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diff --git a/30292.txt b/30292.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..2c7427f --- /dev/null +++ b/30292.txt @@ -0,0 +1,4414 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of How to Tie Flies, by E. C. Gregg + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: How to Tie Flies + +Author: E. C. Gregg + +Release Date: October 20, 2009 [EBook #30292] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ASCII + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK HOW TO TIE FLIES *** + + + + +Produced by Hugh T. Mitten + + + + + + + +[Transcriber's Note: This transcription attempts to follow page +numbering and capitalization as closely as possible. Occasionally, +a paragraph spans more than one page with one or more full page +sized illustrations between the pages, thus splitting the paragraph. +This required adjustment to the numbering of some pages. + +The listing of the Barns Sports Library has been relocated to the +end of the book in order to improve continuity. + +The table of "Standard Dressings Of 334 Flies" actually has only +319 dressings.] + + + +HOW TO TIE FLIES + +HOW +TO TIE +FLIES + +BY +E. C. GREGG + +DRAWINGS AND PHOTOGRAPHS +BY THE AUTHOR + +A. S. BARNES AND COMPANY + +NEW YORK + + +Copyright, 1940, A. S. Barnes & Company. Inc + +THIS BOOK IS FULLY PROTECTED BY COPYRIGHT AND NOTHING THAT APPEARS IN +IT MAY BE REPRINTED OR REPRODUCED IN ANY MANNER, EITHER WHOLLY OR IN +PART, FOR ANY USE WHATEVER, WITHOUT SPECIAL WRITTEN PERMISSION BY THE +COPYRIGHT OWNER + +PRINTED IN THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA + +CONTENTS + + INTRODUCTION vii + TOOLS, HOOKS AND MATERIALS . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 + Tools--Fly-Tier's Vise Hackle Pliers, scissors, + Hooks + Materials--Quill Bodies, Herl Bodies, Hackles, + Tails, Cheeks or Shoulders, Ribbing, + Wings, Tying Silk + BUCKTAIL STREAMERS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15 + WET FLIES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22 + DRY FLIES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27 + NYMPHS and Their Construction . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 + Nymphs: Their Construction + The Helgramite + BASS FLIES AND FEATHER STREAMERS . . . . . . . . . . 42 + FAMOUS BUCKTAIL AND FEATHER STREAMERS . . . . . . . . 47 + FLOATING BUGS and Their Construction . . . . . . . . 49 + Cork Bodied Bass Bugs + ANGLER'S KNOTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61 + MY FAVORITE FLIES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 62 + STANDARD DRESSINGS OF 334 FLIES . . . . . . . . . . . 69 + + + + +{vi} + +[Illustration: Diagram 1. Page sized drawing of parts of a fly.] + + +{vii} + +INTRODUCTION + +The object of this book will be throughout its entirety to teach in a +practical manner the art of Fly Tying in all its branches. The +principles used herein, and the methods of construction employed, are +those used by the professional fly-tier who practices fly-making for the +sake of art, and tries to achieve with each finished fly, a masterpiece. + +None of the short-cuts employed by those whose business is quantity +production will be attempted. Only the making of flies of the very +highest quality and most durable construction will be attempted. +In describing the principals of construction with the following +illustrations, it will be impossible to describe in detail each +standard pattern; however, it must be remembered that the fundamentals +applying to each style of fly will be the principal bases of +construction of all flies of that style, and that the use of different +body materials, hackles, wings or size will simply change the pattern +and not the fundamental points of construction. + +Dressings for hundreds of standard patterns will be found fully +described elsewhere in this book. For clearness {viii} of understanding +please note that where a fly is described in this book as having grey +wings, or red body, etc., and no particular feather or material is +specified, it means that any feather or body material may be used. When +a particular feather, body, hackle, tail, etc., must be used it will be +so stated. + +Each year a steadily increasing number of anglers are learning to tie +their own flies. Not many years ago, there were few in America outside +of professional tiers who understood the art. Now on each angling trip, +at least one is sure to be met, who has discovered the great thrill of +taking fish on flies of his own tying. + +To those who are anticipating the making of their own flies for the +first time, there is the opportunity to exercise one's ingenuity in the +creation of new patterns. To prolong your fishing seasons throughout the +long winter evenings, in the confines of your own den, where, with a +supply of fur, feathers and tinsel, can be enjoyed a profitable, +artistic and pleasant hobby. And the thrill of seeing in each finished +imitation of Ephemeridae, Muscidae and Formicidae, a masterpiece to +bring the joy of living and dreams of spring to the angler's heart. + +Beginners are requested to reject any inclination to skip over the +first part of this book, nor to attempt the tying of the more delicate +and difficult dry flies before they have had sufficient preliminary +training. {ix} This book is so written that the easier flies to make are +the first encountered. Although you may not expect to use Bucktail +Streamers, the fundamental principles employed in their construction, +the knack of handling fur, feathers and tinsel, will be acquired, and a +sense of proportion will be realized. I sincerely encourage you to begin +at the beginning, and by careful and patient study the satisfactory +result will be the ability to make flies that are second to none. + +The illustrations in this book are all drawn to correct proportions +except the tying silk, which is purposely drawn large for clearness +of illustration. Follow these illustrations, and begin by making a +very careful study of Diagram 3, "Bucktails" (page 15). Here will +be learned how to overcome some of the difficulties encountered by +beginners. Many of the fundamentals learned in tying Bucktails are +used in tying all of the flies to follow. For instance, in putting +the wings or tail on a wet fly, the same method of holding the wing +between the thumb and finger and making the loose loop, are explained +as when putting the hair or tail on a Bucktail. Putting the wings on +a fly correctly seems to be the greatest difficulty encountered by +the beginner. Consequently, the necessity of carefully studying +Figs. 4, 5, 10, and 11 of Diagram 3 cannot be too greatly emphasized. +Before tying any other part of the fly, place a bare hook in the +vise, and practice tying on the tail, {x} and then the wings, until you +have mastered this knack, and have the wings and tail setting straight +on top of the hook, as in Figs. 4, 5, 10 and 11 of Diagram 3. First +using hair and then a section of feather. + +Other faults of the beginner where literal descriptions are followed +entirely or where illustrations are not drawn to correct proportions or +followed closely are as follows. The wings are usually too large, and +much too long for the size of the hook, and the tail is most always too +long, as are the hackles. The bodies seldom have a nicely tapered shape, +and most always start too far back on the hook shank. The ribbing is +seldom put on in even tight spirals. The hair on hair flies is always +too long, and too much is used. The head is too large, because the tying +silk is not wound tightly and smoothly. The eye of the hook on the +finished fly is filled with hair, tying silk, hackles and cement. + +I do not mean to criticize these common mistakes of the beginner. +Instead, I merely wish to call them to your mind, and assure you that +they are not necessary, and will not happen if you will diligently +follow instructions in this book. + + +{xi} + +[Illustration: Diagram 2. Page sized drawings of wet flies and feathers.] + + +{xii} + +[Illustration: Page sized photograph of tools.] + + +{1} + +TOOLS, HOOKS AND +MATERIALS + +Very few tools are required by the Fly-Tier. Those that are necessary +are inexpensive, and most of them can be homemade. However, as with any +other craft good tools are an asset. I advise the beginner to procure +the following: + +TOOLS + +Fly-Tiers' vise. There are many styles of fly-tying vises on the market. +The simplest is just a slot cut in a 3/8" piece of square steel with a +hacksaw, and a thumb screw to tighten the slot. This type of vise will +work all right, although rather clumsy and hard to tighten enough to +hold the hook truly. Another simple vise is just a small pin chuck, +soldered to one end of a 1/4" brass rod, bent at the desired angle, and +the other end of the rod soldered to a small C clamp. However, I prefer +a vise of the cam lever type. That is, a vise that has a cam lever for +opening and closing the jaws. These vises, of which there are +several makes, are {2} adjustable to various angles and hook sizes. They +will hold all sizes of hooks very firmly, and are easily and quickly +opened with a flip of the lever. + +Hackle Pliers. These can be purchased for about fifty cents and will +prove a worthwhile investment, as they are rather difficult to make +satisfactorily. + +Scissors. One pair with curved blades and sharp points for small flies +and one pair with small straight blades. A needle pushed into a stick, +for picking out hackles that are wound under, and for putting lacquer on +the finished head, completes the list of necessary tools. + +HOOKS + +Hooks used for fly-tying differ somewhat from those used for bait +fishing etc., inasmuch as they are usually hollow ground, and tapered +shank especially those used for dry flies. The tapered shank next to the +eye allows the head of the fly to be tied smaller, and also reduces the +weight of the hook, an advantage for dry flies. Of course flies may be +tied on any style or grade of hook, but considering the work involved in +making the fly, and realizing that with an old razor blade the fly can +be quickly removed from the hook should the first attempts prove +unsatisfactory, you will see the advantage in using good hooks. + + +{3} + +[Illustration: Page sized diagram showing drawings of hooks.] + + +{4} + +MATERIALS + +Materials used by the Fly-Tier cover an extremely large field. Although +only a few simple and easily obtained items are necessary for a start, +it is interesting to know that furs, feathers and body materials come +from all parts of the world. There's the jungle cock from India whose +neck feathers are extensively used on salmon flies and a very large +percentage of all fancy flies. The golden pheasant from China, the +bustard from Africa, the Mandarin wood duck from China, the capercailzie +from Ireland, the game cocks from Spain and the Orient, the teal, +mallard, grouse, ibis, swan, turkey, and hundreds of others. The polar +bear, Impala, North and South American deer, seal, black bear, skunk, +rabbit, squirrel, are a few of the hairs that are used. The beginner +need not worry about the great variety. Some hooks, silk floss and spun +fur or wool yarn and chenille for bodies, a few sizes of tinsel for +ribbing, bucktails of three or four colors, an assortment of duck and +turkey wing quills some mallard breast, an assortment of neck and saddle +hackles, a spool of tying silk, a piece of wax, a bottle of head +lacquer, and many of the popular patterns can be made. Numerous other +items can be added from