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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Culture and Cooking, by Catherine Owen
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever.  You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Culture and Cooking
+       Art in the Kitchen
+
+Author: Catherine Owen
+
+Release Date: September 14, 2009 [EBook #29982]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: ASCII
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK CULTURE AND COOKING ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Turgut Dincer and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at http://www.pgdp.net (This file was
+produced from images generously made available by The
+Internet Archive/American Libraries.)
+
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+
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+
+  +-----------------------------------------------+
+  | Transcriber's note:                           |
+  |                                               |
+  | In the text [oe] represents an "oe" ligature. |
+  |                                               |
+  | Discrepancies between chapter names in        |
+  | CONTENTS and in chapter headings have been    |
+  | retained as shown in the original book.       |
+  +-----------------------------------------------+
+
+
+
+
+  CULTURE AND COOKING;
+
+  OR,
+
+  ART IN THE KITCHEN.
+
+  BY
+
+  CATHERINE OWEN
+
+
+  "Le Createur, en obligeant l'homme a manger pour vivre, l'y invite
+  par l'appetit et l'en recompense par le plaisir."
+
+  --BRILLAT SAVARIN.
+
+
+  CASSELL, PETTER, GALPIN & CO.,
+  NEW YORK, LONDON, AND PARIS.
+  1881
+
+
+  COPYRIGHT,
+  1881,
+  BY O. M. DUNHAM.
+
+
+
+  PRESS OF J. J. LITTLE & CO.,
+  NOS. 10 TO 20 ASTOR PLACE, NEW YORK.
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE.
+
+
+THIS is not a cookery book. It makes no attempt to replace a good one;
+it is rather an effort to fill up the gap between you and your household
+oracle, whether she be one of those exasperating old friends who
+maddened our mother with their vagueness, or the newer and better lights
+of our own generation, the latest and best of all being a lady as well
+known for her novels as for her works on domestic economy--one more
+proof, if proof were needed, of the truth I endeavor to set forth--if
+somewhat tediously forgive me--in this little book: that cooking and
+cultivation are by no means antagonistic. Who does not remember with
+affectionate admiration Charlotte Bronte taking the eyes out of the
+potatoes stealthily, for fear of hurting the feelings of her purblind
+old servant; or Margaret Fuller shelling peas?
+
+The chief difficulty, I fancy, with women trying recipes is, that they
+fail and know not why they fail, and so become discouraged, and this is
+where I hope to step in. But although this is not a cookery book,
+insomuch as it does not deal chiefly with recipes, I shall yet give a
+few; but only when they are, or I believe them to be, better than those
+in general use, or good things little known, or supposed to belong to
+the domain of a French _chef_, of which I have introduced a good many.
+Should I succeed in making things that were obscure before clear to a
+few women, I shall be as proud as was Mme. de Genlis when she boasts in
+her Memoirs that she has taught six new dishes to a German housewife.
+Six new dishes! When Brillat-Savarin says: "He who has invented _one_
+new dish has done more for the pleasure of mankind than he who has
+discovered a star."
+
+
+
+
+  CONTENTS.
+
+
+  CHAPTER I.
+
+                                                                  PAGE
+
+  PRELIMINARY REMARKS                                                1
+
+
+  CHAPTER II.
+
+  ON BREAD.
+
+  Sponge for bread.--One cause of failure.--Why home-made
+  bread often has a hard crust.--On baking.--Ovens.--More
+  reasons why bread may fail to be good.--Light
+  rolls.--Rusks.--Kreuznach horns.--Kringles.--Brioche
+  (Paris Jockey Club recipe).--Soufflee bread.--A novelty           12
+
+
+  CHAPTER III.
+
+  PASTRY.
+
+  Why you fail in making good puff paste.--How to
+  succeed.--How to handle it.--To put fruit pies together so
+  that the syrup does not boil out.--Ornamenting fruit
+  pies.--Rissolettes.--Pastry tablets.--Frangipane
+  tartlets.--Rules for ascertaining the heat of your oven           22
+
+
+  CHAPTER IV.
+
+  WHAT TO HAVE IN YOUR STORE-ROOM.
+
+  Mushroom powder (recipe).--Stock to keep, or glaze
+  (recipe).--Uses of glaze.--Glazing meats, hams, tongues,
+  etc.--Maitre d'hotel butter (recipe).--Uses of
+  it.--Ravigotte or Montpellier butter (recipe).--Uses of
+  it.--Roux.--Blanc (recipes).--Uses of both.--Brown flour,
+  its uses                                                          28
+
+
+  CHAPTER V.
+
+  LUNCHEONS.
+
+  Remarks on what to have for luncheons.--English meat
+  pies.--Windsor pie.--Veal and ham pie.--Chicken
+  pie.--Raised pork pie.--(Recipes).--Ornamenting meat
+  pies.--Galantine (recipe).--Fish in jelly.--Jellied
+  oysters.--A new mayonnaise luncheon for small
+  families.--Potted meats (recipes).--Anchovy butter.--A new
+  omelet.--Potato snow.--Lyonnaise potatoes                         35
+
+
+  CHAPTER VI.
+
+  A CHAPTER ON GENERAL MANAGEMENT IN VERY SMALL FAMILIES.
+
+  How to have little dinners.--Hints for bills of fare,
+  etc.--Filet de b[oe]uf Chateaubriand (recipe).--What to do
+  with the odds and ends.--Various recipes.--Salads.--Recipes     47
+
+
+  CHAPTER VII.
+
+  FRYING.
+
+  Why you fail.--Panure or bread-crumbs, to prepare.--How to
+  prepare flounders as filets de sole.--Fried oysters.--To
+  clarify dripping for frying.--Remarks.--Pate a frire a la
+  Careme.--Same, a la Provencale.--Broiling                         55
+
+
+  CHAPTER VIII.
+
+  ROASTING                                                          62
+
+
+  CHAPTER IX.
+
+  BOILING AND SOUPS.
+
+  Boiling meat.--Rules for knowing exactly the degrees of
+  boiling.--Vegetables.--Remarks on making soup.--To clear
+  soup.--Why it is not clear.--Coloring
+  pot-au-feu.--Consomme.--_Creme de celeri_, a little known
+  soup.--Recipes                                                    65
+
+
+  CHAPTER X.
+
+  SAUCES.
+
+  Remarks on making and flavoring sauces.--Espagnole or
+  brown sauce as it should be.--How to make fine white sauce        70
+
+
+  CHAPTER XI.
+
+  WARMING OVER.
+
+  Remarks.--Salmi of cold meats.--B[oe]uf a la
+  jardiniere.--B[oe]uf au gratin.--Pseudo-beefsteak.
+  --Cutlets a la jardiniere.--Cromesquis of lamb.--Sauce
+  piquant.--Miroton of beef.--Simple way of warming a
+  joint.--Breakfast dish.--Stuffed beef.--Beef olives.--Chops
+  a la poulette.--Devils.--Mephistophelian sauce.--Fritadella,
+  twenty recipes in one                                             72
+
+
+  CHAPTER XII.
+
+  ON FRIANDISES.
+
+  Biscuit glacee at home (recipes).--Iced souffles
+  (recipes).--Baba and syrups for it (recipe).--Savarin and
+  syrup (recipes).--Bouchees de dames.--How to make
+  Curacoa.--Maraschino.--Noyeau                                     84
+
+
+  CHAPTER XIII.
+
+  FRENCH CANDIES AT HOME.
+
+  How to make them.--Fondants.--Vanilla.--Almond
+  cream.--Walnut cream.--Tutti frutti.--Various candies
+  dipped in cream.--Chocolate creams.--Fondant
+  panache.--Punch drops                                             91
+
+
+  CHAPTER XIV.
+
+  FOR PEOPLE OF VERY SMALL MEANS.
+
+  Remarks.--What may be made of a soup bone.--Several very
+  economical dishes.--Pot roasts.--Dishes requiring no meat         96
+
+
+  CHAPTER XV.
+
+  A FEW THINGS IT IS WELL TO REMEMBER                              105
+
+
+  CHAPTER XVI.
+
+  ON SOME TABLE PREJUDICES                                         108
+
+
+  CHAPTER XVII.
+
+  A CHAPTER OF ODDS AND ENDS.
+
+  Altering recipes.--How to have tarragon, burnet,
+  etc.--Remarks on obtaining ingredients not in common
+  use.--An impromptu salamander.--Larding needle.--How to
+  have parsley fresh all winter without expense.--On having
+  kitchen conveniences.--Anecdote related by Jules
+  Gouffee.--On servants in America.--A little
+  advice by way of valedictory                                     111
+
+
+  INDEX                                                            119
+
+
+
+
+CULTURE AND COOKING.
+
+
+CHAPTER I.
+
+A FEW PRELIMINARY REMARKS.
+
+
+ALEXANDRE DUMAS, _pere_, after writing five hundred novels, says, "I
+wish to close my literary career with a book on cooking."
+
+And in the hundred pages or so of preface--or perhaps overture would be
+the better word, since in it a group of literary men, while contributing
+recondite recipes, flourish trumpets in every key--to his huge volume he
+says, "I wish to be read by people of the world, and practiced by people
+of the art" (_gens de l'art_); and although _I_ wish, like every one who
+writes, to be read by all the world, I wish to aid the practice, not of
+the professors of the culinary art, but those whose aspirations point to
+an enjoyment of the good things of life, but whose means of attaining
+them are limited.
+
+There is a great deal of talk just now about cooking; in a lesser degree
+it takes its place as a popular topic with ceramics, modern antiques,
+and household art. The fact of it being in a mild way fashionable may do
+a little good to the eating world in general. And it may make it more
+easy to convince young women of refined proclivities that the art of
+cooking is not beneath their attention, to know that the Queen of
+England's daughters--and of course the cream of the London fair--have
+attended the lectures on the subject delivered at South Kensington, and
+that a young lady of rank, Sir James Coles's daughter, has been
+recording angel to the association, is in fact the R. C. C. who edits
+the "Official Handbook of Cookery."
+
+But, notwithstanding all that has been done by South Kensington lectures
+in London and Miss Corson's Cooking School in New York to popularize the
+culinary art, one may go into a dozen houses, and find the ladies of the
+family with sticky fingers, scissors, and gum pot, busily porcelainizing
+clay jars, and not find one where they are as zealously trying to work
+out the problems of the "Official Handbook of Cookery."
+
+I have nothing to say against the artistic distractions of the day.
+Anything that will induce love of the beautiful, and remove from us the
+possibility of a return to the horrors of hair-cloth and brocatel and
+crochet tidies, will be a stride in the right direction. But what I do
+protest against, is the fact, that the same refined girls and matrons,
+who so love to adorn their houses that they will spend hours improving a
+pickle jar, mediaevalizing their furniture, or decorating the dinner
+service, will shirk everything that pertains to the preparation of food
+as dirty, disagreeable drudgery, and sit down to a commonplace,
+ill-prepared meal, served on those artistic plates, as complacently as
+if dainty food were not a refinement; as if heavy rolls and poor bread,
+burnt or greasy steak, and wilted potatoes did not smack of the shanty,
+just as loudly as coarse crockery or rag carpet--indeed far more so; the
+carpet and crockery may be due to poverty, but a dainty meal or its
+reverse will speak volumes for innate refinement or its lack in the
+woman who serves it. You see by my speaking of rag carpets and dainty
+meals in one breath, that I do not consider good things to be the
+privilege of the rich alone.
+
+There are a great many dainty things the household of small or moderate
+means can have just as easily as the most wealthy. Beautiful
+bread--light, white, crisp--costs no more than the tough, thick-crusted
+boulder, with cavities like eye-sockets, that one so frequently meets
+with as _home-made bread_. As Hood says:
+
+  "Who has not met with home-made bread,
+   A heavy compound of putty and lead?"
+
+Delicious coffee is only a matter of care, not expense--and indeed in
+America the cause of poor food, even in a boarding-house, is seldom in
+the quality of the articles so much as in the preparation and selection
+of them--yet an epicure can breakfast well with fine bread and butter
+and good coffee. And this leads me to another thing: many people think
+that to give too much attention to food shows gluttony. I have heard a
+lady say with a tone of virtuous rebuke, when the conversation turned
+from fashions to cooking, "I give very little time to cooking, we eat to
+live only"--which is exactly what an animal does. Eating to live is mere
+feeding. Brillat-Savarin, an abstemious eater himself, among other witty
+things on the same topic says, "_L'animal se repait, l'homme mange,
+l'homme d'esprit seul sait manger._"
+
+Nine people out of ten, when they call a man an epicure, mean it as a
+sort of reproach, a man who is averse to every-day food, one whom plain
+fare would fail to satisfy; but Grimod de la Reyniere, the most
+celebrated gourmet of his day, author of "_Almanach des Gourmands_,"
+and authority on all matters culinary of the last century, said, "A true
+epicure can dine well on one dish, provided it is excellent of its
+kind." Excellent, that is it. A little care will generally secure to us
+the refinement of having only on the table what is excellent of its
+kind. If it is but potatoes and salt, let the salt be ground fine, and
+the potatoes white and mealy. Thackeray says, an epicure is one who
+never tires of brown bread and fresh butter, and in this sense every New
+Yorker who has his rolls from the Brevoort House, and uses Darlington
+butter, is an epicure. There seems to me, more mere animalism in wading
+through a long bill of fare, eating three or four indifferently cooked
+vegetables, fish, meat, poultry, each second-rate in quality, or made so
+by bad cooking, and declaring that you have dined well, and are easy to
+please, than there is in taking pains to have a perfectly broiled chop,
+a fine potato, and a salad, on which any true epicure could dine well,
+while on the former fare he would leave the table hungry.
+
+Spenser points a moral for me when he says, speaking of the Irish in
+1580, "That wherever they found a plot of shamrocks or water-cresses
+they had a feast;" but there were gourmets even among them, for "some
+gobbled the green food as it came, and some picked the faultless stalks,
+and looked for the bloom on the leaf."
+
+Thus it is, when I speak of "good living," I do not mean expensive
+living or high living, but living so that the table may be as elegant as
+the dishes on which it is served.
+
+I believe there exists a feeling, not often expressed perhaps, but
+prevalent among young people, that for a lady to cook with her own
+hands is vulgar; to love to do it shows that she is of low intellectual
+caliber, a sort of drawing-room Bridget. When or how this idea arose it
+would be difficult to say, for in the middle ages cooks were often
+noble; a Montmorency was _chef de cuisine_ to Philip of Valois;
+Montesquieu descended, and was not ashamed of his descent, from the
+second cook of the Connetable de Bourbon, who ennobled him. And from
+Lord Bacon, "brightest, greatest, meanest of mankind," who took, it is
+said, great interest in cooking, to Talleyrand, the Machiavelli of
+France, who spent an hour every day with his cook, we find great men
+delighting in the art as a recreation.
+
+It is surprising that such an essentially artistic people as Americans
+should so neglect an art which a great French writer calls the "_science
+mignonne_ of all distinguished men of the world." Napoleon the Great so
+fully recognized the social value of keeping a good table that, although
+no gourmet himself, he wished all his chief functionaries to be so.
+"Keep a good table," he told them; "if you get into debt for it I will
+pay." And later, one of his most devoted adherents, the Marquis de
+Cussy, out of favor with Louis XVIII. on account of that very devotion,
+found his reputation as a gourmet very serviceable to him. A friend
+applied for a place at court for him, which Louis refused, till he heard
+that M. de Cussy had invented the mixture of cream, strawberries, and
+champagne, when he granted the petition at once. Nor is this a solitary
+instance in history where culinary skill has been a passport to fortune
+to its possessor. Savarin relates that the Chevalier d'Aubigny, exiled
+from France, was in London, in utter poverty, notwithstanding which, by
+chance, he was invited to dine at a tavern frequented by the young
+bucks of that day.
+
+After he had finished his dinner, a party of young gentlemen, who had
+been observing him from their table, sent one of their number with many
+apologies and excuses to beg of him, as a son of a nation renowned for
+their salads, to be kind enough to mix theirs for them. He complied, and
+while occupied in making the salad, told them frankly his story, and did
+not hide his poverty. One of the gentlemen, as they parted, slipped a
+five-pound note into his hand, and his need of it was so great that he
+did not obey the prompting of his pride, but accepted it.
+
+A few days later he was sent for to a great house, and learned on his
+arrival that the young gentleman he had obliged at the tavern had spoken
+so highly of his salad that they begged him to do the same thing again.
+A very handsome sum was tendered him on his departure, and afterwards he
+had frequent calls on his skill, until it became the fashion to have
+salads prepared by d'Aubigny, who became a well-known character in
+London, and was called "_the fashionable salad-maker_." In a few years
+he amassed a large fortune by this means, and was in such request that
+his carriage would drive from house to house, carrying him and his
+various condiments--for he took with him everything that could give
+variety to his concoctions--from one place, where his services were
+needed, to another.
+
+The contempt for this art of cooking is confined to this country, and to
+the lower middle classes in England. By the "lower middle classes" I
+mean, what Carlyle terms the gigocracy--_i.e._, people sufficiently
+well-to-do to keep a gig or phaeton--well-to-do tradesmen, small
+professional men, the class whose womenkind would call themselves
+"genteel," and many absurd stories are told of the determined ignorance
+and pretense of these would-be ladies. But in no class above this is a
+knowledge of cooking a thing to be ashamed of; in England, indeed, so
+far from that being the case, indifference to the subject, or lack of
+understanding and taste for certain dishes is looked upon as a sort of
+proof of want of breeding. Not to like curry, macaroni, or parmesan,
+_pate de foie gras_, mushrooms, and such like, is a sign that you have
+not been all your life accustomed to good living. Mr. Hardy, in his
+"Pair of Blue Eyes," cleverly hits this prejudice when he makes Mr.
+Swancourt say, "I knew the fellow wasn't a gentleman; he had no acquired
+tastes, never took Worcestershire sauce."
+
+Abroad many women of high rank and culture devote a good deal of time to
+a thorough understanding of the subject. We have a lady of the "lordly
+line of proud St. Clair" writing for us "Dainty Dishes," and doing it
+with a zest that shows she enjoys her work, although she does once in a
+while forget something she ought to have mentioned, and later still we
+have Miss Rose Coles writing the "Official Handbook of Cookery."
+
+But it is in graceful, refined France that cookery is and has been, a
+pet art. Any bill of fare or French cookery book will betray to a
+thoughtful reader the attention given to the subject by the wittiest,
+gayest, and most beautiful women, and the greatest men. The
+high-sounding names attached to French standard dishes are no mere
+caprice or homage of a French cook to the great in the land, but
+actually point out their inventor. Thus _Bechamel_ was invented by the
+Marquis de Bechamel, as a sauce for codfish; while _Filets de Lapereau a
+la Berry_ were invented by the Duchess de Berry, daughter of the regent
+Orleans, who himself invented _Pain a la d'Orleans_, while to Richelieu
+we are indebted for hundreds of dishes besides the renowned mayonnaise.
+
+_Cailles a la Mirepois_, _Chartreuse a la Mauconseil_, _Poulets a la
+Villeroy_, betray the tastes of the three great ladies whose name they
+bear.
+
+But not in courts alone has the art had its devotees. Almost every great
+name in French literature brings to mind something its owner said or did
+about cooking. Dumas, who was a prince of cooks, and of whom it is
+related that in 1860, when living at Varennes, St. Maur, dividing his
+time, as usual, between cooking and literature (_Lorsqu'il ne faisait
+pas sauter un roman, il faisait sauter des petits oignons_), on
+Mountjoye, a young artist friend and neighbor, going to see him, he
+cooked dinner for him. Going into the poultry yard, after donning a
+white apron, he wrung the neck of a chicken; then to the kitchen garden
+for vegetables, which he peeled and washed himself; lit the fire, got
+butter and flour ready, put on his saucepans, then cooked, stirred,
+tasted, seasoned until dinner time. Then he entered in triumph, and
+announced, "_Le diner est servi_." For six months he passed three or
+four days a week cooking for Mountjoye. This novelist's book says, in
+connection with the fact that great cooks in France have been men of
+literary culture, and literary men often fine cooks, "It is not
+surprising that literary men have always formed the _entourage_ of a
+great chef, for, to appreciate thoroughly all there is in the culinary
+art, none are so well able as men of letters; accustomed as they are to
+all refinements, they can appreciate better than others those of the
+table," thus paying himself and confreres a delicate little compliment
+at the expense of the non-literary world; but, notwithstanding the naive
+self-glorification, he states a fact that helps to point my moral, that
+indifference to cooking does not indicate refinement, intellect, or
+social pre-eminence.
+
+Brillat-Savarin, grave judge as he was, and abstemious eater, yet has
+written the book of books on the art of eating. It was he who said,
+"Tell me what you eat, I will tell you what you are," as pregnant with
+truth as the better-known proverb it paraphrases.
+
+Malherbe loved to watch his cook at work. I think it was he who said, "A
+coarse-minded man could never be a cook," and Charles Baudelaire, the
+Poe of France, takes a poet's view of our daily wants, when he says,
+"that an ideal cook must have a great deal of the poet's nature,
+combining something of the voluptuary with the man of science learned in
+the chemical principles of matter;" although he goes further than we
+care to follow when he says, that the question of sauces and seasoning
+requires "a chapter as grave as a _feuilleton de science_."
+
+It has been said by foreigners that Americans care nothing for the
+refinements of the table, but I think they do care. I have known many a
+woman in comfortable circumstances long to have a good table, many a man
+aspire to better things, and if he could only get them at home would pay
+any money. But the getting them at home is the difficulty; on a table
+covered with exquisite linen, glass, and silver, whose presiding queen
+is more likely than not a type of the American lady--graceful, refined,
+and witty--on such a table, with such surroundings, will come the
+plentiful, coarse, commonplace dinner.
+
+The chief reason for this is lack of knowledge on the part of our
+ladies: know how to do a thing yourself, and you will get it well done
+by others. But how are many of them to know? The daughters of the
+wealthy in this country often marry struggling men, and they know less
+about domestic economy than ladies of the higher ranks abroad; not
+because English or French ladies take more part in housekeeping, but
+because they are at home all their lives. Ladies of the highest rank
+never go to a boarding or any other school, and these are the women who,
+with some few exceptions, know best how things should be done. They are
+at home listening to criticisms from papa, who is an epicure perhaps, on
+the shortcomings of his own table, or his neighbors'; from mamma, as to
+what the soup lacks, why cook is not a "_cordon bleu_," etc., while our
+girls are at school, far away from domestic comments, deep in the
+agonies of algebra perhaps; and directly they leave school, in many
+cases they marry. As a preparation for the state of matrimony most of
+them learn how to make cake and preserves, and the very excellence of
+their attainments in that way proves how easy it would be for them, with
+their dainty fingers and good taste, to far excel their European cousins
+in that art which a French writer says is based on "reason, health,
+common sense, and sound taste."
