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diff --git a/29970-h/29970-h.htm b/29970-h/29970-h.htm new file mode 100644 index 0000000..3de7c6b --- /dev/null +++ b/29970-h/29970-h.htm @@ -0,0 +1,3985 @@ +<!DOCTYPE html PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD XHTML 1.0 Strict//EN" + "http://www.w3.org/TR/xhtml1/DTD/xhtml1-strict.dtd"> + +<html xmlns="http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml" lang="en" xml:lang="en"> + <head> + <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html;charset=iso-8859-1" /> + <title>The Project Gutenberg eBook of Twenty-four Little French Dinners, by Cora Moore</title> + <style type="text/css"> +<!-- + body { margin-left: 15%; margin-right: 15%; } + + p { margin-top: 0.75em; + margin-bottom: 0.75em; + text-align: justify; + text-indent: 1.5em; + } + p.center, + #tnote p, + #fish-luncheon p { text-indent: 0em; } + + h1, h2, h3, h4 { text-align: center; + clear: both; + margin-top: 0em; + font-weight: normal; + } + h2 { margin-bottom: 1.5em; } + h4.run-in { display: run-in; + font-weight: bold; + } + + .new-h2 { margin-top: 6em; } + .new-h3 { margin-top: 3em; } + + ins { text-decoration: none; border-bottom: 1px dashed #add8e6; } + + .smcap { font-variant: small-caps; } + + .center { text-align: center; } + .right { text-align: right; margin-right: 3em; } + + .figcenter { margin: 4em auto; text-align: center; } + + .pagenum { position: absolute; + display: inline; + right: 8%; + font-size: x-small; + text-align: right; + color: #808080; + font-style: normal; + border: 1px solid silver; + padding: 1px 4px 1px 4px; + font-variant: normal; + font-weight: normal; + text-decoration: none; + text-indent: 0em; + } + + #tnote { width: 26em; + border: 1px dashed #808080; + background-color: #f6f6f6; + text-align: justify; + padding: 0em 0.75em; + margin: 120px auto 120px auto; + } + + #toc { margin: auto; } + #toc td { border-bottom: 1px dashed silver; padding: 0.25em 0; vertical-align: top; } + #toc .page { width: 4em; text-align: right; vertical-align: bottom; } + #toc .page a { text-decoration: none; } + + ul.menu { margin: auto; padding: 0; width: 17.5em; } + ul.menu li { list-style-type: none; padding: 0 0.25em; margin: 0; } + + #fish-luncheon h4 { text-align: left; font-weight: bold; margin-bottom: 0; } + #fish-luncheon p { margin-left: 2em; font-size: 0.9em; } + + @page { margin: 2cm; } + + @media print { + body { margin: 2em; } + h2, .page-break { page-break-before: always; } + h2 { padding-top: 6em; } + #tnote, pre, .pagenum { display: none; } + ins, a { text-decoration: none; border: none; color: black; } + #toc td { border-bottom: none; } + } +--> + </style> + </head> +<body> + + +<pre> + +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Twenty-four Little French Dinners and How +to Cook and Serve Them, by Cora Moore + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Twenty-four Little French Dinners and How to Cook and Serve Them + +Author: Cora Moore + +Release Date: September 12, 2009 [EBook #29970] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 24 LITTLE FRENCH DINNERS *** + + + + +Produced by Jana Srna and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was +produced from images generously made available by The +Internet Archive/American Libraries.) + + + + + + +</pre> + + +<div id="tnote"> +<p class="center"><b>Transcriber's Note:</b></p> +<p>Every effort has been made to replicate this text as faithfully as +possible, including inconsistencies in spelling and hyphenation; +changes (corrections of spelling and punctuation) made to the +original text are marked <ins title="transcriber's note">like this</ins>. +The original text appears when hovering the cursor over the marked text.</p> +</div> + +<h1 style="line-height: 1.5em;"><span class="smcap">Twenty-four Little</span><br/> +FRENCH DINNERS<br/> +<small style="font-size: 60%;">AND</small><br/> +<i>How to Cook and Serve Them</i></h1> + +<p class="center" style="font-size: 140%; line-height: 1.5em;"><small>BY</small><br/> +CORA MOORE</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 136px;"> +<img src="images/emblem.png" alt="" width="136" height="193"/> +</div> + +<p class="center smcap" style="line-height: 1.75em;">NEW YORK<br/> +<big>E. P. DUTTON & COMPANY</big><br/> +681 Fifth Avenue</p> + + +<p class="center smcap page-break" style="margin-top: 10em;">Copyright 1919, by<br/> +E. P. DUTTON & COMPANY</p> + +<p class="center"><i>All Rights Reserved</i></p> + +<p class="center" style="margin-top: 10em;"><i>Printed in the United States of America</i></p> + + +<div class="new-h2"> </div> +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_v">v</a></span></div> +<h2>PREFACE</h2> + + +<p>The Little Dinners of Paris are world-famous. +No one can have sojourned +in the fascinating capital in its normal +days without having come under their +spell. To Parisien and visitor alike +they are accounted among the uniquely +characteristic features of the city's +routine life.</p> + +<p>Much of the interest that attaches to +them is, of course, due to local atmosphere, +to the associations that surround +the quaint restaurants, half hidden in +unexpected nooks and by-ways, to the +fact that old Jacques “waits” in his +shirtsleeves or that Grosse Marie serves +you with a smile as expansive as her +own proportions, or that it is Justin or +François or “Old Monsoor,” with his +eternal grouch, who glides about the +zinc counter.</p> + +<p>But there is also magic in the arrangement +of the menus, in the combinations +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_vi">vi</a></span>of food, in the very names of the confections +and in the little Gallic touches +that, simple though they are, transform +commonplace dishes into gastronomic +delights.</p> + +<p>There is inspiration in the art that +enters into the production of a French +dinner, in the perfect balance of every +item from hors d'œuvre to café noir, +in the ways with seasoning that work +miracles with left-overs and preserve +the daily routine of three meals a day +from the deadly monotony of the +American régime, in the garnishings +that glorify the most insignificant concoctions +into objects of appetising +beauty and in the sauces that elevate +indifferent dishes into the realm of +creations and enable a French cook to +turn out a dinner fit for capricious +young gods from what an American +cook wastes in preparing one.</p> + +<p>The very economy of the French is +an art, and there is art in their economy. +It is true that their dishes, as we have +known them in this country, are expensive, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_vii">vii–viii</a></span>even extravagant, but that is because +they have been for the most part +the creations of high-priced chefs. They +who have made eating an avocation +know that it is not necessary to dine +expensively in order to dine well.</p> + +<p class="right">C. M.</p> + +<p><small>New York, May, 1919.</small></p> + + + +<div class="new-h2"> </div> +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_ix">ix–x</a></span></div> +<h2>CONTENTS</h2> + +<table id="toc" summary="Contents"> +<tr> + <td colspan="2" class="page" style="font-size: 0.8em; border-bottom: none;">PAGE</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="smcap">Preface</td> + <td class="page"><a href="#Page_v">v</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="smcap">The Bugbear of American Cookery—Monotony</td> + <td class="page"><a href="#Page_1">1</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="smcap">Flavor—Handmaid of Variety</td> + <td class="page"><a href="#Page_9">9</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="smcap">True Trails toward Economy</td> + <td class="page"><a href="#Page_15">15</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="smcap">The Appeal to the Eye</td> + <td class="page"><a href="#Page_21">21</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="smcap">Sauces, Simple and Otherwise</td> + <td class="page"><a href="#Page_25">25</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><span class="smcap">Twenty-four Little French Dinners</span><br/> + (With Directions for Preparing)</td> + <td class="page"><a href="#Page_33">33</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="smcap">Let Us Eat Fish!</td> + <td class="page"><a href="#Page_109">109</a></td> +</tr> +</table> + + + + +<div class="new-h2"> </div> +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xi">xi–xii</a></span></div> +<p class="center page-break" style="font-size: x-large; margin-top: 0; line-height: 1.5em;"><span class="smcap">Twenty-four Little</span><br/> +FRENCH DINNERS<br/> +<small style="font-size: 60%;">AND</small><br/> +<i>How to Cook and Serve Them</i></p> + + +<div class="new-h2"> </div> +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_1">1</a></span></div> +<h2>THE BUGBEAR OF AMERICAN +COOKERY—MONOTONY</h2> + + +<p>It is as strange as it is true that with +the supplies that have lately proved +sufficient to feed a world to draw upon +the chief trouble with American cookery +is its monotony. The American cook +has a wider variety of foods at his command +than any other in the world, yet +in the average home how rarely is it +that the palate is surprised with a flavor +that didn't have its turn on the corresponding +day last week or tickled +with a sauce that is in itself an inspiration +and a delight, not a mere “gravy,” +liable to harden into lumps of grease +when it cools.</p> + +<p>Most of this is simply the result of +blindly following tradition. Daughter +has accepted mother's precepts, regarding +them even as the law of the Medes +and the Persians, “which altereth not,” +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_2">2</a></span>and if it were not that increased prices +and, lately, at least, “food regulations,” +have veritably compelled her toward a +more wholesome simplicity, the United +States would probably be what it was +called half a generation ago, “a nation +of dyspeptics.” And we were a nation +of dyspeptics because the great American +mother of the latter end of the +Nineteenth Century, in spite of all her +unequaled qualities in every other +direction, and in spite of all the encomiums +she received in resounding prose +or ecstatic verse for her prowess in the +kitchen, was from the points of view of +health, economy and wisdom the worst +cook in the world.</p> + +<p>With prices as they are the American +housewife cannot afford to use butter +and eggs and flour with the prodigality +that was a habit with her mother, but so +limited is the average woman's knowledge +of cookery that these restrictions +merely mean more monotony than ever. +It is partly to demonstrate that this +state of things is unnecessary and that +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_3">3</a></span>true food economy is not at all synonymous +with “going without” that +this book has been compiled.</p> + +<p>It is upon variety that the French +cook confidently relies to make each dish +of each meal not just something to eat +because her family must have food, not +merely a sop to the Cerberus-gnawings +of hunger, but a delight to the eye, to +the palate, to the stomach—truly a +consummation devoutly to be wished +for the American home table, and just +as possible to attain as it is possible to +procure from the grocer or the nearest +pharmacist the ingredients by which +these wonders are wrought.</p> + +<p>But the average American woman +doesn't look beyond her own kitchen +and her own traditional row of spice +boxes for her flavorings. She has her +“kitchen set,” which ordinarily comprises +a row of little receptacles labeled +“pepper,” “salt,” “cloves,” “allspice,” +“ginger,” “cinnamon,” “nutmeg,” and +possibly one or two other spices or condiments—rarely +more. With these and +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_4">4</a></span>a bottle each of lemon extract and +vanilla, she is satisfied that she is fully +equipped as far as flavoring possibilities +are concerned.</p> + +<p>If she has laid in a box of sage and one +of mixed dressing with, perhaps, some +paprika and thyme, she views her foresightedness +with much complacency. +She is supplied with savories.</p> + +<p>Then she goes right on sighing, “Oh, +for a new meat, instead of the same old +round of mutton, pork, beef and fish; +fish, beef, mutton and pork,” disclaiming +utterly any responsibility for the +monotony that is undermining the +family health and temper and, quite +possibly, its morals.</p> + +<p>That is where the American housewife +makes her primary and most important +mistake. The French, on the +other hand, know that there are, literally, +hundreds of ways to vary every +dish, however ordinary it may be in its +primary state. That is their secret of +success: unfailing variety coupled with +economy.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_5">5</a></span> +However, this is not to claim that the +American palate would take kindly to +all the French cooks' little delicacies, +or that it could be cultivated to that +degree that makes a Frenchman regard +a perfectly balanced meal even as an +inspired poem.</p> + +<p>Probably Americans, as a class, could +never be induced to eat some of the +little birds—the <i>mauviettes</i>, the <i>alouettes</i>, +the sparrows baked in a pie, that so +delight the Frenchman. Also, it is a +question whether snails, even if it were +possible to obtain the superior Burgundian, +fat and juicy and cooked even +as our own Oscar used to prepare them +for certain Waldorf guests, would ever +appeal to the American taste, as even +the common hedgerow sort of snail +does to the average Frenchman.</p> + +<p>It is not that the French dinners of +Monte Carlo are necessarily so superior +to American shore dinners, or that the +little dinners of Paris are so infinitely +to be preferred to those, say, of certain +places in New Orleans, or that the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_6">6</a></span>coppery-tasting oysters of Havre are +to be compared with those of our own +Baltimore. There is no more to be +said, probably, for the woodcock patés +of old Montreuil, or the <i>rillettes</i> of Tours, +or the little pots of custard one gets at +the foreign Montpelier, or the <i>vol-au-vent</i>, +which is the pride and boast of +the cities of Provence, than there is for +grandmother's cookies such as have +put Camden, Maine, on the map, or +Lady Baltimore cakes, or the chicken +pies one goes to northern New Hampshire +to find in their glory, or the turkeys +that, as much as the Green Mountains, +make Vermont's fame.</p> + +<p>Still, there is no question but that +the American palate would benefit much +by being cultivated, not only in the +interests of economy, but also with a +view to the increase of gastronomic +pleasure, for a taste attuned to many +variations is as an ear sensitive to the +nuances of sweet sounds or an eye +trained to perceive delicate tones and +tints. It is really a matter for regret +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_7">7–8</a></span>that we, as a people, have not been as +willing to learn from the French the +art of cooking and eating as we have +been to acquire from them knowledge +of the art of dress. Until we widen our +horizon sufficiently to do this, we have +not even begun to develop all our food +resources or to understand the first +principles of true food economy—which +is not at all synonymous with “going +without.”