time to time, and the novice Fly-Tier will soon +find himself in possession of a collection of fuzzy furs and feathers +that will delight the heart of any professional, and from which any +conceivable lure can be made to attract the denizens of the shady pools. + +{5} + +[Illustration: Page sized photograph of body materials.] + + +{6} + +BODY MATERIAL: Tinsel, Silk Floss, Fur, Chenille, Wool, Quill +and Cork are used for bodies. The most commonly used for Bucktail +Streamers is flat tinsel ribbed with oval tinsel or no ribbing at all. +About the easiest body to make is one of chenille ribbed with tinsel. +Silk floss is mostly used for wet and dry fly bodies. The domestic silk +floss, which is called rope, can be successfully used for the larger +flies, by untwisting and using a few of the smaller strands. An imported +floss of one single strand, with a very slight twist, is especially made +for fly-tying; this will work much better on the smaller hooks. Fur for +fur bodies, which formerly had to be plucked from the hide, dyed the +desired color, and spun on the waxed tying silk, can now be obtained in +all standard fly colors. It is called Spun Fur, and is very convenient +to use in this manner. + +QUILL BODIES: Quill makes an excellent and very lifelike body, +especially on dry flies. The quill from the eyed peacock tail feather is +mostly used. That taken from the eye of the feather when stripped of its +fibers has a two tone effect, and when wound upon the hook without +overlapping makes a very lifelike and delicate appearing body. + + +{7} + +[Illustration: Page sized photograph of feathers.] + + +{8} + +HERL BODIES: Both peacock and ostrich herl is used for bodies. +These make a fuzzy body. Tie in one or two strands by the tip end and +wind on edgewise. + +HACKLES: These are the most important part of the dry fly. Only those +from the neck of a mature cock are satisfactory. Hackles for the dry fly +must be stiff with very little or no web. With such hackles a dry fly +can be sparsely dressed as it should be and still maintain its natural +balance and floating qualities. On the other hand, a wet fly should +sink readily, and should be made with very soft webby hackles. These +absorb water quickly, and have better action in the water. Contrary to +the customary way to tie hackles on the wet fly, as explained in the +chapter "Wet Flies", I find it very convenient and economical to strip +the fibers from any size hackle, clip off the butt ends to the desired +length and tie them on the bottom of the hook, the same as buck tail is +tied on. As wet flies should have hackles only on the bottom or +underneath side, many hackles that are otherwise too large can be used +in this way. + +TAILS: A few fibers from a golden or silver pheasant neck tippet, whisks +from a hackle feather, a strip of wing or breast feather, a few hairs, +etc., are used for tails. Many of the standard patterns are tied without +tails; however, on all of my dry flies, I tie three or four stiff fibers +or hairs. They balance the fly and help it to float much better. + +{9} + +[Illustration: Page sized photograph of feathers.] + + +{10} + +CHEEKS OR SHOULDERS: As per Fig. 9, Diagram 1, these are used on a +great many of the fancy flies. These are straps of one or several +feathers of contrasting colors. Jungle cock feathers, golden pheasant +tippets, silver pheasant body feathers, as on the Grey Ghost streamer +fly, blue chatterer, and many other fancy feathers according to pattern +and fancy are used for this purpose. A pair of jungle cock tippets often +called eyes, added to a Bucktail Streamer will often take trout, when +the same pattern without the jungle cock will not. + +RIBBING: Tinsel, Wool, Silk, Horse Hair, Quill, etc., are used for +ribbing. The tinsel from your Xmas tree will do, but it is much better +to use tinsel made for the purpose, as it will not tarnish so +quickly and is much stronger. It is advisable before using tinsel to +place a drop of good, clear head lacquer between the thumb and finger +and draw the tinsel through it. This makes it tarnish-proof, and is +particularly advisable with the oval and round tinsel that is wound +over a silk core. Besides tarnish-proofing it, it will keep the tinsel +from coming apart. Tinsel bodies should be lacquered after they are +finished. + + +{11} + +[Illustration: Page sized photograph of feathers.] + + +WINGS: Several styles of wings are used, see Diagram 2, page xi, those +on Fig. 1, and are cut from a pair of matched wing quill feathers, like +Fig. 7. Those in Fig. 2 are buzz wings taken from a pair of breast +feathers {12} (mallard, wood duck, etc.) shown in Fig. 8. Fig. 3 shows +hackle tip wings, tips of two hackle feathers, see Fig. 9. Fan wings, +Fig. 4, are a matched pair of small breast feathers, see Fig. 10 (white +duck, mallard, teal, grouse, etc.). In fact there is hardly a bird that +flies that does not supply some of its plumage to the Fly-Tier. Flies +of the order Diptera (land flies), such as the Bee, Cowdung, Blue Bottle, +etc., should be tied with flat wings as in Fig. 5. A Bi-visible is shown +in Fig. 6. This is a fly without wings, hackle tied palmer (that is hackle +wound the full length of the hook, usually tied without a body, and the +dark patterns have a turn or two of white hackle in front). + +All of the flies on Diagram 2 are shown as dry flies; however, the same +feathers are used for wet flies, streamers, etc., the difference being +the style in which they are tied, which is explained elsewhere. + +WAX: Use a good grade of wax for fly-tying. The proper wax will work +much better than shoemaker's wax or beeswax. Wax for fly-tying should be +quite sticky so that when the waxed tying silk is let go of, it will not +unwind while tying the fly. + + +{13} + +[Illustration: Page sized photograph of feathers.] + + +TYING SILK: Ordinary sewing silk is too coarse for ordinary fly-tying +and it doesn't seem to have the strength. Size 00 is a good size for all +flies including bucktails and streamers. For dry flies and small wet +flies a gossamer silk size 000 and 0000 is the best to {14} use. +Although the strength of this fine silk is much less than the size 00, +it has the advantage that more turns can be used, and the heads can be +made much smaller. + +{15} + +BUCKTAIL STREAMERS + + +{16} + +[Illustration: Diagram 3. Page sized diagram showing drawings of bucktail +construction.] + + +Place a hook in the vise and start waxed tying silk (See Diagram 3, page +15) (A) 1/8" from eye of hook Fig. 1. Take five or six turns and cut off +end (B) Fig. 2. Wind tying silk (A) closely and smoothly down hook shank +as Fig 3. (A complete understanding of the next step will have a great +deal to do with the success of the beginner's greatest difficulty, that +is, putting on the wings; the procedure is the same for all flies, study +Fig. 4.) Hold tail material (C) between thumb and finger of the left +hand, slide the fingers down over the hook, so that the tail material +rests on top of the hook, with the hook held firmly between thumb and +finger as Fig. 4. Now loosen grip just enough to allow tying silk (A) to +pass up between thumb and tail material, form a loose loop over +material, and down, between finger and material on the other side. Now +tighten grip with thumb and finger and pull loop down tight; repeat once +more, see Fig. 5. (This knack of holding the material and hook firmly +together, until the loose loop is drawn down tightly keeps the tail, or +wings, on top of the {17} hook, and at the same time keeps them from +splitting or turning sidewise.) Now that the tail is in place, with two +turns of the tying silk (A) tie in ribbing (D) Fig. 6. Now take six or +eight close tight turns with the tying silk towards the eye of the hook, +with two more turns tie in the body material (E) Fig. 7. IF USING TINSEL +FOR BODY MATERIAL, BE SURE AND CUT THE END TO A TAPER BEFORE TYING IN as +(E) Fig. 7; this tends to make a smoother body and prevents a bunch +where the body material is tied in. Next wind tying silk (A) back to the +starting point, take a half hitch and let it hang. Now wind body +material (E) clockwise (all windings are clockwise) tightly and smoothly +back towards the barb, to the extreme rear end of the body, pull tight +and wind forward to within 1/8" of the eye, wind back and forth to form +smooth tapered body as Fig. 8 (tinsel bodies are not tapered). (If +using silk floss, untwist the floss and use only one half or one third +of the strands, do not let it twist, wind tight, and it will make a nice +smooth body.) Take two turns and a half hatch with the tying silk, and +cut off end of the material (F) Fig. 8. Take one tight turn with ribbing +(D) over butt of tail close to rear end of the body, also one turn +under the tail if tail is to be cocked. Wind ribbing spirally around the +body and tie off with two turns and a half hitch of tying silk as Fig. +9. + + +{18} + +[Illustration: Page sized photograph of bucktail streamers tied by the +author.] + + +{19} + +[Illustration: Page sized photograph of bucktails.] + + + +{20} + +Take about three dozen hairs of colored bucktail, cut off butt ends to +the length wanted for the finished fly, not more than one half again as +long as the hook, place these on top of the hook as Fig. 10 with butt +ends about 1/16" back of the eye (this is held the same as when putting +on the tail, Fig. 4). Pull down two or three loops, Fig. 11. Now take +about 175 hairs of other colored bucktail, place this on top of the +first colored bucktail the same as Fig. 10. Repeat the same operation +as Fig. 11. Before finishing the head put a drop of head lacquer on the +butt ends of the hairs to cement them in place, finish by making a +smooth tapered head with the tying silk, take three or four half +hitches, paint the head with two or three coats of lacquer and the job +is complete, unless you wish to add jungle cock cheeks, or other +combinations of feathers. This of course is done before the head is +completed. + + +{21} + +[Illustration: Diagram 4. Page sized diagram showing drawings of wet +flys.] + + +{22} + +WET FLIES + +Start the waxed tying silk (See Diagram 4, page 21) 1/8" from eye of +hook, Fig. 1. Wind tying silk (A) down shank of hook, and with last two +turns tie in tag material (B) Fig. 2. Tags (see diagram 1) usually +represent the egg sac on the female of the species. Chenille, wool, +gold, silver, silk, herl, or various other materials are used for tags. +(Ribbing, if used, is tied in just before the tag material.) Tie in tail +(C) Fig. 3 (see Fig. 4 Bucktail, Diagram 3, page 15, for directions, how +to hold the tail. Take from one to four turns with the Tag Material (B) +around the hook, take a couple of turns with tying silk (A) around the +loose end of (B) and cut off (B) as Fig. 4. Take about three or four +turns towards the eye of the hook with (A), with two more turns tie in +the body material (D) Fig. 4. Wind (A) back to the starting point, take +a half hitch and let hang. Wind body material (D) to where (A) was left +hanging. Wind (D) back and forth several times to form a tapered body, +fasten with two or three turns and a half hitch with (A) Fig. 5. Next +take hackle (E), and strip off soft web fibers on dotted line, Fig. E. +Hold hackle {23} (E) by the tip with thumb and finger of the left hand, +with the shiny side of the hackle to the right, place the butt +diagonally under the hook and take four or five tight turns and a half +hitch with (A) Fig. 6. Be sure that the hackle is tied on edgewise with +the shiny side to the front. Now