+
+Here let me say, I do not by any means advocate a woman, who can afford
+to pay a first-rate cook, avoiding the expense by cooking herself; on
+the contrary, I think no woman is justified in doing work herself that
+she has the means given her to get done by employing others. I have no
+praise for the economical woman, who, from a desire to save, does her
+own work _without necessity for economy_. It is _not_ her work; the
+moment she can afford to employ others it is the work of some less
+fortunate person. But in this country, it often happens that a good
+cook is not to be found for money, although the raw material of which
+one might be made is much oftener at hand. And if ladies would only
+practice the culinary art with as much, nay, half as much assiduity as
+they give to a new pattern in crochet; devote as much time to attaining
+perfection in one dish or article of food, be it perfect bread, or some
+French dish which father, brother, or husband goes to Delmonico's to
+enjoy, as they do to the crochet tidies or embroidered rugs with which
+they decorate their drawing-rooms, they could then take the material, in
+the shape of any ambitious girl they may meet with, and make her a fine
+cook. In the time they take to make a dozen tidies, they would have a
+dozen dishes at their fingers' ends; and let me tell you, the woman who
+can cook a dozen things, outside of preserves, in a _perfect_ manner is
+a rarity here, and a good cook anywhere, for, by the time the dozen are
+accomplished, she will have learned so much of the art of cooking that
+all else will come easy. One good soup, bouillon, and you have the
+foundation of all others; two good sauces, white sauce and brown, "_les
+sauces meres_" as the French call them (mothers of all other sauces),
+and all others are matters of detail. Learn to make one kind of roll
+perfectly, as light, plump, and crisp as Delmonico's, and all varieties
+are at your fingers' ends; you can have kringles, Vienna rolls,
+Kreuznach horns, Yorkshire tea cakes, English Sally Lunns and Bath buns;
+all are then as easy to make as common soda biscuit. In fact, in
+cooking, as in many other things, "_ce n'est que le premier pas que
+coute_;" failures are almost certain at the beginning, but a failure is
+often a step toward success--if we only know the reason of the failure.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER II.
+
+ON BREAD.
+
+
+OF all articles of food, bread is perhaps the one about which most has
+been written, most instruction given, and most failures made. Yet what
+adds more to the elegance of a table than exquisite bread or breads,
+and--unless you live in a large city and depend on the baker--what so
+rare? A lady who is very proud of her table, and justly so, said to me
+quite lately, "I cannot understand how it is we never have really fine
+home-made bread. I have tried many recipes, following them closely, and
+I can't achieve anything but a commonplace loaf with a thick, hard
+crust; and as for rolls, they are my despair. I have wasted eggs,
+butter, and patience so often that I have determined to give them up,
+but a fine loaf I will try for."
+
+"And when you achieve the fine loaf, you may revel in home-made rolls,"
+I answered.
+
+And so I advise every one first to make perfect bread, light, white,
+crisp, and _thin-crusted_, that rarest thing in home-made bread.
+
+I have read over many recipes for bread, and am convinced that when the
+time allowed for rising is specified, it is invariably too short. One
+standard book directs you to leave your sponge two hours, and the bread
+when made up a _quarter of an hour_. This recipe strictly followed must
+result in heavy, tough bread. As bread is so important, and so many
+fail, I will give my own method from beginning to end; not that there
+are not numberless good recipes, but simply because they frequently need
+adapting to circumstances, and altering a recipe is one of the things a
+tyro fears to do.
+
+I make a sponge over night, using a dried yeast-cake soaked in a pint of
+warm water, to which I add a spoonful of salt, and, if the weather is
+warm, as much soda as will lie on a dime; make this into a stiff batter
+with flour--it may take a quart or less, flour varies so much, to give a
+rule is impossible; but if, after standing, the sponge has a watery
+appearance, make it thicker by sprinkling in more flour, beat hard a few
+minutes, and cover with a cloth--in winter keep a piece of thick flannel
+for the purpose, as a chill is fatal to your sponge--and set in a warm
+place free from draughts.
+
+The next morning, when the sponge is quite light--that is to say, at
+least twice the bulk it was, and like a honeycomb--take two quarts of
+flour, more or less, as you require, but I recommend at first a small
+baking, and this will make three small loaves; in winter, flour should
+be dried and warmed; put it in your mixing bowl, and turn the sponge
+into a hole in the center. Have ready some water, rather more than
+lukewarm, but not _hot_. Add it gradually, stirring your flour into the
+sponge at the same time. The great fault in making bread is getting the
+dough too stiff; it should be as soft as possible, without being at all
+sticky or wet. Now knead it with both hands from all sides into the
+center; keep this motion, occasionally dipping your hands into the flour
+if the dough sticks, but do not add more flour unless the paste sticks
+very much; if you have the right consistency it will be a smooth mass,
+very soft to the touch, _yet not sticky_, but this may not be attained
+at a first mixing without adding flour by degrees. When you have kneaded
+the dough until it leaves the bowl all round, set it in a warm place to
+rise. When it is well risen, feels very soft and warm to the touch, and
+is twice its bulk, knead it once more thoroughly, then put it in tins
+either floured, and the flour not adhering shaken out, or buttered,
+putting in each a piece of dough half the size you intend your loaf to
+be. Now everything depends on your oven. Many people bake their bread
+slowly, leaving it in the oven a long time, and this causes a thick,
+hard crust. When baked in the modern iron oven, quick baking is
+necessary. Let the oven be quite hot, then put a little ball of paste
+in, and if it browns palely in seven to ten minutes it is about right;
+if it burns, it is too hot; open the damper ten minutes. Your bread,
+after it is in the tins, will rise much more quickly than the first
+time. Let it get light, but not too light--_twice its bulk_ is a good
+rule; but if it is light before your oven is ready, and thus in danger
+of getting too porous, work it down with your hand, it will not harm it,
+although it is better so to manage that the oven waits for the bread
+rather than the bread for the oven. A small loaf--and by all means make
+them small until you have gained experience--will not take more than
+three quarters of an hour to bake; when a nice yellow brown, take it
+out, turn it out of the tin into a cloth, and tap the bottom; if it is
+crisp and smells cooked, the loaf is done. Once the bottom is brown it
+need remain no longer. Should that, however, from fault of your oven, be
+not brown, but soft and white, you must put it back in the oven, the
+bottom upwards. An oven that does not bake at the bottom will, however,
+be likely to spoil your bread. It is sometimes caused by a careless
+servant leaving a collection of ashes underneath it; satisfy yourself
+that all the flues are perfectly clean and clear before beginning to
+bake, and if it still refuses to do its duty, change it, for you will
+have nothing but loss and vexation of spirit while you have it in use. I
+think you will find this bread white, evenly porous (not with small
+holes in one part and caverns in another; if it is so you have made your
+dough too stiff, and it is not sufficiently kneaded), and with a thin,
+crisp crust. Bread will surely fail to rise at all if you have scalded
+the yeast; the water must never be too hot. In winter, if it gets
+chilled, it will only rise slowly, or not at all, and in using baker's
+or German yeast take care that it is not stale, which will cause heavy,
+irregular bread.
+
+In making bread with compressed yeast proceed in exactly the same way,
+excepting that the sponge will not need to be set over night, unless you
+want to bake very early.
+
+If you have once produced bread to your satisfaction you will find no
+difficulty in making rolls. Proceed as follows:
+
+Take a piece of the dough from your baking after it has risen once. To a
+piece as large as a man's fist take a large tablespoonful of butter and
+a little powdered sugar; work them into the dough, put it in a bowl,
+cover it, and set it in a warm place to rise--a shelf behind the stove
+is best; if you make this at the same time as your bread, you will find
+it takes longer to rise; the butter causes that difference; when very
+light, much lighter than your bread should be, take your hand and push
+it down till it is not larger than when you put it in the bowl; let it
+rise again, and again push it down, but not so thoroughly; do this once
+or twice more, and you have the secret of light rolls. You will find
+them rise very quickly, after once or twice pushing down. When they have
+risen the third or fourth time, take a little butter on your hands, and
+break off small pieces about the size of a walnut and roll them round.
+Either put them on a tin close together, to be broken apart, or an inch
+or two from each other, in which case work in a little more flour, and
+cut a cleft on the top, and once more set to rise; half an hour will be
+long enough generally, but in this case you must judge for yourself,
+they sometimes take an hour; if they look swelled very much and smooth
+they will be ready. Have a nice hot oven, and bake for twelve to fifteen
+minutes.
+
+Add a little more sugar to your dough and an egg, go through the same
+process, brush them over with sugar dissolved in milk, and you will have
+delicious rusks.
+
+The above is my own method of making rolls, and the simplest I know of;
+but there are numbers of other recipes given in cookery books which
+would be just as good if the exact directions for letting them rise were
+given. As a test--and every experiment you try will be so much gained in
+your experience--follow the recipe given for rolls in any good cookery
+book, take part of the dough and let it rise as therein directed, and
+bake, set the other part to rise as _I_ direct, and notice the
+difference.
+
+KREUZNACH HORNS.--Either take a third of the dough made for bread with
+three quarts of flour, or set a sponge with a pint of flour and a
+yeast-cake soaked in half a pint of warm water or milk, making it into a
+stiffish dough with another pint of flour; then add four ounces of
+butter, a _little_ sugar, and two eggs; work well. If you use the bread
+dough, you will need to dredge in a little more flour on account of the
+eggs, but not _very much_; then set to rise as for rolls, work it down
+twice or thrice, then turn the dough out on the molding board lightly
+floured, roll it as you would pie-crust into pieces six inches square,
+and quarter of an inch thick, make two sharp, quick cuts across it from
+corner to corner, and you will have from each square four three-cornered
+pieces of paste; spread each _thinly_ with soft butter, flour lightly,
+and roll up very lightly from the wide side, taking care that it is not
+squeezed together in any way; lay them on a tin with the side on which
+the point comes uppermost, and bend round in the form of a horseshoe;
+these will take some time to rise; when they have swollen much and look
+light, brush them over with white of egg (not beaten) or milk and
+butter, and bake in a good oven.
+
+KRINGLES are made from the same recipe, but with another egg and two
+ounces of sugar (powdered) added to the dough when first set to rise;
+then, when well risen two or three times, instead of rolling with a pin
+as for horns, break off pieces, roll between your hands as thick as your
+finger, and form into figure eights, rings, fingers; or take three
+strips, flour and roll them as thick as your finger, tapering at each
+end; lay them on the board, fasten the three together at one end, and
+then lay one over the other in a plait, fasten the other end, and set to
+rise, bake; when done, brush over with sugar dissolved in milk, and
+sprinkle with sugar.
+
+All these breads are delicious for breakfast, and may easily be had
+without excessive early rising if the sponge is set in the _morning_,
+dough made in the afternoon, and the rising and working done in the
+evening; when, instead of making up into rolls, horns, or kringles,
+push the dough down thoroughly, cover with a damp folded cloth, and put
+in a _very_ cold place if in summer--not on ice of course--then next
+morning, as soon as the fire is alight, mold, but do not push down any
+more, put in a very warm spot, and when light, bake.
+
+In summer, as I have said, I think it safest, to prevent danger of
+souring, to put a little soda in the sponge for bread; and for rolls, or
+anything requiring to rise several times, it is an essential precaution.
+
+BRIOCHE.--I suppose the very name of this delectable French dainty will
+call up in the mind's eye of many who read this book that great "little"
+shop, _Au Grand Brioche_, on the Boulevarde Poissoniere, where, on
+Sunday afternoons, scores of boys from the Lycees form _en queue_ with
+the general public, waiting the hour when the piles of golden brioche
+shall be ready to exchange for their eager sous. But I venture to say, a
+really fine brioche is rarely eaten on this side the Atlantic. They
+being a luxury welcome to all, and especially aromatic of Paris, I tried
+many times to make them, obtaining for that purpose recipes from French
+friends, and from standard French books, but never succeeded in
+producing the ideal brioche until I met with Gouffe's great book, the
+"_Livre de Cuisine_," after reading which, I may here say, all secrets
+of the French kitchen are laid bare; no effort is spared to make
+everything plain, from the humble _pot-au-feu_ to the most gorgeous
+monumental _plat_. And I would refer any one who wants to become
+proficient in any French dish, to that book, feeling sure that, in
+following strictly the directions, there will be no failure. It is the
+one book I have met with on the subject in which no margin is left for
+your own knowledge, if you have it, to fill up. But to the brioche.
+
+
+PARIS JOCKEY-CLUB RECIPE FOR BRIOCHE.
+
+Sift one pound of flour, take one fourth of it, and add rather more than
+half a cake of compressed yeast, dissolved in half a gill of warm water,
+make into a sponge with a _very little_ more water, put it in a warm
+place; when it is double its volume take the rest of the flour, make a
+hole in the center, and put in it an equal quantity of salt and sugar,
+about a teaspoonful, and two tablespoonfuls of water to dissolve them.
+Three quarters of a pound of butter and four eggs, beat well, then add
+another egg, beat again, and add another, and so on until seven have
+been used; the paste must be soft, but not spread; if too firm, add
+another egg. Now mix this paste with the sponge thoroughly, beating
+until the paste leaves the sides of the bowl, then put it in a crock and
+cover; let it stand four hours in a warm place, then turn it out on a
+board, _spread it and double it four times_, return it to the crock, and
+let it rise again two hours; repeat the former process of doubling and
+spreading, and put it in a very cold place for two hours, or until you
+want to use it. Mold in any form you like, but the true brioche is two
+pieces, one as large again as the other; form the large one into a ball,
+make a deep depression in the center, on which place the smaller ball,
+pressing it gently in; cut two or three gashes round it with a sharp
+knife, and bake a beautiful golden brown. These brioche are such a
+luxury, and so sure to come out right, that the trouble of making them
+is well worth the taking, and for another reason: every one knows the
+great difficulty of making puff paste in summer, and a short paste is
+never handsome; but take a piece of brioche paste, roll it out thin,
+dredge with flour, fold and roll again, then use as you would puff
+paste; if for sweet pastry, a little powdered sugar may be sprinkled
+through it instead of dredging with flour. This makes a very handsome
+and delicious crust. Or, another use to which it may be put is to roll
+it out, cut it in rounds, lay on them mince-meat, orange marmalade, jam,
+or merely sprinkle with currants, chopped citron, and spices, fold,
+press the edges, and bake.
+
+Before quitting the subject of breads I must introduce a novelty which I
+will call "soufflee bread." It is quickly made, possible even when the
+fire is poor, and so delicious that I know you will thank me for making
+you acquainted with it.
+
+Use two or three eggs according to size you wish, and to each egg a
+tablespoonful of flour. Mix the yolks with the flour and with them a
+dessert-spoonful of butter melted, and enough milk to make a very
+_thick_ batter, work, add a pinch of salt and a teaspoonful of sugar,
+work till quite smooth, then add the whites of the eggs in a firm froth,
+stir them in gently, and add a _quarter_ teaspoonful of soda and half a
+one of cream of tartar. Have ready an iron frying-pan (or an earthen one
+that will stand heat is better), made hot with a tablespoonful of butter
+in it, also hot, but not so hot as for frying. Pour the batter (which
+should be of the consistency of sponge cake batter) into the pan, cover
+it with a lid or tin plate, and set it back of the stove if the fire is
+hot--if very slow it may be forward; when well risen and near done, put
+it in the oven, or if the oven is cold you may turn it gently, not to
+deaden it. Serve when done (try with a twig), the under side uppermost;
+it should be of a fine golden brown and look like an omelet. This
+soufflee bread is equally good _baked_ in a tin in which is rather more
+butter than enough to grease it; the oven must be _very hot indeed_.
+Cover it for the few minutes with a tin plate or lid, to prevent it
+scorching before it has risen; when it has puffed up remove the lid, and
+allow it to brown, ten to fifteen minutes should bake it; turn it out as
+you would sponge cake--very carefully, not to deaden it. To succeed with
+bread you must use the very best flour.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER III.
+
+PASTRY.
+
+
+TO MAKE good puff paste is a thing many ladies are anxious to do, and in
+which they generally fail, and this not so much because they do not make
+it properly, as because they handle it badly. A lady who was very
+anxious to excel in pastry once asked me to allow her to watch me make
+paste. I did so, and explained that there was more in the manner of
+using than in the making up. I then gave her a piece of my paste when
+completed, and asked her to cover some patty pans while I covered
+others, cautioning her as to the way she must cover them; yet, when
+those covered by her came out of the oven they had not risen at all,
+they were like rich short paste; while my own, made from the same paste,
+were toppling over with lightness. I had, without saying anything,
+pressed my thumb slightly on one spot of one of mine; in that spot the
+paste had not risen at all, and I think this practical demonstration of
+what I had tried to explain was more useful than an hour's talk would
+have been.
+
+I will first give my method of making, which is the usual French way of
+making "_feuilletonage_." Take one pound of butter, or half of it lard;
+press all the water out by squeezing it in a cloth; this is important,
+as the liquid in it would wet your paste; take a third of the butter, or
+butter and lard, and rub it into one pound of _fine_ flour; add no salt
+if your butter is salted; then take enough water (to which you may add
+the well-beaten white of an egg, but it is not absolutely necessary) to
+make the flour into a smooth, firm dough; it must not be too stiff, or
+it will be hard to roll out, or too soft, or it will never make good
+paste; it should roll easily, yet not stick; work it till it is very
+smooth, then roll it out till it is half an inch thick; now lay the
+whole of the butter in the center, fold one-third the paste over, then
+the other third; it is now folded in three, with the butter completely
+hidden; now turn the ends toward you, and roll it till it is half an
+inch thick, taking care, by rolling very evenly, that the butter is not
+pressed out at the other end; now you have a piece of paste about two
+feet long, and not half that width; flour it lightly, and fold _over_
+one third and under one third, which will almost bring it to a square
+again; turn it round so that what was the side is now the end, and roll.
+Most likely now the butter will begin to break through, in which case
+fold it, after flouring lightly, in three, as before, and put it on a
+dish on the ice, covering it with a damp cloth. You may now either leave
+it for an hour or two, or till next day. Paste made the day before it is
+used is much better and easier to manage, and in winter it may be kept
+for four or five days in a cold place, using from it as required.
+
+When ready to use your paste finish the making by rolling it out,
+dredging a _little_ flour, and doubling it in three as before, and roll
+it out thin; do this until from first to last it has been so doubled and
+rolled seven times.
+
+Great cooks differ on one or two points in making pastry; for instance,
+Soyer directs you to put the yolk of an egg instead of the white, and a
+squeeze of lemon juice into the flour, and expressly forbids you to
+work it before adding the mass of butter, while Jules Gouffe says, "work
+it until smooth and shining." I cannot pretend to decide between these
+differing doctors, but I pursue the method I have given and always have
+light pastry. And now to the handling of it: It must only be touched by
+the lightest fingers, every cut must be made with a sharp knife, and
+done with one quick stroke so that the paste is not dragged at all; in
+covering a pie dish or patty pan, you are commonly directed to mold the
+paste over it as thin as possible, which conveys the idea that the paste
+is to be pressed over and so made thin; this would destroy the finest
+paste in the world; roll it thin, say for small tartlets, less than a
+quarter of an inch thick, for a pie a trifle thicker, then lay the dish
+or tin to be covered on the paste, and cut out with a knife, dipped in
+_hot_ water or flour, a piece a little larger than the mold, then line
+with the piece you have cut, touching it as little as possible; press
+only enough to make the paste adhere to the bottom, but on no account
+press the border; to test the necessity of avoiding this, gently press
+one spot on a tart, before putting it in the oven, only so much as many
+people always do in making pie, and watch the result. When your tartlets
+or pies are made, take each up on your left hand, and with a sharp knife
+dipped in flour trim it round quickly. To make the cover of a pie adhere
+to the under crust, lay the forefinger of your right hand lengthwise
+round the border, but as far from the edge as you can, thus forming a
+groove for the syrups, and pressing the cover on at the same time. A
+word here about fruit pies: Pile the fruit high in the center, leaving a
+space all round the sides almost bare of fruit, when the cover is on
+press gently the paste, as I have explained, into this groove, then
+make two or three deep holes in the groove; the juice will boil out of
+these holes and run round this groove, instead of boiling out through
+the edges and wasting.
+
+This is the pastry-cook's way of making pies, and makes a much handsomer
+one than the usual flat method, besides saving your syrup. To ornament
+fruit pies or tartlets, whip the white of an egg, and stir in as much
+powdered sugar as will make a thin meringue--a large tablespoonful is
+usually enough--then when your pies or tartlets are baked, take them
+from the oven, glaze with the egg and sugar, and return to the oven,
+leaving the door open; when it has set into a frosty icing they are
+ready to serve.
+
+It is worth while to accomplish puff paste, for so many dainty trifles
+may be made with it, which, attempted with the ordinary short paste,
+would be unsightly. Some of these that seem to me novel I will describe.
+
+Rissolettes are made with trimmings of puff paste; if you have about a
+quarter of a pound left, roll it out very thin, about as thick as a
+fifty-cent piece; put about half a spoonful of marmalade or jam on it,
+in places about an inch apart, wet lightly round each, and place a piece
+of paste over all; take a small round cutter as large as a dollar, and
+press round the part where the marmalade or jam is with the thick part
+of the cutter; then cut them out with a cutter a size larger, lay them
+on a baking tin, brush over with white of egg; then cut some little
+rings the size of a quarter dollar, put one on each, egg over again, and
+bake twenty minutes in a nice hot oven; then sift white sugar all over,
+put them back in the oven to glaze; a little red currant jelly in each
+ring looks pretty; serve in the form of a pyramid.
+
+PASTRY TABLETS.--Cut strips of paste three inches and a half long, and
+an inch and a half wide, and as thick as a twenty-five cent piece; lay
+on half of them a thin filmy layer of jam or marmalade, not jelly; then
+on each lay a strip without jam, and bake in a quick oven. When the
+paste is well risen and brown, take them out, glaze them with white of
+egg and sugar, and sprinkle chopped almonds over them; return to the
+oven till the glazing is set and the almonds just colored; serve them
+hot or cold on a napkin piled log-cabin fashion.
+
+FRANGIPANE TARTLETS.--One quarter pint of cream, four yolks of eggs, two
+ounces of flour, three macaroons, four tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar,
+the peel of a grated lemon, and a little citron cut very fine, a little
+brandy and orange-flower water. Put all the ingredients, except the
+eggs, in a saucepan--of course you will mix the flour smooth in the
+cream first--let them come to a boil slowly, stirring to prevent lumps;
+when the flour smells cooked, take it off the fire for a minute, then
+stir the beaten yolks of eggs into it. Stand the saucepan in another of
+boiling water and return to the stove, stirring till the eggs seem
+done--about five minutes, if the water boils all the time. Line patty
+pans with puff paste, and fill with frangipane and bake. Ornament with
+chopped almonds and meringue, or not, as you please.