</p> + + + +<div class="new-h2"> </div> +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_9">9</a></span></div> +<h2>FLAVOR, HANDMAID OF VARIETY</h2> + + +<p>It is because he has a multitude of +seasonings at his command and knows +how to use them that the French cook +is enabled not only to send to the table +an infinite variety of dishes, but, at +the same time, to practice economies +that were otherwise impossible. The +American buys an expensive cut of +meat and, as is right in such a case, +treats it as plainly and simply as possible. +The Frenchman buys meat of a +much lower quality, but so embellishes +it that when it comes to the table it is +superior, or, at least, equal to that which +costs much more.</p> + +<p>It may be objected that this is no +real economy, because by the time the +French cook has sauced and spiced his +cheap cut in order to make it palatable, +the cost is as great, if not greater than +it would have been had he paid more +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_10">10</a></span>for his meat in the first place. This +would be true enough according to the +average American's method of procedure. +But it is to be remembered that +the French cook has already in his +kitchen the cooking vinegars, the spices, +the dried herbs, the extracts, that in +very small amounts—a dash or a few +leaves—are used at a time; also, that +in a great number of cases, gravies and +sauces are made from the by-products +of the main dishes—those by-products +that in the American kitchen usually +go down the sink-drain or into the garbage +pail.</p> + +<p>Take a peep into the typical French +cupboard. There you will find from +twenty-five to thirty liquid seasonings +such as anchovy extract, tobasco sauce, +meat extracts, mushroom catsup, tomato +paste, chutney, various vinegars, +<ins title="Worchestershire">Worcestershire</ins> and many another flavoring +designed to give a tang and a +zest even to the most unpromising dish, +if used aright. There you will find, +too, fifty or more dry seasonings, including +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_11">11</a></span>anise, basil, saffron, savoury, clove +or garlic, cassia buds, bay leaf, ginger +root, pepper-corns, marjoram, mint, +thyme, capers and so on.</p> + +<p>Herein lie the “secrets” of French +cookery which are, in truth, not secrets +at all, but merely the application of +common sense to the cuisine. The +French have never allowed their taste +to be restricted by prejudice, so they +hail a new flavor with delight rather +than registering an instinctive dislike +because it is not familiar. With a +little applied education, Americans can +bring the charm of the French table +to their own homes rather than when +they are, as they say, tired of the +same old round of “eats,” seeking out +a nondescript table d'hôte restaurant +and eagerly consuming what is set +before them, grateful for a change.</p> + +<p>But don't harden your heart against +French cookery merely because you +have sampled it, as you fondly think, +at one or another of the “red-inkeries” +of New York or any other city. For +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_12">12</a></span>the most part the “French” restaurants +of the land are in reality not French +at all, but Italian for the most part, +and whatever Gallic flavor the remainder +ever possessed has well-nigh vanished. +There may be exceptions but, +if there are, their patrons carefully +guard the secret.</p> + +<p>But to return to our subject: It is +the French cook's knowledge of the +subtleties, the nuances of seasoning +that stands him in good stead. The +American woman who has essayed to +use some spice or savory unfamiliar to +her and has turned out a dish which her +family has declared “tasted like medicine” +is, naturally enough, discouraged +from wandering after that particular +strange god again. The truth is that +she has overdone the seasoning. She +doesn't want to be parsimonious, which +is just what the French cook is with +his flavors, only he, more scientifically, +calls it using good judgment. If he +uses garlic in a salad, it doesn't necessarily +follow that the entire household +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_13">13</a></span>must take on the atmosphere of an +Italian barber shop, for he uses garlic +or onion, not to give their flavor to a +dish, but to bring out the flavors of the +vegetables with which they are used.</p> + +<p>Vanilla and lemon have an almost +universal appeal to the palate, and +knowing this, the American cook, like +the generation before her, has always +seasoned her rice puddings, for instance, +with one or the other, just as her apple +sauce has invariably been flavored with +lemon or nutmeg, her bread pudding +with vanilla, and so all along her restricted +line.</p> + +<p>The French cook holds no brief +against vanilla, and sometimes he flavors +his rice pudding with it, but he so +guides matters that the very sight or +mention of rice pudding does not bring +the thought of vanilla to the mind, for +with him it may be flavored with +pistache or rose or have a geranium leaf +baked in it, giving a delightful, indescribable +flavor. An ordinary bread +pudding becomes veritably a queen of +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_14">14</a></span>puddings as, indeed, it is called, merely +by having a layer of jam through its +center and a simple icing spread over +the top. Ordinary pea soup exhibits +chameleon-like possibilities merely +through the addition of a little celery-root, +a dash of curry or the admixture +of a few spoonfuls of minced spinach, +and tomato soup has for most an appeal +that even this favorite of soups never +had before when just the right amount +of thyme is added while it simmers, +along with, perhaps a bayleaf.</p> + +<p>In the recipes appended to the little +dinners in this book a great many of the +French cooks' materials and methods +of procedure are set forth. But if the +ordinarily experimental American housewife +has the flavorings on hand, she +will doubtless herself contrive many an +alluring dish of her own. Variety is +said to be the spice of life. However +that may be, the spices and their +friends, the herbs, certainly make for +variety in that important function of +life, the dinner table.</p> + + + +<div class="new-h2"> </div> +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_15">15</a></span></div> +<h2>TRUE TRAILS TOWARD ECONOMY</h2> + + +<p>In the first place, no trail toward +economy in conducting the cuisine of a +household lies through the delicatessen +store or the “fancy” grocery. It is an +unflattering comment on the spirit of +thrift of American housewives that the +delicatessen store has settled down to +such a flourishing existence, particularly +in Eastern cities. Any woman +who possesses a stove and a kitchen +of her own should be ashamed to admit +the laziness that more than a semi-occasional +visit to these “delicate eating” +places predicates. There are few +things to be had in them that she +shouldn't be able to make better at +home and at a cost that is but a fraction +of what she has to pay for the usually +inferior, impersonal messes that come +ready-made.</p> + +<p>If the housewife has read some of the +very excellent instructions that were +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_16">16</a></span>printed to help her conduct her household +adequately amid the necessary +limitations of wartime, she already +knows that there is absolutely no excuse +for ever throwing away a crust or +crumb of bread. As for that, neither is +there any excuse for ever disposing of +what is left of the <ins title="morn ng">morning</ins> cereal except +to the advantage of some later made +dish, or of consigning meat scraps or +bits of fat or even bones to the garbage +pail. It is not only that, in the interests +of economy, she should use them; it +is rather that if she is a good cook she +will be very glad to have them to use.</p> + +<p>Stale bread and breadcrumbs are +the bases of a score of the most delicious +puddings on the French cook's card; +cooked cereal is one of the best thickenings +for soups and gravies, as well as +being far more wholesome than flour for +this purpose; meat scraps, trimmings +and bones should go into the stock pot. +When a soup made of these is served +as the introductory course at dinner +it will be found that the family will be +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_17">17</a></span>fully satisfied with much less meat, and +it is in the lessening dependence of +Americans on meat that will make for +the greatest item in economy.</p> + +<p>A French cook of parts would tear +his hair if he could see how fats and +drippings from meats are thrown away +in many an American kitchen. They +are poured into the sink till the drain +pipes clog and, to complete the little +serial of extravagance, the plumber has +to be called. The French cook knows +that this is the finest grease for frying in +the world and that its use would save +many a pound of butter. He strains +it all carefully and keeps the different +sorts in labelled jars or crocks. He +knows by experience what particular +fats give the best flavors to certain +things, and he knows that vegetables, +fish, eggs, pancakes and what not are +far better fried in these natural fats. +Who that ever ate an egg fried in bacon +drippings will ever want one cooked in +butter, even at a dollar a pound!</p> + +<p>One will not find the delicatessen +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_18">18</a></span>flourishing in France—one will not +find it at all—and the fancy grocery, +above mentioned, is another pitfall for +the American housewife. She likes the +sight of food done up in fancy containers, +in glass, perhaps, and buys them, +not realizing that she is paying a large +price for perfectly unnecessary and +totally unnourishing “pretties.” If she +is fearful of the handling some loose +food stuffs may be subjected to in the +stores, why does she not practice the +most practical economy, go to the +fountain-head of supplies in the city, +the large market, and buy in quantity, +so far as she can? A few ounces of +bacon, already sliced, and sealed in a +glass dish are, indeed, appetising even +in their raw state, while a side of bacon +is not, unless looked upon through the +eyes of imagination, yet the latter +method of purchasing this commodity +is two or three hundred per cent cheaper, +and when it arrives at the breakfast +table it will be found every bit as appealing +to a happy morning appetite.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_19">19</a></span> +Any consideration of economy in the +cuisine must include the meat problem. +Meat is the most expensive item on the +menu and the true solution of the question +is not only to conserve all the uses +of it but to eat much less. That would +make not only for economy, but for +better health as well.</p> + +<p>It has been estimated that 186 pounds +of dressed meat is—or was prior to the +war—the yearly average of consumption +for every American; the Englishman +being a good second with his 120 +pounds, while the Frenchman remained +perfectly contented and healthy with +79 pounds, the Italian with 72 pounds, +and the Swiss, anything but a nation of +invalids, managed very well on 60 +pounds per person.</p> + +<p>This is no plea for vegetarianism, +though it may be said in passing for the +benefit of those who think that good red +blood and hardy muscle are to be obtained +only by absorbing the red blood +and muscle of the beasts of the field, +that there is as much, if not more, of +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_20">20</a></span>this building power in the beans, the +peas, the lentils that we regard too often +as mere secondary foods.</p> + +<p>Most of all the American should take +advantage of the great stores of fish +which are equally as nourishing as meat +and may easily be made as appetising +with simple sauces that French cookery +will teach us. Fish are cheap; at least, +many neglected kinds are; they are easy +to cook and they are one of the best +foods in the world.</p> + + + +<div class="new-h2"> </div> +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_21">21</a></span></div> +<h2>THE APPEAL TO THE EYE</h2> + + +<p>No one, least of all the French cook, +calculates to feast the eye at the expense +of the sense of taste, yet it is his +experience after long years that good +digestion is much more likely to wait +upon the appetite that has been stirred +to a preliminary enthusiasm by the +attractive appearance of a dish. So +they serve little fritters of vegetables, +dabs of jelly, slices of hard boiled eggs, +pickles, parsley, cress and nasturtiums +with meats, put sprigs of fresh green +in their gravies, decorate desserts with +nut-meats, flowers and fruits, and in so +doing add a bit to the gayety of the +table, satisfied that the trifling extra +expense, time and energy incurred is +more than compensated for in the +pleasure the results afford. A fair trial +of this pleasant idiosyncrasy of the +French is convincing that the appearance +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_22">22</a></span>of a dish has more bearing on the +relish of a meal than we over here have +fully realized.</p> + +<p>They are particular, however, to be +consistent in the use of garnishings. +Flowers and fruits are reserved for +sweet dishes, except in the case of nasturtiums, +which they regard as much a +vegetable as a flower and use freely with +meats.</p> + +<p>A stew or a creamed dish is merely a +more or less indifferent something to eat +when it is dished up any old way and +set upon the table. But if it is heaped +daintily on a pretty platter, surrounded +by a ring of brown mashed potato, its +sides decorated by dainty shapes of +toasted bread, perhaps buttered and +sprinkled with minced parsley, it has +become something to awaken the slumbering +or indifferent appetite and at +practically no extra expense of time or +money.</p> + +<p>If the yolks of two hard boiled eggs +are minced and mixed with part of the +raw white of one, the paste then formed +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_23">23–24</a></span>into balls like marbles and dropped +into boiling water, one has little yellow +spheres to lend an enlivening color note +to clear soups. Two or three of these +dropped into each plate just before +serving makes a pleasing change from +the usual croutons.</p> + +<p>Sprigs of fresh chickory make the +daintiest of garnishes for cold meats, +and a few of the tender green stalks +will add to the appearance of practically +any salad. As for water-cress and +pepper-grass and, of course, parsley, +minced and otherwise, no French chef +would think of preparing a meal without +a plentiful supply of them on hand.</p> + +<p>It isn't essential that every dish +should be turned into an elaborate +work of art, as if it were to be entered +at the annual exhibition of the Société +des Chefs de Cuisine, but neither is +there any reason, even with modest +means at command, for giving cause for +that old slogan of the great American +dinner table: “It tastes better than it +looks.”</p> + + + +<div class="new-h2"> </div> +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_25">25</a></span></div> +<h2>SAUCES, SIMPLE AND OTHERWISE</h2> + + +<p>Brillat-Savarin, who would be remembered +as a wit had he not been even +more brilliant as a chef, paid his respects +to the English by saying they were a +nation of a hundred religions and only +one sauce. Being a true Frenchman he +believed a reversal of the numbers +better for the soul. It is certainly +better for the appetite.