grasp the tip of the hackle with the +hackle pliers and wind four or five turns clockwise around the hook. If +the hackle starts winding edgewise it will go on without any trouble, if +not better take it off and try again until you get the knack of tying +the butt in at just the right angle. Take three or four turns over the +hackle tip with (A) and clip off the tip close as Fig. 7. With the thumb +and finger of the left hand, reach from under the hook and pull all the +fibers down to the bottom, take three or four turns over them with (A) +towards the barb of the hook, to hold them in place, and to keep them +pointing well back, as Fig. 8. Next take a pair of matched (one right +and one left) turkey, goose, or other wing feathers, Fig. A, and cut a +section from each about 1/4" wide, place the two sections with tips even +and concave sides together as Fig. B. Cut off the butt ends to the right +length, that is so that the tips come even, or a little beyond the bend +of the hook. Place on top of hook as Fig. 9 and tie on the same as +previously explained in tying hair on Bucktails (Diagram 3, page 15, +Figs. 4 and 10). Finish off with a smooth tapered head, two or +three half hitches {24} and a couple of coats of good head lacquer, +Fig. 10. Many patterns are tied palmer, that is the hackle is wound the +whole length of the body. Many of the dry flies are tied this way, +especially the Bi-visibles. To tie a palmer hackle, prepare the hackle +by holding the tip of the hackle between the thumb and finger of the left +hand, and with the thumb and finger of the right hand, stroke the fibers +back so that they point towards the butt, instead of towards the tip, Fig. +C, Diagram 4. With the shiny side of the hackle up, strip off the fibers +from the bottom side as Fig. D. Now tie the hackle in by the tip as +Fig. 11. Make the body the same as before. Wind the hackle spirally around +the body and tie off the butt, Fig. 12. To make the hackle more full near +the head, one or more hackles are tied in at the same time as Figs. 6 +and 7, the palmer hackle is wound to within 1/8" of the eye and the butt +tied in and cut off the same as the tip was cut off Fig. 7. + + +{25} + +[Illustration: Page sized photograph of wet flies tied by the author.] + + +{26} + +[Illustration: Page sized photograph of feathers.] + + + +{27} + +DRY FLIES + +Start winding waxed tying silk (See Diagram 5, page 28) (A) about 1/8" +from the eye of the hook, take three or four turns towards the bend of +the hook and cut off end, Fig. 1, Diagram 5. Cut a section about 1/4" +wide from a right and one from a left wing feather, as Fig. A Diagram 4, +page 21 (duck wings are best for dry flies). Place convex sides together +(just the reverse of Fig. B, Diagram 4). Do not cut off the butt ends, +instead straddle the hook as Fig. 2, Diagram 5. Hold between the thumb +and finger of the left hand as already explained in Figs. 4 and 10, +Diagram 3, page 15. Tip the wings (B) forward so that they stand about +perpendicular to the shank, and pull down loop, Fig. 3, as explained in +Diagram 3, Fig. 4. Take one more turn with (A) around the wings (B) in +front as Fig. 4 and before loosening the grip with the left hand take +two turns around the hook close in back of the wings (B), Fig. 5. Next +pull the butt ends back tightly as Fig. 6, take two tight turns around +them with (A) and cut off on dotted line as Fig. 6. Cross (A) between +wings (B) to spread them, and wind tying silk (A) down shank of the hook +as Fig. 7. + + +{28} + +[Illustration: Diagram 5. Page sized diagram showing drawings of dry fly +construction.] + + +{29} + +[Illustration: Page sized photograph of Fan Wings, Dry Flies, and Nymphs +tied by the author.] + + +{30} + +From now on the body is made as previously explained, so for the sake of +variation we will tie a band in the centre, the same as a Royal +Coachman. Tie in tail (C) Fig. 8. Tie in two or three strands of peacock +herl (D) Fig. 9 with (A) and wind (A) four or five turns towards the eye +of the hook. Take three or four turns with herl (D). Tie in two strands +of silk floss (E) Fig. 10, take a few more turns with (A) over the loose +ends of (D) towards the eye of the hook. Wind silk floss (E) over the +herl about half way up the hook. Take a turn or two around silk floss +(E) with (A) and cut off end of (E) as Fig. 11. Carry (A) up to the +front of the wings. Finish body with herl (D) wound tight against the +back of the wings. (This helps to push the wings forward and to hold +them in place.) Tie off herl (D) with (A) Fig. 12. The next step of +putting on the hackle (F) is done the same as Fig. 6, Diagram 4, page +21. But here the hackle is much more important than on the wet fly. The +floating qualities of a dry fly depend entirely upon stiff neck hackle +of the proper size. (Use Hackle Chart.) Sometimes two hackles are used, +these are laid together, and both butts tied in at the same time. One +hackle of the proper size and stiffness is usually enough, so we will +use one tied in as Fig. 13 and explained in Fig. 6, Diagram 4, page +21. Clip the hackle pliers to the tip of hackle (F) and wind +about two turns edgewise in front of the wings, wind two turns close +{31} in back of the wings. Take two or three more turns in front of the +wings, all the while keeping the hackle edgewise, with the shiny side +towards the eye of the hook. Wind the hackle close so as not to fill up +the eye of the hook and to leave room for the head. Tie in the tip with +a couple of turns of (A) Fig. 14. The hackle should now be standing +straight out from the hook, with the most of it in front of the wings. +Shape a tapered head with (A). (Head should be about 1/16" long on a +size 12 hook.) Finish with two or three half hitches and a drop +of head lacquer, Fig. 15. + +Various feathers are used for wings of dry flies, such as breast +feathers from mallard, teal; partridge, grouse, black duck, wood duck. +Hackle tips, starling, duck, turkey, goose, pheasant, wing feathers, +etc. + +Two whole feathers of the proper size, with the natural curve are used +for fan wings. The tips of two feathers, or a section may be cut from +two matched feathers. All of these wings are tied on in the same manner +as previously explained. See Diagram 2 for flies tied with different +style wings. + +[Illustration: Drawing of hackle size chart at bottom of page.] + +{32} + +NYMPHS AND THEIR +CONSTRUCTION + +NYMPHS + +Nymphs are larvae of all aquatic insects. Together with minnows, +crawfish, etc., they represent about ninety per cent of the trout's +regular diet. Considering this fact, it is obvious that nymphs will take +trout throughout the entire season. It will greatly surprise the novice +to learn of the great amount of underwater insect life present in any +stream. Next time you go fishing, hold your landing net close to the +bottom, in a foot or so of fast water. Reach upstream and loosen the +stones and gravel. Raise your landing net, and notice the numerous +nymphs that have been washed from under the stones, and have attached +themselves to your net. Better still, make a screen about two feet +square, from regular 14 mesh window screening. Hold this in the water, +and have your fishing partner go upstream, and with a regular garden +rake, or some such tool, rake up the bottom, turning over the stones and +gravel. This way you can capture many nymphs. Put them in glass +bottles, take them home, and make copies of them. When next you {33} go +fishing open the first trout you catch, examine the contents of its +stomach, and determine which of the copies you have made is the proper +nymph or fly for the occasion. To fish with an imitation of the fly or +nymph upon which they are feeding, will result in a heavier creel. + +When nymph fishing it is important to use a long, finely tapered leader. +A 4x is about right. Fish in the same waters, and very much the same way +as with a dry fly except that the nymph is allowed to sink. Fish +upstream, or up and across the current. In the ripples. Around boulders. +At the edge of fast water. Let the nymph drift with the current. Follow +it with your rod tip, and be prepared to set the hook at the least +hesitation of the line. Trout will sometimes take a drifting nymph and +eject it, without being felt on the most delicate rod, so be ever on the +alert when nymph fishing. A nymph fished down stream, and retrieved with +slow, short jerks, will often work very well. When fished in this +manner, trout will strike quite hard, and usually hook themselves. + +There are times when trout are rolling on the surface and it seems +impossible to take them on anything. It is then that they are usually +feeding on nymphs, just under the surface. I remember one such time on +the Housatonic River in Connecticut last summer. Just at dark, I was +standing knee deep in very fast water. Trout {34} were breaking all +around me. I knew, they were feeding on nymphs, and tried in every way +to catch them. The water was so fast, it was impossible to keep the +nymph just the right depth below the surface. I tried every trick that +I knew, but could not get a strike. Finally reaching my hand in my +pocket, I discovered several large buckshot. Removing the nymph from the +tip of the leader, I attached five of these large shots, to the very tip +of the leader, with a piece of 3x gut tippet about four inches long. I +connected the nymph to the leader about sixteen inches from the tip. +Within the next few minutes I took several nice trout, within rod's +length of where I was standing. What actually happened, the lead was so +heavy that it immediately sank straight to the bottom, and my taut line +held the nymph suspended about two inches below the surface. The short +gut between the nymph and the leader allowed the nymph to quiver much as +the natural was doing. All the various common nymphs can be faithfully +copied, by learning to tie the various styles of those herein +illustrated. Simply alter the sizes, and color combinations, according +to those found in the waters where you fish. + +Remember nearly all the nymphs have flat bodies, and dark backs. The +bodies may be flattened by thoroughly lacquering them, and when nearly +dried squeezing them flat with an ordinary pair of pliers; or by {35} +cutting a piece of quill the shape of the body from a turkey or goose +wing. Bind this on top of the hook for the foundation of the body, and +build the body over this. When finished, lacquer the entire body. + +Most any body materials that are used for the making of other flies can +be used; however, wool is mostly used for nymphs. Silk floss wound over +a quill foundation and then lacquered, makes a very smooth, realistic +body. + + +{36} + +[Illustration: Diagram 6. Page sized diagram showing drawings of nymph +construction.] + + +THEIR CONSTRUCTION +(SEE DIAGRAM 6) + +Start tying silk (A) an eighth of an inch from the eye of the hook and +wind closely down shank, as previously done with bucktails, wet flies +etc. Next cut a section (B) from a grey goose wing feather about one +eighth inch wide, and tie on top of the hook as Fig. 1. This is to make +the tail and also the back of the nymph. Bend (B) back and take a turn +or two with (A) in front as Fig. 2. Tie in the ribbing (c) close to (B) +Fig. 3. Next tie in body material (D) close to (C) Fig. 4. Wool yarn +makes the best body material for this style nymph. Now finish the body +as for a wet fly, Fig. 5, then pull (B) tightly over the top, finish off +as Fig. 6. This makes a sort of hard shell over the back. Next turn the +hook upside down