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diff --git a/30983.txt b/30983.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..60f619c --- /dev/null +++ b/30983.txt @@ -0,0 +1,2061 @@ +Project Gutenberg's Knots, Bends, Splices, by J. Netherclift Jutsum + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Knots, Bends, Splices + With tables of strengths of ropes, etc. and wire rigging + +Author: J. Netherclift Jutsum + +Release Date: January 16, 2010 [EBook #30983] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK KNOTS, BENDS, SPLICES *** + + + + +Produced by Al Haines + + + + + + + + +[Illustration: Cover] + + + +KNOTS, + +BENDS, SPLICES, + + +WITH TABLES OF STRENGTHS OF ROPES, ETC., + +AND WIRE RIGGING. + + + +BY CAPTAIN JUTSUM, CARDIFF. + + +_Revised and Enlarged._ + + + +[COPYRIGHT. + + + +GLASGOW: + +The Nautical Press, + +JAMES BROWN & SON, + +NAUTICAL AND ENGINEERING PUBLISHERS. + +1914 + + + + +INTRODUCTION. + +The object of this little work is to present in a compact form and +systematic order a complete list of all the most useful and important +workings connected with Cordage, and a lucid explanation of their +various formations. + +The explanations of some of the elementary knots have been gone into +with what a practical seaman of even short experience may consider +almost unnecessary minuteness, but the aim throughout has been to +render the work of value to those who approach the subject for the +first time. + +To attain this end, diagrams are introduced at every stage, and if +followed closely step by step, in conjunction with the text referring +to them, the learner should have no difficulty in following their +construction. + +At the same time he must remember that proficiency in what is really +skilled workmanship, amounting almost to an art, can only be gained by +much practice and perseverance, and should gladly avail himself of any +advice or help he may be able to obtain from his more experienced +ship-mates. + +J. NETHERCLIFT JUTSUM. + + + + +{v} + +CONTENTS. + + PAGE + +The Construction of Ropes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 + +Common Whipping, . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3 + +Knots, etc., formed by a Single Rope's-end-- + Overhand Knot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 + Figure of 8 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 + Simple Clinch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 + Running or Inside Clinch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 + Outside Clinch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 + Buntline Hitch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7 + Bowline . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 + Running Bowline . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9 + Half Hitch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10 + Round Turn and Two Half Hitches . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11 + Clove Hitch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12 + Rolling Hitch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13 + Timber Hitch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14 + Fisherman's Bend . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 + Topsail Halliard Bend . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16 + Stun'sail Bend . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 + Blackwall Hitch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 17 + Midshipman's Hitch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18 + Double Blackwall Hitch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 19 + +Knots, etc., made on the Bight of a Rope-- + A Bowline on the Bight . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 20 + Marlinespike Hitch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 + Sheepshank . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 + Catspaw . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 + +Knots, Bends, etc., for Uniting Ropes-- + Reef Knot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 + Common or Sheet Bend . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24 + Single Carrick Bend . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 26 + Double Carrick Bend . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 + Diamond Knot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 + +Knots formed on Ropes by their own Strands-- + Wall Knot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30-33 + Double Wall Knot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 + Crown Knot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33 + Manrope Knot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 + Stopper Knot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34 + Single Matthew Walker . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 + Double Matthew Walker . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36 + Another form of Diamond Knot (Single) . . . . . . . . . . . . 38 + Double Diamond Knot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 39 + Shroud Knot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40 + Spritsail Sheet Knot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41 + +Splices-- + Eye Splice . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43 + Short Splice . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44 + Cut Splice . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 + Long Splice . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45 + Grommet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46 + +Wire Splicing-- + Eye Splice . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47 + Long Splice . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48 + +Purchases-- + Single Whip . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 + Double Whip . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49 + Runner . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 + Gun Tackle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50 + Handy Billy or Jigger . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51 + Watch or Luff Tackle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 51 + Double Luff . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 + Three-fold Purchase . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52 + Four-fold Purchase . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 + Single Spanish Burton . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 + Double Spanish Burton (two forms) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 + Spanish Windlass . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55 + +Miscellaneous Odds and Ends-- + Palm and Needle Whipping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56 + West Country Whipping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56 + American Whipping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57 + To Point a Rope End . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57 + Turk's Head . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58-60 + Mousing a Hook . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60 + Securing Lead Line to Lead . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61 + Fitting a Flag . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61 + Cringles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61-64 + Lengthening the Rope of a Sail . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64 + Jury Knot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65-66 + Sling for a Barrel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67-68 + Chain Knot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68-69 + Double Chain . