jerusalem, Acre, and
+Rhodes, and the gates of solid silver in front of the richly decorated
+altar. As we stood before the silver gates our guide told us his little
+story:
+
+"When the French captured Malta in 1798 they carried away as booty the
+most valuable possessions of the church in the form of precious jewels,
+silver statues, golden vessels, valuable vestments, and works of art.
+The Emperor Napoleon with his own hand took a most valuable diamond
+from the finger of the jeweled glove which covered the sacred relic, the
+hand of St. John, and placed it on his own finger. The Emperor also took
+the diamond mounted sword, which had been carried by Valette, and
+buckled it to his side. These silver gates, too, would have been carried
+away but for the forethought of a priest who painted them black and so
+concealed their value."
+
+[Illustration: THE STREETS OF VALETTA WERE FULL OF LIFE THAT DAY
+PRECEDING THE FESTA.]
+
+In the nave of this church we tramped over hundreds of marble slabs
+which have been placed among the mosaics in the floor as memorials of
+the knights and nobles who are buried underneath. These flat tombstones
+are adorned with representations of coats-of-arms, musical instruments,
+angels, crowns, palms, skeletons, and other odd devices. But in the
+crypt underneath, whither we were next conducted, majestic monuments of
+elaborate design mark the resting places of the most noted Grand Masters
+of the Order, the tomb of Grand Master Cottoner being one of the most
+imposing. In the sacristy we gazed at, but were not permitted to touch,
+the beautifully illuminated missals, the finely woven pieces of ancient
+embroidery, and the splendid robes of former Grand Masters.
+
+"The tapestry of the Lord's Supper and many other wonderful tapestries
+are locked in that chamber," said the priest, pointing to a closed door,
+"and are only exhibited in June each year."
+
+At one of the altars in a side chapel worshipers knelt before a piece of
+the true cross; but the relics regarded as most precious in the custody
+of the Church of St. John, a thorn from the Savior's crown, portions of
+the bones of three apostles, one of the stones cast at St. Stephen, the
+right foot of Lazarus, and a fragment of the cradle of the infant Jesus,
+are guarded with great care and rarely exposed to the gaze of curious
+eyes.
+
+In the Governor's Palace the tourists spent a short time. The walls of
+the Council Chamber are hung with rare tapestry which has retained its
+color and beauty for nearly three centuries. The dining room and
+corridors are decorated with paintings of grim-faced Grand Masters of
+the past; and the gorgeous ball room contains a throne on which these
+same rulers sat in state surrounded by pomp and splendor. In the great
+hall of the Armory are rows of figures clad in the antique armor worn by
+the Knights, together with steel gloves, helmets, and coats of mail,
+inlaid with gold and silver; and around this hall are arranged the
+crossbows, arquebuses, spears, pikes, swords, battle axes, and old
+battle flags. There with the treasures are the old silver trumpet that
+sounded the retreat from Rhodes, and the faded parchment manuscript, or
+Papal edict, which sanctioned the gift of the island by Charles V. of
+Germany to the Knights; and among the trophies are the jeweled coat of
+mail and weapons of a famous Algerine corsair, a cannon curiously
+constructed of a copper tube wound with tarred rope, and many torn and
+blood-stained, crescent-mounted standards which in the hand-to-hand
+conflicts had been captured from the Turks.
+
+"What soldier of the present day could march or even ride any distance
+so encumbered with steel?" remarked one of the tourists as we stood
+before an emblazoned suit of mail that had been worn by one of the
+Grand Masters of the Knights. "To handle these heavy battle axes or long
+spears for stroke after stroke or thrust after thrust during the long
+hours the battle raged must have required muscles of steel and wonderful
+powers of endurance."
+
+[Illustration: THE CLOCK ABOVE THE ANCIENT CHURCH HAS A TRIPLE FACE.]
+
+"These breastplates and helmets and shields, which were worn by the
+Knights to protect them from the arrows and spears of their enemies,"
+said one of the ladies, as she looked at the old armor, "enable me to
+understand better what St. Paul meant when he wrote to the Ephesians:
+'Put on the whole armor of God that you may be able to stand against the
+wiles of the devil,' and 'all the fiery darts of the wicked.' The old
+monk-soldiers must have interpreted that command literally when they
+went out to fight the infidels."
+
+After completing our sight-seeing in the city of Valetta, a little train
+of cars on a narrow-gauge railroad carried us a distance of six miles to
+the older city of Citta Vecchia. The land along the way as far as we
+could see was divided into small plots ranging from about half an acre
+to two acres in size. Each plot was surrounded by stone walls from six
+to ten feet in height, many of which were broken and dilapidated. We
+were told that, although the climate of the island is quite mild,
+violent winds frequently blow over it, and these walls were erected to
+protect the fig, orange, lemon, and other fruit trees from destruction.
+Protected from the high winds, these trees yield abundantly; and, in the
+fertile soil of these plots, two or three crops of vegetables are raised
+each year. Much of the land was rocky and uncultivated. Very few trees
+were seen and those were dwarfed. One species of evergreen tree, called
+the Carob, grew only ten feet in height, but spread to three times that
+in breadth. In some neglected spots the prickly pear grew in rank
+masses. The houses along the way, built of yellow or gray stone, had a
+weather-beaten look, and the yards around them were enclosed with high
+walls. The small square windows in the houses and the flat stone roofs
+with enclosing parapets reminded us of pictures of the houses in Bible
+stories.
+
+In Citta Vecchia the two principal attractions were the Cathedral of St.
+Paul and the Grotto of St. Paul. The Cathedral is said to be built on
+the site of the house of Publius, the governor of the island, who
+entertained and lodged St. Paul for three days after he was ship-wrecked
+on this island, which in the Bible is called Melita. The Grotto is said
+to have been occupied by St. Paul during his three months' stay on the
+island. About four miles from the Cathedral is the bay of St. Paul,
+where the apostle was wrecked while on his way to Rome. There is the
+little creek in which the sailors tried to guide the storm-tossed vessel
+and the shore to which they escaped "on boards and on broken pieces of
+the ship."
+
+In Citta Vecchia we were shown the mosaic pavement and the decorated
+frieze of an old Roman house supposed to be over two thousand years old,
+which had been uncovered at a considerable distance below the surface
+while an excavation was being made. Notwithstanding their age the old
+mosaic pavement and frieze were in good condition.
+
+An interesting day of sight-seeing closed with a drive in Valetta
+through the humbler part of the city and down a long inclined street
+which led to the docks. At nightfall as our steamship moved eastward the
+lights of Malta's stronghold gradually faded from our sight, but the
+gleam of its lighthouse followed us for many a mile.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII
+
+ATHENS AND THE ACROPOLIS.
+
+
+The sun was just appearing in the east as we approached the seaport of
+the Grecian capital.
+
+Through the mists of the dawning day we could make out dimly, ahead of
+us, only bleak bare hills. As the Moltke steamed through the straits we
+saw a lighthouse and a few buildings on the shore and over the low hill
+on our right the tops of masts; but when the vessel had entered through
+a narrow passage between the moles extending from either side, and had
+anchored in the centre of the well protected and commodious harbor of
+Piraeus, we gazed on a scene of animation and activity. The bay was
+filled with shipping and the shore lined with warehouses where the
+stevedores were already busily engaged in lading or discharging cargoes.
+On each side of the Moltke, little more than a stone's throw away, lay
+gray battleships, cruisers, torpedo boats, destroyers, and other naval
+craft.
+
+"What war vessels are those?" was the question asked eagerly by many
+passengers.
+
+"The white flag with the blue St. Andrew's cross floating over that
+warship is the Russian national emblem," patiently replied one of the
+officers of our steamer, "and so I conclude that these vessels compose
+the Russian Mediterranean squadron."
+
+A band on the flagship began to play and the Russian sailors in clean
+white suits were seen forming in lines on the decks of the vessels,
+evidently for inspection or morning roll-call. On the rigging above the
+sailors' heads, swaying in the breeze, were hundreds of white suits,
+washed and hung out to dry.
+
+[Illustration: HUNDREDS OF WHITE SUITS HUNG OUT TO DRY.]
+
+Soon fifty or more large row boats were plying around our steamer in
+readiness to convey us to the railroad station at the upper end of the
+harbor about a mile away. As we approached the shore in these boats we
+saw on the wharf at Piraeus a motley crowd of dirty-handed, bare-footed,
+ill-clothed men and boys. It seemed as if all the idle and vagabond
+population of the city had assembled to lounge lazily in the sun,
+hoping, perhaps, to obtain some small coins from the tourists during
+the transfer from boat to cars. If this was their hope they were
+disappointed. All arrangements for the welfare of the Moltke tourists
+had been carefully made in advance, and, as there was no baggage to be
+carried, the services of the dirty-handed men were not required.
+
+"Are these vagabonds and tramps the descendants of the noble Greeks whom
+we have honored all our lives?" sadly remarked a minister in our boat.
+"Can these be the offspring of the great orators who electrified their
+hearers, or of the famous architects and artists whose names are
+immortal? Are these swarthy-faced, plain-featured idlers the
+representatives of the Greek beauty of form and feature?"
+
+[Illustration: STRENGTH AND SIMPLICITY RATHER THAN BEAUTY.]
+
+In preparation for a visit to these historic shores we had filled our
+minds with tales of heroism and visions of the beautiful; now the sight
+of this bare-footed throng, so different from the pictures we had formed
+in our minds, was a severe shock to our imagination.
+
+"These vagabonds do not represent the Greek race," responded another who
+had traveled in that country before; "they are merely the dregs of the
+people, a class that may be found in any large city and especially in
+the seaports."
+
+The distance from Piraeus to the city of Athens is but five miles. From
+the windows of the little cars we could see that the valley through
+which we passed was a succession of well cultivated fields, vineyards,
+and gardens. A white road, almost parallel to the railroad, traversed
+the valley. Gray-green trees in the distance indicated a district of
+olive orchards.
+
+At a station on the outskirts of the city we left the train and followed
+an old guide to visit the Theseum, or Temple of Theseus, a large edifice
+built in simple Doric style. The plain columns and unadorned pediments
+express strength and simplicity rather than beauty. Notwithstanding the
+fact that twenty-four centuries have passed since its erection, this
+temple is noted as being the best preserved of all the ancient buildings
+of Greece. A short time, however, sufficed for a view of the plain
+exterior and an entrance into the gloomy interior.
+
+[Illustration: I. OVER THE RUINS OF THE ANCIENT CITY.]
+
+[Illustration: II. "THIS IS MARS HILL," SAID THE GUIDE.]
+
+Then proceeding along a fine modern road, built over the ruins of the
+ancient city, traces of which were seen in adjacent excavations, we
+passed, on our right, an open plateau on the rocks where an audience of
+eight or ten thousand might assemble. This was the Pynx of ancient
+times, a gathering place of the people. A flight of steps hewn in the
+stone at one side of this plateau leads up to a platform cut in the
+rock. From this rock, named the Platform of Demosthenes, great orators
+addressed the multitude, stirring their countrymen to deeds of valor.
+Beyond the Pynx, a cave with gates of rusty grated iron was pointed out
+as the prison in which the noble Socrates was incarcerated before being
+condemned to drink the fatal hemlock.
+
+[Illustration: ONCE THE MAGNIFICENT MARBLE STAIRCASE.]
+
+Farther up the slope the guide pointed to a small rock elevation on our
+left and said: "That is the Areopagus, or Mars Hill, from which the
+Apostle Paul made his appeal to the idolatrous Athenians. He probably
+ascended those sixteen steps that you see hewn in the rock. Where we are
+standing now, the people stood to listen. From that elevation Paul could
+view the avenues leading to the Acropolis, avenues adorned with statues
+in honor of gods and goddesses and famous heroes."
+
+[Illustration: IN HONOR OF NIKE, THE GODDESS OF VICTORY.]
+
+As we stood there, we could almost hear Paul's words:
+
+"Ye men of Athens, I perceive that in all things ye are too
+superstitious. For as I passed by, and beheld the gods that ye worship,
+I found an altar with this inscription, 'To the Unknown God.'--God
+dwelleth not in temples made with hands.--We ought not to think that
+the Godhead is like unto gold, or silver, or stone, graven by art and
+man's device." The altar to the unknown god to which Paul referred may
+have been one of the many altars within sight of the elevation on which
+he stood.
+
+After we left Mars Hill a few minutes' walk brought us to the foot of a
+long flight of ruined steps, at the top of which stood broken marble
+columns. Before us was the Acropolis, the highest point of the city, a
+rocky eminence with inaccessible cliffs on three sides. The only
+approach to its summit, which is about two hundred feet above the level
+of the modern city, is on the southwest side, being reached by the
+avenues we had followed up the gradual slope past Mars Hill.
+
+"On this height," said the guide, "the Athenians, during the reign of
+Pericles in the golden age of Greece, erected a temple to their patron
+deity, Minerva, the goddess of wisdom. And to this goddess, named also
+Athena, who, as they asserted, sprang from the brain of Jupiter a mature
+woman in complete armor, they looked for protection. For her they
+offered their choicest gifts, yet they did not neglect the multitude of
+other gods whom they feared to offend."
+
+The old guide was well informed, but his English was rather difficult to
+understand. He was interrupted a number of times until one of the
+tourists, a college professor, undertook the task of assisting him in
+the story.
+
+"These dilapidated stone steps," said the professor, "formed once the
+magnificent marble staircase that led to the gateway of the Acropolis.
+The staircase was seventy feet in width; in the centre was a sloping
+carriageway up which chariots could be driven. It was built by Pericles
+four hundred years before the Christian era. Statues of wonderful
+beauty, by famous sculptors, were arranged along the steps. At times of
+great rejoicing, as after a victory, triumphal processions ascended
+these flights to present offerings to the gods, or to deposit in the
+treasury of the temple the spoils taken from their enemies and to offer
+sacrifices and worship to their protecting goddess. The Propylaea, or
+grand entrance hall and gateway to the Acropolis, stood at the head of
+the stairway; these broken columns are all that remain of one of the
+most imposing structures of that golden age."
+
+[Illustration: GIGANTIC STATUES OF WOMEN UPHOLD THE CORNICE.]
+
+"Keep close to the professor and never mind the guide," urged one of our
+companions. We followed her suggestion.
+
+"This small building on our right with four graceful Ionic columns in
+front," continued the professor, "is the Temple of the Wingless Victory,
+so called because it was erected by the Athenians in honor of Nike, the
+goddess of Victory. The statue of Nike which they placed within the
+temple, bore in her hand the palm of victory and upheld the wreath of
+laurel, but lacked the customary wings. The Athenians hoped that without
+wings victory might never depart from the shores of Greece."
+
+"The building to our left," said the professor as we moved on, "was
+named the Erechtheum after the Attic hero Erechtheus, and once contained
+a seated figure of the goddess Athena. These six gigantic statues of
+women upholding the cornice of the porch are the Caryatides and deserve
+a careful examination; for, although carefully prepared casts of the
+Caryatides may be seen in some of the large museums, no cast can be a
+perfect representation of the original. One of these figures, as you may
+easily see, is only a copy, the original having been carried away to
+England by Lord Elgin and given to the British Museum. The marble
+columns on the other side of the Erechtheum are considered the best
+examples in existence of the Ionic style of architecture."
+
+[Illustration: ACROSS THE SUMMIT OF THE ACROPOLIS, TRAMPLING OVER
+FRAGMENTS OF DECORATIONS.]
+
+Near the Erechtheum we passed the foundation on which had stood a
+colossal bronze figure of Athena, sixty feet in height, holding in her
+hand a spear tipped with gold, the point of which could be seen by the
+ancient mariners far out at sea. Making our way across the summit of the
+Acropolis around pieces of broken columns, trampling over fragments of
+decorations, and passing foundations of missing statues, we stood in
+front of the Parthenon, the temple which had been erected to the patron
+deity of the Athenians. We thought that the professor might weary of
+answering questions, but he seemed glad to voice the thoughts that were
+arising in his mind.
+
+"In the harmonious proportions of this stately edifice," he said, "the
+peerless genius of the architect Ictinus, who designed the structure, is
+revealed, and in the delicate finish of the smallest details of the
+sculptured work, the wonderful skill of the artists who carried out the
+master's design is shown. We hardly know which to admire more, the
+matchless genius of the designer, or the marvelous skill of the artists.
+Our poet Emerson truly says:
+
+    "Earth proudly wears the Parthenon
+    As the best gem upon her throne."
+
+During a pause for critical examination of the front of the temple, the
+amateur photographers of the party placed their cameras in position.
+
+"Place a group of people in the foreground," suggested the professor.
+"You see that the marble steps are nearly two feet in height, and
+without some object for comparison, these steps in a picture will appear
+to be only of ordinary size, thus an adequate idea of the size of the
+temple will not be given. When you see any picture of the Parthenon
+notice the truth of my suggestion.
+
+"There were, as you see at this end now," continued our instructor,
+"eight white marble columns at each end and seventeen columns along each
+side. The columns on the sides are mostly broken now or altogether gone,
+and the color has changed from white to this soft golden yellow tint.
+The carved marble frieze, which, over five hundred feet in length,
+extended around the building, was the work of Phidias and has never been
+surpassed in beauty by any sculpture of the kind in the world. And these
+fluted columns are, in grace and proportion, the noblest examples of the
+Doric style of architecture."
+
+"But, in the interior," said the professor, becoming more enthusiastic,
+"surrounded by statues and works of art in marble, bronze, ebony, ivory,
+and gold, stood the crowning glory of the Parthenon, the famous
+colossal statue of the goddess Athena Parthenos, Athena the Virgin,
+forty feet in height, made of ivory and gold under the direction of
+Phidias. The Caryatides as we looked at them awhile ago appeared
+gigantic in size, but they are only eight feet in height. The height of
+the statue of Athena was equal to five Caryatides one above the other.
+Let me read you the description of the statue by an old Greek historian,
+Pausanias."
+
+The professor, drawing a note book from his pocket, read as follows:
+"The image itself is made of ivory and gold. Its helmet is surmounted in
+the middle by the figure of a sphinx, and on either side of the helmet
+are griffins wrought in relief. The image of Athena stands upright, clad
+in a garment that reaches to her feet; on her breast is the head of
+Medusa wrought in ivory. She holds a Victory about four cubits high in
+one hand, and in the other hand a spear. At her feet lies a shield, and
+near the spear is a serpent."
+
+"The Victory referred to by Pausanias," said the professor, replacing
+his note book, "was an image of the goddess of Victory half the height
+of the Caryatides, which we refer to for comparison. The size of the
+statue held in Athena's hand helps us to realize the height of the
+colossal figure."
+
+"The Parthenon contained also a treasury in which the Athenians
+deposited the immense treasures and spoils taken from their enemies. In
+the course of centuries, however, the growing wealth and power of Athens
+incurred the jealousy and wrath of other nations. The city was conquered
+and ravaged many times. The Persians ingloriously failed in their
+attempt, but the Romans, victorious under Nero, despoiled this temple
+and carried away hundreds of bronze statues and works of art to grace
+the Emperor's triumphal entry into Rome. Other Roman conquerors,
+following Nero's example, exhibited to the applauding multitudes in the
+streets of Rome long trains of spoils, consisting of the rarest
+paintings, ornaments, and bronzes torn from the Parthenon. Goths,
+Normans, Franks, Venetians, and Vandals successively plundered the city,
+stripping away the decorations of gold and silver from columns and
+walls, and breaking from their foundations the statues that adorned the
+plateau of the Acropolis. The Turks carried off shiploads of marble and
+bronzes to Constantinople. England also enriched the British Museum with
+many choice marbles from the Acropolis--to preserve them, Lord Elgin
+explained."
+
+[Illustration: A SHELL DESCENDED INTO THE PARTHENON, THE PRIDE OF
+CENTURIES LAY SHATTERED.]
+
+The professor paused for a moment and his hearers made use of the time
+to express some very decided opinions with reference to Lord Elgin.
+
+"But the culminating disaster to the Parthenon occurred in the year
+1687," continued the professor, resuming his story with as much sadness
+in his voice as if the disaster had been a personal loss. "Greece was
+then under the rule of the Sultan, and the Parthenon was used by his
+army as a powder magazine. The Venetians at war with the Turks,
+besieging Athens, bombarded the city. A shell descended into the
+Parthenon, and in a moment's time the most magnificent architectural
+structure of ancient times, the pride of centuries, lay shattered in the
+ruins we see before us."
+
+"The Parthenon in twenty-four centuries has seen many religious
+changes. Built first as a temple of idolatry, it became under the Romans
+a Roman Catholic Cathedral, under the Greeks again a Greek Christian
+Church, and then under the Sultan's rule a Mohammedan Mosque."
+
+[Illustration: THE PREDOMINATING COLOR OF THE CITY IS YELLOW.]
+
+The professor wished to apologize for detaining us with the length of
+his explanations but he was overwhelmed with expressions of appreciation
+for his kindness.
+
+[Illustration: THE THEATRE OF BACCHUS HAS TIERS OF STONE SEATS.]
+
+"Why," said one of the tourists, "we have sailed half way around the
+world to see these ruins, and yet some of us have so neglected history
+and mythology that, we are ashamed to say, our knowledge of the history
+of Greece and the stories of its heroes is extremely limited. I am
+indeed grateful and trust that you will be patient with our ignorance."
+
+[Illustration: THE FRONT OF THE STAGE CARVED WITH GROTESQUE FIGURES.]
+
+After walking through the small museum on the Acropolis where a number
+of interesting relics are on exhibition, we lingered awhile on a little
+platform at the northeast corner of the Acropolis from which an
+excellent view of the city may be obtained. As seen from this view-point
+the predominating color of the city is yellow. The buildings erected of
+stone, and plastered or frescoed, are white, or yellow, or light pink,
+or combinations of yellow and white, and the roofs appear to be covered
+with yellow tiles. Below us to the right we saw the ruined columns of
+the Temple of Jupiter, and the white palace and the royal gardens of the
+king. Across the valley beyond the city we could see the prominent steep
+rock named Lycabettus with the chapel of St. George on the summit, and
+ten miles away we could make out dimly Mt. Pentelicus, from which all
+the white marble for the temples was quarried, and Mt. Hymettus, in a
+region noted for the excellent quality of its honey.
+
+Descending from the heights of the Acropolis we entered the ruins of the
+Odeon of Herodus Atticus which lay at the base of the Acropolis. This
+theatre had a stone floor, a stone stage, and tiers of stone seats
+capable of seating an audience of six thousand, and was covered with a
+cedar roof. Now the roof is completely gone and the seats are in partial
+ruin. Beyond this smaller theatre are the ruins of a larger one called
+the Theatre of Bacchus. Here the masterpieces of Eschylus, Sophocles,
+Euripides, and Aristophanes, in the golden days of Grecian glory, gave
+delight to great audiences. This theatre, accommodating thirty thousand
+spectators, contained a semi-circle of marble seats built up against the
+cliff of the Acropolis, and was open to the sky. The large stage was
+built of marble and the front of it was carved with grotesque figures.
+The lower tiers of seats nearest the stage were marble chairs reserved
+for priests and other dignitaries. The names of the men who occupied the
+chairs were carved in the marble, and some of these names are yet
+visible. While resting for a short time in these official chairs, we
+tried to imagine that we were viewing on the marble stage the
+performance of an old Greek tragedy by actors in the graceful flowing
+robes of those ancient times. A few minutes later we were grouped at the
+side of the columns which are all that remain of the glory of the Temple
+of Jupiter.
+
+[Illustration: WE DROVE AROUND THE ROYAL GARDENS.]
+
+The professor, responding to our request for information, said: "The
+Olympieum was the Temple erected in honor of Zeus, the supreme deity of
+the Greeks. As the Roman name for the supreme deity was Jupiter or Jove,
+the temple was called the Temple of Zeus by the Greeks, and the Temple
+of Jupiter by the Romans. The Athenians began the construction of the
+edifice two centuries before the birth of Christ, but the work was
+interrupted by wars and lack of funds and remained unfinished for three
+hundred years. Then the Roman Emperor Hadrian, having conquered Greece,
+completed the work and claimed for himself all the honor and glory for
+the erection of the temple. The Temple of Zeus, next to that erected to
+Diana by the Ephesians, was the largest of the temples of antiquity. It
+was built in the Corinthian style of architecture and had a triple row
+of eight columns each at the ends, and a double row of twenty columns
+each at the sides. Now you see only these fifteen huge columns
+remaining. In the interior of the temple was a colossal statue of
+Jupiter overlaid with ivory and gold. Beside the statue of the god stood
+a companion figure of equal size representing the Emperor Hadrian. The
+grounds around the temple were filled by Hadrian with hundreds of
+statues, many of which represented himself."
+
+Carriages which had been ordered by the managers of the excursion
+awaited here to take us rapidly to other points of interest. As we
+crossed a bridge over a little stream on our way to the Stadium, the
+guide said: "This river appears small, perhaps, in your eyes, but it is
+great in the history and legends of Greece. It is the river Ilissus."
+
+"The Stadium," said the professor as we entered the structure, "is the
+immense athletic field of Athens. It was constructed about the year 350
+B.C. Five hundred years later the sixty tiers of seats capable of
+seating fifty thousand spectators were covered with white marble.
+Centuries afterwards in evil times athletic sports were neglected, the
+place fell into disuse, and the marble was converted into lime. In
+modern times the Stadium has been restored, perhaps not so large as
+before, and again the tiers of seats have been covered with white
+marble. In international athletic contests held in the restored Stadium,
+Americans have competed successfully for the laurel crown."
+
+[Illustration: THE TIERS OF SEATS HAVE BEEN COVERED WITH WHITE MARBLE.]
+
+Leaving the Stadium, we drove around the Royal Gardens through streets
+shaded by graceful pepper trees, caught glimpses of palms, orange, and
+ornamental trees within the gardens, and stopped a few minutes in front
+of the extensive white marble palace of the king. As we passed through
+the residential portion of the city we were impressed with the
+cleanliness of the well swept streets and with the purity of the soft
+creamy yellow and pink colorings of the buildings. Fortunately we saw no
+great manufacturing establishments belching forth volumes of blackening
+smoke to soil these delicate shades.
+
+We halted before the University, a majestic building occupying a block
+on a wide boulevard, and before the Academy of Science, another large
+white marble edifice adjoining the University, a building much more
+elaborate than its neighbor, with Ionic porticoes, a facade enlivened by
+bright coloring and gilding, and pediments adorned with statues.
+
+[Illustration: GREEK CHILDREN WERE GROUPED AROUND A PUNCH AND JUDY
+SHOW.]
+
+"What odd-looking costumes those men wear. They look like ballet girls
+arrayed for the stage," said one of the ladies in our carriage, pointing
+to a group on the sidewalk. The men wore tights, low shoes with pompons
+on the toes, black garters with tassels, blue jackets ornamented with
+many brass buttons, red skull caps with large black tassels, and very
+full skirts. The guide said that these men were soldiers of the king's
+guard and though their uniforms might appear peculiar to our eyes they
+did not seem more strange than the tartans of Scotch Highlanders were to
+the Greeks. The king's guard, he told us, is composed of men from the
+mountain regions of Greece, who dress in the ancient military costume of
+that section. The uniforms of the regular Greek soldiers are very
+similar to those worn by the soldiers of our own country. The officers
+we met were handsome men and especially well uniformed. The well-to-do
+and middle class Athenian people whom we saw on the streets were dressed
+in modern English style.
+
+[Illustration: BEFORE THE UNIVERSITY, A MAJESTIC BUILDING.]
+
+The National Archaeological Museum has a valuable collection of
+antiquities that would require much time for examination. Perhaps the
+most interesting to us were the old tombs from Mycenae with their
+resurrected contents of skeletons, gold masques, ornaments, and weapons;
+the reduced copy of the gold and ivory statue of Athena Parthenos; the
+marble figure of a man in stooping position lately found in the sea; the
+statue of the god Hermes; and the large and beautiful vases recovered
+from the excavations. On the vases scenes of ancient Greek life or
+legend were represented.
+
+"It was a pastoral scene of love-making carved on a Grecian vase that
+inspired the poet Keats to write his noted poem, 'Ode on a Grecian
+Urn,'" said one of our friends. "Let me tell you my favorite stanza,"
+and, with an eloquence that brought out their meaning, she repeated the
+beautiful lines:
+
+    Heard melodies are sweet, but those unheard
+      Are sweeter; therefore, ye soft pipes, play on;
+    Not to the sensual ear, but, more endear'd,
+      Pipe to the spirit ditties of no tone:
+    Fair youth, beneath the trees, thou canst not leave
+      Thy song, nor ever can those trees be bare;
+    Bold lover, never, never canst thou kiss,
+      Though winning near the goal--yet, do not grieve;
+    She cannot fade, though thou hast not thy bliss,
+      Forever wilt thou love, and she be fair!
+
+On both days while in Athens we lunched at one of the hotels facing
+Constitution Square and ate of the delicious honey from Mt. Hymettus,
+returning to the Moltke in the harbor in time to have a late dinner and
+to spend the night. In the public park in front of the hotel the trees
+were laden with oranges. Beyond the park through the green foliage could
+be seen the white palace of the king.
+
+While rambling through the streets we saw a funeral procession. First
+came many banners and symbols of the Greek Church, carried by church
+officials; then followed the casket borne by men, the casket open and
+the pale face of the dead exposed to the gaze of the onlookers; a man
+came next carrying the lid of the coffin filled with flowers; then
+priests in black robes, men and women in black, and girls in white
+holding wreaths and flowers. The people along the way removed their hats
+and crossed themselves, muttering prayers as the procession passed by.
+
+The modern religion of Greece is that of the Greek church, a religion of
+many ceremonies. The priests, long-haired, heavy-bearded men, wear long
+flowing black robes and black hats resembling our silk dress hats turned
+upside down with the brim at the top. They, the guide informed us, are
+men of influence; their hands are kissed by their people; their advice
+is sought, and their opinions received with deference by the members of
+their church.
+
+The stores for the sale of candles to be burned on ceremonial occasions
+made an interesting display. There were candles of all sizes, ranging
+from six feet in height, beautifully decorated, which only the wealthy
+could afford, down to the small unadorned dip that the smallest coin
+might purchase.
+
+"These candles," said the guide while we were pricing some of the
+decorated ones, "are used for the rejoicings at baptisms, at the
+festivities on wedding occasions, and for lightening the gloom around
+the caskets of the dead. They are given as penance to the church, or as
+votive offerings to brighten the altars of the Virgin or patron saints."
+
+Eikons, the sacred memorials which the Greek Christians hang in their
+homes, representing the Virgin Mary holding the infant Christ in her
+arms, were also for sale in great numbers. Some of these were merely
+painted boards or silvered or gilded metal; others were of expensive
+material, incrusted with jewels. In all the Eikons, either cheap or
+dear, the painted faces and heads of the Virgin and child were visible
+through openings in the metal or board.
+
+"At Easter time," said one of the dealers in ecclesiastical wares, "we
+sell thousands of candles for the great midnight celebration of the
+lighting of the candles. Just as the Easter day is ushered in, the
+Patriarch from his platform makes the announcement, 'Christ is risen.'
+The people repeat it over and over, the candles are lighted, then raised
+and lowered three times in honor of the Trinity, and we return to our
+homes to break the three days' fast by a feast of rejoicing."
+
+[Illustration: AND BLUE JACKET ORNAMENTED WITH MANY BRASS BUTTONS.]
+
+When returning from the wharf to the steamer in the evening some of the
+tourists were conveyed in a tug and others in row boats. The oarsmen to
+save the labor of rowing cast their lines to the tug and the dancing of
+the little boats on the waves as they were drawn swiftly down the bay in
+the wake of the larger craft caused some anxiety on the part of the more
+timid of the occupants.
+
+[Illustration: SOME IN A TUG AND OTHERS IN ROWBOATS.]
+
+On the evening of Tuesday, the twenty-fourth of February, just as the
+silver-toned bells on the Russian warships were telling the hour of
+five, the anchor of the Moltke was drawn up and the vessel almost
+imperceptibly moved around and headed for the narrow outlet between the
+breakwaters. As we slowly steamed away from the Russian vessels, our
+band played the Russian national hymn and the Russian flag was elevated
+to the top of the Moltke's mast in a farewell salutation. Immediately
+the crowds of Russian sailors on the warships removed their hats and
+remained bareheaded until the music ceased. Then, in response, the
+Russian band played our national hymn, and as we sailed away, the
+strains of the music became fainter and fainter until they died away in
+the distance.
+
+Looking backward after leaving the harbor we saw clearly defined, in the
+golden evening light, the towering Acropolis and the Parthenon crowning
+its summit, and, as we sailed away from the city which was once the
+centre of culture, refinement, and wealth, we tried to recall the
+stories of her glorious past. The figures of legend, myth, and
+history,--mighty warriors, celebrated heroes, eloquent orators,
+illustrious painters, renowned architects, great historians, immortal
+poets, and wonderful deities; Spartan mothers, Thermopylae defenders, and
+Persian invaders; beautiful Helen, muscular Hercules, crusty Diogenes,
+deformed AEsop, silver-tongued Demosthenes, fleet-footed Mercury, drunken
+Silenus, stately Juno, and lovely Venus,--a confused procession of
+mortals and immortals rushed across the brain.
+
+"Look," said the professor with note book in hand interrupting our
+dreams of the past, "that strait to the left behind us is the entrance
+to the bay of Salamis where the Persian fleet of one thousand sail
+encountered the smaller fleet of only three hundred Grecian vessels in
+the year 480 B.C. The rocky brow of the hill on the farther side of the
+strait is the place where the haughty Xerxes sat in his silver-footed
+chair to gloat over the expected annihilation of Greek power. I want to
+read to you, before we go to our evening meal, the vivid description of
+the conflict from the tragedy of 'The Persians.' It was written by the
+poet Eschylus, who himself was one of the heroes in the fight."
