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+The Project Gutenberg eBook, An Account of Our Arresting Experiences, by
+Conway Evans
+
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+
+
+
+Title: An Account of Our Arresting Experiences
+
+
+Author: Conway Evans
+
+
+
+Release Date: January 28, 2010  [eBook #31115]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1
+
+
+***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK AN ACCOUNT OF OUR ARRESTING
+EXPERIENCES***
+
+
+E-text prepared by Brown University Library and the Project Gutenberg
+Online Distributed Proofreading Team (http://www.pgdp.net) from page
+images generously made available by Internet Archive/American Libraries
+(http://www.archive.org/details/americana)
+
+
+
+Note: Images of the original pages are available through
+      Internet Archive/American Libraries. See
+      http://www.archive.org/details/accountofourarre00evan
+
+
+
+
+
+AN ACCOUNT OF OUR ARRESTING EXPERIENCES
+
+by
+
+CONWAY EVANS
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+Privately Printed
+1914
+
+[One Hundred Copies printed]
+
+D. B. Updike, The Merrymount Press, Boston
+
+
+
+
+TO MY TWO PLUCKY LITTLE
+FELLOW PRISONERS
+
+
+
+
+AN ACCOUNT OF
+OUR ARRESTING EXPERIENCES
+
+
+We had been travelling for many weeks,--Lyra Nickerson, Katherine
+Schermerhorn, and I,--and after a beautiful tour through Germany, we
+arrived at Berlin on the evening of July 29, 1914. We had planned to
+spend a few days there preparatory to embarking at Hamburg in the
+Viktoria Luise for a northern cruise, and were looking forward to a
+short stay in the splendid capital. When we had secured our rooms at
+the Hotel Adlon, we found to our dismay that Kitty's box had not come
+through from Dresden, our last stopping-place. I went downstairs and
+interviewed the porter. He explained that, owing to the talk of war,
+many people were leaving their summer quarters, so that traffic was
+considerably congested. In this wise did the little cloud appear upon
+our horizon.
+
+The following morning (Thursday) we went sightseeing, and in the
+afternoon--as Lyra was not feeling well--Kitty and I each went our own
+way. At five o'clock we met in the hall of the Adlon, where we had
+tea with her cousin, Mr. Gear, and his friend, Mr. Cluett. Later she
+and I went to a superb concert at the Frederichshain and heard
+Thornberg, the violinist.
+
+On Friday morning a little German friend whom I had not seen for many
+years came to visit me. I asked her if war were likely. She replied:
+"Certainly not. All danger is now over." This was encouraging, for I
+thought she knew what she was talking about.
+
+In the afternoon we hired an automobile, and motored out to Potsdam.
+Then when we were outside the old Palace we heard that the Kaiser's
+"strong-for-peace" policy had been of no avail, that the Czar had
+insulted his messenger, and that now war was inevitable. We ourselves,
+chameleon-like, assumed the German colour. We believed what we were
+told, and felt sorry for the man who was called upon unwillingly to
+shed his nation's blood. On our way back to the hotel Kitty and I went
+to see Mr. Schermerhorn's cousin, Miss Barber, and then we realized
+the immediate gravity of the situation. She told us that now war
+_must_ come, and she also told us that the Viktoria Luise would not
+sail. With quickened pulses we drove back to the Adlon, where the
+lounge was crowded with buzzing, excited people. Then we dressed, and
+went to the "Admiral's Palast" to see the exquisite Ice Ballet. While
+we were admiring the skating, and sympathizing with the fascinating
+Pierrot whose heart was broken by the cruelty of the dainty jointed
+Doll, we were able to forget grim reality--to forget that the bonds
+that had held captive the great Fiend were being cut, and that he was
+yawning after his long sleep, and stretching his cramped limbs.
+
+The following morning Lyra realized the desirability of leaving Europe
+and of raising funds. She ordered the car, and we went to the office
+of the Holland American Line to try and secure the Imperial Suite, but
+without avail: no passages were to be had. Then we drove to five
+banks, and cashed a certain amount of her letter of credit at each
+one. At the Dresdener Bank she was informed that the Czar might
+capitulate even yet, and that in any case there would be three days of
+peace. Thereupon our spirits rose, and we began to make wild schemes.
+Even if Germany and Russia did go to war, why should we not tour in
+the Ardennes? Belgium would be a nice quiet neutral country to remain
+in, till we could secure passage to America.
+
+In the afternoon we drove out to Schmockwitz and spent a placid time
+on the Miggelsee, but when we returned to Berlin we found the Unter
+der Linden seething with dense crowds of excited people and the whole
+atmosphere charged with electricity. At dinner Mr. Gear came up to our
+table. "You had better get out of this as soon as you can," he said.
+"There is going to be trouble at once."
+
+Sunday morning Kitty was awakened very early by a stormy altercation
+in the room next to hers. She knocked on the wall, but no notice was
+taken of her remonstrance. After we had had breakfast, Lyra went
+downstairs and chartered an auto for 750 marks. The owner would not
+promise to take us farther than Hannover, owing to the difficulty of
+procuring petrol, and moreover both car and chauffeur were required in
+a couple of days for military duty. We consulted a large map, and
+decided to motor _via_ Hannover to Osnabrück, and then go on to the
+frontier, wherever that might be.
+
+When I had finished packing I rang for the porter to strap my trunk,
+but he did not come. I continued ringing with much vigour, and finally
+the nice little housemaid appeared on the scene and a flood of
+volubility broke over me. The porter was busy. He could not come. All
+Russians in the hotel were being arrested as criminals, for Russians
+had fired on a frontier town and war was declared. The hotel had been
+full of detectives for several days, and one "criminal" had had the
+room next to our suite. This piece of information explained the noise
+in No. 140. The occupant had evidently rebelled at being arrested so
+early in the morning! When I passed his room his captors were waiting
+for him, and he was calmly finishing off his toilette. The big lounge
+of the hotel was like a hive of swarming bees, and poor Mr. Louis
+Adlon looked simply worn out with worry; but he was so kind and
+courteous! I shall never forget all the trouble he took for us.
+
+We got off at about 12.30 in a magnificent Benz, driven by one of the
+best-looking boys imaginable. The hand luggage was piled inside the
+car, so I sat outside. It was a lovely morning, and we all felt duly
+thrilled over our dramatic departure. The crowds were dense, and cars
+stacked with luggage like ours were shooting off in every direction.
+As on the previous day, the very air seemed charged with electricity,
+but when we were once in the country, all seemed peaceful and calm,
+and one asked one's self: "Why are we flying like this? What possible
+danger can there be?"
+
+There were just a few indications of the times--a troop of Lancers
+clattered past us, and a body of Uhlans leading peasants' horses with
+their labels attached. At Wannsee a car with the crown prince and
+princess flashed past. On the bridge over the Havel, overlooking
+Babelsburg, a tire burst, and we were delayed about half an hour. At
+Potsdam we made a halt at the telegraph office; but the news there was
+bad. No wires were being accepted for the "Ausland," and even local
+ones were not likely to get through.
+
+The first town of importance we arrived at was Brandenburg, which
+stands on the Havel. Storks were flapping round in the meadows, and
+the old stone statue in the main street stared down on us as we
+flashed past, as if to ask: "Why this haste? From what are you
+flying?" But we had but scant attention to give either to him or that
+town, or to Plaue or Genthin. The blue sky clouded over, and by the
+time the spires of Magdeburg appeared on the horizon, the rain was
+coming down steadily. We had our first halt outside the city, for two
+officials did not seem at all inclined to let us into the town where
+formerly I had spent such merry days. However, our demon chauffeur was
+able to produce papers certifying that he was returning to Berlin, and
+we were allowed to proceed. We stopped awhile to buy some sailcloth,
+as our trunks were getting woefully wet on the top of the car. Then
+off we set once more, in pouring rain and a tearing wind, through flat
+and uninteresting country. As there was nothing special to look at, I
+could just sit still and enjoy the strange exhilaration of that wild
+drive--the steady pulsation of the magnificent car, which like some
+mythological monster ate up the long straight road, indifferent to the
+shrieking opposing wind and lashing rain. On, on, till gradually the
+furies grew weary, the gray gave place to gold, and the earth wore the
+"washed" look of a beautiful water-colour. The road was grand, and so
+open that there was no danger. The small towns took on a character all
+their own of Old World charm, and Baedeker recorded the fact that
+they were full of interest, but this had to be taken on trust.
+Brunswick made its own special appeal, though we saw little but old
+houses and the handsome façade of St. Catherine's. Onward we raced
+till away in the distance we saw Hannover, like a many-masted ship
+with its high chimneys and myriad lights. We kept up the pace, and at
+9.15 pulled up in front of the Hotel Royal. I went in to know if the
+wire I had sent from Potsdam engaging rooms and a fresh automobile had
+arrived, but of course it had not. Then I returned to see about the
+dismounting of the luggage, and the girls stayed with me. A few people
+came to look on and became intensely interested. More joined, and we
+were soon the centre of a crowd. We imagined in time of war even a
+stray automobile must prove of account. We all laughed to find
+ourselves of such importance. Then up came a charming boy officer, who
+asked the chauffeur if he spoke German. "Ja wohl," was the laconic
+reply. "Are you German?" "Ja wohl."
+
+The certificates were produced, and the boy looked them over and
+handed them back pleasantly. "Have you seen enough?" I inquired,
+laughing. "Yes," he replied. "Excuse me;" and with a beautiful salute
+he disappeared in the crowd. But another officer had joined the girls.
+"Please come inside," he whispered, and when they were in the hall, he
+asked them if they were enemies, to their great amusement.
+
+I was so busy with the luggage that I did not notice their departure.
+The real truth had not yet dawned upon me. The trunks were hoisted off
+the car to the ground, and the gay decoration of the hotel labels
+attracted considerable attention. People thronged round, and
+deciphered the various names. I have never seen such curiosity.
+Finally the last suitcase was carried in. The landlord came forward,
+washing his hands with invisible soap. "Quite an experience for you. I
+apologize, but you see the crowd thought you were Russians." We all
+laughed. The mystery was solved. After all it was quite thrilling to
+be taken for Russians, and lent a flavour to the day.
+
+We had dinner, and then for a few minutes we stayed in the hall
+discussing plans. A little man in uniform came in brandishing a
+bulletin. "We have taken a Russian harbour," he cried excitedly. "The
+place is in flames." An involuntary shudder went through me. The
+Russians were England's allies. Was this the first letter of the awful
+alphabet Europe was to be called on to spell? Was this the first of
+the mighty German conquests?
+
+I looked up, remembering that I was in Germany. Two very blue eyes
+were fixed upon me. At the moment I wondered if any _arrière pensée_
+lay behind that intense look, but the little man seemed quite
+friendly, and then our party broke up and we were soon all sound
+asleep, forgetful of the fact that we were in a country at war with
+its neighbours.