in the vise, and lay {37} three horse hairs across, just +in back of where the head is to be made, crisscross (A) between the hairs +to spread them and make them look like legs, and your nymph should look +like Fig. 7. Nymphs of this style as well as Figs. 8, 9, 10, 14 and 15 +look more natural if the bodies are flattened. Fig. 8 is tied nearly the +same as Fig. 7, the difference being that (C) and (D) are both wound +over (B) about two-thirds of the length of the body, then (B) is turned +back, the body finished as before, (B) brought forward loosely to form +the humpbacked wing case, and (B) being cut off as was done with Fig. 6, +and instead of the butt end of (B) being cut off as was done with Fig. +6 it is split by crisscrossing (A) through it to form small wings as +Fig. 8. Fig. 9 is made in the same way except that several strands of +peacock herl is used for the dark back, tail, and feelers. + +Fig. 10 is a very effective nymph, the body made entirely of natural +raffia (soaked in water before using), with black hair used for the tail +and feelers The body coated with lacquer as before mentioned and pressed +flat when dry; paint the back with dark brown or black lacquer. + +Fig. 11 is made by close wound palmer hackle cut off on dotted +lines. Fig. 12 is a fur body, made by spinning rabbit's fur or +other fur on waxed tying silk and ribbing with gold; the tougher +this nymph looks the more effective it seems to be. Fig. 13, the +Caddis {38} worm can be more naturally reproduced with a common rubber +band than any other way I know. Get a dirty, white, rubber band +about 1/8" wide, taper one end for about 1/2". Lay two horse hairs +lengthwise on top of the hook for the feelers, wind tying silk over them +down the hook, tie in the rubber band by the very tip of the taper, wind +the tying silk back to the starting point, and be sure that the tying +silk is wound smoothly. If not, any roughness will show through the +rubber band. Wind the rubber band tightly to about 1/4" back of the eye. +Wind back down and take one turn under the horsehair at the tail end, +wind up to the head and tie off with the tying silk. This now makes +three thicknesses of the rubber band. Form a large head with the tying +silk, fasten securely and you have a very realistic Caddis worm. Fig. 14 +is tied about the same as Fig. 7, with a considerable amount of speckled +mallard, and peacock herl used for both the front and back feelers as +well as the legs. + +Fig. 15. The Damsel Nymph has a body of dark grey wool with a back of +dark brown or black lacquer. Wings, small red-brown wood duck breast +feathers, feelers dark brown hackle, and a large black head. + +{39} + +THE HELGRAMITE +(SEE DIAGRAM 7) + +The Helgramite Nymph, larva of the Dobson Fly, is such an excellent bass +and trout food, that the making of this nymph deserves special mention. +As my personal way of making this particular nymph differs considerably +from those previously explained, I consider it advisable to go into +further details concerning the construction of this pattern. + +I personally like the winged style. That is, with small imitation wings +and horns, or feelers. This represents the nymph in its final underwater +stage, just before emerging from the water as the Dobson Fly. I find +black skunk tail the most satisfactory material for the body of this +nymph. Either light grey swan sides, or light grey pigeon breast +feathers for the wing and legs. + + +{40} + +[Illustration: Diagram 7. Page sized diagram showing drawings of +helgramite construction.] + + +First wind the waxed tying silk up the shank of the hook beginning +opposite the barb. Clip the fibers closely from a couple of hackle +feathers. These are to form the horns. Bind these hackle quills +to the top of the hook, so that the tip ends project about 1 1/2" +in front of the eye. Take a bunch of black skunk tail about the +size of a match and bind it to the top of the hook, with tip ends +towards the eye of the hook as in Diagram 7, Fig. 1. Next fold the hair +forward and bind down tightly as in Fig. 2. Again fold the hair back and +tie down as in {41} Fig. 3. Then again as in Fig. 4. Notice that each +time the hair is folded back upon itself and tied down, that it forms a +segment of the body, and that each segment increases in size, until your +nymph looks like Fig. 5. At this stage turn the nymph over and tie a piece +of light grey feather about 1/8" wide across the bottom, separate the +fibers with the tying silk to form the legs. Now cut a small light grey +pigeon feather with the centre quill, as dotted line in Fig. 6. Give this +a coat of clear lacquer: when dry, tie flat, on the back of the nymph to +form the first set of wings, as in Fig. 7. Cut another feather and treat +the same way, tie these slightly forward of the first set of wings, and +you have a Dobson Nymph that is very lifelike in appearance. + +{42} + +BASS FLIES +AND FEATHER STREAMERS + +It will appear obvious from a study of Diagram 8, page (43) that the +tying of bass flies and Feather Streamers differs so little from the +tying of wet flies and bucktails that a detailed description will be +unnecessary. + +Bass flies are little more than large trout lies, the +principal difference being the feathers that are used for the wings +although the same feathers can be used as for trout flies. It is +customary with commercial tiers to use two whole feathers for the wings, +or the tips of two wings feathers, etc. Place the concave sides together +and tie in the butt ends the same as for a wet fly. Bass flies to be +used as spinner flies, that is, flies to be used with a spinner in +front, should be tied on ring eyed hooks instead of hooks with turned +down or turned up eyes. + + +{43} + +[Illustration: Diagram 8. Page sized diagram showing drawings of bass +flies.] + + +{44} + +[Illustration: Page sized photograph of flies tied by the author.] + + +Certain patterns of these flies have for a long time been famous as +salmon flies in northern New England and Canada and the past few years +have seen them steadily growing in popularity with anglers of +Connecticut, especially for Rainbow Trout. The feathers {45} that are +used for wings are saddle hackles, and from four to eight feathers are +used, hackles of the same size are selected, the tip ends placed even, +and the concave sides of those used for the left side are placed next to +the concave sides of those used for the right side, in other words, both +the right and left side of the wing will be convex, or outside of the +feather. Any of the standard pattern flies can be tied as streamers. +Some of the patterns however, are very elaborate flies; the Supervisor, +for instance, has wings of light blue with shorter feathers of green on +each side, with peacock herl along each wing, polar bear hair, jungle +cock shoulders, a silver body, and a red tag. This fly was developed a +few years ago by Mr. Joseph Stickney, Supervisor of Wardens, State of +Maine, to imitate the smelt, a natural salmon food. The original Supervisor +did not have the jungle cock or the peacock heal. Mr. Stickney suggested +the addition of these feathers to me last year, and I believe that this +is now the approved dressing. + + +{46} + +[Illustration: Page sized photograph of feather streamers tied by +the author.] + + +{47} + +FAMOUS BUCKTAIL AND +FEATHER STREAMERS + +SUPERVISOR: WINGS, Blue saddle hackle with polar bear hair, and +peacock herl down each side. CHEEKS, green hackle tip and jungle +cock. BODY silver. TAG, red wool. + +TIGER: (light) WINGS, brownish yellow bucktail or red squirrel +tail. BODY yellow chenille. TAG, gold. TAIL, barred wood duck. +CHEEKS, jungle cock. THROAT, scarlet. + +TIGER: (dark) WINGS, yellow bucketful. BODY peacock herl. TAG, gold. +TAIL, barred wood duck. CHEEKS, jungle cock. Short red fin. + +GREGG'S DEMON: WINGS, grizzly saddle hackle dyed brown. BODY, silver +ribbed with gold. CHEEKS, jungle cock. TAIL, barred wood duck. TOPPING, +golden pheasant crest. HACKLE, Orange. + +JUNGLE PRINCESS: WINGS grizzly saddle hackle dyed yellow with +large jungle cock. CHEEKS, blue chatterer. BODY gold tinsel. +HACKLE, white. + +GRIZZLY GREY: WINGS, grizzly saddle hackles. CHEEKS, jungle cock. +TAIL, orange. BODY, silver tinsel. HACKLE, white bucktail. + +{48} + +HIGHLAND BELLE: WINGS orange saddle hackles inside, grizzly saddle +hackles outside. CHEEKS, jungle cock. BODY, gold tinsel ribbed with +silver tinsel. HACKLE, white bucktail. + +SPENCER BAY SPECIAL: WINGS blue saddle hackles inside with furnace +saddle hackles outside. CHEEKS, jungle cock. TAIL, golden pheasant +tippet. BODY, silver tinsel ribbed with oval silver tinsel. HACKLE, +yellow and blue mixed. + +BLACK GHOST: WINGS, white saddle hackle. BODY, black silk floss ribbed +with silver. CHEEKS, jungle cock. HACKLE, yellow. + +GREY GHOST: WINGS, grey saddle hackle with peacock herl and white +bucktail. BODY, orange floss ribbed with gold. CHEEKS, silver pheasant +feather and jungle cock. + +BROWN GHOST: WINGS, brown saddle hackle. BODY, brown floss ribbed +with gold. CHEEKS, jungle cock. TOPPING, golden pheasant crest. +TAIL, golden pheasant crest. HACKLE, yellow. + +WARDEN'S WORRY: WINGS one red and one grizzly saddle hackle. HACKLE, +yellow, tied very full. + +WHITE MARIBOU: WINGS, white caribou. CHEEKS, large jungle cock and +small red feather. TOPPING, golden pheasant crest. + +YELLOW MARIBOU: WINGS, yellow caribou. CHEEKS, large Jungle cock +and small red feather. TOPPING peacock herl. Two complete caribou +feathers can be used, or sections of the feathers, depending upon +the size of the hook. Size 4 long shank hook is a good size to tie +them for salmon. + +{49} + +FLOATING BUGS AND THEIR +CONSTRUCTION + +A style of fishing becoming more popular each year is that of Fly Rod +fishing with Floating Bugs. These Bugs represents the large moth, +butterfly, etc., and are constructed of a large variety of materials. +Some have cork bodies. Some have Balsa Wood bodies. Others all hair +bodies. Bodies covered with chenille, and other materials. One of the +easiest to make and I believe one of the most successful styles, is +entirely constructed from the body hair of the deer, reindeer, or +caribou. All of these hairs are rather coarse and hollow consequently +are very buoyant, and when properly made into a copy of the living +insect, they have a soft, lifelike body that appears very natural when +taken by a fish. These soft bodied Bugs are not so apt to be ejected +before the Angler has time to set the hook, as are those with hard +bodies. + + +{50} + +[Illustration: Page sized diagram showing bass bugs tied by the author.] + + +Although the object of this book is to teach the Angler how to tie +his own flies a few words in regards to the writer's personal +experiences in using these Bugs might not be amiss at this time. +Floating Bugs are mostly tied on large size hooks and generally used for +{51} bass. However, I have had a great deal of luck and many pleasant +experiences with them tied as small as a #14 Model Perfect hook, and +used with a 4x Leader. The small sizes will take many large trout, and +are readily accepted by all pan fish. When fishing in still waiters with +the Floating Bugs, whether it be for bass, pickerel, trout or pan fish I +use a light leader, treated so that it will sink. I cast to a likely +looking spot, beside an old stump along lily pads, or to an opening in +the lily pads themselves. I let the Bug hit the water with quite a +splash, as a living moth of the same size would, and there I let +it lie, absolutely motionless, as