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+The Project Gutenberg EBook of Twenty-four Little French Dinners and How
+to Cook and Serve Them, by Cora Moore
+
+This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with
+almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or
+re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included
+with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org
+
+
+Title: Twenty-four Little French Dinners and How to Cook and Serve Them
+
+Author: Cora Moore
+
+Release Date: September 12, 2009 [EBook #29970]
+
+Language: English
+
+Character set encoding: UTF-8
+
+*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 24 LITTLE FRENCH DINNERS ***
+
+
+
+
+Produced by Jana Srna and the Online Distributed
+Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was
+produced from images generously made available by The
+Internet Archive/American Libraries.)
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+
+ [ Transcriber's Note:
+ Every effort has been made to replicate this text as faithfully as
+ possible, including inconsistencies in spelling and hyphenation;
+ changes (corrections of spelling and punctuation) made to the
+ original text are listed at the end of this file.
+ ]
+
+
+
+
+ TWENTY-FOUR LITTLE
+ FRENCH DINNERS
+ AND
+ How to Cook and Serve Them
+
+ BY
+
+ CORA MOORE
+
+ NEW YORK
+ E. P. DUTTON & COMPANY
+ 681 Fifth Avenue
+
+
+ Copyright 1919, by
+ E. P. DUTTON & COMPANY
+
+ All Rights Reserved
+
+ Printed in the United States of America
+
+
+
+
+PREFACE
+
+
+The Little Dinners of Paris are world-famous. No one can have sojourned
+in the fascinating capital in its normal days without having come under
+their spell. To Parisien and visitor alike they are accounted among the
+uniquely characteristic features of the city's routine life.
+
+Much of the interest that attaches to them is, of course, due to local
+atmosphere, to the associations that surround the quaint restaurants,
+half hidden in unexpected nooks and by-ways, to the fact that old
+Jacques "waits" in his shirtsleeves or that Grosse Marie serves you with
+a smile as expansive as her own proportions, or that it is Justin or
+François or "Old Monsoor," with his eternal grouch, who glides about the
+zinc counter.
+
+But there is also magic in the arrangement of the menus, in the
+combinations of food, in the very names of the confections and in the
+little Gallic touches that, simple though they are, transform
+commonplace dishes into gastronomic delights.
+
+There is inspiration in the art that enters into the production of a
+French dinner, in the perfect balance of every item from hors d'œuvre to
+café noir, in the ways with seasoning that work miracles with left-overs
+and preserve the daily routine of three meals a day from the deadly
+monotony of the American régime, in the garnishings that glorify the
+most insignificant concoctions into objects of appetising beauty and in
+the sauces that elevate indifferent dishes into the realm of creations
+and enable a French cook to turn out a dinner fit for capricious young
+gods from what an American cook wastes in preparing one.
+
+The very economy of the French is an art, and there is art in their
+economy. It is true that their dishes, as we have known them in this
+country, are expensive, even extravagant, but that is because they have
+been for the most part the creations of high-priced chefs. They who have
+made eating an avocation know that it is not necessary to dine
+expensively in order to dine well.
+
+ C. M.
+
+New York, May, 1919.
+
+
+
+
+CONTENTS
+
+
+ PAGE
+
+ Preface v
+
+ The Bugbear of American Cookery--Monotony 1
+
+ Flavor--Handmaid of Variety 9
+
+ True Trails toward Economy 15
+
+ The Appeal to the Eye 21
+
+ Sauces, Simple and Otherwise 25
+
+ Twenty-four Little French Dinners 33
+ (With Directions for Preparing)
+
+ Let Us Eat Fish! 109
+
+
+
+
+ TWENTY-FOUR LITTLE
+ FRENCH DINNERS
+ AND
+ How to Cook and Serve Them
+
+
+
+
+THE BUGBEAR OF AMERICAN COOKERY--MONOTONY
+
+
+It is as strange as it is true that with the supplies that have lately
+proved sufficient to feed a world to draw upon the chief trouble with
+American cookery is its monotony. The American cook has a wider variety
+of foods at his command than any other in the world, yet in the average
+home how rarely is it that the palate is surprised with a flavor that
+didn't have its turn on the corresponding day last week or tickled with
+a sauce that is in itself an inspiration and a delight, not a mere
+"gravy," liable to harden into lumps of grease when it cools.
+
+Most of this is simply the result of blindly following tradition.
+Daughter has accepted mother's precepts, regarding them even as the law
+of the Medes and the Persians, "which altereth not," and if it were not
+that increased prices and, lately, at least, "food regulations," have
+veritably compelled her toward a more wholesome simplicity, the United
+States would probably be what it was called half a generation ago, "a
+nation of dyspeptics." And we were a nation of dyspeptics because the
+great American mother of the latter end of the Nineteenth Century, in
+spite of all her unequaled qualities in every other direction, and in
+spite of all the encomiums she received in resounding prose or ecstatic
+verse for her prowess in the kitchen, was from the points of view of
+health, economy and wisdom the worst cook in the world.
+
+With prices as they are the American housewife cannot afford to use
+butter and eggs and flour with the prodigality that was a habit with her
+mother, but so limited is the average woman's knowledge of cookery that
+these restrictions merely mean more monotony than ever. It is partly to
+demonstrate that this state of things is unnecessary and that true food
+economy is not at all synonymous with "going without" that this book has
+been compiled.
+
+It is upon variety that the French cook confidently relies to make each
+dish of each meal not just something to eat because her family must have
+food, not merely a sop to the Cerberus-gnawings of hunger, but a delight
+to the eye, to the palate, to the stomach--truly a consummation devoutly
+to be wished for the American home table, and just as possible to attain
+as it is possible to procure from the grocer or the nearest pharmacist
+the ingredients by which these wonders are wrought.
+
+But the average American woman doesn't look beyond her own kitchen and
+her own traditional row of spice boxes for her flavorings. She has her
+"kitchen set," which ordinarily comprises a row of little receptacles
+labeled "pepper," "salt," "cloves," "allspice," "ginger," "cinnamon,"
+"nutmeg," and possibly one or two other spices or condiments--rarely
+more. With these and a bottle each of lemon extract and vanilla, she is
+satisfied that she is fully equipped as far as flavoring possibilities
+are concerned.
+
+If she has laid in a box of sage and one of mixed dressing with,
+perhaps, some paprika and thyme, she views her foresightedness with much
+complacency. She is supplied with savories.
+
+Then she goes right on sighing, "Oh, for a new meat, instead of the same
+old round of mutton, pork, beef and fish; fish, beef, mutton and pork,"
+disclaiming utterly any responsibility for the monotony that is
+undermining the family health and temper and, quite possibly, its
+morals.
+
+That is where the American housewife makes her primary and most
+important mistake. The French, on the other hand, know that there are,
+literally, hundreds of ways to vary every dish, however ordinary it may
+be in its primary state. That is their secret of success: unfailing
+variety coupled with economy.
+
+However, this is not to claim that the American palate would take kindly
+to all the French cooks' little delicacies, or that it could be
+cultivated to that degree that makes a Frenchman regard a perfectly
+balanced meal even as an inspired poem.
+
+Probably Americans, as a class, could never be induced to eat some of
+the little birds--the _mauviettes_, the _alouettes_, the sparrows baked
+in a pie, that so delight the Frenchman. Also, it is a question whether
+snails, even if it were possible to obtain the superior Burgundian, fat
+and juicy and cooked even as our own Oscar used to prepare them for
+certain Waldorf guests, would ever appeal to the American taste, as even
+the common hedgerow sort of snail does to the average Frenchman.
+
+It is not that the French dinners of Monte Carlo are necessarily so
+superior to American shore dinners, or that the little dinners of Paris
+are so infinitely to be preferred to those, say, of certain places in
+New Orleans, or that the coppery-tasting oysters of Havre are to be
+compared with those of our own Baltimore. There is no more to be said,
+probably, for the woodcock patés of old Montreuil, or the _rillettes_ of
+Tours, or the little pots of custard one gets at the foreign Montpelier,
+or the _vol-au-vent_, which is the pride and boast of the cities of
+Provence, than there is for grandmother's cookies such as have put
+Camden, Maine, on the map, or Lady Baltimore cakes, or the chicken pies
+one goes to northern New Hampshire to find in their glory, or the
+turkeys that, as much as the Green Mountains, make Vermont's fame.
+
+Still, there is no question but that the American palate would benefit
+much by being cultivated, not only in the interests of economy, but also
+with a view to the increase of gastronomic pleasure, for a taste attuned
+to many variations is as an ear sensitive to the nuances of sweet sounds
+or an eye trained to perceive delicate tones and tints. It is really a
+matter for regret that we, as a people, have not been as willing to
+learn from the French the art of cooking and eating as we have been to
+acquire from them knowledge of the art of dress. Until we widen our
+horizon sufficiently to do this, we have not even begun to develop all
+our food resources or to understand the first principles of true food
+economy--which is not at all synonymous with "going without."
+
+
+
+
+FLAVOR, HANDMAID OF VARIETY
+
+
+It is because he has a multitude of seasonings at his command and knows
+how to use them that the French cook is enabled not only to send to the
+table an infinite variety of dishes, but, at the same time, to practice
+economies that were otherwise impossible. The American buys an expensive
+cut of meat and, as is right in such a case, treats it as plainly and
+simply as possible. The Frenchman buys meat of a much lower quality, but
+so embellishes it that when it comes to the table it is superior, or, at
+least, equal to that which costs much more.
+
+It may be objected that this is no real economy, because by the time the
+French cook has sauced and spiced his cheap cut in order to make it
+palatable, the cost is as great, if not greater than it would have been
+had he paid more for his meat in the first place. This would be true
+enough according to the average American's method of procedure. But it
+is to be remembered that the French cook has already in his kitchen the
+cooking vinegars, the spices, the dried herbs, the extracts, that in
+very small amounts--a dash or a few leaves--are used at a time; also,
+that in a great number of cases, gravies and sauces are made from the
+by-products of the main dishes--those by-products that in the American
+kitchen usually go down the sink-drain or into the garbage pail.
+
+Take a peep into the typical French cupboard. There you will find from
+twenty-five to thirty liquid seasonings such as anchovy extract, tobasco
+sauce, meat extracts, mushroom catsup, tomato paste, chutney, various
+vinegars, Worcestershire and many another flavoring designed to give a
+tang and a zest even to the most unpromising dish, if used aright. There
+you will find, too, fifty or more dry seasonings, including anise,
+basil, saffron, savoury, clove or garlic, cassia buds, bay leaf, ginger
+root, pepper-corns, marjoram, mint, thyme, capers and so on.
+
+Herein lie the "secrets" of French cookery which are, in truth, not
+secrets at all, but merely the application of common sense to the
+cuisine. The French have never allowed their taste to be restricted by
+prejudice, so they hail a new flavor with delight rather than
+registering an instinctive dislike because it is not familiar. With a
+little applied education, Americans can bring the charm of the French
+table to their own homes rather than when they are, as they say, tired
+of the same old round of "eats," seeking out a nondescript table d'hôte
+restaurant and eagerly consuming what is set before them, grateful for a
+change.
+
+But don't harden your heart against French cookery merely because you
+have sampled it, as you fondly think, at one or another of the
+"red-inkeries" of New York or any other city. For the most part the
+"French" restaurants of the land are in reality not French at all, but
+Italian for the most part, and whatever Gallic flavor the remainder ever
+possessed has well-nigh vanished. There may be exceptions but, if there
+are, their patrons carefully guard the secret.
+
+But to return to our subject: It is the French cook's knowledge of the
+subtleties, the nuances of seasoning that stands him in good stead. The
+American woman who has essayed to use some spice or savory unfamiliar to
+her and has turned out a dish which her family has declared "tasted like
+medicine" is, naturally enough, discouraged from wandering after that
+particular strange god again. The truth is that she has overdone the
+seasoning. She doesn't want to be parsimonious, which is just what the
+French cook is with his flavors, only he, more scientifically, calls it
+using good judgment. If he uses garlic in a salad, it doesn't
+necessarily follow that the entire household must take on the
+atmosphere of an Italian barber shop, for he uses garlic or onion, not
+to give their flavor to a dish, but to bring out the flavors of the
+vegetables with which they are used.