+
+The following morning (August 3) we got up early, as a car from the
+Adler Garage had been ordered at 9.30, but it did not come. The
+employees of the hotel were cool in their behaviour. The concierge, of
+whom one usually expects servility, proved surly, the waiter calmly
+insolent. The delay seemed interminable, so Kitty and I sat down and
+wrote letters, but we found it was of no use to post them, as none
+were going out of the country; so we put them in our handbags. Then
+Lyra and I went off in a taxi to the garage to inquire for the car,
+and found it just ready. As the luggage was being stacked on, two
+American girls came to ask us how we were going to get out of the
+country. Lyra offered to take them with us, but they refused because
+they had not packed up!
+
+At last we were off once more--thankful to be moving, and for some
+time we were able to enjoy the pretty pastoral scenery, and the
+charming little houses with black timbering set in their red brick.
+Our new car was a poor substitute for the Benz,--which had returned to
+Berlin for war duty,--and our handsome boy had given place to a
+stolid son of the soil with one green and one blue eye, a kindly soul,
+who radiated confidence. Outside Schloss Lippe he stopped to shift one
+of the trunks. Up sauntered an official and asked for his papers,
+which he produced. Then once more we headed in the direction of
+Minden.
+
+"_Halt._" A cordon of soldiers with bayonets across the road put an
+end to all appreciation of scenery. The "Halt" was very decisive, as
+well it might be on such an occasion, and we were surrounded by
+boys--fair-haired, smiling boys, with whom we laughed and talked as
+much as our limited vocabularies permitted. The chauffeur's pass was
+produced, and proved satisfactory. If all "Halts" were going to be
+such friendly affairs, we felt we were in for a merry day. We waived
+adieus to our youthful soldiers, but within a few hundred yards came
+another "Halt," and then another, and another. The fifth time we
+realized hand-waving and friendly salutations were not going to get
+us very far. Our trunks were to be examined. Our friendly chauffeur
+pleaded for us, but he was squashed. "This is war time. Examination
+must be made and no risks taken."
+
+"Yes, but these are children. They only want to get out of the
+country."
+
+Now, when a woman has said good-by to the popular age of thirty-five,
+she thinks kindly of a man who includes her amongst the "children," so
+never shall I forget the chauffeur with bi-coloured eyes! The young
+man with normal vision would take no risks, and we soon all joined in
+the game. We pressed our keys upon the soldiers, and not only invited
+them to climb upon the top of the landaulette, but climbed up
+ourselves, and obeyed all behests. The first deadly thing to come to
+light in my trunk was a Canadian bark workbox. "Open it." The contents
+was critically examined. Then various perilous packets were found:
+Soap--Soap--and again, Soap!
+
+The sun was hot, and so were we, but the investigation went on very
+thoroughly. At last it was over, but we were told that we had to go
+to the Kontrol office--whatever that might be. A chinless juvenile got
+into the car with us as escort, but he was so weighed down with the
+sense of his own importance that he was not very interesting. At the
+Kontrol office we were all marched into a little room. It had a bed,
+and on a washstand was a basin filled with clean water. We were so
+dirty after unstrapping and strapping trunks that we asked if we might
+wash our hands. Two kindly soldiers ministered to us and got us clean
+towels, and listened sympathetically to the story of our examination.
+Then in came the adjutant, and no one could have been nicer or more
+courteous. We explained that we were trying to get to Holland, as we
+wished to sail to America, and that our one desire was to get out of
+Germany as quickly as we could. He smiled, and then he went away, and
+wrote out a little paper and signed it. It was to the effect that we
+had been examined, and that all was satisfactory. Never have three
+women been more grateful for a little piece of paper, and when we
+said good-by to our benefactor, our gratitude was very real.
+
+We were soon spinning along again, but ugly indications of warfare
+began to be visible. Outside Minden we saw quantities of cannon being
+mounted, and then suddenly we came upon a motor in a ditch. Children
+were playing round it, and a man was keeping guard under a tree. Our
+chauffeur stopped to find out what had happened. The car had belonged
+to a Russian. He had tried to escape when told to "Halt," and had been
+shot. Truly the grim game had begun in this peaceful-looking land.
+
+Time after time we were stopped by orders of soldiers, and we got
+almost used to the imperative "Halt." But we had nothing to fear with
+our magic _passe-partout_. A few words of parleying, and then came the
+usual concession: "You may go on further." No one would say exactly
+where "further" meant, but surely we should get to the frontier. We
+headed for Osnabrück, mistaking the road, however, at Lübeck, where
+the horses were being collected, and that delayed us for some time.
+The country now began to change in the magical way that countries do
+change when they begin to merge into neighbouring ones. We began to
+feel the Dutch element. Men, women, and children seemed to change,
+too, and to become more and more stolid. Boots gave way to sabots, and
+the little black and white cows began to wear the sacking jackets that
+they do in Holland.
+
+Before getting into Osnabrück we passed the railway station. The gates
+were closed, and we stood still while a long, long train steamed
+slowly by us--a train decorated with huge boughs of greenery--a train
+packed with men--husbands, lovers--going to God knows what fate. They
+were shouting and waving and cheering. That is now a week ago.
+
+It was about six o'clock when we pulled up outside the hotel at
+Osnabrück, so we had no time to waste over food. We had eaten nothing
+all day, but now we were able to buy some bread and cheese to eat _en
+route_. We were terribly dusty, and to save my own new coat, Kitty
+kindly lent me an old one of hers. It was bright rose-colour, and made
+me rather conspicuous as I took my turn on the little seat.
+
+The first important place after Osnabrück was Rheine, and there, for
+the first time in the day, I began to wonder how things were going to
+turn out. Before we knew where we were, we were stopped by soldiers
+and mobbed by a dense, excited crowd. Even the wonderful paper did not
+have its usual effect. I was told I must proceed to headquarters
+before we could continue our journey, so I got out of the car, but
+when I saw the rabble which intended to accompany me, I told the two
+soldiers who were my escort that I should prefer walking arm-in-arm
+with them, and off we set, greatly to our own amusement and that of
+the mob which followed at our heels, yelling, "Russian! Russian
+criminal!"
+
+When we reached the railway station I was taken before the superior
+arbiter of our fate. He was a serious individual, and read the
+precious document very carefully. Then came the usual fiat: "You may
+go further."
+
+Great disappointment of the following crowd--a disappointment
+communicated to the unpleasant loafers who had continued to surge
+round the automobile in my absence. One of them had climbed on to the
+back and hit Lyra's hat twice, but she had been very calm, and kept
+her temper. When our innocence was made known the excitement died
+down, and we departed amidst cheers and waving handkerchiefs.
+
+I shall never forget the next part of the drive. My appearance
+produced the same effect everywhere. "Russian! Russian!" was on every
+lip. One individual whispered to another, and small groups of people
+knotted together and watched us out of sight. At one place a man
+jumped on a bicycle and tore off--perhaps to give information. At
+first I did not mind, but after a while the situation got on my
+nerves. We swung past a man who was guarding a bridge. He wasn't a
+real soldier, but he had a gun, and I _know_ he feels that he lost one
+of the chances of his life in letting me go, for his look of suspicion
+and hatred was unmistakable. Lyra kindly changed places with me,
+though she was very tired, and it was a relief to get out of the
+popular gaze.
+
+The day was beginning to close in, but a brilliant sun shining through
+heavy gray clouds lit up the world for a while like a watchful eye. We
+knew we could not be very far from the frontier, and this was
+confirmed by an official when we were stopped for the seventeenth
+time. He was very friendly, and gave the chauffeur much well-meant
+advice. "The actual frontier is at 'Kleine Brucke,'" he said, "but as
+no motors may pass and it is getting late, the ladies had better stay
+the night at Gronau and go on to Holland to-morrow." This sounded all
+right, but we felt we wanted to get out of the country at all costs,
+and that a cowshed in Holland was preferable to a grand hotel in
+Germany. The magic pass had stood us in such good stead, there could
+be no hitch now we had so nearly achieved our aim.
+
+We were so engrossed with the vicinity of safety that not one of us
+realized our chauffeur had forgotten to light up. All I remember is
+that we seemed suddenly to swoop down on a crowd, the peremptory
+"Halt!" rang out sharp and clear, and we came to a sudden standstill.
+The car was besieged by officials of every kind, and we all felt the
+genuine hostility in the air. A man in plain clothes was chief
+spokesman. I handed him the Minden pass, confident of its efficacy,
+and to our dismay, he put it in his pocket.
+
+"We are only trying to get into Holland," I explained. "We have our
+tickets here for passage in the Rotterdam." "Show them." The tickets
+were produced and shared the same fate as the pass. "Get out of the
+auto. The luggage is to be examined." We meekly obeyed. There was no
+other course to pursue. Kitty clutched at her precious little vanity
+bag, which had afforded so much amusement during the tour. A ponderous
+policeman pounced upon it. "Please give me my little bag," wailed
+Kitty. "Let me open it and show you the contents."
+
+The man did not understand her words, but he did understand her
+gesture as she stretched out her hands for the precious bag. He pushed
+her back roughly. Did this dangerous woman think he was going to allow
+her to throw a bomb in this her moment of despair? He rushed off into
+the crowd, gave the infernal machine to some one else to hold, and we
+saw it no more.
+
+The luggage was all dismounted, and three wooden chairs were brought
+for us to sit on while the examination took place. That scene will
+always stand out in our minds with theatrical vividness. Flaring
+electric lights lit up the road. There was a dense crowd of officials
+and loafers, and beyond, blackness. One or two men came up and talked.
+
+"We want to get into Holland. We want to get there to-night." "You
+cannot. The frontier is closed." "But when can we go?" "When the war
+is over." "That is incredible." "It is not incredible. You must stop
+here. It is a nice place. If you wanted a large town, why did you not
+stop in Berlin?" "Because we want to leave Germany. No one knows where
+we are. Can we communicate with any one?" "All communication is
+impossible."
+
+This was cheerful news, but we had no time in which to think it over.
+Lyra's trunk had been opened, and the examination had begun. Several
+young women had arrived on the scene, who proved excellent English
+scholars and most accomplished searchers. It was an education to watch
+their methods. Every garment was taken out, shaken, weighed in the
+hand, and held up to the light, then flung down carelessly. Pretty
+chiffons and fluffy dresses lay about on the dusty road; but no one
+cared. It was a sorry performance, and an unworthy one. Letters and
+papers were pounced on and read, and it was a revelation to realize
+how the most innocent wires and cables could be construed into having
+some subtle political significance. Finally the last garment was
+removed, and the trunk itself subjected to severe critical
+examination.
+
+By this time it was very late, and the hearts of our captors melted a
+little. We were told we might proceed (under arrest, of course) to the
+hotel, and that the remainder of the luggage would be examined there
+privately.