</p> + +<p>To be sure the proper mental sauce +for a good dinner is wit, and the best +physical one, hunger, but as we all of +us have more or less of an Epicurean +strain in us and do not eat solely to +satisfy bodily needs, it is well that the +American cook who essays to bring +variety to her board should have some +knowledge of those Gallic creations, the +sauces, by which she is enabled to transform +plain dishes into seemingly pretentious +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_26">26</a></span>ones, even though she never +attain that sauce that Balzac knew, +“in which a mother might unsuspectingly +eat her own child.”</p> + +<p>In the first place every French chef +keeps three kinds of what he calls <i>roux</i> +on hand, ready for making meat and +fish sauces. These are made by cooking +together eight ounces of butter and +nine ounces of flour. That intended for +use with brown meats is stirred together +till it becomes a medium brown in shade; +white <i>roux</i> is cooked only sufficiently +to banish the raw taste and not allowed +to color, while pale <i>roux</i> is kept over the +fire just long enough to attain a deep +cream color. These are mixed with +milk, soup stock, water or gravy as +the case may be when a sauce for fish, +meat or vegetables is needed.</p> + +<p>For instance, to make <i>Sauce à la +Crème</i>, for use with white entrées, take +two tablespoonfuls of the white <i>roux</i> +in a saucepan with a cup of milk and a +tablespoonful each of finely chopped +parsley, shallots and chives. Boil fifteen +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_27">27</a></span>minutes, pass through a colander +into another saucepan, add a small +lump of butter, more finely chopped +parsley and salt and pepper. Mix well +with a wooden spoon and it is ready for +the table.</p> + +<p>To make a favorite <i>Sauce Piquante</i>, +cut two onions into slices, also a carrot +and two shallots and put into a saucepan +with a scant tablespoonful of butter. +While heating over a moderate +fire, add a sprig of thyme, a tablespoonful +of minced parsley, a bayleaf and two +or three cloves. When the onions are +golden brown add a tablespoonful of +flour, a little plain stock and a tablespoonful +of vinegar. Boil again, pass +through a sieve and season with salt +and pepper.</p> + +<p>A simple sauce is that <i>Maître d'Hôtel</i>, +which is rarely made at home though so +generally liked. Put a lump of butter +into a small saucepan over a moderate +fire and add to it chopped <ins title="parsely">parsley</ins> and +chives, or parsley alone. Season with +salt and pepper and a little lemon juice +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_28">28</a></span>and while it is sizzling pour over the +hot steak or fish.</p> + +<p><i>Sauce d'Anchois</i>, than which there +isn't anything better with baked fish, +is also easy to make. Take three or +four anchovies and mash them up well +with two tablespoonfuls of butter. Now +make about a pint of brown sauce with +brown <i>roux</i> and milk, and stir the +anchovy butter into it. Just before +taking from the fire add the juice of +half a lemon or more, according to taste.</p> + +<p><i>Sauce Bearnaise</i> was a favorite of +Henry of Navarre, and it is excellent +with steaks, chops and, particularly, +roast beef. To make it beat the yolks +of three or four eggs in a saucepan, add +a tablespoonful of butter and a little +salt. Stir over a slow fire till the eggs +begin to thicken, then remove and stir +in two more tablespoonfuls of butter, +stirring till the butter is dissolved. +Season with chopped fine herbs and +parsley and pour in a teaspoonful of +French vinegar.</p> + +<p>In many parts of France they have +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_29">29</a></span>a favorite dressing for boiled fish called +<i>Sauce Ravigote</i>. To make it mix half a +pint of stock in a saucepan with a small +amount of white wine or cider, then +chop fine herbs such as chervil, tarragon, +chives and parsley, or whatever +other herbs are in season, to the amount +of about three tablespoonfuls, and mix +with the stock, adding salt and pepper. +Stew gently for about twenty minutes, +then blend a tablespoonful each of +flour and butter, stir into the sauce and +continue to stir till thick. Just before +serving squeeze in the juice of half a +lemon.</p> + +<p>The word “<i>Ravigote</i>” means, literally, +“pick me up,” and it is applied to +minced tarragon, chervil, chives and +parsley, the herbs being kept separate +and served with salad on four little +saucers. <i>Ravigote</i> butter, made by +kneading butter with the four herbs +and adding pepper, salt and lemon +juice, spread between thin slices of +bread, makes delicious sandwiches.</p> + +<p>To make the very generally liked +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_30">30</a></span><i>Sauce Blanquette</i>, which is used to raise +cold meats to the dignity of a fricassée, +take about four ounces of pale <i>roux</i>, +thin slightly with boiling water added +by degrees, then put in a bunch of sweet +herbs, cooked button mushrooms and +small onions and pepper and salt to +taste. Put in whatever cold meat you +have, cook till it is well heated and +serve.</p> + +<p>The following is called <i>Sauce d'Havre</i>, +and through the use of it it will be +discovered that the taste of curry is an +agreeable one in many another case +than in connection with the veal and +rice arrangement to which most American +cooks restrict it. Peel and slice +four onions and two apples and place +in a stewpan with four ounces of butter, +six peppercorns, a sprig of thyme, two +bayleaves and a blade of mace. When +the onions have become slightly brown +over the moderate fire, stir in a mixture +of two tablespoonfuls of flour and the +same amount of curry powder, shortly +afterward adding six gills of white stock +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_31">31</a></span>and half a pint of white sauce. Season +with salt and half a teaspoonful of moist +sugar, boil for a quarter of an hour, +adding more white stock if necessary, +and stirring constantly. Put through +a strainer into another saucepan, boil +up again, skim, and use when required.</p> + +<p>Fricasseed chicken takes on a new +glory when it is prepared with <i>Sauce +Lyons</i>. This is made by stirring gradually +three well-beaten eggs into half a +pint of plain white sauce, then placing +the mixture in a jar and standing in +boiling water till the sauce thickens. +Just prior to pouring over the chicken +add the strained juice of half a lemon.</p> + + + +<div class="new-h2"> </div> +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_33">33</a></span></div> +<h2>TWENTY-FOUR LITTLE<br/> +<span style="letter-spacing: 0.2em; margin-right: -0.2em;">FRENCH DINNERS</span></h2> + + + +<div class="new-h3"> </div> +<h3>I</h3> + + +<h4>MENU</h4> + + +<ul class="menu"> +<li>Potage à la Duchesse</li> +<li>Cabillaud à la Bechamel</li> +<li>Pommes de Terre, Genevoise</li> +<li>Salade Celeri</li> +<li>Pouding à la Vanille</li> +</ul> + + +<h4 class="run-in">Potage à la Duchesse.</h4> +<p>—Butter a baking +sheet, cover with four ounces of chou +paste, cook in the oven for six minutes, +then cover the paste with forcemeat +in small lumps, a little distance apart. +Cut the paste into twelve equal sized +pieces, each piece holding a lump of the +forcemeat, place in a tureen, pour over +a quart of piping hot consommé and +serve.</p> + +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_34">34</a></span></div> +<h4 class="run-in">Cabillaud à la Bechamel.</h4> +<p>—Mix an ounce +of flour with an ounce and a half of +butter melted in a saucepan, then +gradually add a pint of milk which has +been allowed previously to simmer with +a minced onion and carrot in it, also a +bunch of sweet herbs, two or three +cloves, a grating of nutmeg and pepper +and salt. Bring to a boil, add two or +three tablespoonfuls of cream, strain +and put back into the saucepan. Now +put in two or three pounds of cod, +previously boiled and flaked, being +thoroughly free from skin and bones. +Shake all together very gently and +when all is thoroughly hot, turn out +onto a silver dish and garnish with +sliced hard-boiled eggs.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Pommes de Terre, Genevoise.</h4> +<p>—Shred +four medium sized boiled potatoes, +season with a little salt and pepper. +Butter lightly half a dozen tartlet +moulds, cover the bottoms with grated +Parmesan cheese, arrange in each a +layer of potatoes, then another sprinkling +of cheese, and so on till the moulds +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_35">35</a></span>are filled. Put a little butter on top. +Place on a very hot stove or in a very +hot oven for fifteen minutes to half an +hour. Serve on a hot dish in the moulds.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Salade Celeri.</h4> +<p>—Trim two or three +heads of celery, cut into short shreds, +wash thoroughly in cold water and drain. +Place in a salad bowl, season with a +little salt, a very little pepper and one +or two tablespoonfuls each of oil and +vinegar. Add several sprigs of pepper-grass +and serve at once.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Pouding à la Vanille.</h4> +<p>—Place a vanilla +bean in a mortar together with half a +pound of sugar and pound well together +and sift. Separate the whites from the +yolks of three eggs, beat the yolks well, +stir them in with a pint of cream and +mix in with the vanilla sugar. Whisk +the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth and +mix lightly in with the other ingredients. +Butter a pudding mould, pour in the +mixture and cover with a sheet of oiled +paper. Stand the mould in a saucepan +of boiling water and steam the +pudding for half an hour. In the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_36">36</a></span>meantime prepare the following sauce: +Pour a breakfast cupful of canned or +fresh pineapple juice into a lined pan +with the juice of a lemon. Put this on +the fire till it boils, then pour it over a +tablespoonful of arrowroot, stirring all +the time. Return the sauce to the +saucepan and stir till it thickens over +the fire. When the pudding is cooked, +turn it out onto a hot dish, strain the +sauce over it and serve. Be careful +that no water enters the mould containing +the pudding while it is cooking, +or it will be spoiled.</p> + + + +<div class="new-h3"> </div> +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_37">37</a></span></div> +<h3>II</h3> + + +<h4>MENU</h4> + + +<ul class="menu"> +<li>Consommé à la Napolitaine</li> +<li>Cabillaud à la Financière</li> +<li>Pommes de Terre en Rubans</li> +<li>Beignets à la Printemps</li> +<li>Choufleur au Gratin</li> +<li>Bavaroise au Café</li> +</ul> + + +<h4 class="run-in">Consommé à la Napolitaine.</h4> +<p>—Place in +a saucepan with a lump of butter equal +quantities of finely minced carrots, +turnips, a head of lettuce and one of +endive with a little chervil. Add a +quart of the water in which the cauliflower +in this dinner was cooked, pepper +and salt, and simmer for an hour. +Just before serving stir in the beaten +yolk of an egg and half a pint of milk.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Cabillaud à la Financière.</h4> +<p>—Cook a piece +of cod weighing three pounds in salted +water for twenty minutes, drain a place +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_38">38</a></span>on a serving platter covered with the +following sauce: Put two glasses of +Madeira wine and a small piece of meat +glaze in a saucepan with a pint of +Spanish sauce and a gill each of essence +of mushrooms and truffles. Boil till it +coats the spoon.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Pommes de Terre en Rubans.</h4> +<p>—Take +large, smooth, pared potatoes and cut +round and round in spirals about an +eighth of an inch thick. Keep covered +with a damp napkin till all are cut, place +in a frying basket and fry in very hot +fat till a light straw color. Sprinkle +freely with salt and serve immediately.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Beignets à la Printemps.</h4> +<p>—Make a sauce +of two ounces of butter, four ounces +of flour, a tablespoonful of brandy, +a pinch of salt, sufficient water to make +a creamy paste. Cook and, removing +from the stove, work in the whites of +two eggs beaten to a stiff froth. Cut +into pieces any fruit desired, dip them +in the batter and fry in butter to a +light golden brown. Drain well, place +in a serving dish, sprinkle well with +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_39">39</a></span>powdered sugar and serve. If the fruit +is not fully ripe, parboil in syrup before +using.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Choufleur au Gratin.</h4> +<p>—Soak a cauliflower +in water with plenty of salt, then +boil in plenty of salted water for fifteen +minutes. Remove and take away all +the green leaves, lay it on a flat buttered +dish, previously rubbed with an +onion, and pour over it a sauce made as +follows: Melt an ounce and a half of +butter in a saucepan, add a dessertspoonful +of flour, mix and add a cup of +milk. Stir till it thickens, add pepper +and salt and add two or three tablespoonfuls +of grated Parmesan cheese. +Mix well and after pouring over the +cauliflower sprinkle all over with breadcrumbs +and place the dish in the oven +till nicely browned.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Bavaroise au Café.</h4> +<p>—Mix the beaten +yolks of two eggs with a pint of milk +and a cup of very strong black coffee. +Bring to a boil in a saucepan, remove +from the fire and allow to get cold, +stirring occasionally. Add the yolks +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_40">40</a></span>of two more eggs beaten stiff with two +ounces of sugar. Mix well and then +add the stiffly beaten whites of the four +eggs along with half an ounce of dissolved +gelatin. Pour into a mould and +turn out when set.</p> + + + +<div class="new-h3"> </div> +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_41">41</a></span></div> +<h3>III</h3> + + +<h4>MENU</h4> + + +<ul class="menu"> +<li>Filet de Sole à la Provençal</li> +<li>Poulet Sauté à l'Estragon</li> +<li>Artichauts à la Barigoule</li> +<li>Petit Petac</li> +<li>Soufflé Georgette</li> +</ul> + + +<h4 class="run-in">Filets des Soles à la Provençal.</h4> +<p>—Sprinkle +the filets with pepper and salt and a +little allspice and fry in salad oil with +a finely chopped onion and a little +chopped parsley. Serve with a slice of +lemon on each filet.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Poulet Sauté à l'Estragon.</h4> +<p>—Sprinkle the +pieces of a cut up raw chicken with +pepper and salt and cook in a saucepan +with a little oil. Make a gravy of +a cupful of clear stock in which tarragon +stalks have been boiled for an hour, +dish up the fowl on a hot platter, pour +over the sauce, straining it, and sprinkle +on top tarragon leaves blanched and +coarsely chopped.</p> + +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_42">42</a></span></div> +<h4 class="run-in">Artichauts à la Barigoule.</h4> +<p>—Cut off +the tops and leaves of the artichokes +and boil the bottoms in plenty of +slightly salted water till tender. Scoop +out the fibrous interior. Grate some +cooked bacon into a saucepan with a +gill of fine herbs and a cupful of broth. +Cook for five minutes. Put a little of +this mixture in each artichoke, cover the +opening with a slice of lemon and bake +in a sauté-pan in the oven for twenty +minutes.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Petit Petac.</h4> +<p>—Peel tiny new potatoes +and sauté in oil till a golden brown. +Sprinkle with chopped parsley and serve.