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII.
+
+CONSTANTINOPLE AND SANTA SOPHIA.
+
+
+On Wednesday morning, February twenty-fifth, the ladies donned winter
+wraps and the gentlemen heavy overcoats for their morning promenades on
+deck. All night the Moltke had steamed northward and the region of palms
+and orange trees had been left behind. By referring to the large atlas
+of the world in the library, we found that we were in the same latitude
+as that of New York City.
+
+As we approached the entrance to the Strait of Dardanelles, the ancient
+Hellespont, which connects the AEgean Sea with the Sea of Marmora, the
+Turkish fortifications crowning the hills on both sides of the channel
+were plainly visible. Under the great guns of the fortresses the Moltke
+anchored.
+
+"Why do we stop here?" inquired one of the tourists of the surgeon, who
+was standing near watching the shore.
+
+"This is the quarantine station," replied the doctor, "and we must wait
+here for the official inspection. According to Turkish regulations, the
+passage of foreign warships through the Dardanelles is absolutely
+prohibited at any time and merchant vessels are not allowed to enter
+during the night. Every vessel arriving here must undergo inspection
+before receiving a permit to proceed. The Sultan guards this gateway to
+the most vulnerable part of his dominion, not only to prevent the
+entrance of a hostile fleet, but to protect his people from the
+incursions of that insidious foe, the plague, which sometimes ravages
+the Eastern countries. There come the officials now in response to our
+signals," he added as a yacht steamed out from the shore. "I must go
+with the captain to welcome them at the head of the gangway."
+
+[Illustration: I. WITHIN SIGHT OF DOMES AND MINARETS.]
+
+[Illustration: II. FAMOUS ST. SOPHIA HAS FOUR MINARETS.]
+
+The Turkish quarantine physician in red fez and handsome fur overcoat,
+accompanied by his assistants and the inspector, came on board. Madam
+Rumor whispers that a good sized tip sometimes obviates tedious personal
+examinations and insures prompt issuance of a clean bill of health
+without exasperating delays. However it was, the quarantine physician,
+after consulting with the ship physician, quickly found the health
+conditions satisfactory, and the inspector of cargoes granted his
+permit. The pilot who was to guide the vessel through the swiftly
+flowing current of the Hellespont joined us here, and with him came the
+dragoman or chief guide who had been engaged by the managers to take
+special charge of the sight-seeing excursions of our party while in
+Constantinople.
+
+Proceeding slowly on our way, we noticed half a dozen Turkish warships
+lying in the stream near by. One who claimed to know said that the
+Turkish naval vessels had been gathering barnacles and mussels for four
+years and were unfit for active service. But the fortresses guarding the
+strait, he said, were in excellent condition and well equipped with
+batteries of modern make.
+
+The Strait of Dardanelles, for a distance of forty miles separating the
+continent of Asia from that of Europe, varies in width, narrowing to
+less than one mile at some places and broadening out to four miles at
+others. By referring to the steamer's atlas, consulting guide books,
+exchanging historical knowledge, and questioning good-natured officials,
+the tourists obtained information about the various points of interest
+that they were passing. Beyond the entrance, at the narrowest point of
+the strait, the place was pointed out where the Persian king Xerxes with
+his vast army crossed the channel on a bridge of boats for the invasion
+of Europe in the year 480 B.C.
+
+"Little then," remarked a tourist, "did that imperious invader dream
+that within a year, in humiliation and defeat, and with only a poor
+remnant of that great army, he would recross that strait to Asia again."
+
+At the same place in the channel, we were informed, Alexander the Great
+with his Greek legions crossed from Europe in the year 334 B.C. and
+continued his victorious march until all the then known portion of Asia
+was subdued to his rule.
+
+"Then," said another tourist, "when flushed with victory, he wept for
+other worlds to conquer. To me the saddest part of Alexander's history
+is that he was himself conquered by his own appetite and never returned
+to his native shore."
+
+Another tragic tale connected with that place is the story of Hero and
+Leander. Across that mile of swiftly flowing current, the story says,
+Leander nightly swam from Abydos to the tower on the opposite shore to
+visit his beloved Hero, the priestess of Venus. In one of his nightly
+excursions the swimmer was drowned in a storm, and Hero, after hearing
+of Leander's death, despairingly threw herself into the sea to share his
+sad fate.
+
+"There is the height from which Hero cast herself," said an official,
+"and this is the place where Lord Byron, in emulation of Leander,
+performed the same difficult feat of swimming the channel."
+
+To the right, on the Asian shore not far away, was the plain of Troy
+where Dr. Schlieman won fame by making the excavations and discoveries
+which led to the location of the lost city of Troy. In this ancient city
+of Troy, according to Homer, the beautiful Grecian princess Helen,
+abducted by Paris, the son of the King of Troy, was detained for ten
+years. The enraged Greeks under Ulysses and Ajax, seeking to rescue the
+princess, besieged the city and finally succeeded in entering its gates
+and accomplishing their purpose by means of the stratagem of a huge
+wooden horse.
+
+After sailing through the length of the Sea of Marmora, about one
+hundred and ten miles, we arrived at five o'clock in the evening within
+sight of the domes and minarets that crown the promontory at the
+entrance to the Strait of Bosporus. From the time we caught our first
+glimpse of a distant minaret, until the anchor of our steamer was
+dropped in the channel, every tourist was intent on the picturesque
+views which presented themselves. While the Moltke was steadily moving
+onward and our point of view continually changing, the dragoman at
+intervals pointed out the various places of interest, now on one side,
+now on the other.
+
+[Illustration: IS CALLED SERAGLIO POINT.]
+
+"The Strait of Bosporus, which we are now approaching, is here a little
+over a mile in width," said he. "The part of the city you see on the
+headland on the north shore of the Strait is the oldest part of
+Constantinople, and is called Stamboul. It is occupied principally by
+Turks, Greeks, Armenians, and Jews. The most celebrated mosques, and
+also the great bazaars in which tourists delight to wander, are in
+Stamboul."
+
+"That dome with six minarets surrounding it, partially hidden by the
+intervening trees and buildings, is the Mosque of Ahmed, one of the most
+interesting in the city. Beyond it you can see the dome and four
+minarets of the more famous St. Sophia. The name of this is probably
+familiar to you, for almost every visitor whom I have escorted has told
+me that he had heard of the Mosque of St. Sophia."
+
+"And that is Scutari," he continued, calling our attention to the city
+on the Asiatic shore of the strait. "The great square yellow building so
+prominent on that side is the military barracks. The large structure
+nearer us is the military hospital where the English lady nursed the
+soldiers during the war with Russia fifty years ago. Perhaps you have
+heard of the lady?"
+
+We informed the dragoman that the noble work of Florence Nightingale
+during the Crimean war was well known to the American people, and her
+name held in high honor by them.
+
+"The point beyond us on the left," said the guide a few minutes later,
+"is called Seraglio Point. The portion of the city on the promontory,
+extending along the Bosporus, is about one mile in length and half a
+mile in width and is called the Seraglio. In these extensive grounds
+are the well guarded Treasury buildings containing the accumulated
+treasures of centuries, the Imperial Museum of Antiquities, and many
+other public edifices. There also are the palaces, kiosks, and gardens,
+which were occupied by the Sultans and their families until the present
+Sultan changed his residence to another part of the city.
+
+"The stream of water to our left," he added as our steamer rounded
+Seraglio Point, "is called the Golden Horn, so named on account of its
+curved shape. This inlet of the Bosporus, not over one-third of a mile
+in width, separates the older Stamboul from old Galata and newer Pera.
+Over the two bridges across this inlet streams of people pass
+constantly. Galata is the business section of the city which includes
+the wharves, steamship offices, and wholesale establishments. Pera,
+situated on the heights above Galata, contains the residences of the
+wealthier class, as well as hotels, modern stores, and the residences of
+the ambassadors and consuls."
+
+After passing the mouth of the Golden Horn, the Moltke slackened speed
+and anchored in the Bosporus apposite Galata, a little way from the
+shore. Prominent on the shore at the water's edge, not far from our
+anchorage, stood a small but beautiful white mosque with delicate
+minarets, and just beyond it a snow white palace of magnificent size.
+
+"The white marble building that you see extending for some distance
+along the Bosporus," said the guide, "is the Dolmah Bagcheh Palace of
+the Sultan, one of the magnificent palaces which he does not occupy.
+Once or twice a year he holds a reception there. In the distance along
+the water is the Cheraghan Palace where the imprisoned ex-Sultan Murad,
+the elder brother of the present Sultan, for many years had every luxury
+but liberty. And on the heights just beyond those grounds is Yildiz
+Kiosk, the palace where now lives the present ruler of Turkey, his
+Imperial Majesty, Sultan Abdul Hamid. Strangers are not permitted to
+enter its gates, but we have obtained his Imperial Majesty's permission
+to take your party through the Dolmah Bagcheh Palace."
+
+[Illustration: THE BREAD DEALERS CONSENTED TO BE KODAKED.]
+
+Our steamer had barely anchored when a steam yacht flying the emblem of
+Turkey, a red flag with a white crescent and star, appeared alongside.
+Several red-fezzed Turkish officials, on whose green frock coats dangled
+medals and badges, mounted the stairway to receive the report of the
+vessel and examine and vise the passports of the passengers. The
+stewards collected the passports and handed them to the Sultan's
+officers, who afterwards returned them stamped in queer-looking
+characters with the official seal of the Turkish government.
+
+"Captain, can you not send us ashore?" requested some of the tourists
+after the evening dinner was over.
+
+"I would gladly send you ashore if I considered it safe for you to go,"
+replied the Captain, "but I advise you to remain on board. There is
+little to be seen after sunset in this unlighted city. Although the
+principal streets are lighted with gas, many of the streets depend upon
+the moon and stars and so on cloudy nights are left in utter darkness.
+Strangers may with safety wander around the city during the day, but it
+is dangerous for them to do so at night. The lower part of the city
+along the wharves is infested with thieves who have little regard for
+the life of an infidel, and who under cover of darkness would cut one's
+throat and cast the body into the stream in order to secure a few
+valuables."
+
+The Captain's advice was taken and the evening was delightfully spent on
+the vessel. The American Consul and his wife came on board to meet some
+friends and to welcome all the Americans. Then, according to a plan
+which had been made by the managers of the tour, a resident of the city
+delivered an instructive address on the history of Constantinople. The
+lecturer told of Constantine the Great, first Christian emperor and
+founder of the city; of Justinian, the imperial legislator and builder,
+and his empress Theodora, the beautiful comedian who became a queen; of
+the heroic warrior Belisarius and his emperor's ingratitude; of the
+Greek girl Irene who rose to supreme power; of the bloody religious
+riots and theological disputes; of the Nicene Council and adoption of
+the Nicene creed; and of the pillage of Constantinople by the ruthless
+Crusaders. He told also of the marriage ceremonies, of the art and
+commerce, and of the places of interest about the city. His remarks
+about the former trade and literature of the city were most interesting.
+
+"During the earlier centuries of the Eastern Roman Empire," said the
+lecturer, "Constantinople, the capital, was a great centre of trade, an
+exchange market for the products of the world. Caravans brought the
+treasures of the East to the storehouses here to be bartered for the
+cargoes of produce which came in ships from the West. This exchange
+brought wealth and prosperity to the city. In later centuries the
+Venetians and Genoese succeeded in transferring much of this business to
+Venice and Genoa and the trade of Constantinople declined. In modern
+days steamships and the Suez canal have completely changed the route of
+commerce.
+
+"Constantinople, not only was a centre of trade, but in the Twelfth and
+Thirteenth centuries it was the centre of literature. During the dark
+ages, when the study of literature was generally neglected in other
+places, the lamp of learning burned brightly in this city. Libraries
+were established and manuscripts accumulated; but at the time of the
+Turkish invasion a multitude of the most valuable documents were
+destroyed. When the Renaissance brought new life to the western shores,
+the centre of literature moved to Italy, and printed books took the
+place of manuscripts."
+
+[Illustration: OUR CARRIAGES RATTLED OVER THE PLANK BRIDGE.]
+
+When we thought of the present standing of Turkey among the nations of
+the world, it was difficult to realize that for centuries Constantinople
+was the commercial centre and the brilliant capital of the world. It was
+even more difficult to realize that the country which now prohibits the
+importation of foreign books and papers was at one time the patron of
+art, literature, and learning, the collector of great libraries of
+illuminated manuscripts, theological discourses, and legal documents.
+But that was centuries ago.
+
+Thursday morning ushered in a bright, clear, cool day. We were up early,
+eager for sight-seeing, and little boats soon carried us to the custom
+house pier on the Galata side. Open carriages drawn by wiry Turkish
+horses and driven by Turkish drivers were there in readiness to carry us
+across the Golden Horn to explore the sights of Stamboul. As our
+carriages rattled over the plank pontoon bridge with its drawbridge in
+the center, we passed through a crowd of people more varied as to
+nationality and costume than can be seen at almost any other place on
+the globe. The Turks, of course, predominated, their nationality being
+indicated by the national head-gear,--the red fez. The wealthier Turks
+wore the English style of clothing and the red fez. The costumes of the
+other classes varied according to their occupation. On the bridge as
+our driver guided his team through the throng, we saw Turkish soldiers
+in blue uniforms and red fez; Moslems wearing a green sash around the
+fez to indicate that they had performed a pilgrimage to Mecca;
+stately-looking bearded Greek priests in black robes and peculiar hats;
+Nubians with black glistening skins and tattooed faces; Moslem priests
+with pure white turbans, and Moslem priests with high green turbans;
+Russian or Hungarian peasants with coats of sheep skin, the fleecy sides
+of which were turned inward; Dervishes in brown mantles, and high-coned
+brown hats without brims; Hebrews in long yellow coats and little curls
+at the sides of their heads; Turks in gold embroidered trousers and
+jackets and long flowing blue sleeves; Turkish women with faces closely
+veiled, and negro women who concealed their features behind white veils
+in the same manner as the Turkish women.
+
+[Illustration: A STRUCTURE DIFFERING IN DESIGN FROM ANY OTHER CHRISTIAN
+TEMPLE.]
+
+"Those cakes looked so good, I was almost tempted to take one off the
+tray," said one of the occupants of our carriage, as a peddler carrying
+on his head a table filled with cakes and pastry passed so closely that
+his wares were within reach.
+
+"Oh, how could you think of doing such a thing," hastily exclaimed her
+companion, horrified at the thought, "we should all be placed in a
+dungeon and our pleasure ended."
+
+Peddlers of dates, bearing their stock of fruit in huge baskets on their
+backs and carrying scales in one hand, held up a sample of dates towards
+us with the other hand; dealers in nuts in the same manner carried and
+offered their wares to the passers-by; peddlers of "Turkish delight" and
+other sweetmeats arranged the candies on their trays in an attractive
+manner; and the sherbet sellers called attention to the pink liquid in
+large glass bottles suspended on their backs. At each end of the bridge
+were half a dozen toll collectors in long white overshirts who stood in
+line across the way collecting the toll of ten paras, or one cent, from
+each person that crossed.
+
+"How clearly that dome and the two minarets stand out against the
+sky," exclaimed one of the party, pointing to a great dome and two
+delicate minarets with tapering peaks which rose above the buildings
+directly in front of us on the other side of the bridge.
+
+[Illustration: THIS STREAM FLOWING INTO THE BOSPORUS IS CALLED THE
+GOLDEN HORN.]
+
+"That is the Mosque where the Sultans and their families went to prayer
+when they resided in the Seraglio near by. We will not stop at this
+Mosque but will go directly to the Mosque of St. Sophia."
+
+"Professor," said the lady who in Athens had confessed her ignorance of
+history, "please give us some information about the church of St. Sophia
+while we are grouped here together in front of the building."
+
+The professor expressed his willingness to do so, provided we were
+willing to take the time to listen.
+
+"In the year 532 A.D.," said he, "Justinian, the Emperor of the Eastern
+Roman Empire, decided to erect in Constantinople a church that should be
+a glory to the city and an honor to his name. His desire was to build
+one 'such as since Adam has never been seen,' a structure differing in
+design from any Christian temple previously constructed and surpassing
+in magnificence any temple that afterwards might be built. The empire
+was then at the height of its power and glory, and Justinian, in
+emulation of Solomon, made demands on all the countries under his
+dominion for contributions of ivory, cedar, gold, silver, precious
+stones, and the rarest marbles.
+
+"In order to attain his ambitious design, the monarch robbed the Temple
+of the Sun at Baalbek of columns of porphyry, despoiled the Temple of
+Diana of Ephesus of its finest pillars, took columns of pure white
+marble from the Temple of Minerva at Athens, and divested the shrines
+of Isis and Osiris in Egypt of their choicest granite columns. He called
+upon the quarries of Italy, Greece, and the AEgean Isles for marbles of
+every hue produced by them, so that, when completed, the temple should
+contain the most beautiful marbles the world could yield, and these he
+ordered to be highly polished and artistically arranged. To hasten the
+construction, ten thousand workmen under the direction of one hundred
+architects were employed, and in less than six years the immense
+structure, 'the great Church of Santa Sophia, or Heavenly Wisdom,' one
+of the most famous churches of the world, was ready for dedication.
+
+"The great altar was built of silver and gold, the seven chairs of the
+bishops were plated with silver, the crosses and crucifixes were
+composed of pure gold, and the altar cloth and vestments were encrusted
+with precious stones. Jeweled images of saints, sacred paintings of
+fabulous value, and holy relics to be adored by kneeling worshipers,
+were arranged around the walls of the building. The huge doors of the
+temple were made of cedar, ivory, amber, and silver; the ceiling
+glistened with golden mosaics; the walls shone with polished marbles:
+and the capitals of the columns were laced with delicate carvings inset
+with mother-of-pearl, silver, and precious stones.
+
+"On the day of the dedication of the temple a jubilant procession of
+patriarchs, bishops, priests, and people, in admiring wonder, entered
+the completed building with songs and rejoicings. The Emperor, at the
+head of the procession, overcome with pride and joy in the glorious
+consummation of his purpose, threw himself upon the floor and
+exultingly exclaimed: 'Glory to God who has deemed me worthy to
+accomplish so great a work. O Solomon, I have surpassed thee!'
+
+"In this sanctuary for over nine centuries the people worshiped God
+according to the Christian faith in great pomp and with much ceremony.
+The bishops officiated at the golden altar reading from golden lettered
+manuscripts, and were assisted in the service by scores of richly robed
+priests and hundreds of selected musicians, while the air was filled
+with the fragrance of rising incense. But during the latter part of the
+Middle Ages while the power and glory of the Roman Empire was gradually
+declining, the rival Mohammedan Turkish Empire in Asia was rapidly
+ascending to a dominant position. Finally, in the year 1453 A.D., the
+Sultan of Asiatic Turkey, Muhammed II, determined to obtain possession
+of Constantinople and make the city the capital of his empire. His army
+besieged the decadent city and captured it after a struggle of
+fifty-three days. When the Turkish troops entered in triumph they tore
+the emblems of Christianity from their places and, instead of the cross
+of the Christian, they raised the crescent of the Moslem.
+
+"In the church of St. Sophia the conquerors tore down the golden altar,
+melted the silver plates, removed the images of saints, painted over the
+sacred pictures, and took away the jewels and precious stones, changing
+the interior to suit the simpler worship of the followers of Mahomet.
+The name of the building was changed and it was thereafter known as the
+Mosque of Saint Sophia. For four hundred and fifty years the Mosque has
+been in possession of the Turks. Its doors are open at all times for
+Moslems to enter freely; but the entrance is carefully guarded to keep
+Christian or foreign visitors from intruding. The latter, however, may
+gain admission by paying an entrance fee of forty cents, and removing
+their shoes at the door or lacing over their shoes the loose slippers
+that are provided for this purpose."
+
+[Illustration: THREE MEN RAISED THE BURDEN TO HIS SHOULDERS.]
+
+On the porch of the Mosque we put our feet into the loose slippers, a
+Moslem attendant tied them on as carefully as the clumsy things could be
+tied, and then, accompanied by him, we entered the building. The immense
+floor, an acre in size, was covered with handsome heavy rugs. As we
+slid, rather than walked, over the soft Turkish carpets, our turbaned
+guide, with sharp, piercing, black eyes, watched carefully to see that
+our slippers did not become unfastened and drop off, and our infidel
+shoes profane the holy enclosure. And when one of the visitors laughed
+within the sacred edifice, the attendant's black eyes flashed with
+anger.
+
+It was not the regular hour for prayer in the mosque, but a number of
+worshipers were devoutly kneeling at different places in the interior,
+with faces turned toward a black stone in the south wall, which
+indicated the direction of the holy city of Mecca. Others, squatting on
+their bare heels, were reading or reciting in monotonous tones parts of
+the Koran. There are no benches or chairs in the building; Moslem
+worshipers do not require seats while at their devotions. The great
+dome, over one hundred feet in width, rises in grandeur one hundred and
+eighty feet overhead, supported by four huge columns each seventy feet
+in circumference. A circle of windows, forty-four in number, around the
+dome illumines the golden mosaics which cover the ceiling. A mosaic
+picture in the dome representing the Almighty, has been obliterated by
+the Turks and covered with green linen cloth. A verse from the Koran, in
+gilt Arabic characters almost thirty feet long, is painted on this
+cloth. The sentence, as translated, begins: "God is the light of
+heaven and earth," and ends, "God alone sheddeth His light on whomsoever
+He pleaseth."
+
+[Illustration: THROUGH THE NARROW STREETS OF THE CITY.]
+
+"If the Moslems believe in the Bible and in God as a supreme being, why
+did they destroy the mosaic representation of God on the ceiling?"
+inquired one of the visitors.
+
+"The Moslems do believe in the Bible and in one Supreme God," was the
+reply, "and it was this very belief that led them to paint out the
+picture of God and to destroy all the images and paintings of saints;
+for God's command is: 'Thou shalt not make unto thee any graven image,
+or any likeness of anything that is in the heaven above, or that is in
+the earth beneath, or that is in the water under the earth. Thou shalt
+not bow down thyself to them.'"
+
+"The Moslems," continued the guide, "regard Mahomet as the Prophet of
+God, and the Koran as written by him under the inspiration of God; but
+they do not worship Mahomet or any image or picture of him."
+
+We paused to admire the four green marble columns taken from the Temple
+of Diana, and the polished shafts brought from the Temple of the Sun,
+relics of those two magnificent cities, Ephesus and Baalbek, of whose
+grandeur nothing now remains but broken stones. We gazed upward at the
+eight immense green shields covered with Arabic characters, high above
+our heads on the walls. But we doubted the miraculous healing power of a
+small hole that is always damp in a bronze-covered pillar, and hesitated
+also to accept the tradition that the apparent imprint of a bloody hand
+in the marble wall was made by the Sultan Muhammed II when he rode into
+St. Sophia after the capture of the city.
+
+"On Fridays," said the guide, as we stood at the foot of the marble
+steps that led to the elevated pulpit, "the priest, clad in a long red
+robe, reads a prayer for the Sultan, and, while doing so, holds in one
+hand the Koran and in the other a drawn sword to indicate that this
+temple was captured from the Christians by force."
+
+"That prayer rug," he continued pointing to a beautiful carpet hanging
+on the wall near by, "was the personal prayer rug of the great conqueror
+Muhammed II. There is so much more to be seen," he added, "that we could
+spend the whole day here, but the dragoman is beckoning and we must go
+on."
+
+We shook the slippers from our feet in the porch and were driven through
+narrow streets to the Grand Bazaar.
+
+"The Grand Bazaar," said the guide, "covers several acres. It has one
+hundred entrances. There are twelve hundred narrow streets or passages
+under roof within the bazaar and on these streets are four thousand
+little shops."
+
+The Grand Bazaar, we decided, was the enormous department store of
+Stamboul; but we noticed that each little shop had its own proprietor.
+To many of the visitors, this Bazaar was the most interesting place in
+Constantinople; for here were found the most tempting bargains in
+Oriental wares, in its narrow passages were seen the native people in
+their most picturesque costumes, and in its maze of dimly lighted
+corridors some tourists were lost for awhile and met with novel
+adventures.
+
+The store of Far-Away-Moses was one of the largest and most popular of
+the shops in the Bazaar and that genial trader did a thriving business.
+There seemed to be a magnetic power that drew the guides in the
+direction of certain shops, an unseen influence that urged them to
+recommend certain places, and one of these places was Moses' emporium.
+Some of the ladies found that when they slipped away and entered a shop
+without a guide a better bargain could be secured.
+
+The price named for articles in the bazaar shops by the fezzed or
+turbaned dealers was generally three times the price that they would
+accept before losing a sale; but much tact was required on the part of
+the purchaser, and much valuable time was occupied in the diplomatic
+struggles between the acute Yankees and clever Moslems. When, however,
+the battle was won and the desired article secured at one-half or
+one-third the price at first demanded, the joy of the purchaser was
+doubled. The person, who, after an hour's dickering, bought a bronze
+ornament for twenty piasters, or one dollar of American money, was just
+as happy over the bargain as the one who succeeded in purchasing a
+magnificent silk rug for twenty thousand piasters. The money drawers of
+the Moslem traders were swollen with their contents but their shelves
+were less crowded when the Americans left the bazaar.
+
+When we returned to the vessel we found that during our absence the
+decks had been converted into a rival bazaar. The tourists who had
+failed to obtain souvenirs had another opportunity to buy them; for here
+were displayed silk rugs ranging in price from three thousand piasters
+downward, exquisite embroideries, rare silks, delicate fans, gold-laced
+shawls, fragrant attar of roses, and a multitude of articles in bronze,
+silver, and gold.
+
+"How restful it is to recline lazily in our comfortable steamer chairs
+rolled up in a rug, dreaming or talking over the events of the day,
+without any cares or worries to disturb our thoughts," remarked one of
+our friends as we sat upon the deck in the later evening hours watching
+the glimmering lights on the shore.
+
+"Yes," said another, "there seems to be nothing to disturb the serenity
+of the night; even the distant barking of the dogs appears to be in
+harmony with the soft lapping of the waves against the vessel. I feel
+that I shall rest to-night in my berth, as Shakespeare says, in a 'sleep
+that knits the ravel'd sleeve of care,' after the exertion of a full day
+of sight-seeing."
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX.
+
+THE SELAMLIK AND THE TREASURY.
+
+
+One dark night in the faraway past, so the story runs, the barking of
+dogs in the outskirts of Constantinople wakened the sleeping garrison in
+the city, warning them of the approach of a crafty foe who sought to
+surprise and capture the place. At the same time, the young moon, coming
+out from under a cloud, revealed the position of the enemy. The barking
+of the dogs and the light of the crescent moon enabled the garrison to
+frustrate the designs of their foes and save the capital from capture.
+Since then the nightly howlings of the dogs have been tolerated by the
+Turkish people and the crescent has had a place of honor on the Turkish
+banner. To kill a dog is an unpardonable offense. The dogs, however, are
+not well fed, well groomed pets, fondled, kissed, collared, and
+blanketed, as in some other countries; but are ownerless, homeless
+creatures roaming at night in great numbers through the streets and
+sleeping by day on the thoroughfares and sidewalks regardless of
+passers-by. The people step over or go around the sleeping animals and
+do not disturb them. The dogs seem to know their privileges, for they
+will not move out of the way.
+
+The city is noted for its dogs, not on account of their beauty or breed,
+for they are a disreputable lot of mongrel curs and bear the marks of
+many nightly brawls, but on account of the legions of them and their
+usefulness as scavengers. At nightfall the residents of Stamboul empty
+their garbage cans in the streets and the dogs, howling and fighting,
+dispose of every scrap before daylight. When a Turk desires to express
+the utmost contempt for a person he calls him a dog.
+
+[Illustration: THE DOG FIGHT HAD JUST ENDED.]
+
+"If you wish to avoid trouble while in this city," cautioned the
+dragoman, "neither disturb a sleeping dog in the highways,--for the dog
+will resent the interference with his slumbers,--nor call a Turk a dog,
+for the anger of a Turk thus reviled is uncontrollable until the
+offender who called him by that vilest of epithets is severely
+punished."
+
+A drive of one and a half miles along the Grand Rue de Galata, one of
+the wider thoroughfares in Galata parallel to the Bosporus, carried the
+tourists from the custom house pier to the gates of the Dolmah Bagcheh
+Palace. The entrance to the grounds of the palace is through a gateway
+of marble, beautiful in design and richly ornamented with elaborate
+Corinthian columns and delicate carvings of garlands, wreaths, and urns.
+
+While we gazed at the carvings, the officer in charge of the guard
+carefully examined our permit. Then the massive gates were swung open
+for our entrance. Within the palace we ascended a magnificent wide
+marble staircase, the balusters of which were made of clear glass. We
+admired the intricately carved alabaster bath-rooms and wondered if
+their neatness had ever been disturbed. We passed through a multitude of
+richly decorated chambers and salons where every article was arranged in
+perfect order, and walked on carpet strips laid for visitors' feet
+around the beautiful ball-room, not daring to tread on the highly
+polished hard-wood floor. Every apartment of the palace was immaculate,
+and resplendent in marble, porcelain, inlaid woods, and golden mosaics.
+The largest mirror in the world reflected the passers-by and costly
+paintings attracted the eyes of the visitors. The dark green malachite
+and the rich blue lapis lazuli harmonized pleasingly with yellow gold
+and white marble. And yet this grand show palace is unoccupied except by
+the hundreds of care-takers required to keep it in order. Its quiet is
+disturbed only by sight-seers who pay for the privilege of inspecting
+the stately apartments, and, on rare occasions, by imperial receptions
+which are held in the throne room. This immense apartment surpasses all
+the others in the elegance of its adornment. The dome overhead and the
+walls and the Corinthian columns which surround the room are richly
+decorated with oriental designs in white and gold. From the centre of
+the dome hangs a crystal chandelier noted for its size and beauty.
+
+"In this throne room," said the guide, "five thousand persons can stand.
+On the day after the close of the Fast of Ramazan, which is the first
+day of the Feast of Bairam, the Sultan drives here from Yildiz Palace,
+along a road lined with soldiers, and holds a State reception. Several
+thousand of the nobility assemble in this room and the Sultan, seated on
+that crimson and gold sofa, receives the homage of his officials. The
+generals of the army in gorgeous uniforms, the heads of the religious
+orders, holy men, and state officials approach according to their rank
+and make their obeisance to his Imperial Majesty. They reverently kiss
+the hem of his Majesty's garment, press the hem to their foreheads as a
+seal of their declaration of loyalty to his person, and then retire
+backward from his presence. During the reception every face in the
+assembly is turned toward the Sultan. To turn one's back to his Majesty,
+even for a moment, is unpardonable. That day after Ramazan is a great
+day in the city; cannons thunder, the bands play, the mosques are
+illuminated at night, and the people feast and rejoice."
+
+[Illustration: A TEAM OF GREAT HORNED OXEN.]
+
+"What is the Fast of Ramazan and when does it occur?"
+
+"The Fast of Ramazan," replied the guide, "is kept through the whole
+month of Ramazan, which corresponds to your month of September. For
+thirty days the Moslems do not eat bread nor drink water during the
+hours between sunrise and sunset. After sunset they may refresh
+themselves. The Prophet commanded that one specially named day in the
+month of Ramazan should be kept as a fast day; but the date of that
+particular day was somehow lost, and now, in order to make sure of
+keeping the fast on the day appointed, the Moslems keep every day in
+that month as a fast day. The Feast of Bairam immediately follows the
+end of the fasting. This festival consists of three days of feasting and
+festivities."
+
+Friday is the Mohammedan Sabbath, but we could not see that it made much
+difference in the traffic of the city. We asked the guide if the Turkish
+bazaars would be closed.
+
+"No," he replied, "but more of the faithful attend mosque on Friday than
+on other days, and on Friday each week the Sultan goes to his special
+mosque with great ceremony."
+
+The Sultan's weekly visit to prayer is called the Selamlik or Sultan's
+Procession to Mosque. Our guide obtained a good position for our
+carriage in an open square near the mosque from which to see the
+procession. The parade was not to occur until one o'clock, but in order
+to secure the place we were there at eleven. The time of waiting was not
+tiresome as there was much of interest going on around us all the time.
+Carriages of other visitors assembled in the open square; cabs
+containing invited dignitaries rolled up to the ruler's palace, which
+was within sight about one block away; guards drove the crowds from the
+streets; regiments of red-fezzed infantry tramped by and formed in lines
+along the street between the palace and the mosque; mounted lancers with
+flying pennons trotted to their positions; and the bands took their
+place near the palace. Uniformed policemen and spies in plain clothes
+circulated among the carriages and sight-seers, watching closely for
+suspicious characters, and listening to remarks made by visitors. We
+were advised by our dragoman not to mention the name of the Sultan.
+
+"How the Turks do enjoy their coffee," said an occupant of our carriage,
+calling attention to a group squatting on the ground with cups in hand.
+
+Near our carriage a Turk was making coffee on a portable stove and
+selling the beverage to thirsty customers; an itinerant barber placed
+his portable stool beside our carriage wheel, opened his kit of tools
+and was soon busy lathering and shaving dusky faces; a water peddler
+with his jar on his back played a tune on tumblers by rubbing them with
+his fingers; a cake peddler's table was upset by passing dragoons and he
+mournfully picked up the fragments. The trays of the Turkish peddlers of
+candies and cakes were clean and the articles offered appeared fresh and
+appetizing. We yielded to temptation and bought some "Turkish delight"
+and some light flaky biscuit, and, after eating the dainties, wished for
+more.
+
+[Illustration: THE TIME OF WAITING WAS NOT TIRESOME.]
+
+"It is nearly one o'clock," said the guide looking at his watch.