+
+Vanilla and lemon have an almost universal appeal to the palate, and
+knowing this, the American cook, like the generation before her, has
+always seasoned her rice puddings, for instance, with one or the other,
+just as her apple sauce has invariably been flavored with lemon or
+nutmeg, her bread pudding with vanilla, and so all along her restricted
+line.
+
+The French cook holds no brief against vanilla, and sometimes he flavors
+his rice pudding with it, but he so guides matters that the very sight
+or mention of rice pudding does not bring the thought of vanilla to the
+mind, for with him it may be flavored with pistache or rose or have a
+geranium leaf baked in it, giving a delightful, indescribable flavor. An
+ordinary bread pudding becomes veritably a queen of puddings as,
+indeed, it is called, merely by having a layer of jam through its center
+and a simple icing spread over the top. Ordinary pea soup exhibits
+chameleon-like possibilities merely through the addition of a little
+celery-root, a dash of curry or the admixture of a few spoonfuls of
+minced spinach, and tomato soup has for most an appeal that even this
+favorite of soups never had before when just the right amount of thyme
+is added while it simmers, along with, perhaps a bayleaf.
+
+In the recipes appended to the little dinners in this book a great many
+of the French cooks' materials and methods of procedure are set forth.
+But if the ordinarily experimental American housewife has the flavorings
+on hand, she will doubtless herself contrive many an alluring dish of
+her own. Variety is said to be the spice of life. However that may be,
+the spices and their friends, the herbs, certainly make for variety in
+that important function of life, the dinner table.
+
+
+
+
+TRUE TRAILS TOWARD ECONOMY
+
+
+In the first place, no trail toward economy in conducting the cuisine of
+a household lies through the delicatessen store or the "fancy" grocery.
+It is an unflattering comment on the spirit of thrift of American
+housewives that the delicatessen store has settled down to such a
+flourishing existence, particularly in Eastern cities. Any woman who
+possesses a stove and a kitchen of her own should be ashamed to admit
+the laziness that more than a semi-occasional visit to these "delicate
+eating" places predicates. There are few things to be had in them that
+she shouldn't be able to make better at home and at a cost that is but a
+fraction of what she has to pay for the usually inferior, impersonal
+messes that come ready-made.
+
+If the housewife has read some of the very excellent instructions that
+were printed to help her conduct her household adequately amid the
+necessary limitations of wartime, she already knows that there is
+absolutely no excuse for ever throwing away a crust or crumb of bread.
+As for that, neither is there any excuse for ever disposing of what is
+left of the morning cereal except to the advantage of some later made
+dish, or of consigning meat scraps or bits of fat or even bones to the
+garbage pail. It is not only that, in the interests of economy, she
+should use them; it is rather that if she is a good cook she will be
+very glad to have them to use.
+
+Stale bread and breadcrumbs are the bases of a score of the most
+delicious puddings on the French cook's card; cooked cereal is one of
+the best thickenings for soups and gravies, as well as being far more
+wholesome than flour for this purpose; meat scraps, trimmings and bones
+should go into the stock pot. When a soup made of these is served as the
+introductory course at dinner it will be found that the family will be
+fully satisfied with much less meat, and it is in the lessening
+dependence of Americans on meat that will make for the greatest item in
+economy.
+
+A French cook of parts would tear his hair if he could see how fats and
+drippings from meats are thrown away in many an American kitchen. They
+are poured into the sink till the drain pipes clog and, to complete the
+little serial of extravagance, the plumber has to be called. The French
+cook knows that this is the finest grease for frying in the world and
+that its use would save many a pound of butter. He strains it all
+carefully and keeps the different sorts in labelled jars or crocks. He
+knows by experience what particular fats give the best flavors to
+certain things, and he knows that vegetables, fish, eggs, pancakes and
+what not are far better fried in these natural fats. Who that ever ate
+an egg fried in bacon drippings will ever want one cooked in butter,
+even at a dollar a pound!
+
+One will not find the delicatessen flourishing in France--one will not
+find it at all--and the fancy grocery, above mentioned, is another
+pitfall for the American housewife. She likes the sight of food done up
+in fancy containers, in glass, perhaps, and buys them, not realizing
+that she is paying a large price for perfectly unnecessary and totally
+unnourishing "pretties." If she is fearful of the handling some loose
+food stuffs may be subjected to in the stores, why does she not practice
+the most practical economy, go to the fountain-head of supplies in the
+city, the large market, and buy in quantity, so far as she can? A few
+ounces of bacon, already sliced, and sealed in a glass dish are, indeed,
+appetising even in their raw state, while a side of bacon is not, unless
+looked upon through the eyes of imagination, yet the latter method of
+purchasing this commodity is two or three hundred per cent cheaper, and
+when it arrives at the breakfast table it will be found every bit as
+appealing to a happy morning appetite.
+
+Any consideration of economy in the cuisine must include the meat
+problem. Meat is the most expensive item on the menu and the true
+solution of the question is not only to conserve all the uses of it but
+to eat much less. That would make not only for economy, but for better
+health as well.
+
+It has been estimated that 186 pounds of dressed meat is--or was prior
+to the war--the yearly average of consumption for every American; the
+Englishman being a good second with his 120 pounds, while the Frenchman
+remained perfectly contented and healthy with 79 pounds, the Italian
+with 72 pounds, and the Swiss, anything but a nation of invalids,
+managed very well on 60 pounds per person.
+
+This is no plea for vegetarianism, though it may be said in passing for
+the benefit of those who think that good red blood and hardy muscle are
+to be obtained only by absorbing the red blood and muscle of the beasts
+of the field, that there is as much, if not more, of this building
+power in the beans, the peas, the lentils that we regard too often as
+mere secondary foods.
+
+Most of all the American should take advantage of the great stores of
+fish which are equally as nourishing as meat and may easily be made as
+appetising with simple sauces that French cookery will teach us. Fish
+are cheap; at least, many neglected kinds are; they are easy to cook and
+they are one of the best foods in the world.
+
+
+
+
+THE APPEAL TO THE EYE
+
+
+No one, least of all the French cook, calculates to feast the eye at the
+expense of the sense of taste, yet it is his experience after long years
+that good digestion is much more likely to wait upon the appetite that
+has been stirred to a preliminary enthusiasm by the attractive
+appearance of a dish. So they serve little fritters of vegetables, dabs
+of jelly, slices of hard boiled eggs, pickles, parsley, cress and
+nasturtiums with meats, put sprigs of fresh green in their gravies,
+decorate desserts with nut-meats, flowers and fruits, and in so doing
+add a bit to the gayety of the table, satisfied that the trifling extra
+expense, time and energy incurred is more than compensated for in the
+pleasure the results afford. A fair trial of this pleasant idiosyncrasy
+of the French is convincing that the appearance of a dish has more
+bearing on the relish of a meal than we over here have fully realized.
+
+They are particular, however, to be consistent in the use of
+garnishings. Flowers and fruits are reserved for sweet dishes, except in
+the case of nasturtiums, which they regard as much a vegetable as a
+flower and use freely with meats.
+
+A stew or a creamed dish is merely a more or less indifferent something
+to eat when it is dished up any old way and set upon the table. But if
+it is heaped daintily on a pretty platter, surrounded by a ring of brown
+mashed potato, its sides decorated by dainty shapes of toasted bread,
+perhaps buttered and sprinkled with minced parsley, it has become
+something to awaken the slumbering or indifferent appetite and at
+practically no extra expense of time or money.
+
+If the yolks of two hard boiled eggs are minced and mixed with part of
+the raw white of one, the paste then formed into balls like marbles and
+dropped into boiling water, one has little yellow spheres to lend an
+enlivening color note to clear soups. Two or three of these dropped into
+each plate just before serving makes a pleasing change from the usual
+croutons.
+
+Sprigs of fresh chickory make the daintiest of garnishes for cold meats,
+and a few of the tender green stalks will add to the appearance of
+practically any salad. As for water-cress and pepper-grass and, of
+course, parsley, minced and otherwise, no French chef would think of
+preparing a meal without a plentiful supply of them on hand.
+
+It isn't essential that every dish should be turned into an elaborate
+work of art, as if it were to be entered at the annual exhibition of the
+Société des Chefs de Cuisine, but neither is there any reason, even with
+modest means at command, for giving cause for that old slogan of the
+great American dinner table: "It tastes better than it looks."
+
+
+
+
+SAUCES, SIMPLE AND OTHERWISE
+
+
+Brillat-Savarin, who would be remembered as a wit had he not been even
+more brilliant as a chef, paid his respects to the English by saying
+they were a nation of a hundred religions and only one sauce. Being a
+true Frenchman he believed a reversal of the numbers better for the
+soul. It is certainly better for the appetite.
+
+To be sure the proper mental sauce for a good dinner is wit, and the
+best physical one, hunger, but as we all of us have more or less of an
+Epicurean strain in us and do not eat solely to satisfy bodily needs, it
+is well that the American cook who essays to bring variety to her board
+should have some knowledge of those Gallic creations, the sauces, by
+which she is enabled to transform plain dishes into seemingly
+pretentious ones, even though she never attain that sauce that Balzac
+knew, "in which a mother might unsuspectingly eat her own child."
+
+In the first place every French chef keeps three kinds of what he calls
+_roux_ on hand, ready for making meat and fish sauces. These are made by
+cooking together eight ounces of butter and nine ounces of flour. That
+intended for use with brown meats is stirred together till it becomes a
+medium brown in shade; white _roux_ is cooked only sufficiently to
+banish the raw taste and not allowed to color, while pale _roux_ is kept
+over the fire just long enough to attain a deep cream color. These are
+mixed with milk, soup stock, water or gravy as the case may be when a
+sauce for fish, meat or vegetables is needed.
+
+For instance, to make _Sauce à la Crème_, for use with white entrées,
+take two tablespoonfuls of the white _roux_ in a saucepan with a cup of
+milk and a tablespoonful each of finely chopped parsley, shallots and
+chives. Boil fifteen minutes, pass through a colander into another
+saucepan, add a small lump of butter, more finely chopped parsley and
+salt and pepper. Mix well with a wooden spoon and it is ready for the
+table.
+
+To make a favorite _Sauce Piquante_, cut two onions into slices, also a
+carrot and two shallots and put into a saucepan with a scant
+tablespoonful of butter. While heating over a moderate fire, add a sprig
+of thyme, a tablespoonful of minced parsley, a bayleaf and two or three
+cloves. When the onions are golden brown add a tablespoonful of flour, a
+little plain stock and a tablespoonful of vinegar. Boil again, pass
+through a sieve and season with salt and pepper.
+
+A simple sauce is that _Maître d'Hôtel_, which is rarely made at home
+though so generally liked. Put a lump of butter into a small saucepan
+over a moderate fire and add to it chopped parsley and chives, or
+parsley alone. Season with salt and pepper and a little lemon juice and
+while it is sizzling pour over the hot steak or fish.
+
+_Sauce d'Anchois_, than which there isn't anything better with baked
+fish, is also easy to make. Take three or four anchovies and mash them
+up well with two tablespoonfuls of butter. Now make about a pint of
+brown sauce with brown _roux_ and milk, and stir the anchovy butter into
+it. Just before taking from the fire add the juice of half a lemon or
+more, according to taste.
+
+_Sauce Bearnaise_ was a favorite of Henry of Navarre, and it is
+excellent with steaks, chops and, particularly, roast beef. To make it
+beat the yolks of three or four eggs in a saucepan, add a tablespoonful
+of butter and a little salt. Stir over a slow fire till the eggs begin
+to thicken, then remove and stir in two more tablespoonfuls of butter,
+stirring till the butter is dissolved. Season with chopped fine herbs
+and parsley and pour in a teaspoonful of French vinegar.
+
+In many parts of France they have a favorite dressing for boiled fish
+called _Sauce Ravigote_. To make it mix half a pint of stock in a
+saucepan with a small amount of white wine or cider, then chop fine
+herbs such as chervil, tarragon, chives and parsley, or whatever other
+herbs are in season, to the amount of about three tablespoonfuls, and
+mix with the stock, adding salt and pepper. Stew gently for about twenty
+minutes, then blend a tablespoonful each of flour and butter, stir into
+the sauce and continue to stir till thick. Just before serving squeeze
+in the juice of half a lemon.
