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+Project Gutenberg's Fashions in Literature, by Charles Dudley Warner
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Fashions in Literature
+
+Author: Charles Dudley Warner
+
+Release Date: December 5, 2004 [EBook #3109]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK FASHIONS IN LITERATURE ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by David Widger
+
+
+
+
+
+FASHIONS IN LITERATURE
+
+By Charles Dudley Warner
+
+
+
+
+INTRODUCTION
+
+Thirty years ago and more those who read and valued good books in this
+country made the acquaintance of Mr. Warner, and since the publication of
+"My Summer In a Garden" no work of his has needed any other introduction
+than the presence of his name on the title-page; and now that reputation
+has mellowed into memory, even the word of interpretation seems
+superfluous. Mr. Warner wrote out of a clear, as well as a full mind, and
+lucidity of style was part of that harmonious charm of sincerity and
+urbanity which made him one of the most intelligible and companionable of
+our writers.
+
+It is a pleasure, however, to recall him as, not long ago, we saw him
+move and heard him speak in the ripeness of years which brought him the
+full flavor of maturity without any loss of freshness from his humor or
+serenity from his thought. He shared with Lowell, Longfellow, and Curtis
+a harmony of nature and art, a unity of ideal and achievement, which make
+him a welcome figure, not only for what he said, but for what he was; one
+of those friends whose coming is hailed with joy because they seem always
+at their best, and minister to rather than draw upon our own capital of
+moral vitality.
+
+Mr. Warner was the most undogmatic of idealists, the most winning of
+teachers. He had always some thing to say to the ethical sense, a word
+for the conscience; but his approach was always through the mind, and his
+enforcement of the moral lesson was by suggestion rather than by
+commandment. There was nothing ascetic about him, no easy solution of the
+difficulties of life by ignoring or evading them; nor, on the other hand,
+was there any confusion of moral standards as the result of a confusion
+of ideas touching the nature and functions of art. He saw clearly, he
+felt deeply, and he thought straight; hence the rectitude of his mind,
+the sanity of his spirit, the justice of his dealings with the things
+which make for life and art. He used the essay as Addison used it, not
+for sermonic effect, but as a form of art which permitted a man to deal
+with serious things in a spirit of gayety, and with that lightness of
+touch which conveys influence without employing force. He was as deeply
+enamored as George William Curtis with the highest ideals of life for
+America, and, like Curtis, his expression caught the grace and
+distinction of those ideals.
+
+It is a pleasure to hear his voice once more, because its very accents
+suggest the most interesting, high-minded, and captivating ideals of
+living; he brings with him that air of fine breeding which is diffused by
+the men who, in mind as in manners, have been, in a distinctive sense,
+gentlemen; who have lived so constantly and habitually on intimate terms
+with the highest things in thought and character that the tone of this
+really best society has become theirs. Among men of talent there are
+plebeians as well as patricians; even genius, which is never vulgar, is
+sometimes unable to hide the vulgarity of the aims and ideas which it
+clothes with beauty without concealing their essential nature. Mr. Warner
+was a patrician; the most democratic of men, he was one of the most
+fastidious in his intellectual companionships and affiliations. The
+subjects about which he speaks with his oldtime directness and charm in
+this volume make us aware of the serious temper of his mind, of his deep
+interest in the life of his time and people, and of the easy and natural
+grace with which he insisted on facing the fact and bringing it to the
+test of the highest standards. In his discussion of "Fashions in
+Literature" he deftly brings before us the significance of literature and
+the signs which it always wears, while he seems bent upon considering
+some interesting aspects of contemporary writing.
+
+And how admirably he has described his own work in his definition of
+qualities which are common to all literature of a high order: simplicity,
+knowledge of human nature, agreeable personality. It would be impossible
+in briefer or more comprehensive phrase to sum up and express the secret
+of his influence and of the pleasure he gives us. It is to suggest this
+application of his words to himself that this preparatory comment is
+written.
+
+When "My Summer In a Garden" appeared, it won a host of friends who did
+not stop to ask whether it was a piece of excellent journalism or a bit
+of real literature. It was so natural, so informal, so intimate that
+readers accepted it as matter of course, as they accepted the blooming of
+flowers and the flitting of birds. It was simply a report of certain
+things which had happened out of doors, made by an observing neighbor,
+whose talk seemed to be of a piece with the diffused fragrance and light
+and life of the old-fashioned garden. This easy approach, along natural
+lines of interest, by quietly putting himself on common ground with his
+reader, Mr. Warner never abandoned; he was so delightful a companion that
+until he ceased to walk beside them, many of his friends of the mind did
+not realize how much he had enriched them by the way. This charming
+simplicity, which made it possible for him to put himself on intimate
+terms with his readers, was the result of his sincerity, his clearness of
+thought, and his ripe culture: that knowledge of the best which rids a
+man forever of faith in devices, dexterities, obscurities, and all other
+substitutes for the lucid realities of thinking and of character.
+
+To his love of reality and his sincere interest in men, Mr. Warner added
+natural shrewdness and long observation of the psychology of men and
+women under the stress and strain of experience. His knowledge of human
+nature did not lessen his geniality, but it kept the edge of his mind
+keen, and gave his work the variety not only of humor but of satire. He
+cared deeply for people, but they did not impose on him; he loved his
+country with a passion which was the more genuine because it was exacting
+and, at times, sharply critical. There runs through all his work, as a
+critic of manners and men, as well as of art, a wisdom of life born of
+wide and keen observation; put not into the form of aphorisms, but of
+shrewd comment, of keen criticism, of nice discrimination between the
+manifold shadings of insincerity, of insight into the action and reaction
+of conditions, surroundings, social and ethical aims on men and women.
+The stories written in his later years are full of the evidences of a
+knowledge of human nature which was singularly trustworthy and
+penetrating.
+
+When all has been said, however, it remains true of him, as of so many of
+the writers whom we read and love and love as we read, that the secret of
+his charm lay in an agreeable personality. At the end of the analysis, if
+the work is worth while, there is always a man, and the man is the
+explanation of the work. This is pre-eminently true of those writers
+whose charm lies less in distinctively intellectual qualities than in
+temperament, atmosphere, humor-writers of the quality of Steele,
+Goldsmith, Lamb, Irving. It is not only, therefore, a pleasure to recall
+Mr. Warner; it is a necessity if one would discover the secret of his
+charm, the source of his authority.
+
+He was a New Englander by birth and by long residence, but he was also a
+man of the world in the true sense of the phrase; one whose ethical
+judgment had been broadened without being lowered; who had learned that
+truth, though often strenuously enforced, is never so convincing as when
+stated in terms of beauty; and to whom it had been revealed that to live
+naturally, sanely, and productively one must live humanly, with due
+regard to the earthly as well as to heavenly, with ease as well as
+earnestness of spirit, through play no less than through work, in the
+large resources of art, society, and humor, as well as with the ancient
+and well-tested rectitudes of the fathers.
+
+The harmonious play of his whole nature, the breadth of his interests and
+the sanity of his spirit made Mr. Warner a delightful companion, and kept
+to the very end the freshness of his mind and the spontaneity of his
+humor; life never lost its savor for him, nor did his style part with its
+diffused but thoroughly individual humor. This latest collection of his
+papers, dealing with a wide range of subjects from the "Education of the
+Negro" to "Literature and the Stage," with characteristic comments on
+"Truthfulness" and "The Pursuit of Happiness," shows him at the end of
+his long and tireless career as a writer still deeply interested in
+contemporary events, responsive to the appeal of the questions of the
+hour, and sensitive to all things which affected the dignity and
+authority of literature. In his interests, his bearing, his relations to
+the public life of the country, no less than in his work, he held fast to
+the best traditions of literature, and he has taken his place among the
+representative American men of Letters.
+
+HAMILTON W. MABIE.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+FASHIONS IN LITERATURE
+
+If you examine a collection of prints of costumes of different
+generations, you are commonly amused by the ludicrous appearance of most
+of them, especially of those that are not familiar to you in your own
+decade. They are not only inappropriate and inconvenient to your eye, but
+they offend your taste. You cannot believe that they were ever thought
+beautiful and becoming. If your memory does not fail you, however, and
+you retain a little honesty of mind, you can recall the fact that a
+costume which seems to you ridiculous today had your warm approval ten
+years ago. You wonder, indeed, how you could ever have tolerated a
+costume which has not one graceful line, and has no more relation to the
+human figure than Mambrino's helmet had to a crown of glory. You cannot
+imagine how you ever approved the vast balloon skirt that gave your
+sweetheart the appearance of the great bell of Moscow, or that you
+yourself could have been complacent in a coat the tails of which reached
+your heels, and the buttons of which, a rudimentary survival, were
+between your shoulder-blades--you who are now devoted to a female figure
+that resembles an old-fashioned churn surmounted by an isosceles
+triangle.
+
+These vagaries of taste, which disfigure or destroy correct proportions
+or hide deformities, are nowhere more evident than in the illustrations
+of works of fiction. The artist who collaborates with the contemporary
+novelist has a hard fate. If he is faithful to the fashions of the day,
+he earns the repute of artistic depravity in the eyes of the next
+generation. The novel may become a classic, because it represents human
+nature, or even the whimsicalities of a period; but the illustrations of
+the artist only provoke a smile, because he has represented merely the
+unessential and the fleeting. The interest in his work is archaeological,
+not artistic. The genius of the great portrait-painter may to some extent
+overcome the disadvantages of contemporary costume, but if the costume of
+his period is hideous and lacks the essential lines of beauty, his work
+is liable to need the apology of quaintness. The Greek artist and the
+Mediaeval painter, when the costumes were really picturesque and made us
+forget the lack of simplicity in a noble sumptuousness, had never this
+posthumous difficulty to contend with.
+
+In the examination of costumes of different races and different ages, we
+are also struck by the fact that with primitive or isolated peoples
+costumes vary little from age to age, and fashion and the fashions are
+unrecognized, and a habit of dress which is dictated by climate, or has
+been proved to be comfortable, is adhered to from one generation to
+another; while nations that we call highly civilized, meaning commonly
+not only Occidental peoples, but peoples called progressive, are subject
+to the most frequent and violent changes of fashions, not in generations
+only, but in decades and years of a generation, as if the mass had no
+mind or taste of its own, but submitted to the irresponsible ukase of
+tailors and modistes, who are in alliance with enterprising manufacturers
+of novelties. In this higher civilization a costume which is artistic and
+becoming has no more chance of permanence than one which is ugly and
+inconvenient. It might be inferred that this higher civilization produces
+no better taste and discrimination, no more independent judgment, in
+dress than it does in literature. The vagaries in dress of the Western
+nations for a thousand years past, to go back no further, are certainly
+highly amusing, and would be humiliating to people who regarded taste and
+art as essentials of civilization. But when we speak of civilization, we
+cannot but notice that some of the great civilizations; the longest
+permanent and most notable for highest achievement in learning, science,
+art, or in the graces or comforts of life, the Egyptian, the Saracenic,
+the Chinese, were subject to no such vagaries in costume, but adhered to
+that which taste, climate, experience had determined to be the most
+useful and appropriate. And it is a singular comment upon our modern
+conceit that we make our own vagaries and changeableness, and not any
+fixed principles of art or of utility, the criterion of judgment, on
+other races and other times.
+
+The more important result of the study of past fashions, in engravings
+and paintings, remains to be spoken of. It is that in all the
+illustrations, from the simplicity of Athens, through the artificiality
+of Louis XIV and the monstrosities of Elizabeth, down to the undescribed
+modistic inventions of the first McKinley, there is discoverable a
+radical and primitive law of beauty. We acknowledge it among the Greeks,
+we encounter it in one age and another. I mean a style of dress that is
+artistic as well as picturesque, that satisfies our love of beauty, that
+accords with the grace of the perfect human figure, and that gives as
+perfect satisfaction to the cultivated taste as a drawing by Raphael.
+While all the other illustrations of the human ingenuity in making the
+human race appear fantastic or ridiculous amuse us or offend our taste,
+--except the tailor fashion-plates of the week that is now,--these few
+exceptions, classic or modern, give us permanent delight, and are
+recognized as following the eternal law of beauty and utility. And we
+know, notwithstanding the temporary triumph of bad taste and the public
+lack of any taste, that there is a standard, artistic and imperishable.