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69-70 + Twist or Plain Knot . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71 + +Wire Rope Splicing, etc.-- + How to Handle Wire Rope . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72 + Set of Wire Rope Splicing Tools . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74 + Directions for Splicing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76-78 + Splicing Thimbles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78-82 + +Tables showing the Respective Weights and Strengths of Various + Cordage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83-86 + + + + +{1} + +THE CONSTRUCTION OF ROPES. + +Rope, the term being used in its widest construction, is made from +almost every pliable material, but is generally composed of hemp, +manila, coir, cotton, steel, iron, or copper wire. + +For the present we will confine ourselves to those having their origin +in the vegetable kingdom, and more especially to those made from hemp +and manila. + +These are divided into three classes:-- + +(1). +A Hawser-laid Rope+, which is composed of three strands laid up +generally right-handed (that is, the direction taken by the strands in +forming the rope runs always from left to right) (Fig. 1.) + +(2). +A Shroud-laid Rope+, also laid up right-handed, but consisting +of four strands (Fig. 2) with a heart in the centre. + +(3). +A Cable-laid Rope+, which is composed of three right-handed +hawser-laid ropes laid up together left-handed, so that it may be said +to consist of nine strands (Fig. 3), or it may be formed by three +left-handed ropes laid up right-handed (Fig. 4). + +{2} + +[Illustration: Fig. 1. Fig. 2. Fig. 3.] + +In Fig. 4 we show a more complete analysis of its construction (in this +case a right-handed cable-laid rope). + +[Illustration: Fig. 4.] + +{3} + +First we see the cable _e_ formed by the three ropes _d_, _f_, and _g_; +whilst the rope _g_ is dissected to show the strands forming it, _c_, +_h_, _j_; and in the strand _h_ we see _b_, the yarn composing the +strand, and _a_ a yarn teased out to show the original fibre. + +The end of a rope must always be secured in some way, or it is evident +from its construction that it will on the slightest usage become frayed +out. The commonest method is by placing on an ordinary whipping, which +is done as follows:--First lay the end of a length of twine along the +end of the rope, and then commencing at the part furthest from the +rope's end take a half dozen or more turns around both the rope and +twine end (Fig. 5). Then lay the twine in the form of a loop along the +rope and over the turns already taken, as in Fig. 6. To finish off +take that portion of the loop designated _a_, and continue taking turns +tightly round the rope and part _b_ of the twine until the loop is +nearly all used up; pull through the remainder snugly by part _c_, and +cut off short when, no end of twine will be visible as in Fig. 7. + +[Illustration: Fig. 5. Fig. 6. Fig. 7.] + +{4} + +Considering that we now have at our disposal a small sized rope with +the end whipped, we will at once proceed to the formation of the most +elementary knots and hitches, namely, those formed by a single rope's +end. + +Fig. 8 shows a common loop, by which most of the following knots, etc., +are commenced. Note exactly how the loop lies, and let us letter its +parts clearly for future reference. The part of rope extending from 1 +to 2 is known as the standing part which we will call _a_, the portion +included between 2 and 3 following round the loop by _y_ and _z_ is +termed the bight which we will call _b_, and from 3 to 4 is known as +the end _e_. + +[Illustration: Fig. 8.] + +Then starting in each case from the position shown in Fig. 8 we make +the following knots, etc:-- + +{5} + +(1). +An Overhand Knot+.--Place _e_ up through bight _b_, and draw +taut (Fig. 9). + +[Illustration: Fig. 9.] + +(2). +A Figure of Eight Knot+.--Back _e_ round behind _a_, bring over +part _z_ and dip down through bight _b_ and haul taut (Fig. 10). + +[Illustration: Fig. 10.] + +(3). +A Simple Clinch+ is formed by closing up the initial loop to +form a small ring and securing by a seizing--a small lashing at _d_ +(Fig. 11). + +{6} + +[Illustration: Fig. 11] + +One of the preceding knots is generally put in the end of running gear +to prevent it from coming unrove from the fair-leads or blocks. + +(4). +A Running or Inside Clinch+ is the foregoing, formed by the end +of a rope on its own standing part, and is often used for securing +buntlines to the foot of a sail (Fig. 12). + +[Illustration: Fig. 12.] + +{7} + +(5.) +An Outside Clinch+, as may be inferred from its name, is formed +in a similar manner, but the end _c_ is brought round on top, that is, +away from the bight (Fig. 13). It is used in cases where it is +essential that the end should not be in a position to jam, but always +ready for slipping at a moment's notice, as in securing cable ends, etc. + +[Illustration: Fig. 13.] + +(6). +A Buntline Hitch+ (an alternative method of securing buntlines +to a sail) is commenced as in making an outside clinch, but instead of +putting on a seizing, take a longer end _c_, pass it over _y_, bring up +through bight _b_, and tuck the end again over part _y_ and through the +last loop formed, so that the end _c_ lies close to the commencement of +part _z_ (Fig. 14). + +{8} + +[Illustration: Fig. 14.] + +(7). +A Bowline+.--Reverting to our original loop (Fig. 8), first +taking part _z_ in the right hand with _y_ in the left, throw a loop +over _c_, the end, as in Fig. 15. + +[Illustration: Fig. 15.] + +{9} + +Secondly, lead _c_ round behind part _a_ and pass it down through the +last made loop, as indicated by the dotted line, and haul taut as in +Fig. 16. + +[Illustration: Fig. 16.] + +(8). +A Running Bowline+.--Form a loop with a long end _c_ lying +underneath the standing part _a_ (Fig. 17). + +[Illustration: Fig. 17.] + +{10} + +Now bring end _c_ over part _y_ and with it form the bowline knot on +part _z_ just as in the previous case we formed it on its own part, +when it will appear as in Fig. 18. It is used whenever a running noose +is required. + +[Illustration: Fig. 18.] + +(9). The formation of a half hitch (Fig. 19), and two half hitches +(Fig. 20) is sufficiently indicated by those diagrams. + +[Illustration: Fig. 19.] + +{11} + +[Illustration: Fig. 20.] + +The commonest method of making a rope's end fast to a bollard, etc., is +by taking a round turn and two half hitches, and stopping the end back +for further security (Fig. 21). + +[Illustration: Fig. 21.] + +{12} + +(10). +A Clove Hitch+ is really a jamming form of two half hitches, +and is principally used when a small rope has to be secured to a larger +one and the end still kept free to pass along for further purposes, as +in securing ratlines to the shrouds. Its formation is shown in three +successive stages (Figs. 22, 23, 24). + +[Illustration: Fig. 22. Fig. 23. Fig. 24.] + +{13} + +(11). +A Rolling Hitch+ is commenced and finished like a clove hitch, +but as will be seen from the three diagrams (Figs. 25, 26, 27) +illustrating its construction, there is an intermediate round turn +between the first and last hitches. It is principally used for +securing the tail of a handy billy or snatch block to a larger rope, or +when hanging off a rope with a stopper. + +[Illustration: Fig. 25. Fig. 26. Fig. 27.] + +{14} + +Note that the round turn in (Fig. 26) is taken round both the standing +part _a_ and the larger rope. The great value of this hitch is