+
+Once more we took our seats in the car, but the drive can hardly be
+described as a triumphal progress. Soldiers walked in front, and
+soldiers walked at the side, till we arrived at the Hotel of the
+Angel--of all ironical names! Six women, including the searchers,
+joined us, and were very pleasant and kindly while our hand luggage
+was being examined sufficiently for us to get out some things for the
+night. They had a beautiful time, reading all the letters that lay
+scattered about in our belongings, and taking the keenest interest in
+all our possessions. Poor souls! They certainly needed a little
+diversion. One girl had said good-by to her fiancé that morning, and
+another was a bride of twenty-four hours. She had married in haste to
+take the name of the man she loved before he went off to the frontier!
+
+We were allowed to choose our bedrooms, and Kitty and I elected to
+share one big one. Then we were told that we must be undressed and
+searched, so one by one we were taken off by two damsels, who were
+soon able to declare that we were not concealing anything criminal
+about us.
+
+The big man whose pockets had swallowed up our pass and tickets again
+appeared upon the scene, and proved to be the burgomaster of the town.
+He interviewed Lyra in one room--questioning and cross-questioning--and
+then he came to me. His suspicions seemed to be allaying, and his
+attitude was almost paternal. Although we had no passports, we were
+able to prove our identification very successfully--the girls by
+papers and letters, and I luckily had in my possession my permit to
+visit all the Italian galleries, with my photo pasted on to it. This
+proved me to be Conway Evans, living in Florence; but while the
+examination was going on, I wondered how long it would be before the
+question of my nationality would crop up.
+
+"Where is your husband?" "Florence, Italy." "Where do your father and
+mother live?" "Lausanne, Switzerland." "Where is your son?" "With my
+father and mother." "Where were you born?" "Georgetown, Demerara,
+South America."
+
+I have always loved my colonial birthplace and suffered gladly the
+epithet of "Mudhead," but I don't suppose I ever experienced the same
+relief from it as when I realized that the worthy burgomaster's
+geography did not locate it amongst the British possessions, and that
+he was willing to swallow me whole as an American if I could deny my
+Russian nationality!
+
+We were certainly very kindly treated. A supper of eggs and milk was
+prepared for us. While we were eating, the German girls sat with us
+and we got quite friendly. Bit by bit little things pieced themselves
+together like the pattern of a jig-saw puzzle. Our arrival at Gronau
+was no unforeseen event. We had been expected,--waited for,--and the
+fifteen men who had stood across the road to bar our progress had
+their fifteen guns ready to shoot if our stop had not been
+_instanter_. Information had been sent from Hannover that we were
+suspects. Who sent it we are never likely to know--the obsequious
+hotel proprietor, the owner of the blue eyes, the smiling boy officer,
+or the insolent waiter. No matter, we were suspects, and the worst
+conclusions were drawn when we arrived in a car without lights, and
+when I emerged into the flaring ring of light in a rose-red coat--a
+Russian colour, pregnant with criminality!! Had we realized our true
+position when that sudden halt was made, how frightened we should have
+been! As it was, it never occurred to us that we were in actual
+danger.
+
+At about one in the morning we went to bed, and dropped asleep from
+sheer fatigue. At about four Kitty and I woke up and discussed the
+situation dispassionately. We got out of our beds and looked out of
+the windows. Rain was falling in sheets, and the world seemed a cold,
+cheerless, uninviting place. The soldiers guarding us paced up and
+down, up and down, in the wet. Vitality is low at 4 a.m., and we were
+as dejected as any two mortals could be.
+
+Stay at Gronau--remain in this God-forsaken place till the European
+conflagration burnt itself out, cut off from every soul we cared about
+and unable to communicate--impossible! Having arrived at this logical
+conclusion, we returned to our beds and went to sleep. At eight
+o'clock the examiners returned to the charge. We went into a long room
+with a raised dais. There were long tables ranged down it, covered
+with stained cardboard mounts for beer-glasses. Cigar ashes were in
+saucers, cigar ends on the floor. The smell of stale beer permeated
+the atmosphere. It was an engaging _mise en scène_.
+
+Kitty and I were greeted by the head of police, two sergeants (one of
+them the bucolic hero of the vanity bag), and one of the girl
+searchers. The wearisome process began afresh. By the time the turn of
+my trunk came, the men were clearly bored. I had quantities of
+papers,--notes, MSS., sketches for lectures, extracts, charts,--papers
+which would have caused wild interest the evening before, but
+excitement was on the wane. By eleven o'clock everything had been seen
+thoroughly. The chief of police beamed upon us kindly. "It has to be
+done," he explained.
+
+Later the burgomaster reappeared, more paternal than ever, and most
+kindly disposed. He was really sorry for all we had gone through, and
+promised he would do all in his power to get us over the border, and
+he certainly kept his word. Out of his pockets came all our
+confiscated belongings, and from some safe hiding-place was produced
+the fatal vanity bag!
+
+At about one o'clock we went off again in the car, escorted by a now
+friendly policeman and one of the searchers. We were armed with a most
+reassuring pass, signed by the burgomaster himself, but when we
+arrived at the frontier and confidently handed it to the official
+there, he shook his head. "Impossible! Impossible!" he said. With a
+sudden rush our spirits sank to zero. This was the "most unkindest cut
+of all," but out of the darkness came light. We were at
+cross-purposes, and the man thought we wished to motor across the
+little bridge connecting Germany and Holland. We assured him we had no
+such desire, that I would take a trolley car to Einschede, charter a
+Dutch automobile to take us to Amsterdam, and return to the frontier
+to collect the girls and the luggage. Then came the hoped-for
+permission, and we all jumped out of the car. There was the little
+bridge--Kleine Brucke--and beyond Holland, the promised land. A few
+formalities, a few good-bys, a few planks traversed, and we were safe
+in a country that was neutral for the nonce: Holland, the
+stepping-stone to America.
+
+_S.S. Nieuw Amsterdam
+      A week later_
+
+
+
+***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK AN ACCOUNT OF OUR ARRESTING
+EXPERIENCES***
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+<meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=ISO-8859-1" />
+<title>The Project Gutenberg eBook of An Account of Our Arresting Experiences, by Conway Evans</title>
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+<body>
+<h1 class="pg">The Project Gutenberg eBook, An Account of Our Arresting Experiences, by
+Conway Evans</h1>
+<pre>
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at <a href = "http://www.gutenberg.org">www.gutenberg.org</a></pre>
+<p>Title: An Account of Our Arresting Experiences</p>
+<p>Author: Conway Evans</p>
+<p>Release Date: January 28, 2010  [eBook #31115]</p>
+<p>Language: English</p>
+<p>Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1</p>
+<p>***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK AN ACCOUNT OF OUR ARRESTING EXPERIENCES***</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<h4 class="pg">E-text prepared by Brown University Library<br />
+    and the Project Gutenberg Online Distributed Proofreading Team<br />
+    (<a href="http://www.pgdp.net/c/">http://www.pgdp.net</a>)<br />
+    from page images generously made available by<br />
+    Internet Archive/American Libraries<br />
+    (<a href="http://www.archive.org/details/americana">http://www.archive.org/details/americana</a>)</h4>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<table border="0" style="background-color: #ccccff;" cellpadding="10">
+  <tr>
+    <td valign="top">
+      Note:
+    </td>
+    <td>
+      Images of the original pages are available through
+      Internet Archive/American Libraries. See
+      <a href="http://www.archive.org/details/accountofourarre00evan">
+      http://www.archive.org/details/accountofourarre00evan</a>
+	</td>
+  </tr>
+</table>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<hr class="full" />
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+
+<div class="img">
+<a href="images/cover.jpg">
+<img border="0" src="images/cover.jpg" width="35%" alt="Book Cover" /></a>
+</div>
+
+<br />
+<hr />
+<br />
+
+<h1>AN ACCOUNT OF<br />
+OUR ARRESTING EXPERIENCES</h1>
+
+<br />
+
+<h4>BY</h4>
+<h3>CONWAY EVANS</h3>
+
+<br />
+
+<div class="img">
+<img border="0" src="images/deco.jpg" width="5%" alt="Publisher's Mark" />
+</div>
+
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+
+<h5>PRIVATELY PRINTED<br />
+1914</h5>
+
+<br />
+<hr />
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+
+
+<h4>[<i>One Hundred Copies printed</i>&nbsp;]<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<i>D. B. Updike, The Merrymount Press, Boston</i></h4>
+
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<hr />
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+
+<h4>TO MY TWO PLUCKY LITTLE<br />
+FELLOW PRISONERS</h4>
+
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<br />
+<hr />
+<br />
+
+<h3>AN ACCOUNT OF<br />
+OUR ARRESTING EXPERIENCES</h3>
+
+<br />
+<br />
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_1" id="Page_1">[1]</a></span>We had been travelling for many weeks,&mdash;Lyra Nickerson, Katherine
+Schermerhorn, and I,&mdash;and after a beautiful tour through Germany, we
+arrived at Berlin on the evening of July 29, 1914. We had planned to
+spend a few days there preparatory to embarking at Hamburg in the
+Viktoria Luise for a northern cruise, and were looking forward to a
+short stay in the splendid capital. When we had secured our rooms at
+the Hotel Adlon, we found to our dismay that Kitty's box had not come
+through from Dresden, our last stopping-place. I went downstairs and
+interviewed the porter. He explained that, owing to the talk of war,
+many people were leaving their summer quarters, so that traffic was
+considerably congested. In this wise did the little cloud appear upon
+our horizon.</p>
+
+<p>The following morning (Thursday) we went sightseeing, and in the
+afternoon&mdash;as Lyra was not feeling well&mdash;Kitty and I each went our own
+way. At five o'clock we met in the hall of the Adlon, where we had
+tea <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_2" id="Page_2">[2]</a></span>with her cousin, Mr. Gear, and his friend, Mr. Cluett. Later she
+and I went to a superb concert at the Frederichshain and heard
+Thornberg, the violinist.</p>
+
+<p>On Friday morning a little German friend whom I had not seen for many
+years came to visit me. I asked her if war were likely. She replied:
+"Certainly not. All danger is now over." This was encouraging, for I
+thought she knew what she was talking about.</p>
+
+<p>In the afternoon we hired an automobile, and motored out to Potsdam.