+
+It is very difficult to make fine puff paste in warm weather, and almost
+impossible without ice; for this reason I think the brioche paste
+preferable; but if it is necessary to have it for any purpose, you must
+take the following precautions:
+
+Have your water iced; have your butter as firm as possible by being
+kept on ice till the last moment; make the paste in the coolest place
+you have, and under the breeze of an open window, if possible; make it
+the day before you use it, and put it on the ice between every "turn,"
+as each rolling out is technically called; then leave it on the ice, as
+you use it, taking pieces from it as you need them, so that the warmth
+cannot soften the whole at once, when it would become quite
+unmanageable. The condition of the oven is a very important matter, and
+I cannot do better than transcribe the rules given by Gouffe, by which
+you may test its fitness for any purpose:
+
+Put half a sheet of writing paper in the oven; if it catches fire it is
+too hot; open the dampers and wait ten minutes, when put in another
+piece of paper; if it blackens it is still too hot. Ten minutes later
+put in a third piece; if it _gets dark brown_ the oven is right for all
+small pastry. Called "_dark brown paper heat_." _Light brown paper heat_
+is suitable for _vol-au-vents_ or fruit pies. _Dark yellow paper heat_
+for large pieces of pastry or meat pies, pound cake, bread, etc. _Light
+yellow paper heat_ for sponge cake, meringues, etc.
+
+To obtain these various degrees of heat, you try paper every ten minutes
+till the heat required for your purpose is attained. But remember that
+"light yellow" means the paper only tinged; "dark yellow," the paper the
+color of ordinary pine wood; "light brown" is only a shade darker, about
+the color of nice pie-crust, and dark brown a shade darker, by no means
+coffee color.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IV.
+
+WHAT TO HAVE IN YOUR STORE-ROOM.
+
+
+ONE great trouble with many young housekeepers is betrayed by the common
+remark, "Cookery books always require so many things that one never has
+in the house, and they coolly order you to 'moisten with gravy,' 'take a
+little gravy,' as if you had only to go to the pump and get it." It is
+very true that economy in cooking is much aided by having a supply of
+various condiments; warmed-over meat may then be converted into a
+delicious little entree with little trouble. I would recommend,
+therefore, any one who is in earnest about reforming her dinner table to
+begin by expending a few dollars in the following articles:
+
+
+  1 bottle of capers,
+  1    "      olives,
+  1    "      gherkins,
+  1    "      soy,
+  1    "      anchovies,
+  1    "      tarragon vinegar,
+  1    "      claret,
+  1    "      white wine,
+  1    "      sherry for cooking,
+  1    "      brandy,
+  1    "      Harvey sauce,
+  1    "      walnut ketchup.
+
+And a package of compressed vegetables and a few bay leaves.
+
+
+Ten dollars thus spent may seem a good deal of money to a young
+housewife trying to make her husband's salary go as far as it will; but
+I assure her it is in the end an economy, especially in a small family,
+who are so apt to get tired of seeing the same thing, that it has to be
+thrown or given away. With these condiments and others I have yet to
+mention you will have no trouble in using every scrap; not using it and
+eating it from a sense of duty, and wishing it was something better, but
+enjoying it. With your store-room well provided, you can indeed go for
+gravy "as if to the pump."
+
+Besides the foregoing list of articles to be bought of any good grocer,
+there are others which can be made at home to advantage, and once made
+are always ready. Mushroom powder I prefer for any use to mushroom
+catsup; it is easily made and its uses are infinite. Sprinkled over
+steak (when it must be sifted) or chops, it is delicious. For ordinary
+purposes, such as flavoring soup or gravy, it need not be sifted. To
+prepare it, take a peck of large and very fresh mushrooms, look them
+over carefully that they are not wormy, then cleanse them with a piece
+of flannel from sand or grit, then peel them and put them in the sun or
+a cool oven to dry; they require long, slow drying, and must become in a
+state to crumble. Your peck will have diminished by the process into
+half a pint or less of mushroom powder, but you have the means with it
+of making a rich gravy at a few minutes' notice.
+
+Apropos of gravies--that much-vexed question in small households--for
+without gravies on hand you cannot make good hash, or many other things
+that are miserable without, and excellent with it. Yet how difficult it
+is to have gravy always on hand every mistress of a small family knows,
+in spite of the constant advice to "save your trimming to make stock."
+Do by all means save your bones, gristle, odds and ends of meat of all
+kinds, and convert them into broth; but even if you do, it often happens
+that the days you have done so no gravy is required, and then it sours
+quickly in summer, although it may be arrested by reboiling. In no
+family of three or four are there odds and ends enough, unless there is
+a very extravagant table kept, to insure stock for every day. My remedy
+for this, then, is to make a stock that will keep for months or
+years--in other words, _glaze_. So very rarely forming part of a
+housewife's stores, yet so valuable that the fact is simply astonishing;
+with a piece of glaze, you have a dish of soup on an emergency, rich
+gravy for any purpose, and all with the expenditure of less time than
+would make a pot of sweetmeats.
+
+Take six pounds of a knuckle of veal or leg of beef, cut it in pieces
+the size of an egg, as also half a pound of lean ham; then rub a quarter
+of a pound of butter on the bottom of your pot, which should hold two
+gallons; then put in the meat with half a pint of water, three
+middle-sized onions, with two cloves in each, a turnip, a carrot, and a
+_small_ head of celery; then place over a quick fire, occasionally
+stirring it round, until the bottom of the pot is covered with a thick
+glaze, which will adhere lightly to the spoon; then fill up the pot with
+cold water, and when on the boiling point, draw it to the back of the
+stove, where it may gently simmer three hours, if veal, six if beef,
+carefully skimming it to remove scum. This stock, as it is, will make a
+delicious foundation, with the addition of salt, for all kinds of clear
+soup or gravies. To reduce it to glaze proceed as follows: Pass the
+stock through a fine hair sieve or cloth into a pan; then fill up the
+pot again with _hot_ water, and let it boil four hours longer to obtain
+all the glutinous part from the meat; strain, and pour both stocks in a
+large pot or stew-pan together; set it over the fire, and let it boil
+as fast as possible with the lid off, leaving a large spoon in it to
+prevent it boiling over, and to stir occasionally. When reduced to about
+three pints, pour it into a small stew-pan or saucepan, set again to
+boil, but more slowly, skimming it if necessary; when it is reduced to a
+quart, set it where it will again boil quickly, stirring it well with a
+wooden spoon until it begins to get thick and of a fine yellowish-brown
+color; at this point be careful it does not burn.
+
+You may either pour it into a pot for use, or, what is more convenient
+for making gravies, get a sausage skin from your butcher, cut a yard of
+it, tie one end very tightly, then pour into it by means of a large
+funnel the glaze; from this cut slices for use. A thick slice dissolved
+in hot water makes a cup of nutritious soup, into which you may put any
+cooked vegetables, or rice, or barley. A piece is very useful to take on
+a journey, especially for an invalid who does not want to depend on
+wayside hotel food, or is tired of beef-tea.
+
+The foregoing is the orthodox recipe for glaze, and if you have to buy
+meat for the purpose the very best way in which you can make it; but if
+it happen that you have some strong meat soup or jelly, for which you
+have no use while fresh, then boil it down till it is thick and brown
+(not burnt); it will be excellent glaze; not so fine in flavor, perhaps,
+but it preserves to good use what would otherwise be lost. Very many
+people do not know the value of pork for making jelly. If you live in
+the country and kill a pig, use his hocks for making glaze instead of
+beef.
+
+Glaze also adds much to the beauty of many dishes. If roast beef is not
+quite brown enough on any one spot set your jar of glaze--for this
+purpose it is well to have some put in a jar as well as in the skin--in
+boiling water. Keep a small stiff brush; such as are sold for the
+purpose at house-furnishing stores, called a glazing brush, are best;
+but you may manage with any other or even a stiff feather. When the
+glaze softens, as glue would do, brush over your meat with it, it will
+give the lacking brown; or, if you have a ham or tongue you wish to
+decorate you may "varnish" it, as it were, with the melted glaze; then
+when cold beat some fresh butter to a white cream, and with a kitchen
+syringe, if you have one, a stiff paper funnel if you have not, trace
+any design you please on the glazed surface; this makes a very handsome
+dish, and if your ham has been properly boiled will be very satisfactory
+to the palate. Of the boiling of ham I will speak in another chapter.
+
+I have a few more articles to recommend for your store-room, and then I
+think you will find yourself equal to the emergency of providing an
+elegant little meal if called upon unexpectedly, provided you have any
+cold scraps at all in the house, and _maitre d'hotel_ butter.
+
+To make the latter, take half a pound of fine butter, one tablespoonful
+of very fresh parsley, chopped not too fine, salt, pepper, and a small
+tablespoonful of lemon juice; mix together, but do not work more than
+sufficient for that purpose, and pack in a jar, keeping it in a cool
+place. A tablespoonful of this laid in a hot dish on which you serve
+beefsteak, chops, or any kind of fish, is a great addition, and turns
+plain boiled potatoes into _pomme de terre a la maitre d'hotel_. It is
+excellent with stewed potatoes, or added to anything for which parsley
+is needed, and not always at hand; a spoonful with half the quantity of
+flour stirred into a gill of milk or water makes the renowned _maitre
+d'hotel_ sauce (or English parsley butter) for boiled fish, mutton, or
+veal. In short, it is one of the most valuable things to have in the
+house. Equally valuable, even, and more elegant is the preparation known
+as "Ravigotte" or Montpellier butter.
+
+Take one pound in equal quantities of chervil, tarragon, burnet
+(pimpernel), chives, and garden cress (peppergrass); scald _two_
+minutes, drain quite dry; pound in a mortar three hard eggs, three
+anchovies, and one scant ounce of pickled cucumbers, and same quantity
+of capers well pressed to extract the vinegar; add salt, pepper, and a
+bit of garlic half as large as a pea, rub all through a sieve; then put
+a pound of fine butter into the mortar, which must be well cleansed from
+the herbs, add the herbs, with two tablespoonfuls of oil and one of
+tarragon vinegar, mix perfectly, and if not of a fine green, add the
+juice of some pounded spinach.
+
+This is the celebrated "_beurre de Montpellier_" sold in Paris in tiny
+jars at a high price. Ravigotte is the same thing, only in place of the
+eggs, anchovies, pickles, and capers, put half a pound more butter; it
+is good, but less piquant.
+
+Pack in a jar, and keep cool. This butter is excellent for many
+purposes. For salad, beaten with oil, vinegar, and yolks of eggs, as for
+mayonnaise, it makes a delicious dressing. For cold meat or fish it is
+excellent, and also for chops.
+
+Two or three other articles serve to simplify the art of cooking in its
+especially difficult branches, and in the branches a lady finds
+difficult to attend to herself without remaining in the kitchen until
+the last minute before dinner; but with the aid of blanc and roux a
+fairly intelligent girl can make excellent sauces.
+
+For roux melt slowly half a pound of butter over the fire, skim it, let
+it settle, then dredge in eight ounces of fine flour, stir it till it is
+of a bright brown, then put away in a jar for use.
+
+Blanc is the same thing, only it is not allowed to brown; it should be
+stirred only enough to make all hot through, then put away in a jar.
+
+If you need thickening for a white sauce and do not wish to stand over
+it yourself, having taught your cook the simple fact that a piece of
+blanc put into the milk _before it boils_ (or it will harden instead of
+melt) and allowed to dissolve, stirring constantly, will make the sauce
+you wish, she will be able at all times to produce a white sauce that
+you need not be ashamed of. When the sauce is nearly ready to serve,
+stir in a good piece of butter--a large spoonful to half a pint; when
+mixed, the sauce is ready. Brown sauce can always be made by taking a
+cup of broth or soup and dissolving in the same way a piece of the roux;
+and also, if desired, a piece of Montpellier butter. If there is no soup
+of course you make it with a piece of glaze.
+
+Brown flour is also a convenient thing to have ready; it is simply
+cooking flour in the oven until it is a _pale_ brown; if it is allowed
+to get dark it will be bitter, and, that it may brown evenly, it
+requires to be laid on a large flat baking pan and stirred often. Useful
+for thickening stews, hash, etc.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER V.
+
+LUNCHEON.
+
+
+LUNCHEON is usually, in this country, either a forlorn meal of cold meat
+or hash, or else a sort of early dinner, both of which are a mistake. If
+it is veritably _luncheon_, and not early dinner, it should be as unlike
+that later meal as possible for variety's sake, and, in any but very
+small families, there are so many dishes more suitable for luncheon than
+any other meal, that it is easy to have great variety with very little
+trouble.
+
+I wish it were more the fashion here to have many of the cold dishes
+which are popular on the other side the Atlantic; and, in spite of the
+fact that table prejudices are very difficult to get over, I will append
+a few recipes in the hope that some lady, more progressive than
+prejudiced, may give them a trial, convinced that their excellence,
+appearance, and convenience will win them favor.
+
+By having most dishes cold at luncheon, it makes it a distinct meal from
+the hot breakfast and dinner. In summer, the cold food and a salad is
+especially refreshing; in winter, a nice hot soup or puree--thick soup
+is preferable at luncheon to clear, which is well fitted to precede a
+heavy meal--and some savory _entree_ are very desirable, while cold
+raised pie, galantine, jellied fish, and potted meats may ever, at that
+season, find their appropriate place on the luncheon table. The
+potatoes, which are the only vegetable introduced at strict lunch,
+should be prepared in some fancy manner, as croquettes, mashed and
+browned, _a la maitre d'hotel_, or in snow. The latter mode is pretty
+and novel; I will, therefore, include it in my recipes for luncheon
+dishes. Omelets, too, are excellent at luncheon.
+
+In these remarks I am thinking especially of large families, whose
+luncheon table might be provided with a dish of galantine, one of
+collared fish, and a meat pie, besides the steak, cutlets, or
+warmed-over meat, without anything going to waste. In winter most cold
+jellied articles will keep a fortnight, and in summer three or four
+days.
+
+WINDSOR PIE.--Take slices of veal cutlet, half an inch thick, and very
+thin slices of lean boiled ham; put at the bottom of one of these
+veal-pie dishes or "bakers," about two to three inches deep, a layer of
+the veal, seasoned, then one of ham, then one of force-meat, made as
+follows: Take a little veal, or if you have sausage-meat ready-made, it
+will do, as much fine dry bread-crumbs, a dessert-spoonful of _finely_
+chopped parsley, in which is a salt-spoonful of powdered thyme, savory,
+and marjoram, if you have them, with salt and pepper, and mix with
+enough butter to make it a crumbling paste; lay a _thin_ layer of this
+on the ham, then another of veal, then ham and force-meat again, until
+the dish is quite full. Lay something flat upon it, and then a weight
+for an hour. You must have prepared, from bones and scraps of veal,
+about a pint of stiff veal jelly; pour this over the meat, and then take
+strips of rich puff paste (the _brioche_ paste would be excellent in hot
+weather), wet the edge of the dish, and lay the strips round, pressing
+them lightly to the dish; roll the cover a little larger than the top
+of the dish, and lay it on, first wetting the surface, _not the edge_,
+of the strips round the lips of the dish; press the two together, then
+make a hole in the center and ornament as you please; but I never
+ornament the _edge_ of a pie, as it is apt to prevent the paste from
+rising. An appropriate and simple ornament for meat pies is to roll a
+piece of paste very thin, cut it in four diamond-shaped pieces, put one
+point of each to the hole in the center so that you have one on each
+end, and one each side, then roll another little piece of paste as thin
+as possible, flour it and double it, then double it again, bring all the
+corners together in your hand, like a little bundle, then with a sharp
+knife give a quick cut over the top of the ball of paste, cutting quite
+deeply, then another across; if your cut has been clean and quick, you
+will now be able to turn half back the leaves of paste as if it were a
+half-blown rose. The ends which you have gathered together in your hand
+are to be inserted in the hole in the center of the pie. Then brush over
+with yolk of egg beaten very well in a little milk or water, and bake an
+hour and a half.
+
+This way of covering and ornamenting a pie is appropriate for all meat
+pies; pigeon pie should, however, have the little red feet skinned by
+dipping in boiling water, then rubbed in a cloth, when skin and nails
+peel off; if allowed to lie in the water, the flesh comes too; then one
+pair is put at each end of the pie, a hole being cut to insert them, or
+four are put in the center instead of the rose.
+
+The Windsor pie is intended to be eaten cold, as are all veal and ham
+pies, the beauty of the jelly being lost in a hot pie. Do not fail to
+try it on that account, for cold pies are excellent things.
+
+ANOTHER VEAL AND HAM PIE, more usual, and probably the "weal and hammer"
+that "mellered the organ" of Silas Wegg, was manufactured by Mrs. Boffin
+from this recipe; it is as follows:
+
+Take the thick part of breast of veal, removing all the bones, which put
+on for gravy, stewing them long and slowly; put a layer of veal, pepper
+and salt, then a thin sprinkling of ham; if boiled, cut in slices; if
+raw, cut a slice in dice, which scald before using, then more veal and
+again ham. If force-meat balls are liked, make some force-meat as for
+Windsor pie, using if you prefer it chopped hard-boiled eggs in place of
+chopped meat, and binding into a paste with a raw egg; then make into
+balls, which drop into the crevices of the pie; boil two or three eggs
+quite hard, cut each in four and lay them round the sides and over the
+top, pour in about a gill of gravy, and cover the same as the Windsor
+pie. In either of these pies the force-meat may be left out, a
+sweetbread cut up, or mushrooms put in.
+
+A chicken pie to eat cold is very fine made in this way.
+
+RAISED PORK PIES are so familiar to every one who has visited England,
+and, in spite of the greasy idea, are so very good, that I introduce a
+well-tried recipe, feeling sure any one who eats pork at all will find
+it worth while to give them a trial; they will follow it with many
+another.
+
+The paste for them is made as follows:
+
+Rub into two pounds of flour a liberal half pound of butter, then melt
+in half a pint of hot, but not boiling milk, another half pound--or it
+may be lard; pour this into the flour, and knead it into a smooth, firm
+paste. Properly raised pies should be molded by hand, and I will
+endeavor to describe the method in case any persevering lady would like
+to try and have the orthodox thing. But pie molds of tin, opening at
+the side, are to be bought, and save much trouble; the mold, if used,
+should be well buttered, and the pie taken out when done, and returned
+to the oven for the sides to brown.
+
+To "raise" a pie, proceed thus: While the paste is warm, form a ball of
+paste into a cone; then with the fist work inside it, till it forms an
+oval cup; continue to knead till you have the walls of an even
+thickness, then pinch a fold all around the bottom. If properly done,
+you have an oval, flat-bottomed crust, with sides about two inches high;
+fill this with pork, fat and lean together, well peppered and salted;
+then work an oval cover, as near the size of the bottom cover as you
+can, and wet the edges of the wall, lay the cover on, and pinch to match
+the bottom; ornament as directed for Windsor pie, wash with egg, and
+bake a pale brown in a moderate oven; they must be well cooked, or the
+meat will not be good. One containing a pound of meat may be cooked an
+hour and a quarter. All these pies are served in slices, cut through to
+the bottom.
+
+Galantines are very handsome dishes, not very difficult to make, and
+generally popular. I give a recipe for a very simple and delicious one:
+
+Take a fine breast of veal, remove all gristle, tendons, bones, and trim
+to fifteen inches in length and eight wide; use the trimmings and bones
+to help make the jelly, then put on the meat a layer of force-meat made
+thus: Take one pound of sausage meat, or lean veal, to which add half a
+pound of bread-crumbs, parsley and thyme to taste; grate a _little_
+nutmeg, pepper, salt, and the juice of half a lemon; have also some long
+strips an inch thick of fat bacon or pork, and lean of veal, and lean
+ham, well seasoned with pepper, salt, and finely chopped shallots. Lay
+on the meat a layer of force-meat an inch thick, leaving an inch and a
+half on each side uncovered; then lay on your strips of ham, veal, and
+bacon fat, alternately; then another of force-meat, but only half an
+inch thick, as too much force-meat will spoil the appearance of the
+dish; if you have any cold tongue, lay some strips in, also a few
+blanched pistachio nuts (to be obtained of a confectioner) will give the
+appearance of true French galantine. Roll up the veal, and sew it with a
+packing or coarse needle and fine twine, tie it firmly up in a piece of
+linen. Observe that you do not put your pistachio nuts amid the
+force-meat, where, being green, their appearance would be lost; put them
+in crevices of the meats.
+
+Cook this in sufficient water to cover, in which you must have the
+trimmings of the breast and a knuckle of veal, or hock of pork, two
+onions, a carrot, half a head of celery, two cloves, a blade of mace,
+and a good bunch of parsley, thyme and bay leaf, two ounces of salt. Set
+the pot on the fire till it is at boiling point, then draw it to the
+back and let it simmer three hours, skimming carefully; then take it
+from the fire, leaving it in the stock till nearly cold; then take it
+out, remove the string from the napkin, and roll the galantine up
+tighter--if too tight at first it will be hard--tying the napkin at each
+end only; then place it on a dish, set another dish on it, on which
+place a fourteen-pound weight; this will cause it to cut firm. When
+quite cold, remove strings and cloth, and it is ready to be ornamented
+with jelly. When the stock in which the galantine was cooked is cold
+take off the fat and clarify it, first trying, however, if it is in
+right condition, by putting a little on ice. If it is not stiff enough
+to cut firm, you must reduce it by boiling; if too stiff, that is
+approaching glaze, add a _little_ water, then clarify by adding whites
+of eggs, as directed to clarify soup (see soups). A glass of sherry and
+two spoonfuls of tarragon or common vinegar are a great improvement.
+Some people like this jelly cut in dice, to ornament the galantine, part
+of it may then also serve to ornament other dishes at the table. But I
+prefer to have the galantine enveloped in jelly, which may be done by
+putting it in an oblong soup tureen or other vessel that will contain
+it, leaving an inch space all round, then pouring the jelly over it.
+
+Jellied fish is a favorite dish with many, and is very simple to
+prepare; it is also very ornamental. Take flounders or almost any flat
+fish that is cheapest at the time you require them. Clean and scrape
+them, cut them in small pieces, but do not cut off the fins; put them in
+a stew-pan with a few small button onions or one large one, a half
+teaspoonful of sugar, a glass of sherry, a dessert-spoonful of lemon
+juice, and a small bunch of parsley. To one large flounder put a quart
+of water, and if you are going to jelly oysters put in their liquor and
+a little salt. Stew long and slowly, skimming well; then strain, and if
+not perfectly clear clarify as elsewhere directed. (See if your stock
+jellies, by trying it on ice before you clarify.) Now take a mold, put
+in it pieces of cold salmon, eels that have been cooked, or oysters, the
+latter only just cooked enough in the stock to plump them; pour a little
+of the jelly in the mold, then three or four half slices of lemon, then
+oysters or the cold fish, until the mold is near full, disposing the
+lemon so that it will be near the sides and decorate the jelly; then
+pour the rest of the jelly over all and stand in boiling water for a few
+minutes, then put it in a cold place, on ice is best, for some hours.
+When about to serve, dip the mold in hot water, turn out on a dish,
+garnish with lettuce leaves or parsley and hard-boiled eggs. The latter
+may be introduced into the jelly cut in quarters if it is desired; very
+ornamental force-meat balls made bright green with spinach juice are
+also an improvement in appearance.
+
+A NEW MAYONNAISE (Soyer's).--Put a quarter of a pint of stiff veal jelly
+(that has been nicely flavored with vegetables) on ice in a bowl,
+whisking it till it is a white froth; then add half a pint of salad oil
+and six spoonfuls of tarragon vinegar, _by degrees_, first oil, then
+vinegar, continually whisking till it forms a white, smooth, sauce-like
+cream; season with half a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter ditto of white
+pepper, and a very little sugar, whisk it a little more and it is ready.