+
+The street cleaners were hastily giving a final polish to the roadway
+over which the Sultan would drive between the lines of soldiers. A dozen
+carts filled with clean sand that had been standing near us were hurried
+up the hill and the white sand was spread over the Sultan's path. The
+bands ceased playing; the soldiers stood at attention; the Muezzin
+called to prayer; a trumpet sounded from the gates; and from the palace
+on the hill carriages emerged containing the veiled wives of the ruler
+attended by black eunuchs on horseback. A long line of military officers
+in handsome uniforms followed on foot; then a shout arose from the
+assembled troops, and a carriage appeared drawn by a very handsome pair
+of horses in gold-mounted harness. In the carriage the Sultan sat alone.
+The huzzas of the troops continued until his Majesty entered the mosque.
+Then all was silent, for the Sultan was at his prayers alone. His wives
+and his officials had been left at the entrance. No person was permitted
+to enter. The Iman, or priest in charge, and the Sultan were the only
+occupants of the mosque.
+
+Without waiting for the ruler's return the visitors hastened away, the
+carriages raising such a cloud of dust that it was difficult to see
+across the road. A hasty luncheon in a Pera restaurant followed, and
+then we turned toward Stamboul. As we drove again across the Galata
+bridge through the ever interesting throng of humanity that crowds over
+it, our attention was called to the manner in which merchandise is
+conveyed through the narrow streets of the city. Wagons are rarely
+used, but men carry the merchandise on their backs and shoulders. These
+men passed us laden with immense bales of hides, huge bundles of carpets
+and rugs, large boxes of dry-goods, great crates of fruits or
+vegetables, piles of trunks, barrels and sacks of groceries, and cans of
+oil. The ponderous burdens were heaped upon wooden frames fitted to the
+backs and strapped to the shoulders of the carriers. When the load was
+too heavy for one man to carry, it was suspended on poles and carried by
+two or more of the bearers.
+
+[Illustration: "WHAT A CONTRAST," SHE SAID.]
+
+A high wall surrounds the old Seraglio grounds. Before visitors may
+enter a permit must be obtained. A permit including the necessary fees
+to the keepers costs small parties of visitors about five dollars each;
+the permit and fees for the Molkte party, so it was rumored, cost the
+managers two hundred dollars. The captain of the guard at the gate
+scrutinized our permit and kept us waiting until an official was
+summoned to act as our conductor. When we arrived at the Treasury
+building the huge door was opened with impressive ceremony and the
+uniformed officials kept the tourists under close surveillance while
+they were within.
+
+Among the many curiosities that attracted attention in the first room of
+the Treasury was a throne captured from one of the Shahs of Persia four
+hundred years ago. This Persian throne is made of beaten gold inlaid
+with rubies and emeralds, and is said to be of fabulous value. Arranged
+in glass cases in another room a row of figures represents the Sultans
+of past ages clothed in the royal attire worn by them. The white turbans
+of these effigies are ablaze with jewels. The mantles which cover them
+are of Oriental brocade wrought in gold and silver patterns, and the
+belts, swords, and daggers are adorned with sparkling gems. A suit of
+chain armor worn by one of the Sultans of olden times is ornamented with
+gold and diamonds. On the second floor of the Treasury, to which we
+ascended by a narrow stairway, the most carefully guarded treasure is a
+throne used by a former Turkish ruler. This Turkish throne is made of
+precious wood inlaid with tortoise shell, mother of pearl, and gold and
+silver traceries, and is set with turquoises. A canopy overspreads the
+throne, and beneath the canopy, suspended by a golden cord, hangs an
+enormous pear-shaped emerald. In cases around the various rooms, crowns,
+sceptres, simitars, swords, daggers, and talismans, scintillate with
+rubies, emeralds, and diamonds.
+
+"Many of the highly valued treasures stored in these rooms," said our
+friend, the professor, "are trophies of the times when Crusader knight,
+Persian prince, and Saracen warrior went forth to battle arrayed in
+costly apparel, and encamped under silken canopies or in tents of cloth
+of gold. Then jeweled balls suspended from golden cords adorned the tent
+poles of the warriors, and luxury and opulence abounded underneath the
+canopies. The royalty of kings and princes moved with them to the field
+of war. Under pavilions of Oriental weave, silken carpets were spread
+over the turf for royal feet to tread, and thrones erected from which
+the sovereigns issued their commands. Retinues of retainers rendered
+obeisance and executed the mandates of their lords. Caravans of camels
+laden with robes of royalty and chests of treasure moved from camp to
+camp.
+
+"Knights and warriors vied with each other in the splendor of their
+equipage. The trappings of their war steeds were embroidered in silk and
+gold; the breastplates and helmets which protected their bodies were
+embossed with silver or traced with gold; the scabbards and hilts of
+their weapons were encrusted with precious stones; and their mantles
+were clasped with fastenings and buckles adorned with jewels. In battle
+the body of a dead knight gave much booty to the slayer; the capture of
+a canopy enriched the captors; and the defeat of an army and seizure of
+its camp gave to the victors a train of spoils.
+
+"For several centuries, the Turkish empire was dominant in the East and
+its armies victorious in the field. It was during these centuries of
+power that the Moslem rulers gathered the great accumulation of
+trophies and spoils of war, valued at untold millions, which we find
+stored in the rooms of this marble edifice."
+
+After leaving the Treasury we were led by the official conductor past
+the building in which the mantle, sword, and green banner of the great
+founder of Mohammedanism are treasured. These personal relics of the
+Prophet are considered by the Moslems too sacred to be gazed upon by
+infidel eyes.
+
+We tarried awhile in the Bagdad Kiosk, a white marble palace noted for
+its interior wall decoration of blue tiling, beautiful doors inlaid with
+mother of pearl, and handsome furniture inlaid with inscriptions of
+silver, and thence proceeded to a marble pavilion in which, as guests of
+the absent Sultan, we partook of refreshments. These refreshments,
+consisting of Turkish coffee in tiny cups and Turkish preserves on small
+plates, were brought to us by the servants of the Sultan. We stood
+awhile on the portico in the rear of the pavilion and admired the
+magnificent view of the harbor with its shipping, and the surrounding
+shores covered with buildings.
+
+Leaving the portico and its panoramic view with regret, we turned to the
+Museum of Antiquities, intending to inspect hastily the relics of
+ancient times which it contains. The collection, however, proved to be
+much more interesting than we had expected, so, instead of hurriedly
+passing through the building, we lingered around the sarcophagi and
+studied the hunting and battle scenes which were exquisitely carved on
+the polished marble of the exteriors of the old stone coffins. The
+most beautiful of these sarcophagi, twenty-one in number, have been
+discovered within the past thirty or forty years at Sidon in Syria. The
+tireless archaeologists, eager in pursuit of knowledge of the past, found
+and opened the graves in which the dead kings of Sidon had quietly
+rested for thousands of years; then disinterring the heavy stone caskets
+they brought them to Constantinople to be placed on exhibition.
+
+[Illustration: THE STREET CARS IN PERA ARE DOUBLE-DECKED.]
+
+These sarcophagi are stone caskets of great size and weight composed of
+two pieces, the chest and lid. The chest is hewn out of one solid block
+of marble and the lid of another. The sarcophagi range from ten to
+twelve feet in length, from five to six feet in width, and from six to
+eight feet in height. One of the stone coffins, made of black Egyptian
+marble and named the Tabnith, contained, when found, the dried up mummy
+of an ancient king, Tabnith, who lived four centuries before the time of
+Christ. An inscription on this in Egyptian hieroglyphics pronounced a
+curse upon the man who should despoil the tomb, but the dreadful warning
+was not deciphered until the casket reached the Museum. Another
+sarcophagus, called the Satrap's, cut out of Parian marble, somewhat
+resembles a Grecian temple in form. On the sides are depicted, in marble
+carvings, a funeral banquet, a governor on his throne, a hunting scene
+with a lion at bay, a frightened horse dragging its dismounted rider,
+and many other similar scenes.
+
+"But this, in my opinion, is the most attractive casket in the
+collection," said the professor as we came to one named the Weepers, on
+the marble sides of which a master sculptor of ancient times had carved
+eighteen female forms. "Notice how each figure is portrayed in a
+different graceful attitude of mourning and how each is a picture of
+sorrow. And notice, too, the exquisite workmanship of the frieze with
+its ornamentation of a hundred small figures in hunting scenes."
+
+[Illustration: WE FED THE PIGEONS AT THE PIGEON MOSQUE.]
+
+Near to the Weepers is the sarcophagus known as the Alexander, the most
+famous in the collection, by many considered the most beautiful in the
+world, and in the opinion expressed by the American Consul in
+Constantinople, "worth crossing the ocean to see." The sculptures on
+this represent a battle between Greeks and Persians with many figures
+and incidents of battle, and elaborate hunting scenes with many details
+delicately worked out. These four sarcophagi, and the one named the
+Lycian on which Amazons in four horse chariots hunting lions are
+delineated, attracted the most attention from the tourists, but there
+were scores of other sarcophagi in the collection almost as interesting.
+
+In another part of the Museum, called the China Pavilion, the noted
+stone tablet from the Temple of Jerusalem was on exhibition. This
+tablet, discovered at Jerusalem in the year 1871, originally stood in
+the Temple enclosure to mark the limit which Gentiles were not allowed
+to pass. The Greek inscription on the tablet is translated as follows:
+
+"No Gentile may pass beyond the railing into the court round the Temple;
+he who is caught trespassing will bring death upon himself."
+
+Statues, pottery, porcelain, jewels, and antiquities of various kinds
+were hurriedly passed by until an exclamation of one of the ladies
+caused us to pause.
+
+"Look at his eyes," she said, pointing to a bronze statue of Jupiter.
+"Did you ever see any eyes like that in a statue?"
+
+The eyes of the god were represented by two bright rubies which gave
+them a very peculiar expression. This room contained many exquisite
+pieces of bronze work; one representing Hercules was particularly fine
+in execution.
+
+"We will stop now to view the Hippodrome," said the guide, after driving
+a short distance from the Museum.
+
+"But where is the Hippodrome?" inquired a tourist as we descended from
+the carriages in a long open square.
+
+"Alas! the building is no more," sadly replied the guide. "This square
+is a part of the ground on which it stood. The space was originally very
+long and wide, but that great Mosque of Ahmed and other buildings now
+occupy a large portion of the old circus grounds.
+
+"The ancient Hippodrome was an oblong enclosure fourteen hundred feet
+long and four hundred feet wide, surrounded by magnificent porticos
+adorned with statues of marble and bronze, and had a seating capacity of
+eighty thousand. It was used for chariot races, athletic sports, and
+bloody gladiatorial combats. Sometimes the seats were crowded with
+people, now assembled to glory in the triumphal procession of a
+returning conqueror, now to gloat over the burning of heretics and
+criminals who had been condemned to death by the flames.
+
+"That high red granite obelisk covered with hieroglyphics at the end of
+the square is called the Obelisk of Theodosius the Great. It was
+originally erected in the Temple of the Sun in Egypt in 1600 B.C. by a
+haughty king who inscribed on the stone a statement that he had
+'conquered the whole world,' and that his 'royalty was as firm as that
+of the gods in the sky.' For two thousand years the obelisk remained in
+Heliopolis as a memorial of its builder, Thotmes III, but for the past
+fifteen hundred years it has stood here as a monument to the Emperor
+Theodosius, who brought it from Egypt as a trophy. In order that he
+might not be forgotten, the Emperor caused a representation of himself
+surrounded by courtiers, guards, and dancing girls to be carved on the
+base of the obelisk. These sculptures, as you see, are in good
+condition. The bronze 'Serpent Column' in the centre of the square,
+representing three serpents coiled around each other, once supported the
+tripod used in the ceremonial services of the Pythian oracle at Delphi."
+
+When the guide had finished his remarks, our friend, the professor,
+stepped forward and said: "Some of the tourists may not be familiar with
+the story of the horses that lived as long and traveled as far as did
+the 'Wandering Jew' in Eugene Sue's well known romance. The conductor
+has requested me to relate the story."
+
+"In some ancient time before the Christian era, a Roman conqueror found
+in an Oriental city four magnificent horses that pleased him. He took
+them to Rome to grace his triumph. Centuries later the covetous Emperor
+Constantine brought these same horses from Rome to Constantinople and
+stood them here to add glory to the splendor of his Hippodrome. For nine
+hundred years the horses remained undisturbed; then ruthless Christian
+Crusaders carried them with other spoils to Venice. A long rest at
+Venice succeeded until the ambitious Bonaparte drew them away to
+beautify his famous Capitol. After the downfall of Napoleon the prayers
+of the Venetians were effectual in bringing the horses away from Paris,
+and now these gilded bronze travelers, that were coveted and prized by
+great rulers of the world, stand in front of the Church of San Marco in
+the city of Venice."
+
+[Illustration: WAGONS ARE RARELY USED, MEN CARRY MERCHANDISE.]
+
+As the professor ceased speaking, a clear penetrating voice was heard
+from overhead crying:
+
+"Al-la-hu, Ak-bar! Al-la-hu, Ak-bar!" uttering each syllable distinctly.
+
+It was the Muezzin calling the people to prayer. Looking up we saw him
+on a little balcony near the summit of a minaret which stood within the
+enclosure of the adjoining Mosque of Ahmed. Then he disappeared and we
+heard more faintly his call from the farther side of the balcony. It is
+the Muezzin's duty to repeat his calls from the four sides of the
+minaret, to north, east, south, and west. His words were interpreted for
+us: "God is great," repeated four times on each side of the minaret.
+
+Faithful Moslems on hearing the call repeated his words.
+
+"There is no God but God," he called again, reciting it twice.
+
+His hearers repeated this declaration.
+
+"Mohammed is the prophet of God."
+
+The people responded in the same words.
+
+"Come to prayer."
+
+"I have no power or strength but from God most high and great," all true
+believers replied.
+
+"Come to do good," again the Muezzin called.
+
+"What God wills will be; what he wills not will not be," answered the
+people, all responses being muttered in low tones.
+
+"The ringing of bells to call the people to service is forbidden," said
+the guide. "It is written that when the Mohammedan meetings were first
+held in Arabia, there was difficulty in gathering the people together
+and propositions were made to 'Ring a bell as the Christians do,' and to
+'Blow the trumpets as do the Jews;' but Omar cried, 'What! is there not
+a man among you who can call to prayer?' The prophet then said, 'O
+Billal! stand and make the call to prayer.' Since then the melodious
+voices of the trained Muezzins five times each day summon the Moslems
+to prayer, and the tall graceful minarets which rise above the
+surrounding buildings were erected so that the voices could ring out
+over the city."
+
+We followed the faithful into the mosque, after paying our fees and
+donning the slippers, and stood quietly in the rear of the great
+auditorium. The interior was brightened by beautiful blue and white
+tiling which lined the arches overhead and covered the immense piers
+that supported the roof. Inside the mosque, near the entrance, water was
+running from spigots into stone basins. The Moslems stopped at the
+basins and washed their hands and feet. Some of the better dressed
+worshipers appeared to have slippers inside their shoes and went through
+the motion of washing the feet, but the poorer classes used the water to
+cleanse their feet, and then walked forward barefooted on the rugs. Each
+man,--for there were no women at the service,--carried his shoes with
+him and placed them upon a board on the floor provided for that purpose.
+
+The Koran, the sacred book, which, as the Moslems claim, was revealed to
+Mahomet by the angel Gabriel and was written by Mahomet under
+inspiration, commands:
+
+"The clothes and person of the worshiper must be clean, the place free
+from all impurity, and the face turned toward Mecca." And also:
+
+"O believers! when ye address yourselves to prayer wash your hands up to
+the elbows, and wipe your heads, and your feet to the ankles."
+
+The worshipers, scattered around the vast interior, all facing the
+black stone in the wall which indicates the direction of Mecca, repeated
+their prayers in low tones. At first they stood with hands close at
+their sides, then as they muttered the prescribed formulas the hands
+were raised to the sides of the heads, then with hands clasped in front
+the worshipers remained for a short time in devout attention. After
+bowing several times the Moslems knelt on the Oriental rugs continuing
+the muttered supplications and concluded their personal devotions by
+bowing forward on their feet. The Iman, or priest, then ascended the
+pulpit, the worshipers formed in lines, and as the priests read the
+prayers, they went through the same movements that they had previously
+made while at their personal devotions.
+
+"Women do not take any part in the public worship on the floor of the
+mosque," said the guide. "The latticed galleries are provided for them.
+There they may sit in privacy during the service. The galleries,
+however, are rarely occupied."
+
+The Mosque of Ahmed has six minarets; St. Sophia, only four. The
+minarets, slender, round towers, are not attached to the main edifices,
+but stand separate and distinct in the courts surrounding the mosques,
+with some space intervening between mosque and minaret.
+
+Resuming our drive through the very narrow streets of Stamboul, which
+are paved with large rough cobble stones once laid in place but now very
+much out of place, we passed many old unpainted frame buildings with
+stove pipes projecting from the windows of the second and third floors.
+
+"I do not wish any one ill," said a tourist who at home was chief of a
+city Fire Department, "but I would give a ten dollar gold piece if I
+could see how the fire department of this old city manages to control or
+extinguish a conflagration after it has gained headway among these
+tinder boxes. The watchmen on the watch towers surely cannot locate a
+fire and give the alarm until they see a smoke or flame arising."
+
+[Illustration: CAMEL AND DONKEY WERE BEDECKED WITH TRAPPINGS.]
+
+The fountains of the city were one of the peculiar Turkish institutions
+that attracted the tourists' attention. The Koran enjoins all true
+believers to abstain from intoxicants, and to perform regular ablutions
+before prayers; so there are drinking fountains at corners where the
+thirsty assemble to drink from brass cups, and washing fountains or
+basins outside and adjoining the mosques, as well as inside these
+buildings, where Moslems were seen washing hands or feet regardless of
+our curious eyes. Some of the drinking fountains are very large and
+beautiful. The fountain erected by Sultan Ahmed surpasses all others in
+grace of proportion and beauty of design. This magnificent structure is
+ornamented with carved arabesques, inscriptions in gilt, and delicately
+colored green tile. Above the water tap may be seen in Turkish
+characters the builder's mandate:
+
+"Wayfarer, admire this beautiful work; turn the tap in the name of
+Allah; drink thy fill and bless the founder, Ahmed Khan."
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X.
+
+FROM THE BOSPORUS TO PALESTINE.
+
+
+The program posted for Saturday, February twenty-eighth, announced that
+the Moltke would leave Constantinople at nine o'clock in the morning for
+a trip to the Black Sea, a distance of thirty-five miles. As we sailed
+up the Bosporus, which narrows and widens, twists and turns, a
+succession of picturesque scenes opened up before us. Scattered along
+the shores, which for fifteen or twenty miles beyond Constantinople may
+be considered suburbs of that city, white marble palaces of the rulers,
+summer residences of the foreign ambassadors, and villas of the wealthy
+Turks were seen interspersed with modern villages and ruined walls and
+castles of past ages. Pretty frame summer houses, groves of dark green
+cypress, gardens, boat-houses, and mosques added interest to the views.
+
+"The sail up the Bosporus reminds me of one taken on the Hudson River,
+but the scenery on the banks is Oriental instead of modern," remarked
+one of the tourists.
+
+"The old castles and ruined walls, and the legends connected with them,
+suggest the Rhine," commented another.
+
+At the water's edge on the Asiatic side, a few miles from the city, we
+saw the beautiful white marble Beylerbey Palace, built in the year 1866
+by Abdul-Aziz, the predecessor of the present Sultan, as a residence
+for his harem. For their pleasure he surrounded the palace with groves
+and gardens and established a menagerie in the grounds. About eight
+miles from the city all eyes were turned toward a hill on the European
+shore, where, above a cluster of buildings, the Stars and Stripes
+floated in the breeze.
+
+"That is the American College, which is doing good work in Turkey. It
+was founded by Mr. A. Robert of New York, and is known as the 'Robert
+College,'" said the guide.
+
+[Illustration: THE TURKISH STUDENTS WAVED HATS AND FLAGS.]
+
+As our steamer passed the college, the Turkish students from roof,
+windows, and campus waved hats, handkerchiefs, and flags, and cheered
+energetically, and the tourists waved to them in return. Just beyond the
+college we passed an old town surrounded by ancient towers and time-worn
+walls.
+
+"This ancient stronghold," said the guide, "was known as the Citadel
+of Europe. The fortress commanded the Strait and enabled the Sultans of
+four centuries ago to levy toll on all passing vessels. At this place,
+where the Bosporus is only about half a mile wide, the Persian ruler,
+Darius, with his army crossed on a bridge of boats to invade Greece.
+Here also the Crusaders crossed on their way to free the Holy Land from
+the clutch of the Saracens."
+
+[Illustration: LEVIED TOLL ON ALL PASSING VESSELS.]
+
+The Moltke sailed into the Black Sea merely far enough to sweep around
+in a wide circle and then, returning through the Bosporus, passed by
+Constantinople and entered the Sea of Marmora.
+
+"It seems like parting with a dear old friend," said a tourist as we
+looked back on the fading domes and waved farewell to mosque and
+minaret. "We have seen so much of the city in so short a time. Every
+hour has been used to the best advantage in the Turkish capital."
+
+Sunday, March first, was not to be a day of rest for the tourists; for
+the Moltke had arrived at Smyrna at daylight and was to remain in the
+harbor of that city only until dark.
+
+The principal reason for a day's stay at Smyrna was to give an
+opportunity for an excursion by train to the site of ancient Ephesus.
+Many of the tourists took this trip to see the few scattered ruins that
+mark the place where once stood the magnificent Temple of Diana. The
+clergymen of the party desired to view the place where the Apostle Paul
+had fought in the arena with wild beasts, and where Demetrius and his
+fellow silversmiths had led the rioters against this Apostle whose
+preaching interfered with the sales of silver shrines for Diana.
+
+Other tourists, who did not take the excursion to Ephesus, explored the
+narrow, badly-paved streets of Smyrna, and visited the bazaars. This
+city would have seemed more interesting to us but for our previous visit
+to the more picturesque Constantinople. In a crowded street we
+encountered a flock of turkeys driven by a native. The turkeys appeared
+to understand the driver's commands and were more easily guided by a
+touch of his long switch than would be a flock of sheep passing through
+a street in an American city.
+
+Setting sail again, we passed late in the evening the island of Patmos,
+where Saint John wrote the book of Revelations, and on Monday morning we
+saw at a distance the island of Rhodes, noted for its historic defense
+by the Knights of Malta. About nine o'clock Tuesday morning the Moltke
+anchored in the Bay of St. George some distance from the shore. On the
+surrounding hill slopes rose the city of Beyrout. Fresh-looking white
+and yellow tinted buildings, red-tiled roofs, and a background of green
+groves and orchards interspersed with white villas, gave the city an
+appearance of newness. The whole scene, with the snow-capped Mountains
+of Lebanon beyond, presented a beautiful picture to the eye.
+
+"Beyrout has a population of 120,000, and is a prosperous, growing
+city," said one of the managers of the tour. "It is a centre of
+missionary work, and has American and German colleges. The old streets
+are narrow, as are all old streets in Eastern towns; but they are clean.
+The newer streets are of modern width. Educational advantages, foreign
+enterprise, and European mercantile firms have infused new life into
+the native population."
+
+[Illustration: LADEN WITH HUGE TIMBERS.]
+
+Madame Barakat, a native of Syria, and a well-known lecturer and Bible
+reader, had very kindly given us letters of introduction to her Syrian
+relatives in Beyrout. Among these were Mr. Sarkis, a highly respected
+gentleman who had been honored by the Sultan with decorations for
+services to his country, and who was also an author and editor of a
+daily newspaper; and Mr. Sabra, his assistant, a tall, fine-looking man.
+Another was the Rev. Mr. Zurub, pastor of the Congregational Church. The
+three gentlemen were able to converse in English as fluently as in their
+own tongue.
+
+[Illustration: I. SCATTERED RUINS OF EPHESUS.]
+
+[Illustration: II. WHERE ONCE STOOD THE TEMPLE OF DIANA.]
+
+We were very cordially received by Mr. Sarkis, and, after meeting and
+conversing with the other gentlemen, were shown through their printing
+house, where Syrian type-setters were setting type to print Arabic
+letters that looked like shorthand characters, and Jewish girls were
+employed binding pamphlets. Our names were given to the printer, and in
+a few minutes he presented us with visiting cards containing the names
+in Arabic letters, thus:
+
+[Illustration: Arabic script]
+
+"Let us visit a candy factory while waiting for the carriages I have
+ordered," said Mr. Sabra. "I know that the ladies are fond of sweetmeats
+and I can guarantee these to be perfectly pure. We think that our
+candies are delicious," he added as we entered the factory, and the
+ladies agreed with him after eating some of the sweets.
+
+The Syrians take pride in their city, in its factories, its hospitals,
+its seminaries and colleges, its progressive business spirit, and the
+beauty of its suburbs. We visited one of the silk factories where
+hundreds of Syrian girls were engaged in unwinding the cocoons of
+delicate gossamer that had been tediously spun and wound by the silk
+worms among the leaves of the mulberry trees in the great orchards on
+the hillsides.
+
+"On the slope of yonder mountain we have a villa in which we spend the
+hot summer months," said Mr. Sabra, pointing to the distant mountains as
+we reached an elevation from which a broad view was obtained. "If there
+had been time I would have taken you there to see one of the most
+beautiful views in Syria."
+
+[Illustration: CACTI IN BEYROUT MADE AN IMPENETRABLE FENCE.]
+
+"The landscape is magnificent as seen from here," we replied. The
+fruitful valley lay before us, beyond rose the verdant hills, and above
+all towered the stately mountains of Lebanon. Villages, hamlets, villas,
+exuberant gardens, orchards of spreading mulberry trees, graceful palms,
+fig, lemon, and orange trees enhanced the beauty of the scene.
+
+"Our colleges and schools," said Mr. Sarkis, "are equal to those of a
+European city. Our people are becoming an educated people; almost all of
+the younger generation can read and write. My daughters have been
+educated in the American Seminary and can converse fluently in French,
+German, and English, as well as in Arabic."
+
+In a narrow thoroughfare we passed horses laden with long boards
+strapped lengthwise on their backs, and camels laden with huge timbers
+strapped to their backs and sides in the same manner.
+
+"This is my home," said Mr. Sarkis, as the carriage stopped before a
+large house surrounded by a small garden and a high wall. "I wish you to
+meet my wife and sister and daughters."
+
+Our hostesses were dressed in the English fashion, and our hosts, too,
+wore modern English clothes, but the red fez on their heads designated
+them as Turkish subjects. When we expressed an interest in their way of
+living, the ladies took us from the reception room, which was furnished
+in modern style, into their garden where orange and lemon trees and
+semi-tropical plants were growing. They conducted us then through the
+spacious marble-floored central hall, permitting us to look into nursery
+and bedrooms fitted up partly in modern and partly in Oriental style,
+and led us up a stone stairway to the level roof, which, with its
+surrounding parapet, recalled the one described in "Ben Hur." Here fruit
+was served by a Syrian maid clad in the native costume. On our return to
+the lower floor, our hostesses conducted us to the divan salon or
+Oriental smoking room. There, while we rested on low couches, the
+Syrian maid passed around Turkish coffee in dainty cups, and then
+brought a lighted narghileh from which, in turn, each one present took a
+few whiffs of the mild Turkish tobacco.
+
+[Illustration: VISITED THE OLDEST CITY IN THE WORLD.]
+
+Mr. Sarkis told us that he had visited the United States at the time of
+the Chicago Exposition. He took one hundred and forty Arabian horses to
+the Exposition and had some interesting experiences while there. The
+Rev. Mr. Zurub had spent sixteen months in America and spoke in the
+highest terms of the kindness with which he had been received by the
+American people.
+
+In the evening a ball was given on the deck of the steamer, which had
+been tastefully decorated for the occasion. Our friends, Mr. Sarkis,
+Mrs. Sarkis and sister, the daughters, Fahima, aged about eighteen,
+Neda, aged about fourteen, and a son, aged about sixteen, together with
+Mr. Sabra, came on board to visit the ship. Mr. Sabra sang some Arabic
+songs and Fahima joined him in a duet.
+
+About fifty tourists left the Moltke at Beyrout in order to take the
+side trip of three days to Damascus, the oldest city in history, and to
+the ruins of the great Temple of Baal at Baalbek. A narrow-gauge railway
+extends across the Lebanon Mountains from Beyrout to Damascus. The
+distance is but ninety miles, but as the train has to rise to an
+elevation of nearly five thousand feet and then descend to the valley
+beyond, the average speed does not exceed ten or twelve miles an hour.
+On Wednesday morning the steamer stopped at the little seaport of Haifa
+just long enough to send ashore sixty passengers. Some of these wished
+to take the side trip to Nazareth and the Sea of Galilee by carriage;
+the others, to make the excursion through the interior of Palestine on
+horseback, camping on the way, and rejoining the main party in
+Jerusalem.
+
+At noon on Wednesday the Moltke anchored in the unprotected harbor of
+Jaffa over a mile from the shore, as it is not safe for a large steamer
+to approach nearer. This was the landing place in the Mediterranean most
+dreaded by the tourists; for we had heard of jagged rocks that projected
+their black heads from the water, and of rough seas that on windy days
+broke over the rocks making the passage from the vessel to the dock very
+dangerous. The weather, however, was fair and the sea unusually smooth
+that noon as the tourists one by one dropped from the platform at the
+foot of the stairway into the row-boats as they rose on the swell of the
+waves. The boats were large and built expressly for this dangerous
+harbor. Each boat was managed by eight men, six rowers, a helmsman, and
+a bowman, and each boat carried about twenty passengers. As the Syrians
+labored hard at the oars they chanted continually a prayer to Allah for
+a fair passage.
+
+After safely landing at the stone steps of the dock, we proceeded
+through the streets to the special train which was waiting to carry us
+up to Jerusalem, not stopping to visit the traditional house of Simon,
+the tanner, where the Apostle Peter had a vision on the roof.
+
+"The oranges of Jaffa are noted as being the finest in the world. Don't
+fail to buy some," said a gentleman from California. "We raise good
+oranges in my state, but ours are not quite equal to those of Jaffa."
+
+Arab men and boys surrounded the tourists at the station offering
+carefully packed baskets, each containing two or three dozen fresh,
+juicy oranges at what seemed an extremely low price. When the train
+started every compartment contained one or more baskets of the delicious
+fruit.
+
+[Illustration: IT WAS A TYPICAL SYRIAN GROUP.]
+
+The journey from Jaffa to Jerusalem was literally "up;" for the Sacred
+City is nearly three thousand feet above the sea, and four hours was
+required for the trip of fifty-four miles. After leaving Jaffa the train
+passed through a succession of interesting panoramic views: gardens
+where richness of soil was manifested by the rankness of the growth of
+the plants and flowers; groups of palm trees with long, rough trunks,
+and tufted heads high in the air; long rows of tall, narrow-leaved,
+evergreen eucalyptus trees; orchards of orange trees where yellow fruit
+clustered amid the glossy dark green leaves; orchards of almond trees
+covered with a delicate pink bloom; and orchards of gray olive trees
+with a carpet of grass underneath, as beautiful as a park; bare fig
+trees whose time for leaf and bloom had not yet come; and fences of huge
+leaved prickly cactus plants protecting garden plots.
+
+"What queer looking plows they have," said a companion, as we noticed
+near the train a plowman who had stopped his camel, and thrown his plow,
+which looked like a crooked root with a point, out of the furrow, while
+he gazed at the passing train. "The first gardener must have obtained a
+plow of the same kind from the original forest."
+
+In stretches of sod the rich brown earth was being turned up by farmers
+with teams of camels, one great camel to each little wooden plow, or
+with teams composed of an ox and an ass hitched together. In one field
+twelve camel teams were plowing the sod. We use the word field, but
+there were no fences except the cactus hedges around small plots. The
+farm boundaries from ancient times have been marked by corner stones to
+which Moses referred when he gave the law: "Cursed be he that removeth
+his neighbor's landmark." We were in the midst of historic places
+mentioned in the Bible. To the north lay the fertile level fields of the
+Plain of Sharon. Fields of young wheat were beautified by the roses of
+Sharon,--red poppies with black centres and short stems,--which dotted
+the carpet of green with flecks of red. At Lydda, where Peter healed the
+man who had the palsy, Arab urchins begged the passengers to buy little
+bunches of the red poppies and other wild flowers that they offered for
+sale. To the south stretched the Plain of Philistia, the scene of
+Samson's adventures, and the fields through which he sent the three
+hundred foxes with firebrands tied to their tails. In that direction
+also lay battle fields where Philistines and Israelites struggled for
+supremacy.
+
+[Illustration: A CARAVAN WITH BALES OF RUGS HAD JUST ARRIVED.]
+
+The towns and villages on the route were small and mean. The better
+buildings were constructed of stone with flat stone roofs, but many were
+made of mud with mud roofs on which a crop of grass was growing. After
+the first hour's ride, fertile rolling plains succeeded the level sandy
+loam. When about thirty miles from Jaffa, after a two hours' ride, the
+hill country of Judea was entered. From that point the train traveled
+slowly and laboriously up the hills and mountains by steep gradients.
+Overhead in the limestone cliffs were many caves, one of which was
+pointed out as Samson's Grotto. Whenever there was any soil among the
+rocks and stones, the grass grew luxuriantly, making good pasture for
+the herds of nimble-footed black goats that picked their way along the
+steep and rocky mountain side. The red rose of Sharon grew in profusion
+and took possession of the uncultivated ground around the trees and
+between the rocks. At many places the abundance of these poppies and the
+beauty of their groupings gave to the land the appearance of a park
+planned and laid out by a landscape gardener. Nearer the summit the
+hills were bleak and barren. Here was the village of Bittir, a group of
+little stone houses clinging to the mountain side, where terraces
+supported by stone walls held up small gardens on which cauliflower and
+other vegetables were growing.
