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diff --git a/.gitattributes b/.gitattributes new file mode 100644 index 0000000..6833f05 --- /dev/null +++ b/.gitattributes @@ -0,0 +1,3 @@ +* text=auto +*.txt text +*.md text diff --git a/29970-0.txt b/29970-0.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..901dd4b --- /dev/null +++ b/29970-0.txt @@ -0,0 +1,2578 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Twenty-four Little French Dinners and How +to Cook and Serve Them, by Cora Moore + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Twenty-four Little French Dinners and How to Cook and Serve Them + +Author: Cora Moore + +Release Date: September 12, 2009 [EBook #29970] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: UTF-8 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 24 LITTLE FRENCH DINNERS *** + + + + +Produced by Jana Srna and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was +produced from images generously made available by The +Internet Archive/American Libraries.) + + + + + + + + + + [ Transcriber's Note: + Every effort has been made to replicate this text as faithfully as + possible, including inconsistencies in spelling and hyphenation; + changes (corrections of spelling and punctuation) made to the + original text are listed at the end of this file. + ] + + + + + TWENTY-FOUR LITTLE + FRENCH DINNERS + AND + How to Cook and Serve Them + + BY + + CORA MOORE + + NEW YORK + E. P. DUTTON & COMPANY + 681 Fifth Avenue + + + Copyright 1919, by + E. P. DUTTON & COMPANY + + All Rights Reserved + + Printed in the United States of America + + + + +PREFACE + + +The Little Dinners of Paris are world-famous. No one can have sojourned +in the fascinating capital in its normal days without having come under +their spell. To Parisien and visitor alike they are accounted among the +uniquely characteristic features of the city's routine life. + +Much of the interest that attaches to them is, of course, due to local +atmosphere, to the associations that surround the quaint restaurants, +half hidden in unexpected nooks and by-ways, to the fact that old +Jacques "waits" in his shirtsleeves or that Grosse Marie serves you with +a smile as expansive as her own proportions, or that it is Justin or +François or "Old Monsoor," with his eternal grouch, who glides about the +zinc counter. + +But there is also magic in the arrangement of the menus, in the +combinations of food, in the very names of the confections and in the +little Gallic touches that, simple though they are, transform +commonplace dishes into gastronomic delights. + +There is inspiration in the art that enters into the production of a +French dinner, in the perfect balance of every item from hors d'Å“uvre to +café noir, in the ways with seasoning that work miracles with left-overs +and preserve the daily routine of three meals a day from the deadly +monotony of the American régime, in the garnishings that glorify the +most insignificant concoctions into objects of appetising beauty and in +the sauces that elevate indifferent dishes into the realm of creations +and enable a French cook to turn out a dinner fit for capricious young +gods from what an American cook wastes in preparing one. + +The very economy of the French is an art, and there is art in their +economy. It is true that their dishes, as we have known them in this +country, are expensive, even extravagant, but that is because they have +been for the most part the creations of high-priced chefs. They who have +made eating an avocation know that it is not necessary to dine +expensively in order to dine well. + + C. M. + +New York, May, 1919. + + + + +CONTENTS + + + PAGE + + Preface v + + The Bugbear of American Cookery--Monotony 1 + + Flavor--Handmaid of Variety 9 + + True Trails toward Economy 15 + + The Appeal to the Eye 21 + + Sauces, Simple and Otherwise 25 + + Twenty-four Little French Dinners 33 + (With Directions for Preparing) + + Let Us Eat Fish! 109 + + + + + TWENTY-FOUR LITTLE + FRENCH DINNERS + AND + How to Cook and Serve Them + + + + +THE BUGBEAR OF AMERICAN COOKERY--MONOTONY + + +It is as strange as it is true that with the supplies that have lately +proved sufficient to feed a world to draw upon the chief trouble with +American cookery is its monotony. The American cook has a wider variety +of foods at his command than any other in the world, yet in the average +home how rarely is it that the palate is surprised with a flavor that +didn't have its turn on the corresponding day last week or tickled with +a sauce that is in itself an inspiration and a delight, not a mere +"gravy," liable to harden into lumps of grease when it cools. + +Most of this is simply the result of blindly following tradition. +Daughter has accepted mother's precepts, regarding them even as the law +of the Medes and the Persians, "which altereth not," and if it were not +that increased prices and, lately, at least, "food regulations," have +veritably compelled her toward a more wholesome simplicity, the United +States would probably be what it was called half a generation ago, "a +nation of dyspeptics." And we were a nation of dyspeptics because the +great American mother of the latter end of the Nineteenth Century, in +spite of all her unequaled qualities in every other direction, and in +spite of all the encomiums she received in resounding prose or ecstatic +verse for her prowess in the kitchen, was from the points of view of +health, economy and wisdom the worst cook in the world. + +With prices as they are the American housewife cannot afford to use +butter and eggs and flour with the prodigality that was a habit with her +mother, but so limited is the average woman's knowledge of cookery that +these restrictions merely mean more monotony than ever. It is partly to +demonstrate that this state of things is unnecessary and that true food +economy is not at all synonymous with "going without" that this book has +been compiled. + +It is upon variety that the French cook confidently relies to make each +dish of each meal not just something to eat because her family must have +food, not merely a sop to the Cerberus-gnawings of hunger, but a delight +to the eye, to the palate, to the stomach--truly a consummation devoutly +to be wished for the American home table, and just as possible to attain +as it is possible to procure from the grocer or the nearest pharmacist +the ingredients by which these wonders are wrought. + +But the average American woman doesn't look beyond her own kitchen and +her own traditional row of spice boxes for her flavorings. She has her +"kitchen set," which ordinarily comprises a row of little receptacles +labeled "pepper," "salt," "cloves," "allspice," "ginger," "cinnamon," +"nutmeg," and possibly one or two other spices or condiments--rarely +more. With these and a bottle each of lemon extract and vanilla, she is +satisfied that she is fully equipped as far as flavoring possibilities +are concerned. + +If she has laid in a box of sage and one of mixed dressing with, +perhaps, some paprika and thyme, she views her foresightedness with much +complacency. She is supplied with savories. + +Then she goes right on sighing, "Oh, for a new meat, instead of the same +old round of mutton, pork, beef and fish; fish, beef, mutton and pork," +disclaiming utterly any responsibility for the monotony that is +undermining the family health and temper and, quite possibly, its +morals. + +That is where the American housewife makes her primary and most +important mistake. The French, on the other hand, know that there are, +literally, hundreds of ways to vary every dish, however ordinary it may +be in its primary state. That is their secret of success: unfailing +variety coupled with economy. + +However, this is not to claim that the American palate would take kindly +to all the French cooks' little delicacies, or that it could be +cultivated to that degree that makes a Frenchman regard a perfectly +balanced meal even as an inspired poem. + +Probably Americans, as a class, could never be induced to eat some of +the little birds--the _mauviettes_, the _alouettes_, the sparrows baked +in a pie, that so delight the Frenchman. Also, it is a question whether +snails, even if it were possible to obtain the superior Burgundian, fat +and juicy and cooked even as our own Oscar used to prepare them for +certain Waldorf guests, would ever appeal to the American taste, as even +the common hedgerow sort of snail does to the average Frenchman. + +It is not that the French dinners of Monte Carlo are necessarily so +superior to American shore dinners, or that the little dinners of Paris +are so infinitely to be preferred to those, say, of certain places in +New Orleans, or that the coppery-tasting oysters of Havre are to be +compared with those of our own Baltimore. There is no more to be said, +probably, for the woodcock patés of old Montreuil, or the _rillettes_ of +Tours, or the little pots of custard one gets at the foreign Montpelier, +or the _vol-au-vent_, which is the pride and boast of the cities of +Provence, than there is for grandmother's cookies such as have put +Camden, Maine, on the map, or Lady Baltimore cakes, or the chicken pies +one goes to northern New Hampshire to find in their glory, or the +turkeys that, as much as the Green Mountains, make Vermont's fame. + +Still, there is no question but that the American palate would benefit +much by being cultivated, not only in the interests of economy, but also +with a view to the increase of gastronomic pleasure, for a taste attuned +to many variations is as an ear sensitive to the nuances of sweet sounds +or an eye trained to perceive delicate tones and tints. It is really a +matter for regret that we, as a people, have not been as willing to +learn from the French the art of cooking and eating as we have been to +acquire from them knowledge of the art of dress. Until we widen our +horizon sufficiently to do this, we have not even begun to develop all +our food resources or to understand the first principles of true food +economy--which is not at all synonymous with "going without." + + + + +FLAVOR, HANDMAID OF VARIETY + + +It is because he has a multitude of seasonings at his command and knows +how to use them that the French cook is enabled not only to send to the +table an infinite variety of dishes, but, at the same time, to practice +economies that were otherwise impossible. The American buys an expensive +cut of meat and, as is right in such a case, treats it as plainly and +simply as possible. The Frenchman buys meat of a much lower quality, but +so embellishes it that when it comes to the table it is superior, or, at +least, equal to that which costs much more. + +It may be objected that this is no real economy, because by the time the +French cook has sauced and spiced his cheap cut in order to make it +palatable, the cost is as great, if not greater than it would have been +had he paid more for his meat in the first place. This would be true +enough according to the average American's method of procedure. But it +is to be remembered that the French cook has already in his kitchen the +cooking vinegars, the spices, the dried herbs, the extracts, that in +very small amounts--a dash or a few leaves--are used at a time; also, +that in a great number of cases, gravies and sauces are made from the +by-products of the main dishes--those by-products that in the American +kitchen usually go down the sink-drain or into the garbage pail. + +Take a peep into the typical French cupboard. There you will find from +twenty-five to thirty liquid seasonings such as anchovy extract, tobasco +sauce, meat extracts, mushroom catsup, tomato paste, chutney, various +vinegars, Worcestershire and many another flavoring designed to give a +tang and a zest even to the most unpromising dish, if used aright. There +you will find, too, fifty or more dry seasonings, including anise, +basil, saffron, savoury, clove or garlic, cassia buds, bay leaf, ginger +root, pepper-corns, marjoram, mint, thyme, capers and so on. + +Herein lie the "secrets" of French cookery which are, in truth, not +secrets at all, but merely the application of common sense to the +cuisine. The French have never allowed their taste to be restricted by +prejudice, so they hail a new flavor with delight rather than +registering an instinctive dislike because it is not familiar. With a +little applied education, Americans can bring the charm of the French +table to their own homes rather than when they are, as they say, tired +of the same old round of "eats," seeking out a nondescript table d'hôte +restaurant and eagerly consuming what is set before them, grateful for a +change. + +But don't harden your heart against French cookery merely because you +have sampled it, as you fondly think, at one or another of the +"red-inkeries" of New York or any other city. For the most part the +"French" restaurants of the land are in reality not French at all, but +Italian for the most part, and whatever Gallic flavor the remainder ever +possessed has well-nigh vanished. There may be exceptions but, if there +are, their patrons carefully guard the secret. + +But to return to our subject: It is the French cook's knowledge of the +subtleties, the nuances of seasoning that stands him in good stead. The +American woman who has essayed to use some spice or savory unfamiliar to +her and has turned out a dish which her family has declared "tasted like +medicine" is, naturally enough, discouraged from wandering after that +particular strange god again. The truth is that she has overdone the +seasoning. She doesn't want to be parsimonious, which is just what the +French cook is with his flavors, only he, more scientifically, calls it +using good judgment. If he uses garlic in a salad, it doesn't +necessarily follow that the entire household must take on the +atmosphere of an Italian barber shop, for he uses garlic or onion, not +to give their flavor to a dish, but to bring out the flavors of the +vegetables with which they are used. + +Vanilla and lemon have an almost universal appeal to the palate, and +knowing this, the American cook, like the generation before her, has +always seasoned her rice puddings, for instance, with one or the other, +just as her apple sauce has invariably been flavored with lemon or +nutmeg, her bread pudding with vanilla, and so all along her restricted +line. + +The French cook holds no brief against vanilla, and sometimes he flavors +his rice pudding with it, but he so guides matters that the very sight +or mention of rice pudding does not bring the thought of vanilla to the +mind, for with him it may be flavored with pistache or rose or have a +geranium leaf baked in it, giving a delightful, indescribable flavor. An +ordinary bread pudding becomes veritably a queen of puddings as, +indeed, it is called, merely by having a layer of jam through its center +and a simple icing spread over the top. Ordinary pea soup exhibits +chameleon-like possibilities merely through the addition of a little +celery-root, a dash of curry or the admixture of a few spoonfuls of +minced spinach, and tomato soup has for most an appeal that even this +favorite of soups never had before when just the right amount of thyme +is added while it simmers, along with, perhaps a bayleaf. + +In the recipes appended to the little dinners in this book a great many +of the French cooks' materials and methods of procedure are set forth. +But if the ordinarily experimental American housewife has the flavorings +on hand, she will doubtless herself contrive many an alluring dish of +her own. Variety is said to be the spice of life. However that may be, +the spices and their friends, the herbs, certainly make for variety in +that important function of life, the dinner table. + + + + +TRUE TRAILS TOWARD ECONOMY + + +In the first place, no trail toward economy in conducting the cuisine of +a household lies through the delicatessen store or the "fancy" grocery. +It is an unflattering comment on the spirit of thrift of American +housewives that the delicatessen store has settled down to such a +flourishing existence, particularly in Eastern cities. Any woman who +possesses a stove and a kitchen of her own should be ashamed to admit +the laziness that more than a semi-occasional visit to these "delicate +eating" places predicates. There are few things to be had in them that +she shouldn't be able to make better at home and at a cost that is but a +fraction of what she has to pay for the usually inferior, impersonal +messes that come ready-made. + +If the housewife has read some of the very excellent instructions that +were printed to help her conduct her household adequately amid the +necessary limitations of wartime, she already knows that there is +absolutely no excuse for ever throwing away a crust or crumb of bread. +As for that, neither is there any excuse for ever disposing of what is +left of the morning cereal except to the advantage of some later made +dish, or of consigning meat scraps or bits of fat or even bones to the +garbage pail. It is not only that, in the interests of economy, she +should use them; it is rather that if she is a good cook she will be +very glad to have them to use. + +Stale bread and breadcrumbs are the bases of a score of the most +delicious puddings on the French cook's card; cooked cereal is one of +the best thickenings for soups and gravies, as well as being far more +wholesome than flour for this purpose; meat scraps, trimmings and bones +should go into the stock pot. When a soup made of these is served as the +introductory course at dinner it will be found that the family will be +fully satisfied with much less meat, and it is in the lessening +dependence of Americans on meat that will make for the greatest item in +economy. + +A French cook of parts would tear his hair if he could see how fats and +drippings from meats are thrown away in many an American kitchen. They +are poured into the sink till the drain pipes clog and, to complete the +little serial of extravagance, the plumber has to be called. The French +cook knows that this is the finest grease for frying in the world and +that its use would save many a pound of butter. He strains it all +carefully and keeps the different sorts in labelled jars or crocks. He +knows by experience what particular fats give the best flavors to +certain things, and he knows that vegetables, fish, eggs, pancakes and +what not are far better fried in these natural fats. Who that ever ate +an egg fried in bacon drippings will ever want one cooked in butter, +even at a dollar a pound! + +One will not find the delicatessen flourishing in France--one will not +find it at all--and the fancy grocery, above mentioned, is another +pitfall for the American housewife. She likes the sight of food done up +in fancy containers, in glass, perhaps, and buys them, not realizing +that she is paying a large price for perfectly unnecessary and totally +unnourishing "pretties." If she is fearful of the handling some loose +food stuffs may be subjected to in the stores, why does she not practice +the most practical economy, go to the fountain-head of supplies in the +city, the large market, and buy in quantity, so far as she can? A few +ounces of bacon, already sliced, and sealed in a glass dish are, indeed, +appetising even in their raw state, while a side of bacon is not, unless +looked upon through the eyes of imagination, yet the latter method of +purchasing this commodity is two or three hundred per cent cheaper, and +when it arrives at the breakfast table it will be found every bit as +appealing to a happy morning appetite. + +Any consideration of economy in the cuisine must include the meat +problem. Meat is the most expensive item on the menu and the true +solution of the question is not only to conserve all the uses of it but +to eat much less. That would make not only for economy, but for better +health as well. + +It has been estimated that 186 pounds of dressed meat is--or was prior +to the war--the yearly average of consumption for every American; the +Englishman being a good second with his 120 pounds, while the Frenchman +remained perfectly contented and healthy with 79 pounds, the Italian +with 72 pounds, and the Swiss, anything but a nation of invalids, +managed very well on 60 pounds per person. + +This is no plea for vegetarianism, though it may be said in passing for +the benefit of those who think that good red blood and hardy muscle are +to be obtained only by absorbing the red blood and muscle of the beasts +of the field, that there is as much, if not more, of this building +power in the beans, the peas, the lentils that we regard too often as +mere secondary foods. + +Most of all the American should take advantage of the great stores of +fish which are equally as nourishing as meat and may easily be made as +appetising with simple sauces that French cookery will teach us. Fish +are cheap; at least, many neglected kinds are; they are easy to cook and +they are one of the best foods in the world. + + + + +THE APPEAL TO THE EYE + + +No one, least of all the French cook, calculates to feast the eye at the +expense of the sense of taste, yet it is his experience after long years +that good digestion is much more likely to wait upon the appetite that +has been stirred to a preliminary enthusiasm by the attractive +appearance of a dish. So they serve little fritters of vegetables, dabs +of jelly, slices of hard boiled eggs, pickles, parsley, cress and +nasturtiums with meats, put sprigs of fresh green in their gravies, +decorate desserts with nut-meats, flowers and fruits, and in so doing +add a bit to the gayety of the table, satisfied that the trifling extra +expense, time and energy incurred is more than compensated for in the +pleasure the results afford. A fair trial of this pleasant idiosyncrasy +of the French is convincing that the appearance of a dish has more +bearing on the relish of a meal than we over here have fully realized. + +They are particular, however, to be consistent in the use of +garnishings. Flowers and fruits are reserved for sweet dishes, except in +the case of nasturtiums, which they regard as much a vegetable as a +flower and use freely with meats. + +A stew or a creamed dish is merely a more or less indifferent something +to eat when it is dished up any old way and set upon the table. But if +it is heaped daintily on a pretty platter, surrounded by a ring of brown +mashed potato, its sides decorated by dainty shapes of toasted bread, +perhaps buttered and sprinkled with minced parsley, it has become +something to awaken the slumbering or indifferent appetite and at +practically no extra expense of time or money. + +If the yolks of two hard boiled eggs are minced and mixed with part of +the raw white of one, the paste then formed into balls like marbles and +dropped into boiling water, one has little yellow spheres to lend an +enlivening color note to clear soups. Two or three of these dropped into +each plate just before serving makes a pleasing change from the usual +croutons. + +Sprigs of fresh chickory make the daintiest of garnishes for cold meats, +and a few of the tender green stalks will add to the appearance of +practically any salad. As for water-cress and pepper-grass and, of +course, parsley, minced and otherwise, no French chef would think of +preparing a meal without a plentiful supply of them on hand. + +It isn't essential that every dish should be turned into an elaborate +work of art, as if it were to be entered at the annual exhibition of the +Société des Chefs de Cuisine, but neither is there any reason, even with +modest means at command, for giving cause for that old slogan of the +great American dinner table: "It tastes better than it looks." + + + + +SAUCES, SIMPLE AND OTHERWISE + + +Brillat-Savarin, who would be remembered as a wit had he not been even +more brilliant as a chef, paid his respects to the English by saying +they were a nation of a hundred religions and only one sauce. Being a +true Frenchman he believed a reversal of the numbers better for the +soul. It is certainly better for the appetite. + +To be sure the proper mental sauce for a good dinner is wit, and the +best physical one, hunger, but as we all of us have more or less of an +Epicurean strain in us and do not eat solely to satisfy bodily needs, it +is well that the American cook who essays to bring variety to her board +should have some knowledge of those Gallic creations, the sauces, by +which she is enabled to transform plain dishes into seemingly +pretentious ones, even though she never attain that sauce that Balzac +knew, "in which a mother might unsuspectingly eat her own child." + +In the first place every French chef keeps three kinds of what he calls +_roux_ on hand, ready for making meat and fish sauces. These are made by +cooking together eight ounces of butter and nine ounces of flour. That +intended for use with brown meats is stirred together till it becomes a +medium brown in shade; white _roux_ is cooked only sufficiently to +banish the raw taste and not allowed to color, while pale _roux_ is kept +over the fire just long enough to attain a deep cream color. These are +mixed with milk, soup stock, water or gravy as the case may be when a +sauce for fish, meat or vegetables is needed. + +For instance, to make _Sauce à la Crème_, for use with white entrées, +take two tablespoonfuls of the white _roux_ in a saucepan with a cup of +milk and a tablespoonful each of finely chopped parsley, shallots and +chives. Boil fifteen minutes, pass through a colander into another +saucepan, add a small lump of butter, more finely chopped parsley and +salt and pepper. Mix well with a wooden spoon and it is ready for the +table. + +To make a favorite _Sauce Piquante_, cut two onions into slices, also a +carrot and two shallots and put into a saucepan with a scant +tablespoonful of butter. While heating over a moderate fire, add a sprig +of thyme, a tablespoonful of minced parsley, a bayleaf and two or three +cloves. When the onions are golden brown add a tablespoonful of flour, a +little plain stock and a tablespoonful of vinegar. Boil again, pass +through a sieve and season with salt and pepper. + +A simple sauce is that _Maître d'Hôtel_, which is rarely made at home +though so generally liked. Put a lump of butter into a small saucepan +over a moderate fire and add to it chopped parsley and chives, or +parsley alone. Season with salt and pepper and a little lemon juice and +while it is sizzling pour over the hot steak or fish. + +_Sauce d'Anchois_, than which there isn't anything better with baked +fish, is also easy to make. Take three or four anchovies and mash them +up well with two tablespoonfuls of butter. Now make about a pint of +brown sauce with brown _roux_ and milk, and stir the anchovy butter into +it. Just before taking from the fire add the juice of half a lemon or +more, according to taste. + +_Sauce Bearnaise_ was a favorite of Henry of Navarre, and it is +excellent with steaks, chops and, particularly, roast beef. To make it +beat the yolks of three or four eggs in a saucepan, add a tablespoonful +of butter and a little salt. Stir over a slow fire till the eggs begin +to thicken, then remove and stir in two more tablespoonfuls of butter, +stirring till the butter is dissolved. Season with chopped fine herbs +and parsley and pour in a teaspoonful of French vinegar. + +In many parts of France they have a favorite dressing for boiled fish +called _Sauce Ravigote_. To make it mix half a pint of stock in a +saucepan with a small amount of white wine or cider, then chop fine +herbs such as chervil, tarragon, chives and parsley, or whatever other +herbs are in season, to the amount of about three tablespoonfuls, and +mix with the stock, adding salt and pepper. Stew gently for about twenty +minutes, then blend a tablespoonful each of flour and butter, stir into +the sauce and continue to stir till thick. Just before serving squeeze +in the juice of half a lemon. + +The word "_Ravigote_" means, literally, "pick me up," and it is applied +to minced tarragon, chervil, chives and parsley, the herbs being kept +separate and served with salad on four little saucers. _Ravigote_ +butter, made by kneading butter with the four herbs and adding pepper, +salt and lemon juice, spread between thin slices of bread, makes +delicious sandwiches. + +To make the very generally liked _Sauce Blanquette_, which is used to +raise cold meats to the dignity of a fricassée, take about four ounces +of pale _roux_, thin slightly with boiling water added by degrees, then +put in a bunch of sweet herbs, cooked button mushrooms and small onions +and pepper and salt to taste. Put in whatever cold meat you have, cook +till it is well heated and serve. + +The following is called _Sauce d'Havre_, and through the use of it it +will be discovered that the taste of curry is an agreeable one in many +another case than in connection with the veal and rice arrangement to +which most American cooks restrict it. Peel and slice four onions and +two apples and place in a stewpan with four ounces of butter, six +peppercorns, a sprig of thyme, two bayleaves and a blade of mace. When +the onions have become slightly brown over the moderate fire, stir in a +mixture of two tablespoonfuls of flour and the same amount of curry +powder, shortly afterward adding six gills of white stock and half a +pint of white sauce. Season with salt and half a teaspoonful of moist +sugar, boil for a quarter of an hour, adding more white stock if +necessary, and stirring constantly. Put through a strainer into another +saucepan, boil up again, skim, and use when required. + +Fricasseed chicken takes on a new glory when it is prepared with _Sauce +Lyons_. This is made by stirring gradually three well-beaten eggs into +half a pint of plain white sauce, then placing the mixture in a jar and +standing in boiling water till the sauce thickens. Just prior to pouring +over the chicken add the strained juice of half a lemon. + + + + +TWENTY-FOUR LITTLE FRENCH DINNERS + + + + +I + + +MENU + + Potage à la Duchesse + Cabillaud à la Bechamel + Pommes de Terre, Genevoise + Salade Celeri + Pouding à la Vanille + + +=Potage à la Duchesse.=--Butter a baking sheet, cover with four ounces +of chou paste, cook in the oven for six minutes, then cover the paste +with forcemeat in small lumps, a little distance apart. Cut the paste +into twelve equal sized pieces, each piece holding a lump of the +forcemeat, place in a tureen, pour over a quart of piping hot consommé +and serve. + +=Cabillaud à la Bechamel.=--Mix an ounce of flour with an ounce and a +half of butter melted in a saucepan, then gradually add a pint of milk +which has been allowed previously to simmer with a minced onion and +carrot in it, also a bunch of sweet herbs, two or three cloves, a +grating of nutmeg and pepper and salt. Bring to a boil, add two or three +tablespoonfuls of cream, strain and put back into the saucepan. Now put +in two or three pounds of cod, previously boiled and flaked, being +thoroughly free from skin and bones. Shake all together very gently and +when all is thoroughly hot, turn out onto a silver dish and garnish with +sliced hard-boiled eggs. + +=Pommes de Terre, Genevoise.=--Shred four medium sized boiled potatoes, +season with a little salt and pepper. Butter lightly half a dozen +tartlet moulds, cover the bottoms with grated Parmesan cheese, arrange +in each a layer of potatoes, then another sprinkling of cheese, and so +on till the moulds are filled. Put a little butter on top. Place on a +very hot stove or in a very hot oven for fifteen minutes to half an +hour. Serve on a hot dish in the moulds. + +=Salade Celeri.=--Trim two or three heads of celery, cut into short +shreds, wash thoroughly in cold water and drain. Place in a salad bowl, +season with a little salt, a very little pepper and one or two +tablespoonfuls each of oil and vinegar. Add several sprigs of +pepper-grass and serve at once. + +=Pouding à la Vanille.=--Place a vanilla bean in a mortar together with +half a pound of sugar and pound well together and sift. Separate the +whites from the yolks of three eggs, beat the yolks well, stir them in +with a pint of cream and mix in with the vanilla sugar. Whisk the whites +of the eggs to a stiff froth and mix lightly in with the other +ingredients. Butter a pudding mould, pour in the mixture and cover with +a sheet of oiled paper. Stand the mould in a saucepan of boiling water +and steam the pudding for half an hour. In the meantime prepare the +following sauce: Pour a breakfast cupful of canned or fresh pineapple +juice into a lined pan with the juice of a lemon. Put this on the fire +till it boils, then pour it over a tablespoonful of arrowroot, stirring +all the time. Return the sauce to the saucepan and stir till it thickens +over the fire. When the pudding is cooked, turn it out onto a hot dish, +strain the sauce over it and serve. Be careful that no water enters the +mould containing the pudding while it is cooking, or it will be +spoiled. + + + + +II + + +MENU + + Consommé à la Napolitaine + Cabillaud à la Financière + Pommes de Terre en Rubans + Beignets à la Printemps + Choufleur au Gratin + Bavaroise au Café + + +=Consommé à la Napolitaine.=--Place in a saucepan with a lump of butter +equal quantities of finely minced carrots, turnips, a head of lettuce +and one of endive with a little chervil. Add a quart of the water in +which the cauliflower in this dinner was cooked, pepper and salt, and +simmer for an hour. Just before serving stir in the beaten yolk of an +egg and half a pint of milk. + +=Cabillaud à la Financière.=--Cook a piece of cod weighing three pounds +in salted water for twenty minutes, drain a place on a serving platter +covered with the following sauce: Put two glasses of Madeira wine and a +small piece of meat glaze in a saucepan with a pint of Spanish sauce and +a gill each of essence of mushrooms and truffles. Boil till it coats the +spoon. + +=Pommes de Terre en Rubans.=--Take large, smooth, pared potatoes and cut +round and round in spirals about an eighth of an inch thick. Keep +covered with a damp napkin till all are cut, place in a frying basket +and fry in very hot fat till a light straw color. Sprinkle freely with +salt and serve immediately. + +=Beignets à la Printemps.=--Make a sauce of two ounces of butter, four +ounces of flour, a tablespoonful of brandy, a pinch of salt, sufficient +water to make a creamy paste. Cook and, removing from the stove, work in +the whites of two eggs beaten to a stiff froth. Cut into pieces any +fruit desired, dip them in the batter and fry in butter to a light +golden brown. Drain well, place in a serving dish, sprinkle well with +powdered sugar and serve. If the fruit is not fully ripe, parboil in +syrup before using. + +=Choufleur au Gratin.=--Soak a cauliflower in water with plenty of salt, +then boil in plenty of salted water for fifteen minutes. Remove and take +away all the green leaves, lay it on a flat buttered dish, previously +rubbed with an onion, and pour over it a sauce made as follows: Melt an +ounce and a half of butter in a saucepan, add a dessertspoonful of +flour, mix and add a cup of milk. Stir till it thickens, add pepper and +salt and add two or three tablespoonfuls of grated Parmesan cheese. Mix +well and after pouring over the cauliflower sprinkle all over with +breadcrumbs and place the dish in the oven till nicely browned. + +=Bavaroise au Café.=--Mix the beaten yolks of two eggs with a pint of +milk and a cup of very strong black coffee. Bring to a boil in a +saucepan, remove from the fire and allow to get cold, stirring +occasionally. Add the yolks of two more eggs beaten stiff with two +ounces of sugar. Mix well and then add the stiffly beaten whites of the +four eggs along with half an ounce of dissolved gelatin. Pour into a +mould and turn out when set. + + + + +III + + +MENU + + Filet de Sole à la Provençal + Poulet Sauté à l'Estragon + Artichauts à la Barigoule + Petit Petac + Soufflé Georgette + + +=Filets des Soles à la Provençal.=--Sprinkle the filets with pepper and +salt and a little allspice and fry in salad oil with a finely chopped +onion and a little chopped parsley. Serve with a slice of lemon on each +filet. + +=Poulet Sauté à l'Estragon.=--Sprinkle the pieces of a cut up raw +chicken with pepper and salt and cook in a saucepan with a little oil. +Make a gravy of a cupful of clear stock in which tarragon stalks have +been boiled for an hour, dish up the fowl on a hot platter, pour over +the sauce, straining it, and sprinkle on top tarragon leaves blanched +and coarsely chopped. + +=Artichauts à la Barigoule.=--Cut off the tops and leaves of the +artichokes and boil the bottoms in plenty of slightly salted water till +tender. Scoop out the fibrous interior. Grate some cooked bacon into a +saucepan with a gill of fine herbs and a cupful of broth. Cook for five +minutes. Put a little of this mixture in each artichoke, cover the +opening with a slice of lemon and bake in a sauté-pan in the oven for +twenty minutes. + +=Petit Petac.=--Peel tiny new potatoes and sauté in oil till a golden +brown. Sprinkle with chopped parsley and serve. + +=Soufflé Georgette.=--Grate a half-dozen stale macaroons into a half-cup +of brandy, add a pint of cream and two teaspoonfuls of dissolved +gelatine. Whip in a dozen maraschino cherries and turn into a mould to +harden. Serve with macaroons dipped into the liquid that comes around +the maraschino cherries. A custard may be used in this recipe instead of +the cream. + + + + +IV + + +MENU + + Potage au Riz + Rougets en Papillotes + Veau à la Suzette + Demi tasse + + +=Potage au Riz.=--Put half a pound of well-washed rice into a saucepan +with two quarts of vegetable stock and boil till tender. When the rice +is cooked move the saucepan to the side of the fire and mix in a cupful +of stewed tomatoes and an ounce and a half of butter. Serve with sippets +of toast or croutons that have been fried in butter. + +=Rougets en Papillotes.=--This recipe is for mullets, but any small, +plump fish may be used. Make a paper case for each fish with a sheet of +well-oiled notepaper and put the cases into the oven for a few minutes +to harden. Sprinkle the under sides of the fish with pepper and salt +and lay them in their cases with a small piece of butter under and over +each. Place the cases in a baking-dish and cook for about twenty minutes +in the oven, or more if the fish are otherwise than small. Sprinkle well +with lemon juice just before serving. + +=Veau à la Suzette.=--Trim saddle of veal neatly and put it into a +saucepan with a good sized piece of butter. Turn it constantly on the +fire till it is a rich golden color all over, then put it onto a dish +and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Add more butter to the gravy in the +saucepan and put in raw potatoes cut up in sections like oranges. Cover +the saucepan and cook, shaking frequently, till the potatoes have a good +color. Add an onion, finely minced, and when it is browned, a clove of +garlic, minced very fine; next put in a tablespoonful of flour followed, +when the flour is brown, by about two cupfuls of stock. Stir well and +put back the meat and any juice that may have oozed from it. Lastly add +a bouquet of herbs, simmer for an hour at least and serve the meat +surrounded by the potatoes with the sauce poured over the whole. + + + + +V + + +MENU + + Potage à l'Américaine + Filet d'Eglefin + Gigot de Mouton aux Épinards + Chou de Mer au Fromage + Petites Crèmes au Chocolat + + +=Potage à l'Américaine.=--Parboil a medium sized cauliflower in salted +water, change the water and boil till done. Drain well and press through +a sieve. Dilute with consommé or broth. Boil a few minutes more, +stirring well. Beat up in a basin the yolk of an egg with three +tablespoonfuls of cream, add this to a few tablespoonfuls of the +cauliflower mixture, then, taking the saucepan containing the soup from +the fire, add the egg and cream mixture and stir together. Add half an +ounce of butter and serve with croutons. + +=Filet d'Eglefin.=--Cut a haddock into fillets, trimming into pieces +about six inches long. Dip them in well beaten egg and then into sifted +breadcrumbs and plunge into deep, well-boiling fat, frying to a rich +color, turning occasionally to cook both sides evenly. Remove, drain, +put on a cloth spread over a hot dish and serve with a simple white +sauce. + +=Gigot de Mouton aux Épinards.=--Roast a small leg of mutton, putting +some salt and a small quantity of water at the bottom of the tin. When +half cooked, remove the meat and carefully skim the gravy of all fat. +Return the mutton to the tin, pour gravy over it and surround it with +potatoes cut to the size of walnuts. Put back in the oven, letting the +potatoes cook in the juice of the meat. Meanwhile cook about three +pounds of spinach, drain, squeeze out all water and pass through a +sieve. Return to a saucepan in which about two ounces of butter has been +heated and season with pepper and salt. Add a tablespoonful of gravy +from the mutton and allow the spinach to simmer till the meat is done. +Then pile the spinach with the potatoes about the meat and serve, having +the gravy in a sauceboat. + +=Chou de Mer au Fromage.