+Then when we were outside the old Palace we heard that the Kaiser's
+"strong-for-peace" policy had been of no avail, that the Czar had
+insulted his messenger, and that now war was inevitable. We ourselves,
+chameleon-like, assumed the German colour. We believed what we were
+told, and felt sorry for the man who was called upon unwillingly to
+shed his nation's blood. On our way back to the hotel Kitty and I went
+to see Mr. Schermerhorn's cousin, Miss Barber, and then we realized
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_3" id="Page_3">[3]</a></span>the immediate gravity of the situation. She told us that now war
+<i>must</i> come, and she also told us that the Viktoria Luise would not
+sail. With quickened pulses we drove back to the Adlon, where the
+lounge was crowded with buzzing, excited people. Then we dressed, and
+went to the "Admiral's Palast" to see the exquisite Ice Ballet. While
+we were admiring the skating, and sympathizing with the fascinating
+Pierrot whose heart was broken by the cruelty of the dainty jointed
+Doll, we were able to forget grim reality&mdash;to forget that the bonds
+that had held captive the great Fiend were being cut, and that he was
+yawning after his long sleep, and stretching his cramped limbs.</p>
+
+<p>The following morning Lyra realized the desirability of leaving Europe
+and of raising funds. She ordered the car, and we went to the office
+of the Holland American Line to try and secure the Imperial Suite, but
+without avail: no passages were to be had. Then we drove to five
+banks, and cashed a certain amount of her letter of credit at each
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_4" id="Page_4">[4]</a></span>one. At the Dresdener Bank she was informed that the Czar might
+capitulate even yet, and that in any case there would be three days of
+peace. Thereupon our spirits rose, and we began to make wild schemes.
+Even if Germany and Russia did go to war, why should we not tour in
+the Ardennes? Belgium would be a nice quiet neutral country to remain
+in, till we could secure passage to America.</p>
+
+<p>In the afternoon we drove out to Schmockwitz and spent a placid time
+on the Miggelsee, but when we returned to Berlin we found the Unter
+der Linden seething with dense crowds of excited people and the whole
+atmosphere charged with electricity. At dinner Mr. Gear came up to our
+table. "You had better get out of this as soon as you can," he said.
+"There is going to be trouble at once."</p>
+
+<p>Sunday morning Kitty was awakened very early by a stormy altercation
+in the room next to hers. She knocked on the wall, but no notice was
+taken of her remonstrance. After <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_5" id="Page_5">[5]</a></span>we had had breakfast, Lyra went
+downstairs and chartered an auto for 750 marks. The owner would not
+promise to take us farther than Hannover, owing to the difficulty of
+procuring petrol, and moreover both car and chauffeur were required in
+a couple of days for military duty. We consulted a large map, and
+decided to motor <i>via</i> Hannover to Osnabr&uuml;ck, and then go on to the
+frontier, wherever that might be.</p>
+
+<p>When I had finished packing I rang for the porter to strap my trunk,
+but he did not come. I continued ringing with much vigour, and finally
+the nice little housemaid appeared on the scene and a flood of
+volubility broke over me. The porter was busy. He could not come. All
+Russians in the hotel were being arrested as criminals, for Russians
+had fired on a frontier town and war was declared. The hotel had been
+full of detectives for several days, and one "criminal" had had the
+room next to our suite. This piece of information explained the noise
+in No. 140. The occupant had evidently rebelled at being <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_6" id="Page_6">[6]</a></span>arrested so
+early in the morning! When I passed his room his captors were waiting
+for him, and he was calmly finishing off his toilette. The big lounge
+of the hotel was like a hive of swarming bees, and poor Mr. Louis
+Adlon looked simply worn out with worry; but he was so kind and
+courteous! I shall never forget all the trouble he took for us.</p>
+
+<p>We got off at about 12.30 in a magnificent Benz, driven by one of the
+best-looking boys imaginable. The hand luggage was piled inside the
+car, so I sat outside. It was a lovely morning, and we all felt duly
+thrilled over our dramatic departure. The crowds were dense, and cars
+stacked with luggage like ours were shooting off in every direction.
+As on the previous day, the very air seemed charged with electricity,
+but when we were once in the country, all seemed peaceful and calm,
+and one asked one's self: "Why are we flying like this? What possible
+danger can there be?"</p>
+
+<p>There were just a few indications of the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_7" id="Page_7">[7]</a></span>times&mdash;a troop of Lancers
+clattered past us, and a body of Uhlans leading peasants' horses with
+their labels attached. At Wannsee a car with the crown prince and
+princess flashed past. On the bridge over the Havel, overlooking
+Babelsburg, a tire burst, and we were delayed about half an hour. At
+Potsdam we made a halt at the telegraph office; but the news there was
+bad. No wires were being accepted for the "Ausland," and even local
+ones were not likely to get through.</p>
+
+<p>The first town of importance we arrived at was Brandenburg, which
+stands on the Havel. Storks were flapping round in the meadows, and
+the old stone statue in the main street stared down on us as we
+flashed past, as if to ask: "Why this haste? From what are you
+flying?" But we had but scant attention to give either to him or that
+town, or to Plaue or Genthin. The blue sky clouded over, and by the
+time the spires of Magdeburg appeared on the horizon, the rain was
+coming down steadily. We had our first halt <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_8" id="Page_8">[8]</a></span>outside the city, for two
+officials did not seem at all inclined to let us into the town where
+formerly I had spent such merry days. However, our demon chauffeur was
+able to produce papers certifying that he was returning to Berlin, and
+we were allowed to proceed. We stopped awhile to buy some sailcloth,
+as our trunks were getting woefully wet on the top of the car. Then
+off we set once more, in pouring rain and a tearing wind, through flat
+and uninteresting country. As there was nothing special to look at, I
+could just sit still and enjoy the strange exhilaration of that wild
+drive&mdash;the steady pulsation of the magnificent car, which like some
+mythological monster ate up the long straight road, indifferent to the
+shrieking opposing wind and lashing rain. On, on, till gradually the
+furies grew weary, the gray gave place to gold, and the earth wore the
+"washed" look of a beautiful water-colour. The road was grand, and so
+open that there was no danger. The small towns took on a character all
+their own of Old World charm, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_9" id="Page_9">[9]</a></span>and Baedeker recorded the fact that
+they were full of interest, but this had to be taken on trust.
+Brunswick made its own special appeal, though we saw little but old
+houses and the handsome fa&ccedil;ade of St. Catherine's. Onward we raced
+till away in the distance we saw Hannover, like a many-masted ship
+with its high chimneys and myriad lights. We kept up the pace, and at
+9.15 pulled up in front of the Hotel Royal. I went in to know if the
+wire I had sent from Potsdam engaging rooms and a fresh automobile had
+arrived, but of course it had not. Then I returned to see about the
+dismounting of the luggage, and the girls stayed with me. A few people
+came to look on and became intensely interested. More joined, and we
+were soon the centre of a crowd. We imagined in time of war even a
+stray automobile must prove of account. We all laughed to find
+ourselves of such importance. Then up came a charming boy officer, who
+asked the chauffeur if he spoke German. "Ja wohl," was the laconic
+reply. "Are you German?" "Ja wohl."</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_10" id="Page_10">[10]</a></span>The certificates were produced, and the boy looked them over and
+handed them back pleasantly. "Have you seen enough?" I inquired,
+laughing. "Yes," he replied. "Excuse me;" and with a beautiful salute
+he disappeared in the crowd. But another officer had joined the girls.
+"Please come inside," he whispered, and when they were in the hall, he
+asked them if they were enemies, to their great amusement.</p>
+
+<p>I was so busy with the luggage that I did not notice their departure.
+The real truth had not yet dawned upon me. The trunks were hoisted off
+the car to the ground, and the gay decoration of the hotel labels
+attracted considerable attention. People thronged round, and
+deciphered the various names. I have never seen such curiosity.
+Finally the last suitcase was carried in. The landlord came forward,
+washing his hands with invisible soap. "Quite an experience for you. I
+apologize, but you see the crowd thought you were Russians." We all
+laughed. The mystery was solved. After all it was quite <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_11" id="Page_11">[11]</a></span>thrilling to
+be taken for Russians, and lent a flavour to the day.</p>
+
+<p>We had dinner, and then for a few minutes we stayed in the hall
+discussing plans. A little man in uniform came in brandishing a
+bulletin. "We have taken a Russian harbour," he cried excitedly. "The
+place is in flames." An involuntary shudder went through me. The
+Russians were England's allies. Was this the first letter of the awful
+alphabet Europe was to be called on to spell? Was this the first of
+the mighty German conquests?</p>
+
+<p>I looked up, remembering that I was in Germany. Two very blue eyes
+were fixed upon me. At the moment I wondered if any <i>arri&egrave;re pens&eacute;e</i>
+lay behind that intense look, but the little man seemed quite
+friendly, and then our party broke up and we were soon all sound
+asleep, forgetful of the fact that we were in a country at war with
+its neighbours.</p>
+
+<p>The following morning (August 3) we got up early, as a car from the
+Adler <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_12" id="Page_12">[12]</a></span>Garage had been ordered at 9.30, but it did not come. The
+employees of the hotel were cool in their behaviour. The concierge, of
+whom one usually expects servility, proved surly, the waiter calmly
+insolent. The delay seemed interminable, so Kitty and I sat down and
+wrote letters, but we found it was of no use to post them, as none
+were going out of the country; so we put them in our handbags. Then
+Lyra and I went off in a taxi to the garage to inquire for the car,
+and found it just ready. As the luggage was being stacked on, two
+American girls came to ask us how we were going to get out of the
+country. Lyra offered to take them with us, but they refused because
+they had not packed up!</p>
+
+<p>At last we were off once more&mdash;thankful to be moving, and for some
+time we were able to enjoy the pretty pastoral scenery, and the
+charming little houses with black timbering set in their red brick.
+Our new car was a poor substitute for the Benz,&mdash;which had returned to
+Berlin for war duty,&mdash;and our <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_13" id="Page_13">[13]</a></span>handsome boy had given place to a
+stolid son of the soil with one green and one blue eye, a kindly soul,
+who radiated confidence. Outside Schloss Lippe he stopped to shift one
+of the trunks. Up sauntered an official and asked for his papers,
+which he produced. Then once more we headed in the direction of
+Minden.</p>
+
+<p>"<i>Halt.</i>" A cordon of soldiers with bayonets across the road put an
+end to all appreciation of scenery. The "Halt" was very decisive, as
+well it might be on such an occasion, and we were surrounded by
+boys&mdash;fair-haired, smiling boys, with whom we laughed and talked as
+much as our limited vocabularies permitted. The chauffeur's pass was
+produced, and proved satisfactory. If all "Halts" were going to be
+such friendly affairs, we felt we were in for a merry day. We waived
+adieus to our youthful soldiers, but within a few hundred yards came
+another "Halt," and then another, and another. The fifth time we
+realized hand-waving and friendly salutations were not going to get
+us <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_14" id="Page_14">[14]</a></span>very far. Our trunks were to be examined. Our friendly chauffeur
+pleaded for us, but he was squashed. "This is war time. Examination
+must be made and no risks taken."</p>
+
+<p>"Yes, but these are children. They only want to get out of the
+country."</p>
+
+<p>Now, when a woman has said good-by to the popular age of thirty-five,
+she thinks kindly of a man who includes her amongst the "children," so
+never shall I forget the chauffeur with bi-coloured eyes! The young
+man with normal vision would take no risks, and we soon all joined in
+the game. We pressed our keys upon the soldiers, and not only invited
+them to climb upon the top of the landaulette, but climbed up
+ourselves, and obeyed all behests. The first deadly thing to come to
+light in my trunk was a Canadian bark workbox. "Open it." The contents
+was critically examined. Then various perilous packets were found:
+Soap&mdash;Soap&mdash;and again, Soap!</p>
+
+<p>The sun was hot, and so were we, but the investigation went on very
+thoroughly. <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_15" id="Page_15">[15]</a></span>At last it was over, but we were told that we had to go
+to the Kontrol office&mdash;whatever that might be. A chinless juvenile got
+into the car with us as escort, but he was so weighed down with the
+sense of his own importance that he was not very interesting. At the
+Kontrol office we were all marched into a little room. It had a bed,
+and on a washstand was a basin filled with clean water. We were so
+dirty after unstrapping and strapping trunks that we asked if we might
+wash our hands. Two kindly soldiers ministered to us and got us clean
+towels, and listened sympathetically to the story of our examination.