+
+[Illustration: THEY CHANTED A PRAYER TO ALLAH.]
+
+"For the past hour," said a lady who had been intently gazing out of the
+window of the car, "yes, for a longer time, I have been looking forward
+expecting to see a city burst forth impressively into sight, a city upon
+a mountain top, 'beautiful for situation.' Now the conductor tells us
+that we are nearing our destination, and yet cliffs and hills are all
+that we can see. Where is Jerusalem? 'A city set upon a hill cannot be
+hid.'"
+
+"You have not read your Bible closely," replied a minister in our
+compartment. "David said, 'The mountains are round about Jerusalem,' As
+it was then so we shall find it now, on hills surrounded by other hills.
+Do not expect to see the city of Solomon's time which the Queen of Sheba
+came to visit. Its glory departed eighteen centuries ago. I fear that
+your imagination has led you to expect more than the modern Turkish town
+which we shall find, and you may feel like lamenting with Jeremiah, 'Is
+this the city that men call the perfection of beauty, the joy of the
+whole earth?'"
+
+It was not until we were approaching the railway station, which is
+situated in the suburbs about a mile from the city, that we obtained a
+view of the yellow walls and buildings of the Holy City, and the sight
+then was not impressive, as we had expected. Then at the station, amid
+the noisy cries of many Arab drivers, we obtained seats in carriages,
+and were driven at breakneck speed over a good road down into the valley
+of Hinnom and up a long hill to the Jaffa gate.
+
+The party had been divided by the managers into sections for the various
+hotels, and each tourist had been given a card with the name of his
+hotel. Those who were to go to hotels outside the walls of the city
+proceeded directly to their destination in carriages. Those who were to
+stay within the walls descended from the conveyances in front of the
+Grand Hotel just within the Jaffa gate, and went the rest of the way on
+foot through narrow streets that carriages could not enter. The writer
+was assigned to the Casa Nova, or Hospitium Franciscanum, a monastery or
+hospital built expressly for the accommodation of pilgrims to the Holy
+City, and controlled and managed by Franciscan monks.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI.
+
+JERUSALEM.
+
+
+On Wednesday evening, after our arrival at Jerusalem, we visited a small
+store to purchase a guide-book of the city. But the merchant would not
+accept our French or English money, and we had no Turkish money. We laid
+the book down, but the dealer said, "You take the book and pay me
+another time."
+
+"Are you willing to trust a stranger?" we inquired.
+
+"Yes!" he replied, "I trust American any time. You may buy goods, all
+you want, three hundred dollars' worth. I trust you. When you go home to
+America, then you send me the money."
+
+"Were you never cheated?" we asked.
+
+"No," he answered, "I trust American many time. American always pay, but
+me not trust Frenchman; Frenchman forget."
+
+Glad to know that our countrymen bear such a good reputation, we took
+the book without giving our names, merely telling him that we were
+staying at the Casa Nova and would pay the next day.
+
+In our country we can travel from Maine to California with one kind of
+money. All that is necessary is to have plenty of it. But in these
+foreign lands the currency changes as we move from one country to
+another, so that we may have a pocket full of money and yet not be able
+to pay our bills. At Funchal, Portuguese money was current; at
+Gibraltar and at Malta, English money; at Granada, Spanish; at Algiers,
+French; at Athens, Greek; at Constantinople and Jerusalem, Turkish. In
+Cairo another coinage was current, and in Italy the Turkish and Egyptian
+coins left over had to be sold to the money changers or taken home as
+souvenirs. In large cities the hotels and larger stores accepted
+American, English, and French money at its value, but small dealers and
+individuals knew nothing of foreign coins and wanted payment in their
+own currency. As it was desirable at all times to have plenty of small
+coins on hand, the tourists soon became acquainted with the value of
+shillings and pence, francs and centimes, drachmae and lepta, piasters
+and paras. On our arrival at each port the managers of the tour and the
+purser of the vessel obtained a large number of small coins of that
+particular country so that the needs of the tourists could be promptly
+supplied.
+
+Our room at the Hospice was rather cold but my room-mate said there was
+one compensation, we need have no fear of the hotel's burning down and
+so need not be anxious as to the location of the fire escapes before
+retiring. The Casa Nova is a stone building with stone stairways and
+floors. In our room there was nothing inflammable but the mosquito
+nettings and lace draperies over the iron bedsteads. Two candles
+furnished us with light, hempen rugs covered portions of the black and
+white marble floor, a gilded crucifix hung on the painted stone wall,
+and two chairs, a small table, and a washstand completed the furnishing.
+
+[Illustration: I. ENTERED BY THE JAFFA GATE.]
+
+[Illustration: II. STOOD IN THE PALACE OF CAIAPHAS.]
+
+Early Thursday morning, with bright anticipations, we started for a
+visit to Bethlehem. The drive of six miles over a good limestone road
+was one of much interest. Our dragoman pointed out the well where the
+wise men, stooping to drink, saw the reflection of the star in the
+water before they beheld the star itself in the sky.
+
+[Illustration: CAMELS SINGLE AND CAMELS IN TRAINS.]
+
+"Why, how could that be?" inquired one of the party. "I thought the wise
+men were following the star."
+
+But the guide did not attempt to explain. It was his business to state
+facts in which he had believed all his life; not to enter into disputes
+with unbelievers as to the truth of his statements. He showed us a great
+rock in the road where Elijah, wearied in his flight, lay down to rest.
+It seemed to be a hard bed for a tired man, but we remembered that in
+olden times rocks and caves were selected for sleeping-places and stones
+often served for pillows.
+
+[Illustration: RECALLED TO MEMORY THE OLD LOVE STORY.]
+
+Camels were so numerous on the road that they lost their
+novelty,--camels single and camels in trains, with great hampers
+swinging at their sides laden with sacks of lime or charcoal, with
+building stone or cauliflower, with fish or flagstones, with chunks of
+wood and gnarled roots, with bags of grain and crates of vegetables,
+each camel carrying a quantity about equal to a one-horse wagon load.
+From a hill-top we caught a glimpse of the Dead Sea lying far below us
+in the valley twenty miles away. We met women on their way to market
+with heavy baskets of cauliflower and other vegetables poised on their
+heads, men bending under distended goat-skins filled with water or wine
+strapped to their shoulders, donkeys bearing basket-panniers filled with
+produce or laden with bags of grain heaped on their backs, Greek priests
+in black robes and high hats carrying white umbrellas for protection
+from the sun, and turbaned Arabs in brown robes plodding along with
+staves in their hands.
+
+The mountainous suburbs of the city are composed of limestone, and the
+limestone rocks cropped out on every side. The rocks protruding from the
+soil were of a light gray color, but the broken rocks, the fences, and
+the houses built of stone had changed to a light yellow shade from
+exposure to the weather. The fields were covered with stones except
+where little patches had been cleared with great labor and the stones
+built into fences surrounding the small plots. The hill-sides were
+almost bare of soil. Where the stones had been cleared away, the soil of
+decomposed limestone produced a luxuriant growth. The cauliflower
+carried to market was the finest we had ever seen. The few scattered
+olive trees in the valleys appeared strong and healthy in their light
+green foliage. The fig trees were bare, but occasional groups of almond
+trees were covered with pink bloom.
+
+[Illustration: IN THE NARROW STREETS OF BETHLEHEM.]
+
+During our drive we saw peasants plowing little plots with single
+donkeys and crooked wooden plows, or digging between rocks and around
+grape vines with clumsy, heavy-looking hoes. The grape vines were
+trimmed back to within three or four feet of the ground and were not
+supported or trellised. Women gathered the trimmings of the vines, bound
+them into fagots, placed the fagots on their heads, and carried them
+away to the city for firewood. Not a sprig was wasted. The old roots
+that were dug out of the ground were borne away in the same manner. In a
+country without forests and without coal everything that will burn is
+utilized. We saw girls carrying flat baskets on their heads and the
+guide satisfied our curiosity by explaining that the baskets contained
+dried cakes of camels' dung which the girls had gathered and were taking
+home for fuel.
+
+Rachel's tomb, situated four miles from Jerusalem, and about two miles
+from Bethlehem, recalled to memory the old love story: "And Jacob served
+Laban seven years for Rachel; and they seemed unto him but a few days,
+for the love he had for her."
+
+[Illustration: THE PEOPLE OF BETHLEHEM WERE BRIGHT AND CHEERFUL.]
+
+Cut in the rock, near Bethlehem is an ancient well, known as the well of
+David. From that point we obtained a good view of the square stone
+houses of the little town of Bethlehem, which is built on a sloping
+hill-side, and of the great spreading Church of the Nativity, which is
+the dominating feature of the place. Beyond the city we saw a verdant
+plain, where possibly Ruth gleaned, and, farther away, the hills where
+probably David led his flock to "green pastures" and the shepherds of
+later days received the "tidings of great joy."
+
+In the narrow streets of Bethlehem our driver shouted to men, women, and
+children to clear the way and make room for the carriages to pass
+through, snapping his whip at them if they did not quickly obey. When we
+arrived at the old Church of the Holy Nativity we were told that this
+venerable place is in reality a group of buildings, the original edifice
+having been built fifteen or more centuries ago, and many additions
+having been made in after years. We saw a structure of yellowish stone
+walls pierced with small windows which appeared to us more like a prison
+or a fortress than a place of worship. There were no stained glass
+windows. There was no imposing portal opening into the temple. On
+entering the sacred enclosure we passed through a door in the stone wall
+so low that we were compelled to stoop and so narrow that but one at a
+time might enter.
+
+"This doorway," said the guide, "should remind the pilgrims that the
+birthplace of the Savior is to be visited with humility and reverence."
+
+In the large, time-worn interior of the church, faded mosaics, huge
+columns, and stone floors presented a rather gloomy aspect. The tourists
+hastened through and descended to the crypt or vault underneath the
+church. This vault was paved with marble, and on a raised platform in
+the centre was a large, handsomely decorated altar. Suspended from the
+ceiling were many ancient lamps of curious make and smaller lamps
+hanging in festoons. On one side was a small room, called the Chapel of
+the Nativity, where thirty gold and silver lamps threw a dim, soft light
+on the scene below. In the pavement before an altar was a star of
+silver, and the words:
+
+    "Hic de Virgine Maria Jesus Christus natus est."
+
+Opposite and near the Chapel of the Nativity was another small,
+rock-walled room called the Chapel of the Manger. In this room the dim
+light of golden lamps revealed a white marble manger in which a large
+wax doll reclined.
+
+"The original wooden manger or cradle in which the infant Jesus reposed
+was taken to Rome," explained the guide. "If you return by way of Rome
+you may see it in the great church of Santa Maria Maggiore."
+
+"The care of the chapels, shrines, and holy places of the Church of the
+Nativity," he continued, "is appointed to the Latin, Greek, and Armenian
+churches. The space inside the building is divided. Each sect has its
+own particular portion to care for, and an intense jealousy exists among
+the rival religious bodies. If the rug of the Armenian is accidentally
+pushed over the Latin line, the action is resented. If the broom of the
+Latin while cleansing intrudes upon the Greek domain, there is trouble.
+Disputes have arisen from very slight causes, blows have been exchanged,
+rioting, blood-shed, and murder have followed. Priests at times have
+fought with priests until the Turkish soldiers intervened. Now, by the
+Sultan's orders, Moslem guards are stationed in the church to restrain
+the impetuous caretakers and prevent disturbances."
+
+[Illustration: THIS ROUND-TOPPED RIDGE IS CALLED THE MOUNT OF OLIVES.]
+
+In one of the underground chapels of the church, a dark and gloomy
+cavern cut out of the solid rock, the guide said: "In this grotto Saint
+Jerome passed thirty years fasting, praying, meditating, and writing.
+His last communion was taken here."
+
+We remembered that Domenichino's celebrated painting in the Vatican at
+Rome, called the "Last Communion of St. Jerome," represented the aged
+saint dying amid luxurious surroundings.
+
+When we came out of the church, bright-faced boys and girls urged us to
+buy their wares or accompany them to the shops. The little town appeared
+to prosper from the manufacture and sale of souvenirs of carved
+mother-of-pearl and olive-wood. Crosses, crucifixes, rosaries, beads,
+glove-boxes, writing desks, inkstands, napkin rings, paper knives, and
+forks were offered as genuine wood from the olive trees of David's town,
+and the mother-of-pearl mementoes were carved with minute scenes of
+events in the life of Christ and of places in the Holy Land.
+
+After the purchase of olive wood souvenirs had been made, the drive was
+continued to the Pools which Solomon had built to collect water for use
+in the Temple. These are situated among the hills about eight miles from
+Jerusalem. The stone walls of the reservoirs were so well constructed by
+Solomon's architects three thousand years ago that to-day the masonry
+is in almost perfect condition. The Pools, we were informed are not in
+use at the present time, although water is conveyed in pipes to
+Jerusalem from springs near-by.
+
+[Illustration: A GARDEN SURROUNDED BY AN IRON FENCE.]
+
+The glare of the sun on the white road and gray rocks, the lack of green
+in the bare landscape, and the fine dust from the limestone caused a
+slight smarting in the eyes of the travelers. So it was with relief that
+in the suburbs of the city, about half a mile from the Damascus gate, we
+descended a long flight of stone steps into the shade of an excavation
+in the rocks about twenty feet in depth. This open chamber, known as the
+Tombs of the Kings, is about ninety feet square. At one side is a
+doorway in the rock four feet high and thirty inches wide, and beside
+the doorway stood a huge stone, rounded at the corners, that might, by
+the united efforts of several men, be rolled in front of the entrance so
+as to close it completely. We crawled through the hole in the rock and
+entered a cavern. The candles of the guides revealed on each side of the
+cavern small rooms or caves containing shelves or apertures which had
+been used as the sepulchres of the Kings.
+
+Jerusalem, situated on four hills, is surrounded by hills which are
+separated from the city and from each other by deep valleys or gulleys.
+We drove from Jerusalem to the Mount of Olives over a well constructed
+modern limestone road that wound among these hills and valleys in long
+curves and horseshoes in order to reach a place that seemed almost
+within a stone's throw.
+
+[Illustration: CAREFULLY TENDED AND GUARDED BY FRANCISCAN MONKS.]
+
+"The summit of this round-topped ridge, which is called the Mount of
+Olives, is owned by Russia," explained the guide, "and the Russians have
+erected an observation tower, a chapel, and other buildings upon it.
+These buildings are surrounded by a courtyard enclosed within high stone
+walls, and a fee must be paid at the gate in order to gain admittance.
+Within the court a small circular pavilion covers the place from which,
+it is claimed, the ascension of the Savior was made."
+
+As we approached the gate, a group of Russian men and women were seen
+coming sadly away. We were informed later that these peasants, after
+tramping a long distance on a holy pilgrimage in order to kneel down and
+kiss the stone that marked the sacred spot of the Ascension of their
+Lord, were refused admittance because they had not the required fee to
+pay for entrance. In a Roman Catholic church, built on the spot on
+Olivet where Christ is said to have taught His disciples to pray, the
+Lord's Prayer is displayed on charts in large letters in thirty-six
+different languages, so that pilgrims from all parts of the world can
+read the prayer in their own tongue.
+
+From the summit of Olivet, which is two hundred feet above the city of
+Jerusalem, we looked down over the Holy City; but a finer panoramic view
+of the surrounding country was obtained afterwards from the Russian
+observation tower. The climbing of the two hundred stone steps which
+lead to the top of the tower was not easy, but we felt amply repaid by
+the magnificence of the view. Near the foot of the mountain lay the
+Garden of Gethsemane. Beyond and four hundred feet below us, the
+little brook Kedron trickled through the narrow Valley of Jehoshaphat.
+Across the valley on the opposite heights of Mount Moriah, only half a
+mile away in a direct line, prominent in the foreground, stood the
+Mosque of Omar, and back of it rose the square roof and round domes of
+the city buildings. Away off to the east, deep down in the valley, we
+could see a portion of the Dead Sea and could trace the Valley of the
+River Jordan.
+
+[Illustration: AND A FEW LEAVES FROM ONE OF THE ANCIENT OLIVE TREES.]
+
+We walked from the summit of the Mount of Olives down a steep, rocky,
+crooked, narrow lane, hemmed in by stone walls, to the foot of the
+slope, as it is considered too dangerous for the tourists to remain in
+the carriages while descending this short cut to a lower road. The
+carriages rejoined us later. At the foot of the hill there was a piece
+of land about half an acre in extent enclosed by a white stone fence.
+Within the enclosure was a garden surrounded by an iron fence. Between
+the stone fence and the iron railing was a wide path. Within the garden
+were eight gnarled olive trees that appeared to be of great age, and
+flower beds which were carefully tended and guarded by Franciscan monks.
+It was not necessary for the guide to tell us that this was the Garden
+of Gethsemane. Small shrines with pictures above them, fourteen in all,
+representing the fourteen traditionary stations of the Via Dolorosa,
+were arranged at intervals along the path around the garden. Before
+these shrines pilgrims were kneeling in prayer. As we were leaving the
+garden an old monk with tonsured head, in long brown robe girt about
+with a hempen cord and having sandals laced on his bare feet,
+presented each, of us with a flower from the garden and a few leaves
+from one of the ancient olive trees.
+
+[Illustration: I. BETHANY IS A POOR LITTLE VILLAGE.]
+
+[Illustration: II. THE EMPTY TOMB OF THE RISEN VIRGIN.]
+
+The Tomb and Chapel of the Virgin, which is but a short distance from
+Gethsemane, had a venerable aspect, and the olive trees surrounding it
+were patriarchal in appearance. We crossed the sunken court and
+descended a broad staircase of sixty steps to a gloomy chapel which
+seemed to have been excavated in the rock.
+
+"These tombs on the right are the tombs of the parents of the Virgin,
+Joachim and Anna," said the guide as we halted in the dim light. "That
+tomb on the left is the tomb of Joseph, the husband of Mary. The small
+chapel at the end of the grotto contains the empty tomb of the risen
+virgin."
+
+On the road to Bethany we passed many trains of pack mules, twenty or
+thirty in a train, and caravans of camels striding along in single file.
+A light rope or chain connected the leading camel with the others and
+kept them from straggling.
+
+The Arab who drove our carriage told us that he was a scholar. He
+explained by stating that he could converse fluently in four languages,
+besides his own native Arabic tongue. These languages were Turkish,
+Russian, Latin, and French, and in addition, he knew enough English to
+give some information to the tourists. The linguistic ignorance of the
+occupants of his carriage seemed to impress him with the idea that
+education in America is neglected.
+
+[Illustration: IN A STREET IN BETHANY A LOCAL GUIDE WAS WAITING.]
+
+Bethany, barely two miles distant from Jerusalem, is a poor little
+village with steep, rough, dirty lanes and a number of old and
+dilapidated small stone houses amid broken walls of other houses which
+evidently have been equally insignificant. One of these piles was
+pointed out by the Bethany guides as the ruins of the home of Mary and
+Martha, and we were then taken to a narrow lane where a dark and slimy
+stairway led down to the reputed tomb of Lazarus. Our dragoman, who
+firmly believed in the traditions of the country, said that he could not
+vouch for the statements made by the Bethany local guides.
+
+[Illustration: AT THE ENTRANCE TO THE TOMB OF LAZARUS.]
+
+Returning to Jerusalem, we visited the so-called palace of Caiaphas,
+the High Priest. This palace is an excavated ruin. Steps lead down to
+the marble floor, which is fifteen or twenty feet below the present
+level of the street.
+
+[Illustration: THE RUINS OF THE HOME OF MARY AND MARTHA.]
+
+"The circle on the pavement," said the custodian, "marks the place
+where Peter stood with the soldiers, warming his hands by the little
+fire which they had kindled in a brazier, when he was accused by the
+maid of being a companion and follower of the Prisoner then on trial
+before the High Priest. The stone pillar that you see in the courtyard
+of the palace is the stone on which the cock was perched when its
+crowing quickened Peter's memory, softened his heart, and brought bitter
+tears to his eyes."
+
+After leaving the palace we followed the guide through a rough narrow
+street to a view point on the wall. Far below us lay the Valley of
+Jehoshaphat, the village of Siloam, and the site of the pool to which
+Jesus sent the blind man to wash.
+
+"The walk to the pool through the rough and crooked streets would be
+difficult now for a man with good sight," remarked one of the tourists,
+"how much more so would it be to a blind man groping his way."
+
+Permission to visit the Temple Area, or Haram, as it is called by the
+Moslems, had been obtained from the Turkish authorities by the payment
+of heavy fees. We proceeded to that place on foot accompanied by the
+dragoman. At the gate of the Area the authorities furnished Moslem
+guides to conduct the visitors through the enclosure, and sent Turkish
+soldiers to accompany the party to restrain any possible irreverent or
+unseemly conduct while within the holy precincts.
+
+[Illustration: I. WITHIN THE TEMPLE AREA.]
+
+[Illustration: II. THE AREA EXTENDS OVER THIRTY-FIVE ACRES.]
+
+"The Temple Area, which probably covers the place where was once the
+Court of the Temple," explained the dragoman, as we halted within the
+grounds, "is thirty-five acres in extent, about one thousand feet wide
+by two thousand feet in length, and is surrounded by high walls. It is
+revered by the Moslems as one of their most holy places. This is the
+Mount Moriah hallowed by the sacrifices of Abraham, glorified by the
+prayers of King David, consecrated by the Temple of Solomon, and made
+additionally sacred by the ascension of the Prophet of Allah. The
+Moslems forbid the entrance of Jews into the Haram, although the Jews
+have as great reverence for the place as the Moslems."
+
+In the centre of the Area, on a raised embankment or platform, paved
+with marble slabs, stood a handsome octagonal building covered below the
+window line with marbles of various hues and above that line by
+decorated tiles of blue-and-white porcelain edged with green. As we
+stood on the marble pavement and gazed at the tiling mellowed by age,
+and at the round lead-covered dome above, the guide continued his
+explanations.
+
+"This edifice, called by the Moslems the Dome of the Rock," said he,
+"but better known as the Mosque of Omar, is built on the site of the
+Temple of Herod, and also on the site of the Temple of Solomon, which
+preceded that of Herod. Each side of the octagon is sixty-six feet in
+length, and the top of the dome is one hundred and fifteen feet above
+this platform."
+
+Underneath a small pavilion at the entrance, attendants laced slippers
+to our feet and then conducted us into the Mosque. On the floor lay
+precious Oriental rugs. Overhead in the dome, the light entered through
+richly stained glass windows, tinting and beautifying the interior and
+disclosing the mosaic decorations of the ceiling and the Arabic
+inscriptions on the walls. At one side was an exquisitely carved wooden
+pulpit inlaid with ivory and mother-of-pearl. In the centre of the
+Mosque a great rock, at least fifty feet long and almost as wide, rose
+to the height of our heads. A beautifully designed, gilded and bronzed
+iron railing prevented infidel fingers from touching the rock.
+
+[Illustration: WE WILL TAKE THE PICTURE AND INCLUDE THE TURKS IN IT.]
+
+"This mountain-top, the crown of Mount Moriah," said the Moslem
+dragoman, as we stood reverently before it, "is the place where the arm
+of Abraham was stayed as he lifted the knife to slay his son. This rock,
+in David's time, was the threshing floor of Araunah, whose oxen
+trampled out the grain upon it until the time when King David purchased
+the land and built here an altar to the Lord. When King Solomon erected
+the temple upon the site prepared and dedicated by his father David,
+this Holy Rock became the altar upon which the priests of the temple
+offered sacrifices. When Mohammed, the Prophet of God, took his flight
+to Heaven he rose from this sanctified place, which is nearer to Heaven
+than any other spot on earth, leaving as a memorial the impression of
+his foot which you now see there in the rock. The print of the hand in
+the rock near the footprint was made by the angel Gabriel when he
+prevented the rock from following the Prophet in his ascent."
+
+At the foot of the flight of steps which the tourists descended on their
+way from the marble platform of the Dome of the Rock to the Mosque of El
+Aksa, the tourists encountered Turkish photographers, who, hoping that
+the Americans would gladly make use of their services, had been
+patiently awaiting their arrival. But the tourists were well supplied
+with their own outfits, and these amateurs, disdaining the offered
+professional services, secured snapshots themselves.
+
+"What!" said one of the amateurs indignantly, "let the Turks take us?
+No! let some of the party stay on the steps and we will take the picture
+and include the Turks in it."
+
+While returning through the extensive grounds of the Haram, one of the
+tourists lighted a pipe. Immediately a Moslem guard approached and with
+unintelligible words, made it known by his frowning face and threatening
+gestures, that the pipe must be extinguished.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XII.
+
+THE CHURCH OF THE HOLY SEPULCHRE.
+
+
+The floor of the vast Church of the Holy Sepulchre is below the level of
+Christian Street. We descended to the church through a narrow alley
+about a hundred feet in length, which by slopes and steps led downward.
+On each side of this alley peddlers had stands for the sale of beads,
+rosaries, crucifixes, candles, and souvenirs, which they earnestly
+besought the visitors to buy. The church is so surrounded by other
+buildings that it could not be seen until we arrived at the foot of the
+alley, where a few steps to the left led down to a wide stone paved
+court. Even then only the rough stone facade and the top of the dome
+were visible. The door was guarded by Turkish soldiers, but they did not
+object to our entrance.
+
+Within the Church, in the centre of the vestibule, we paused beside a
+marble slab six feet in length, elevated slightly above the stone floor.
+A canopy overspread the marble and at the sides of the canopy stood six
+immense ornamented silver candlesticks rising higher than our heads. In
+these were tall candles.
+
+"This is the Stone of Unction," said the guide. "On this marble the body
+of Jesus lay while it was anointed for burial. Two of these candlesticks
+belong to the Greek Church, two to the Armenian Church, and two to the
+Latin Church. In this holy edifice each religious sect claims the
+privilege of taking part in the worship and in the care of the sacred
+places."
+
+Not far from the vestibule the guide halted, and pointing to a circle on
+the stone floor, said: "This circle marks the place where the Mother of
+Jesus stood at the time of the anointing."
+
+The Church of the Holy Sepulchre, we ascertained, is composed of many
+parts. A rotunda, sixty-six feet in diameter, occupies the center. Above
+this rises the dome, supported by eighteen large piers. On one side of
+this round room, an opening leads into a Greek church; on the other
+side, entrances between the piers lead into small chapels. Grouped
+around outside of these, but connected with the central rotunda, church,
+and small chapels, are other chapels, rooms, and sacred places, the
+whole covering a space of over two acres. In the centre of the rotunda,
+directly underneath the dome, stands a small marble building twenty-six
+feet long by eighteen feet broad, richly decorated with carvings,
+inscriptions, and figures of angels. At one end of this building there
+is a small door guarded by huge bronze candlesticks ten feet in height
+and over-hung with gold and silver lamps of curious oriental design.
+Three golden crosses surmount the front of this miniature building: one
+of Greek form furnished by the Greek Church; one of Roman form, by the
+Latins; and one of the Syrian shape, by the Armenians.
+
+"This small building," said the guide, "encloses the place of the
+Sepulchre. The interior is divided into two parts. The first you will
+enter is the Chapel of the Angel. The Tomb of the Savior is in the
+second part."
+
+[Illustration: I. ENTRANCE TO THE CHURCH OF THE SEPULCHRE.]
+
+[Illustration: II. THE VIA DOLOROSA.]
+
+Passing between the lines of huge candlesticks and underneath the
+clusters of overhanging lamps, we entered the small doorway and were in
+the Chapel of the Angel. In the centre of this small room stands the
+stone upon which, the guide said, the angel sat after rolling it away
+from the entrance to the Savior's tomb. Stooping low we passed singly
+through the narrow opening to the tomb. This is a small chamber about
+six feet square, the floor and walls of which are covered with white
+marble. At the right hand side of the tomb a marble slab about two feet
+wide extends the length of the chamber. This marble is much worn by the
+millions of kisses that have been tearfully and reverently pressed upon
+it by the pilgrims of many centuries. Two score of golden lamps,
+continually burning overhead, shed a soft but brilliant light upon the
+tomb. Our visit to the interior of the tomb was short; for not more than
+five persons may stand in it at one time, and other pilgrims from
+other lands were waiting their turn to enter.
+
+[Illustration: A CRUST IN HER HAND, A GRIN ON HER FACE.]
+
+[Illustration: WE WALKED THROUGH THE NARROW VIA DOLOROSA.]
+
+For a small fee the local guides provided us with tapers, for some of
+the chapels and grottoes within the vast cluster of the buildings of the
+church were dark, and in the gloomy recesses the holy places could not
+be seen without a light. In the dark grotto of the Syrian chapel our
+tapers shed a dim light on two tombs, which the guide said were those of
+Nicodemus and Joseph of Arimathea.
+
+"This is the Chapel of the Apparition," explained the guide, after
+leading us to another part of the church. "Here the Lord appeared to
+Mary, His mother, after the Resurrection. In a niche beside the high
+altar is a hole in the wall. If you hold your taper up to it you may see
+within the wall a part of the column to which the Savior was bound
+during the Flagellation. You may touch the sacred column with this round
+stick, provided for the purpose, if you wish to do so. The stick, being
+worn smooth by the numberless kisses that have been pressed upon it by
+the pilgrims after touching the holy column, can do it no harm."
+
+In a vestibule outside the chapel a star in the marble floor marks the
+place where Christ appeared to Mary Magdalene after the Resurrection,
+and a second star a few feet beyond marks the spot where Mary stood when
+she recognized the risen Lord.
+
+We passed from the rotunda into the Church of the Crusaders or Greek
+Church, through a wide opening directly opposite the door of the Holy
+Sepulchre. In this large chapel the walls and ceilings, the seats of
+the choir, the high altar, and the seat of the Patriarch in the rear
+of the altar, are composed of precious woods beautifully carved and
+ornamented with gold and silver and jewels. Hundreds of superb golden
+and silver lamps, varying in form and design, hang suspended from the
+ceiling at various heights. In the centre of the chapel, standing in the
+middle of a fancifully designed circle on the checkered marble floor, is
+an urn containing a marble ball.
+
+[Illustration: THE VERY STONES HIS SACRED FEET HAVE PRESSED.]
+
+"This ball marks the centre of the world," explained the guide, as we
+halted beside the urn. "About eight centuries ago certain wise and holy
+men ascertained, by calculation or by inspiration, that this spot is the
+exact centre of the world. It was marked in this manner so that the
+pilgrims coming here from all parts of the earth might see it and carry
+the knowledge of the wonderful discovery back with them to their various
+countries."
+
+Beyond the Greek Chapel we descended, by aid of our burning tapers, a
+flight of thirty stone steps to the ancient, dimly-lit Chapel of St.
+Helena.
+
+"When the Empress Helena was inspired to search for the true cross,"
+said the guide, "she employed workmen to excavate here. There is the
+seat on which she sat while superintending the search, and there below
+us is the excavation in which she found the three crosses, the crown of
+thorns, the nails, and the inscription."
+
+We peered into the darkness below but could see only a gloomy hole about
+eight feet deep and twenty feet across, a short flight of steps cut in
+the rock, and an altar at one side.
+
+[Illustration: THE OLD STREET OF SORROW LIES BURIED TWENTY FEET BELOW.]
+
+Reascending to the main floor, we halted at the Chapel of the Mocking.
+There the guide showed us the stone upon which the Jews made Jesus sit
+while they crowned Him with thorns. The guide then led the way up a
+flight of steps to the Chapel of Golgotha, which is within the great
+structure of the church but upon the summit of a rock fifteen feet
+higher than the main floor. At one side of this chapel, where the rock
+itself projects slightly above the floor, a figure of the Christ in
+dying agony is suspended upon the cross, and at the foot of the cross
+stand the figures of Mary, His mother, and St. John, both dejected and
+sorrowful. These figures appear to be made of gold and silver. The
+crowns on their heads are covered with diamonds, rubies, emeralds, and
+other precious stones. A hole in the rock surrounded by a gold plate
+marks the place where the original cross stood. On the right and left
+are the holes where stood the crosses of the thieves. A movable gold
+plate covers the crevice in the rock caused by the earthquake. In this
+chapel the pictures on the walls are encircled with diamonds and other
+precious stones. Adjoining this room is the Chapel of the Crucifixion,
+where, as the guide informed us, Christ was nailed to the cross, and
+close by is the place where the Virgin Mary stood during the
+Crucifixion.
+
+Descending a flight of steps to the main floor, we entered a small
+cavern-like chamber.
+
+"This," said the guide, "is the Tomb of Adam, and the little chapel
+beyond is the Tomb of Melchizedek."
+
+When one of the ladies, doubting the truth of these traditions,
+excitedly began to remonstrate with the guide, a clergyman in the party
+said to her: "It is not worth while to enter into a dispute with the
+guide. You cannot convince him that his assertions are incorrect. Let us
+leave the topic for discussion in the evening when we cannot go out
+sight-seeing."
+
+We departed from the Church of the Sepulchre with the intention of
+returning without a guide to inspect portions of the building more
+leisurely. Preceded by the guide, we walked through the narrow Via
+Dolorosa, pausing a moment at each of the fourteen stations, which mark
+the location of the historical and traditional events that occurred in
+the street of sorrow. After the guide had explained the route, one of
+the tourists devoutly said: "Little did I think a year ago that I should
+walk along the very path that has been stained by the blood drops of the
+Savior on His way to the Cross, and tread perhaps on the very stones
+that His sacred feet have pressed."
+
+[Illustration: AT THE ENTRANCE TO SOLOMON'S QUARRIES.]
+
+A few minutes later we were admitted to a convent on the Via Dolorosa.
+One of the gray-gowned nuns, after exhibiting and offering for sale
+laces and embroideries made by the sisters, led us to an excavation in
+the rear of the convent. There a courteous Abbess met us, and said: "The
+excavation made here uncovered a part of the original Via Dolorosa. The
+old way lies buried twenty feet below the level of the modern street
+known by that name, and at this place is one hundred feet to the right
+of the one on which you were walking."