=--Carefully wash sea-kale to remove grit, +remove any black parts from the roots and tie up the shoots in small +bundles. Cook in boiling salted water for twenty minutes, drain and keep +hot. Mix on the fire an ounce of butter and a tablespoonful of flour, +moisten with half a cup of water in which the kale was cooked, bring to +a boil and mix in two or three tablespoonfuls of grated Parmesan cheese. +Take from the fire and add the beaten yolk of an egg. Arrange the kale +on a hot dish, pour the sauce over and serve immediately. + +=Petites Crèmes au Chocolat.=--Mix two tablespoonfuls of chocolate or +cocoa in a cup of boiling milk and sweeten to taste. When nearly cold +add to this the yolks of two eggs, well beaten, and a gill of heavy +cream. Mix thoroughly and strain into china cases. Place these in a +large shallow stewpan containing just sufficient water to reach half way +up on the cases. Let steam for twenty minutes, when the custard ought to +be firm. The water should be boiling when the cases are first put in, +but afterwards may simmer. Put the cases on ice, and serve as cold as +possible with little sponge cakes or lady fingers. + + + + +VI + + +MENU + + Potage purée de Pois Secs + Saumon à la Hollandaise + Pommes de Terre, Barigoule + Haricots verts au riz tomate + + +=Potage Purée de Pois Secs.=--Boil a pint of green peas in three pints +of water with a piece of fat ham or bacon, two carrots, an onion, a +leek, a bayleaf, some parsley, pepper and salt. Allow to simmer two or +three hours, stirring occasionally. Pass the peas and onions through a +hair sieve and add the strained liquor. Return to the saucepan, boil up, +add some whole cooked peas with a little mint and serve. + +=Saumon à la Hollandaise.=--Cut a piece of salmon from the middle of the +fish, cover in the kettle with cold water and plenty of salt. Bring +slowly to a boil, removing scum, and allow to simmer till the fish is +done. Drain thoroughly and serve with the following sauce in a boat: +Take three ounces of butter, the yolks of two eggs and put them in a +double boiler over the fire, stirring briskly till the butter is +dissolved. Mix in a scant ounce of flour, stir well and add the juice of +a lemon, half a pint of milk, a little grated nutmeg and pepper and +salt. Stir constantly till the sauce thickens to the consistency of a +custard. + +=Pommes de Terre, Barigoule.=--Place ten potatoes in a saucepan with +enough broth to cover them and boil slowly till done. Drain, taking care +not to break them. Put a teacupful of olive oil into a deep frying pan, +heat, put in the potatoes, tossing them till they are browned all over +lightly. Place on a dish and sprinkle with salt, pepper and vinegar. +Serve piping hot. + +=Haricots verts au riz tomate.=--Boil rice carefully so that every grain +will be separate, toss it in a little butter and moisten with tomato +sauce and add the yolk of an egg, well beaten and stirred in, and a +little Parmesan cheese. Make a border of the rice on a dish and pile in +the center some French beans plainly boiled and tossed in a little +butter with some pepper and salt. + + + + +VII + + +MENU + + Potage Velouté + Brochet à la Tartare + Biftecks sautés aux Olives + Pommes de Terre à la Lyonnaise + Épinards au Gratin + Beignets Soufflés + + +=Potage Velouté.=--Boil a cup and a half of tapioca in two quarts of +water and season with salt and pepper. At the bottom of a tureen place a +lump of butter, and the yolks of two eggs, pour the tapioca over while +it is still boiling, add a pint of hot milk and serve. + +=Brochet à la Tartare.=--Cut a fresh pike into slices and marinade each +slice separately with a sauce made of sufficient olive oil, black +pepper, a minced onion, finely cut mushrooms and chopped parsley. Cover +the fish with breadcrumbs and broil, brushing occasionally with the +marinade. When it is a golden color remove from the fire, place on a hot +platter and serve sprinkled with parsley with a tartar sauce in a +sauceboat. + +=Biftecks sautés aux Olives.=--Cut the steak into six pieces and toss in +a frying pan with lard. When well done sprinkle with seasoning and +remove from the fire. Then take half a glass of white wine, a +tablespoonful of consommé, two or three dozen green olives, with the +pits removed, and boil together for a few minutes. Set the steak in a +crown on the platter and in the center place the dressing. Pour the +gravy from the frying pan over all and serve. + +=Pommes de Terre à la Lyonnaise.=--Take a dozen potatoes of the same +size, cut into pieces the size of a quarter of a dollar, roll in flour +and put into a frying pan with boiling fat, taking them out when they +are a golden brown. Also fry some thin slices of onion, mix with the +potatoes, sprinkle with salt and serve garnished with parsley. + +=Épinards au Gratin.=--Boil two pounds of spinach and chop very fine. +Beat up two eggs to each pound of spinach, mix with it and sprinkle the +whole with breadcrumbs. Pour over some olive oil or melted butter and +heat thoroughly in the oven in a vegetable dish. + +=Beignets Soufflés.=--Put a pound of flour, a pinch of salt, a liquor +glass of rum, the yolks of three eggs and a quantity of lukewarm water +into a mixing dish and beat these together till it shrinks from the +dish. Then mix in the well-beaten whites of the eggs and then allow to +rise for an hour or so. Have a baking dish very hot and put in the paste +in pieces the size of a nut, which will triple in size while cooking. +Let them cook to a golden color, remove from the fire and sprinkle with +powdered sugar. Serve hot. + + + + +VIII + + +MENU + + Consommé Royale + Filet de Sole à la Vénétienne + Salade Barbe de Capucin + Beignets de Pêches + + +=Consommé Royale.=--Beat two eggs and mix them with half a cup of milk +and a pinch of salt. Pour into a basin, stand this in a larger one +containing hot water, place in the oven and bake till the contents of +the small basin are firm, renewing water in the larger dish if +necessary. Allow to cool and when set cut into small well-shaped pieces, +pour over them a quart of hot consommé and serve immediately. + +=Filet de Sole à la Vénétienne.=--Place in a buttered tin two small or +one large onion cut in thin slices, a little chopped parsley, a bayleaf, +one or two whole cloves and salt and pepper. Lay the fillets of two +soles on these with a generous piece of butter, pour over half a pint of +white stock and a small glass of white wine. Cover the tin with oiled +paper, and bake in the oven for about twelve minutes. When the fish is +cooked take out all the liquor except just enough to keep the fish moist +as it remains in the oven turned very low, strain it and add +three-quarters of an ounce of flour and the same amount of butter. Bring +the sauce to a boil, take it from the fire, add the yolk of an egg and a +good amount of blanched parsley and chervil, chopped very fine. Arrange +the fillets of sole on a hot dish, pour the sauce over and serve. + +=Salade Barbe de Capucin.=--Carefully pick over and break into +convenient pieces the required amount of chicory and place in a salad +bowl well rubbed with an onion. Just before serving pour over a French +dressing, remembering to be in making it "a spendthrift for oil, a miser +for vinegar, a counselor for salt and a madman to stir it all up." + +=Beignets des Pêches.=--Peel, stone and cut in halves some firm peaches. +Toss about in a bowl with sugar, being careful not to break. Put a pound +of flour in a basin and stir in gradually half a pint of water. Mix the +whites of two stiffly beaten eggs with this batter and then add one and +a quarter ounces of melted butter. Bring olive oil to a good heat in a +frying pan, dip each piece of peach in the batter and fry in the fat. +When lightly browned drain on a cloth or paper, lay on a baking dish, +sift powdered sugar over and glaze by placing in a hot oven a few +minutes. Arrange in pyramid shape on a folded napkin on a hot dish and +serve immediately. Canned peaches, if firm, may, of course, be +substituted for the fresh fruit. + + + + +IX + + +MENU + + Côtelettes de Saumon, à l'Anglaise + Pommes de Terre, Marquise + Petits Pois à la Paysanne + Salade Américaine + Choux au Chocolat + + +=Côtelettes de Saumon, Anglaise.=--Divide slices of salmon into shape of +cutlets, sprinkle with pepper and salt and put into a saucepan with a +small amount of butter and toss over the fire. When cooked take out and +drain, place on a hot dish and serve with the following sauce: Put three +tablespoonfuls of velouté sauce into a saucepan, reduce slightly and add +one egg, four ounces of butter, a little salt, cayenne, some finely +minced parsley and the juice of half a lemon. Mix together well over +the fire till the ingredients are blended and it is ready. + +=Pommes de Terre, Marquise.=--Boil potatoes in salted water and pass +through a sieve. Season with salt, pepper, nutmeg, chopped parsley and a +little chopped thyme. Moisten with some good gravy or stock and form +into small balls. Dip each in well beaten egg and fry to a light brown +in butter. + +=Petits Pois à la Paysanne.=--Take fresh green peas, or canned ones if +the former are not available, put over the fire in a saucepan with +plenty of butter and stir frequently. Cut one or two rashers of bacon in +very small dice and toss them in a saucepan over the fire. When the +bacon is well fried, mix in with the peas and let the two finish cooking +together, seasoning with pepper, salt and a little sugar. + +=Salade Américaine.=--Cut in rounds resembling a quarter-dollar equal +quantities of new potatoes, carrots and beet root, all previously +cooked. Then add a sour apple, cut in the same shape, and a few +anchovies cut in small pieces. Pour over this a dressing of three parts +oil to one of vinegar, add pepper, salt, mustard and chopped parsley. +Pile the salad up and surround with cress. + +=Choux au Chocolat.=--Into a small saucepan put half a cup of water with +two ounces of butter and one of sugar. When boiling add gradually two +and a half ounces of finely sifted flour and stir till the mixture is +stiff. Take from the fire, stir some more, then add two eggs, one at a +time, beat the whole well, and leave to cool. Butter a baking sheet, lay +the paste on it in round balls the size of a plum and bake in a moderate +oven for about twenty minutes. Allow to cool and then make an incision +in the side of each and fill with whipped cream slightly flavored with +vanilla or with jam. Just before serving glaze each chou slightly with a +chocolate icing. + + + + +X + + +MENU + + Consommé Duchesse + Saumon, Sauce Piquante + Rissolettes de BÅ“uf + Salade à la Reine + Crème Noyau + + +=Duchesse Consommé.=--Boil four tablespoonfuls of rice (ground) in four +cups of water for fifteen minutes, adding half a teaspoonful each of +salt and sugar. When the rice is soft and just before serving add a +quart of warmed milk, bring to a boil, adding lastly a dash of pepper +and paprika. + +=Saumon, Sauce Piquante.=--Take slices of salmon about three-quarters of +an inch in thickness and place in a saucepan with hot fish broth mixed +with a small quantity of wine. Allow to simmer for fifteen minutes. When +cooked remove and wipe free from broth, place on a hot platter and +serve with a sauce made as follows: Melt a quantity of butter, flavor to +taste with tarragon vinegar, pepper, mustard, fennel and such spices as +are liked. Stir over the fire till cooked, move to the side of the +stove, thicken with the yolk of an egg and serve. + +=Rissolettes de BÅ“uf.=--With four cups of finely minced beef mix one cup +of breadcrumbs, adding one boiled onion, a little essence of anchovies, +salt, pepper and a raw egg. Make into balls, roll in breadcrumbs and fry +slowly. Prepare a gravy by boiling the trimmings of the meat in the +water in which the onion was boiled, thicken with flour or cornstarch, +add three teaspoonfuls of lemon juice and pour over the rissolettes +which should be arranged on a heated platter around a heap of mashed +potatoes. + +=Salade à la Reine.=--Lay strips of endive lengthwise on the salad +plates and cross them with peeled tomatoes cut in sections like an +orange. Dress with a French salad dressing. + +=Crème Noyau.=--Pound in a mortar together a quarter pound of Jordan and +an ounce of bitter almonds with a scant half cup of cream and two ounces +of sugar. Rub through a sieve into a bowl, add a pint of whipped cream +flavored with Noyau and then an ounce of gelatine dissolved. Pour into a +mould to set. Serve with champagne wafers. + + + + +XI + + +MENU + + Consommé à la Madrilène + Perches aux Fines Herbes + Filets Mignons aux Pommes de Terre + Aubergines Farcies + Omelette au Rhum + + +=Consommé à la Madrilène.=--Put through a medium sieve five or six +boiled ripe tomatoes, or a can of tomatoes, allow to cool and pack in a +freezer. Add to a cold consommé and serve in cups. + +=Perches aux Fines Herbes.=--Prepare six fresh perch and marinade them +with two tablespoonfuls of olive oil, a sprig of parsley, a little +pepper and salt and allspice, bayleaf and other strong spices chopped +fine. Keep the fish in this for about an hour, remove and roll in +breadcrumbs lightly flavored with spices. Grill over a low fire till a +golden brown in color and serve with butter sauce. + +=Filets Mignons aux Pommes de Terre.=--Marinade the required number of +small filets mignon of mutton in butter seasoned with salt and chervil. +Leave for an hour or more and just before they are to be served, grill +them, basting frequently with the butter. Flavor with lemon juice and +serve with buttered fried potatoes. + +=Aubergines Farcies.=--Cut eggplants in halves lengthwise, remove the +inside and of this make a farcie by mixing it with chopped parsley, two +chopped onions and salt and pepper. Stuff the eggplant halves with this +mixture and put the combination into a casserole containing a good +quantity of melted butter and allow to simmer over a slow fire till all +is thoroughly done. Cover the tops with breadcrumbs, add a drop of oil +or a little melted butter and keep piping hot till served. + +=Omelette au Rhum.=--Prepare an omelette as for any sweet omelette and +just before serving place on a hot platter, pour rum over, ignite and +carry to the table blazing. + + + + +XII + + +MENU + + Potage Riz, Creçy + Canapés de Saumon Fumé + Paupiettes de Porc, Sauce Piquante + Asperges en Petits Pois + Tarte à la Turque + + +=Potage Riz, Creçy.=--Cut several firm, red carrots lengthwise, using +only the red part. Place in a casserole with a good bouillon and allow +to simmer over a slow fire. Pass through a sieve when the carrots are +soft, and put back in the bouillon. Add a cupful of cooked rice, bring +to a boil and serve. + +=Canapés de Saumon Fumé.=--Cut a smoked salmon into slices and spread +them with butter, adding pepper and salt and a pinch of nutmeg. Heat +over a crisp fire, place on a hot dish, cover with croutons and serve. + +=Paupiettes de Porc, Sauce Piquante.=--Take small slices of cold roast +pork and spread them with sausage meat. Roll them and fasten with +skewers, then cover with a thin coating of lard or with oiled paper and +cook them over a low fire in a casserole. When thoroughly done, take off +the papers, cover with breadcrumbs and brown. Serve with a piquant +sauce. + +=Asperges en Petits Pois.=--Cut up the green part of two bunches of +asparagus, roll in butter and add a little salt. Heat a cupful of flour, +being careful not to allow it to color, and dredge the asparagus with +it. Put into a saucepan with sufficient milk and water in equal parts to +cover, add a bouquet of herbs and allow the whole to simmer till the +asparagus is cooked. Season with white pepper and serve. + +=Tarte à la Turque.=--Boil a cupful of rice till thick in milk to which +has been added a stick of cinnamon, a little lemon juice and sugar. When +the rice is cooked allow to cool. Make a border of it on a buttered +plate and fill the center with a marmalade made as follows: Cut the +peeled stalks of a bunch of rhubarb into dice and allow them to simmer +in a small amount of water till they are of the consistency of +marmalade. Add three or four teaspoonfuls of sugar, a lump of butter and +the rind of a lemon. Take from the fire and immediately add the beaten +yolks of two eggs. Arrange, as stated, in the middle of the rice, +sprinkle with a little more sugar and set in the oven for fifteen +minutes or more before serving. + + + + +XIII + + +MENU + + Potage à la Chicorée + Allumettes d'Anchois + BÅ“uf Bouilli en Vinaigrette + Pommes Maire + Salade de Tomates + Crème Brulée + + +=Potage à la Chicorée.=--Pick carefully and wash two or three heads of +chicory, cut into shreds and pass through a little heated butter without +allowing to take color. Then add sufficient of the water in which the +Pommes Maire (below) were boiled to make the required quantity of soup, +add pepper and salt, simmer for an hour. Just after taking from the fire +add the beaten yolk of an egg. Pour into the tureen over toasted slices +of stale bread. + +=Allumettes d'Anchois.=--Make a fritter paste with flour and oil, +omitting salt. Soften with white wine. Wash the desired number of +anchovies, remove the bones and draw out the salt by soaking in milk. +Dip into the paste and fry. + +=BÅ“uf Bouilli en Vinaigrette.=--Cut cold, lean beef into narrow, thin +slices. Place it in a bowl with a finely chopped onion and some chervil, +a few cut-up gherkins, a teaspoonful of capers, pour oil, a little +vinegar and the juice of half a lemon over, add pepper and salt, toss +well together and serve at once. + +=Pommes Maire.=--Use "kidney" potatoes if procurable; if not, ordinary +potatoes of small size. Boil in salt water and peel while still hot, +then cut in thick chips and place in a casserole and cover with boiling +milk. Season with pepper and salt and allow to boil, turning with a fork +till the milk has boiled away. Remove from the fire, pour over a cup of +rich milk, season again and serve. + +=Salade de Tomates.=--Cut a pound of not too ripe tomatoes into one +inch cubes, add salt, pepper, vinegar and oil to taste and then toss +together with a minced onion. Serve right away. If desired, cold boiled +beef in dainty slices may be added. + +=Crème Brulée.=--Blend a tablespoonful of flour with the yolks of three +eggs and place in a casserole. Pour slowly in a pint or more of milk, +add a pinch of cinnamon, a few drops of extract of lemon or any flavor +desired, and stir constantly over the fire. When the cream is cooked, +make a caramel sauce in a porcelain pot by melting five or six lumps of +sugar and cooking to the browning point. Pour this into a serving dish, +pour the cream over it and allow to cool. + + + + +XIV + + +MENU + + Bisque d'Herbes + Turbot à la Rachel + Choufleur au Gratin + Salade Barbe de Capucin + Gâteau de Frangipane + + +=Bisque d'Herbes.=--Chop together about a handful each of lettuce, +sorrel, spinach, also a small onion, a little celery and some chervil +and cook all with an egg-sized piece of butter for fifteen minutes, +stirring constantly. Then add three tablespoonfuls of flour made smooth +with a little stock, stir in four cupfuls of the cauliflower water +(which you will have from a recipe following) into which has been beaten +the yolk of an egg. Serve very hot with croutons. + +=Turbot à la Rachel.=--Boil the fish in salted water. Whitefish or +haddock will serve as well as turbot. Make the following sauce: Smooth +and brown together two tablespoonfuls of flour and two ounces of butter +and stir in five gills of water in which the fish was boiled, adding a +teaspoonful each of anchovy essence and mushroom catsup. Remove from the +fire and beat in the yolks of two eggs and the juice of one lemon. Color +with liquid carmine or a few drops of cochineal and pour over the fish. + +=Choufleur au Gratin.=--Dip the cauliflower into ice water, then plunge +it into boiling salted water to cook fifteen minutes. Cut a slice off +the stalk, remove the leaves, lay on a flat dish and cover with a cream +sauce. Sprinkle with grated breadcrumbs and grated Parmesan cheese, +brown in the oven and serve. + +=Salade Barbe de Capucin.=--Lay the stalks of American endive in a dish +and cut into small pieces a medium shallot. Mix, add a French dressing +and sprinkle with finely chopped tarragon leaves. + +=Gâteau de Frangipane.=--Whisk together a quarter of a pound of powdered +sugar and the whites of three eggs, then beat in three tablespoonfuls of +milk, the grated peel of a lemon and a dash of salt. Then stir in half a +pound of flour. Bake in patty tins and when done scoop a piece out of +the top of each patty and fill with jam. Then pour over a sauce made as +follows: Put two wineglassfuls of white wine into a small saucepan and +stir in a cupful of orange marmalade with the juice of a lemon. Thicken +with a little corn-starch. + + + + +XV + + +MENU + + Potage Bisque + Canard à la Pertinset + Pommes de Terre à la Crème + Choufleur au Beurre Noir + Salade de Lentilles + Pêches au Vin + + +=Potage Bisque.=--Boil as many crabs as are needed in water, adding +salt, pepper, two good sized onions and equal quantities of carrots and +chives. Remove the crabs and take the meat from the claws. Mash the +vegetables until they form a purée and add a good sized lump of butter. +Place over the fire with water or bouillon and allow to come to a boil. +Serve very hot with croutons and the meat from the crab claws. + +=Canard à la Pertinset.=--Place a carefully prepared duck in a casserole +and dredge it with a lump of melted butter, add two onions, one clove, +a dash of garlic. Put in the oven but do not allow the onions to become +too brown before removing the duck. Then add five or six tomatoes, one +glass of white wine, a glass of bouillon, a few cloves and a bayleaf. +Let this boil over a low fire, then mash the tomatoes and onions, put +back the duck into the casserole and boil for forty minutes. + +=Pommes de Terre à la Crème.=--Put into a casserole a lump of butter, a +pinch of flour, salt and pepper, nutmeg and a young onion. Mix well and +add a cup of rich milk. Place on the fire, stir constantly, and remove +as soon as the mixture comes to a boil. Meanwhile boil as many potatoes +as are required in salted water. Peel and cut into slices, add to the +sauce and serve. + +=Choufleur au Beurre Noir.=--Boil a cauliflower and drain. Add a pinch +of salt, nutmeg and a dash of vinegar to a pint of the water in which +the cauliflower was cooked. Melt two tablespoonfuls of butter and when +it is a light brown add it to the mixture. Pour over the cauliflower on +a hot platter. + +=Salade de Lentilles.=--Having boiled two cupfuls of lentils till they +are tender, season them either hot or cold with a little garlic cut up +fine, or with chives and serve in lettuce leaves with a French dressing. + +=Pêches au Vin.=--Put peaches into a stewpan and cover them with water. +In ten minutes remove the skins. Then place them in a shallow dish and +cover them either with Madeira or Moselle wine and allow them to stand +for at least two hours. Then drain them, place them in the dish in which +they are to be served and cover them with vanilla sugar. Set the wine in +which they have been soaked on the fire, add sugar to taste, and pour +the sauce boiling over the peaches. + + + + +XVI + + +MENU + + Sardines Grillées + Chapon à l'Indienne + Pommes de Terre en Matelote + Salade Beaucaire + Crème Fouettée + + +=Sardines Grillées.=--Grill half a dozen sardines, or as many as desired, +for a few minutes. Melt butter in a frying-pan, stir in a little flour +and moisten with hot water, then add a few drops of vinegar, a dash of +mustard, salt and pepper. Pour this very hot over the sardines. + +=Chapon à l'Indienne.=--Prepare and truss a capon as for roasting, rub +all over with butter and place in a casserole with a good sized slice of +salt pork. Cook over a slow fire for three hours. In the meantime cook a +cupful of rice, season it with a little curry powder and pimento, and +place around the capon on the platter on which it is served. + +=Pommes de Terre en Matelote.=--Slice freshly boiled potatoes and cook +en casserole with seasoning of pepper and salt, two or three sliced +onions, a sprig of chopped parsley, a lump of butter and a small amount +of flour and water. Cook till all the ingredients are well blended and +when heaped on a platter and ready for the table, pour over a glass or +two of wine. + +=Salade Beaucaire.=--Chop coarsely celery and endive together, season +with oil, vinegar and mustard an hour before using. Just before taking +to the table, add chopped boiled ham, a sour apple, diced, moistened +with a little tarragon and mayonnaise. Surround the salad with a border +of small potatoes, boiled and sliced, alternated with slices of beet. + +=Crème Fouettée.=--Whip cream till it is very thick or make about a +quart of custard. Mash thoroughly a pound of cherries or raspberries, or +both with powdered sugar. Mix with the cream or custard, beat again and +serve immediately. In summer this may be iced with good results. + + + + +XVII + + +MENU + + Potage Macédoine + Homards et Champignons + Côtelettes de Mouton à la Brunoise + Petits Pois à la Française + Choux à la Crème + + +=Potage Macédoine.=--Place thin pieces of ham in the bottom of a +saucepan and then put in three each of turnips, potatoes and onions, all +cut up small. Pour in some stock, season with pepper and salt and simmer +till the ham and vegetables are cooked. Add a quart of milk and bring +almost to a boil, strain and serve immediately. + +=Homards et Champignons.=--Cut an equal quantity of lobster meat and +mushrooms into dice. Boil some velouté sauce together with some essence +of mushrooms till somewhat reduced, then thicken and mix with the +lobster and mushrooms. Fill ramekin cases with the preparation, +sprinkle with breadcrumbs, pour over a little melted butter and bake in +the oven till browned. Serve piping hot. + +=Côtelettes de Mouton à la Brunoise.=--Trim mutton cutlets neatly, +cutting away all fat, and place side by side in a large stewpan. Cover +with well-flavored stock and leave to simmer, well covered, for an hour +and a half. Take equal quantities of turnips, onions and celery and +double the amount of carrots, cut all into quarter-inch cubes and fry in +butter till they begin to color, putting in first the carrots, then the +celery, then the onions and last the turnips. When all are done, drain +and allow them to simmer gently in a little common stock. A little while +before the cutlets are done drain off all the surplus stock from the +vegetables, or boil it down quickly over a hot fire. Dress the cutlets +on the rim of a platter, heap the vegetables in the center and pour the +gravy all over them. Accompany with mashed potatoes. + +=Petits Pois à la Française.=--Cook a pint of shelled peas till tender, +drain and place on the back of the fire with not quite a gill of the +water in which they have been boiled, a little flour and an ounce of +butter. Simmer for five minutes, adding pepper and salt to taste and +just before taking from the fire add the yolk of an egg mixed with a +tablespoonful and a half of cream. Serve very hot in china or paper +cases. + +=Choux à la Crème.=--Put a small piece of butter in a saucepan with half +a pint of water, a teaspoonful of sugar, a piece of lemon peel and a +little salt. Boil well together, stir in two tablespoonfuls of flour and +stir till thick and cooked. Allow this paste to cool and then work into +it two eggs and sufficient milk to make it thin enough to drop from a +spoon. Heat lard in a deep frying pan, not quite to the point of +boiling, and with a spoon drop the paste into it in lumps about the size +of a hen's egg. When slightly brown and well swollen, remove the cakes, +drain them well, scoop out a little of the top of each to form a hollow +and allow them to cool. Whip cream to a stiff froth and put a small +amount into the hollow of each chou, arrange on a fancy dish and serve. +The chou may be filled with jelly or preserves if preferred. + + + + +XVIII + + +MENU + + Potage à la Printanière + Paupiettes de Veau + Pommes de Terre, Maître d'Hôtel + Salade de Laitue + Feuillantines + + +=Potage à la Printanière.=--Cut two carrots and one turnip into shapes +with a vegetable scoop, simmer for twenty minutes in salted water, drain +and place in a quart of the water in which the potatoes (in this same +menu) were boiled. Add a handful of chiffonade, cook five minutes and +serve. + +=Paupiettes de Veau.=--Cut thin cutlets from a fillet of veal and beat +them flat and even. Also mince a small quantity of the veal very fine, +mix it with some of the kidney fat, also minced fine, and half a dozen +minced anchovies, adding a little salt, ginger and powdered mace. Place +this mixture over the slices of veal and roll them up. Beat up an egg, +dip the rolled slices in it and then in sifted breadcrumbs. Let them +stand for fifteen or twenty minutes, egg them again, roll in breadcrumbs +and fry to a golden brown in boiling lard or clarified dripping, or stew +them in some rich gravy with half a pint of white wine and a small +quantity of walnut pickle. + +=Pommes de Terre, Maître d'Hôtel.=--Cut up carefully selected, +underboiled and cold potatoes in rather thick slices. Dredge half a +tablespoonful of flour in a saucepan with a lump of butter and when +smooth add gradually a cupful of broth, stirring till it boils. Place in +the potatoes along with a tablespoonful of chopped parsley and pepper +and salt. Stew for three or four minutes, remove the pan to the side of +the fire and add quickly the yolk of an egg previously well beaten with +a teaspoonful of cold water and a little lemon juice. When the egg has +become thickened, turn the potatoes with their sauce on a flat dish and +serve. + +=Salade de Laitue.=--Select fine lettuces, remove the coarse outer +leaves, wash and wipe, place in a salad bowl and sprinkle over a +tablespoonful of chopped chives, half a teaspoonful each of chopped +chervil and tarragon. Season with a pinch of salt, half a teaspoonful of +pepper, two tablespoonfuls of vinegar and a tablespoonful and a half of +oil. Mix thoroughly and serve. + +=Feuillantines.=--Prepare some puff paste; roll out to about a third of +an inch thick and cut into strips an inch wide and two inches long. +Spread a baking dish thick with butter, arrange the pieces of paste on +it, placing them upon their sides and leaving a small space between +them. Put them in the oven and when they are firm and their sides have +spread, glaze them with white of egg and dust with powdered sugar. As +the feuillantines are cooked set them on paper and drain off any extra +grease. Now mask them separately with small quantities of different +colored jams. Arrange on fancy edged dish-paper or a folded napkin on a +dish and serve. + + + + +XIX + + +MENU + + Potage Crème d'Orge + BÅ“uf à la Mode + Pommes de Terre, Sautées + Salade de Romaine + Soufflé au Chocolat + + +=Potage Crème d'Orge.=--Mix in a saucepan a teacupful of barley, an +onion, a small piece of cinnamon, half a blade of mace and three pints +of water in which potatoes have been boiled. When the mixture boils +remove from the center of the fire and allow to simmer slowly for three +hours or more. Pass through a fine sieve and return to saucepan. Mix in +two tablespoonfuls of butter and half a pint of boiling milk, season +with pepper and salt. Beat an egg yolk in a teacupful of milk, mix in +the soup but do not allow to boil after egg is added. Serve with +croutons. + +=BÅ“uf à la Mode.=--Take the under part of a round of beef, place it in a +deep earthen dish and pour over it spiced vinegar. Let the meat remain +in this for several hours, then dress it with strips of salt pork, a +third of an inch square, inserted in incisions made a few inches apart. +Stuff larger incisions with breadcrumbs highly seasoned with salt, +pepper, onions, thyme and marjoram. Bind the beef into a shape to retain +the dressing and dredge with flour. Then cut up two onions, half a +carrot and half a turnip and fry in fat drippings till brown and place +in a stewpan. Brown the meat all over with the same fat, place on a +trivet in the pan, half cover with boiling water, add a small quantity +of mixed herbs tied in a bag, cover and simmer for about four hours, or +till done. Take out carefully, remove strings and cloth, and place on a +large dish. Skim off the fat from the gravy, add more seasoning, thicken +with wetted flour worked smooth, boil for eight or ten minutes and +strain over the meat. Decorate with small onions and potato balls. + +=Pommes de Terre, Sautées.=--Boil potatoes until almost done, cut into +quarters or slices of medium thickness. Melt butter or clarified +drippings in a frying pan, put in the potatoes sprinkled with salt and +pepper and finely chopped parsley and toss over the fire till they are a +fine golden brown color. Serve with chopped parsley. + +=Salade de Romaine.=--Put crisp leaves of romaine in a salad bowl rubbed +lightly with a shallot or new onion. Make the following dressing. Take +one hard-boiled egg and mash it as finely as possible with a fork, add a +little paprika, a pinch of salt, half a teaspoonful of French mustard, a +teaspoonful of hashed chives, the same of hashed tarragon, two +tablespoonfuls of oil and three of vinegar. Add this to the romaine, +toss well and serve. + +=Soufflé au Chocolat.=--Mix a small tablespoonful of starch with a gill +of milk and when quite smooth add two ounces of powdered sugar and two +ounces of butter. Put the mixture into a saucepan and stir over the fire +till it boils. When cold stir in an ounce of grated chocolate and the +yolks of two eggs. Beat well together till perfectly smooth, then mix in +the whites of the eggs. Pour into a buttered souffle dish and bake for +forty minutes. + + + + +XX + + +MENU + + Potage Gourmet + Eglefin à la Maître d'Hôtel + Pommes de Terre, Casserole + Salade de Tomates et de Laitue + Canards Sauvages, Sauce Orange + Soufflé au Citron + + +=Potage Gourmet.=--Pour into a saucepan about a quart of the water in +which potatoes have been boiled, add a small amount of cold chicken cut +in small dice, two tablespoonfuls of boiled rice, two tablespoonfuls of +cooked green peas and one truffle cut into dice, also pepper and salt, +along with one or two whole cloves. Bring to a boil, allow to simmer for +fifteen minutes, and serve. + +=Eglefin à la Maître d'Hôtel.=--Cut a cleaned haddock open at the back +on each side of the bone, dust with pepper and salt, dip in flour, +place on a gridiron over a clear fire and cook for about twenty minutes, +turning carefully from time to time. Remove from the fire, place two +ounces of butter on the back of the fish, place it in the oven to melt +the butter, then, put the fish on a hot platter and sprinkle with mince +parsley and lemon juice, the latter heated. + +=Pommes de Terre, Casserole.=--Boil a pound or two of potatoes, drain +and mash and make into a stiff paste by adding butter and milk together +with a little salt. Form into a casserole, put on a dish, make an +opening in the top, brown in the oven and serve. + +=Salade de Tomates et Laitue.=--Split the white leaves of lettuce into +quarters and place in a bowl. Cut tomatoes into thin slices and place +over the lettuce. Season with a sauce made of one part of vinegar, two +of oil, a little salt and pepper. Pour the sauce over just before +serving. + +=Canards Sauvages, Sauce Orange.=--Roast two wild ducks over a brisk +fire, having them underdone, more or less, according to taste. Baste +all the time they are cooking with butter and the juice of lemon and +serve with the following sauce. Shred finely the rind of two oranges and +parboil in a little water. Melt an ounce of butter and stir into it a +dessertspoonful of flour moistened with a little water. Stir well over +the fire and then add the juice of the two oranges, some very clear +gravy, flavor with pepper and salt and cayenne, then add the parboiled +orange rind. Let the sauce boil and keep hot till wanted. + +=Soufflé au Citron.=--Put three egg yolks and three ounces of powdered +sugar into a basin with the grated rind of a lemon and a half and stir +till quite thick. Add slowly a tablespoonful of lemon juice and then, +quickly, the well beaten whites of the three eggs. Pour into a pie dish +and bake in a medium oven for twenty minutes. When the surface is a +golden brown it is done. Serve immediately. + + + + +XXI + + +MENU + + Filets de Carrelets, Italienne + Pommes de Terre, Loulou + Cailles Rôtis + Salade des Tomates et d'Artichauts + Vol-au-Vent, Chantilly + + +=Filets de Carrelets, Italienne.=--Take the fillets of two firm +flounders, trim and flour each piece lightly. Dip in egg beaten with +pepper and salt, cover on both sides with stale breadcrumbs and fry in +boiling olive oil. When the fillets are a golden brown place on a sieve +in front of the fire with a soft paper beneath them that they may drain. +Serve with fried parsley and quarters of lemon. + +=Pommes de Terre, Loulou.=--Chop raw potatoes fine and place them in a +saucepan with butter and a seasoning of pepper, salt, paprika and a +trace of nutmeg. Cover and cook very slowly, agitating them constantly. +When they become soft, beat well and arrange a layer on a vegetable +dish, sprinkle with Parmesan cheese, put on another layer of potatoes, +then more cheese, and so on, having the top layer of cheese. Pour over +all melted butter and bake about twenty minutes in a slow oven. + +=Cailles Rôtis.=--Tie a thin slice of bacon over the breast of each +quail, roast them at a clear fire for fifteen minutes, basting +frequently. Lay them on crisp buttered toast, sprinkle with minced +parsley, salt and paprika, and serve with a rich wine jelly on a +separate dish. + +=Salade des Tomates et d'Artichauts.=--Cut the under part of boiled +artichokes into slices and take the same number of slices of tomato. Dip +both into a dressing made of olive oil, vinegar, tarragon, chervil, salt +and pepper, with a little mustard and arrange in a salad bowl. Pour over +the remainder of the dressing and serve. + +=Vol-au-Vent, Chantilly.=--Roll a pound of puff paste to about an eighth +of an inch in thickness and cut out about thirty rounds with a fluted +cutter, about two and a half inches in diameter. Then cut out the center +of these with a cutter about an inch across. Roll out the paste taken +from the centers and cut out more rings in the same way. Brush the rings +over with egg, place one on top of another, two by two, press together +so that they will stick, place on a baking sheet, brush over with egg +and bake in a brisk oven. When almost done sprinkle with sugar and allow +to remain in the oven till they are glazed and fully done. Remove and +place on a warmed platter and fill with any sort of cream desired, or +jam or tart marmalade. + + + + +XXII + + +MENU + + Potage Julienne + Homard Bordelaise + Canard à la Reine + Salade à la Russe + Café Bavaroise + + +=Potage Julienne.=--Cut carrots, onions, leeks and turnips into thin +slices or strips of equal size with a head of celery. Put all into two +ounces of butter melted in a saucepan and toss over a slow fire for a +few minutes. If desired other vegetables in season such as cauliflower, +peas or asparagus may be added. Pour clear chicken broth over the +vegetables, put in some pieces of cold chicken, allow to come to a boil, +then simmer till the vegetables are tender and pour the whole into the +tureen with sippets of toast. + +=Homard Bordelaise.=--Cut a small carrot and an onion into fine pieces +and boil for five minutes in a wineglassful of red wine. Now add the +meat from two lobsters, cut in small pieces, say, about a pound and a +half. Season with a very little pepper, salt, and a trace of nutmeg, +adding, just before the lobster is cooked, about half a pint of velouté +sauce. Stew well together and serve at once. + +=Canard à la Reine.=--Cut off one wing of a duck and half the breast +from the same side, remove the skin, take out the bone and fill the +place with quenelle forcemeat. Lard the breast and put it into a +braising pan over slices of leeks, carrots and onions and a little +thyme, chervil, bayleaves and lemon peel. Add sufficient stock to +prevent burning, set the pan on the fire and braise the duck, then glaze +it. Serve with a purée of beans for garnish. + +=Salade à la Russe.