+
+The student of manners might find an interesting field in noting how, in
+our Occidental civilizations, fluctuations of opinions, of morals, and of
+literary style have been accompanied by more or less significant
+exhibitions of costumes. He will note in the Precieux of France and the
+Euphuist of England a corresponding effeminacy in dress; in the frank
+paganism of the French Revolution the affectation of Greek and Roman
+apparel, passing into the Directoire style in the Citizen and the
+Citizeness; in the Calvinistic cut of the Puritan of Geneva and of New
+England the grim severity of their theology and morals. These examples
+are interesting as showing an inclination to express an inner condition
+by the outward apparel, as the Quakers indicate an inward peace by an
+external drabness, and the American Indian a bellicose disposition by red
+and yellow paint; just as we express by red stripes our desire to kill
+men with artillery, or by yellow stripes to kill them with cavalry. It is
+not possible to say whether these external displays are relics of
+barbarism or are enduring necessities of human nature.
+
+The fickleness of men in costume in a manner burlesques their shifty and
+uncertain taste in literature. A book or a certain fashion in letters
+will have a run like a garment, and, like that, will pass away before it
+waxes old. It seems incredible, as we look back over the literary history
+of the past three centuries only, what prevailing styles and moods of
+expression, affectations, and prettinesses, each in turn, have pleased
+reasonably cultivated people. What tedious and vapid things they read and
+liked to read! Think of the French, who had once had a Villon,
+intoxicating themselves with somnolent draughts of Richardson. But, then,
+the French could match the paste euphuisms of Lyly with the novels of
+Scudery. Every modern literature has been subject to these epidemics and
+diseases. It is needless to dwell upon them in detail. Since the great
+diffusion of printing, these literary crazes have been more frequent and
+of shorter duration. We need go back no further than a generation to find
+abundant examples of eccentricities of style and expression, of crazes
+over some author or some book, as unaccountable on principles of art as
+many of the fashions in social life.--The more violent the attack, the
+sooner it is over. Readers of middle age can recall the furor over
+Tupper, the extravagant expectations as to the brilliant essayist
+Gilfillan, the soon-extinguished hopes of the poet Alexander Smith. For
+the moment the world waited in the belief of the rising of new stars, and
+as suddenly realized that it had been deceived. Sometimes we like
+ruggedness, and again we like things made easy. Within a few years a
+distinguished Scotch clergyman made a fortune by diluting a paragraph
+written by Saint Paul. It is in our memory how at one time all the boys
+tried to write like Macaulay, and then like Carlyle, and then like
+Ruskin, and we have lived to see the day when all the girls would like to
+write like Heine.
+
+In less than twenty years we have seen wonderful changes in public taste
+and in the efforts of writers to meet it or to create it. We saw the
+everlastingly revived conflict between realism and romanticism. We saw
+the realist run into the naturalist, the naturalist into the animalist,
+the psychologist into the sexualist, and the sudden reaction to romance,
+in the form of what is called the historic novel, the receipt for which
+can be prescribed by any competent pharmacist. The one essential in the
+ingredients is that the hero shall be mainly got out of one hole by
+dropping him into a deeper one, until--the proper serial length being
+attained--he is miraculously dropped out into daylight, and stands to
+receive the plaudits of a tenderhearted world, that is fond of nothing so
+much as of fighting.
+
+The extraordinary vogue of certain recent stories is not so much to be
+wondered at when we consider the millions that have been added to the
+readers of English during the past twenty-five years. The wonder is that
+a new book does not sell more largely, or it would be a wonder if the
+ability to buy kept pace with the ability to read, and if discrimination
+had accompanied the appetite for reading. The critics term these
+successes of some recent fictions "crazes," but they are really sustained
+by some desirable qualities--they are cleverly written, and they are for
+the moment undoubtedly entertaining. Some of them as undoubtedly appeal
+to innate vulgarity or to cultivated depravity. I will call no names,
+because that would be to indict the public taste. This recent phenomenon
+of sales of stories by the hundred thousand is not, however, wholly due
+to quality. Another element has come in since the publishers have
+awakened to the fact that literature can be treated like merchandise. To
+use their own phrase, they "handle" books as they would "handle" patent
+medicines, that is, the popular patent medicines that are desired because
+of the amount of alcohol they contain; indeed, they are sold along with
+dry-goods and fancy notions. I am not objecting to this great and wide
+distribution any more than I am to the haste of fruit-dealers to market
+their products before they decay. The wary critic will be very careful
+about dogmatizing over the nature and distribution of literary products.
+It is no certain sign that a book is good because it is popular, nor is
+it any more certain that it is good because it has a very limited sale.
+Yet we cannot help seeing that many of the books that are the subject of
+crazes utterly disappear in a very short time, while many others,
+approved by only a judicious few, continue in the market and slowly
+become standards, considered as good stock by the booksellers and
+continually in a limited demand.
+
+The English essayists have spent a good deal of time lately in discussing
+the question whether it is possible to tell a good contemporary book from
+a bad one. Their hesitation is justified by a study of English criticism
+of new books in the quarterly, monthly, and weekly periodicals from the
+latter part of the eighteenth century to the last quarter of the
+nineteenth; or, to name a definite period, from the verse of the Lake
+poets, from Shelley and Byron, down to Tennyson, there is scarcely a poet
+who has attained world-wide assent to his position in the first or second
+rank who was not at the hands of the reviewers the subject of mockery and
+bitter detraction. To be original in any degree was to be damned. And
+there is scarcely one who was at first ranked as a great light during
+this period who is now known out of the biographical dictionary. Nothing
+in modern literature is more amazing than the bulk of English criticism
+in the last three-quarters of a century, so far as it concerned
+individual writers, both in poetry and prose. The literary rancor shown
+rose to the dignity almost of theological vituperation.
+
+Is there any way to tell a good book from a bad one? Yes. As certainly as
+you can tell a good picture from a bad one, or a good egg from a bad one.
+Because there are hosts who do not discriminate as to the eggs or the
+butter they eat, it does not follow that a normal taste should not know
+the difference.
+
+Because there is a highly artistic nation that welcomes the flavor of
+garlic in everything, and another which claims to be the most civilized
+in the world that cannot tell coffee from chicory, or because the ancient
+Chinese love rancid sesame oil, or the Esquimaux like spoiled blubber and
+tainted fish, it does not follow that there is not in the world a
+wholesome taste for things natural and pure.
+
+It is clear that the critic of contemporary literature is quite as likely
+to be wrong as right. He is, for one thing, inevitably affected by the
+prevailing fashion of his little day. And, worse still, he is apt to make
+his own tastes and prejudices the standard of his judgment. His view is
+commonly provincial instead of cosmopolitan. In the English period just
+referred to it is easy to see that most of the critical opinion was
+determined by political or theological animosity and prejudice. The rule
+was for a Tory to hit a Whig or a Whig to hit a Tory, under whatever
+literary guise he appeared. If the new writer was not orthodox in the
+view of his political or theological critic, he was not to be tolerated
+as poet or historian, Dr. Johnson had said everything he could say
+against an author when he declared that he was a vile Whig. Macaulay, a
+Whig, always consulted his prejudices for his judgment, equally when he
+was reviewing Croker's Boswell or the impeachment of Warren Hastings. He
+hated Croker,--a hateful man, to be sure,--and when the latter published
+his edition of Boswell, Macaulay saw his opportunity, and exclaimed
+before he had looked at the book, as you will remember, "Now I will dust
+his jacket." The standard of criticism does not lie with the individual
+in literature any more than it does in different periods as to fashions
+and manners. The world is pretty well agreed, and always has been, as to
+the qualities that make a gentleman. And yet there was a time when the
+vilest and perhaps the most contemptible man who ever occupied the
+English throne,--and that is saying a great deal,--George IV, was
+universally called the "First Gentleman of Europe." The reproach might be
+somewhat lightened by the fact that George was a foreigner, but for the
+wider fact that no person of English stock has been on the throne since
+Saxon Harold, the chosen and imposed rulers of England having been
+French, Welsh, Scotch, and Dutch, many of them being guiltless of the
+English language, and many of them also of the English middle-class
+morality. The impartial old Wraxall, the memorialist of the times of
+George III, having described a noble as a gambler, a drunkard, a
+smuggler, an appropriator of public money, who always cheated his
+tradesmen, who was one and sometimes all of them together, and a
+profligate generally, commonly adds, "But he was a perfect gentleman."
+And yet there has always been a standard that excludes George IV from the
+rank of gentleman, as it excludes Tupper from the rank of poet.
+
+The standard of literary judgment, then, is not in the individual,--that
+is, in the taste and prejudice of the individual,--any more than it is in
+the immediate contemporary opinion, which is always in flux and reflux
+from one extreme to another; but it is in certain immutable principles
+and qualities which have been slowly evolved during the long historic
+periods of literary criticism. But how shall we ascertain what these
+principles are, so as to apply them to new circumstances and new
+creations, holding on to the essentials and disregarding contemporary
+tastes; prejudices, and appearances? We all admit that certain pieces of
+literature have become classic; by general consent there is no dispute
+about them. How they have become so we cannot exactly explain. Some say
+by a mysterious settling of universal opinion, the operation of which
+cannot be exactly defined. Others say that the highly developed critical
+judgment of a few persons, from time to time, has established forever
+what we agree to call masterpieces. But this discussion is immaterial,
+since these supreme examples of literary excellence exist in all kinds of
+composition,--poetry, fable, romance, ethical teaching, prophecy,
+interpretation, history, humor, satire, devotional flight into the
+spiritual and supernatural, everything in which the human mind has
+exercised itself,--from the days of the Egyptian moralist and the Old
+Testament annalist and poet down to our scientific age. These
+masterpieces exist from many periods and in many languages, and they all
+have qualities in common which have insured their persistence. To
+discover what these qualities are that have insured permanence and
+promise indefinite continuance is to have a means of judging with an
+approach to scientific accuracy our contemporary literature. There is no
+thing of beauty that does not conform to a law of order and beauty--poem,
+story, costume, picture, statue, all fall into an ascertainable law of
+art. Nothing of man's making is perfect, but any creation approximates
+perfection in the measure that it conforms to inevitable law.
+
+To ascertain this law, and apply it, in art or in literature, to the
+changing conditions of our progressive life, is the business of the
+artist. It is the business of the critic to mark how the performance
+conforms to or departs from the law evolved and transmitted in the
+long-experience of the race. True criticism, then, is not a matter of
+caprice or of individual liking or disliking, nor of conformity to a
+prevailing and generally temporary popular judgment. Individual judgment
+may be very interesting and have its value, depending upon the capacity
+of the judge. It was my good fortune once to fall in with a person who
+had been moved, by I know not what inspiration, to project himself out of
+his safe local conditions into France, Greece, Italy, Cairo, and
+Jerusalem. He assured me that he had seen nothing anywhere in the wide
+world of nature and art to compare with the beauty of Nebraska.
+
+What are the qualities common to all the masterpieces of literature, or,
+let us say, to those that have endured in spite of imperfections and
+local provincialisms?
+
+First of all I should name simplicity, which includes lucidity of
+expression, the clear thought in fitting, luminous words. And this is
+true when the thought is profound and the subject is as complex as life
+itself. This quality is strikingly exhibited for us in Jowett's
+translation of Plato--which is as modern in feeling and phrase as
+anything done in Boston--in the naif and direct Herodotus, and, above
+all, in the King James vernacular translation of the Bible, which is the
+great text-book of all modern literature.
+
+The second quality is knowledge of human nature. We can put up with the
+improbable in invention, because the improbable is always happening in
+life, but we cannot tolerate the so-called psychological juggling with
+the human mind, the perversion of the laws of the mind, the forcing of
+character to fit the eccentricities of plot. Whatever excursions the
+writer makes in fancy, we require fundamental consistency with human
+nature. And this is the reason why psychological studies of the abnormal,
+or biographies of criminal lunatics, are only interesting to pathologists
+and never become classics in literature.
+
+A third quality common to all masterpieces is what we call charm, a
+matter more or less of style, and which may be defined as the agreeable
+personality of the writer. This is indispensable. It is this personality
+which gives the final value to every work of art as well as of
+literature. It is not enough to copy nature or to copy, even accurately,
+the incidents of life. Only by digestion and transmutation through
+personality does any work attain the dignity of art. The great works of
+architecture, even, which are somewhat determined by mathematical rule,
+owe their charm to the personal genius of their creators. For this reason
+our imitations of Greek architecture are commonly failures. To speak
+technically, the masterpiece of literature is characterized by the same
+knowledge of proportion and perspective as the masterpiece in art.