+
+"You must bear in mind the history of Jerusalem," continued the Abbess
+in reply to our questions. "Forty years after the Crucifixion Titus
+captured the city, demolished the buildings, and slaughtered the
+inhabitants. Jerusalem became 'heaps' and a 'desolation' as predicted by
+the holy prophets. For a century thereafter a village of huts built upon
+the ruins occupied the site of the city; then the idolatrous Emperor
+Hadrian rebuilt the city, laying out the streets to suit his pagan
+ideas, and for two centuries it was a pagan city whose people were
+devoted to the worship of strange gods and regarded not the sacred
+places. Three hundred years after the Ascension of our Savior, the
+blessed St. Helena, mother of the Emperor Constantine, made a pilgrimage
+from Constantinople to Jerusalem. Inspired with holy zeal, she gave
+orders for the erection of churches on the sites of the Nativity at
+Bethlehem and the Ascension at Olivet. She prayerfully sought for the
+sacred tomb in which the Lord had been laid, and her efforts were
+rewarded by the finding of the true cross. She cleared away the
+accumulated rubbish and built the chapel on the holy ground, and that
+chapel has grown into the great Church of the Holy Sepulchre. Afterwards
+the locations of the events on the way to the cross were marked on the
+modern street to correspond as nearly as possible to the places on the
+ancient street which lay buried many feet below. The finding of a part
+of the true Via Dolorosa in the excavation within our enclosure has been
+a blessing to the convent."
+
+[Illustration: WITH FACE TURNED TO THE WALL, KISSING IT AND MUTTERING
+PRAYERS.]
+
+The Abbess deserved and received more than spoken thanks for her
+courtesy. We realized then the truth of her last words.
+
+During our walk we visited an old Armenian church, which was gaudily
+decorated with red brocade hangings and very antiquated paintings
+quaintly representing scenes from Bible history. In the court-yard of
+the church a young Armenian kindly offered us a pitcher of water, which
+he said had been brought from a spring outside the city for the use of
+the monks in the adjoining convent. We received it most gratefully, for
+the drinking water of Jerusalem is noted for impurity, and, as we had
+been cautioned against it, we had abstained from drinking water for
+three days.
+
+"Will it be difficult for the tourists to find their way through the
+narrow crooked streets of the city without a guide?" inquired one of the
+ladies of the dragoman at the noon hour.
+
+"Oh no!" he replied. "Please open your map. I notice you have one. You
+see that the city is divided into four marked sections by the two
+principal streets which cross each other at right angles: David street
+extending from the Jaffa Gate at the west, through the center of the
+city, to the Temple Area at the east; and Damascus street extending from
+the Damascus Gate on the north, through the center of the city, to the
+Zion Gate on the south. The bazaars and little stores that tourists
+visit are on these two streets, on Christian street near the Church of
+the Holy Sepulchre, and in the vicinity of the Jaffa Gate. The Church of
+the Holy Sepulchre is in the north-west section of the city, known as
+the Christian Quarter; the Via Dolorosa passes through the north-east
+section, called the Moslem Quarter; the Temple Area is on the east side;
+the Wailing Place of the Jews is near the south-west corner of the
+Temple Area, in the south-east or Jewish Quarter; and the Citadel is in
+the south-west of Armenian Quarter. Jerusalem is not a large city. David
+Street is only half a mile in length, and Damascus Street from the gate
+on the north to the gate on the south is but three-fourths of a mile
+long."
+
+"This afternoon," said the guide at the noon hour on Friday, "those of
+you who desire to do so may go with me to the Wailing Place of the Jews.
+The Turkish authorities do not permit Jews to enter the Temple Area so
+the Jews, on Friday afternoons, congregate in a narrow court, outside
+and adjoining the western wall which encloses the Temple Area, to mourn
+over the downfall of their beloved Zion and pray for the return of
+Jewish dominion over the land of their fathers, and for the renewal of
+the ancient glory of the City of David."
+
+When we arrived at the Wailing Place, we found about a hundred Jewish
+men, women, and children assembled in the court, with faces turned to
+the wall, the men at one end of the court, the women at the other. Some
+of the mourners pressed their faces against the wall, kissing it and
+muttering prayers; some, as the guide explained to us, were reading the
+Talmud; some reciting verses from the Lamentations of Jeremiah; and some
+chanting the penitential Psalms of David. Others we saw weeping, the
+tears running down their faces, while one or two looked around with
+curious gaze at the strangers.
+
+[Illustration: PITIED THOSE MISERABLE LEPERS AT THE GATE.]
+
+Thence we returned through portions of the Mohammedan and Jewish
+quarters of the city. The narrow streets through which we passed,--if
+passage-ways ten feet wide may be called streets,--are lined with little
+stores. The stocks of provisions, groceries, bread, vegetables, and
+general merchandise for native consumption are displayed in the open
+fronts of the shallow store-rooms and the proprietors sit or stand
+outside waiting for customers, like huge spiders waiting for their prey,
+or with loud voices and many gesticulations bargain with the buyers.
+
+The streets of the Mohammedan Quarter are filthy; those of the Jewish
+Quarter are worse.
+
+"Are these alleys ever swept or cleaned?" inquired one of the disgusted
+visitors.
+
+"Oh, yes!" answered the guide, "the city, being built on the hills, has
+a natural drainage. Whenever there is a heavy rain the flowing water
+washes the streets."
+
+"Well," said the visitor, "the city of Constantinople has the reputation
+of being the filthiest city in Europe, but it has a brigade of canine
+street cleaners to assist the rainfalls in cleaning the thoroughfares.
+If the city of Jerusalem were in Europe, it could easily claim the
+leading place in respect to filth; for dogs are few here and heavy rains
+do not appear to be frequent."
+
+The tramp through these quarters was not agreeable to any of the senses.
+The ears were annoyed with the jargon of many dialects; the harsh voices
+of the natives, the loud exclamations of the dealers, and the whining
+cries of the beggars for backsheesh. The eyes were offended by the sight
+of the crowds of dirty beggars, who stretched out hands in appeal and
+tried to clutch the garments of the tourists with their dirty fingers,
+until disgust drove away all feelings of pity. The odors from the foul
+thoroughfares, from the messes of soft cheese and mixtures of eatables
+offered for sale, from the discarded and decaying cauliflower leaves
+under neath the stalls, from the pipes of Turkish tobacco, and from the
+donkeys and unbathed human beings with whom the tourists came in close
+contact, were inhaled with loathing. The uneven, stone-cobbled paving of
+the narrow streets without sidewalks, the steps up and down the grades,
+and the slippery condition of the muddy surface when wet caused weary
+feet.
+
+"I will not give away another piaster," exclaimed a lady whose purse had
+been drawn upon frequently during our tramp. "I never met such
+disagreeable beggars. There were many beggars in other cities, but they
+did not whine and display their dirty rags so disgustingly as these do.
+I pitied those miserable lepers at the gate, but when I threw them some
+money they crowded around and tried to touch me with their diseased
+hands, instead of keeping at a distance and crying, 'Unclean! Unclean!'"
+
+The beggars were the most objectionable feature of the city; they
+persisted in following visitors and it was almost impossible to drive
+them away. When rid of one lot, others soon took their place. Repulsive
+cripples insisted on calling attention to their deformities; sore-eyed
+children clamored for assistance; and little tots with dirty,
+fly-covered faces, shrilly prattled "Backsheesh." The streets were full
+of these wretched creatures; they congregated near the sacred places and
+there the clamor was so annoying that the tourists had little
+opportunity for contemplation until they were inside the buildings and
+away from the beggars' entreaties.
+
+[Illustration: PILGRIMS FROM EVERY QUARTER OF THE GLOBE.]
+
+We made several visits to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre in order to
+observe the people; to view quietly and leisurely the gorgeous
+decorations, especially those in the Greek Chapel where each visit
+disclosed new beauties; and to see the jewels, precious gems, and
+pictures encircled in diamonds, in the Chapel of Golgotha.
+
+[Illustration: PASSED OUT THROUGH THE DAMASCUS GATE.]
+
+During one of these visits we sat for awhile on a bench by the wall of
+the church not far from the entrance to the Sepulchre. It was
+interesting to note the diversity of costumes and to watch the
+difference in the behavior of the tourists and pilgrims of the various
+nationalities.
+
+[Illustration: I. FIELDS WERE COVERED WITH STONES.]
+
+[Illustration: II. FAR BELOW LAY THE VALLEY OF JEHOSHAPHAT.]
+
+"Notice that Russian group," said a companion as a party of Russian
+pilgrims entered the church.
+
+These people from the North, long-haired, heavy-bearded, long-booted,
+heavy-coated men, and short-frocked, heavy-shod women had come there, we
+could plainly see, on a holy pilgrimage to the tomb of their Savior,
+believing and trusting in the reality of everything they saw. At the
+Stone of Unction they prostrated themselves and kissed the stone slab,
+and as they rose we could see the shaggy-bearded men wiping away the
+tears with their rough hands. Then, with uncovered heads, they slowly
+approached the entrance to the Sepulchre, bowed down, crossed
+themselves, knelt inside, and after kissing the marble tomb, backed out,
+bowing and crossing themselves until well away from the tomb.
+
+"The people of other nationalities outwardly show more reverence for the
+sacred places than do those of our own country," commented my companion.
+"The guards have just censured that group of Americans on the other side
+of the room. I could not hear what was said, but the actions of the
+guards spoke louder than words, and I noticed that the loud talking
+ceased at once."
+
+The party of Americans came laughing and chatting toward the Sepulchre
+and entered the tomb without any appearance of reverence in their
+manner,--a striking contrast to the devout Russian pilgrims. Other
+Americans, however, following, entered the tomb silently, and came out
+with a look of awe upon their faces. One of these told us that he had
+placed some postal cards and letters on the tomb to be blessed by
+contact with it before mailing them to his friends. Another had taken
+some bunches of flowers and laid them on the tomb for the same purpose
+before pressing them for souvenirs. A party of Germans stood near us for
+awhile, apparently arguing in low tones over some statement of the
+guide, and then quietly and with uncovered heads advanced and entered
+the Sepulchre. Some Italians knelt for a long time before the door, and
+Africans, Greeks, and natives of countries unknown to us, bowed or
+crossed their foreheads or breasts before the entrance. No other
+nationality, however, showed such zeal and intensity of feeling as did
+the Russian peasants.
+
+On Saturday afternoon we visited the Church of the Holy Sepulchre to be
+present at the special service held on that day. We found that the
+number of guards at the door had been doubled, and that companies of
+armed Turkish soldiers had been stationed within to preserve order in
+the assembled throng of sight-seers and worshipers and to keep a
+passage-way open through which the expected processions might pass.
+Pushing our way through the crowd we obtained a good position behind
+some Syrian women and children who, attired in gala costumes, held
+unlighted candles in their hands. At the Place of Sepulchre the oriental
+lamps above the door and the candles in the huge candlesticks had been
+lighted for the special service, brilliantly illuminating the marble
+front of that small building and bringing into clear relief every detail
+of the carved ornamentation. In the Greek Chapel the golden lamps and
+the candles at the altar were burning, and the chapel was ablaze with
+reflected glory.
+
+"They are coming," whispered some one as the tramping of feet on the
+stone floor was heard.
+
+A procession of Greek priests in gorgeous garments, swinging censers of
+smoking incense and bearing aloft a golden cross, marched to the
+Sepulchre, made obeisance there, then proceeded slowly around the
+building several times and entered the Greek Chapel where a short
+service was held. After the Greeks had left the building, a procession
+of Armenian priests appeared clad in black silk robes and peculiar
+looking black silk hoods draped over their heads. They were led by a
+venerable Patriarch arrayed in a magnificent embroidered robe. The
+Patriarch knelt and kissed the Stone of Unction, then the procession
+marched singing to the Sepulchre, which they entered, two priests at a
+time. After this part of the ceremony was concluded the priests marched
+singing three times around the room, while a bell in the gallery merrily
+clanged an accompaniment. When the Armenians had withdrawn, a procession
+of Roman Catholics entered singing. The chanting was accompanied softly
+by an organ in an adjoining chapel. The censer bearers waved their
+smoking bowls until the whole place was fragrant with the odor of the
+incense. Tonsured monks with sandaled feet, in gowns of brown, girt with
+hempen cord; censer bearers, cross bearers, brazier bearers, and choir
+boys in white embroidered surplices and skirts of scarlet; priests in
+black; bishops in purple; and higher dignitaries in capes of fur and
+long-trained robes,--all these marched round and round bearing lighted
+candles and chanting the ritual to the strains of the organ, and then
+proceeded toward the Latin Chapel. Our Syrian neighbor and her children
+lighted their candles and joined other worshipers with candles in the
+rear of this procession, and we followed to the Chapel where all knelt
+for service.
+
+[Illustration: DAVID STREET IS ONLY HALF A MILE IN LENGTH.]
+
+Palestine appeared to us to be a land where history and tradition were
+so curiously mixed that it was difficult to know where history ended and
+tradition began. During our tramps around the city of Jerusalem and its
+vicinity the guides pointed out the spring where the Virgin Mary washed
+the clothes of the infant Jesus in the same way that we saw other women
+in the East washing clothes on the banks of public streams; the hill of
+evil counsel where the avaricious disciple had been tempted by gold to
+betray his Master, and the field where the horror-stricken traitor ended
+his life; the place just without the Gate of St. Stephen where the
+sainted Stephen knelt and prayed for his persecutors until the stones
+cast by the infuriated Jews crushed out his life; the spot where the
+Apostle James was beheaded, commemorated by the church of St. James
+which now stands on that location; the large room outside the Zion Gate
+in which the Lord washed the disciples' feet and partook of the Last
+Supper; the tomb of the wayward, long-haired Absalom, and the mausoleum
+that covers the resting-place of his father, King David; the footprint
+of Jesus in the rock and the hole made by His staff on the Mount of
+Olives; the imprints of the Savior's feet in the rocky floor made during
+the time of the scourging; the site of the house in which the Virgin
+lived with the disciple John after the Crucifixion.
+
+Palestine was noted in olden times as a land flowing with milk and
+honey. At the Casa Nova we drank of the milk, the milk of the
+black-haired goats that fed along the hillsides, and ate of the honey,
+which was of delicious flavor. The Syrian waiters who served our meals
+and also cared for our bedrooms were picturesquely dressed in long gowns
+of blue striped material falling to their ankles, and encircled with
+bright sashes, and these men at all times, whether making beds or
+serving tables, wore on their heads the red fez of Turkish subjects. The
+managers of the Hospice, the Franciscan monks, wore the garb in which
+the monks of that order are always seen, brown gown, rope girdle, rosary
+with pendant cross, and sandals.
+
+On Sunday a cold rain fell during the day, making it unpleasant for
+sight-seeing and confining the travelers to the house during most of the
+day.
+
+"How disappointing this is to be kept in the house by the rain,"
+exclaimed a discontented tourist while watching the rain drops glide
+down the window-pane.
+
+"Have you thought," said another who was busily engaged with guide-book
+and pencil, "that until to-day not one unpleasant day has interfered
+with our trip? The temperature has been neither uncomfortably warm nor
+disagreeably cold, but just delightful for the exertion of
+sight-seeing."
+
+The tourists having made a request for some heat in the house, one of
+the gowned Arab servants carried a brazier into the reception room,
+placed a handful of charcoal in it and lighted a fire. As we gathered
+around the little fire trying to warm our hands, one could realize the
+scene many centuries ago, in the Palace of Caiaphas, when the soldiers
+coming in at midnight from the cold hills, kindled a fire in the midst
+of the hall, and Peter, shivering from cold and fear, joined the group
+around the brazier to warm himself.
+
+"I have been trying for the past three days," remarked an elderly
+clergyman, "to realize that these bare hills were once 'a land flowing
+with milk and honey,' producing 'grapes, pomegranates, and figs' in
+abundance. To-day I have been thinking of the changes that the tempests
+of a few short years have made in the hills of my own native state, New
+Hampshire, since the rapacious lumber-men have been denuding our
+mountains of the forests. There, the unprotected soil is being washed
+away by the heavy rains, gulleys have been formed, the brooks have
+diminished or dried up, and the part of our once beautiful White
+Mountains that has been cut over is desolate indeed. Now, since thinking
+of the changes that have occurred in a decade at home. I can more fully
+realize the changes that centuries have made here.
+
+"Looking backward," said he, "I can see more clearly in my mind the
+picture that David saw with the eye of an artist, and described with the
+heart of a poet, when these bare, gray, rocky, treeless hills were
+crowned with forests that protected the soil from the beating storms;
+when these slopes, now furrowed with gulleys and spread with stones,
+were covered with orchards and clad with verdure, where the flocks might
+'lie down midst pastures of tender grass;' and when these dried up
+waterways were purling brooks, where the flocks were 'led beside the
+waters of quietness.' I believe that David's description of this country
+was a true picture of the land as it appeared then. 'Thou waterest the
+ridges thereof abundantly; thou settlest the furrows thereof; thou
+makest it soft with showers; thou blessest the springing thereof. The
+pastures are clothed with flocks; the valleys also are covered over
+with corn; they shout for joy, they also sing.'"
+
+[Illustration: WHEN THESE BARE HILLS WERE COVERED WITH ORCHARDS AND CLAD
+WITH VERDURE.]
+
+"In those days the vicinity of Jerusalem was beautiful with palm trees,"
+continued the clergyman, "and the City of Palms was but fifteen miles
+away. Now the City of Palms is a squalid, unhealthful village, and in
+the vicinity of Jerusalem it is difficult to obtain a leaf of the palm."
+
+The low spirits caused by the drizzling rain during our last evening in
+the Sacred City were increased by telegraphic news received from Jaffa.
+The telegram stated that the weather was stormy and the waves running
+high, and that if the sea did not subside we might not be able to
+embark. This information caused considerable anxiety among the timid
+members of the party and many surmises were made as to the developments
+of the following day. As usual, all the arrangements for our departure
+had been carefully made in advance by our managers. We were notified
+that the Syrian bell boys would waken us at five o'clock, and our
+baggage must be ready at five-thirty; breakfast would be served at six
+o'clock; the carriages would be at the Jaffa Gate at six-thirty; and the
+train would leave the Jerusalem station at seven.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII.
+
+CAIRO AND THE PYRAMIDS.
+
+
+On Monday morning, after enjoying our usual breakfast at the Casa Nova
+of boiled eggs, rolls and pure honey, good coffee, and delicious
+oranges, we bade farewell to our tonsured hosts and the staff of gowned
+attendants. The carriages were waiting near the Jaffa Gate to convey us
+to the station. The train moved off promptly at the appointed hour, and
+looking backward, we took our farewell glimpse of the Tower of David and
+the yellow walls of the Holy City.
+
+During the three hours' ride to Jaffa the threatening clouds passed
+away, the sun re-appeared, the rough winds changed to soft breezes, and
+our depressed spirits rose correspondingly. By the time the orange
+groves in the suburbs of Jaffa came into sight, the tourists were in a
+gay and cheerful humor. But when we arrived at the pier of Jaffa, we
+discovered that the sea still felt the effects of the gale. The surf was
+rolling high and the angry waves were breaking violently over the
+ugly-looking rocks in the harbor, hiding them for an instant from view
+and sending the snowy spray high into the air. As we looked out toward
+the Moltke riding at anchor a mile away, many of the gay faces became
+sober. The boatmen holding the tossing boats to the pier urged us to
+embark.
+
+  "But timorous mortals start and shrink to cross the narrow sea,
+  And linger trembling on the brink and fear to launch away"
+
+"Oh, I cannot venture! Go without me! Leave me behind!" exclaimed one of
+the ladies, trembling and almost fainting through fear. "Those black
+rocks momentarily emerging and disappearing seem like the heads of
+terrible monsters waiting to devour us as soon as we come within their
+reach."
+
+"Do not be alarmed," said one of the officials on the pier,
+encouragingly. "The sea, as you say, has a threatening look, but I
+assure you that if there were any danger we would not permit you to
+attempt the passage. These Syrian boatmen have been carrying passengers
+for years and know every rock in the harbor. They brought the Damascus
+tourists from the Moltke without mishap this morning when the sea was
+rougher than now. Trust the boatmen and you will soon be safely on board
+the steamer."
+
+As our boat in its passage over the stormy billows plunged downward into
+the trough of the sea, and horizon, ship, and land were hidden from
+view, we thought that the uplifted, on-coming crests of the waves would
+engulf the boat beneath them; but, expertly handled by the trained
+rowers, the craft rose with each immense surge and safely passed the
+breakers. The Syrian boatmen, who had been continually chanting their
+hymns to Allah while plying their oars, suddenly stopped singing.
+
+"Bachsheesh! Backsheesh!" they cried, ceasing to row, while one of them,
+doffing his fez, passed it around the boat for contributions. The
+passengers, grateful for safety, dropped their coins into the fez;
+again the oars were put in motion, the chant was resumed, and in a few
+minutes the boats were alongside the vessel.
+
+[Illustration: SHE WAS WASHING CLOTHES IN THE CANAL.]
+
+Then came the difficulty of getting on board the steamer; for the little
+boat lay underneath the platform at the foot of the ship's ladder,
+tossed by the billows. As each heaving swell, however, bore the boat
+upward, two sturdy seamen on the platform, reaching down, grasped a
+passenger's arms and drew him up while the boatmen assisted from
+underneath. In this way, one with each wave, the tourists safely
+embarked. The passage from the pier to the steamer affected the tourists
+in various ways: many were frightened, notwithstanding the assertion of
+the official that the dangers were more apparent than real; others were
+exhilarated by the tossing waves and enjoyed the thrilling experience.
+
+"I was so interested in watching the muscular development of the boatmen
+as they pulled at the oars, and in admiring the dexterity and skill with
+which they managed the boat, that I did not think of danger," remarked a
+man who had been stroke oar on a college crew.
+
+While the tourists were being transferred to the ship, the band on deck
+was playing "Home, Sweet Home," and the Captain and other officers
+standing at the head of the stairway gave a friendly greeting to the
+wanderers as they came on board.
+
+"It is pleasant to be welcomed back in this friendly manner," remarked
+one of the ramblers to another as they entered their cabin, "and then it
+is so homelike here in our stateroom, with our photographs and
+nick-nacks pinned around the walls."
+
+[Illustration: BELOW THE CITADEL WE SAW AN OPEN-AIR MARKET.]
+
+A busy afternoon of re-packing followed the departure from Jaffa, for on
+the following day the tourists were to leave the steamer at Alexandria
+to remain twelve days in Egypt. Clothing that was considered suitable
+for the climate of that warmer region was carefully selected and
+condensed into the smaller receptacles, and every article that the
+tourists supposed would not be required was left in the staterooms.
+
+On Tuesday morning, March tenth, at seven o'clock, the Moltke was
+anchored in the commodious port of Alexandria, which is enclosed by long
+stone breakwaters that have been built into the sea to protect the
+harbor. Many vessels were at the docks or at anchor in the port, and a
+handsome white yacht flying the imperial flag of Germany lay within a
+stone's throw of our steamer.
+
+"The Crown Prince of the German Empire is visiting Egypt and that is his
+yacht," said one of the officers.
+
+The morning was bright and clear. It was a delight to breathe the warm
+salt air and feel its invigoration. Overhead the sky was brilliantly
+blue and the sea reflected it in various hues.
+
+"Did you ever see such wonderful coloring on the waters of sea or
+river?" asked an enthusiastic beholder. "Near by the sea sparkles in the
+morning sunlight in azure and olive and darkens into sapphire and
+emerald, and there beyond the breakwater it changes to tints of violet
+and purple. I have heard that the colors of the Mediterranean are
+beautiful; now I know they are."
+
+The row boats that were to carry us ashore gathered around the steamer.
+The bare-footed boatmen, with faces of various shades from light yellow
+to intense black, were attired in red fez, white bloomers, and long
+red sweaters.
+
+[Illustration: AT THE NILE BRIDGE WE WAITED FOR THE DRAW TO CLOSE.]
+
+At the custom house on the dock the custom officials accepted the
+statement of the managers that the baggage of the tourists contained
+nothing dutiable, and the baggage was passed without examination. A
+special train was on the pier ready to convey the party to Cairo.
+Beggars and peddlers attempted to approach the train to ask alms or sell
+their wares, but were driven away with whips by black Nubian soldiers in
+dark blue uniforms, who appeared to take delight in snapping at the bare
+legs of the intruders.
+
+It was just noon when our train, the second special section, moved out
+of Alexandria through long rows of large warehouses; for Alexandria is
+the chief seaport of Egypt and exports the cotton, grain, sugar, rice,
+and other productions of the valley of the Nile. As the train passed
+rapidly southward through the delta of the Nile, we realized that we
+were in a land entirely different from any that we had previously
+visited. The trip of one hundred and thirty miles to Cairo will be
+remembered by the tourists as a panoramic succession of interesting
+pictures of agricultural life. The land on both sides of the railway was
+a black, sandy loam, level almost as a floor, intersected and broken
+only by the canals and irrigation ditches. For some distance out of
+Alexandria the Mahmudiyeh canal was in sight.
+
+"There is a scene that is familiar to me!" exclaimed one of the party.
+"A landscape hanging in the art gallery of our city represents the light
+blue water of a canal mirroring tufted palms and wing-like sails. It
+was painted by a noted artist, who has successfully reproduced many
+beautiful Egyptian views."
+
+[Illustration: "WANT A GUIDE? WANT A GUIDE?" THEY INQUIRED.]
+
+Nile boats with breeze-filled canvas, caravans of camels on the
+embankment of the canal, and trains of donkeys laden with marketing for
+the city by the sea, seemed stationary as we rushed by. The land
+appeared to be thoroughly cultivated. There were no fences or waste
+corners in sight. Every foot of workable ground was utilized for raising
+crops.
+
+[Illustration: EACH ARAB'S CART CONTAINED HIS WIVES.]
+
+"Irrigation makes this almost rainless region the most fruitful on the
+globe," remarked one of the managers of the tour. "By the aid of
+irrigation the Egyptian farmers can raise two or three crops every year.
+To do so, however, they must labor incessantly and give the land
+thorough cultivation. Irrigation with them is not opening the gates of a
+sluiceway and letting the water flow over the land. It means severe
+labor, pumping the water up from the ditches, canals, or river, in which
+the surface of the water may be ten or twenty feet below the surface
+of the land. The pumps are the same kind that the people used in the
+days of the Pharaohs, and the methods of cultivation are the same as in
+those ancient times, without modern agricultural implements or modern
+machinery. Three crops, therefore, does not mean great prosperity, but
+simply enables the Egyptian farmer to pay taxes that would seem enormous
+to an American farmer, and then to have a surplus sufficient to supply
+his very moderate wants."
+
+[Illustration: WHERE EGYPTIANS OF MANY TYPES WERE ASSEMBLED.]
+
+The monotony of the level stretches was varied by groups of palm trees
+whose tall rough trunks upheld graceful heads of outstretched, drooping
+leaves, and by villages of small mud huts roofed with stalks of
+sugar-cane, sufficient, we imagined, in that dry country, to protect the
+inmates from the burning noonday heat, and to shelter them from the
+chilling night dews. Occasionally the train stopped at large and
+apparently prosperous towns, where there were substantial stone
+buildings and busy factories. At these stations Arab venders offered
+coffee, lemonade, fruit, and other refreshments to appease the hunger
+and thirst of the travelers.
+
+The fields were full of life. Each cultivated acre had its dark-hued
+laborers with hoes, or bare-legged toilers drawing water from the
+ditches for irrigating the thirsty land, or plowmen guiding teams of
+ungainly, striding camels or dark gray, crooked-horned oxen. In the lush
+meadows many of these curious-looking animals were grazing. The camels,
+the small donkeys, and the gray oxen or water-buffaloes as the natives
+called them, tied to stakes, were restricted to the pasturage within
+reach of their tethers. Along some of the irrigating canals naked
+dark-skinned men and boys splashed about in the water, or stood
+unabashed on the bank of the stream, gazing at the passing train.
+
+[Illustration: I. SMALL AND HAZY IN THE DISTANCE.]
+
+[Illustration: II. "MADAM MIGHT DROP HER SHAWL."]
+
+"Look at that scene," cried one of the passengers. "I wonder whether our
+cattle at home would not enjoy similar treatment."
+
+In the canal some naked boys were mounted on a buffalo, and near them an
+Arab, also in the water, was scrubbing the back of another buffalo, to
+the evident enjoyment of that animal.
+
+As we approached Cairo, the great valley of the delta narrowed, and
+mountain boundaries loomed up in the distance. Far away to the right the
+tops of the Pyramids, looking very small, silhouetted the sky. On the
+left, high hills broke the landscape, and presently the buildings and
+minarets that crowned the hills were outlined on the horizon. Handsome
+villas, beautiful gardens, good roads, and increasing traffic in the
+suburbs indicated the nearness of a prosperous city.
+
+Just four hours after leaving Alexandria our train entered the station
+at Cairo, where hotel-runners, cab-men, and porters gave the passengers
+a noisy reception. Complete arrangements having been made in advance for
+our party, we had time to take in the novel sights leisurely. The party
+had been divided into two sections; one section booked for the famous
+Shepheard's Hotel, the other section for the Hotel Grand Continental.
+The avenues through which we were driven on the way to the Hotel were
+bordered with large shade trees. The streets were full of life. The
+buildings were modern, seemingly of French style, with a mixture of
+Oriental architecture.
+
+[Illustration: I. THE SAND HAD BEEN SHOVELED AWAY FROM THE SPHINX.]
+
+[Illustration: II. THE GRANITE TEMPLE. REMAINS EMBEDDED.]
+
+"What a contrast," said one, thinking aloud of the city we had left but
+two days ago, as our carriage glided smoothly over the well paved
+highways. "Did two cities ever present a stronger contrast than
+Jerusalem, with streets narrow, rough, filthy, and depressing to the
+spirits, and Cairo, with avenues broad, smooth, clean, and pleasing to
+the senses? The interest in the city of Jerusalem had to be stirred by
+the memorials of the sacred events of the past; the discomforts of the
+present had to be overlooked. The city of Cairo appeals to us at once as
+a pleasure ground with attractions on all sides, and the promise of
+comfortable surroundings."
+
+The hotels of Cairo are famous throughout the world for the magnificence
+of their appointments, the cosmopolitan character of their guests, and
+the novelty of the sights that may be seen at their doors. When we drove
+up to the Hotel Grand Continental, a military band was giving an
+afternoon concert in the beautiful Esbekieh Gardens opposite the hotel.
+On the wide pavement in front of the piazza of the hotel, dragomen in
+elaborate Arabic costumes were offering their services as guides or
+interpreters. "Want a guide? want a guide?" they inquired of all
+strangers who they thought might need such service. Arab urchins, whose
+hands may have once been clean, offered picture postal cards for sale;
+bootblacks solicited patronage and beggars asked for alms; match
+peddlers endeavored to dispose of their little boxes; flower sellers
+thrust their bouquets forward into notice; dealers in scarabs and
+miniature mummy cases proclaimed the virtues of their charms; and
+venders of beads offered endless varieties of their fanciful, colored
+Egyptian wares. Interest in the scene was heightened by the variety of
+the characteristic flowing gowns peculiar to the natives of Egypt. On
+the piazza, groups of guests were taking afternoon tea, and listening to
+the music in the park opposite, or, seated comfortably in wicker chairs,
+found amusement in watching the animated throng on the sidewalk; in
+observing the arrivals and departures on donkeys and in victorias; and
+in viewing the constant panoramic procession on the street.
+
+[Illustration: MAY TAKE CAMELS OR DONKEYS AND RIDE.]
+
+The head porter, in gorgeous uniform, received us with the air of a
+proprietor; Arab bell boys in bright red silk gowns responded to the
+call of the manager and conducted us to our rooms; and Arab men in white
+gowns brought up our luggage. There were French maids on each floor to
+attend to the calls of the ladies; but Arab men in spotless robes made
+the beds, cared for the rooms, and took the place of chambermaids. These
+Arab men were seated in the wide halls when not employed at their tasks,
+but whenever a guest approached they rose and stood at attention,
+appearing very tall in their white drapery. In the dining room the
+English head waiters in dress suits contrasted strangely with the
+dark-skinned Arab waiters in handsome silk gowns of various colors.
+
+On the evening we arrived in Cairo the large gardens of Shepheard's
+Hotel were beautifully illuminated with thousands of electric lights and
+hundreds of Chinese lanterns festooned among the shrubbery. Two military
+bands alternately played selections from favorite composers during the
+evening. An exhibition of fire-works made a brilliant display, and this
+was followed by a "battle of confetti" in the garden and a dance in the
+hotel. Our party bought packages of paper confetti and joined the gay
+crowd of merrymakers in casting handfuls of the colored squares of paper
+at each passer-by. At the dance the great variety of handsome uniforms
+worn by the English officers attracted our attention, the red jackets of
+some of the men being particularly noticeable among the light gowns of
+the French and English women.
+
+Plans to utilize our time to the best advantage were carefully made, so
+that during our one week in Cairo we might give precedence to the places
+of particular interest, and see them at the most suitable hours.
+
+[Illustration: THE CLIMBERS DWINDLED IN SIZE.]
+
+[Illustration: AFTER REACHING THE TOP OF CHEOPS.]
+
+When we visited the Egyptian Museum, the wealth of antiquities displayed
+within its commodious and well-lighted halls held us with a grasp from
+which it was difficult to break loose. The mummies of the old kings who
+had been dead for thirty centuries urged us to remain. "We will tell you
+the story of remote ages," they seemed to say. There Ramses II, with
+gray hair, thin beard, and pierced ears, the great conqueror, builder of
+temples, erector of statues, and maker of history, lay peacefully at
+rest. His lips were firmly closed, his hands folded across his breast.