+
+The word "_Ravigote_" means, literally, "pick me up," and it is applied
+to minced tarragon, chervil, chives and parsley, the herbs being kept
+separate and served with salad on four little saucers. _Ravigote_
+butter, made by kneading butter with the four herbs and adding pepper,
+salt and lemon juice, spread between thin slices of bread, makes
+delicious sandwiches.
+
+To make the very generally liked _Sauce Blanquette_, which is used to
+raise cold meats to the dignity of a fricassée, take about four ounces
+of pale _roux_, thin slightly with boiling water added by degrees, then
+put in a bunch of sweet herbs, cooked button mushrooms and small onions
+and pepper and salt to taste. Put in whatever cold meat you have, cook
+till it is well heated and serve.
+
+The following is called _Sauce d'Havre_, and through the use of it it
+will be discovered that the taste of curry is an agreeable one in many
+another case than in connection with the veal and rice arrangement to
+which most American cooks restrict it. Peel and slice four onions and
+two apples and place in a stewpan with four ounces of butter, six
+peppercorns, a sprig of thyme, two bayleaves and a blade of mace. When
+the onions have become slightly brown over the moderate fire, stir in a
+mixture of two tablespoonfuls of flour and the same amount of curry
+powder, shortly afterward adding six gills of white stock and half a
+pint of white sauce. Season with salt and half a teaspoonful of moist
+sugar, boil for a quarter of an hour, adding more white stock if
+necessary, and stirring constantly. Put through a strainer into another
+saucepan, boil up again, skim, and use when required.
+
+Fricasseed chicken takes on a new glory when it is prepared with _Sauce
+Lyons_. This is made by stirring gradually three well-beaten eggs into
+half a pint of plain white sauce, then placing the mixture in a jar and
+standing in boiling water till the sauce thickens. Just prior to pouring
+over the chicken add the strained juice of half a lemon.
+
+
+
+
+TWENTY-FOUR LITTLE FRENCH DINNERS
+
+
+
+
+I
+
+
+MENU
+
+ Potage à la Duchesse
+ Cabillaud à la Bechamel
+ Pommes de Terre, Genevoise
+ Salade Celeri
+ Pouding à la Vanille
+
+
+=Potage à la Duchesse.=--Butter a baking sheet, cover with four ounces
+of chou paste, cook in the oven for six minutes, then cover the paste
+with forcemeat in small lumps, a little distance apart. Cut the paste
+into twelve equal sized pieces, each piece holding a lump of the
+forcemeat, place in a tureen, pour over a quart of piping hot consommé
+and serve.
+
+=Cabillaud à la Bechamel.=--Mix an ounce of flour with an ounce and a
+half of butter melted in a saucepan, then gradually add a pint of milk
+which has been allowed previously to simmer with a minced onion and
+carrot in it, also a bunch of sweet herbs, two or three cloves, a
+grating of nutmeg and pepper and salt. Bring to a boil, add two or three
+tablespoonfuls of cream, strain and put back into the saucepan. Now put
+in two or three pounds of cod, previously boiled and flaked, being
+thoroughly free from skin and bones. Shake all together very gently and
+when all is thoroughly hot, turn out onto a silver dish and garnish with
+sliced hard-boiled eggs.
+
+=Pommes de Terre, Genevoise.=--Shred four medium sized boiled potatoes,
+season with a little salt and pepper. Butter lightly half a dozen
+tartlet moulds, cover the bottoms with grated Parmesan cheese, arrange
+in each a layer of potatoes, then another sprinkling of cheese, and so
+on till the moulds are filled. Put a little butter on top. Place on a
+very hot stove or in a very hot oven for fifteen minutes to half an
+hour. Serve on a hot dish in the moulds.
+
+=Salade Celeri.=--Trim two or three heads of celery, cut into short
+shreds, wash thoroughly in cold water and drain. Place in a salad bowl,
+season with a little salt, a very little pepper and one or two
+tablespoonfuls each of oil and vinegar. Add several sprigs of
+pepper-grass and serve at once.
+
+=Pouding à la Vanille.=--Place a vanilla bean in a mortar together with
+half a pound of sugar and pound well together and sift. Separate the
+whites from the yolks of three eggs, beat the yolks well, stir them in
+with a pint of cream and mix in with the vanilla sugar. Whisk the whites
+of the eggs to a stiff froth and mix lightly in with the other
+ingredients. Butter a pudding mould, pour in the mixture and cover with
+a sheet of oiled paper. Stand the mould in a saucepan of boiling water
+and steam the pudding for half an hour. In the meantime prepare the
+following sauce: Pour a breakfast cupful of canned or fresh pineapple
+juice into a lined pan with the juice of a lemon. Put this on the fire
+till it boils, then pour it over a tablespoonful of arrowroot, stirring
+all the time. Return the sauce to the saucepan and stir till it thickens
+over the fire. When the pudding is cooked, turn it out onto a hot dish,
+strain the sauce over it and serve. Be careful that no water enters the
+mould containing the pudding while it is cooking, or it will be
+spoiled.
+
+
+
+
+II
+
+
+MENU
+
+ Consommé à la Napolitaine
+ Cabillaud à la Financière
+ Pommes de Terre en Rubans
+ Beignets à la Printemps
+ Choufleur au Gratin
+ Bavaroise au Café
+
+
+=Consommé à la Napolitaine.=--Place in a saucepan with a lump of butter
+equal quantities of finely minced carrots, turnips, a head of lettuce
+and one of endive with a little chervil. Add a quart of the water in
+which the cauliflower in this dinner was cooked, pepper and salt, and
+simmer for an hour. Just before serving stir in the beaten yolk of an
+egg and half a pint of milk.
+
+=Cabillaud à la Financière.=--Cook a piece of cod weighing three pounds
+in salted water for twenty minutes, drain a place on a serving platter
+covered with the following sauce: Put two glasses of Madeira wine and a
+small piece of meat glaze in a saucepan with a pint of Spanish sauce and
+a gill each of essence of mushrooms and truffles. Boil till it coats the
+spoon.
+
+=Pommes de Terre en Rubans.=--Take large, smooth, pared potatoes and cut
+round and round in spirals about an eighth of an inch thick. Keep
+covered with a damp napkin till all are cut, place in a frying basket
+and fry in very hot fat till a light straw color. Sprinkle freely with
+salt and serve immediately.
+
+=Beignets à la Printemps.=--Make a sauce of two ounces of butter, four
+ounces of flour, a tablespoonful of brandy, a pinch of salt, sufficient
+water to make a creamy paste. Cook and, removing from the stove, work in
+the whites of two eggs beaten to a stiff froth. Cut into pieces any
+fruit desired, dip them in the batter and fry in butter to a light
+golden brown. Drain well, place in a serving dish, sprinkle well with
+powdered sugar and serve. If the fruit is not fully ripe, parboil in
+syrup before using.
+
+=Choufleur au Gratin.=--Soak a cauliflower in water with plenty of salt,
+then boil in plenty of salted water for fifteen minutes. Remove and take
+away all the green leaves, lay it on a flat buttered dish, previously
+rubbed with an onion, and pour over it a sauce made as follows: Melt an
+ounce and a half of butter in a saucepan, add a dessertspoonful of
+flour, mix and add a cup of milk. Stir till it thickens, add pepper and
+salt and add two or three tablespoonfuls of grated Parmesan cheese. Mix
+well and after pouring over the cauliflower sprinkle all over with
+breadcrumbs and place the dish in the oven till nicely browned.
+
+=Bavaroise au Café.=--Mix the beaten yolks of two eggs with a pint of
+milk and a cup of very strong black coffee. Bring to a boil in a
+saucepan, remove from the fire and allow to get cold, stirring
+occasionally. Add the yolks of two more eggs beaten stiff with two
+ounces of sugar. Mix well and then add the stiffly beaten whites of the
+four eggs along with half an ounce of dissolved gelatin. Pour into a
+mould and turn out when set.
+
+
+
+
+III
+
+
+MENU
+
+ Filet de Sole à la Provençal
+ Poulet Sauté à l'Estragon
+ Artichauts à la Barigoule
+ Petit Petac
+ Soufflé Georgette
+
+
+=Filets des Soles à la Provençal.=--Sprinkle the filets with pepper and
+salt and a little allspice and fry in salad oil with a finely chopped
+onion and a little chopped parsley. Serve with a slice of lemon on each
+filet.
+
+=Poulet Sauté à l'Estragon.=--Sprinkle the pieces of a cut up raw
+chicken with pepper and salt and cook in a saucepan with a little oil.
+Make a gravy of a cupful of clear stock in which tarragon stalks have
+been boiled for an hour, dish up the fowl on a hot platter, pour over
+the sauce, straining it, and sprinkle on top tarragon leaves blanched
+and coarsely chopped.
+
+=Artichauts à la Barigoule.=--Cut off the tops and leaves of the
+artichokes and boil the bottoms in plenty of slightly salted water till
+tender. Scoop out the fibrous interior. Grate some cooked bacon into a
+saucepan with a gill of fine herbs and a cupful of broth. Cook for five
+minutes. Put a little of this mixture in each artichoke, cover the
+opening with a slice of lemon and bake in a sauté-pan in the oven for
+twenty minutes.
+
+=Petit Petac.=--Peel tiny new potatoes and sauté in oil till a golden
+brown. Sprinkle with chopped parsley and serve.
+
+=Soufflé Georgette.=--Grate a half-dozen stale macaroons into a half-cup
+of brandy, add a pint of cream and two teaspoonfuls of dissolved
+gelatine. Whip in a dozen maraschino cherries and turn into a mould to
+harden. Serve with macaroons dipped into the liquid that comes around
+the maraschino cherries. A custard may be used in this recipe instead of
+the cream.
+
+
+
+
+IV
+
+
+MENU
+
+ Potage au Riz
+ Rougets en Papillotes
+ Veau à la Suzette
+ Demi tasse
+
+
+=Potage au Riz.=--Put half a pound of well-washed rice into a saucepan
+with two quarts of vegetable stock and boil till tender. When the rice
+is cooked move the saucepan to the side of the fire and mix in a cupful
+of stewed tomatoes and an ounce and a half of butter. Serve with sippets
+of toast or croutons that have been fried in butter.
+
+=Rougets en Papillotes.=--This recipe is for mullets, but any small,
+plump fish may be used. Make a paper case for each fish with a sheet of
+well-oiled notepaper and put the cases into the oven for a few minutes
+to harden. Sprinkle the under sides of the fish with pepper and salt
+and lay them in their cases with a small piece of butter under and over
+each. Place the cases in a baking-dish and cook for about twenty minutes
+in the oven, or more if the fish are otherwise than small. Sprinkle well
+with lemon juice just before serving.
+
+=Veau à la Suzette.=--Trim saddle of veal neatly and put it into a
+saucepan with a good sized piece of butter. Turn it constantly on the
+fire till it is a rich golden color all over, then put it onto a dish
+and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Add more butter to the gravy in the
+saucepan and put in raw potatoes cut up in sections like oranges. Cover
+the saucepan and cook, shaking frequently, till the potatoes have a good
+color. Add an onion, finely minced, and when it is browned, a clove of
+garlic, minced very fine; next put in a tablespoonful of flour followed,
+when the flour is brown, by about two cupfuls of stock. Stir well and
+put back the meat and any juice that may have oozed from it. Lastly add
+a bouquet of herbs, simmer for an hour at least and serve the meat
+surrounded by the potatoes with the sauce poured over the whole.
+
+
+
+
+V
+
+
+MENU
+
+ Potage à l'Américaine
+ Filet d'Eglefin
+ Gigot de Mouton aux Épinards
+ Chou de Mer au Fromage
+ Petites Crèmes au Chocolat
+
+
+=Potage à l'Américaine.=--Parboil a medium sized cauliflower in salted
+water, change the water and boil till done. Drain well and press through
+a sieve. Dilute with consommé or broth. Boil a few minutes more,
+stirring well. Beat up in a basin the yolk of an egg with three
+tablespoonfuls of cream, add this to a few tablespoonfuls of the
+cauliflower mixture, then, taking the saucepan containing the soup from
+the fire, add the egg and cream mixture and stir together. Add half an
+ounce of butter and serve with croutons.