+
+If there is a standard of literary excellence, as there is a law of
+beauty--and it seems to me that to doubt this in the intellectual world
+is to doubt the prevalence of order that exists in the natural--it is
+certainly possible to ascertain whether a new production conforms, and
+how far it conforms, to the universally accepted canons of art. To work
+by this rule in literary criticism is to substitute something definite
+for the individual tastes, moods, and local bias of the critic. It is
+true that the vast body of that which we read is ephemeral, and justifies
+its existence by its obvious use for information, recreation, and
+entertainment. But to permit the impression to prevail that an
+unenlightened popular preference for a book, however many may hold it, is
+to be taken as a measure of its excellence, is like claiming that a
+debased Austrian coin, because it circulates, is as good as a gold stater
+of Alexander. The case is infinitely worse than this; for a slovenly
+literature, unrebuked and uncorrected, begets slovenly thought and
+debases our entire intellectual life.
+
+It should be remembered, however, that the creative faculty in man has
+not ceased, nor has puny man drawn all there is to be drawn out of the
+eternal wisdom. We are probably only in the beginning of our evolution,
+and something new may always be expected, that is, new and fresh
+applications of universal law. The critic of literature needs to be in an
+expectant and receptive frame of mind. Many critics approach a book with
+hostile intent, and seem to fancy that their business is to look for what
+is bad in it, and not for what is good. It seems to me that the first
+duty of the critic is to try to understand the author, to give him a fair
+chance by coming to his perusal with an open mind. Whatever book you
+read, or sermon or lecture you hear, give yourself for the time
+absolutely to its influence. This is just to the author, fair to the
+public, and, above all, valuable to the intellectual sanity of the critic
+himself. It is a very bad thing for the memory and the judgment to get
+into a habit of reading carelessly or listening with distracted
+attention. I know of nothing so harmful to the strength of the mind as
+this habit. There is a valuable mental training in closely following a
+discourse that is valueless in itself. After the reader has unreservedly
+surrendered himself to the influence of the book, and let his mind
+settle, as we say, and resume its own judgment, he is in a position to
+look at it objectively and to compare it with other facts of life and of
+literature dispassionately. He can then compare it as to form, substance,
+tone, with the enduring literature that has come down to us from all the
+ages. It is a phenomenon known to all of us that we may for the moment be
+carried away by a book which upon cool reflection we find is false in
+ethics and weak in construction. We find this because we have standards
+outside ourselves.
+
+I am not concerned to define here what is meant by literature. A great
+mass of it has been accumulated in the progress of mankind, and,
+fortunately for different wants and temperaments, it is as varied as the
+various minds that produced it. The main thing to be considered is that
+this great stream of thought is the highest achievement and the most
+valuable possession of mankind. It is not only that literature is the
+source of inspiration to youth and the solace of age, but it is what a
+national language is to a nation, the highest expression of its being.
+Whatever we acquire of science, of art, in discovery, in the application
+of natural laws in industries, is an enlargement of our horizon, and a
+contribution to the highest needs of man, his intellectual life. The
+controversy between the claims of the practical life and the intellectual
+is as idle as the so-called conflict between science and religion. And
+the highest and final expression of this life of man, his thought, his
+emotion, his feeling, his aspiration, whatever you choose to call it, is
+in the enduring literature he creates. He certainly misses half his
+opportunity on this planet who considers only the physical or what is
+called the practical. He is a man only half developed. I can conceive no
+more dreary existence than that of a man who is past the period of
+business activity, and who cannot, for his entertainment, his happiness,
+draw upon the great reservoir of literature. For what did I come into
+this world if I am to be like a stake planted in a fence, and not like a
+tree visited by all the winds of heaven and the birds of the air?
+
+Those who concern themselves with the printed matter in books and
+periodicals are often in despair over the volume of it, and their actual
+inability to keep up with current literature. They need not worry. If all
+that appears in books, under the pressure of publishers and the ambition
+of experimenters in writing, were uniformly excellent, no reader would be
+under any more obligation to read it than he is to see every individual
+flower and blossoming shrub. Specimens of the varieties would suffice.
+But a vast proportion of it is the product of immature minds, and of a
+yearning for experience rather than a knowledge of life. There is no more
+obligation on the part of the person who would be well informed and
+cultivated to read all this than there is to read all the colored
+incidents, personal gossip, accidents, and crimes repeated daily, with
+sameness of effect, in the newspapers, some of the most widely circulated
+of which are a composite of the police gazette and the comic almanac. A
+great deal of the reading done is mere contagion, one form or another of
+communicated grippe, and it is consoling and even surprising to know that
+if you escape the run of it for a season, you have lost nothing
+appreciable. Some people, it has been often said, make it a rule never to
+read a book until it is from one to five years old, By this simple device
+they escape the necessity of reading most of them, but this is only a
+part of their gain. Considering the fact that the world is full of books
+of the highest value for cultivation, entertainment, and information,
+which the utmost leisure we can spare from other pressing avocations does
+not suffice to give us knowledge of, it does seem to be little less than
+a moral and intellectual sin to flounder about blindly in the flood of
+new publications. I am speaking, of course, of the general mass of
+readers, and not of the specialists who must follow their subjects with
+ceaseless inquisition. But for most of us who belong to the still
+comparatively few who, really read books, the main object of life is not
+to keep up with the printing-press, any more than it is the main object
+of sensible people to follow all the extremes and whims of fashion in
+dress. When a fashion in literature has passed, we are surprised that it
+should ever have seemed worth the trouble of studying or imitating. When
+the special craze has passed, we notice another thing, and that is that
+the author, not being of the first rank or of the second, has generally
+contributed to the world all that he has to give in one book, and our
+time has been wasted on his other books; and also that in a special kind
+of writing in a given period--let us say, for example, the
+historico-romantic--we perceive that it all has a common character, is
+constructed on the same lines of adventure and with a prevailing type of
+hero and heroine, according to the pattern set by the first one or two
+stories of the sort which became popular, and we see its more or less
+mechanical construction, and how easily it degenerates into commercial
+book-making. Now while some of this writing has an individual flavor that
+makes it entertaining and profitable in this way, we may be excused from
+attempting to follow it all merely because it happens to be talked about
+for the moment, and generally talked about in a very undiscriminating
+manner. We need not in any company be ashamed if we have not read it all,
+especially if we are ashamed that, considering the time at our disposal,
+we have not made the acquaintance of the great and small masterpieces of
+literature. It is said that the fashion of this world passeth away, and
+so does the mere fashion in literature, the fashion that does not follow
+the eternal law of beauty and symmetry, and contribute to the
+intellectual and spiritual part of man. Otherwise it is only a waiting in
+a material existence, like the lovers, in the words of the Arabian
+story-teller, "till there came to them the Destroyer of Delights and the
+Sunderer of Companies, he who layeth waste the palaces and peopleth the
+tombs."
+
+Without special anxiety, then, to keep pace with all the ephemeral in
+literature, lest we should miss for the moment something that is
+permanent, we can rest content in the vast accumulation of the tried and
+genuine that the ages have given us. Anything that really belongs to
+literature today we shall certainly find awaiting us tomorrow.
+
+The better part of the life of man is in and by the imagination. This is
+not generally believed, because it is not generally believed that the
+chief end of man is the accumulation of intellectual and spiritual
+material. Hence it is that what is called a practical education is set
+above the mere enlargement and enrichment of the mind; and the possession
+of the material is valued, and the intellectual life is undervalued. But
+it should be remembered that the best preparation for a practical and
+useful life is in the high development of the powers of the mind, and
+that, commonly, by a culture that is not considered practical. The
+notable fact about the group of great parliamentary orators in the days
+of George III is the exhibition of their intellectual resources in the
+entire world of letters, the classics, and ancient and modern history.
+Yet all of them owed their development to a strictly classical training
+in the schools. And most of them had not only the gift of the imagination
+necessary to great eloquence, but also were so mentally disciplined by
+the classics that they handled the practical questions upon which they
+legislated with clearness and precision. The great masters of finance
+were the classically trained orators William Pitt and Charles James Fox.
+
+In fine, to return to our knowledge of the short life of fashions that
+are for the moment striking, why should we waste precious time in chasing
+meteoric appearances, when we can be warmed and invigorated in the
+sunshine of the great literatures?
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg's Fashions in Literature, by Charles Dudley Warner
+
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+Title: Fashions in Literature
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+Fashions in Literature
+
+by Charles Dudley Warner
+
+
+
+
+INTRODUCTION
+
+Thirty years ago and more those who read and valued good books in this
+country made the acquaintance of Mr. Warner, and since the publication of
+"My Summer In a Garden" no work of his has needed any other introduction
+than the presence of his name on the title-page; and now that reputation
+has mellowed into memory, even the word of interpretation seems
+superfluous. Mr. Warner wrote out of a clear, as well as a full mind,
+and lucidity of style was part of that harmonious charm of sincerity and
+urbanity which made him one of the most intelligible and companionable of
+our writers.
+
+It is a pleasure, however, to recall him as, not long ago, we saw him
+move and heard him speak in the ripeness of years which brought him the
+full flavor of maturity without any loss of freshness from his humor or
+serenity from his thought. He shared with Lowell, Longfellow, and Curtis
+a harmony of nature and art, a unity of ideal and achievement, which make
+him a welcome figure, not only for what he said, but for what he was; one
+of those friends whose coming is hailed with joy because they seem always
+at their best, and minister to rather than draw upon our own capital of
+moral vitality.
+
+Mr. Warner was the most undogmatic of idealists, the most winning of
+teachers. He had always some thing to say to the ethical sense, a word
+for the conscience; but his approach was always through the mind, and his
+enforcement of the moral lesson was by suggestion rather than by
+commandment. There was nothing ascetic about him, no easy solution of
+the difficulties of life by ignoring or evading them; nor, on the other
+hand, was there any confusion of moral standards as the result of a
+confusion of ideas touching the nature and functions of art. He saw
+clearly, he felt deeply, and he thought straight; hence the rectitude of
+his mind, the sanity of his spirit, the justice of his dealings with the
+things which make for life and art. He used the essay as Addison used
+it, not for sermonic effect, but as a form of art which permitted a man
+to deal with serious things in a spirit of gayety, and with that
+lightness of touch which conveys influence without employing force. He
+was as deeply enamored as George William Curtis with the highest ideals
+of life for America, and, like Curtis, his expression caught the grace
+and distinction of those ideals.
+
+It is a pleasure to hear his voice once more, because its very accents
+suggest the most interesting, high-minded, and captivating ideals of
+living; he brings with him that air of fine breeding which is diffused by
+the men who, in mind as in manners, have been, in a distinctive sense,
+gentlemen; who have lived so constantly and habitually on intimate terms
+with the highest things in thought and character that the tone of this
+really best society has become theirs. Among men of talent there are
+plebeians as well as patricians; even genius, which is never vulgar, is
+sometimes unable to hide the vulgarity of the aims and ideas which it
+clothes with beauty without concealing their essential nature. Mr.
+Warner was a patrician; the most democratic of men, he was one of the
+most fastidious in his intellectual companionships and affiliations.
+The subjects about which he speaks with his oldtime directness and charm
+in this volume make us aware of the serious temper of his mind, of his
+deep interest in the life of his time and people, and of the easy and
+natural grace with which he insisted on facing the fact and bringing it
+to the test of the highest standards. In his discussion of "Fashions in
+Literature" he deftly brings before us the significance of literature and
+the signs which it always wears, while he seems bent upon considering
+some interesting aspects of contemporary writing.
+
+And how admirably he has described his own work in his definition of
+qualities which are common to all literature of a high order: simplicity,
+knowledge of human nature, agreeable personality. It would be impossible
+in briefer or more comprehensive phrase to sum up and express the secret
+of his influence and of the pleasure he gives us. It is to suggest this
+application of his words to himself that this preparatory comment is
+written.
+
+When "My Summer In a Garden" appeared, it won a host of friends who did
+not stop to ask whether it was a piece of excellent journalism or a bit
+of real literature. It was so natural, so informal, so intimate that
+readers accepted it as matter of course, as they accepted the blooming of
+flowers and the flitting of birds. It was simply a report of certain
+things which had happened out of doors, made by an observing neighbor,
+whose talk seemed to be of a piece with the diffused fragrance and light
+and life of the old-fashioned garden. This easy approach, along natural
+lines of interest, by quietly putting himself on common ground with his
+reader, Mr. Warner never abandoned; he was so delightful a companion that
+until he ceased to walk beside them, many of his friends of the mind did
+not realize how much he had enriched them by the way. This charming
+simplicity, which made it possible for him to put himself on intimate
+terms with his readers, was the result of his sincerity, his clearness of
+thought, and his ripe culture: that knowledge of the best which rids a
+man forever of faith in devices, dexterities, obscurities, and all other
+substitutes for the lucid realities of thinking and of character.