its +non-liability to slip in the direction _B_ (Fig. 27). If, however, +owing to an extremely severe strain or other causes the hitch is +inclined to slip, the end _e_ should be backed round part _d_ of the +first rope, that is, twisted around it in long lays in the opposite +direction to that in which the hitch was formed, and the end secured by +a stop (Fig. 28). + +[Illustration: Fig. 28.] + +(12). A Timber Hitch is a useful way of securing a rope quickly to a +plank, but when there is to be a long and continuous strain, or when it +is required to keep the end of a piece of timber pointed steadily in +one direction, it should be supplemented with a half hitch (Figs. 29, +30). + +{15} + +[Illustration: Fig. 29. Fig. 30.] + +The timber hitch itself consists simply of a half hitch taken with a +rather long end, which is used up by twisting it back around its own +part of the hitch. In Fig. 29 the hitch is purposely left very loose +so that its formation may be the more easily seen. + +(13) +A Fisherman's Bend+ is formed by taking two round turns around +the object to which the rope is to be secured, and then backing the end +round in the form of a half hitch under both the standing part and +second round turn. The end may be further secured by taking a half +hitch {16} around its own part or by stopping it to it (Figs. 31, 32), +the dotted line showing the next direction the end _c_ must take. + +[Illustration: Fig. 31. Fig. 32.] + +It is used when securing a hauling line to the ring of the kedge, or +for bending a rope to a bucket, etc., and is often called a bucket +hitch. + +(14). +A Topsail Halyard Bend+.--This bend is never seen in deep water +ships, but is sometimes used on board yachts. It is commenced in a +similar manner to a fisherman's bend, but three round turns are first +taken around the spar, the end being backed around the standing part +_a_ and then led under all three turns as in Fig. 33, and then again +backed over the last two round turns and under the first, as shown in +Fig. 34. + +{17} + +[Illustration: Fig. 33. Fig. 34.] + +(14). +A Stun'sail Halyard Bend+ is simply a Fisherman's bend with the +end backed again over the last round turn and under the first (Fig. 35). + +[Illustration: Fig. 35.] + +(15). +A Blackwall Hitch+ is a quick way of temporarily securing a +rope to a hook. As will be seen from the illustration (Fig. 36) it +consists of a half hitch, the standing part _a_ as soon as it receives +the strain jamming {18} the end part _c_. It holds much more firmly +than would be imagined at first sight. By taking another round turn at +_b_ before passing the end _c_ under _a_, it will hold more securely. + +[Illustration: Fig. 36.] + +(17). +A Midshipman's Hitch+ is sometimes used instead of a Blackwall +hitch, and will hold better if the rope is at all greasy. It is made +by first forming a Blackwall hitch and then taking the underneath part +and placing it over the bill of the hook (Fig. 37). + +[Illustration: Fig. 37.] + +{19} + +(18). +A Double Blackwall Hitch+ is made by taking the bight of the +rope and placing it across the neck of the strop of the block, crossing +it behind, then placing the under part over the hook and crossing the +upper part on top of it (Fig. 38). It holds better than either of the +two preceding hitches. + +[Illustration: Fig. 38.] + + + + +{20} + +KNOTS, Etc., MADE ON THE BIGHT OF A ROPE, THAT IS, WITHOUT UTILISING +THE ENDS. + +(1). +A Bowline on the Bight+--Using both parts of the rope together, +commence as in making an ordinary bowline (Fig. 39). To finish off, +open out bight _c_, and taking it in the direction indicated by the +dotted line, pass the whole knot through it and haul taut, when it will +appear as in Fig. 40. + +[Illustration: Fig. 39. Fig. 40.] + +{21} + +(2). +A Marline-Spike Hitch+ is used for getting a purchase with a +marline-spike, capstan bar, etc., when putting on a seizing or lashing. +By Fig. 41 it will be seen to consist of the standing part picked +through a loop laid over it, so that the spike lies under the standing +part and over the sides of the loop. + +[Illustration: Fig. 41.] + +(3). +A Sheep Shank+ is used for shortening a rope. Gather up the +amount desired in the form of Fig. 42. + +[Illustration: Fig. 42.] + +Then with parts _a_ and _b_ form a half hitch round the two parts of +the bight as in Fig. 43. + +[Illustration: Fig. 43.] + +{22} + +To render it still more dependable, the bight _a_ and _b_ may be seized +or toggled to the standing parts as in Figs. 44 and 45. + +[Illustration: Fig. 44. Fig. 45.] + +(4). +A Catspaw+ is formed in a rope to make a temporary loop for +hooking on the block of a tackle. First throw back a bight as in Fig. +46. + +[Illustration: Fig. 46.] + +{23} + +Then taking hold of _a_ and _b_ in either hand twist them up as in Fig. +47; bring together the two eyes _a_ and _b_ and hook in the tackle. + +[Illustration: Fig. 47.] + + + + +{24} + +KNOTS, BENDS, AND HITCHES FOR UNITING ROPES. + +(1). +A Reef Knot+.--The simplest of all knots, and is always used +when a common tie is required. Its formation may be easily traced in +Figs. 48, 49, 50. Having constructed the knot as far as Fig. 48, be +sure part _a_ is kept in front of part _b_ as here shown, and the end +_c_ led in according to the direction of the dotted line. + +[Illustration: Fig. 48. Fig. 49. Fig. 50.] + +(2). +A Common Bend or Sheet Bend+.--In making a bend the ends of the +two ropes are not used simultaneously as in forming a reef knot, but an +eye or loop is first formed in the end of one of the ropes as in Fig. +51, and the other rope's end is then rove through it in various ways +according to the bend desired. + +{25} + +[Illustration: Fig. 51.] + +To form a Sheet Bend, pass the second rope's end underneath the eye at +point _a_ and bring up through the loop, then form with it a half hitch +round _c_ and _b_ (Fig. 52). + +[Illustration: Fig. 52.] + +It will hold still better and is less likely to jamb if the end _c_ is +passed round again as in Fig. 53. + +[Illustration: Fig. 53.] + +{26} + +(3). For bending two hauling lines together use a +Carrick Bend+. +First form with hawser No. 1 a loop as in Fig. 54. + +[Illustration: Fig. 54.] + +Pass the second hawser under the first at _a_, bring up through the eye +_b_, back it over the cross at _c_, and bring up again towards you +through the eye _b_, and then stop the ends of each hawser to their own +respective parts (Fig. 55). + +[Illustration: Fig. 55.] + +{27} + +(4). _A Double Carrick Bend_ is formed in precisely a similar manner, +but a complete round turn is taken around the cross of the first hawser +at _c_, and then led up again through the eye _b_ and finished off as +before (Fig. 56). + +[Illustration: Fig. 56.] + +(5). +A Diamond Knot+ formed by the two ends of a rope is really a +fancy knot. It is often made with Hambro' line in forming lanyards for +marline-spikes, knives, etc. It is a pretty knot and very easily made. + +First lay one of the cords in a loop shaped as in Fig. 57. + +{28} + +Notice carefully how this loop is lettered, and then, taking up the +second cord, lay it under the loop at _a_, straight along also under +the loop at _b_, now bring it over the first cord at _c_ and under it +at _d_ and over it at _e_, then dip it under its own part now lying +between _a_ and _b_, and lead it over the first cord at _f_. + +[Illustration: Fig. 57.] + +The knot, still in an unfinished state, will now appear as in Fig. 58. + +[Illustration: Fig. 58.] + +{29} + +Now lead the ends in the direction indicated by the dotted lines +(taking care beforehand that you have them sufficiently long for the +purpose), and bring them both up through the opening _a_. Bring the +two standing parts _b_ and _c_ together, and gradually render all parts +in turn to work up the knot as tight as possible, when it will appear +as in Fig. 59. + +[Illustration: Fig. 59.] + + + + +{30} + +KNOTS FORMED ON ROPES BY THEIR OWN STRANDS. + +Although our next series of knots are generally known as "fancy knots" +they are by no means merely ornamental, many of them playing important +parts in the standing rigging of a ship. + +(1). +To Form a Wall Knot+.