+It should be dressed pyramidically over the article it is served with.
+The advantage of this sauce is that (although more delicate than any
+other) you may dress it to any height you like, and it will remain so
+any length of time; if the temperature is cool, it will remain hours
+without appearing greasy or melting. It is absolutely necessary,
+however, that it should be prepared on ice.
+
+All these dishes, however, are only adapted for large families, but
+there are several ways of improving on the ordinary lunch table of very
+small ones. And nothing is more pleasant for the mistress of one of
+these very small families than to have a friend drop in to lunch, and
+have a _recherche_ lunch to offer with little trouble. Warming over will
+aid her in this, and to that chapter I refer her; but there are one or
+two ways of having cold relishes always ready, which help out an
+impromptu meal wonderfully.
+
+Potted meats are a great resource to English housekeepers; this side
+the Atlantic they are chiefly known through the medium of Cross &
+Blackwell, though latterly one or two American firms have introduced
+some very admirable articles of the sort. Home-made potted meats are,
+however, better and less expensive than those bought; they should be
+packed away in jars, Liebig's extract of meat jars not being too small
+for the purpose, as, while covered with the fat they keep well; once
+opened, they require eating within a week or ten days, except in very
+cold weather.
+
+Potted bloater is one of the least expensive and appetizing of all
+potted meats. To make it, take two or three or more bloaters, cut off
+the heads and cleanse them, put them in the oven long enough to cook
+them through; take them out, take off the skin, and remove the meat from
+the bones carefully; put the meat of the fish in a jar with half its
+weight of butter, leave it to _slowly_ cook in a cool oven for an hour,
+then take it out, put the fish into a mortar or strong dish, pour the
+butter on it carefully, but don't let the gravy pass too, unless the
+fish is to be eaten very quickly, as it would prevent it keeping. Beat
+both butter and fish till they form a paste, add a little cayenne, and
+press it into small pots, pouring on each melted butter, or mutton suet.
+Either should be the third of an inch thick on the bloater. This makes
+excellent sandwiches.
+
+POTTED HAM.--Take any remains of ham you have, even fried, if of a nice
+quality, is good for the purpose; take away all stringy parts, sinew, or
+gristle, put it in a slow oven with its weight of butter, let it stay
+macerating in the butter till very tender, then beat it in a mortar, add
+cayenne, and pack in pots in the same way as the bloater. Thus you may
+pot odds and ends of any meat or fish you have, and as a little potted
+meat goes a long way, when you have a little lobster, a bit of chicken
+breast, or even cold veal, I advise you to use it in this way; you will
+then have a little stock of dainties in the house to fall back on at any
+time for unexpected calls--a very important thing in the country.
+
+Potted chicken or veal requires either a little tongue or lean ham to
+give flavor; but failing these, a little ravigotte butter, beaten in
+after the meat is well pounded, is by no means a bad substitute.
+
+Many people like the flavor of anchovies, but do not like the idea of
+eating raw fish; for these anchovy butter is very acceptable.
+
+Take the anchovies out of the liquor in which they are packed, but do
+not wash them, put them in twice their weight of butter in a jar, which
+stand in boiling water; set all back of the stove for an hour, then
+pound, add cayenne, and pack in glasses.
+
+Unexpected company to luncheon with a lady who has to eat that meal
+alone generally, and (as is the unwise way of such ladies) makes it a
+very slender meal, is one of the ordeals of a young housekeeper; company
+to lunch and nothing in the house. But there is generally a dainty
+luncheon in every house if you know how to prepare it; there certainly
+always will be if you keep your store-room supplied with the things I
+have named. Let the table be prettily laid at all times, then if you
+have potted meat and preserves, have them put on the table. Are there
+cold potatoes? If so cut them up into potato salad, if they are whole;
+if broken, warm them in a wineglass of milk, a teaspoonful of flour,
+and a piece as large as an egg of _maitre d'hotel_ butter. Have you
+such scraps of cold meat as could not come to table? Toss them up with a
+half cup of water, a slice of glaze (oh, blessed ever-ready glaze!) a
+teaspoonful of ravigotte, or _maitre d'hotel_, and a teaspoonful of roux
+or blanc, according as your meat is light or dark, season, and serve. Or
+you have no meat, then you have eggs, and what better than an omelet and
+such an omelet as the following? Take the crumb of a slice of bread,
+soak it in hot milk (cold will do, but hot is better), beat up whites of
+four eggs to a high froth; mix the bread with all the milk it will
+absorb, _no more_, into a paste, add the yolks of eggs with a little
+salt, set the pan on the fire with an ounce of butter. Let it get very
+hot, then mix the whites of eggs with the yolks and bread lightly, pour
+in the pan, and move about for a minute; if the oven is hot, when the
+omelet is brown underneath, set the pan in the oven for five minutes, or
+until the top is set; then double half over, and serve. If your guests
+have a liking for sweets, and your potted meats supply the savory part
+of your luncheon, then have a brown gravy ready to serve with it. Put
+into a half cup of boiling water a slice of glaze, a spoonful of roux,
+and enough Harvey sauce, or mushroom powder, to flavor. If your omelet
+is to be sweet, before you fold it put in a layer of preserves.
+
+The advantage of the omelet I have here given is that it keeps plump and
+tender till cold, so that five minutes of waiting does not turn it into
+leather, the great objection with omelets generally.
+
+Potatoes for luncheon, as I have said, should always be prepared in some
+fancy way, and snow is a very pretty one. Have some fine mealy potatoes
+boiled, carefully poured off, and set back of the stove with a cloth
+over them till they are quite dry and fall apart; then have a colander,
+or coarse wire sieve made _hot_ and a _hot_ dish in which to serve them,
+pass the floury potatoes through the sieve, taking care not to crush the
+snow as it falls. You require a large dish heaping full, and be
+careful it is kept hot.
+
+This mode of preparing potatoes, although very pretty and novel, must
+never be attempted with any but the whitest and mealiest kind.
+
+The remains of cold potatoes may be prepared thus: Put three ounces of
+butter in a frying-pan in which fry three onions sliced till tender, but
+not very brown, then put on the potatoes cut in slices, and shake them
+till they are of a nice brown color, put a spoonful of chopped parsley,
+salt, pepper, and juice of a lemon, shake well that all may mix
+together, dish, and serve very hot.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VI.
+
+A CHAPTER ON GENERAL MANAGEMENT IN VERY SMALL FAMILIES.
+
+
+A VERY small family, "a young _menage_," for instance, is very much more
+difficult to cater for without waste than a larger one; two people are
+so apt to get tired of anything, be it ever so good eating, when it has
+been on the table once or twice; therefore it would be useless to make
+galantine or the large pies I have indicated, except for occasions when
+guests are expected; but, as I hope to aid young housekeepers to have
+nice dishes when alone, I will devote this chapter to their needs.
+
+The chapter on "Warming Over" will be very useful also to this large
+class.
+
+In the first place it is well to have regard, when part of a dish leaves
+the table, as to whether it, or any particular part of it, will make a
+nice little cold dish, or a _rechauffe_; in that case have it saved,
+unless it is required for the servants' dinner (it is well to manage so
+that it is not needed for that purpose); for instance, if there is the
+wing and a slice or two of the breast of a chicken left, it will make a
+dainty little breakfast dish, or cold, in jelly, be nice for lunch.
+There is always jelly if you have roast chicken, if you manage properly,
+and this is how you do it:
+
+Carefully save the feet, throat, gizzard, and liver of your chickens;
+scald the feet by pouring boiling water over them; leave them just a
+minute, and pull off the outer skin and nails; they come away very
+readily, leaving the feet delicately white; put these with the other
+giblets, properly cleansed, into a small saucepan with an onion, a slice
+of carrot, a sprig of parsley, and a pint of water (if you have the
+giblets of one chicken), if of two, put a quart; let this _slowly_
+simmer for two hours and a half; it will be reduced to about half, and
+form a stiff jelly when cold; a glass of sherry, and squeeze of lemon,
+or teaspoonful of tarragon vinegar, makes this into a delicious aspic,
+and should be added if to be eaten cold. The jelly must of course be
+strained.
+
+In roasting chickens, if you follow the rule for meat, that is, put no
+water in the pan, but a piece of butter, and dredge a _very little_
+flour over the chicken, you will have a nice brown glaze at the bottom
+of the pan, provided it has been cooked in a _quick oven_; if in a cool
+oven there will be nothing brown at all; but we will suppose the bird is
+browned to a turn; pour your gravy from the giblets into the pan, take
+off every bit of the glaze or osma-zone that adheres, and let it
+dissolve, rubbing it with the back of the spoon; then, if you are likely
+to have any chicken left cold, pour off a little gravy in a cup through
+a fine strainer, leaving in your pan sufficient for the dinner; in this
+mash up the liver till it is a smooth paste which thickens the gravy,
+and serve. Some object to liver, therefore the use of it is a matter of
+taste. If you dress the chickens English fashion, you will _need_ the
+liver and gizzard to tuck under the wings; in this case, stew only the
+feet and throat, using a little meat of any kind, if you have it, to
+take their place; but on no account fail to use the feet, as they are as
+rich in jelly as calves' feet in proportion to their size.
+
+The jelly laid aside will be enough to ornament and give relish to a
+little dish of cold chicken, and changes it from a dry and commonplace
+thing to a _recherche_ one. If two chickens are cooked it is more
+economical than one; there is, then, double the amount of gravy,
+generally sufficient, if you lay some very nice pieces of cold chicken
+in a bowl, to pour over it and leave it enveloped in jelly; you still
+then, if from dinner for two people, have perhaps joints enough to make
+a dish of curry or fricassee, or any of the many ways in which cold
+chicken may be used, for which see chapter on "_Warming Over_."
+
+For small households large joints are to be avoided, but even a small
+roast is a large joint when there are but two or three to eat it. For
+this reason it is a good plan to buy such joints as divide well. A
+sirloin of beef is better made into two fine dishes than into one roast,
+and then warmed over twice. Every one knows that "_Filet de b[oe]uf
+Chateaubriand_" is one of the classical dishes of the French table, that
+to a Frenchman luxury can go no further; but every one does not know how
+entirely within his power it is to have that dish as often as he has
+roast beef; how convenient it would be to so have it. Here it is: When
+your sirloin roast comes from the butcher, take out the tenderloin or
+fillets, which you must always choose thick; cut it across into steaks
+an inch thick, trim them, cover them with a coat of butter (or oil,
+which is much better), and broil them ten minutes, turning them often;
+garnish with fried potatoes, and serve with _sauce Chateaubriand_, as
+follows: Put a gill of white wine (or claret will do if you have no
+white) into a saucepan, with a piece of glaze, weighing an ounce and a
+half; add three quarters of a pint of _espagnole_, and simmer fifteen
+minutes; when ready to serve, thicken with two ounces of _maitre
+d'hotel_ butter in which a dessert-spoonful of flour has been worked.
+That is how Jules Gouffe's recipe runs; but, as no small family will
+keep _espagnole_ ready made, allow a little more glaze (of course the
+recipe as given may be divided to half or quarter, provided the correct
+proportions are retained), and use a tablespoonful of roux and the
+_maitre d'hotel_ butter, both of which you have probably in your
+store-room; if not, brown a little flour, chop some parsley, and add to
+two ounces of butter; work them together, then let them dissolve in the
+sauce, for which purpose let it go off the boil; let the sauce simmer a
+minute, skim, and serve.
+
+The sirloin of beef, denuded of its fillet, is still a good roast; and
+as you can't have your cake and eat it too, and hot fresh roast beef is
+better than the same warmed over, warm ye never so wisely, I think this
+plan may commend itself to those who like nice _little_ dinners.
+
+A nice little dinner of a soup, an _entree_, or made dish, salad, and
+dessert, really costs no more than frequent roast meat, or even steak
+and pudding, by following some such plan as this:
+
+Sunday.--_Pot-au-feu_ and roast lamb, leg of mutton or other good joint,
+etc.
+
+Monday.--Rice or vermicelli soup made with remains of the _bouillon_
+from _pot-au-feu_. If the Sunday joint was a fore or hindquarter of lamb
+it should have been divided, say the leg from the loin, thus providing
+choice roasts for two days, and yet having enough cold lamb--that
+favorite dish with so many--for luncheon with a salad; and, surprising
+to say, after hot roast lamb for dinner Sunday, cold lunch for Monday,
+another roast Monday, and cold or warmed up for lunch Tuesday, there
+will still be (supposing as I do, in preparing this chapter, that the
+family consists only of gentleman, lady, and servant) remains enough
+from the two cold joints to make cromesquis of lamb (see recipe), a
+little dish of mince, or a delicate _saute_ of lamb for breakfast. It is
+surprising what may be done with odds and ends in a small family; a tiny
+plate of pieces, far too small to make an appearance on the table, and
+which, if special directions are not given, will seem to Bridget not
+worth saving, will, with each piece dipped into the batter _a la
+Careme_, and fried in hot fat, make a tempting dish for breakfast, or an
+_entree_ for dinner or luncheon. Two tablespoonfuls only of chopped meat
+of any kind will make croquettes for two or three people; hence, 'save
+the pieces.' But to return to our bills of fare: I have given the two
+roasts of lamb for consecutive days, because the weather in lamb season
+is usually too warm to keep it; when this can be done, however, it is
+pleasanter to leave the second joint of lamb till Tuesday. Should a
+forequarter (abroad held in greater esteem than the hindquarter) have
+been chosen, get the butcher to take out the shoulder in one round thick
+joint, English fashion; this crisply roasted is far more delicious than
+the leg; you then have the chops to be breaded, and an excellent dish of
+the neck and breast, either broiled, curried, stewed with peas, or
+roast.
+
+Yet how often we see a whole quarter of lamb put in the oven for two or
+three people who get tired of the sight of it cold, yet feel in economy
+bound to eat it.
+
+Should sirloin of beef have been the Sunday dinner, you will know what
+to do with it, from directions already given; and as a sirloin of beef,
+even with the fillet out, will be more than required for one dinner, it
+may serve for a third day, dressed in one of the various ways I shall
+give in chapter on "Warming Over." You have still at your disposal the
+bouilli or beef from which you have made your _pot-au-feu_, which, if it
+has been carefully boiled, not galloped, nor allowed to fall to rags, is
+very good eating. Cut thin with lettuce, or in winter celery, in about
+equal quantities, and a good salad dressing, it is excellent; or, made
+into hash, fritadella, or even rissoles, is savory and delicious; only
+bear in mind with this, as all cooked meats, the gravy drawn out must be
+replaced by stock or glaze; it is very easy to warm over bouilli
+satisfactorily, as a cup of the soup made from it can always be kept for
+gravy.
+
+A leg of mutton makes two excellent joints, and is seldom liked cold--as
+beef and lamb often are.
+
+Select a large fine leg, have it cut across, that each part may weigh
+about equally; roast the thick or fillet end and serve with or without
+onion sauce (_a la soubise_); boil the knuckle in a small quantity of
+water, just enough to cover it, with a carrot, turnip, onion, and bunch
+of parsley, and salt in the water, serve with caper sauce and mashed
+turnips. The broth from this is excellent soup served thus: Skim it
+carefully, take out the vegetables, and chop a small quantity of parsley
+very fine, then beat up in a bowl two eggs, pour into them a little of
+the broth--not boiling--beating all the time, then draw your soup back
+till it is off the boil, and pour in the eggs, stirring continually till
+it is on the boiling point again (but it must not boil, or the eggs will
+curdle and spoil the soup), and then turn it into a _hot_ tureen and
+serve. Use remains of the cold roast and boiled mutton together, to make
+made dishes; between the days of having the roast and boiled mutton you
+may have had a fowl, and the remains from that will make you a second
+dish to go with your joint.
+
+The remains from the first cooked mutton, in form of curry, mince,
+salmi, or _saute_, will be a second dish with your fowl.
+
+Veal is one of the most convenient things to have for a small family, as
+it warms over in a variety of ways, and in some is actually better than
+when put on the table as a joint. By having a little fish one day,
+instead of soup, and a little game another, and remembering when you
+have an especially dainty thing, to have one with it a little more
+substantial and less costly, you may have variety at little expense.
+
+For instance, if you find it convenient to have for dinner fritadella
+(see "_Warming Over_") or miroton of beef, or cold mutton curried, you
+might have broiled birds, or roast pigeon, or game. In this consists
+good management, to live so that the expenses of one day balance those
+of the other--unless you are so happily situated that expense is a small
+matter, in which case these remarks will not apply to you at all. Then,
+never mind warming over, or making one joint into two; let your poor
+neighbors and Bridget's friends enjoy your superfluity. To the woman
+with a moderate income it usually is a matter of importance, or ought to
+be, that her weekly expenditure should not exceed a certain amount, and
+for this she must arrange that any extra expense is balanced by a
+subsequent economy.
+
+Salads add much to the health and elegance of a dinner; it is in early
+spring an expensive item if lettuce is used; but no salad can be more
+delicious or more healthful than dressed celery; and by buying when
+cheap, arranging with a man to lay in your cellar, covered with soil,
+enough for the winter's use, it need cost but moderately. Celeriac, or
+turnip-rooted celery is another salad that is very popular with our
+German friends; it is a bulbous celery, the root being the part eaten;
+these are cooked like potatoes, cut in slices, and dressed with oil and
+vinegar, or mayonnaise, it is exceedingly good. Potato salad is always
+procurable, and in summer at lunch, instead of the hot vegetable, or in
+winter when green salad is dear, is very valuable. It may be varied by
+the addition, one day, of a few chopped pickles, another, a little
+onion, or celery, or parsley, or tarragon, a little ravigotte butter
+beaten to cream with the vinegar, or with meat, as follows: Boil the
+potatoes in their skins, peel them, cut them into pieces twice the
+thickness of a fifty-cent piece, and put them into a salad bowl with
+cold meat (bouilli from soup is excellent); put to them a teaspoonful of
+salt, half that quantity of pepper, two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, three
+or even four of oil, and a teaspoonful of chopped parsley. You can vary
+this by putting at different times some chopped celery or pickles,
+olives, or anchovies.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VII.
+
+ON FRYING AND BROILING.
+
+
+FRYING is one of the operations in cookery in which there are more
+failures than any other, or, at least, there appear to be more, because
+the failure is always so very apparent. Nothing can make a dish of
+breaded cutlets on which are bald white spots look inviting, or
+livid-looking fish, just flaked here and there with the bread that has
+been persuaded to stay on. And, provided you have enough fat in the
+pan--there should always be enough to immerse the article; therefore use
+a deep iron or enameled pan--there can be but two reasons why you fail.
+Your fat has not been hot enough, or your crumbs have not been fine and
+_even_.
+
+Many suppose when the fat bubbles and boils in the pan that it is quite
+hot; it is far from being so. Others again are so much nearer the truth
+that they know it must become _silent_, that is, boil and cease to boil,
+before it is ready, but even that is not enough; it must be silent some
+time, smoke, and appear to be on the point of burning, then drop a bit
+of bread in; if it crisps and takes color directly, quickly put in your
+articles.
+
+These articles, whether cutlets or fish, must have been carefully
+prepared, or herein may lie the second cause of failure. Any cookery
+book will give you directions how to crumb, follow them; but what some
+do not tell you is, that your bread-crumbs should be _finely sifted_;
+every coarse crumb is liable to drop off and bring with it a good deal
+of the surrounding surface.
+
+I also follow the French plan in using the egg, and mix with it oil and
+water in the proportion of three eggs, one tablespoonful of oil, one of
+water, and a little salt, beat together and use. It is a good plan to
+keep a supply of _panure_ or dried bread-crumbs always ready. Cut any
+slices of baker's bread, dry them in a cool oven so that they remain
+quite colorless, or they will not do for the purpose. When as dry as
+crackers, crush under a rolling-pin, and sift; keep in a jar for use.
+
+In no branch of cooking is excellence more appreciated than in that of
+frying. A dish of _filets de sole_ or cutlets, crisp and golden brown,
+is an ornament to any table, and is seldom disdained by any one. Apropos
+of _filets de sole_; it is very high-sounding yet very attainable, as I
+shall show. I was staying with a friend early in spring, a lady always
+anxious for table novelties. "Oh, do tell me what fish to order, I
+should like something fried, now that you are here to tell cook how to
+do it; she hasn't the wildest idea, although she would be astounded to
+hear me say so." "Have you ever had flounders?" I asked. "Flounders!" My
+friend's pretty nose went up the eighth of an inch, and her confidence
+in my powers as counselor went down to zero. "Flounders! but they are a
+very common fish you know." "I know they are very delicious," I
+answered. "Order them, and trust me; but I must coax the autocrat of
+your kitchen to allow me to cook and prepare them myself."
+
+An hour before dinner I went into the kitchen, put at least a pound of
+lard into a deep frying-pan, and set it where it would get gradually
+hot, then I turned my attention to the fish; they were thick, firm
+flounders, and were ready cleaned, scraped, and the heads off. I then
+proceeded to bone one in the following way: Take a sharp knife and split
+the flounder right down the middle of the back, then run the knife
+carefully between the flesh and bones going toward the edge. You have
+now detached one quarter of the flesh from the bone, do the other half
+in the same way, and when the back is thus entirely loose from the bone,
+turn the fish over and do the same with the other part. You will now
+find you can remove the bone whole from the fish, detaching, as you do
+so, any flesh still retaining the bone, then you have two halves of the
+fish; cut away the fins, and you have four quarters of solid fish. Now
+see if the fat is very hot, set it forward while you wipe your fish dry,
+and dip each piece in milk, then in flour. Try if the fat is hot by
+dropping a crumb into it; if it browns at once, put in the fish. When
+they are beautifully brown, which will be in about ten minutes, take
+them up in the colander, and then lay them on a towel to absorb any fat,
+lay them on a hot dish, and garnish with slices of lemon and parsley or
+celery tops.
+
+Now when this dish made its appearance, my friend's husband, a _bon
+vivant_, greeted it with, "Aha! _Filets de sole a la Delmonico_," and as
+nothing to the contrary was said until dinner was over, he ate them
+under the impression that they were veritable _filets de sole_. Of
+course I can't pretend to say whether M. Delmonico imports his soles, or
+uses the homely flounder; but I do know that one of his frequenters knew
+no difference.
+
+Oysters should be laid on a cloth to drain thoroughly, then rolled in
+fine sifted cracker dust, and dropped into very hot fat; do not put more
+oysters in the pan than will fry without one overlapping the other.
+Very few minutes will brown them beautifully, if your fat was hot
+enough, and as a minute too long toughens and shrinks them, be very
+careful that it browns a cube of bread almost directly, before you begin
+the oysters. Egg and bread-crumb may be used instead of cracker dust,
+but it is not the proper thing, and is a great deal more trouble. Should
+you be desirous of using it, however, the oysters must be carefully
+wiped _dry_ before dipping them; while for cracker dust they are not
+wiped, but only drained well.
+
+Fish of any kind, fried in batter _a la Careme_ (see recipe), is very
+easy to do, and very nice.