=--Cut cold chicken and salmon into thin slices, +arrange in a salad dish and mix with finely cut cooked asparagus heads, +carrots and cauliflower, a few capers and a little caviare. The dressing +is made with three parts of oil and one of vinegar, a little mustard and +cayenne pepper and a tablespoonful of minced onion. Pour over the salad +and stand on the ice till served. + +=Café Bavaroise.=--Grind half a pound of green coffee, roast in a sugar +boiler without burning it or even browning and soak a quart of milk with +it for about an hour. Now stir into a cupful of flour a teaspoonful of +castor sugar into which has been dropped a little vanilla extract, and a +little salt. Stir this all in with the strained coffee-flavored milk, +bring to a boil, remove from the fire and stir in the yolks, then the +whites of three eggs, all beaten firm. Fill paper cases with the +mixture, bake, sprinkle castor sugar over the tops and serve at once. + + + + +XXIII + + +MENU + + Huitres à l'Américaine + BÅ“uf à l'Aurore + Pommes de Terre, Lyonnaise + Salade Française + Crème à la Russe + + +=Huitres à l'Américaine.=--Place in a sauce bowl a heaped teaspoonful of +salt, three-quarters of a teaspoonful of white pepper, a medium sized +onion, chopped, and a teaspoonful of minced parsley. Mix lightly +together along with a teaspoonful of olive oil, six drops of tobasco +sauce, a little Worcestershire sauce and a gill of vinegar. Put a +teaspoonful of this mixture on each raw oyster just before taking to the +table. + +=BÅ“uf à l'Aurore.=--Season two steaks of about three-quarters of a pound +each (any ordinary cut will do) with salt and pepper, baste on either +side with a little oil and broil over a brisk fire for six minutes. +Place on a hot dish and serve with the following sauce poured over: Mix +in a saucepan a small glass of mushroom liquor with half a pint of +bechamel sauce, half an ounce of butter and two or three tablespoonfuls +of tomato sauce. Place on the fire, stir for ten minutes and just before +removing add whole mushrooms cut in squares. + +=Salade Française.=--Chop fine a bunch of parsley, two small onions and +six anchovies. Lay them in a bowl and mix with salt and mustard to +taste, two tablespoonfuls of salad oil and a gill of vinegar. Stir all +well together and then add, one at a time, some very thin strips of cold +roasted or boiled meat, not more than three or four inches long. Shake +the slices well in the dressing. Cover the bowl closely and allow to +stand for at least three hours. Serve garnished with parsley. + +=Pommes de Terre, Lyonnaise.=--Cut into round slices eight boiled +potatoes, lay them in a frying pan with an ounce and a half of butter +and the slices of a partly cooked onion. Season with salt and pepper and +cook till the potatoes become well browned, tossing all the while. Serve +with chopped parsley sprinkled over. + +=Crème à la Russe.=--Put into a saucepan a pint of milk, half a pound of +lump sugar, the grated rind of two lemons and an ounce of gelatine, +previously soaked in water. Cook till the sugar dissolves over a slow +fire, then allow the mixture to cool somewhat before stirring in the +yolks of two eggs, unbeaten. Place on the fire to curdle. Strain, and +when cool add the juice of the two lemons and the whites of the eggs +beaten stiffly. Stir all well together and pour into a wet mould. Turn +out when well set. + + + + +XXIV + + +MENU + + Potage Napolitaine + Truites à la Monbarry + Croquettes de Pommes de Terre + Celeri-rave en Salade + Pouding aux Figues + + +=Potage Napolitaine.=--Boil in strong bouillon small forcemeat balls +made of any left-over game or meat. Then soak croutons in the same +bouillon. Add the forcemeat balls and serve. + +=Truites à la Monbarry.=--Prepare several trout and lay them in a pan +with a quarter pound of butter and some strong spices. Allow to heat +slowly in an open oven and when the butter is entirely melted, drop on +the trout two well beaten yolks of eggs. Grate cheese over this and +cover all with a quantity of fine breadcrumbs. Brown lightly in a hot +oven and serve. + +=Croquettes de Pommes de Terre.=--Boil and drain about two and a half +pounds of potatoes. Add a generous quantity of butter, yolks of two +eggs, salt and pepper and the white of the eggs beaten to a snow. Beat +the whole up briskly, shape the mixture into balls and fry in a pan. + +=Celeri-rave en Salade.=--Trim carefully a bunch of celery, leaving on +as much of the root as possible. Cut in half and boil in salted water +till tender. Then trim into even sticks and season it very piquantly +with French mustard, a few young onions, pepper, salt and finely chopped +parsley. Garnish with lettuce-leaves and slices of beet. + +=Pouding aux Figues.=--Mix in a large bowl a cupful of breadcrumbs, half +a cup of farina, a pinch of salt, a cup of suet, cut fine, a cup of +powdered sugar, a minced carrot and a cup and a half of chopped figs. +Grease a baking mould, line it with whole figs, and empty the mixture +into it. Cook for four hours, the pan standing in water. Serve hot with +a rum sauce. + + + + +LET US EAT FISH + +A FAMOUS FRENCH LUNCHEON À L'AMÉRICAINE + + +Only in the Latin countries has fish as an edible ever been fully +appreciated and, as is the case with most other things gastronomic, it +is in France that the food possibilities of the denizens of the water +have been brought nearest perfection. + +Over here we have always seemed to regard fish as useful chiefly for +stocking aquariums or for furnishing sport for the vacationist, along +with golf, tennis and bowling. True, we have become rather well +acquainted with certain sea foods, the oysters, Blue Points and Cape +Cods; we have a nodding acquaintance with some of the clam clan, +especially the Rhode Island branch, and the Little Necks, the blue +bloods of the family. And, of course, we are familiar with the +crustaceans, the lobsters and the crabs. + +And we know, too, certain succulent sea delicacies that come to us from +Palm Beach shores and California and Oregon regions, tuna and halibut, +bluefish and salmon as it comes to us variously prepared for the table. +In short, we Americans are fairly friendly with a number of the +aristocrats of the water, but on analyzing the situation we come to +realize that as for knowing the "finny tribe" as a whole well enough to +get complete gastronomic joy out of the situation, it remains that it is +only the French people who are so blessed. + +Time and the hour and the high price of meat, however, render it +advisable, even absolutely necessary, that we work _all_ our resources +instead of only a part of them, to economize whenever and wherever we +can, and the waters in our midst and around us are surely one of the +most important resources not already worked to the limit. + +Therefore, let us eat fish--but first let us learn of the French about +fish, even as we have learned of them concerning other foods, or as we +have learned fashions, for, verily, the turning out of a proper fish +dish for the table has ever been regarded by the French as no less an +art than the creation of a beautiful frock in one of their ateliers. +Moreover, their ways with fish are so broadly inclusive that one may +make up an entire menu from one end to the other, with only a cup of +coffee needed as a final fillip to make a perfect meal--and all of fish. + +By way of furnishing inspiration to our own appetites, herewith is a +suggestion for a fish luncheon, a favorite menu of France, which its +wealth and fashion delighted to have set before it in those good old +days before the war. Substitutes are given for any fish not indigenous +to American waters; otherwise it is just as it would be served at one of +the Riviera restaurants, with the exception, of course, that on the +Riviera or at any of the noted marine restaurants, the visitor himself +was permitted to select the fish for each course from among the +different specimens swimming in the reserves, altogether unconscious of +impending fate. + +No French restauranteur worthy the name ever kept dead fish in stock, +for nothing deteriorates so quickly. There is rarely over here the +natural reserve that the Riviera takes as a matter of course, although +there is, in some restaurants, the tank of running water in which the +fish are kept in condition till required. + + + + +AN ALL FISH LUNCHEON + + +MENU + +=Hors d'Å’uvres.= =Little Necks or Blue Points.= + + (At Monte Carlo one would be served Clovisses.) + +=Lobster with Sauce Piquante.= + + (A substitute for the French langouste, which is similar to a giant + lobster minus the two long nippers. Or there might be served abroad + for this course a little gelatinous fellow called supion, or + sea-hedgehog, or perhaps nonnots, smaller and more delicate than our + own whitefish.) + +=French Sardines Grilled, or Shad Planked.= + + (Shad is a most satisfactory substitute for the French + restauranteur's delight--loup de mer.) + +=Flounder, Sauce Meunière, or Shrimps.= + + (In Dieppe sole and certain crevettes are both specialties and are + served at this juncture, but little sole is being received here and + our own flounder answers requirements admirably. Shrimps, too, will + please an American palate fully as well as the crevettes.) + +=Bouillabaisse.= + + (This, for which we have no nearer synonym than fish stew, which is + a libel, is the pièce de résistance of the luncheon. It is probably + the most famous fish dish of France.) + +=Salade de Poisson with Aioli.= + + (Aioli is a Mediterranean mayonnaise and "the dressing," the French + say, "is the soul of the salad.") + +It will be noted that there is no dessert given with the above menu, but +the repast may be gracefully topped off with crackers and cheese and +café noir. Tea is never served with fish, as the tannin is said to +render fish particularly indigestible. + + +TO PREPARE THE LUNCHEON + +The French disdain the pepper, horseradish and tomato mixtures with +which we are wont to dress raw oysters, preferring to get the full +coppery taste peculiar to their home product, but the American oyster, +even these artists of the culinary department agree, requires a dressing +to bring out the flavor. As for the clovisse, which is, by the way, +first cousin to our clam, it is eaten from the shell, each clovisse +being opened immediately before being disposed of. + +Lobster as here served to take the place of the French langouste, tastes +much like deviled lobster. The sauce piquante is made as follows: Into a +saucepan put a tablespoonful of finely chopped onion with a little salt, +grated nutmeg, black pepper and an ounce of butter. When this melts and +blends add a little chopped red pepper along with three tablespoonfuls +of vinegar and a teaspoonful of mustard. Stir together well, then mix in +half an ounce of flour and half a pint of fish stock. Simmer for half an +hour, skimming occasionally and, finally add a chopped pickled gherkin. + +=Sauce Meunière=, served with the sole, or, in this case with the +flounder, is made by adding a few shrimps and mussels, minced, to a pint +of white wine in a saucepan, along with a cupful of minced mushrooms, a +teaspoonful of butter, salt and pepper and three or four cloves. Simmer +for twenty minutes and pour over the fish just before serving. + +=Salade de Poisson, Aioli=, is made by taking any cold fish, say salmon, +with this menu. It is flaked and marinaded in oil and vinegar seasoned +well with pepper and salt. Allow to remain for an hour or so, then +remove and arrange compactly in a salad bowl. The aioli, the +Mediterranean delicacy with which it is served, is made by whipping two +eggs, four teaspoonfuls of olive oil, a half teaspoonful of French +mustard and a half cupful of cream together till stiff, in a bowl rubbed +with garlic. Heap this on the center of the fish. + +As for the =Bouillabaisse=, it is like our own Welsh Rabbit in so far as +hardly any two persons make it alike. Here are two recipes which +gastronomic authorities have accorded the meed of highest praise: + +No. 1.--Cut into pieces and remove the bones from three pounds of fish; +say one pound each of cod, halibut and bluefish, though any fish of like +nature will do. To these add the cooked meat of one lobster or two +crabs, and six shrimps and put all into a casserole in half a pint or +more of olive oil to cook, adding one lemon, sliced, two tomatoes, one +onion, one sliced carrot, a bunch of saffron, a bunch of parsley, a +bayleaf and a clove of garlic--or have the casserole rubbed with the +garlic. Cook for ten minutes, stirring frequently, then add one cup of +soup stock and a glass of wine or cider. Cook for fifteen minutes +longer, remove to a hot bowl, line the casserole with slices of toast, +and pour back the bouillabaisse. Serve at once. + +No. 2.--Place the pieces of fish to any desired amount in a large +saucepan, add two or three sliced onions, one or two sliced carrots, +three shallots, two cloves of garlic, a bunch of thyme and parsley, +three or four cloves, two bayleaves, half a teaspoonful of capsicum, a +wine-glass of olive oil and salt and pepper to taste. Pour over the +above mixture two quarts of water and boil gently for half an hour, the +pan covered. Drain and lay on a hot dish. Then mix a teaspoonful of +saffron in the liquid, pass through a strainer into a soup tureen. Serve +the soup with the fish and a plate of croutons of fried bread or sippets +of toast. + + + + +FISH À LA MARSEILLES + + +The French have another fish dish which, like bouillabaisse, is +practically a meal in itself and which in these days should be better +known to the American table. It is a specialty in the vicinity of +Marseilles and made there, of course, with fish peculiar to the home +waters, but M. Auguste Gay, Chef of the Yale Club, New York, who, +incidentally, has probably given more attention to the adaptation of +French cookery to American requirements than any other chef, is +authority for the statement that the following recipe produces an almost +perfect substitute for the French dish: + +Chop into fine bits a small sweet Chile pepper and toss it about in a +saucepan over the fire with a third of a cupful of olive oil or butter. +When hot add a cupful of okra and the same amount of stewed fresh or +canned tomatoes. Cook fifteen minutes and add a full cupful of cooked +fresh fish--cod, haddock, etc., and a half cupful of flaked salt fish, +mackerel, for instance. Cover and cook for twenty minutes longer and +serve with water crackers. + + + + +GENERAL CONSIDERATIONS + + +One secret of the French cook's superiority to the American in preparing +fish is that the former has almost a congenital knowledge of his +subject. To him all fish is not just fish. He differentiates sharply as +to species, tempering his treatment to varied requirements. + +Roughly, there are two classes of fish: those which have dark flesh or +flesh with a pinkish tone which is streaked with fat, and those which +have white, firm flesh and are the more digestible. Best known in the +first class are shad, butterfish, bluefish, salmon, mackerel and +sturgeon, and in the second, cod, halibut, flounder, trout, rock and sea +bass, pompano, weakfish and perch. + +One matter-of-course rule is that no fish of whatever kind shall be +allowed to enter the kitchen unless it is perfectly fresh. To be sure +of this see that the gills are bright and shining and the flesh firm, +not readily separating from the bones. That settled, you have an almost +endless choice of ways of cooking. + +Fish may be boiled, broiled, fried, baked, planked, creamed, steamed, +cooked en casserole, jellied or pickled, but of all these ways none +produces quite the universally satisfactory results with a sizable fish +that planking does, and planking is not more difficult or expensive than +other methods. + +All that is required in the way of accoutrements is a half-inch-thick +hardwood board which is heated in advance in the oven when planked fish +is to figure on the menu. Then having thoroughly cleaned the fish, +removed its head and tail, split it up the back half through the bone so +that it will open out flat, brush it with butter and season with pepper +and salt, place it skin-side down on the board. + +Put it in the oven and when it is done, which can be easily ascertained +by lifting a bit of the flesh, you, being American, may garnish the +board with mashed and seasoned potatoes, set the board back in the oven +till the potatoes are browned and serve. The French, on taking the +cooked fish from the oven, merely brush it with a little oil or melted +butter, squeeze some lemon juice over, sprinkle a few bits of parsley +about, and send the fish thus to the table. + +Small fish, such as perch, smelts, etc., are best fried in deep fat or +its substitute, first being dipped in egg and rolled in fine cracker or +breadcrumbs, then served with a Sauce Mousseline, mashed potatoes or +boiled new ones, and a crisp salad. + +This Sauce Mousseline is made by beating two eggs in a saucepan, adding +a cupful of top milk, butter the size of a walnut and pepper and salt, +then stirring over the fire till it begins to thicken. When of the +proper consistency, add a tablespoonful of lemon juice and it is ready +for the table. + +A tart sauce for boiled fish that is much favored in the south of France +but which, if it has ever crossed the water, has kept its arrival very +quiet, is quite simply made and will be much liked as a decided change. +To make it dissolve a tablespoonful of powdered mustard in a half cupful +of fish stock and add two tablespoonfuls of white wine vinegar by +preference, though other vinegar will do. Let this come to a boil, add +two or three slices of lemon and boil a few minutes longer. Take from +the fire and add two eggs that have been beaten with a teaspoonful of +water. Season with salt and pepper and heat again but do not allow to +boil. + + + + + [ Transcriber's Note: + + The following is a list of corrections made to the original. The first + line is the original line, the second the corrected one. + + vinegars, Worchestershire and many another flavoring designed to give a + vinegars, Worcestershire and many another flavoring designed to give a + + left of the morn ng cereal except to the advantage of some later made + left of the morning cereal except to the advantage of some later made + + over a moderate fire and add to it chopped parsely and chives, or + over a moderate fire and add to it chopped parsley and chives, or + + a boil and mix in two or three tablespoonsfuls of grated Parmesan cheese. + a boil and mix in two or three tablespoonfuls of grated Parmesan cheese. + + fish, cover in the kettle with cold water and, plenty of salt. Bring + fish, cover in the kettle with cold water and plenty of salt. Bring + + and moisten with hot water, then add a few drops of vinegar a dash of + and moisten with hot water, then add a few drops of vinegar, a dash of + + on each side of the bone, duct with pepper and salt, dip in flour, + on each side of the bone, dust with pepper and salt, dip in flour, + + parsely, salt and paprika, and serve with a rich wine jelly on a + parsley, salt and paprika, and serve with a rich wine jelly on a + + please an American palate fully as well as the crevettes. + please an American palate fully as well as the crevettes.) + + say, "is the soul of the salad." + say, "is the soul of the salad.") + + ] + + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Twenty-four Little French Dinners and +How to Cook and Serve Them, by Cora Moore + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 24 LITTLE FRENCH DINNERS *** + +***** This file should be named 29970-0.txt or 29970-0.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/2/9/9/7/29970/ + +Produced by Jana Srna and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was +produced from images generously made available by The +Internet Archive/American Libraries.) + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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Donations are accepted in a number of other +ways including including checks, online payments and credit card +donations. To donate, please visit: https://pglaf.org/donate + + +Section 5. General Information About Project Gutenberg-tm electronic +works. + +Professor Michael S. Hart was the originator of the Project Gutenberg-tm +concept of a library of electronic works that could be freely shared +with anyone. For thirty years, he produced and distributed Project +Gutenberg-tm eBooks with only a loose network of volunteer support. + + +Project Gutenberg-tm eBooks are often created from several printed +editions, all of which are confirmed as Public Domain in the U.S. +unless a copyright notice is included. Thus, we do not necessarily +keep eBooks in compliance with any particular paper edition. + + +Most people start at our Web site which has the main PG search facility: + + https://www.gutenberg.org + +This Web site includes information about Project Gutenberg-tm, +including how to make donations to the Project Gutenberg Literary +Archive Foundation, how to help produce our new eBooks, and how to +subscribe to our email newsletter to hear about new eBooks. diff --git a/29970-0.zip b/29970-0.zip Binary files differnew file mode 100644 index 0000000..bba0cb3 --- /dev/null +++ b/29970-0.zip diff --git a/29970-8.txt b/29970-8.txt new file mode 100644 index 0000000..9b476f9 --- /dev/null +++ b/29970-8.txt @@ -0,0 +1,2577 @@ +The Project Gutenberg EBook of Twenty-four Little French Dinners and How +to Cook and Serve Them, by Cora Moore + +This eBook is for the use of anyone anywhere at no cost and with +almost no restrictions whatsoever. You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Twenty-four Little French Dinners and How to Cook and Serve Them + +Author: Cora Moore + +Release Date: September 12, 2009 [EBook #29970] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 24 LITTLE FRENCH DINNERS *** + + + + +Produced by Jana Srna and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was +produced from images generously made available by The +Internet Archive/American Libraries.) + + + + + + + + + + [ Transcriber's Note: + Every effort has been made to replicate this text as faithfully as + possible, including inconsistencies in spelling and hyphenation; + changes (corrections of spelling and punctuation) made to the + original text are listed at the end of this file. + ] + + + + + TWENTY-FOUR LITTLE + FRENCH DINNERS + AND + How to Cook and Serve Them + + BY + + CORA MOORE + + NEW YORK + E. P. DUTTON & COMPANY + 681 Fifth Avenue + + + Copyright 1919, by + E. P. DUTTON & COMPANY + + All Rights Reserved + + Printed in the United States of America + + + + +PREFACE + + +The Little Dinners of Paris are world-famous. No one can have sojourned +in the fascinating capital in its normal days without having come under +their spell. To Parisien and visitor alike they are accounted among the +uniquely characteristic features of the city's routine life. + +Much of the interest that attaches to them is, of course, due to local +atmosphere, to the associations that surround the quaint restaurants, +half hidden in unexpected nooks and by-ways, to the fact that old +Jacques "waits" in his shirtsleeves or that Grosse Marie serves you with +a smile as expansive as her own proportions, or that it is Justin or +François or "Old Monsoor," with his eternal grouch, who glides about the +zinc counter. + +But there is also magic in the arrangement of the menus, in the +combinations of food, in the very names of the confections and in the +little Gallic touches that, simple though they are, transform +commonplace dishes into gastronomic delights. + +There is inspiration in the art that enters into the production of a +French dinner, in the perfect balance of every item from hors d'oeuvre to +café noir, in the ways with seasoning that work miracles with left-overs +and preserve the daily routine of three meals a day from the deadly +monotony of the American régime, in the garnishings that glorify the +most insignificant concoctions into objects of appetising beauty and in +the sauces that elevate indifferent dishes into the realm of creations +and enable a French cook to turn out a dinner fit for capricious young +gods from what an American cook wastes in preparing one. + +The very economy of the French is an art, and there is art in their +economy. It is true that their dishes, as we have known them in this +country, are expensive, even extravagant, but that is because they have +been for the most part the creations of high-priced chefs. They who have +made eating an avocation know that it is not necessary to dine +expensively in order to dine well. + + C. M. + +New York, May, 1919. + + + + +CONTENTS + + + PAGE + + Preface v + + The Bugbear of American Cookery--Monotony 1 + + Flavor--Handmaid of Variety 9 + + True Trails toward Economy 15 + + The Appeal to the Eye 21 + + Sauces, Simple and Otherwise 25 + + Twenty-four Little French Dinners 33 + (With Directions for Preparing) + + Let Us Eat Fish! 109 + + + + + TWENTY-FOUR LITTLE + FRENCH DINNERS + AND + How to Cook and Serve Them + + + + +THE BUGBEAR OF AMERICAN COOKERY--MONOTONY + + +It is as strange as it is true that with the supplies that have lately +proved sufficient to feed a world to draw upon the chief trouble with +American cookery is its monotony. The American cook has a wider variety +of foods at his command than any other in the world, yet in the average +home how rarely is it that the palate is surprised with a flavor that +didn't have its turn on the corresponding day last week or tickled with +a sauce that is in itself an inspiration and a delight, not a mere +"gravy," liable to harden into lumps of grease when it cools. + +Most of this is simply the result of blindly following tradition. +Daughter has accepted mother's precepts, regarding them even as the law +of the Medes and the Persians, "which altereth not," and if it were not +that increased prices and, lately, at least, "food regulations," have +veritably compelled her toward a more wholesome simplicity, the United +States would probably be what it was called half a generation ago, "a +nation of dyspeptics." And we were a nation of dyspeptics because the +great American mother of the latter end of the Nineteenth Century, in +spite of all her unequaled qualities in every other direction, and in +spite of all the encomiums she received in resounding prose or ecstatic +verse for her prowess in the kitchen, was from the points of view of +health, economy and wisdom the worst cook in the world. + +With prices as they are the American housewife cannot afford to use +butter and eggs and flour with the prodigality that was a habit with her +mother, but so limited is the average woman's knowledge of cookery that +these restrictions merely mean more monotony than ever. It is partly to +demonstrate that this state of things is unnecessary and that true food +economy is not at all synonymous with "going without" that this book has +been compiled. + +It is upon variety that the French cook confidently relies to make each +dish of each meal not just something to eat because her family must have +food, not merely a sop to the Cerberus-gnawings of hunger, but a delight +to the eye, to the palate, to the stomach--truly a consummation devoutly +to be wished for the American home table, and just as possible to attain +as it is possible to procure from the grocer or the nearest pharmacist +the ingredients by which these wonders are wrought. + +But the average American woman doesn't look beyond her own kitchen and +her own traditional row of spice boxes for her flavorings. She has her +"kitchen set," which ordinarily comprises a row of little receptacles +labeled "pepper," "salt," "cloves," "allspice," "ginger," "cinnamon," +"nutmeg," and possibly one or two other spices or condiments--rarely +more. With these and a bottle each of lemon extract and vanilla, she is +satisfied that she is fully equipped as far as flavoring possibilities +are concerned. + +If she has laid in a box of sage and one of mixed dressing with, +perhaps, some paprika and thyme, she views her foresightedness with much +complacency. She is supplied with savories. + +Then she goes right on sighing, "Oh, for a new meat, instead of the same +old round of mutton, pork, beef and fish; fish, beef, mutton and pork," +disclaiming utterly any responsibility for the monotony that is +undermining the family health and temper and, quite possibly, its +morals. + +That is where the American housewife makes her primary and most +important mistake. The French, on the other hand, know that there are, +literally, hundreds of ways to vary every dish, however ordinary it may +be in its primary state. That is their secret of success: unfailing +variety coupled with economy. + +However, this is not to claim that the American palate would take kindly +to all the French cooks' little delicacies, or that it could be +cultivated to that degree that makes a Frenchman regard a perfectly +balanced meal even as an inspired poem. + +Probably Americans, as a class, could never be induced to eat some of +the little birds--the _mauviettes_, the _alouettes_, the sparrows baked +in a pie, that so delight the Frenchman. Also, it is a question whether +snails, even if it were possible to obtain the superior Burgundian, fat +and juicy and cooked even as our own Oscar used to prepare them for +certain Waldorf guests, would ever appeal to the American taste, as even +the common hedgerow sort of snail does to the average Frenchman. + +It is not that the French dinners of Monte Carlo are necessarily so +superior to American shore dinners, or that the little dinners of Paris +are so infinitely to be preferred to those, say, of certain places in +New Orleans, or that the coppery-tasting oysters of Havre are to be +compared with those of our own Baltimore. There is no more to be said, +probably, for the woodcock patés of old Montreuil, or the _rillettes_ of +Tours, or the little pots of custard one gets at the foreign Montpelier, +or the _vol-au-vent_, which is the pride and boast of the cities of +Provence, than there is for grandmother's cookies such as have put +Camden, Maine, on the map, or Lady Baltimore cakes, or the chicken pies +one goes to northern New Hampshire to find in their glory, or the +turkeys that, as much as the Green Mountains, make Vermont's fame. + +Still, there is no question but that the American palate would benefit +much by being cultivated, not only in the interests of economy, but also +with a view to the increase of gastronomic pleasure, for a taste attuned +to many variations is as an ear sensitive to the nuances of sweet sounds +or an eye trained to perceive delicate tones and tints. It is really a +matter for regret that we, as a people, have not been as willing to +learn from the French the art of cooking and eating as we have been to +acquire from them knowledge of the art of dress. Until we widen our +horizon sufficiently to do this, we have not even begun to develop all +our food resources or to understand the first principles of true food +economy--which is not at all synonymous with "going without." + + + + +FLAVOR, HANDMAID OF VARIETY + + +It is because he has a multitude of seasonings at his command and knows +how to use them that the French cook is enabled not only to send to the +table an infinite variety of dishes, but, at the same time, to practice +economies that were otherwise impossible. The American buys an expensive +cut of meat and, as is right in such a case, treats it as plainly and +simply as possible. The Frenchman buys meat of a much lower quality, but +so embellishes it that when it comes to the table it is superior, or, at +least, equal to that which costs much more. + +It may be objected that this is no real economy, because by the time the +French cook has sauced and spiced his cheap cut in order to make it +palatable, the cost is as great, if not greater than it would have been +had he paid more for his meat in the first place. This would be true +enough according to the average American's method of procedure. But it +is to be remembered that the French cook has already in his kitchen the +cooking vinegars, the spices, the dried herbs, the extracts, that in +very small amounts--a dash or a few leaves--are used at a time; also, +that in a great number of cases, gravies and sauces are made from the +by-products of the main dishes--those by-products that in the American +kitchen usually go down the sink-drain or into the garbage pail. + +Take a peep into the typical French cupboard. There you will find from +twenty-five to thirty liquid seasonings such as anchovy extract, tobasco +sauce, meat extracts, mushroom catsup, tomato paste, chutney, various +vinegars, Worcestershire and many another flavoring designed to give a +tang and a zest even to the most unpromising dish, if used aright. There +you will find, too, fifty or more dry seasonings, including anise, +basil, saffron, savoury, clove or garlic, cassia buds, bay leaf, ginger +root, pepper-corns, marjoram, mint, thyme, capers and so on. + +Herein lie the "secrets" of French cookery which are, in truth, not +secrets at all, but merely the application of common sense to the +cuisine. The French have never allowed their taste to be restricted by +prejudice, so they hail a new flavor with delight rather than +registering an instinctive dislike because it is not familiar. With a +little applied education, Americans can bring the charm of the French +table to their own homes rather than when they are, as they say, tired +of the same old round of "eats," seeking out a nondescript table d'hôte +restaurant and eagerly consuming what is set before them, grateful for a +change. + +But don't harden your heart against French cookery merely because you +have sampled it, as you fondly think, at one or another of the +"red-inkeries" of New York or any other city. For the most part the +"French" restaurants of the land are in reality not French at all, but +Italian for the most part, and whatever Gallic flavor the remainder ever +possessed has well-nigh vanished. There may be exceptions but, if there +are, their patrons carefully guard the secret. + +But to return to our subject: It is the French cook's knowledge of the +subtleties, the nuances of seasoning that stands him in good stead. The +American woman who has essayed to use some spice or savory unfamiliar to +her and has turned out a dish which her family has declared "tasted like +medicine" is, naturally enough, discouraged from wandering after that +particular strange god again. The truth is that she has overdone the +seasoning. She doesn't want to be parsimonious, which is just what the +French cook is with his flavors, only he, more scientifically, calls it +using good judgment. If he uses garlic in a salad, it doesn't +necessarily follow that the entire household must take on the +atmosphere of an Italian barber shop, for he uses garlic or onion, not +to give their flavor to a dish, but to bring out the flavors of the +vegetables with which they are used. + +Vanilla and lemon have an almost universal appeal to the palate, and +knowing this, the American cook, like the generation before her, has +always seasoned her rice puddings, for instance, with one or the other, +just as her apple sauce has invariably been flavored with lemon or +nutmeg, her bread pudding with vanilla, and so all along her restricted +line. + +The French cook holds no brief against vanilla, and sometimes he flavors +his rice pudding with it, but he so guides matters that the very sight +or mention of rice pudding does not bring the thought of vanilla to the +mind, for with him it may be flavored with pistache or rose or have a +geranium leaf baked in it, giving a delightful, indescribable flavor. An +ordinary bread pudding becomes veritably a queen of puddings as, +indeed, it is called, merely by having a layer of jam through its center +and a simple icing spread over the top. Ordinary pea soup exhibits +chameleon-like possibilities merely through the addition of a little +celery-root, a dash of curry or the admixture of a few spoonfuls of +minced spinach, and tomato soup has for most an appeal that even this +favorite of soups never had before when just the right amount of thyme +is added while it simmers, along with, perhaps a bayleaf. + +In the recipes appended to the little dinners in this book a great many +of the French cooks' materials and methods of procedure are set forth. +But if the ordinarily experimental American housewife has the flavorings +on hand, she will doubtless herself contrive many an alluring dish of +her own. Variety is said to be the spice of life. However that may be, +the spices and their friends, the herbs, certainly make for variety in +that important function of life, the dinner table. + + + + +TRUE TRAILS TOWARD ECONOMY + + +In the first place, no trail toward economy in conducting the cuisine of +a household lies through the delicatessen store or the "fancy" grocery. +It is an unflattering comment on the spirit of thrift of American +housewives that the delicatessen store has settled down to such a +flourishing existence, particularly in Eastern cities. Any woman who +possesses a stove and a kitchen of her own should be ashamed to admit +the laziness that more than a semi-occasional visit to these "delicate +eating" places predicates. There are few things to be had in them that +she shouldn't be able to make better at home and at a cost that is but a +fraction of what she has to pay for the usually inferior, impersonal +messes that come ready-made. + +If the housewife has read some of the very excellent instructions that +were printed to help her conduct her household adequately amid the +necessary limitations of wartime, she already knows that there is +absolutely no excuse for ever throwing away a crust or crumb of bread. +As for that, neither is there any excuse for ever disposing of what is +left of the morning cereal except to the advantage of some later made +dish, or of consigning meat scraps or bits of fat or even bones to the +garbage pail. It is not only that, in the interests of economy, she +should use them; it is rather that if she is a good cook she will be +very glad to have them to use. + +Stale bread and breadcrumbs are the bases of a score of the most +delicious puddings on the French cook's card; cooked cereal is one of +the best thickenings for soups and gravies, as well as being far more +wholesome than flour for this purpose; meat scraps, trimmings and bones +should go into the stock pot. When a soup made of these is served as the +introductory course at dinner it will be found that the family will be +fully satisfied with much less meat, and it is in the lessening +dependence of Americans on meat that will make for the greatest item in +economy. + +A French cook of parts would tear his hair if he could see how fats and +drippings from meats are thrown away in many an American kitchen. They +are poured into the sink till the drain pipes clog and, to complete the +little serial of extravagance, the plumber has to be called. The French +cook knows that this is the finest grease for frying in the world and +that its use would save many a pound of butter. He strains it all +carefully and keeps the different sorts in labelled jars or crocks. He +knows by experience what particular fats give the best flavors to +certain things, and he knows that vegetables, fish, eggs, pancakes and +what not are far better fried in these natural fats. Who that ever ate +an egg fried in bacon drippings will ever want one cooked in butter, +even at a dollar a pound! + +One will not find the delicatessen flourishing in France--one will not +find it at all--and the fancy grocery, above mentioned, is another +pitfall for the American housewife. She likes the sight of food done up +in fancy containers, in glass, perhaps, and buys them, not realizing +that she is paying a large price for perfectly unnecessary and totally +unnourishing "pretties." If she is fearful of the handling some loose +food stuffs may be subjected to in the stores, why does she not practice +the most practical economy, go to the fountain-head of supplies in the +city, the large market, and buy in quantity, so far as she can? A few +ounces of bacon, already sliced, and sealed in a glass dish are, indeed, +appetising even in their raw state, while a side of bacon is not, unless +looked upon through the eyes of imagination, yet the latter method of +purchasing this commodity is two or three hundred per cent cheaper, and +when it arrives at the breakfast table it will be found every bit as +appealing to a happy morning appetite. + +Any consideration of economy in the cuisine must include the meat +problem. Meat is the most expensive item on the menu and the true +solution of the question is not only to conserve all the uses of it but +to eat much less. That would make not only for