--First unlay the rope so that the strands +appear as in Fig. 60. + +[Illustration: Fig. 60.] + +{31} + +Holding the rope with the left hand, with the right lead strand _a_ in +the direction indicated by the dotted line, viz., under strand _b_ and +up between strands _b_ and _c_ (Fig. 61). + +[Illustration: Fig. 61.] + +Then with strand _b_ form a similar loop, enclosing strands _a_ and +_c_, and bringing the end of strand _b_ up between _a_ and _d_ (Fig. +62). + +[Illustration: Fig. 62.] + +{32} + +Now with strand _c_ form a similar loop, enclosing strands _b_ and _a_ +by leading the end of strand _c_ up through the loop _e_ in strand _a_ +(Fig. 63). + +[Illustration: Fig. 63.] + +Finally, work all parts well taut, whip the ends of the strands +together and cut off short (Fig. 64). + +[Illustration: Fig. 64.] + +{33} + +(2). +A Double Wall Knot+ is formed by allowing each strand to again +follow its lead as given in a single wall knot, opening out the first +loops again with a pricker sufficiently for the purpose. The three +strands are as before brought up in the centre and cut off short after +whipping them together. This knot is also known as a stopper knot. + +(3). +A Crown Knot+ is formed by interlacing the strands in a similar +manner to a wall knot, but the strands are successively led _over_ each +other instead of under. Its construction will be easily followed in +Fig. 65. + +[Illustration: Fig. 65.] + +Double crowning is done by following round each strand again alongside +its first lead. + + +Our next two knots are but combinations of the wall and crown. + +{34} + +(4). +A Manrope Knot+ is made by first forming a wall and then +crowning it (Fig. 66.) + +[Illustration: Fig. 66.] + +Then follow round the wall again, and lastly, follow round the crown, +when the finished knot will appear as in Fig. 67. + +[Illustration: Fig. 67.] + +A knot formed by making a crown first and then a wall, and afterwards +following round the crown and wall again is another form of the Stopper +Knot. It is very similar in appearance when finished to a Manrope Knot. + +{35} + +(5). +A Single Matthew Walker+.--To make this knot commence similarly +to a wall, but pass the first strand _a_ under both _b_ and _c_, as in +Fig. 68. + +[Illustration: Fig. 68.] + +Then pass _b_ under both strands _c_ and _a_, and bring up through the +loop first formed by _a_ (Fig. 69). + +[Illustration: Fig. 69.] + +{36} + +Similarly pass _c_ under _a_ and _b_, and bring up through the loop +first formed by _b_ (Fig. 70). + +[Illustration: Fig. 70.] + +(6). +A Double Matthew Walker+ will be easily learnt if you notice the +difference between a single Matthew Walker and a Wall Knot. + +In the Wall Knot you will have noticed that each strand is simply +interlaced with the strand immediately on its right coming up through +the loop formed by this second strand. + +In the single Matthew Walker each strand interlaces the two strands to +its right, coming up through the loop of the third strand. + +{37} + +Another evolution in the same order brings us to the double Matthew +Walker. It is formed, as will be seen by carefully following diagram +71, by making each strand contain in its own loop, the other two +strands, and _its own_ end, that is, each strand leads up through its +own bight after interlacing the other two. + +[Illustration: Fig. 71. Fig. 72.] + +When worked taut and finished off, it will appear as in Fig. 72. + +{38} + +(7). +A Single Diamond Knot+.--This is another method of forming the +knot shown in Fig. 59, which in that case was formed by the two ends of +the same rope. + +To form it on a rope by its own strands, unlay the rope to the place +where it is desired to form the knot, and as after the knot is made the +strands will have to be laid up again, try to preserve the original lay +in the strands as much as possible. Now bring each of the three +strands down alongside the standing part of the rope, thus forming +three bights, and hold them thus with the left hand. Take the first +strand _a_ (Fig. 73) and, putting it over the next, _b_, bring it up +through the bight of the third strand _c_. + +[Illustration: Fig. 73.] + +{39} + +Take the end of the second strand over the third and up the bight of +the first. The last strand is brought through over the first and up +through the bight of the second. Haul taut, and lay the rope up again. +Fig. 74 shows the loops in their places with the ends through them +before they are hauled taut. Fig. 75 gives the knot finished. + +[Illustration: Fig. 74. Fig. 75.] + +For a double diamond we first make a single diamond, the ends are then +made to follow the lead of the single knot through two single bights, +the ends coming out on top of the knot. The last strand passes through +two double bights. The ends are then hauled taut and laid up as before +(Fig. 76). + +{40} + +[Illustration: Fig. 76.] + +(8). +A Shroud Knot+ is a method of joining two ropes. Each is unlaid +the necessary length, and they are then brought close together. A Wall +Knot is formed on each rope with the strands of the other (Fig. 77). + +The completed knot is shown in Fig. 78, but to make a neat job the ends +should be marled and served as in Fig. 79. + +[Illustration: Fig. 77. Fig. 78. Fig. 79.] + +{41} + +(9). +A Spritsail Sheet Knot+.--Unlay both ends of the rope and bring +the two standing parts of the rope together as in Fig. 80. + +[Illustration: Fig. 80.] + +Grasping both parts of the rope at _a_, with the six strands form a +Wall Knot, that is, by passing 1 under 2, 2 under 3, 3 under 4, 4 under +5, 5 under 6, and 6 under the loop formed by 1. + +This would appear too confusing if shown in a diagram, but the knot is +very easily made in practice. + +Now lay any opposite two of the strands across the top {42} in an +_opposite direction_, and crown by passing the other four, each in +turn, alternately over and under these two. + +Each of the six strands will then come out leading in a downward +direction alongside the strands forming the first walling. + +Now follow round the walling again, when the strands will come through +in an upward direction, each alongside a strand of the first crowning. + +Follow through the crowning once more, and cut off the ends short, when +a handsome and useful Stopper Knot will result, as shown in Fig. 81. + +[Illustration: Fig. 81.] + + + + +{43} + +SPLICES. + +(1). +An Eye Splice+ is formed by unlaying the end of a rope for a +short distance, and then, after closing up the end, to form an eye of +the desired size. Lay the three strands upon the standing part, now +tuck the middle strand through the strand of the standing part of the +rope next to it (against the lay of the rope), then pass the strand on +the left over the strand under which No. 1 strand is tucked, and tuck +it under the next, and lastly, put the remaining strand through the +third strand on the other side of the rope (Fig. 82.) + +[Illustration: Fig. 82.] + +{44} + +Now tuck each strand again alternately over a strand and under a strand +of the rope, and then taper off by halving the