+
+Carefully save veal, lamb, beef, and pork drippings. Keep a crock to put
+it in, and, clarified as I shall direct, it is much better than lard for
+many purposes, and for frying especially; it does not leave the dark
+look that is sometimes seen on articles fried in lard. The perfection of
+"friture," or frying-fat, according to Gouffe, is equal parts of lard
+and beef fat melted together.
+
+Yet there are families where dripping is never used--is looked upon as
+unfit to use--while the truth is that many persons quite unable to eat
+articles fried in lard would find no inconvenience from those fried in
+beef fat. It is as wholesome as butter, and far better for the purpose.
+Butter, indeed, is only good for frying such things as omelets or
+scrambled eggs; things that are cooked in a very short time, and require
+no great degree of heat.
+
+The same may be said of oil, than which, for fish, nothing can be
+better. Yet it can only be used once, and is unsuitable for things
+requiring long-sustained heat, as it soon gets bitter and rank.
+
+Do not be afraid to put a pound or two of fat in your pan for frying; it
+is quite as economical as to put less for it can be used over and over
+again, a pail or crock being kept for the purpose of receiving it.
+Always in returning it to the crock pour it through a fine strainer, so
+that no sediment or brown particles may pass which would spoil the next
+frying.
+
+To clarify dripping, when poured from the meat-pan, it should go into a
+bowl, instead of the crock in which you wish to keep it. Then pour into
+the bowl also some boiling water, and add a little salt, stir it, and
+set it away. Next day, or when cold, run a knife round the bowl, and
+(unless it is pork) it will turn out in a solid cake, leaving the water
+and impurities at the bottom. Now scrape the bottom of your dripping,
+and put it in more boiling water till it melts, then stir again, another
+pinch of salt add, and let it cool again. When you take off the cake of
+fat, scrape it as before, and it is ready to be melted into the general
+crock, and will now keep for months in cool weather. If you are having
+frequent joints it is as well to do all your dripping together, once a
+week; but do not leave it long at any season with water under it, as
+that would taint it. Fat skimmed from boiled meat, _pot-au-feu_, before
+the vegetables, etc., go in, is quite as good as that from roast,
+treated in the same way.
+
+Frying in batter is very easy and excellent for some things, such as
+warming over meat, being far better than eggs and crumbs. Careme gives
+the following recipe, which is excellent:
+
+Three quarters of a pound of sifted flour, mixed with two ounces of
+butter melted in warm water; blow the butter off the water into the
+flour first, then enough of the water to make a _soft_ paste, which
+beat smooth, then more warm water till it is batter thick enough to mask
+the back of a spoon dipped into it, and salt to taste; add the _last
+thing_ the whites of two eggs well beaten.
+
+Another batter, called _a la Provencale_, is also exceedingly good,
+especially for articles a little dry in themselves, such as chickens to
+be warmed over, slices of cold veal, etc.
+
+Take same quantity of flour, two yolks of eggs, four tablespoonfuls of
+oil, mix with _cold_ water, and add whites of eggs and salt as before.
+Into this batter I sometimes put a little chopped parsley, and the least
+bit of powdered thyme, or grated lemon-peel, or nutmeg; this is,
+however, only a matter of taste.
+
+BROILING is the simplest of all forms of cooking, and is essentially
+English. To broil well is very easy with a little attention. A brisk
+clear fire, not too high in the stove, is necessary to do it with ease;
+yet if, as must sometimes happen, to meet the necessities of other
+cooking, your fire is very large, carefully fix the gridiron on two
+bricks or in any convenient manner, to prevent the meat scorching, then
+have the gridiron _very hot_ before putting your meat upon it; turn it,
+if chop or steak, as soon as the gravy begins to start on the upper
+side; if allowed to remain without turning long, the gravy forms a pool
+on the top, which, when turned, falls into the fire and is lost; the
+action of the heat, if turned quickly, seals the pores and the gravy
+remains in the meat. If the fire is not very clear, put a cover over the
+meat on the gridiron, it will prevent its blackening or burning--if the
+article is thick I always do so--and it is an especially good plan with
+birds or chickens, which are apt to be raw at the joints unless this is
+done; indeed, with the latter, I think it a good way to put them in a
+hot oven ten minutes before they go on to broil, then have a spoonful of
+_maitre d'hotel_ butter to lay on the breast of each. Young spring
+chickens are sometimes very dry, in which case dip them in melted
+butter, or, better still, oil them all over a little while before
+cooking. There is nothing more unsightly than a sprawling dish of
+broiled chickens; therefore, in preparing them place them in good form,
+then, with a gentle blow of the rolling-pin, break the bones that they
+may remain so.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER VIII.
+
+ROASTING.
+
+
+IN spite of Brillat-Savarin's maxim that one may become a cook, but must
+be born a _rotisseur_, I am inclined to think one may also, by
+remembering one or two things, become a very good "roaster" (to
+translate the untranslatable), especially in our day, when the oven has
+taken the place of the spit, although a great deal of meat is spoiled in
+roasting; a loin of lamb or piece of beef, that comes to the table so
+pale that you can't tell whether it has been boiled or merely wilted in
+the oven, is an aggravation so familiar, that a rich brown, well-roasted
+joint is generally a surprise. Perhaps the cook will tell you she has
+had the "hottest kind of an oven;" but then she has probably also had a
+well of water underneath it, the vapor from which, arising all the time,
+has effectually soddened the meat, and checked the browning. The surface
+of roast meat should be covered with a rich glaze, scientifically called
+"osma-zone." That the meat may be thus glazed, it should always go into
+a _hot_ oven, so that, as the gravy exudes, it may congeal on the
+outside, thus sealing up the pores. The general plan, however, is to put
+meat into a warm oven an hour or two earlier than it should go, with a
+quantity of water and flour underneath it. The result in hot weather I
+have known to be very disagreeable, the tepid oven having, in fact,
+given a stale taste to the joint before it began to cook, and it at all
+times results in flavorless, tough meat. There is no time saved, either,
+in putting the meat in while the oven is yet cool. Heat up the oven till
+it is quite brisk, then put the meat in a pan, in which, if it is fat,
+you require _no water_; if very lean, you may put half a teacup, just
+enough to prevent the pan burning; you may rub a little flour over the
+joint or not, as you please, but never more than the surface moisture
+absorbs; have no clinging particles of flour upon the joint, neither put
+salt nor pepper upon the meat before it goes into the oven; salt draws
+out the gravy, which it is your object to keep in, and the flavor of
+pepper is entirely changed by the parching it undergoes when on the
+surface of the meat, the odor of scorched pepper, while cooking, being
+very offensive to refined nostrils. This does not occur when pepper is
+not on the surface; for the _inside_ of birds, in stuffing, and in meat
+pies it is indispensable, and the flavor undergoes no change. This
+remark on pepper applies also to broiling and frying. Always pepper
+_after_ the article is cooked, and both for appearance and delicacy of
+flavor white pepper should always be used in preference to black.
+
+Meat, while in the oven, should be carefully turned about so that it may
+brown equally, and when it has been in half the time you intend to give
+it, or when the upper surface is well browned, turn it over. When it
+comes out of the oven put it on a hot dish, then carefully pour off the
+fat by holding the corner of the meat pan over your dripping-pan, and
+very gently allowing the fat to run off; do not shake it; when you see
+the thick brown sediment beginning to run too, check it; if there is
+still much fat on the surface, take it off with a spoon; then pour into
+the pan a little boiling water and salt, in quantity according to the
+quantity of sediment or glaze in the pan, and with a spoon rub off every
+speck of the dried gravy on the bottom and sides of the pan. Add no
+flour, the gravy must be thick enough with its own richness. If you have
+added too much water, so that it looks poor, you may always boil it down
+by setting the pan on the stove for a few minutes; but it is better to
+put very little water at first, and add as the richness of the gravy
+allows. Now you have a rich brown gravy, instead of the thick
+whitey-brown broth so often served with roast meat. Every drop of this
+gravy and that from the dish should be carefully saved if left over.
+
+Save all dripping, except from mutton or meat with which onions are
+cooked, for purposes which I shall indicate in another place.
+
+Veal and pork require to be very thoroughly cooked. For them, therefore,
+the oven must not be too hot, neither must it be lukewarm, a good even
+heat is best; if likely to get too brown before it is thoroughly cooked,
+open the oven door.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER IX.
+
+BOILING.
+
+
+BOILING is one of the things about which cooks are most careless;
+theoretically they almost always know meat should be slowly boiled, but
+their idea of "slow" is ruled by the fire; they never attempt to rule
+that. There is a good rule given by Gouffe as to what slow boiling
+actually is: the surface of the pot should only show signs of ebullition
+at one side, just an occasional bubble. _Simmering_ is a still slower
+process, and in this the pot should have only a sizzling round one part
+of the edge. All fresh meat should boil _slowly_; ham or corn beef
+should barely simmer. Yet they must not go off the boil at all, which
+would spoil fresh meat entirely; steeping in water gives a flat, insipid
+taste.
+
+All vegetables except potatoes, asparagus, peas, and cauliflower should
+boil as fast as possible; these four only moderately. Most vegetables
+are boiled far too long. Cabbage is as delicate as cauliflower in the
+summer and fall if boiled in plenty of water, to which a salt spoonful
+of soda has been added, _as fast as possible_ for twenty minutes or half
+an hour, then drained and dressed. In winter it should be cut in six or
+eight pieces, boiled _fast_, in plenty of water, for half an hour, _no
+longer_. Always give it plenty of room, let the water boil rapidly when
+you put it in the pot, which set on the hottest part of the fire to
+come to that point again, and you will have no more strong, rank, yellow
+stuff on your table, no bad odor in your house. Peas require no more
+than twenty minutes' boiling if young; asparagus the same; the latter
+should always be boiled in a saucepan deep enough to let it stand up in
+the water when tied up in bunches, for this saves the heads. Potatoes
+should be poured off the minute they are done, and allowed to stand at
+the back of the stove with a clean cloth folded over them. They are the
+only vegetable that should be put into _cold_ water. When new, boiling
+water is proper. When quite ripe they are more floury if put in cold
+water.
+
+SOUPS.--As I have before said, I do not pretend to give many recipes,
+only to tell you how to succeed with the recipes given in other books. I
+shall, therefore, only give one recipe which I know is a novelty and one
+for the foundation of all soups. In one sense I have done the latter
+already. The stock for glaze is an excellent soup before it is reduced;
+but I will also give Jules Gouffe's method of making _pot-au-feu_, it
+being a most beautifully clear soup.
+
+It often happens, however, that you have sufficient stock from bones,
+trimmings of meat, and odds and ends of gravies, which may always be
+turned to account; but the stock from such a source, although excellent,
+will not always be clear; therefore, you must proceed with it in the
+following manner, unless you wish to use it for thick soup:
+
+Make your stock boiling hot and skim well; then have ready the whites of
+three eggs (I am supposing you have three quarts of stock--one egg to a
+quart), to which add half a pint of cold water; whisk well together;
+then add half a pint of the boiling stock gradually, still whisking the
+eggs; then stir the boiling stock rapidly, pouring in the whites of
+eggs, etc.; as you do it, stir quickly till nearly boiling again, then
+take it from the fire, let it remain till the whites of eggs separate;
+then strain through a clean, fine cloth into a basin. This rule once
+learned will clear every kind of soup or jelly.
+
+There are many people who are good cooks, yet fail in clear soup, which
+is with them semi-opaque, while it should be like sherry. The cause of
+this opacity is generally quick boiling while the meat is in. This gives
+it a milky appearance. After the stock is once made and clear, quick
+boiling will do no harm, but of course wastes the soup, unless resorted
+to for the purpose of making it stronger. A word here about coloring
+soup: Most persons resort to burnt sugar, and, very carefully used, it
+is not at all a bad makeshift. But how often have we a rich-looking soup
+put before us, the vermicelli appearing to repose under a lake of strong
+russet _bouillon_, but which, on tasting, we find suggestive of nothing
+but burnt sugar and salt, every bit of flavor destroyed by the acrid
+coloring. Sometimes stock made by the recipe for _pot-au-feu_ (to
+follow) requires no color; this depends on the beef; but usually all
+soup is more appetizing in appearance for a little browning, and for
+this purpose I always use burnt onions in preference to anything else.
+If you have none in store when the soup is put on, put a small onion in
+the oven (or on the back of the stove; should you be baking anything the
+odor would taint); turn it often till it gets quite black, but not
+_charred_. Then put it to the soup; it adds a fine flavor as well as
+color, and you need not fear overdoing it.
+
+Soup that is to be reduced must be very lightly salted; for this reason
+salt is left out altogether for glaze, as the reduction causes the
+water only to evaporate, the salt remains.
+
+GOUFFE'S POT-AU-FEU.--Four pounds of lean beef, six quarts of water, six
+ounces of carrot, six of turnip, six of onion, half an ounce of celery,
+one clove, salt.
+
+Put the meat on in cold water, and just before it comes to the boil skim
+it, and throw in a wineglass of cold water, skim again, and, when it is
+"on the boil," again throw in another wineglass of cold water; do this
+two or three times. The object of adding the cold water is to keep it
+just off the boil until all the scum has risen, as the boiling point is
+when it comes to the surface, yet once having boiled, the scum is broken
+up, and the soup is never so clear.
+
+The meat must simmer slowly, _not boil_, for three hours before the
+vegetables are added, then for a couple of hours more.
+
+It is necessary to be very exact in the proportions of vegetables; but,
+of course, after having weighed them for soups once or twice, you will
+get to know about the size of a carrot, turnip, etc., that will weigh
+six ounces. The exact weight is given until the eye is accustomed to it.
+
+This soup strained, and boiled down to one half, becomes _consomme_.
+
+CELERY CREAM is a most delicious and little-known white soup, and all
+lovers of good things will thank me for introducing it.
+
+Have some nice veal stock, or the water in which chickens have been
+boiled, reduced till it is rich enough, will do, or some very rich
+mutton broth, but either of the former are preferable; then put on a
+half cup of rice in a pint of rich milk, and grate into it the white
+part and root of two heads of celery. Let the rice milk cook very
+slowly at the back of the stove, adding more milk before it gets at all
+stiff; when tender enough to mash through a coarse sieve or fine
+colander add it to the stock, which must have been strained and be quite
+free from sediment, season with salt and a little _white_ pepper or
+cayenne, boil all together gently a few minutes. It should look like
+rich cream, and be strongly flavored with celery. Of course the quantity
+of rice, milk, and celery must depend on the quantity of stock you have.
+I have given the proportion for one quart, which, with the milk, etc.,
+added, would make about three pints of soup.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER X.
+
+SAUCES.
+
+
+TALLEYRAND said England was a country with twenty-four religions and
+only one sauce. He might have said two sauces, and he would have been
+literally right as regards both England and America. Everything is
+served with brown sauce or white sauce. And how often the white sauce is
+like bookbinder's paste, the brown, a bitter, tasteless brown mess!
+Strictly speaking, perhaps, the French have but two sauces either,
+_espagnole_, or brown sauce, and white sauce, which they call the mother
+sauces; but what changes they ring on these mother sauces! The espagnole
+once made, with no two meats is it served alike in flavor, and in this
+matter of flavor the artist appears. In making brown sauce for any
+purpose, bethink yourself of anything there may be in your store-room
+with which to vary its flavor, taking care that it shall agree with the
+meat for which it is intended. The ordinary cook flies at once to
+Worcestershire or Harvey sauce, which are excellent at times, but
+"_toujours perdrix_" is not always welcome. A pinch of mushroom powder,
+or a few chopped oysters, are excellent with beef or veal; so will be a
+spoonful of Montpellier butter stirred in, or curry, not enough to
+yellow the sauce, but enough to give a dash of piquancy. A pickled
+walnut chopped, or a gherkin or two, go admirably with mutton or pork
+chops. In short, this is just where imagination and brains will tell in
+cooking, and little essays of invention may be tried with profit. But
+beware of trying too much; make yourself perfect in one thing before
+venturing on another.
+
+ESPAGNOLE, or brown sauce, is simply a rich stock well flavored with
+vegetables and herbs, and thickened with a piece of _roux_ or with brown
+flour.
+
+WHITE SAUCE is one of those things we rarely find perfectly made; bad,
+it is the _ne plus ultra_ of badness; good, it is delicious. Those who
+have tried to have it good, and failed, I beg to try the following
+method of making it: Take an ounce and a half of butter and a scant
+tablespoonful of flour, mix both with a spoon into a paste; when smooth
+add half a pint of warm milk, a _small_ teaspoonful of salt, and the
+sixth part of one of _white_ pepper; set it on the fire till it boils,
+and is thick enough to mask the back of the spoon transparently; then
+add a squeeze of lemon juice, and another ounce and a half of fresh
+butter; stir this till quite blended. This sauce is the foundation for
+many others, and, for some purposes, the beaten yolk of an egg is
+introduced when just off the boil. Capers may be added to it, or chopped
+mushrooms, or chopped celery, or oysters, according to the use for which
+it is intended. The object of adding the second butter is because
+boiling takes away the flavor of butter; by stirring half of it in,
+without boiling, you retain it.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XI.
+
+WARMING OVER.
+
+
+HASH is a peculiarly American institution. In no other country is every
+remnant of cold meat turned into that one unvarying dish. What do I say?
+_remnants_ of cold meat! rather _joints_ of cold meat, a roast of beef
+of which the tenderloin had sufficed for the first day's dinner, the leg
+of mutton from which a few slices only have been taken, the fillet of
+veal, available for so many delicate dishes, all are ruthlessly turned
+into the all-pervading hash. The curious thing is that people are not
+fond of it. Men exclaim against it, and its name stinks in the nostrils
+of those unhappy ones whose home is the boarding-house.
+
+Yet hash in itself is not a bad dish; when I say it is a peculiarly
+_American_ institution, I mean, that when English people speak of hash,
+they mean something quite different--meat warmed in slices. Our hash, in
+its best form--that is, made with nice gravy, garnished with sippets of
+toast and pickles, surrounded with mashed potatoes or rice--is dignified
+abroad by the name of _mince_, and makes its appearance as an elegant
+little _entree_. Nor would it be anathematized in the way it is with us,
+if it were only occasionally introduced. It is the familiarity that has
+led to contempt. "But what shall I do?" asks the young wife
+distressfully; "John likes joints, and he and I and Bridget can't
+possibly eat a roast at a meal."
+
+Very true; and it is to just such perplexed young housekeepers that I
+hope this chapter will be especially useful--that is to say, small
+families with moderate means and a taste for good things. In this, as in
+many other ways, large families are easier to cater for; they can
+consume the better part of a roast at a meal, and the remains it is no
+great harm to turn into hash, although even they might, with little
+trouble and expense, have agreeable variety introduced into their bill
+of fare.
+
+In England and America there is great prejudice against warmed-over
+food, but on the continent one eats it half the time in some of the most
+delicious-made dishes without suspecting it. Herein lies the secret.
+With us and our transatlantic cousins the warming over is so artlessly
+done, that the _hard_ fact too often stares at us from out the watery
+expanse in which it reposes.
+
+One great reason of the failure to make warmed-over meat satisfactory is
+the lack of gravy. On the goodness of this (as well as its presence)
+depends the success of your _rechauffe_.
+
+The glaze, for which I have given the recipe, renders you at all times
+independent in this respect, but at the same time it should not alone be
+depended on. Every drop of what remains in the dish from the roast
+should be saved, and great care be taken of all scraps, bones, and
+gristle, which should be carefully boiled down to save the necessity of
+flying to the glaze for every purpose. I will here give several recipes,
+which I think may be new to many readers.
+
+SALMI OF COLD MEAT is exceedingly good. Melt butter in a saucepan, if
+for quite a small dish two ounces will be sufficient; when melted, stir
+in a little flour to thicken; let it brown, but not burn, or, if you are
+preparing the dish in haste, put in some brown flour; then add a glass
+of white or red wine and a cup of broth, or a cup of water and a slice
+of glaze, a sprig or two of thyme, parsley, a small onion, chopped, and
+one bay leaf, pepper, and salt. Simmer all thoroughly (all savory dishes
+to which wine is added should simmer long enough for the distinct
+"winey" flavor to disappear, only the strength and richness remaining).
+Strain this when simmered half an hour and lay in the cold meat. Squeeze
+in a little lemon juice and draw the stew-pan to the back of the stove,
+but where it will cook no longer, or the meat will harden. Serve on
+toast, and pour the sauce over. A glass of brandy added to this dish
+when the meat goes in is a great addition, if an extra fine salmi is
+desired. By not allowing the flour and butter to brown and using white
+wine, this is a very fine sauce in which to warm cold chicken, veal, or
+any _white_ meat.
+
+B[OE]UF A LA JARDINIERE.--Put in a fireproof dish if you have it, or a
+thick saucepan, a pint of beef broth, a small bunch each of parsley,
+chervil, tarragon--very little of this--shallot or onion, capers,
+pickled gherkins, of each or any a teaspoonful chopped fine; roll a
+large tablespoonful of butter with a dessert-spoonful of brown flour,
+stir it in; then take slices of underdone beef, with a blunt knife hack
+each slice all over in fine dice, but not to separate or cut up the
+slices; then pepper and salt each one and lay it in with the herbs,
+sprinkle a layer of herbs over the beef and cover closely; then stand
+the dish in the oven to slowly cook for an hour, or, if you use a
+stew-pan, set in a pan of boiling water on the stove for an hour where
+the water will just boil. Serve on a dish surrounded with young carrots
+and turnips if in season, or old ones cut.
+
+BEEF AU GRATIN.--Cut a little fat bacon or pork very thin, sprinkle on
+it chopped parsley, onion, and mushrooms (mushroom powder will do) and
+bread-crumbs; then put in layers of beef, cut thick, and well and
+closely hacked, then another layer of bacon or pork cut thin as a wafer,
+and of seasoning, crumbs last; pour over enough broth or gravy to
+moisten well, in which a little brandy or wine may be added if an
+especially good dish is desired; bake slowly an hour.
+
+PSEUDO BEEFSTEAK.--Cut cold boiled or roast beef in thick slices, broil
+slowly, lay in a _hot_ dish in which you have a large spoonful of
+Montpellier butter melted, sprinkle a little mushroom powder if you
+desire, and garnish with fried potato.
+
+CUTLETS A LA JARDINIERE.--Trim some thick cutlets from a cold leg of
+mutton, or chops from the loin, dip them in frying batter, _a la
+Careme_, fry crisp and quickly, and serve wreathed round green peas, or
+a ragout made as follows: Take young carrots, turnips, green peas, white
+beans; stew gently in a little water to which the bones of the meat and
+trimmings have been added (and which must be carefully removed not to
+disfigure the vegetables). Encircle this ragout with the fried cutlets,
+and crown with a cauliflower.