+
+To his love of reality and his sincere interest in men, Mr. Warner added
+natural shrewdness and long observation of the psychology of men and
+women under the stress and strain of experience. His knowledge of human
+nature did not lessen his geniality, but it kept the edge of his mind
+keen, and gave his work the variety not only of humor but of satire. He
+cared deeply for people, but they did not impose on him; he loved his
+country with a passion which was the more genuine because it was exacting
+and, at times, sharply critical. There runs through all his work, as a
+critic of manners and men, as well as of art, a wisdom of life born of
+wide and keen observation; put not into the form of aphorisms, but of
+shrewd comment, of keen criticism, of nice discrimination between the
+manifold shadings of insincerity, of insight into the action and reaction
+of conditions, surroundings, social and ethical aims on men and women.
+The stories written in his later years are full of the evidences of a
+knowledge of human nature which was singularly trustworthy and
+penetrating.
+
+When all has been said, however, it remains true of him, as of so many of
+the writers whom we read and love and love as we read, that the secret of
+his charm lay in an agreeable personality. At the end of the analysis,
+if the work is worth while, there is always a man, and the man is the
+explanation of the work. This is pre-eminently true of those writers
+whose charm lies less in distinctively intellectual qualities than in
+temperament, atmosphere, humor-writers of the quality of Steele,
+Goldsmith, Lamb, Irving. It is not only, therefore, a pleasure to recall
+Mr. Warner; it is a necessity if one would discover the secret of his
+charm, the source of his authority.
+
+He was a New Englander by birth and by long residence, but he was also a
+man of the world in the true sense of the phrase; one whose ethical
+judgment had been broadened without being lowered; who had learned that
+truth, though often strenuously enforced, is never so convincing as when
+stated in terms of beauty; and to whom it had been revealed that to live
+naturally, sanely, and productively one must live humanly, with due
+regard to the earthly as well as to heavenly, with ease as well as
+earnestness of spirit, through play no less than through work, in the
+large resources of art, society, and humor, as well as with the ancient
+and well-tested rectitudes of the fathers.
+
+The harmonious play of his whole nature, the breadth of his interests and
+the sanity of his spirit made Mr. Warner a delightful companion, and kept
+to the very end the freshness of his mind and the spontaneity of his
+humor; life never lost its savor for him, nor did his style part with its
+diffused but thoroughly individual humor. This latest collection of his
+papers, dealing with a wide range of subjects from the "Education of the
+Negro" to "Literature and the Stage," with characteristic comments on
+"Truthfulness" and "The Pursuit of Happiness," shows him at the end of
+his long and tireless career as a writer still deeply interested in
+contemporary events, responsive to the appeal of the questions of the
+hour, and sensitive to all things which affected the dignity and
+authority of literature. In his interests, his bearing, his relations to
+the public life of the country, no less than in his work, he held fast to
+the best traditions of literature, and he has taken his place among the
+representative American men of Letters.
+
+HAMILTON W. MABIE.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+FASHIONS IN LITERATURE
+
+If you examine a collection of prints of costumes of different
+generations, you are commonly amused by the ludicrous appearance of most
+of them, especially of those that are not familiar to you in your own
+decade. They are not only inappropriate and inconvenient to your eye,
+but they offend your taste. You cannot believe that they were ever
+thought beautiful and becoming. If your memory does not fail you,
+however, and you retain a little honesty of mind, you can recall the fact
+that a costume which seems to you ridiculous today had your warm approval
+ten years ago. You wonder, indeed, how you could ever have tolerated a
+costume which has not one graceful line, and has no more relation to the
+human figure than Mambrino's helmet had to a crown of glory. You cannot
+imagine how you ever approved the vast balloon skirt that gave your
+sweetheart the appearance of the great bell of Moscow, or that you
+yourself could have been complacent in a coat the tails of which reached
+your heels, and the buttons of which, a rudimentary survival, were
+between your shoulder-blades--you who are now devoted to a female figure
+that resembles an old-fashioned churn surmounted by an isosceles
+triangle.
+
+These vagaries of taste, which disfigure or destroy correct proportions
+or hide deformities, are nowhere more evident than in the illustrations
+of works of fiction. The artist who collaborates with the contemporary
+novelist has a hard fate. If he is faithful to the fashions of the day,
+he earns the repute of artistic depravity in the eyes of the next
+generation. The novel may become a classic, because it represents human
+nature, or even the whimsicalities of a period; but the illustrations of
+the artist only provoke a smile, because he has represented merely the
+unessential and the fleeting. The interest in his work is
+archaeological, not artistic. The genius of the great portrait-painter
+may to some extent overcome the disadvantages of contemporary costume,
+but if the costume of his period is hideous and lacks the essential lines
+of beauty, his work is liable to need the apology of quaintness. The
+Greek artist and the Mediaeval painter, when the costumes were really
+picturesque and made us forget the lack of simplicity in a noble
+sumptuousness, had never this posthumous difficulty to contend with.
+
+In the examination of costumes of different races and different ages, we
+are also struck by the fact that with primitive or isolated peoples
+costumes vary little from age to age, and fashion and the fashions are
+unrecognized, and a habit of dress which is dictated by climate, or has
+been proved to be comfortable, is adhered to from one generation to
+another; while nations that we call highly civilized, meaning commonly
+not only Occidental peoples, but peoples called progressive, are subject
+to the most frequent and violent changes of fashions, not in generations
+only, but in decades and years of a generation, as if the mass had no
+mind or taste of its own, but submitted to the irresponsible ukase of
+tailors and modistes, who are in alliance with enterprising manufacturers
+of novelties. In this higher civilization a costume which is artistic
+and becoming has no more chance of permanence than one which is ugly and
+inconvenient. It might be inferred that this higher civilization produces
+no better taste and discrimination, no more independent judgment, in
+dress than it does in literature. The vagaries in dress of the Western
+nations for a thousand years past, to go back no further, are certainly
+highly amusing, and would be humiliating to people who regarded taste and
+art as essentials of civilization. But when we speak of civilization, we
+cannot but notice that some of the great civilizations; the longest
+permanent and most notable for highest achievement in learning, science,
+art, or in the graces or comforts of life, the Egyptian, the Saracenic,
+the Chinese, were subject to no such vagaries in costume, but adhered to
+that which taste, climate, experience had determined to be the most
+useful and appropriate. And it is a singular comment upon our modern
+conceit that we make our own vagaries and changeableness, and not any
+fixed principles of art or of utility, the criterion of judgment, on
+other races and other times.
+
+The more important result of the study of past fashions, in engravings
+and paintings, remains to be spoken of. It is that in all the
+illustrations, from the simplicity of Athens, through the artificiality
+of Louis XIV and the monstrosities of Elizabeth, down to the undescribed
+modistic inventions of the first McKinley, there is discoverable a
+radical and primitive law of beauty. We acknowledge it among the Greeks,
+we encounter it in one age and another. I mean a style of dress that is
+artistic as well as picturesque, that satisfies our love of beauty, that
+accords with the grace of the perfect human figure, and that gives as
+perfect satisfaction to the cultivated taste as a drawing by Raphael.
+While all the other illustrations of the human ingenuity in making the
+human race appear fantastic or ridiculous amuse us or offend our taste,
+--except the tailor fashion-plates of the week that is now,--these few
+exceptions, classic or modern, give us permanent delight, and are
+recognized as following the eternal law of beauty and utility. And we
+know, notwithstanding the temporary triumph of bad taste and the public
+lack of any taste, that there is a standard, artistic and imperishable.
+
+The student of manners might find an interesting field in noting how, in
+our Occidental civilizations, fluctuations of opinions, of morals, and of
+literary style have been accompanied by more or less significant
+exhibitions of costumes. He will note in the Precieux of France and the
+Euphuist of England a corresponding effeminacy in dress; in the frank
+paganism of the French Revolution the affectation of Greek and Roman
+apparel, passing into the Directoire style in the Citizen and the
+Citizeness; in the Calvinistic cut of the Puritan of Geneva and of New
+England the grim severity of their theology and morals. These examples
+are interesting as showing an inclination to express an inner condition
+by the outward apparel, as the Quakers indicate an inward peace by an
+external drabness, and the American Indian a bellicose disposition by red
+and yellow paint; just as we express by red stripes our desire to kill
+men with artillery, or by yellow stripes to kill them with cavalry. It
+is not possible to say whether these external displays are relics of
+barbarism or are enduring necessities of human nature.
+
+The fickleness of men in costume in a manner burlesques their shifty and
+uncertain taste in literature. A book or a certain fashion in letters
+will have a run like a garment, and, like that, will pass away before it
+waxes old. It seems incredible, as we look back over the literary
+history of the past three centuries only, what prevailing styles and
+moods of expression, affectations, and prettinesses, each in turn, have
+pleased reasonably cultivated people. What tedious and vapid things they
+read and liked to read! Think of the French, who had once had a Villon,
+intoxicating themselves with somnolent draughts of Richardson. But,
+then, the French could match the paste euphuisms of Lyly with the novels
+of Scudery. Every modern literature has been subject to these epidemics
+and diseases. It is needless to dwell upon them in detail. Since the
+great diffusion of printing, these literary crazes have been more
+frequent and of shorter duration. We need go back no further than a
+generation to find abundant examples of eccentricities of style and
+expression, of crazes over some author or some book, as unaccountable on
+principles of art as many of the fashions in social life. --The more
+violent the attack, the sooner it is over. Readers of middle age can
+recall the furor over Tupper, the extravagant expectations as to the
+brilliant essayist Gilfillan, the soon-extinguished hopes of the poet
+Alexander Smith. For the moment the world waited in the belief of the
+rising of new stars, and as suddenly realized that it had been deceived.
+Sometimes we like ruggedness, and again we like things made easy. Within
+a few years a distinguished Scotch clergyman made a fortune by diluting a
+paragraph written by Saint Paul. It is in our memory how at one time all
+the boys tried to write like Macaulay, and then like Carlyle, and then
+like Ruskin, and we have lived to see the day when all the girls would
+like to write like Heine.
+
+In less than twenty years we have seen wonderful changes in public taste
+and in the efforts of writers to meet it or to create it. We saw the
+everlastingly revived conflict between realism and romanticism. We saw
+the realist run into the naturalist, the naturalist into the animalist,
+the psychologist into the sexualist, and the sudden reaction to romance,
+in the form of what is called the historic novel, the receipt for which
+can be prescribed by any competent pharmacist. The one essential in the
+ingredients is that the hero shall be mainly got out of one hole by
+dropping him into a deeper one, until--the proper serial length being
+attained--he is miraculously dropped out into daylight, and stands to
+receive the plaudits of a tenderhearted world, that is fond of nothing so
+much as of fighting.
+
+The extraordinary vogue of certain recent stories is not so much to be
+wondered at when we consider the millions that have been added to the
+readers of English during the past twenty-five years. The wonder is that
+a new book does not sell more largely, or it would be a wonder if the
+ability to buy kept pace with the ability to read, and if discrimination
+had accompanied the appetite for reading. The critics term these
+successes of some recent fictions "crazes," but they are really sustained
+by some desirable qualities--they are cleverly written, and they are for
+the moment undoubtedly entertaining. Some of them as undoubtedly appeal
+to innate vulgarity or to cultivated depravity. I will call no names,
+because that would be to indict the public taste. This recent phenomenon
+of sales of stories by the hundred thousand is not, however, wholly due
+to quality. Another element has come in since the publishers have
+awakened to the fact that literature can be treated like merchandise.
+To use their own phrase, they "handle" books as they would "handle"
+patent medicines, that is, the popular patent medicines that are desired
+because of the amount of alcohol they contain; indeed, they are sold
+along with dry-goods and fancy notions. I am not objecting to this great
+and wide distribution any more than I am to the haste of fruit-dealers to
+market their products before they decay. The wary critic will be very
+careful about dogmatizing over the nature and distribution of literary
+products. It is no certain sign that a book is good because it is
+popular, nor is it any more certain that it is good because it has a very
+limited sale. Yet we cannot help seeing that many of the books that are
+the subject of crazes utterly disappear in a very short time, while many
+others, approved by only a judicious few, continue in the market and
+slowly become standards, considered as good stock by the booksellers and
+continually in a limited demand.