strands before tucking +the third time, and again halve them before the fourth tuck. + +If the strands are tucked with the lay of the rope it is termed a +Sailmaker's Splice. + +(2). +A Short Splice+ is used to join two ropes when it is not +required to pass through a block. Unlay the two ropes the required +distance, and clutch them together as in Fig. 83, that is, so that the +strands of one rope go alternately between the strands of the other. + +[Illustration: Fig. 83.] + +Then tuck the strands of rope a into the rope _b_ in a similar manner +to that described in an eye splice, and similarly tuck the strands of +_b_ into _a_ (Figs. 84 and 85). + +[Illustration: Fig. 84. Fig. 85.] + +{45} + +(3). +A Cut Splice+ is made by laying two ropes in the position +indicated in Fig. 86. + +[Illustration: Fig. 86.] + +Leaving the ropes between _a a_ to form an oblong loop, tuck the +strands of one rope into the other as done in the eye splice. Splices +are often wormed, parcelled, and served. Fig. 87 shows the cut splice +after this treatment. + +A log-line splice is a cut splice, but instead of allowing the loop to +appear, the two lines are twisted together. + +[Illustration: Fig. 87.] + +(4). +A Long Splice+ is one of the most useful of splices, as it +permits the rope to run through a block just the same as an unspliced +rope. + +Unlay the ends of two ropes to a distance about four times the length +used in a short splice, and then clutch them together as if about to +commence a short splice. Now unlay one strand for a considerable +distance and fill {46} up the gap thus caused by twisting in the strand +opposite to it of the other rope. Then do the same with two more +strands. Let the remaining two strands stay as they were first placed. +The ropes will now appear as in Fig. 88. + +[Illustration: Fig. 88.] + +To finish off, tuck the ends as in a short splice, but _with_ the lay +of the rope, that is, so that the tuck will continually take place +around the same strand, and taper off gradually by reducing the yarns +in the strand. + +(5). +To Make a Grommet+, cut a strand about three and a half times +the length of the grommet required. Unlay the rope carefully and keep +the turns of the strand in. Close up the strand in the form of a ring +(Fig. 89), and then pass the ends round and round in their original lay +until all the intervals are filled up (Fig. 90), and then finish off +the two ends as in a long splice (Fig. 91). + +[Illustration: Fig. 89. Fig. 90. Fig. 91.] + + + + +{47} + +WIRE SPLICING. + +In splicing wire, great care should be taken to prevent kinks getting +in the rope or strands. + +With steel wire, always before working it, put a stop on at the place +to which you intend to unlay, and also put a good whipping of twine at +the end of each strand. + +Steel wire is six-stranded right-handed, and has a heart of hemp. +Flexible wire has a heart of hemp in each strand. + +Crucible wire is made in the same manner, except that the strands are +wire throughout. + +Crucible wire is used for standing rigging and flexible wire for +purchases, etc. + +In splicing wire all tucks are made with the lay of the rope. + +In making an eye splice the rope is handled better if hung up in a +convenient position so that when standing up the eye will be at about +the level of the chest of the person working. + +A long tapering steel marline-spike is required, and after placing it +under a strand do not withdraw it until the tuck is made and all the +slack of the strand drawn through. + +{48} + +There are several methods in vogue for tucking the strand, but the +following is as good as any:--Tuck the first strand under two strands +and all the rest under one strand respectively. Tuck whole again, and +this time each strand under one strand, then halve the strands and tuck +again. + +To make a neat splice do not haul the part of the rope that has not +been unlaid too close to the neck of the splice, and in tucking the +strands never take a short nip but take long lays. + +In unlaying for a long splice, always unlay two strands simultaneously, +to keep the rope in its original lay. For a fair-sized rope unlay +about 9 ft. of each end. + +Proceed as in rope splicing, and after the three pairs of strands are +in their places, single them, and continue to unlay and lay-in until +the six meeting places of the strands are equi-distant. + +To finish off the ends properly can only be learnt by observation and +actual practice. By using two marline-spikes, the hempen heart is +removed and the ends of the wire strands forced into the place it +occupied, making a very neat job when finished. + +Wire splices should be parcelled with oily canvas and served with +Hambro' line. + + + + +{49} + +PURCHASES. + +(1) +Single Whip+.--A rope rove through a single block fixed in any +position. No power is gained (Fig. 92). + +[Illustration: Fig. 92.] + +(2). +Double Whip+.--A rope rove through two single blocks--upper +block a tail block, lower one a movable hook block. Power +gained--double (Fig. 93). + +[Illustration: Fig. 93.] + +{50} + +(3). +A Runner+ adds an additional power to the purchase it is used +with (Fig. 94). + +[Illustration: Fig. 94.] + +(4). +Gun Tackle+.--single blocks. Power gained--twice or thrice, +according to which is the movable block (Fig. 95). + +[Illustration: Fig. 95.] + +{51} + +(5). +Handy Billy or Jigger+.--A small tackle for general use; a +double block with a tail and single block with hook (Fig. 96). + +[Illustration: Fig. 96.] + +(6). +Watch Tackle or Luff Tackle+.--Double hook block and single hook +block (Fig. 97). + +[Illustration: Fig. 97.] + +{52} + +(7). +Double Luff+.--Two double blocks (Fig. 98). + +[Illustration: Fig. 98.] + +(8). +Three-Fold Purchase+.--Two three-fold blocks. Power gained--six +or seven times (Fig. 99). + +[Illustration: Fig. 99.] + +{53} + +(9). +Four-Fold Purchase+.--Two four-fold blocks. Power gained--eight +or nine times (Fig. 100). + +[Illustration: Fig. 100.] + +(10). +A Single Spanish Burton+.--Two single blocks and a hook. Power +gained--three times (Fig. 101). + +[Illustration: Fig. 101.] + +{54} + +[Illustration: Fig. 102.] + +(11). +A Double Spanish Burton+.--There are two forms of this +purchase--Fig. 102, by using three single blocks; Fig. 103, by using +one double block and two single blocks. Power gained--five times. + +[Illustration: Fig. 103.] + +{55} + +(12). +A Spanish Windlass+.--To rig a Spanish Windlass take a good +strand well greased in the centre. Place the strand over the two parts +of the rope that are to be hove together, and bringing the ends of the +strand up again, place a bolt close to the strand. Take the ends of +the strand and lay them up with their own parts so as to form two eyes. +Take a round turn with this round the bolt, put a marline-spike through +each eye and heave around (Fig. 104). + +[Illustration: Fig. 104.] + + + + +{56} + +MISCELLANEOUS ODDS AND ENDS. + +(1). +A Palm and Needle Whipping+ is a more permanent way of securing +a rope's end from fraying than the common whipping put on by hand. +First, place the needle under one of the strands and draw nearly the +whole length of twine through. Take a considerable number of turns +round the rope with the twine, drawing each well taut in turn, and +finish up by following round with the needle between each strand, +forming a series of frappings, and cut off the end of the twine short +(Fig. 105). + +[Illustration: Fig. 105.] + +(2). +A West Country Whipping+ is formed by middling the twine around +the part of the rope to be marked and half knotting it at every half +turn, so that each half knot will be on opposite sides. When a +sufficient number of turns are passed, finish it off with a reef knot. + +{57} + +(3). +An American Whipping+ is sometimes used for the ends of hawsers. +It is commenced in the same way as a common whipping, but finished off +by having both ends out in the middle of the whipping and forming a +reef knot. This is done by leaving the first end out when you commence +to pass the turns on the bight over the last end. + +(4). +To Point a Rope End+.