+
+=Filet d'Eglefin.=--Cut a haddock into fillets, trimming into pieces
+about six inches long. Dip them in well beaten egg and then into sifted
+breadcrumbs and plunge into deep, well-boiling fat, frying to a rich
+color, turning occasionally to cook both sides evenly. Remove, drain,
+put on a cloth spread over a hot dish and serve with a simple white
+sauce.
+
+=Gigot de Mouton aux Épinards.=--Roast a small leg of mutton, putting
+some salt and a small quantity of water at the bottom of the tin. When
+half cooked, remove the meat and carefully skim the gravy of all fat.
+Return the mutton to the tin, pour gravy over it and surround it with
+potatoes cut to the size of walnuts. Put back in the oven, letting the
+potatoes cook in the juice of the meat. Meanwhile cook about three
+pounds of spinach, drain, squeeze out all water and pass through a
+sieve. Return to a saucepan in which about two ounces of butter has been
+heated and season with pepper and salt. Add a tablespoonful of gravy
+from the mutton and allow the spinach to simmer till the meat is done.
+Then pile the spinach with the potatoes about the meat and serve, having
+the gravy in a sauceboat.
+
+=Chou de Mer au Fromage.=--Carefully wash sea-kale to remove grit,
+remove any black parts from the roots and tie up the shoots in small
+bundles. Cook in boiling salted water for twenty minutes, drain and keep
+hot. Mix on the fire an ounce of butter and a tablespoonful of flour,
+moisten with half a cup of water in which the kale was cooked, bring to
+a boil and mix in two or three tablespoonfuls of grated Parmesan cheese.
+Take from the fire and add the beaten yolk of an egg. Arrange the kale
+on a hot dish, pour the sauce over and serve immediately.
+
+=Petites Crèmes au Chocolat.=--Mix two tablespoonfuls of chocolate or
+cocoa in a cup of boiling milk and sweeten to taste. When nearly cold
+add to this the yolks of two eggs, well beaten, and a gill of heavy
+cream. Mix thoroughly and strain into china cases. Place these in a
+large shallow stewpan containing just sufficient water to reach half way
+up on the cases. Let steam for twenty minutes, when the custard ought to
+be firm. The water should be boiling when the cases are first put in,
+but afterwards may simmer. Put the cases on ice, and serve as cold as
+possible with little sponge cakes or lady fingers.
+
+
+
+
+VI
+
+
+MENU
+
+ Potage purée de Pois Secs
+ Saumon à la Hollandaise
+ Pommes de Terre, Barigoule
+ Haricots verts au riz tomate
+
+
+=Potage Purée de Pois Secs.=--Boil a pint of green peas in three pints
+of water with a piece of fat ham or bacon, two carrots, an onion, a
+leek, a bayleaf, some parsley, pepper and salt. Allow to simmer two or
+three hours, stirring occasionally. Pass the peas and onions through a
+hair sieve and add the strained liquor. Return to the saucepan, boil up,
+add some whole cooked peas with a little mint and serve.
+
+=Saumon à la Hollandaise.=--Cut a piece of salmon from the middle of the
+fish, cover in the kettle with cold water and plenty of salt. Bring
+slowly to a boil, removing scum, and allow to simmer till the fish is
+done. Drain thoroughly and serve with the following sauce in a boat:
+Take three ounces of butter, the yolks of two eggs and put them in a
+double boiler over the fire, stirring briskly till the butter is
+dissolved. Mix in a scant ounce of flour, stir well and add the juice of
+a lemon, half a pint of milk, a little grated nutmeg and pepper and
+salt. Stir constantly till the sauce thickens to the consistency of a
+custard.
+
+=Pommes de Terre, Barigoule.=--Place ten potatoes in a saucepan with
+enough broth to cover them and boil slowly till done. Drain, taking care
+not to break them. Put a teacupful of olive oil into a deep frying pan,
+heat, put in the potatoes, tossing them till they are browned all over
+lightly. Place on a dish and sprinkle with salt, pepper and vinegar.
+Serve piping hot.
+
+=Haricots verts au riz tomate.=--Boil rice carefully so that every grain
+will be separate, toss it in a little butter and moisten with tomato
+sauce and add the yolk of an egg, well beaten and stirred in, and a
+little Parmesan cheese. Make a border of the rice on a dish and pile in
+the center some French beans plainly boiled and tossed in a little
+butter with some pepper and salt.
+
+
+
+
+VII
+
+
+MENU
+
+ Potage Velouté
+ Brochet à la Tartare
+ Biftecks sautés aux Olives
+ Pommes de Terre à la Lyonnaise
+ Épinards au Gratin
+ Beignets Soufflés
+
+
+=Potage Velouté.=--Boil a cup and a half of tapioca in two quarts of
+water and season with salt and pepper. At the bottom of a tureen place a
+lump of butter, and the yolks of two eggs, pour the tapioca over while
+it is still boiling, add a pint of hot milk and serve.
+
+=Brochet à la Tartare.=--Cut a fresh pike into slices and marinade each
+slice separately with a sauce made of sufficient olive oil, black
+pepper, a minced onion, finely cut mushrooms and chopped parsley. Cover
+the fish with breadcrumbs and broil, brushing occasionally with the
+marinade. When it is a golden color remove from the fire, place on a hot
+platter and serve sprinkled with parsley with a tartar sauce in a
+sauceboat.
+
+=Biftecks sautés aux Olives.=--Cut the steak into six pieces and toss in
+a frying pan with lard. When well done sprinkle with seasoning and
+remove from the fire. Then take half a glass of white wine, a
+tablespoonful of consommé, two or three dozen green olives, with the
+pits removed, and boil together for a few minutes. Set the steak in a
+crown on the platter and in the center place the dressing. Pour the
+gravy from the frying pan over all and serve.
+
+=Pommes de Terre à la Lyonnaise.=--Take a dozen potatoes of the same
+size, cut into pieces the size of a quarter of a dollar, roll in flour
+and put into a frying pan with boiling fat, taking them out when they
+are a golden brown. Also fry some thin slices of onion, mix with the
+potatoes, sprinkle with salt and serve garnished with parsley.
+
+=Épinards au Gratin.=--Boil two pounds of spinach and chop very fine.
+Beat up two eggs to each pound of spinach, mix with it and sprinkle the
+whole with breadcrumbs. Pour over some olive oil or melted butter and
+heat thoroughly in the oven in a vegetable dish.
+
+=Beignets Soufflés.=--Put a pound of flour, a pinch of salt, a liquor
+glass of rum, the yolks of three eggs and a quantity of lukewarm water
+into a mixing dish and beat these together till it shrinks from the
+dish. Then mix in the well-beaten whites of the eggs and then allow to
+rise for an hour or so. Have a baking dish very hot and put in the paste
+in pieces the size of a nut, which will triple in size while cooking.
+Let them cook to a golden color, remove from the fire and sprinkle with
+powdered sugar. Serve hot.
+
+
+
+
+VIII
+
+
+MENU
+
+ Consommé Royale
+ Filet de Sole à la Vénétienne
+ Salade Barbe de Capucin
+ Beignets de Pêches
+
+
+=Consommé Royale.=--Beat two eggs and mix them with half a cup of milk
+and a pinch of salt. Pour into a basin, stand this in a larger one
+containing hot water, place in the oven and bake till the contents of
+the small basin are firm, renewing water in the larger dish if
+necessary. Allow to cool and when set cut into small well-shaped pieces,
+pour over them a quart of hot consommé and serve immediately.
+
+=Filet de Sole à la Vénétienne.=--Place in a buttered tin two small or
+one large onion cut in thin slices, a little chopped parsley, a bayleaf,
+one or two whole cloves and salt and pepper. Lay the fillets of two
+soles on these with a generous piece of butter, pour over half a pint of
+white stock and a small glass of white wine. Cover the tin with oiled
+paper, and bake in the oven for about twelve minutes. When the fish is
+cooked take out all the liquor except just enough to keep the fish moist
+as it remains in the oven turned very low, strain it and add
+three-quarters of an ounce of flour and the same amount of butter. Bring
+the sauce to a boil, take it from the fire, add the yolk of an egg and a
+good amount of blanched parsley and chervil, chopped very fine. Arrange
+the fillets of sole on a hot dish, pour the sauce over and serve.
+
+=Salade Barbe de Capucin.=--Carefully pick over and break into
+convenient pieces the required amount of chicory and place in a salad
+bowl well rubbed with an onion. Just before serving pour over a French
+dressing, remembering to be in making it "a spendthrift for oil, a miser
+for vinegar, a counselor for salt and a madman to stir it all up."
+
+=Beignets des Pêches.=--Peel, stone and cut in halves some firm peaches.
+Toss about in a bowl with sugar, being careful not to break. Put a pound
+of flour in a basin and stir in gradually half a pint of water. Mix the
+whites of two stiffly beaten eggs with this batter and then add one and
+a quarter ounces of melted butter. Bring olive oil to a good heat in a
+frying pan, dip each piece of peach in the batter and fry in the fat.
+When lightly browned drain on a cloth or paper, lay on a baking dish,
+sift powdered sugar over and glaze by placing in a hot oven a few
+minutes. Arrange in pyramid shape on a folded napkin on a hot dish and
+serve immediately. Canned peaches, if firm, may, of course, be
+substituted for the fresh fruit.
+
+
+
+
+IX
+
+
+MENU
+
+ Côtelettes de Saumon, à l'Anglaise
+ Pommes de Terre, Marquise
+ Petits Pois à la Paysanne
+ Salade Américaine
+ Choux au Chocolat
+
+
+=Côtelettes de Saumon, Anglaise.=--Divide slices of salmon into shape of
+cutlets, sprinkle with pepper and salt and put into a saucepan with a
+small amount of butter and toss over the fire. When cooked take out and
+drain, place on a hot dish and serve with the following sauce: Put three
+tablespoonfuls of velouté sauce into a saucepan, reduce slightly and add
+one egg, four ounces of butter, a little salt, cayenne, some finely
+minced parsley and the juice of half a lemon. Mix together well over
+the fire till the ingredients are blended and it is ready.
+
+=Pommes de Terre, Marquise.=--Boil potatoes in salted water and pass
+through a sieve. Season with salt, pepper, nutmeg, chopped parsley and a
+little chopped thyme. Moisten with some good gravy or stock and form
+into small balls. Dip each in well beaten egg and fry to a light brown
+in butter.
+
+=Petits Pois à la Paysanne.=--Take fresh green peas, or canned ones if
+the former are not available, put over the fire in a saucepan with
+plenty of butter and stir frequently. Cut one or two rashers of bacon in
+very small dice and toss them in a saucepan over the fire. When the
+bacon is well fried, mix in with the peas and let the two finish cooking
+together, seasoning with pepper, salt and a little sugar.
+
+=Salade Américaine.=--Cut in rounds resembling a quarter-dollar equal
+quantities of new potatoes, carrots and beet root, all previously
+cooked. Then add a sour apple, cut in the same shape, and a few
+anchovies cut in small pieces. Pour over this a dressing of three parts
+oil to one of vinegar, add pepper, salt, mustard and chopped parsley.
+Pile the salad up and surround with cress.
+
+=Choux au Chocolat.=--Into a small saucepan put half a cup of water with
+two ounces of butter and one of sugar. When boiling add gradually two
+and a half ounces of finely sifted flour and stir till the mixture is
+stiff. Take from the fire, stir some more, then add two eggs, one at a
+time, beat the whole well, and leave to cool. Butter a baking sheet, lay
+the paste on it in round balls the size of a plum and bake in a moderate
+oven for about twenty minutes. Allow to cool and then make an incision
+in the side of each and fill with whipped cream slightly flavored with
+vanilla or with jam. Just before serving glaze each chou slightly with a
+chocolate icing.
+
+
+
+
+X
+
+
+MENU
+
+ Consommé Duchesse
+ Saumon, Sauce Piquante
+ Rissolettes de Bœuf
+ Salade à la Reine
+ Crème Noyau
+
+
+=Duchesse Consommé.=--Boil four tablespoonfuls of rice (ground) in four
+cups of water for fifteen minutes, adding half a teaspoonful each of
+salt and sugar. When the rice is soft and just before serving add a
+quart of warmed milk, bring to a boil, adding lastly a dash of pepper
+and paprika.