+Then in came the adjutant, and no one could have been nicer or more
+courteous. We explained that we were trying to get to Holland, as we
+wished to sail to America, and that our one desire was to get out of
+Germany as quickly as we could. He smiled, and then he went away, and
+wrote out a little paper and signed it. It was to the effect that we
+had been examined, and that all was satisfactory. Never have three
+women been more <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_16" id="Page_16">[16]</a></span>grateful for a little piece of paper, and when we
+said good-by to our benefactor, our gratitude was very real.</p>
+
+<p>We were soon spinning along again, but ugly indications of warfare
+began to be visible. Outside Minden we saw quantities of cannon being
+mounted, and then suddenly we came upon a motor in a ditch. Children
+were playing round it, and a man was keeping guard under a tree. Our
+chauffeur stopped to find out what had happened. The car had belonged
+to a Russian. He had tried to escape when told to "Halt," and had been
+shot. Truly the grim game had begun in this peaceful-looking land.</p>
+
+<p>Time after time we were stopped by orders of soldiers, and we got
+almost used to the imperative "Halt." But we had nothing to fear with
+our magic <i>passe-partout</i>. A few words of parleying, and then came the
+usual concession: "You may go on further." No one would say exactly
+where "further" meant, but surely we should get to the frontier. We
+headed for Osnabr&uuml;ck, mistaking <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_17" id="Page_17">[17]</a></span>the road, however, at L&uuml;beck, where
+the horses were being collected, and that delayed us for some time.
+The country now began to change in the magical way that countries do
+change when they begin to merge into neighbouring ones. We began to
+feel the Dutch element. Men, women, and children seemed to change,
+too, and to become more and more stolid. Boots gave way to sabots, and
+the little black and white cows began to wear the sacking jackets that
+they do in Holland.</p>
+
+<p>Before getting into Osnabr&uuml;ck we passed the railway station. The gates
+were closed, and we stood still while a long, long train steamed
+slowly by us&mdash;a train decorated with huge boughs of greenery&mdash;a train
+packed with men&mdash;husbands, lovers&mdash;going to God knows what fate. They
+were shouting and waving and cheering. That is now a week ago.</p>
+
+<p>It was about six o'clock when we pulled up outside the hotel at
+Osnabr&uuml;ck, so we had no time to waste over food. We had eaten <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_18" id="Page_18">[18]</a></span>nothing
+all day, but now we were able to buy some bread and cheese to eat <i>en
+route</i>. We were terribly dusty, and to save my own new coat, Kitty
+kindly lent me an old one of hers. It was bright rose-colour, and made
+me rather conspicuous as I took my turn on the little seat.</p>
+
+<p>The first important place after Osnabr&uuml;ck was Rheine, and there, for
+the first time in the day, I began to wonder how things were going to
+turn out. Before we knew where we were, we were stopped by soldiers
+and mobbed by a dense, excited crowd. Even the wonderful paper did not
+have its usual effect. I was told I must proceed to headquarters
+before we could continue our journey, so I got out of the car, but
+when I saw the rabble which intended to accompany me, I told the two
+soldiers who were my escort that I should prefer walking arm-in-arm
+with them, and off we set, greatly to our own amusement and that of
+the mob which followed at our heels, yelling, "Russian! Russian
+criminal!"</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_19" id="Page_19">[19]</a></span>When we reached the railway station I was taken before the superior
+arbiter of our fate. He was a serious individual, and read the
+precious document very carefully. Then came the usual fiat: "You may
+go further."</p>
+
+<p>Great disappointment of the following crowd&mdash;a disappointment
+communicated to the unpleasant loafers who had continued to surge
+round the automobile in my absence. One of them had climbed on to the
+back and hit Lyra's hat twice, but she had been very calm, and kept
+her temper. When our innocence was made known the excitement died
+down, and we departed amidst cheers and waving handkerchiefs.</p>
+
+<p>I shall never forget the next part of the drive. My appearance
+produced the same effect everywhere. "Russian! Russian!" was on every
+lip. One individual whispered to another, and small groups of people
+knotted together and watched us out of sight. At one place a man
+jumped on a bicycle and tore off&mdash;perhaps to give information. At
+first I did not mind, but after a while the <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_20" id="Page_20">[20]</a></span>situation got on my
+nerves. We swung past a man who was guarding a bridge. He wasn't a
+real soldier, but he had a gun, and I <i>know</i> he feels that he lost one
+of the chances of his life in letting me go, for his look of suspicion
+and hatred was unmistakable. Lyra kindly changed places with me,
+though she was very tired, and it was a relief to get out of the
+popular gaze.</p>
+
+<p>The day was beginning to close in, but a brilliant sun shining through
+heavy gray clouds lit up the world for a while like a watchful eye. We
+knew we could not be very far from the frontier, and this was
+confirmed by an official when we were stopped for the seventeenth
+time. He was very friendly, and gave the chauffeur much well-meant
+advice. "The actual frontier is at 'Kleine Brucke,'" he said, "but as
+no motors may pass and it is getting late, the ladies had better stay
+the night at Gronau and go on to Holland to-morrow." This sounded all
+right, but we felt we wanted to get out of the country at all costs,
+and that a cowshed in Holland was <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_21" id="Page_21">[21]</a></span>preferable to a grand hotel in
+Germany. The magic pass had stood us in such good stead, there could
+be no hitch now we had so nearly achieved our aim.</p>
+
+<p>We were so engrossed with the vicinity of safety that not one of us
+realized our chauffeur had forgotten to light up. All I remember is
+that we seemed suddenly to swoop down on a crowd, the peremptory
+"Halt!" rang out sharp and clear, and we came to a sudden standstill.
+The car was besieged by officials of every kind, and we all felt the
+genuine hostility in the air. A man in plain clothes was chief
+spokesman. I handed him the Minden pass, confident of its efficacy,
+and to our dismay, he put it in his pocket.</p>
+
+<p>"We are only trying to get into Holland," I explained. "We have our
+tickets here for passage in the Rotterdam." "Show them." The tickets
+were produced and shared the same fate as the pass. "Get out of the
+auto. The luggage is to be examined." We meekly obeyed. There was no
+other course to pursue. Kitty clutched at her <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_22" id="Page_22">[22]</a></span>precious little vanity
+bag, which had afforded so much amusement during the tour. A ponderous
+policeman pounced upon it. "Please give me my little bag," wailed
+Kitty. "Let me open it and show you the contents."</p>
+
+<p>The man did not understand her words, but he did understand her
+gesture as she stretched out her hands for the precious bag. He pushed
+her back roughly. Did this dangerous woman think he was going to allow
+her to throw a bomb in this her moment of despair? He rushed off into
+the crowd, gave the infernal machine to some one else to hold, and we
+saw it no more.</p>
+
+<p>The luggage was all dismounted, and three wooden chairs were brought
+for us to sit on while the examination took place. That scene will
+always stand out in our minds with theatrical vividness. Flaring
+electric lights lit up the road. There was a dense crowd of officials
+and loafers, and beyond, blackness. One or two men came up and talked.</p>
+
+<p>"We want to get into Holland. We want to get there to-night." "You
+cannot. The <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_23" id="Page_23">[23]</a></span>frontier is closed." "But when can we go?" "When the war
+is over." "That is incredible." "It is not incredible. You must stop
+here. It is a nice place. If you wanted a large town, why did you not
+stop in Berlin?" "Because we want to leave Germany. No one knows where
+we are. Can we communicate with any one?" "All communication is
+impossible."</p>
+
+<p>This was cheerful news, but we had no time in which to think it over.
+Lyra's trunk had been opened, and the examination had begun. Several
+young women had arrived on the scene, who proved excellent English
+scholars and most accomplished searchers. It was an education to watch
+their methods. Every garment was taken out, shaken, weighed in the
+hand, and held up to the light, then flung down carelessly. Pretty
+chiffons and fluffy dresses lay about on the dusty road; but no one
+cared. It was a sorry performance, and an unworthy one. Letters and
+papers were pounced on and read, and it was a revelation to realize
+how the most <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_24" id="Page_24">[24]</a></span>innocent wires and cables could be construed into having
+some subtle political significance. Finally the last garment was
+removed, and the trunk itself subjected to severe critical
+examination.</p>
+
+<p>By this time it was very late, and the hearts of our captors melted a
+little. We were told we might proceed (under arrest, of course) to the
+hotel, and that the remainder of the luggage would be examined there
+privately.</p>
+
+<p>Once more we took our seats in the car, but the drive can hardly be
+described as a triumphal progress. Soldiers walked in front, and
+soldiers walked at the side, till we arrived at the Hotel of the
+Angel&mdash;of all ironical names! Six women, including the searchers,
+joined us, and were very pleasant and kindly while our hand luggage
+was being examined sufficiently for us to get out some things for the
+night. They had a beautiful time, reading all the letters that lay
+scattered about in our belongings, and taking the keenest interest in
+all our <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_25" id="Page_25">[25]</a></span>possessions. Poor souls! They certainly needed a little
+diversion. One girl had said good-by to her fianc&eacute; that morning, and
+another was a bride of twenty-four hours. She had married in haste to
+take the name of the man she loved before he went off to the frontier!</p>
+
+<p>We were allowed to choose our bedrooms, and Kitty and I elected to
+share one big one. Then we were told that we must be undressed and
+searched, so one by one we were taken off by two damsels, who were
+soon able to declare that we were not concealing anything criminal
+about us.</p>
+
+<p>The big man whose pockets had swallowed up our pass and tickets again
+appeared upon the scene, and proved to be the burgomaster of the town.