--First put a stop on at twice and a half +the circumference of the rope from the end, which will leave about the +length for pointing, unlay the rope to the stop and then unlay the +strands. Split a number of the outside yarns and make a nettle out of +each yarn. (A nettle is made by laying up the yarns with the finger +and thumb left-handed.) When the nettles are made stop them back on +the standing part of the rope; then form the point with the rest of the +yarns by scraping them down to a proper size with a knife, and marl +them down together with twine; divide the nettles, taking every other +one up and every other one down. Pass three turns with a piece of +twine--which is called the warp--very taut round the part where the +nettles separate, taking a hitch with the last turn. Continue to +repeat this process by placing every alternate nettle up and down, +passing the warp or "filling," taking a hitch each time, until the {58} +point is to its required length. It is generally finished off by +working a small Flemish eye in the end (Figs. 106 and 107). + +[Illustration: Fig. 106. Fig. 107.] + +(5). +Turk's Head+.--The Turk's Head is one of the most common of the +ornamental knots used at sea, and is formed from an ordinary clove +hitch (Fig. 108) made sufficiently slack to allow for the working of +the other parts. + +[Illustration: Fig. 108.] + +Having formed the clove hitch, pass _b_ over _c_ and tuck _a_ under and +up through the bight formed by _c_ as in Fig. 109. It will then be +found that there is another twist in {60} the parts _b_ and _c_, tuck +_a_ under _e_ and over _b_. Then go on as in Fig. 109, and put _b_ +over _c_ again and tuck _a_ as before. The number of crossings +required depends principally on the size of the material on which the +Turk's Head is formed. To finish off as in Fig. 110, the part _a_ is +made to follow _d_ (Fig 108) round for three times. + +[Illustration: Fig. 109.] + +[Illustration: Fig. 110.] + +(6). +Mousing a Hook+.--All hooks in running gear should be moused as +in Fig. 111. + +[Illustration: Fig. 111.] + +{61} + +(7). +Securing Lead Line to Lead+.--The lead is fitted with a good +wire grommet parcelled over. The lead line should have a long eye +spliced in it, and is secured by passing the eye through the grommet +and over the lead (Fig. 112). + +[Illustration: Fig. 112.] + +(8). +Fitting a Flag+.--A toggle should be secured at the head of the +hoist by an eye splice; a length of rope equal to the width of the flag +left below the hoist, as this is the distance the flags should be +apart, and then a running eye splice made so as to be rapidly attached +to the next flag. + +(9). +To Stick a Cringle+.--First unlay a single strand from {62} the +size of rope your cringle is required to be, whip both ends, reeve the +strand through the left hand eyelet hole in the sail, having one end +longer than the other--nearly a third--keeping the roping of the sail +towards you. If a thimble is to be put in the cringle, lay up the +parts of the strand together, counting three lays; commence with the +short end of the strand towards you, then reeve the long strand from +you through the right hand eyelet hole, taking it through the cringle, +and it will be in the right position to lay up in the vacant space left +in the cringle; when done, the one end will hang down inside the right +hand eyelet hole and the other end outside the left hand one; the ends +are then hitched by being rove through their respective eyelet holes +and passed over the leech rope and under their own part, one hitch +being towards you and the other from you; then take the ends down under +one strand on the right and two on the left of cringle nearest to it; +then tuck the ends under the first two strands nearest the hitch, +heaving them well in place; the cringle is then fidded out, and the +thimble is put in on the fore part of the sail. The ends of the strand +are then tucked back, left-handed, under one strand, again under two, +right-handed, as in the first place, heaving them taut in place {63} at +each tuck, the ends are then whipped with two of their own yarns and +cut off. If a large cringle is needed, count an extra number of +lays--5, 7, etc., always an odd number. + +(10). +To Finish a Cringle off on the Crown+.--Commence as before, but +after laying up the strand, instead of forming a hitch with each end, +the ends are rove through their respective eyelet holes and tucked back +under two strands of the cringles and again laid up as far as the +crown, forming a four-stranded cringle, and finished off by tucking the +ends under two strands and crossing them under the crown of the cringle +and cut close off. + +[Illustration: Fig. 113. Fig. 114.] + +{64} + +In working a cringle in a piece of rope the only difference is there +are no eyelet holes, therefore the strand is tucked under two strands +of the rope it is to be worked in. + +(11). +To Lengthen a Rope of a Sail with a Single Strand+.--Say it is +necessary to give a sail one cloth more spread, it would then be +necessary to lengthen the head and foot rope. Supposing the width of +cloth to be 2 feet and the size of the rope 3 in. After ripping the +rope off four cloths, first of all cut the strand at the distance 2 ft. +6 in. from each other as in Fig. 115. + +[Illustration: Fig. 115.] + +Cut one of the strands at _a_ and unlay it to _c_, then cut one of the +strands remaining at _c_ and unlay it to _b_, laying the strand _a_ up +again as far as _b_; then cut the only remaining strand at _b_, which +will be the centre, when your rope will be in two parts. By following +the plan the wrong strand cannot possibly be cut. The rope will now +appear as in Fig. 116. + +[Illustration: Fig. 116.] + +{65} + +Now marry the long end _a_ to the end _b_, then lay up the long strand +_c_ in the lays of the strand _a_, and marry it to the other strand _b_ +as in Fig. 117. + +[Illustration: Fig. 117.] + +Take a strand about 10 ft. in length of the same size rope and marry +one end to the short strand _a_ as shown above, then fill up the space +left from _a_ to _c_ by laying in the new strand, and marry the other +end to the short strand _c_. You will then have four splices to finish +off as ordinary long splices (Fig. 118). + +[Illustration: Fig. 118.] + +(11). +Jury Knot+. The jury knot is useful when a jury mast has to be +rigged, as the loops form a means of attaching the necessary supports +to the mast. The centre _k_ (Fig. 120) is slipped over the masthead, +and the weight brought on the stays tightens it and holds it in its +position on the mast. + +{66} + +It is formed by three ordinary half-hitches, each placed behind the +other and with the loop of the last laid over the first, as in Fig. 119. + +[Illustration: Fig. 119.] + +Having done this, keep the hitches together with the right hand, and +with the left take _a_ and dip it under _b_ and pull _c_ through _a_ +and _b_. Then, holding the knot with the left hand, place _f_ over +_e_, and pull _d_ between _e_ and _f_. Take _g_ in the teeth and pull +on the parts _g_, _f_, and _a_. The ends _h_ and _z_ may be either +knotted or spliced. + +{67} + +[Illustration: Fig. 120.] + +(13). +Sling for a Barrel+.