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Soufflé Georgette.</h4> +<p>—Grate a half-dozen +stale macaroons into a half-cup of +brandy, add a pint of cream and two +teaspoonfuls of dissolved gelatine. +Whip in a dozen maraschino cherries +and turn into a mould to harden. Serve +with macaroons dipped into the liquid +that comes around the maraschino +cherries. A custard may be used in this +recipe instead of the cream.</p> + + + +<div class="new-h3"> </div> +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_43">43</a></span></div> +<h3>IV</h3> + + +<h4>MENU</h4> + + +<ul class="menu"> +<li>Potage au Riz</li> +<li>Rougets en Papillotes</li> +<li>Veau à la Suzette</li> +<li>Demi tasse</li> +</ul> + + +<h4 class="run-in">Potage au Riz.</h4> +<p>—Put half a pound of +well-washed rice into a saucepan with +two quarts of vegetable stock and boil +till tender. When the rice is cooked +move the saucepan to the side of the +fire and mix in a cupful of stewed tomatoes +and an ounce and a half of +butter. Serve with sippets of toast or +croutons that have been fried in butter.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Rougets en Papillotes.</h4> +<p>—This recipe is +for mullets, but any small, plump fish +may be used. Make a paper case for +each fish with a sheet of well-oiled notepaper +and put the cases into the oven +for a few minutes to harden. Sprinkle +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_44">44</a></span>the under sides of the fish with pepper +and salt and lay them in their cases +with a small piece of butter under and +over each. Place the cases in a baking-dish +and cook for about twenty minutes +in the oven, or more if the fish are otherwise +than small. Sprinkle well with +lemon juice just before serving.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Veau à la Suzette.</h4> +<p>—Trim saddle of +veal neatly and put it into a saucepan +with a good sized piece of butter. Turn +it constantly on the fire till it is a rich +golden color all over, then put it onto a +dish and sprinkle with salt and pepper. +Add more butter to the gravy in the +saucepan and put in raw potatoes cut +up in sections like oranges. Cover the +saucepan and cook, shaking frequently, +till the potatoes have a good color. +Add an onion, finely minced, and when +it is browned, a clove of garlic, minced +very fine; next put in a tablespoonful +of flour followed, when the flour is +brown, by about two cupfuls of stock. +Stir well and put back the meat and +any juice that may have oozed from it. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_45">45</a></span>Lastly add a bouquet of herbs, simmer +for an hour at least and serve the meat +surrounded by the potatoes with the +sauce poured over the whole.</p> + + + +<div class="new-h3"> </div> +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_46">46</a></span></div> +<h3>V</h3> + + +<h4>MENU</h4> + + +<ul class="menu"> +<li>Potage à l'Américaine</li> +<li>Filet d'Eglefin</li> +<li>Gigot de Mouton aux Épinards</li> +<li>Chou de Mer au Fromage</li> +<li>Petites Crèmes au Chocolat</li> +</ul> + + +<h4 class="run-in">Potage à l'Américaine.</h4> +<p>—Parboil a medium +sized cauliflower in salted water, +change the water and boil till done. +Drain well and press through a sieve. +Dilute with consommé or broth. Boil +a few minutes more, stirring well. Beat +up in a basin the yolk of an egg with +three tablespoonfuls of cream, add this +to a few tablespoonfuls of the cauliflower +mixture, then, taking the saucepan +containing the soup from the fire, +add the egg and cream mixture and stir +together. Add half an ounce of butter +and serve with croutons.</p> + +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_47">47</a></span></div> +<h4 class="run-in">Filet d'Eglefin.</h4> +<p>—Cut a haddock into +fillets, trimming into pieces about six +inches long. Dip them in well beaten +egg and then into sifted breadcrumbs +and plunge into deep, well-boiling fat, +frying to a rich color, turning occasionally +to cook both sides evenly. Remove, +drain, put on a cloth spread over +a hot dish and serve with a simple +white sauce.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Gigot de Mouton aux Épinards.</h4> +<p>—Roast +a small leg of mutton, putting some salt +and a small quantity of water at the +bottom of the tin. When half cooked, +remove the meat and carefully skim +the gravy of all fat. Return the mutton +to the tin, pour gravy over it and surround +it with potatoes cut to the size +of walnuts. Put back in the oven, letting +the potatoes cook in the juice of +the meat. Meanwhile cook about three +pounds of spinach, drain, squeeze out +all water and pass through a sieve. +Return to a saucepan in which about +two ounces of butter has been heated +and season with pepper and salt. Add +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_48">48</a></span>a tablespoonful of gravy from the mutton +and allow the spinach to simmer till +the meat is done. Then pile the spinach +with the potatoes about the meat and +serve, having the gravy in a sauceboat.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Chou de Mer au Fromage.</h4> +<p>—Carefully +wash sea-kale to remove grit, remove +any black parts from the roots and tie +up the shoots in small bundles. Cook +in boiling salted water for twenty minutes, +drain and keep hot. Mix on the +fire an ounce of butter and a tablespoonful +of flour, moisten with half a +cup of water in which the kale was +cooked, bring to a boil and mix in two +or three <ins title="tablespoonsfuls">tablespoonfuls</ins> of grated Parmesan +cheese. Take from the fire and +add the beaten yolk of an egg. Arrange +the kale on a hot dish, pour the sauce +over and serve immediately.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Petites Crèmes au Chocolat.</h4> +<p>—Mix two +tablespoonfuls of chocolate or cocoa +in a cup of boiling milk and sweeten to +taste. When nearly cold add to this the +yolks of two eggs, well beaten, and a gill +of heavy cream. Mix thoroughly and +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_49">49</a></span>strain into china cases. Place these in +a large shallow stewpan containing just +sufficient water to reach half way up on +the cases. Let steam for twenty minutes, +when the custard ought to be firm. +The water should be boiling when the +cases are first put in, but afterwards +may simmer. Put the cases on ice, and +serve as cold as possible with little +sponge cakes or lady fingers.</p> + + + +<div class="new-h3"> </div> +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_50">50</a></span></div> +<h3>VI</h3> + + +<h4>MENU</h4> + + +<ul class="menu"> +<li>Potage purée de Pois Secs</li> +<li>Saumon à la Hollandaise</li> +<li>Pommes de Terre, Barigoule</li> +<li>Haricots verts au riz tomate</li> +</ul> + + +<h4 class="run-in">Potage Purée de Pois Secs.</h4> +<p>—Boil a pint +of green peas in three pints of water +with a piece of fat ham or bacon, two +carrots, an onion, a leek, a bayleaf, +some parsley, pepper and salt. Allow +to simmer two or three hours, stirring +occasionally. Pass the peas and onions +through a hair sieve and add the strained +liquor. Return to the saucepan, boil +up, add some whole cooked peas with a +little mint and serve.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Saumon à la Hollandaise.</h4> +<p>—Cut a piece +of salmon from the middle of the fish, +cover in the kettle with cold water <ins title="and,">and</ins> +plenty of salt. Bring slowly to a boil, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_51">51</a></span>removing scum, and allow to simmer till +the fish is done. Drain thoroughly and +serve with the following sauce in a boat: +Take three ounces of butter, the yolks +of two eggs and put them in a double +boiler over the fire, stirring briskly till +the butter is dissolved. Mix in a scant +ounce of flour, stir well and add the +juice of a lemon, half a pint of milk, +a little grated nutmeg and pepper and +salt. Stir constantly till the sauce +thickens to the consistency of a custard.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Pommes de Terre, Barigoule.</h4> +<p>—Place +ten potatoes in a saucepan with enough +broth to cover them and boil slowly +till done. Drain, taking care not to +break them. Put a teacupful of olive +oil into a deep frying pan, heat, put in +the potatoes, tossing them till they are +browned all over lightly. Place on a +dish and sprinkle with salt, pepper and +vinegar. Serve piping hot.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Haricots verts au riz tomate.</h4> +<p>—Boil rice +carefully so that every grain will be +separate, toss it in a little butter and +moisten with tomato sauce and add +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_52">52</a></span>the yolk of an egg, well beaten and +stirred in, and a little Parmesan cheese. +Make a border of the rice on a dish and +pile in the center some French beans +plainly boiled and tossed in a little +butter with some pepper and salt.</p> + + + +<div class="new-h3"> </div> +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_53">53</a></span></div> +<h3>VII</h3> + + +<h4>MENU</h4> + + +<ul class="menu"> +<li>Potage Velouté</li> +<li>Brochet à la Tartare</li> +<li>Biftecks sautés aux Olives</li> +<li>Pommes de Terre à la Lyonnaise</li> +<li>Épinards au Gratin</li> +<li>Beignets Soufflés</li> +</ul> + + +<h4 class="run-in">Potage Velouté.</h4> +<p>—Boil a cup and a +half of tapioca in two quarts of water +and season with salt and pepper. At +the bottom of a tureen place a lump of +butter, and the yolks of two eggs, pour +the tapioca over while it is still boiling, +add a pint of hot milk and serve.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Brochet à la Tartare.</h4> +<p>—Cut a fresh +pike into slices and marinade each +slice separately with a sauce made of +sufficient olive oil, black pepper, a +minced onion, finely cut mushrooms and +chopped parsley. Cover the fish with +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_54">54</a></span>breadcrumbs and broil, brushing occasionally +with the marinade. When it +is a golden color remove from the fire, +place on a hot platter and serve sprinkled +with parsley with a tartar sauce in a +sauceboat.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Biftecks sautés aux Olives.</h4> +<p>—Cut the +steak into six pieces and toss in a frying +pan with lard. When well done +sprinkle with seasoning and remove +from the fire. Then take half a glass of +white wine, a tablespoonful of consommé, +two or three dozen green olives, +with the pits removed, and boil together +for a few minutes. Set the steak +in a crown on the platter and in the +center place the dressing. Pour the +gravy from the frying pan over all and +serve.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Pommes de Terre à la Lyonnaise.</h4> +<p>—Take +a dozen potatoes of the same size, +cut into pieces the size of a quarter of a +dollar, roll in flour and put into a frying +pan with boiling fat, taking them out +when they are a golden brown. Also +fry some thin slices of onion, mix with +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_55">55</a></span>the potatoes, sprinkle with salt and +serve garnished with parsley.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Épinards au Gratin.</h4> +<p>—Boil two pounds +of spinach and chop very fine. Beat up +two eggs to each pound of spinach, +mix with it and sprinkle the whole with +breadcrumbs. Pour over some olive +oil or melted butter and heat thoroughly +in the oven in a vegetable dish.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Beignets Soufflés.</h4> +<p>—Put a pound of +flour, a pinch of salt, a liquor glass of +rum, the yolks of three eggs and a +quantity of lukewarm water into a +mixing dish and beat these together +till it shrinks from the dish. Then mix +in the well-beaten whites of the eggs and +then allow to rise for an hour or so. +Have a baking dish very hot and put in +the paste in pieces the size of a nut, which +will triple in size while cooking. Let +them cook to a golden color, remove +from the fire and sprinkle with powdered +sugar. Serve hot.</p> + + + +<div class="new-h3"> </div> +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_56">56</a></span></div> +<h3>VIII</h3> + + +<h4>MENU</h4> + + +<ul class="menu"> +<li>Consommé Royale</li> +<li>Filet de Sole à la Vénétienne</li> +<li>Salade Barbe de Capucin</li> +<li>Beignets de Pêches</li> +</ul> + + +<h4 class="run-in">Consommé Royale.</h4> +<p>—Beat two eggs +and mix them with half a cup of milk +and a pinch of salt. Pour into a basin, +stand this in a larger one containing hot +water, place in the oven and bake till +the contents of the small basin are firm, +renewing water in the larger dish if +necessary. Allow to cool and when set +cut into small well-shaped pieces, pour +over them a quart of hot consommé +and serve immediately.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Filet de Sole à la Vénétienne.</h4> +<p>—Place +in a buttered tin two small or one large +onion cut in thin slices, a little chopped +parsley, a bayleaf, one or two whole +cloves and salt and pepper. Lay the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_57">57</a></span>fillets of two soles on these with a +generous piece of butter, pour over half +a pint of white stock and a small glass +of white wine. Cover the tin with oiled +paper, and bake in the oven for about +twelve minutes. When the fish is +cooked take out all the liquor except +just enough to keep the fish moist as it +remains in the oven turned very low, +strain it and add three-quarters of an +ounce of flour and the same amount of +butter. Bring the sauce to a boil, take +it from the fire, add the yolk of an egg +and a good amount of blanched parsley +and chervil, chopped very fine. Arrange +the fillets of sole on a hot dish, +pour the sauce over and serve.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Salade Barbe de Capucin.</h4> +<p>—Carefully +pick over and break into convenient +pieces the required amount of chicory +and place in a salad bowl well rubbed +with an onion. Just before serving pour +over a French dressing, remembering +to be in making it “a spendthrift for +oil, a miser for vinegar, a counselor +for salt and a madman to stir it all up.”</p> + +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_58">58</a></span></div> +<h4 class="run-in">Beignets des Pêches.</h4> +<p>—Peel, stone and +cut in halves some firm peaches. Toss +about in a bowl with sugar, being careful +not to break. Put a pound of flour +in a basin and stir in gradually half a +pint of water. Mix the whites of two +stiffly beaten eggs with this batter and +then add one and a quarter ounces of +melted butter. Bring olive oil to a good +heat in a frying pan, dip each piece of +peach in the batter and fry in the fat. +When lightly browned drain on a cloth +or paper, lay on a baking dish, sift +powdered sugar over and glaze by placing +in a hot oven a few minutes. Arrange +in pyramid shape on a folded +napkin on a hot dish and serve immediately. +Canned peaches, if firm, +may, of course, be substituted for the +fresh fruit.</p> + + + +<div class="new-h3"> </div> +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_59">59</a></span></div> +<h3>IX</h3> + + +<h4>MENU</h4> + + +<ul class="menu"> +<li>Côtelettes de Saumon, à l'Anglaise</li> +<li>Pommes de Terre, Marquise</li> +<li>Petits Pois à la Paysanne</li> +<li>Salade Américaine</li> +<li>Choux au Chocolat</li> +</ul> + + +<h4 class="run-in">Côtelettes de Saumon, Anglaise.