+
+The English essayists have spent a good deal of time lately in discussing
+the question whether it is possible to tell a good contemporary book from
+a bad one. Their hesitation is justified by a study of English criticism
+of new books in the quarterly, monthly, and weekly periodicals from the
+latter part of the eighteenth century to the last quarter of the
+nineteenth; or, to name a definite period, from the verse of the Lake
+poets, from Shelley and Byron, down to Tennyson, there is scarcely a poet
+who has attained world-wide assent to his position in the first or second
+rank who was not at the hands of the reviewers the subject of mockery and
+bitter detraction. To be original in any degree was to be damned. And
+there is scarcely one who was at first ranked as a great light during
+this period who is now known out of the biographical dictionary. Nothing
+in modern literature is more amazing than the bulk of English criticism
+in the last three-quarters of a century, so far as it concerned
+individual writers, both in poetry and prose. The literary rancor shown
+rose to the dignity almost of theological vituperation.
+
+Is there any way to tell a good book from a bad one? Yes. As certainly
+as you can tell a good picture from a bad one, or a good egg from a bad
+one. Because there are hosts who do not discriminate as to the eggs or
+the butter they eat, it does not follow that a normal taste should not
+know the difference.
+
+Because there is a highly artistic nation that welcomes the flavor of
+garlic in everything, and another which claims to be the most civilized
+in the world that cannot tell coffee from chicory, or because the ancient
+Chinese love rancid sesame oil, or the Esquimaux like spoiled blubber and
+tainted fish, it does not follow that there is not in the world a
+wholesome taste for things natural and pure.
+
+It is clear that the critic of contemporary literature is quite as likely
+to be wrong as right. He is, for one thing, inevitably affected by the
+prevailing fashion of his little day. And, worse still, he is apt to
+make his own tastes and prejudices the standard of his judgment. His
+view is commonly provincial instead of cosmopolitan. In the English
+period just referred to it is easy to see that most of the critical
+opinion was determined by political or theological animosity and
+prejudice. The rule was for a Tory to hit a Whig or a Whig to hit a
+Tory, under whatever literary guise he appeared. If the new writer was
+not orthodox in the view of his political or theological critic, he was
+not to be tolerated as poet or historian, Dr. Johnson had said
+everything he could say against an author when he declared that he was a
+vile Whig. Macaulay, a Whig, always consulted his prejudices for his
+judgment, equally when he was reviewing Croker's Boswell or the
+impeachment of Warren Hastings. He hated Croker,--a hateful man, to be
+sure,--and when the latter published his edition of Boswell, Macaulay saw
+his opportunity, and exclaimed before he had looked at the book, as you
+will remember, "Now I will dust his jacket." The standard of criticism
+does not lie with the individual in literature any more than it does in
+different periods as to fashions and manners. The world is pretty well
+agreed, and always has been, as to the qualities that make a gentleman.
+And yet there was a time when the vilest and perhaps the most
+contemptible man who ever occupied the English throne,--and that is
+saying a great deal,--George IV, was universally called the "First
+Gentleman of Europe." The reproach might be somewhat lightened by the
+fact that George was a foreigner, but for the wider fact that no person
+of English stock has been on the throne since Saxon Harold, the chosen
+and imposed rulers of England having been French, Welsh, Scotch, and
+Dutch, many of them being guiltless of the English language, and many of
+them also of the English middle-class morality. The impartial old
+Wraxall, the memorialist of the times of George III, having described a
+noble as a gambler, a drunkard, a smuggler, an appropriator of public
+money, who always cheated his tradesmen, who was one and sometimes all of
+them together, and a profligate generally, commonly adds, "But he was a
+perfect gentleman." And yet there has always been a standard that
+excludes George IV from the rank of gentleman, as it excludes Tupper from
+the rank of poet.
+
+The standard of literary judgment, then, is not in the individual,--that
+is, in the taste and prejudice of the individual,--any more than it is in
+the immediate contemporary opinion, which is always in flux and reflux
+from one extreme to another; but it is in certain immutable principles
+and qualities which have been slowly evolved during the long historic
+periods of literary criticism. But how shall we ascertain what these
+principles are, so as to apply them to new circumstances and new
+creations, holding on to the essentials and disregarding contemporary
+tastes; prejudices, and appearances? We all admit that certain pieces of
+literature have become classic; by general consent there is no dispute
+about them. How they have become so we cannot exactly explain. Some say
+by a mysterious settling of universal opinion, the operation of which
+cannot be exactly defined. Others say that the highly developed critical
+judgment of a few persons, from time to time, has established forever
+what we agree to call masterpieces. But this discussion is immaterial,
+since these supreme examples of literary excellence exist in all kinds of
+composition,--poetry, fable, romance, ethical teaching, prophecy,
+interpretation, history, humor, satire, devotional flight into the
+spiritual and supernatural, everything in which the human mind has
+exercised itself,--from the days of the Egyptian moralist and the Old
+Testament annalist and poet down to our scientific age. These
+masterpieces exist from many periods and in many languages, and they all
+have qualities in common which have insured their persistence.
+To discover what these qualities are that have insured permanence and
+promise indefinite continuance is to have a means of judging with an
+approach to scientific accuracy our contemporary literature. There is no
+thing of beauty that does not conform to a law of order and beauty--poem,
+story, costume, picture, statue, all fall into an ascertainable law of
+art. Nothing of man's making is perfect, but any creation approximates
+perfection in the measure that it conforms to inevitable law.
+
+To ascertain this law, and apply it, in art or in literature, to the
+changing conditions of our progressive life, is the business of the
+artist. It is the business of the critic to mark how the performance
+conforms to or departs from the law evolved and transmitted in the long-
+experience of the race. True criticism, then, is not a matter of caprice
+or of individual liking or disliking, nor of conformity to a prevailing
+and generally temporary popular judgment. Individual judgment may be
+very interesting and have its value, depending upon the capacity of the
+judge. It was my good fortune once to fall in with a person who had been
+moved, by I know not what inspiration, to project himself out of his safe
+local conditions into France, Greece, Italy, Cairo, and Jerusalem. He
+assured me that he had seen nothing anywhere in the wide world of nature
+and art to compare with the beauty of Nebraska.
+
+What are the qualities common to all the masterpieces of literature, or,
+let us say, to those that have endured in spite of imperfections and
+local provincialisms?
+
+First of all I should name simplicity, which includes lucidity of
+expression, the clear thought in fitting, luminous words. And this is
+true when the thought is profound and the subject is as complex as life
+itself. This quality is strikingly exhibited for us in Jowett's
+translation of Plato--which is as modern in feeling and phrase as
+anything done in Boston--in the naif and direct Herodotus, and, above
+all, in the King James vernacular translation of the Bible, which is the
+great text-book of all modern literature.
+
+The second quality is knowledge of human nature. We can put up with the
+improbable in invention, because the improbable is always happening in
+life, but we cannot tolerate the so-called psychological juggling with
+the human mind, the perversion of the laws of the mind, the forcing of
+character to fit the eccentricities of plot. Whatever excursions the
+writer makes in fancy, we require fundamental consistency with human
+nature. And this is the reason why psychological studies of the
+abnormal, or biographies of criminal lunatics, are only interesting to
+pathologists and never become classics in literature.
+
+A third quality common to all masterpieces is what we call charm, a
+matter more or less of style, and which may be defined as the agreeable
+personality of the writer. This is indispensable. It is this
+personality which gives the final value to every work of art as well as
+of literature. It is not enough to copy nature or to copy, even
+accurately, the incidents of life. Only by digestion and transmutation
+through personality does any work attain the dignity of art. The great
+works of architecture, even, which are somewhat determined by
+mathematical rule, owe their charm to the personal genius of their
+creators. For this reason our imitations of Greek architecture are
+commonly failures. To speak technically, the masterpiece of literature
+is characterized by the same knowledge of proportion and perspective as
+the masterpiece in art.
+
+If there is a standard of literary excellence, as there is a law of
+beauty--and it seems to me that to doubt this in the intellectual world
+is to doubt the prevalence of order that exists in the natural--it is
+certainly possible to ascertain whether a new production conforms, and
+how far it conforms, to the universally accepted canons of art. To work
+by this rule in literary criticism is to substitute something definite
+for the individual tastes, moods, and local bias of the critic. It is
+true that the vast body of that which we read is ephemeral, and justifies
+its existence by its obvious use for information, recreation, and
+entertainment. But to permit the impression to prevail that an
+unenlightened popular preference for a book, however many may hold it,
+is to be taken as a measure of its excellence, is like claiming that a
+debased Austrian coin, because it circulates, is as good as a gold stater
+of Alexander. The case is infinitely worse than this; for a slovenly
+literature, unrebuked and uncorrected, begets slovenly thought and
+debases our entire intellectual life.
+
+It should be remembered, however, that the creative faculty in man has
+not ceased, nor has puny man drawn all there is to be drawn out of the
+eternal wisdom. We are probably only in the beginning of our evolution,
+and something new may always be expected, that is, new and fresh
+applications of universal law. The critic of literature needs to be in
+an expectant and receptive frame of mind. Many critics approach a book
+with hostile intent, and seem to fancy that their business is to look for
+what is bad in it, and not for what is good. It seems to me that the
+first duty of the critic is to try to understand the author, to give him
+a fair chance by coming to his perusal with an open mind. Whatever book
+you read, or sermon or lecture you hear, give yourself for the time
+absolutely to its influence. This is just to the author, fair to the
+public, and, above all, valuable to the intellectual sanity of the critic
+himself. It is a very bad thing for the memory and the judgment to get
+into a habit of reading carelessly or listening with distracted
+attention. I know of nothing so harmful to the strength of the mind as
+this habit. There is a valuable mental training in closely following a
+discourse that is valueless in itself. After the reader has unreservedly
+surrendered himself to the influence of the book, and let his mind
+settle, as we say, and resume its own judgment, he is in a position to
+look at it objectively and to compare it with other facts of life and of
+literature dispassionately. He can then compare it as to form,
+substance, tone, with the enduring literature that has come down to us
+from all the ages. It is a phenomenon known to all of us that we may for
+the moment be carried away by a book which upon cool reflection we find
+is false in ethics and weak in construction. We find this because we
+have standards outside ourselves.
+
+I am not concerned to define here what is meant by literature. A great
+mass of it has been accumulated in the progress of mankind, and,
+fortunately for different wants and temperaments, it is as varied as the
+various minds that produced it. The main thing to be considered is that
+this great stream of thought is the highest achievement and the most
+valuable possession of mankind. It is not only that literature is the
+source of inspiration to youth and the solace of age, but it is what a
+national language is to a nation, the highest expression of its being.
+Whatever we acquire of science, of art, in discovery, in the application
+of natural laws in industries, is an enlargement of our horizon, and a
+contribution to the highest needs of man, his intellectual life. The
+controversy between the claims of the practical life and the intellectual
+is as idle as the so-called conflict between science and religion. And
+the highest and final expression of this life of man, his thought, his
+emotion, his feeling, his aspiration, whatever you choose to call it, is
+in the enduring literature he creates. He certainly misses half his
+opportunity on this planet who considers only the physical or what is
+called the practical. He is a man only half developed. I can conceive
+no more dreary existence than that of a man who is past the period of
+business activity, and who cannot, for his entertainment, his happiness,
+draw upon the great reservoir of literature. For what did I come into
+this world if I am to be like a stake planted in a fence, and not like a
+tree visited by all the winds of heaven and the birds of the air?