+His high forehead indicated the judgment with which he governed, and the
+strong nose suggested the greatness of his power. And near him, in
+hieroglyphic-covered coffins, reposed Seti I, constructor of magnificent
+edifices; Ramses III, oppressor of the Israelites; and many other famous
+kings, queens, priests, and warriors. The wooden statue of a village
+sheik with good-natured face and crystal eyes, and the tinted
+limestone, lifelike statues of Prince Rahotep and his wife Nofret, could
+they have spoken, might have revealed the secrets of ages long before
+the times of the mummies; and the gray stone figure of Chepren, which
+was found in the well of the temple of Gizeh, might have explained the
+mysteries of pyramid and sphinx.
+
+[Illustration: IN THE UNIVERSITY THE STUDENTS WERE SEATED ON THE FLOOR.]
+
+[Illustration: THE PENNIES APPARENTLY CANNOT BE FOUND.]
+
+From the parapet of the citadel which crowns the heights above Cairo, we
+gazed at the extended view of roofs, mosques, minarets, and tombs of
+caliphs, and listened to the story of the massacre of the Mamelukes and
+the legend of the one who marvelously escaped by leaping on his horse
+over the parapet to the ground sixty feet below. To convince us of the
+truth of this legend, the dragoman showed the impression of the horse's
+hoofs in the stone coping on the wall. The large Mosque of Mehemet Ali,
+on the heights, is built of pure alabaster and carpeted with costly
+rugs. The older Mosque of Sultan Ahmed, at the foot of the citadel hill,
+is built of sandstone taken from the Pyramids, and, although partly in
+ruins and with bare stone floors, it is yet beautiful.
+
+"This mosque make Ahmed glad. He not want another built like it, so he
+chop hand off architect," explained our good-natured dragoman, whose
+control of English was limited, but he endeavored to relate the legends
+and give information.
+
+While returning from the citadel we came by an open-air market, where
+Egyptians of many types were gathered in groups around piles of
+merchandise and vegetables. Here our camera man, taking advantage of an
+opportune moment, caught a dense mass of faces before the natives became
+aware of his presence.
+
+On Friday afternoon we visited the Monastery El Akbar to see the
+religious exercises of the Twirling Dervishes, which take place there
+every Friday afternoon. The shrill music, the fanatic faces, the
+obeisance to the leader, the whirling men, the naked feet, and the
+never-touching skirts, just as we beheld them, are pictured vividly by
+Canon Rawnsley, in his "Idylls and Lyrics of the Nile."
+
+
+          THE DANCING DERVISHES.
+
+    The shrillest pipe man ever played
+    Was making music overhead,
+    And in a circle, down below,
+    Sat men whose faces seemed to show
+    Another world was all their trade.
+
+    Then up they rose, and one by one,
+    Shook skirts down, following him who led
+    To where the elder brother sat--
+    All gaberdine and conic hat,
+    Then bowed, and off for Heaven they spun.
+
+    Their hands were crossed upon their breast,
+    Their eyes were closed as if for sleep,
+    The naked foot that beat the floor,
+    To keep them spinning more and more,
+    Was careless of all need for rest.
+
+    Soon every flowing skirt began
+    Its milk-white spinning plane to keep,
+    Each brother of the holy band
+    Spun in and out with lifted hand,
+    A Teetotem no longer man.
+
+    The gray old man, their leader, went
+    Throughout his spinning fellowship,
+    And reverently to the ear,
+    Of every dervish circling near,
+    He spake a soft encouragement.
+
+    The piper piped a shriller psalm,
+    The dancers thro' their mystery moved,
+    Untouched, untouching, and the twirl
+    That set our giddy heads awhirl,
+    Served but to give their faces calm.
+
+
+We drove from Cairo to the Pyramids of Gizeh, a distance of ten miles,
+over a substantial macadamized avenue. This broad highway, elevated
+eight or ten feet above the adjoining lands in order to protect it from
+the flood of water during the time of inundation, was bordered for seven
+miles with large shade trees, and was in perfect condition. On one side
+of the avenue an electric tramway extended from the bridge at Cairo to
+the Mena House Hotel near the Pyramids.
+
+"We might have reached our destination more quickly in the cars," said
+our manager as an electric car sped by us, "but at such speed we should
+have missed much that is strange and curious. We thought it preferable
+to take the trip in open carriages."
+
+The scenes along the way as we drove to the Pyramids were indeed novel.
+In the gardens in the environs of the city, the cabbage, onions, beans,
+and strawberries were in readiness for the market, and in the fields,
+the clover and forage plants, dark in color and luxuriant in growth,
+were ready for the sickle, but the wheat was yet green. The fellahs--the
+Egyptian farm-laborers--were cutting the rank clover in square patches
+and stacking it on the backs of camels or donkeys. Along the road
+stalked camels beneath huge stacks of fragrant clover, and donkeys so
+laden with newly-cut forage that only their heads and feet could be
+seen. A crooked-horned ox with an Arab farmer on his back ambled by. A
+caravan of camels laden with blankets, tents, and military supplies,
+accompanied by a guard of white-helmeted English soldiers, almost
+blocked the road as they marched past. Bronzed-faced natives seated in
+the shade dealt in sugar-cane stalks, cutting pieces of cane from the
+pile of stalks beside them as they were sold. Turbaned Arabs sauntered
+by, chewing with evident enjoyment the sweet stalks which they had
+purchased. Bedouins from the desert rode past on camels bedecked with
+tasseled trappings, swaying back and forth as they rode. Women, partly
+veiled, coming from the wells, balanced on their heads large earthen
+bottles filled with water.
+
+"There are many pyramids," said the guide, as our carriage emerged from
+the shade of the trees and the Pyramids were seen in the distance, "but
+Cheops is the greatest, and it is the one that is ascended by visitors;
+the other Pyramids are viewed at a distance but are visited by few.
+Cheops is four hundred and fifty feet in height and each side of the
+base measures seven hundred and fifty feet. It was originally much
+larger and higher but the outer layers of stone were torn down and
+carried away to Cairo to build mosques and palaces. The adjacent Pyramid
+of Chepren is almost as large but as some of the steps are cased, it is
+more difficult to ascend. When we arrive at the pyramids you may take
+camels or donkeys and ride around the base of Cheops. Or if you prefer
+to go on foot, you may walk around it, but walking in the sand is
+tiresome. Then we will proceed to the Sphinx and, after viewing it,
+descend to the excavated temple near the Sphinx. Afterwards, those who
+feel equal to the exertion may climb to the summit of Cheops. As this
+Pyramid is built of huge blocks of stone about three feet in thickness
+each step upward requires some effort. The Bedouins, however, will
+assist you in the ascent, two of them mounting the step ahead and
+drawing you up while a third pushes behind."
+
+[Illustration: THE TOMB MOSQUE OF THE KHALIF KAIT BEY WAS THE FINEST.]
+
+As we neared them, the Pyramids, which at first had seemed small and
+hazy in the distance, became distinct and grew in size. When very close
+to them they appeared enormous, but their magnitude was not fully
+appreciated until some hours later, after we had tramped through the
+sand around the four sides of great Cheops. After that walk, a distance
+of more than half a mile, we could judge with greater exactness the
+immense proportions of the extensive base. The slope of the sides
+prevented a fair conception of their height when looking upward at them;
+but after reaching the top of Cheops, panting with the exertion of the
+laborious climb in which we had been assisted by three Bedouins, we
+looked down at the midgets moving on the sand below, and were convinced
+that the altitude stated by the guide was not exaggerated.
+
+The Pyramids of Gizeh stand upon a plateau about four hundred acres in
+extent, which appeared to be thirty or more feet above the level of the
+surrounding country. The surface of this plateau is a barren sandy
+tract, bordered by cultivated land on the side toward the Nile and
+merging on the west into the Libyan desert which stretches to the
+distant hills. Just as far as the inundation of the Nile spreads or the
+irrigating water was pumped, the land was fertile; where the surface
+rose above the height reached by the water, the land was a barren waste.
+Almost as suddenly as landing from an emerald sea on to a desert shore,
+we stepped from a rich growth of verdure to a bare slope of yellow
+sand.
+
+At the foot of the Pyramid of Cheops a gesticulating, vociferous throng
+of Bedouins crowded about us, shouting in Arabic mixed with a few
+intelligible English words. Camel-drivers and donkey boys offered the
+services of their animals to make the circuit; helpers, almost dragging
+us away in their eagerness, insisted that we should climb to the summit;
+and guides with candles in their hands importuned us to accompany them
+into the gloomy interior. After a selection of camels and donkeys had
+been made by those who desired to ride, the clamorous crowd of natives
+separated, and we were allowed to start accompanied by but a few, who
+followed in case they should be needed. "Madam might drop her shawl, or
+want her umbrella carried, or need an arm to steady her in the saddle,"
+explained the guide.
+
+[Illustration: ASTRIDE ITS MOTHER'S SHOULDERS.]
+
+"For scores of centuries," remarked the professor, as we stood before
+the Sphinx, "the strong winds from the west have carried particles of
+sand from the desert and deposited them around the Pyramids. Now the
+original base of Cheops lies twenty or thirty feet beneath banks of sand
+and debris that have collected around it. In the same manner the
+encroaching particles, drifting like the light dry snows of the
+prairies, have almost engulfed the Sphinx. Many times in the past the
+sand has been shoveled away to prevent the Sphinx from being hidden from
+sight, and if this excavation in which it now stands should be neglected
+for a time, the desert winds would fill the pit again and gradually
+cover the monument. The Granite Temple adjacent to the Sphinx was
+covered over so completely in the progress of centuries that its
+location was forgotten. It is but fifty years since the French
+archaeologist Mariette discovered and excavated the interior of this
+large structure, the exterior of which, as you see, yet remains embedded
+in sand as far as the capstone on the walls."
+
+After descending the steps that led down to the floor of the buried
+temple and passing through rooms constructed of blocks of alabaster, we
+stood in the main hall, surrounded by monolithic pillars of granite
+which supported enormous blocks of the same material overhead. The guide
+said that these huge blocks of granite had been brought from quarries at
+Assuan, far up the Nile, but he could not tell how the ancient Egyptians
+had been able to handle the monoliths.
+
+[Illustration: ENTERED THE FAMILY BURIAL MOSQUE OF MOHAMMED ALI.]
+
+"My theory may not be correct," said the professor, as we turned to him
+for a reply to the query "but I will state it. We know how the great
+blocks of limestone that were used in the erection of the Pyramids were
+brought from the Libyan mountains; for the father of history, Herodotus,
+relates the story. He says that the Egyptians constructed a solid road
+sixty feet wide of polished stone from the quarry in the Lybian
+mountains and over this smooth roadbed dragged or rolled the huge
+blocks. He also states that as the work progressed, these blocks were
+lifted by machines from step to step and imbedded in their places in the
+pyramid. When granite or other stone had to be brought from a great
+distance for the erection of temples and palaces, as for this granite
+and alabaster temple of the Sphinx, the Egyptians probably adopted the
+simplest way of conveying the material in a land where task-masters
+drove tens of thousands of slaves to labor on the public works. That is,
+they probably excavated canals from the Nile to the quarries,
+supplementing these, where necessary, with stone roadways or slides, and
+made other canals from the Nile to the location selected for the
+buildings, and transported the unwieldy masses of stone on barges to
+their destination."
+
+"I made some calculations for comparison last night," continued the
+professor, seeing that we were interested in his statements. "Professor
+Petrie, the archaeologist, says that there are over two million large
+blocks of stone in the Pyramid of Cheops, or ninety-two million cubic
+feet."
+
+"Now, Professor," said one of the ladies, interrupting him, "you are
+getting above our comprehension when you soar into millions."
+
+[Illustration: BEARING ON HIS BACK AN UNWIELDY GOATSKIN.]
+
+"Am I?" he replied. "Well, I will leave the millions and give you
+something more familiar. The Capitol at Washington is seven hundred and
+fifty feet long,--just the length of each side of the base of
+Cheops,--but the Capitol is not half that in width. The Capitol covers
+an area of three and one-half acres; the Pyramid spreads over thirteen
+acres. The apex of the Pyramid is one hundred and sixty feet higher than
+the head of Freedom on the dome at Washington. The Capitol is a hollow
+structure; the Pyramid, a solid mass, excepting the comparatively small
+chamber of the tomb and passage ways. The stone used in the construction
+of Cheops would be sufficient to build the Capitol and the Library of
+Congress, and there would be enough material left over for capitol
+buildings in each of the states in the Union. When you have time,
+calculate how many miles of stone wall might be constructed with
+ninety-two million cubic feet of stone. It is only by comparison that we
+can comprehend the stupendous bulk of these magnificent monuments, and
+realize the prodigious amount of labor that was required for their
+erection."
+
+It was but a short drive from the Hotel Grand Continental to the Muski,
+the narrow street that is the centre of the bazaar district, a district
+which every visitor is sure to find soon after his arrival in Cairo.
+When we entered the crowded Muski, we left the broad avenues of the
+modern city behind and walked in narrow Oriental streets through which
+carriages are not allowed to go.
+
+"Everything is novel and interesting in this busy thoroughfare," said
+one of our party. "I suggest that we move along very slowly and stop
+frequently. See that lemonade vender with the brass tank strapped to his
+back. When he bent forward the water flowed from the spout over his
+shoulder into the cup he held in his hand, without his touching the
+tank. He is waiting for his customer to produce the pennies that
+apparently cannot be found."
+
+The street scenes in the Muski were so kaleidoscopic that it is
+impossible to give more than a suggestion of their character. A few
+representative scenes can be given and around these the imagination must
+picture a constantly changing throng, not hurrying as in busy American
+cities, but moving leisurely in the Eastern manner. The crowd was
+orderly, but not quiet, for tongues were in constant use. Merchants
+and customers chattered and parleyed. Venders of licorice water and
+sweetmeats did not permit their presence to be overlooked, and donkeys
+occasionally joined in the chorus. Each figure unfamiliar to our Western
+eyes, in turban or in fez, in slippers or in bare feet, in scant gown of
+cotton or full robe of silk, was a subject worthy of being considered
+individually.
+
+[Illustration: FIGURES UNFAMILIAR TO OUR WESTERN EYES.]
+
+A baby, astride its mother's shoulder, clung to her head while she
+walked along and made her purchases, apparently unconscious of her
+child. A bare-footed water carrier, bearing on his back an unwieldy
+goatskin distended with its contents, cried, "Water for sale." A donkey
+boy pushed aside the crowd to let the closely veiled, silk-mantled lady
+rider pass through on her caparisoned donkey. Muscular fellahs, or
+peasants, in brown skull caps, and blue shirts which reached to their
+ankles, their feet bare, their teeth remarkable for whiteness, sauntered
+along chewing stalks of sugar-cane. Women of the poorer class passed by,
+wearing scanty gowns of plain blue cotton, heavy copper bracelets, and
+nose ornaments of brass, which held in place the veils that covered the
+lower part of their faces but did not conceal the beauty spots tattooed
+on their foreheads. A funeral procession, with professional mourners
+chanting monotonously a hymn to Allah, followed a casket borne on the
+shoulders of men. And these curious scenes, which we tried to catch with
+the camera, formed but unimportant parts in an ever-moving picture in
+which were intermingled the costumes, colors, and facial characteristics
+of dervishes, priests, and soldiers, of Arabs, Nubians, Turks, and
+Americans.
+
+[Illustration: IN THE COURT OF THE ALABASTER MOSQUE IS A FOUNTAIN.]
+
+The Muski and the crooked little passage-ways that intersected it were
+lined with small shops where many of the dealers sat cross-legged on
+platforms within arm's reach of their stock of goods. The stores for the
+sale of each kind of goods had a special quarter of their own. At one
+place we saw the shops of the coppersmiths with stocks of bright
+kettles, pitchers, basins, trays, and pans; at another, the stores of
+the shoemakers, where hundreds of bright red slippers dangled on lines
+overhead. In one crooked alley, but four feet in width, we watched the
+goldsmiths, squatted in narrow quarters, busily at work with brazier and
+blowpipes and curious little tools, hammering, twisting, and welding
+chains of gold, and making ornaments of silver filagree.
+
+We bought souvenirs at the stalls of the fez dealers, where but one
+style of headgear was sold, always red in color, and with prices varying
+according to the quality of the cloth and lining. We stopped at the
+warerooms of the brass-smiths, which were larger in size than the
+ordinary shops, and found these filled with an array of hammered trays,
+censers, bowls, tankards, curiously wrought lamps, and ornamented
+candlesticks, that attracted many buyers. We looked into the little
+factories of the saddlers, which were gay with red and yellow trappings
+for donkeys and horses, and where the saddlers were stitching with
+bright colored-threads.
+
+The light open-front workshops of the makers of hempen camel harness
+were hung with the twisted rope and tassel adornments of variegated
+colors with which the Bedouin delights to array his ship of the desert.
+The stores of the grocers were adorned with long decorated candles
+suspended by the wicks. We saw hundreds of tiny bazaars for the sale of
+perfumes, placed side by side in a narrow lane where the air was scented
+with musk and attar of roses; and we walked through narrow streets
+where, each kind in its own section, earthen water jars, lanterns,
+books, ornamented leather work, gems, and precious stones were displayed
+for sale.
+
+The guide insisted that we should spend a little time in the carpet
+stores in a side street. We yielded to his entreaties, and were
+surprised by the immense stacks of exquisite silk rugs; but to the
+courteous salesman's offer to show us everything in his place, we were
+compelled by lack of time to reply, "Another day." When we arrived at
+the more prominent silk bazaars, the ladies wished to buy some light
+shawls interwoven with gold thread and table covers embroidered with
+silk. They soon found out, however, that, as in the other Oriental
+cities, much time would be required for bargaining, and so the shopping
+was put off until the sight-seeing was over.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIV.
+
+LUXOR AND KARNAK.
+
+
+The Nile party No. 2, consisting of forty-two persons, left Cairo on
+Friday morning, March thirteenth, in sleeping cars. The cars were
+painted white outside, finished in cherry inside, and divided into
+rooms, each room having two comfortable berths and a washstand, and a
+passageway along the side of the car. We ate our dinner that evening and
+breakfast the following morning in a modern dining car attached to the
+train.
+
+At nine o'clock on Saturday morning the train arrived at our
+destination, the town of Luxor, about four hundred miles south of Cairo.
+The Hotel de Luxor, at which we stayed, was situated in the midst of a
+large irrigated garden where palms cast a grateful shade and roses and
+lilies bloomed among tropical plants. Within this hotel, built with
+thick stone walls and floored with flagstones, the tourists found a
+pleasant refuge from the heat when they returned from excursions into
+the desert. In its cool dining room, decorated in the old Egyptian style
+with figures of gods and goddesses, with lotus blossoms and papyrus
+flowers, with hieroglyphics and symbols, painted on frieze, walls, and
+window sash, the tourists were waited on by white-robed, white-turbaned,
+red-sashed, red-slippered natives.
+
+[Illustration: THE HUGE PROPYLON OR OUTER GATEWAY AT KARNAK.]
+
+The flies were a great pest. They were numerous and annoying, although
+we found that they did not bite so hard nor tickle the skin so much as
+do the flies in our country. Among the first purchases made by the
+tourists in Luxor were fly brushes made of palm fiber or of white
+horsehair with wooden handles and loops to attach them to the wrist. It
+was amusing to see English, German, and American tourists switching at
+the flies with their horsetail brushes while the natives passively
+endured the crawling insects. Egyptian mothers in the village permitted
+the flies to creep over the babies' faces and settle in clusters around
+their eyes without attempting to drive the tormentors away, either too
+lazy to do so or desirous that the babies should become hardened to the
+annoyance. We pitied the infants, however, and some of the ladies of our
+party became very indignant over the indifference--cruelty they called
+it--of the mothers. We saw many older children afterwards whose skin
+appeared to be insensible to the tickling feet; for they made no attempt
+to brush away the flies which covered their faces.
+
+[Illustration: I. WALKED ALONG THE AVENUE OF SPHINXES.]
+
+[Illustration: II. THE LITTLE MOSQUE COULD NOT BE PURCHASED.]
+
+Our party was joined during the morning by another party of tourists.
+After luncheon we all proceeded to the end of the shaded garden, where,
+at the gateway, we found Mahmoud, the dragoman who had been selected to
+take charge of the expedition. His assistants were assembled there and
+with them were eighty donkey boys, each with his donkey, a number of
+jinrikisha men with carts, and chair men with chairs. The donkey boys
+were of all ages from lads scarcely in their teens to veterans of
+three-score years. The donkeys were of various sizes but the largest
+were not over four feet high. The jinrikishas had each two attendants,
+one man to pull in the shafts of the cart and one to push. The chairs
+borne on poles on the shoulders of men had each six carriers, four to
+carry and two as a relay. Chairs or jinrikishas were chosen by the
+tourists whose bodies required careful treatment and by those who
+preferred to travel in luxury. The donkeys, however, were selected by
+the majority, who considered it a far greater pleasure to ride.
+
+[Illustration: THEY BROUGHT WATER IN GOATSKINS FROM THE NILE.]
+
+"This way! this way! ladies and gentlemen, if you please!" exclaimed
+Mahmoud, and the merry cavalcade of eighty tourists and one hundred
+attendants started off through the village, donkey boys chattering,
+donkeys braying, and riders gaily chaffing one another on their
+appearance in the saddle; the long-legged professor holding up his feet
+to prevent them from scraping the ground and the jolly stout parson
+mounted on the smallest donkey. Each donkey was followed by a donkey boy
+who whipped the patient beast, jabbed him with a sharp pointed stick,
+twisted the animal's tail, or talked to him in Arabic, when it was
+necessary to urge him to greater speed. When urged, the donkeys were
+fast walkers. But whether the donkeys were walking, trotting, or
+galloping, the boys with little exertion managed to keep close to their
+heels, and the jinrikisha men and chair men could keep up such a rapid
+speed with their loads that it was difficult to leave them in the rear.
+
+[Illustration: BUILT OVER FORTY CENTURIES AGO.]
+
+My donkey boy, aged about sixteen, told me that his name was Abda
+Mohammed and that the medium sized white donkey on which I rode was
+known as Alice Lovell. With broad smiles which showed a perfect set of
+white teeth, he repeated over and over again, at intervals during the
+short ride, "Alice Lovell, nice donkey, good donkey. Abda, nice boy,
+good donkey boy," doubtless thinking that if I could fully realize that
+fact the backsheesh at parting would be larger.
+
+A half hour's ride on an embanked road across fields and desert sands
+brought us to the ruins of a great arch, formerly one of the gateways
+into the magnificent ancient temples of Karnak, but now an entrance way
+to the famous ruins. There, the Egyptian guards ordered us to show our
+government permits, or monument tickets, as our dragoman called them,
+without which we could not inspect the ruins.
+
+[Illustration: HAVE ENDURED THROUGH MANY AGES.]
+
+"Oh! I have forgotten my ticket!" said one of the tourists. "I left it
+with my satchel. What shall I do?"
+
+At luncheon before starting Mahmoud had cautioned the tourists to be
+careful not to forget their permits, and his cautionary words, "Monument
+tickets are very much wanted," were familiar and often repeated. A
+hurried consultation was held and the difficulty overcome, but the
+forgetful one and others were warned that it must not occur again.
+
+In order to provide a fund to be used in excavating, preserving, and
+caring for the ancient temples and tombs, the Egyptian government
+requires a permit costing six dollars to be taken out by each person
+desiring to visit these places, and without such a permit he cannot
+enter. At Cairo the managers of the tour had obtained from the
+government for each member of the Nile party a little cloth bound
+"Service des Antiquites L'Egypte" made out in the name of the holder.
+This open-sesame for the iron gates was given to each person with the
+warning that it must not be forgotten.
+
+We stopped to view and kodak one of the huge Propylons or outer gate
+ways and found there some visitors who had driven to Karnak in modern
+carriages instead of using the Oriental way of conveyance that we had
+taken. An avenue of Sphinxes with rams' heads was also stowed away in
+the kodak to be brought to light at some future time.
+
+"These stupendous ruins of Karnak," said the dragoman, "were once a
+group of magnificent temples covering an area of many acres. The most
+ancient of the structures was built over forty centuries ago. Other
+temples were added and alterations and improvements made during the ages
+following when the city of Thebes was a prosperous capital; but for over
+two thousand years these places of worship have been abandoned and the
+sand of the desert has collected around them, almost burying them out of
+sight. The Egyptian government for a number of years has had many
+natives excavating, and also has been raising some of the fallen
+columns."
+
+As we passed through the temple grounds we saw a number of men and boys
+at work, as the dragoman had stated. These excavators scooped the sand
+and debris into small baskets, while a taskmaster stood over them, whip
+in hand. Then placing the filled baskets on their heads they started off
+in long lines, singing as they marched to the deposit heap. The men, we
+were informed, earned twenty-five cents a day at this labor, and the
+boys ten to fifteen cents a day.
+
+"One thing noticeable about these most magnificent ruins in the world,"
+continued the guide, as we halted in the great court, "is that the
+architecture, the sculpture, the inscriptions, of the earlier temples is
+equal, if not superior, to the workmanship of a later date. The
+construction work done under the great kings Ramses I, Seti I, Ramses
+II, and Amenophis III, who ruled over Egypt thirteen centuries before
+the Christian era, has never been surpassed. Stones of immense size were
+handled by their architects in some manner unknown at the present day,
+and walls and columns were erected of such solidity and strength that
+they have endured through these many ages. The First Pylon or gigantic
+portal to the Temple of Ammon, which was dedicated to Ammon-Re, the King
+of the Gods, is three hundred and seventy-two feet wide, with walls
+sixteen feet thick and one hundred and forty-two feet high. The
+wonderful Hypostyle Hall, or Hall of Columns, is three hundred and
+thirty-eight feet long by one hundred and seventy feet broad."
+
+"Before we enter, let me read you what the noted Egyptologist Rawlinson
+says with reference to this Hall of Columns," said the professor,
+drawing out his note book. "He writes: 'The greatest of all Seti's work
+was his pillared hall at Karnak, the most splendid single chamber that
+has ever been built by any architect, and even in its ruins one of the
+grandest sights that the world contains."
+
+The huge columns, some in place, some leaning, and others prostrate,
+were an impressive sight. The guide called our attention to the
+inscriptions that covered all the columns and to the traces of coloring
+that might still be seen on the protected parts. In order that we might
+more fully realize their size, he suggested that we measure the
+circumference of one with our arms. It required six of us with
+outstretched arms to span one of the larger columns.
+
+As we passed through the various halls, Mahmoud interpreted and
+explained many of the historical inscriptions and reliefs with which the
+ancient Egyptian kings had covered the walls, commemorating the
+victories they had gained over their enemies. One wall pictured the
+triumph of Shishak over Rehoboam, the son of Solomon. The captured
+cities were represented by circles each enclosing the name of the city;
+the captives, by rows of Hebrews bound with cords. King Shishak stood
+over the captives grasping a group of them by the hair and smiting them
+with a club, and slaves carried the golden treasures that had been
+stripped from the temple at Jerusalem, and the plunder taken from
+Rehoboam's palace.
+
+[Illustration: WITHIN THE TEMPLE OF AMMON AT KARNAK.]
+
+On our return to Luxor my donkey boy Abda and I had a disagreement. I
+gave him, as backsheesh, a tip equal to a man's wages for a full day's
+work in Egypt; but he pleaded with tears in his eyes for "more
+backsheesh," and departed apparently in great anger.
+
+After resting awhile in the cool halls of our hotel, we walked to the
+ruins of the great Temple in the village of Luxor, close by the river
+bank and not far from the hotel.
+
+"In the year 1884," said Mahmoud, as we assembled around him in the
+ruins where the gigantic columns rose forty feet above our heads, "I was
+living in a house that stood just over where we are now standing and I
+did not know that a part of the temple was buried in the earth
+underneath. The government officials, after much haggling and
+complaining about the prices my neighbors and I demanded, bought the
+houses and lands of us, about thirty properties in all, and gave us
+other lands, so that the excavations could be continued. That year this
+part of the temple was uncovered. The little white mosque at the corner
+could not be purchased, as that ground is sacred and must not be
+disturbed to uncover ruins underneath it."
+
+[Illustration: PLACED THE FILLED BASKETS ON THEIR HEADS.]
+
+[Illustration: EMBELLISHED THE TEMPLE WITH STATUES OF HIMSELF.]
+
+"This edifice, dedicated to the worship of Ammon," continued the guide,
+"was erected by King Amenophis III thirty-three hundred years ago; but
+King Ramses II, one hundred years later, added to the structure and
+made it a memorial of his reign by embellishing the temple with statues
+of himself and covering the exterior walls with reliefs and inscriptions
+picturing and describing his triumphs."
+
+We saw two colossal sitting statues of Ramses forty-five feet in height,
+one of which was completely excavated, the other buried breast high in
+rubbish, and in a court of the temple were many gigantic standing
+figures of Ramses placed between the pillars. Beside one of these was a
+small figure, representing the queen Nefertari, which just reached to
+the height of the knees of Ramses.
+
+"The king desired to indicate by the size of the statues that he was a
+great conqueror," said the dragoman. "His wife was the daughter of
+Pharoah who, while bathing in the Nile, found the Hebrew babe hidden
+among the papyri plants."
+
+"If Nefertari was the princess who rescued Moses, she deserved a larger
+statue," responded one of the tourists.
+
+"This series of scenes represents the victory at Kadesh in Syria,"
+explained the guide as we stood before a wall covered with pictorial
+representations of conflict cut in the stone. "Here is the King in his
+chariot charging with fury on his foes amid flying arrows. Notice the
+dead and wounded scattered over the field of battle and the Hittites
+flying in confusion. At one side you see the Egyptian camp, and on the
+other side the fortress of Kadesh and the Syrian king amazed at the
+sight of his army in wild flight. The hieroglyphics that cover the side
+of the tower give a detailed account of the battle and of the glorious
+deeds of valor performed by King Ramses. There were originally two large
+obelisks here in front of the temple, but one of them was taken to Paris
+a number of years ago."
+
+"Yes, I saw it there," remarked one of the party, "but the inscriptions
+on the one at Paris looked worn and weather-beaten; while those on this
+obelisk are almost as distinct as when they were cut in the pink granite
+three thousand years ago."
+
+On the morning of March fifteenth, after an early breakfast, we started
+at seven o'clock to visit the Tombs of the Kings and the temples on the
+west side of the Nile,--the village of Luxor and the temples of Luxor
+and Karnak being on the east side. Crossing the river in ferry boats
+propelled by sails and oars, the tourists found donkeys, boys,
+chair-men, lunch carriers, guides, and extra men crowding the western
+shore. We had hardly landed when the donkey boys surrounded us,
+gesticulating, shouting the merits of themselves and their beasts, and
+pleading that their donkeys might be selected. Much to my surprise,
+Abda, the offended and angry boy of the Karnak ride, pushed his way to
+my side with Alice Lovell and smilingly claimed me as his friend and
+benefactor, with the familiar tale: "Alice Lovell a good donkey; Abda a
+good donkey boy," so our relations were renewed.
+
+The ladies decided that the men's saddles would be more comfortable for
+a long ride, and that there would be less danger of the saddle turning;
+so side saddles were generally dispensed with and most of the women
+mounted astride. From the landing we rode slowly over a long stretch
+of loose sand, tiresome to the donkeys, and then along a good path on
+the embankment of an irrigating ditch. The sun was sending down hot rays
+by the time we reached our first halting place, the Temple of Kurna, and
+we were glad to dismount and seek shelter and rest in the shade of the
+great walls while we examined the beautifully executed reliefs and
+inscriptions.
+
+[Illustration: BESIDE ONE OF THESE IS A SMALL FIGURE OF THE QUEEN.]
+
+In the treasure chamber of the temple, Mahmoud related the story of the
+architect who built the chamber for King Seti. "This rascal of an
+architect," said Mahmoud, "left one stone loose so that he could
+secretly remove it and enter the chamber to steal. The robber was caught
+in the act of carrying off the treasure and fittingly punished as you
+may see represented in the reliefs on the walls. This man pictured here
+in disgrace and chains as a warning to ill-doers was the first thief in
+Egypt, but I am sorry to say he was not the last."
+
+After leaving the Temple of Kurna, which is situated near the cliffs
+that bound the Nile valley, our procession entered a narrow ravine
+through which the path leads to the Tombs of the Kings. Here we met
+another large party of Americans and we all rode together for some
+distance, one of the tourists meeting a friend whom she had not seen for
+seven years. We passed two Englishmen with their guide, who moved off
+the path and gazed through their eye-glasses in mild astonishment at our
+animated cavalcade in varied costumes; while we in turn looked at their
+immaculate sporting outfits and thought how lonely the couple must be,
+traveling through these dismal solitudes. Our party had not thought it
+worth while to purchase special riding outfits for the few days in the
+desert, but had utilized what they had. For protection from the sun some
+used white helmets or cloth neck protectors, some covered their heads
+and necks with veils or tied down their soft hats, others wore straw
+hats or caps regardless of sunburn.
+
+[Illustration: RESTED IN THE SHADE OF THE TEMPLE OF KURNA.]
+
+[Illustration: WE ENTERED THE RAMESSEUM.]
+
+Overhead was an unclouded sky; at each side rose yellow limestone cliffs
+glaring in the noonday sun, and underneath white sand and limestone
+chips reflected the burning rays. Not a sign of vegetation relieved the
+eye in this waterless gorge during our one hour's ride from Kurna to the
+Tombs.
+
+"Backsheesh! backsheesh!" demanded the donkey boys, as we dismounted.
+
+"Why do you want backsheesh now?"
+
+"Boy don't want backsheesh, donkey want backsheesh, donkey eat hay while
+man in tombs."