economy, but for better +health as well. + +It has been estimated that 186 pounds of dressed meat is--or was prior +to the war--the yearly average of consumption for every American; the +Englishman being a good second with his 120 pounds, while the Frenchman +remained perfectly contented and healthy with 79 pounds, the Italian +with 72 pounds, and the Swiss, anything but a nation of invalids, +managed very well on 60 pounds per person. + +This is no plea for vegetarianism, though it may be said in passing for +the benefit of those who think that good red blood and hardy muscle are +to be obtained only by absorbing the red blood and muscle of the beasts +of the field, that there is as much, if not more, of this building +power in the beans, the peas, the lentils that we regard too often as +mere secondary foods. + +Most of all the American should take advantage of the great stores of +fish which are equally as nourishing as meat and may easily be made as +appetising with simple sauces that French cookery will teach us. Fish +are cheap; at least, many neglected kinds are; they are easy to cook and +they are one of the best foods in the world. + + + + +THE APPEAL TO THE EYE + + +No one, least of all the French cook, calculates to feast the eye at the +expense of the sense of taste, yet it is his experience after long years +that good digestion is much more likely to wait upon the appetite that +has been stirred to a preliminary enthusiasm by the attractive +appearance of a dish. So they serve little fritters of vegetables, dabs +of jelly, slices of hard boiled eggs, pickles, parsley, cress and +nasturtiums with meats, put sprigs of fresh green in their gravies, +decorate desserts with nut-meats, flowers and fruits, and in so doing +add a bit to the gayety of the table, satisfied that the trifling extra +expense, time and energy incurred is more than compensated for in the +pleasure the results afford. A fair trial of this pleasant idiosyncrasy +of the French is convincing that the appearance of a dish has more +bearing on the relish of a meal than we over here have fully realized. + +They are particular, however, to be consistent in the use of +garnishings. Flowers and fruits are reserved for sweet dishes, except in +the case of nasturtiums, which they regard as much a vegetable as a +flower and use freely with meats. + +A stew or a creamed dish is merely a more or less indifferent something +to eat when it is dished up any old way and set upon the table. But if +it is heaped daintily on a pretty platter, surrounded by a ring of brown +mashed potato, its sides decorated by dainty shapes of toasted bread, +perhaps buttered and sprinkled with minced parsley, it has become +something to awaken the slumbering or indifferent appetite and at +practically no extra expense of time or money. + +If the yolks of two hard boiled eggs are minced and mixed with part of +the raw white of one, the paste then formed into balls like marbles and +dropped into boiling water, one has little yellow spheres to lend an +enlivening color note to clear soups. Two or three of these dropped into +each plate just before serving makes a pleasing change from the usual +croutons. + +Sprigs of fresh chickory make the daintiest of garnishes for cold meats, +and a few of the tender green stalks will add to the appearance of +practically any salad. As for water-cress and pepper-grass and, of +course, parsley, minced and otherwise, no French chef would think of +preparing a meal without a plentiful supply of them on hand. + +It isn't essential that every dish should be turned into an elaborate +work of art, as if it were to be entered at the annual exhibition of the +Société des Chefs de Cuisine, but neither is there any reason, even with +modest means at command, for giving cause for that old slogan of the +great American dinner table: "It tastes better than it looks." + + + + +SAUCES, SIMPLE AND OTHERWISE + + +Brillat-Savarin, who would be remembered as a wit had he not been even +more brilliant as a chef, paid his respects to the English by saying +they were a nation of a hundred religions and only one sauce. Being a +true Frenchman he believed a reversal of the numbers better for the +soul. It is certainly better for the appetite. + +To be sure the proper mental sauce for a good dinner is wit, and the +best physical one, hunger, but as we all of us have more or less of an +Epicurean strain in us and do not eat solely to satisfy bodily needs, it +is well that the American cook who essays to bring variety to her board +should have some knowledge of those Gallic creations, the sauces, by +which she is enabled to transform plain dishes into seemingly +pretentious ones, even though she never attain that sauce that Balzac +knew, "in which a mother might unsuspectingly eat her own child." + +In the first place every French chef keeps three kinds of what he calls +_roux_ on hand, ready for making meat and fish sauces. These are made by +cooking together eight ounces of butter and nine ounces of flour. That +intended for use with brown meats is stirred together till it becomes a +medium brown in shade; white _roux_ is cooked only sufficiently to +banish the raw taste and not allowed to color, while pale _roux_ is kept +over the fire just long enough to attain a deep cream color. These are +mixed with milk, soup stock, water or gravy as the case may be when a +sauce for fish, meat or vegetables is needed. + +For instance, to make _Sauce à la Crème_, for use with white entrées, +take two tablespoonfuls of the white _roux_ in a saucepan with a cup of +milk and a tablespoonful each of finely chopped parsley, shallots and +chives. Boil fifteen minutes, pass through a colander into another +saucepan, add a small lump of butter, more finely chopped parsley and +salt and pepper. Mix well with a wooden spoon and it is ready for the +table. + +To make a favorite _Sauce Piquante_, cut two onions into slices, also a +carrot and two shallots and put into a saucepan with a scant +tablespoonful of butter. While heating over a moderate fire, add a sprig +of thyme, a tablespoonful of minced parsley, a bayleaf and two or three +cloves. When the onions are golden brown add a tablespoonful of flour, a +little plain stock and a tablespoonful of vinegar. Boil again, pass +through a sieve and season with salt and pepper. + +A simple sauce is that _Maître d'Hôtel_, which is rarely made at home +though so generally liked. Put a lump of butter into a small saucepan +over a moderate fire and add to it chopped parsley and chives, or +parsley alone. Season with salt and pepper and a little lemon juice and +while it is sizzling pour over the hot steak or fish. + +_Sauce d'Anchois_, than which there isn't anything better with baked +fish, is also easy to make. Take three or four anchovies and mash them +up well with two tablespoonfuls of butter. Now make about a pint of +brown sauce with brown _roux_ and milk, and stir the anchovy butter into +it. Just before taking from the fire add the juice of half a lemon or +more, according to taste. + +_Sauce Bearnaise_ was a favorite of Henry of Navarre, and it is +excellent with steaks, chops and, particularly, roast beef. To make it +beat the yolks of three or four eggs in a saucepan, add a tablespoonful +of butter and a little salt. Stir over a slow fire till the eggs begin +to thicken, then remove and stir in two more tablespoonfuls of butter, +stirring till the butter is dissolved. Season with chopped fine herbs +and parsley and pour in a teaspoonful of French vinegar. + +In many parts of France they have a favorite dressing for boiled fish +called _Sauce Ravigote_. To make it mix half a pint of stock in a +saucepan with a small amount of white wine or cider, then chop fine +herbs such as chervil, tarragon, chives and parsley, or whatever other +herbs are in season, to the amount of about three tablespoonfuls, and +mix with the stock, adding salt and pepper. Stew gently for about twenty +minutes, then blend a tablespoonful each of flour and butter, stir into +the sauce and continue to stir till thick. Just before serving squeeze +in the juice of half a lemon. + +The word "_Ravigote_" means, literally, "pick me up," and it is applied +to minced tarragon, chervil, chives and parsley, the herbs being kept +separate and served with salad on four little saucers. _Ravigote_ +butter, made by kneading butter with the four herbs and adding pepper, +salt and lemon juice, spread between thin slices of bread, makes +delicious sandwiches. + +To make the very generally liked _Sauce Blanquette_, which is used to +raise cold meats to the dignity of a fricassée, take about four ounces +of pale _roux_, thin slightly with boiling water added by degrees, then +put in a bunch of sweet herbs, cooked button mushrooms and small onions +and pepper and salt to taste. Put in whatever cold meat you have, cook +till it is well heated and serve. + +The following is called _Sauce d'Havre_, and through the use of it it +will be discovered that the taste of curry is an agreeable one in many +another case than in connection with the veal and rice arrangement to +which most American cooks restrict it. Peel and slice four onions and +two apples and place in a stewpan with four ounces of butter, six +peppercorns, a sprig of thyme, two bayleaves and a blade of mace. When +the onions have become slightly brown over the moderate fire, stir in a +mixture of two tablespoonfuls of flour and the same amount of curry +powder, shortly afterward adding six gills of white stock and half a +pint of white sauce. Season with salt and half a teaspoonful of moist +sugar, boil for a quarter of an hour, adding more white stock if +necessary, and stirring constantly. Put through a strainer into another +saucepan, boil up again, skim, and use when required. + +Fricasseed chicken takes on a new glory when it is prepared with _Sauce +Lyons_. This is made by stirring gradually three well-beaten eggs into +half a pint of plain white sauce, then placing the mixture in a jar and +standing in boiling water till the sauce thickens. Just prior to pouring +over the chicken add the strained juice of half a lemon. + + + + +TWENTY-FOUR LITTLE FRENCH DINNERS + + + + +I + + +MENU + + Potage à la Duchesse + Cabillaud à la Bechamel + Pommes de Terre, Genevoise + Salade Celeri + Pouding à la Vanille + + +=Potage à la Duchesse.=--Butter a baking sheet, cover with four ounces +of chou paste, cook in the oven for six minutes, then cover the paste +with forcemeat in small lumps, a little distance apart. Cut the paste +into twelve equal sized pieces, each piece holding a lump of the +forcemeat, place in a tureen, pour over a quart of piping hot consommé +and serve. + +=Cabillaud à la Bechamel.=--Mix an ounce of flour with an ounce and a +half of butter melted in a saucepan, then gradually add a pint of milk +which has been allowed previously to simmer with a minced onion and +carrot in it, also a bunch of sweet herbs, two or three cloves, a +grating of nutmeg and pepper and salt. Bring to a boil, add two or three +tablespoonfuls of cream, strain and put back into the saucepan. Now put +in two or three pounds of cod, previously boiled and flaked, being +thoroughly free from skin and bones. Shake all together very gently and +when all is thoroughly hot, turn out onto a silver dish and garnish with +sliced hard-boiled eggs. + +=Pommes de Terre, Genevoise.=--Shred four medium sized boiled potatoes, +season with a little salt and pepper. Butter lightly half a dozen +tartlet moulds, cover the bottoms with grated Parmesan cheese, arrange +in each a layer of potatoes, then another sprinkling of cheese, and so +on till the moulds are filled. Put a little butter on top. Place on a +very hot stove or in a very hot oven for fifteen minutes to half an +hour. Serve on a hot dish in the moulds. + +=Salade Celeri.=--Trim two or three heads of celery, cut into short +shreds, wash thoroughly in cold water and drain. Place in a salad bowl, +season with a little salt, a very little pepper and one or two +tablespoonfuls each of oil and vinegar. Add several sprigs of +pepper-grass and serve at once. + +=Pouding à la Vanille.=--Place a vanilla bean in a mortar together with +half a pound of sugar and pound well together and sift. Separate the +whites from the yolks of three eggs, beat the yolks well, stir them in +with a pint of cream and mix in with the vanilla sugar. Whisk the whites +of the eggs to a stiff froth and mix lightly in with the other +ingredients. Butter a pudding mould, pour in the mixture and cover with +a sheet of oiled paper. Stand the mould in a saucepan of boiling water +and steam the pudding for half an hour. In the meantime prepare the +following sauce: Pour a breakfast cupful of canned or fresh pineapple +juice into a lined pan with the juice of a lemon. Put this on the fire +till it boils, then pour it over a tablespoonful of arrowroot, stirring +all the time. Return the sauce to the saucepan and stir till it thickens +over the fire. When the pudding is cooked, turn it out onto a hot dish, +strain the sauce over it and serve. Be careful that no water enters the +mould containing the pudding while it is cooking, or it will be +spoiled. + + + + +II + + +MENU + + Consommé à la Napolitaine + Cabillaud à la Financière + Pommes de Terre en Rubans + Beignets à la Printemps + Choufleur au Gratin + Bavaroise au Café + + +=Consommé à la Napolitaine.=--Place in a saucepan with a lump of butter +equal quantities of finely minced carrots, turnips, a head of lettuce +and one of endive with a little chervil. Add a quart of the water in +which the cauliflower in this dinner was cooked, pepper and salt, and +simmer for an hour. Just before serving stir in the beaten yolk of an +egg and half a pint of milk. + +=Cabillaud à la Financière.=--Cook a piece of cod weighing three pounds +in salted water for twenty minutes, drain a place on a serving platter +covered with the following sauce: Put two glasses of Madeira wine and a +small piece of meat glaze in a saucepan with a pint of Spanish sauce and +a gill each of essence of mushrooms and truffles. Boil till it coats the +spoon. + +=Pommes de Terre en Rubans.=--Take large, smooth, pared potatoes and cut +round and round in spirals about an eighth of an inch thick. Keep +covered with a damp napkin till all are cut, place in a frying basket +and fry in very hot fat till a light straw color. Sprinkle freely with +salt and serve immediately. + +=Beignets à la Printemps.=--Make a sauce of two ounces of butter, four +ounces of flour, a tablespoonful of brandy, a pinch of salt, sufficient +water to make a creamy paste. Cook and, removing from the stove, work in +the whites of two eggs beaten to a stiff froth. Cut into pieces any +fruit desired, dip them in the batter and fry in butter to a light +golden brown. Drain well, place in a serving dish, sprinkle well with +powdered sugar and serve. If the fruit is not fully ripe, parboil in +syrup before using. + +=Choufleur au Gratin.=--Soak a cauliflower in water with plenty of salt, +then boil in plenty of salted water for fifteen minutes. Remove and take +away all the green leaves, lay it on a flat buttered dish, previously +rubbed with an onion, and pour over it a sauce made as follows: Melt an +ounce and a half of butter in a saucepan, add a dessertspoonful of +flour, mix and add a cup of milk. Stir till it thickens, add pepper and +salt and add two or three tablespoonfuls of grated Parmesan cheese. Mix +well and after pouring over the cauliflower sprinkle all over with +breadcrumbs and place the dish in the oven till nicely browned. + +=Bavaroise au Café.=--Mix the beaten yolks of two eggs with a pint of +milk and a cup of very strong black coffee. Bring to a boil in a +saucepan, remove from the fire and allow to get cold, stirring +occasionally. Add the yolks of two more eggs beaten stiff with two +ounces of sugar. Mix well and then add the stiffly beaten whites of the +four eggs along with half an ounce of dissolved gelatin. Pour into a +mould and turn out when set. + + + + +III + + +MENU + + Filet de Sole à la Provençal + Poulet Sauté à l'Estragon + Artichauts à la Barigoule + Petit Petac + Soufflé Georgette + + +=Filets des Soles à la Provençal.=--Sprinkle the filets with pepper and +salt and a little allspice and fry in salad oil with a finely chopped +onion and a little chopped parsley. Serve with a slice of lemon on each +filet. + +=Poulet Sauté à l'Estragon.=--Sprinkle the pieces of a cut up raw +chicken with pepper and salt and cook in a saucepan with a little oil. +Make a gravy of a cupful of clear stock in which tarragon stalks have +been boiled for an hour, dish up the fowl on a hot platter, pour over +the sauce, straining it, and sprinkle on top tarragon leaves blanched +and coarsely chopped. + +=Artichauts à la Barigoule.=--Cut off the tops and leaves of the +artichokes and boil the bottoms in plenty of slightly salted water till +tender. Scoop out the fibrous interior. Grate some cooked bacon into a +saucepan with a gill of fine herbs and a cupful of broth. Cook for five +minutes. Put a little of this mixture in each artichoke, cover the +opening with a slice of lemon and bake in a sauté-pan in the oven for +twenty minutes. + +=Petit Petac.=--Peel tiny new potatoes and sauté in oil till a golden +brown. Sprinkle with chopped parsley and serve. + +=Soufflé Georgette.=--Grate a half-dozen stale macaroons into a half-cup +of brandy, add a pint of cream and two teaspoonfuls of dissolved +gelatine. Whip in a dozen maraschino cherries and turn into a mould to +harden. Serve with macaroons dipped into the liquid that comes around +the maraschino cherries. A custard may be used in this recipe instead of +the cream. + + + + +IV + + +MENU + + Potage au Riz + Rougets en Papillotes + Veau à la Suzette + Demi tasse + + +=Potage au Riz.=--Put half a pound of well-washed rice into a saucepan +with two quarts of vegetable stock and boil till tender. When the rice +is cooked move the saucepan to the side of the fire and mix in a cupful +of stewed tomatoes and an ounce and a half of butter. Serve with sippets +of toast or croutons that have been fried in butter. + +=Rougets en Papillotes.=--This recipe is for mullets, but any small, +plump fish may be used. Make a paper case for each fish with a sheet of +well-oiled notepaper and put the cases into the oven for a few minutes +to harden. Sprinkle the under sides of the fish with pepper and salt +and lay them in their cases with a small piece of butter under and over +each. Place the cases in a baking-dish and cook for about twenty minutes +in the oven, or more if the fish are otherwise than small. Sprinkle well +with lemon juice just before serving. + +=Veau à la Suzette.=--Trim saddle of veal neatly and put it into a +saucepan with a good sized piece of butter. Turn it constantly on the +fire till it is a rich golden color all over, then put it onto a dish +and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Add more butter to the gravy in the +saucepan and put in raw potatoes cut up in sections like oranges. Cover +the saucepan and cook, shaking frequently, till the potatoes have a good +color. Add an onion, finely minced, and when it is browned, a clove of +garlic, minced very fine; next put in a tablespoonful of flour followed, +when the flour is brown, by about two cupfuls of stock. Stir well and +put back the meat and any juice that may have oozed from it. Lastly add +a bouquet of herbs, simmer for an hour at least and serve the meat +surrounded by the potatoes with the sauce poured over the whole. + + + + +V + + +MENU + + Potage à l'Américaine + Filet d'Eglefin + Gigot de Mouton aux Épinards + Chou de Mer au Fromage + Petites Crèmes au Chocolat + + +=Potage à l'Américaine.=--Parboil a medium sized cauliflower in salted +water, change the water and boil till done. Drain well and press through +a sieve. Dilute with consommé or broth. Boil a few minutes more, +stirring well. Beat up in a basin the yolk of an egg with three +tablespoonfuls of cream, add this to a few tablespoonfuls of the +cauliflower mixture, then, taking the saucepan containing the soup from +the fire, add the egg and cream mixture and stir together. Add half an +ounce of butter and serve with croutons. + +=Filet d'Eglefin.=--Cut a haddock into fillets, trimming into pieces +about six inches long. Dip them in well beaten egg and then into sifted +breadcrumbs and plunge into deep, well-boiling fat, frying to a rich +color, turning occasionally to cook both sides evenly. Remove, drain, +put on a cloth spread over a hot dish and serve with a simple white +sauce. + +=Gigot de Mouton aux Épinards.=--Roast a small leg of mutton, putting +some salt and a small quantity of water at the bottom of the tin. When +half cooked, remove the meat and carefully skim the gravy of all fat. +Return the mutton to the tin, pour gravy over it and surround it with +potatoes cut to the size of walnuts. Put back in the oven, letting the +potatoes cook in the juice of the meat. Meanwhile cook about three +pounds of spinach, drain, squeeze out all water and pass through a +sieve. Return to a saucepan in which about two ounces of butter has been +heated and season with pepper and salt. Add a tablespoonful of gravy +from the mutton and allow the spinach to simmer till the meat is done. +Then pile the spinach with the potatoes about the meat and serve, having +the gravy in a sauceboat. + +=Chou de Mer au Fromage.=--Carefully wash sea-kale to remove grit, +remove any black parts from the roots and tie up the shoots in small +bundles. Cook in boiling salted water for twenty minutes, drain and keep +hot. Mix on the fire an ounce of butter and a tablespoonful of flour, +moisten with half a cup of water in which the kale was cooked, bring to +a boil and mix in two or three tablespoonfuls of grated Parmesan cheese. +Take from the fire and add the beaten yolk of an egg. Arrange the kale +on a hot dish, pour the sauce over and serve immediately. + +=Petites Crèmes au Chocolat.=--Mix two tablespoonfuls of chocolate or +cocoa in a cup of boiling milk and sweeten to taste. When nearly cold +add to this the yolks of two eggs, well beaten, and a gill of heavy +cream. Mix thoroughly and strain into china cases. Place these in a +large shallow stewpan containing just sufficient water to reach half way +up on the cases. Let steam for twenty minutes, when the custard ought to +be firm. The water should be boiling when the cases are first put in, +but afterwards may simmer. Put the cases on ice, and serve as cold as +possible with little sponge cakes or lady fingers. + + + + +VI + + +MENU + + Potage purée de Pois Secs + Saumon à la Hollandaise + Pommes de Terre, Barigoule + Haricots verts au riz tomate + + +=Potage Purée de Pois Secs.=--Boil a pint of green peas in three pints +of water with a piece of fat ham or bacon, two carrots, an onion, a +leek, a bayleaf, some parsley, pepper and salt. Allow to simmer two or +three hours, stirring occasionally. Pass the peas and onions through a +hair sieve and add the strained liquor. Return to the saucepan, boil up, +add some whole cooked peas with a little mint and serve. + +=Saumon à la Hollandaise.=--Cut a piece of salmon from the middle of the +fish, cover in the kettle with cold water and plenty of salt. Bring +slowly to a boil, removing scum, and allow to simmer till the fish is +done. Drain thoroughly and serve with the following sauce in a boat: +Take three ounces of butter, the yolks of two eggs and put them in a +double boiler over the fire, stirring briskly till the butter is +dissolved. Mix in a scant ounce of flour, stir well and add the juice of +a lemon, half a pint of milk, a little grated nutmeg and pepper and +salt. Stir constantly till the sauce thickens to the consistency of a +custard. + +=Pommes de Terre, Barigoule.=--Place ten potatoes in a saucepan with +enough broth to cover them and boil slowly till done. Drain, taking care +not to break them. Put a teacupful of olive oil into a deep frying pan, +heat, put in the potatoes, tossing them till they are browned all over +lightly. Place on a dish and sprinkle with salt, pepper and vinegar. +Serve piping hot. + +=Haricots verts au riz tomate.=--Boil rice carefully so that every grain +will be separate, toss it in a little butter and moisten with tomato +sauce and add the yolk of an egg, well beaten and stirred in, and a +little Parmesan cheese. Make a border of the rice on a dish and pile in +the center some French beans plainly boiled and tossed in a little +butter with some pepper and salt. + + + + +VII + + +MENU + + Potage Velouté + Brochet à la Tartare + Biftecks sautés aux Olives + Pommes de Terre à la Lyonnaise + Épinards au Gratin + Beignets Soufflés + + +=Potage Velouté.=--Boil a cup and a half of tapioca in two quarts of +water and season with salt and pepper. At the bottom of a tureen place a +lump of butter, and the yolks of two eggs, pour the tapioca over while +it is still boiling, add a pint of hot milk and serve. + +=Brochet à la Tartare.=--Cut a fresh pike into slices and marinade each +slice separately with a sauce made of sufficient olive oil, black +pepper, a minced onion, finely cut mushrooms and chopped parsley. Cover +the fish with breadcrumbs and broil, brushing occasionally with the +marinade. When it is a golden color remove from the fire, place on a hot +platter and serve sprinkled with parsley with a tartar sauce in a +sauceboat. + +=Biftecks sautés aux Olives.=--Cut the steak into six pieces and toss in +a frying pan with lard. When well done sprinkle with seasoning and +remove from the fire. Then take half a glass of white wine, a +tablespoonful of consommé, two or three dozen green olives, with the +pits removed, and boil together for a few minutes. Set the steak in a +crown on the platter and in the center place the dressing. Pour the +gravy from the frying pan over all and serve. + +=Pommes de Terre à la Lyonnaise.=--Take a dozen potatoes of the same +size, cut into pieces the size of a quarter of a dollar, roll in flour +and put into a frying pan with boiling fat, taking them out when they +are a golden brown. Also fry some thin slices of onion, mix with the +potatoes, sprinkle with salt and serve garnished with parsley. + +=Épinards au Gratin.=--Boil two pounds of spinach and chop very fine. +Beat up two eggs to each pound of spinach, mix with it and sprinkle the +whole with breadcrumbs. Pour over some olive oil or melted butter and +heat thoroughly in the oven in a vegetable dish. + +=Beignets Soufflés.=--Put a pound of flour, a pinch of salt, a liquor +glass of rum, the yolks of three eggs and a quantity of lukewarm water +into a mixing dish and beat these together till it shrinks from the +dish. Then mix in the well-beaten whites of the eggs and then allow to +rise for an hour or so. Have a baking dish very hot and put in the paste +in pieces the size of a nut, which will triple in size while cooking. +Let them cook to a golden color, remove from the fire and sprinkle with +powdered sugar. Serve hot. + + + + +VIII + + +MENU + + Consommé Royale + Filet de Sole à la Vénétienne + Salade Barbe de Capucin + Beignets de Pêches + + +=Consommé Royale.=--Beat two eggs and mix them with half a cup of milk +and a pinch of salt. Pour into a basin, stand this in a larger one +containing hot water, place in the oven and bake till the contents of +the small basin are firm, renewing water in the larger dish if +necessary. Allow to cool and when set cut into small well-shaped pieces, +pour over them a quart of hot consommé and serve immediately. + +=Filet de Sole à la Vénétienne.=--Place in a buttered tin two small or +one large onion cut in thin slices, a little chopped parsley, a bayleaf, +one or two whole cloves and salt and pepper. Lay the fillets of two +soles on these with a generous piece of butter, pour over half a pint of +white stock and a small glass of white wine. Cover the tin with oiled +paper, and bake in the oven for about twelve minutes. When the fish is +cooked take out all the liquor except just enough to keep the fish moist +as it remains in the oven turned very low, strain it and add +three-quarters of an ounce of flour and the same amount of butter. Bring +the sauce to a boil, take it from the fire, add the yolk of an egg and a +good amount of blanched parsley and chervil, chopped very fine. Arrange +the fillets of sole on a hot dish, pour the sauce over and serve. + +=Salade Barbe de Capucin.=--Carefully pick over and break into +convenient pieces the required amount of chicory and place in a salad +bowl well rubbed with an onion. Just before serving pour over a French +dressing, remembering to be in making it "a spendthrift for oil, a miser +for vinegar, a counselor for salt and a madman to stir it all up." + +=Beignets des Pêches.=--Peel, stone and cut in halves some firm peaches. +Toss about in a bowl with sugar, being careful not to break. Put a pound +of flour in a basin and stir in gradually half a pint of water. Mix the +whites of two stiffly beaten eggs with this batter and then add one and +a quarter ounces of melted butter. Bring olive oil to a good heat in a +frying pan, dip each piece of peach in the batter and fry in the fat. +When lightly browned drain on a cloth or paper, lay on a baking dish, +sift powdered sugar over and glaze by placing in a hot oven a few +minutes. Arrange in pyramid shape on a folded napkin on a hot dish and +serve immediately. Canned peaches, if firm, may, of course, be +substituted for the fresh fruit. + + + + +IX + + +MENU + + Côtelettes de Saumon, à l'Anglaise + Pommes de Terre, Marquise + Petits Pois à la Paysanne + Salade Américaine + Choux au Chocolat + + +=Côtelettes de Saumon, Anglaise.=--Divide slices of salmon into shape of +cutlets, sprinkle with pepper and salt and put into a saucepan with a +small amount of butter and toss over the fire. When cooked take out and +drain, place on a hot dish and serve with the following sauce: Put three +tablespoonfuls of velouté sauce into a saucepan, reduce slightly and add +one egg, four ounces of butter, a little salt, cayenne, some finely +minced parsley and the juice of half a lemon. Mix together well over +the fire till the ingredients are blended and it is ready. + +=Pommes de Terre, Marquise.=--Boil potatoes in salted water and pass +through a sieve. Season with salt, pepper, nutmeg, chopped parsley and a +little chopped thyme. Moisten with some good gravy or stock and form +into small balls. Dip each in well beaten egg and fry to a light brown +in butter. + +=Petits Pois à la Paysanne.=--Take fresh green peas, or canned ones if +the former are not available, put over the fire in a saucepan with +plenty of butter and stir frequently. Cut one or two rashers of bacon in +very small dice and toss them in a saucepan over the fire. When the +bacon is well fried, mix in with the peas and let the two finish cooking +together, seasoning with pepper, salt and a little sugar. + +=Salade Américaine.=--Cut in rounds resembling a quarter-dollar equal +quantities of new potatoes, carrots and beet root, all previously +cooked. Then add a sour apple, cut in the same shape, and a few +anchovies cut in small pieces. Pour over this a dressing of three parts +oil to one of vinegar, add pepper, salt, mustard and chopped parsley. +Pile the salad up and surround with cress. + +=Choux au Chocolat.=--Into a small saucepan put half a cup of water with +two ounces of butter and one of sugar. When boiling add gradually two +and a half ounces of finely sifted flour and stir till the mixture is +stiff. Take from the fire, stir some more, then add two eggs, one at a +time, beat the whole well, and leave to cool. Butter a baking sheet, lay +the paste on it in round balls the size of a plum and bake in a moderate +oven for about twenty minutes. Allow to cool and then make an incision +in the side of each and fill with whipped cream slightly flavored with +vanilla or with jam. Just before serving glaze each chou slightly with a +chocolate icing. + + + + +X + + +MENU + + Consommé Duchesse + Saumon, Sauce Piquante + Rissolettes de Boeuf + Salade à la Reine + Crème Noyau + + +=Duchesse Consommé.=--Boil four tablespoonfuls of rice (ground) in four +cups of water for fifteen minutes, adding half a teaspoonful each of +salt and sugar. When the rice is soft and just before serving add a +quart of warmed milk, bring to a boil, adding lastly a dash of pepper +and paprika. + +=Saumon, Sauce Piquante.=--Take slices of salmon about three-quarters of +an inch in thickness and place in a saucepan with hot fish broth mixed +with a small quantity of wine. Allow to simmer for fifteen minutes. When +cooked remove and wipe free from broth, place on a hot platter and +serve with a sauce made as follows: Melt a quantity of butter, flavor to +taste with tarragon vinegar, pepper, mustard, fennel and such spices as +are liked. Stir over the fire till cooked, move to the side of the +stove, thicken with the yolk of an egg and serve. + +=Rissolettes de Boeuf.=--With four cups of finely minced beef mix one cup +of breadcrumbs, adding one boiled onion, a little essence of anchovies, +salt, pepper and a raw egg. Make into balls, roll in breadcrumbs and fry +slowly. Prepare a gravy by boiling the trimmings of the meat in the +water in which the onion was boiled, thicken with flour or cornstarch, +add three teaspoonfuls of lemon juice and pour over the rissolettes +which should be arranged on a heated platter around a heap of mashed +potatoes. + +=Salade à la Reine.=--Lay strips of endive lengthwise on the salad +plates and cross them with peeled tomatoes cut in sections like an +orange. Dress with a French salad dressing. + +=Crème Noyau.=--Pound in a mortar together a quarter pound of Jordan and +an ounce of bitter almonds with a scant half cup of cream and two ounces +of sugar. Rub through a sieve into a bowl, add a pint of whipped cream +flavored with Noyau and then an ounce of gelatine dissolved. Pour into a +mould to set. Serve with champagne wafers. + + + + +XI + + +MENU + + Consommé à la Madrilène + Perches aux Fines Herbes + Filets Mignons aux Pommes de Terre + Aubergines Farcies + Omelette au Rhum + + +=Consommé à la Madrilène.=--Put through a medium sieve five or six +boiled ripe tomatoes, or a can of tomatoes, allow to cool and pack in a +freezer. Add to a cold consommé and serve in cups. + +=Perches aux Fines Herbes.=--Prepare six fresh perch and marinade them +with two tablespoonfuls of olive oil, a sprig of parsley, a little +pepper and salt and allspice, bayleaf and other strong spices chopped +fine. Keep the fish in this for about an hour, remove and roll in +breadcrumbs lightly flavored with spices. Grill over a low fire till a +golden brown in color and serve with butter sauce. + +=Filets Mignons aux Pommes de Terre.=--Marinade the required number of +small filets mignon of mutton in butter seasoned with salt and chervil. +Leave for an hour or more and just before they are to be served, grill +them, basting frequently with the butter. Flavor with lemon juice and +serve with buttered fried potatoes. + +=Aubergines Farcies.=--Cut eggplants in halves lengthwise, remove the +inside and of this make a farcie by mixing it with chopped parsley, two +chopped onions and salt and pepper. Stuff the eggplant halves with this +mixture and put the combination into a casserole containing a good +quantity of melted butter and allow to simmer over a slow fire till all +is thoroughly done. Cover the tops with breadcrumbs, add a drop of oil +or a little melted butter and keep piping hot till served. + +=Omelette au Rhum.=--Prepare an omelette as for any sweet omelette and +just before serving place on a hot platter, pour rum over, ignite and +carry to the table blazing. + + + + +XII + + +MENU + + Potage Riz, Creçy + Canapés de Saumon Fumé + Paupiettes de Porc, Sauce Piquante + Asperges en Petits Pois + Tarte à la Turque + + +=Potage Riz, Creçy.=--Cut several firm, red carrots lengthwise, using +only the red part. Place in a casserole with a good bouillon and allow +to simmer over a slow fire. Pass through a sieve when the carrots are +soft, and put back in the bouillon. Add a cupful of cooked rice, bring +to a boil and serve. + +=Canapés de Saumon Fumé.=--Cut a smoked salmon into slices and spread +them with butter, adding pepper and salt and a pinch of nutmeg. Heat +over a crisp fire, place on a hot dish, cover with croutons and serve. + +=Paupiettes de Porc, Sauce Piquante.=--Take small slices of cold roast +pork and spread them with sausage meat. Roll them and fasten with +skewers, then cover with a thin coating of lard or with oiled paper and +cook them over a low fire in a casserole. When thoroughly done, take off +the papers, cover with breadcrumbs and brown. Serve with a piquant +sauce. + +=Asperges en Petits Pois.=--Cut up the green part of two bunches of +asparagus, roll in butter and add a little salt. Heat a cupful of flour, +being careful not to allow it to color, and dredge the asparagus with +it. Put into a saucepan with sufficient milk and water in equal parts to +cover, add a bouquet of herbs and allow the whole to simmer till the +asparagus is cooked. Season with white pepper and serve. + +=Tarte à la Turque.=--Boil a cupful of rice till thick in milk to which +has been added a stick of cinnamon, a little lemon juice and sugar. When +the rice is cooked allow to cool. Make a border of it on a buttered +plate and fill the center with a marmalade made as follows: Cut the +peeled stalks of a bunch of rhubarb into dice and allow them to simmer +in a small amount of water till they are of the consistency of +marmalade. Add three or four teaspoonfuls of sugar, a lump of butter and +the rind of a lemon. Take from the fire and immediately add the beaten +yolks of two eggs. Arrange, as stated, in the middle of the rice, +sprinkle with a little more sugar and set in the oven for fifteen +minutes or more before serving. + + + + +XIII + + +MENU + + Potage à la Chicorée + Allumettes d'Anchois + Boeuf Bouilli en Vinaigrette + Pommes Maire + Salade de Tomates + Crème Brulée + + +=Potage à la Chicorée.=--Pick carefully and wash two or three heads of +chicory, cut into shreds and pass through a little heated butter without +allowing to take color. Then add sufficient of the water in which the +Pommes Maire (below) were boiled to make the required quantity of soup, +add pepper and salt, simmer for an hour. Just after taking from the fire +add the beaten yolk of an egg. Pour into the tureen over toasted slices +of stale bread. + +=Allumettes d'Anchois.=--Make a fritter paste with flour and oil, +omitting salt. Soften with white wine. Wash the desired number of +anchovies, remove the bones and draw out the salt by soaking in milk. +Dip into the paste and fry. + +=Boeuf Bouilli en Vinaigrette.=--Cut cold, lean beef into narrow, thin +slices. Place it in a bowl with a finely chopped onion and some chervil, +a few cut-up gherkins, a teaspoonful of capers, pour oil, a little +vinegar and the juice of half a lemon over, add pepper and salt, toss +well together and serve at once. + +=Pommes Maire.=--Use "kidney" potatoes if procurable; if not, ordinary +potatoes of small size. Boil in salt water and peel while still hot, +then cut in thick chips and place in a casserole and cover with boiling +milk. Season with pepper and salt and allow to boil, turning with a fork +till the milk has boiled away. Remove from the fire, pour over a cup of +rich milk, season again and serve. + +=Salade de Tomates.=--Cut a pound of not too ripe tomatoes into one +inch cubes, add salt, pepper, vinegar and oil to taste and then toss +together with a minced onion. Serve right away. If desired, cold boiled +beef in dainty slices may be added. + +=Crème Brulée.=--Blend a tablespoonful of flour with the yolks of three +eggs and place in a casserole. Pour slowly in a pint or more of milk, +add a pinch of cinnamon, a few drops of extract of lemon or any flavor +desired, and stir constantly over the fire. When the cream is cooked, +make a caramel sauce in a porcelain pot by melting five or six lumps of +sugar and cooking to the browning point. Pour this into a serving dish, +pour the cream over it and allow to cool. + + + + +XIV + + +MENU + + Bisque d'Herbes + Turbot à la Rachel + Choufleur au Gratin + Salade Barbe de Capucin + Gâteau de Frangipane + + +=Bisque d'Herbes.=--Chop together about a handful each of lettuce, +sorrel, spinach, also a small onion, a little celery and some chervil +and cook all with an egg-sized piece of butter for fifteen minutes, +stirring constantly. Then add three tablespoonfuls of flour made smooth +with a little stock, stir in four cupfuls of the cauliflower water +(which you will have from a recipe following) into which has been beaten +the yolk of an egg. Serve very hot with croutons. + +=Turbot à la Rachel.