+He interviewed Lyra in one room&mdash;questioning and cross-questioning&mdash;and
+then he came to me. His suspicions seemed to be allaying, and his
+attitude was almost paternal. Although we had no passports, we were
+able to prove our identification very successfully&mdash;the girls by
+<span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_26" id="Page_26">[26]</a></span>papers and letters, and I luckily had in my possession my permit to
+visit all the Italian galleries, with my photo pasted on to it. This
+proved me to be Conway Evans, living in Florence; but while the
+examination was going on, I wondered how long it would be before the
+question of my nationality would crop up.</p>
+
+<p>"Where is your husband?" "Florence, Italy." "Where do your father and
+mother live?" "Lausanne, Switzerland." "Where is your son?" "With my
+father and mother." "Where were you born?" "Georgetown, Demerara,
+South America."</p>
+
+<p>I have always loved my colonial birthplace and suffered gladly the
+epithet of "Mudhead," but I don't suppose I ever experienced the same
+relief from it as when I realized that the worthy burgomaster's
+geography did not locate it amongst the British possessions, and that
+he was willing to swallow me whole as an American if I could deny my
+Russian nationality!</p>
+
+<p><span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_27" id="Page_27">[27]</a></span>We were certainly very kindly treated. A supper of eggs and milk was
+prepared for us. While we were eating, the German girls sat with us
+and we got quite friendly. Bit by bit little things pieced themselves
+together like the pattern of a jig-saw puzzle. Our arrival at Gronau
+was no unforeseen event. We had been expected,&mdash;waited for,&mdash;and the
+fifteen men who had stood across the road to bar our progress had
+their fifteen guns ready to shoot if our stop had not been
+<i>instanter</i>. Information had been sent from Hannover that we were
+suspects. Who sent it we are never likely to know&mdash;the obsequious
+hotel proprietor, the owner of the blue eyes, the smiling boy officer,
+or the insolent waiter. No matter, we were suspects, and the worst
+conclusions were drawn when we arrived in a car without lights, and
+when I emerged into the flaring ring of light in a rose-red coat&mdash;a
+Russian colour, pregnant with criminality!! Had we realized our true
+position when that sudden halt was made, how frightened we should have
+been! As it <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_28" id="Page_28">[28]</a></span>was, it never occurred to us that we were in actual
+danger.</p>
+
+<p>At about one in the morning we went to bed, and dropped asleep from
+sheer fatigue. At about four Kitty and I woke up and discussed the
+situation dispassionately. We got out of our beds and looked out of
+the windows. Rain was falling in sheets, and the world seemed a cold,
+cheerless, uninviting place. The soldiers guarding us paced up and
+down, up and down, in the wet. Vitality is low at 4 a.m., and we were
+as dejected as any two mortals could be.</p>
+
+<p>Stay at Gronau&mdash;remain in this God-forsaken place till the European
+conflagration burnt itself out, cut off from every soul we cared about
+and unable to communicate&mdash;impossible! Having arrived at this logical
+conclusion, we returned to our beds and went to sleep. At eight
+o'clock the examiners returned to the charge. We went into a long room
+with a raised dais. There were long tables ranged down it, covered
+with stained cardboard mounts for beer-glasses. Cigar <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_29" id="Page_29">[29]</a></span>ashes were in
+saucers, cigar ends on the floor. The smell of stale beer permeated
+the atmosphere. It was an engaging <i>mise en sc&egrave;ne</i>.</p>
+
+<p>Kitty and I were greeted by the head of police, two sergeants (one of
+them the bucolic hero of the vanity bag), and one of the girl
+searchers. The wearisome process began afresh. By the time the turn of
+my trunk came, the men were clearly bored. I had quantities of
+papers,&mdash;notes, MSS., sketches for lectures, extracts, charts,&mdash;papers
+which would have caused wild interest the evening before, but
+excitement was on the wane. By eleven o'clock everything had been seen
+thoroughly. The chief of police beamed upon us kindly. "It has to be
+done," he explained.</p>
+
+<p>Later the burgomaster reappeared, more paternal than ever, and most
+kindly disposed. He was really sorry for all we had gone through, and
+promised he would do all in his power to get us over the border, and
+he certainly kept his word. Out of his pockets came all our
+confiscated belongings, and from <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_30" id="Page_30">[30]</a></span>some safe hiding-place was produced
+the fatal vanity bag!</p>
+
+<p>At about one o'clock we went off again in the car, escorted by a now
+friendly policeman and one of the searchers. We were armed with a most
+reassuring pass, signed by the burgomaster himself, but when we
+arrived at the frontier and confidently handed it to the official
+there, he shook his head. "Impossible! Impossible!" he said. With a
+sudden rush our spirits sank to zero. This was the "most unkindest cut
+of all," but out of the darkness came light. We were at
+cross-purposes, and the man thought we wished to motor across the
+little bridge connecting Germany and Holland. We assured him we had no
+such desire, that I would take a trolley car to Einschede, charter a
+Dutch automobile to take us to Amsterdam, and return to the frontier
+to collect the girls and the luggage. Then came the hoped-for
+permission, and we all jumped out of the car. There was the little
+bridge&mdash;Kleine Brucke&mdash;and beyond Holland, the promised land. A few
+formalities, <span class='pagenum'><a name="Page_31" id="Page_31">[31]</a></span>a few good-bys, a few planks traversed, and we were safe
+in a country that was neutral for the nonce: Holland, the
+stepping-stone to America.</p>
+
+<br />
+
+<p><i>S.S. Nieuw Amsterdam</i><br />
+<span style="margin-left: 3em;"><i>A week later</i></span><br />
+</p>
+
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<p>&nbsp;</p>
+<hr class="full" />
+<p>***END OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK AN ACCOUNT OF OUR ARRESTING EXPERIENCES***</p>
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+The Project Gutenberg eBook, An Account of Our Arresting Experiences, by
+Conway Evans
+
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
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+
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+
+
+
+Title: An Account of Our Arresting Experiences
+
+
+Author: Conway Evans
+
+
+
+Release Date: January 28, 2010  [eBook #31115]
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+Language: English
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+***START OF THE PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK AN ACCOUNT OF OUR ARRESTING
+EXPERIENCES***
+
+
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+
+
+
+AN ACCOUNT OF OUR ARRESTING EXPERIENCES
+
+by
+
+CONWAY EVANS
+
+[Illustration]
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+Privately Printed
+1914
+
+[One Hundred Copies printed]
+
+D. B. Updike, The Merrymount Press, Boston
+
+
+
+
+TO MY TWO PLUCKY LITTLE
+FELLOW PRISONERS
+
+
+
+
+AN ACCOUNT OF
+OUR ARRESTING EXPERIENCES
+
+
+We had been travelling for many weeks,--Lyra Nickerson, Katherine
+Schermerhorn, and I,--and after a beautiful tour through Germany, we
+arrived at Berlin on the evening of July 29, 1914. We had planned to
+spend a few days there preparatory to embarking at Hamburg in the
+Viktoria Luise for a northern cruise, and were looking forward to a
+short stay in the splendid capital. When we had secured our rooms at
+the Hotel Adlon, we found to our dismay that Kitty's box had not come
+through from Dresden, our last stopping-place. I went downstairs and
+interviewed the porter. He explained that, owing to the talk of war,
+many people were leaving their summer quarters, so that traffic was
+considerably congested. In this wise did the little cloud appear upon
+our horizon.
+
+The following morning (Thursday) we went sightseeing, and in the
+afternoon--as Lyra was not feeling well--Kitty and I each went our own
+way. At five o'clock we met in the hall of the Adlon, where we had
+tea with her cousin, Mr. Gear, and his friend, Mr. Cluett. Later she
+and I went to a superb concert at the Frederichshain and heard
+Thornberg, the violinist.
+
+On Friday morning a little German friend whom I had not seen for many
+years came to visit me. I asked her if war were likely. She replied:
+"Certainly not. All danger is now over." This was encouraging, for I
+thought she knew what she was talking about.
+
+In the afternoon we hired an automobile, and motored out to Potsdam.
+Then when we were outside the old Palace we heard that the Kaiser's
+"strong-for-peace" policy had been of no avail, that the Czar had
+insulted his messenger, and that now war was inevitable. We ourselves,
+chameleon-like, assumed the German colour. We believed what we were
+told, and felt sorry for the man who was called upon unwillingly to
+shed his nation's blood. On our way back to the hotel Kitty and I went
+to see Mr. Schermerhorn's cousin, Miss Barber, and then we realized
+the immediate gravity of the situation. She told us that now war
+_must_ come, and she also told us that the Viktoria Luise would not
+sail. With quickened pulses we drove back to the Adlon, where the
+lounge was crowded with buzzing, excited people. Then we dressed, and
+went to the "Admiral's Palast" to see the exquisite Ice Ballet. While
+we were admiring the skating, and sympathizing with the fascinating
+Pierrot whose heart was broken by the cruelty of the dainty jointed
+Doll, we were able to forget grim reality--to forget that the bonds
+that had held captive the great Fiend were being cut, and that he was
+yawning after his long sleep, and stretching his cramped limbs.
+
+The following morning Lyra realized the desirability of leaving Europe
+and of raising funds. She ordered the car, and we went to the office
+of the Holland American Line to try and secure the Imperial Suite, but
+without avail: no passages were to be had. Then we drove to five
+banks, and cashed a certain amount of her letter of credit at each
+one. At the Dresdener Bank she was informed that the Czar might
+capitulate even yet, and that in any case there would be three days of
+peace. Thereupon our spirits rose, and we began to make wild schemes.
+Even if Germany and Russia did go to war, why should we not tour in
+the Ardennes? Belgium would be a nice quiet neutral country to remain
+in, till we could secure passage to America.
+
+In the afternoon we drove out to Schmockwitz and spent a placid time
+on the Miggelsee, but when we returned to Berlin we found the Unter
+der Linden seething with dense crowds of excited people and the whole
+atmosphere charged with electricity. At dinner Mr. Gear came up to our
+table. "You had better get out of this as soon as you can," he said.
+"There is going to be trouble at once."
+
+Sunday morning Kitty was awakened very early by a stormy altercation
+in the room next to hers. She knocked on the wall, but no notice was
+taken of her remonstrance. After we had had breakfast, Lyra went
+downstairs and chartered an auto for 750 marks. The owner would not
+promise to take us farther than Hannover, owing to the difficulty of
+procuring petrol, and moreover both car and chauffeur were required in
+a couple of days for military duty. We consulted a large map, and
+decided to motor _via_ Hannover to Osnabrueck, and then go on to the
+frontier, wherever that might be.
+
+When I had finished packing I rang for the porter to strap my trunk,
+but he did not come. I continued ringing with much vigour, and finally
+the nice little housemaid appeared on the scene and a flood of
+volubility broke over me. The porter was busy. He could not come. All
+Russians in the hotel were being arrested as criminals, for Russians
+had fired on a frontier town and war was declared. The hotel had been
+full of detectives for several days, and one "criminal" had had the
+room next to our suite. This piece of information explained the noise
+in No. 140. The occupant had evidently rebelled at being arrested so
+early in the morning! When I passed his room his captors were waiting
+for him, and he was calmly finishing off his toilette. The big lounge
+of the hotel was like a hive of swarming bees, and poor Mr. Louis
+Adlon looked simply worn out with worry; but he was so kind and
+courteous! I shall never forget all the trouble he took for us.