+
+=Saumon, Sauce Piquante.=--Take slices of salmon about three-quarters of
+an inch in thickness and place in a saucepan with hot fish broth mixed
+with a small quantity of wine. Allow to simmer for fifteen minutes. When
+cooked remove and wipe free from broth, place on a hot platter and
+serve with a sauce made as follows: Melt a quantity of butter, flavor to
+taste with tarragon vinegar, pepper, mustard, fennel and such spices as
+are liked. Stir over the fire till cooked, move to the side of the
+stove, thicken with the yolk of an egg and serve.
+
+=Rissolettes de Bœuf.=--With four cups of finely minced beef mix one cup
+of breadcrumbs, adding one boiled onion, a little essence of anchovies,
+salt, pepper and a raw egg. Make into balls, roll in breadcrumbs and fry
+slowly. Prepare a gravy by boiling the trimmings of the meat in the
+water in which the onion was boiled, thicken with flour or cornstarch,
+add three teaspoonfuls of lemon juice and pour over the rissolettes
+which should be arranged on a heated platter around a heap of mashed
+potatoes.
+
+=Salade à la Reine.=--Lay strips of endive lengthwise on the salad
+plates and cross them with peeled tomatoes cut in sections like an
+orange. Dress with a French salad dressing.
+
+=Crème Noyau.=--Pound in a mortar together a quarter pound of Jordan and
+an ounce of bitter almonds with a scant half cup of cream and two ounces
+of sugar. Rub through a sieve into a bowl, add a pint of whipped cream
+flavored with Noyau and then an ounce of gelatine dissolved. Pour into a
+mould to set. Serve with champagne wafers.
+
+
+
+
+XI
+
+
+MENU
+
+ Consommé à la Madrilène
+ Perches aux Fines Herbes
+ Filets Mignons aux Pommes de Terre
+ Aubergines Farcies
+ Omelette au Rhum
+
+
+=Consommé à la Madrilène.=--Put through a medium sieve five or six
+boiled ripe tomatoes, or a can of tomatoes, allow to cool and pack in a
+freezer. Add to a cold consommé and serve in cups.
+
+=Perches aux Fines Herbes.=--Prepare six fresh perch and marinade them
+with two tablespoonfuls of olive oil, a sprig of parsley, a little
+pepper and salt and allspice, bayleaf and other strong spices chopped
+fine. Keep the fish in this for about an hour, remove and roll in
+breadcrumbs lightly flavored with spices. Grill over a low fire till a
+golden brown in color and serve with butter sauce.
+
+=Filets Mignons aux Pommes de Terre.=--Marinade the required number of
+small filets mignon of mutton in butter seasoned with salt and chervil.
+Leave for an hour or more and just before they are to be served, grill
+them, basting frequently with the butter. Flavor with lemon juice and
+serve with buttered fried potatoes.
+
+=Aubergines Farcies.=--Cut eggplants in halves lengthwise, remove the
+inside and of this make a farcie by mixing it with chopped parsley, two
+chopped onions and salt and pepper. Stuff the eggplant halves with this
+mixture and put the combination into a casserole containing a good
+quantity of melted butter and allow to simmer over a slow fire till all
+is thoroughly done. Cover the tops with breadcrumbs, add a drop of oil
+or a little melted butter and keep piping hot till served.
+
+=Omelette au Rhum.=--Prepare an omelette as for any sweet omelette and
+just before serving place on a hot platter, pour rum over, ignite and
+carry to the table blazing.
+
+
+
+
+XII
+
+
+MENU
+
+ Potage Riz, Creçy
+ Canapés de Saumon Fumé
+ Paupiettes de Porc, Sauce Piquante
+ Asperges en Petits Pois
+ Tarte à la Turque
+
+
+=Potage Riz, Creçy.=--Cut several firm, red carrots lengthwise, using
+only the red part. Place in a casserole with a good bouillon and allow
+to simmer over a slow fire. Pass through a sieve when the carrots are
+soft, and put back in the bouillon. Add a cupful of cooked rice, bring
+to a boil and serve.
+
+=Canapés de Saumon Fumé.=--Cut a smoked salmon into slices and spread
+them with butter, adding pepper and salt and a pinch of nutmeg. Heat
+over a crisp fire, place on a hot dish, cover with croutons and serve.
+
+=Paupiettes de Porc, Sauce Piquante.=--Take small slices of cold roast
+pork and spread them with sausage meat. Roll them and fasten with
+skewers, then cover with a thin coating of lard or with oiled paper and
+cook them over a low fire in a casserole. When thoroughly done, take off
+the papers, cover with breadcrumbs and brown. Serve with a piquant
+sauce.
+
+=Asperges en Petits Pois.=--Cut up the green part of two bunches of
+asparagus, roll in butter and add a little salt. Heat a cupful of flour,
+being careful not to allow it to color, and dredge the asparagus with
+it. Put into a saucepan with sufficient milk and water in equal parts to
+cover, add a bouquet of herbs and allow the whole to simmer till the
+asparagus is cooked. Season with white pepper and serve.
+
+=Tarte à la Turque.=--Boil a cupful of rice till thick in milk to which
+has been added a stick of cinnamon, a little lemon juice and sugar. When
+the rice is cooked allow to cool. Make a border of it on a buttered
+plate and fill the center with a marmalade made as follows: Cut the
+peeled stalks of a bunch of rhubarb into dice and allow them to simmer
+in a small amount of water till they are of the consistency of
+marmalade. Add three or four teaspoonfuls of sugar, a lump of butter and
+the rind of a lemon. Take from the fire and immediately add the beaten
+yolks of two eggs. Arrange, as stated, in the middle of the rice,
+sprinkle with a little more sugar and set in the oven for fifteen
+minutes or more before serving.
+
+
+
+
+XIII
+
+
+MENU
+
+ Potage à la Chicorée
+ Allumettes d'Anchois
+ Bœuf Bouilli en Vinaigrette
+ Pommes Maire
+ Salade de Tomates
+ Crème Brulée
+
+
+=Potage à la Chicorée.=--Pick carefully and wash two or three heads of
+chicory, cut into shreds and pass through a little heated butter without
+allowing to take color. Then add sufficient of the water in which the
+Pommes Maire (below) were boiled to make the required quantity of soup,
+add pepper and salt, simmer for an hour. Just after taking from the fire
+add the beaten yolk of an egg. Pour into the tureen over toasted slices
+of stale bread.
+
+=Allumettes d'Anchois.=--Make a fritter paste with flour and oil,
+omitting salt. Soften with white wine. Wash the desired number of
+anchovies, remove the bones and draw out the salt by soaking in milk.
+Dip into the paste and fry.
+
+=Bœuf Bouilli en Vinaigrette.=--Cut cold, lean beef into narrow, thin
+slices. Place it in a bowl with a finely chopped onion and some chervil,
+a few cut-up gherkins, a teaspoonful of capers, pour oil, a little
+vinegar and the juice of half a lemon over, add pepper and salt, toss
+well together and serve at once.
+
+=Pommes Maire.=--Use "kidney" potatoes if procurable; if not, ordinary
+potatoes of small size. Boil in salt water and peel while still hot,
+then cut in thick chips and place in a casserole and cover with boiling
+milk. Season with pepper and salt and allow to boil, turning with a fork
+till the milk has boiled away. Remove from the fire, pour over a cup of
+rich milk, season again and serve.
+
+=Salade de Tomates.=--Cut a pound of not too ripe tomatoes into one
+inch cubes, add salt, pepper, vinegar and oil to taste and then toss
+together with a minced onion. Serve right away. If desired, cold boiled
+beef in dainty slices may be added.
+
+=Crème Brulée.=--Blend a tablespoonful of flour with the yolks of three
+eggs and place in a casserole. Pour slowly in a pint or more of milk,
+add a pinch of cinnamon, a few drops of extract of lemon or any flavor
+desired, and stir constantly over the fire. When the cream is cooked,
+make a caramel sauce in a porcelain pot by melting five or six lumps of
+sugar and cooking to the browning point. Pour this into a serving dish,
+pour the cream over it and allow to cool.
+
+
+
+
+XIV
+
+
+MENU
+
+ Bisque d'Herbes
+ Turbot à la Rachel
+ Choufleur au Gratin
+ Salade Barbe de Capucin
+ Gâteau de Frangipane
+
+
+=Bisque d'Herbes.=--Chop together about a handful each of lettuce,
+sorrel, spinach, also a small onion, a little celery and some chervil
+and cook all with an egg-sized piece of butter for fifteen minutes,
+stirring constantly. Then add three tablespoonfuls of flour made smooth
+with a little stock, stir in four cupfuls of the cauliflower water
+(which you will have from a recipe following) into which has been beaten
+the yolk of an egg. Serve very hot with croutons.
+
+=Turbot à la Rachel.=--Boil the fish in salted water. Whitefish or
+haddock will serve as well as turbot. Make the following sauce: Smooth
+and brown together two tablespoonfuls of flour and two ounces of butter
+and stir in five gills of water in which the fish was boiled, adding a
+teaspoonful each of anchovy essence and mushroom catsup. Remove from the
+fire and beat in the yolks of two eggs and the juice of one lemon. Color
+with liquid carmine or a few drops of cochineal and pour over the fish.
+
+=Choufleur au Gratin.=--Dip the cauliflower into ice water, then plunge
+it into boiling salted water to cook fifteen minutes. Cut a slice off
+the stalk, remove the leaves, lay on a flat dish and cover with a cream
+sauce. Sprinkle with grated breadcrumbs and grated Parmesan cheese,
+brown in the oven and serve.
+
+=Salade Barbe de Capucin.=--Lay the stalks of American endive in a dish
+and cut into small pieces a medium shallot. Mix, add a French dressing
+and sprinkle with finely chopped tarragon leaves.
+
+=Gâteau de Frangipane.=--Whisk together a quarter of a pound of powdered
+sugar and the whites of three eggs, then beat in three tablespoonfuls of
+milk, the grated peel of a lemon and a dash of salt. Then stir in half a
+pound of flour. Bake in patty tins and when done scoop a piece out of
+the top of each patty and fill with jam. Then pour over a sauce made as
+follows: Put two wineglassfuls of white wine into a small saucepan and
+stir in a cupful of orange marmalade with the juice of a lemon. Thicken
+with a little corn-starch.
+
+
+
+
+XV
+
+
+MENU
+
+ Potage Bisque
+ Canard à la Pertinset
+ Pommes de Terre à la Crème
+ Choufleur au Beurre Noir
+ Salade de Lentilles
+ Pêches au Vin
+
+
+=Potage Bisque.=--Boil as many crabs as are needed in water, adding
+salt, pepper, two good sized onions and equal quantities of carrots and
+chives. Remove the crabs and take the meat from the claws. Mash the
+vegetables until they form a purée and add a good sized lump of butter.
+Place over the fire with water or bouillon and allow to come to a boil.
+Serve very hot with croutons and the meat from the crab claws.
+
+=Canard à la Pertinset.=--Place a carefully prepared duck in a casserole
+and dredge it with a lump of melted butter, add two onions, one clove,
+a dash of garlic. Put in the oven but do not allow the onions to become
+too brown before removing the duck. Then add five or six tomatoes, one
+glass of white wine, a glass of bouillon, a few cloves and a bayleaf.
+Let this boil over a low fire, then mash the tomatoes and onions, put
+back the duck into the casserole and boil for forty minutes.
+
+=Pommes de Terre à la Crème.=--Put into a casserole a lump of butter, a
+pinch of flour, salt and pepper, nutmeg and a young onion. Mix well and
+add a cup of rich milk. Place on the fire, stir constantly, and remove
+as soon as the mixture comes to a boil. Meanwhile boil as many potatoes
+as are required in salted water. Peel and cut into slices, add to the
+sauce and serve.
+
+=Choufleur au Beurre Noir.=--Boil a cauliflower and drain. Add a pinch
+of salt, nutmeg and a dash of vinegar to a pint of the water in which
+the cauliflower was cooked. Melt two tablespoonfuls of butter and when
+it is a light brown add it to the mixture. Pour over the cauliflower on
+a hot platter.