=--Boil the fish in salted water. Whitefish or +haddock will serve as well as turbot. Make the following sauce: Smooth +and brown together two tablespoonfuls of flour and two ounces of butter +and stir in five gills of water in which the fish was boiled, adding a +teaspoonful each of anchovy essence and mushroom catsup. Remove from the +fire and beat in the yolks of two eggs and the juice of one lemon. Color +with liquid carmine or a few drops of cochineal and pour over the fish. + +=Choufleur au Gratin.=--Dip the cauliflower into ice water, then plunge +it into boiling salted water to cook fifteen minutes. Cut a slice off +the stalk, remove the leaves, lay on a flat dish and cover with a cream +sauce. Sprinkle with grated breadcrumbs and grated Parmesan cheese, +brown in the oven and serve. + +=Salade Barbe de Capucin.=--Lay the stalks of American endive in a dish +and cut into small pieces a medium shallot. Mix, add a French dressing +and sprinkle with finely chopped tarragon leaves. + +=Gâteau de Frangipane.=--Whisk together a quarter of a pound of powdered +sugar and the whites of three eggs, then beat in three tablespoonfuls of +milk, the grated peel of a lemon and a dash of salt. Then stir in half a +pound of flour. Bake in patty tins and when done scoop a piece out of +the top of each patty and fill with jam. Then pour over a sauce made as +follows: Put two wineglassfuls of white wine into a small saucepan and +stir in a cupful of orange marmalade with the juice of a lemon. Thicken +with a little corn-starch. + + + + +XV + + +MENU + + Potage Bisque + Canard à la Pertinset + Pommes de Terre à la Crème + Choufleur au Beurre Noir + Salade de Lentilles + Pêches au Vin + + +=Potage Bisque.=--Boil as many crabs as are needed in water, adding +salt, pepper, two good sized onions and equal quantities of carrots and +chives. Remove the crabs and take the meat from the claws. Mash the +vegetables until they form a purée and add a good sized lump of butter. +Place over the fire with water or bouillon and allow to come to a boil. +Serve very hot with croutons and the meat from the crab claws. + +=Canard à la Pertinset.=--Place a carefully prepared duck in a casserole +and dredge it with a lump of melted butter, add two onions, one clove, +a dash of garlic. Put in the oven but do not allow the onions to become +too brown before removing the duck. Then add five or six tomatoes, one +glass of white wine, a glass of bouillon, a few cloves and a bayleaf. +Let this boil over a low fire, then mash the tomatoes and onions, put +back the duck into the casserole and boil for forty minutes. + +=Pommes de Terre à la Crème.=--Put into a casserole a lump of butter, a +pinch of flour, salt and pepper, nutmeg and a young onion. Mix well and +add a cup of rich milk. Place on the fire, stir constantly, and remove +as soon as the mixture comes to a boil. Meanwhile boil as many potatoes +as are required in salted water. Peel and cut into slices, add to the +sauce and serve. + +=Choufleur au Beurre Noir.=--Boil a cauliflower and drain. Add a pinch +of salt, nutmeg and a dash of vinegar to a pint of the water in which +the cauliflower was cooked. Melt two tablespoonfuls of butter and when +it is a light brown add it to the mixture. Pour over the cauliflower on +a hot platter. + +=Salade de Lentilles.=--Having boiled two cupfuls of lentils till they +are tender, season them either hot or cold with a little garlic cut up +fine, or with chives and serve in lettuce leaves with a French dressing. + +=Pêches au Vin.=--Put peaches into a stewpan and cover them with water. +In ten minutes remove the skins. Then place them in a shallow dish and +cover them either with Madeira or Moselle wine and allow them to stand +for at least two hours. Then drain them, place them in the dish in which +they are to be served and cover them with vanilla sugar. Set the wine in +which they have been soaked on the fire, add sugar to taste, and pour +the sauce boiling over the peaches. + + + + +XVI + + +MENU + + Sardines Grillées + Chapon à l'Indienne + Pommes de Terre en Matelote + Salade Beaucaire + Crème Fouettée + + +=Sardines Grillées.=--Grill half a dozen sardines, or as many as desired, +for a few minutes. Melt butter in a frying-pan, stir in a little flour +and moisten with hot water, then add a few drops of vinegar, a dash of +mustard, salt and pepper. Pour this very hot over the sardines. + +=Chapon à l'Indienne.=--Prepare and truss a capon as for roasting, rub +all over with butter and place in a casserole with a good sized slice of +salt pork. Cook over a slow fire for three hours. In the meantime cook a +cupful of rice, season it with a little curry powder and pimento, and +place around the capon on the platter on which it is served. + +=Pommes de Terre en Matelote.=--Slice freshly boiled potatoes and cook +en casserole with seasoning of pepper and salt, two or three sliced +onions, a sprig of chopped parsley, a lump of butter and a small amount +of flour and water. Cook till all the ingredients are well blended and +when heaped on a platter and ready for the table, pour over a glass or +two of wine. + +=Salade Beaucaire.=--Chop coarsely celery and endive together, season +with oil, vinegar and mustard an hour before using. Just before taking +to the table, add chopped boiled ham, a sour apple, diced, moistened +with a little tarragon and mayonnaise. Surround the salad with a border +of small potatoes, boiled and sliced, alternated with slices of beet. + +=Crème Fouettée.=--Whip cream till it is very thick or make about a +quart of custard. Mash thoroughly a pound of cherries or raspberries, or +both with powdered sugar. Mix with the cream or custard, beat again and +serve immediately. In summer this may be iced with good results. + + + + +XVII + + +MENU + + Potage Macédoine + Homards et Champignons + Côtelettes de Mouton à la Brunoise + Petits Pois à la Française + Choux à la Crème + + +=Potage Macédoine.=--Place thin pieces of ham in the bottom of a +saucepan and then put in three each of turnips, potatoes and onions, all +cut up small. Pour in some stock, season with pepper and salt and simmer +till the ham and vegetables are cooked. Add a quart of milk and bring +almost to a boil, strain and serve immediately. + +=Homards et Champignons.=--Cut an equal quantity of lobster meat and +mushrooms into dice. Boil some velouté sauce together with some essence +of mushrooms till somewhat reduced, then thicken and mix with the +lobster and mushrooms. Fill ramekin cases with the preparation, +sprinkle with breadcrumbs, pour over a little melted butter and bake in +the oven till browned. Serve piping hot. + +=Côtelettes de Mouton à la Brunoise.=--Trim mutton cutlets neatly, +cutting away all fat, and place side by side in a large stewpan. Cover +with well-flavored stock and leave to simmer, well covered, for an hour +and a half. Take equal quantities of turnips, onions and celery and +double the amount of carrots, cut all into quarter-inch cubes and fry in +butter till they begin to color, putting in first the carrots, then the +celery, then the onions and last the turnips. When all are done, drain +and allow them to simmer gently in a little common stock. A little while +before the cutlets are done drain off all the surplus stock from the +vegetables, or boil it down quickly over a hot fire. Dress the cutlets +on the rim of a platter, heap the vegetables in the center and pour the +gravy all over them. Accompany with mashed potatoes. + +=Petits Pois à la Française.=--Cook a pint of shelled peas till tender, +drain and place on the back of the fire with not quite a gill of the +water in which they have been boiled, a little flour and an ounce of +butter. Simmer for five minutes, adding pepper and salt to taste and +just before taking from the fire add the yolk of an egg mixed with a +tablespoonful and a half of cream. Serve very hot in china or paper +cases. + +=Choux à la Crème.=--Put a small piece of butter in a saucepan with half +a pint of water, a teaspoonful of sugar, a piece of lemon peel and a +little salt. Boil well together, stir in two tablespoonfuls of flour and +stir till thick and cooked. Allow this paste to cool and then work into +it two eggs and sufficient milk to make it thin enough to drop from a +spoon. Heat lard in a deep frying pan, not quite to the point of +boiling, and with a spoon drop the paste into it in lumps about the size +of a hen's egg. When slightly brown and well swollen, remove the cakes, +drain them well, scoop out a little of the top of each to form a hollow +and allow them to cool. Whip cream to a stiff froth and put a small +amount into the hollow of each chou, arrange on a fancy dish and serve. +The chou may be filled with jelly or preserves if preferred. + + + + +XVIII + + +MENU + + Potage à la Printanière + Paupiettes de Veau + Pommes de Terre, Maître d'Hôtel + Salade de Laitue + Feuillantines + + +=Potage à la Printanière.=--Cut two carrots and one turnip into shapes +with a vegetable scoop, simmer for twenty minutes in salted water, drain +and place in a quart of the water in which the potatoes (in this same +menu) were boiled. Add a handful of chiffonade, cook five minutes and +serve. + +=Paupiettes de Veau.=--Cut thin cutlets from a fillet of veal and beat +them flat and even. Also mince a small quantity of the veal very fine, +mix it with some of the kidney fat, also minced fine, and half a dozen +minced anchovies, adding a little salt, ginger and powdered mace. Place +this mixture over the slices of veal and roll them up. Beat up an egg, +dip the rolled slices in it and then in sifted breadcrumbs. Let them +stand for fifteen or twenty minutes, egg them again, roll in breadcrumbs +and fry to a golden brown in boiling lard or clarified dripping, or stew +them in some rich gravy with half a pint of white wine and a small +quantity of walnut pickle. + +=Pommes de Terre, Maître d'Hôtel.=--Cut up carefully selected, +underboiled and cold potatoes in rather thick slices. Dredge half a +tablespoonful of flour in a saucepan with a lump of butter and when +smooth add gradually a cupful of broth, stirring till it boils. Place in +the potatoes along with a tablespoonful of chopped parsley and pepper +and salt. Stew for three or four minutes, remove the pan to the side of +the fire and add quickly the yolk of an egg previously well beaten with +a teaspoonful of cold water and a little lemon juice. When the egg has +become thickened, turn the potatoes with their sauce on a flat dish and +serve. + +=Salade de Laitue.=--Select fine lettuces, remove the coarse outer +leaves, wash and wipe, place in a salad bowl and sprinkle over a +tablespoonful of chopped chives, half a teaspoonful each of chopped +chervil and tarragon. Season with a pinch of salt, half a teaspoonful of +pepper, two tablespoonfuls of vinegar and a tablespoonful and a half of +oil. Mix thoroughly and serve. + +=Feuillantines.=--Prepare some puff paste; roll out to about a third of +an inch thick and cut into strips an inch wide and two inches long. +Spread a baking dish thick with butter, arrange the pieces of paste on +it, placing them upon their sides and leaving a small space between +them. Put them in the oven and when they are firm and their sides have +spread, glaze them with white of egg and dust with powdered sugar. As +the feuillantines are cooked set them on paper and drain off any extra +grease. Now mask them separately with small quantities of different +colored jams. Arrange on fancy edged dish-paper or a folded napkin on a +dish and serve. + + + + +XIX + + +MENU + + Potage Crème d'Orge + Boeuf à la Mode + Pommes de Terre, Sautées + Salade de Romaine + Soufflé au Chocolat + + +=Potage Crème d'Orge.=--Mix in a saucepan a teacupful of barley, an +onion, a small piece of cinnamon, half a blade of mace and three pints +of water in which potatoes have been boiled. When the mixture boils +remove from the center of the fire and allow to simmer slowly for three +hours or more. Pass through a fine sieve and return to saucepan. Mix in +two tablespoonfuls of butter and half a pint of boiling milk, season +with pepper and salt. Beat an egg yolk in a teacupful of milk, mix in +the soup but do not allow to boil after egg is added. Serve with +croutons. + +=Boeuf à la Mode.=--Take the under part of a round of beef, place it in a +deep earthen dish and pour over it spiced vinegar. Let the meat remain +in this for several hours, then dress it with strips of salt pork, a +third of an inch square, inserted in incisions made a few inches apart. +Stuff larger incisions with breadcrumbs highly seasoned with salt, +pepper, onions, thyme and marjoram. Bind the beef into a shape to retain +the dressing and dredge with flour. Then cut up two onions, half a +carrot and half a turnip and fry in fat drippings till brown and place +in a stewpan. Brown the meat all over with the same fat, place on a +trivet in the pan, half cover with boiling water, add a small quantity +of mixed herbs tied in a bag, cover and simmer for about four hours, or +till done. Take out carefully, remove strings and cloth, and place on a +large dish. Skim off the fat from the gravy, add more seasoning, thicken +with wetted flour worked smooth, boil for eight or ten minutes and +strain over the meat. Decorate with small onions and potato balls. + +=Pommes de Terre, Sautées.=--Boil potatoes until almost done, cut into +quarters or slices of medium thickness. Melt butter or clarified +drippings in a frying pan, put in the potatoes sprinkled with salt and +pepper and finely chopped parsley and toss over the fire till they are a +fine golden brown color. Serve with chopped parsley. + +=Salade de Romaine.=--Put crisp leaves of romaine in a salad bowl rubbed +lightly with a shallot or new onion. Make the following dressing. Take +one hard-boiled egg and mash it as finely as possible with a fork, add a +little paprika, a pinch of salt, half a teaspoonful of French mustard, a +teaspoonful of hashed chives, the same of hashed tarragon, two +tablespoonfuls of oil and three of vinegar. Add this to the romaine, +toss well and serve. + +=Soufflé au Chocolat.=--Mix a small tablespoonful of starch with a gill +of milk and when quite smooth add two ounces of powdered sugar and two +ounces of butter. Put the mixture into a saucepan and stir over the fire +till it boils. When cold stir in an ounce of grated chocolate and the +yolks of two eggs. Beat well together till perfectly smooth, then mix in +the whites of the eggs. Pour into a buttered souffle dish and bake for +forty minutes. + + + + +XX + + +MENU + + Potage Gourmet + Eglefin à la Maître d'Hôtel + Pommes de Terre, Casserole + Salade de Tomates et de Laitue + Canards Sauvages, Sauce Orange + Soufflé au Citron + + +=Potage Gourmet.=--Pour into a saucepan about a quart of the water in +which potatoes have been boiled, add a small amount of cold chicken cut +in small dice, two tablespoonfuls of boiled rice, two tablespoonfuls of +cooked green peas and one truffle cut into dice, also pepper and salt, +along with one or two whole cloves. Bring to a boil, allow to simmer for +fifteen minutes, and serve. + +=Eglefin à la Maître d'Hôtel.=--Cut a cleaned haddock open at the back +on each side of the bone, dust with pepper and salt, dip in flour, +place on a gridiron over a clear fire and cook for about twenty minutes, +turning carefully from time to time. Remove from the fire, place two +ounces of butter on the back of the fish, place it in the oven to melt +the butter, then, put the fish on a hot platter and sprinkle with mince +parsley and lemon juice, the latter heated. + +=Pommes de Terre, Casserole.=--Boil a pound or two of potatoes, drain +and mash and make into a stiff paste by adding butter and milk together +with a little salt. Form into a casserole, put on a dish, make an +opening in the top, brown in the oven and serve. + +=Salade de Tomates et Laitue.=--Split the white leaves of lettuce into +quarters and place in a bowl. Cut tomatoes into thin slices and place +over the lettuce. Season with a sauce made of one part of vinegar, two +of oil, a little salt and pepper. Pour the sauce over just before +serving. + +=Canards Sauvages, Sauce Orange.=--Roast two wild ducks over a brisk +fire, having them underdone, more or less, according to taste. Baste +all the time they are cooking with butter and the juice of lemon and +serve with the following sauce. Shred finely the rind of two oranges and +parboil in a little water. Melt an ounce of butter and stir into it a +dessertspoonful of flour moistened with a little water. Stir well over +the fire and then add the juice of the two oranges, some very clear +gravy, flavor with pepper and salt and cayenne, then add the parboiled +orange rind. Let the sauce boil and keep hot till wanted. + +=Soufflé au Citron.=--Put three egg yolks and three ounces of powdered +sugar into a basin with the grated rind of a lemon and a half and stir +till quite thick. Add slowly a tablespoonful of lemon juice and then, +quickly, the well beaten whites of the three eggs. Pour into a pie dish +and bake in a medium oven for twenty minutes. When the surface is a +golden brown it is done. Serve immediately. + + + + +XXI + + +MENU + + Filets de Carrelets, Italienne + Pommes de Terre, Loulou + Cailles Rôtis + Salade des Tomates et d'Artichauts + Vol-au-Vent, Chantilly + + +=Filets de Carrelets, Italienne.=--Take the fillets of two firm +flounders, trim and flour each piece lightly. Dip in egg beaten with +pepper and salt, cover on both sides with stale breadcrumbs and fry in +boiling olive oil. When the fillets are a golden brown place on a sieve +in front of the fire with a soft paper beneath them that they may drain. +Serve with fried parsley and quarters of lemon. + +=Pommes de Terre, Loulou.=--Chop raw potatoes fine and place them in a +saucepan with butter and a seasoning of pepper, salt, paprika and a +trace of nutmeg. Cover and cook very slowly, agitating them constantly. +When they become soft, beat well and arrange a layer on a vegetable +dish, sprinkle with Parmesan cheese, put on another layer of potatoes, +then more cheese, and so on, having the top layer of cheese. Pour over +all melted butter and bake about twenty minutes in a slow oven. + +=Cailles Rôtis.=--Tie a thin slice of bacon over the breast of each +quail, roast them at a clear fire for fifteen minutes, basting +frequently. Lay them on crisp buttered toast, sprinkle with minced +parsley, salt and paprika, and serve with a rich wine jelly on a +separate dish. + +=Salade des Tomates et d'Artichauts.=--Cut the under part of boiled +artichokes into slices and take the same number of slices of tomato. Dip +both into a dressing made of olive oil, vinegar, tarragon, chervil, salt +and pepper, with a little mustard and arrange in a salad bowl. Pour over +the remainder of the dressing and serve. + +=Vol-au-Vent, Chantilly.=--Roll a pound of puff paste to about an eighth +of an inch in thickness and cut out about thirty rounds with a fluted +cutter, about two and a half inches in diameter. Then cut out the center +of these with a cutter about an inch across. Roll out the paste taken +from the centers and cut out more rings in the same way. Brush the rings +over with egg, place one on top of another, two by two, press together +so that they will stick, place on a baking sheet, brush over with egg +and bake in a brisk oven. When almost done sprinkle with sugar and allow +to remain in the oven till they are glazed and fully done. Remove and +place on a warmed platter and fill with any sort of cream desired, or +jam or tart marmalade. + + + + +XXII + + +MENU + + Potage Julienne + Homard Bordelaise + Canard à la Reine + Salade à la Russe + Café Bavaroise + + +=Potage Julienne.=--Cut carrots, onions, leeks and turnips into thin +slices or strips of equal size with a head of celery. Put all into two +ounces of butter melted in a saucepan and toss over a slow fire for a +few minutes. If desired other vegetables in season such as cauliflower, +peas or asparagus may be added. Pour clear chicken broth over the +vegetables, put in some pieces of cold chicken, allow to come to a boil, +then simmer till the vegetables are tender and pour the whole into the +tureen with sippets of toast. + +=Homard Bordelaise.=--Cut a small carrot and an onion into fine pieces +and boil for five minutes in a wineglassful of red wine. Now add the +meat from two lobsters, cut in small pieces, say, about a pound and a +half. Season with a very little pepper, salt, and a trace of nutmeg, +adding, just before the lobster is cooked, about half a pint of velouté +sauce. Stew well together and serve at once. + +=Canard à la Reine.=--Cut off one wing of a duck and half the breast +from the same side, remove the skin, take out the bone and fill the +place with quenelle forcemeat. Lard the breast and put it into a +braising pan over slices of leeks, carrots and onions and a little +thyme, chervil, bayleaves and lemon peel. Add sufficient stock to +prevent burning, set the pan on the fire and braise the duck, then glaze +it. Serve with a purée of beans for garnish. + +=Salade à la Russe.=--Cut cold chicken and salmon into thin slices, +arrange in a salad dish and mix with finely cut cooked asparagus heads, +carrots and cauliflower, a few capers and a little caviare. The dressing +is made with three parts of oil and one of vinegar, a little mustard and +cayenne pepper and a tablespoonful of minced onion. Pour over the salad +and stand on the ice till served. + +=Café Bavaroise.=--Grind half a pound of green coffee, roast in a sugar +boiler without burning it or even browning and soak a quart of milk with +it for about an hour. Now stir into a cupful of flour a teaspoonful of +castor sugar into which has been dropped a little vanilla extract, and a +little salt. Stir this all in with the strained coffee-flavored milk, +bring to a boil, remove from the fire and stir in the yolks, then the +whites of three eggs, all beaten firm. Fill paper cases with the +mixture, bake, sprinkle castor sugar over the tops and serve at once. + + + + +XXIII + + +MENU + + Huitres à l'Américaine + Boeuf à l'Aurore + Pommes de Terre, Lyonnaise + Salade Française + Crème à la Russe + + +=Huitres à l'Américaine.=--Place in a sauce bowl a heaped teaspoonful of +salt, three-quarters of a teaspoonful of white pepper, a medium sized +onion, chopped, and a teaspoonful of minced parsley. Mix lightly +together along with a teaspoonful of olive oil, six drops of tobasco +sauce, a little Worcestershire sauce and a gill of vinegar. Put a +teaspoonful of this mixture on each raw oyster just before taking to the +table. + +=Boeuf à l'Aurore.=--Season two steaks of about three-quarters of a pound +each (any ordinary cut will do) with salt and pepper, baste on either +side with a little oil and broil over a brisk fire for six minutes. +Place on a hot dish and serve with the following sauce poured over: Mix +in a saucepan a small glass of mushroom liquor with half a pint of +bechamel sauce, half an ounce of butter and two or three tablespoonfuls +of tomato sauce. Place on the fire, stir for ten minutes and just before +removing add whole mushrooms cut in squares. + +=Salade Française.=--Chop fine a bunch of parsley, two small onions and +six anchovies. Lay them in a bowl and mix with salt and mustard to +taste, two tablespoonfuls of salad oil and a gill of vinegar. Stir all +well together and then add, one at a time, some very thin strips of cold +roasted or boiled meat, not more than three or four inches long. Shake +the slices well in the dressing. Cover the bowl closely and allow to +stand for at least three hours. Serve garnished with parsley. + +=Pommes de Terre, Lyonnaise.=--Cut into round slices eight boiled +potatoes, lay them in a frying pan with an ounce and a half of butter +and the slices of a partly cooked onion. Season with salt and pepper and +cook till the potatoes become well browned, tossing all the while. Serve +with chopped parsley sprinkled over. + +=Crème à la Russe.=--Put into a saucepan a pint of milk, half a pound of +lump sugar, the grated rind of two lemons and an ounce of gelatine, +previously soaked in water. Cook till the sugar dissolves over a slow +fire, then allow the mixture to cool somewhat before stirring in the +yolks of two eggs, unbeaten. Place on the fire to curdle. Strain, and +when cool add the juice of the two lemons and the whites of the eggs +beaten stiffly. Stir all well together and pour into a wet mould. Turn +out when well set. + + + + +XXIV + + +MENU + + Potage Napolitaine + Truites à la Monbarry + Croquettes de Pommes de Terre + Celeri-rave en Salade + Pouding aux Figues + + +=Potage Napolitaine.=--Boil in strong bouillon small forcemeat balls +made of any left-over game or meat. Then soak croutons in the same +bouillon. Add the forcemeat balls and serve. + +=Truites à la Monbarry.=--Prepare several trout and lay them in a pan +with a quarter pound of butter and some strong spices. Allow to heat +slowly in an open oven and when the butter is entirely melted, drop on +the trout two well beaten yolks of eggs. Grate cheese over this and +cover all with a quantity of fine breadcrumbs. Brown lightly in a hot +oven and serve. + +=Croquettes de Pommes de Terre.=--Boil and drain about two and a half +pounds of potatoes. Add a generous quantity of butter, yolks of two +eggs, salt and pepper and the white of the eggs beaten to a snow. Beat +the whole up briskly, shape the mixture into balls and fry in a pan. + +=Celeri-rave en Salade.=--Trim carefully a bunch of celery, leaving on +as much of the root as possible. Cut in half and boil in salted water +till tender. Then trim into even sticks and season it very piquantly +with French mustard, a few young onions, pepper, salt and finely chopped +parsley. Garnish with lettuce-leaves and slices of beet. + +=Pouding aux Figues.=--Mix in a large bowl a cupful of breadcrumbs, half +a cup of farina, a pinch of salt, a cup of suet, cut fine, a cup of +powdered sugar, a minced carrot and a cup and a half of chopped figs. +Grease a baking mould, line it with whole figs, and empty the mixture +into it. Cook for four hours, the pan standing in water. Serve hot with +a rum sauce. + + + + +LET US EAT FISH + +A FAMOUS FRENCH LUNCHEON À L'AMÉRICAINE + + +Only in the Latin countries has fish as an edible ever been fully +appreciated and, as is the case with most other things gastronomic, it +is in France that the food possibilities of the denizens of the water +have been brought nearest perfection. + +Over here we have always seemed to regard fish as useful chiefly for +stocking aquariums or for furnishing sport for the vacationist, along +with golf, tennis and bowling. True, we have become rather well +acquainted with certain sea foods, the oysters, Blue Points and Cape +Cods; we have a nodding acquaintance with some of the clam clan, +especially the Rhode Island branch, and the Little Necks, the blue +bloods of the family. And, of course, we are familiar with the +crustaceans, the lobsters and the crabs. + +And we know, too, certain succulent sea delicacies that come to us from +Palm Beach shores and California and Oregon regions, tuna and halibut, +bluefish and salmon as it comes to us variously prepared for the table. +In short, we Americans are fairly friendly with a number of the +aristocrats of the water, but on analyzing the situation we come to +realize that as for knowing the "finny tribe" as a whole well enough to +get complete gastronomic joy out of the situation, it remains that it is +only the French people who are so blessed. + +Time and the hour and the high price of meat, however, render it +advisable, even absolutely necessary, that we work _all_ our resources +instead of only a part of them, to economize whenever and wherever we +can, and the waters in our midst and around us are surely one of the +most important resources not already worked to the limit. + +Therefore, let us eat fish--but first let us learn of the French about +fish, even as we have learned of them concerning other foods, or as we +have learned fashions, for, verily, the turning out of a proper fish +dish for the table has ever been regarded by the French as no less an +art than the creation of a beautiful frock in one of their ateliers. +Moreover, their ways with fish are so broadly inclusive that one may +make up an entire menu from one end to the other, with only a cup of +coffee needed as a final fillip to make a perfect meal--and all of fish. + +By way of furnishing inspiration to our own appetites, herewith is a +suggestion for a fish luncheon, a favorite menu of France, which its +wealth and fashion delighted to have set before it in those good old +days before the war. Substitutes are given for any fish not indigenous +to American waters; otherwise it is just as it would be served at one of +the Riviera restaurants, with the exception, of course, that on the +Riviera or at any of the noted marine restaurants, the visitor himself +was permitted to select the fish for each course from among the +different specimens swimming in the reserves, altogether unconscious of +impending fate. + +No French restauranteur worthy the name ever kept dead fish in stock, +for nothing deteriorates so quickly. There is rarely over here the +natural reserve that the Riviera takes as a matter of course, although +there is, in some restaurants, the tank of running water in which the +fish are kept in condition till required. + + + + +AN ALL FISH LUNCHEON + + +MENU + +=Hors d'OEuvres.= =Little Necks or Blue Points.= + + (At Monte Carlo one would be served Clovisses.) + +=Lobster with Sauce Piquante.= + + (A substitute for the French langouste, which is similar to a giant + lobster minus the two long nippers. Or there might be served abroad + for this course a little gelatinous fellow called supion, or + sea-hedgehog, or perhaps nonnots, smaller and more delicate than our + own whitefish.) + +=French Sardines Grilled, or Shad Planked.= + + (Shad is a most satisfactory substitute for the French + restauranteur's delight--loup de mer.) + +=Flounder, Sauce Meunière, or Shrimps.= + + (In Dieppe sole and certain crevettes are both specialties and are + served at this juncture, but little sole is being received here and + our own flounder answers requirements admirably. Shrimps, too, will + please an American palate fully as well as the crevettes.) + +=Bouillabaisse.= + + (This, for which we have no nearer synonym than fish stew, which is + a libel, is the pièce de résistance of the luncheon. It is probably + the most famous fish dish of France.) + +=Salade de Poisson with Aioli.= + + (Aioli is a Mediterranean mayonnaise and "the dressing," the French + say, "is the soul of the salad.") + +It will be noted that there is no dessert given with the above menu, but +the repast may be gracefully topped off with crackers and cheese and +café noir. Tea is never served with fish, as the tannin is said to +render fish particularly indigestible. + + +TO PREPARE THE LUNCHEON + +The French disdain the pepper, horseradish and tomato mixtures with +which we are wont to dress raw oysters, preferring to get the full +coppery taste peculiar to their home product, but the American oyster, +even these artists of the culinary department agree, requires a dressing +to bring out the flavor. As for the clovisse, which is, by the way, +first cousin to our clam, it is eaten from the shell, each clovisse +being opened immediately before being disposed of. + +Lobster as here served to take the place of the French langouste, tastes +much like deviled lobster. The sauce piquante is made as follows: Into a +saucepan put a tablespoonful of finely chopped onion with a little salt, +grated nutmeg, black pepper and an ounce of butter. When this melts and +blends add a little chopped red pepper along with three tablespoonfuls +of vinegar and a teaspoonful of mustard. Stir together well, then mix in +half an ounce of flour and half a pint of fish stock. Simmer for half an +hour, skimming occasionally and, finally add a chopped pickled gherkin. + +=Sauce Meunière=, served with the sole, or, in this case with the +flounder, is made by adding a few shrimps and mussels, minced, to a pint +of white wine in a saucepan, along with a cupful of minced mushrooms, a +teaspoonful of butter, salt and pepper and three or four cloves. Simmer +for twenty minutes and pour over the fish just before serving. + +=Salade de Poisson, Aioli=, is made by taking any cold fish, say salmon, +with this menu. It is flaked and marinaded in oil and vinegar seasoned +well with pepper and salt. Allow to remain for an hour or so, then +remove and arrange compactly in a salad bowl. The aioli, the +Mediterranean delicacy with which it is served, is made by whipping two +eggs, four teaspoonfuls of olive oil, a half teaspoonful of French +mustard and a half cupful of cream together till stiff, in a bowl rubbed +with garlic. Heap this on the center of the fish. + +As for the =Bouillabaisse=, it is like our own Welsh Rabbit in so far as +hardly any two persons make it alike. Here are two recipes which +gastronomic authorities have accorded the meed of highest praise: + +No. 1.--Cut into pieces and remove the bones from three pounds of fish; +say one pound each of cod, halibut and bluefish, though any fish of like +nature will do. To these add the cooked meat of one lobster or two +crabs, and six shrimps and put all into a casserole in half a pint or +more of olive oil to cook, adding one lemon, sliced, two tomatoes, one +onion, one sliced carrot, a bunch of saffron, a bunch of parsley, a +bayleaf and a clove of garlic--or have the casserole rubbed with the +garlic. Cook for ten minutes, stirring frequently, then add one cup of +soup stock and a glass of wine or cider. Cook for fifteen minutes +longer, remove to a hot bowl, line the casserole with slices of toast, +and pour back the bouillabaisse. Serve at once. + +No. 2.--Place the pieces of fish to any desired amount in a large +saucepan, add two or three sliced onions, one or two sliced carrots, +three shallots, two cloves of garlic, a bunch of thyme and parsley, +three or four cloves, two bayleaves, half a teaspoonful of capsicum, a +wine-glass of olive oil and salt and pepper to taste. Pour over the +above mixture two quarts of water and boil gently for half an hour, the +pan covered. Drain and lay on a hot dish. Then mix a teaspoonful of +saffron in the liquid, pass through a strainer into a soup tureen. Serve +the soup with the fish and a plate of croutons of fried bread or sippets +of toast. + + + + +FISH À LA MARSEILLES + + +The French have another fish dish which, like bouillabaisse, is +practically a meal in itself and which in these days should be better +known to the American table. It is a specialty in the vicinity of +Marseilles and made there, of course, with fish peculiar to the home +waters, but M. Auguste Gay, Chef of the Yale Club, New York, who, +incidentally, has probably given more attention to the adaptation of +French cookery to American requirements than any other chef, is +authority for the statement that the following recipe produces an almost +perfect substitute for the French dish: + +Chop into fine bits a small sweet Chile pepper and toss it about in a +saucepan over the fire with a third of a cupful of olive oil or butter. +When hot add a cupful of okra and the same amount of stewed fresh or +canned tomatoes. Cook fifteen minutes and add a full cupful of cooked +fresh fish--cod, haddock, etc., and a half cupful of flaked salt fish, +mackerel, for instance. Cover and cook for twenty minutes longer and +serve with water crackers. + + + + +GENERAL CONSIDERATIONS + + +One secret of the French cook's superiority to the American in preparing +fish is that the former has almost a congenital knowledge of his +subject. To him all fish is not just fish. He differentiates sharply as +to species, tempering his treatment to varied requirements. + +Roughly, there are two classes of fish: those which have dark flesh or +flesh with a pinkish tone which is streaked with fat, and those which +have white, firm flesh and are the more digestible. Best known in the +first class are shad, butterfish, bluefish, salmon, mackerel and +sturgeon, and in the second, cod, halibut, flounder, trout, rock and sea +bass, pompano, weakfish and perch. + +One matter-of-course rule is that no fish of whatever kind shall be +allowed to enter the kitchen unless it is perfectly fresh. To be sure +of this see that the gills are bright and shining and the flesh firm, +not readily separating from the bones. That settled, you have an almost +endless choice of ways of cooking. + +Fish may be boiled, broiled, fried, baked, planked, creamed, steamed, +cooked en casserole, jellied or pickled, but of all these ways none +produces quite the universally satisfactory results with a sizable fish +that planking does, and planking is not more difficult or expensive than +other methods. + +All that is required in the way of accoutrements is a half-inch-thick +hardwood board which is heated in advance in the oven when planked fish +is to figure on the menu. Then having thoroughly cleaned the fish, +removed its head and tail, split it up the back half through the bone so +that it will open out flat, brush it with butter and season with pepper +and salt, place it skin-side down on the board. + +Put it in the oven and when it is done, which can be easily ascertained +by lifting a bit of the flesh, you, being American, may garnish the +board with mashed and seasoned potatoes, set the board back in the oven +till the potatoes are browned and serve. The French, on taking the +cooked fish from the oven, merely brush it with a little oil or melted +butter, squeeze some lemon juice over, sprinkle a few bits of parsley +about, and send the fish thus to the table. + +Small fish, such as perch, smelts, etc., are best fried in deep fat or +its substitute, first being dipped in egg and rolled in fine cracker or +breadcrumbs, then served with a Sauce Mousseline, mashed potatoes or +boiled new ones, and a crisp salad. + +This Sauce Mousseline is made by beating two eggs in a saucepan, adding +a cupful of top milk, butter the size of a walnut and pepper and salt, +then stirring over the fire till it begins to thicken. When of the +proper consistency, add a tablespoonful of lemon juice and it is ready +for the table. + +A tart sauce for boiled fish that is much favored in the south of France +but which, if it has ever crossed the water, has kept its arrival very +quiet, is quite simply made and will be much liked as a decided change. +To make it dissolve a tablespoonful of powdered mustard in a half cupful +of fish stock and add two tablespoonfuls of white wine vinegar by +preference, though other vinegar will do. Let this come to a boil, add +two or three slices of lemon and boil a few minutes longer. Take from +the fire and add two eggs that have been beaten with a teaspoonful of +water. Season with salt and pepper and heat again but do not allow to +boil. + + + + + [ Transcriber's Note: + + The following is a list of corrections made to the original. The first + line is the original line, the second the corrected one. + + vinegars, Worchestershire and many another flavoring designed to give a + vinegars, Worcestershire and many another flavoring designed to give a + + left of the morn ng cereal except to the advantage of some later made + left of the morning cereal except to the advantage of some later made + + over a moderate fire and add to it chopped parsely and chives, or + over a moderate fire and add to it chopped parsley and chives, or + + a boil and mix in two or three tablespoonsfuls of grated Parmesan cheese. + a boil and mix in two or three tablespoonfuls of grated Parmesan cheese. + + fish, cover in the kettle with cold water and, plenty of salt. Bring + fish, cover in the kettle with cold water and plenty of salt. Bring + + and moisten with hot water, then add a few drops of vinegar a dash of + and moisten with hot water, then add a few drops of vinegar, a dash of + + on each side of the bone, duct with pepper and salt, dip in flour, + on each side of the bone, dust with pepper and salt, dip in flour, + + parsely, salt and paprika, and serve with a rich wine jelly on a + parsley, salt and paprika, and serve with a rich wine jelly on a + + please an American palate fully as well as the crevettes. + please an American palate fully as well as the crevettes.) + + say, "is the soul of the salad." + say, "is the soul of the salad.") + + ] + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Twenty-four Little French Dinners and +How to Cook and Serve Them, by Cora Moore + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 24 LITTLE FRENCH DINNERS *** + +***** This file should be named 29970-8.txt or 29970-8.