though stunned by the blow. By all +means do not be impatient, let the Bug lie perfectly still for two or +three minutes, and then simply move the tip of your rod just enough to +cause the Bug to quiver on the surface. Again let it lie perfectly still +for a minute or two; usually about the second time the Bug is made to +quiver you can expect a strike, and when a big bass comes after one of +these Bugs, he comes full of action. When fishing fast water, I fish +them exactly as I would a dry fly, upstream or up and across the +current. My personal choice for color is the natural brownish grey body +hair from either the deer, reindeer, or caribou. Wings, tail and body +all the same natural color. I tie this pattern from size 2/0 Model +perfect hook down to size 14, and us {52} the larger sizes for bass +and pickerel, and the smaller sizes for trout and pan fish. I +remember one very pleasant experience that happened in northern +Maine three years ago. There is a small, deep, spring fed lake of +about ten acres in area, completely surrounded by wilderness; this +lake had been stocked with, Rainbow Trout and closed to all fishing +for five years. I was fortunate in being there about two months after +it had been opened to fishing and was invited to try my luck, after +first being advised that although some very nice catches were regularly +being taken on a Streamer Fly fished deep, also on live bait and worms +with a spinner, no one had even been able to take fish on the surface. +I arrived at this lake about one hour before dark, and it was one of +those evenings when the water was actually boiling with rising trout. +In fact never before or since have I seen so many fish breaking water +at the same time. I immediately made up my mind to take fish on the +surface. I began fishing with a small spider, and changed fly after fly +for the next half hour with the same results as had been experienced by +other dry fly fishermen. In desperation and with darkness fast approaching +I tied on a size 4 Grey Bug and cast about thirty feet from shore. The Bug +hit the water with quite a splash and didn't even as much as put down one +fish, and several continued to {53} rise from within a few inches to a few +feet from where the Bug landed. I waited a couple of minutes and gave the +Bug a little twitch, nothing happened, again I twitched and again nothing +happened. I began to believe I was stumped when again the Bug was moved +ever so slightly for the fifth time, and remember this was at least seven +minutes after it first hit the water. A fish struck. In a few minutes I +landed a 2 1/4 pound Rainbow. Before darkness had brought the day to a +close I had landed three more beautiful Rainbows averaging 2 pounds +each. I had never since had the opportunity to fish in this beautiful +little lake. Some day I hope to return, and again try, and I believe +succeed in taking these beautiful Rainbow Trout on the conventional +dry fly. However, this one little experience proved conclusively to +me the absolute necessity of patience in fishing Floating Bugs. + +FLOATING BUGS: +THEIR CONSTRUCTION +(SEE DIAGRAM 9) + +First let us begin by making the most simple; that is, one that has the +Body, Wings, and Tail, all of the same material and color. Follow the +illustrations carefully and even your first attempt will be a +masterpiece. + +{54} + +Although I use well waxed 00 tying silk, you will find that regular +sewing silk size A will work best on your first attempt. First wax your +thread thoroughly and take a few turns around the shank of the hook and +tie in a small bunch of hairs for the tail, as in Diagram 9, Fig. 1, +page (55). We will assume that we are using regular deer hair cut from +the hide. Next clip a small bunch of hairs, about the size of a match, +close to the hide. You will notice there is some fuzz mixed with the +hair at the base close to the skin, pick out the fuzz and place the +butts of the hairs under the hook as in Fig. 2, Take a couple of loose +turns with the tying silk, hold the tips of the hair with the thumb and +finger of the left hand, and pull the tying silk down tight. You will +notice that the hairs spin around the hook and the butt ends will stand +out pretty much at right angles to the hook, as in Fig. 3. Cut off the +tip end of the hairs on the dotted line, press the hairs back tightly, +apply a drop of water-proof lacquer to the base of the hairs and the +hook, and repeat the same process of tying on a small bunch of hair, +each time pressing it back tightly. Remember this is important, because +the hair must be as close together as possible to make a firm, smooth, +buoyant body. + + +{55} + +[Illustration: Diagram 9. Page sized diagram showing drawings of bass +bug construction.] + + +When you have built the body up until it looks something like +Fig. 4, remove it from the vise and with a sharp pair of scissors +trim and shape it until it looks {56} like Figs. 5 and 6. At this stage +you should have 3/16" of the shank of the hook left just behind the eye, +where you will tie on the wings. Cover this bare hook with the well waxed +tying silk, and lay a bunch of hair on top of the hook for wings as Fig. +7. Crisscross the tying silk around the wings and the hook until they +are securely tied together. Place several coats of lacquer over he +junction of the wings and hook, to more securely bind them in place. +Lacquer the entire wings if you wish and when they have partially dried, +press them flat, spread them, trim them as Fig. 8, and your Bug is +completed. + +Any combination of color may be used, different colored wings and tail, +different colored rings in the body. White body with red tail and wings +is a good pattern. Yellow body, black wings and tail another. Various +feather combinations can be used for wings and tall. Create your own +designs, and develop your patterns. + +CORK BODIED BASS BUGS +(SEE DIAGRAM 10) + +These high floaters are easy to make and may be tied on most any size +hook desired. Kinked shank hooks should be used to prevent the body +from turning on the {57} hook. Colored lacquer or enamel can be used to +decorate the bodies, and eyes can be either painted on, or regular small +glass eyes inserted and held in place with water-proof glue or lacquer. +Any of the fancy feathers that are used for regular bass flies can be +used for wings. Hair or feathers can be used for tails, etc. Let us +first make one of these cork bodied Bugs on a size 1/0 hook. Take a 1/2" +cork cylinder and with a razor blade shape it roughly as Diagram 10, +Figs. 1 and 2. Then with a piece of 00 sandpaper held in the right hand +and the cylinder in the left it is a very simple matter to give the body +a nice smooth, shapely finish. Next cut a small V out of the body as in +Fig. 3. This is easier to fit to the hook and easier to cement securely +than simply making a slit in the cork. Press the V slit over the hook as +in Fig. 4. Apply cement or lacquer liberally to the inside of the V +slot, and to the hook shank. Press the piece that was removed securely +back into place, bind tightly with string, as in Fig. 5, and let set +over night. Next day when the cement has thoroughly dried and the body +is permanently fastened to the hook, remove the string and with the +sandpaper touch up any rough places on the body, and give a coat of +lacquer or enamel of the desired color. + + +{58} + +[Illustration: Diagram 10. Page sized diagram showing drawings of cork +bodied bass bug construction.] + + +When the body enamel has dried, take a pair of feathers for wings (whole +feathers that have the quill in the centre, same as are used for regular +bass fly wings are best), and with the {59} tying silk bind these fast to +the top side of the shoulders as in Fig. 6. Tie on a tail close to the +body, paint on the eyes, paint any other color or designs you wish on +the body, and the Bug is completed. + +{60} + +[Illustration: Diagram 11. Page sized diagram showing drawings of angler's +knots.] + + +{61} + +ANGLER'S KNOTS + +Figs. 1, 2 and 3 in Diagram 11, page (60) show a very convenient way to +tie a dropper loop in the leader; roll the gut between thumb and finger +at (A) Fig. 1, next invert loop (B) through (C) Figs. 2 and 3. + +Figs. 4, 5, and 6 make the best knot for or a loop in the end of a +leader, gut snells etc. Pull loop (C) through loop (B) Figs. 5 and 6. + +Figs. 7, 8, and 9 are about the easiest and most secure knots for +making leaders, the ends are in the centre of the finished knot and +can be clipped close. + +Figs. 10, 11, and 12, the figure eight knot, is the best for tying flies +to the leader, it won't slip, and the pull is in line with the hook +shank. + +{62} + +MY FAVORITE FLIES + +Quite frequently I am asked which fly I like the best, or which +particular patterns I would choose should I carry only a few flies with +me on a trip. That is rather a difficult question to answer. The +season, the type of fishing and location must be taken into +consideration. + +There must be some reason for so many hundreds of patterns. I hardly +believe that any half dozen patterns can be used with constant success +throughout the season, even in one particular locality. There are times, +when fish are feeding, that they will take anything; again one may +change fly after fly without success, when finally a fly will be tried +that will take fish on every cast. Suppose that particular fly wasn't +included in the chosen few, the answer is obvious. + +However, I will endeavor to choose six patterns each of the various +styles, and to give my reasons for their choice, but here I assure you +there will always be many more patterns in my fly box for further trial, +after I have exhausted my favorite six. + +Beginning with dry flies, my first choice would be {63} a Quill Gordon, +on a size 16 hook. This fly closely represents the numerous duns that +are on or about the water, to some extent, during the entire season. I +have little faith in color in the dry fly, except light or dark shades. +I do believe that the size and shape have a great deal more to do with +the success of a dry fly than color. I have proven to my own +satisfaction that a Quill Gordon sparsely dressed as it should be, but +tied with a black hackle and yellow mallard wings, is just as successful +as the customary dressing. + +My second choice would be the Red Ant. Although this fly belongs to the +order Hymenoptera, it can be used when many of the Diptera order are on +the water, such as Cowdung, Blue bottle, Bee, etc. This family all have +flat wings and make an entirely different appearance than the +aforementioned Quill Gordon. I tie the Red Ant on a size 14 hook. I +build the body first of red silk floss, shape it like the body of an +ant, give it a couple of coats of clear lacquer and let it dry hard and +shiny. This body will reflect light, much as the natural insect. I then +tie on two hackle tips for wings. Have them about as long as the hook, +spread them so they are at about a 30 degree angle from the body +and very flat. I then use a brown saddle hackle with fibers about +3/4" long for legs. I put on only two or three turns of the hackle, +and then clip off all of the top and bottom hackles, leaving only +about six fibers sticking {64} straight out on each side. This fly will +float very close to the water, and because of its sparse dressing, +slightly heavy body because of the lacquer, it is not a good floater. It +also has the disadvantage of being hard to see. However, it is still my +second choice, and properly dressed, and fished with a very fine leader, +will take