--The following method of slinging a barrel +is adopted when it is desired to hoist it up end on. + +[Illustration: Fig. 121.] + +Pass the bight _a_ of the rope under the lower end of the barrel and +bring the two parts up, and with them {68} form an overhand knot _b_, +which is opened out so as to fit over the end of the barrel. + +The bight _a_ is placed under the cask, and the overhand knot _b_ is +slipped over the head, and the two ends are brought up and knotted as +in Fig. 122. + +[Illustration: Fig. 122.] + +(14). +Chain Knot+.--An easy and ornamental way of shortening a rope +is that known as the chain knot. + +To form it proceed as though you are going to make an ordinary overhand +knot, but instead of working with both ends use the end and a bight as +in Fig. 123. + +{69} + +This will form the loop _a_, Fig. 123, through which pass a bight of +_b_ and continue in this way until all the slack rope is used up, and +it can be finished off by running the end through the last loop (Fig. +124). + +[Illustration: Fig. 123. Fig. 124.] + +(15). +Double Chain+.--The Double Chain is a little more intricate +than the chain knot, and is formed by taking a turn round the standing +part and thus forming a loop {70} _c_, through which the end _a_ is +passed, thus forming the loop _b_ (Fig. 125). + +[Illustration: Fig. 125.] + +The end _a_ is brought back and dipped down through _b_ and this is +continued as long as required, finishing off by running the end through +the last bight and hauling it taut (Fig. 126). + +[Illustration: Fig. 126.] + +{71} + +(16). +Twist Or Plait Knot+.--Another method of shortening a small +handy rope is known as the twist or plait knot. + +Arrange the rope in such a manner that the amount to be taken up forms +a bight as in Fig. 127. + +[Illustration: Fig. 127. Fig. 128.] + +Then by taking _a_ over _b_ and _c_ over _b_, and so on, taking the +outside one on each side alternately over the middle one, the plait is +formed. To keep the plait clear, the end has to be continually dipped +through the first bight made (Fig. 128). + + + + +{72} + +HOW TO HANDLE WIRE ROPE, ETC. + ++The following article by a Wire Specialist will be read with +interest+:-- + +When uncoiling Wire Rope it is important that no kinks are allowed to +form, as once a kink is made no amount of strain can take it out, and +the rope is unsafe to work. If possible a turn-table should be +employed (an old cart wheel mounted on a spindle makes an excellent +one); the rope will then lead off perfectly straight without kinks. +(See Fig. 129.) + +[Illustration: Fig. 129. Fig. 130.] + +If a turn-table is not available the rope may be rolled along the +ground as shown in Fig. 130. + +{73} + +In no case must the rope be laid on the ground and the end taken over +(as in Fig. 131), or kinks will result, and the rope will be completely +spoiled. + +[Illustration: Fig. 131.] + +The life of Wire Rope depends principally upon the diameter of drums, +sheaves, and pulleys; and too much importance cannot be given to the +size of the latter. Wherever possible the size of the pulleys should +be not less than 700 times the diameter of the largest wire in the +rope, and never less than 300 times. The diameters of drums, sheaves, +and pulleys should increase with the working load when the factor of +safety is less than 5 to 1. + +The load should not be lifted with a jerk, as the strain may equal +three or four times the proper load, and a sound rope may easily be +broken. + +Examine ropes frequently. A new rope is cheaper than the risk of +killing or maiming employees. + +{74} + +One-fifth of the ultimate strength of the rope should be considered a +fair working load. + +In shafts and elevators where human life is constantly raised and +lowered, the working load should not be more than one-tenth of the +ultimate breaking strength of the rope. + +To increase the amount of work done, it is better to increase the +working load than the speed of the rope. Experience has shown that the +wear of the rope increases with the speed. + +Wire Rope should be greased when running or idle. Rust destroys as +effectively as hard work. + +Galvanized Wire Rope should never be used for running rope. One day's +use will wear off the coating of zinc, and the rope will soon begin to +rust. + +Great care should be taken that the grooves of drums and sheaves are +perfectly smooth, ample in diameter, and conformed to the surface of +the rope. They should also be in perfect line with the rope, so that +the latter may not chafe on the sides of the grooves. + + ++Set of Wire Rope Splicing Tools+. + +To produce the best work, the splicer should have at his disposal a set +of tools similar to those in the accompanying illustration. + +The Tool set consists of--1 Tucker for Small Strands Splicing; 1 Marlin +Spike, Round; 1 Marlin Spike, Flatted; 1 Pair Special Steel Wire +Cutters; 1 Serving Mallet. All of best Cast Steel, Hand Forged. + +{75} + +[Illustration: Fig 132.] + +These Sets may be had at prices varying from 15/6 to 46/-. + +{76} + ++Directions for Splicing+. + +TO MAKE AN ENDLESS SPLICE.--Clamps are applied to the rope sufficiently +far back from the ends to allow plenty of room for the splice, and the +men to operate in. The two ends are then drawn together by means of +blocks and tackle, until they overlap each other for a space of twenty +to thirty feet, according to the size of the rope. At a point from +each end midway of the lap, the rope must be bound with a good serving +of No. 18 or No. 20 annealed wire. The serving at the extreme ends is +then cut off, the strands untwisted to the new serving, and the hemp +cores also cut off so as to abut when the open bunches of strands are +brought together, and the opposite strands interlaced regularly with +each other, presenting the appearance as near as can be shown (Fig. +133). + +[Illustration: Fig. 133.] + +After these are all correctly interlaced, pull the ropes tightly +together, so that the cores abut against one another. Next take {77} +strand No. 1, and as it is being unlaid, follow it up with strand A, +which must be laid into its place tightly until within five feet from +the end. Strand No. 1 is then cut off, leaving it five feet long, same +length as A strand. The remaining strands are treated the same way, +three alternate strands being laid towards the right hand and three to +the left. The strands being now all laid in their places, the ends are +cut off, as with the first strands, to five feet. The appearance of +splice will now be the same as in Fig. 134. + +[Illustration: Fig. 134.] + +The next thing is to tuck in the ends, and this is where the skill +comes in. Before doing this, _care should be observed to see that the +spliced portion of the rope is perfectly limp, or free of tension, +otherwise this operation cannot be well performed_. The core is then +cut and pulled out on the side corresponding with the end to be tucked +in for a distance equal to the length of the end which is to replace +it. It is desirable, especially if the rope is composed of small +wires, to tie the ends of the strands with soft twine or threads of +jute yarn in order to keep the wires well bunched. A marlin spike is +then passed over +1+ and under two of the strands, when the core is cut +off at the proper point, and by moving the spike along the rope +spirally with the strands, the loose end +1+ is passed into the core +space and the spike withdrawn. {78} Then pull out the core on the +other side, pass the marlin spike over A and under two strands as +before, cut off the