+
+CROMESQUIS OF LAMB is a Polish recipe. Cut some underdone lamb--mutton
+will of course do--quite small; also some mushrooms, cut small, or the
+powder. Put in a saucepan a piece of glaze the size of a pigeon's egg,
+with a _little_ water or broth, warm it and thicken with yolks of two
+eggs, just as you would make boiled custard, that is, without letting
+it come to the boil, or it will curdle; then add the mushrooms and meat,
+let all get cold, and divide it into small pieces, roll in bread-crumbs
+sifted, then in egg, then in crumbs again, and fry in very hot fat; or
+you may, _after_ rolling in bread-crumbs, lay each piece in a spoon and
+dip it into frying batter; let the extra batter run off, and drop the
+cromesquis into the hot fat. These will be good made of beef and rolled
+up in a bard of fat pork cut thin, and fried; serve with sauce piquant
+made thus: Take some chopped parsley, onion, and pickled cucumbers,
+simmer till tender, and thicken with an equal quantity of butter and
+flour. Of course your own brightness will tell you that, if you are in
+haste, a spoonful of Montpellier butter, the same of flour, melted in a
+little water, to which you add a teaspoonful of vinegar, will make an
+excellent sauce piquant, and this same is excellent for anything fried,
+as breaded chops, croquettes, etc. I may here say, that where two or
+three herbs are mentioned as necessary, for instance, parsley, tarragon,
+and chervil, if you have no tarragon you must leave it out, or chervil
+the same. It is only a matter of flavoring, at the same time _flavor_ is
+a great deal, and these French herbs give that indescribable _cachet_ to
+a dish which is one of the secrets of French cooking. Therefore if you
+are a wise matron you will have a supply on hand, even if only bought
+dry from the druggist.
+
+MIROTON OF BEEF.--Peel and cut into thin slices two large onions, put
+them in a stew-pan with two ounces of butter, place it over a slow fire;
+stir the onions round till they are rather brown, but not in the least
+burnt; add a teaspoonful of brown flour, mix smoothly, then moisten with
+half a pint of broth, or water with a little piece of glaze, three
+salt-spoonfuls of salt unless your broth was salted, then half the
+quantity or less, two of sugar, and one of pepper. Put in the cold beef,
+cut in thin slices as lean as possible, let it remain five minutes at
+the back of the stove; then serve on a very hot dish garnished with
+fried potatoes, or sippets of toast. To vary the flavor, sometimes put a
+spoonful of tarragon or plain vinegar, or a teaspoonful of mushroom
+powder, or a pinch of curry, unless objected to, or a few sweet herbs.
+In fact, as you may see, variety is as easy to produce as it is rare to
+meet with in average cooking, and depends more on intelligence and
+thoughtfulness than on anything else.
+
+The simplest of all ways of warming a joint that is not far cut, is to
+wrap it in thickly buttered paper, and put it in the oven again,
+contriving, if possible, to cover it closely, let it remain long enough
+to get _hot_ through, not to cook. By keeping it closely covered it will
+get hot through in less time, and the steam will prevent it getting hard
+and dry; make some gravy hot and serve with the meat. If your gravy is
+good and plentiful, your meat will be as nice as the first day; without
+gravy it would be an unsatisfactory dish. If you cannot manage to cover
+the joint in the oven, you may put it in a pot over the fire _without_
+water, but with a dessert spoonful of vinegar to create steam; let it
+get hot through, and serve as before.
+
+For the third day the meat may be warmed up in any of the ways I am
+going to mention, repeating once more, that you must have gravy of some
+kind, or else carefully make some, with cracked bones, gristle, etc.,
+stewed _long_, and nicely flavored with any kind of sauce.
+
+RAGOUT.--A very nice ragout may be made from cold meat thus: Slice the
+meat, put it in a stew-pan in which an onion, or several if you like
+them, has been sliced; squeeze half a lemon into it, or a
+dessert-spoonful of vinegar, cover closely without water, and when it
+begins to cook, set the stew-pan at the back of the stove for three
+quarters of an hour, shaking it occasionally. The onions should now be
+brown; take out the meat, dredge in a little flour, stir it round, and
+add a cup of gravy, pepper, salt, and a small quantity of any sauce or
+flavoring you prefer; stew gently a minute or two, then put the meat
+back to get hot, and serve; garnish with sippets of toast, or pickles.
+
+A NICE LITTLE BREAKFAST DISH IS made thus: Cut two long slices of cold
+meat and three of bread, buttered thickly, about the same shape and
+size; season the meat with pepper, salt, and a little finely chopped
+parsley; or, if it is veal, a little chopped ham; then lay one slice of
+bread between two of meat, and have the other two slices outside; fasten
+together with short wooden skewers. If you have a quick oven, put it in;
+and take care to baste with butter thoroughly, that the bread may be all
+over crisp and brown. If you can't depend on your oven, fry it in very
+hot fat as you would crullers; garnish with sprigs of parsley, and serve
+very hot.
+
+TO WARM A GOOD-SIZED PIECE OF BEEF.--Trim it as much like a thick fillet
+as you can; cut it horizontally half way through, then scoop out as much
+as you can of the meat from the inside of each piece. Chop the meat fine
+that you have thus scooped out, season with a little finely chopped
+parsley and thyme, a shred of onion, if you like it; or if you have
+celery boil a little of the coarser part till tender, chop it and add
+as much bread finely crumbled as you have meat, and a good piece of
+butter; add pepper and salt, and make all into a paste with an egg,
+mixed with an equal quantity of gravy or milk; fill up the hollow in the
+meat and tie, or still better, sew it together. You may either put this
+in a pot with a slice of pork or bacon, and a cup of gravy; or you may
+brush it over with beaten egg, cover it with crumbs, and pour over these
+a cup of butter, melted, so that it moistens every part; and bake it,
+taking care to baste well while baking; serve with nice gravy.
+
+BEEF OLIVES are no novelty to the ear, but it is a novel thing to find
+them satisfactory to the palate.
+
+Take some stale bread-crumbs, an equal quantity of beef finely chopped,
+some parsley, and thyme; a little scraped ham if you have it, a few
+chives, or a slice of onion, all chopped small as possible; put some
+butter in a pan, and let this force-meat just simmer, _not fry_, in it
+for ten minutes. While this is cooking, cut some underdone oblong slices
+of beef about half an inch thick, hack it with a sharp knife on _both
+sides_; then mix the cooked force-meat with the yolk of an egg and a
+tablespoonful of gravy; put a spoonful of this paste in the center of
+each slice of meat and tie it up carefully in the shape of an egg. Then
+if you have some nice gravy, thicken it with a piece of butter rolled in
+flour, roll each olive slightly in flour and lay it in the gravy and let
+it very gently _simmer_ for half an hour. A few chopped oysters added to
+the gravy will be a great addition. Or you may lay each olive on a thin
+slice of fat pork, roll it up, tie it, dip it in flour, and bake in a
+quick oven until beautifully brown.
+
+TO WARM OVER COLD MUTTON.--An excellent and simple way is to cut it, if
+loin, into chops, or leg, into thick collops, and dip each into egg
+well beaten with a tablespoonful of milk, then in _fine_ bread-crumbs
+and fry in plenty of _very hot_ fat.
+
+If your crumbs are not very fine and even, the larger crumbs will fall
+off, and the appearance be spoilt. These chops will be almost as nice,
+if quickly fried, as fresh cooked ones. They will also be excellent if,
+instead of being breaded, they are dipped into thick batter (see recipe)
+and fried brown in the same way. This method answers for any kind of
+meat, chicken thus warmed over being especially good. The batter, or egg
+and bread-crumbs form a sort of crust which keeps it tender and juicy.
+Any attempt to fry cold meat without either results in a hard, stringy,
+uneatable dish.
+
+WHITE MEAT OF ANY KIND is excellent warmed over in a little milk, in
+which you have cut a large onion, and, if you like it, a slice of salt
+pork or ham, and a little sliced cucumber, if it is summer; thicken with
+the yolks of one or two eggs, added after the whole has simmered twenty
+minutes; take care the egg thickens in the gravy, but does not _boil_,
+or it will curdle. If it is in winter, chop a teaspoonful of pickled
+cucumber or capers and add just on going to table. In summer when you
+have the sliced cucumber, squeeze half a lemon into the gravy, the last
+thing, to give the requisite dash of acid. You may vary the above by
+adding sometimes a few chopped oysters; at others, mushrooms, or celery.
+The last must be put in with the onion and before the meat.
+
+DEVILED MEAT.--Our better halves are usually fond of this, especially
+for breakfast or lunch.
+
+For this dish take a pair of turkey or chicken drumsticks or some nice
+thick wedges of underdone beef or mutton, score them deeply with a
+knife and rub them over with a sauce made thus: A teaspoonful of
+vinegar, the same of Harvey or Worcestershire sauce, the same of
+mustard, a _little_ cayenne, and a tablespoonful of salad oil, or butter
+melted; mix all till like cream, and take care your meat is thoroughly
+moistened all over with the mixture, then rub your gridiron with butter.
+See that the fire is clear, and while the gridiron is getting hot, chop
+a teaspoonful of parsley very fine, mix it up with a piece of butter the
+size of a walnut, and lay this in a dish which you will put to get hot.
+Then put the meat to be grilled on the fire and turn often, so that it
+will not burn; when hot through and brown, lay it in the hot dish, lay
+another hot dish over it, and serve as quickly as possible with hot
+plates.
+
+Or the grill may be served with what Soyer calls his _Mephistophelian
+sauce_, which he especially designed for serving with deviled meats.
+Chop six shallots or small onions, wash and press them in the corner of
+a clean cloth, put them in a stew-pan with half a wineglass of chili
+vinegar (pepper sauce), a chopped clove, a tiny bit of garlic, two bay
+leaves, an ounce of glaze; boil all together ten minutes; then add four
+tablespoonfuls of tomato sauce, a _little_ sugar, and ten of broth
+thickened with roux (or water will do if you have no broth).
+
+It will be remarked that in many French recipes a _little_ sugar is
+ordered. This is not meant to sweeten, or even be perceptible; but it
+enriches, softens, tones, as it were, the other ingredients as salt
+does.
+
+SOYER'S FRITADELLA (twenty recipes in one).--Put half a pound of
+bread-crumb to soak in a pint of cold water; take the same quantity of
+any kind of roast, or boiled meat, with a little fat, chop it fine,
+press the bread in a clean cloth to extract the water; put in a
+stew-pan two ounces of butter, a tablespoonful of chopped onions; fry
+two minutes and stir, then add the bread, stir and fry till rather dry,
+then the meat; season with a teaspoonful of salt, half of pepper, and a
+little grated nutmeg, and lemon peel; stir continually till very hot,
+then add two eggs, one at a time; mix well and pour on a dish to get
+cold. Then take a piece, shape it like a small egg, flatten it a little,
+egg and bread-crumb it all over, taking care to keep in good shape. Do
+all the same way, then put into a frying-pan a quarter of a pound of
+lard or dripping, let it get hot, and put in the pieces, and saute (or
+as we call it "_fry_") them a fine yellow brown. Serve very hot with a
+border of mashed potatoes, or any garniture you fancy. Sauce piquant, or
+not, as you please.
+
+The above can be made with any kind of meat, poultry, game, fish, or
+even vegetables; hard eggs, or potatoes, may be introduced in small
+quantities, and they may be fried instead of sauteed (frying in the
+French and strict sense, meaning as I need hardly say, entire immersion
+in very hot fat). To _fry_ them you require at least two pounds of fat
+in your pan.
+
+Oysters or lobsters prepared as above are excellent.
+
+Boileau says, "_Un diner rechauffe ne valut jamais rien_." But I think a
+good French cook of the present day would make him alter his opinion.
+
+Indeed Savarin quotes a friend of his own, a notable gourmand, who
+considered spinach cooked on Monday only reached perfection the
+following Saturday, having each day of the week been warmed up with
+butter, and each day gaining succulence and a more marrowy consistency.
+
+The only trouble I find in relation to this part of my present task is
+the difficulty of knowing when to leave off. There are so many ways of
+warming meats to advantage--and in every one way there is the suggestion
+for another--that I suffer from an _embarras de richesse_, and have had
+difficulty in selecting. Dozens come to my mind, blanquettes, patties,
+curries, as I write; but as this is not, I have said, to be a recipe
+book, I forbear. Of one thing I am quite sure: when women once know how
+to make nice dishes of cold meat they will live well where they now live
+badly, and for less money; and "hash" will be relegated to its proper
+place as an occasional and acceptable dish.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XII.
+
+ON FRIANDISES.
+
+
+  "Le role du gourmand finit avec l'entremets, et celui du friand
+   commence au dessert."--_Grimod de la Reyniere._
+
+
+AMERICAN ladies, as a rule, excel in cake making and preserving, and I
+feel that on that head I have very little to teach; indeed, were they as
+accomplished in all branches of cooking as in making dainty sweet dishes
+this book would be uncalled for.
+
+Yet, notwithstanding their undoubted taste and ability in making
+"_friandises_," it seems to me a few recipes borrowed from what the
+French call _la grande cuisine_, and possible of execution at home, will
+be welcome to those who wish to vary the eternal ice cream and charlotte
+russe, with other sweets more elegant and likely to be equally popular.
+
+ICED SOUFFLE A LA BYRON.--One pint of sugar syrup of 32 degrees (get
+this at a druggist's if you do not understand sugar boiling), three
+gills of strained raspberry juice, one lemon, one gill of maraschino,
+fifteen yolks of eggs, two ounces of chocolate drops, half a pint of
+very thick cream whipped.
+
+Method of making this and the next recipe is as follows: Mix the syrup
+and yolks of eggs, strain into a warm bowl, add the raspberry and lemon
+juice and maraschino, whisk till it creams well, then take the bowl out
+of the hot water and whisk ten minutes longer; add the chocolate drops
+and whipped cream; lightly fill a case or mold, and set in a freezer for
+two hours, then cover the surface with lady-fingers (or sponge cake)
+dried in the oven a pale brown, and rolled. Serve at once.
+
+Another frozen _souffle_ is as follows:
+
+One pint of syrup, 32 degrees, half a pint of noyeau, half a pint of
+cherry juice, two ounces of bruised macaroons, half a pint of thick
+cream whipped, made in the same way as the last. I may here say that the
+fruit juices can be procured now at all good druggists, so that these
+_souffles_ are very attainable in winter, and as noyeau and maraschino
+do not form part of the stores in a family of small means, I will give
+in this chapter recipes for the making of very fair imitations of the
+genuine _liqueurs_.
+
+BISCUIT GLACE A LA CHARLES DICKENS.--One pint of syrup (32 deg.), fifteen
+yolks of eggs, three gills of peach pulp, colored pink with cochineal,
+one gill of noyeau, half a pint of thick cream, and a little chocolate
+water-ice, made with half a pint of syrup and four ounces of the best
+chocolate smoothly mixed and frozen ready.
+
+Mix syrup, yolks, peach pulps, noyeau, and a few drops of vanilla, whip
+high; mix with the whipped cream, and set in ice for one hour and a half
+in brick-shaped molds, then turn out (if very firm), and cut in slices
+an inch thick, and coat them all over, or on top and sides, with the
+chocolate ice, smoothing with a knife dipped in cold water; serve in
+paper cases.
+
+BISCUIT GLACE A LA THACKERAY.--One pint of syrup (32 deg.), one pint of
+strawberry pulp, fifteen yolks of eggs, one ounce of vanilla sugar
+(flavor a little sugar with vanilla), half a pint of thick cream.
+
+Mix syrup, yolks, strawberry, and vanilla sugar, whipping as before,
+then add the whipped cream lightly; fill paper cases, either round or
+square; surround each with a band of stiff paper, to reach half an inch
+above the edge of the case, the bands to be pinned together to secure
+them; place them in a freezer. When about to send to table, remove the
+bands of paper, and cover with macaroons bruised fine and browned in the
+oven. The bands of paper are meant to give the biscuit the appearance of
+having risen while supposed to bake.
+
+These delicious ices were invented by Francatelli, the Queen of
+England's chief cook, to do homage to the different great men whose
+names they bear, on the occasion of preparing dinners given in their
+honor. They read as if somewhat intricate, but any lady who has ever had
+ice cream made at home, and had the patience to make charlotte russe,
+need not shrink appalled before these novelties, or fear for a
+successful result.
+
+Baba is a cake many call for at a confectioner's, yet few, if any one,
+attempts to make it at home. That the recipes generally offered do not
+lead to success may be one reason, and I offer the following, quite
+sure, if accurately followed, such a baba will result as never was eaten
+outside of Paris.
+
+BABA.--One pound of flour; take one quarter of it, and make a sponge
+with half an ounce of compressed yeast and a little warm water, set it
+to rise, make a hole in the rest of the flour, add to it ten ounces of
+butter, three eggs, and a dessert-spoonful of sugar, a little salt,
+unless your butter salts it enough, which is generally the case. Beat
+all together well, then add five more eggs, one at a time, that is to
+say, add one egg and beat well, then another and beat again, and so on
+until the five are used. When the paste leaves the bowl it is beaten
+enough, but not before; then add the sponge to it, and a large half
+ounce of citron chopped, the same of currants, and an ounce and a half
+of sultana raisins, seedless. Let it rise to twice its size, then bake
+it in an oven of dark yellow paper heat; the small round babas are an
+innovation of the pastry-cook to enable him to sell them uncut. But the
+baba proper should be baked in a large, deep, upright tin, such as a
+large charlotte russe mold, when they keep for several days fresh, and
+if they get stale, make delicious fritters, soaked in sherry and dipped
+in frying batter.
+
+In some cases, however, it may be preferred to make them as usually seen
+at French pastry cooks; for this purpose you require a dozen small-sized
+_round_ charlotte russe molds, which fill half full only, as they rise
+very much; bake these in a hotter oven, light brown paper heat; try with
+a twig as you would any other cake, if it comes out dry it is done; then
+prepare a syrup as follows: Boil half pound of sugar in a pint of water,
+add to this the third of a pint of rum, and some apricot pulp--peach
+will of course do--and boil all together a few minutes; pour this half
+an inch deep in a dish, and stand the cake or cakes in it; it should
+drink up all the syrup, you may also sprinkle some over it. If any syrup
+remains, use it to warm over your cake when stale, instead of the
+sherry.
+
+Baba was introduced into France by Stanislas Leczinski, king of Poland,
+and the father-in-law of Louis XIV.; and his Polish royal descendants
+still use with it, says Careme, a syrup made of Malaga wine and one
+sixth part of _eau de tanaisie_.
+
+But, although our forefathers seemed to have relished tansy very much,
+to judge from old recipe books, I doubt if such flavoring would be
+appreciated in our time.
+
+SAVARINS--commonly called wine cake by New York pastry cooks--are made
+as follows:
+
+One pound of flour, of which take one quarter to make a sponge, using
+half an ounce of German compressed yeast, and a little warm milk; when
+it has risen to twice its bulk, add one gill of hot milk, two eggs, and
+the rest of the flour; mix well; then add one more egg and beat,
+another, still beating; then add three quarters of a pound of fresh
+butter, a quarter of an ounce of salt, half an ounce of sugar, and half
+a gill of hot milk, beat well; then add eggs, one at a time, beating
+continually, until you have used five more. Cut in small dice three
+ounces of candied orange peel; butter a tin, which should be deep and
+straight-sided--a tin pudding boiler is not a bad thing--and sprinkle
+with chopped almonds. Fill the mold half full, and when risen to twice
+its bulk, bake in a moderate oven, dark yellow paper heat. When served,
+this cake should stand in a dish of syrup, flavored with rum, as for
+baba, or with sherry wine.
+
+BOUCHEES DES DAMES, a very ornamental and delicious little French cake,
+is sufficiently novel to deserve a place here, I think. Make any nice
+drop cake batter (either sponge, or sponge with a little butter in it I
+prefer); drop one on buttered paper and bake; if it runs, beat in a
+_little_ more flour and sugar, but not much, or your cakes will be
+brittle; they should be the size, when done, of a fifty-cent piece, and
+I find half a teaspoonful of batter dropped generally makes them about
+right. Have a tin cutter or tin box lid, if you have no cutter so small,
+about the size, and with it trim each cake when baked; then take half
+the number and spread some with a very thin layer of red currant jelly,
+others with peach or raspberry; then on each so spread put a cake that
+is unspread, thus making a tiny sandwich or jelly cake. If you have
+different sorts of jelly, put each separate, as you must adapt the
+flavor of your icing to the jelly. For red currant, ice with chocolate
+icing. Recipes for icing are so general that I refer you to your cookery
+book. Those with peach may have white icing, flavored with almond, or
+with rum, beating in a little more sugar if the flavoring dilutes your
+icing too much. Almond flavoring goes well with raspberry. Cakes with
+raspberry jelly or jam should be iced pink, coloring the icing with
+prepared cochineal or cranberry juice. Thus you have your cakes brown,
+pink, and white, which look very pretty mixed.
+
+The process of icing is difficult to do after they are put together, but
+they are much handsomer this way, and keep longer. You require, to
+accomplish it, a good quantity of each kind of icing, and a number of
+little wooden skewers; stick one into each cake and dip it in the icing,
+let it run off, then stand the other end of the skewer in a box of sand
+or granulated sugar. The easiest way is to ice each half cake before
+putting in the jelly; when the icing is hard spread with jelly, and put
+together.
+
+CURACOA may be successfully imitated by pouring over eight ounces of the
+_thinly_ pared rind of very ripe oranges a pint of boiling water, cover,
+and let it cool; then add two quarts of brandy, or strong French spirit,
+cover closely, and let it stand fourteen days, shaking it every day.
+Make a clarified syrup of two pounds of sugar into one pint of water,
+well boiled; strain the brandy into it, leaving it covered close
+another day. Rub up in a mortar one drachm of potash, with a teaspoonful
+of the liqueurs; when well blended, put this into the liqueur, and in
+the same way pound and add a drachm of alum, shake well, and in an hour
+or two filter through thin muslin. Ready for use in a week or two.
+
+MARASCHINO.--Bruise slightly a dozen cherry kernels, put them in a deep
+jar with the outer rind of three oranges and two lemons, cover with two
+quarts of gin, then add syrup and leave it a fortnight, as for curacoa.
+Stir syrup and spirit together, leave it another day, run it through a
+jelly bag, and bottle. Ready to use in ten days.
+
+NOYEAU.--Blanch and pound two pounds of bitter almonds, or four of peach
+kernels; put to them a gallon of spirit or brandy, two pounds of white
+sugar candy--or sugar will do--a grated nutmeg, and a pod of vanilla;
+leave it three weeks covered close, then filter and bottle; but do not
+use it for three months. To be used with caution.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIII.
+
+FRENCH CANDY AT HOME.
+
+
+THIS chapter I shall have to make one of recipes chiefly, for it treats
+of a branch of cooking not usually found in cookery books, or at least
+there is seldom anything on the art of confectionery beyond molasses or
+cream taffy and nougat. These, therefore, I shall not touch upon, but
+rather show you how to make the expensive French candies.
+
+The great art of making these exquisite candies is in boiling the sugar,
+and it is an art easily acquired with patience.