many nice fish. + +My third choice is the Fan Wing Royal Coachman. This fly was never +supposed to represent any particular family but I believe it is taken by +fish for the Lepidoptera, large-winged moths and butterflies. It seems +to be very successful when these are about in the evening. + +My fourth choice is the Furnace Spider. This fly I tie on a size 16 +short shank hook, by winding only about three turns of a furnace saddle +hackle, with fibers about three fourths of an inch long. Tied in this +manner, without any body or tail, the fly will alight on the water with +the hook down, and looked at from beneath, against the light, only the +little black spot will be noticeable. This I believe represents some of +the order Coleoptera (beetles) and also the small black gnat (Empidae). +I know if no other ways to tie the Black Gnat small enough to represent +the natural insect, and even on the very smallest hook, the artificial +is usually many times larger than the natural. The small black centre +of the furnace saddle hackle tied in this manner seems to represent +the size of the natural very {65} closely. This fly is a very good +floater and an excellent fly when trout are feeding on those small +insects. + +My fifth choice is the Grannon. This fly is of the order of Trihoptera, +and has different shaped wings than any of those previously mentioned, +the wings being quite full and roof shaped. It is on the water a good +part of the season, and can be used when other flies with this shape +wing are about, such as the alder fly, cinnamon fly, etc. + +My next and sixth choice of dry fly would be the Brown Palmer, made on a +size 12 long shank hook with a full body of peacock herl, and palmer +hackle, wound not too full. This I believe is taken by the trout for +many of the caterpillars. + +My personal choice of these six patterns should now appear quite +obvious, should it be necessary for me to limit myself to such a small +selection. I have selected one each of the six most prominent orders, +and should any one of the hundreds of families of these orders be in +prominence on the water, I would at least have the correct size or +color. + +My choice of the standard pattern wet flies, Feather Streamers, Bucktail +Streamers, and nymphs would be a little more difficult. I am a firm +believer that color plays a very important part in the dressing of wet +flies, as well as size and style. I offer my personal choice of these +styles because of the consistency with which they {66} have taken fish +for me during many years of fishing all parts of the country. + +I do not hesitate to say that I have taken more trout, of all kinds, on +a brown hackle with peacock herl body, than any of the other common wet +fly patterns. This is probably because I have used it more. I do believe +that in the north, and especially for brook trout, a fly with a little +red in it is more productive. Therefore, for northern fishing I would +select Royal Coachman, Parmachene Belle, and Montreal. Other favorite +flies that are good most anywhere in North America are Grizzly King, +Queen O'Waters; Cahill, and Grey Hackle. + +Feather Streamers and Hair Streamers are being more extensively used +each year. Many authorities are of firm conviction that these flies +unquestionably represent small minnows, upon which the fish are in the +habit of feeding. This may be true, but I have seen many rubber, metal +and composition minnows, that were exact replicas of the naturals, both +as to color and size, and they would not take fish as would the Feather +or Hair Streamers, fished in the same waters at the same time. + +Most of my experience with Feather Streamers and also Hair Streamers +has been for Landlocked Salmon and Rainbow Trout, in big waters. +So I will list these according to the way they have produced for +me. The {67} Black Ghost on a #4 long shank hook has been my most +successful Feather Streamer. Probably because its white streamers are +easily seen by the fish. It will most always raise fish, even if not +the proper fly to make them strike. The Grey Ghost is another, and +one of the most popular streamers in the North for Landlocked Salmon. +This fly, as well as the Supervisor, Spencer Bay Special and numerous +other flies of this style, were originally designed by their creators +to represent the smelt, a favorite food of the salmon. These flies +vary so in their color combinations that I wonder what the fish do +take them for. However, I do know that a Grey Ghost will work when +a Supervisor will not, and vice versa. One is grey and the other +is blue. When fishing in lakes with a Feather Streamer for trout I have +consistently had most luck with a creation of my own, Gregg's Demon. +This fly was never tied to represent anything, but I have taken many +nice fish on it, and have seen little fellows hardly as long as the fly +itself chase it, and try their best to bite it in two. There is just +something about it that has "fish appeal." + +A Brown Bucktail with a silver body on a #6 3x long shank hook rates +number one in Bucktail streamers. Another excellent fly that has been a +favorite for years, is a Yellow and Red Bucktail, with a silver body, +the red only a narrow streak through the centre. This fly has recently +been named "Mickey Finn." A red and {68} white, with silver or gold body +is a real good pattern where there are brook trout, and tied on a large +hook is very good for bass. + +I use one with all white bucktail and silver body, the same as I do a +Black Ghost, for locating fish. I find they will most always show their +presence, one way or another when a white fly is cast near them. + +An all yellow with black streak in the centre same as the "Mickey Finn" +is another very good combination. This is an excellent pickerel and bass +fly. In fact, most any of these Feather Streamers and Bucktail Streamers +tied on larger hooks, and used with or without a spinner, are excellent +lures for both bass and pickerel. + +Nymphs: I have explained elsewhere my liking these lures, and can say +little more except that I always carry the following color combinations +in various sizes. All tied according to styles illustrated in the +diagrams. Cream Belly with Dark Back; Yellow Belly with Black Ribs and +Dark Back; Green Belly with Dark Back; Grey Belly and Gold Ribs with +Dark Back; Brown Belly and Gold Ribs with Black Back; Orange Belly and +Black Ribs with Dark Back. + +{69} + +STANDARD DRESSINGS OF 334 FLIES +ALPHABETICALLY ARRANGED + +[Transcriber's Note: Some of the names are not in strict +alphabetical order.] + +[Transcriber's Note: The dressing of each fly is described in the +following order: + + NAME + TAG + TAIL + RIBS + BODY + HACKLE + WINGS] + + Abbey + None + Orange & black + Gold + Red Floss + Brown + Grey Mottled (mallard) + + Adams + Gold + Golden tippet + None + Grey Wool + Brown and grizzly + Grey Mottled (mallard) + + Alexandra + None + Peacock herl + None + Silver + Black + Peacock sward and jungle cock + + Alder + None + None + None + Peacock herl + Black + Dark speckled Turkey or Grouse + + Apple Green + None + Brown + None + Green Silk + Brown + Dark Grey + + Ash Dun + None + Grey + None + Silver Grey + Grey + Lt. Starling + + August Dun + None + Redish + Yellow + Lt. Brown Floss + Redish Brown + Hen Pheasant + + Autumn Dun + None + Black + Yellow + Black + Grey + Teal Breast + + Babcock + None + Black and Yellow + Gold + Cardinal Red + Black + Black and Yellow + + Barrington + None + Grey Speckled + None + Peacock Herl + Brown + Grey Speckled + + Beauty + None + None + Silver + Black + Badger + Spotted Golden + + Beaverkill + Gold + Grey Speckled + None + White Floss + Brown tied palmer + Grey + + Bee + Gold + None + None + Black & Yellow chenille + Brown + Brown + + Belgrade + Peacock herl + Scarlet and white + None + Yellow + Claret tied palmer + Red, white and jungle cock + + Blue Rooster + None + Tan mottled wood duck + None + Condor Quill + Blue Andalusian + Tan mottled wood duck + + Blue Bi-visible + None + None + None + Blue floss + Blue tied palmer + None + + Black Bi-visible + None + None + None + Black floss + Black, tied palmer + None + + Blue Winged Olive + None + Brown + None + Green + Golden Brown + Blue dun hackle tips + + {70} + + Blue Professor + Gold + Scarlet + Gold + Blue floss + Ginger + Grey speckled + + Black Nymph + None + Brown mottled + None + Black herl + Partridge + None + + Brown Nymph + None + Brown mottled + None + Brown herl + Partridge + None + + Br. Bi-Visible + None + None + Silver or None + Brown + Brown + None + + Brown Spider + None + None + None + Brown + Brown + None + + Black Spider + None + None + None + Black + Black + None + + Brown Dun + None + Brown + None + Brown + Brown + Starling + + Black Midge + None + None + None + Black + Black + None + + Black Prince + Silver + Scarlet + Silver + Black floss + Black + Black + + Blue Dun + None + Pale blue hackle + None + Pale blue fur + Pale blue dun + Blue grey + + Blue Bottle + White silk + None + Black or Gold + Steel blue silk or dk. blue chenille + None + None + + Black Gnat + Gold + None + None + Black Chenille + Black + Grey + + Black Hackle + Gold + None + None + Black Chenille + Black + None + + Blue Upright + None + Pale blue hackle + None + Pale blue fur + Pale blue dun + Blue Grey + + Brown Hackle + Gold + Golden tippet + None + Peacock herl + Brown + None + + Brown Palmer + Gold + Golden tippet + None + Peacock herl + Brown tied palmer + None + + Brown Hen + Red Silk + None + None + Peacock herl + Brown + Brown mottled + + Blue Quill + None + Blue dun hackle + None + Quill + Blue Dun + Blue Grey + + Black and Silver + None + Golden tippet + None + Silver + Black + Black + + Black and Claret + None + Golden tippet + Silver + Claret Wool + Black + Black + + Black June + None + None + Silver + Peacock herl + Black + Dark Grey + + Black Moose + None + Green and Yellow + None + Green + Black tied palmer + Guinea + + Black Quill + None + Black + None + Quill + Black + Dark Grey + + Black Ant + Black chenille + None + None + Black Silk + Black + Slate + + {71} + + Blue and Black + None + Golden tippet + None + Black + Black + None + + Blue Jay + Gold + Scarlet + Gold + Red + Red + Blue Jay + + Blue Quill + None + Blue Dun + None + Quill + Blue Dun + Grey + + Bonnie View + Gold + Grey + Gold + Olive Brown + Brown + Grey + + Boots Black + Gold + Speckled + Gold + Red Wool + Black + Black + + Bandreth + Gold + Scarlet + Gold + Yellow + Scarlet and yellow + Grey speckled + + Brown Adder + Red + Black & Br. mottled + None + Brown silk + Brown, tied palmer + Black and brown mottled + + Brown Sedge + Gold + None + Gold + Brown Silk + Brown + Brown + + Bustard and Black + Silver + Golden tippet + Silver + Black Wool + Black + None + + Bustard and Orange + Gold + Golden tippet + Gold + Orange Wool + Orange + None + + Butcher + None + Scarlet + None + Silver + Black + Blue black + + Caddis + Gold + Grey + Gold + Brown Silk + Brownish Red + Grey + + Cahill, Dark + Gold + Tan Mottled + None + Grey Wool or Fur + Brown + Tan mottled wood duck + + Cahill, Light + Gold + Tan Mottled + None + Buff Wool + Ginger + Tan Mottled + + Cahill Quill + None + Tan Mottled + None + Quill + Grey + Tan Mottled + + Canada + Gold + Claret + Gold + Bright Red + Brown + Mottled Turkey + + Carpenter + None + None + None + Rusty red wool + Red + Hen Pheasant + + Cardinal + Gold + Red + Gold + Red Wool + Light red + Red + + Claret Gnat + None + None + None + Claret Wool + Claret + Dark Grey + + Cinnamin + None + Golden tippet + Gold + Lemon & Black Wool + Brown + Cinnamon + + Coachman + Gold + Golden tippet + None + Peacock Herl + Brown + White + + Coachman Leadwing + Gold + Golden tippet + None + Peacock Herl + Brown + Dark Grey + + Cock-y-bondhu + Gold + None + Gold + Peacock Herl + Furnace + None + + Col. Fuller + None + Black and yellow + Yellow silk + Scarlet + Yellow + Yellow and scarlet + + {72} + + Cow Dung + None + None + None + Dirty orange herl or yel. green wool + Brown + Grey + + Critchley Fancey + Gold + Yellow + Gold + Yellow + Yellow and grey + Grizzly and scarlet + + Cupsuptic + None + Golden tippet + Silver + Red Silk Floss + Brown + Yellow + + Dark Sedge + None + None + Gold Wire + Dk. Green Wool + Blood Red + None + + Dark Stone + None + None + Yellow Silk + Grey Wool + Grey + Dark Grey + + Dr. Breck + None + Grey Speckled + None + Silver + Scarlet + White and Scarlet + + Dorset + None + Furnace + None + Green Wool + Furnace + Teal + + Downlooker + None + None + None + Brown Floss + Brown, tied palmer + Brown and black mottled turkey + + Deer Fly + None + Black + None + Bright Green + White + White + + Dusty Miller + None + Grey speckled + Gold Wire + Grey wool mohair + Grey + Dirty Grey Turkey + + Dark Miller + None + Br. Hackle + Brown Silk + Scarlet + None + Yellow and black + + Emerald + Gold + None + Gold + Lt. Green + t. Brown + Brown Mottled + + Evening Dun + None + Lt. Blue + None + Buff Wool + Lt. Blue + Starling + + Epting + None + Gey speckled + None + Red, orange, & yel. chenille + Black + Grey Speckled + + Female Beaverkill + Yellow chenille + Grey speckled + None + Grey silk or wool + Brown + Dark Grey + + Female Grannon + Green + None + None + Brown Floss + Partridge + Brown mottled partridge + + Fem. March Br. + None + None + Yellow Silk + Dk. brown floss + None + Brown mottled turkey or grouse + + Ferguson + Scarlet yel. and herl + None + None + None + None + Mottled turkey tail, yellow and red + + Fern Fly + None + None + None + Orange Floss + Lt. Red + Dark Starling + + Feted Green + None + Green + None + Green + Green + Green + + {73} + + Fiery Brown + gold + Golden tippet + Gold + Redish brown mohair or wool + R. I. Red + Bronze + + Flights Fancy + None + Ginger + Gold + Pale Yel. Floss + Ginger + Lt. grey + + Francis Fly + None + None + Red Silk + Peacock Herl + None + Grizzly Dun + + Furnace Dun + Gold + Furnace + None + Br. & orange wool + Furnace + Dark Starling + + Furnace Hackle + None + None + None + Peacock Herl + Furnace + None + + Gen. Hooker + None + None + Yellow + Green Floss + Brown + Mottled grey and brown + + Great Dun + Brown hairs + Gold + Gold + Brown Floss + Brown + Dark Grey + + Grey Bi-Visible + None + None + Silver or None + None + Grizzly + None + + Green Nymph + None + Green + Gold + Green Wool + Green + None + + Grey Spider + None + None + None + Grey + Grizzly + None + + Gld. Midge + None + None + Gold + Pale Green + Dun + None + + Great Dun + Gold + Brown Hairs + Gold + Brown Silk + Brown + Dark Grey + + Ginger Palmer + Silver + None + Silver + Yellow or ginger floss + Ginger, tied palmer + None + + Ginger Quill + None + Ginger + None + Quill + Ginger + Lt. Grey + + Golden Dun + Gold + Grey Speckled + Gold + Gold or orange + Red + Lt. Grey + + Golden Dun Midge + Gold + Grey Hairs + Gold + Pale Green Wool + Light Grey + Lt. Grey + + Gold Spinner Gold Eyed + None + Grey Speckled + None + Gold + Red + Dark Grey + + Gold Eyed Gauze Wing + None + Blue Dun + None + Pale yel. and green silk + Blue Dun + Blue dun hackle tips + + Gold Monkey + None + None + None + Yellow Silk Floss + Grey Speckled + Dark Grey + + Gold Ribbed Hare's Ear + Gold + Dark Hairs + Gold + Rabbit's Fur + None + Grey + + + {74} + + Gold Stork + None + Grey speckled + None + Gold + Brown + Grey speckled + + Golden Eyed Gauze Wing + None + None + None + Pale Grey + Pale Grey + Pale Green + + Good Evening + Gold + Orange + Gold + Scarlet + Brown + Dark blue with white tip + + Gordon + Gold + Brown speckled + Gold + Yellow + Grey + Brown speckled wood duck + + Govenor + None + None + None + Peacock Herl + Brown + Brown mottled turkey + + Gov. Alford + None + Scarlet + None + Green Herl + Brown + Black and Brown + + Grannon + None + None + None + Brown fur or wool + Brown or grizzly + Dark Partridge + + Gravelbed + None + None + None + Dark Grey + Black + Woodcock + + Grey Drake + None + Grey Speckled + Black + White Floss + Grey + Grey speckled + + Grey Hackle peacock + None + None + None + Peacock Herl + Grizzly + None + + Grey Hackle + Gold + Golden tippet + None + Red wool or silk + Grizzly + None + + Grey Hackle yellow + Gold + Golden tippet + Yellow wool or silk + Grizzly + None + None + + Grey Marlow + Gold + None + Gold + Red Wool + Grey + Grey + + Grey Miller + None + None + None + Grey Wool + Grey + Grey + + Great Dun + None + Brown and Grey + None + Maroon Purple and Red Floss + Grey or Black + Grey or Black + + Great Red spinner + None + Black and white + Gold + Red Floss + Brown + Slate Grey + + Grey Bodied Ashy + None + Golden tippet + None + Brown, black, or green herl or wool + Grey + None + + Green Drake + None + Brown pheasant + Brown Floss + Raffia or lemon silk + Partridge & ginger + Yellowish Olive + + Green Insect + None + None + None + Green Herl + Green + None + + {75} + + Greenwell's Glory + None + Yellow + Gold + Olive or Yellow + Furnace + Mottled woodcock + + Grizzly King + Gold + Scarlet + Gold + Dark Green + Grizzly + Grey Speckled + + Grouse & Black + Gold + Golden tippet + Gold + Black Fur + Black + Grouse + + Grouse & Claret + Gold + Golden tippet + Gold + Claret mohair or wool + Claret + Grouse + + Grouse & Green + Gold + Golden tippet + Gold + Green Wool + Ginger + Grouse + + Grouse & Orange + Gold + Golden tippet + Gold + Orange Wool + Orange + Grouse + + Grouse & Peacock + Gold + Golden tippet + Gold + Peacock Herl + Dark Red + Grouse + + Grouse & Purple + Gold + Golden tippet + Gold + Purple Wool + Purple + Grouse + + Grouse Spider + None + None + None + Orange Floss + Grouse + Grouse + + Half Stone + None + None + None + Yellow + Honey Dun + Woodcock + + Hazel-Fly + None + None + None + Green Herl + Furnace + None + + Hemsworth + Gold & herl + Golden tippet + None + None + None + None + + Hammond's Adopted + Gold + None + Gold + Lt. Brown + Ginger + Mottled woodcock + + Hare's Ear + None + None + Yellow Silk + Rabbit's fur + Yel. or None + Grey + + Harlequin + None + None + None + Orange and lt. blue wool + Black + Grey + + Hawthorn + None + Black hackle + None + Black ostrich herl + Black + Lt. Grey + + Hen. Guinea + Gold + Scarlet + Gold + Red wool + Red + Guinea Fowl + + Henshall + None + Peacock Herl + None + Peacock Herl + Lt. Grey + Grey Speckled + + Hod + Gold + None + Gold + Pea-Green + Dark Ginger + Hen Pheasant + + Hofland Fancy + None + Brown + None + Red (dark) + Brown + Brown and Yellow + + Hoskins + None + Golden tippet + None + Lemon + Blue Dun + Woodcock + + House Fly + None + None + None + Dun Condor Quill + Black + Dark Starling + + Howell + Gold + Scarlet + Gold + Peacock Herl + Claret + White tip turkey tail + + Ibis and White + Gold + Red & White + Gold + Red floss + Rd/ & White + Red and White + + {76} + + Imbrie + Gold + Golden tippet + Gold + White + Lt. Red + Dark Starling + + Indian Yellow + None + Ginger + Yellow + Lt. Brown + Ginger + Goose + + Iron Blue Dun + None + Yellow + None + None + Blue Dun + Bluish Black + + Iron Blue Quill + None + Blue Dun + None + Quill + Blue Dun lt. + Blue Dun Hkl. Tip + + Iron Blue Nymph + None + Honey Dun + None + None + Honey Dun + None + + July Dun + None + Dun + None + Yellow + Dark Dun + Starling + + Joe Killer + None + Barred woodduck + None + Silver + Short red bucktail + Yel. & white peacock swd. & jungle cock + + Jenni + None + Lavendar or blue + Gold + Yellow floss + Scarlet + Lavendar or lt. blue + + Jock Scott + Black silk + Yellow & Scarlet + White floss + Yellow floss + Grouse & Guinea + Yel. & grey speckled scarlet & jungle cock + + Jennie Spinner + Orange and brown + Cream hackle + None + White horse hair + Silver Blue + Silver blue hackle tips or None + + Jungle Cock + None + Scarlet + Gold or white + Blue grey fur + Claret or blk. + Dark brown and jungle cock + + Katy-did + None + Black Hairs + Gold Wire + Green floss + Green + Green + + King O'Waters + Gold + Grey Speckled + Gold + Red floss + Brown + Grey Speckled + + Kingdon + Gold + None + Green floss + White floss + Dark + Woodcock + + King Fisher + None + None + None + Silver + Lt. Blue + Kingfisher + + Kitson + Gold + Black Hairs + Gold + Yellow + Claret + Yellow with black cheeks + + La Branche + Gold + Grey + Gold + Blue Grey Fur + Blue Dun + Grey + + Lady Doctor + Gold and red wool + Two yellow hackle + None + Yellow Wool + Yel. tied palm. + Polar bear and Black hair and jungle cock + + Lady Beaverkill + Yellow chenile + Grey Speckled + None + Grey (dark) + Brown + Dark Grey + + {77} + + Lake Edward + None + Golden Crest + Gold + Claret Wool + Claret + Pea Green + + Lake George + None + White and scarlet + Gold + Scarlet floss + White + White & Scarlet + + Lake Green + None + None + Green Silk + Canary yellow + Ginger + Teal Breast + + Laramie + None + Scarlet + Silver + Scarlet floss + Dark Blue + Grey Mottled + + Lt. Stone + None + Grey + Yellow Silk + Grey + Grey + Grey + + Little Marryat + None + Brown + None + Lt. grey or herl + Brown + Dark grey + + Ld. Baltimore + None + None + Black Silk + Orange Silk + Black + Black and jungle + + Lowery + None + None + None + Peacock Herl + Brown + Lt. Brown + + Lt. Montreal + Gold + Grey Mottled + Gold + Scarlet + Claret + Grey Speckled + + Lt. March Br. + None + Partridge hackle + None + Olive & Br. fur + Partridge + Lt. mottled partridge + + Magpie + None + Black Hairs + None + Black + Black + Black with whit tip + + Mallard & Amber + Gold + Golden tippet + Gold + Amber floss + Lt. Red + Brown mallard breast + + Mallard & Claret + Gold + Golden tippet + Gold + Claret wool + Lt. Red + Brown mallard breast + + Mallard & Green + Gold + Golden tippet + Gold + Green Wool + Lt. Red + Brown mallard breast + + Mallard & Red + Gold + Golden tippet + Gold + Red wool + Lt. Red + Brown mallard breast + + March Brown + None + Grouse + Yellow Silk + Br. or Grey fur + Grouse + Dark Brown mottled turkey or grouse + + March Br. Ginger + None + Ginger + None + Brown fur + Ginger + Dark Brown mottled turkey or grouse + + March Br. Nymph + None + Partridge + Gold + Yellow wool + Partridge + None + + Markam + None + Scarlet and white + None + Yellow + Scarlet + Dark Brown with white tips + + Marlow Buzz + None + None + Gold + Peacock Herl + Furnace + None + + Marston's Fancy + None + None + None + Brown Fur + Brown + Dark Grey + + Massasaga + Gold + Ibis + Gold + Green floss + Canary Yellow + Canary Yellow + + Maxwell Blue + None + Lt. Blue + Silver + Grey + Lt. Blue + None + + McGinty + None + Grey speckled and scarlet + None + Black and Yel. chenille + Brown + Brown with white tip + + {78} + + Mealy Moth + None + None + Silver + Lt. Grey Wool + White + White + + Mershon + Silver + Black Hairs + Silver + Black + Black + Dark blue with whit tip + + Merson White + None + Black Hairs + None + White + Black + Dark blue + + Mole + None + Brown Hairs + Gold + Dk. brown floss + Brown tied palmer + Brown mottled mallard + + Montreal + Gold + Scarlet + Gold + Claret floss + Claret + Brown mottled turkey tail or grouse + + Montreal Claret + Gold + Claret + Gold + Claret floss + Claret + Brown mottled turkey tail or grouse + + Montreal Silver + None + Scarlet + None + Silver + Claret + Brown mottled turkey tail or grouse + + Montreal Yellow + Gold + Scarlet + Gold + Yellow floss + Claret + Brown