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/2/9/9/7/29970/ + +Produced by Jana Srna and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was +produced from images generously made available by The +Internet Archive/American Libraries.) + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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You may copy it, give it away or +re-use it under the terms of the Project Gutenberg License included +with this eBook or online at www.gutenberg.org + + +Title: Twenty-four Little French Dinners and How to Cook and Serve Them + +Author: Cora Moore + +Release Date: September 12, 2009 [EBook #29970] + +Language: English + +Character set encoding: ISO-8859-1 + +*** START OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 24 LITTLE FRENCH DINNERS *** + + + + +Produced by Jana Srna and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was +produced from images generously made available by The +Internet Archive/American Libraries.) + + + + + + +</pre> + + +<div id="tnote"> +<p class="center"><b>Transcriber's Note:</b></p> +<p>Every effort has been made to replicate this text as faithfully as +possible, including inconsistencies in spelling and hyphenation; +changes (corrections of spelling and punctuation) made to the +original text are marked <ins title="transcriber's note">like this</ins>. +The original text appears when hovering the cursor over the marked text.</p> +</div> + +<h1 style="line-height: 1.5em;"><span class="smcap">Twenty-four Little</span><br/> +FRENCH DINNERS<br/> +<small style="font-size: 60%;">AND</small><br/> +<i>How to Cook and Serve Them</i></h1> + +<p class="center" style="font-size: 140%; line-height: 1.5em;"><small>BY</small><br/> +CORA MOORE</p> + +<div class="figcenter" style="width: 136px;"> +<img src="images/emblem.png" alt="" width="136" height="193"/> +</div> + +<p class="center smcap" style="line-height: 1.75em;">NEW YORK<br/> +<big>E. P. DUTTON & COMPANY</big><br/> +681 Fifth Avenue</p> + + +<p class="center smcap page-break" style="margin-top: 10em;">Copyright 1919, by<br/> +E. P. DUTTON & COMPANY</p> + +<p class="center"><i>All Rights Reserved</i></p> + +<p class="center" style="margin-top: 10em;"><i>Printed in the United States of America</i></p> + + +<div class="new-h2"> </div> +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_v">v</a></span></div> +<h2>PREFACE</h2> + + +<p>The Little Dinners of Paris are world-famous. +No one can have sojourned +in the fascinating capital in its normal +days without having come under their +spell. To Parisien and visitor alike +they are accounted among the uniquely +characteristic features of the city's +routine life.</p> + +<p>Much of the interest that attaches to +them is, of course, due to local atmosphere, +to the associations that surround +the quaint restaurants, half hidden in +unexpected nooks and by-ways, to the +fact that old Jacques “waits” in his +shirtsleeves or that Grosse Marie serves +you with a smile as expansive as her +own proportions, or that it is Justin or +François or “Old Monsoor,” with his +eternal grouch, who glides about the +zinc counter.</p> + +<p>But there is also magic in the arrangement +of the menus, in the combinations +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_vi">vi</a></span>of food, in the very names of the confections +and in the little Gallic touches +that, simple though they are, transform +commonplace dishes into gastronomic +delights.</p> + +<p>There is inspiration in the art that +enters into the production of a French +dinner, in the perfect balance of every +item from hors d'œuvre to café noir, +in the ways with seasoning that work +miracles with left-overs and preserve +the daily routine of three meals a day +from the deadly monotony of the +American régime, in the garnishings +that glorify the most insignificant concoctions +into objects of appetising +beauty and in the sauces that elevate +indifferent dishes into the realm of +creations and enable a French cook to +turn out a dinner fit for capricious +young gods from what an American +cook wastes in preparing one.</p> + +<p>The very economy of the French is +an art, and there is art in their economy. +It is true that their dishes, as we have +known them in this country, are expensive, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_vii">vii–viii</a></span>even extravagant, but that is because +they have been for the most part +the creations of high-priced chefs. They +who have made eating an avocation +know that it is not necessary to dine +expensively in order to dine well.</p> + +<p class="right">C. M.</p> + +<p><small>New York, May, 1919.</small></p> + + + +<div class="new-h2"> </div> +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_ix">ix–x</a></span></div> +<h2>CONTENTS</h2> + +<table id="toc" summary="Contents"> +<tr> + <td colspan="2" class="page" style="font-size: 0.8em; border-bottom: none;">PAGE</td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="smcap">Preface</td> + <td class="page"><a href="#Page_v">v</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="smcap">The Bugbear of American Cookery—Monotony</td> + <td class="page"><a href="#Page_1">1</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="smcap">Flavor—Handmaid of Variety</td> + <td class="page"><a href="#Page_9">9</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="smcap">True Trails toward Economy</td> + <td class="page"><a href="#Page_15">15</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="smcap">The Appeal to the Eye</td> + <td class="page"><a href="#Page_21">21</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="smcap">Sauces, Simple and Otherwise</td> + <td class="page"><a href="#Page_25">25</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td><span class="smcap">Twenty-four Little French Dinners</span><br/> + (With Directions for Preparing)</td> + <td class="page"><a href="#Page_33">33</a></td> +</tr> +<tr> + <td class="smcap">Let Us Eat Fish!</td> + <td class="page"><a href="#Page_109">109</a></td> +</tr> +</table> + + + + +<div class="new-h2"> </div> +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_xi">xi–xii</a></span></div> +<p class="center page-break" style="font-size: x-large; margin-top: 0; line-height: 1.5em;"><span class="smcap">Twenty-four Little</span><br/> +FRENCH DINNERS<br/> +<small style="font-size: 60%;">AND</small><br/> +<i>How to Cook and Serve Them</i></p> + + +<div class="new-h2"> </div> +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_1">1</a></span></div> +<h2>THE BUGBEAR OF AMERICAN +COOKERY—MONOTONY</h2> + + +<p>It is as strange as it is true that with +the supplies that have lately proved +sufficient to feed a world to draw upon +the chief trouble with American cookery +is its monotony. The American cook +has a wider variety of foods at his command +than any other in the world, yet +in the average home how rarely is it +that the palate is surprised with a flavor +that didn't have its turn on the corresponding +day last week or tickled +with a sauce that is in itself an inspiration +and a delight, not a mere “gravy,” +liable to harden into lumps of grease +when it cools.</p> + +<p>Most of this is simply the result of +blindly following tradition. Daughter +has accepted mother's precepts, regarding +them even as the law of the Medes +and the Persians, “which altereth not,” +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_2">2</a></span>and if it were not that increased prices +and, lately, at least, “food regulations,” +have veritably compelled her toward a +more wholesome simplicity, the United +States would probably be what it was +called half a generation ago, “a nation +of dyspeptics.” And we were a nation +of dyspeptics because the great American +mother of the latter end of the +Nineteenth Century, in spite of all her +unequaled qualities in every other +direction, and in spite of all the encomiums +she received in resounding prose +or ecstatic verse for her prowess in the +kitchen, was from the points of view of +health, economy and wisdom the worst +cook in the world.</p> + +<p>With prices as they are the American +housewife cannot afford to use butter +and eggs and flour with the prodigality +that was a habit with her mother, but so +limited is the average woman's knowledge +of cookery that these restrictions +merely mean more monotony than ever. +It is partly to demonstrate that this +state of things is unnecessary and that +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_3">3</a></span>true food economy is not at all synonymous +with “going without” that +this book has been compiled.</p> + +<p>It is upon variety that the French +cook confidently relies to make each dish +of each meal not just something to eat +because her family must have food, not +merely a sop to the Cerberus-gnawings +of hunger, but a delight to the eye, to +the palate, to the stomach—truly a +consummation devoutly to be wished +for the American home table, and just +as possible to attain as it is possible to +procure from the grocer or the nearest +pharmacist the ingredients by which +these wonders are wrought.</p> + +<p>But the average American woman +doesn't look beyond her own kitchen +and her own traditional row of spice +boxes for her flavorings. She has her +“kitchen set,” which ordinarily comprises +a row of little receptacles labeled +“pepper,” “salt,” “cloves,” “allspice,” +“ginger,” “cinnamon,” “nutmeg,” and +possibly one or two other spices or condiments—rarely +more. With these and +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_4">4</a></span>a bottle each of lemon extract and +vanilla, she is satisfied that she is fully +equipped as far as flavoring possibilities +are concerned.</p> + +<p>If she has laid in a box of sage and one +of mixed dressing with, perhaps, some +paprika and thyme, she views her foresightedness +with much complacency. +She is supplied with savories.</p> + +<p>Then she goes right on sighing, “Oh, +for a new meat, instead of the same old +round of mutton, pork, beef and fish; +fish, beef, mutton and pork,” disclaiming +utterly any responsibility for the +monotony that is undermining the +family health and temper and, quite +possibly, its morals.</p> + +<p>That is where the American housewife +makes her primary and most important +mistake. The French, on the +other hand, know that there are, literally, +hundreds of ways to vary every +dish, however ordinary it may be in its +primary state. That is their secret of +success: unfailing variety coupled with +economy.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_5">5</a></span> +However, this is not to claim that the +American palate would take kindly to +all the French cooks' little delicacies, +or that it could be cultivated to that +degree that makes a Frenchman regard +a perfectly balanced meal even as an +inspired poem.</p> + +<p>Probably Americans, as a class, could +never be induced to eat some of the +little birds—the <i>mauviettes</i>, the <i>alouettes</i>, +the sparrows baked in a pie, that so +delight the Frenchman. Also, it is a +question whether snails, even if it were +possible to obtain the superior Burgundian, +fat and juicy and cooked even +as our own Oscar used to prepare them +for certain Waldorf guests, would ever +appeal to the American taste, as even +the common hedgerow sort of snail +does to the average Frenchman.</p> + +<p>It is not that the French dinners of +Monte Carlo are necessarily so superior +to American shore dinners, or that the +little dinners of Paris are so infinitely +to be preferred to those, say, of certain +places in New Orleans, or that the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_6">6</a></span>coppery-tasting oysters of Havre are +to be compared with those of our own +Baltimore. There is no more to be +said, probably, for the woodcock patés +of old Montreuil, or the <i>rillettes</i> of Tours, +or the little pots of custard one gets at +the foreign Montpelier, or the <i>vol-au-vent</i>, +which is the pride and boast of +the cities of Provence, than there is for +grandmother's cookies such as have +put Camden, Maine, on the map, or +Lady Baltimore cakes, or the chicken +pies one goes to northern New Hampshire +to find in their glory, or the turkeys +that, as much as the Green Mountains, +make Vermont's fame.</p> + +<p>Still, there is no question but that +the American palate would benefit much +by being cultivated, not only in the +interests of economy, but also with a +view to the increase of gastronomic +pleasure, for a taste attuned to many +variations is as an ear sensitive to the +nuances of sweet sounds or an eye +trained to perceive delicate tones and +tints. It is really a matter for regret +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_7">7–8</a></span>that we, as a people, have not been as +willing to learn from the French the +art of cooking and eating as we have +been to acquire from them knowledge +of the art of dress. Until we widen our +horizon sufficiently to do this, we have +not even begun to develop all our food +resources or to understand the first +principles of true food economy—which +is not at all synonymous with “going +without.”</p> + + + +<div class="new-h2"> </div> +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_9">9</a></span></div> +<h2>FLAVOR, HANDMAID OF VARIETY</h2> + + +<p>It is because he has a multitude of +seasonings at his command and knows +how to use them that the French cook +is enabled not only to send to the table +an infinite variety of dishes, but, at +the same time, to practice economies +that were otherwise impossible. The +American buys an expensive cut of +meat and, as is right in such a case, +treats it as plainly and simply as possible. +The Frenchman buys meat of a +much lower quality, but so embellishes +it that when it comes to the table it is +superior, or, at least, equal to that which +costs much more.</p> + +<p>It may be objected that this is no +real economy, because by the time the +French cook has sauced and spiced his +cheap cut in order to make it palatable, +the cost is as great, if not greater than +it would have been had he paid more +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_10">10</a></span>for his meat in the first place. This +would be true enough according to the +average American's method of procedure. +But it is to be remembered that +the French cook has already in his +kitchen the cooking vinegars, the spices, +the dried herbs, the extracts, that in +very small amounts—a dash or a few +leaves—are used at a time; also, that +in a great number of cases, gravies and +sauces are made from the by-products +of the main dishes—those by-products +that in the American kitchen usually +go down the sink-drain or into the garbage +pail.</p> + +<p>Take a peep into the typical French +cupboard. There you will find from +twenty-five to thirty liquid seasonings +such as anchovy extract, tobasco sauce, +meat extracts, mushroom catsup, tomato +paste, chutney, various vinegars, +<ins title="Worchestershire">Worcestershire</ins> and many another flavoring +designed to give a tang and a +zest even to the most unpromising dish, +if used aright. There you will find, +too, fifty or more dry seasonings, including +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_11">11</a></span>anise, basil, saffron, savoury, clove +or garlic, cassia buds, bay leaf, ginger +root, pepper-corns, marjoram, mint, +thyme, capers and so on.</p> + +<p>Herein lie the “secrets” of French +cookery which are, in truth, not secrets +at all, but merely the application of +common sense to the cuisine. The +French have never allowed their taste +to be restricted by prejudice, so they +hail a new flavor with delight rather +than registering an instinctive dislike +because it is not familiar. With a +little applied education, Americans can +bring the charm of the French table +to their own homes rather than when +they are, as they say, tired of the +same old round of “eats,” seeking out +a nondescript table d'hôte restaurant +and eagerly consuming what is set +before them, grateful for a change.</p> + +<p>But don't harden your heart against +French cookery merely because you +have sampled it, as you fondly think, +at one or another of the “red-inkeries” +of New York or any other city. For +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_12">12</a></span>the most part the “French” restaurants +of the land are in reality not French +at all, but Italian for the most part, +and whatever Gallic flavor the remainder +ever possessed has well-nigh vanished. +There may be exceptions but, +if there are, their patrons carefully +guard the secret.</p> + +<p>But to return to our subject: It is +the French cook's knowledge of the +subtleties, the nuances of seasoning +that stands him in good stead. The +American woman who has essayed to +use some spice or savory unfamiliar to +her and has turned out a dish which her +family has declared “tasted like medicine” +is, naturally enough, discouraged +from wandering after that particular +strange god again. The truth is that +she has overdone the seasoning. She +doesn't want to be parsimonious, which +is just what the French cook is with +his flavors, only he, more scientifically, +calls it using good judgment. If he +uses garlic in a salad, it doesn't necessarily +follow that the entire household +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_13">13</a></span>must take on the atmosphere of an +Italian barber shop, for he uses garlic +or onion, not to give their flavor to a +dish, but to bring out the flavors of the +vegetables with which they are used.</p> + +<p>Vanilla and lemon have an almost +universal appeal to the palate, and +knowing this, the American cook, like +the generation before her, has always +seasoned her rice puddings, for instance, +with one or the other, just as her apple +sauce has invariably been flavored with +lemon or nutmeg, her bread pudding +with vanilla, and so all along her restricted +line.</p> + +<p>The French cook holds no brief +against vanilla, and sometimes he flavors +his rice pudding with it, but he so +guides matters that the very sight or +mention of rice pudding does not bring +the thought of vanilla to the mind, for +with him it may be flavored with +pistache or rose or have a geranium leaf +baked in it, giving a delightful, indescribable +flavor. An ordinary bread +pudding becomes veritably a queen of +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_14">14</a></span>puddings as, indeed, it is called, merely +by having a layer of jam through its +center and a simple icing spread over +the top. Ordinary pea soup exhibits +chameleon-like possibilities merely +through the addition of a little celery-root, +a dash of curry or the admixture +of a few spoonfuls of minced spinach, +and tomato soup has for most an appeal +that even this favorite of soups never +had before when just the right amount +of thyme is added while it simmers, +along with, perhaps a bayleaf.</p> + +<p>In the recipes appended to the little +dinners in this book a great many of the +French cooks' materials and methods +of procedure are set forth. But if the +ordinarily experimental American housewife +has the flavorings on hand, she +will doubtless herself contrive many an +alluring dish of her own. Variety is +said to be the spice of life. However +that may be, the spices and their +friends, the herbs, certainly make for +variety in that important function of +life, the dinner table.</p> + + + +<div class="new-h2"> </div> +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_15">15</a></span></div> +<h2>TRUE TRAILS TOWARD ECONOMY</h2> + + +<p>In the first place, no trail toward +economy in conducting the cuisine of a +household lies through the delicatessen +store or the “fancy” grocery. It is an +unflattering comment on the spirit of +thrift of American housewives that the +delicatessen store has settled down to +such a flourishing existence, particularly +in Eastern cities. Any woman +who possesses a stove and a kitchen +of her own should be ashamed to admit +the laziness that more than a semi-occasional +visit to these “delicate eating” +places predicates. There are few +things to be had in them that she +shouldn't be able to make better at +home and at a cost that is but a fraction +of what she has to pay for the usually +inferior, impersonal messes that come +ready-made.</p> + +<p>If the housewife has read some of the +very excellent instructions that were +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_16">16</a></span>printed to help her conduct her household +adequately amid the necessary +limitations of wartime, she already +knows that there is absolutely no excuse +for ever throwing away a crust or +crumb of bread. As for that, neither is +there any excuse for ever disposing of +what is left of the <ins title="morn ng">morning</ins> cereal except +to the advantage of some later made +dish, or of consigning meat scraps or +bits of fat or even bones to the garbage +pail. It is not only that, in the interests +of economy, she should use them; it +is rather that if she is a good cook she +will be very glad to have them to use.</p> + +<p>Stale bread and breadcrumbs are +the bases of a score of the most delicious +puddings on the French cook's card; +cooked cereal is one of the best thickenings +for soups and gravies, as well as +being far more wholesome than flour for +this purpose; meat scraps, trimmings +and bones should go into the stock pot. +When a soup made of these is served +as the introductory course at dinner +it will be found that the family will be +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_17">17</a></span>fully satisfied with much less meat, and +it is in the lessening dependence of +Americans on meat that will make for +the greatest item in economy.</p> + +<p>A French cook of parts would tear +his hair if he could see how fats and +drippings from meats are thrown away +in many an American kitchen. They +are poured into the sink till the drain +pipes clog and, to complete the little +serial of extravagance, the plumber has +to be called. The French cook knows +that this is the finest grease for frying in +the world and that its use would save +many a pound of butter. He strains +it all carefully and keeps the different +sorts in labelled jars or crocks. He +knows by experience what particular +fats give the best flavors to certain +things, and he knows that vegetables, +fish, eggs, pancakes and what not are +far better fried in these natural fats. +Who that ever ate an egg fried in bacon +drippings will ever want one cooked in +butter, even at a dollar a pound!</p> + +<p>One will not find the delicatessen +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_18">18</a></span>flourishing in France—one will not +find it at all—and the fancy grocery, +above mentioned, is another pitfall for +the American housewife. She likes the +sight of food done up in fancy containers, +in glass, perhaps, and buys them, +not realizing that she is paying a large +price for perfectly unnecessary and +totally unnourishing “pretties.” If she +is fearful of the handling some loose +food stuffs may be subjected to in the +stores, why does she not practice the +most practical economy, go to the +fountain-head of supplies in the city, +the large market, and buy in quantity, +so far as she can? A few ounces of +bacon, already sliced, and sealed in a +glass dish are, indeed, appetising even +in their raw state, while a side of bacon +is not, unless looked upon through the +eyes of imagination, yet the latter +method of purchasing this commodity +is two or three hundred per cent cheaper, +and when it arrives at the breakfast +table it will be found every bit as appealing +to a happy morning appetite.</p> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_19">19</a></span> +Any consideration of economy in the +cuisine must include the meat problem. +Meat is the most expensive item on the +menu and the true solution of the question +is not only to conserve all the uses +of it but to eat much less. That would +make not only for economy, but for +better health as well.</p> + +<p>It has been estimated that 186 pounds +of dressed meat is—or was prior to the +war—the yearly average of consumption +for every American; the Englishman +being a good second with his 120 +pounds, while the Frenchman remained +perfectly contented and healthy with +79 pounds, the Italian with 72 pounds, +and the Swiss, anything but a nation of +invalids, managed very well on 60 +pounds per person.</p> + +<p>This is no plea for vegetarianism, +though it may be said in passing for the +benefit of those who think that good red +blood and hardy muscle are to be obtained +only by absorbing the red blood +and muscle of the beasts of the field, +that there is as much, if not more, of +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_20">20</a></span>this building power in the beans, the +peas, the lentils that we regard too often +as mere secondary foods.</p> + +<p>Most of all the American should take +advantage of the great stores of fish +which are equally as nourishing as meat +and may easily be made as appetising +with simple sauces that French cookery +will teach us. Fish are cheap; at least, +many neglected kinds are; they are easy +to cook and they are one of the best +foods in the world.</p> + + + +<div class="new-h2"> </div> +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_21">21</a></span></div> +<h2>THE APPEAL TO THE EYE</h2> + + +<p>No one, least of all the French cook, +calculates to feast the eye at the expense +of the sense of taste, yet it is his +experience after long years that good +digestion is much more likely to wait +upon the appetite that has been stirred +to a preliminary enthusiasm by the +attractive appearance of a dish. So +they serve little fritters of vegetables, +dabs of jelly, slices of hard boiled eggs, +pickles, parsley, cress and nasturtiums +with meats, put sprigs of fresh green +in their gravies, decorate desserts with +nut-meats, flowers and fruits, and in so +doing add a bit to the gayety of the +table, satisfied that the trifling extra +expense, time and energy incurred is +more than compensated for in the +pleasure the results afford. A fair trial +of this pleasant idiosyncrasy of the +French is convincing that the appearance +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_22">22</a></span>of a dish has more bearing on the +relish of a meal than we over here have +fully realized.</p> + +<p>They are particular, however, to be +consistent in the use of garnishings. +Flowers and fruits are reserved for +sweet dishes, except in the case of nasturtiums, +which they regard as much a +vegetable as a flower and use freely with +meats.</p> + +<p>A stew or a creamed dish is merely a +more or less indifferent something to eat +when it is dished up any old way and +set upon the table. But if it is heaped +daintily on a pretty platter, surrounded +by a ring of brown mashed potato, its +sides decorated by dainty shapes of +toasted bread, perhaps buttered and +sprinkled with minced parsley, it has +become something to awaken the slumbering +or indifferent appetite and at +practically no extra expense of time or +money.</p> + +<p>If the yolks of two hard boiled eggs +are minced and mixed with part of the +raw white of one, the paste then formed +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_23">23–24</a></span>into balls like marbles and dropped +into boiling water, one has little yellow +spheres to lend an enlivening color note +to clear soups. Two or three of these +dropped into each plate just before +serving makes a pleasing change from +the usual croutons.</p> + +<p>Sprigs of fresh chickory make the +daintiest of garnishes for cold meats, +and a few of the tender green stalks +will add to the appearance of practically +any salad. As for water-cress and +pepper-grass and, of course, parsley, +minced and otherwise, no French chef +would think of preparing a meal without +a plentiful supply of them on hand.</p> + +<p>It isn't essential that every dish +should be turned into an elaborate +work of art, as if it were to be entered +at the annual exhibition of the Société +des Chefs de Cuisine, but neither is +there any reason, even with modest +means at command, for giving cause for +that old slogan of the great American +dinner table: “It tastes better than it +looks.”</p> + + + +<div class="new-h2"> </div> +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_25">25</a></span></div> +<h2>SAUCES, SIMPLE AND OTHERWISE</h2> + + +<p>Brillat-Savarin, who would be remembered +as a wit had he not been even +more brilliant as a chef, paid his respects +to the English by saying they were a +nation of a hundred religions and only +one sauce. Being a true Frenchman he +believed a reversal of the numbers +better for the soul. It is certainly +better for the appetite.</p> + +<p>To be sure the proper mental sauce +for a good dinner is wit, and the best +physical one, hunger, but as we all of +us have more or less of an Epicurean +strain in us and do not eat solely to +satisfy bodily needs, it is well that the +American cook who essays to bring +variety to her board should have some +knowledge of those Gallic creations, the +sauces, by which she is enabled to transform +plain dishes into seemingly pretentious +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_26">26</a></span>ones, even though she never +attain that sauce that Balzac knew, +“in which a mother might unsuspectingly +eat her own child.”</p> + +<p>In the first place every French chef +keeps three kinds of what he calls <i>roux</i> +on hand, ready for making meat and +fish sauces. These are made by cooking +together eight ounces of butter and +nine ounces of flour. That intended for +use with brown meats is stirred together +till it becomes a medium brown in shade; +white <i>roux</i> is cooked only sufficiently +to banish the raw taste and not allowed +to color, while pale <i>roux</i> is kept over the +fire just long enough to attain a deep +cream color. These are mixed with +milk, soup stock, water or gravy as +the case may be when a sauce for fish, +meat or vegetables is needed.</p> + +<p>For instance, to make <i>Sauce à la +Crème</i>, for use with white entrées, take +two tablespoonfuls of the white <i>roux</i> +in a saucepan with a cup of milk and a +tablespoonful each of finely chopped +parsley, shallots and chives. Boil fifteen +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_27">27</a></span>minutes, pass through a colander +into another saucepan, add a small +lump of butter, more finely chopped +parsley and salt and pepper. Mix well +with a wooden spoon and it is ready for +the table.</p> + +<p>To make a favorite <i>Sauce Piquante</i>, +cut two onions into slices, also a carrot +and two shallots and put into a saucepan +with a scant tablespoonful of butter. +While heating over a moderate +fire, add a sprig of thyme, a tablespoonful +of minced parsley, a bayleaf and two +or three cloves. When the onions are +golden brown add a tablespoonful of +flour, a little plain stock and a tablespoonful +of vinegar. Boil again, pass +through a sieve and season with salt +and pepper.</p> + +<p>A simple sauce is that <i>Maître d'Hôtel</i>, +which is rarely made at home though so +generally liked. Put a lump of butter +into a small saucepan over a moderate +fire and add to it chopped <ins title="parsely">parsley</ins> and +chives, or parsley alone. Season with +salt and pepper and a little lemon juice +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_28">28</a></span>and while it is sizzling pour over the +hot steak or fish.</p> + +<p><i>Sauce d'Anchois</i>, than which there +isn't anything better with baked fish, +is also easy to make. Take three or +four anchovies and mash them up well +with two tablespoonfuls of butter. Now +make about a pint of brown sauce with +brown <i>roux</i> and milk, and stir the +anchovy butter into it. Just before +taking from the fire add the juice of +half a lemon or more, according to taste.</p> + +<p><i>Sauce Bearnaise</i> was a favorite of +Henry of Navarre, and it is excellent +with steaks, chops and, particularly, +roast beef. To make it beat the yolks +of three or four eggs in a saucepan, add +a tablespoonful of butter and a little +salt. Stir over a slow fire till the eggs +begin to thicken, then remove and stir +in two more tablespoonfuls of butter, +stirring till the butter is dissolved. +Season with chopped fine herbs and +parsley and pour in a teaspoonful of +French vinegar.</p> + +<p>In many parts of France they have +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_29">29</a></span>a favorite dressing for boiled fish called +<i>Sauce Ravigote</i>. To make it mix half a +pint of stock in a saucepan with a small +amount of white wine or cider, then +chop fine herbs such as chervil, tarragon, +chives and parsley, or whatever +other herbs are in season, to the amount +of about three tablespoonfuls, and mix +with the stock, adding salt and pepper. +Stew gently for about twenty minutes, +then blend a tablespoonful each of +flour and butter, stir into the sauce and +continue to stir till thick. Just before +serving squeeze in the juice of half a +lemon.</p> + +<p>The word “<i>Ravigote</i>” means, literally, +“pick me up,” and it is applied to +minced tarragon, chervil, chives and +parsley, the herbs being kept separate +and served with salad on four little +saucers. <i>Ravigote</i> butter, made by +kneading butter with the four herbs +and adding pepper, salt and lemon +juice, spread between thin slices of +bread, makes delicious sandwiches.</p> + +<p>To make the very generally liked +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_30">30</a></span><i>Sauce Blanquette</i>, which is used to raise +cold meats to the dignity of a fricassée, +take about four ounces of pale <i>roux</i>, +thin slightly with boiling water added +by degrees, then put in a bunch of sweet +herbs, cooked button mushrooms and +small onions and pepper and salt to +taste. Put in whatever cold meat you +have, cook till it is well heated and +serve.</p> + +<p>The following is called <i>Sauce d'Havre</i>, +and through the use of it it will be +discovered that the taste of curry is an +agreeable one in many another case +than in connection with the veal and +rice arrangement to which most American +cooks restrict it. Peel and slice +four onions and two apples and place +in a stewpan with four ounces of butter, +six peppercorns, a sprig of thyme, two +bayleaves and a blade of mace. When +the onions have become slightly brown +over the moderate fire, stir in a mixture +of two tablespoonfuls of flour and the +same amount of curry powder, shortly +afterward adding six gills of white stock +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_31">31</a></span>and half a pint of white sauce. Season +with salt and half a teaspoonful of moist +sugar, boil for a quarter of an hour, +adding more white stock if necessary, +and stirring constantly. Put through +a strainer into another saucepan, boil +up again, skim, and use when required.</p> + +<p>Fricasseed chicken takes on a new +glory when it is prepared with <i>Sauce +Lyons</i>. This is made by stirring gradually +three well-beaten eggs into half a +pint of plain white sauce, then placing +the mixture in a jar and standing in +boiling water till the sauce thickens. +Just prior to pouring over the chicken +add the strained juice of half a lemon.</p> + + + +<div class="new-h2"> </div> +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_33">33</a></span></div> +<h2>TWENTY-FOUR LITTLE<br/> +<span style="letter-spacing: 0.2em; margin-right: -0.2em;">FRENCH DINNERS</span></h2> + + + +<div class="new-h3"> </div> +<h3>I</h3> + + +<h4>MENU</h4> + + +<ul class="menu"> +<li>Potage à la Duchesse</li> +<li>Cabillaud à la Bechamel</li> +<li>Pommes de Terre, Genevoise</li> +<li>Salade Celeri</li> +<li>Pouding à la Vanille</li> +</ul> + + +<h4 class="run-in">Potage à la Duchesse.</h4> +<p>—Butter a baking +sheet, cover with four ounces of chou +paste, cook in the oven for six minutes, +then cover the paste with forcemeat +in small lumps, a little distance apart. +Cut the paste into twelve equal sized +pieces, each piece holding a lump of the +forcemeat, place in a tureen, pour over +a quart of piping hot consommé and +serve.</p> + +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_34">34</a></span></div> +<h4 class="run-in">Cabillaud à la Bechamel.</h4> +<p>—Mix an ounce +of flour with an ounce and a half of +butter melted in a saucepan, then +gradually add a pint of milk which has +been allowed previously to simmer with +a minced onion and carrot in it, also a +bunch of sweet herbs, two or three +cloves, a grating of nutmeg and pepper +and salt. Bring to a boil, add two or +three tablespoonfuls of cream, strain +and put back into the saucepan. Now +put in two or three pounds of cod, +previously boiled and flaked, being +thoroughly free from skin and bones. +Shake all together very gently and +when all is thoroughly hot, turn out +onto a silver dish and garnish with +sliced hard-boiled eggs.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Pommes de Terre, Genevoise.</h4> +<p>—Shred +four medium sized boiled potatoes, +season with a little salt and pepper. +Butter lightly half a dozen tartlet +moulds, cover the bottoms with grated +Parmesan cheese, arrange in each a +layer of potatoes, then another sprinkling +of cheese, and so on till the moulds +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_35">35</a></span>are filled. Put a little butter on top. +Place on a very hot stove or in a very +hot oven for fifteen minutes to half an +hour. Serve on a hot dish in the moulds.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Salade Celeri.</h4> +<p>—Trim two or three +heads of celery, cut into short shreds, +wash thoroughly in cold water and drain. +Place in a salad bowl, season with a +little salt, a very little pepper and one +or two tablespoonfuls each of oil and +vinegar. Add several sprigs of pepper-grass +and serve at once.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Pouding à la Vanille.</h4> +<p>—Place a vanilla +bean in a mortar together with half a +pound of sugar and pound well together +and sift. Separate the whites from the +yolks of three eggs, beat the yolks well, +stir them in with a pint of cream and +mix in with the vanilla sugar. Whisk +the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth and +mix lightly in with the other ingredients. +Butter a pudding mould, pour in the +mixture and cover with a sheet of oiled +paper. Stand the mould in a saucepan +of boiling water and steam the +pudding for half an hour. In the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_36">36</a></span>meantime prepare the following sauce: +Pour a breakfast cupful of canned or +fresh pineapple juice into a lined pan +with the juice of a lemon. Put this on +the fire till it boils, then pour it over a +tablespoonful of arrowroot, stirring all +the time. Return the sauce to the +saucepan and stir till it thickens over +the fire. When the pudding is cooked, +turn it out onto a hot dish, strain the +sauce over it and serve. Be careful +that no water enters the mould containing +the pudding while it is cooking, +or it will be spoiled.</p> + + + +<div class="new-h3"> </div> +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_37">37</a></span></div> +<h3>II</h3> + + +<h4>MENU</h4> + + +<ul class="menu"> +<li>Consommé à la Napolitaine</li> +<li>Cabillaud à la Financière</li> +<li>Pommes de Terre en Rubans</li> +<li>Beignets à la Printemps</li> +<li>Choufleur au Gratin</li> +<li>Bavaroise au Café</li> +</ul> + + +<h4 class="run-in">Consommé à la Napolitaine.</h4> +<p>—Place in +a saucepan with a lump of butter equal +quantities of finely minced carrots, +turnips, a head of lettuce and one of +endive with a little chervil. Add a +quart of the water in which the cauliflower +in this dinner was cooked, pepper +and salt, and simmer for an hour. +Just before serving stir in the beaten +yolk of an egg and half a pint of milk.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Cabillaud à la Financière.</h4> +<p>—Cook a piece +of cod weighing three pounds in salted +water for twenty minutes, drain a place +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_38">38</a></span>on a serving platter covered with the +following sauce: Put two glasses of +Madeira wine and a small piece of meat +glaze in a saucepan with a pint of +Spanish sauce and a gill each of essence +of mushrooms and truffles. Boil till it +coats the spoon.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Pommes de Terre en Rubans.</h4> +<p>—Take +large, smooth, pared potatoes and cut +round and round in spirals about an +eighth of an inch thick. Keep covered +with a damp napkin till all are cut, place +in a frying basket and fry in very hot +fat till a light straw color. Sprinkle +freely with salt and serve immediately.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Beignets à la Printemps.