</h4> +<p>—Divide +slices of salmon into shape of cutlets, +sprinkle with pepper and salt and put +into a saucepan with a small amount +of butter and toss over the fire. When +cooked take out and drain, place on a +hot dish and serve with the following +sauce: Put three tablespoonfuls of +velouté sauce into a saucepan, reduce +slightly and add one egg, four ounces of +butter, a little salt, cayenne, some +finely minced parsley and the juice of +half a lemon. Mix together well over +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_60">60</a></span>the fire till the ingredients are blended +and it is ready.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Pommes de Terre, Marquise.</h4> +<p>—Boil potatoes +in salted water and pass through +a sieve. Season with salt, pepper, nutmeg, +chopped parsley and a little +chopped thyme. Moisten with some +good gravy or stock and form into small +balls. Dip each in well beaten egg and +fry to a light brown in butter.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Petits Pois à la Paysanne.</h4> +<p>—Take fresh +green peas, or canned ones if the former +are not available, put over the fire in a +saucepan with plenty of butter and stir +frequently. Cut one or two rashers of +bacon in very small dice and toss them +in a saucepan over the fire. When the +bacon is well fried, mix in with the peas +and let the two finish cooking together, +seasoning with pepper, salt and a little +sugar.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Salade Américaine.</h4> +<p>—Cut in rounds resembling +a quarter-dollar equal quantities +of new potatoes, carrots and beet +root, all previously cooked. Then add a +sour apple, cut in the same shape, and a +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_61">61</a></span>few anchovies cut in small pieces. Pour +over this a dressing of three parts oil to +one of vinegar, add pepper, salt, mustard +and chopped parsley. Pile the salad up +and surround with cress.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Choux au Chocolat.</h4> +<p>—Into a small +saucepan put half a cup of water with +two ounces of butter and one of sugar. +When boiling add gradually two and a +half ounces of finely sifted flour and stir +till the mixture is stiff. Take from the +fire, stir some more, then add two eggs, +one at a time, beat the whole well, and +leave to cool. Butter a baking sheet, +lay the paste on it in round balls the +size of a plum and bake in a moderate +oven for about twenty minutes. Allow +to cool and then make an incision in +the side of each and fill with whipped +cream slightly flavored with vanilla or +with jam. Just before serving glaze +each chou slightly with a chocolate +icing.</p> + + + +<div class="new-h3"> </div> +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_62">62</a></span></div> +<h3>X</h3> + + +<h4>MENU</h4> + + +<ul class="menu"> +<li>Consommé Duchesse</li> +<li>Saumon, Sauce Piquante</li> +<li>Rissolettes de Bœuf</li> +<li>Salade à la Reine</li> +<li>Crème Noyau</li> +</ul> + + +<h4 class="run-in">Duchesse Consommé.</h4> +<p>—Boil four tablespoonfuls +of rice (ground) in four cups of +water for fifteen minutes, adding half a +teaspoonful each of salt and sugar. When +the rice is soft and just before serving +add a quart of warmed milk, bring to a +boil, adding lastly a dash of pepper and +paprika.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Saumon, Sauce Piquante.</h4> +<p>—Take slices +of salmon about three-quarters of an +inch in thickness and place in a saucepan +with hot fish broth mixed with a small +quantity of wine. Allow to simmer for +fifteen minutes. When cooked remove +and wipe free from broth, place on a +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_63">63</a></span>hot platter and serve with a sauce made +as follows: Melt a quantity of butter, +flavor to taste with tarragon vinegar, +pepper, mustard, fennel and such spices +as are liked. Stir over the fire till +cooked, move to the side of the stove, +thicken with the yolk of an egg and +serve.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Rissolettes de Bœuf.</h4> +<p>—With four cups +of finely minced beef mix one cup of +breadcrumbs, adding one boiled onion, +a little essence of anchovies, salt, pepper +and a raw egg. Make into balls, roll in +breadcrumbs and fry slowly. Prepare +a gravy by boiling the trimmings of the +meat in the water in which the onion was +boiled, thicken with flour or cornstarch, +add three teaspoonfuls of lemon juice +and pour over the rissolettes which +should be arranged on a heated platter +around a heap of mashed potatoes.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Salade à la Reine.</h4> +<p>—Lay strips of endive +lengthwise on the salad plates and cross +them with peeled tomatoes cut in sections +like an orange. Dress with a +French salad dressing.</p> + +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_64">64</a></span></div> +<h4 class="run-in">Crème Noyau.</h4> +<p>—Pound in a mortar +together a quarter pound of Jordan and +an ounce of bitter almonds with a scant +half cup of cream and two ounces of +sugar. Rub through a sieve into a bowl, +add a pint of whipped cream flavored +with Noyau and then an ounce of gelatine +dissolved. Pour into a mould to +set. Serve with champagne wafers.</p> + + + +<div class="new-h3"> </div> +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_65">65</a></span></div> +<h3>XI</h3> + + +<h4>MENU</h4> + + +<ul class="menu"> +<li>Consommé à la Madrilène</li> +<li>Perches aux Fines Herbes</li> +<li>Filets Mignons aux Pommes de Terre</li> +<li>Aubergines Farcies</li> +<li>Omelette au Rhum</li> +</ul> + + +<h4 class="run-in">Consommé à la Madrilène.</h4> +<p>—Put through +a medium sieve five or six boiled ripe +tomatoes, or a can of tomatoes, allow to +cool and pack in a freezer. Add to a +cold consommé and serve in cups.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Perches aux Fines Herbes.</h4> +<p>—Prepare six +fresh perch and marinade them with two +tablespoonfuls of olive oil, a sprig of +parsley, a little pepper and salt and allspice, +bayleaf and other strong spices +chopped fine. Keep the fish in this for +about an hour, remove and roll in breadcrumbs +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_66">66</a></span>lightly flavored with spices. +Grill over a low fire till a golden +brown in color and serve with butter +sauce.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Filets Mignons aux Pommes de Terre.</h4> +<p>—Marinade +the required number of small +filets mignon of mutton in butter seasoned +with salt and chervil. Leave for +an hour or more and just before they +are to be served, grill them, basting +frequently with the butter. Flavor with +lemon juice and serve with buttered +fried potatoes.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Aubergines Farcies.</h4> +<p>—Cut eggplants in +halves lengthwise, remove the inside +and of this make a farcie by mixing it +with chopped parsley, two chopped +onions and salt and pepper. Stuff the +eggplant halves with this mixture and +put the combination into a casserole +containing a good quantity of melted +butter and allow to simmer over a slow +fire till all is thoroughly done. Cover +the tops with breadcrumbs, add a drop +of oil or a little melted butter and keep +piping hot till served.</p> + +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_67">67</a></span></div> +<h4 class="run-in">Omelette au Rhum.</h4> +<p>—Prepare an +omelette as for any sweet omelette and +just before serving place on a hot platter, +pour rum over, ignite and carry to +the table blazing.</p> + + + +<div class="new-h3"> </div> +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_68">68</a></span></div> +<h3>XII</h3> + + +<h4>MENU</h4> + + +<ul class="menu"> +<li>Potage Riz, Creçy</li> +<li>Canapés de Saumon Fumé</li> +<li>Paupiettes de Porc, Sauce Piquante</li> +<li>Asperges en Petits Pois</li> +<li>Tarte à la Turque</li> +</ul> + + +<h4 class="run-in">Potage Riz, Creçy.</h4> +<p>—Cut several firm, +red carrots lengthwise, using only the +red part. Place in a casserole with a +good bouillon and allow to simmer over +a slow fire. Pass through a sieve when +the carrots are soft, and put back in the +bouillon. Add a cupful of cooked rice, +bring to a boil and serve.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Canapés de Saumon Fumé.</h4> +<p>—Cut a smoked +salmon into slices and spread them with +butter, adding pepper and salt and a +pinch of nutmeg. Heat over a crisp +fire, place on a hot dish, cover with +croutons and serve.</p> + +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_69">69</a></span></div> +<h4 class="run-in">Paupiettes de Porc, Sauce Piquante.</h4> +<p>—Take +small slices of cold roast pork +and spread them with sausage meat. +Roll them and fasten with skewers, then +cover with a thin coating of lard or with +oiled paper and cook them over a low +fire in a casserole. When thoroughly +done, take off the papers, cover with +breadcrumbs and brown. Serve with a +piquant sauce.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Asperges en Petits Pois.</h4> +<p>—Cut up the +green part of two bunches of asparagus, +roll in butter and add a little salt. Heat +a cupful of flour, being careful not to +allow it to color, and dredge the asparagus +with it. Put into a saucepan with +sufficient milk and water in equal parts +to cover, add a bouquet of herbs and +allow the whole to simmer till the asparagus +is cooked. Season with white pepper +and serve.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Tarte à la Turque.</h4> +<p>—Boil a cupful of +rice till thick in milk to which has been +added a stick of cinnamon, a little +lemon juice and sugar. When the rice +is cooked allow to cool. Make a border +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_70">70</a></span>of it on a buttered plate and fill the +center with a marmalade made as follows: +Cut the peeled stalks of a bunch +of rhubarb into dice and allow them to +simmer in a small amount of water till +they are of the consistency of marmalade. +Add three or four teaspoonfuls of +sugar, a lump of butter and the rind of +a lemon. Take from the fire and immediately +add the beaten yolks of two +eggs. Arrange, as stated, in the middle +of the rice, sprinkle with a little more +sugar and set in the oven for fifteen +minutes or more before serving.</p> + + + +<div class="new-h3"> </div> +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_71">71</a></span></div> +<h3>XIII</h3> + + +<h4>MENU</h4> + + +<ul class="menu"> +<li>Potage à la Chicorée</li> +<li>Allumettes d'Anchois</li> +<li>Bœuf Bouilli en Vinaigrette</li> +<li>Pommes Maire</li> +<li>Salade de Tomates</li> +<li>Crème Brulée</li> +</ul> + + +<h4 class="run-in">Potage à la Chicorée.</h4> +<p>—Pick carefully +and wash two or three heads of chicory, +cut into shreds and pass through a little +heated butter without allowing to take +color. Then add sufficient of the water +in which the Pommes Maire (below) +were boiled to make the required quantity +of soup, add pepper and salt, simmer +for an hour. Just after taking from +the fire add the beaten yolk of an egg. +Pour into the tureen over toasted slices +of stale bread.</p> + +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_72">72</a></span></div> +<h4 class="run-in">Allumettes d'Anchois.</h4> +<p>—Make a fritter +paste with flour and oil, omitting salt. +Soften with white wine. Wash the +desired number of anchovies, remove the +bones and draw out the salt by soaking +in milk. Dip into the paste and fry.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Bœuf Bouilli en Vinaigrette.</h4> +<p>—Cut cold, +lean beef into narrow, thin slices. Place +it in a bowl with a finely chopped onion +and some chervil, a few cut-up gherkins, +a teaspoonful of capers, pour oil, a little +vinegar and the juice of half a lemon +over, add pepper and salt, toss well +together and serve at once.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Pommes Maire.</h4> +<p>—Use “kidney” potatoes +if procurable; if not, ordinary potatoes +of small size. Boil in salt water and +peel while still hot, then cut in thick +chips and place in a casserole and cover +with boiling milk. Season with pepper +and salt and allow to boil, turning with a +fork till the milk has boiled away. Remove +from the fire, pour over a cup of +rich milk, season again and serve.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Salade de Tomates.</h4> +<p>—Cut a pound of +not too ripe tomatoes into one inch +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_73">73</a></span>cubes, add salt, pepper, vinegar and oil +to taste and then toss together with a +minced onion. Serve right away. If +desired, cold boiled beef in dainty slices +may be added.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Crème Brulée.</h4> +<p>—Blend a tablespoonful +of flour with the yolks of three eggs +and place in a casserole. Pour slowly +in a pint or more of milk, add a pinch of +cinnamon, a few drops of extract of +lemon or any flavor desired, and stir +constantly over the fire. When the +cream is cooked, make a caramel sauce +in a porcelain pot by melting five or +six lumps of sugar and cooking to the +browning point. Pour this into a +serving dish, pour the cream over it and +allow to cool.</p> + + + +<div class="new-h3"> </div> +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_74">74</a></span></div> +<h3>XIV</h3> + + +<h4>MENU</h4> + + +<ul class="menu"> +<li>Bisque d'Herbes</li> +<li>Turbot à la Rachel</li> +<li>Choufleur au Gratin</li> +<li>Salade Barbe de Capucin</li> +<li>Gâteau de Frangipane</li> +</ul> + + +<h4 class="run-in">Bisque d'Herbes.</h4> +<p>—Chop together about +a handful each of lettuce, sorrel, spinach, +also a small onion, a little celery and +some chervil and cook all with an egg-sized +piece of butter for fifteen minutes, +stirring constantly. Then add three +tablespoonfuls of flour made smooth +with a little stock, stir in four cupfuls of +the cauliflower water (which you will +have from a recipe following) into which +has been beaten the yolk of an egg. +Serve very hot with croutons.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Turbot à la Rachel.</h4> +<p>—Boil the fish +in salted water. Whitefish or haddock +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_75">75</a></span>will serve as well as turbot. Make the +following sauce: Smooth and brown +together two tablespoonfuls of flour and +two ounces of butter and stir in five +gills of water in which the fish was +boiled, adding a teaspoonful each of +anchovy essence and mushroom catsup. +Remove from the fire and beat in the +yolks of two eggs and the juice of one +lemon. Color with liquid carmine or a +few drops of cochineal and pour over +the fish.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Choufleur au Gratin.</h4> +<p>—Dip the cauliflower +into ice water, then plunge it into +boiling salted water to cook fifteen +minutes. Cut a slice off the stalk, +remove the leaves, lay on a flat dish and +cover with a cream sauce. Sprinkle +with grated breadcrumbs and grated +Parmesan cheese, brown in the oven +and serve.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Salade Barbe de Capucin.</h4> +<p>—Lay the +stalks of American endive in a dish and +cut into small pieces a medium shallot. +Mix, add a French dressing and sprinkle +with finely chopped tarragon leaves.</p> + +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_76">76</a></span></div> +<h4 class="run-in">Gâteau de Frangipane.