core, and tuck in the end A in precisely the same +manner, after which the rope is twisted back again as tightly as +possible, and the clamps or other appliances that may be used are +removed to the next pair of projecting ends. Any slight inequality in +the symmetrical shape of the rope may be taken out by pounding with a +wooden mallet. Some prefer to tuck in first all the ends projecting in +one direction, and then the ends projecting the other way; it is +immaterial in what order they are tucked in. + +If these directions are implicitly followed, the spliced portion of the +rope will be of uniform diameter with other portions, and will present +a smooth and even appearance throughout. After running a day or two, +the locality of the splice cannot be readily detected, and the rope +will be quite as strong in this portion as any other. + + ++Splicing Thimbles+. + +UNDER AND OVER STYLE--Ordinary type of Wire Rope. Serve the rope with +wire or tarred yarn to suit the circumference of the thimble, bend +round thimble and tie securely in place with temporary lashing till +splice is finished (as in Fig. 135). Open out the strands (as in Fig. +136), taking care to keep the loose end of the rope to the left hand +(see Fig. 136). Now insert marlin spike, lifting two strands (as shown +in Fig. 137), and tuck away towards the right hand (that is inserting +the strand at the point, and over the spike) strand No. 1, pulling the +strand well home. Next {80} insert marlin spike through next strand to +the left, only lifting one strand, the point of the spike coming out at +the same place as before. Tuck away strand No. 2 as before. + +[Illustration: Fig. 135. Fig. 136. Fig. 137. Fig. 138.] + +The next tuck is the locking tuck. Insert marlin spike in next strand, +and, missing No. 3, tuck away strand No. 4 from the point of the spike +towards the right hand. Now, without taking out the spike, tuck away +strand No. 3 behind the spike towards the left hand (as shown in Fig. +138). Now insert spike in next strand, and tuck away strand No. 5 +behind and over the spike. No. 6 likewise. Pull all the loose strands +well down. + +[Illustration: Fig. 139. Fig. 140.] + +This completes the first series of tucks, and the splice will, if made +properly, be as Fig. 139. Now, starting with strand No. 1 and taking +each strand in rotation, tuck away under one strand and over the next +strand till all the strands have been tucked four times. If {81} it is +intended to taper the splice, the strands may at this point be split, +and half of the wires being tucked away as before, the other half cut +close to the splice. Fig. 127 [Transcriber's note: 140?] shows the +finished splice ready for serving over. + +[Illustration: Fig. 141.] + +{82} + +It will be noticed that this style of splice possesses a plaited +appearance, and the more strain applied to the rope, the tighter the +splice will grip, and there is no fear of the splice drawing owing to +rotation of the rope. + +LIVERPOOL OR SPIRAL STYLE (See Fig. 141).--Hawsers, or any ropes not +hanging free and liable to spin, may be spliced in this style, in which +the strands, instead of being interlocked together, are merely tucked +round and round one particular strand in the rope. Each loose strand +is of course tucked round a different strand in the rope. This is +sometimes called the "Liverpool" style (See Fig. 141). + +[Illustration: Fig. 141.] + + + + +{83} + +TABLES + ++Showing Weights, etc., of Various Cordage+. + + KINDS. LENGTH. WEIGHT. + + Reefing twine, 24 skeins 8 to 9 lbs. + Sewing twine, 24 " 8 to 9 lbs. + Marline, 12 " 4 lbs. + Log lines, 25 fathoms 1 to 3 lbs. + Samson lines, 30 " 3/4 lb. + Samson lines, 30 " 1 lb. + Samson lines, 30 " 1 1/4 lbs. + Samson lines, 30 " 1 1/2 lbs. + Fishing lines, 25 " 1/4 lb. + Fishing lines, 25 " 1/2 lb. + Fishing lines, 25 " 3/4 lb. + Fishing lines, 25 " 1 lb. + Hambro'-lines (6 threads), 23 " 1 1/2 lbs. + Hambro'-lines (9 threads), 23 " 2 1/4 lbs. + Hambro'-lines (12 threads), 23 " 3 lbs. + Hand lead lines, 20 " 4 lbs. + Deep sea lines, 120 " 28 lbs. + Deep sea lines, 120 " 32 lbs. + Deep sea lines, 120 " 34 lbs. + Deep sea lines, 120 " 36 lbs. + + + + +{84} + +STRENGTH OF ROPES. + + + Working Breaking Ordinary + Hemp. Iron. Steel. Load. Strain. Chain. + Cwts. Tons. + + 2 3/4 1 6 2 5/16 + 1 1/2 1 9 3 + 3 3/4 1 5/8 12 4 + 1 3/4 1 1/2 15 5 + 4 1/2 1 7/8 18 6 + 2 1 5/8 21 7 + 5 1/2 2 1/8 1 3/4 24 8 9/16 + 2 1/4 27 9 + 6 2 3/8 1 7/8 30 10 + 6 1/2 2 5/8 2 36 12 + 2 3/4 2 1/8 37 13 + 7 2 7/8 2 1/4 42 14 11/16 + 7 1/2 3 1/8 2 3/8 48 16 + 8 3 3/8 2 1/2 54 18 + 3 1/2 2 5/8 60 20 + 8 1/2 3 5/8 2 3/4 66 22 + 9 1/2 3 7/8 3 1/4 78 26 15/16 + 10 4 84 28 1 + 4 1/4 3 3/8 90 30 + 11 4 3/8 96 32 + 4 1/2 3 1/2 108 36 + 12 4 5/8 3 3/4 120 40 + + + + +{85} + +[Transcriber's note: in the source book, the following two tables were +a single table. It has been split into two due to space limitations.] + + + ++TABLE OF WEIGHTS AND BREAKING STRAINS+. + + Circum- + ference White Tarred + of Rope. Manila Rope. Hemp Rope. Coir Rope. + + Weight Weight Weight + for 120 Breaking for 120 Breaking for 120 Breaking + Fathoms. Strain. Fathoms. Strain. Fathoms. Strain. + + + + Ins. Ct. Qr. Lb. Tns. Cwts. Ct. Qr. Lb. Tns. Cwts. Ct. Qr. Lb. Tns. Cwts. + + 1 -- -- -- -- -- -- + 1 1/4 -- -- -- -- -- -- + 1 1/2 -- -- -- -- -- -- + 1 3/4 -- -- -- -- -- -- + + 2 0 3 4 1 6 1 0 0 0 19 0 2 4 0 6 + 2 1/4 0 3 26 1 13 1 0 27 1 2 0 2 19 0 8 + 2 1/2 1 0 20 2 0 1 2 4 1 7 0 3 9 0 10 + 2 3/4 1 1 25 2 9 1 3 11 1 13 1 0 0 0 12 + + 3 1 3 2 2 18 2 0 22 2 2 1 0 22 0 14 + 3 1/4 2 0 7 3 8 2 2 10 2 7 1 1 17 0 16 + 3 1/2 2 1 12 3 19 3 0 2 2 17 1 2 15 0 19 + 3 3/4 2 2 21 4 11 3 1 21 3 7 1 3 14 1 2 + + 4 3 0 6 5 3 4 0 0 3 17 2 0 16 1 5 + 4 1/4 3 2 0 5 17 4 2 0 4 4 2 1 18 1 8 + 4 1/2 3 3 20 6 11 4 3 24 4 10 2 2 20 1 12 + + 5 4 2 24 8 2 6 0 15 5 10 3 1 8 2 0 + 5 1/2 5 3 16 9 16 7 1 15 6 10 4 0 0 2 8 + + 6 7 0 8 11 13 8 3 4 8 9 4 3 4 2 18 + 6 1/2 8 1 0 13 14 10 1 12 9 9 5 2 12 3 6 + + 7 9 1 20 15 18 12 0 8 11 9 6 2 4 3 18 + + 8 12 0 24 20 14 16 0 0 15 9 8 2 8 5 0 + + + + + + + Galvanised Galvanised + Circum- Galvanised Patent Steel Patent Steel + ference Rigging Flexible Extra Flexible + of Rope. Wire Rope. Wire Rope. Wire Rope. + + Weight Weight Weight + per Breaking per Breaking per Breaking + Fathom. Strain Fathom. Strain Fathom. Strain + + Lbs. Tons. Lbs. Tons. Lbs. Tons. + + 1 1.2 1 3/4 .76 1 3/4 .88 2 1/2 + 1 1/4 1.6 3 1.12 2 7/8 1.36 4 + 1 1/2 2.2 4 1.44 4 2.00 7 + 1 3/4 3.0 5 1/2 2.00 5 1/2 2.72 9 + + 2 3.8 7 2.40 7 3.48 11 + 2 1/4 4.6 9 3.12 9 1/2 4.44 13 1/2 + 2 1/2 5.8 11 4.00 12 1/2 5.44 17 1/2 + 2 3/4 6.8 13 4.64 15 1/2 6.72 22 1/2 + + 3 8.0 16 5.48 18 8.00 25 1/2 + 3 1/4 9.2 19 6.80 22 9.48 30 + 3 1/2 11.2 22 7.80 26 11.00 36 + 3 3/4 12.4 26 9.00 29 12.44 40 + + 4 14.4 30 10.00 33 14.24 44 + 4 1/4 17.0 34 11.20 35 16.00 49 + 4 1/2 18.4 38 12.80 39 18.00 50 + + 5 -- -- -- -- -- -- + 5 1/2 -- -- -- -- -- -- + + 6 -- -- -- -- -- -- + 6 1/2 -- -- -- -- -- -- + + 7 -- -- -- -- -- -- + + 8 -- -- -- -- -- -- + + + +{86} + ++Strength of Short Round-Linked Chain+. + + INCHES. MEAN BREAKING STRAIN. TEST. + Tons. + + 1 1/4 44 18.8 + 1 29 12.0 + 7/8 23 9.1 + 3/4 17 6.8 + 5/8 12 4.6 + 1/2 7 1/2 3.0 + + + + + + + + + +End of Project Gutenberg's Knots, Bends, Splices, by J. Netherclift Jutsum + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK KNOTS, BENDS, SPLICES *** + +***** This file should be named 30983.txt or 30983.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/3/0/9/8/30983/ + +Produced by Al Haines + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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