+
+We got off at about 12.30 in a magnificent Benz, driven by one of the
+best-looking boys imaginable. The hand luggage was piled inside the
+car, so I sat outside. It was a lovely morning, and we all felt duly
+thrilled over our dramatic departure. The crowds were dense, and cars
+stacked with luggage like ours were shooting off in every direction.
+As on the previous day, the very air seemed charged with electricity,
+but when we were once in the country, all seemed peaceful and calm,
+and one asked one's self: "Why are we flying like this? What possible
+danger can there be?"
+
+There were just a few indications of the times--a troop of Lancers
+clattered past us, and a body of Uhlans leading peasants' horses with
+their labels attached. At Wannsee a car with the crown prince and
+princess flashed past. On the bridge over the Havel, overlooking
+Babelsburg, a tire burst, and we were delayed about half an hour. At
+Potsdam we made a halt at the telegraph office; but the news there was
+bad. No wires were being accepted for the "Ausland," and even local
+ones were not likely to get through.
+
+The first town of importance we arrived at was Brandenburg, which
+stands on the Havel. Storks were flapping round in the meadows, and
+the old stone statue in the main street stared down on us as we
+flashed past, as if to ask: "Why this haste? From what are you
+flying?" But we had but scant attention to give either to him or that
+town, or to Plaue or Genthin. The blue sky clouded over, and by the
+time the spires of Magdeburg appeared on the horizon, the rain was
+coming down steadily. We had our first halt outside the city, for two
+officials did not seem at all inclined to let us into the town where
+formerly I had spent such merry days. However, our demon chauffeur was
+able to produce papers certifying that he was returning to Berlin, and
+we were allowed to proceed. We stopped awhile to buy some sailcloth,
+as our trunks were getting woefully wet on the top of the car. Then
+off we set once more, in pouring rain and a tearing wind, through flat
+and uninteresting country. As there was nothing special to look at, I
+could just sit still and enjoy the strange exhilaration of that wild
+drive--the steady pulsation of the magnificent car, which like some
+mythological monster ate up the long straight road, indifferent to the
+shrieking opposing wind and lashing rain. On, on, till gradually the
+furies grew weary, the gray gave place to gold, and the earth wore the
+"washed" look of a beautiful water-colour. The road was grand, and so
+open that there was no danger. The small towns took on a character all
+their own of Old World charm, and Baedeker recorded the fact that
+they were full of interest, but this had to be taken on trust.
+Brunswick made its own special appeal, though we saw little but old
+houses and the handsome facade of St. Catherine's. Onward we raced
+till away in the distance we saw Hannover, like a many-masted ship
+with its high chimneys and myriad lights. We kept up the pace, and at
+9.15 pulled up in front of the Hotel Royal. I went in to know if the
+wire I had sent from Potsdam engaging rooms and a fresh automobile had
+arrived, but of course it had not. Then I returned to see about the
+dismounting of the luggage, and the girls stayed with me. A few people
+came to look on and became intensely interested. More joined, and we
+were soon the centre of a crowd. We imagined in time of war even a
+stray automobile must prove of account. We all laughed to find
+ourselves of such importance. Then up came a charming boy officer, who
+asked the chauffeur if he spoke German. "Ja wohl," was the laconic
+reply. "Are you German?" "Ja wohl."
+
+The certificates were produced, and the boy looked them over and
+handed them back pleasantly. "Have you seen enough?" I inquired,
+laughing. "Yes," he replied. "Excuse me;" and with a beautiful salute
+he disappeared in the crowd. But another officer had joined the girls.
+"Please come inside," he whispered, and when they were in the hall, he
+asked them if they were enemies, to their great amusement.
+
+I was so busy with the luggage that I did not notice their departure.
+The real truth had not yet dawned upon me. The trunks were hoisted off
+the car to the ground, and the gay decoration of the hotel labels
+attracted considerable attention. People thronged round, and
+deciphered the various names. I have never seen such curiosity.
+Finally the last suitcase was carried in. The landlord came forward,
+washing his hands with invisible soap. "Quite an experience for you. I
+apologize, but you see the crowd thought you were Russians." We all
+laughed. The mystery was solved. After all it was quite thrilling to
+be taken for Russians, and lent a flavour to the day.
+
+We had dinner, and then for a few minutes we stayed in the hall
+discussing plans. A little man in uniform came in brandishing a
+bulletin. "We have taken a Russian harbour," he cried excitedly. "The
+place is in flames." An involuntary shudder went through me. The
+Russians were England's allies. Was this the first letter of the awful
+alphabet Europe was to be called on to spell? Was this the first of
+the mighty German conquests?
+
+I looked up, remembering that I was in Germany. Two very blue eyes
+were fixed upon me. At the moment I wondered if any _arriere pensee_
+lay behind that intense look, but the little man seemed quite
+friendly, and then our party broke up and we were soon all sound
+asleep, forgetful of the fact that we were in a country at war with
+its neighbours.
+
+The following morning (August 3) we got up early, as a car from the
+Adler Garage had been ordered at 9.30, but it did not come. The
+employees of the hotel were cool in their behaviour. The concierge, of
+whom one usually expects servility, proved surly, the waiter calmly
+insolent. The delay seemed interminable, so Kitty and I sat down and
+wrote letters, but we found it was of no use to post them, as none
+were going out of the country; so we put them in our handbags. Then
+Lyra and I went off in a taxi to the garage to inquire for the car,
+and found it just ready. As the luggage was being stacked on, two
+American girls came to ask us how we were going to get out of the
+country. Lyra offered to take them with us, but they refused because
+they had not packed up!
+
+At last we were off once more--thankful to be moving, and for some
+time we were able to enjoy the pretty pastoral scenery, and the
+charming little houses with black timbering set in their red brick.
+Our new car was a poor substitute for the Benz,--which had returned to
+Berlin for war duty,--and our handsome boy had given place to a
+stolid son of the soil with one green and one blue eye, a kindly soul,
+who radiated confidence. Outside Schloss Lippe he stopped to shift one
+of the trunks. Up sauntered an official and asked for his papers,
+which he produced. Then once more we headed in the direction of
+Minden.
+
+"_Halt._" A cordon of soldiers with bayonets across the road put an
+end to all appreciation of scenery. The "Halt" was very decisive, as
+well it might be on such an occasion, and we were surrounded by
+boys--fair-haired, smiling boys, with whom we laughed and talked as
+much as our limited vocabularies permitted. The chauffeur's pass was
+produced, and proved satisfactory. If all "Halts" were going to be
+such friendly affairs, we felt we were in for a merry day. We waived
+adieus to our youthful soldiers, but within a few hundred yards came
+another "Halt," and then another, and another. The fifth time we
+realized hand-waving and friendly salutations were not going to get
+us very far. Our trunks were to be examined. Our friendly chauffeur
+pleaded for us, but he was squashed. "This is war time. Examination
+must be made and no risks taken."
+
+"Yes, but these are children. They only want to get out of the
+country."
+
+Now, when a woman has said good-by to the popular age of thirty-five,
+she thinks kindly of a man who includes her amongst the "children," so
+never shall I forget the chauffeur with bi-coloured eyes! The young
+man with normal vision would take no risks, and we soon all joined in
+the game. We pressed our keys upon the soldiers, and not only invited
+them to climb upon the top of the landaulette, but climbed up
+ourselves, and obeyed all behests. The first deadly thing to come to
+light in my trunk was a Canadian bark workbox. "Open it." The contents
+was critically examined. Then various perilous packets were found:
+Soap--Soap--and again, Soap!
+
+The sun was hot, and so were we, but the investigation went on very
+thoroughly. At last it was over, but we were told that we had to go
+to the Kontrol office--whatever that might be. A chinless juvenile got
+into the car with us as escort, but he was so weighed down with the
+sense of his own importance that he was not very interesting. At the
+Kontrol office we were all marched into a little room. It had a bed,
+and on a washstand was a basin filled with clean water. We were so
+dirty after unstrapping and strapping trunks that we asked if we might
+wash our hands. Two kindly soldiers ministered to us and got us clean
+towels, and listened sympathetically to the story of our examination.
+Then in came the adjutant, and no one could have been nicer or more
+courteous. We explained that we were trying to get to Holland, as we
+wished to sail to America, and that our one desire was to get out of
+Germany as quickly as we could. He smiled, and then he went away, and
+wrote out a little paper and signed it. It was to the effect that we
+had been examined, and that all was satisfactory. Never have three
+women been more grateful for a little piece of paper, and when we
+said good-by to our benefactor, our gratitude was very real.
+
+We were soon spinning along again, but ugly indications of warfare
+began to be visible. Outside Minden we saw quantities of cannon being
+mounted, and then suddenly we came upon a motor in a ditch. Children
+were playing round it, and a man was keeping guard under a tree. Our
+chauffeur stopped to find out what had happened. The car had belonged
+to a Russian. He had tried to escape when told to "Halt," and had been
+shot. Truly the grim game had begun in this peaceful-looking land.
+
+Time after time we were stopped by orders of soldiers, and we got
+almost used to the imperative "Halt." But we had nothing to fear with
+our magic _passe-partout_. A few words of parleying, and then came the
+usual concession: "You may go on further." No one would say exactly
+where "further" meant, but surely we should get to the frontier. We
+headed for Osnabrueck, mistaking the road, however, at Luebeck, where
+the horses were being collected, and that delayed us for some time.
+The country now began to change in the magical way that countries do
+change when they begin to merge into neighbouring ones. We began to
+feel the Dutch element. Men, women, and children seemed to change,
+too, and to become more and more stolid. Boots gave way to sabots, and
+the little black and white cows began to wear the sacking jackets that
+they do in Holland.
+
+Before getting into Osnabrueck we passed the railway station. The gates
+were closed, and we stood still while a long, long train steamed
+slowly by us--a train decorated with huge boughs of greenery--a train
+packed with men--husbands, lovers--going to God knows what fate. They
+were shouting and waving and cheering. That is now a week ago.
+
+It was about six o'clock when we pulled up outside the hotel at
+Osnabrueck, so we had no time to waste over food. We had eaten nothing
+all day, but now we were able to buy some bread and cheese to eat _en
+route_. We were terribly dusty, and to save my own new coat, Kitty
+kindly lent me an old one of hers. It was bright rose-colour, and made
+me rather conspicuous as I took my turn on the little seat.
+
+The first important place after Osnabrueck was Rheine, and there, for
+the first time in the day, I began to wonder how things were going to
+turn out. Before we knew where we were, we were stopped by soldiers
+and mobbed by a dense, excited crowd. Even the wonderful paper did not
+have its usual effect. I was told I must proceed to headquarters
+before we could continue our journey, so I got out of the car, but
+when I saw the rabble which intended to accompany me, I told the two
+soldiers who were my escort that I should prefer walking arm-in-arm
+with them, and off we set, greatly to our own amusement and that of
+the mob which followed at our heels, yelling, "Russian! Russian
+criminal!"