+
+In order that the Tombs may be satisfactorily examined by visitors, the
+government has built an electric light plant in the gorge and the
+thirty-five tombs are illuminated by electricity. Our party entered and
+examined the six of these tombs which are considered the most
+interesting. At each of these an Egyptian guard politely scrutinized the
+"Services des Antiquites," although it was printed in French that he
+could not read, and then permitted the holder to enter.
+
+[Illustration: STOOD IN THE COLONNADE AT MEDINET HABU.]
+
+In Tomb No. 17, we descended a passage hewn in the limestone cliff,
+about ten feet wide, ten feet in height, and three hundred and thirty
+feet in length, which leads inward and downward by inclines and steps to
+the resting-place of King Seti, a tomb prepared during his life to be
+the receptacle for his mummified remains after death. The smooth
+polished walls and ceilings of the corridors and chambers were
+sculptured by the best artists of Seti's time with reliefs of great
+beauty, representing scenes of a sacred character. The praising of the
+great God Ammon-Re, the offering of incense and gifts to various
+deities, the passage of the boat of the sun, the punishments in the
+underworld, the sacred sun-disk, animal-headed gods, patron goddesses,
+fierce demons, sacred animals, winged serpents, flying spirits, evil
+genii, coiled snakes, and creeping scarabs are portrayed repeatedly.
+
+[Illustration: AT THE TOMBS OF THE KING.]
+
+Mahmoud explained the pictures and inscriptions as we slowly went
+forward, stopping frequently to inspect more closely those of greater
+interest.
+
+"After Seti's death," said Mahmoud, as we stood in the chamber of the
+tomb, brilliantly lighted by the electric bulbs, "his body was embalmed
+and with great pomp and ceremony the mummy was carried from the palace
+in the great city of Thebes through the dismal gorge and deposited in a
+magnificent alabaster sarcophagus that had been prepared for its
+reception in this chamber in the limestone rock ninety feet below the
+surface of the ground. Then the tomb was closed and sealed so that the
+body of the king might remain in peace until it should be called forth
+at the end of time to undergo trial before the god Osiris.
+
+"For hundreds of years, the mummy lay tranquilly in its sealed tomb;
+then the seals were rudely broken and the tomb was despoiled by robbers
+who wished to obtain the valuables deposited with the body. When this
+despoliation was discovered, the rulers of the Empire removed Seti's
+mummy and the mummies of other kings to a tomb near the Temple of
+Der-el-bahri which could be more closely guarded. There the mummies
+remained until the year 1881, when they were taken away to the Museum at
+Cairo."
+
+"And now," said one of the visitors, as the guide concluded, "after
+thirty centuries of repose, the proud features of this oppressor of the
+Israelites, little the worse for the lapse of time, are exposed in the
+great hall of the National Museum in Cairo to the gaze of the rude
+multitude from whom he desired to be hidden, and his alabaster
+sarcophagus is admired by visitors in the Soane Museum of London."
+
+Almost all the articles of value in the Tombs that the robbers did not
+succeed in carrying away, as well as the mummies and sarcophagi, have
+been removed to museums in the large cities, the most valuable being
+retained for the Museum in Cairo. In the tomb of Amenophis II, however,
+the mummy of the king in a decorated coffin remains for the inspection
+of visitors. Above the head of this ruler of the ancient empire, a
+modern electric bulb hangs, illuminating the rugged features and showing
+every detail of high nose, sunken cheeks, and straggling hair on the
+head and chin. The tombs of Ramses III, Ramses IV, and Ramses IX were
+interesting each in its own way. That of Ramses III had, in addition to
+the sacred scenes, pictures of agricultural and family life; plowing,
+sowing, reaping, baking, slaughtering, and cooking.
+
+"Shall we return through the gorge or take the shorter path over the
+cliffs and obtain a view of the Nile valley?" inquired the dragoman.
+
+[Illustration: USED CHISELS ON LASTING STONE INSTEAD OF BRUSHES ON
+PERISHABLE CANVAS.]
+
+Some, dreading the exertion under a broiling sun, chose the level road
+on a donkey's back. Others, intent on obtaining the view, started to
+climb the zigzag path regardless of the glare of the sun, the donkey
+boys following with the donkeys. The view from the summit amply repaid
+us for the climb. On one side we looked down into the desolate valley of
+the Tombs. On the other we saw the rich green valley of the Nile, with
+groups of palms, villages, and temples. Directly below at the foot of
+the yellow cliff, and in strong contrast to it, was the white marble
+temple of Der-al-bahri. And not far from the temple was a cottage, which
+at once became interesting to the tired party when the guide, pointing
+to it, said: "That is the rest-house. A good luncheon will be ready on
+the tables when you arrive there."
+
+[Illustration: POSED TO BE KODAKED.]
+
+We had been riding on a very narrow trail along the edge of a precipice,
+but now we dismounted and descended, on foot, a winding path, too steep
+and dangerous for riding, that led us to the rest-house in the valley
+below. Here, at the Chalet Hatasu, as it was named, the servants had
+unpacked the hampers which they had brought from the hotel at Luxor, and
+the hungry travelers were soon seated around well-spread tables. During
+the meal a throng of scantily clad men, boys, and small children
+assembled outside the Chalet. These bare-footed Arabs offered for sale
+scarabs, stone mummy images, mummified feet, skulls, beads, and trinkets
+so clamorously and persistently that our dragoman had to use his long
+lashed whip to clear the way. After leaving the chalet, naked boys,
+apparently from four to ten years of age, followed us with outstretched
+hands, begging for backsheesh. Some of these boys earned money by posing
+to be kodaked.
+
+[Illustration: I. COLOSSUS OF RAMSES LAY BROKEN.]
+
+[Illustration: II. MOSLEMS HAD MUTILATED THE STATUES.]
+
+[Illustration: TWO WEATHER-WORN FIGURES OF PRODIGIOUS SIZE]
+
+The walls and columns of the Ramesseum, the magnificent temple built by
+Ramses II, and those of Medinet Habu, the great temple built by Ramses
+III, were covered with pictures in relief, made in the golden days of
+Theban prosperity.
+
+"The ancient artists, to perpetuate their work, used chisels on lasting
+stone instead of brushes on perishable canvas," remarked the professor
+as we examined the reliefs, "and their pictures carved on the stone
+walls have endured through centuries."
+
+We saw battle scenes with the king leading in the fray, archers
+discharging arrows, charioteers riding down the foe, and enemies fleeing
+in dismay; triumphal marches with the king borne aloft on a canopied
+litter, fan-bearers waving fans, musicians blowing trumpets and beating
+drums, courtiers bearing standards, and captives led in chains; festal
+processions with the king marching in front, the sacred white bull
+festooned with wreaths, maidens carrying flowers, and priests bearing
+images; and nations paying tribute to the king upon his throne, Nubians
+bringing leopard skins, giraffes, and grinning apes, and princes
+presenting gems, costly vases, and golden shields. One picture at
+Medinet Habu represented the soldiers cutting off the right hands of
+their enemies who had been slain in battle and bringing these gruesome
+emblems of the dead to the secretaries to be counted and recorded. The
+secretaries had counted and recorded twelve thousand five hundred and
+thirty-five hands. To enumerate the many interesting scenes sculptured
+on the temple walls would be like cataloguing a picture gallery.
+
+At the Ramesseum, the enormous Colossus of Ramses lay broken on the
+ground, overthrown by some mighty force.
+
+"This huge granite figure," said Mahmoud, "was, before its fall, the
+largest statue ever carved out of one block of stone. Its height was
+nearly sixty feet, the fingers three feet long, and its weight has been
+estimated at one thousand tons."
+
+The Colossi of Memnon, the two enormous seated figures in the midst of
+level cultivated fields, were passed and photographed as we returned to
+Luxor. Their hugeness may be judged by comparing their size with the
+height of the tourists alongside in the illustration.
+
+"During the weeks of inundation each year," said Mahmoud, after he had
+told us the dimensions of the statues and the mythical stories
+associated with them, "these grain fields as far as the vegetation
+extends are covered with water to a depth of from ten to fifteen feet.
+When the Nile is at its height the heads of the great Colossi,
+surrounded by water, rise forty feet above the flood."
+
+A bath and a thorough brushing of clothes at the hotel removed the
+desert sand. We sipped our afternoon tea in the shaded garden and then
+the party of forty-two persons boarded the Nile steamer Amasis in time
+for an evening dinner on the boat. Suit cases and satchels were unpacked
+and the staterooms made cozy, for the Amasis was to be the tourists'
+home for a number of days during the trip down the Nile.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XV.
+
+ON THE NILE.
+
+
+At daylight on Monday morning, March sixteenth, the Amasis steamed away
+from Luxor and by nine o'clock had arrived at the landing for Dendera.
+The donkey boys of Dendera, having been notified of our coming, were
+waiting with their donkeys. In a few minutes the tourists were mounted
+for a half hour's ride on narrow paths through green barley fields to
+the ruined temple. I rode on a donkey named Whiskey and Soda, with my
+donkey boy Hassan running behind prodding the animal occasionally with a
+sharp-pointed stick, and yelling "Haow! Haow!" to urge Whiskey and Soda
+to a more rapid gait. Along the paths through the fields many children
+ran to greet us with outstretched palms. Their costumes were those of
+the Garden of Eden before the fall; but having been informed of our
+approach, the bronze colored youngsters had decorated themselves for the
+occasion with wreaths of green barley around their waists and crowns of
+the same material on their heads. The little Arabs, bright-eyed,
+smooth-limbed, and handsome featured, attractive and picturesque in
+appearance, shouted with glee when a few small coins were thrown among
+them.
+
+"Look at that!" exclaimed one of the party. "I have heard of the
+shepherds carrying the lambs on their shoulders, but here is a man
+coming with the foal of a donkey in his arms."
+
+"What a dear little pet," said the ladies as the Arab passed us with the
+young donkey nestling contentedly on his breast.
+
+"The famous Temple of Dendera was not so magnificent nor so large as the
+temples of Karnak and Thebes," said the guide, as we stood before the
+gates, "but it was more richly decorated with carvings and paintings.
+Every inch of column, wall, and ceiling was carved with hieroglyphic and
+pictorial decorations. These were painted in bright colors which are yet
+faintly visible. This structure is a modern one compared with Karnak;
+for Karnak was an ancient temple more than one thousand years old when
+King Ptolemy began the erection of this building just before the
+Christian Era. An inscription on the walls states that the time required
+for its construction was one hundred and eight years, six months, and
+fourteen days. When Egypt became a Roman province after the death of
+Cleopatra, the Roman emperors continued the construction of the
+unfinished temple. Augustus, Tiberius, Caligula, Claudius, and Nero are
+represented in reliefs on the walls. The temple was dedicated to the
+worship of the Goddess Hathor, the Egyptian Venus, or goddess of love
+and beauty."
+
+"Why was the temple built here two miles away from the river, instead of
+near the banks of the Nile?" inquired a tourist.
+
+"It was because this terrace is higher than the valley," answered
+Mahmoud. "Remember that these green fields through which we rode are
+made fertile by the overflow of the Nile; then I think that the reason
+for building on this plateau will be plain to you."
+
+[Illustration: DONKEY BOYS WERE WAITING FOR US.]
+
+"But why was it built in a depression?"
+
+"It was not originally in a hole," explained the guide, "but was built
+on level ground. Some sixteen hundred years ago the Christian Roman
+Emperor Theodosius forbade the worship of idols. After that time, the
+worship of the goddess Hathor being discontinued, the temple was
+neglected and a village of mud huts sprang up around it. These huts,
+built of sun-dried bricks, crumbled to dust in the passage of years and
+were trampled under foot. Again and again new huts supplanted the old
+until in the course of centuries the debris accumulated many feet in
+depth. When the government, fifty years ago, undertook to restore the
+temple, the workmen had to begin by shoveling mud huts off the roof."
+
+We descended a long flight of steps to reach the level of the floor of
+the excavated temple, and passing the blue-uniformed guards entered the
+grand hall of columns. The hall, as the guide had told us, was richly
+decorated. Master sculptors had carved every available space on the
+walls and columns with hieroglyphic inscriptions and beautiful reliefs;
+master artists in color had heightened the effect with tint and shade.
+Looking up we saw, pictured on the ceiling, the Egyptian deity, Nut, the
+goddess of the sky, controlling the movements of sun and stars; the rays
+of the sun shining in blessing on the head of Hathor; the moon issuing
+from Nut's mouth; the signs of the Zodiac; the flying Hours of day and
+night; and the sailing boats of the planets.
+
+[Illustration: RICHLY DECORATED WITH CARVINGS AND PAINTINGS.]
+
+The guide raised a stone trap door less than two feet square in the
+stone floor and through this small entrance we squeezed, candle in hand,
+and descended a stone stairway to explore the dark crypt underneath.
+Although the ladies screamed when the bats, disturbed and blinded by the
+light, flew wildly overhead, they bravely followed the guide. The long
+passage was but three feet in width and we wondered why the dragoman had
+brought us down into its close and gloomy recesses; but when magnesium
+wires were lit, our wonder turned into admiration, for the sputtering
+white light revealed on the smooth sidewalls most beautiful reliefs in
+well preserved coloring.
+
+[Illustration: OFFERED INCENSE TO THE GODS.]
+
+"Did you see anything remarkable in that dark cellar?" inquired a voice
+from above as we ascended through the trap.
+
+"Why didn't you come along?" was the laughing response.
+
+"I've not trained down to the proper size yet," rejoined the fat man who
+could be jolly on all occasions. "Do you think that a man of my size
+could squeeze through a hole like that?"
+
+[Illustration: ENTERED THE GRAND HALL OF COLUMNS.]
+
+By a long stone stairway of easy steps we ascended leisurely to the
+roof, stopping frequently to admire the ceremonial procession of priests
+pictured on the walls of the staircase. From the flat stone roof we saw
+on one side the green cultivated fields extending to the river's edge
+and on the other side the yellow desert stretching to the distant
+cliffs.
+
+"This is a picture of Cleopatra and her son Caesarion," said Mahmoud, as
+we inspected the reliefs on the outer walls, "and this is King Ptolemy
+offering incense to the gods Osiris and Isis, and hawk-headed Horus
+their son. Here also is Hathor's picture repeated many times."
+
+The trip down the river Nile on the fine steamer Amasis, which had been
+chartered for us, was thoroughly enjoyed by the forty-two people who
+made up the party. The staterooms were bright and clean and the meals
+served were equal to those of a first class hotel. The captain and his
+officials did all they could to make the trip pleasant for us. Life on
+board was a life of ease; the air though warm was balmy and restful, and
+cares were forgotten. The centre of the upper deck was roofed over but
+open at the sides with rugs on the floor, easy chairs, small tables, and
+a piano. In this open piazza-parlor we sipped the coffee that was served
+to us there after luncheon and after dinner. There, too, we partook of
+the tea and cakes that were handed around at four o'clock, and when we
+returned from excursions on shore, tired and warm, we found refreshing
+lemonade ready to quench our thirst.
+
+[Illustration: RELIEFS ON THE OUTER WALL.]
+
+Our dragoman, Mahmoud Achmed, the Egyptian conductor of all our
+sight-seeing excursions on land, was an interesting character and became
+a great favorite. He was a native of Luxor and while we were at that
+place his bright-eyed little girl, neatly dressed, came to meet us.
+Mahmoud had a fund of information regarding the history of the country,
+the legends of the gods, and the fabulous deeds of the ancient kings. He
+had a most interesting way of interspersing history with mythical tales
+and humorous incidents, and so kept the party in high spirits. Mahmoud
+was noted, too, for his ability to answer intelligently all reasonable
+inquiries and for his great patience in replying to many questions, that
+must have appeared to him very silly. Each day on the boat while we were
+all seated at dinner, Mahmoud came into the dining saloon and announced
+the program for the following days, always beginning: "Ladies and
+gentlemen, if you please," and closing with, "Monument tickets are very
+much wanted. Galloping donkeys is not allowed."
+
+For some one to mislay or forget a permit was a daily occurrence and the
+caution had to be repeated often. As to the donkeys, the riders paid no
+attention to the restriction, but walked, trotted, or galloped the
+donkeys as they felt inclined.
+
+During the daytime Mahmoud wore a plain gown suitable for traveling on
+shore in heat and dust, but in the evenings he was resplendent in robes
+of silk. One night, at the request of one of the ladies, he brought to
+the mid-deck five handsome silk gowns to be inspected by the tourists.
+He also brought his book of references written by people whom he had
+conducted. In this we read the dignified prose of preacher and college
+president, the practical remarks of business men, and the nonsensical
+lines of the rhymster. One of his feminine admirers, seemingly impressed
+by the dragoman's silk robes, polite attention, and general good humor,
+had left the following jingle on the record:
+
+    Who guided us all about the show,
+    Whether we wanted to go or no,
+    And always pleased and made us go?
+                                      Mahmoud.
+
+    Who whipped the donkey when he fell
+    And then the donkey boy as well,
+    And dressed himself a howling swell?
+                                      Mahmoud.
+
+    Who sat so sweetly at my feet
+    With red tarbouche and slippers neat
+    And stirred my heart with many a beat?
+                                      Mahmoud.
+
+    And now, when all the trip is done
+    Rides to temples, and tombs, and fun,
+    We may forget them all save one,
+                                      Mahmoud.
+
+
+[Illustration: THIS IS A PICTURE OF CLEOPATRA AND HER SON.]
+
+Mahmoud took great pride in showing his many references in prose and
+rhyme, and the members of our party were glad to contribute in prose to
+his collection. But at the end of the week we presented him with another
+testimonial of a more practical kind.
+
+"The Nile is a most wonderful river," remarked the professor one evening
+as we sat on the open deck watching the moonlight glisten on the green
+water. "Several other rivers rival it in length; the Congo is noted for
+its size; the Amazon, swelled by great tributaries, discharges a volume
+of water immensely greater; and the Missouri, including the Mississippi
+to the Gulf, may be longer; but the Nile is unique in that for twelve
+hundred miles it flows without a tributary through a rainless region.
+Not a drop of rain nor a single brook adds to its volume in all that
+distance, and a hot sun, canals, ditches, sakiyehs, shadoofs, and water
+carriers are continually taking away from it throughout every mile of
+its winding course. The river is wider here but it has less volume than
+one thousand miles farther up the stream. It is unique also in the
+regularity of the annual inundations, which begin on almost the same
+day, continue the same length of time, and rise to an almost similar
+height each year, and have done so annually for untold centuries. In our
+land a flood is a disaster causing loss and sorrow; in this country it
+is a blessing producing wealth and joy. When the slowly rising waters
+each year reach the figures on the stone column of the Nilometer which
+show that the Nile has spread abroad his fertile bounty by covering the
+cultivable lands, and has filled the dams and ditches for future needs,
+the news is spread abroad and the people rejoice with festivities and
+processions."
+
+[Illustration: 'TWAS SCENES LIKE THESE WE LOOKED UPON.]
+
+Before taking the trip on the Nile we had thought that the days on the
+river might become monotonous and tiresome; but we found, on the
+contrary, that every hour was full of interest. Each day some excursion
+on shore was taken. One day the patient donkeys carried the tourists on
+a long trip to the ruins of the great temple of Seti at Abydos to view
+its sculptured columns and famous list of kings. On another day
+carriages conveyed us to the rock tombs on the limestone hills above
+Assiout and we visited the bazaars and the noted potteries of that busy
+town. On the last day of our sail the donkeys of Bedrashen were called
+into service for a ride through the palm forest and green fields, past
+the fallen columns of Ramses, to Sakkara, the tombs of the sacred bulls,
+and the pictured tombs of Ptahhotep and Ti.
+
+[Illustration: TROD ROUND AND ROUND THE WHEEL.]
+
+[Illustration: THE COLUMNS AT ABYDOS ARE OF GREAT SIZE.]
+
+"This is the height of enjoyment," said a member of our party one day
+while we were lounging in easy chairs taking afternoon tea on the deck,
+and lazily watching the panoramic scenes as the Amasis steamed down the
+river.
+
+[Illustration: DOTTED WITH PILES OF YELLOW WATER-JARS.]
+
+It was scenes like these we looked upon. Along the banks of the river at
+short intervals, the shadoof man, or drawer of water, with his shadoof
+resembling an old-fashioned spring-pole or well sweep, drew up his
+dripping bucket and lowered it again, his only garment an apron at the
+waist.
+
+    All through the day the red-brown man
+    Stands on his perch in the red-brown bank;
+    Waters never more gratefully ran,
+    Cucumbers never more greedily drank.
+
+    --Canon Rawnsley.
+
+Where the bank was very high, a series of two, three, or four natives,
+each with his spring-pole, raised the water one to the other until it
+reached the top and was poured into the little channels that carried it
+over the rich, but very thirsty soil of a rainless land. On the
+river-bank, also, interspersed with the shadoofs of the poorer class of
+agriculturists, the more prosperous farmers, who were the happy
+possessors of buffaloes or camels, lifted the irrigating water from the
+stream by means of sakiyehs, or wooden power wheels, which creaked
+unceasingly as the patient camels or buffaloes, with eyes covered by
+blinders of mud, trod round and round the wheel.
+
+    Rough clout upon his patient head,
+    The stately camel round doth go,
+    With gentle hesitating tread;
+    And yoked, and blind with frontlets, made
+    Of black Nile mud, the buffalo
+    Plies with him his unequal trade.
+
+    --Canon Rawnsley.
+
+A large Dahabeah with rugs, easy chairs, and piano on deck, and the
+stars and stripes hanging listlessly overhead, floated by, propelled by
+fourteen Arab rowers--there being no wind to fill the sails. A drove of
+gray buffaloes, forty in number, were taking their bath, splashing the
+water like a party of schoolboys in a swimming pool. A group of women
+filled earthen jars at the water's edge, and with the dripping jars on
+their heads mounted the steep river bank. Here and there were irregular
+groups of mud huts, intersected by crooked alleys and surrounded by date
+palms, little villages where doves were flying overhead and from which
+came the sound of barking dogs to mingle with the puffs of the steamer.
+Flat-bottomed boats freighted with sugar cane lay with drooping sails in
+a noonday calm, or, later in the day, sped before the evening breeze.
+Near the pottery towns the river banks were dotted with yellow water
+jars in scattered piles ready for shipment to the city market. Immense
+stacks of the sugar-cane just harvested had been brought to the shore
+for conveyance to the sugar factories. And fields of cotton covered with
+white bloom extended into the distance.
+
+We could see, too, the fertile Nile valley, not more than ten miles in
+breadth at its widest part, bounded on both sides by ranges of yellow,
+barren cliffs. On the western side the cliffs were farthest away; on the
+eastern side the valley was narrow, and the cliffs were sometimes
+distant, sometimes so near that they completely crowded out the
+cultivable soil and approached to the water's edge.
+
+"There is something peculiar in the air of this dry land," observed one
+of the tourists after sitting quiet awhile. "The atmosphere lends a
+softness to the outlines of distant objects and adds delicate tints in
+the afternoon light. See how the barren cliffs are glorified with a
+flush of pink, the wheat fields are a brilliant green, and the barley
+fields, almost ready for the harvest, are golden. Even the mud huts and
+the white-washed mosque of that village on the western shore have lost
+their crude outlines and have become picturesque. At sunset the western
+sky will change to crimson and the eastern cliffs will change to gold.
+The sunsets, though, are not so gorgeous in coloring, nor do they show
+such striking contrasts as I have seen occasionally in my western home,
+but they are beautiful."
+
+[Illustration: ALL EYES WERE FIXED ON THE MAGICIAN'S MOVEMENTS.]
+
+During the latter part of our sail down the Nile, where the river
+broadened and was shallow, we had some interesting experiences with
+sandbars.
+
+"This is the Amasis' last trip of the season," said one of the officers
+as we stood on the upper deck at the bow of the steamer watching two
+sailors poling below. "The Nile always falls rapidly in the spring, the
+channels change, new sandbars form, and navigation becomes difficult.
+The water is now very low, and we have to be careful and alert wherever
+the river broadens as it does here before us."
+
+On account of the indications of shallowness ahead the Amasis was
+steaming very slowly, occasionally merely drifting with the current. The
+two Arab boatmen stationed in the bow continually tested the depth of
+the water with poles and shouted in Arabic the results of their
+measurements to the anxious commander on the deck above. Notwithstanding
+these precautions, our steamer occasionally scraped on the sandbars,
+sometimes sticking on them for a short time.
+
+"Surely this is an unlucky day," exclaimed the captain later, looking
+at his watch as we came within sight of a railroad bridge with a draw in
+it that was then being closed for an approaching train. "It is now four
+o'clock, and, according to the official rules, that drawbridge is
+closed for the day and will not be opened for steamers to pass through
+until nine o'clock to-morrow morning. We shall have to anchor here until
+that time. That last stop of half an hour on the sandbar robs us of half
+a day's time."
+
+[Illustration: SHOVING FROM ITS DECK WITH LONG POLES.]
+
+The delay at the bridge was provoking, but a greater test of the temper
+of the officers and patience of the passengers was to come. On Friday
+morning while at breakfast we felt a jar that caused the vessel suddenly
+to stop. We heard an unusual puffing of the engine and felt vibrations
+that caused the steamer to tremble and the dishes to rattle.
+
+"What's the matter? What's the trouble?" cried several.
+
+"Struck another sandbar," laconically remarked the doctor at the end of
+the table. "Eat your breakfast. We'll be off in a few minutes."
+
+But succeeding events proved that the doctor was a false prophet. For
+during the next twenty hours the Amasis lay helpless in the midst of the
+stream, notwithstanding all the attempts of the officials and crew to
+free her from the bar, and it was not until Saturday morning that their
+efforts were crowned with success and the steamer floated free.
+
+However, we took the doctor's advice the first morning and finished our
+omelet and coffee. Then we hurried to the deck to investigate and ask
+numberless questions of the worried officials. Our baggage had been
+packed in anticipation of landing before noon at Cairo, which was but
+sixty miles distant, and we feared that a delay might interfere with our
+plans for a busy afternoon of sight-seeing in the city.
+
+"'Misery loves company,' says an old proverb. If that is true we should
+be happy," remarked one of the tourists as we gathered on the deck
+gazing at an animated scene. "Look! There are thirty boats in the same
+predicament as our own."
+
+[Illustration: PALMS GROW ON THE SITE OF ANCIENT MEMPHIS.]
+
+Within sight in different directions on the wide river lay thirty
+loaded feluccas stranded on the bars, and in addition to these were
+sixty-five others not aground. Alongside of one laden with live cattle a
+dozen sailors were in the shallow water, shouting and splashing,
+endeavoring to push their sloop off the bar. On many of the stranded
+sloops the sailors were transferring parts of their cargoes to other
+boats which were not aground. At some places the dark-hued laborers were
+shoveling grain from a stranded felucca into a lighter one; at others
+they were carrying unwieldy bundles of sugar-cane from one deck to
+another. Here they were handling, with much difficulty, large blocks of
+stone; there throwing yellow water-jars one at a time, passing
+red-bricks slowly, or shifting stacks of green clover from deck to deck.
+They accompanied the work of disburdening the vessels with strange cries
+and chants in which the name of Allah noticeably recurred, occasionally
+stopping to test the result of their labor by plunging into the water
+and pushing the felucca, or by shoving from its deck with long poles.
+
+One of the officers of the Amasis with some sailors in a row-boat
+carried an anchor to its cable's length from the steamer and dropped it
+in the water, then a donkey-engine on deck to which the cable was
+attached was started and the steamer shook with the throbs of the engine
+endeavoring to pull it off the bar toward the anchor. Unsuccessful in
+tugging the steamer in that direction, they raised the anchor into the
+row-boat and took it to other locations one after another; but the
+engine panted and throbbed in vain. In the meantime the captain had gone
+to a village on the shore, had hired sixty natives, and brought them
+out in boats. The Arabs, dropping off their long blue gowns, and arrayed
+only in loin cloths, jumped into the water, which was not over three
+feet in depth. Then, placing their shoulders against the steamer, the
+gang of naked Arabs, chanting in unison a prayer to Allah for help and
+protection, pushed, or pretended to push, in order to assist the puffing
+engine in its task. With intermissions for rest, the pushing, the
+throbbing, and the chanting of the Arabic song, "Allah il Allah, Allah
+il Allah," continued during the remainder of the day.
+
+[Illustration: THE PROSTRATE BROKEN STATUE OF RAMSES II IS ENORMOUS.]
+
+There was so much of interest happening around them that the passengers
+could scarcely take time to eat their meals, and their disappointment in
+not reaching Cairo was almost forgotten.
+
+"This has been to me one of the most interesting days of the trip. I
+will mark it with a red letter," said one of our party in the evening.
+"I do not regret the delay. I would not have missed those amusing and
+novel sights for anything."
+
+When efforts were resumed at dawn on Saturday, the Amasis floated free,
+and before noon we arrived at Cairo. Our joyous trip on the Nile, with
+its pleasant associations of fellow voyagers, dragomen, donkey boys,
+temples, tombs, and gallops over the sand, was at an end.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVI.
+
+NAPLES AND POMPEII.
+
+
+By noon on Sunday, March twenty-second, the various parties had
+reassembled as one large family on board the Moltke in the harbor of
+Alexandria, and shortly afterward they saw the land of the palms
+disappear from sight below the horizon. Friends and acquaintances who
+had chosen different excursions on land and had been separated for some
+time had many experiences to relate to one another. Some, who had taken
+the Damascus trip, gave a description of the magnificent ruins of the
+famous temple of Baalbek and of the enormous size of the granite blocks
+which lay scattered over the ground at that place, and displayed
+bargains in hammered brass and silken rugs which they had secured in the
+bazaars of the oldest city in the world. Others, who had taken a sail on
+blue Galilee and a journey on horseback through the interior of
+Palestine, told of the unexpected luxuries of camp life, of squalid
+villages and more squalid inhabitants, of bridgeless streams that had to
+be forded, of Arab camps and Bedouin chiefs, and of towns, mountains,
+plains, and wells, the names of which were familiar to the student of
+the Bible. They showed to their friends albums in which they had pressed
+the flowers gathered in villages where the Savior once strayed, or
+culled in fields through which He probably had trod. Some who had taken
+a carriage ride to the Dead Sea and the River Jordan described the
+loneliness of the road and the armed Bedouin protectors who accompanied
+them, the dilapidated condition of Jericho, the desolate shores and
+bitter salty taste of the Sea, the muddy banks of the River Jordan and a
+row on the rapid stream. Their souvenirs were vials filled with salt
+water from the Sea, and bottles of the fresh, but not very clear water
+from Jordan's stream.
+
+[Illustration: ON THE BANK OF THE RIVER JORDAN.]
+
+"The only place where we were treated with disrespect during our trip
+was in Hebron," said one of a group around a table in the library.
+"There the natives were an ill-tempered set. They scowled as if
+resentful of our presence, and when we were driving away some hoodlums
+of the town threw chunks of mud and stone after our carriage."
+
+"That reminds me," said another, "of a picture I want to show you. On
+the landing at Esneh up the Nile we thought that our clothes would be
+torn to pieces by the natives, but not through ill-will. The donkey boys
+were so eager to secure our custom that a struggle ensued in which
+donkey boys, donkeys, and tourists were inextricably mixed until the
+dragoman used his whip. My brother took a snap-shot of the scene just as
+Achmet raised his whip."
+
+Some of the tourists had stayed ten days in Jerusalem, some twelve days
+in Cairo, others had been at Philae and the Cataract of the Nile. Each
+one was enthusiastic over his trip and appeared to be satisfied with the
+way in which the eighteen days in Palestine and Egypt had been spent.
+
+Monday dawned cloudy with some wind and rain, and although the weather
+was not stormy, the boat had that uneasy motion which had been felt once
+before on the Mediterranean. Many of the tourists, believing prevention
+better than cure, remained in their staterooms, or, snugly wrapped,
+reclined in their steamer chairs on deck and had luncheon served to them
+there, fewer than half the seats at the dining table being occupied.
+
+On Tuesday, however, the sea was as smooth as a river. The "Captain's
+Dinner," which had been postponed from the previous day on account of
+the weather, was announced for the evening, and the dining room was
+handsomely decorated with flags, garlands of artificial roses, and
+additional lights for the special occasion. The depression of Monday was
+forgotten and the tourists were in a happy humor.
+
+[Illustration: FILLED VIALS WITH WATER FROM THE DEAD SEA.]
+
+At the dinner the Captain made a neat speech referring to the pleasant
+relations during the voyage and the separation which was shortly to take
+place. The judge, in behalf of the passengers, responded in a jovial
+vein. "Three cheers for the Captain" were given with enthusiasm,
+followed by "He's a jolly good fellow," heartily sung. Every one arose
+as the orchestra played "America," and later, when the stars and
+stripes were dropped from overhead, all rose again to accompany the
+orchestra in the "Star Spangled Banner." Then the electric lights were
+turned out and while we sat in darkness, the stewards and waiters,
+dressed in fantastic costumes of various nations, entered and in a long
+procession marched around the room, each waiter carrying aloft an
+illuminated tower of ice-cream, and each steward a dish of bonbons. When
+the bonbons, containing whistles and fancy caps, were opened, the
+dignity of judge, professor, and minister was laid aside and the
+tourists were a joyous, noisy crowd of children.
+
+While we were at dinner the promenade deck was cleared of chairs,
+decorated with flags, and illuminated with Chinese lanterns in
+preparation for a masked ball which was to be the crowning and closing
+event of the day. In this fancy-dress carnival many of the passengers
+appeared dressed in fantastic gowns prepared during the day, or as
+Orientals in costumes that had been purchased in Eastern cities.