mottled turkey tail or grouse + + Morison + None + Black + Black + Claret + Black + Black + + Mowry + None + Black Hairs + None + Black + Black + Black with white tip + + Needle Brown + None + None + None + Orange + Dark Brown + None + + Neversink + None + Black + None + Pale buff wool + Yellow + Teal breast + + New Page + Gold + Gold + speckled + Yellow floss + Brown + Mottled brown and red + + Olive Dun + Gold + Olive Dun + Gold or None + Olive Wool + Olive Dun + Lt. blue grey or olive dun hackle tips + + Olive Quill + None + Olive + None + Quill + Olive + Olive + + Orange & Bk. + Gold + Golden tippet + Gold + Orange Wool + Black + None + + Orange Dun + None + None + None + Orange Wool + Dk. Brown + Lt. Brown + + Olive Nymph + None + Olive + None + Mot. Br. wool + Olive + None + + Orange Miller + None + None + Gold + Orange floss + White + White + + Orange Sedge + None + None + Gold + Orange floss + Brown tied palmer + Red, Brown + + Oriole + None + Yellow + Gold + Black floss + Black + Yellow + + {79} + + Oak + None + Black + None + Orange floss + Brown + Dark grey and Lt. Brown mottled + + Pale Blue Dun + None + Pale Blue + None + Pale Blue Fur + Pale Blue + Pale blue hackle tips or None + + Pale Buff + None + Pale Buff + None + Pale Buff Wool + Pale Buff + Pale Buff + + Pale Eve. Dun + None + None + Br. silk or None + Lemon floss + Lt. blue grey or grizzly + Lt. Blue Grey + + Pale Sulphur + None + Pale Yel. Hairs + None + Pale Yellow + Pale Yellow + Pale Yellow + + Orange Tag + None + None + None + None + None + None + + Pale Watery + None + Yellow + None + Olive Wool + Pale Yellow + Grey + + Pale Watery Quill + None + Yellow + None + Quill + Pale Yellow + Grey + + Pale Yellow + None + None + None + Yellow + Yellow + Pale Yellow + + Parmachene Beau + Peacock herl + Scarlet and white + Gold + Yellow floss or mohair + Scarlet and white + Scarlet, White jungle cock + + Parmachene Belle + Peacock herl + Scarlet and white + Gold + Yellow floss or mohair + Scarlet and White + Scarlet & white + + Parson + None + Golden tippet + Silver wire + Silver + Black + Bronze + + Peter Ross + None + Golden tippet + None + Bright Yel. + Ginger + None + + Pheasant + None + None + Gold + Yellow floss + Ginger + Bronze + + Pheasant, Gold + None + Golden tippet + Gold Wire + Gold + Pheasant + Pheasant, Wing + + Pheasant, Silver + None + Golden tippet + Silver Wire + Silver + Pheasant + Pheasant, Wing + + Pheasant & Yel. + None + Golden tippet + Gold + Yellow floss + Pheasant + Pheasant, Wing + + Pink Lady + Gold + Pheasant + Gold + Pink floss + Brown + Grey Speckled + + Pink Wickhams + None + Brown + None + Pink floss + Brown tied palmer + Grey Speckled + + Polka + Gold + Scarlet + Gold + Scarlet floss + Scarlet + Guinea + + Poor Mans Fly + None + Ginger + None + Brown Wool + Ginger + Grey Speckled + + {80} + + Portland + None + Grey Speckled + Gold + Red floss + Red + Teal breast + + Preston's Fancy + None + Brown Hairs + None + Gold + Brown + Grey with white spot + + Priest + None + Red Ibis + Silber + Silver + Badger + None + + Prime Gnat + None + None + None + Brown + Brown + Dark Grey + + Professor + Gold + Scarlet + Gold + Yellow floss + Brown + Grey Speckled + + Quaker + None + None + Silver + Grey Wool + Grey + Grey Speckled + + Queen O'Waters + None + None + Gold + Orange floss + Br. Palmer + Grey Speckled + + Quill Gordon + None + Tan speckled + Gold Wire or None + Quill + Blue Dun + Tan speckled wood duck + + Raven + None + Golden tippet + None + Black chenille + Black + Black Crow + + Red Ant + Herl + None + None + Red floss + Brown + Dark Grey + + Red Fox + None + Speckled Teal + None + Redish Brown or wool + None + None + + Red Quill + None + Dark Red + None + Red Quill + Dark Red + Med. Starling + + Red Ibis + None + Scarlet + Gold + Scarlet floss + Scarlet + Scarlet + + Red Spinner + Gold + Brown Hairs + Gold + Red + Brown + Dark Grey + + Red Tag + Red Silk + Red + None + Peacock Herl + Brown + None + + Rd. Bod. Ashy + None + None + None + Red Wool + Brown Palmer + None + + Ross McKenney + Gold + Barred wood duck + Gold + Brown Wool + None + White and red bucktail and jungle cock + + Royal Coachman + Gold + Golden tippet + None + Peacock herl with scarlet red band + Hackle Brown + White + + Rube Wood + Red + Grey Speckled + None + White Chenille + Lt. Brown + Grey Speckled + + Ruben Wood + None + Tan speckled + None + White Chenille + Lt. Brown + Tan speckled + + Saltoun + None + Ginger + Silver + Black floss + Black + Lt. Starling + + Sand-Fly + None + Lt. Ginger + None + Copper Brown + Lt. Ginger + Yellowish Brown + + Sassy Cat + None + Scarlet + None + Peacock Herl + Yellow + Yellow, scarlet cheeks + + {81} + + Seth Green + None + None + Yellow + Green floss + Claret + Grey speckled + + Seth Green Turkey + None + None + Yellow + Green floss + Brown + Brown mottled + + Shad Fly + None + None + Green + Peacock Herl + None + Brown mottled + + Shoemaker + None + Tan speckled + None + Pink & Grey + Brown + Mottled Woodcock + + Silver Doctor + None + Yel. blue green and red + None + Silver + Blue & Guinea + Brown, red, blue, green and yellow + + Silver Horns + None + None + None + Copper floss + Grouse + None + + Silver Sedge + None + None + None + Silver + Brown Palmer + Brown + + Silver Stock + None + Grey Speckled + None + Silver + Brown + Teal breast + + Soldier Palmer + None + None + Gold + Red Wool + Brown Palmer + None + + Spent Gnat + None + Brown + Peacock herl + Wt. Floss or Quill + None + Blue Hkl. tips + + Sedge, light + None + None + None + Pale Buff wool + Ginger + Hen pheasant + + Sniper & Yel. + None + None + None + Pale Yel. floss + Snipe + None + + Stebbins + None + Grey Speckled + None + Peacock Herl + Grouse + Dark Starling + + Stone + None + Grey + Yellow + Grey Wool + Grey + Grey + + Sunset + Green chenille + None + None + Yellow chenille + Yellow + White + + Swiftwater + None + Grey Speckled + None + Peacock herl + Brown + White + + Teal & Black + None + Golden tippet + None + Black wool + Black + Teal breast + + Teal & Orange + Gold + Golden tippet + Gold + Orange wool + Olive + Teal breast + + Teal & Gold + None + Golden tippet + None + Gold + Dk. Brown + Teal breast + + Teal & Red + Gold + Golden tippet + Gold + Red wool + Olive + Teal breast + + Teal & Silver + None + Golden tippet + None + Silver + Badger + Teal breast + + Teal & Yellow + Silver + Golden tippet + Silver + Yellow wool + Ginger + Teal breast + + {82} + + Tippet & Black + Silver + Golden tippet + Silver + Black wool + Black + Golden tippet + + Tippet & Red + Silver + Golden tippet + Silver + Red wool + Dk. Brown + Golden tippet + + Tippet & Silver + Silver + Golden tippet + Silver + Silver + Badger + Golden tippet + + Tootle Bug + Blue + Scarlet + None + Orange & Yel. + Br. palmer + Brown Mottled + + Tups Indispensable + None + Honey Dun + None + Yellow + Honey Dun + None + + Turkey Brown + None + None + Red + Brown + Brown + Brown + + Turkey Professor + Gold + Red + None + Yellow floss + Brown + Brown mottled + + Van Patten + None + Scarlet + Gold + White + Brown + Grey speckled + + Varient, Gold + None + None + None + Gold + Blue Dun + Starling + + Water Cricket + None + None + Black + Orange + Black + None + + Watson's Fancy + Gold + Golden tippet + Gold + Red & Blk. wool + Black + Black hackle tips + + Welshman's Button + None + None + None + Peacock Herl + Furnace + Landrail + + Western Bee + None + None + None + Yellow & Black chenille + Brown + Dark Grey + + Whirling Blue Dun + Gold + Ginger + None + Blue Grey Fur + Ginger + Blue Grey + + White Hackle + None + None + Silver + White floss + White + None + + White Miller + None + None + Silver + White floss + White + White + + White Moth + Silver + None + None + White Chenille + White + White + + Wickham's Fancy + None + Brown hairs + None + Gold + Br. palmer + Grey + + Wickham Pink + None + Red + None + Red & Gold + Lt. Reddish + Landrail + + Widow + None + None + White + Purple Floss + Black + Black + + Willow + None + None + Yellow + Green + Brown + Dark Grey + + Wilkson + None + None + None + Orange + Orange + Teal breast + + Witch Gold + Gold + Red Ibis + Gold + Grey Wool + Badger + None + + Whitechurch Dun + None + Grey Speckled + None + Yellow floss + Ginger + Lt. Grey + + White Wickhams + None + Brown Hairs + None + White floss + White, palmer + Grey + + {83} + + Woodcock & Gold + None + Golden tippet + Silver + Gold + Ginger + Mottled Woodcock + + Woodcock & Grn. + None + Golden tippet + Silver + Green wool + Green + Mottled Woodcock + + Woodcock & Red + None + Golden tippet + Silver + Red wool + Reddish brown + Mottled Woodcock + + Woodcock & Yellow + None + Golden tippet + Silver + Yellow wool + Woodcock + Mottled Woodcock + + Worm Fly + None + None + None + Peacock Herl + Ginger + None + + Yel. Bi-visible + None + None + None + Yellow wool + Yel. and white palmer + None + + Yel. Coachman + None + None + None + Peacock Herl + Brown + Yellow + + Yel. Dun + None + None + None + Yel. wool + Honey Dun + Lt. Starling + + Yel. Hackle + None + None + Gold + Yellow floss + Yellow + None + + Yel. Professor + Gold + Scarlet + Gold + Yellow floss + Brown + Yellow Speckled + + Yel. May + None + Yel. Speckled + Gold or black + Yellow floss + Yellow + Yellow Speckled + + Yel. Miller + None + None + Gold + Yel. & Herl + White + White + + Yel. Spider + None + Yellow + None + Yellow + Yel. (long) + None + + Yel. Sally + None + Yellow + Gold + Yellow + Yellow + Yellow + + Zulu + Gold + Red + None + Peacock Herl + Black + None + + +The Barnes Sports Library + +This library of practical sports books covers fundamentals, techniques, +coaching and playing hints and equipment for each sport. Leading +coaches and players have been selected to write these books, so each +volume is authoritative and based upon actual experience. Photographs +or drawings, or both, illustrate techniques, equipment and play. + + ARCHERY + by Reichart & Keasey + + BAIT CASTING + by Gilmer Robinson + + BASEBALL + by Daniel E. Jessee + + BASKETBALL + by Charles C. Murphy + + BASKETBALL FOR GIRLS + by Meissner & Meyers + + BASKETBALL OFFICIATING + by Dave Tobey + + BETTER BADMINTON + by Jackson & Swan + + BICYCLING + by Ruth and Raymond Benedict + + BOWLING FOR ALL + by Falcaro & Goodman + + BOXING + by Edwin L. Haislet + + FENCING + by Joseph Vince + + FIELD HOCKEY FOR GIRLS + by Josephine T. Lees + + FLY CASTING + by Gilmer Robinson + + FOOTBALL + by W. Glenn Killinger + + GOLF + by Patty Berg + + HANDBALL + by Bernath E. Phillips + + HOW TO TIE FLIES + by E. C. Gregg + + ICE HOCKEY + by Edward Jeremiah + + JIU-JITSU + by Frederick P. Lowell + + LACROSSE + by Tad Stanwick + + LAWN GAMES + by John R. Tunis + + PHYSICAL CONDITIONING + by Stafford & Duncan + + RIDING + by J. J. Boniface + + RIFLE MARKSMANSHIP + by Lt. Wm. L. Stephens + + ROPING + by Bernard S. Mason + + SIX-MAN FOOTBALL + by Ray O. Duncan + + SKATING + by Putman & Parkinson + + SKIING + by Walter Prager + + SOCCER AND SPEEDBALL FOR GIRLS + by Florence L. Hupprich + + SOFTBALL + by Arthur T. Noren + + SOFTBALL FOR GIRLS + by Viola Mitchell + + SWIMMING + by R. J. H. Kiphuth + + TABLE TENNIS + by Jay Purves + + TENNIS + by Helen Jacobs + + TOUCH FOOTBALL + by John V. Grombach + + TRACK AND FIELD + by Ray M. Conger + + VOLLEY BALL + by Robert Laveaga + + WRESTLING + by E. C. Gallagher + +Clair Bee's Basketball Library + + THE SCIENCE OF COACHING + ZONE DEFENSE AND ATTACK + + MAN-TO-MAN DEFENSE AND ATTACK + DRILLS AND FUNDAMENTALS + + + + + + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of How to Tie Flies, by E. C. 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