+
+=Salade de Lentilles.=--Having boiled two cupfuls of lentils till they
+are tender, season them either hot or cold with a little garlic cut up
+fine, or with chives and serve in lettuce leaves with a French dressing.
+
+=Pêches au Vin.=--Put peaches into a stewpan and cover them with water.
+In ten minutes remove the skins. Then place them in a shallow dish and
+cover them either with Madeira or Moselle wine and allow them to stand
+for at least two hours. Then drain them, place them in the dish in which
+they are to be served and cover them with vanilla sugar. Set the wine in
+which they have been soaked on the fire, add sugar to taste, and pour
+the sauce boiling over the peaches.
+
+
+
+
+XVI
+
+
+MENU
+
+ Sardines Grillées
+ Chapon à l'Indienne
+ Pommes de Terre en Matelote
+ Salade Beaucaire
+ Crème Fouettée
+
+
+=Sardines Grillées.=--Grill half a dozen sardines, or as many as desired,
+for a few minutes. Melt butter in a frying-pan, stir in a little flour
+and moisten with hot water, then add a few drops of vinegar, a dash of
+mustard, salt and pepper. Pour this very hot over the sardines.
+
+=Chapon à l'Indienne.=--Prepare and truss a capon as for roasting, rub
+all over with butter and place in a casserole with a good sized slice of
+salt pork. Cook over a slow fire for three hours. In the meantime cook a
+cupful of rice, season it with a little curry powder and pimento, and
+place around the capon on the platter on which it is served.
+
+=Pommes de Terre en Matelote.=--Slice freshly boiled potatoes and cook
+en casserole with seasoning of pepper and salt, two or three sliced
+onions, a sprig of chopped parsley, a lump of butter and a small amount
+of flour and water. Cook till all the ingredients are well blended and
+when heaped on a platter and ready for the table, pour over a glass or
+two of wine.
+
+=Salade Beaucaire.=--Chop coarsely celery and endive together, season
+with oil, vinegar and mustard an hour before using. Just before taking
+to the table, add chopped boiled ham, a sour apple, diced, moistened
+with a little tarragon and mayonnaise. Surround the salad with a border
+of small potatoes, boiled and sliced, alternated with slices of beet.
+
+=Crème Fouettée.=--Whip cream till it is very thick or make about a
+quart of custard. Mash thoroughly a pound of cherries or raspberries, or
+both with powdered sugar. Mix with the cream or custard, beat again and
+serve immediately. In summer this may be iced with good results.
+
+
+
+
+XVII
+
+
+MENU
+
+ Potage Macédoine
+ Homards et Champignons
+ Côtelettes de Mouton à la Brunoise
+ Petits Pois à la Française
+ Choux à la Crème
+
+
+=Potage Macédoine.=--Place thin pieces of ham in the bottom of a
+saucepan and then put in three each of turnips, potatoes and onions, all
+cut up small. Pour in some stock, season with pepper and salt and simmer
+till the ham and vegetables are cooked. Add a quart of milk and bring
+almost to a boil, strain and serve immediately.
+
+=Homards et Champignons.=--Cut an equal quantity of lobster meat and
+mushrooms into dice. Boil some velouté sauce together with some essence
+of mushrooms till somewhat reduced, then thicken and mix with the
+lobster and mushrooms. Fill ramekin cases with the preparation,
+sprinkle with breadcrumbs, pour over a little melted butter and bake in
+the oven till browned. Serve piping hot.
+
+=Côtelettes de Mouton à la Brunoise.=--Trim mutton cutlets neatly,
+cutting away all fat, and place side by side in a large stewpan. Cover
+with well-flavored stock and leave to simmer, well covered, for an hour
+and a half. Take equal quantities of turnips, onions and celery and
+double the amount of carrots, cut all into quarter-inch cubes and fry in
+butter till they begin to color, putting in first the carrots, then the
+celery, then the onions and last the turnips. When all are done, drain
+and allow them to simmer gently in a little common stock. A little while
+before the cutlets are done drain off all the surplus stock from the
+vegetables, or boil it down quickly over a hot fire. Dress the cutlets
+on the rim of a platter, heap the vegetables in the center and pour the
+gravy all over them. Accompany with mashed potatoes.
+
+=Petits Pois à la Française.=--Cook a pint of shelled peas till tender,
+drain and place on the back of the fire with not quite a gill of the
+water in which they have been boiled, a little flour and an ounce of
+butter. Simmer for five minutes, adding pepper and salt to taste and
+just before taking from the fire add the yolk of an egg mixed with a
+tablespoonful and a half of cream. Serve very hot in china or paper
+cases.
+
+=Choux à la Crème.=--Put a small piece of butter in a saucepan with half
+a pint of water, a teaspoonful of sugar, a piece of lemon peel and a
+little salt. Boil well together, stir in two tablespoonfuls of flour and
+stir till thick and cooked. Allow this paste to cool and then work into
+it two eggs and sufficient milk to make it thin enough to drop from a
+spoon. Heat lard in a deep frying pan, not quite to the point of
+boiling, and with a spoon drop the paste into it in lumps about the size
+of a hen's egg. When slightly brown and well swollen, remove the cakes,
+drain them well, scoop out a little of the top of each to form a hollow
+and allow them to cool. Whip cream to a stiff froth and put a small
+amount into the hollow of each chou, arrange on a fancy dish and serve.
+The chou may be filled with jelly or preserves if preferred.
+
+
+
+
+XVIII
+
+
+MENU
+
+ Potage à la Printanière
+ Paupiettes de Veau
+ Pommes de Terre, Maître d'Hôtel
+ Salade de Laitue
+ Feuillantines
+
+
+=Potage à la Printanière.=--Cut two carrots and one turnip into shapes
+with a vegetable scoop, simmer for twenty minutes in salted water, drain
+and place in a quart of the water in which the potatoes (in this same
+menu) were boiled. Add a handful of chiffonade, cook five minutes and
+serve.
+
+=Paupiettes de Veau.=--Cut thin cutlets from a fillet of veal and beat
+them flat and even. Also mince a small quantity of the veal very fine,
+mix it with some of the kidney fat, also minced fine, and half a dozen
+minced anchovies, adding a little salt, ginger and powdered mace. Place
+this mixture over the slices of veal and roll them up. Beat up an egg,
+dip the rolled slices in it and then in sifted breadcrumbs. Let them
+stand for fifteen or twenty minutes, egg them again, roll in breadcrumbs
+and fry to a golden brown in boiling lard or clarified dripping, or stew
+them in some rich gravy with half a pint of white wine and a small
+quantity of walnut pickle.
+
+=Pommes de Terre, Maître d'Hôtel.=--Cut up carefully selected,
+underboiled and cold potatoes in rather thick slices. Dredge half a
+tablespoonful of flour in a saucepan with a lump of butter and when
+smooth add gradually a cupful of broth, stirring till it boils. Place in
+the potatoes along with a tablespoonful of chopped parsley and pepper
+and salt. Stew for three or four minutes, remove the pan to the side of
+the fire and add quickly the yolk of an egg previously well beaten with
+a teaspoonful of cold water and a little lemon juice. When the egg has
+become thickened, turn the potatoes with their sauce on a flat dish and
+serve.
+
+=Salade de Laitue.=--Select fine lettuces, remove the coarse outer
+leaves, wash and wipe, place in a salad bowl and sprinkle over a
+tablespoonful of chopped chives, half a teaspoonful each of chopped
+chervil and tarragon. Season with a pinch of salt, half a teaspoonful of
+pepper, two tablespoonfuls of vinegar and a tablespoonful and a half of
+oil. Mix thoroughly and serve.
+
+=Feuillantines.=--Prepare some puff paste; roll out to about a third of
+an inch thick and cut into strips an inch wide and two inches long.
+Spread a baking dish thick with butter, arrange the pieces of paste on
+it, placing them upon their sides and leaving a small space between
+them. Put them in the oven and when they are firm and their sides have
+spread, glaze them with white of egg and dust with powdered sugar. As
+the feuillantines are cooked set them on paper and drain off any extra
+grease. Now mask them separately with small quantities of different
+colored jams. Arrange on fancy edged dish-paper or a folded napkin on a
+dish and serve.
+
+
+
+
+XIX
+
+
+MENU
+
+ Potage Crème d'Orge
+ Bœuf à la Mode
+ Pommes de Terre, Sautées
+ Salade de Romaine
+ Soufflé au Chocolat
+
+
+=Potage Crème d'Orge.=--Mix in a saucepan a teacupful of barley, an
+onion, a small piece of cinnamon, half a blade of mace and three pints
+of water in which potatoes have been boiled. When the mixture boils
+remove from the center of the fire and allow to simmer slowly for three
+hours or more. Pass through a fine sieve and return to saucepan. Mix in
+two tablespoonfuls of butter and half a pint of boiling milk, season
+with pepper and salt. Beat an egg yolk in a teacupful of milk, mix in
+the soup but do not allow to boil after egg is added. Serve with
+croutons.
+
+=Bœuf à la Mode.=--Take the under part of a round of beef, place it in a
+deep earthen dish and pour over it spiced vinegar. Let the meat remain
+in this for several hours, then dress it with strips of salt pork, a
+third of an inch square, inserted in incisions made a few inches apart.
+Stuff larger incisions with breadcrumbs highly seasoned with salt,
+pepper, onions, thyme and marjoram. Bind the beef into a shape to retain
+the dressing and dredge with flour. Then cut up two onions, half a
+carrot and half a turnip and fry in fat drippings till brown and place
+in a stewpan. Brown the meat all over with the same fat, place on a
+trivet in the pan, half cover with boiling water, add a small quantity
+of mixed herbs tied in a bag, cover and simmer for about four hours, or
+till done. Take out carefully, remove strings and cloth, and place on a
+large dish. Skim off the fat from the gravy, add more seasoning, thicken
+with wetted flour worked smooth, boil for eight or ten minutes and
+strain over the meat. Decorate with small onions and potato balls.
+
+=Pommes de Terre, Sautées.=--Boil potatoes until almost done, cut into
+quarters or slices of medium thickness. Melt butter or clarified
+drippings in a frying pan, put in the potatoes sprinkled with salt and
+pepper and finely chopped parsley and toss over the fire till they are a
+fine golden brown color. Serve with chopped parsley.
+
+=Salade de Romaine.=--Put crisp leaves of romaine in a salad bowl rubbed
+lightly with a shallot or new onion. Make the following dressing. Take
+one hard-boiled egg and mash it as finely as possible with a fork, add a
+little paprika, a pinch of salt, half a teaspoonful of French mustard, a
+teaspoonful of hashed chives, the same of hashed tarragon, two
+tablespoonfuls of oil and three of vinegar. Add this to the romaine,
+toss well and serve.
+
+=Soufflé au Chocolat.=--Mix a small tablespoonful of starch with a gill
+of milk and when quite smooth add two ounces of powdered sugar and two
+ounces of butter. Put the mixture into a saucepan and stir over the fire
+till it boils. When cold stir in an ounce of grated chocolate and the
+yolks of two eggs. Beat well together till perfectly smooth, then mix in
+the whites of the eggs. Pour into a buttered souffle dish and bake for
+forty minutes.
+
+
+
+
+XX
+
+
+MENU
+
+ Potage Gourmet
+ Eglefin à la Maître d'Hôtel
+ Pommes de Terre, Casserole
+ Salade de Tomates et de Laitue
+ Canards Sauvages, Sauce Orange
+ Soufflé au Citron
+
+
+=Potage Gourmet.=--Pour into a saucepan about a quart of the water in
+which potatoes have been boiled, add a small amount of cold chicken cut
+in small dice, two tablespoonfuls of boiled rice, two tablespoonfuls of
+cooked green peas and one truffle cut into dice, also pepper and salt,
+along with one or two whole cloves. Bring to a boil, allow to simmer for
+fifteen minutes, and serve.
+
+=Eglefin à la Maître d'Hôtel.=--Cut a cleaned haddock open at the back
+on each side of the bone, dust with pepper and salt, dip in flour,
+place on a gridiron over a clear fire and cook for about twenty minutes,
+turning carefully from time to time. Remove from the fire, place two
+ounces of butter on the back of the fish, place it in the oven to melt
+the butter, then, put the fish on a hot platter and sprinkle with mince
+parsley and lemon juice, the latter heated.