+
+While the maskers and onlookers were enjoying the music and sport, the
+Moltke was steaming northward through the Strait of Messina. On the
+right shone the lighthouses of Italy and the lights of the Italian town
+of Reggio; on the left gleamed the flash-lights of Sicily and long rows
+of twinkles revealed the location of the large city of Messina.
+
+On rising Wednesday morning we found the sea perfectly smooth with
+scarcely a ripple to disturb its blue surface. The Moltke was speeding
+through the waters with an almost imperceptible motion. On our left was
+the island of Capri, famous for its blue grotto, and the morning
+sunlight playing on its rugged shores, revealed a white road cut in the
+rocky cliffs, zigzagging up the side of the hill from the village at the
+base to the village on the summit. As the steamer coasted the Italian
+shore, we saw dimly through the mist the bay and town of Salerno, then
+picturesque Sorrento perched among the rocks, and, in the distance,
+fog-crowned Mount Vesuvius with a thin column of smoke ascending from
+the crater, and many towns and villages at its base. Directly ahead of
+us were the bay of Naples and the city, partially hidden from our sight
+by a fog. Just before reaching the quarantine station a small steamer
+crowded with passengers emerged from the fog and crossed the course of
+the Moltke, narrowly escaping destruction.
+
+The Moltke dropped anchor at quarantine and a yellow flag was run to the
+top of the mast to remain floating there until the Italian physician had
+completed his examination and was convinced that there were not, and had
+not been, any cases of plague, cholera, or contagious disease on the
+ship. During the detention at quarantine a large mail was brought on
+board. We crowded eagerly into the office inquiring for letters. The
+stewards, not taking time to distribute the mail in the boxes, called
+out the addresses, and little thought was given to anything else until
+letters and papers were obtained and the news from home devoured.
+
+The fog soon rolled away and Naples, beautifully situated on the
+crescent-shaped shores of the bay, was disclosed to view. From the deck
+of the steamer we saw a picture unsurpassed in color and composition
+by any previously beheld, excepting, perhaps, the view of Constantinople
+from the Bosporus, or the panorama of Algiers seen from the sea; but
+each one of the three pictures was unique and beyond comparison. But
+here, as at Constantinople, distance lent an enchantment to the view;
+for a closer inspection after landing revealed on the white and yellow
+and pink buildings ravages of time and unsightly stains of smoke and
+grime unnoticed from the bay.
+
+[Illustration: THE GREAT DOORWAY OF THE TEMPLE OF HORUS AT EDFU.]
+
+We had no sooner reached the street, ready for sight-seeing, than the
+cabriolet drivers thronged about, importuning us to ride in the low open
+carriages that comfortably carry two persons.
+
+"How much to the Cathedral?" we asked one of the drivers, using an
+expression that we thought the Italian might comprehend.
+
+"One lira the course, one and a half lire the hour," he succeeded in
+getting us to understand.
+
+"Only ten cents each. And it's fully two miles to the Cathedral!"
+exclaimed my companion. "But we have a number of places to visit," he
+added, "and it will be better to engage the cab by the hour. Show him
+your watch and make a note of the time."
+
+At the entrance of the Cathedral, the beggars asking alms reminded us of
+the description of similar scenes at the gate of the Temple in the
+Savior's time. A blind man standing by the door called loudly upon the
+passers-by to have pity on him, a cripple seated on the steps with rough
+crooked crutches by his side stretched out his hand for aid, and a fat
+dirty woman with a tiny babe in her arms whiningly cried, "poveretta
+mia! poveretta mia!"
+
+[Illustration: I. THE ISLAND OF CAPRI.]
+
+[Illustration: II. VILLAGE AT ITS BASE AND VILLAGE ON ITS SUMMIT.]
+
+The regular services in the Cathedral were over when we entered, but
+many people were in the building. Some were in silent adoration before
+the Cross at the magnificent high altar; some were worshiping at the
+foot of the Virgin, or praying at the shrines of the saints; others were
+contritely kneeling at the confessional boxes with faces close to the
+little grated windows, whispering deeds of misdoing to the confessor
+within and awaiting the father's words of penance or of absolution. We
+followed a crowd of Italians who were going into a chapel at the side
+where preparations were being made for a special service. There being no
+pews or sittings in the chapel, but a few plain chairs for hire, we paid
+the verger two cents for the use of a chair and waited. Wooden benches
+were placed in line to form an aisle and a number of women and children
+knelt at the benches, each holding a large unlighted candle.
+
+A cardinal in a red robe came down the aisle, accompanied by a surpliced
+acolyte bearing a cup of oil. As the cardinal passed each kneeling
+person, he dipped his thumb into the oil and then, repeating a formula,
+made a sign of the cross with his thumb on the worshiper's forehead. A
+priest in black cassock and a chorister in white followed the cardinal,
+the priest wiping the foreheads with a piece of cotton and the chorister
+taking the candles which were handed to him as offerings to the church.
+
+The doors of the magnificently adorned Cathedral were open to rich and
+poor alike; but the poor were in the majority, and among them appeared
+such cases of slovenly poverty as we had not seen elsewhere, not even in
+Jerusalem or Constantinople, for in the Moslem cities fountains were at
+the gates of the mosques and no worshiper entered the sacred edifice
+with soiled hands or feet. Three cases of slovenliness we noted
+particularly. A woman of middle age, with tangled hair, torn, untidy
+dress and soiled, stockingless feet partially covered by dilapidated
+slippers, was violating the rules of the church by sidling up to
+strangers and stealthily begging within the building; a boy, probably
+sixteen years of age, hatless, shoeless, coatless, with pantaloons in
+need of patches and body in need of soap, stood gazing curiously at the
+ceremony; and a man whose whole attire consisted of a ragged shirt and
+cotton trousers, with marks of grime on hands, neck, and face, leaned
+carelessly against a pillar with bare feet thrust forward. But these
+were extreme and exceptional cases of untidiness, the worshipers
+generally being neatly clad and careful of their personal appearance.
+
+The military band was playing on a platform when we visited the park and
+the paths and the grass plats were filled with people, many standing and
+a few seated on chairs. Noticing some unoccupied chairs, we sat down to
+listen to the music and watch the life and movement of a Neapolitan
+crowd. We had scarcely taken our places when a woman with a badge and a
+bag approached, demanding ten centessimi for each seat. "Gratia!" she
+said when paid, and "Gratia!" we responded, grateful for a comfortable
+resting place.
+
+"I thought, before we started on this trip, that sight-seeing prolonged
+day after day might become monotonous and that I might lose interest,"
+remarked one of the group seated on the chairs, "but, on the contrary, I
+find continual variety. Our drive through the beautiful residence
+section and suburbs on the heights this morning was charming, and the
+extensive landscape and marine view from the Convent of Camaldoli is
+unsurpassed, save by the view from Mustapha Superieur. Each place
+visited has differed so thoroughly from all the others that my interest
+is as intense now as when we landed at fascinating Funchal."
+
+"In each city I am compelled to replenish my stock of films; I find so
+many pleasing subjects," replied an artist who always had his camera
+with him. "Did you see those women on the hillside road at Capri
+carrying wine kegs on their heads? They posed for me to take a picture
+of the group. It was not necessary to tell them to look pleasant; every
+face wore a smile. I am sorry that my kodak does not reproduce colors.
+The dresses of the women, though worn and faded, were very picturesque
+in their combinations of scarlets, blues, and yellows."
+
+"And I regret that cameras cannot reproduce the beautiful azure and
+silver tints of the interior of the Blue Grotto just as we saw it
+yesterday," said one of the ladies who was collecting photographs and
+postal cards. "I want a good picture of the Grotto Azzurra but I cannot
+find one. Those that are offered for sale are such poor imitations."
+
+After the concert was over, we entered the salt water aquarium of
+Naples, which is famous throughout Europe as the finest and largest
+ichthyological collection in the world. In the glass tanks curious sea
+fish darted through the water, grotesque sea monsters crawled over the
+pebbles, and transparent jelly fish floated slowly; pink and white sea
+anemones, like a bed of flowers, opened and closed, and diminutive sea
+animals, almost invisible, spread thread-like tentacles; sponges and
+coral grew upon the rocks, and mollusks showed by their movements that
+they had life.
+
+One evening we drove to the suburban village of Posilipo and from the
+cliffs at that place saw the sun descend in glory, a golden ball
+dropping into a radiant sea. While we were returning, a picturesque
+beggar with a crooked stick and one string across it trotted alongside
+our carriage, trying to convince us that he was a musician and his music
+worth a penny. At dusk, an Italian boy ran alongside the carriage,
+opened and lit the carriage lamps while the horse was moving at a rapid
+gait, and asked for payment.
+
+Naples is a city of striking contrasts. It was interesting to study
+them. We drove over well paved streets, admiring marble palaces, great
+hotels, and beautiful homes; but with feelings very different from
+admiration we walked through narrow, filthy thoroughfares, densely
+populated, where networks of clothes lines with garments of all colors
+hung overhead. We saw high-spirited horses and superb carriages in the
+avenues and parks, and teams of handsome cream-colored oxen in the
+suburbs: but we saw also in the highways, small, rough-coated donkeys
+overburdened with panniers of fruit; tall, bony horses mismatched with
+diminutive donkeys; incongruous teams composed of a cow and a donkey,
+or a large ox and a small cow; and a team even more grotesquely made up
+of a horse, a cow, and a donkey. We saw the elite of the city elegantly
+dressed in the latest fashion promenading in the shopping districts; but
+on the sidewalks of the tenement district we saw slovenly barefooted
+women washing clothes, cooking maccaroni, scrubbing children in a tub,
+and combing children's hair with fine combs, regardless of our curious
+gaze. Here, too, we saw boys, apparently eight or ten years of age,
+playing in the streets with no other clothing than a shirt reaching to
+the knees, and women peddlers of mineral water dressed in ragged red
+blouses and blue skirts, who, with disordered hair and stockingless,
+slipshod feet, shuffled by pushing hand-carts filled with earthen jugs.
+
+[Illustration: PEASANT GIRLS THEIR BURDENS BEAR.]
+
+On the avenues street peddlers besought us to purchase canes, matches,
+coral beads, and souvenirs cut out of lava, but asked prices four or
+five times their actual value. On the narrow streets dealers in cooked
+viands for the home trade did an active business at low prices, but did
+not think it worth while to offer us the hot potatoes, maccaroni, fried
+fish, and stewed meats which they prepared on little sidewalk stoves.
+
+[Illustration: AMALFI, WHERE THE WAVES AND MOUNTAINS MEET.]
+
+The trip from Naples to Pompeii was made by rail in less than an hour.
+At the gates of the enclosure we each paid an admission fee of two lire,
+or forty cents, and official guides were assigned to conduct the party
+through the streets of the excavated city.
+
+"About one hundred and fifty years ago," explained the guide, "a farmer
+ploughed up some objects of art in this locality. The government,
+hearing of the discovery, ordered investigation to be made. Removal of
+the soil disclosed a house and furniture and articles of value. The
+excavations, carried on irregularly for a century, then continued
+regularly but slowly for the past fifty years and still in progress,
+revealed the ancient city that had been smothered in ashes and buried
+from sight for eighteen hundred years. The wooden roofs, crushed in by
+the weight above them, had crumbled into dust, but the walls and
+columns, the altars and statues, the fountains and baths, the paved
+streets and mosaic pavements, and the frescoes on the walls had been
+preserved by the covering of ashes, and were in almost as good condition
+as when deserted by the terror-stricken inhabitants. All articles of
+value, as soon as found by the excavators, were carried away to the
+museums and carefully preserved; but the uncovered walls were left
+exposed to the weather, and, as you will see, are badly damaged and
+defaced. The government for the past few years, however, has been
+protecting the newly excavated buildings by enclosing and roofing them
+over, and in these we shall find the beautiful Pompeian red and blue
+colors and the dainty frescoes well preserved on the walls."
+
+[Illustration: BEARING PANNIERS OF FRUITS AND VEGETABLES.]
+
+This ancient city of probably only twenty-five thousand inhabitants had
+improvements that we now designate as modern. The streets, just wide
+enough for one wagon track with narrow footways on each side, were paved
+with square flat stones in which the chariots had cut deep wheel ruts.
+The public baths had separate rooms for men and women, exercise courts,
+sweating rooms, furnace heat, hot baths, cold baths, capacious marble
+plunge tanks, and cooling rooms in which the bathers, cleansed, oiled,
+and perfumed, could rest after the bath. The water supply was
+distributed through the city in the same manner as in our own cities.
+Lead water pipes conducted the water through streets and into buildings.
+Bronze stopcocks governed the fountains, and bronze inlets and outlets
+regulated the supply at the marble baths.
+
+"The Pompeian plumbers used good material and did good work," commented
+a manufacturer after examining the plumbing.
+
+"If I could produce paints that would endure for centuries, and have
+them laid on as the Pompeian artists applied them, my fortune would soon
+be made," remarked another, who had been impressed particularly by the
+brightness of the red and blue on the walls of the House of Sallust.
+"But," he added, "the secret of making paint that will endure the
+ravages of time has been lost."
+
+In a baker's shop we saw four small stone mills in which grain had been
+converted to flour by hand power, the stones having been revolved by
+means of long wooden handles. Near the mills was an oven similar to
+those of the present time.
+
+"In this oven a number of loaves of bread were found," said the guide.
+
+"Yes," answered one of our party, "we saw fourteen loaves in the Museum
+of Naples yesterday and were told that it was the oldest bread in
+existence. The loaves were well preserved in form but were as black as
+charcoal."
+
+[Illustration: MADE A PICTURE THAT PLEASED THE ARTIST.]
+
+Our interest in Pompeii was heightened by our previously having visited
+the Naples Museum, where a multitude of articles found during the
+excavations were on exhibition. There we had examined hundreds of
+objects of art, marble statues, bronze statues, mosaics, vases,
+frescoes, and paintings; we had seen thousands of ornaments for personal
+adornment, necklaces, cameos, bracelets, rings, chains, and toilet
+accessories and had looked at numberless articles for household use,
+such as stoves, lamps, dishes, and kitchen utensils. Even food was not
+lacking in the exhibition, being represented by olives in a jar, oil in
+bottles, charred walnuts, almonds, figs, wheat, and eggs. These things,
+abandoned by the fugitives in their wild flight, helped us to imagine
+the taste and manner of living of the Pompeians before the destruction
+of their city.
+
+"This is the Amphitheatre," said the guide, as we assembled around him
+in the arena of a large structure. "Here fights between wild beasts,
+gladiatorial combats, and other great spectacles took place. Underneath
+the seats on one side are the dens where the lions and tigers were kept
+in a starving condition to make them ferocious, and underneath on the
+other side are the dungeons where prisoners were confined until forced
+into the arena to meet the wild beasts. On the hill nearby are the
+barracks where the gladiators lived and trained for combats." An
+announcement of an oldtime entertainment remains inscribed on one of the
+stone walls. It reads as follows:
+
+     Twenty pairs of gladiators, at the expense of Decimus, a priest,
+     and ten pairs of gladiators, at the expense of Lucretius, will
+     fight at Pompeii on the eleventh of April. There will be a complete
+     hunting scene, and the awnings will be spread.
+
+Another inscription on the wall stated:
+
+     On the dedication of the baths, at the expense of Maius, there will
+     be a hunt, athletic sports, showering of perfumes, etc., at the
+     Amphitheatre.
+
+"There was also a Tragic Theatre in Pompeii," continued the guide. "It
+was reserved for dramatic performances. The stone tiers seated an
+audience of five thousand. The Amphitheatre and the Tragic were open to
+the sky, but both were provided with awnings that could be spread above
+the seats to protect the people from the sun."
+
+[Illustration: I. LATELY EXCAVATED ARE CAREFULLY PROTECTED.]
+
+[Illustration: II. PUBLIC BATHS WITH ARCADES.]
+
+Almost all of us had read Bulwer-Lytton's novel, "The Last Days of
+Pompeii," and were familiar with his vivid description of the fearful
+eruption of Vesuvius which overwhelmed the city in the year A.D.
+79,--the darkness, the terror of the people, the hasty flight, the roar
+of explosions, the volcanic lightnings, the scorching ashes, the
+sulphurous fumes, and the hot rain. Very interesting to us were the
+places described by Bulwer in his novel; the dwelling of the magistrate
+Pansa, the villa of the wealthy Diomede where eighteen skeletons
+surrounded by provisions and jewels had been found, the house of the
+poet Glaucus whose threshold was guarded by the mosaic of a chained dog
+with the now well known motto 'Cave Canem' or 'Beware of the Dog.' Most
+interesting, perhaps, was the Temple of Isis, in which the most exciting
+incidents of Bulwer's novel took place. There the guide showed us the
+altar, the well, the secret stairway, the platform from which the oracle
+spoke, and the spot where the skeleton of the priest with an ax was
+found.
+
+"Broken columns and ruined walls are all that remain of the grandeur of
+the Forum," explained the guide as he led the way through a triumphal
+arch into a large area. "These extensive marble-paved floors were once
+decorated with statues of the illustrious men of Pompeii."
+
+"The Forum was a bustling place," he continued, as we stood in the
+centre of the area. "In the open court the people met to exchange
+opinions and obtain the news. On the porticoes the money changers made
+loans and the brokers sold real estate and grain. It was the political
+center of the city. Here the magistrates administered justice. Here
+the populace met with joyful acclamations to raise a favorite to power,
+and here, too, angry mobs gathered to compel an offending ruler to
+vacate his office. It was the religious centre as well; for adjoining
+the Forum are the ruins of the Temple of Mercury, the Temple of Venus,
+the Temple of Jupiter, and the Temple of Augustus."
+
+[Illustration: MOST INTERESTING, PERHAPS, IS THE TEMPLE OF ISIS.]
+
+When we were ready to leave Pompeii, after a tramp through other streets
+and a visit to the Museum, the subject of giving a fee to the guide was
+considered. At the gate when entering we had read a notice stating that
+guides furnished by the government were not permitted to accept fees
+from visitors. The guide assigned to us, however, had been very obliging
+and had given much interesting information. Appreciating this we slipped
+into his hand secretly at parting a token of our good will. "Gratia!
+Gratia!" very heartily he responded, assuring us that our gift, the
+forbidden, was acceptable.
+
+After returning from Pompeii to our steamship we found that although the
+evening hours had arrived, the harbor was still a scene of animation.
+Scores of Italian stevedores were carrying baskets of coal on their
+shoulders from barges into the bunkers of the Moltke. Near by other
+laborers were hoisting crates of lemons and oranges and lowering them
+into the hold of an English steamer. A little rowboat with a stove on
+board was running a brisk restaurant business, selling bread, coffee,
+fried eggs, fried potatoes, and fried fish to boatmen and laborers, who
+managed to devour the viands without assistance of plate, knife, or
+fork.
+
+Alongside our steamer a number of boys in a rowboat were making a
+distracting noise with tin pans and crude instruments, looking up in the
+hope that some one would pay them for creating a disturbance. In another
+boat, gaily attired Neapolitan musicians played and sang popular airs in
+a pleasing way that drew coins from the pockets of the hearers. At the
+close of each piece of music one of the women held a spread umbrella
+upside down to catch the coppers that were dropped into it from the deck
+thirty feet above.
+
+"The daylight ends too soon," regretfully observed one of our party, an
+artist of considerable reputation, who, seated in his favorite nook near
+the stern, was endeavoring to complete his color notes and sketches of
+the picturesque scenes before the darkness hid them from view. "But the
+sky above the mountain is reddening and the glow of Vesuvius will give
+me work for to-night."
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVII.
+
+NICE AND MENTONE.
+
+
+Throughout the cruise to the Orient, up to the time of departure from
+Naples, our party of tourists had the great steamer to themselves, there
+being no other passengers on board. At Naples, however, a change took
+place. As the Steamship Company granted us the privilege of remaining
+over in Europe and returning later in the season in some other steamer
+of the same line, a large number of the tourists left the Moltke at
+Naples for side trips on the Continent, and many more intended to leave
+at Nice; so that not more than one-fourth of the original number was
+booked to return direct from Nice to New York. During the time our
+steamer lay at Naples a cargo of freight was taken on board, and on the
+day of departure one thousand steerage passengers ascended the gangway,
+some with valises of curious shape, a few dragging trunks, but the
+greater number with all their possessions in bags or bundles.
+
+At ten o'clock on the night of March thirtieth, we stood at the rail
+watching the lights on the shore gradually disappearing from sight as
+the Moltke steamed away from the harbor.
+
+"What must be the thoughts of these Neapolitan exiles as they sail away
+from 'Sunny Italy,' their place of birth, their homeland, and their
+friends?" mused my friend, referring to the emigrants gazing farewell
+to their native land.
+
+[Illustration: MANY CLOTHES-LINES WERE FILLED.]
+
+"There is sadness in their hearts, for their faces and attitudes show
+it," said he, answering his own question. "Some of the women are
+shedding tears. But they are all hopeful. They have heard that in the
+promised land there is plenty of work, high wages, enough to eat, and,
+what is far better, opportunity to rise. In Italy there is scarcity of
+work, low wages, a chunk of black bread, and nothing better to look
+forward to in the future."
+
+"You are right, young man, there is something to look forward to in
+America, an opportunity to rise in the world," said a fellow tourist,
+well known as a man of wealth and distinction. "I can sympathize with
+these poor people who are seeking to better their condition. Thirty
+years ago I was a poor man, leaving Europe in the steerage as an
+emigrant to the land of promise. I worked my way to the West, became a
+miner, and met with success."
+
+"To reach America appears to be the desire of many in Italy," remarked
+another. "In the elevator of one of the hotels in Naples I found the
+elevator boy studying an English spelling book. He said, 'I am going to
+America as soon as I have money enough; there is a chance for me to
+become something if I can get to New York.' A cab driver asked me if I
+knew his cousin in Chicago. 'My cousin,' said he, 'saved enough money to
+buy a third-class passage to New York. That was just three years ago.
+Now he is sending money home to his friends to take them over. He must
+be doing well. We never have any money to give away.' Money to spare for
+his friends! That told the cabman the story of a golden land."
+
+On Tuesday, as we sailed northward, we passed the island of Elba, on
+which the banished Napoleon remained ten months after his abdication. We
+endeavored to recall the history of the events that preceded the great
+Emperor's first downfall; the campaign in Russia, the burning of Moscow,
+the winter retreat, the depletion of the grand army by frost and hunger.
+But when the little island of Monte Cristo came in sight, memory
+brought to mind pleasanter recollections,--Dumas' story of the "The
+Count of Monte Cristo," so wonderful in our youthful days, Edmond
+Dantes' escape from the dungeon, the cave on the island, and the
+fabulous wealth concealed therein.
+
+On the day of arrival at Nice, hundreds of owners of automobiles from
+all parts of Europe were assembled in that city for trials of speed; the
+morning races had taken place and the dust-covered racers were just
+coming in from their fast runs. On the way to the hotel we saw an
+automobile run over one man and knock another down. An excited French
+woman who was rolled over in the dust but not injured followed the
+offending car to the garage with tongue, hands, and arms all in rapid
+motion. She was giving the chauffeur a tongue-lashing and calling his
+attention to her soiled clothing. Her tirade prompted the chauffeur to
+draw some coins from his pocket and place them in her hand, and then her
+hurt feelings apparently were quickly relieved.
+
+Nice has a delightful climate. It is protected from the cold winds of
+the north by hills and mountains and fanned by the mild breezes of the
+sea. Royalty, beauty, and wealth make their abode in this favorite
+resort on the shore of the Mediterranean during the winter season, and
+English lords, French counts, Russian princes, German barons, and
+American millionaires sojourn at the magnificent hotels or reside in
+beautiful villas.
+
+The season of gaiety was just closing when we arrived and the hotels
+were not crowded, yet there was much to see. It was a pleasure to drive
+on the clean, well-paved avenues, which are shaded by great trees and
+lined with handsome homes and white stone hotels, passing lawns and
+gardens filled with palms, roses, choice flowers, and blooming vines. It
+was interesting to stroll along the sea front for two or three miles on
+a stone pavement fifty feet wide, the popular promenade of the city,
+with the waves of the blue sea rolling almost to your feet on one side
+and the wide avenue filled with handsome teams and motor-cars of every
+description on the other. It was entertaining to secure a chair in the
+park during the afternoon concert, and, comfortably seated, listen to
+the military band, admire the gowns of the French women, and note the
+variety of uniforms worn by the French officers. Those afternoons in the
+park were very restful for there was no hurry nor confusion nor crying
+of wares for sale, and the balmy sea breeze had a soothing effect on the
+nerves.
+
+The weather was delightful and the air pure and clear when, on the
+morning of April fourth, a party of sixteen filled the seats of a
+four-horse drag for a drive from Nice to Mentone over the famous
+Corniche road, a round trip of over forty miles, noted as one of the
+finest drives in Europe. We had decided to go to Mentone over the Upper
+Corniche road, which winds among the mountains, and return by the Lower
+Corniche road, which follows the shores of the sea.
+
+Our driver snapped his long-lashed whip and the horses started off as
+gaily as if they shared our exuberant spirits.
+
+"That is the river Paillon," said the driver, pointing to a diminutive
+stream in the midst of a wide stony bed. "The river has very little
+water in it now, but when the snow melts in the mountains it becomes a
+torrent."
+
+[Illustration: I. WINDS AMONG THE MOUNTAINS.]
+
+[Illustration: II. FOLLOWS THE SHORE OF THE SEA.]
+
+The little stream had a peaceful look. Many washer-women were busily at
+work along its banks, many clothes lines were filled with drying
+garments, and sheets were bleaching on the stones. A number of red
+objects in the distance proved, as we drew nearer, to be a company of
+red-trousered French soldiers washing their linen in the stream. Another
+company in red trousers and white shirts marched by us, carrying their
+bundles to the river. After leaving the river we passed an immense
+public wash trough where forty women were washing clothes and apparently
+having a social time. There was room at the trough for double that
+number.
+
+The macadamized road winding up the mountain side in easy grades,
+supported at many places by walls of substantial masonry, was in perfect
+condition. Occasionally as our team moved slowly upward we heard the
+"honk, honk" of a horn and a racing automobile making a time record flew
+swiftly by and was soon out of sight, or rushing down grade around sharp
+curves at tremendous speed toward us caused some hearts in our coach to
+palpitate in anxiety until the racer had safely passed.
+
+"At this spot a Russian Count and his friend were killed on the morning
+of the races," said our driver as we rounded one particularly sharp
+curve. "The count, expecting to be a winner in the race, was speeding
+his motor-car at the rate of fifty miles an hour, when it swerved
+against the rocks and he and his friend were hurled over the wall and
+crushed to death."
+
+[Illustration: WE LUNCHED IN MENTONE.]
+
+As we ascended the mountains we saw on the slopes below us orchards of
+gray olive trees, in the valleys orchards of dark green orange and lemon
+trees filled with yellow fruit, clean looking white or yellow or pink
+houses with red tile roofs dotting the landscape, and the white stone
+Hotel Regina, beautiful for situation, standing prominent on a summit.
+The rocks in the channel of the Paillon appeared to be a bed of pebbles.
+In the distance, to the south, could be seen the buildings of the city
+we had left and the glistening waters of the sea beyond; on the north,
+wooded hills and terraced mountains; and far away, the snow covered
+summits of the Alps. While we gazed at one of these scenes of beauty,
+the soft mellow tones of a convent bell came pleasingly to our ears.
+
+"Why is it the bells ring so sweetly here?" inquired one of the
+occupants of our coach. "It must have been melodious notes like these
+that pleased the ear of the poet Moore."
+
+At each turn of the road our point of view changed and the panorama
+unrolled before us. We looked down upon a series of beautiful pictures.
+The Mediterranean lay two thousand feet below us, its surface reflecting
+every shade of blue and green, its coast a succession of inlets, bays,
+promontories, and peninsulas. White roads winding among the shrubbery on
+the peninsulas looked like white ribbons on a green background, the red
+tiled houses like little toys, and the harbor of Ville Franche like a
+pond on which floated tiny boats that a child might play with.
+
+"What a picturesque town!" exclaimed a tourist.
+
+"That is the city of Eze. It is a very old city," said the driver.
+
+"Perched among the mountains, with its odd castle on a detached hill
+top," said one of the tourists "it reminds me of a painting by one of
+the old masters. Cimabue, I think, or Perugino. I cannot remember which.
+I am constantly regretting while traveling abroad that we are not more
+proficient in history and art. While the professor and the artist were
+with the party we could turn to them for information. But now we must
+depend upon ourselves."
+
+"Not necessarily," replied another, "for we have Baedeker and the
+guides; and there are the drivers, too, to call upon when they can
+understand our English or we can understand their French."
+
+For some distance beyond Eze the road followed the side of rugged
+limestone cliffs surmounted by fortifications and signal stations. At
+the old, queer-looking town of La Turbie, while the horses rested for an
+hour, we selected postal cards and took kodak views. Soon after leaving
+La Turbie, while descending the mountain, we looked down upon the little
+principality of Monaco, its capital, the city of Monaco, the palace of
+the Prince built upon a rocky promontory, and the white buildings of
+Monte Carlo.
+
+Mentone is a popular winter resort on the Mediterranean with handsome
+houses and flower-filled gardens. Vineyards and groves of orange, lemon,
+and fig trees, cover the hillsides surrounding the city. We lunched in
+Mentone, and were entertained under the palm trees of the hotel garden
+by a band of Italian musicians, one of whom, an amusing character actor
+as well as singer, responded cheerfully to our requests for special
+selections and solos.
+
+[Illustration: THROUGH THE PARK THAT SURROUNDS THE CASINO.]
+
+Our return from Mentone to Nice was through a succession of
+towns and villages. Along this coast road are many white hotels,
+comfortable-looking villas, and trimly kept lawns. In the gardens there
+were century plants, orange, lemon, and palm trees, and rose bushes of
+great size covered with bloom. On the tops of the garden walls, plants
+of various kinds were growing. Some of the walls were covered with long
+clusters of pink geraniums, some gracefully festooned with masses of
+overhanging heliotrope, and others draped with trailing vines aglow with
+scarlet bloom. The exuberant growth and bloom of these flowers attracted
+much attention and drew forth exclamations of delight.
+
+"Did you ever see geraniums and heliotropes growing in such luxuriance?"
+asked one of the ladies.
+
+"Only in my own state," replied a Californian. "There the plants grow to
+immense size and bloom in profusion."
+
+"Do not forget charming Funchal," said another. "Remember that there we
+saw geraniums and fuschias of wonderful size, and vines of pink
+bouguainvillia that covered the mountain-side cottages."
+
+At Monte Carlo, as we drove through the park that surrounds the white
+marble gambling palace, we admired the magnificent parterres of flowers,
+the beds of pansies being especially beautiful in variety of color and
+size of the flowers. On the piazza of the Cafe de Paris, where a band
+was playing, we had afternoon tea and from there watched the throng of
+visitors who were moving along the palm-lined paths or were ascending or
+descending the marble steps of the Casino.
+
+"Is there a charge for admittance?" we inquired of the guard at the
+entrance of the white palace.
+
+"No," he replied. "Present your visiting card at the desk of the
+Secretary in the corridor. He will approve. Then, after you have
+registered your name, a card of admission will be given you."
+
+In the decorated rooms where the games of chance were in operation, many
+handsomely gowned women and well-dressed men were moving from place to
+place conversing in quiet tones, but crowds were centered around the
+roulette tables, where the chairs were all occupied and many people were
+standing. We joined the throng around one of these and saw that the
+table was divided into numbered spaces, some colored red and some black.
+In the centre of the table was a little wheel with spaces to correspond
+in number and color to those on the table. The stakes were silver five
+franc pieces, one or more. No other coins nor bills were permitted on
+the table.
+
+"I will try it," said one of our party after watching the game awhile.
+"I will place a five franc on number seven black."
+
+The table was dotted with silver coins. The croupier touched a spring
+that sent a small ball spinning around the wheel. The ball stopped in
+space three red.
+
+"Three red wins," announced the croupier.
+
+A woman with gray hair and large diamonds in her ears picked up her
+winnings and added them to the stack of silver on the table in front of
+her, and the croupiers with wooden rakes raked in scores of coins that
+had been laid on losing numbers.
+
+At some of the tables in the magnificent apartments of the Casino the
+stakes were higher, twenty franc gold pieces being used, and at these
+tables, eager players, infatuated with the game, hazarded handfuls of
+gold on the turn of the wheel.
+
+"The chances to win or lose appear to be about even," said the
+Californian. "They must, however, be in favor of the Casino; for the
+company requires a large income to meet the enormous expenses incurred
+in keeping up this handsome palace and grounds with thousands of
+employees, croupiers, guards, gardeners, and care-takers. In addition,
+the company pays a heavy tax to the Prince of Monaco, and yet is said to
+have large profit."
+
+[Illustration: THE POPULAR PROMENADE OF THE CITY.]
+
+When our coach arrived at the hotel in Nice some one remarked: "You
+appear to be enthusiastic over your drive." We were; there was no doubt
+about it, and we might well have added that we were just as well pleased
+with the whole trip to the Orient. We started with great expectations
+and we were not disappointed.
+
+At Nice, when the Moltke sailed for New York, we parted with feelings of
+regret from many pleasant friends and companions whose acquaintance we
+had made during the trip, and with whom we had been agreeably associated
+on sea and on land.
+
+       *       *       *       *       *
+
+Transcriber's Note:
+
+Minor spelling and typographical errors have been corrected without
+note. Some Illustrations have been moved to avoid splitting paragraphs
+and make smoother reading.
+
+Noteworthy corrections:
+Pausanius => Pausanias (p. 110)
+re-remarked => remarked (p. 254)
+cavaran => caravan (p. 281)
+Mahmond => Mahmoud (p. 338)
+symphathize => sympathize (p. 380)
+millionaries => millionaires (p. 381)
+exlaimed => exclaimed (p. 386)
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's A Trip to the Orient, by Robert Urie Jacob
+
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