</h4> +<p>—Whisk together +a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar +and the whites of three eggs, then beat in +three tablespoonfuls of milk, the grated +peel of a lemon and a dash of salt. Then +stir in half a pound of flour. Bake in +patty tins and when done scoop a piece +out of the top of each patty and fill with +jam. Then pour over a sauce made as +follows: Put two wineglassfuls of white +wine into a small saucepan and stir in a +cupful of orange marmalade with the +juice of a lemon. Thicken with a little +corn-starch.</p> + + + +<div class="new-h3"> </div> +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_77">77</a></span></div> +<h3>XV</h3> + + +<h4>MENU</h4> + + +<ul class="menu"> +<li>Potage Bisque</li> +<li>Canard à la Pertinset</li> +<li>Pommes de Terre à la Crème</li> +<li>Choufleur au Beurre Noir</li> +<li>Salade de Lentilles</li> +<li>Pêches au Vin</li> +</ul> + + +<h4 class="run-in">Potage Bisque.</h4> +<p>—Boil as many crabs +as are needed in water, adding salt, +pepper, two good sized onions and equal +quantities of carrots and chives. Remove +the crabs and take the meat from +the claws. Mash the vegetables until +they form a purée and add a good sized +lump of butter. Place over the fire with +water or bouillon and allow to come to a +boil. Serve very hot with croutons and +the meat from the crab claws.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Canard à la Pertinset.</h4> +<p>—Place a carefully +prepared duck in a casserole and dredge +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_78">78</a></span>it with a lump of melted butter, add two +onions, one clove, a dash of garlic. Put +in the oven but do not allow the onions +to become too brown before removing +the duck. Then add five or six tomatoes, +one glass of white wine, a glass of +bouillon, a few cloves and a bayleaf. +Let this boil over a low fire, then mash +the tomatoes and onions, put back the +duck into the casserole and boil for forty +minutes.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Pommes de Terre à la Crème.</h4> +<p>—Put into +a casserole a lump of butter, a pinch of +flour, salt and pepper, nutmeg and a +young onion. Mix well and add a cup +of rich milk. Place on the fire, stir constantly, +and remove as soon as the +mixture comes to a boil. Meanwhile +boil as many potatoes as are required +in salted water. Peel and cut into slices, +add to the sauce and serve.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Choufleur au Beurre Noir.</h4> +<p>—Boil a cauliflower +and drain. Add a pinch of salt, +nutmeg and a dash of vinegar to a pint of +the water in which the cauliflower was +cooked. Melt two tablespoonfuls of +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_79">79</a></span>butter and when it is a light brown add +it to the mixture. Pour over the cauliflower +on a hot platter.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Salade de Lentilles.</h4> +<p>—Having boiled two +cupfuls of lentils till they are tender, +season them either hot or cold with a +little garlic cut up fine, or with chives +and serve in lettuce leaves with a French +dressing.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Pêches au Vin.</h4> +<p>—Put peaches into a +stewpan and cover them with water. In +ten minutes remove the skins. Then +place them in a shallow dish and cover +them either with Madeira or Moselle +wine and allow them to stand for at +least two hours. Then drain them, +place them in the dish in which they are +to be served and cover them with vanilla +sugar. Set the wine in which they have +been soaked on the fire, add sugar to +taste, and pour the sauce boiling over the +peaches.</p> + + + +<div class="new-h3"> </div> +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_80">80</a></span></div> +<h3>XVI</h3> + + +<h4>MENU</h4> + + +<ul class="menu"> +<li>Sardines Grillées</li> +<li>Chapon à l'Indienne</li> +<li>Pommes de Terre en Matelote</li> +<li>Salade Beaucaire</li> +<li>Crème Fouettée</li> +</ul> + + +<h4 class="run-in">Sardines Grillées.</h4> +<p>—Grill half a dozen +sardines, or as many as desired, for a few +minutes. Melt butter in a frying-pan, +stir in a little flour and moisten with hot +water, then add a few drops of <ins title="vinegar">vinegar,</ins> +a dash of mustard, salt and pepper. +Pour this very hot over the sardines.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Chapon à l'Indienne.</h4> +<p>—Prepare and truss +a capon as for roasting, rub all over with +butter and place in a casserole with a +good sized slice of salt pork. Cook over +a slow fire for three hours. In the meantime +cook a cupful of rice, season it with +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_81">81</a></span>a little curry powder and pimento, and +place around the capon on the platter +on which it is served.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Pommes de Terre en Matelote.</h4> +<p>—Slice +freshly boiled potatoes and cook en +casserole with seasoning of pepper and +salt, two or three sliced onions, a sprig +of chopped parsley, a lump of butter +and a small amount of flour and water. +Cook till all the ingredients are well +blended and when heaped on a platter +and ready for the table, pour over a +glass or two of wine.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Salade Beaucaire.</h4> +<p>—Chop coarsely celery +and endive together, season with oil, +vinegar and mustard an hour before +using. Just before taking to the table, +add chopped boiled ham, a sour apple, +diced, moistened with a little tarragon +and mayonnaise. Surround the salad +with a border of small potatoes, boiled +and sliced, alternated with slices of beet.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Crème Fouettée.</h4> +<p>—Whip cream till it is +very thick or make about a quart of +custard. Mash thoroughly a pound of +cherries or raspberries, or both with +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_82">82</a></span>powdered sugar. Mix with the cream +or custard, beat again and serve immediately. +In summer this may be +iced with good results.</p> + + + +<div class="new-h3"> </div> +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_83">83</a></span></div> +<h3>XVII</h3> + + +<h4>MENU</h4> + + +<ul class="menu"> +<li>Potage Macédoine</li> +<li>Homards et Champignons</li> +<li>Côtelettes de Mouton à la Brunoise</li> +<li>Petits Pois à la Française</li> +<li>Choux à la Crème</li> +</ul> + + +<h4 class="run-in">Potage Macédoine.</h4> +<p>—Place thin pieces +of ham in the bottom of a saucepan and +then put in three each of turnips, potatoes +and onions, all cut up small. Pour +in some stock, season with pepper and +salt and simmer till the ham and vegetables +are cooked. Add a quart of milk +and bring almost to a boil, strain and +serve immediately.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Homards et Champignons.</h4> +<p>—Cut an +equal quantity of lobster meat and +mushrooms into dice. Boil some velouté +sauce together with some essence of +mushrooms till somewhat reduced, then +thicken and mix with the lobster and +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_84">84</a></span>mushrooms. Fill ramekin cases with the +preparation, sprinkle with breadcrumbs, +pour over a little melted butter and bake +in the oven till browned. Serve piping +hot.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Côtelettes de Mouton à la Brunoise.</h4> +<p>—Trim +mutton cutlets neatly, cutting +away all fat, and place side by side in a +large stewpan. Cover with well-flavored +stock and leave to simmer, well covered, +for an hour and a half. Take equal +quantities of turnips, onions and celery +and double the amount of carrots, cut +all into quarter-inch cubes and fry in +butter till they begin to color, putting +in first the carrots, then the celery, then +the onions and last the turnips. When +all are done, drain and allow them to +simmer gently in a little common stock. +A little while before the cutlets are done +drain off all the surplus stock from the +vegetables, or boil it down quickly over +a hot fire. Dress the cutlets on the rim +of a platter, heap the vegetables in the +center and pour the gravy all over them. +Accompany with mashed potatoes.</p> + +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_85">85</a></span></div> +<h4 class="run-in">Petits Pois à la Française.</h4> +<p>—Cook a pint +of shelled peas till tender, drain and place +on the back of the fire with not quite a +gill of the water in which they have been +boiled, a little flour and an ounce of +butter. Simmer for five minutes, adding +pepper and salt to taste and just before +taking from the fire add the yolk of an +egg mixed with a tablespoonful and a +half of cream. Serve very hot in china +or paper cases.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Choux à la Crème.</h4> +<p>—Put a small piece +of butter in a saucepan with half a pint +of water, a teaspoonful of sugar, a piece +of lemon peel and a little salt. Boil well +together, stir in two tablespoonfuls of +flour and stir till thick and cooked. +Allow this paste to cool and then work +into it two eggs and sufficient milk to +make it thin enough to drop from a +spoon. Heat lard in a deep frying pan, +not quite to the point of boiling, and +with a spoon drop the paste into it in +lumps about the size of a hen's egg. +When slightly brown and well swollen, +remove the cakes, drain them well, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_86">86</a></span>scoop out a little of the top of each +to form a hollow and allow them to cool. +Whip cream to a stiff froth and put a +small amount into the hollow of each +chou, arrange on a fancy dish and serve. +The chou may be filled with jelly or preserves +if preferred.</p> + + + +<div class="new-h3"> </div> +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_87">87</a></span></div> +<h3>XVIII</h3> + + +<h4>MENU</h4> + + +<ul class="menu"> +<li>Potage à la Printanière</li> +<li>Paupiettes de Veau</li> +<li>Pommes de Terre, Maître d'Hôtel</li> +<li>Salade de Laitue</li> +<li>Feuillantines</li> +</ul> + + +<h4 class="run-in">Potage à la Printanière.</h4> +<p>—Cut two carrots +and one turnip into shapes with a +vegetable scoop, simmer for twenty +minutes in salted water, drain and place +in a quart of the water in which the potatoes +(in this same menu) were boiled. +Add a handful of chiffonade, cook five +minutes and serve.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Paupiettes de Veau.</h4> +<p>—Cut thin cutlets +from a fillet of veal and beat them flat +and even. Also mince a small quantity +of the veal very fine, mix it with some +of the kidney fat, also minced fine, and +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_88">88</a></span>half a dozen minced anchovies, adding +a little salt, ginger and powdered mace. +Place this mixture over the slices of veal +and roll them up. Beat up an egg, dip +the rolled slices in it and then in sifted +breadcrumbs. Let them stand for fifteen +or twenty minutes, egg them again, +roll in breadcrumbs and fry to a golden +brown in boiling lard or clarified dripping, +or stew them in some rich gravy +with half a pint of white wine and a +small quantity of walnut pickle.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Pommes de Terre, Maître d'Hôtel.</h4> +<p>—Cut +up carefully selected, underboiled and +cold potatoes in rather thick slices. +Dredge half a tablespoonful of flour in a +saucepan with a lump of butter and +when smooth add gradually a cupful of +broth, stirring till it boils. Place in the +potatoes along with a tablespoonful of +chopped parsley and pepper and salt. +Stew for three or four minutes, remove +the pan to the side of the fire and add +quickly the yolk of an egg previously +well beaten with a teaspoonful of cold +water and a little lemon juice. When +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_89">89</a></span>the egg has become thickened, turn the +potatoes with their sauce on a flat dish +and serve.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Salade de Laitue.</h4> +<p>—Select fine lettuces, +remove the coarse outer leaves, wash +and wipe, place in a salad bowl and +sprinkle over a tablespoonful of chopped +chives, half a teaspoonful each of +chopped chervil and tarragon. Season +with a pinch of salt, half a teaspoonful +of pepper, two tablespoonfuls of vinegar +and a tablespoonful and a half of oil. +Mix thoroughly and serve.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Feuillantines.</h4> +<p>—Prepare some puff +paste; roll out to about a third of an inch +thick and cut into strips an inch wide +and two inches long. Spread a baking +dish thick with butter, arrange the pieces +of paste on it, placing them upon their +sides and leaving a small space between +them. Put them in the oven and when +they are firm and their sides have +spread, glaze them with white of egg +and dust with powdered sugar. As the +feuillantines are cooked set them on +paper and drain off any extra grease. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_90">90</a></span>Now mask them separately with small +quantities of different colored jams. +Arrange on fancy edged dish-paper or a +folded napkin on a dish and serve.</p> + + + +<div class="new-h3"> </div> +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_91">91</a></span></div> +<h3>XIX</h3> + + +<h4>MENU</h4> + + +<ul class="menu"> +<li>Potage Crème d'Orge</li> +<li>Bœuf à la Mode</li> +<li>Pommes de Terre, Sautées</li> +<li>Salade de Romaine</li> +<li>Soufflé au Chocolat</li> +</ul> + + +<h4 class="run-in">Potage Crème d'Orge.</h4> +<p>—Mix in a saucepan +a teacupful of barley, an onion, a +small piece of cinnamon, half a blade +of mace and three pints of water in +which potatoes have been boiled. When +the mixture boils remove from the center +of the fire and allow to simmer slowly for +three hours or more. Pass through a +fine sieve and return to saucepan. Mix +in two tablespoonfuls of butter and half +a pint of boiling milk, season with pepper +and salt. Beat an egg yolk in a +teacupful of milk, mix in the soup but +do not allow to boil after egg is added. +Serve with croutons.</p> + +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_92">92</a></span></div> +<h4 class="run-in">Bœuf à la Mode.</h4> +<p>—Take the under part +of a round of beef, place it in a deep +earthen dish and pour over it spiced +vinegar. Let the meat remain in this +for several hours, then dress it with +strips of salt pork, a third of an inch +square, inserted in incisions made a few +inches apart. Stuff larger incisions +with breadcrumbs highly seasoned with +salt, pepper, onions, thyme and marjoram. +Bind the beef into a shape to +retain the dressing and dredge with +flour. Then cut up two onions, half a +carrot and half a turnip and fry in fat +drippings till brown and place in a +stewpan. Brown the meat all over with +the same fat, place on a trivet in the pan, +half cover with boiling water, add a +small quantity of mixed herbs tied in a +bag, cover and simmer for about four +hours, or till done. Take out carefully, +remove strings and cloth, and place on a +large dish. Skim off the fat from the +gravy, add more seasoning, thicken +with wetted flour worked smooth, boil +for eight or ten minutes and strain over +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_93">93</a></span>the meat. Decorate with small onions +and potato balls.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Pommes de Terre, Sautées.</h4> +<p>—Boil potatoes +until almost done, cut into quarters +or slices of medium thickness. +Melt butter or clarified drippings in a +frying pan, put in the potatoes sprinkled +with salt and pepper and finely chopped +parsley and toss over the fire till they +are a fine golden brown color. Serve +with chopped parsley.