+
+=Pommes de Terre, Casserole.=--Boil a pound or two of potatoes, drain
+and mash and make into a stiff paste by adding butter and milk together
+with a little salt. Form into a casserole, put on a dish, make an
+opening in the top, brown in the oven and serve.
+
+=Salade de Tomates et Laitue.=--Split the white leaves of lettuce into
+quarters and place in a bowl. Cut tomatoes into thin slices and place
+over the lettuce. Season with a sauce made of one part of vinegar, two
+of oil, a little salt and pepper. Pour the sauce over just before
+serving.
+
+=Canards Sauvages, Sauce Orange.=--Roast two wild ducks over a brisk
+fire, having them underdone, more or less, according to taste. Baste
+all the time they are cooking with butter and the juice of lemon and
+serve with the following sauce. Shred finely the rind of two oranges and
+parboil in a little water. Melt an ounce of butter and stir into it a
+dessertspoonful of flour moistened with a little water. Stir well over
+the fire and then add the juice of the two oranges, some very clear
+gravy, flavor with pepper and salt and cayenne, then add the parboiled
+orange rind. Let the sauce boil and keep hot till wanted.
+
+=Soufflé au Citron.=--Put three egg yolks and three ounces of powdered
+sugar into a basin with the grated rind of a lemon and a half and stir
+till quite thick. Add slowly a tablespoonful of lemon juice and then,
+quickly, the well beaten whites of the three eggs. Pour into a pie dish
+and bake in a medium oven for twenty minutes. When the surface is a
+golden brown it is done. Serve immediately.
+
+
+
+
+XXI
+
+
+MENU
+
+ Filets de Carrelets, Italienne
+ Pommes de Terre, Loulou
+ Cailles Rôtis
+ Salade des Tomates et d'Artichauts
+ Vol-au-Vent, Chantilly
+
+
+=Filets de Carrelets, Italienne.=--Take the fillets of two firm
+flounders, trim and flour each piece lightly. Dip in egg beaten with
+pepper and salt, cover on both sides with stale breadcrumbs and fry in
+boiling olive oil. When the fillets are a golden brown place on a sieve
+in front of the fire with a soft paper beneath them that they may drain.
+Serve with fried parsley and quarters of lemon.
+
+=Pommes de Terre, Loulou.=--Chop raw potatoes fine and place them in a
+saucepan with butter and a seasoning of pepper, salt, paprika and a
+trace of nutmeg. Cover and cook very slowly, agitating them constantly.
+When they become soft, beat well and arrange a layer on a vegetable
+dish, sprinkle with Parmesan cheese, put on another layer of potatoes,
+then more cheese, and so on, having the top layer of cheese. Pour over
+all melted butter and bake about twenty minutes in a slow oven.
+
+=Cailles Rôtis.=--Tie a thin slice of bacon over the breast of each
+quail, roast them at a clear fire for fifteen minutes, basting
+frequently. Lay them on crisp buttered toast, sprinkle with minced
+parsley, salt and paprika, and serve with a rich wine jelly on a
+separate dish.
+
+=Salade des Tomates et d'Artichauts.=--Cut the under part of boiled
+artichokes into slices and take the same number of slices of tomato. Dip
+both into a dressing made of olive oil, vinegar, tarragon, chervil, salt
+and pepper, with a little mustard and arrange in a salad bowl. Pour over
+the remainder of the dressing and serve.
+
+=Vol-au-Vent, Chantilly.=--Roll a pound of puff paste to about an eighth
+of an inch in thickness and cut out about thirty rounds with a fluted
+cutter, about two and a half inches in diameter. Then cut out the center
+of these with a cutter about an inch across. Roll out the paste taken
+from the centers and cut out more rings in the same way. Brush the rings
+over with egg, place one on top of another, two by two, press together
+so that they will stick, place on a baking sheet, brush over with egg
+and bake in a brisk oven. When almost done sprinkle with sugar and allow
+to remain in the oven till they are glazed and fully done. Remove and
+place on a warmed platter and fill with any sort of cream desired, or
+jam or tart marmalade.
+
+
+
+
+XXII
+
+
+MENU
+
+ Potage Julienne
+ Homard Bordelaise
+ Canard à la Reine
+ Salade à la Russe
+ Café Bavaroise
+
+
+=Potage Julienne.=--Cut carrots, onions, leeks and turnips into thin
+slices or strips of equal size with a head of celery. Put all into two
+ounces of butter melted in a saucepan and toss over a slow fire for a
+few minutes. If desired other vegetables in season such as cauliflower,
+peas or asparagus may be added. Pour clear chicken broth over the
+vegetables, put in some pieces of cold chicken, allow to come to a boil,
+then simmer till the vegetables are tender and pour the whole into the
+tureen with sippets of toast.
+
+=Homard Bordelaise.=--Cut a small carrot and an onion into fine pieces
+and boil for five minutes in a wineglassful of red wine. Now add the
+meat from two lobsters, cut in small pieces, say, about a pound and a
+half. Season with a very little pepper, salt, and a trace of nutmeg,
+adding, just before the lobster is cooked, about half a pint of velouté
+sauce. Stew well together and serve at once.
+
+=Canard à la Reine.=--Cut off one wing of a duck and half the breast
+from the same side, remove the skin, take out the bone and fill the
+place with quenelle forcemeat. Lard the breast and put it into a
+braising pan over slices of leeks, carrots and onions and a little
+thyme, chervil, bayleaves and lemon peel. Add sufficient stock to
+prevent burning, set the pan on the fire and braise the duck, then glaze
+it. Serve with a purée of beans for garnish.
+
+=Salade à la Russe.=--Cut cold chicken and salmon into thin slices,
+arrange in a salad dish and mix with finely cut cooked asparagus heads,
+carrots and cauliflower, a few capers and a little caviare. The dressing
+is made with three parts of oil and one of vinegar, a little mustard and
+cayenne pepper and a tablespoonful of minced onion. Pour over the salad
+and stand on the ice till served.
+
+=Café Bavaroise.=--Grind half a pound of green coffee, roast in a sugar
+boiler without burning it or even browning and soak a quart of milk with
+it for about an hour. Now stir into a cupful of flour a teaspoonful of
+castor sugar into which has been dropped a little vanilla extract, and a
+little salt. Stir this all in with the strained coffee-flavored milk,
+bring to a boil, remove from the fire and stir in the yolks, then the
+whites of three eggs, all beaten firm. Fill paper cases with the
+mixture, bake, sprinkle castor sugar over the tops and serve at once.
+
+
+
+
+XXIII
+
+
+MENU
+
+ Huitres à l'Américaine
+ Bœuf à l'Aurore
+ Pommes de Terre, Lyonnaise
+ Salade Française
+ Crème à la Russe
+
+
+=Huitres à l'Américaine.=--Place in a sauce bowl a heaped teaspoonful of
+salt, three-quarters of a teaspoonful of white pepper, a medium sized
+onion, chopped, and a teaspoonful of minced parsley. Mix lightly
+together along with a teaspoonful of olive oil, six drops of tobasco
+sauce, a little Worcestershire sauce and a gill of vinegar. Put a
+teaspoonful of this mixture on each raw oyster just before taking to the
+table.
+
+=Bœuf à l'Aurore.=--Season two steaks of about three-quarters of a pound
+each (any ordinary cut will do) with salt and pepper, baste on either
+side with a little oil and broil over a brisk fire for six minutes.
+Place on a hot dish and serve with the following sauce poured over: Mix
+in a saucepan a small glass of mushroom liquor with half a pint of
+bechamel sauce, half an ounce of butter and two or three tablespoonfuls
+of tomato sauce. Place on the fire, stir for ten minutes and just before
+removing add whole mushrooms cut in squares.
+
+=Salade Française.=--Chop fine a bunch of parsley, two small onions and
+six anchovies. Lay them in a bowl and mix with salt and mustard to
+taste, two tablespoonfuls of salad oil and a gill of vinegar. Stir all
+well together and then add, one at a time, some very thin strips of cold
+roasted or boiled meat, not more than three or four inches long. Shake
+the slices well in the dressing. Cover the bowl closely and allow to
+stand for at least three hours. Serve garnished with parsley.
+
+=Pommes de Terre, Lyonnaise.=--Cut into round slices eight boiled
+potatoes, lay them in a frying pan with an ounce and a half of butter
+and the slices of a partly cooked onion. Season with salt and pepper and
+cook till the potatoes become well browned, tossing all the while. Serve
+with chopped parsley sprinkled over.
+
+=Crème à la Russe.=--Put into a saucepan a pint of milk, half a pound of
+lump sugar, the grated rind of two lemons and an ounce of gelatine,
+previously soaked in water. Cook till the sugar dissolves over a slow
+fire, then allow the mixture to cool somewhat before stirring in the
+yolks of two eggs, unbeaten. Place on the fire to curdle. Strain, and
+when cool add the juice of the two lemons and the whites of the eggs
+beaten stiffly. Stir all well together and pour into a wet mould. Turn
+out when well set.
+
+
+
+
+XXIV
+
+
+MENU
+
+ Potage Napolitaine
+ Truites à la Monbarry
+ Croquettes de Pommes de Terre
+ Celeri-rave en Salade
+ Pouding aux Figues
+
+
+=Potage Napolitaine.=--Boil in strong bouillon small forcemeat balls
+made of any left-over game or meat. Then soak croutons in the same
+bouillon. Add the forcemeat balls and serve.
+
+=Truites à la Monbarry.=--Prepare several trout and lay them in a pan
+with a quarter pound of butter and some strong spices. Allow to heat
+slowly in an open oven and when the butter is entirely melted, drop on
+the trout two well beaten yolks of eggs. Grate cheese over this and
+cover all with a quantity of fine breadcrumbs. Brown lightly in a hot
+oven and serve.
+
+=Croquettes de Pommes de Terre.=--Boil and drain about two and a half
+pounds of potatoes. Add a generous quantity of butter, yolks of two
+eggs, salt and pepper and the white of the eggs beaten to a snow. Beat
+the whole up briskly, shape the mixture into balls and fry in a pan.
+
+=Celeri-rave en Salade.=--Trim carefully a bunch of celery, leaving on
+as much of the root as possible. Cut in half and boil in salted water
+till tender. Then trim into even sticks and season it very piquantly
+with French mustard, a few young onions, pepper, salt and finely chopped
+parsley. Garnish with lettuce-leaves and slices of beet.
+
+=Pouding aux Figues.=--Mix in a large bowl a cupful of breadcrumbs, half
+a cup of farina, a pinch of salt, a cup of suet, cut fine, a cup of
+powdered sugar, a minced carrot and a cup and a half of chopped figs.
+Grease a baking mould, line it with whole figs, and empty the mixture
+into it. Cook for four hours, the pan standing in water. Serve hot with
+a rum sauce.
+
+
+
+
+LET US EAT FISH
+
+A FAMOUS FRENCH LUNCHEON À L'AMÉRICAINE
+
+
+Only in the Latin countries has fish as an edible ever been fully
+appreciated and, as is the case with most other things gastronomic, it
+is in France that the food possibilities of the denizens of the water
+have been brought nearest perfection.
+
+Over here we have always seemed to regard fish as useful chiefly for
+stocking aquariums or for furnishing sport for the vacationist, along
+with golf, tennis and bowling. True, we have become rather well
+acquainted with certain sea foods, the oysters, Blue Points and Cape
+Cods; we have a nodding acquaintance with some of the clam clan,
+especially the Rhode Island branch, and the Little Necks, the blue
+bloods of the family. And, of course, we are familiar with the
+crustaceans, the lobsters and the crabs.
+
+And we know, too, certain succulent sea delicacies that come to us from
+Palm Beach shores and California and Oregon regions, tuna and halibut,
+bluefish and salmon as it comes to us variously prepared for the table.
+In short, we Americans are fairly friendly with a number of the
+aristocrats of the water, but on analyzing the situation we come to
+realize that as for knowing the "finny tribe" as a whole well enough to
+get complete gastronomic joy out of the situation, it remains that it is
+only the French people who are so blessed.