+
+Those who concern themselves with the printed matter in books and
+periodicals are often in despair over the volume of it, and their actual
+inability to keep up with current literature. They need not worry. If
+all that appears in books, under the pressure of publishers and the
+ambition of experimenters in writing, were uniformly excellent, no reader
+would be under any more obligation to read it than he is to see every
+individual flower and blossoming shrub. Specimens of the varieties would
+suffice. But a vast proportion of it is the product of immature minds,
+and of a yearning for experience rather than a knowledge of life. There
+is no more obligation on the part of the person who would be well
+informed and cultivated to read all this than there is to read all the
+colored incidents, personal gossip, accidents, and crimes repeated daily,
+with sameness of effect, in the newspapers, some of the most widely
+circulated of which are a composite of the police gazette and the comic
+almanac. A great deal of the reading done is mere contagion, one form or
+another of communicated grippe, and it is consoling and even surprising
+to know that if you escape the run of it for a season, you have lost
+nothing appreciable. Some people, it has been often said, make it a rule
+never to read a book until it is from one to five years old, By this
+simple device they escape the necessity of reading most of them, but this
+is only a part of their gain. Considering the fact that the world is
+full of books of the highest value for cultivation, entertainment, and
+information, which the utmost leisure we can spare from other pressing
+avocations does not suffice to give us knowledge of, it does seem to be
+little less than a moral and intellectual sin to flounder about blindly
+in the flood of new publications. I am speaking, of course, of the
+general mass of readers, and not of the specialists who must follow their
+subjects with ceaseless inquisition. But for most of us who belong to
+the still comparatively few who, really read books, the main object of
+life is not to keep up with the printing-press, any more than it is the
+main object of sensible people to follow all the extremes and whims of
+fashion in dress. When a fashion in literature has passed, we are
+surprised that it should ever have seemed worth the trouble of studying
+or imitating. When the special craze has passed, we notice another
+thing, and that is that the author, not being of the first rank or of the
+second, has generally contributed to the world all that he has to give in
+one book, and our time has been wasted on his other books; and also that
+in a special kind of writing in a given period--let us say, for example,
+the historico-romantic--we perceive that it all has a common character,
+is constructed on the same lines of adventure and with a prevailing type
+of hero and heroine, according to the pattern set by the first one or two
+stories of the sort which became popular, and we see its more or less
+mechanical construction, and how easily it degenerates into commercial
+book-making. Now while some of this writing has an individual flavor
+that makes it entertaining and profitable in this way, we may be excused
+from attempting to follow it all merely because it happens to be talked
+about for the moment, and generally talked about in a very
+undiscriminating manner. We need not in any company be ashamed if we
+have not read it all, especially if we are ashamed that, considering the
+time at our disposal, we have not made the acquaintance of the great and
+small masterpieces of literature. It is said that the fashion of this
+world passeth away, and so does the mere fashion in literature, the
+fashion that does not follow the eternal law of beauty and symmetry, and
+contribute to the intellectual and spiritual part of man. Otherwise it
+is only a waiting in a material existence, like the lovers, in the words
+of the Arabian story-teller, "till there came to them the Destroyer of
+Delights and the Sunderer of Companies, he who layeth waste the palaces
+and peopleth the tombs."
+
+Without special anxiety, then, to keep pace with all the ephemeral in
+literature, lest we should miss for the moment something that is
+permanent, we can rest content in the vast accumulation of the tried and
+genuine that the ages have given us. Anything that really belongs to
+literature today we shall certainly find awaiting us tomorrow.
+
+The better part of the life of man is in and by the imagination. This is
+not generally believed, because it is not generally believed that the
+chief end of man is the accumulation of intellectual and spiritual
+material. Hence it is that what is called a practical education is set
+above the mere enlargement and enrichment of the mind; and the possession
+of the material is valued, and the intellectual life is undervalued. But
+it should be remembered that the best preparation for a practical and
+useful life is in the high development of the powers of the mind, and
+that, commonly, by a culture that is not considered practical. The
+notable fact about the group of great parliamentary orators in the days
+of George III is the exhibition of their intellectual resources in the
+entire world of letters, the classics, and ancient and modern history.
+Yet all of them owed their development to a strictly classical training
+in the schools. And most of them had not only the gift of the
+imagination necessary to great eloquence, but also were so mentally
+disciplined by the classics that they handled the practical questions
+upon which they legislated with clearness and precision. The great
+masters of finance were the classically trained orators William Pitt and
+Charles James Fox.
+
+In fine, to return to our knowledge of the short life of fashions that
+are for the moment striking, why should we waste precious time in chasing
+meteoric appearances, when we can be warmed and invigorated in the
+sunshine of the great literatures?
+
+
+
+
+
+End of Project Gutenberg Etext Fashions in Literature, by C. D. Warner
+
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+The Project Gutenberg Etext of Fashions in Literature, by Warner
+#13 in our series by Charles Dudley Warner
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+Title: Fashions in Literature
+
+Author: Charles Dudley Warner
+
+Release Date: March, 2002 [Etext #3109]
+[Yes, we are about one year ahead of schedule]
+[The actual date this file first posted = 01/10/01]
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+Edition: 11
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+The Project Gutenberg Etext of Fashions in Literature, by Warner
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+
+
+FASHIONS IN LITERATURE
+
+By Charles Dudley Warner
+
+
+
+INTRODUCTION
+
+Thirty years ago and more those who read and valued good books in this
+country made the acquaintance of Mr. Warner, and since the publication of
+"My Summer In a Garden" no work of his has needed any other introduction
+than the presence of his name on the title-page; and now that reputation
+has mellowed into memory, even the word of interpretation seems
+superfluous. Mr. Warner wrote out of a clear, as well as a full mind,
+and lucidity of style was part of that harmonious charm of sincerity and
+urbanity which made him one of the most intelligible and companionable of
+our writers.
+
+It is a pleasure, however, to recall him as, not long ago, we saw him
+move and heard him speak in the ripeness of years which brought him the
+full flavor of maturity without any loss of freshness from his humor or
+serenity from his thought. He shared with Lowell, Longfellow, and Curtis
+a harmony of nature and art, a unity of ideal and achievement, which make
+him a welcome figure, not only for what he said, but for what he was; one
+of those friends whose coming is hailed with joy because they seem always
+at their best, and minister to rather than draw upon our own capital of
+moral vitality.
+
+Mr. Warner was the most undogmatic of idealists, the most winning of
+teachers. He had always some thing to say to the ethical sense, a word
+for the conscience; but his approach was always through the mind, and his
+enforcement of the moral lesson was by suggestion rather than by
+commandment. There was nothing ascetic about him, no easy solution of
+the difficulties of life by ignoring or evading them; nor, on the other
+hand, was there any confusion of moral standards as the result of a
+confusion of ideas touching the nature and functions of art. He saw
+clearly, he felt deeply, and he thought straight; hence the rectitude of
+his mind, the sanity of his spirit, the justice of his dealings with the
+things which make for life and art. He used the essay as Addison used
+it, not for sermonic effect, but as a form of art which permitted a man
+to deal with serious things in a spirit of gayety, and with that
+lightness of touch which conveys influence without employing force. He
+was as deeply enamored as George William Curtis with the highest ideals
+of life for America, and, like Curtis, his expression caught the grace
+and distinction of those ideals.
+
+It is a pleasure to hear his voice once more, because its very accents
+suggest the most interesting, high-minded, and captivating ideals of
+living; he brings with him that air of fine breeding which is diffused by
+the men who, in mind as in manners, have been, in a distinctive sense,
+gentlemen; who have lived so constantly and habitually on intimate terms
+with the highest things in thought and character that the tone of this
+really best society has become theirs. Among men of talent there are
+plebeians as well as patricians; even genius, which is never vulgar, is
+sometimes unable to hide the vulgarity of the aims and ideas which it
+clothes with beauty without concealing their essential nature. Mr.
+Warner was a patrician; the most democratic of men, he was one of the
+most fastidious in his intellectual companionships and affiliations.
+The subjects about which he speaks with his oldtime directness and charm
+in this volume make us aware of the serious temper of his mind, of his
+deep interest in the life of his time and people, and of the easy and
+natural grace with which he insisted on facing the fact and bringing it
+to the test of the highest standards. In his discussion of "Fashions in
+Literature" he deftly brings before us the significance of literature and
+the signs which it always wears, while he seems bent upon considering
+some interesting aspects of contemporary writing.
+
+And how admirably he has described his own work in his definition of
+qualities which are common to all literature of a high order: simplicity,
+knowledge of human nature, agreeable personality. It would be impossible
+in briefer or more comprehensive phrase to sum up and express the secret
+of his influence and of the pleasure he gives us. It is to suggest this
+application of his words to himself that this preparatory comment is
+written.
+
+When "My Summer In a Garden" appeared, it won a host of friends who did
+not stop to ask whether it was a piece of excellent journalism or a bit
+of real literature. It was so natural, so informal, so intimate that
+readers accepted it as matter of course, as they accepted the blooming of
+flowers and the flitting of birds. It was simply a report of certain
+things which had happened out of doors, made by an observing neighbor,
+whose talk seemed to be of a piece with the diffused fragrance and light
+and life of the old-fashioned garden. This easy approach, along natural
+lines of interest, by quietly putting himself on common ground with his
+reader, Mr. Warner never abandoned; he was so delightful a companion that
+until he ceased to walk beside them, many of his friends of the mind did
+not realize how much he had enriched them by the way. This charming
+simplicity, which made it possible for him to put himself on intimate
+terms with his readers, was the result of his sincerity, his clearness of
+thought, and his ripe culture: that knowledge of the best which rids a
+man forever of faith in devices, dexterities, obscurities, and all other
+substitutes for the lucid realities of thinking and of character.
+
+To his love of reality and his sincere interest in men, Mr. Warner added
+natural shrewdness and long observation of the psychology of men and
+women under the stress and strain of experience. His knowledge of human
+nature did not lessen his geniality, but it kept the edge of his mind
+keen, and gave his work the variety not only of humor but of satire. He
+cared deeply for people, but they did not impose on him; he loved his
+country with a passion which was the more genuine because it was exacting
+and, at times, sharply critical. There runs through all his work, as a
+critic of manners and men, as well as of art, a wisdom of life born of
+wide and keen observation; put not into the form of aphorisms, but of
+shrewd comment, of keen criticism, of nice discrimination between the
+manifold shadings of insincerity, of insight into the action and reaction
+of conditions, surroundings, social and ethical aims on men and women.
+The stories written in his later years are full of the evidences of a
+knowledge of human nature which was singularly trustworthy and
+penetrating.
+
+When all has been said, however, it remains true of him, as of so many of
+the writers whom we read and love and love as we read, that the secret of
+his charm lay in an agreeable personality. At the end of the analysis,
+if the work is worth while, there is always a man, and the man is the
+explanation of the work. This is pre-eminently true of those writers
+whose charm lies less in distinctively intellectual qualities than in
+temperament, atmosphere, humor-writers of the quality of Steele,
+Goldsmith, Lamb, Irving. It is not only, therefore, a pleasure to recall
+Mr. Warner; it is a necessity if one would discover the secret of his
+charm, the source of his authority.
+
+He was a New Englander by birth and by long residence, but he was also a
+man of the world in the true sense of the phrase; one whose ethical
+judgment had been broadened without being lowered; who had learned that
+truth, though often strenuously enforced, is never so convincing as when
+stated in terms of beauty; and to whom it had been revealed that to live
+naturally, sanely, and productively one must live humanly, with due
+regard to the earthly as well as to heavenly, with ease as well as
+earnestness of spirit, through play no less than through work, in the
+large resources of art, society, and humor, as well as with the ancient
+and well-tested rectitudes of the fathers.
+
+The harmonious play of his whole nature, the breadth of his interests and
+the sanity of his spirit made Mr. Warner a delightful companion, and kept
+to the very end the freshness of his mind and the spontaneity of his
+humor; life never lost its savor for him, nor did his style part with its
+diffused but thoroughly individual humor. This latest collection of his
+papers, dealing with a wide range of subjects from the "Education of the
+Negro" to "Literature and the Stage," with characteristic comments on
+"Truthfulness" and "The Pursuit of Happiness," shows him at the end of
+his long and tireless career as a writer still deeply interested in
+contemporary events, responsive to the appeal of the questions of the
+hour, and sensitive to all things which affected the dignity and
+authority of literature. In his interests, his bearing, his relations to
+the public life of the country, no less than in his work, he held fast to
+the best traditions of literature, and he has taken his place among the
+representative American men of Letters.
+
+HAMILTON W. MABIE.
+
+
+
+
+
+
+FASHIONS IN LITERATURE
+
+If you examine a collection of prints of costumes of different
+generations, you are commonly amused by the ludicrous appearance of most
+of them, especially of those that are not familiar to you in your own
+decade. They are not only inappropriate and inconvenient to your eye,
+but they offend your taste. You cannot believe that they were ever
+thought beautiful and becoming. If your memory does not fail you,
+however, and you retain a little honesty of mind, you can recall the fact
+that a costume which seems to you ridiculous today had your warm approval
+ten years ago. You wonder, indeed, how you could ever have tolerated a
+costume which has not one graceful line, and has no more relation to the
+human figure than Mambrino's helmet had to a crown of glory. You cannot
+imagine how you ever approved the vast balloon skirt that gave your
+sweetheart the appearance of the great bell of Moscow, or that you
+yourself could have been complacent in a coat the tails of which reached
+your heels, and the buttons of which, a rudimentary survival, were
+between your shoulder-blades--you who are now devoted to a female figure
+that resembles an old-fashioned churn surmounted by an isosceles
+triangle.