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Salade de Romaine.</h4> +<p>—Put crisp leaves +of romaine in a salad bowl rubbed +lightly with a shallot or new onion. +Make the following dressing. Take +one hard-boiled egg and mash it as +finely as possible with a fork, add a +little paprika, a pinch of salt, half a +teaspoonful of French mustard, a teaspoonful +of hashed chives, the same of +hashed tarragon, two tablespoonfuls of +oil and three of vinegar. Add this to the +romaine, toss well and serve.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Soufflé au Chocolat.</h4> +<p>—Mix a small tablespoonful +of starch with a gill of milk and +when quite smooth add two ounces of +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_94">94</a></span>powdered sugar and two ounces of +butter. Put the mixture into a saucepan +and stir over the fire till it boils. +When cold stir in an ounce of grated +chocolate and the yolks of two eggs. +Beat well together till perfectly smooth, +then mix in the whites of the eggs. +Pour into a buttered souffle dish and +bake for forty minutes.</p> + + + +<div class="new-h3"> </div> +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_95">95</a></span></div> +<h3>XX</h3> + + +<h4>MENU</h4> + + +<ul class="menu"> +<li>Potage Gourmet</li> +<li>Eglefin à la Maître d'Hôtel</li> +<li>Pommes de Terre, Casserole</li> +<li>Salade de Tomates et de Laitue</li> +<li>Canards Sauvages, Sauce Orange</li> +<li>Soufflé au Citron</li> +</ul> + + +<h4 class="run-in">Potage Gourmet.</h4> +<p>—Pour into a saucepan +about a quart of the water in which +potatoes have been boiled, add a small +amount of cold chicken cut in small dice, +two tablespoonfuls of boiled rice, two +tablespoonfuls of cooked green peas and +one truffle cut into dice, also pepper and +salt, along with one or two whole cloves. +Bring to a boil, allow to simmer for fifteen +minutes, and serve.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Eglefin à la Maître d'Hôtel.</h4> +<p>—Cut a +cleaned haddock open at the back on +each side of the bone, <ins title="duct">dust</ins> with pepper +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_96">96</a></span>and salt, dip in flour, place on a gridiron +over a clear fire and cook for about +twenty minutes, turning carefully from +time to time. Remove from the fire, +place two ounces of butter on the back +of the fish, place it in the oven to melt +the butter, then, put the fish on a hot +platter and sprinkle with mince parsley +and lemon juice, the latter heated.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Pommes de Terre, Casserole.</h4> +<p>—Boil a +pound or two of potatoes, drain and +mash and make into a stiff paste by adding +butter and milk together with a little +salt. Form into a casserole, put on a +dish, make an opening in the top, brown +in the oven and serve.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Salade de Tomates et Laitue.</h4> +<p>—Split +the white leaves of lettuce into quarters +and place in a bowl. Cut tomatoes into +thin slices and place over the lettuce. +Season with a sauce made of one part of +vinegar, two of oil, a little salt and +pepper. Pour the sauce over just before +serving.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Canards Sauvages, Sauce Orange.</h4> +<p>—Roast +two wild ducks over a brisk fire, having +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_97">97</a></span>them underdone, more or less, according +to taste. Baste all the time they are +cooking with butter and the juice of +lemon and serve with the following +sauce. Shred finely the rind of two +oranges and parboil in a little water. +Melt an ounce of butter and stir into it +a dessertspoonful of flour moistened +with a little water. Stir well over the +fire and then add the juice of the two +oranges, some very clear gravy, flavor +with pepper and salt and cayenne, then +add the parboiled orange rind. Let the +sauce boil and keep hot till wanted.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Soufflé au Citron.</h4> +<p>—Put three egg yolks +and three ounces of powdered sugar into +a basin with the grated rind of a lemon +and a half and stir till quite thick. Add +slowly a tablespoonful of lemon juice +and then, quickly, the well beaten whites +of the three eggs. Pour into a pie dish +and bake in a medium oven for twenty +minutes. When the surface is a golden +brown it is done. Serve immediately.</p> + + + +<div class="new-h3"> </div> +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_98">98</a></span></div> +<h3>XXI</h3> + + +<h4>MENU</h4> + + +<ul class="menu"> +<li>Filets de Carrelets, Italienne</li> +<li>Pommes de Terre, Loulou</li> +<li>Cailles Rôtis</li> +<li>Salade des Tomates et d'Artichauts</li> +<li>Vol-au-Vent, Chantilly</li> +</ul> + + +<h4 class="run-in">Filets de Carrelets, Italienne.</h4> +<p>—Take the +fillets of two firm flounders, trim and +flour each piece lightly. Dip in egg +beaten with pepper and salt, cover on +both sides with stale breadcrumbs and +fry in boiling olive oil. When the fillets +are a golden brown place on a sieve in +front of the fire with a soft paper beneath +them that they may drain. Serve +with fried parsley and quarters of +lemon.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Pommes de Terre, Loulou.</h4> +<p>—Chop raw +potatoes fine and place them in a saucepan +with butter and a seasoning of pepper, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_99">99</a></span>salt, paprika and a trace of nutmeg. +Cover and cook very slowly, agitating +them constantly. When they become +soft, beat well and arrange a layer on a +vegetable dish, sprinkle with Parmesan +cheese, put on another layer of potatoes, +then more cheese, and so on, having +the top layer of cheese. Pour over +all melted butter and bake about twenty +minutes in a slow oven.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Cailles Rôtis.</h4> +<p>—Tie a thin slice of bacon +over the breast of each quail, roast them +at a clear fire for fifteen minutes, basting +frequently. Lay them on crisp buttered +toast, sprinkle with minced <ins title="parsely">parsley</ins>, salt +and paprika, and serve with a rich wine +jelly on a separate dish.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Salade des Tomates et d'Artichauts.</h4> +<p>—Cut +the under part of boiled artichokes +into slices and take the same number of +slices of tomato. Dip both into a +dressing made of olive oil, vinegar, +tarragon, chervil, salt and pepper, with +a little mustard and arrange in a salad +bowl. Pour over the remainder of the +dressing and serve.</p> + +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_100">100</a></span></div> +<h4 class="run-in">Vol-au-Vent, Chantilly.</h4> +<p>—Roll a pound +of puff paste to about an eighth of an +inch in thickness and cut out about +thirty rounds with a fluted cutter, about +two and a half inches in diameter. Then +cut out the center of these with a cutter +about an inch across. Roll out the +paste taken from the centers and cut +out more rings in the same way. Brush +the rings over with egg, place one on top +of another, two by two, press together +so that they will stick, place on a baking +sheet, brush over with egg and bake in a +brisk oven. When almost done sprinkle +with sugar and allow to remain in the +oven till they are glazed and fully done. +Remove and place on a warmed platter +and fill with any sort of cream desired, +or jam or tart marmalade.</p> + + + +<div class="new-h3"> </div> +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_101">101</a></span></div> +<h3>XXII</h3> + + +<h4>MENU</h4> + + +<ul class="menu"> +<li>Potage Julienne</li> +<li>Homard Bordelaise</li> +<li>Canard à la Reine</li> +<li>Salade à la Russe</li> +<li>Café Bavaroise</li> +</ul> + + +<h4 class="run-in">Potage Julienne.</h4> +<p>—Cut carrots, onions, +leeks and turnips into thin slices or +strips of equal size with a head of celery. +Put all into two ounces of butter melted +in a saucepan and toss over a slow fire +for a few minutes. If desired other +vegetables in season such as cauliflower, +peas or asparagus may be added. Pour +clear chicken broth over the vegetables, +put in some pieces of cold chicken, +allow to come to a boil, then simmer till +the vegetables are tender and pour the +whole into the tureen with sippets of +toast.</p> + +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_102">102</a></span></div> +<h4 class="run-in">Homard Bordelaise.</h4> +<p>—Cut a small carrot +and an onion into fine pieces and +boil for five minutes in a wineglassful +of red wine. Now add the meat from +two lobsters, cut in small pieces, say, +about a pound and a half. Season with +a very little pepper, salt, and a trace +of nutmeg, adding, just before the +lobster is cooked, about half a pint of +velouté sauce. Stew well together and +serve at once.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Canard à la Reine.</h4> +<p>—Cut off one wing +of a duck and half the breast from the +same side, remove the skin, take out +the bone and fill the place with quenelle +forcemeat. Lard the breast and put it +into a braising pan over slices of leeks, +carrots and onions and a little thyme, +chervil, bayleaves and lemon peel. Add +sufficient stock to prevent burning, set +the pan on the fire and braise the duck, +then glaze it. Serve with a purée of +beans for garnish.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Salade à la Russe.</h4> +<p>—Cut cold chicken +and salmon into thin slices, arrange in +a salad dish and mix with finely cut +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_103">103</a></span>cooked asparagus heads, carrots and +cauliflower, a few capers and a little +caviare. The dressing is made with +three parts of oil and one of vinegar, a +little mustard and cayenne pepper and +a tablespoonful of minced onion. Pour +over the salad and stand on the ice till +served.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Café Bavaroise.</h4> +<p>—Grind half a pound of +green coffee, roast in a sugar boiler without +burning it or even browning and +soak a quart of milk with it for about an +hour. Now stir into a cupful of flour a +teaspoonful of castor sugar into which +has been dropped a little vanilla extract, +and a little salt. Stir this all in with +the strained coffee-flavored milk, bring +to a boil, remove from the fire and stir +in the yolks, then the whites of three +eggs, all beaten firm. Fill paper cases +with the mixture, bake, sprinkle castor +sugar over the tops and serve at once.</p> + + + +<div class="new-h3"> </div> +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_104">104</a></span></div> +<h3>XXIII</h3> + + +<h4>MENU</h4> + + +<ul class="menu"> +<li>Huitres à l'Américaine</li> +<li>Bœuf à l'Aurore</li> +<li>Pommes de Terre, Lyonnaise</li> +<li>Salade Française</li> +<li>Crème à la Russe</li> +</ul> + + +<h4 class="run-in">Huitres à l'Américaine.</h4> +<p>—Place in a +sauce bowl a heaped teaspoonful of +salt, three-quarters of a teaspoonful of +white pepper, a medium sized onion, +chopped, and a teaspoonful of minced +parsley. Mix lightly together along +with a teaspoonful of olive oil, six drops +of tobasco sauce, a little Worcestershire +sauce and a gill of vinegar. Put a teaspoonful +of this mixture on each raw +oyster just before taking to the table.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Bœuf à l'Aurore.</h4> +<p>—Season two steaks +of about three-quarters of a pound each +(any ordinary cut will do) with salt and +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_105">105</a></span>pepper, baste on either side with a little +oil and broil over a brisk fire for six +minutes. Place on a hot dish and serve +with the following sauce poured over: +Mix in a saucepan a small glass of mushroom +liquor with half a pint of bechamel +sauce, half an ounce of butter and two +or three tablespoonfuls of tomato sauce. +Place on the fire, stir for ten minutes +and just before removing add whole +mushrooms cut in squares.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Salade Française.</h4> +<p>—Chop fine a bunch +of parsley, two small onions and six +anchovies. Lay them in a bowl and +mix with salt and mustard to taste, +two tablespoonfuls of salad oil and a +gill of vinegar. Stir all well together +and then add, one at a time, some very +thin strips of cold roasted or boiled +meat, not more than three or four inches +long. Shake the slices well in the dressing. +Cover the bowl closely and allow +to stand for at least three hours. Serve +garnished with parsley.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Pommes de Terre, Lyonnaise.</h4> +<p>—Cut into +round slices eight boiled potatoes, lay +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_106">106</a></span>them in a frying pan with an ounce and +a half of butter and the slices of a partly +cooked onion. Season with salt and +pepper and cook till the potatoes become +well browned, tossing all the while. +Serve with chopped parsley sprinkled +over.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Crème à la Russe.</h4> +<p>—Put into a saucepan +a pint of milk, half a pound of lump +sugar, the grated rind of two lemons and +an ounce of gelatine, previously soaked +in water. Cook till the sugar dissolves +over a slow fire, then allow the mixture +to cool somewhat before stirring in the +yolks of two eggs, unbeaten. Place on +the fire to curdle. Strain, and when cool +add the juice of the two lemons and the +whites of the eggs beaten stiffly. Stir +all well together and pour into a wet +mould. Turn out when well set.</p> + + + +<div class="new-h3"> </div> +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_107">107</a></span></div> +<h3>XXIV</h3> + + +<h4>MENU</h4> + + +<ul class="menu"> +<li>Potage Napolitaine</li> +<li>Truites à la Monbarry</li> +<li>Croquettes de Pommes de Terre</li> +<li>Celeri-rave en Salade</li> +<li>Pouding aux Figues</li> +</ul> + + +<h4 class="run-in">Potage Napolitaine.</h4> +<p>—Boil in strong +bouillon small forcemeat balls made of +any left-over game or meat. Then soak +croutons in the same bouillon. Add the +forcemeat balls and serve.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Truites à la Monbarry.</h4> +<p>—Prepare several +trout and lay them in a pan with a +quarter pound of butter and some strong +spices. Allow to heat slowly in an open +oven and when the butter is entirely +melted, drop on the trout two well +beaten yolks of eggs. Grate cheese +over this and cover all with a quantity +of fine breadcrumbs. Brown lightly in +a hot oven and serve.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Croquettes de Pommes de Terre.</h4> +<p>—Boil +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_108">108</a></span>and drain about two and a half pounds +of potatoes. Add a generous quantity +of butter, yolks of two eggs, salt and +pepper and the white of the eggs beaten +to a snow. Beat the whole up briskly, +shape the mixture into balls and fry in a +pan.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Celeri-rave en Salade.</h4> +<p>—Trim carefully +a bunch of celery, leaving on as much of +the root as possible. Cut in half and +boil in salted water till tender. Then +trim into even sticks and season it very +piquantly with French mustard, a few +young onions, pepper, salt and finely +chopped parsley. Garnish with lettuce-leaves +and slices of beet.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Pouding aux Figues.