+
+Put into a marbleized saucepan (by long experience in sugar-boiling I
+find them less likely to burn even than brass, and I keep one for the
+purpose) one pound of sugar and half a pint of water; when it has boiled
+ten minutes begin to try it; have a bowl of water with a piece of ice
+near you, and drop it from the end of a spoon. When it falls to the
+bottom, and you can take it up and make it into a softish ball (not at
+all sticky) between your thumb and finger, it is at the right point;
+remove it from the fire to a cold place; when cool, if perfectly right,
+a thin jelly-like film will be over the surface, _not a sugary one_; if
+it is sugary, and you want your candy very creamy, you must add a few
+spoonfuls of water, return to the fire and boil again, going through
+the same process of trying it. You must be careful that there is not the
+least inclination to be brittle in the ball of candy you take from the
+water; if so, it is boiled a degree too high; put a little water to
+bring it back again, and try once more. A speck of cream of tartar is
+useful in checking a tendency in the syrup to go to sugar. When you have
+your sugar boiled just right set it to cool, and when you can bear your
+finger in it, begin to beat it with a spoon; in ten minutes it will be a
+white paste resembling lard, which you will find you can work like bread
+dough. This, then, is your foundation, called by French confectioners
+_fondant_; with your _fondant_ you can work marvels. But to begin with
+the simplest French candies.
+
+Take a piece of _fondant_, flavor part of it with vanilla, part of it
+with lemon, color yellow (see coloring candies), and another part with
+raspberry, color pink; make these into balls, grooved cones, or anything
+that strikes your fancy, let them stand till they harden, they are then
+ready for use.
+
+Take another part of your _fondant_, have some English walnuts chopped,
+flavor with vanilla and color pink; work the walnuts into the paste as
+you would fruit into a loaf cake; when mixed, make a paper case an inch
+wide and deep, and three or four inches long; oil it; press the paste
+into it, and when firm turn it out and cut into cubes. Or, instead of
+walnuts, use chopped almonds, flavor with vanilla, and leave the
+_fondant_ white. This makes VANILLA ALMOND CREAM.
+
+TUTTI FRUTTI CANDY.--Chop some almonds, citron, a _few_ currants, and
+seedless raisins; work into some _fondant_, flavor with rum and lemon,
+thus making Roman punch, or with vanilla or raspberry; press into the
+paper forms as you did the walnut cream. You see how you can ring the
+changes on these bars, varying the flavoring, inventing new
+combinations, etc.
+
+FONDANT PANACHE.--Take your _fondant_, divide it in three equal parts,
+color one pink and flavor as you choose, leave the other white and
+flavor also as you please; but it must agree with the pink, and both
+must agree with the next, which is chocolate. Melt a little unsweetened
+chocolate by setting it in a saucer over the boiling kettle, then take
+enough of it to make your third piece of _fondant_ a fine brown; now
+divide the white into two parts; make each an inch and a half wide, and
+as long as it will; do the same with the chocolate _fondant_; then take
+the pink, make it the same width and length, but of course, not being
+divided, it will be twice as thick; now butter slightly the back of a
+plate, or, better still, get a few sheets of waxed paper from the
+confectioner's; lay one strip of the chocolate on it, then a strip of
+white on that, then the pink, the other white, and lastly the chocolate
+again; then lightly press them to make them adhere, but not to squeeze
+them out of shape. You have now an oblong brick of parti-colored candy;
+leave it for a few hours to harden, then trim it neatly with a knife and
+cut it crosswise into slices half an inch think, lay on waxed paper to
+dry, turning once in a while, and pack away in boxes.
+
+If your _fondant_ gets very hard while you work, stand it over hot water
+a few minutes.
+
+Creamed candies are very fashionable just now, and, your _fondant_ once
+ready, are very easy to make.
+
+CREAM WALNUTS.--Make ready some almonds, some walnuts in halves, some
+hazelnuts, or anything of the sort you fancy; let them be very dry. Take
+_fondant_ made from a pound of sugar, set it in a bowl in a saucepan of
+boiling water, stirring it till it is like cream. Then having flavored
+it with vanilla or lemon, drop in your nuts one by one, taking them out
+with the other hand on the end of a fork, resting it on the edge of your
+bowl to drain for a second, then drop the nut on to a waxed or buttered
+paper neatly. If the nut shows through the cream it is too hot; take it
+out of the boiling water and beat till it is just thick enough to mask
+the nut entirely, then return it to the boiling water, as it cools very
+rapidly and becomes unmanageable, when it has to be warmed over again.
+
+VERY FINE CHOCOLATE CREAMS are made as follows: Boil half a pound of
+sugar with three tablespoonfuls of thick cream till it makes a _soft_
+ball in water, then let it cool. When cool beat it till it is very
+white, flavor with a few drops of vanilla and make it into balls the
+size of a large pea; then take some unsweetened chocolate warmed, mix it
+with a piece of _fondant_ melted--there should be more chocolate than
+sugar--and when quite smooth and thick enough to mask the cream, drop
+them in from the end of a fork, take them out, and drop on to wax paper.
+
+Another very fine candy to be made without heat, and therefore
+convenient for hot weather, is made as follows:
+
+PUNCH DROPS.--Sift some powdered sugar. Have ready some fine white
+gum-arabic, put a tablespoonful with the sugar (say half a pound of
+sugar), and make it into a firm paste; if too wet, add more sugar,
+flavor with lemon and a tiny speck of tartaric acid or a very little
+lemon juice. Make the paste into small balls, then take more sugar and
+make it into icing with a spoonful of Santa Cruz rum and half the white
+of an egg. Try if it hardens, if not, beat in more sugar and color it a
+bright pink, then dip each ball in the pink icing and harden on wax
+paper. These are very novel, beautiful to look at, and the flavors may
+vary to taste.
+
+TO MAKE COCHINEAL COLORING WHICH IS QUITE HARMLESS.--Take one ounce of
+powdered cochineal, one ounce of cream of tartar, two drachms of alum,
+half a pint of water; boil the cochineal, water, and cream of tartar
+till reduced to one half, then add the alum, and put up in small bottles
+for use. Yellow is obtained by the infusion of Spanish saffron in a
+little water, or a still better one from the grated rind of a ripe
+orange put into muslin, and a little of the juice squeezed through it.
+
+Be careful in boiling the sugar for _fondant_, not to stir it after it
+is dissolved; stirring causes it to become rough instead of creamy.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XIV.
+
+A CHAPTER FOR PEOPLE OF VERY SMALL MEANS.
+
+
+I AM sorry to say in these days this chapter may appeal to many, who are
+yet not to be called "poor people," who may have been well-to-do and
+only suffering from the pressure of the times, and for whose cultivated
+appetites the coarse, substantial food of the laboring man (even if they
+could buy it) would not be eatable, who must have what they do have
+good, or starve. But, as some of the things for which I give recipes
+will seem over-economical for people who can afford to buy meat at least
+once a day, I advise those who have even fifty dollars a month income to
+skip it; reminding them, if they do not, "that necessity knows no law."
+
+A bone of soup meat can be got at a good butcher's for ten or fifteen
+cents, and is about the best investment, for that sum I know of, as two
+nourishing and savory meals, at least, for four or five persons can be
+got from it.
+
+Carefully make a nice soup, with plenty of vegetables, rice, or any
+other thickening you like. Your bone will weigh from four to six pounds,
+perhaps; put it on with water according to size, and let it boil down
+slowly until nice and strong. If you have had any scraps of meat or
+bones, put them also to your soup.
+
+When you serve it, keep back a cup of soup and a few of the vegetables,
+and save the meat, from which you can make a very appetizing hash in the
+following way: Take the meat from the bone, chop it with some cold
+potatoes and the vegetables you saved from the soup. Cold stewed onions,
+boiled carrots or turnips, all help to make the dish savory. Chop an
+onion very fine, unless you have cold ones, a little parsley and thyme,
+if liked, and sometimes, for variety's sake, if you have it, a pinch of
+curry powder, not enough to make it hot or yellow, yet to impart
+piquancy. If you have a tiny bit of fried bacon or cold ham or cold
+pork, chop it with the other ingredients, mix all well, moisten with the
+cold soup, and, when nicely seasoned, put the hash into an iron
+frying-pan, in which you have a little fat made hot; pack it smoothly
+in, cover it with a pot-lid, and either set it in a hot oven, or leave
+it to brown on the stove. If there was more soup than enough to moisten
+the hash, put it on in a tiny saucepan, with a little brown flour made
+into a paste with butter, add a drop of tomato catsup, or a little
+stewed tomato, or anything you have for flavoring, and stir till it
+boils. Then turn the hash out whole on a dish, it should be brown and
+crisp, pour the gravy you have made round it, and serve. For a change
+make a pie of the hash, pouring the gravy in through a hole in the top
+when done.
+
+It is not generally known that a very nice plain paste can be made with
+a piece of bread dough, to which you have added an egg, and some lard,
+dripping, or butter. The dripping is particularly nice for the hash pie,
+and, as you need only a piece of dough as large as an orange, you will
+probably have enough from the soup, if you skimmed off all the fat
+before putting the vegetables in (see _pot-au-feu_); work your dripping
+into the dough, and let it rise well, then roll as ordinary pie-crust.
+Potato crust is also very good for plain pies of any sort, but as there
+are plenty of recipes for it, I will not give one here.
+
+One of the very best hashes I ever ate was prepared by a lady who, in
+better times, kept a very fine table. And she told me there were a good
+many cold beans in it, well mashed; and often since, when taking
+"travelers' hash" in an hotel, I have thought of that savory dish with
+regret.
+
+Instead of making your chopped meat into hash, vary it, by rolling the
+same mixture into egg-shaped pieces, or flat cakes, flouring them, and
+frying them nicely in very hot fat; pieces of pork or bacon fried and
+laid round will help out the dish, and be an improvement to what is
+already very good.
+
+To return once more to the soup bone. If any one of your family is fond
+of marrow, seal up each end of the bone with a paste made of flour and
+water. When done, take off the paste, and remove the marrow. Made very
+hot, and spread on toast, with pepper and salt, it will be a relish for
+some one's tea or breakfast.
+
+In this country there is a prejudice against sheep's liver; while in
+England, where beef liver is looked upon as too coarse to eat (and falls
+to the lot of the "cats-meat man," or cat butcher), sheep's is esteemed
+next to calf's, and it is, in fact, more delicate than beef liver. The
+nicest way to cook it is in very _thin_ slices (not the inch-thick
+pieces one often sees), each slice dipped in flour and fried in pork or
+bacon fat, and pork or bacon served with it. But the more economical way
+is to put it in a pan, dredge it with flour, pin some fat pork over it,
+and set it in a hot oven; when very brown take it out; make nice brown
+gravy by pouring water in the pan and letting it boil on the stove,
+stirring it well to dissolve the glaze; pour into the dish, and serve.
+The heart should be stuffed with bread-crumbs, parsley, thyme, and a
+_little_ onion, and baked separately. Or, for a change, you may chop the
+liver up with a few sweet herbs and a little pork (onion, or not, as you
+like), and some bread-crumbs. Put all together in a crock, dredge with
+flour, cover, and set in a slow oven for an hour and a half; then serve,
+with toasted bread around the dish.
+
+It is very poor economy to buy inferior meat. One pound of fine beef has
+more nourishment than two of poor quality. But there is a great
+difference in prices of different parts of meat, and it is better
+management to choose the cheap part of fine beef than to buy the sirloin
+of a poor ox even at the same price; and, by good cooking many parts not
+usually chosen, and therefore sold cheaply, can be made very good. Yet
+you must remember, that a piece of meat at seven cents a pound, in which
+there is at least half fat and bone, such as brisket, etc., is less
+economical than solid meat at ten or twelve.
+
+Pot roasts are very good for parts of meat not tender enough for
+roasting, the "cross-rib," as some butchers term it, being very good for
+this purpose; it is all solid meat, and being very lean, requires a
+little fat pork, which may be laid at the bottom of the pot; or better
+still, holes made in the meat and pieces of the fat drawn through,
+larding in a rough way, so that they cut together. A pot roast is best
+put on in an iron pot, without water, allowed to get finely brown on one
+side, then turned, and when thoroughly brown on the other a little water
+may be added for gravy; chop parsley or any seasoning that is
+preferred. Give your roast at least three hours to cook. Ox cheek, as
+the head is called, is very good, and should be very cheap; prepare it
+thus:
+
+Clean the cheek, soak it in water six hours, and cut the meat from the
+bones, which break up for soup; then take the meat, cut into neat
+pieces, put it in an earthen crock, a layer of beef, some thin pieces of
+pork or bacon, some onions, carrots, and turnips, cut _thin_, or chopped
+fine, and sprinkled over the meat; also, some chopped parsley, a little
+thyme, and bay leaf, pepper and salt, and a clove to each layer; then
+more beef and a little pork, vegetables, and seasoning, as before. When
+all your meat is in pour over it, if you have it, a tumbler of hard
+cider and one of water, or else two of water, in which put a half gill
+of vinegar. If you have no tight-fitting cover to your crock, put a
+paste of flour and water over it to keep the steam in. Place the crock
+in a slow oven five or six hours, and when it is taken out remove the
+crust and skim. Any piece of beef cooked in this way is excellent.
+
+Ox heart is one of the cheapest of dishes, and really remarkably nice,
+and it is much used by economical people abroad.
+
+The heart should be soaked in vinegar and water three or four hours,
+then cut off the lobes and gristle, and stuff it with fat pork chopped,
+bread-crumbs, parsley, thyme, pepper, and salt; then tie it in a cloth
+and very slowly simmer it (large end up) for two hours; take it up,
+remove the cloth, and flour it, and roast it a nice brown. Lay in the
+pan in which it is to be roasted some fat pork to baste it. Any of this
+left over is excellent hashed, or, warmed in slices with a rich brown
+gravy, cannot be told from game. Another way is to stuff it with sage
+and onions. It must always be served _very hot_ with hot plates and on a
+very hot dish.
+
+Fore quarter of mutton is another very economical part of meat, if you
+get your butcher to cut it so that it may not only be economical, but
+really afford a choice joint. Do not then let him hack the shoulder
+across, but, before he does a thing to it, get him to take the shoulder
+out in a round plate-shaped joint, with knuckle attached; if he does
+this well, that is, cuts it close to the bone of the ribs, you will have
+a nice joint; then do not have it chopped at all; this should be roasted
+in the oven very nicely, and served with onion sauce or stewed onions.
+If onions are not liked, mashed turnips are the appropriate vegetable.
+This joint, to be enjoyed, must be properly carved, and that is, across
+the middle from the edge to the bone, the same as a leg of mutton; and
+like the leg, you must learn, as I cannot describe it in words, where
+the bone lies, then have that side nearest you and cut from the opposite
+side.
+
+You have, besides this joint, another roast from the ribs, or else cut
+it up into chops till you come to the part under the shoulder; from this
+the breast should be separated and both either made into a good Irish
+stew, or the breast prepared alone in a way I shall describe, the neck
+and thin ribs being stewed or boiled.
+
+The neck of mutton is very tender boiled and served with parsley or
+caper sauce; the liquor it is boiled in served as broth, with vegetables
+and rice, or prepared as directed in a former chapter for the broth from
+leg of mutton.
+
+The mode I am about to give of preparing breast of mutton was told me by
+a Welsh lady of rank, at whose table I ate it (it appeared as a side
+dish), and who said, half laughingly, "Will you take some 'fluff'? We
+are very fond of it, but breast of mutton is such a despised dish I
+never expect any one else to like it." I took it, on my principle of
+trying everything, and did find it very good. This lady told me that,
+having of course a good deal of mutton killed on her father's estate,
+and the breast being always despised by the servants, she had invented a
+way of using it to avoid waste. Her way was this:
+
+Set the breast of mutton on the fire whole, just covered with water in
+which is a little salt. When it comes to the boil draw it back and let
+it _simmer_ three hours; then take it up and draw out the bones, and lay
+a force-meat of bread-crumbs, parsley, thyme, chopped suet, salt and
+pepper all over it; double or roll it, skewer it, and coat it thickly
+with egg and bread-crumbs; then bake in a moderate oven, basting it
+often with nice dripping or butter; when nicely brown it is done, and
+eats like the tenderest lamb. It was, when I saw it, served on a bed of
+spinach. I like it better on a bed of stewed onions.
+
+I now give some dishes made without meat.
+
+RAGOUT OF CUCUMBER AND ONIONS.--Fry equal quantities of large cucumbers
+and onions in slices until they are a nice brown. The cucumber will
+brown more easily if cut up and put to drain some time before using;
+then flour each slice. When both are brown, pour on them a cup of water,
+and let them stew for half an hour; then take a good piece of butter in
+which you have worked a dessert-spoonful of flour (browned); add pepper,
+salt, and a little tomato catsup or stewed tomato. This is a rich-eating
+dish if nicely made, and will help out cold meat or a scant quantity of
+it very well. A little cold meat may be added if you have it. ONION
+SOUP.--Fry six large onions cut into slices with a quarter of a pound of
+butter till they are of a bright brown, then well mix in a tablespoonful
+of flour, and pour on them rather more than a quart of water. Stew
+gently until the onions are quite tender, season with a spoonful of salt
+and a little sugar; stir in quickly a _liaison_ made with the yolks of
+two eggs mixed with a gill of milk or cream (do not let it boil
+afterwards), put some toast in a tureen, and serve very hot.
+
+PEA SOUP.--Steep some yellow split peas all night, next morning set them
+on to boil with two quarts of water to a pint of peas; in the water put
+a tiny bit of soda. In another pot put a large carrot, a turnip, an
+onion, and a large head of celery, all cut small and covered with water.
+When both peas and vegetables are tender, put them together, season with
+salt, pepper, and a little sugar, and let them gently stew till thick
+enough; then strain through a colander, rubbing the vegetables well, and
+return to the pot while you fry some sippets of bread a crisp brown;
+then stir into the soup two ounces of butter in which you have rolled a
+little flour.
+
+This soup is simply delicious, and the fact of it being _maigre_ will
+not be remembered.
+
+POTATO SOUP is another of this good kind, for meat is scarcely required,
+so good is it without.
+
+Boil some potatoes, then rub them through a colander into two quarts of
+hot milk (skimmed does quite well); have some fine-chopped parsley and
+onion, add both with salt and pepper, stew three quarters of an hour;
+then stir in a large piece of butter, and beat two eggs with a little
+cold milk, stir in quickly, and serve with fried bread. There should be
+potatoes enough to make the soup as thick as cream. Do not be
+prejudiced against a dish because there is no meat in it, and you think
+it cannot be nourishing. This chapter is not written for those with whom
+meat, or money, is plentiful; and if it be true that man is nourished
+"not by what he eats, but by what he assimilates," and, according to an
+American medical authority, "what is eaten with distaste is not
+assimilated" (Dr. Hall), it follows that an enjoyable dinner, even
+without meat, will be more nourishing than one forced down because it
+lacks savor; that potato soup will be more nourishing than potatoes and
+butter, with a cup of milk to drink, because more enjoyable. Yet it
+costs no more, for the soup can be made without the eggs if they are
+scarce.
+
+Or say bread and butter and onions. They will not be very appetizing,
+especially if they had to be a frequent meal, yet onion soup is made
+from the same materials, and in France is a very favorite dish, even
+with those well able to put meat in it if they wished.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XV.
+
+A FEW THINGS IT IS WELL TO REMEMBER.
+
+
+EVERY housekeeper has pet "wrinkles" of her own which she thinks are
+especially valuable; some are known to all the world, others are new to
+many. So it may be with mine; but, on the chance that some few things
+are as new to my friends as they were to me, I jot them down without any
+pretense of order or regularity.
+
+Lemons will keep fresher and better in water than any other way. Put
+them in a crock, cover them with water. They will in winter keep two or
+three months, and the peel be as fresh as the day they were put in. Take
+care, of course, that they do not get frosted. In summer change the
+water twice a week; they will keep a long time.
+
+In grating nutmegs begin at the flower end; if you commence at the
+other, there will be a hole all the way through.
+
+Tea or coffee made hot (not at all scorched), before water is added, are
+more fragrant and stronger. Thus, by putting three spoonfuls of tea in
+the pot and setting in a warm place before infusing, it will be as
+strong as if you make tea with four spoonfuls without warming it, and
+much more fragrant.
+
+Vegetables that are strong can be made much milder by tying a bit of
+bread in a clean rag and boiling it with them.
+
+Bread dough is just as good made the day before it is used; thus, a
+small family can have fresh bread one day, rolls the next, by putting
+the dough in a cold place enveloped in a damp cloth. In winter, kept
+cold, yet not in danger of freezing, it will keep a week.
+
+Celery seed takes the place of celery for soup or stews when it is
+scarce; parsley seed of parsley.
+
+Green beans, gherkins, etc., put down when plentiful in layers of rock
+salt, will keep crisp and green for months, and can be taken out and
+pickled when convenient.
+
+Lemon or orange peel grated and mixed with powdered sugar and a squeeze
+of its own juice (the sugar making it into paste) is excellent to keep
+for flavoring; put it into a little pot and it will keep for a year.
+
+Bread that is very stale may be made quite fresh for an hour or two by
+dipping it quickly into milk or water, and putting it in a brisk oven
+till _quite hot through_. It must be eaten at once, or it will be as
+stale as ever when cold.
+
+Meat to be kept in warm weather should be rubbed over with salad oil,
+every crevice filled with ginger; meat that is for roasting or frying is
+much better preserved in this way than with salt; take care that every
+part of the surface has a coat of oil. Steaks or chops cut off, which
+always keep badly, should be dipped into warm butter or even dripping,
+if oil is not handy (the object being to exclude the air), and then hung
+up till wanted.
+
+Mutton in cold weather should be hung four or five weeks in a place not
+subject to changes of temperature, and before it is so hung, every
+crevice filled with ginger and thoroughly dredged with flour, which
+must be then rubbed in with the hand till the surface is quite dry. This
+is the English fashion of keeping venison.
+
+It may be useful for those who burn kerosene to know that when their
+lamps smell, give a bad light, and smoke, it is not necessary to buy new
+burners. Put the old ones in an old saucepan with water and a
+tablespoonful of soda, let them boil half an hour, wipe them, and your
+trouble will be over.
+
+Meat that has become slightly tainted may be quite restored by washing
+it in water in which is a teaspoonful of borax, cutting away every part
+in the least discolored.
+
+In summer when meat comes from the butcher's, if it is not going to be
+used the same day, it should be washed over with vinegar.
+
+Poultry in summer should always have a piece of charcoal tied in a rag
+placed in the stomach, to be removed before cooking. Pieces of charcoal
+should also be put in the refrigerator and changed often.
+
+Oyster shells put one at a time in a stove that is "clinkered" will
+clean the bricks entirely. They should be put in when the fire is
+burning brightly.
+
+Salt and soapstone powder (to be bought at the druggist's) mend fire
+brick; use equal quantities, make into a paste with water, and cement
+the brick; they will be as strong as new ones.
+
+Ink spilled on carpets may be entirely removed by rubbing while wet with
+blotting paper, using fresh as it soils.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVI.
+
+ON SOME TABLE PREJUDICES.