+
+When we reached the railway station I was taken before the superior
+arbiter of our fate. He was a serious individual, and read the
+precious document very carefully. Then came the usual fiat: "You may
+go further."
+
+Great disappointment of the following crowd--a disappointment
+communicated to the unpleasant loafers who had continued to surge
+round the automobile in my absence. One of them had climbed on to the
+back and hit Lyra's hat twice, but she had been very calm, and kept
+her temper. When our innocence was made known the excitement died
+down, and we departed amidst cheers and waving handkerchiefs.
+
+I shall never forget the next part of the drive. My appearance
+produced the same effect everywhere. "Russian! Russian!" was on every
+lip. One individual whispered to another, and small groups of people
+knotted together and watched us out of sight. At one place a man
+jumped on a bicycle and tore off--perhaps to give information. At
+first I did not mind, but after a while the situation got on my
+nerves. We swung past a man who was guarding a bridge. He wasn't a
+real soldier, but he had a gun, and I _know_ he feels that he lost one
+of the chances of his life in letting me go, for his look of suspicion
+and hatred was unmistakable. Lyra kindly changed places with me,
+though she was very tired, and it was a relief to get out of the
+popular gaze.
+
+The day was beginning to close in, but a brilliant sun shining through
+heavy gray clouds lit up the world for a while like a watchful eye. We
+knew we could not be very far from the frontier, and this was
+confirmed by an official when we were stopped for the seventeenth
+time. He was very friendly, and gave the chauffeur much well-meant
+advice. "The actual frontier is at 'Kleine Brucke,'" he said, "but as
+no motors may pass and it is getting late, the ladies had better stay
+the night at Gronau and go on to Holland to-morrow." This sounded all
+right, but we felt we wanted to get out of the country at all costs,
+and that a cowshed in Holland was preferable to a grand hotel in
+Germany. The magic pass had stood us in such good stead, there could
+be no hitch now we had so nearly achieved our aim.
+
+We were so engrossed with the vicinity of safety that not one of us
+realized our chauffeur had forgotten to light up. All I remember is
+that we seemed suddenly to swoop down on a crowd, the peremptory
+"Halt!" rang out sharp and clear, and we came to a sudden standstill.
+The car was besieged by officials of every kind, and we all felt the
+genuine hostility in the air. A man in plain clothes was chief
+spokesman. I handed him the Minden pass, confident of its efficacy,
+and to our dismay, he put it in his pocket.
+
+"We are only trying to get into Holland," I explained. "We have our
+tickets here for passage in the Rotterdam." "Show them." The tickets
+were produced and shared the same fate as the pass. "Get out of the
+auto. The luggage is to be examined." We meekly obeyed. There was no
+other course to pursue. Kitty clutched at her precious little vanity
+bag, which had afforded so much amusement during the tour. A ponderous
+policeman pounced upon it. "Please give me my little bag," wailed
+Kitty. "Let me open it and show you the contents."
+
+The man did not understand her words, but he did understand her
+gesture as she stretched out her hands for the precious bag. He pushed
+her back roughly. Did this dangerous woman think he was going to allow
+her to throw a bomb in this her moment of despair? He rushed off into
+the crowd, gave the infernal machine to some one else to hold, and we
+saw it no more.
+
+The luggage was all dismounted, and three wooden chairs were brought
+for us to sit on while the examination took place. That scene will
+always stand out in our minds with theatrical vividness. Flaring
+electric lights lit up the road. There was a dense crowd of officials
+and loafers, and beyond, blackness. One or two men came up and talked.
+
+"We want to get into Holland. We want to get there to-night." "You
+cannot. The frontier is closed." "But when can we go?" "When the war
+is over." "That is incredible." "It is not incredible. You must stop
+here. It is a nice place. If you wanted a large town, why did you not
+stop in Berlin?" "Because we want to leave Germany. No one knows where
+we are. Can we communicate with any one?" "All communication is
+impossible."
+
+This was cheerful news, but we had no time in which to think it over.
+Lyra's trunk had been opened, and the examination had begun. Several
+young women had arrived on the scene, who proved excellent English
+scholars and most accomplished searchers. It was an education to watch
+their methods. Every garment was taken out, shaken, weighed in the
+hand, and held up to the light, then flung down carelessly. Pretty
+chiffons and fluffy dresses lay about on the dusty road; but no one
+cared. It was a sorry performance, and an unworthy one. Letters and
+papers were pounced on and read, and it was a revelation to realize
+how the most innocent wires and cables could be construed into having
+some subtle political significance. Finally the last garment was
+removed, and the trunk itself subjected to severe critical
+examination.
+
+By this time it was very late, and the hearts of our captors melted a
+little. We were told we might proceed (under arrest, of course) to the
+hotel, and that the remainder of the luggage would be examined there
+privately.
+
+Once more we took our seats in the car, but the drive can hardly be
+described as a triumphal progress. Soldiers walked in front, and
+soldiers walked at the side, till we arrived at the Hotel of the
+Angel--of all ironical names! Six women, including the searchers,
+joined us, and were very pleasant and kindly while our hand luggage
+was being examined sufficiently for us to get out some things for the
+night. They had a beautiful time, reading all the letters that lay
+scattered about in our belongings, and taking the keenest interest in
+all our possessions. Poor souls! They certainly needed a little
+diversion. One girl had said good-by to her fiance that morning, and
+another was a bride of twenty-four hours. She had married in haste to
+take the name of the man she loved before he went off to the frontier!
+
+We were allowed to choose our bedrooms, and Kitty and I elected to
+share one big one. Then we were told that we must be undressed and
+searched, so one by one we were taken off by two damsels, who were
+soon able to declare that we were not concealing anything criminal
+about us.
+
+The big man whose pockets had swallowed up our pass and tickets again
+appeared upon the scene, and proved to be the burgomaster of the town.
+He interviewed Lyra in one room--questioning and cross-questioning--and
+then he came to me. His suspicions seemed to be allaying, and his
+attitude was almost paternal. Although we had no passports, we were
+able to prove our identification very successfully--the girls by
+papers and letters, and I luckily had in my possession my permit to
+visit all the Italian galleries, with my photo pasted on to it. This
+proved me to be Conway Evans, living in Florence; but while the
+examination was going on, I wondered how long it would be before the
+question of my nationality would crop up.
+
+"Where is your husband?" "Florence, Italy." "Where do your father and
+mother live?" "Lausanne, Switzerland." "Where is your son?" "With my
+father and mother." "Where were you born?" "Georgetown, Demerara,
+South America."
+
+I have always loved my colonial birthplace and suffered gladly the
+epithet of "Mudhead," but I don't suppose I ever experienced the same
+relief from it as when I realized that the worthy burgomaster's
+geography did not locate it amongst the British possessions, and that
+he was willing to swallow me whole as an American if I could deny my
+Russian nationality!
+
+We were certainly very kindly treated. A supper of eggs and milk was
+prepared for us. While we were eating, the German girls sat with us
+and we got quite friendly. Bit by bit little things pieced themselves
+together like the pattern of a jig-saw puzzle. Our arrival at Gronau
+was no unforeseen event. We had been expected,--waited for,--and the
+fifteen men who had stood across the road to bar our progress had
+their fifteen guns ready to shoot if our stop had not been
+_instanter_. Information had been sent from Hannover that we were
+suspects. Who sent it we are never likely to know--the obsequious
+hotel proprietor, the owner of the blue eyes, the smiling boy officer,
+or the insolent waiter. No matter, we were suspects, and the worst
+conclusions were drawn when we arrived in a car without lights, and
+when I emerged into the flaring ring of light in a rose-red coat--a
+Russian colour, pregnant with criminality!! Had we realized our true
+position when that sudden halt was made, how frightened we should have
+been! As it was, it never occurred to us that we were in actual
+danger.
+
+At about one in the morning we went to bed, and dropped asleep from
+sheer fatigue. At about four Kitty and I woke up and discussed the
+situation dispassionately. We got out of our beds and looked out of
+the windows. Rain was falling in sheets, and the world seemed a cold,
+cheerless, uninviting place. The soldiers guarding us paced up and
+down, up and down, in the wet. Vitality is low at 4 a.m., and we were
+as dejected as any two mortals could be.
+
+Stay at Gronau--remain in this God-forsaken place till the European
+conflagration burnt itself out, cut off from every soul we cared about
+and unable to communicate--impossible! Having arrived at this logical
+conclusion, we returned to our beds and went to sleep. At eight
+o'clock the examiners returned to the charge. We went into a long room
+with a raised dais. There were long tables ranged down it, covered
+with stained cardboard mounts for beer-glasses. Cigar ashes were in
+saucers, cigar ends on the floor. The smell of stale beer permeated
+the atmosphere. It was an engaging _mise en scene_.
+
+Kitty and I were greeted by the head of police, two sergeants (one of
+them the bucolic hero of the vanity bag), and one of the girl
+searchers. The wearisome process began afresh. By the time the turn of
+my trunk came, the men were clearly bored. I had quantities of
+papers,--notes, MSS., sketches for lectures, extracts, charts,--papers
+which would have caused wild interest the evening before, but
+excitement was on the wane. By eleven o'clock everything had been seen
+thoroughly. The chief of police beamed upon us kindly. "It has to be
+done," he explained.
+
+Later the burgomaster reappeared, more paternal than ever, and most
+kindly disposed. He was really sorry for all we had gone through, and
+promised he would do all in his power to get us over the border, and
+he certainly kept his word. Out of his pockets came all our
+confiscated belongings, and from some safe hiding-place was produced
+the fatal vanity bag!
+
+At about one o'clock we went off again in the car, escorted by a now
+friendly policeman and one of the searchers. We were armed with a most
+reassuring pass, signed by the burgomaster himself, but when we
+arrived at the frontier and confidently handed it to the official
+there, he shook his head. "Impossible! Impossible!" he said. With a
+sudden rush our spirits sank to zero. This was the "most unkindest cut
+of all," but out of the darkness came light. We were at
+cross-purposes, and the man thought we wished to motor across the
+little bridge connecting Germany and Holland. We assured him we had no
+such desire, that I would take a trolley car to Einschede, charter a
+Dutch automobile to take us to Amsterdam, and return to the frontier
+to collect the girls and the luggage. Then came the hoped-for
+permission, and we all jumped out of the car. There was the little
+bridge--Kleine Brucke--and beyond Holland, the promised land. A few
+formalities, a few good-bys, a few planks traversed, and we were safe
+in a country that was neutral for the nonce: Holland, the
+stepping-stone to America.
+
+_S.S. Nieuw Amsterdam
+      A week later_
+
+
+
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