</h4> +<p>—Mix in a large +bowl a cupful of breadcrumbs, half a +cup of farina, a pinch of salt, a cup of +suet, cut fine, a cup of powdered sugar, +a minced carrot and a cup and a half +of chopped figs. Grease a baking mould, +line it with whole figs, and empty the +mixture into it. Cook for four hours, +the pan standing in water. Serve hot +with a rum sauce.</p> + + + +<div class="new-h2"> </div> +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_109">109</a></span></div> +<h2 style="margin-bottom: 0;">LET US EAT FISH</h2> + +<p class="center" style="margin-bottom: 2em;">A FAMOUS FRENCH LUNCHEON +À L'AMÉRICAINE</p> + + +<p>Only in the Latin countries has fish +as an edible ever been fully appreciated +and, as is the case with most other things +gastronomic, it is in France that the +food possibilities of the denizens of the +water have been brought nearest perfection.</p> + +<p>Over here we have always seemed to +regard fish as useful chiefly for stocking +aquariums or for furnishing sport for +the vacationist, along with golf, tennis +and bowling. True, we have become +rather well acquainted with certain +sea foods, the oysters, Blue Points and +Cape Cods; we have a nodding acquaintance +with some of the clam clan, especially +the Rhode Island branch, and the +Little Necks, the blue bloods of the +family. And, of course, we are familiar +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_110">110</a></span>with the crustaceans, the lobsters and +the crabs.</p> + +<p>And we know, too, certain succulent +sea delicacies that come to us from Palm +Beach shores and California and Oregon +regions, tuna and halibut, bluefish and +salmon as it comes to us variously prepared +for the table. In short, we Americans +are fairly friendly with a number +of the aristocrats of the water, but on +analyzing the situation we come to +realize that as for knowing the “finny +tribe” as a whole well enough to get +complete gastronomic joy out of the +situation, it remains that it is only the +French people who are so blessed.</p> + +<p>Time and the hour and the high price +of meat, however, render it advisable, +even absolutely necessary, that we work +<em>all</em> our resources instead of only a part +of them, to economize whenever and +wherever we can, and the waters in our +midst and around us are surely one of +the most important resources not already +worked to the limit.</p> + +<p>Therefore, let us eat fish—but first +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_111">111</a></span>let us learn of the French about fish, +even as we have learned of them concerning +other foods, or as we have +learned fashions, for, verily, the turning +out of a proper fish dish for the table +has ever been regarded by the French +as no less an art than the creation of a +beautiful frock in one of their ateliers. +Moreover, their ways with fish are so +broadly inclusive that one may make +up an entire menu from one end to the +other, with only a cup of coffee needed +as a final fillip to make a perfect meal—and +all of fish.</p> + +<p>By way of furnishing inspiration to +our own appetites, herewith is a suggestion +for a fish luncheon, a favorite +menu of France, which its wealth and +fashion delighted to have set before it +in those good old days before the war. +Substitutes are given for any fish not +indigenous to American waters; otherwise +it is just as it would be served at one +of the Riviera restaurants, with the +exception, of course, that on the +Riviera or at any of the noted marine +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_112">112</a></span>restaurants, the visitor himself was permitted +to select the fish for each course +from among the different specimens +swimming in the reserves, altogether +unconscious of impending fate.</p> + +<p>No French restauranteur worthy the +name ever kept dead fish in stock, for +nothing deteriorates so quickly. There +is rarely over here the natural reserve +that the Riviera takes as a matter of +course, although there is, in some restaurants, +the tank of running water in +which the fish are kept in condition till +required.</p> + + + +<div class="new-h2"> </div> +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_113">113</a></span></div> +<h2>AN ALL FISH LUNCHEON</h2> + + +<h3>MENU</h3> + +<div id="fish-luncheon"> +<h4>Hors d'Œuvres. Little Necks or Blue Points.</h4> + +<p>(At Monte Carlo one would be served Clovisses.)</p> + +<h4>Lobster with Sauce Piquante.</h4> + +<p>(A substitute for the French langouste, which is +similar to a giant lobster minus the two long +nippers. Or there might be served abroad for +this course a little gelatinous fellow called supion, +or sea-hedgehog, or perhaps nonnots, smaller and +more delicate than our own whitefish.)</p> + +<h4>French Sardines Grilled, or Shad Planked.</h4> + +<p>(Shad is a most satisfactory substitute for the +French restauranteur's delight—loup de mer.)</p> + +<h4>Flounder, Sauce Meunière, or Shrimps.</h4> + +<p>(In Dieppe sole and certain crevettes are both +specialties and are served at this juncture, but +little sole is being received here and our own +flounder answers requirements admirably. Shrimps, +too, will please an American palate fully as well as +the <ins title="crevettes.">crevettes.)</ins></p> + +<h4>Bouillabaisse.</h4> + +<p>(This, for which we have no nearer synonym than +fish stew, which is a libel, is the pièce de résistance +of the luncheon. It is probably the most famous +fish dish of France.)</p> + +<h4>Salade de Poisson with Aioli.</h4> + +<p>(Aioli is a Mediterranean mayonnaise and “the +dressing,” the French say, “is the soul of the +<ins title="salad.”">salad.”)</ins></p> +</div> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_114">114</a></span> +It will be noted that there is no +dessert given with the above menu, +but the repast may be gracefully topped +off with crackers and cheese and café +noir. Tea is never served with fish, as +the tannin is said to render fish particularly +indigestible.</p> + + + +<div class="new-h3"> </div> +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_115">115</a></span></div> +<h3>TO PREPARE THE LUNCHEON</h3> + +<p>The French disdain the pepper, horseradish +and tomato mixtures with which +we are wont to dress raw oysters, preferring +to get the full coppery taste +peculiar to their home product, but the +American oyster, even these artists of +the culinary department agree, requires +a dressing to bring out the flavor. +As for the clovisse, which is, by the way, +first cousin to our clam, it is eaten from +the shell, each clovisse being opened +immediately before being disposed of.</p> + +<p>Lobster as here served to take the +place of the French langouste, tastes +much like deviled lobster. The sauce +piquante is made as follows: Into a +saucepan put a tablespoonful of finely +chopped onion with a little salt, grated +nutmeg, black pepper and an ounce of +butter. When this melts and blends +add a little chopped red pepper along +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_116">116</a></span>with three tablespoonfuls of vinegar +and a teaspoonful of mustard. Stir +together well, then mix in half an ounce +of flour and half a pint of fish stock. +Simmer for half an hour, skimming +occasionally and, finally add a chopped +pickled gherkin.</p> + +<p><b>Sauce Meunière</b>, served with the sole, +or, in this case with the flounder, is +made by adding a few shrimps and mussels, +minced, to a pint of white wine in a +saucepan, along with a cupful of minced +mushrooms, a teaspoonful of butter, +salt and pepper and three or four cloves. +Simmer for twenty minutes and pour +over the fish just before serving.</p> + +<p><b>Salade de Poisson, Aioli</b>, is made by taking +any cold fish, say salmon, with this +menu. It is flaked and marinaded in +oil and vinegar seasoned well with pepper +and salt. Allow to remain for an +hour or so, then remove and arrange +compactly in a salad bowl. The aioli, +the Mediterranean delicacy with which +it is served, is made by whipping two +eggs, four teaspoonfuls of olive oil, a +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_117">117</a></span>half teaspoonful of French mustard +and a half cupful of cream together +till stiff, in a bowl rubbed with garlic. +Heap this on the center of the fish.</p> + +<p>As for the <b>Bouillabaisse</b>, it is like our +own Welsh Rabbit in so far as hardly +any two persons make it alike. Here +are two recipes which gastronomic authorities +have accorded the meed of +highest praise:</p> + +<p>No. 1.—Cut into pieces and remove +the bones from three pounds of fish; +say one pound each of cod, halibut and +bluefish, though any fish of like nature +will do. To these add the cooked meat +of one lobster or two crabs, and six +shrimps and put all into a casserole in +half a pint or more of olive oil to cook, +adding one lemon, sliced, two tomatoes, +one onion, one sliced carrot, a bunch of +saffron, a bunch of parsley, a bayleaf +and a clove of garlic—or have the +casserole rubbed with the garlic. Cook +for ten minutes, stirring frequently, +then add one cup of soup stock and a +glass of wine or cider. Cook for fifteen +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_118">118</a></span>minutes longer, remove to a hot bowl, +line the casserole with slices of toast, +and pour back the bouillabaisse. Serve +at once.</p> + +<p>No. 2.—Place the pieces of fish to +any desired amount in a large saucepan, +add two or three sliced onions, one or +two sliced carrots, three shallots, two +cloves of garlic, a bunch of thyme and +parsley, three or four cloves, two bayleaves, +half a teaspoonful of capsicum, +a wine-glass of olive oil and salt and +pepper to taste. Pour over the above +mixture two quarts of water and boil +gently for half an hour, the pan covered. +Drain and lay on a hot dish. Then mix +a teaspoonful of saffron in the liquid, +pass through a strainer into a soup +tureen. Serve the soup with the fish +and a plate of croutons of fried bread or +sippets of toast.</p> + + + +<div class="new-h2"> </div> +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_119">119</a></span></div> +<h2>FISH À LA MARSEILLES</h2> + + +<p>The French have another fish dish +which, like bouillabaisse, is practically +a meal in itself and which in these +days should be better known to the +American table. It is a specialty in the +vicinity of Marseilles and made there, +of course, with fish peculiar to the home +waters, but M. Auguste Gay, Chef of +the Yale Club, New York, who, incidentally, +has probably given more attention +to the adaptation of French cookery +to American requirements than any +other chef, is authority for the statement +that the following recipe produces +an almost perfect substitute for the +French dish:</p> + +<p>Chop into fine bits a small sweet +Chile pepper and toss it about in a +saucepan over the fire with a third of a +cupful of olive oil or butter. When hot +add a cupful of okra and the same +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_120">120</a></span>amount of stewed fresh or canned tomatoes. +Cook fifteen minutes and add a +full cupful of cooked fresh fish—cod, +haddock, etc., and a half cupful of +flaked salt fish, mackerel, for instance. +Cover and cook for twenty minutes +longer and serve with water crackers.</p> + + + +<div class="new-h2"> </div> +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_121">121</a></span></div> +<h2>GENERAL CONSIDERATIONS</h2> + + +<p>One secret of the French cook's +superiority to the American in preparing +fish is that the former has almost a congenital +knowledge of his subject. To +him all fish is not just fish. He differentiates +sharply as to species, tempering +his treatment to varied requirements.</p> + +<p>Roughly, there are two classes of fish: +those which have dark flesh or flesh +with a pinkish tone which is streaked +with fat, and those which have white, +firm flesh and are the more digestible. +Best known in the first class are shad, +butterfish, bluefish, salmon, mackerel +and sturgeon, and in the second, cod, +halibut, flounder, trout, rock and sea +bass, pompano, weakfish and perch.</p> + +<p>One matter-of-course rule is that no +fish of whatever kind shall be allowed +to enter the kitchen unless it is perfectly +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_122">122</a></span>fresh. To be sure of this see that +the gills are bright and shining and the +flesh firm, not readily separating from +the bones. That settled, you have an +almost endless choice of ways of cooking.</p> + +<p>Fish may be boiled, broiled, fried, +baked, planked, creamed, steamed, +cooked en casserole, jellied or pickled, +but of all these ways none produces +quite the universally satisfactory results +with a sizable fish that planking +does, and planking is not more difficult +or expensive than other methods.</p> + +<p>All that is required in the way of +accoutrements is a half-inch-thick hardwood +board which is heated in advance +in the oven when planked fish is to +figure on the menu. Then having thoroughly +cleaned the fish, removed its +head and tail, split it up the back half +through the bone so that it will open out +flat, brush it with butter and season +with pepper and salt, place it skin-side +down on the board.</p> + +<p>Put it in the oven and when it is +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_123">123</a></span>done, which can be easily ascertained +by lifting a bit of the flesh, you, being +American, may garnish the board with +mashed and seasoned potatoes, set the +board back in the oven till the potatoes +are browned and serve. The French, on +taking the cooked fish from the oven, +merely brush it with a little oil or melted +butter, squeeze some lemon juice over, +sprinkle a few bits of parsley about, +and send the fish thus to the table.</p> + +<p>Small fish, such as perch, smelts, etc., +are best fried in deep fat or its substitute, +first being dipped in egg and rolled +in fine cracker or breadcrumbs, then +served with a Sauce Mousseline, mashed +potatoes or boiled new ones, and a crisp +salad.</p> + +<p>This Sauce Mousseline is made by +beating two eggs in a saucepan, adding +a cupful of top milk, butter the size of +a walnut and pepper and salt, then stirring +over the fire till it begins to thicken. +When of the proper consistency, add a +tablespoonful of lemon juice and it is +ready for the table.</p> + +<p style="margin-bottom: 120px;"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_124">124</a></span> +A tart sauce for boiled fish that is +much favored in the south of France +but which, if it has ever crossed the +water, has kept its arrival very quiet, +is quite simply made and will be much +liked as a decided change. To make it +dissolve a tablespoonful of powdered +mustard in a half cupful of fish stock +and add two tablespoonfuls of white +wine vinegar by preference, though +other vinegar will do. Let this come to +a boil, add two or three slices of lemon +and boil a few minutes longer. Take +from the fire and add two eggs that have +been beaten with a teaspoonful of water. +Season with salt and pepper and heat +again but do not allow to boil.</p> + + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Twenty-four Little French Dinners and +How to Cook and Serve Them, by Cora Moore + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 24 LITTLE FRENCH DINNERS *** + +***** This file should be named 29970-h.htm or 29970-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/2/9/9/7/29970/ + +Produced by Jana Srna and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was +produced from images generously made available by The +Internet Archive/American Libraries.) + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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