+
+These vagaries of taste, which disfigure or destroy correct proportions
+or hide deformities, are nowhere more evident than in the illustrations
+of works of fiction. The artist who collaborates with the contemporary
+novelist has a hard fate. If he is faithful to the fashions of the day,
+he earns the repute of artistic depravity in the eyes of the next
+generation. The novel may become a classic, because it represents human
+nature, or even the whimsicalities of a period; but the illustrations of
+the artist only provoke a smile, because he has represented merely the
+unessential and the fleeting. The interest in his work is
+archaeological, not artistic. The genius of the great portrait-painter
+may to some extent overcome the disadvantages of contemporary costume,
+but if the costume of his period is hideous and lacks the essential lines
+of beauty, his work is liable to need the apology of quaintness. The
+Greek artist and the Mediaeval painter, when the costumes were really
+picturesque and made us forget the lack of simplicity in a noble
+sumptuousness, had never this posthumous difficulty to contend with.
+
+In the examination of costumes of different races and different ages, we
+are also struck by the fact that with primitive or isolated peoples
+costumes vary little from age to age, and fashion and the fashions are
+unrecognized, and a habit of dress which is dictated by climate, or has
+been proved to be comfortable, is adhered to from one generation to
+another; while nations that we call highly civilized, meaning commonly
+not only Occidental peoples, but peoples called progressive, are subject
+to the most frequent and violent changes of fashions, not in generations
+only, but in decades and years of a generation, as if the mass had no
+mind or taste of its own, but submitted to the irresponsible ukase of
+tailors and modistes, who are in alliance with enterprising manufacturers
+of novelties. In this higher civilization a costume which is artistic
+and becoming has no more chance of permanence than one which is ugly and
+inconvenient. It might be inferred that this higher civilization produces
+no better taste and discrimination, no more independent judgment, in
+dress than it does in literature. The vagaries in dress of the Western
+nations for a thousand years past, to go back no further, are certainly
+highly amusing, and would be humiliating to people who regarded taste and
+art as essentials of civilization. But when we speak of civilization, we
+cannot but notice that some of the great civilizations; the longest
+permanent and most notable for highest achievement in learning, science,
+art, or in the graces or comforts of life, the Egyptian, the Saracenic,
+the Chinese, were subject to no such vagaries in costume, but adhered to
+that which taste, climate, experience had determined to be the most
+useful and appropriate. And it is a singular comment upon our modern
+conceit that we make our own vagaries and changeableness, and not any
+fixed principles of art or of utility, the criterion of judgment, on
+other races and other times.
+
+The more important result of the study of past fashions, in engravings
+and paintings, remains to be spoken of. It is that in all the
+illustrations, from the simplicity of Athens, through the artificiality
+of Louis XIV and the monstrosities of Elizabeth, down to the undescribed
+modistic inventions of the first McKinley, there is discoverable a
+radical and primitive law of beauty. We acknowledge it among the Greeks,
+we encounter it in one age and another. I mean a style of dress that is
+artistic as well as picturesque, that satisfies our love of beauty, that
+accords with the grace of the perfect human figure, and that gives as
+perfect satisfaction to the cultivated taste as a drawing by Raphael.
+While all the other illustrations of the human ingenuity in making the
+human race appear fantastic or ridiculous amuse us or offend our taste,
+--except the tailor fashion-plates of the week that is now,--these few
+exceptions, classic or modern, give us permanent delight, and are
+recognized as following the eternal law of beauty and utility. And we
+know, notwithstanding the temporary triumph of bad taste and the public
+lack of any taste, that there is a standard, artistic and imperishable.
+
+The student of manners might find an interesting field in noting how, in
+our Occidental civilizations, fluctuations of opinions, of morals, and of
+literary style have been accompanied by more or less significant
+exhibitions of costumes. He will note in the Precieux of France and the
+Euphuist of England a corresponding effeminacy in dress; in the frank
+paganism of the French Revolution the affectation of Greek and Roman
+apparel, passing into the Directoire style in the Citizen and the
+Citizeness; in the Calvinistic cut of the Puritan of Geneva and of New
+England the grim severity of their theology and morals. These examples
+are interesting as showing an inclination to express an inner condition
+by the outward apparel, as the Quakers indicate an inward peace by an
+external drabness, and the American Indian a bellicose disposition by red
+and yellow paint; just as we express by red stripes our desire to kill
+men with artillery, or by yellow stripes to kill them with cavalry. It
+is not possible to say whether these external displays are relics of
+barbarism or are enduring necessities of human nature.
+
+The fickleness of men in costume in a manner burlesques their shifty and
+uncertain taste in literature. A book or a certain fashion in letters
+will have a run like a garment, and, like that, will pass away before it
+waxes old. It seems incredible, as we look back over the literary
+history of the past three centuries only, what prevailing styles and
+moods of expression, affectations, and prettinesses, each in turn, have
+pleased reasonably cultivated people. What tedious and vapid things they
+read and liked to read! Think of the French, who had once had a Villon,
+intoxicating themselves with somnolent draughts of Richardson. But,
+then, the French could match the paste euphuisms of Lyly with the novels
+of Scudery. Every modern literature has been subject to these epidemics
+and diseases. It is needless to dwell upon them in detail. Since the
+great diffusion of printing, these literary crazes have been more
+frequent and of shorter duration. We need go back no further than a
+generation to find abundant examples of eccentricities of style and
+expression, of crazes over some author or some book, as unaccountable on
+principles of art as many of the fashions in social life.--The more
+violent the attack, the sooner it is over. Readers of middle age can
+recall the furor over Tupper, the extravagant expectations as to the
+brilliant essayist Gilfillan, the soon-extinguished hopes of the poet
+Alexander Smith. For the moment the world waited in the belief of the
+rising of new stars, and as suddenly realized that it had been deceived.
+Sometimes we like ruggedness, and again we like things made easy. Within
+a few years a distinguished Scotch clergyman made a fortune by diluting a
+paragraph written by Saint Paul. It is in our memory how at one time all
+the boys tried to write like Macaulay, and then like Carlyle, and then
+like Ruskin, and we have lived to see the day when all the girls would
+like to write like Heine.
+
+In less than twenty years we have seen wonderful changes in public taste
+and in the efforts of writers to meet it or to create it. We saw the
+everlastingly revived conflict between realism and romanticism. We saw
+the realist run into the naturalist, the naturalist into the animalist,
+the psychologist into the sexualist, and the sudden reaction to romance,
+in the form of what is called the historic novel, the receipt for which
+can be prescribed by any competent pharmacist. The one essential in the
+ingredients is that the hero shall be mainly got out of one hole by
+dropping him into a deeper one, until--the proper serial length being
+attained--he is miraculously dropped out into daylight, and stands to
+receive the plaudits of a tenderhearted world, that is fond of nothing so
+much as of fighting.
+
+The extraordinary vogue of certain recent stories is not so much to be
+wondered at when we consider the millions that have been added to the
+readers of English during the past twenty-five years. The wonder is that
+a new book does not sell more largely, or it would be a wonder if the
+ability to buy kept pace with the ability to read, and if discrimination
+had accompanied the appetite for reading. The critics term these
+successes of some recent fictions "crazes," but they are really sustained
+by some desirable qualities--they are cleverly written, and they are for
+the moment undoubtedly entertaining. Some of them as undoubtedly appeal
+to innate vulgarity or to cultivated depravity. I will call no names,
+because that would be to indict the public taste. This recent phenomenon
+of sales of stories by the hundred thousand is not, however, wholly due
+to quality. Another element has come in since the publishers have
+awakened to the fact that literature can be treated like merchandise.
+To use their own phrase, they "handle" books as they would "handle"
+patent medicines, that is, the popular patent medicines that are desired
+because of the amount of alcohol they contain; indeed, they are sold
+along with dry-goods and fancy notions. I am not objecting to this great
+and wide distribution any more than I am to the haste of fruit-dealers to
+market their products before they decay. The wary critic will be very
+careful about dogmatizing over the nature and distribution of literary
+products. It is no certain sign that a book is good because it is
+popular, nor is it any more certain that it is good because it has a very
+limited sale. Yet we cannot help seeing that many of the books that are
+the subject of crazes utterly disappear in a very short time, while many
+others, approved by only a judicious few, continue in the market and
+slowly become standards, considered as good stock by the booksellers and
+continually in a limited demand.
+
+The English essayists have spent a good deal of time lately in discussing
+the question whether it is possible to tell a good contemporary book from
+a bad one. Their hesitation is justified by a study of English criticism
+of new books in the quarterly, monthly, and weekly periodicals from the
+latter part of the eighteenth century to the last quarter of the
+nineteenth; or, to name a definite period, from the verse of the Lake
+poets, from Shelley and Byron, down to Tennyson, there is scarcely a poet
+who has attained world-wide assent to his position in the first or second
+rank who was not at the hands of the reviewers the subject of mockery and
+bitter detraction. To be original in any degree was to be damned. And
+there is scarcely one who was at first ranked as a great light during
+this period who is now known out of the biographical dictionary. Nothing
+in modern literature is more amazing than the bulk of English criticism
+in the last three-quarters of a century, so far as it concerned
+individual writers, both in poetry and prose. The literary rancor shown
+rose to the dignity almost of theological vituperation.
+
+Is there any way to tell a good book from a bad one? Yes. As certainly
+as you can tell a good picture from a bad one, or a good egg from a bad
+one. Because there are hosts who do not discriminate as to the eggs or
+the butter they eat, it does not follow that a normal taste should not
+know the difference.
+
+Because there is a highly artistic nation that welcomes the flavor of
+garlic in everything, and another which claims to be the most civilized
+in the world that cannot tell coffee from chicory, or because the ancient
+Chinese love rancid sesame oil, or the Esquimaux like spoiled blubber and
+tainted fish, it does not follow that there is not in the world a
+wholesome taste for things natural and pure.
+
+It is clear that the critic of contemporary literature is quite as likely
+to be wrong as right. He is, for one thing, inevitably affected by the
+prevailing fashion of his little day. And, worse still, he is apt to
+make his own tastes and prejudices the standard of his judgment. His
+view is commonly provincial instead of cosmopolitan. In the English
+period just referred to it is easy to see that most of the critical
+opinion was determined by political or theological animosity and
+prejudice. The rule was for a Tory to hit a Whig or a Whig to hit a
+Tory, under whatever literary guise he appeared. If the new writer was
+not orthodox in the view of his political or theological critic, he was
+not to be tolerated as poet or historian, Dr. Johnson had said
+everything he could say against an author when he declared that he was a
+vile Whig. Macaulay, a Whig, always consulted his prejudices for his
+judgment, equally when he was reviewing Croker's Boswell or the
+impeachment of Warren Hastings. He hated Croker,--a hateful man, to be
+sure,--and when the latter published his edition of Boswell, Macaulay saw
+his opportunity, and exclaimed before he had looked at the book, as you
+will remember, "Now I will dust his jacket." The standard of criticism
+does not lie with the individual in literature any more than it does in
+different periods as to fashions and manners. The world is pretty well
+agreed, and always has been, as to the qualities that make a gentleman.
+And yet there was a time when the vilest and perhaps the most
+contemptible man who ever occupied the English throne,--and that is
+saying a great deal,--George IV, was universally called the "First
+Gentleman of Europe." The reproach might be somewhat lightened by the
+fact that George was a foreigner, but for the wider fact that no person
+of English stock has been on the throne since Saxon Harold, the chosen
+and imposed rulers of England having been French, Welsh, Scotch, and
+Dutch, many of them being guiltless of the English language, and many of
+them also of the English middle-class morality. The impartial old
+Wraxall, the memorialist of the times of George III, having described a
+noble as a gambler, a drunkard, a smuggler, an appropriator of public
+money, who always cheated his tradesmen, who was one and sometimes all of
+them together, and a profligate generally, commonly adds, "But he was a
+perfect gentleman." And yet there has always been a standard that
+excludes George IV from the rank of gentleman, as it excludes Tupper from
+the rank of poet.