+
+
+MANY people have strong prejudices against certain things which they
+have never even tasted, or which they do frequently take and like as a
+part of something else, without knowing it. How common it is to hear and
+see untraveled people declare that they dislike garlic, and could not
+touch anything with it in. Yet those very people will take
+Worcestershire sauce, in which garlic is actually predominant, with
+everything they eat; and think none but English pickles eatable, which
+owe much of their excellence to the introduction of a _soupcon_ of
+garlic. Therefore I beg those who actually only know garlic from hearsay
+abuse of it, or from its presence on the breath of some inveterate
+garlic eater, to give it a fair trial when it appears in a recipe. It is
+just one of those things that require the most delicate handling, for
+which the French term a "_suspicion_" is most appreciated; it should
+only be a suspicion, its presence should never be pronounced. As Blot
+once begged his readers, "Give garlic a fair trial in a _remolade_
+sauce." (Montpellier butter beaten into mayonnaise is a good _remolade_
+for cold meat or fish.)
+
+Curry is one of those things against which many are strongly prejudiced,
+and I am inclined to think it is quite an acquired taste, but a taste
+which is an enviable one to its possessors; for them there is endless
+variety in all they eat. The capabilities of curry are very little known
+in this country, and, as the taste for it is so limited, I will not do
+more in its defense than indicate a pleasant use to which it may be put,
+and in which form it would be a welcome condiment to many to whom "a
+curry," pure and simple, would be obnoxious. I once knew an Anglo-Indian
+who used curry as most people use cayenne; it was put in a pepper-box,
+and with it he would at times pepper his fish or kidneys, even his eggs.
+Used in this way, it imparts a delightful piquancy to food, and is
+neither hot nor "spicy."
+
+Few people are so prejudiced as the English generally, and the
+stay-at-home Americans; but the latter are to be taught by travel, the
+Englishman rarely.
+
+The average Briton leaves his island shores with the conviction that he
+will get nothing fit to eat till he gets back, and that he will have to
+be uncommonly careful once across the channel, or he will be having
+fricasseed frogs palmed on him for chicken. Poor man! in his horror of
+frogs, he does not know that the Paris restaurateur who should give the
+costly frog for chicken, would soon end in the bankruptcy court.
+
+"If I could only get a decent dinner, a good roast and plain potato, I
+would like Paris much better," said an old Englishman to me once in that
+gay city.
+
+"But surely you can."
+
+"No; I have been to restaurants of every class, and called for beefsteak
+and roast beef, but have never got the real article, although it's my
+belief," said he, leaning forward solemnly, "that I have eaten _horse_
+three times this week." Of course the Englishman of rank, who has spent
+half his life on the continent, is not at all the _average_ Englishman.
+
+Americans think the hare and rabbits, of which the English make such
+good use, very mean food indeed, and if they are unprejudiced enough to
+try them, from the fact that they are never well cooked, they dislike
+them, which prejudice the English reciprocate by looking on squirrels as
+being as little fit for food as a rat. And a familiar instance of
+prejudice from ignorance carried even to insanity, is that of the Irish
+in 1848, starving rather than eat the "yaller male," sent them by
+generous American sympathizers; yet they come here and soon get over
+that dislike. Not so the French, who look on oatmeal and Indian meal as
+most unwholesome food. "_Ca pese sur l'estomac, ca creuse l'estomac_," I
+heard an old Frenchwoman say, trying to dissuade a mother from giving
+her children mush.
+
+The moral of all of which is, that for our comfort's sake, and the
+general good we should avoid unreasonable prejudices against unfamiliar
+food. We of course have a right to our honest dislikes; but to condemn
+things because we have heard them despised, is prejudice.
+
+
+
+
+CHAPTER XVII.
+
+A CHAPTER OF ODDS AND ENDS--VALEDICTORY.
+
+
+I HAVE alluded, in an earlier chapter, to the fact that many
+inexperienced cooks are afraid of altering recipes; a few words on this
+subject may not be out of place. As a rule, a recipe should be
+faithfully followed in all important points; for instance, in making
+soup you cannot because you are short of the given quantity of meat, put
+the same amount of water as directed for the full quantity, without
+damaging your soup; but you may easily reduce water and _every other
+ingredient_ in the same proportion; and, in mere matters of flavoring,
+you may vary to suit circumstances. If you are told to use cloves, and
+have none, a bit of mace may be substituted.
+
+If you read a recipe, and it calls for something you have not, consider
+whether that something has anything to do with the substance of the
+dish, or whether it is merely an accessory for which something else can
+be substituted. For instance, if you are ordered to use cream in a
+sauce, milk with a larger amount of well-washed butter may take its
+place; but if you are told to use cream for charlotte russe or trifles,
+there is no way in which you could make milk serve, since it is not an
+accessory but the chief part of those dishes. For a cake in which cream
+is used, butter whipped to a cream may take its place. Wine is usually
+optional in savory dishes; it gives richness only.
+
+Again, in cakes be very careful the exact proportions of flour, eggs,
+and milk are observed; of butter you can generally use more or less,
+having a more or less rich cake in proportion. In any but plain cup
+cakes (which greatly depend on soda and acid for their lightness) never
+lessen the allowance of eggs; never add milk if a cake is too stiff (but
+an extra egg may always be used), unless milk is ordered in the recipe,
+when more or less may be used as needed. Flavoring may be always varied.
+
+In reducing a recipe always reduce _every ingredient_, and it can make
+no difference in the results. Sometimes, in cookery books, you are told
+to use articles not frequently found in ordinary kitchens; for instance,
+a larding-needle (although that can be bought for twenty-five cents at
+any house-furnishing store, and should always be in a kitchen); but, in
+case you have not one for meat, you may manage by making small cuts and
+inserting slips of bacon.
+
+Another article that is very useful, but seldom, if ever, to be found in
+small kitchens, is a salamander; but when you wish to brown the top of a
+dish, and putting it in the oven would not do, or the oven is not quick
+enough to serve, an iron shovel, made nearly red, and a few red cinders
+in it, is a very good salamander. It must be held over the article that
+requires browning near enough to color it, yet not to burn.
+
+In the recipes I have given nothing is required that cannot be obtained,
+with more or less ease, in New York. For syrups, fruit juices, etc.,
+apply to your druggist; if he has not them he will tell you where to
+obtain them. We often make up our minds that because a thing is not
+commonly used in this country, it is impossible to get it. Really there
+are very few things not to be got in New York City to the intelligent
+seeker. You need an article of French or Italian or may be English
+grocery, that your grocer, a first-class one, perhaps, has not, and you
+make up your mind you cannot get it. But go into the quarters where
+French people live, and you can get everything belonging to the French
+_cuisine_. So prejudiced are the French in favor of the productions of
+_la belle France_, that they do not believe in our parsley or our chives
+or garlic or shallots; for I know at least one French grocer who imports
+them for his customers. On being asked why he brought them from France
+to a country where those very things were plentiful, he answered:
+
+"Oh, French herbs are much finer."
+
+Needless to say tarragon is one of the herbs so imported, and can thus
+be bought; but, as several New Jersey truck gardeners grow all kinds of
+French herbs, they can be got in Washington Market, and most druggists
+keep them dried; but for salads, Montpellier butter, and some other
+uses, the dried herb would not do, although for flavoring it would
+serve; but the far better way is to grow them for yourself, as I have
+done. Any large seedsman will supply you with burnet, tarragon, and
+borage (very useful for salads, punch, etc.) seeds, and if you live in
+the country, have an herb bed; if in town, there are few houses where
+there is not ground enough to serve for the purpose; but even in these
+few houses one can have a box of earth in the kitchen window, in which
+your seeds will flourish.
+
+Parsley is a thing in almost daily request in winter, yet it is very
+expensive to buy it constantly for the sake of using the small spray
+that often suffices. It is a good plan, therefore, in fall, to get a few
+roots, plant them in a pot or box, and they will flourish all winter,
+if kept where they will not freeze, and be ready for garnishing at any
+minute.
+
+Always, as far as your means allow, have every convenience for cooking.
+By having utensils proper for every purpose you save a great deal of
+work and much vexation of spirit. Yet it should be no excuse for bad
+work that such utensils are not at hand. A willing and intelligent cook
+will make the best of what she has. Apropos of this very thing Gouffe
+relates that a friend of his, an "artist" of renown, was sent for to the
+chateau of a Baron Argenteuil, who had taken a large company with him,
+unexpectedly crowding the chateau in every part. He was shown into a
+dark passage in which a plank was suspended from the ceiling, and told
+this was to be his kitchen. He had to fashion his own utensils, for
+there was nothing provided, and his pastry he had to bake in a
+frying-pan--besides building two monumental _plats_ on that board--and
+prepare a cold _entree_. But he cheerfully set to work to overcome
+difficulties, achieved his task, and was rewarded by the plaudits of the
+diners. Such difficulties as these our servants never have to encounter,
+and a cheerful endeavor to make the best of everything should be the
+rule. Yet, let us spare them all the labor we can, or rather make it as
+easy and pleasant as possible; they will be more proud of their
+well-furnished kitchen, more cheerful in it, than they will of one where
+everything for their convenience is grudged, and such pride and
+cheerfulness will be your gain.
+
+There is always a great deal of talk about servants in America, how bad
+and inefficient they are, how badly they contrast with those of England.
+Certainly, they are not so efficient as those of the older country; how
+could they be? There, girls who are intended for servants have ever held
+before their eyes what they may or may not do in the future calling, and
+how it is to be done. But take one of these orderly, efficient girls,
+put her in an American family as general servant or as cook, where two
+are kept, washing and ironing to do, and a variety of other work, and
+see how your English servant would stare at your requirements. She has
+been accustomed to her own line of work at home; if housemaid, she has
+been dressed for the day at noon; if cook, she has never done even her
+own washing.
+
+She may, and will no doubt, fall into the way of the country, after a
+while, and on account of her early habits of respect, will make a good
+servant perhaps. But many of them would be quite indignant at being
+asked to do the average servant's work here. I am speaking now of the
+_trained_ servants; but, comparing the London "maid-of-all-work" or
+"slavey" with our own general servants, and considering how much more is
+expected of the latter, the comparison seems to me vastly in the favor
+of our own Bridgets. We may rest assured, however smoothly the wheels of
+household management glide along in wealthy families across the water,
+people who can only keep one or two have all our troubles with servants
+and a few added, and their faults are just as general a subject of
+conversation among ladies.
+
+France (out of Paris, from Parisian servants deliver me!) and Germany
+seem the favored lands where one servant does the work of three or four.
+Yet even they, are, they say, degenerating. Let us, then, be contented
+and make the best of what we have, assured that even Biddy is not so
+hopeless as she is painted. Kindness (not weakness), firmness, and
+patience work wonders, even with the roughest Emerald that ever crossed
+the sea.
+
+I have said somewhere else that you must beware of attempting too much
+at once; perfect yourself in one thing before you attempt another. Take
+breaded chops or fried oysters, make opportunities for having them
+rather often, and do not rest satisfied until you have them as well
+fried as you have ever seen them anywhere; "practice makes perfect," and
+you certainly will achieve perfection if you are not discouraged by one
+failure. But above all things never make experiments for company; let
+them be made when it really matters little whether you succeed or not,
+and let your experiments be on a _small_ scale; don't attempt to fry a
+_large_ dish of oysters or chops until it is a very easy task, or make
+more than half a pound of puff paste at first; for if you fail with a
+large task before you, you will be tired and disheartened, hate the
+sight of what you are doing, and, as a consequence, not be likely to
+return to it very soon. The same may be said of cooks; some of them are
+very fond of experiments, which taste I should always encourage; but do
+not let them jump from one experiment to the other; if they try a dish
+and fail, they often make up their minds that the fault is not theirs,
+that it is not worth while to "bother" with it. Here your knowledge will
+be of service; you will show them that it can be done, how it should be
+done, and order the dish cook failed in, frequently, giving it
+sufficient surveillance to prevent your family suffering from her
+inexperience; for, as a witty Frenchman said of Mme. du Deffaud's cook,
+"Between her and Brinvilliers there is only the difference of
+intention."
+
+Few things add more to a man or woman's social reputation than the fact
+that they keep a good table. It need not be one where
+
+                    "The strong table groans
+   Beneath the smoking sirloin stretched immense;"
+
+but a table where whatever you do have will be good, be it pork and
+beans, or salmi; the pork and beans would satisfy a Bostonian, the salmi
+Grimod de la Reyniere himself. I do not admit with Di Walcott that
+
+  "The turnpike road to people's hearts I find
+   Lies through their mouths, or I mistake mankind."
+
+But it is a fact that good living--by this I do not mean extravagant
+living--presupposes good breeding. Well-bred people sometimes live
+badly; but ill-bred people seldom or ever live well, in the right sense
+of the term.
+
+Now, by way of valedictory, let me repeat that I do not think a lady's
+best or proper place is the kitchen; but it is quite possible to have a
+perfectly served table, yet spend very little time there. Only that one
+little hour a day that Talleyrand, the busy man full of intrigue and
+statecraft, found time to spend with his cook, would insure your table
+being well served. For, after devoting say a few winter months to
+perfecting yourself in a few things, you will be able to teach your
+cook, who is often ambitious to excel if put in the right way. A word
+here about cooks.
+
+The knowledge that if they fail to do a thing well you will do it
+yourself, will often put them on their mettle to do their best; while
+the feeling that you don't know, will make them careless.
+
+Servants have a great deal more _amour propre_ than people imagine;
+therefore, stimulate it by judicious praise and appreciation; let them
+think that to send in a dish perfect, is a glory to themselves as well
+as a pleasure to you. While careful to remark when alone with them upon
+any fault that results from carelessness, be equally careful to give all
+the praise you can, and repeat to them complimentary remarks that may
+have been made on their skill. Servants are usually--such is the
+weakness of feminine nature, whether in the drawing-room or the
+kitchen--very sensitive to the praise or blame of the gentlemen of the
+family. Indulge poor humanity a little when you honestly can.
+
+
+
+
+  INDEX
+
+
+                                       PAGE
+  Almond creams,                         93
+
+  Altering recipes,                111, 112
+
+  Asparagus, to boil,                    66
+
+
+  Baba,                                  86
+    Small,                               87
+    Syrup for,                           87
+
+  Batter for frying a la Careme,         59
+     "    "    "     "   Provencale,     60
+
+  Beef, B[oe]uf a la jardiniere,         74
+           "    au Gratin,               75
+    Filet de b[oe]uf Chateaubriand,      49
+    Fritadella,                          81
+    Little breakfast dish of,            78
+    Miroton of,                          76
+    Olives of,                           79
+    Pseudo-beefsteak,                    75
+    Ragout of cold,                      78
+    Salmi of cold,                       73
+    Simplest way to warm a joint,        77
+    To warm over a large piece,          78
+    Sirloin, to make two dishes,         49
+
+  Biscuit glace, a la Charles Dickens,   85
+     "      "     "   Thackeray,         85
+
+  Blanc for white sauce,                 31
+
+  Boiling, asparagus,                    66
+    Cabbage,                             65
+    Potatoes,                            66
+    Peas,                                65
+    Rules for meat,                      65
+
+  Bouchees de dames,                     88
+    To ice,                              89
+
+  Bread,                                 12
+    Baking,                              14
+    Cause of failure,                    15
+      "   of thick crust,                14
+    Compressed yeast,                    15
+    Kneading,                            14
+    Oven heating,                        14
+    Remarks,                             12
+    Rules of time for rising,            14
+    To set sponge,                       13
+
+  Bread-crumbs for frying,               56
+
+  Bread dough, to keep a day or two,    106
+    "     "    for pie crust,            97
+    Soufflee,                            20
+
+  Brioche, 18
+    Jockey Club, recipe for,             19
+    for summer pastry,               19, 20
+
+  Broiling,                              60
+    Chickens and birds,                  61
+
+  Brown flour,                           34
+    Sauce,                               71
+
+  Butter, maitre d'hotel,                32
+    Montpellier,                         33
+    Ravigotte,                           33
+
+
+  Cabbage, to boil,                      65
+
+  Cakes, Baba,                           86
+    Bouchees de dames,                   83
+    Savarins,                            88
+
+  Candies,                               92
+    Chocolate creams,                    94
+    Cream almonds,                       93
+    Cream walnuts,                       93
+    Fondant,                             92
+    Fondant panache,                     93
+    Punch drops,                         94
+    Simple French,                       92
+    Tutti frutti,                        92
+    Vanilla almond cream,                92
+    Walnut cream,                        92
+
+  Celeraic, or turnip-rooted celery,     54
+
+  Celery seed for soup,                 106
+
+  Celery cream soup,                     68
+
+  Chateaubriand, filet de b[oe]uf,       49
+
+  Chicken,                               48
+    Broiling,                            60
+    Cold,                                49
+    Pie,                                 38
+    Potted,                              44
+    Roasting,                            48
+    Use of the feet,                     48
+
+  Clinkered fire-bricks,                107
+
+  Cold meat salmi,                       73
+    Various ways of warming,          72-81
+
+  Coloring for candy and icing,          95
+
+  Company to lunch, and nothing in
+    the house,                           44
+
+  Cromesquis of cold lamb,               75
+
+  Crumbs for frying,                     56
+
+  Cucumber and onion ragout,            102
+
+  Curacoa, to make,                      89
+
+  Curry,                                108
+
+
+  Deviled meats,                         80
+
+  Dishes made without meat,             102
+
+  Dripping, to clarify,                  59
+
+
+  Feuilletonage,                         23
+
+  Fire-bricks, to remove clinkers from, 107
+    To mend,                            107
+
+  Flavoring,                             70
+
+  Flounders, to bone,                    56
+    As filet de sole,                    56
+
+  Forequarter of mutton,                101
+
+  Frangipane tartlets,                   26
+
+  French herbs,                         113
+
+  Friandises,                            84
+
+  Fritadella of cold meat, twenty
+    recipes in one,                      81
+
+  Frying,                                55
+    Batter a la Careme,                  59
+      "     "   Provencale,              60
+    Crumbing,                            56
+    Filet de sole,                       56
+    Flounders,                           56
+    Oil for,                             58
+    Oysters,                             57
+    Remarks on,                          55
+    To clarify dripping for,             59
+    To test the heat of fat for,         57
+
+
+  Galantine,                             39
+
+  Garlic,                               108
+
+  Glaze,                                 30
+    To glaze ham, tongue, etc.,          32
+
+  Gouffe's pot-au-feu,                   68
+    Rules for ovens,                     27
+
+  Gravy,                              29-63
+
+  Grating nutmegs,                      105
+
+
+  Ham, to boil,                          65
+    To glaze,                            32
+    To pot,                              43
+
+  Hash,                                  97
+
+  Heart, beef,                          100
+    Sheep's,                             99
+
+
+  Iced soufflee,                         85
+    A la Byron,                          84
+
+  Icing,                                 89
+
+  Ink, to remove from carpets,          107
+
+
+  Jellied fish or oysters,               41
+
+  Jelly for cold chicken,                47
+
+  Jelly from pork,                       31
+
+
+  Kerosene lamps,                       107
+
+  Keeping meat,                         106
+    Poultry,                            107
+    Dough,                              106
+
+  Kitchen conveniences,                 114
+
+  Kreuznach horns,                       16
+
+  Kringles,                              17
+
+
+  Lamb, cromesquis of,                   75
+
+  Lamps,                                107
+
+  Larding needle,                       112
+
+  Leg of mutton,                         52
+    A la Soubise,                        52
+    Boiled,                              52
+
+  Lemons, to keep,                      105
+    Peels,                              106
+
+  Little dinners,                        50
+
+  Liver, sheep's,                        98
+
+  Luncheons,                             35
+
+
+  Maitre d'hotel butter,                 32
+
+  Management in small families,          47
+
+  Maraschino, to make,                   90
+
+  Marrow from soup bone,                 98
+
+  Mayonnaise, new,                       42
+
+  Meat, to keep,                        106
+    Salad,                               52
+
+  Mephistophelian sauce,                 81
+
+  Miroton of beef,                       76
+
+  Montpellier butter,                    33
+
+  Mushroom powder,                       29
+
+  Mutton broth,                          52
+    Forequarter,                        101
+    Leg,                                 52
+
+
+  Neck of mutton,                       101
+
+  Noyeau,                                90
+
+  Nutmegs, best way to grate,           105
+
+
+  Omelet, new,                           45
+
+  Onion soup, maigre,                   103
+
+  Ornamenting meat pies,                 37
+
+  Ovens,                                 14
+    Gouffe's rules for heating,          27
+
+  Oysters, to fry,                       57
+    In jelly,                            41
+
+  Ox cheek,                             100
+
+
+  Panache fondant,                       93
+
+  Parsley seed for soup,                106
+
+  Parsley in winter,                    113
+
+  Paste, puff,                           22
+    To handle,                           24
+
+  Pastry tablets,                        26
+
+  Pate a la Careme for frying,           59
+    "    "  Provencale,                  60
+
+  Peas, to boil,                         66
+
+  Pease soup, maigre,                   103
+
+  Pie, bread dough for crust,            97
+    Chicken, to eat cold,                38
+    Fruit,                               24
+    English raised,                      38
+    To "raise" a,                        39
+    Veal and ham,                        38
+    Windsor,                             36
+
+  Pork for jelly,                        31
+
+  Potato salad,                          54
+    Snow,                                45
+    Soup, maigre,                       103
+    To warm over,                        46
+
+  Pot-au-feu,                            68
+
+  Pot roasts,                            99
+
+  Potted meats,                          43
+
+  Punch drops,                           94
+
+
+  Ragout of cold meat,                   78
+    Of cucumber and onion,              102
+
+  Ravigotte,                             33
+
+  Remarks, preliminary,                1-12
+    On boiling,                          65
+    On bread-making,                     12
+    On frying,                           54
+    On kitchen and servants,            114
+    On little dinners,                   50
+    On luncheons,                        35
+    On maigre dishes,                   104
+    On management in small families,     47
+    On sauces and flavoring,             70
+
+  Remarks on soups,                      67
+    On table prejudices,                108
+    On true economy in buying meat,      99
+    On roasting,                         62
+
+  Rissolettes,                           25
+
+  Rolls,                                 15
+
+  Roux,                                  34
+
+  Rusks,                                 16
+
+
+  Salad, Celeraic,                       54
+    Potato,                              54
+    Cold meat,                           52
+
+  Salamander, substitute for,           112
+
+  Sauces,                                70
+    Flavoring,                           70
+    Brown or espagnole,                  71
+    Mephistophelian,                     81
+    White,                               71
+    Mayonnaise,                          42
+
+  Savarin (cake),                        88
+
+  Soufflee bread,                        20
+    Iced,                                85
+    A la Byron,                          84
+
+  Soup bone,                             96
+
+  Soup, celery cream,                    68
+    Consomme,                            68
+    Pot-au-feu,                          68
+    Onion,                              103
+    Pease,                              103
+    Potato,                             103
+    To color,                            67
+    To clear stock,                      66
+
+  Sugar boiling for candy,               91
+
+
+  Tainted meat, to restore,             107
+
+  To make strong vegetables milder,     106
+
+  Tutti frutti candy,                    92
+
+
+  Vanilla almond cream,                  92
+
+  Veal,                                  53
+
+
+  Warming over,                          72
+
+  What to do with scraps,                45
+
+  Where to buy articles not in general
+    use,                                112
+
+  Why meat does not brown in cooking,    62
+
+  Windsor pie,                           36
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Culture and Cooking, by Catherine Owen
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