</h4> +<p>—Make a sauce +of two ounces of butter, four ounces +of flour, a tablespoonful of brandy, +a pinch of salt, sufficient water to make +a creamy paste. Cook and, removing +from the stove, work in the whites of +two eggs beaten to a stiff froth. Cut +into pieces any fruit desired, dip them +in the batter and fry in butter to a +light golden brown. Drain well, place +in a serving dish, sprinkle well with +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_39">39</a></span>powdered sugar and serve. If the fruit +is not fully ripe, parboil in syrup before +using.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Choufleur au Gratin.</h4> +<p>—Soak a cauliflower +in water with plenty of salt, then +boil in plenty of salted water for fifteen +minutes. Remove and take away all +the green leaves, lay it on a flat buttered +dish, previously rubbed with an +onion, and pour over it a sauce made as +follows: Melt an ounce and a half of +butter in a saucepan, add a dessertspoonful +of flour, mix and add a cup of +milk. Stir till it thickens, add pepper +and salt and add two or three tablespoonfuls +of grated Parmesan cheese. +Mix well and after pouring over the +cauliflower sprinkle all over with breadcrumbs +and place the dish in the oven +till nicely browned.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Bavaroise au Café.</h4> +<p>—Mix the beaten +yolks of two eggs with a pint of milk +and a cup of very strong black coffee. +Bring to a boil in a saucepan, remove +from the fire and allow to get cold, +stirring occasionally. Add the yolks +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_40">40</a></span>of two more eggs beaten stiff with two +ounces of sugar. Mix well and then +add the stiffly beaten whites of the four +eggs along with half an ounce of dissolved +gelatin. Pour into a mould and +turn out when set.</p> + + + +<div class="new-h3"> </div> +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_41">41</a></span></div> +<h3>III</h3> + + +<h4>MENU</h4> + + +<ul class="menu"> +<li>Filet de Sole à la Provençal</li> +<li>Poulet Sauté à l'Estragon</li> +<li>Artichauts à la Barigoule</li> +<li>Petit Petac</li> +<li>Soufflé Georgette</li> +</ul> + + +<h4 class="run-in">Filets des Soles à la Provençal.</h4> +<p>—Sprinkle +the filets with pepper and salt and a +little allspice and fry in salad oil with +a finely chopped onion and a little +chopped parsley. Serve with a slice of +lemon on each filet.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Poulet Sauté à l'Estragon.</h4> +<p>—Sprinkle the +pieces of a cut up raw chicken with +pepper and salt and cook in a saucepan +with a little oil. Make a gravy of +a cupful of clear stock in which tarragon +stalks have been boiled for an hour, +dish up the fowl on a hot platter, pour +over the sauce, straining it, and sprinkle +on top tarragon leaves blanched and +coarsely chopped.</p> + +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_42">42</a></span></div> +<h4 class="run-in">Artichauts à la Barigoule.</h4> +<p>—Cut off +the tops and leaves of the artichokes +and boil the bottoms in plenty of +slightly salted water till tender. Scoop +out the fibrous interior. Grate some +cooked bacon into a saucepan with a +gill of fine herbs and a cupful of broth. +Cook for five minutes. Put a little of +this mixture in each artichoke, cover the +opening with a slice of lemon and bake +in a sauté-pan in the oven for twenty +minutes.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Petit Petac.</h4> +<p>—Peel tiny new potatoes +and sauté in oil till a golden brown. +Sprinkle with chopped parsley and serve.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Soufflé Georgette.</h4> +<p>—Grate a half-dozen +stale macaroons into a half-cup of +brandy, add a pint of cream and two +teaspoonfuls of dissolved gelatine. +Whip in a dozen maraschino cherries +and turn into a mould to harden. Serve +with macaroons dipped into the liquid +that comes around the maraschino +cherries. A custard may be used in this +recipe instead of the cream.</p> + + + +<div class="new-h3"> </div> +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_43">43</a></span></div> +<h3>IV</h3> + + +<h4>MENU</h4> + + +<ul class="menu"> +<li>Potage au Riz</li> +<li>Rougets en Papillotes</li> +<li>Veau à la Suzette</li> +<li>Demi tasse</li> +</ul> + + +<h4 class="run-in">Potage au Riz.</h4> +<p>—Put half a pound of +well-washed rice into a saucepan with +two quarts of vegetable stock and boil +till tender. When the rice is cooked +move the saucepan to the side of the +fire and mix in a cupful of stewed tomatoes +and an ounce and a half of +butter. Serve with sippets of toast or +croutons that have been fried in butter.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Rougets en Papillotes.</h4> +<p>—This recipe is +for mullets, but any small, plump fish +may be used. Make a paper case for +each fish with a sheet of well-oiled notepaper +and put the cases into the oven +for a few minutes to harden. Sprinkle +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_44">44</a></span>the under sides of the fish with pepper +and salt and lay them in their cases +with a small piece of butter under and +over each. Place the cases in a baking-dish +and cook for about twenty minutes +in the oven, or more if the fish are otherwise +than small. Sprinkle well with +lemon juice just before serving.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Veau à la Suzette.</h4> +<p>—Trim saddle of +veal neatly and put it into a saucepan +with a good sized piece of butter. Turn +it constantly on the fire till it is a rich +golden color all over, then put it onto a +dish and sprinkle with salt and pepper. +Add more butter to the gravy in the +saucepan and put in raw potatoes cut +up in sections like oranges. Cover the +saucepan and cook, shaking frequently, +till the potatoes have a good color. +Add an onion, finely minced, and when +it is browned, a clove of garlic, minced +very fine; next put in a tablespoonful +of flour followed, when the flour is +brown, by about two cupfuls of stock. +Stir well and put back the meat and +any juice that may have oozed from it. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_45">45</a></span>Lastly add a bouquet of herbs, simmer +for an hour at least and serve the meat +surrounded by the potatoes with the +sauce poured over the whole.</p> + + + +<div class="new-h3"> </div> +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_46">46</a></span></div> +<h3>V</h3> + + +<h4>MENU</h4> + + +<ul class="menu"> +<li>Potage à l'Américaine</li> +<li>Filet d'Eglefin</li> +<li>Gigot de Mouton aux Épinards</li> +<li>Chou de Mer au Fromage</li> +<li>Petites Crèmes au Chocolat</li> +</ul> + + +<h4 class="run-in">Potage à l'Américaine.</h4> +<p>—Parboil a medium +sized cauliflower in salted water, +change the water and boil till done. +Drain well and press through a sieve. +Dilute with consommé or broth. Boil +a few minutes more, stirring well. Beat +up in a basin the yolk of an egg with +three tablespoonfuls of cream, add this +to a few tablespoonfuls of the cauliflower +mixture, then, taking the saucepan +containing the soup from the fire, +add the egg and cream mixture and stir +together. Add half an ounce of butter +and serve with croutons.</p> + +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_47">47</a></span></div> +<h4 class="run-in">Filet d'Eglefin.</h4> +<p>—Cut a haddock into +fillets, trimming into pieces about six +inches long. Dip them in well beaten +egg and then into sifted breadcrumbs +and plunge into deep, well-boiling fat, +frying to a rich color, turning occasionally +to cook both sides evenly. Remove, +drain, put on a cloth spread over +a hot dish and serve with a simple +white sauce.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Gigot de Mouton aux Épinards.</h4> +<p>—Roast +a small leg of mutton, putting some salt +and a small quantity of water at the +bottom of the tin. When half cooked, +remove the meat and carefully skim +the gravy of all fat. Return the mutton +to the tin, pour gravy over it and surround +it with potatoes cut to the size +of walnuts. Put back in the oven, letting +the potatoes cook in the juice of +the meat. Meanwhile cook about three +pounds of spinach, drain, squeeze out +all water and pass through a sieve. +Return to a saucepan in which about +two ounces of butter has been heated +and season with pepper and salt. Add +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_48">48</a></span>a tablespoonful of gravy from the mutton +and allow the spinach to simmer till +the meat is done. Then pile the spinach +with the potatoes about the meat and +serve, having the gravy in a sauceboat.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Chou de Mer au Fromage.</h4> +<p>—Carefully +wash sea-kale to remove grit, remove +any black parts from the roots and tie +up the shoots in small bundles. Cook +in boiling salted water for twenty minutes, +drain and keep hot. Mix on the +fire an ounce of butter and a tablespoonful +of flour, moisten with half a +cup of water in which the kale was +cooked, bring to a boil and mix in two +or three <ins title="tablespoonsfuls">tablespoonfuls</ins> of grated Parmesan +cheese. Take from the fire and +add the beaten yolk of an egg. Arrange +the kale on a hot dish, pour the sauce +over and serve immediately.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Petites Crèmes au Chocolat.</h4> +<p>—Mix two +tablespoonfuls of chocolate or cocoa +in a cup of boiling milk and sweeten to +taste. When nearly cold add to this the +yolks of two eggs, well beaten, and a gill +of heavy cream. Mix thoroughly and +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_49">49</a></span>strain into china cases. Place these in +a large shallow stewpan containing just +sufficient water to reach half way up on +the cases. Let steam for twenty minutes, +when the custard ought to be firm. +The water should be boiling when the +cases are first put in, but afterwards +may simmer. Put the cases on ice, and +serve as cold as possible with little +sponge cakes or lady fingers.</p> + + + +<div class="new-h3"> </div> +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_50">50</a></span></div> +<h3>VI</h3> + + +<h4>MENU</h4> + + +<ul class="menu"> +<li>Potage purée de Pois Secs</li> +<li>Saumon à la Hollandaise</li> +<li>Pommes de Terre, Barigoule</li> +<li>Haricots verts au riz tomate</li> +</ul> + + +<h4 class="run-in">Potage Purée de Pois Secs.</h4> +<p>—Boil a pint +of green peas in three pints of water +with a piece of fat ham or bacon, two +carrots, an onion, a leek, a bayleaf, +some parsley, pepper and salt. Allow +to simmer two or three hours, stirring +occasionally. Pass the peas and onions +through a hair sieve and add the strained +liquor. Return to the saucepan, boil +up, add some whole cooked peas with a +little mint and serve.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Saumon à la Hollandaise.</h4> +<p>—Cut a piece +of salmon from the middle of the fish, +cover in the kettle with cold water <ins title="and,">and</ins> +plenty of salt. Bring slowly to a boil, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_51">51</a></span>removing scum, and allow to simmer till +the fish is done. Drain thoroughly and +serve with the following sauce in a boat: +Take three ounces of butter, the yolks +of two eggs and put them in a double +boiler over the fire, stirring briskly till +the butter is dissolved. Mix in a scant +ounce of flour, stir well and add the +juice of a lemon, half a pint of milk, +a little grated nutmeg and pepper and +salt. Stir constantly till the sauce +thickens to the consistency of a custard.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Pommes de Terre, Barigoule.</h4> +<p>—Place +ten potatoes in a saucepan with enough +broth to cover them and boil slowly +till done. Drain, taking care not to +break them. Put a teacupful of olive +oil into a deep frying pan, heat, put in +the potatoes, tossing them till they are +browned all over lightly. Place on a +dish and sprinkle with salt, pepper and +vinegar. Serve piping hot.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Haricots verts au riz tomate.</h4> +<p>—Boil rice +carefully so that every grain will be +separate, toss it in a little butter and +moisten with tomato sauce and add +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_52">52</a></span>the yolk of an egg, well beaten and +stirred in, and a little Parmesan cheese. +Make a border of the rice on a dish and +pile in the center some French beans +plainly boiled and tossed in a little +butter with some pepper and salt.</p> + + + +<div class="new-h3"> </div> +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_53">53</a></span></div> +<h3>VII</h3> + + +<h4>MENU</h4> + + +<ul class="menu"> +<li>Potage Velouté</li> +<li>Brochet à la Tartare</li> +<li>Biftecks sautés aux Olives</li> +<li>Pommes de Terre à la Lyonnaise</li> +<li>Épinards au Gratin</li> +<li>Beignets Soufflés</li> +</ul> + + +<h4 class="run-in">Potage Velouté.</h4> +<p>—Boil a cup and a +half of tapioca in two quarts of water +and season with salt and pepper. At +the bottom of a tureen place a lump of +butter, and the yolks of two eggs, pour +the tapioca over while it is still boiling, +add a pint of hot milk and serve.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Brochet à la Tartare.</h4> +<p>—Cut a fresh +pike into slices and marinade each +slice separately with a sauce made of +sufficient olive oil, black pepper, a +minced onion, finely cut mushrooms and +chopped parsley. Cover the fish with +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_54">54</a></span>breadcrumbs and broil, brushing occasionally +with the marinade. When it +is a golden color remove from the fire, +place on a hot platter and serve sprinkled +with parsley with a tartar sauce in a +sauceboat.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Biftecks sautés aux Olives.</h4> +<p>—Cut the +steak into six pieces and toss in a frying +pan with lard. When well done +sprinkle with seasoning and remove +from the fire. Then take half a glass of +white wine, a tablespoonful of consommé, +two or three dozen green olives, +with the pits removed, and boil together +for a few minutes. Set the steak +in a crown on the platter and in the +center place the dressing. Pour the +gravy from the frying pan over all and +serve.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Pommes de Terre à la Lyonnaise.</h4> +<p>—Take +a dozen potatoes of the same size, +cut into pieces the size of a quarter of a +dollar, roll in flour and put into a frying +pan with boiling fat, taking them out +when they are a golden brown. Also +fry some thin slices of onion, mix with +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_55">55</a></span>the potatoes, sprinkle with salt and +serve garnished with parsley.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Épinards au Gratin.</h4> +<p>—Boil two pounds +of spinach and chop very fine. Beat up +two eggs to each pound of spinach, +mix with it and sprinkle the whole with +breadcrumbs. Pour over some olive +oil or melted butter and heat thoroughly +in the oven in a vegetable dish.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Beignets Soufflés.</h4> +<p>—Put a pound of +flour, a pinch of salt, a liquor glass of +rum, the yolks of three eggs and a +quantity of lukewarm water into a +mixing dish and beat these together +till it shrinks from the dish. Then mix +in the well-beaten whites of the eggs and +then allow to rise for an hour or so. +Have a baking dish very hot and put in +the paste in pieces the size of a nut, which +will triple in size while cooking. Let +them cook to a golden color, remove +from the fire and sprinkle with powdered +sugar. Serve hot.</p> + + + +<div class="new-h3"> </div> +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_56">56</a></span></div> +<h3>VIII</h3> + + +<h4>MENU</h4> + + +<ul class="menu"> +<li>Consommé Royale</li> +<li>Filet de Sole à la Vénétienne</li> +<li>Salade Barbe de Capucin</li> +<li>Beignets de Pêches</li> +</ul> + + +<h4 class="run-in">Consommé Royale.</h4> +<p>—Beat two eggs +and mix them with half a cup of milk +and a pinch of salt. Pour into a basin, +stand this in a larger one containing hot +water, place in the oven and bake till +the contents of the small basin are firm, +renewing water in the larger dish if +necessary. Allow to cool and when set +cut into small well-shaped pieces, pour +over them a quart of hot consommé +and serve immediately.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Filet de Sole à la Vénétienne.</h4> +<p>—Place +in a buttered tin two small or one large +onion cut in thin slices, a little chopped +parsley, a bayleaf, one or two whole +cloves and salt and pepper. Lay the +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_57">57</a></span>fillets of two soles on these with a +generous piece of butter, pour over half +a pint of white stock and a small glass +of white wine. Cover the tin with oiled +paper, and bake in the oven for about +twelve minutes. When the fish is +cooked take out all the liquor except +just enough to keep the fish moist as it +remains in the oven turned very low, +strain it and add three-quarters of an +ounce of flour and the same amount of +butter. Bring the sauce to a boil, take +it from the fire, add the yolk of an egg +and a good amount of blanched parsley +and chervil, chopped very fine. Arrange +the fillets of sole on a hot dish, +pour the sauce over and serve.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Salade Barbe de Capucin.</h4> +<p>—Carefully +pick over and break into convenient +pieces the required amount of chicory +and place in a salad bowl well rubbed +with an onion. Just before serving pour +over a French dressing, remembering +to be in making it “a spendthrift for +oil, a miser for vinegar, a counselor +for salt and a madman to stir it all up.”</p> + +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_58">58</a></span></div> +<h4 class="run-in">Beignets des Pêches.</h4> +<p>—Peel, stone and +cut in halves some firm peaches. Toss +about in a bowl with sugar, being careful +not to break. Put a pound of flour +in a basin and stir in gradually half a +pint of water. Mix the whites of two +stiffly beaten eggs with this batter and +then add one and a quarter ounces of +melted butter. Bring olive oil to a good +heat in a frying pan, dip each piece of +peach in the batter and fry in the fat. +When lightly browned drain on a cloth +or paper, lay on a baking dish, sift +powdered sugar over and glaze by placing +in a hot oven a few minutes. Arrange +in pyramid shape on a folded +napkin on a hot dish and serve immediately. +Canned peaches, if firm, +may, of course, be substituted for the +fresh fruit.</p> + + + +<div class="new-h3"> </div> +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_59">59</a></span></div> +<h3>IX</h3> + + +<h4>MENU</h4> + + +<ul class="menu"> +<li>Côtelettes de Saumon, à l'Anglaise</li> +<li>Pommes de Terre, Marquise</li> +<li>Petits Pois à la Paysanne</li> +<li>Salade Américaine</li> +<li>Choux au Chocolat</li> +</ul> + + +<h4 class="run-in">Côtelettes de Saumon, Anglaise.</h4> +<p>—Divide +slices of salmon into shape of cutlets, +sprinkle with pepper and salt and put +into a saucepan with a small amount +of butter and toss over the fire. When +cooked take out and drain, place on a +hot dish and serve with the following +sauce: Put three tablespoonfuls of +velouté sauce into a saucepan, reduce +slightly and add one egg, four ounces of +butter, a little salt, cayenne, some +finely minced parsley and the juice of +half a lemon. Mix together well over +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_60">60</a></span>the fire till the ingredients are blended +and it is ready.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Pommes de Terre, Marquise.</h4> +<p>—Boil potatoes +in salted water and pass through +a sieve. Season with salt, pepper, nutmeg, +chopped parsley and a little +chopped thyme. Moisten with some +good gravy or stock and form into small +balls. Dip each in well beaten egg and +fry to a light brown in butter.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Petits Pois à la Paysanne.</h4> +<p>—Take fresh +green peas, or canned ones if the former +are not available, put over the fire in a +saucepan with plenty of butter and stir +frequently. Cut one or two rashers of +bacon in very small dice and toss them +in a saucepan over the fire. When the +bacon is well fried, mix in with the peas +and let the two finish cooking together, +seasoning with pepper, salt and a little +sugar.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Salade Américaine.</h4> +<p>—Cut in rounds resembling +a quarter-dollar equal quantities +of new potatoes, carrots and beet +root, all previously cooked. Then add a +sour apple, cut in the same shape, and a +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_61">61</a></span>few anchovies cut in small pieces. Pour +over this a dressing of three parts oil to +one of vinegar, add pepper, salt, mustard +and chopped parsley. Pile the salad up +and surround with cress.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Choux au Chocolat.</h4> +<p>—Into a small +saucepan put half a cup of water with +two ounces of butter and one of sugar. +When boiling add gradually two and a +half ounces of finely sifted flour and stir +till the mixture is stiff. Take from the +fire, stir some more, then add two eggs, +one at a time, beat the whole well, and +leave to cool. Butter a baking sheet, +lay the paste on it in round balls the +size of a plum and bake in a moderate +oven for about twenty minutes. Allow +to cool and then make an incision in +the side of each and fill with whipped +cream slightly flavored with vanilla or +with jam. Just before serving glaze +each chou slightly with a chocolate +icing.</p> + + + +<div class="new-h3"> </div> +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_62">62</a></span></div> +<h3>X</h3> + + +<h4>MENU</h4> + + +<ul class="menu"> +<li>Consommé Duchesse</li> +<li>Saumon, Sauce Piquante</li> +<li>Rissolettes de Bœuf</li> +<li>Salade à la Reine</li> +<li>Crème Noyau</li> +</ul> + + +<h4 class="run-in">Duchesse Consommé.</h4> +<p>—Boil four tablespoonfuls +of rice (ground) in four cups of +water for fifteen minutes, adding half a +teaspoonful each of salt and sugar. When +the rice is soft and just before serving +add a quart of warmed milk, bring to a +boil, adding lastly a dash of pepper and +paprika.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Saumon, Sauce Piquante.</h4> +<p>—Take slices +of salmon about three-quarters of an +inch in thickness and place in a saucepan +with hot fish broth mixed with a small +quantity of wine. Allow to simmer for +fifteen minutes. When cooked remove +and wipe free from broth, place on a +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_63">63</a></span>hot platter and serve with a sauce made +as follows: Melt a quantity of butter, +flavor to taste with tarragon vinegar, +pepper, mustard, fennel and such spices +as are liked. Stir over the fire till +cooked, move to the side of the stove, +thicken with the yolk of an egg and +serve.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Rissolettes de Bœuf.</h4> +<p>—With four cups +of finely minced beef mix one cup of +breadcrumbs, adding one boiled onion, +a little essence of anchovies, salt, pepper +and a raw egg. Make into balls, roll in +breadcrumbs and fry slowly. Prepare +a gravy by boiling the trimmings of the +meat in the water in which the onion was +boiled, thicken with flour or cornstarch, +add three teaspoonfuls of lemon juice +and pour over the rissolettes which +should be arranged on a heated platter +around a heap of mashed potatoes.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Salade à la Reine.</h4> +<p>—Lay strips of endive +lengthwise on the salad plates and cross +them with peeled tomatoes cut in sections +like an orange. Dress with a +French salad dressing.</p> + +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_64">64</a></span></div> +<h4 class="run-in">Crème Noyau.</h4> +<p>—Pound in a mortar +together a quarter pound of Jordan and +an ounce of bitter almonds with a scant +half cup of cream and two ounces of +sugar. Rub through a sieve into a bowl, +add a pint of whipped cream flavored +with Noyau and then an ounce of gelatine +dissolved. Pour into a mould to +set. Serve with champagne wafers.</p> + + + +<div class="new-h3"> </div> +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_65">65</a></span></div> +<h3>XI</h3> + + +<h4>MENU</h4> + + +<ul class="menu"> +<li>Consommé à la Madrilène</li> +<li>Perches aux Fines Herbes</li> +<li>Filets Mignons aux Pommes de Terre</li> +<li>Aubergines Farcies</li> +<li>Omelette au Rhum</li> +</ul> + + +<h4 class="run-in">Consommé à la Madrilène.</h4> +<p>—Put through +a medium sieve five or six boiled ripe +tomatoes, or a can of tomatoes, allow to +cool and pack in a freezer. Add to a +cold consommé and serve in cups.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Perches aux Fines Herbes.</h4> +<p>—Prepare six +fresh perch and marinade them with two +tablespoonfuls of olive oil, a sprig of +parsley, a little pepper and salt and allspice, +bayleaf and other strong spices +chopped fine. Keep the fish in this for +about an hour, remove and roll in breadcrumbs +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_66">66</a></span>lightly flavored with spices. +Grill over a low fire till a golden +brown in color and serve with butter +sauce.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Filets Mignons aux Pommes de Terre.</h4> +<p>—Marinade +the required number of small +filets mignon of mutton in butter seasoned +with salt and chervil. Leave for +an hour or more and just before they +are to be served, grill them, basting +frequently with the butter. Flavor with +lemon juice and serve with buttered +fried potatoes.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Aubergines Farcies.</h4> +<p>—Cut eggplants in +halves lengthwise, remove the inside +and of this make a farcie by mixing it +with chopped parsley, two chopped +onions and salt and pepper. Stuff the +eggplant halves with this mixture and +put the combination into a casserole +containing a good quantity of melted +butter and allow to simmer over a slow +fire till all is thoroughly done. Cover +the tops with breadcrumbs, add a drop +of oil or a little melted butter and keep +piping hot till served.</p> + +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_67">67</a></span></div> +<h4 class="run-in">Omelette au Rhum.</h4> +<p>—Prepare an +omelette as for any sweet omelette and +just before serving place on a hot platter, +pour rum over, ignite and carry to +the table blazing.</p> + + + +<div class="new-h3"> </div> +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_68">68</a></span></div> +<h3>XII</h3> + + +<h4>MENU</h4> + + +<ul class="menu"> +<li>Potage Riz, Creçy</li> +<li>Canapés de Saumon Fumé</li> +<li>Paupiettes de Porc, Sauce Piquante</li> +<li>Asperges en Petits Pois</li> +<li>Tarte à la Turque</li> +</ul> + + +<h4 class="run-in">Potage Riz, Creçy.</h4> +<p>—Cut several firm, +red carrots lengthwise, using only the +red part. Place in a casserole with a +good bouillon and allow to simmer over +a slow fire. Pass through a sieve when +the carrots are soft, and put back in the +bouillon. Add a cupful of cooked rice, +bring to a boil and serve.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Canapés de Saumon Fumé.</h4> +<p>—Cut a smoked +salmon into slices and spread them with +butter, adding pepper and salt and a +pinch of nutmeg. Heat over a crisp +fire, place on a hot dish, cover with +croutons and serve.</p> + +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_69">69</a></span></div> +<h4 class="run-in">Paupiettes de Porc, Sauce Piquante.</h4> +<p>—Take +small slices of cold roast pork +and spread them with sausage meat. +Roll them and fasten with skewers, then +cover with a thin coating of lard or with +oiled paper and cook them over a low +fire in a casserole. When thoroughly +done, take off the papers, cover with +breadcrumbs and brown. Serve with a +piquant sauce.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Asperges en Petits Pois.</h4> +<p>—Cut up the +green part of two bunches of asparagus, +roll in butter and add a little salt. Heat +a cupful of flour, being careful not to +allow it to color, and dredge the asparagus +with it. Put into a saucepan with +sufficient milk and water in equal parts +to cover, add a bouquet of herbs and +allow the whole to simmer till the asparagus +is cooked. Season with white pepper +and serve.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Tarte à la Turque.</h4> +<p>—Boil a cupful of +rice till thick in milk to which has been +added a stick of cinnamon, a little +lemon juice and sugar. When the rice +is cooked allow to cool. Make a border +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_70">70</a></span>of it on a buttered plate and fill the +center with a marmalade made as follows: +Cut the peeled stalks of a bunch +of rhubarb into dice and allow them to +simmer in a small amount of water till +they are of the consistency of marmalade. +Add three or four teaspoonfuls of +sugar, a lump of butter and the rind of +a lemon. Take from the fire and immediately +add the beaten yolks of two +eggs. Arrange, as stated, in the middle +of the rice, sprinkle with a little more +sugar and set in the oven for fifteen +minutes or more before serving.</p> + + + +<div class="new-h3"> </div> +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_71">71</a></span></div> +<h3>XIII</h3> + + +<h4>MENU</h4> + + +<ul class="menu"> +<li>Potage à la Chicorée</li> +<li>Allumettes d'Anchois</li> +<li>Bœuf Bouilli en Vinaigrette</li> +<li>Pommes Maire</li> +<li>Salade de Tomates</li> +<li>Crème Brulée</li> +</ul> + + +<h4 class="run-in">Potage à la Chicorée.</h4> +<p>—Pick carefully +and wash two or three heads of chicory, +cut into shreds and pass through a little +heated butter without allowing to take +color. Then add sufficient of the water +in which the Pommes Maire (below) +were boiled to make the required quantity +of soup, add pepper and salt, simmer +for an hour. Just after taking from +the fire add the beaten yolk of an egg. +Pour into the tureen over toasted slices +of stale bread.</p> + +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_72">72</a></span></div> +<h4 class="run-in">Allumettes d'Anchois.</h4> +<p>—Make a fritter +paste with flour and oil, omitting salt. +Soften with white wine. Wash the +desired number of anchovies, remove the +bones and draw out the salt by soaking +in milk. Dip into the paste and fry.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Bœuf Bouilli en Vinaigrette.</h4> +<p>—Cut cold, +lean beef into narrow, thin slices. Place +it in a bowl with a finely chopped onion +and some chervil, a few cut-up gherkins, +a teaspoonful of capers, pour oil, a little +vinegar and the juice of half a lemon +over, add pepper and salt, toss well +together and serve at once.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Pommes Maire.</h4> +<p>—Use “kidney” potatoes +if procurable; if not, ordinary potatoes +of small size. Boil in salt water and +peel while still hot, then cut in thick +chips and place in a casserole and cover +with boiling milk. Season with pepper +and salt and allow to boil, turning with a +fork till the milk has boiled away. Remove +from the fire, pour over a cup of +rich milk, season again and serve.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Salade de Tomates.</h4> +<p>—Cut a pound of +not too ripe tomatoes into one inch +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_73">73</a></span>cubes, add salt, pepper, vinegar and oil +to taste and then toss together with a +minced onion. Serve right away. If +desired, cold boiled beef in dainty slices +may be added.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Crème Brulée.</h4> +<p>—Blend a tablespoonful +of flour with the yolks of three eggs +and place in a casserole. Pour slowly +in a pint or more of milk, add a pinch of +cinnamon, a few drops of extract of +lemon or any flavor desired, and stir +constantly over the fire. When the +cream is cooked, make a caramel sauce +in a porcelain pot by melting five or +six lumps of sugar and cooking to the +browning point. Pour this into a +serving dish, pour the cream over it and +allow to cool.</p> + + + +<div class="new-h3"> </div> +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_74">74</a></span></div> +<h3>XIV</h3> + + +<h4>MENU</h4> + + +<ul class="menu"> +<li>Bisque d'Herbes</li> +<li>Turbot à la Rachel</li> +<li>Choufleur au Gratin</li> +<li>Salade Barbe de Capucin</li> +<li>Gâteau de Frangipane</li> +</ul> + + +<h4 class="run-in">Bisque d'Herbes.</h4> +<p>—Chop together about +a handful each of lettuce, sorrel, spinach, +also a small onion, a little celery and +some chervil and cook all with an egg-sized +piece of butter for fifteen minutes, +stirring constantly. Then add three +tablespoonfuls of flour made smooth +with a little stock, stir in four cupfuls of +the cauliflower water (which you will +have from a recipe following) into which +has been beaten the yolk of an egg. +Serve very hot with croutons.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Turbot à la Rachel.</h4> +<p>—Boil the fish +in salted water. Whitefish or haddock +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_75">75</a></span>will serve as well as turbot. Make the +following sauce: Smooth and brown +together two tablespoonfuls of flour and +two ounces of butter and stir in five +gills of water in which the fish was +boiled, adding a teaspoonful each of +anchovy essence and mushroom catsup. +Remove from the fire and beat in the +yolks of two eggs and the juice of one +lemon. Color with liquid carmine or a +few drops of cochineal and pour over +the fish.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Choufleur au Gratin.</h4> +<p>—Dip the cauliflower +into ice water, then plunge it into +boiling salted water to cook fifteen +minutes. Cut a slice off the stalk, +remove the leaves, lay on a flat dish and +cover with a cream sauce. Sprinkle +with grated breadcrumbs and grated +Parmesan cheese, brown in the oven +and serve.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Salade Barbe de Capucin.</h4> +<p>—Lay the +stalks of American endive in a dish and +cut into small pieces a medium shallot. +Mix, add a French dressing and sprinkle +with finely chopped tarragon leaves.</p> + +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_76">76</a></span></div> +<h4 class="run-in">Gâteau de Frangipane.</h4> +<p>—Whisk together +a quarter of a pound of powdered sugar +and the whites of three eggs, then beat in +three tablespoonfuls of milk, the grated +peel of a lemon and a dash of salt. Then +stir in half a pound of flour. Bake in +patty tins and when done scoop a piece +out of the top of each patty and fill with +jam. Then pour over a sauce made as +follows: Put two wineglassfuls of white +wine into a small saucepan and stir in a +cupful of orange marmalade with the +juice of a lemon. Thicken with a little +corn-starch.</p> + + + +<div class="new-h3"> </div> +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_77">77</a></span></div> +<h3>XV</h3> + + +<h4>MENU</h4> + + +<ul class="menu"> +<li>Potage Bisque</li> +<li>Canard à la Pertinset</li> +<li>Pommes de Terre à la Crème</li> +<li>Choufleur au Beurre Noir</li> +<li>Salade de Lentilles</li> +<li>Pêches au Vin</li> +</ul> + + +<h4 class="run-in">Potage Bisque.</h4> +<p>—Boil as many crabs +as are needed in water, adding salt, +pepper, two good sized onions and equal +quantities of carrots and chives. Remove +the crabs and take the meat from +the claws. Mash the vegetables until +they form a purée and add a good sized +lump of butter. Place over the fire with +water or bouillon and allow to come to a +boil. Serve very hot with croutons and +the meat from the crab claws.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Canard à la Pertinset.</h4> +<p>—Place a carefully +prepared duck in a casserole and dredge +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_78">78</a></span>it with a lump of melted butter, add two +onions, one clove, a dash of garlic. Put +in the oven but do not allow the onions +to become too brown before removing +the duck. Then add five or six tomatoes, +one glass of white wine, a glass of +bouillon, a few cloves and a bayleaf. +Let this boil over a low fire, then mash +the tomatoes and onions, put back the +duck into the casserole and boil for forty +minutes.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Pommes de Terre à la Crème.</h4> +<p>—Put into +a casserole a lump of butter, a pinch of +flour, salt and pepper, nutmeg and a +young onion. Mix well and add a cup +of rich milk. Place on the fire, stir constantly, +and remove as soon as the +mixture comes to a boil. Meanwhile +boil as many potatoes as are required +in salted water. Peel and cut into slices, +add to the sauce and serve.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Choufleur au Beurre Noir.</h4> +<p>—Boil a cauliflower +and drain. Add a pinch of salt, +nutmeg and a dash of vinegar to a pint of +the water in which the cauliflower was +cooked. Melt two tablespoonfuls of +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_79">79</a></span>butter and when it is a light brown add +it to the mixture. Pour over the cauliflower +on a hot platter.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Salade de Lentilles.</h4> +<p>—Having boiled two +cupfuls of lentils till they are tender, +season them either hot or cold with a +little garlic cut up fine, or with chives +and serve in lettuce leaves with a French +dressing.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Pêches au Vin.</h4> +<p>—Put peaches into a +stewpan and cover them with water. In +ten minutes remove the skins. Then +place them in a shallow dish and cover +them either with Madeira or Moselle +wine and allow them to stand for at +least two hours. Then drain them, +place them in the dish in which they are +to be served and cover them with vanilla +sugar. Set the wine in which they have +been soaked on the fire, add sugar to +taste, and pour the sauce boiling over the +peaches.</p> + + + +<div class="new-h3"> </div> +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_80">80</a></span></div> +<h3>XVI</h3> + + +<h4>MENU</h4> + + +<ul class="menu"> +<li>Sardines Grillées</li> +<li>Chapon à l'Indienne</li> +<li>Pommes de Terre en Matelote</li> +<li>Salade Beaucaire</li> +<li>Crème Fouettée</li> +</ul> + + +<h4 class="run-in">Sardines Grillées.</h4> +<p>—Grill half a dozen +sardines, or as many as desired, for a few +minutes. Melt butter in a frying-pan, +stir in a little flour and moisten with hot +water, then add a few drops of <ins title="vinegar">vinegar,</ins> +a dash of mustard, salt and pepper. +Pour this very hot over the sardines.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Chapon à l'Indienne.</h4> +<p>—Prepare and truss +a capon as for roasting, rub all over with +butter and place in a casserole with a +good sized slice of salt pork. Cook over +a slow fire for three hours. In the meantime +cook a cupful of rice, season it with +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_81">81</a></span>a little curry powder and pimento, and +place around the capon on the platter +on which it is served.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Pommes de Terre en Matelote.</h4> +<p>—Slice +freshly boiled potatoes and cook en +casserole with seasoning of pepper and +salt, two or three sliced onions, a sprig +of chopped parsley, a lump of butter +and a small amount of flour and water. +Cook till all the ingredients are well +blended and when heaped on a platter +and ready for the table, pour over a +glass or two of wine.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Salade Beaucaire.</h4> +<p>—Chop coarsely celery +and endive together, season with oil, +vinegar and mustard an hour before +using. Just before taking to the table, +add chopped boiled ham, a sour apple, +diced, moistened with a little tarragon +and mayonnaise. Surround the salad +with a border of small potatoes, boiled +and sliced, alternated with slices of beet.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Crème Fouettée.</h4> +<p>—Whip cream till it is +very thick or make about a quart of +custard. Mash thoroughly a pound of +cherries or raspberries, or both with +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_82">82</a></span>powdered sugar. Mix with the cream +or custard, beat again and serve immediately. +In summer this may be +iced with good results.</p> + + + +<div class="new-h3"> </div> +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_83">83</a></span></div> +<h3>XVII</h3> + + +<h4>MENU</h4> + + +<ul class="menu"> +<li>Potage Macédoine</li> +<li>Homards et Champignons</li> +<li>Côtelettes de Mouton à la Brunoise</li> +<li>Petits Pois à la Française</li> +<li>Choux à la Crème</li> +</ul> + + +<h4 class="run-in">Potage Macédoine.