+
+The standard of literary judgment, then, is not in the individual,--that
+is, in the taste and prejudice of the individual,--any more than it is in
+the immediate contemporary opinion, which is always in flux and reflux
+from one extreme to another; but it is in certain immutable principles
+and qualities which have been slowly evolved during the long historic
+periods of literary criticism. But how shall we ascertain what these
+principles are, so as to apply them to new circumstances and new
+creations, holding on to the essentials and disregarding contemporary
+tastes; prejudices, and appearances? We all admit that certain pieces of
+literature have become classic; by general consent there is no dispute
+about them. How they have become so we cannot exactly explain. Some say
+by a mysterious settling of universal opinion, the operation of which
+cannot be exactly defined. Others say that the highly developed critical
+judgment of a few persons, from time to time, has established forever
+what we agree to call masterpieces. But this discussion is immaterial,
+since these supreme examples of literary excellence exist in all kinds of
+composition,--poetry, fable, romance, ethical teaching, prophecy,
+interpretation, history, humor, satire, devotional flight into the
+spiritual and supernatural, everything in which the human mind has
+exercised itself,--from the days of the Egyptian moralist and the Old
+Testament annalist and poet down to our scientific age. These
+masterpieces exist from many periods and in many languages, and they all
+have qualities in common which have insured their persistence.
+To discover what these qualities are that have insured permanence and
+promise indefinite continuance is to have a means of judging with an
+approach to scientific accuracy our contemporary literature. There is no
+thing of beauty that does not conform to a law of order and beauty--poem,
+story, costume, picture, statue, all fall into an ascertainable law of
+art. Nothing of man's making is perfect, but any creation approximates
+perfection in the measure that it conforms to inevitable law.
+
+To ascertain this law, and apply it, in art or in literature, to the
+changing conditions of our progressive life, is the business of the
+artist. It is the business of the critic to mark how the performance
+conforms to or departs from the law evolved and transmitted in the long-
+experience of the race. True criticism, then, is not a matter of caprice
+or of individual liking or disliking, nor of conformity to a prevailing
+and generally temporary popular judgment. Individual judgment may be
+very interesting and have its value, depending upon the capacity of the
+judge. It was my good fortune once to fall in with a person who had been
+moved, by I know not what inspiration, to project himself out of his safe
+local conditions into France, Greece, Italy, Cairo, and Jerusalem. He
+assured me that he had seen nothing anywhere in the wide world of nature
+and art to compare with the beauty of Nebraska.
+
+What are the qualities common to all the masterpieces of literature, or,
+let us say, to those that have endured in spite of imperfections and
+local provincialisms?
+
+First of all I should name simplicity, which includes lucidity of
+expression, the clear thought in fitting, luminous words. And this is
+true when the thought is profound and the subject is as complex as life
+itself. This quality is strikingly exhibited for us in Jowett's
+translation of Plato--which is as modern in feeling and phrase as
+anything done in Boston--in the naif and direct Herodotus, and, above
+all, in the King James vernacular translation of the Bible, which is the
+great text-book of all modern literature.
+
+The second quality is knowledge of human nature. We can put up with the
+improbable in invention, because the improbable is always happening in
+life, but we cannot tolerate the so-called psychological juggling with
+the human mind, the perversion of the laws of the mind, the forcing of
+character to fit the eccentricities of plot. Whatever excursions the
+writer makes in fancy, we require fundamental consistency with human
+nature. And this is the reason why psychological studies of the
+abnormal, or biographies of criminal lunatics, are only interesting to
+pathologists and never become classics in literature.
+
+A third quality common to all masterpieces is what we call charm, a
+matter more or less of style, and which may be defined as the agreeable
+personality of the writer. This is indispensable. It is this
+personality which gives the final value to every work of art as well as
+of literature. It is not enough to copy nature or to copy, even
+accurately, the incidents of life. Only by digestion and transmutation
+through personality does any work attain the dignity of art. The great
+works of architecture, even, which are somewhat determined by
+mathematical rule, owe their charm to the personal genius of their
+creators. For this reason our imitations of Greek architecture are
+commonly failures. To speak technically, the masterpiece of literature
+is characterized by the same knowledge of proportion and perspective as
+the masterpiece in art.
+
+If there is a standard of literary excellence, as there is a law of
+beauty--and it seems to me that to doubt this in the intellectual world
+is to doubt the prevalence of order that exists in the natural--it is
+certainly possible to ascertain whether a new production conforms, and
+how far it conforms, to the universally accepted canons of art. To work
+by this rule in literary criticism is to substitute something definite
+for the individual tastes, moods, and local bias of the critic. It is
+true that the vast body of that which we read is ephemeral, and justifies
+its existence by its obvious use for information, recreation, and
+entertainment. But to permit the impression to prevail that an
+unenlightened popular preference for a book, however many may hold it,
+is to be taken as a measure of its excellence, is like claiming that a
+debased Austrian coin, because it circulates, is as good as a gold stater
+of Alexander. The case is infinitely worse than this; for a slovenly
+literature, unrebuked and uncorrected, begets slovenly thought and
+debases our entire intellectual life.
+
+It should be remembered, however, that the creative faculty in man has
+not ceased, nor has puny man drawn all there is to be drawn out of the
+eternal wisdom. We are probably only in the beginning of our evolution,
+and something new may always be expected, that is, new and fresh
+applications of universal law. The critic of literature needs to be in
+an expectant and receptive frame of mind. Many critics approach a book
+with hostile intent, and seem to fancy that their business is to look for
+what is bad in it, and not for what is good. It seems to me that the
+first duty of the critic is to try to understand the author, to give him
+a fair chance by coming to his perusal with an open mind. Whatever book
+you read, or sermon or lecture you hear, give yourself for the time
+absolutely to its influence. This is just to the author, fair to the
+public, and, above all, valuable to the intellectual sanity of the critic
+himself. It is a very bad thing for the memory and the judgment to get
+into a habit of reading carelessly or listening with distracted
+attention. I know of nothing so harmful to the strength of the mind as
+this habit. There is a valuable mental training in closely following a
+discourse that is valueless in itself. After the reader has unreservedly
+surrendered himself to the influence of the book, and let his mind
+settle, as we say, and resume its own judgment, he is in a position to
+look at it objectively and to compare it with other facts of life and of
+literature dispassionately. He can then compare it as to form,
+substance, tone, with the enduring literature that has come down to us
+from all the ages. It is a phenomenon known to all of us that we may for
+the moment be carried away by a book which upon cool reflection we find
+is false in ethics and weak in construction. We find this because we
+have standards outside ourselves.
+
+I am not concerned to define here what is meant by literature. A great
+mass of it has been accumulated in the progress of mankind, and,
+fortunately for different wants and temperaments, it is as varied as the
+various minds that produced it. The main thing to be considered is that
+this great stream of thought is the highest achievement and the most
+valuable possession of mankind. It is not only that literature is the
+source of inspiration to youth and the solace of age, but it is what a
+national language is to a nation, the highest expression of its being.
+Whatever we acquire of science, of art, in discovery, in the application
+of natural laws in industries, is an enlargement of our horizon, and a
+contribution to the highest needs of man, his intellectual life. The
+controversy between the claims of the practical life and the intellectual
+is as idle as the so-called conflict between science and religion. And
+the highest and final expression of this life of man, his thought, his
+emotion, his feeling, his aspiration, whatever you choose to call it, is
+in the enduring literature he creates. He certainly misses half his
+opportunity on this planet who considers only the physical or what is
+called the practical. He is a man only half developed. I can conceive
+no more dreary existence than that of a man who is past the period of
+business activity, and who cannot, for his entertainment, his happiness,
+draw upon the great reservoir of literature. For what did I come into
+this world if I am to be like a stake planted in a fence, and not like a
+tree visited by all the winds of heaven and the birds of the air?
+
+Those who concern themselves with the printed matter in books and
+periodicals are often in despair over the volume of it, and their actual
+inability to keep up with current literature. They need not worry. If
+all that appears in books, under the pressure of publishers and the
+ambition of experimenters in writing, were uniformly excellent, no reader
+would be under any more obligation to read it than he is to see every
+individual flower and blossoming shrub. Specimens of the varieties would
+suffice. But a vast proportion of it is the product of immature minds,
+and of a yearning for experience rather than a knowledge of life. There
+is no more obligation on the part of the person who would be well
+informed and cultivated to read all this than there is to read all the
+colored incidents, personal gossip, accidents, and crimes repeated daily,
+with sameness of effect, in the newspapers, some of the most widely
+circulated of which are a composite of the police gazette and the comic
+almanac. A great deal of the reading done is mere contagion, one form or
+another of communicated grippe, and it is consoling and even surprising
+to know that if you escape the run of it for a season, you have lost
+nothing appreciable. Some people, it has been often said, make it a rule
+never to read a book until it is from one to five years old, By this
+simple device they escape the necessity of reading most of them, but this
+is only a part of their gain. Considering the fact that the world is
+full of books of the highest value for cultivation, entertainment, and
+information, which the utmost leisure we can spare from other pressing
+avocations does not suffice to give us knowledge of, it does seem to be
+little less than a moral and intellectual sin to flounder about blindly
+in the flood of new publications. I am speaking, of course, of the
+general mass of readers, and not of the specialists who must follow their
+subjects with ceaseless inquisition. But for most of us who belong to
+the still comparatively few who, really read books, the main object of
+life is not to keep up with the printing-press, any more than it is the
+main object of sensible people to follow all the extremes and whims of
+fashion in dress. When a fashion in literature has passed, we are
+surprised that it should ever have seemed worth the trouble of studying
+or imitating. When the special craze has passed, we notice another
+thing, and that is that the author, not being of the first rank or of the
+second, has generally contributed to the world all that he has to give in
+one book, and our time has been wasted on his other books; and also that
+in a special kind of writing in a given period--let us say, for example,
+the historico-romantic--we perceive that it all has a common character,
+is constructed on the same lines of adventure and with a prevailing type
+of hero and heroine, according to the pattern set by the first one or two
+stories of the sort which became popular, and we see its more or less
+mechanical construction, and how easily it degenerates into commercial
+book-making. Now while some of this writing has an individual flavor
+that makes it entertaining and profitable in this way, we may be excused
+from attempting to follow it all merely because it happens to be talked
+about for the moment, and generally talked about in a very
+undiscriminating manner. We need not in any company be ashamed if we
+have not read it all, especially if we are ashamed that, considering the
+time at our disposal, we have not made the acquaintance of the great and
+small masterpieces of literature. It is said that the fashion of this
+world passeth away, and so does the mere fashion in literature, the
+fashion that does not follow the eternal law of beauty and symmetry, and
+contribute to the intellectual and spiritual part of man. Otherwise it
+is only a waiting in a material existence, like the lovers, in the words
+of the Arabian story-teller, "till there came to them the Destroyer of
+Delights and the Sunderer of Companies, he who layeth waste the palaces
+and peopleth the tombs."
+
+Without special anxiety, then, to keep pace with all the ephemeral in
+literature, lest we should miss for the moment something that is
+permanent, we can rest content in the vast accumulation of the tried and
+genuine that the ages have given us. Anything that really belongs to
+literature today we shall certainly find awaiting us tomorrow.
+
+The better part of the life of man is in and by the imagination. This is
+not generally believed, because it is not generally believed that the
+chief end of man is the accumulation of intellectual and spiritual
+material. Hence it is that what is called a practical education is set
+above the mere enlargement and enrichment of the mind; and the possession
+of the material is valued, and the intellectual life is undervalued. But
+it should be remembered that the best preparation for a practical and
+useful life is in the high development of the powers of the mind, and
+that, commonly, by a culture that is not considered practical. The
+notable fact about the group of great parliamentary orators in the days
+of George III is the exhibition of their intellectual resources in the
+entire world of letters, the classics, and ancient and modern history.
+Yet all of them owed their development to a strictly classical training
+in the schools. And most of them had not only the gift of the
+imagination necessary to great eloquence, but also were so mentally
+disciplined by the classics that they handled the practical questions
+upon which they legislated with clearness and precision. The great
+masters of finance were the classically trained orators William Pitt and
+Charles James Fox.
+
+In fine, to return to our knowledge of the short life of fashions that
+are for the moment striking, why should we waste precious time in chasing
+meteoric appearances, when we can be warmed and invigorated in the
+sunshine of the great literatures?
+
+
+
+
+End of this Project Gutenberg Etext of Fashions in Literature
+by Charles Dudley Warner
+
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