+
+Time and the hour and the high price of meat, however, render it
+advisable, even absolutely necessary, that we work _all_ our resources
+instead of only a part of them, to economize whenever and wherever we
+can, and the waters in our midst and around us are surely one of the
+most important resources not already worked to the limit.
+
+Therefore, let us eat fish--but first let us learn of the French about
+fish, even as we have learned of them concerning other foods, or as we
+have learned fashions, for, verily, the turning out of a proper fish
+dish for the table has ever been regarded by the French as no less an
+art than the creation of a beautiful frock in one of their ateliers.
+Moreover, their ways with fish are so broadly inclusive that one may
+make up an entire menu from one end to the other, with only a cup of
+coffee needed as a final fillip to make a perfect meal--and all of fish.
+
+By way of furnishing inspiration to our own appetites, herewith is a
+suggestion for a fish luncheon, a favorite menu of France, which its
+wealth and fashion delighted to have set before it in those good old
+days before the war. Substitutes are given for any fish not indigenous
+to American waters; otherwise it is just as it would be served at one of
+the Riviera restaurants, with the exception, of course, that on the
+Riviera or at any of the noted marine restaurants, the visitor himself
+was permitted to select the fish for each course from among the
+different specimens swimming in the reserves, altogether unconscious of
+impending fate.
+
+No French restauranteur worthy the name ever kept dead fish in stock,
+for nothing deteriorates so quickly. There is rarely over here the
+natural reserve that the Riviera takes as a matter of course, although
+there is, in some restaurants, the tank of running water in which the
+fish are kept in condition till required.
+
+
+
+
+AN ALL FISH LUNCHEON
+
+
+MENU
+
+=Hors d'Œuvres.= =Little Necks or Blue Points.=
+
+ (At Monte Carlo one would be served Clovisses.)
+
+=Lobster with Sauce Piquante.=
+
+ (A substitute for the French langouste, which is similar to a giant
+ lobster minus the two long nippers. Or there might be served abroad
+ for this course a little gelatinous fellow called supion, or
+ sea-hedgehog, or perhaps nonnots, smaller and more delicate than our
+ own whitefish.)
+
+=French Sardines Grilled, or Shad Planked.=
+
+ (Shad is a most satisfactory substitute for the French
+ restauranteur's delight--loup de mer.)
+
+=Flounder, Sauce Meunière, or Shrimps.=
+
+ (In Dieppe sole and certain crevettes are both specialties and are
+ served at this juncture, but little sole is being received here and
+ our own flounder answers requirements admirably. Shrimps, too, will
+ please an American palate fully as well as the crevettes.)
+
+=Bouillabaisse.=
+
+ (This, for which we have no nearer synonym than fish stew, which is
+ a libel, is the pièce de résistance of the luncheon. It is probably
+ the most famous fish dish of France.)
+
+=Salade de Poisson with Aioli.=
+
+ (Aioli is a Mediterranean mayonnaise and "the dressing," the French
+ say, "is the soul of the salad.")
+
+It will be noted that there is no dessert given with the above menu, but
+the repast may be gracefully topped off with crackers and cheese and
+café noir. Tea is never served with fish, as the tannin is said to
+render fish particularly indigestible.
+
+
+TO PREPARE THE LUNCHEON
+
+The French disdain the pepper, horseradish and tomato mixtures with
+which we are wont to dress raw oysters, preferring to get the full
+coppery taste peculiar to their home product, but the American oyster,
+even these artists of the culinary department agree, requires a dressing
+to bring out the flavor. As for the clovisse, which is, by the way,
+first cousin to our clam, it is eaten from the shell, each clovisse
+being opened immediately before being disposed of.
+
+Lobster as here served to take the place of the French langouste, tastes
+much like deviled lobster. The sauce piquante is made as follows: Into a
+saucepan put a tablespoonful of finely chopped onion with a little salt,
+grated nutmeg, black pepper and an ounce of butter. When this melts and
+blends add a little chopped red pepper along with three tablespoonfuls
+of vinegar and a teaspoonful of mustard. Stir together well, then mix in
+half an ounce of flour and half a pint of fish stock. Simmer for half an
+hour, skimming occasionally and, finally add a chopped pickled gherkin.
+
+=Sauce Meunière=, served with the sole, or, in this case with the
+flounder, is made by adding a few shrimps and mussels, minced, to a pint
+of white wine in a saucepan, along with a cupful of minced mushrooms, a
+teaspoonful of butter, salt and pepper and three or four cloves. Simmer
+for twenty minutes and pour over the fish just before serving.
+
+=Salade de Poisson, Aioli=, is made by taking any cold fish, say salmon,
+with this menu. It is flaked and marinaded in oil and vinegar seasoned
+well with pepper and salt. Allow to remain for an hour or so, then
+remove and arrange compactly in a salad bowl. The aioli, the
+Mediterranean delicacy with which it is served, is made by whipping two
+eggs, four teaspoonfuls of olive oil, a half teaspoonful of French
+mustard and a half cupful of cream together till stiff, in a bowl rubbed
+with garlic. Heap this on the center of the fish.
+
+As for the =Bouillabaisse=, it is like our own Welsh Rabbit in so far as
+hardly any two persons make it alike. Here are two recipes which
+gastronomic authorities have accorded the meed of highest praise:
+
+No. 1.--Cut into pieces and remove the bones from three pounds of fish;
+say one pound each of cod, halibut and bluefish, though any fish of like
+nature will do. To these add the cooked meat of one lobster or two
+crabs, and six shrimps and put all into a casserole in half a pint or
+more of olive oil to cook, adding one lemon, sliced, two tomatoes, one
+onion, one sliced carrot, a bunch of saffron, a bunch of parsley, a
+bayleaf and a clove of garlic--or have the casserole rubbed with the
+garlic. Cook for ten minutes, stirring frequently, then add one cup of
+soup stock and a glass of wine or cider. Cook for fifteen minutes
+longer, remove to a hot bowl, line the casserole with slices of toast,
+and pour back the bouillabaisse. Serve at once.
+
+No. 2.--Place the pieces of fish to any desired amount in a large
+saucepan, add two or three sliced onions, one or two sliced carrots,
+three shallots, two cloves of garlic, a bunch of thyme and parsley,
+three or four cloves, two bayleaves, half a teaspoonful of capsicum, a
+wine-glass of olive oil and salt and pepper to taste. Pour over the
+above mixture two quarts of water and boil gently for half an hour, the
+pan covered. Drain and lay on a hot dish. Then mix a teaspoonful of
+saffron in the liquid, pass through a strainer into a soup tureen. Serve
+the soup with the fish and a plate of croutons of fried bread or sippets
+of toast.
+
+
+
+
+FISH À LA MARSEILLES
+
+
+The French have another fish dish which, like bouillabaisse, is
+practically a meal in itself and which in these days should be better
+known to the American table. It is a specialty in the vicinity of
+Marseilles and made there, of course, with fish peculiar to the home
+waters, but M. Auguste Gay, Chef of the Yale Club, New York, who,
+incidentally, has probably given more attention to the adaptation of
+French cookery to American requirements than any other chef, is
+authority for the statement that the following recipe produces an almost
+perfect substitute for the French dish:
+
+Chop into fine bits a small sweet Chile pepper and toss it about in a
+saucepan over the fire with a third of a cupful of olive oil or butter.
+When hot add a cupful of okra and the same amount of stewed fresh or
+canned tomatoes. Cook fifteen minutes and add a full cupful of cooked
+fresh fish--cod, haddock, etc., and a half cupful of flaked salt fish,
+mackerel, for instance. Cover and cook for twenty minutes longer and
+serve with water crackers.
+
+
+
+
+GENERAL CONSIDERATIONS
+
+
+One secret of the French cook's superiority to the American in preparing
+fish is that the former has almost a congenital knowledge of his
+subject. To him all fish is not just fish. He differentiates sharply as
+to species, tempering his treatment to varied requirements.
+
+Roughly, there are two classes of fish: those which have dark flesh or
+flesh with a pinkish tone which is streaked with fat, and those which
+have white, firm flesh and are the more digestible. Best known in the
+first class are shad, butterfish, bluefish, salmon, mackerel and
+sturgeon, and in the second, cod, halibut, flounder, trout, rock and sea
+bass, pompano, weakfish and perch.
+
+One matter-of-course rule is that no fish of whatever kind shall be
+allowed to enter the kitchen unless it is perfectly fresh. To be sure
+of this see that the gills are bright and shining and the flesh firm,
+not readily separating from the bones. That settled, you have an almost
+endless choice of ways of cooking.
+
+Fish may be boiled, broiled, fried, baked, planked, creamed, steamed,
+cooked en casserole, jellied or pickled, but of all these ways none
+produces quite the universally satisfactory results with a sizable fish
+that planking does, and planking is not more difficult or expensive than
+other methods.
+
+All that is required in the way of accoutrements is a half-inch-thick
+hardwood board which is heated in advance in the oven when planked fish
+is to figure on the menu. Then having thoroughly cleaned the fish,
+removed its head and tail, split it up the back half through the bone so
+that it will open out flat, brush it with butter and season with pepper
+and salt, place it skin-side down on the board.
+
+Put it in the oven and when it is done, which can be easily ascertained
+by lifting a bit of the flesh, you, being American, may garnish the
+board with mashed and seasoned potatoes, set the board back in the oven
+till the potatoes are browned and serve. The French, on taking the
+cooked fish from the oven, merely brush it with a little oil or melted
+butter, squeeze some lemon juice over, sprinkle a few bits of parsley
+about, and send the fish thus to the table.
+
+Small fish, such as perch, smelts, etc., are best fried in deep fat or
+its substitute, first being dipped in egg and rolled in fine cracker or
+breadcrumbs, then served with a Sauce Mousseline, mashed potatoes or
+boiled new ones, and a crisp salad.
+
+This Sauce Mousseline is made by beating two eggs in a saucepan, adding
+a cupful of top milk, butter the size of a walnut and pepper and salt,
+then stirring over the fire till it begins to thicken. When of the
+proper consistency, add a tablespoonful of lemon juice and it is ready
+for the table.
+
+A tart sauce for boiled fish that is much favored in the south of France
+but which, if it has ever crossed the water, has kept its arrival very
+quiet, is quite simply made and will be much liked as a decided change.
+To make it dissolve a tablespoonful of powdered mustard in a half cupful
+of fish stock and add two tablespoonfuls of white wine vinegar by
+preference, though other vinegar will do. Let this come to a boil, add
+two or three slices of lemon and boil a few minutes longer. Take from
+the fire and add two eggs that have been beaten with a teaspoonful of
+water. Season with salt and pepper and heat again but do not allow to
+boil.
+
+
+
+
+ [ Transcriber's Note:
+
+ The following is a list of corrections made to the original. The first
+ line is the original line, the second the corrected one.
+
+ vinegars, Worchestershire and many another flavoring designed to give a
+ vinegars, Worcestershire and many another flavoring designed to give a
+
+ left of the morn ng cereal except to the advantage of some later made
+ left of the morning cereal except to the advantage of some later made
+
+ over a moderate fire and add to it chopped parsely and chives, or
+ over a moderate fire and add to it chopped parsley and chives, or
+
+ a boil and mix in two or three tablespoonsfuls of grated Parmesan cheese.
+ a boil and mix in two or three tablespoonfuls of grated Parmesan cheese.
+
+ fish, cover in the kettle with cold water and, plenty of salt. Bring
+ fish, cover in the kettle with cold water and plenty of salt. Bring
+
+ and moisten with hot water, then add a few drops of vinegar a dash of
+ and moisten with hot water, then add a few drops of vinegar, a dash of
+
+ on each side of the bone, duct with pepper and salt, dip in flour,
+ on each side of the bone, dust with pepper and salt, dip in flour,
+
+ parsely, salt and paprika, and serve with a rich wine jelly on a
+ parsley, salt and paprika, and serve with a rich wine jelly on a
+
+ please an American palate fully as well as the crevettes.
+ please an American palate fully as well as the crevettes.)
+
+ say, "is the soul of the salad."
+ say, "is the soul of the salad.")
+
+ ]
+
+
+
+
+
+
+End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Twenty-four Little French Dinners and
+How to Cook and Serve Them, by Cora Moore
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