</h4> +<p>—Place thin pieces +of ham in the bottom of a saucepan and +then put in three each of turnips, potatoes +and onions, all cut up small. Pour +in some stock, season with pepper and +salt and simmer till the ham and vegetables +are cooked. Add a quart of milk +and bring almost to a boil, strain and +serve immediately.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Homards et Champignons.</h4> +<p>—Cut an +equal quantity of lobster meat and +mushrooms into dice. Boil some velouté +sauce together with some essence of +mushrooms till somewhat reduced, then +thicken and mix with the lobster and +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_84">84</a></span>mushrooms. Fill ramekin cases with the +preparation, sprinkle with breadcrumbs, +pour over a little melted butter and bake +in the oven till browned. Serve piping +hot.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Côtelettes de Mouton à la Brunoise.</h4> +<p>—Trim +mutton cutlets neatly, cutting +away all fat, and place side by side in a +large stewpan. Cover with well-flavored +stock and leave to simmer, well covered, +for an hour and a half. Take equal +quantities of turnips, onions and celery +and double the amount of carrots, cut +all into quarter-inch cubes and fry in +butter till they begin to color, putting +in first the carrots, then the celery, then +the onions and last the turnips. When +all are done, drain and allow them to +simmer gently in a little common stock. +A little while before the cutlets are done +drain off all the surplus stock from the +vegetables, or boil it down quickly over +a hot fire. Dress the cutlets on the rim +of a platter, heap the vegetables in the +center and pour the gravy all over them. +Accompany with mashed potatoes.</p> + +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_85">85</a></span></div> +<h4 class="run-in">Petits Pois à la Française.</h4> +<p>—Cook a pint +of shelled peas till tender, drain and place +on the back of the fire with not quite a +gill of the water in which they have been +boiled, a little flour and an ounce of +butter. Simmer for five minutes, adding +pepper and salt to taste and just before +taking from the fire add the yolk of an +egg mixed with a tablespoonful and a +half of cream. Serve very hot in china +or paper cases.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Choux à la Crème.</h4> +<p>—Put a small piece +of butter in a saucepan with half a pint +of water, a teaspoonful of sugar, a piece +of lemon peel and a little salt. Boil well +together, stir in two tablespoonfuls of +flour and stir till thick and cooked. +Allow this paste to cool and then work +into it two eggs and sufficient milk to +make it thin enough to drop from a +spoon. Heat lard in a deep frying pan, +not quite to the point of boiling, and +with a spoon drop the paste into it in +lumps about the size of a hen's egg. +When slightly brown and well swollen, +remove the cakes, drain them well, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_86">86</a></span>scoop out a little of the top of each +to form a hollow and allow them to cool. +Whip cream to a stiff froth and put a +small amount into the hollow of each +chou, arrange on a fancy dish and serve. +The chou may be filled with jelly or preserves +if preferred.</p> + + + +<div class="new-h3"> </div> +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_87">87</a></span></div> +<h3>XVIII</h3> + + +<h4>MENU</h4> + + +<ul class="menu"> +<li>Potage à la Printanière</li> +<li>Paupiettes de Veau</li> +<li>Pommes de Terre, Maître d'Hôtel</li> +<li>Salade de Laitue</li> +<li>Feuillantines</li> +</ul> + + +<h4 class="run-in">Potage à la Printanière.</h4> +<p>—Cut two carrots +and one turnip into shapes with a +vegetable scoop, simmer for twenty +minutes in salted water, drain and place +in a quart of the water in which the potatoes +(in this same menu) were boiled. +Add a handful of chiffonade, cook five +minutes and serve.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Paupiettes de Veau.</h4> +<p>—Cut thin cutlets +from a fillet of veal and beat them flat +and even. Also mince a small quantity +of the veal very fine, mix it with some +of the kidney fat, also minced fine, and +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_88">88</a></span>half a dozen minced anchovies, adding +a little salt, ginger and powdered mace. +Place this mixture over the slices of veal +and roll them up. Beat up an egg, dip +the rolled slices in it and then in sifted +breadcrumbs. Let them stand for fifteen +or twenty minutes, egg them again, +roll in breadcrumbs and fry to a golden +brown in boiling lard or clarified dripping, +or stew them in some rich gravy +with half a pint of white wine and a +small quantity of walnut pickle.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Pommes de Terre, Maître d'Hôtel.</h4> +<p>—Cut +up carefully selected, underboiled and +cold potatoes in rather thick slices. +Dredge half a tablespoonful of flour in a +saucepan with a lump of butter and +when smooth add gradually a cupful of +broth, stirring till it boils. Place in the +potatoes along with a tablespoonful of +chopped parsley and pepper and salt. +Stew for three or four minutes, remove +the pan to the side of the fire and add +quickly the yolk of an egg previously +well beaten with a teaspoonful of cold +water and a little lemon juice. When +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_89">89</a></span>the egg has become thickened, turn the +potatoes with their sauce on a flat dish +and serve.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Salade de Laitue.</h4> +<p>—Select fine lettuces, +remove the coarse outer leaves, wash +and wipe, place in a salad bowl and +sprinkle over a tablespoonful of chopped +chives, half a teaspoonful each of +chopped chervil and tarragon. Season +with a pinch of salt, half a teaspoonful +of pepper, two tablespoonfuls of vinegar +and a tablespoonful and a half of oil. +Mix thoroughly and serve.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Feuillantines.</h4> +<p>—Prepare some puff +paste; roll out to about a third of an inch +thick and cut into strips an inch wide +and two inches long. Spread a baking +dish thick with butter, arrange the pieces +of paste on it, placing them upon their +sides and leaving a small space between +them. Put them in the oven and when +they are firm and their sides have +spread, glaze them with white of egg +and dust with powdered sugar. As the +feuillantines are cooked set them on +paper and drain off any extra grease. +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_90">90</a></span>Now mask them separately with small +quantities of different colored jams. +Arrange on fancy edged dish-paper or a +folded napkin on a dish and serve.</p> + + + +<div class="new-h3"> </div> +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_91">91</a></span></div> +<h3>XIX</h3> + + +<h4>MENU</h4> + + +<ul class="menu"> +<li>Potage Crème d'Orge</li> +<li>Bœuf à la Mode</li> +<li>Pommes de Terre, Sautées</li> +<li>Salade de Romaine</li> +<li>Soufflé au Chocolat</li> +</ul> + + +<h4 class="run-in">Potage Crème d'Orge.</h4> +<p>—Mix in a saucepan +a teacupful of barley, an onion, a +small piece of cinnamon, half a blade +of mace and three pints of water in +which potatoes have been boiled. When +the mixture boils remove from the center +of the fire and allow to simmer slowly for +three hours or more. Pass through a +fine sieve and return to saucepan. Mix +in two tablespoonfuls of butter and half +a pint of boiling milk, season with pepper +and salt. Beat an egg yolk in a +teacupful of milk, mix in the soup but +do not allow to boil after egg is added. +Serve with croutons.</p> + +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_92">92</a></span></div> +<h4 class="run-in">Bœuf à la Mode.</h4> +<p>—Take the under part +of a round of beef, place it in a deep +earthen dish and pour over it spiced +vinegar. Let the meat remain in this +for several hours, then dress it with +strips of salt pork, a third of an inch +square, inserted in incisions made a few +inches apart. Stuff larger incisions +with breadcrumbs highly seasoned with +salt, pepper, onions, thyme and marjoram. +Bind the beef into a shape to +retain the dressing and dredge with +flour. Then cut up two onions, half a +carrot and half a turnip and fry in fat +drippings till brown and place in a +stewpan. Brown the meat all over with +the same fat, place on a trivet in the pan, +half cover with boiling water, add a +small quantity of mixed herbs tied in a +bag, cover and simmer for about four +hours, or till done. Take out carefully, +remove strings and cloth, and place on a +large dish. Skim off the fat from the +gravy, add more seasoning, thicken +with wetted flour worked smooth, boil +for eight or ten minutes and strain over +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_93">93</a></span>the meat. Decorate with small onions +and potato balls.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Pommes de Terre, Sautées.</h4> +<p>—Boil potatoes +until almost done, cut into quarters +or slices of medium thickness. +Melt butter or clarified drippings in a +frying pan, put in the potatoes sprinkled +with salt and pepper and finely chopped +parsley and toss over the fire till they +are a fine golden brown color. Serve +with chopped parsley.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Salade de Romaine.</h4> +<p>—Put crisp leaves +of romaine in a salad bowl rubbed +lightly with a shallot or new onion. +Make the following dressing. Take +one hard-boiled egg and mash it as +finely as possible with a fork, add a +little paprika, a pinch of salt, half a +teaspoonful of French mustard, a teaspoonful +of hashed chives, the same of +hashed tarragon, two tablespoonfuls of +oil and three of vinegar. Add this to the +romaine, toss well and serve.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Soufflé au Chocolat.</h4> +<p>—Mix a small tablespoonful +of starch with a gill of milk and +when quite smooth add two ounces of +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_94">94</a></span>powdered sugar and two ounces of +butter. Put the mixture into a saucepan +and stir over the fire till it boils. +When cold stir in an ounce of grated +chocolate and the yolks of two eggs. +Beat well together till perfectly smooth, +then mix in the whites of the eggs. +Pour into a buttered souffle dish and +bake for forty minutes.</p> + + + +<div class="new-h3"> </div> +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_95">95</a></span></div> +<h3>XX</h3> + + +<h4>MENU</h4> + + +<ul class="menu"> +<li>Potage Gourmet</li> +<li>Eglefin à la Maître d'Hôtel</li> +<li>Pommes de Terre, Casserole</li> +<li>Salade de Tomates et de Laitue</li> +<li>Canards Sauvages, Sauce Orange</li> +<li>Soufflé au Citron</li> +</ul> + + +<h4 class="run-in">Potage Gourmet.</h4> +<p>—Pour into a saucepan +about a quart of the water in which +potatoes have been boiled, add a small +amount of cold chicken cut in small dice, +two tablespoonfuls of boiled rice, two +tablespoonfuls of cooked green peas and +one truffle cut into dice, also pepper and +salt, along with one or two whole cloves. +Bring to a boil, allow to simmer for fifteen +minutes, and serve.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Eglefin à la Maître d'Hôtel.</h4> +<p>—Cut a +cleaned haddock open at the back on +each side of the bone, <ins title="duct">dust</ins> with pepper +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_96">96</a></span>and salt, dip in flour, place on a gridiron +over a clear fire and cook for about +twenty minutes, turning carefully from +time to time. Remove from the fire, +place two ounces of butter on the back +of the fish, place it in the oven to melt +the butter, then, put the fish on a hot +platter and sprinkle with mince parsley +and lemon juice, the latter heated.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Pommes de Terre, Casserole.</h4> +<p>—Boil a +pound or two of potatoes, drain and +mash and make into a stiff paste by adding +butter and milk together with a little +salt. Form into a casserole, put on a +dish, make an opening in the top, brown +in the oven and serve.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Salade de Tomates et Laitue.</h4> +<p>—Split +the white leaves of lettuce into quarters +and place in a bowl. Cut tomatoes into +thin slices and place over the lettuce. +Season with a sauce made of one part of +vinegar, two of oil, a little salt and +pepper. Pour the sauce over just before +serving.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Canards Sauvages, Sauce Orange.</h4> +<p>—Roast +two wild ducks over a brisk fire, having +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_97">97</a></span>them underdone, more or less, according +to taste. Baste all the time they are +cooking with butter and the juice of +lemon and serve with the following +sauce. Shred finely the rind of two +oranges and parboil in a little water. +Melt an ounce of butter and stir into it +a dessertspoonful of flour moistened +with a little water. Stir well over the +fire and then add the juice of the two +oranges, some very clear gravy, flavor +with pepper and salt and cayenne, then +add the parboiled orange rind. Let the +sauce boil and keep hot till wanted.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Soufflé au Citron.</h4> +<p>—Put three egg yolks +and three ounces of powdered sugar into +a basin with the grated rind of a lemon +and a half and stir till quite thick. Add +slowly a tablespoonful of lemon juice +and then, quickly, the well beaten whites +of the three eggs. Pour into a pie dish +and bake in a medium oven for twenty +minutes. When the surface is a golden +brown it is done. Serve immediately.</p> + + + +<div class="new-h3"> </div> +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_98">98</a></span></div> +<h3>XXI</h3> + + +<h4>MENU</h4> + + +<ul class="menu"> +<li>Filets de Carrelets, Italienne</li> +<li>Pommes de Terre, Loulou</li> +<li>Cailles Rôtis</li> +<li>Salade des Tomates et d'Artichauts</li> +<li>Vol-au-Vent, Chantilly</li> +</ul> + + +<h4 class="run-in">Filets de Carrelets, Italienne.</h4> +<p>—Take the +fillets of two firm flounders, trim and +flour each piece lightly. Dip in egg +beaten with pepper and salt, cover on +both sides with stale breadcrumbs and +fry in boiling olive oil. When the fillets +are a golden brown place on a sieve in +front of the fire with a soft paper beneath +them that they may drain. Serve +with fried parsley and quarters of +lemon.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Pommes de Terre, Loulou.</h4> +<p>—Chop raw +potatoes fine and place them in a saucepan +with butter and a seasoning of pepper, +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_99">99</a></span>salt, paprika and a trace of nutmeg. +Cover and cook very slowly, agitating +them constantly. When they become +soft, beat well and arrange a layer on a +vegetable dish, sprinkle with Parmesan +cheese, put on another layer of potatoes, +then more cheese, and so on, having +the top layer of cheese. Pour over +all melted butter and bake about twenty +minutes in a slow oven.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Cailles Rôtis.</h4> +<p>—Tie a thin slice of bacon +over the breast of each quail, roast them +at a clear fire for fifteen minutes, basting +frequently. Lay them on crisp buttered +toast, sprinkle with minced <ins title="parsely">parsley</ins>, salt +and paprika, and serve with a rich wine +jelly on a separate dish.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Salade des Tomates et d'Artichauts.</h4> +<p>—Cut +the under part of boiled artichokes +into slices and take the same number of +slices of tomato. Dip both into a +dressing made of olive oil, vinegar, +tarragon, chervil, salt and pepper, with +a little mustard and arrange in a salad +bowl. Pour over the remainder of the +dressing and serve.</p> + +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_100">100</a></span></div> +<h4 class="run-in">Vol-au-Vent, Chantilly.</h4> +<p>—Roll a pound +of puff paste to about an eighth of an +inch in thickness and cut out about +thirty rounds with a fluted cutter, about +two and a half inches in diameter. Then +cut out the center of these with a cutter +about an inch across. Roll out the +paste taken from the centers and cut +out more rings in the same way. Brush +the rings over with egg, place one on top +of another, two by two, press together +so that they will stick, place on a baking +sheet, brush over with egg and bake in a +brisk oven. When almost done sprinkle +with sugar and allow to remain in the +oven till they are glazed and fully done. +Remove and place on a warmed platter +and fill with any sort of cream desired, +or jam or tart marmalade.</p> + + + +<div class="new-h3"> </div> +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_101">101</a></span></div> +<h3>XXII</h3> + + +<h4>MENU</h4> + + +<ul class="menu"> +<li>Potage Julienne</li> +<li>Homard Bordelaise</li> +<li>Canard à la Reine</li> +<li>Salade à la Russe</li> +<li>Café Bavaroise</li> +</ul> + + +<h4 class="run-in">Potage Julienne.</h4> +<p>—Cut carrots, onions, +leeks and turnips into thin slices or +strips of equal size with a head of celery. +Put all into two ounces of butter melted +in a saucepan and toss over a slow fire +for a few minutes. If desired other +vegetables in season such as cauliflower, +peas or asparagus may be added. Pour +clear chicken broth over the vegetables, +put in some pieces of cold chicken, +allow to come to a boil, then simmer till +the vegetables are tender and pour the +whole into the tureen with sippets of +toast.</p> + +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_102">102</a></span></div> +<h4 class="run-in">Homard Bordelaise.</h4> +<p>—Cut a small carrot +and an onion into fine pieces and +boil for five minutes in a wineglassful +of red wine. Now add the meat from +two lobsters, cut in small pieces, say, +about a pound and a half. Season with +a very little pepper, salt, and a trace +of nutmeg, adding, just before the +lobster is cooked, about half a pint of +velouté sauce. Stew well together and +serve at once.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Canard à la Reine.</h4> +<p>—Cut off one wing +of a duck and half the breast from the +same side, remove the skin, take out +the bone and fill the place with quenelle +forcemeat. Lard the breast and put it +into a braising pan over slices of leeks, +carrots and onions and a little thyme, +chervil, bayleaves and lemon peel. Add +sufficient stock to prevent burning, set +the pan on the fire and braise the duck, +then glaze it. Serve with a purée of +beans for garnish.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Salade à la Russe.</h4> +<p>—Cut cold chicken +and salmon into thin slices, arrange in +a salad dish and mix with finely cut +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_103">103</a></span>cooked asparagus heads, carrots and +cauliflower, a few capers and a little +caviare. The dressing is made with +three parts of oil and one of vinegar, a +little mustard and cayenne pepper and +a tablespoonful of minced onion. Pour +over the salad and stand on the ice till +served.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Café Bavaroise.</h4> +<p>—Grind half a pound of +green coffee, roast in a sugar boiler without +burning it or even browning and +soak a quart of milk with it for about an +hour. Now stir into a cupful of flour a +teaspoonful of castor sugar into which +has been dropped a little vanilla extract, +and a little salt. Stir this all in with +the strained coffee-flavored milk, bring +to a boil, remove from the fire and stir +in the yolks, then the whites of three +eggs, all beaten firm. Fill paper cases +with the mixture, bake, sprinkle castor +sugar over the tops and serve at once.</p> + + + +<div class="new-h3"> </div> +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_104">104</a></span></div> +<h3>XXIII</h3> + + +<h4>MENU</h4> + + +<ul class="menu"> +<li>Huitres à l'Américaine</li> +<li>Bœuf à l'Aurore</li> +<li>Pommes de Terre, Lyonnaise</li> +<li>Salade Française</li> +<li>Crème à la Russe</li> +</ul> + + +<h4 class="run-in">Huitres à l'Américaine.</h4> +<p>—Place in a +sauce bowl a heaped teaspoonful of +salt, three-quarters of a teaspoonful of +white pepper, a medium sized onion, +chopped, and a teaspoonful of minced +parsley. Mix lightly together along +with a teaspoonful of olive oil, six drops +of tobasco sauce, a little Worcestershire +sauce and a gill of vinegar. Put a teaspoonful +of this mixture on each raw +oyster just before taking to the table.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Bœuf à l'Aurore.</h4> +<p>—Season two steaks +of about three-quarters of a pound each +(any ordinary cut will do) with salt and +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_105">105</a></span>pepper, baste on either side with a little +oil and broil over a brisk fire for six +minutes. Place on a hot dish and serve +with the following sauce poured over: +Mix in a saucepan a small glass of mushroom +liquor with half a pint of bechamel +sauce, half an ounce of butter and two +or three tablespoonfuls of tomato sauce. +Place on the fire, stir for ten minutes +and just before removing add whole +mushrooms cut in squares.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Salade Française.</h4> +<p>—Chop fine a bunch +of parsley, two small onions and six +anchovies. Lay them in a bowl and +mix with salt and mustard to taste, +two tablespoonfuls of salad oil and a +gill of vinegar. Stir all well together +and then add, one at a time, some very +thin strips of cold roasted or boiled +meat, not more than three or four inches +long. Shake the slices well in the dressing. +Cover the bowl closely and allow +to stand for at least three hours. Serve +garnished with parsley.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Pommes de Terre, Lyonnaise.</h4> +<p>—Cut into +round slices eight boiled potatoes, lay +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_106">106</a></span>them in a frying pan with an ounce and +a half of butter and the slices of a partly +cooked onion. Season with salt and +pepper and cook till the potatoes become +well browned, tossing all the while. +Serve with chopped parsley sprinkled +over.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Crème à la Russe.</h4> +<p>—Put into a saucepan +a pint of milk, half a pound of lump +sugar, the grated rind of two lemons and +an ounce of gelatine, previously soaked +in water. Cook till the sugar dissolves +over a slow fire, then allow the mixture +to cool somewhat before stirring in the +yolks of two eggs, unbeaten. Place on +the fire to curdle. Strain, and when cool +add the juice of the two lemons and the +whites of the eggs beaten stiffly. Stir +all well together and pour into a wet +mould. Turn out when well set.</p> + + + +<div class="new-h3"> </div> +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_107">107</a></span></div> +<h3>XXIV</h3> + + +<h4>MENU</h4> + + +<ul class="menu"> +<li>Potage Napolitaine</li> +<li>Truites à la Monbarry</li> +<li>Croquettes de Pommes de Terre</li> +<li>Celeri-rave en Salade</li> +<li>Pouding aux Figues</li> +</ul> + + +<h4 class="run-in">Potage Napolitaine.</h4> +<p>—Boil in strong +bouillon small forcemeat balls made of +any left-over game or meat. Then soak +croutons in the same bouillon. Add the +forcemeat balls and serve.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Truites à la Monbarry.</h4> +<p>—Prepare several +trout and lay them in a pan with a +quarter pound of butter and some strong +spices. Allow to heat slowly in an open +oven and when the butter is entirely +melted, drop on the trout two well +beaten yolks of eggs. Grate cheese +over this and cover all with a quantity +of fine breadcrumbs. Brown lightly in +a hot oven and serve.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Croquettes de Pommes de Terre.</h4> +<p>—Boil +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_108">108</a></span>and drain about two and a half pounds +of potatoes. Add a generous quantity +of butter, yolks of two eggs, salt and +pepper and the white of the eggs beaten +to a snow. Beat the whole up briskly, +shape the mixture into balls and fry in a +pan.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Celeri-rave en Salade.</h4> +<p>—Trim carefully +a bunch of celery, leaving on as much of +the root as possible. Cut in half and +boil in salted water till tender. Then +trim into even sticks and season it very +piquantly with French mustard, a few +young onions, pepper, salt and finely +chopped parsley. Garnish with lettuce-leaves +and slices of beet.</p> + +<h4 class="run-in">Pouding aux Figues.</h4> +<p>—Mix in a large +bowl a cupful of breadcrumbs, half a +cup of farina, a pinch of salt, a cup of +suet, cut fine, a cup of powdered sugar, +a minced carrot and a cup and a half +of chopped figs. Grease a baking mould, +line it with whole figs, and empty the +mixture into it. Cook for four hours, +the pan standing in water. Serve hot +with a rum sauce.</p> + + + +<div class="new-h2"> </div> +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_109">109</a></span></div> +<h2 style="margin-bottom: 0;">LET US EAT FISH</h2> + +<p class="center" style="margin-bottom: 2em;">A FAMOUS FRENCH LUNCHEON +À L'AMÉRICAINE</p> + + +<p>Only in the Latin countries has fish +as an edible ever been fully appreciated +and, as is the case with most other things +gastronomic, it is in France that the +food possibilities of the denizens of the +water have been brought nearest perfection.</p> + +<p>Over here we have always seemed to +regard fish as useful chiefly for stocking +aquariums or for furnishing sport for +the vacationist, along with golf, tennis +and bowling. True, we have become +rather well acquainted with certain +sea foods, the oysters, Blue Points and +Cape Cods; we have a nodding acquaintance +with some of the clam clan, especially +the Rhode Island branch, and the +Little Necks, the blue bloods of the +family. And, of course, we are familiar +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_110">110</a></span>with the crustaceans, the lobsters and +the crabs.</p> + +<p>And we know, too, certain succulent +sea delicacies that come to us from Palm +Beach shores and California and Oregon +regions, tuna and halibut, bluefish and +salmon as it comes to us variously prepared +for the table. In short, we Americans +are fairly friendly with a number +of the aristocrats of the water, but on +analyzing the situation we come to +realize that as for knowing the “finny +tribe” as a whole well enough to get +complete gastronomic joy out of the +situation, it remains that it is only the +French people who are so blessed.</p> + +<p>Time and the hour and the high price +of meat, however, render it advisable, +even absolutely necessary, that we work +<em>all</em> our resources instead of only a part +of them, to economize whenever and +wherever we can, and the waters in our +midst and around us are surely one of +the most important resources not already +worked to the limit.</p> + +<p>Therefore, let us eat fish—but first +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_111">111</a></span>let us learn of the French about fish, +even as we have learned of them concerning +other foods, or as we have +learned fashions, for, verily, the turning +out of a proper fish dish for the table +has ever been regarded by the French +as no less an art than the creation of a +beautiful frock in one of their ateliers. +Moreover, their ways with fish are so +broadly inclusive that one may make +up an entire menu from one end to the +other, with only a cup of coffee needed +as a final fillip to make a perfect meal—and +all of fish.</p> + +<p>By way of furnishing inspiration to +our own appetites, herewith is a suggestion +for a fish luncheon, a favorite +menu of France, which its wealth and +fashion delighted to have set before it +in those good old days before the war. +Substitutes are given for any fish not +indigenous to American waters; otherwise +it is just as it would be served at one +of the Riviera restaurants, with the +exception, of course, that on the +Riviera or at any of the noted marine +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_112">112</a></span>restaurants, the visitor himself was permitted +to select the fish for each course +from among the different specimens +swimming in the reserves, altogether +unconscious of impending fate.</p> + +<p>No French restauranteur worthy the +name ever kept dead fish in stock, for +nothing deteriorates so quickly. There +is rarely over here the natural reserve +that the Riviera takes as a matter of +course, although there is, in some restaurants, +the tank of running water in +which the fish are kept in condition till +required.</p> + + + +<div class="new-h2"> </div> +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_113">113</a></span></div> +<h2>AN ALL FISH LUNCHEON</h2> + + +<h3>MENU</h3> + +<div id="fish-luncheon"> +<h4>Hors d'Œuvres. Little Necks or Blue Points.</h4> + +<p>(At Monte Carlo one would be served Clovisses.)</p> + +<h4>Lobster with Sauce Piquante.</h4> + +<p>(A substitute for the French langouste, which is +similar to a giant lobster minus the two long +nippers. Or there might be served abroad for +this course a little gelatinous fellow called supion, +or sea-hedgehog, or perhaps nonnots, smaller and +more delicate than our own whitefish.)</p> + +<h4>French Sardines Grilled, or Shad Planked.</h4> + +<p>(Shad is a most satisfactory substitute for the +French restauranteur's delight—loup de mer.)</p> + +<h4>Flounder, Sauce Meunière, or Shrimps.</h4> + +<p>(In Dieppe sole and certain crevettes are both +specialties and are served at this juncture, but +little sole is being received here and our own +flounder answers requirements admirably. Shrimps, +too, will please an American palate fully as well as +the <ins title="crevettes.">crevettes.)</ins></p> + +<h4>Bouillabaisse.</h4> + +<p>(This, for which we have no nearer synonym than +fish stew, which is a libel, is the pièce de résistance +of the luncheon. It is probably the most famous +fish dish of France.)</p> + +<h4>Salade de Poisson with Aioli.</h4> + +<p>(Aioli is a Mediterranean mayonnaise and “the +dressing,” the French say, “is the soul of the +<ins title="salad.”">salad.”)</ins></p> +</div> + +<p><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_114">114</a></span> +It will be noted that there is no +dessert given with the above menu, +but the repast may be gracefully topped +off with crackers and cheese and café +noir. Tea is never served with fish, as +the tannin is said to render fish particularly +indigestible.</p> + + + +<div class="new-h3"> </div> +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_115">115</a></span></div> +<h3>TO PREPARE THE LUNCHEON</h3> + +<p>The French disdain the pepper, horseradish +and tomato mixtures with which +we are wont to dress raw oysters, preferring +to get the full coppery taste +peculiar to their home product, but the +American oyster, even these artists of +the culinary department agree, requires +a dressing to bring out the flavor. +As for the clovisse, which is, by the way, +first cousin to our clam, it is eaten from +the shell, each clovisse being opened +immediately before being disposed of.</p> + +<p>Lobster as here served to take the +place of the French langouste, tastes +much like deviled lobster. The sauce +piquante is made as follows: Into a +saucepan put a tablespoonful of finely +chopped onion with a little salt, grated +nutmeg, black pepper and an ounce of +butter. When this melts and blends +add a little chopped red pepper along +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_116">116</a></span>with three tablespoonfuls of vinegar +and a teaspoonful of mustard. Stir +together well, then mix in half an ounce +of flour and half a pint of fish stock. +Simmer for half an hour, skimming +occasionally and, finally add a chopped +pickled gherkin.</p> + +<p><b>Sauce Meunière</b>, served with the sole, +or, in this case with the flounder, is +made by adding a few shrimps and mussels, +minced, to a pint of white wine in a +saucepan, along with a cupful of minced +mushrooms, a teaspoonful of butter, +salt and pepper and three or four cloves. +Simmer for twenty minutes and pour +over the fish just before serving.</p> + +<p><b>Salade de Poisson, Aioli</b>, is made by taking +any cold fish, say salmon, with this +menu. It is flaked and marinaded in +oil and vinegar seasoned well with pepper +and salt. Allow to remain for an +hour or so, then remove and arrange +compactly in a salad bowl. The aioli, +the Mediterranean delicacy with which +it is served, is made by whipping two +eggs, four teaspoonfuls of olive oil, a +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_117">117</a></span>half teaspoonful of French mustard +and a half cupful of cream together +till stiff, in a bowl rubbed with garlic. +Heap this on the center of the fish.</p> + +<p>As for the <b>Bouillabaisse</b>, it is like our +own Welsh Rabbit in so far as hardly +any two persons make it alike. Here +are two recipes which gastronomic authorities +have accorded the meed of +highest praise:</p> + +<p>No. 1.—Cut into pieces and remove +the bones from three pounds of fish; +say one pound each of cod, halibut and +bluefish, though any fish of like nature +will do. To these add the cooked meat +of one lobster or two crabs, and six +shrimps and put all into a casserole in +half a pint or more of olive oil to cook, +adding one lemon, sliced, two tomatoes, +one onion, one sliced carrot, a bunch of +saffron, a bunch of parsley, a bayleaf +and a clove of garlic—or have the +casserole rubbed with the garlic. Cook +for ten minutes, stirring frequently, +then add one cup of soup stock and a +glass of wine or cider. Cook for fifteen +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_118">118</a></span>minutes longer, remove to a hot bowl, +line the casserole with slices of toast, +and pour back the bouillabaisse. Serve +at once.</p> + +<p>No. 2.—Place the pieces of fish to +any desired amount in a large saucepan, +add two or three sliced onions, one or +two sliced carrots, three shallots, two +cloves of garlic, a bunch of thyme and +parsley, three or four cloves, two bayleaves, +half a teaspoonful of capsicum, +a wine-glass of olive oil and salt and +pepper to taste. Pour over the above +mixture two quarts of water and boil +gently for half an hour, the pan covered. +Drain and lay on a hot dish. Then mix +a teaspoonful of saffron in the liquid, +pass through a strainer into a soup +tureen. Serve the soup with the fish +and a plate of croutons of fried bread or +sippets of toast.</p> + + + +<div class="new-h2"> </div> +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_119">119</a></span></div> +<h2>FISH À LA MARSEILLES</h2> + + +<p>The French have another fish dish +which, like bouillabaisse, is practically +a meal in itself and which in these +days should be better known to the +American table. It is a specialty in the +vicinity of Marseilles and made there, +of course, with fish peculiar to the home +waters, but M. Auguste Gay, Chef of +the Yale Club, New York, who, incidentally, +has probably given more attention +to the adaptation of French cookery +to American requirements than any +other chef, is authority for the statement +that the following recipe produces +an almost perfect substitute for the +French dish:</p> + +<p>Chop into fine bits a small sweet +Chile pepper and toss it about in a +saucepan over the fire with a third of a +cupful of olive oil or butter. When hot +add a cupful of okra and the same +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_120">120</a></span>amount of stewed fresh or canned tomatoes. +Cook fifteen minutes and add a +full cupful of cooked fresh fish—cod, +haddock, etc., and a half cupful of +flaked salt fish, mackerel, for instance. +Cover and cook for twenty minutes +longer and serve with water crackers.</p> + + + +<div class="new-h2"> </div> +<div><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_121">121</a></span></div> +<h2>GENERAL CONSIDERATIONS</h2> + + +<p>One secret of the French cook's +superiority to the American in preparing +fish is that the former has almost a congenital +knowledge of his subject. To +him all fish is not just fish. He differentiates +sharply as to species, tempering +his treatment to varied requirements.</p> + +<p>Roughly, there are two classes of fish: +those which have dark flesh or flesh +with a pinkish tone which is streaked +with fat, and those which have white, +firm flesh and are the more digestible. +Best known in the first class are shad, +butterfish, bluefish, salmon, mackerel +and sturgeon, and in the second, cod, +halibut, flounder, trout, rock and sea +bass, pompano, weakfish and perch.</p> + +<p>One matter-of-course rule is that no +fish of whatever kind shall be allowed +to enter the kitchen unless it is perfectly +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_122">122</a></span>fresh. To be sure of this see that +the gills are bright and shining and the +flesh firm, not readily separating from +the bones. That settled, you have an +almost endless choice of ways of cooking.</p> + +<p>Fish may be boiled, broiled, fried, +baked, planked, creamed, steamed, +cooked en casserole, jellied or pickled, +but of all these ways none produces +quite the universally satisfactory results +with a sizable fish that planking +does, and planking is not more difficult +or expensive than other methods.</p> + +<p>All that is required in the way of +accoutrements is a half-inch-thick hardwood +board which is heated in advance +in the oven when planked fish is to +figure on the menu. Then having thoroughly +cleaned the fish, removed its +head and tail, split it up the back half +through the bone so that it will open out +flat, brush it with butter and season +with pepper and salt, place it skin-side +down on the board.</p> + +<p>Put it in the oven and when it is +<span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_123">123</a></span>done, which can be easily ascertained +by lifting a bit of the flesh, you, being +American, may garnish the board with +mashed and seasoned potatoes, set the +board back in the oven till the potatoes +are browned and serve. The French, on +taking the cooked fish from the oven, +merely brush it with a little oil or melted +butter, squeeze some lemon juice over, +sprinkle a few bits of parsley about, +and send the fish thus to the table.</p> + +<p>Small fish, such as perch, smelts, etc., +are best fried in deep fat or its substitute, +first being dipped in egg and rolled +in fine cracker or breadcrumbs, then +served with a Sauce Mousseline, mashed +potatoes or boiled new ones, and a crisp +salad.</p> + +<p>This Sauce Mousseline is made by +beating two eggs in a saucepan, adding +a cupful of top milk, butter the size of +a walnut and pepper and salt, then stirring +over the fire till it begins to thicken. +When of the proper consistency, add a +tablespoonful of lemon juice and it is +ready for the table.</p> + +<p style="margin-bottom: 120px;"><span class="pagenum"><a name="Page_124">124</a></span> +A tart sauce for boiled fish that is +much favored in the south of France +but which, if it has ever crossed the +water, has kept its arrival very quiet, +is quite simply made and will be much +liked as a decided change. To make it +dissolve a tablespoonful of powdered +mustard in a half cupful of fish stock +and add two tablespoonfuls of white +wine vinegar by preference, though +other vinegar will do. Let this come to +a boil, add two or three slices of lemon +and boil a few minutes longer. Take +from the fire and add two eggs that have +been beaten with a teaspoonful of water. +Season with salt and pepper and heat +again but do not allow to boil.</p> + + + + + + + + +<pre> + + + + + +End of the Project Gutenberg EBook of Twenty-four Little French Dinners and +How to Cook and Serve Them, by Cora Moore + +*** END OF THIS PROJECT GUTENBERG EBOOK 24 LITTLE FRENCH DINNERS *** + +***** This file should be named 29970-h.htm or 29970-h.zip ***** +This and all associated files of various formats will be found in: + https://www.gutenberg.org/2/9/9/7/29970/ + +Produced by Jana Srna and the Online Distributed +Proofreading Team at https://www.pgdp.net (This file was +produced from images generously made available by The +Internet Archive/American Libraries.) + + +Updated editions will replace the previous one--the old editions +will be renamed. + +Creating the works from public domain print editions means that no +one owns a United States copyright in these works, so the Foundation +(and you!) can copy and distribute it in the United States without +permission and without paying copyright royalties. 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